SPHERIFICATION
<D Select a spherifi cat ion method fro m the table Best Bets for Spherification ® Prepa re th e setting bath. Stir the setting agen t into clean water, and allow
below. To gel a liquid that naturally co ntain s calc ium, we recomme nd 1 h for it to dissolve fully. Optionally, add suga r syrup (up to 22% sugar
usin g reverse sph erifi cation, described in the variation below. co nce ntrat ion) or corn syrup to the bath so th at its density matches that
of th e liquid to be gel led. Thi s prevents the droplets from fa lling to the
0 Sca le and mix the gelling agents. Weigh th e ingredients re lative to bottom of the setting bath.
the amount of liquid you will be ge lling. For exa mpl e, when making 0 Introduce drops of gelling so luti on into the bath. A common tech-
cranb erry ge l spheres, ad d 2 g of iota ca rragee nan for every 100 g of
cra nb erry jui ce. nique when making large spheres is to slide tab lespoonfu ls of gelling
fluid gently into t he bath water. A peristaltic p ump (see page 4·139) can
® Disperse the gelling so lution. Add sequestrants as nee ded (see be set up to drip the droplets co ntinu ous ly. If you are making small
page 4·129). sph eres, use a syringe to dispense th e so luti on. Allow t he skin to form for
1- 3 min; beads w ill grow increasingly firm as th ey soak .
@) Hyd rate fully. See the tab le of hydroco lloid properties on page 4 ·42 for
hydration tim es and temperatures. ® Rinse the spheres w ith clear water. Rins ing slows the gel ling process and
® Vacuum sea l (optio nal), and chi ll for 2 h. Vacuum sea ling removes air washes away any lingering flavors from the setting solution. Rinse the
from the so lution an d helps prevent bubbles from altering the shape and sp heres at least tw ice. Remove with a perforated spoon . Option-
texture of the spheres as they form.
all y, heat to 85 ' C I 185 ' Ffor10 min to stop further so lidifi cat ion. Store
the sphe res in water or oil until need ed.
Best Bets for Spherification
Method For the (sca lin g)* For the (sca lin g)* Note See page
sphere base 1% setting bath 0.5%
0 . 2 % - 0 .5% xanthan gum thickens liquid and yield s next
alginate (direct) sod ium alginate 1% ca lcium ch lor id e more eve n orbs
0 . 2 % - 0 .5%
xa nth an gum (o ption al) 3% calc iu m glu conate
0.2%- 0 .5%
sodium alginate sodium algin ate 2.5% see note above
2% sodium citrate
xa nth an gum (optional) (optional)
0.2% potassium
alginate (reverse) ca lcium lactate 0.1% phosphate 0.5% see note above next
calcium gluconate 1.2%
xanthan gum (optional) lactic acid 5% use sodium cit rate when liquid is acidic or
high in calcium
carrageenan iota carrageen an 6%
(direct) 0 .1 % hydrate carragee nan co ld for at
low-acyl gellan least 5 h; ca n also be made reverse
gellan (direct) sodium 2%
hexametap hosp hate best made w it h low acid, moderate
ca lcium liquid s; make frozen hemispheres
LM pectin ca lcium lactate 5% LM pectin 293
(reverse) *(setweight ofliquidto 100%) and set in 80 ' C I 176 ' Fca lcium bath; ca n
from page 4·1 87 also be made reverse
can also be made direct
VARIATION: SUSPENDING A SOLID VARIATION: REVERSE SPHERIFICATION
IN A GELLED SPHERE
<D In reverse spherificatio n, the ed ibl e liquid is m ixed w ith calcium lactate
<D Follow steps 1- 6 above. If you are using reverse spherification, see the or another sa lt, and the gelling agent (such as algin ate) is dispersed into
va ri at ion at right. the bath.
(!) Add a sol id to t he center of the li quid or puree. The so li d mu st be fu ll y 0 When the ed ibl e liquid enters the bath, a sk in of gel forms around it,
encased in t he so lution; if any part protrudes, an intact membrane will
not form aro und th e sp here. Conti nu e with step 7 above for direct encaps ul atin g the liquid. Un like direct spherification, the edib le liquid
spherification, or see at right for reverse spherifi cation. itself does not set, altho ugh the skin does grow in creas ingly firm the
longer the bead remai ns in the bath. Add ing xanthan gum to the liquid
thi ckens it and yield s smoother spheres. Because the bath co ntains no
sa lts, it is not necessary to rinse the beads .
