SHRIMP AND GRITS INSPIRED BY SEAN BROCK Yields 750 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Bacon, thinly sliced lOOg 50%
Water lOOg 50% CD Vacuum seal together.
0 Cook so us vide in BB oc I 190 °Fbath for 2 h.
Bacon broth, from above lOOg 50%
1.2% ® Strain bacon broth, and coo l.
@ Discard resulting layer offat, and measure 100 g of broth.
® Blend sucrose esters and whey protein iso late into broth, and reserve.
Sucrose esters 2.4 g
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Whey protein isolate 1.5g 0.75%
100%
Eggs four large 500% ® Cook in shells in 65 oc / 149 °Fbath for 35 min.
75% 0 Dip dried corn in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
Dried corn kernels or 200g
hominy 40% ® Blend frozen corn on high power until coarse texture is ach ieved .
40% ® Pass through coarse sieve to remove any unground pieces.
Liquid nitrogen as needed @ Combine with cornmea l from above, and cook over medium heat for about 40 min;
Water, shellfish stock, or 1 kg stir constantly until mixture softens and forms grits.
vegetable stock 150g
see page 6 and page 9 as needed @ Dip prawns in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
@ Blend frozen prawns on high power until fine powder is achieved.
Spot prawn or shrimp @ Fold into warm grits.
tails, peeled @ Warm bacon broth, and whip with foaming wand.
@ Fold into grits, and reheat to make sure grits are warm .
Liquid nitrogen @ Season grits, and portion into four bowls.
Mascarpone BOg ® Place peeled, cooked egg in center of each bowl.
Salt to taste
@ Pour gravy over eggs and grits.
Red-eye gravy BOg
see page 225
from page 3·377
19 0 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
PASTA
0 Mix dry ingre di e nts, texturing agent, and salt. To make sodium carbonate for the alkaline ra men recipe in the table below, place som e
0 Whisk in liquids.
sodium bica rbonate in a shallow pan, and bake it in a 150 •c I 300 •r oven for1 h.
® Knead, or blend until dough is elastic, 5- 10 min.
0 Rol l out, and cut to desired shape.
® Dry (optional). Se e page 2-430 for d e hydrating strategies.
Best Bets for Pasta Doughs
Pasta Dry ingredient (scal ing) Texturing agent Salt Liquid (scaling) Dry
wheat OOwheatflour 100% xanthan gum (scaling) (scaling) water
1% 2.5% egg yolk 9% no
neutral or o live oil
4% 1.75% milk 56.7%
egg yolks
2% 1.3% olive oil 10.7%
water
buckwheat buckwheat flour, sifted 100% Activa RM 75% optiona l
all-purpose unbleached 50%
wheat flour 37.5 %
20%
semolina al l-purpose bleached 25 % albumin powder 35 % yes
wheat flour
semo lina flour 100% white wine 7%
100% egg yolks 117%
cocoa tajarin 00 wheat flour 65% vital gluten 4% 1.5% water 27% no
semolina flour 44% 2.5% olive oil 22.5 % yes
100% 1.5% water 160%
cocoa powder 50%
50% water
rice flour rice flour 100% konjac gum 10%
tapioca starch
glutinous rice flour
alkaline ramen bread flour sodium carbonate 0.9% 37.5% no
potassium carbo nate 0.1%
from page 3·381
HERB-EMBEDDED PASTA VEIL Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All-purpose unbleached 210 g 100%
wheat flour 0 Combine to form smooth dough .
Water 50g 24% 0 Kn ead for12 min.
Egg yolks 28g 13.5%
Canolaoil 7.2g 3.5% ® Vacuum se a l, and refrigerate fo r12 h.
Toasted sesame oi l 7.2g 3.5%
Gluten flour 2.5 g 1.2 %
(7%)*
Salt 1g 0 .5%
as desired
Cilantro, dill or other 0 Roll dough to 1 mm I ){6 in thi ck.
small-leaved herbs
® Divid e into two sh e ets of equal le ngth and width.
® Lay he rbs individually on first sheet, and cove r with second sheet.
0 Roll laye re d dough to 1 mm / ){6 in thick.
® Tra nsfe r to flour-dust e d, parchm e nt paper- lin e d tray, a nd cove r with da mp clot h.
from page 3·383 ® Re frige rate until nee d e d.
*(% of total weight ofall other ingredients)
PLANT FOODS 191
SPAGHETTI CARBONARA INSPIRED BY JEAN-FRAN<;:OIS PIEGE Yields 1.5 kg (about 30 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whipping cream 200g 200%
Bacon, th inl y sliced 90g 90% CD Combine, and vacuum seal.
Parmesan, grated 20 g 10% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 ' C I 190 ' Fbath for 2 h.
Garlic, thinly sliced and 15g 7.5%
blanched ® Strain cream, and reserve warm .
Water 1 kg
Dry spaghetti 100 g 1,000% @ Bo il spaghetti in salted water until al dente, about 8 min.
Salt 20g
100% ® Transfer spaghetti to bacon cream, stirring to coat evenly.
20% ® Arrange pasta strands straight and pressed against each other on sheet of plastic wrap.
0 Refrigerate coated strands unt il set, about 2 h.
Sodium citrate 2.3g 2.3% ® Dry blend.
low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.6 g 0 .6%
F, CP Kelco brand) (0.26%)*
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0 .3 g 0.3%
LTlOO, CP Kelco brand) (0.73%) *
Whole milk 100 g 100% ® Disperse powder blend in milk and bring to simmer.
Parmesan cheese, finely 130 g 130% @ Shear cheese into simmering milk .
grated
@ Cast into nonstick mold in layer 1 em I% in thick .
@ Cool, and refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
@ Cut set gel in strips measuring 5 em by 10 em I 2 in by 4 in.
@ Place strips over cold spaghetti ribbons.
@ Rol l spaghetti w ith cheese strips into tight parcels.
Egg yolks, blended 50g 50% @ Vacuum seal.
@ Cook so us vide in 68 ' C I 154 ' F bath for 35 min to form fluid gel.
@ Pass fluid yolk mixture through sieve.
@ Transfer to squeeze bottle with 5 mm I Y., in diameter tip.
Chives, finely minced lOg 20% @ Steam spaghetti parcels until warmed through, about 4 min.
@ Pipe stripe of egg yolk fluid gel across each spaghetti parcel.
@ Garn ish parcels with chives.
® Serve carbonara with braised pork bel ly, or finish with fresh black truffles.
from page 3-384 *(% oftotal weight ofwhole milk and Parmesan cheese)
MAC AND CHEESE INSPIRED BY HAROLD MCGEE Yields 400 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water lOOg 50%
Wheat beer 75 g 37.5% CD Whisk together.
Sodium citrate lOg 0 Bring to simmer.
Sa lt 4.5g
Iota carrageenan 1.25 g 5%
2.25%
0.63%
(0.26%)*
Aged Gouda cheese, 200g 100% ® Hand-blend slowly into hot liquid until cheese is completely emulsified.
grated 85g
42.5% @ Transfer to shal low bowl, and cool to room temperature .
Sharp cheddar cheese, ® Refrigerate until set, about 30 min.
grated
® Grate coarsely.
Water 300g 150 %
50% 0 Boil together over high heat until pasta has absorbed most of water and is al dente, about
Macaroni (store-bought) 100 g 1.2 %
7 min. Do not drain .
Salt 2.4g
® Whisk 160 g of cheese and remain ing liquid into pasta until cheese is melted.
from page 3·387 *(% oftotal weight offirst two ingredients and cheeses)
192 VOLUME 6 ·KITCH EN MANUAL
PAD THAI ADAPTED FROM PIM TECHAMUANVIVIT Yields 500 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Palm sugar 56g 18.5%
Fish sauce 40g 13.5% <D Combine, and bring to simmer until fully d issolved.
Tamarind paste 18g 6%
0 Remove sauce from heat, and reserve.
seepage145 11 g
Rice vinegar 50g 3.5% ® Fry baby shrimp over medium heat until golden brown, about 10 min.
Dried baby shrimp as needed 16.5% @) Transfer to paper towel-lined tray.
Neutral oi l
Rice stick noodles 300g 100% ® Cool.
12 shrimp ® Mince finely, and reserve for garnish.
Shrimp, peeled and
deveined 0 Cover with warm water, and soak at room temperature for 2 h.
® Fry over medium heat until half cooked, about 1 min.
Neutral oil as needed 13% ® Add, and stir-fry until slightly wilted and shrimp are fully cooked, 1-2 min.
Bean sprouts, cut into 40g @ Remove shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives, leaving oil in pan.
8%
3 em / 1'/4 in strips 24g 7% @ Add to pan, and increase heat to high. Cook until golden, about 45 s.
20g 3% @ Add soaked noodles, and stir-fry over high heat until translucent, 2-3 min.
Garlic chives, diced lOg 3% @ Remove from heat.
Shallot, minced lOg 20% @ Add to pan, stirring constantly until incorporated and cooked through, a bout 1 min.
60g @ Add 40 g of reserved sauce.
Garlic, minced
Ginger, minced
Egg, beaten
@ Cook over high heat for 1 min.
@ Stir in cooked shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives; remove from heat.
Lime juice to taste @ Season.
Salt to taste @ Add more sauce if necessary.
Pressure-cooked peanuts, 30 g 10% @ Garnish with dried shrimp, peanuts, and chili powder.
finely ground
see page 151
Roasted chil i powder to taste
from page 3·385
PASTA MARINARA INSPIRED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA Yields 450 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomato water 500g 100%
1% <D Comb in e, and vacuum seal.
see page40 5g 0.5% 0 Infuse refrigerated forl2 h.
Basil 2.5 g 0.2%
Thyme leaves 1g 2% ® Strain tomato water.
Bay leaf, julienne lOg 28%
Salt 140g @) Season tomato water.
Spaghetti ortagliatelle 8% ® Soak spaghetti in tomato water forl h.
(store-bought) ® Drain, reserving tomato water.
Tomato confit, thinly 40g 0 Transfer tomato water and pasta to separate containers, and refrigerate. Pasta can be stored
sliced
see page179 5g for up to 8 h.
to taste ® Bring tomato water to boil. Add soaked pasta, and cook forl min 10 s.
Basil leaves, julienne ® Drain.
@ Toss with pasta to finish.
Extra-virgin olive oil
1%
from page 3·386
PL ANT FOO DS 1 93
COCOA TAJARIN Yields400g
Yields 14.5 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields 525 g
00 wheat flour 127g 100%
Semolina flour 85g 67% CD Combine.
Dutch processed cocoa 57g 45%
powder
Vital wheat gluten 5g 4% 0 Add to flour mixture, and kn ead for 10 min to ma ke dough.
Salt 2g 1.5%
Egg yolks 153 g 120% ® Vacuum seal. Refrige rate for12 h.
Water 35 g 28%
Extra virgin olive oil 29 g 23% 0 Roll into sheets 1 mm I y,, in thick.
0 Cut into noodles 2 mm I y,, in wide.
Deodorized cocoa butter 40 g 31.5%
(food-grade) ® Place on parchment paper, cover with damp towel, and refrigerate.
79%
Sea urchin butter warmed 100 g 0 Melt cocoa butter, and reserve.
from page 5·227
® Cook noodles in boiling 3% salt water for 40 s.
® Drain, a nd toss w ith me lted cocoa butter.
@ Garnish tajarin.
RAMEN NOODLES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All-purpose flour 78g 100%
Semolina flour 57g 73% CD Mix together.
Wheat gluten 2.5 g 3.2% 0 Form into mound .
Salt 1g 1.3%
Egg yolks, whisked 76.5g 98% ® Make well in center.
Water 17.5 g 22%
Neutral oil 14.5g 18.5% 0 Combine, and pour into well.
0 Mix slowly by hand until dough forms .
Ramen broth, warmed 400g 513%
(not freeze-dried) to taste ® Vacuum seal.
see page 61
0 Rest at room temperature for at least 1 h.
Yuzu zest, finely grated ® Roll with pasta roller into sheets 1 mm I ){, in th ick.
(fresh) ® Cut sheets into noodl es 2 mm I ){, in wide.
from page 5·250 @ Cook noodles in 3% salt solution for 30 s.
@ Divide noodles and broth evenly among four bowls.
@ Garnish with zest.
BUCKWHEAT DOUGH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Buckwheat flour 200g 100%
All-purpose flour 100g 50% CD Sift.
Activa Tl or RM 12g 6% 0 Combine with sifted buckwheat flour in food processor.
(4%)*
Salt 3.5 g 1.75% ® Process to mix thoroughly.
Whole milk 150 g 75%
Egg yolks 75g 37.5% 0 Blend thoroughly into flour mixture.
Grapeseed oil 40g 20% 0 Transfer dough to floured surface, and knead for10 min .
Oyster butter emulsion, 100 g 50% ® Vacuum seal.
warmed
see page 297 0 Refrigerate for12 h to allow e nzyme to bind proteins.
® Roll dough with pasta roller into sheets 2 mm I Y,, in thick.
from page 5·234 ® Cut sheets into noodles 0.5 em I Ys in wide.
@ Cook noodles in 3% salt solution for 1y, min.
@ Toss noodles in oyster butter and serve.
*(%oftotal weight ofbothflours)
194 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN M A NU AL
SEMOLINA PASTA QUANTITY Yields450 g
400g
INGREDIENT 100g SCALING
Semolina flour 100g 100%
All-purpose bleached wheat flour 28g 25%
Water 8g 25%
White wine (dry) 5.2g 7%
Album in powder 2%
Salt 1.3%
from page 3·382
COMPRESSED AND IMPREGNATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
0 Peel, and cut the ingredients into even-s ize pieces. Arrange the Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce
food in a single layer in a so us vide bag. Ingredient Liquid See page
0 Add liquid (optional). To impregnate the fruit or vegetable with apple app le juice 2·338
a liquid, add it to the bag or container; see the table at right for apricot chamomile tea
suggestions.
asparagus asparagus juice
0 Vacuum-seal by using full vacuum power. Rest the produce in
celery blue-cheese water
the bag or container for at least 10 min after the vacuum is
released . cucumber pickling brine 182
dragon fruit lychee juice
eggplant barbecue sauce di luted in water
fig port
grape, peeled verjuice (store-bought sour grape juice)
kiwi strawberry juice
lettuce smoked water 195
melon bacon water or prosciutto stock
onion pickling brine 178
peach vanil la syrup
pear red wine syrup
pineapple coconut water (store-bought or fresh), rum
plum almond milk
rhubarb grenadine syrup
strawberry thin cream infused with basil
tomato ketchup diluted in water
watermelon green tea
from page 3·390
SMOKED LETTUCE Yields 90 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
167%
Water 150g 0.9% 0 Mix together.
Hickory liquid smoke 0 .8g
(Wright's brand) (three drops)
Iceberg lettuce, cut 90g 100% 0 Pour smoky water over lettuce.
0 Place container, uncovered, in vacuum chamber.
1 em I% in squares
@ Pull vacuum until water boils, and then turn off machine and allow lettuce to absorb smoky
water in vacuum chamber for 20 min.