2 90 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHEN M ANUAL
CARBONATED MOJITO SPHERES ADAPTED FROM JOSE ANDRES Yields 480 g (about 40 spheres)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, d istilled 450g 86%
lim e juice 120g 34.5% CD Blend until comp lete ly dissolved.
Sugar 120 g 34 .5%
Mint leaves, juli enn e 80g 23% 0 Bl end into jui ce mixture.
Lim e zest, grated 12 g 3.4%
® Steep, refrigerated, for 1 h.
lime juice mixture, 350g 100% @ Strain, and reserve 350 g of juice solution to make sp heres. Reserve remainder to
from above
White rum store sp heres.
Calcium lactate ® Blend with reserved jui ce so lution unti l in corpo rated .
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand) 130g 37%
Ascorbic acid 6.7 g 1. 9%
Sodium alginate 1. 7 g 0.5%
(Algin, Texturas brand)
Water 0.3g 0 . 0 8% ® Blend water and sod iu m algin ate until comp letely dissolved.
Sg 1.43%
lime zest, finely grated 1 kg 0 Refrigerate bath for 1 h.
286%
from page 4·188 to taste ® Fill two w hipping sipho ns w ith 100 g each of reserved juice mixture.
® Fill tablespoon w ith mixture, tip gently into algin ate bath, and release contents.
@ Set for 7 min; skin will form.
@ Remove from bath with perforated spoo n, and rin se sphere tw ice in fresh water.
@ Place sphere gently into whipping siph on containingjuice mixture.
@ Repeat procedure with remaining mixture; fill each siphon on ly half full with sp heres.
@ Vent head space with one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and then charge each siphon with
two cartridges of ca rbon dioxide at least 5 h before serving. Refrigerate siphons to
carbonate sp heres .
@ Remove sp heres from whipping sipho ns w ith perforated spoon, and place in cockta il s.
@ Garnish.
MELON CAVIAR ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR I A Yie ld s250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sodium alginate (A lgin, 2g 0.8%
Texturas brand) 250 g 100% CD Combine sodium alginate w ith 50 g of melon juice.
Melon juice 0 Bl end until dissolved.
SOOg 200%
see page 2·336 2 .5 g 1% ® Mix in remaining melon jui ce.
@ Strain.
Water ® Vacuum sea l; remove excess air.
Calcium chloride ® Blend calci um chloride in water until dissolved.
from page 4·189 0 Set up three baths: one filled with calc iu m ch loride solut ion to set spheres, two filled w ith
co ld wate r to rinse spheres.
® Fill sy ringes or droplet maker with melon jui ce mixture.
® Expe l droplets one at a tim e into ca lcium chl oride bath.
@ Remove each droplet from bath after 1 min.
@ Strain melon caviar.
@ Rins e caviar twice in co ld water baths.
GElS 2 91
"POACHED" EGG Yields five "eggs"
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the setting bath:
Water 2 kg 333% CD Whisk together.
Sodium alginate lOg 1.7% 0 Vacuum sea l to remove excess air, and refrigerate for 2 h.
(TICA-algin 400 Powder,
TIC Gums brand) 4g 0.7% ® Sift together.
For the egg-yolk base: 3g 0.5%
Calcium lactate 2g 0.3% 0 Blend into calcium lactate mixture, ta king care to incorporate as littl e air as possible.
Sugar 150 g 25%
Salt 50g 8.5% ® Dispense with sauce gun into 2 em I :Y. in hem isph ere molds. Freeze.
Egg yolks, pasteurized
see page 232 100% @ Heat sodium algin ate so lution until fluid is 60-65 oc l 140- 149 °F.
Rendered bacon fat 16.5%
0.7% 0 Remove from heat, and carefull y drop in frozen hemispheres.
For the "coo ked" egg-white base: 0.07%
® Leave for 2 min, turn sp heres ove r, and leave for 1 min longe r.
Gruyere water 600 g ® Fill three bowls with water: heat two to 75-80 oc l 167-176 °F; fill the third wit h co ld water.
see page 20 @ Transfer spheres with slotted spoo n to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.
@ Rinse spheres aga in in second bowl of warm water, and reserve in co ld water.
Heavy crea m 100g
@ Mix, and bring to boil.
Iota carrageenan 4.2g
(Texturas brand) @ Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room temperature until abo ut 60 oc I 140 °F.
Locust bean gum 0.44g @ Dispense "egg" w hi te into o ne half of plastic eggs hell .
(PORI A2 Powder, @ Place yo lk sp here in ce nter of white, and cap with top half of plastic shell.