® Drain lettuce, and refrigerate.
from page 5·15
PLANT FOODS 195
CURRY-IMPREGNATED APPLE Yields1 kg
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING CD Vacuum sea l juice and spices.
Apple juice 1 kg 100% 0 Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
see page 2·338
Turmeric, freshly grated 20g 2% ® Place app les in bow l, and cover with infused jui ce.
Black peppercorns (who le) 3g 0.3%
Coriander seeds 2g 0.2% 0 Place bow l in chamber sea ler, and pull moderate vacuum. Re lease
Cinnamon stick, toasted 1.5g 0.15%
Cardamom 1g 0.1 % vacuum when li qu id begins to boi l, and then run vacuum cycle twice
Cloves (w hole) 1g 0.1% more to bo il a tota l of three tim es.
Star anise, toasted 1g 0.1 %
Saffron threads 0.2g 0.02% ® Hold under vacuum for15 min. After last cycle, turn machine off,
App les, peeled and co red 900g 90% and leave machine sea led. Wh en app les have fu ll y absorbed li quid,
from page 3·393 release vacuum, and remove food .
COMPRESSED MUSCAT GRAPES Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Muscat grapes 100g 100%
CD Blanch in boil ing water for 20-45 s, depending on ripeness. Riper grapes wi ll require shorter
Grape jui ce, clarified 100 g 100%
Verjuice (store-bought) 60g 60% time.
Fructose 12g 12%
Malic acid 1.3g 1.3% 0 Shock in ice-water bath, peel, and reserve.
Salt to taste
from page 5·110 ® Combine.
0 Taste for season ing ba lance.
® Vacuum sea l with peeled grapes to compress.
® Refrigerate for no more than 3-4 h before serving or grapes will become too soft.
COMPRESSED MELON TERRINE Yields675 g
ADAPTED FROM H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the calc ium lactate so lution :
Coldwater 500g 167% CD Disperse calcium lactate glu conate in water, and stir until fu ll y dissolved.
0.8%
Calcium lactate 2.5 g (0.5%)* 0 Vacuum seal planks in one even layer with calc ium solution.
125%
Honeydew melon, 375 g ® Refrigerate for 20 min.
100%
cut into five planks, 0 Remove from bag, and pat dry.
each 1 em I 'Is in thick,
5 em by10 em I 2 in by 4 in
Canta loupe, cut into four 300 g
planks, each 1 em I 'Is in
thick, 5 em by10 em I 2 in
by4in
For the pectin so luti o n:
Cold water 500 g 167% ® Mix pectin in water, and blend until fu ll y dispersed.
LM pectin 15 g 5% ® Bring solution to boil while shearing for1 m in to fully hydrate.
(Genu pectin LM 104 AS, (3%)* 0 Coo l.
CP Kelco brand)
® Brush one ca lcium-infused cantaloupe plank with coo led pectin so lution,
and lay calcium -infused honeydew plank on top.
® Repeat brushing and layering process w ith remaining six p lanks.
@ Vacuum sea l each stack to compress.
@ Refrigerate until bonded, about 12 h.
@ Cut terrines into slices, and serve.
from page 3·392 *(%oftotal weight ofwater used in the individual solution)
196 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
WATERMELON MEAT INSPIRED BY ANDON I LUIS ADURIZ Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Watermelon, peeled and white rind discarded 500g 100%
Water 100g 20%
1%
Salt 5g
from page 3·394
<D Cut into 2.5 em / 1 in "steaks." Cut from surface, seed less part on ly,
reserving all remaining watermelon flesh for another use. Leave sma ll lip
of white rind to mimic fat cap of stea k, if desired.
0 Wh isk together water and salt to make brine.
® Vacuum sea l watermelon steaks with brine, and refrige rate fo r 2 h.
0 Drain brined waterme lon, and pat dry.
® Dehydrate slices at 55 •c / 130 "Funtil dry and leather- like, 8- 12 h.
® Brush sli ces with water, vacuum seal, and refrigerate. This will moisten
them ju st enough to keep them tender.
0 Serve as fun replacement for meat. See the plated-dish recipe for
Watermelon Bu lgogi on page 5·285.
VEGETABLE COALS ADA PTED FROM MUGARITZ Yields250 g
Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cassava roots, peeled 675g 100%
White fish stock 350g 52% <D Cut into 4.5 em /H4 in cub es.
0 Combi ne stock and ink.
see page 12 15 g 2 .2%
Squid ink to taste ® Mi x with cassava cub es .
Salt
0 Simmer together until te nd er, 35-40 min.
® Drain ink-sta in ed cubes.
® Season .
from page 3·395
PULLED MUSHROOM INSPIRED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
King Trumpet 250g 100%
mu shrooms, sli ced in <D Vacuum seal oi l with mushroo ms.
half lengthwise 50g 20% 0 Cook so us vid e in 90 ·c / 194 "F bath for 4 h.
Neutral oil to taste
® Drain on tray lined with paper towels.
Barbecue sauce
see page220 0 Pull mu shroo ms apart into individual fibers.
from page 3·396
® Mix in, and serve.
PLANT FOODS 1 97
SQUID-INK BEAN-SPROUT RISOTTO Yields 700 g (eight portions)
ADAPTED FROM FERRAN AD RI A
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Bean sprouts 250g 100%
CD Cut off ends.
Squid stock (or water) 50g 20% 0 Cut into 1 em I 'Ia in st icks to resemb le ri ce, and reserve.
see page 6
Squid ink 2.5g ® Bl end stoc k and ink, and reserve, refrigerated.
Squid stock (or water) 50g
Agar (Texturas brand) 0 .3g 1% 0 Disperse agar in stock, and bring to bo il.
20%
Egg yo lks 30g 0.12% ® Simm er for 2 min, and remove from heat.
Garli c, mashed 8g ® Cast even ly into non st ick mold in layer1 em /'Ia in th ick .
Extra-virgin olive oil 150g 12%
Salt to taste 3.2% 0 Refri gerate until set, about 10 min.
Squ id legs 75 g 60%
Neutral oil as needed ® Cut squ id j ell y into cubes, and reserve.
Sa lt as needed 30% ® Blend .
Squ id ink stock, from 50g
above @ Drizzle slowly into yo lks, w hil e b lend ing, until emu lsifi ed and mayonnaise forms.
Neutral oil as needed @ Season and reserve.
Lemon herb oil @ Saute legs for 20 son each sid e until just cooked through.
see page 27 @ Season, remove from pan, and reserve.
from page 3·397 20% @ Saute bean sprou ts.
@ Add squ id ink stock to sa uteed sp routs.
@ Simmer together until risotto isju st cooked through and sti ll crunchy, about 2 min.
® Portion risotto into four bowls.
@ Garnish with squid jelly, garli c mayonnaise, squid legs, and parsley o il.
FROZEN WHITE "TRUFFLE" ADAPTED FROM QUI QUE DACOSTA
CD Disperse gelatin in co ld soy milk, and then st ir over medium heat until d isso lved INGREDIENT QUANTITY Yields 900 g
160 Bloom gelatin 6g
and fully hydrated. Soy milk 500g SCALING
Aged Parmesan cheese, 300g 2%
0 Blend in cheese until melted and fully incorporated into the mixture. grated 166%
White truffle oil 12g 100%
® Strain and chi ll. Blac k pepper, fine ly ground 0 .5g
Salt 6g 4%
0 Add white truffle oi l, sa lt, and pepper, and then p lace in 11 wh ipp ing siphon. Mannitol 800g 0.1 7%
Gold powder 2g 2%
Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Bronze powder 0 .2 g 267%
Dried porcini powder 60g 0.7%
® Melt mannitol in sma ll saucepan, and bring to 200 ' CI 390 ' F. Add co lored from page 3-400 0.07%
powders, and then ho ld at 180 ' C I 355 ' F. 20%
® Dispense foam onto offset spatul a in desired shapes. In sert bamboo skewer in to
each "truffle."
0 Dip in liquid nitrogen. After dipping, baste w ith nitrogen to ensure even freezing.
® Swirl frozen truffle in warm mannitol to coat evenly and soften rough edges.
® Refreeze in nitrogen. A brief dip wi ll set mannitol she ll.
@ Thaw in refrigerator for 1 h. Parmesan cream wil l soften as it warms .
@ Garnish w ith porcini powder.
198 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAL
CLAY POTATOES ADAPTED FROM AN DON I LUIS ADURIZ Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 3 kg 1,500%
Salt 24g 12% CD Combine in pot.
Whole baby Yukon Gold 200g 100%
potatoes, skins on 0 Simmer in salted water for 20 min, until cooked but still firm .
20%
Water 40g 15% ® Stra in.
Kaolin clay 30g 10%
Lactose 20g 0 .75 % 0 Place on bamboo skewers, and reserve warm.
Carbon black powder l.Sg
50% ® Combine.
Garl icconfit lOOg ® Dip warm skewered potatoes into clay mixture to coat.
see page176 40g 0 Place two cooling racks in deep hotel pan, one on bottom and one on top.
250g
Egg yo lks to taste ® Thread skewers to stand upright in racks.
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt ® Dry in 45 oc / 115 °Foven forlS min.
@ Transfer potatoes from skewers to serving plates.
@ Blend.
20% @ Blend into garlic and yolk mixture until emulsified and aiol i forms.
125% @ Season aioli, and serve with warm potatoes.
from page 3·398
FOSSILIZED SALSIFY BRANCH ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 350 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 500g 125%
Calcium hydroxide 4.Sg 1.13% CD Whisk calcium hydroxide into water to make brine.
(0.9%)*
Sa lsify root, scrubbed 400g 100% 0 Soak in brin e at room temperature for 3 h; stir every 30 m in to ens ure that calcium hydroxid e is
and peeled (four medium
roots) 25% distributed eve nly.
® Remove from brine, and rinse.
Salted cod roe or pollock 100 g
roe 0 Bake in 170 oc I 340 °Foven for 45 min, and reserve warm .
® Whisk and reserve.
Extra-virgin olive o il 16g 4%
Sea beans (Sa licorn ia) 40g 10% ® Toss .
2.5%
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 0 Place salsify root in center of each warmed plate.
® Garnish evenly with fish roe and sea beans.
from page 3·399 *(%ofweight ofwater usedfor brine)
PLANT FOODS 199
TRADITIONAL STARCH THICKENERS
0 Disperse by mixing the starch with whatever liquid you want to thicken 0 Heat to at least 80 oc /176 °Fto hydrate. Use a water bath if available; if
until a slurry forms. heating on a stove top, stir the mixture constantly. The starch so lution
will change from milky to clear when it is fully hydrated.
Best Bets for Thickening with Natural Starch
Starch Texture Translucency Flavor Application (scaling)* Heat-sensitive Stable when thawed
arrowroot creamy clear neutral broths 1% no unstable
jus, gravies 2%
corn creamy opaque strong broths 1.50% yes unstable
veloute, cream sauce 2.0%-2.5%
gravies 3%-4%
puddings 5.0%-6.5%
set gels 9%
kudzu gelatinous clear neutral broths 2% no unstable
glazes 5%-7%
dense puddings, tofu 12%
potato sticky clear subtle broths 1% yes unstable
jus, gravies 2%
stir-fry sauces 2.5%
rice sticky opaque subtle glazes 3.0%-3.5% yes unstable
soups 4%-5%
puddings, purees 7%-8%
tapioca sticky clear neutral broths 1.5%-2 .0 % somewhat stab le
jus, gravies 2.5%-3.0%
fruit fillings 4%-5%
waxy corn creamy opaque subtle broths 1% no stable
low-fat salad dressings 2.50%
gravies 4%
wheat creamy opaque strong veloute, cream sauce 2.5% yes stable
gravies 3.0%-3.5%
bechamel 4%-5%
from page 4·28 *(set weight ofliquid to be thickened to 700%)
PREGELATINIZED STARCH PASTE Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water SOg 12.5%
Tapioca starch SOg 12.5% 0 Whisk starch into water until fully dispersed.
0 Vacuum sea l mixture.
Water, hot 400g 100% ® Cook so us vide in 80 oc / 176 °F bath for 2 h.
0 Blend in hot water until fully incorporated while the paste is still warm.
from page 4·29
® Strain, coo l, and store vacuum-sealed at room temperature.
200 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
MODERN STARCH THICKENERS
0 Select a th icken in g agent from th e table below. Note that sta rches marked 0 Whisk the starch into the liquid to be thi ckened by hand . Do not use
as unstab le below may break down upon heating or upon thawing from a a blender, whi ch ca n make the mixture glu ey or stringy.
frozen state.
® Heat to hydrate if necessa ry. Bring Pure Cote B790 and Wondra to a
simm e r to hydrate fully; heat Novation PRIMA 600 to 75 oc / 167 °F.
Best Bets for Thickening with Modified Starch
Scaling Stable when See
(scaling)* page
Product Brand Source range• Translucency Texture Heated Thawed Example use
N-ZorbitM National tapioca 20%- nea rly swe ll ed unstab le un stab le o il powders 30%-40% 207
Starch 100% opaque gran ul es oil pastes 85%-100% 206
bulking gels, 5%-20% 242
sa uces
Ultra-Sperse 3 National tapioca 0 .2%-8% nea rly to full y sm ooth stab le stable meat g rav ies, jus 3%-4% 204
Starch opaque unsta bl e
stable pudd in gs 6%-8%
Flojel60 National co rn 1%-10% opaq ue smooth, stable cream sauce 4%
Starch stringy
puddings 7%
Novation National corn 1%-7% opaque smooth stable broths 2.0%-2 .5%
Prima600 Starch
purees 4%
Ultra-Tex 8 National tapioca 1%-10% nea rl y creamy stab le unstable cream sauce 3.0%-3.5%
Starch opaque
meat gravies, jus 4%
purees 6%
puddings 8%
Pure-Cote GPC corn 0.5%- clear smoot h stab le un stable films 12% 229
8790 GPC corn 20% clear s m oot h stab le sta bl e
Maltrin 1%-30% th icke ne d jui ces 15%
th in sauces 10%
purees 20%
Wondra Genera l barley malt, 1%-15% opaque smoot h stab le unstable grav ies, ve loute 6%-7%
from page 4-46 Mills
wheat bechamel 8%-9%
*(set weight ofliquid to be thickened to 700%)
AVOCADO PUREE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Hass avocado, peeled 140g 100%
Ultra-Sperse 5 5g 3.6% 0 Puree unti l smooth.
(National Starch brand) 0 Transfer to squeeze bottle.
Ascorbic acid 1.4 g 1%
Lime juice 1.4g 1% ® Pipe dots of avocado puree onto plates. Char lightly with blowtorch.
Sa lt to taste
from page 5·207
THICKENERS 201
MODERNIST BECHAMEL Yields215g
INSPIRED BY AK I KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEXANDER TALBOT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
All-purpose bleached flour 250g 125%
Unsalted butter, melted 250g 125% CD Combine, and divide mixture among three 500 ml 1 1 pt mason jars.