TIC Gums brand) @ Dispense remaining white into sea led shell through drilled hol e until overflowing.
® Chill over ice .
from page 4·195
TOMATO SPHERES WITH BASIL OIL Yields3oog(about12spheresl
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomato water 250g 50%
see page 40 CD Blend until homogen ized.
Sodium alginate 2g 0.4% 0 Press through fine sieve, and reserve refrigerated.
(Algin, Texturas brand)
200g 40% ® Pu ree in blender for 3 min.
Grapeseed oil 100 g 20%
Basil, blanched and shocked 0 Press through fine sieve.
100%
Water SOOg 0.5% ® Decant basil oil, and reserve in syringe.
Calcium lactate 2.5 g ® Blend to dissolve comp lete ly.
0 Set up four baths: fill one with calc ium lactate so lution, an d fill three with co ld water.
® Fill tablespoon with reserve d tom ato water so lution.
® Tip spoon into calc ium lactate bath to gently release co ntents.
@ Set in bath until membrane has fully formed around tomato sp here, abo ut 30 s.
@ Inj ect approximately 3 ml I 0.1 oz of basil oil into submerged sphere.
@ Remove syringe; wait for membrane puncture to hea l and sphere to res hap e, abo ut 15 s.
@ Remove sp here from bath with perforated spoon.
@ Repeat procedures with remaining tomato water solution and basil oil.
@ Rinse sp heres in eac h of three co ld water baths.
@ Refrigerate until need ed.
from page 4·192
292 VOLUM E 6 ·K ITCH EN MANUA L
GRUYERE SPHERES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 2 kg (about 24 sp heres)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Gruyere cheese, finely grated 250 g CD Spread on tray lin ed with sili cone mat.
400% 0 Bake in 175 oc I 350 °Foven until gold en, about 12 min.
Whole milk 1 kg 3%
7.5 g ® Blend w ith cheese until fully in co rporated .
Propylene glycol alginate
(Prota nal Ester BV, to taste 0 Refri gerate overnight.
FMC BioPolymer brand)
® Strain through fine sieve.
Salt
® Season, and pipe into sili cone hemisphere molds 3 em I 1Y., in. in diameter.
Water, room temperature 500g 200% 0 Freeze comp lete ly, about 2 h.
LM pectin (Genu pectin 20g 8%
LM 104 AS, CP Kelco brand) ® Blend until comp lete ly dissolved.
500g 200% ® Remove frozen cheese hemispheres from molds, and drop into pectin bath.
Water, room temperature 2.5g 1%
Calcium lactate @ Soak until coated with pectin, abo ut 1Y2 min.
80%
Yellow onions, thinly sliced 200g 20% @ Blend until comp lete ly dissolved to make setting bath.
Unsalted butter 50g 0.32 % @ Drop pectin-coated spheres into setting bath.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.8g @ Allow membrane to form, at least 90s, and then remove from bath; hold in cold water.
CP Kelco brand) @ Saute onions until very tender and deep gold en, abo ut 35 min.
Salt to taste @ Puree.
Rye bread, froz en, lOO g @ Blend into onion puree.
crusts removed
40% @ Season onion puree.
Oxtail consomme 500g 200%
see page46 4% @ Cut into sli ces 3 mm I Ys in thick with meat sli ce r.
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste ® Roll sli ces through pasta machine to compress.
lOg
Lemon thyme leaves @ Bake slices at 95 oc I 205 °Fbetween two si licone mats for 45 min.
from page 4·190
@ Combine, and bring to simmer.
@ Season soup.
@ Drop cheese spheres into soup, and warm through.
@ Serve spheres in hot conso mm e with rye bread sli ce smeared with onion puree.
® Garnish.
CAPER DROPLETS Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Capers 90g 100%
White wine vinegar 6g 6 .7% CD Blend to fine puree.
Caper brine 5g 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Calcium lactate 3g
5.5%
Water 500g 3.3% ® Whisk into caper puree.
2 .5 g (3%)*
Sodium alginate 0 Disperse alginate in co ld water until fully dissolved, to make setting bath.
(Algin, Texturas brand) 555 %
2 .8% ® Fill squeeze bottle with caper puree.
{0.5%)** ® Expel droplets into bath, and leave for 30 s.
0 Drain droplets, and rinse in fresh water.
Neutral oil as needed ® Reserve droplets in oil.
from page 5·159
*(% oftotal weight ofcapers, white wine vinegar, and caper brine)
**(%oftotal weight ofwater)
GElS 293
MUSSELS IN MUSSEL JUICE SPHERES ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 200 g (about 20 spheres)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Mussel jus 100g 2.5% CD Blend until complete ly dissolved.
see page34 0.5% 0 Vacuum seal solution to remove excess air.