0 Seal jars, and place them upright in pressure cooker.
Whole milk, 200g 100%
15 g 7.5% ® Fill pressure cooker with water to middle of jars.
warmed to 45 •c I 113 •F 7g
0.2 g 0 Pressure-cook fat at gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for 2 h.
Pressure-cooked roux, from to taste
above to taste ® Coo l resulting roux at room temperature; measure 15 g for recipe, and refrigerate
remainder for later use.
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand) ® Whisk together with reserved roux until smooth to form bechamel.
Lambda carrageenan 0 Warm bechamel to desired temperature.
(Texturas brand)
3.5%
Nutmeg, freshly grated
0.1%
Salt
® Season.
from page 4·31
The bechamel can also be made by using 1.25% (2.5 g) lambda carrageenan If pressure-cooked in a canningjar, the roux can be stored without refrig-
rather than the amount indicated above and subst itutingl % (2 g) pregelati- eration. It has effectively been canned (see page 2·88). Once opened, it
nized starch paste for the Ultra-Sperse 3. For more details, see page 200. must be refrigerated.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PUDDING Yields 160 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
jerusalem artichokes, thinly 200g 200%
sliced CD Combine in nonstick pan.
Neutral oil 20g 20% 0 Cook artichoke slices over medium heat until golden brown and very tender, about
Whole milk 400g 400%
20 min.
jerusalem artichoke puree, 100g 100%
from above 3g ® Puree milk with cooked artichokes until smooth.
0.2g 3%
Ultra-Sperse 3 0.1 g 0 Pass puree through fine sieve; reserve 100 g of artichoke puree for recipe.
(National Starch brand) 25g
as needed ® Blend with reserved puree to form pudding.
Xanthan gum
® Divide pudding equa ll y among four sma ll bowls.
Lambda carrageenan
(Texturas brand) 0 Cover and refrigerate bowls of pudding.
jerusalem artichokes, thinly
sliced 0.2%
0.1%
Grapeseed oil
25% ® Heat oil to 190 •c I 375 • F.
Roasted-hazelnut oil 8g
® Add artichokes, and fry until golden brown, approximately 2 min.
Roasted hazelnuts, quartered 10 g @ Transfer artichokes to tray lined with paper towels, and cool.
8% @ Drizzle oil evenly over each bowl of pudding.
Pickled jerusalem artichoke, 6g 10% @ Garnish puddings.
fine julienne 6%
see page 178
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated 5g 5%
@ Season puddings.
Flaky salt to taste @ Top with fried artichokes.
from page 4·31
202 VO LUME 6 ·K I TC HEN MA NU AL
STEAMED COD WITH COD ROE VELOUTE Yields four portions
ADAPTED FROM MIGUEL SANCHEZ ROMERA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White fish stock SOg
20g 100% CD Blend together.
see page6 25g
lO g 50% 0 Combine warm, a nd stir until disso lved to make sy rup.
Pregelatinized starch paste lO g 50%
2.5g 20% ® Cool complete ly.
see page200 300g 20%
5% 0 Add juice and zest to syrup.
Water 30g 600%
Sugar ® Blend syrup with fish stock mixture to make veloute.
lemon juice to taste 60% ® Cut loin into four portions of75 geach.
l emon zest SOg
Cod fillet 100% 0 Vacuum sea l portions individu a ll y.
® Cook so us vide in 43 oc I 109 °Fbath to core temperature of 42 oc I 108 °F,
Salted cod roe (ortobiko)
abo ut 25 min.
Salt
Garlic oil ® Warm velo ute.
see page28 @ Whisk in rce.
@ Season roe veloute.
@ Place one cooked loin portion in center of each offour bowls.
® Spoon roe ve lo ute over loins.
@ Drizzle oil on top.
from page 4·32
SMOKED PEPPER PUREE Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Goulash broth, 185g 100%
CD Vacuum sea l together.
see pagel9 30g 16% 0 Coo k so us vide in 85 oc 1 185 °Fbath for 2 h.
Red be ll pepper, 23g 12 .5% ® Blend to fine puree.
thinly sliced lSg 8%
Re d onion, thinly sliced 8g 4.5% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Cured ham, thinly sliced
Smoked Hungarian to taste ® Measure 200 g.
paprika to taste
Re d wine vinegar 5.2 g ® Season puree.
Salt 2.8% 0 Whisk into puree.
Ultra-Sperse 5 (2.6%)*
(National Starch brand) ® Reheat and serve, or refrigerate until use.
from page 4·5 *(%oftotal weig ht ofpepper puree)
CARAMELIZED CREME FRAICHE Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Creme fralche 250 g 100% CD Co mbin e.
Ba king soda 2.Sg 1% 0 Pressure-cook in Mason jars at gauge pressure of
Garlic co nfit, sieved 50 g 20 % 1.4 bar I 21 psi for 2'/2 h. Raising the pH level (by add in g
3.75 g 1.5% baking soda) and pressure-cooking
see pagel76 ® Cool. tem pe rature greatly accelerates the
to taste Maillard reaction that produces a
Prege latinized sta rch 0 Blend into creme fralche. brown color and distinct flavor.
paste (or Ultra-Sperse 3)
® Season.
seepage200 ® Serve, or refrigerate until use.
Salt
from page 4·5
THI CKEN ERS 203
POMEGRANATE AND CARUM JUS YieldsSSO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
200g 100%
Brown duck stock CD Combine.
see page 6 34g 17% 0 Bring to boil.
10%
Pomegranate juice ® Cool.
2.4%
Carum (or fish sauce) 20g 0 Season jus with vin egar.
Malt vinegar as needed
4.8g ® Blend in Ultra-Sperse 3 to th ic ke n.
Ultra-Sperse 3 ® Serve, or refrigerate until use.
(National Starch brand)
from page 5·122
TURKEY WING QUANTITY SCALING Yields 450 g (four portions)
300g 100%
INGREDIENT 9g 3% PROCEDURE
Turkey wings, ends cut off 3g 1%
Salt 5% CD Mix salt and sugar and rub even ly onto wings .
Sugar 15g 0 Vacuum seal.
8.3%
Clarified butter 25 g ® Refrigerate to cure for 24 h.
as needed
Potato starch as needed 0 Remove cured wings from bags; rinse off cure.
Frying oil
Sage, leaves ® Vacuum seal wings with butter.
from page 4·33 ® Cook so us vide in 58 °C I 136 °Fbath for12 h.
0 Remove wings from bag while still hot; carefully d e bone without rupturing meat.
® Refrigerate.
® Coat wings with starch.
@) Pour thin film of oil in nonstick pan.
@ Fry coated wings for 2 min on each side.
@ Transfer to serving plates, and garnish with gravy and whole sage leaves.
THANKSGIVING TURKEY GRAVY Yields245g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown chicken orturkey stock 600g 300% CD Reduce to 200 g, and reserve.
see page6
Reduced chicken or turkey 200g 100% 0 Blend reduce d stock and garlic con fit together to make gravy.
stock, from above 12.5%
® Whisk in Ultra-Sp e rse 3.
Garlic con fit, pureed 25 g
see page176 0 Warm gravy to 70 °CI 160 °F.
Ultra-Sperse 3 8g 4%
5% ® Whisk into warm gravy.
Dried cranberries, finely lOg
minced
Sage, finely minced 2g 1%
0.075%
Black peppercorns, coarsely 0.15g
ground
Salt to taste ® Season gravy.
from page 4·33
204 VOlUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAl
HEATHER-SMOKED STURGEON RILLETTES Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Store-bought sturgeon can be
Shallots, finely minced 15g 15% substituted in this recipe.
White balsamic vinegar 13g 13% CD Marinate shallots at room temperature for 30 min.
Heather-smoked 100g 100%
sturgeon 0 Shred sturgeon.
see pagel22 75g 75%
Basic mayonnaise ® Combine shallots, sturgeon, and remaining
see page303 9g 9% ingredients in stand mixer.
Celery, finely minced 5g 5%
Chives, minced 1.5 g 1.5% @ Whip on medium-high speed until fluffy and all
Celery leaf, minced 1.5g 1.5% ingredients are well incorporated.
Chervil, minced 1.5g 1.5%
Tarragon, minced l.2g 1.2% ® Refrigerate until use.
Smoked salt 1.2 g 1.2%
Ultra-Sperse 3
(National Starch brand) 1g 1%
Lime zest, finely grated 0.7g 0.7%
Lemon juice
from page 5·235
CRISPY GOAT'S MILK RICOTTA DUMPLING Yields290 g
ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Goatmilkricottaorcow 200g 100% CD Blend together fully.
milk ricotta
store-bought or see page 248
Heavy cream 80g 40%
Salt 2.8g 1.4%
Black pepper 0.5g 0.25%
Ultra-Tex4 8g 4% 0 Fold into ricotta mixture.
(3%)*
(National Starch brand) ® Roll into logs 3 em I 2)4 in. in diameter on nonstick surface, using your palms.
@ Cut logs crosswise into 3 em I 2)4 in pieces.
Frying oil as needed ® Arrange pieces on nonstick baking sheet and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-274
® To serve, dehydrate dumplings in 45 oc 1 115 °Foven for45 min.
0 Deep-fry dumplings in 195 oc I 385 °Foil until crispy and golden, about 1 min, and drain on
paper towels.
*(%oftotal weight ofgoat's milk ricatta and heavy cream)
MARCONA ALMOND BUTTER PASTE Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Raw Marcona almonds 500 g 143%
CD Roast in 175 oc I 350 °Foven until golden, about 15 min.
Marcona almond butter, 350 g 100% 0 Process roasted nuts with colloid mill or food processor until smooth, and measure 350 g.
from above
® Blend together to thicken.
Ultra-Sperse 5 10.5 g 3%
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste @ Season butter, and refrigerate until use. Before use, temper at room temperature for 15 min.
from page 5·282
THICKENERS 205
MALT VINEGAR POWDER Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Spray-dried malt vinegar 200g 100%
Acetic acid 40g 20% 0 Grind together, and sift through fine sieve.
Salt 36g lB % 0 Season with salt to taste.
Sugar 12g 6%
N-ZorbitM Bg 4% ® Store in an airtight container in dark, cool place.
(National Starch brand)
from page 4·34
BACON POWDER SQUARES ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100 g
Smoked bacon fat, rendered 100% 0 Warm bacon fat just enough to liquefy it.
see page 3·145 BOg
BO% 0 Whisk bacon fat into N-Zorbit M a little at a time until fully incorporated with powder.
N~o~~M to taste
to taste 70% ® Season powder.
(National Starch brand) 70g
0 Form powder into squares 13 mm I \1.! in wide, and set aside.
Salt ® Cut glass into squares 5 em I 2 in wide.
Black pepper, fine powder ® Place one single bacon powder square in center of each glass square.
Pineapple glass 0 Fold glass squares over bacon powd er squares to form small packets.
see page 187
® Serve immediately, or store packets in cool, dry environment.
from page 4-34
PARMESAN NUGGETS INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields35 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Parmesan, grated 100g 100%
0 Microwave until oil separates from solids.
N-ZorbitM 25g 25% 0 Strain; reserve 10 g of oil for recipe.
(National Starch brand)
® Whisk oil into N-Zorbit M a little at a time, until fully incorporated. Resulting powder may
be used as seasoning.
0 Spoon thin layer of resulting powder into nonstick pan.
® Saute powd er over low heat; swirl constantly until small spheres form and begin to dry.
® Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate.
from page 4·35
SPICED ASH Yields BOg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
45g
Pain d 'epices powder B.5g 100% 0 Whisk together.
see page 51 7g
19%
Carbon color powder 12g
(MSKbrand) lOg 15.5%
Kaolin clay powder 27% 0 Whisk oil slowly into N-Zorbit M.
(MeadowSweet Herbs
and Oils brand) 22% ® Incorporate tinted spice blend thoroughly.
Roasted hazelnut oil
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
from page 5·22
206 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
VANILLA OLIVE OIL POWDER ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields 130 g
Confectioner's sugar BOg 80% Yields 575 g
N-ZorbitM 160g 160% CD Dry bl end.
(National Starch brand)
Vanilla pulp and seeds 14g 14%
(from four beans)
Salt
Olive oil 4g 4%
from page 4·35 100g 100% 0 Whisk into powder until fully incorporated.
® Press through fine tam is to remove clumps.
@ Store in airtight conta in er in coo l, dry p lace.
CASHEW HALVAH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cashews, roasted 100 g 100%
N-Zorbit M 30 g 30 % CD Combine.
(National Starch brand) 0 Grind to fine powd er.
Salt 1.5 g 1.5%
from page 5·93 ® Refrigerate until use.
ALMOND POLENTA ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Marcona almonds, 250g 100%
toasted and finely grated 30g CD Whisk together.
N-ZorbitM 5g 12% 0 Set dry mixture aside.
(National Starch brand) 0.4 g (5%)*
Ultra-Sperse M 250 g
(National Starch brand) 2%
Xanthan gum 40g (0.9 %)*
White chicken stock to taste
0.16 %
see page 6 and page 11
100% ® Pour stock into pot.
Sweet almond oil
Salt @ Whisk in dry mixture from above.
from page 4·36
® Cook over med iu m heat; stir until just thickened, about 3 min .
16% ® Whiskin.
0 Season.
*(% oftotal weight ofall ingredients)
TH I CKENERS 207
EDIBLE EARTH INSPIRED BY RENE REDZEPI AND WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields475 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Almond flour, toasted 200g 75 % CD Blend in food processor until resembles soil.
Black bread, thinly sliced and 150g
dehydrated at135 oc I 275 °F
N-ZorbitM 20g 10% This is our homage to the edible
(National Starch brand) land scapes of Michel Bras (Le
Gargouil/ou de}eunes Legumes),
Barley malt powder 18.5g 9 .25 % David Kinch (Into the Vegetable
8 .5% Garden), and the many modern
Dried ch icory root, coarsely 17g chefs who have simulated the
ground aesthetics of nature in their dishes,
including Quique Dacosta, Ferran
Dried porcini powder 15g 7.5% and A lb ert Adria, Andoni Luis
7% Aduriz, Yoshiaki Takazawa, and
Freeze-dried shiitake powder 14g Sam Mason, among others.
see page 188 15.5%
4.5%
Grapeseed oil 31 g 0 Drizzle into dry mixture while continuing to
Toasted-pumpkin seed oil 9g blend with food processor until o il is fu ll y
in corporated.
Caramel color powder as needed
Salt to taste ® Adjust co lor if necessary.
0 Season.
® Transfer to airtight container and store in cool,
dry place.
from page 4·37
208 VO LUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CORN PEBBLES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 95 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Corn, freeze-dried and 30g
ground into powder 100% @ Dry blend.
see page 188 (or store-bought) 15g 50% 0 Combine oils.
50%
N-ZorbitM 15g 20% ® Whisk into powder mixture until fully incorporated.
(National Starch brand) 6g 100%
Spray-dried buttermilk @ Season resulting corn pebble base.
30g
se e page 59 (or store-bought) to taste ® Form into 1 em I :Y. in diameter balls; wearing latex gloves will help.
® Bake in 135 •c I 275 • Foven until balls become lightly golden and begin to firm, about
Smoked-grapeseed oil
(store-bought) 6min.
Grapeseed oil
Salt 0 Serve immediately, or store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
from page 4·36
TH I CKENERS 209
THICKENED HOT AND COLD LIQUIDS
CD Choose the amount of thickening desired and a corresponding formula. stirred directly into cold liquids; those listed as hot-soluble can be stirred
into hot liquids. Otherwise, stir the agent into a small amount of cold
We recommend those listed in the tables that follow. Proportions are liquid to dissolve it, and then add it to the remaining liquid, and finally
given relative to the weight of liquid used. For example, add 0.5 g of guar whisk to disperse it.
gum and 0.35 g of xanthan gum to every 100 g of carrot juice to make a
thick, hot carrot sauce. ® Hydrate fully. Heat as directed in the hydration column of th e tables.
0 Disperse the thickeners. Thickening agents listed as cold-soluble can be Temperatures indicated are the minimum required for proper hydration .
Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids
Amount of Hydrate Heat stability Note Example use
thickening Thickeners (scaling)* (oC) (oF) (min) thins at high temp
yes
very little xanthan gum 0.2% hot or cold light consommes
best used in dairy applications and broths,
lambda carrageenan 0.1% cold
flavored milks
little gum arabic 10% 60 140 5 yes slightly opaque, not suited to constructed
moderate cold yes
160 Bloom gelatin 3% thins at high temp clear liquids broths, light
great hot or cold
lambda carrageenan 0.25% 82 180 3 yes best used in dairy applications soups
xanthan gum 0.35% cold thickens at high
temp
propylene glycol 0.65% 82 180 3 thins at high temp cream sauces,
veloutes, soups
alginate hot or cold
microcrystalline 1.5 %
ce llulose
gum tragacanth 0.35%
lambda carrageenan 0.4% high-calcium solutions may
become too thick
locust bean gum 0.2%
guargum 0.5% good for liquids with a high soups and
ratio of suspended solids, coating sauces,
xanthan gum 0.35% slightly opaque veloutes
160 Bloom gelatin 9% 60 140 5 yes sucrose, fructose or another, meat glazes,
glucose syrup DE40 4% less sweet sugar solid may be constructed jus
cellulose gum LV 0.5% yes substituted (see page 34)
lambda carrageenan 0.8% yes
very great xa nthan gum 0.3% cold best used in dairy applications light puddings
lambda carrageenan 0.7% co ld thickens at high
ce llulose gum LV 1.2% temp purees and
konjac gum 0.15% room 30 sp reads, thick
xanthan gum 0.15% shearfor 5 min after dispersing glazes, savory
temperature to ensure konjac fully hydrates; puddings
best texture when fat concen-
tration is above 12%
from page 4-46 *(set weight ofliquid to be thickened to 700%)
210 VOlUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAl
Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids
Amount of Hydrate Note Example use
thickening Thickeners (scaling)* (oc) (oF) (min) opaque, not suited for clear liquids flavored milk
cold consommes
very little guargum 0.35% hot or cold broths, light soups
xanthan gum 0.15% hot or cold broths, light soups
cold cream sauces
little lambda carrageenan 0.15% co ld
light fruit and vegetable
xanthan gum 0.10% purees, soups
light fruit and vegetable
xanthan gum 0.25% hot or cold purees, soups
gazpachos and other cold
moderate guargum 0.25% cold soups
coati ng sauces
ce llulose gum LV 0.50%
pastes, thick purees
lambda carrageenan 0.25% cold
xanthan gum 0.15%
xanthan gum 0.4% hot or cold
great konjacgum 0.3% 82 180 3 shear for 5 min after dispersing to
0.1% ensure that konjac hydrates fully
locust bean gum 1.0%
0.5%
cel lulose gum LV 0.5% cold opaque, not suited for clear liquids
0.2%
lambda carrageenan 2.25%
0.50%
very great gum tragacanth cold best texture when fat concentration
is above12%
xanthan gum
cellulose gum LV 82 180 3 best texture when solids ratio is high
propylene glycol
alginate
from page 4-46 *(set weight ofliquid to be thickened to 700%)
HAM CONSOMME WITH MELON BEADS ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 600 g(lO servings)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, co ld SOOg 200%
Ibe rico ham, excess fat 250g 100% CD Combine, and simmerfor15 min.
removed, thinly sliced 0 Cool comp lete ly, and remove congea led fat from surface of broth.
Iberica ham consomme 250g 100%
Xanthan gum 0.6g 0.24% ® Pass broth through fine sieve, and reserve 250 g of consomme.
(Texturas brand)
Melon juice 0 Blend thoroughly with consomme.
see page 2·336 ® Refrigerate for later use.
Sodium alginate (Algin, SOOg 200% ® Blend with juice until dissolved.
Texturas brand)
Water (from about 0 Vacuum seal to remove any trapped air.
Calcium chloride
800 g of melon) ® Transfer to Texturas-style syringe.
Black peppercorns,
finely ground 2g 0.8% ® Blend together until fully dissolved.
from page 4-48 (0.4%)*
@ Expel juice from syringe, one droplet at a time, into calcium chloride bath.
SOOg 200% @ Remove resulting beads from bath after 3 min.
@ Rinse beads in clean water bath.
2.5g 1% @ Serve, or store beads in clean water.
@ To serve, fill1 0 champagne flutes with 50 g each of cold ham consomme.
to taste @ Spoon 10 g of melon juice beads into each flute; beads will remain suspended.
@ Garnish.
*(%ofweight ofmelon juice)
THI CK ENER S 211
TOMATO WHEY BROTH Yields230 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomato water 100g 100% CD Whisk together.
seepage40
Whey, from goat milk ricotta 100 g 100%
making
see page 248
lambda carrageenan 0 .20g 0.2% 0 Dry blend together.
(Texturas brand)
(0.7%)* ®B lend into tomato-whey mixture until fully hydrated.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.20g
CP Kelco brand) 0.2% 0 Refrigerate.
(0.7%)* ®Season just before serving, or whey wil l curdle.
@ Serve co ld with fresh mozzarella or on tomato salad.
Salt to taste
Tomato vinegar to taste
see page 315 or lemon juice (optional)
from page 4·49 *(%oftotal weight oftomato water and whey)
TRUFFLEJUS INSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 30g 30%
Clarified butter 1Sg 15% CD Cook together over low heat until tender, about 5 min.
Black peppercorns, ground O.Sg 0 .5%
Red port (dry) 40g 40% 0 Add to pan of cooked sha ll ots.
Red wine (dry) 40g 40%
® Simmertogetherfor2 min to cook off alcohol flavor.
Mushroom jus, cold 100 g 100%
see page 37 0 Keep port base hot for later use.
0.54%
Konjac gum (Ticagel 0.54 g (0.3 %)* ® Disperse gum into co ld mushroom jus.
35% @ Whisk mushroom jus into hot port base.
Konjac HV, TIC Gums brand)
0 Bring to simme r, and blend continuousl y for 5 min to ensure konjac is fully disp e rsed.
Black truffles, vacuum-packed, 35 g
frozen, thawed, then minced ® Whisk into warm mushroom jus and wine mixture.
Black truffle oil 7g 7%
Dark cocoa powder 4g 4%
Thyme essential oil O.OSg 0.05%
Salt to taste ® Remove jus from heat.
Sherry vinegar to taste @ Season.
from page 4·53 *(%oftotal weight ofred port wine and mushroom jus)
BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH JUS DE ROTI Yields 500 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
400%
Beeftenderloin 400g 40% CD Vacuum seal together.
100% 0 Cook so us vide in 53 °C I 127 °Fbath to core temperature of 52 °C / 126 °F.
Rendered beef marrow or suet 40g
9% ® Combine.
Brown beef stock lOOg 2.5%
see page 10 1.75% 0 Bringjus to low simmer to dissolve solids.
160 Bloom gelatin 9g
Fructose 2.5g
D-Ribose Powder 1.75g
(Solgar brand)
Cellulose gum O.Sg 0.5%
(CekollVD, CP Kelco brand)
Koji-Aji (Ajinomoto brand) 0.4g 0.4%
0.2%
Caramel coloring 0 .2g
Malic acid to taste ® Season jus, and serve with sliced beeftenderloin.
Salt to taste
from page 4·54
212 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
OLIVE OIL SPREAD Yields325g
Yields430 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields275 g
Deodorized cocoa butter lOOg 44%
Olive oil 225g 100% CD Heatto 40 oc I 104 °Fto melt.
0 Blend with melted butter.
Black pepper, ground lg 0.4%
Thyme essentia l o il (optional) 0.2g 0.09% ® Allow mixture to harden at room temperature.
Rosemary essential oil O.lg 0.04%
(optional) 0 Blend again to sil ky cons istency.
Fleur de sel to taste
from page 4 ·51 ® Wh isk into spread.
® Season, and warm at room temperature for 20 min before serving.
WHITE GRAPE SYRUP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
500%
Muscat grapes 2 kg CD ju ice with Champion juicer or similar appliance.
(or other white grapes) 100% 0 Clarify juice with pressure or vacuum fi ltration .
5%
Clarified grape juice, from 400g 1.3% ® Reserve 400 g.
above 1%
20g 0 .3% 0 Blend.
Fructose 4.5g
Malic acid 4g ® Adjust sweetness and acidity to taste.
Cellulose gum
(Cekol LVD, CP Kelco brand) 1.2g ® Shear into juice mixture.
Xanthan gum (Ke ltrol T, 0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate syrup.
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4·52
XO SAUCE QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
250g 125%
INGREDIENT CD Combine, and vacuum seal.
Brown pork stock 60g 30% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 °C I 194 °Fbath for 1 h.
see page6 40g 20%
Cured ham, finely minced ® Strain, and press solids to remove as much liquid as possible.
Ginger, peeled and lOg
thinly sliced 200g 0 Measure 200 g of infused stock, and cool.
Agave nectar (or honey)
Infused pork stock, 2g 5% ® Shear into reserved stock to hydrate.
from above 100%
Cellulose gum O.Sg
(Cekol LV, CP Kelco brand) 1%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 14g
CP Kelco brand) 12g 0 .25%
Salted dried shrimp, minced 7g
Ginger, minced 7g 7% ® Fry together until tender, about 2 min.
Dried scallop, minced 6%
Fermented b lack beans, 7g 3.5% 0 Blot excess oi l with paper towels.
m in c e d 3g 3.5%
Garlic, minced ® Fold mixture into thickened stock base.
Dried red chilies, 5g ® Serve with Deep-Fried Custard (page 255), or coo l and refrigerate.
seeded and minced
Frying oil 3.5%
from page 4·52 1.5%
2.5%
THICKENERS 213
CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAM Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
350g 350%
Coconut milk 50g 50% 0 Combine.
Palm sugar 1.5g 0 Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for1Y., h.
Baking soda 100g
Coconut water 1.5% ® Cool comp letely; liquid may curdle as it cools, which is normal.
(canned or fresh) 1.75 g
Propylene glycol alginate (Protanal 100% @ Blend until sodium a lgin ate is completely dissolved.
Ester BV, FMC BioPolymer brand) 50g
Young coconut meat ® Combine with coconut milk mixture .
(frozen or fresh)
1.75%
(0.35%)*
50% @ Add to coconut milk mixture, and blend until smooth.
0 Strain through fine sieve.
® Refrigerate.
from page 4·50 *(%oftotal weight ofall ingredients)
PRESSURE-COOKED POLENTA WITH STRAWBERRY MARINARA Yields 800 g (12 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the strawberry marinara:
Strawberries, thinly sliced 220g 88% 0 Combine a ll ingredients in pot, and simmer, until reduced and thickened, about
Heirloom tomato, peeled 190g 76%
Strawberry juice, clarified 185g 74% 90 min.
Sweet onion, finely minced 100g 40%
White wine (dry) lOOg 40% 0 Whisk gum into marinara base until fully dispersed.
Garlic, thinly sliced and blanched 3g
Basil leaves, torn 2g 1.2%
Tarragon leaves, crushed 2g
Strawberry marinara, from above 250 g 0.8%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6 g 0.8%
CP Kelco brand) 100%
Salt 0 .24%
Lime juice
For the corn husk consomme: to taste ® Season marinara, and reserve.
Water to taste
Corn husks, fresh 400% @ Line baking sheet with corn husks, and toast in 205 ' C I 400 ' F oven for10 min .
1 kg 50%
Cellulose gum 125 g ® Flip husks, and toast for another 5 min until deep go ld en brown.
(CekollVD, CP Kelco brand) 0.8% @ Combine husks with water, and simm er for 30 min to infu se. Strain and reserve.
Fructose 2g (0.2%)*
Salt 4% 0 Blend gum into consomme base, and season.
For the polenta: to taste
Clarified butter to taste
Stone-ground polenta
Corn juice, clarified 15g 6% ® Saute polenta in butter until golden, 3-4 min.
100g
Mascarpone 300g 40% ® Cool completely.
see page 226 (or store bought) 20g 120% @ Combine with toasted polenta, and vacuum seal.
15g
Ricotta salata, grated to taste @ Place in pressure cooker, and cover with water. Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
Salt
1 bar I 15 psi for 8 min.
from page 4·50
8% @ Remove cooked polenta from bag, and whisk in mascarpone and ricotta.
® Season with sa lt.
6% @ Divide among bowls, and garnish with strawberry marinara.
@ Pour some consomme over polenta at table.
*(%oftotal weight ofcom husk consomme)
214 VO LU ME 6 · KI TC HEN MA NU AL
CREAMED SPINACH Yieldsl25 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Baby spinach, cleaned 150 g 100%
Olive oil 5g 3.3% 0 Saute until wilted, about 1 min.
Salt to taste 0 Season, a nd cool completely.
4% 0 Transfer to colander, and press to remove excess liquid.
Garlic confit, mashed 6g 3.3% 0 Chop fin e ly.
see page176 3.3%
Olive oil 5g 18% ® Saute until shallots are translucent.
Shallots, finely minced 5g ® Add spinach.
27g 13.3%
Mascarpone 0.3% 0 Stir together, and cook for3 min.
see page 226 (or store-bought) 20g
0.5g 0.06% ® Remove spinach from heat.
low-fat milk
Ultra-Sperse 3 0.1 g ® Stir into spi nach until completely incorporated.
(National Starch brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, lOg @) Set spinach mixture as ide.
CP Kelco brand) 0.5g @ Dry blend Ultra-Sperse 3 and xa nth a n gum.
Comte cheese, finely grated 0 .2g @ Whisk dry mixture into cold milk until fully hydrated .
lemon zest, finely grated ® Mix thickened milk into creamed spinach.
Black peppercorns, ground
from page 4·55 6.7% @ To serve, fold Comte cheese into creamed sp in ach, and scatter some on top.
0.3% @ Season with lemon zest and black pepper.
0.1% @ Serve warm or cold.
WARM POTATO AND PISTACHIO PESTO SALAD Yields2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
80%
Italian basil leaves BOg 70% 0 Blanch in boiling water individually until tender, about 2 m in each .
70% 0 Cool in ice water and squeeze to remove excess moisture.
Cilantro leaves 70g 70% 0 Reserve refrigerated.
16%
Chives 70g 190% 0 Blanc in boilingwaterfor2 min. Drain and rese rve.
100%
Scallion greens 70g ® Puree togeth er with cooked herbs an d blanched garlic until smooth.
Garlic cloves, peeled 16g ® Measure 900 g of pistachio pesto.
Extra virgin olive oil 190g
Parmiggiano Reggiano, lOOg
finely grated
Pistachios, peeled and toasted 100g 100%
40%
Roasted-pistachio oil 40g 30%
Spinach puree 30g
see page144
lemon juice 20g 20%
900%
Pistachio pesto, from above 900g 0 Season.
Salt to taste
Microcrystalline cellulose 9g 9% ® Blend into pistachio pesto to fully hydrate .
(AviceI CG 200, FMC (1%)* ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for at least 1 h to macerate.
BioPolymer brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1. 8 g 1. 8%
CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
Fingerling potatoes, skin on 1 kg 1,000% @) Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 90 °C I 194 °Fbath until tender, about 45 min.
Olive oil lOOg 100% @ Remove from bag while still warm.
@ Slice thinly.
® Toss with pesto as desired.
from page 4·53 *(%ofweight ofpistachio pesto)
T HIC KE NERS 215
AGED RARE BEEF JUS Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
700%
Aged beef chuck steak, 700 g 0 Vacuum sea l.
1.4% 0 Cook so us vide in 53 oc 1 127 °Fbath for 4 h.
cut into 2.5 em I 1 in cubes
® Press aga inst fine sieve to get juice, discarding meat.
Bromelain capsules, 1.4 g
ground to fine powder 0 Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for 30 min to yield about 100 g of aged beef jus, and reserve.
(optional, NOW Foods
brand)
Water, cold lOOg 100% ® Disperse gums in water.
0.3 % ® Blend gum mixture into aged beef jus until comp lete ly fluid.
Xanthan gum 0.3g (0.75%)*
Guargum O.lg 0.1%
(0.05%)*
Aged beefjus, lOO g
from above 2g 100%
Monosodium glutamate to taste
(MSG) 0.4% 0 Season jus.
Salt ® Cool, vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until use. To serve, reheat if necessary, no higher than
from page 5·6 52 oc I 125 °F, and serve.
*(% oftotal weight ofwater and aged beef}us)
SHIITAKE MARMALADE Yieldsl50 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
70%
Shallots, finely minced 70g 26% 0 Saute over low heat until tender, about 20 min.
Shiitake mushrooms, 26g
brunoise
Clarified unsalted butter lOg 10%
10%
Garlic, brunoise lOg 10%
40%
Rend ered beef marrow lOg
20%
Tomato water 40g 100% 0 Add to sha llot mi xture, and reduce to 50 g to make marmalade base.
see page40
3% ® Reserve.
Sherry vinegar 20g 0.3%
0 Disperse gelatin into beef jus.
Brown beefjus lOOg 0.25%
see page 34 ® Heat to fully dissolve gelatin.
160 Bloom gelatin 3g ® Blend into beef jus.
Xanthan gum 0.3g 0 Fold in reserved marmalade base.
Black pepper, coarsely 0.25g ® Season marmalade.
ground to taste ® Serve or coo l, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Salt
from page 5·7
MAPLE VINEGAR GASTRIQUE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE We used Avi eel CG200 microcrys-
175 % talline cellulose, made by FMC
Maple syrup (G rade B) 175g 100% 0 Whisk together. Biopolymer.
20% 0 Vacuum seal.
Sherry vinegar 100 g 3%
® Refrigerate until use.
Cider vinegar 20 g
Microcrystalline cellulose 3 g
(Avice! CG-200, FMC
Biopolymer brand)
from page 5·128
216 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
MUSHROOM KETCHUP Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT Q U A N T ITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yellow onions, thinly 350 g
sliced 54% 0 Saute until translucent, abo ut 7 min.
Olive o il 53 g
Garlic, thinly sliced 32g 8% 0 Add to onions, and cook forl min.
Ginger, thinly sliced 7g 5%
Crimini mushrooms, 650 g 1% ® Combine with onion mixture and simmer, stirring frequent ly, until mushrooms are very tender
thi nl y sli ced 100% a nd li quid has evapo rated, about 35 min .
Malt vinegar 155 g
Dark ale 105g 24% @ Blend until smooth.
Mushroom broth, from 70g 16% ® Pass through fin e sieve.
above 11 % ® Adjust seasoning to taste.
Barley malt syrup 40g
Cane vinegar 40g 6% 0 Measure 800 g of ketchup.
Molasses 40g 6%
Fish sauce 34g 6%
Freeze-dried shiitake 30 g 5%
mushrooms (or dried 4.5%
shiitake powder) 15.5 g
Sea salt lOg 2.5%
Honey 7g 1.5%
Horseradish, fresh ly 1%
grated 4.2g
Mace blades 2.2g 0.6%
Allspice berries (two berries) 0.3%
0.6 g
Freeze-dried coffee 0.1%
powder 800g
see page 58 1.6g 123% ® Blend together until smooth, and refrigerate .
Ketchup, from above
Xanthan gum 0.25%
(0.2%)*
from page 5·13 *(%oftotal weightofketchup)
APRICOT AND JASMINE PUREE Yields250 g
IN GRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Unripe apricot juice, fresh 315 g 32% 0 Blend toget her to fin e puree.
0.15 %
Dried apricots, chopped 100 g (0 .11%)* 0 Whisk into apricot puree.
Xanthan gum 0.5 g 8% ® Refrigerate until use.
0.03%
Osmanthus vin egar 25g
jasmine essential oil
0.1 g
from page 5·1 73 (one drop)
*(% total weight ofall other ingredients)
THICKENERS 217
SEAWEED TAPENADE Yields525g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green olives, 200g 100%
finely minced CD Drain ingredients soaked in water.
Dulse seaweed, soaked lOOg 50% 0 Reserve all ingredients separate ly.
in waterforl h, finely minced
Shallots, finely minced 75 g 37.5%
Arame seaweed, soaked 50g 25%
in waterforl h, finely minced
Hijiki seaweed, soaked 50g 25 %
in waterforl h, finely minced
Capers, finely minced 25g 12.5% ® Whisk together until smooth.
Anchovy paste lOg 5% @ Fold in rese rved ingredients from above.
Dijon mustard lOg 5%
Lemon juice 7g 3.5% ® Seaso n tapenade.
Garlic, finely minced Sg 2.5% ® Se rve, or refrigerate until use.
Xanthan gum 0 .2g 0.1 %
Salt
from page 5·27
TAMARIND PUREE Yields240 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tamarind paste 140g 100%
see page 145 CD Vacuum seal together.
Sour Indian plum 140g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 · c / 194 •Fbath forl h.
(alubukhara)
50g ® Pass through fine sieve.
Water 3.5 g
Coconut sugar 36%
(store-bought) l.Sg
lg 2.5% @ Blend with tamarind paste and plum mixture.
Salt 0.45g
Sherry vinegar 1.1 % ® Pass through fine sieve.
Xanthan gum 0.7% ® Refrigerate until use.
0.32%
(0.2%)*
from page 5·282 *(% oftotal weight ofcooked tamarind, plum, and waterpuree)
218 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SOUTH CAROLINA BARBECUE SAUCE Yields380 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Dijon mustard 300 g 100%
Lager beer 125g 42 % CD Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Cider vinegar 30 g 10% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent st ick ing, until
Tomato puree 30g 10%
Brown sugar 15g 5% reduced to 380 g, about 20 min.
Worcestershire sauce lOg 3%
Black pepper, ground 1.5g 0.5% ® Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Garlic powder 1.5g 0.5%
Cayenne pepper to taste
Cider vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·70
KENTUCKY BARBECUE SAUCE Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 300g 100% CD Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Cider vinegar 60g 20% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
Brown sugar 50g 17%
Molasses 30g 10% until reduced to 300 g, about 15 min.
Pineapple juice (fresh) 30g 10 %
Bourbon (Wi ld Turkey 25g B.5% ® Blend into warm mixture until fully emulsified.
brand)
Bacon fat 8g 2 .7% 0 Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Worcestershire sauce 5g 2%
Unsalted butter 8g 2.7%
Bourbon (Wild Turkey 20g 6.7%
brand)
Lemon juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5-71
NORTH CAROLINA (LEXINGTON-STYLE) Yields300 g
BARBECUE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cider vinegar 115g 100%
Distilled white vinegar 115g 100% CD Mix togeth e r in heavy- bottom pot.
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 70g 61% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to preve nt sticking, until
Maple syrup 30g
Sugar 9.5g 26% red uced to 300 g, about 10 min.
Ch ili flakes 7g 8.5%
Black pepper, ground 4.5g 6% ® Season sauce, a nd refrigerate until use.
Salt to taste 4%
from page 5·71
THICKENERS 219
HOUSE BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 120 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
50%
Ma lt vinegar 50g 50% CD Combine in pot.
0 Cook mixture over low heat until reduced to about 100 g.
White beefstock 50g 25%
15% ® Puree until smooth.
see page 6 13.5%
12 % 0 Pass sauce base through fin e sieve.
Maple syrup 25g 5%
5% ®Coo l.
Ye llow onion, finely diced 15g
Bourbon 13.5 g
Rend ered bacon fat 12g
Sherry vinegar 5g
Smoked Hungarian paprika 5g
pepper (or other dried,
smoked pepper), ground
Cayenne pepper, dried and 0.5g 0.5%
ground
0.5%
Yellow mustard powder 0.5g 0.1 %
Liquid hickory smoke 0.1 g 100%
(Lazy Kettle brand) 40%
Barbecue sauce, from above 100g 2% ®S hear into co ld sauce base until evenly distributed and smooth.
Tomato powder, freeze-dried 20g 0 Season sauce.
see page 157 (or store- bought)
Microcrystalline cellulose 1g
(Avice I CG 200, FMC
BioPolymer brand)
Salt to taste
Red wine vinegar to taste
from page 4·49
KANSAS CITY BARBECUE SAUCE Yields250 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 225g 17.8% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
17.8%
Tomato paste 40g 17.8% reduced to 250 g, about 20 min .
15%
Water 40g 2.2% ® Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
2.2%
White wine vinegar 40g
2%
Brown sugar 35 g 2%
1.8%
Black peppe r, ground 5g 1.8%
0.4%
Chili powder 5g 0.3%
(McCormick brand) 0.1%
Mustard powder 4.5g 0.05%
2.4%
Salt 4.5g
Cayenne pepper 4g
Green Thai chili, minced 4g
Garlic powder 1g
Onion powder 0.75g
Ginger, peeled and finely 0.25g
minced
Cumin powder 0.1 g
Lemon juice 5.5 g
Salt to taste
from page 5·68
220 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
MEMPHIS BARBECUE SAUCE Yie lds250 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Canned tomatoes 300g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Cid er vinegar 80g 27% 0 Simmer, st irring freq uently to prevent sticking, until
Lemon juice 40g 13%
Unsa lted butter 40g 13% re duced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Brown sugar 35 g 11.5%
Worcestershire sauce 30g 10% ® Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Chi li powder 2.5 g 0.85%
(McCorm ick brand)
Black pepper, ground 1.5 g 0.5%
Onion powder 1.5g 0.5%
Tabasco sauce 1g 0.3%
Mustard powder 0.75g 0.25%
Cayenne pepper 0.5g 0.15%
Salt to taste
Lemon juice to taste
from page 5·70
NORTH CAROLINA (EASTERN REGION) Yields250 g
BARBECUE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cider vinegar 200g 100%
Distilled white vinegar 200g 100% CD Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Maple syrup 30g 15. 5% 0 Simmer, stirri ng frequently to prevent sticking,
Chili fl akes lOg
Sugar 5g 5% until red uced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Black pepper, ground 3g 3%
Salt to taste 1. 5% ® Season sa uce, a nd refrigerate until use.
from page 5·70
EAST TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCE Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Ye llow onions, finely 135 g 169% CD Sweat onions until translucent an d tende r in heavy-
minced
Unsalted butter 40g 50% bottom pot, abo ut 7 min.
Garlic, finely minced 7g 9%
Distilled vinegar 80g 100% 0 Co mbin e.
Water 80g 100%
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 50g 62.5% ® Add to onion mixture.
Ancho chili paste 40g 50%
Worcestershire sauce 4g 5% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent stick ing, until
Chili powder 2g 2.5%
(McCormick brand) red uced to 200 g, abo ut 20 min.
Mustard powder 2g 2.5%
Bay leaf, crushed 0.15g 0.19% ® Season sauce, a nd refrigerate until use.
Cayenne pepper 0.5g 0.6%
Lemon juice 13.5 g 17%
Suga r 2g 2 .5%
Salt to taste
from page 5·69
THICKENERS 221
MUG HAL CURRY SAUCE Yi e lds450 g
Instead of soak ing the nuts and INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
seeds for12 h, you can a lternative ly Raw a lmond s 160g 80%
soften them in a pressure coo ker at Raw cashews 160g 80% CD Cover w ith water, and soak in refrigerator for12 h.
Poppy seeds 8g 4% 0 Drain, grind together to fine paste, and reserve .
a gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for
100% ® Cover with water, and soak in refrigerator for12 h.
45min. 15% @ Drain, grind to fine paste, and reserve.
3% ® Saute sha ll ots until translucent and lightly go lden.
Shallots, thinly sliced 200g 3%
Ghee 30g 2 .5% ® Comb in e aromat ics, and add to sha ll ots.
Garlic, grated 6g
Ginger, grated 6g 0 Saute until go lden, abo ut 5 min, and reserve.
Green Thai chili, 5g
fin e ly minced 2% ® Toast sp ices together in 170 ' C I 340 ' Foven unt il
Turmeric (fres h), grated 4g 1%
Nutmeg, grated 2g 0.3 % aromatic and go ld en, 10-15 min .
Bay leaf 0.25g 0.8% ® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grin der.
Mace blade 1.6 g 0 .5% @ Add to sauteed mixture.
Coriander seed 1g 0.25%
Black pepper 0.5g 0.25% @ Add ra isin s to sauteed mixture, and then add nut and
Cinnamon stick 0.5g 0.25% poppy seed pastes.
Clove 0.5g 0.25%
Cumin seeds 0.5g 0.05% @ Simmer for 25 min, and remove from heat.
Green cardamom seeds 0.1 g 12.5% @ Add to sa uce.
Ra isins 25g @ Season.
4% @ Coo l and refrigerate unt il use.
Plain yogurt 8g
Lim e juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·92
PEA VINE SALAD Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Pea vines, tips only 120g 30% CD Measure and reserve individually.
Pickled le mons, drained 36g
see page 179
Cinnamon basil leaves 15smal l
Lemon-infused olive oil 30g 25% 0 Whisk together to form vinaigrette.
8.3%
Ve rmouth vinegar lO g 4.2% ® Toss vin a igrette with reserved salad co mpo ne nts.
0.25%
Lime juice 5g ( 0 . 8 5 %)*
Microcrysta llin e 0 .3 g
cellulose (optional; Avice I
CG200, FMC Biopolymer
brand)
Black pepp er to taste @ Season sa lad .
*(% oftotal weight offirst three ingredientsfor vinaigrette)
Salt to taste
from page 5·275
222 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
MUSLIM CURRY SAUCE Yields350g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 110g 55% 0 Saute onions until translucent and lightly golden,
20%
Ghee 40g abo ut10 min.
see page 4·213
Garlic, grated 7g 3.5% 0 Add to onions, a nd saute until fragrant, about5 min.
3.5%
Ginger, grated 7g 1% ® Toa st in shallow pan in 170 oc I 340 °Foven until
Black peppercorns, 2g 1% a romatic and go ld e n, 10-15 min.
toasted and ground
0 Grind to fine powder in bl e nder or coffee grinder.
Cinnamon stick, 2g These curry sauces have a tradi-
toasted and ground tional texture. They stick to meat
better if you add 0.2% xanthan
Cumin seeds, 2g 1% gum, relative to th e tota l weight
toasted and ground ofthe sauce. Use a blender or
rotor-stator homoge nizer to blend
Green cardamom seeds, 2g 1% in the gum after the final step in the
toasted and ground recipe.
Mace blad e, 0 .8 g 0.4%
toasted and ground
Cane sugar 4g 2% ® Mix with ground spices and sauteed onion mixture.
0.4%
Nutmeg, grated 0.8g 100% ® Add to spiced onion mixture.
30%
Heavy cream 200g 8% 0 Simmerfor30 min, and remove from heat.
2%
Wate r 60g 0.4% ® Whisk into sauce.
Unsalted butter 16g ® Season.
@ Cool and refrige rate until use.
Lime juice 4g
Saffron threads 0 .8g
Rosewater to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·93
GREEN MANGO AND CASHEW SALAD Yields256 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green mango, fine lOOg
julienne 100% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
Cashews, roasted
Mint leaves, torn 30g 30%
Cilantro stems and 8g 8%
leaves, thinly sliced 4g 4%
Coconut water
(fresh or canned) 60g 60% 0 Blend together until smooth to make dressing, and reserve.
Fish sauce
Distilled vinegar 40g ® Toss green mango with reserved salad e lements, a nd dress to taste.
Lime juice 19 g 40%
Sugar 13g 19 %
Salt 8g 13%
Xanthangum 1g 8%
0.28g 1%
from page 5·169 0.28%
(0.2%)*
*(%total weight ofsix preceding ingredients)
THI CKENERS 223
GOAN CURRY SAUCE Yields2oog
The traditional way to toast spices INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
in Indi a n cuisine is in a dry skillet. Sweet onions, 120 g 100%
We prefer an oven for more thinly sliced CD Saute onions until translucent and golden, about
control, but even with this method, Ghee 3Sg 29%
you need to watch that you don't Tomato puree 60g 50% 10 min.
burn your spices. see page 55
Garlic, finely grated 7g 5.8% 0 Add to onions.
Curries are by no means exclusive Ginger, finely grated 7g 5 .8%
to India. Southeast Asia has its Black peppercorns Sg 4% ® Saute mixture for 5 min.
yellow, green, and red curries; Green cardamom seeds 4.2g 3.5%
there are a daptations from Iran to Turmeric, grated 4g 3.3% 0 Add to onion and tomato mixture, and saute until
Britain to japan. But they all share Fennel seeds 3.4 g 2.8%
the basics: meat, seafood, or just Coriander seeds 2.4 g 2% fragrant, aboutlO min.
loads of flavorful vegetables in a Cumin 2.4 g 2%
fragrant, spicy sauce, usually Yellow mustard seeds 2g 1.7% ® Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 oc I 340 °Foven
served with rice. Cane vinegar 40g 33%
Raw cane sugar 12g 10% until golden and aromatic, 10- 15 min .
Bay leaf O.Sg 0.4% @ Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste 0 Comb ine with sauce.
from page 5·95
® Simmerfor45 min.
® Season sauce.
@) Cool and refrigerate until use .
KERALA CURRY SAUCE Yields3sog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
85%
Shallots, finely minced 120g 25% CD Saute until shallots are translucent and golden, about
8.5%
Ghee 35 g 7% 10 min.
7%
Green Thai chili, minced 12g 3.5% 0 Add to shallot mixture, saute for 5 min, and reserve.
0.4%
Garlic, finely grated lOg 10% ® Mix together thoroughly.
2.8%
Ginger, finely grated lOg 2% 0 Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 oc I 340 °Foven
1%
Curry leaves Sg 0.7% until golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.
0.7% ® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
Bay leaf O.Sg 100% @ Add to shallot mixture, and saute until fragrant, about
Black peppercorns 14g 3min.
Cumin seeds 4g 0 Add to shallot mixture, and simmer for 45 min.
Green cardamom seeds 3g ® Season sauce.
® Cool and refrigerate until use.
Star anise 1.4 g
Cinnamon stick lg
Cloves 1g
Coconut milk 140g
Salt to taste
from page 5·96
224 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
MASALA CURRY SAUCE YieldsJoog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly 200g
sliced 80% CD Saute onions until amber and translucent, about 25 min.
Ghee JOg
Tomato puree 250g 12 % 0 Add to onions, a nd saute forl min.
see page 55 100%
Curry leaves 2.5g ® Reserve warm.
Coconut (fresh), grated 60g 1%
Garlic, finely grated lOg 24% 0 Grind together to fine paste.
Ginger, finely grated lOg 4%
Dried bird's eye chili, 3.5g 4% ® Add to onion and tomato mixture, a nd saute for 3 min.
crushed 1.4% ® Reserve warm.
fenugreek seeds 2.4g
Coriander seeds 2g 1% 0 Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 •c ; 340 •Foven until aromatic and go ld en, 10-15 min.
Fennel seeds 2g 0 .8%
0 .8% ® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
Water 160g ® Stir into warm onion a nd tomato mixture.
Tamarind paste 60g 64% @ Saute until aromatic.
see page 145 24% @ Add to mixture.
Turmeric (fresh), grated 9g @ Simmer for 45 min.
lime juice to taste
to taste 3 .6 %
Salt
from page 5·98 @ Season sauce.
@ Cool and refrigerate until use.
RED-EYE GRAVY Yields 75 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
16%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 80 g 6% CD Saute onions until tender and golden, aboutl5 min.
0 .04%
Re nd e red pork fat 30 g 0 Add to onions.
100%
Star anise 0.2 g ® Continue cooking over lower heat until onions are dark amber and star an ise is fragrant.
3%
Brown pork stock 500g 5% 0 Deglaze.
see page 6
15g 0.04% ® Reduce to 75 g, and remove gravy from heat.
Maple syrup (Grade B) 25g (0.27%)*
® Add to gravy, and cover.
Coffee beans
0 Infuse for 5 min.
Microcrystalline cellulose 0.2 g
(Avice! CC-200, FMC to taste ® Strain, discarding coffee beans.
Biopolymer brand) ® Blend into gravy to thicken.
Smoked salt @ Season and serve, or refrigerate until use.
*(%oftotal weight after reduction)
from page 5·102
THICKENER S 225
MilKS AND CREAMS ® Hydrate the thickeners. Soak or heat as indicated in the Procedure
column of the table.
0 Select a recipe. Some of our favorites appear in the table be low.
0 Sieve if needed to remove lumps. Nut and legume milks should be sieved
Proportions are relative to the main liqu id. For example, use 80 g of
tigernuts for every100 g of water to make chufa milk. after steeping.
0 Blend liquids with thickeners. Disso lve acidifiers or rennet in a sma ll
amount of water, milk, or cream before adding them to the liquid.
Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams
Recipe liquid (scaling) Thickeners (scaling) Procedure
almond milk water 100% almonds, finely ground 60% soak 24 h, and sieve
sweet almond o il 2% sugar 1%
clotted whole milk* 100% combine liquids, and pour in open container; steam
cream heavy cream 50%
nla or cook in 80 °CI176 oFbath for1 h undisturbed;
refrigerate 24 h; skim clotted cream from surface
chufa milk water 100% ch ufas (tigernuts) 80% soak 12 h, and sieve
buttermilk butter whey 100% lactic acid 0.4% season with salt to taste, and allow to rest overnight;
skyr adjust amount of heavy cream to taste
see page 4·286 20% lambda carrageenan 0.2%
100% live culture 1.0% heat mi lk to 82 °( I 180 °F, and cool to 42 oc I 108 oF;
heavy cream (Yogotherm brand)
low-fat milk 100% lactic acid 0.2% add culture and acid, pour into sanitized containers,
live culture (Yogotherm 1%
yogurt whole milk brand) and incubate at 45 oc I 113 oFfor 5 h; drain for 2 h
heat milk to 82 oc I 180 °F, and coo l to 42 oc 1 108 oF;
mascarpone heavy cream 100% ascorbic acid 0.2%
(or glucono de lta-lactone) add culture, pour into sanitized containers, and incu-
bate at 45 oc I 113 oFfor 8 h; drain 12 h for thick, Greek-
style texture; for firmer yogurt, scald milk at 85 oc I
125 oFfor 25 min, and cool before adding culture
combine, heat cream to 90 oc I 190 °F, cool for
30 min, wrap in cheesecloth, and hang, refrigerated,
for12 h
from page 4·56 *(whole milk used in clotted cream should be unhomogenizedfor best results)
LOW-FAT "CREAM" Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet whey powder 5g 2.5%
0.7g 0.35% 0 Dry blend.
Cellulose gum
(Cekol LV, CP Kelco brand) 0.2g 0 .1 % 0 Shear powder mixture into milk unti l fully hydrated .
Lambda carrageenan 100%
(Texturas brand) 200g ® Refrigerate.
Skim milk
from page 4·57
226 VO LUME 6 ·K I TC HE N MA NU AL
INSTANT CREME FRAICHE Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Heavy cream (free of 400g 100%
stabilizers or thickeners) 0 Heat heavy cream to 40 °CI 104 °F.
Lambda carrageenan 1.6 g 0.4% 0 Blend in carrageena n to fully hyd rate, and remove from heat.
Lactic acid 1.6g 0.4%
Water 8g 2% ® Dissolve lact ic ac id in water.
0 Stir lactic acid so lution into warm cream, and refrigerate for10 min before using.
® Pass through fine sieve, and refrigerate until needed.
from page 4 ·57
HERBED CHEESE SPREAD Yields 125 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Locust bean gum and lambda
100% carrageenan are often combined
Heavy cream 75 g 0 Dry blend lo cust bean gum a nd carrageena n. to create commercial cream cheese
33% 0 Disperse into cold milk and cream. in the United States.
(free of stabilizers or thickeners) 1.3%
(1%)* ® Bring mixture to boil while blending to hydrate.
Whole milk 25 g 0.27%
(0.2%)* 0 Remove from heat.
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 1g 40%
Powder, TIC Gums brand) ® Strain and cool.
7.5%
Lambda carrageenan 0.2 g
(Texturas brand)
Fresh goat cheese 30g ® Add to heavy cream mixture.
Garlic confit, pureed lOg 0 Blend together until homogenized to make spread base.
see pagel76
Chives, minced 3g ® Fold into cheese spread.
Parsley, minced 2g
Tarragon, thinly sliced 1g 4%
Lemon juice to taste 2.7%
Black pepper, cracked to taste 1.3%
to taste
Salt ® Season, and refrigerate until use.
from page 4 ·57
*(%oftotal weight offirst two ingredients)
SOY MILK QUANTITY SCALING Yieldsl kg
250g 100%
INGREDIENT 250g 100% PROCEDURE
Dried organic soy beans
Water 750g 300% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Water, co ld 0 Soak, refrigerated, until beans absorb a ll water, about14 h.
425g 170%
Water, boiling ® Remove from bag.
from page 4 ·58 0 Puree soaked soybeans in food processor.
® Add cold water.
® Blend for10 min until texture is creamy and grainy.
0 Pour into saucepan, and bring mixture to simmer.
® Add boiling water to soybeans; surface sho uld start to foam.
® Stir until foam subsides, about 20 min .
@ Strain mixture through fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and co ll ect soy milk.
@ Wrap mixture in cheesecloth.
@ Wring cloth tightly to extract all remaining soy milk.
@ Vacuum seal soy milk, and refrigerate.
TH I CKENERS 227
TOASTED RICE MILK Yields 1.5 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Arborio rice 50g 33%
0 Arrange dry rice in thin, even layer on baking sheet.
Water 1.5 kg 1, 0 0 0 % 0 Toast in 175 oc I 350 °Foven until evenly go lden, about 45 min.
Long grain rice 150g 100%
Fresh pan dan leaves 30g 20% ® Remove from oven.
(optional)
40% 0 Combine all rice an d 1 kg of water in pot.
Sugar 60g
from page 4 ·59 ® Soak rice for 3 hat room temperature.
® Add to rice and water, if using.
0 Simmer mixture for 30 min.
® Remove from heat.
® Add reserved 500 g of water, and puree coa rsely to release starch.
@) Strain through cheesecloth-lined fine sieve to extract 1.5 kg, about 1 h. To avo id
unwanted solids, do not press.
@ Whisk into ri ce milk until dissolved, and coo l.
TOASTED ALMOND MILK Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 750g 250%
Marcon a almonds, toasted 300 g 100% 0 Blend into coarse puree.
(or regular almonds, skinless) 0 Refrigerate for 24 h.
Sugar 15 g 5%
Sweet almond oil 15g 5% ® Blend chilled puree until smoot h.
Salt 9g 3%
Almond extract (optional) to taste 0 Strain through fine sieve to extract almond milk.
® Add sparingly to milk.
® Vacuum seal almond milk, and refrigerate until nee ded.
from page 4·59
HORCHATA (CHUFA MILK) Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chufas (tigernuts) 450g 100%
Water as needed 0 Cover nuts with fresh water.
56% 0 Soak nuts in refrigerator for 12 h.
Water 250g 4.4%
Sugar 20g 0.3% ® Drain nuts, and discard water.
Whey protein isolate 1.4g
(optional) 0 Combine with softened nuts.
from page 4·59 ® Blend to fine, smooth texture.
® Pass milk through fine sieve .
0 Vacuum seal milk, and refrigerate until needed .
LEMON STRIPS ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 50 g (50 strips)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Glycerin 3.75 g 1.67%
Lemon essential oil 2.55 g 1.13% 0 Blend together to make lemon water, and reserve.
Deionized water 225 g 100%
Maltodextrin DEB 7.95g 3.53 % 0 Dry blend.
Algin 400F (TIC Gums brand) B.5Bg 3.81 %
Viscarin TP 389 (FMC 3.18g 1.41 % ® Whisk slowly into lemon water until completely incorporated.
BioPolymer brand)
Aspartame 0.12g 0.05% 0 Vacuum seal or refrigerate for 8 h to remove trapped ai r bubbl es .
® Spread mixture onto acetate sheet using film applicator or improvised dowel with
a spacer to form very thin and eve n coating.
® Dry at room temperature for about 24 h.
0 Slice hardened film into 2 em by 3 em I :Y., in by 1',4 in strips.
® Peel off strips from sheet.
® Store in airtight co ntain er.
from page 4·61
228 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
EDIBlE FilMS
CD Select a texture and a corresponding film formula. The Best Bets for 0 Cast into a film onto a flat, level surface. Keep the liquid cold, so that it
Edible Films table below listsseve ral good options that range from tender is more viscous and coats the surface more easily. Films are typically cast
to brittle.
in a layer 0.5-1 mm I Y..-Y,, in thick; crisps and tuiles are usually thicker,
0 Mix thickeners into cold liquid to create a slurry. Quantities in the table 1.5-2 mm I Y,.-:Y,, in. For more on making films, see th e example recipes
are given relative to the weight of the liquid. For example, if you are on the next two pages.
making a clear, brittle tomato water film, use 10 g of Pure-Cote B790 for
every 100 g of tomato water. ® Dehydrate at the lowest humidity and temperature feasible. Dehydrating
® Hydrate fully. Times and temperatures are indicated in the table below. at 30 oc I 86 °Fis ideal. Slow, low-temperatures drying produces films
For step-by-step instructions, see page 4·26.
that have an even texture; films often crack when dried to quickly and
warp when exposed to humidity. The greater the degree of dehydration,
the less flexible and more brittle the film becomes. For more information
on dehydrating techniques, see page 2-428.
Best Bets for Edible Films
Hydrate
Texture Clarity Formula (sca ling)* (oC) (oF) (min) Example use
tender clear Methocel SGA 150** edible wrappers, paper coating films
0.75% refrigerated 8h
crisp 160 Bloom ge latin flavored cr isp s, delicate tuiles
sugar 0.75% 60 140 5
brittle HM pectin crispy cream cheese (see page 229)
opaque agar 15% 95 203 3 Grant Achatz's pineapple glass wrapper for
glycerin bacon powder (see page 187)
xanthan gum 2% seasoned glasses, fruit and vegetable glasses
clear low-acyl gellan
propylene glycol alginate 1.0% 95 203 3
160 Bloom gelatin
maltodextrin DE 8 1.2%
sugar or isomalt
opaque Methocel E4M ** 0.2%
clear Pure Cote B790
0.5% 95 203 3
opaque N-Zorbit M
glucose powder 0.5% 60 140 5
LM pectin
0.3%
15% cold
10%
1.25% refrigerated 8h
10% 100 212 15
20% cold 203 3
15.0% 95
1.5%
agar 0.6%
from page 4·60 *(set weight ofliquid to 700%); **(jor dispersal instructions, see page 424)
CRISPY CREAM CHEESE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 100g 50%
Methylcellulose E4M 6g 3% CD Bringwaterto boil.
(Dow brand) (2 %)* 0 Shear in methylcellulose, and simmer until completely dispersed, at least 3 min.
Cream cheese, 200g
at room temperature 100% ® Pour mixture onto cream cheese.
Salt 1.5 g
0 Add salt, and blend.
from page 4·63
0.75% ® Cool cream cheese mixture to 10 oc I 50 °F.
® Spread onto silicone mat in layer 2 mm I Y,6 in thick.
0 Dehydrate at 50 °CI 120 °Funtil crisp and brittle, 10- 12 h.
® Allow to coo l comp letely before using.
*(%oftotal weight ofwater and cream cheese)
THICKENERS 229
SPICED HONEY GLASS Yields365 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
180g 100%
Honey, spray-dri ed 0 Combine and heatto 160 ' CI 320 ' F, stirring constantly.
(store-bought) 180g 100%
45g 25% @ Pour onto 27.5 em by 40 em 1 11 in by 16 in silicone mat, and cool until hardened.
Trehalose or sugar
0 Break glass into shards, and grind to fine powder.
Water 0 Pass powder through fin e sieve onto baking sheet lin ed with sili cone mat, forming layer
1.5 mm I y,, in thick, and reserve.
Coria nder seeds, toasted 4 g 2% ® Crush spices together to make coarse powder.
1.5%
Sichuan peppercorns 2.5 g 1% ® Use fine sieve to remove fine particles.
0.8%
Fennel seeds 2g 0 Sprinkle coarse particles evenly over tray of sugar powder.
Black pepper, coarsely 1.5 g ® Bake in 150 ' C I 300 ' Foven until completely melted, about 6 min.
ground ® Cut into 2.5 em by 7.5 em I 1 in by 3 in pieces while sti ll hot and pliable.
@ Store in coo l, dry place.
from page 5·123
DRIED CHERRY AND HAZELNUT NOUGATINE Yields240 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar SOg 100%
Trehalose (or isomalt) 50g 100% 0 Heat together to 150 'C I 300 ' Fto make syrup.
Glucose syrup DE 40 25 g 50%
Water 20g 40% @ Whisk into syrup, and heat mixture to 170 ' C I 340 ' F.
Hazelnut butter SOg 100%
Unsalted butter lOg 20% 0 Fold remaining ingredients into mixture.
Dried sour cherries, 20g 40% 0 Pour onto si li con e mat. Cover with second sili cone mat, and roll mixture out into layer1 mm I
minced
Hazelnuts, peeled and 15g 30% y,, in thick.
minced
Salt 2.2g 4.4% ® Cool until britt le, break into irregular shards, and serve, or store in coo l, dry place.
Baking powder l.Sg 3%
from page 5·270
EDIBLE WRAPPERS ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 130 g (65 wrappers)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 400g 100%
200 Bloom gelatin 6g 1.5% 0 Combine to bloom gelatin.
Glycerin 0.2g 0.05%
@ Heat solution; whisk constantly to dissolve gelatin.
0 Transfer 6 g of solution to 9 em I 3Y2in diameter petri dish with pipette.
0 Swirl solution to coat dish bottom even ly and elim inate air bubbles.
® Rep eat with remaining solution in individual petri dishes, one for each wrapper.
® Rest in warm place until resu lting films are comp lete ly dry, 20 - 24 h.
0 Peel off wrappers, and store in airtight conta in er.
from page 4 ·62
230 VOLUME 6 ·K I TCH EN MANUAL
ONION ARLETTE YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Sweet onion juice 300g 0 Combine, and cook at 155 ' C I 310 ' F, until light golden caramel forms.
(from about 43 .3% 0 Pour hot onion syrup onto silicone mat.
500 g onions) 0 Cool and harden at room temperature, about 20 min.
0 Grind to fine powder, and reserve resu lting onion sugar.
Trehalose (or isomalt or 130g
sugar)
Glucose syrup DE 40 70g 23.3%
167%
Puff pastry dough SOOg ® Roll out dough in rectangle 0.5 em I V. in thick.
(store-bought or SO%
fresh-made) ® Cut dough into five progressively sma ll e r rectangles.
Clarified unsalted butter, 150 g 0 Stack in laye rs, brushing with butter an d dusting with thin coat of onion sugar between each
melted
layer.
® Fold and roll dough into cylinder, and then pinch top to give dough a bulb shape.
® Freeze until very hard , about 45 min.
@ Cut dough with meat sli cer into slices 1 mm I ){6 in thick.
® Place sli ces between two silicone mats, and pass rolling pin over top until slices a re nearly
translucent; they should retain their shape.
@ Dust flattened sli ces with more onion sugar to fully coat surfaces.
@ Transfer to si li cone mat- lined baking sheet.
@ Bake in 170 ' C I 340 ' Foven for 7 min.
@ Dust with additional on ion sugar, and bake at same te mperature for 2-3 min.
@ Coo l, and reserve in cool, dry place.
from page 5·262
BBQ CARAMELS Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE You can substitute our House
SOOg 286% Barbecue sauce (see page 220) or
KC Masterpiece honey 0 Reduce sauce over low heat to 250 g. one of the regional sauces (see
barbecue sauce 100% 0 Reserve. page 5·66).
0 Blend.
Sugar 175g For the texture of the carame l to be
correct, the sugar content shou ld be
Salt lOg 5.7% 88 °Brix as measured on a refracto-
meter. Extend the cooking time as
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon HV, 4.7g 2.7% needed to reach the correct Brix
Obipektin brand) {0.53%) * leve l.
Glucose syrup DE40 17Sg 100% 0 Combine w ith sugar mixture in pot.
100% ® Heat to 145 °CI 293 °F.
Water 175 g
Unsalted butter, cubed 110g 63% ® Stir into reduced barbecue sauce to form
caramel base.
0 Heat to 135 °C I 275 °F, a nd remove from heat.
Liquid hickory smoke Sg 3% ® Stir into caramel base quickly while base is still
(lazy Kettle brand) hot.
® Pour in to mold 1.5 em I% in thick.
@ Refrigerate until so lidifi ed.
® Cut ca rame l sheet with scissors into desired
shapes.
Edible wrappers, from above as needed @ Wrap carame ls individu a ll y.
from page 4·62
@ Store in cool, dry place.
*(% oftotal weight ofreduced honey barbecue sauce, sugar, g lucose,
water, and unsalted butter)
THIC KENER S 2 31
COOKED WHOLE EGGS (oc) Cook (min) Equipment See page
55 (oF) 2h water bath 1-190
Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs 62- 68 131 35 water bath 4 ·76
100 144 - 154 3 water baths and 4·79
Recipe 64 212 35 blowtorch 4·76
pasteurized egg 79 147 35 water bath
onsen egg (Japanese slow-cooked egg) 75 174 13 water bath 232
perfect soft-bo iled egg 167
water bath
perfect hard-boiled egg 70 158 7
fast hot-spring egg water bath
adapted from Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot 85 185 12
fast hot-spring quail egg
adapted from Ferran Adria
Arzak egg blossom
from page 4·78
LIQUID CENTER DUCK EGG Yields340 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Duck eggs (s he ll ed) 100%
320g 0 Imm erse eggs in boiling waterfor 4 min.
(four eggs) 0 Cool in ice-water bath for 20 min.
® Cook in 62 oc I 143 °Fbath for about 30 min.
The egg white needs more heat Red beet juice 800g 250% 0 Coo l aga in in ice-water bath.
to coagulate than the yo lk does, Red port wine 350 g 109%
so first use boi li ng water to set the ® Crack eggshe lls gently a ll over with back of spoon,
wh ite firmly e nough that it can Flaky sea sa lt to taste 20% but do not remove she lls.
be peeled later. Then use a low 65g
temperature water bath to cook the Constructed red wine ® Reserve.
center. If substitut ing ch icke n eggs, glaze, warmed
w hi ch usua ll y are smalle r than duck 0 Comb in e, reduce to 750 g, and coo l.
eggs, you may need to reduce the see page24
® Imm erse eggs in reduction , and soak in refrigerator
initi a l boiling time to 3-3Y2 min. from page 5·220 forl2 h.
® Drain, and then gently peel off eggs he lls.
@ Reheat eggs in 62 oc I 143 °Fbath for about 25 min.
@ Season.
@ Garnish w ith glaze.
EGG BLOSSOM I NSP IR ED BY J UAN MARl ARZAK Yields four eggs
Add 2 min to the cook ing time INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
if using duck eggs. Whole eggs four large
Duck fat 50g 100% 0 Line sma ll bowl with plastic wrap.
This recipe uses a single step of Extra-virgin olive oil 25g 50% 0 Comb in e fats, a nd brush ce nter of plastic wrap.
12 min in an 85 oc 1 185 °Fbath, but Truffle oil lOg 20%
yo u cou ld a lso cook the eggs in a Salt to taste ® Break one egg in center of bowl.
two-stage manner (as w hen making
soft-boi led eggs as described on 0 Season w ith sa lt and additiona l fat.
the previous page): boil them
for l -3 min, and the n cook in a ® Gather edges of plastic wrap togethe r ca refu lly.
40-64 °C I 104-147 °Fwater bath. ® Twist wrapped mixture into ball, a nd tie off top of
wrap.
0 Repeat procedure with remaining eggs.
® Cook eggs in 85 °C I 185 °Fwater bath for12 min.
® Cut away plastic wrap to se rve.
from page 4·80
232 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
DEVILED EGGS QUANTITY SCALING Yields four portions
100%
INGREDIENT 200g PROCEDURE
Whole eggs, in shell (four large) 72 .5%
CD Cook in 72 ' C / 162 ' Fbath for 35 min.
Reserved egg whites, from 145g 0 Plunge in ice water. At 72 ' C / 162 ' F, the yo lk sets hard
above e nough that it remains sp herica l
Champagne vi negar 25g ® Peel, and separate yo lks from whites. rather than flattening from its own
Dijon mustard lOg @ Set yo lks as id e. weight-as it does at lower temper-
Extra-virgin olive o il 100 g ® Retain whites for mayonnaise. atures (see page 4·76). Th ese yo lk
Walnut oil 20g ® Blend. balls have a wo nd erfu l consistency.
They can be used as a kind of
12.5% dumpling in soups or other dishes.
5%
Tarragon, thinly sli ced 4g 50% 0 Drizzle slow ly into egg wh ite mixture w hil e
10%
Black pepper, coarse ly ground to taste 2% blending.
Cayenne pepper to taste 10 % ® Emulsify fu ll y to make mayonnaise.
Salt to taste ® Fold in.
@ Season mayonnaise.
Bottarga di Muggine 20 g @ Smear on each plate, and garnish each plate with
(store -bou g ht)
one yolk.
@ Grate finely ove r each plate.
from page 4·81
CUSTARDS
The perfect custa rd temperature depends on three things: whether you use Note that "milk," "qu iche," and other terms in the table below refer to the
yolks or whole eggs; the proportion of egg to other li quid; a nd the fin a l co re resulting texture, not to ingre di e nts or a specific recipe.
temperature. Using the table below, you ca n ac hi eve a ny res ult you want.
Custard Textures
Whole lk
Cook (' C) 70 75 80 83 88 70 75 80 83 88
(' F) 158 167 176 181 190 158 167 176 181 190
Egg milk heavy thin creme
(scaling) * milk thin cream
10%
30% milk
50% milk
70% milk
90%
110% half-and-
half
130%
150%
200%
250%
from page 4·84 *(set weight ofliquid to 100%)
GEl S 233
PRESERVED AND PICKLED EGGS ® Submerge very fresh whole eggs in brine or cure, and refrigerate
for the time indicated. Note that a ll of the recipes here, except the
CD Select a recipe. See the table Best Bets for Pickled a nd Preserved Eggs vinegar-coagul ated egg, requ ire that th e eggs remain in the she ll
when immersed in brine.
below for suggest ions.
@ Cook (optional). For a more familiar texture, light ly cook th e cu red eggs,
0 Make the brine or curing agent. Prepare enough to complete ly cover al l using the time and temperature indi cated in the table.
eggs. Weights in the table a re sca led to be proporti ona l to the weight of
th e principa l liquid. For exa mpl e, to make a dozen ce ntury eggs, weigh
out e nou gh water to cover the eggs comp lete ly, and then add 9 g of sa lt
a nd 4.2 g of sodium hydroxid e for every 100 g of water.
Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs
Recipe Coagulant (sca ling) Brine/ cure (days) Cook (optional) See page
century egg water 100% (oc) (oF) (m in) below
sa lt 9% b r in e 20 68 154 35
salt-coagulated egg sod ium hyd roxid e (l ye) 4.2% soak 2
vinegar-coagulated egg water 100% dry 5
miso-cured egg yolks salt 32%
vinegar 100% brine 28 68 154 35
from page 4·82 red miso 100%
sa ke 18.5% brine Y2-1 62 144 20 below
sugar 16% cure 3 n/ a 236
CENTURY EGG Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 1 kg 100%
Salt 90 g 9% CD Whisk together until fu ll y dissolved to make brine.
Sodium hydroxid e (lye) 42g 4.2%
Whole duck eggs, 450 g 45% 0 Vacuum sea l eggs w ith brine.
washed and checked for (a bout six)
cracks ® Refrigerate in bag for 20 d.
@ Remove from bag, and soak in fresh water for 2 d.
from page 4·83 ® Air-dry at room temperature for 5 d.
® Optionally, cook in 68 oc / 154 °Fbath for 35 min. Cool and peel.
0 If des ire d, garn ish with pi c kled mushroom s and seaweed vin ega r.
PICKLED QUAIL EGGS I NSPIRED BY HERVE THIS Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Quail eggs 200g
(aboutlO) 100% CD Crack open; reserve whole quail eggs individu a lly.
Champagne vinegar 500g
Water 250g 250% 0 Combine to make brine, a nd bring to simmer.
Sugar 135 g 125%
Salt 8g 67.5 % ®Combine.
Black peppercorns 1g 4% @ Pour hot brine over spice mixture, and coo l.
White peppercorns 1g 0.5% ®Strain cold brine into large so us vide bag.
Pink peppercorns 0.5g 0 .5% ® Slide eggs gently, one by one, into brine-filled bag, while taking care to avoid co lli sions
Yellow mustard seeds 1g 0.25%
Ce lery seeds 1g 0.5% that cou ld burst their yolks.
Dill seeds 1g 0.5%
Aleppo pepper flakes 0 .1g 0.5% 0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 12 h.
from page 4·83 0.05%
® Dra in eggs, and cook in 62 oc / 144 °Fbath for 15 min.
234 VO LUM E 6 · KITC HE N MANUAL
SEPARATED EGG GELS
CD Select a texture. The table below lists our recommendations. ® Blend eggs with liquid, and whisk in seasoning. Eggs for the two-stage
0 Measure the yolk, white, liquid, and sa lt. Scale the ingredients relative to fried egg shou ld just be separated. For the two-stage baked eggs, blend
the whites with the cream and keep the yolks whole.
the weight of the eggs (for examp le, use 2 g of salt for every 100 g of egg
yolk in a sliceable yo lk). 0 Cook. Appropriate methods, times, and temperatures are indicated,
along with references to example recipes.
Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels
Egg yolk Egg white Salt Cook See
(sca ling) (' C) page
Texture (scaling) (scaling) liquid (scal ing) 5.5% Method 80 (' F) (min) below
so us vide 176 12 236
creme anglaise 100% nl a milk or 400% 1.1% 238
cream 171 2 237
egg yolk droplets 100% nl a nl a open container in 77 158 1h 236
so us vide bath 174 35
sliceable yolk 100% nla nl a 2% so us vide 70 2
creme brUiee 100% nl a cream 200% 5% 79 181 15
milk 175% steam oven
cream 110% 3.5% 165 3
egg white custard nl a 100% milk 110% steam oven 83 165 30
1.1% 147 20
egg white droplets nl a 100% nl a 1.4% stove top 74 174 15
two-stage baked eggs white 100% cream 35% to taste steam oven 74 145 25
yolk 1 per serving to taste 64
Nathan's two-stage white 1 per servin g nl a buttered ring 79
fried egg yolk 1 per serving nl a mold, steam oven 63
from page 4·85
CAULIFLOWER CREME ANGLAISE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cauliflower, thinly sliced 400g 160%
CD Roast in 160 ' CI 320 ' Foven until deep amber, about 25-30 min. Alternatively, deep-fry
Whole milk 500g 200% in 190 ' CI 375 ' Foil for 5-6 min.
Cauliflower milk, from above 250 g 100% 0 Cool completely.
25%
Egg yolks 63 g ® Vacuum seal with roasted cau liflower.
Nutmeg, freshly grated to taste 0 Cook in BS ' CI185 ' Fbath forl h to infuse milk.
Salt to taste
® Remove from bag, and strain.
from page 4·89
® Measure 250 g of cau liflower milk.
0 Cool milk to room temperature.
® Blend together until smooth, and vacuum seal.
® Cook so us vide in 80 ' CI 176 ' Fbath for 35 min.
@ Remove from bag, and cool.
@ Add additional cauliflower milk or heavy cream to achieve desired viscosity.
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate.
@ To serve, reheat creme anglaise in 70 ' CI 158 ' Fbath for 10 min.
@ Pour into serving container.
@ Season.
GEL S 235
EGGS BENEDICT INSPIRED BY PEDRO SUBIJANA AND GRANT ACHATZ Yi eld s 610 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolks 150g 100%
Salt 3g 2% CD Whisk yo lks together w ith sa lt, and stra in through fine sieve.
Egg whites 150g 100% 0 Transfer to squeeze bottle.
Salt 3g 2% 0 Whisk w hites together with sa lt, and stra in through fin e sieve.
Clarified butter 750g 500% 0 Transfer to second squeeze bottle.
see page 4·213
® Divide butter even ly amo ng two sma ll pots.
® Heat one potto 72 oc 1 162 °Fand second pot to 90 oc 1 194 °F.
0 Squeeze droplets of yo lk mixture into 72 oc I 162 °Fbath; keep drops sepa rated.
® Cook for1 min.
® lift drops slightly from pot botto m with small spatula to help them float.
@ Remove droplets w hen they begin to float, rese rving butter. Reserve warm.
@ Repeat procedure to make egg white droplets in 90 oc l 194 °Fbath.
@ Reserve warm.
English muffins, ground 100 g 67% @ Comb in e in nonstick pan .
Neutral oil 20 g 13 .4% @ Fry unti l gold en, abo ut 5 min, and drain .
to taste ® Season toasted crumbs.
Salt 150 g 100% @ Heat in 62 oc/144 °Fbath for at least 10 min.
So us vide instant hollandaise 30%
see page305 45 g @ Warm with spoonfu l of reserved butter.
Canadian bacon, fin ely diced @ Fold into egg yo lk droplets, egg white droplets, an d toasted crumbs.
@ Portion egg, bacon, and crumb comb in ation in small bowls.
@ Garn ish with sma ll amoun t of ho ll anda ise .
from page 4·86
MISO-CURED EGG SHEETS Yi elds 60 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red miso 75g 75%
Sake 14g 14% CD Comb ine.
Sugar 12g 12% 0 Line sma ll bowl w ith cheesecloth,
Cu re the yo lks for 48 h on each side Egg yo lks, whole 100g 100% or use si li co ne hemispherical mo ld .
(96 h total) for a softer, more pliable
texture. 0 Spread mixture in prepared bowl or mo ld to
The cured egg yo lk sheets ca n be form well shape.
coo ked in a 70 oc I 158 °Fbath for a 0 Place yo lk s, ind ividually and intact, in center of
more fl ex ib le texture. we ll, and cover w ith remaining miso mixture.
® Refrigerate for48 h to cure. Fl ip yolks ove r, and
refrigerate again for 72 h.
® Remove yo lks from cure.
0 Roll between two thin sili cone mats or two
p ieces of plastic wrap to form sheets 1 mm I y, in
thick.
® Dry at room temperature for15 min to firm.
® Use egg sheets for ravioli, or cut into nood les an d
dress w ith bonito flakes and ol ive o il.
from page 4·87
236 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHE N MANUAL
PARMESAN CREME BRULEE Yields 450 g (about eight portions)
INGRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Heavy cream 350 g 140%
Parmesan, finely grated BOg 32% 0 Bring cream and cheese to simmer.
Cheese-infused cream, 250g 100% 0 Stra in, an d reserve 250 g of infused cream.
from above
Egg yo lks 67.5 g 27% ® Blend together.
Salt 1.32g 0.5%
@ Divide mixture evenly among ind ividua l ramek ins.
Muscat grape syrup or onion 40 g 16%
sugar ® Cover ram e kins with p lastic wrap.
see page 213 or page 231
® Cook in 78 ' CI 172 ' Fbath or steam oven to core te mperature of77 ' C I 171 ' F, about
from page 4·88
35min.
0 Refrigerate until cool, about45 min .
® Pour syrup over each creme brulee to serve. Alternatively, dust onion sugar over surface
of custards, and flash w ith blowtorch until ca ram e lize d .
Sweet creme brul ee can be made with For a lighter custard, substitute mi lk for
th e same basic rec ipe. Omit the cheese, part of the heavy cream. A typical ratio
add 15%-2 0 % sugar, and cook in a wou ld be ha lf milk, ha lf cream.
82 ' CI 180 ' Fbath to a core temperature
of81 ' CI 178 ' F.
SAUCE ALLEMANDE Yields370 g Thi s is a slightly Modern ist version
of a French haute cuisine classic
INGRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE perfected by Auguste Escoffier in
200% the early 20th century. We think he
White chicken stock 120g 0 Blend unti l smooth. wou ld a pprove. The savory custard
see page 6 167% 0 Pass through fin e sieve. base ca n be flavored w ith other
100% stocks or juices.
Heavy cream 100 g (20%)* ® Vacuum seal.
83%
Egg yolks, b lended and sieved 60 g @ Cook so us vide in 79 ' C I 174 ' Fbath for 35 min.
Mushroom jus 50g ® Blend unti l smooth once more.
see page 37
Unsalted butter, melted 40g 67%
Nutmeg, freshly grated to taste ® Season.
Salt to taste
White pepper to taste 0 Serve w ith poach e d a rtichokes (see page 3·292)
from page 4·88
and bra ised chicken thighs (see page 3·99).
*(% oftotal weight ofall other ingredients)
GE LS 237
EGG SALAD SANDWICH INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolks, blended 200g 100%
CD Make sleeves measuring 2.5 em by 30.5 em I 1 in by 12 in from so us vide bags by using
Egg yolks 50g 25%
Lemon juice 15 g 7.5% sealing strips of vacuum sealer.
Champagne vinegar 1g 0 .5%
Neutral oil 200g 100% 0 Pipe yolks into sleeves, and tie tops of sleeves tightly to make tube shapes.
30g 15%
Salted pollock roe lOg 5% ® Clip tubes to top of bath.
(store-bought) 3g 1.5%
Cornichons, minced 2g 1% 0 Cook in 70 °Ci l58 °Fbath forl h.
Salt lg 0.5% ® Remove yolks from sleeves, and cool comp letely.
Chives, finely minced 150 g 75% ® Cut yolks into sli ces 2 mm I Yl • in thick.
Sriracha sauce 0 Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Pain de mie or white bread, as needed
crusts removed and sliced ® Blend until smooth .
to taste
5 mm l'li• in thick to taste ® Drizzle slowly into yolk mixture, whi le blending, until fully emulsified.
40g @) Set aside mayonnaise.
Clarified butter, melted @ Combine.
see page 4·213 @ Fold into mayonnaise.
@ Set mixture aside.
Black pepper
Flaky sea salt @ Cut bread into sandwich-size sli ces.
Watercress leaves ® Brush outside of slices with clarified butter.
® Toast carefu lly in pan until go ld en, about 1 min on each side.
from page 4·90 ® Spread inside of each sli ce with mayonnaise.
@ Arrange egg yolks on one slice of bread.
@ Season each yolk-covered slice.
20% @) Garnish with leaves.
@ Top each with second slice of toasted bread to comp lete sandw ich.
Wylie Dufresne came up with these molded egg yolk tubes to serve with
his version of Eggs Benedict, which a lso involves Deep-Fried Hollandaise
(see page 305) and crispy Canadian bacon. We've used them to make this
delicious egg sandwich to show how versatile a preparation they can be.
238 VO LUM E 6 · KI TC HEN MA NU AL
BLENDED EGG GEL
0 Measure yolks, whites, liquid ingredients, and seasonings. Use ® Vacuum seal if cooking so us vide (optional).
the weight of egg whites as 100%, and measure other ingredients 0 Cook. See the table below for recommended final core temperatures.
proportionally-for instance, use 60 g of yolk and 10 g of cream for each
100 g of white in an omelet, and so on. The time required wil l vary depending on the thickness of the layer of egg
mixture and ofthe cooking vessel.
0 Blend all ingredients thoroughly.
Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels
Eggyolk Eggwhite Other Cook
(scaling) ingredients
Recipe (scaling) (sca lin g) Liquid (sca lin g) Method (°C) (°F) See page
American scrambled eggs 70% 100% whole milk 10% salt 1.8% water bath 70 158
French scrambled eggs 110% 100% whole milk 45% salt 3% water bath 72 162 next
45%
unsalted butter,
melted
omelet 60% 100% heavy cream 10% sa lt 2% steam oven 82 180 next
savory flan (creme 50% 100% whole milk 300% salt 2% steam oven 83 181 244
caramel) or water bath
chawanmushi 50% 100% mirin 3% salt 2% steam oven 82 180 242
hon dashi
(savory Japanese custard) see page 15 210% Activa RM 1% or water bath
whole milk
royale custard 400% 100% heavy cream 600% flavorful puree, 800% steam oven 80 176 241
300% juice, or stock or water bath
frittata* 50% 100% whole milk 50% Taleggio 25% steam oven 80 176
quiche filling* o live oil 15%
cheese, grated
sa lt 3%
50% 100% bacon-infused 190% salt 3% steam oven 80 176
heavy cream
see page 2·310
from page 4·92 *(many different flavors can be adapted to these recipes)
BOUDIN NOIR CUSTARD Yields95og
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE For more on the steps involved in proper
Yellow onions, 100g 22% dispersion and hydration of gelatin, see page
thinly sliced 0 Saute onions until translucent. 4·124. For more on strategies for clarifying juice,
Rendered bacon fat 20 g 4.4% see page 2-352.
Whole milk, co ld 200g 44% 0 Cool.
160 Bloom gelatin 19 g 4 .2%
450g 100% ® Disperse gelatin into milk.
Heavy cream BOg 18%
Egg yolks 60g 13% 0 Warm until gelatin is fully dissolved.
Pigeon blood (fresh) 14g 3%
Salt 4g 0.9% ® Combine with onions and milk.
Dutch-processed cocoa
powder 4g 0.9% 0 Blend until smooth.
Quatre ep ices 0 Strain through fine sieve.
seepage48
from page 5·127 ® Vacuum seal.
® Cook so us vide in 70 oc I 158 °Fbath for1 h.
@ Cool in ice-water bath.
® Refrigerate.
GELS 239
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Volume 6 - Kitchen Manual
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