0 Refrigerate until needed.
Calcium gluconate 2.5g 1,000%
5% 0 Steam for 3 min until just opened.
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 0.5g
7% ® Shuck.
Rock mussels 20 mussels 400% ® Refrigerate to cool quickly.
Water 1 kg 0 Blend to dissolve completely.
5g
Sodium alginate (Algin, ® Vacuum seal to remove excess air.
Texturas brand) ® Set up three baths: fill one with sodium alginate solution, and fill two with cold water.
Salt 7g @ Place one mussel at a time onto spoon 2.5 em I 1 in. in diameter.
Water 400g
@ Pour 4 g of reserved mussel juice solution onto mussel.
from page 4·191 @ Tip spoon carefully into sodium alg in ate bath to gently release contents.
@ Set in bath until membrane has fully formed, about 5 min.
@ Remove sphere from bath with perforated spoon.
@ Repeat procedure with remaining mussels and mussel juice solution.
@ Rinse spheres in two cold water baths.
@ Dissolve salt in waterto make brine.
@ Immerse mussel spheres in brine.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
@ To serve, warm spheres in 60 oc I 140 °Fbath for 3 min.
LIQUID PIMENTO OLIVE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields480 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Extra-virgin olive oil 500g 100%
Thyme 20g 4% CD Combine to make aromatic olive oil.
Orange peel, julienne 15g 0 Reserve for later use.
Green olives, pitted 500g
Olive brine, from olives 200g 3% 0 Blend in food processor to fine paste.
Calcium lactate 13.5 g 100% 0 Press through fine sieve, and reserve 450 g of o live puree.
40%
2.7% ® Blend by hand with olive puree until completely dissolved.
(3%)*
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 1.6 g 0.32% ® Blend gradually with olive puree.
(0.36%)*
0 Cast into hemisphere molds.
Piquillo pepper, cut in thin 15g 3% ® Place pepper strip on top, and carefully push into each hemisphere.
strips (store-bought) 5g
1 kg ®Freeze.
Sodium alginate (Algin,
Texturas brand) 1% @ Disperse with hand blender, and refrigerate until needed.
Water
200% @ Before use, blend until sodium alginate is completely incorporated.
@ Vacuum sea l to remove accumulated bubbles.
@ Pour into bowl to make bath for setting olives.
@ Bring bath to simmer.
@ Remove each frozen hemisphere from mold, place on spoon, and tip gently into bath.
@ Set in bath for 3 min. Hemispheres will thaw into spheres, and skin will form.
@ Remove olive sphere from bath with perforated spoon.
@ Rinse sphere twice in cold water.
@ Repeat with remaining olive hemispheres.
@ Store spherifi ed o lives, refrigerated, in reserved aromatic olive oil.
from page 4·193 *(%ofweight ofreserved olive puree)
294 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
PROSCIUTTO AND MELON "RAW EGG" Yields five eggs
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the setti ng bath: CD Whisk together.
0 Vacuum sea l to remove excess a ir, and refrigerate for 2 h.
Water 2 kg 400%
® Sift together.
Sodium a lgin ate (TtCA-algin lO g 2%
400 Powder, TIC Gums brand) @) Blend juice into ca lcium lactate mixture, taking care to incorporate as li ttle air as possible.
For the egg-yolk base: ® Dispense with sauce gun into 2 em I :Y., in hemisphere molds.
Sugar 20g 4% ® Freeze.
Calcium lactate 9g 1.8% 0 Heat sodium a lgin ate so lution until fluid is 60-65 "C / 140-149 "F.
Xanthangum 2.5g 0.5% ® Remove from heat, and carefully drop in frozen hemispheres.
® Leave for 2 min, turn spheres over, and leave forl min longer.
Salt 1.7g 0.3% @ Fill three bowls with water: heat two to 75-80 "C / 167-176 "F; fill third with co ld water.
@ Transfer spheres with slotted spoon to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.
Malic acid l.lg 0.2% @ Rinse spheres again in second bow l of warm water, a nd reserve in cold water.
Melon juice 500g 100% @ Mix, and bring to boil.
@ Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room temperature until about 60 "C / 140 "F.
(from about @ Dispense "egg" white into one half of plastic eggshe ll.
@ Place yolk sp here in ce nter of white, a nd cap with other half of plastic she ll.
900 g of melon) @ Dispense remaining white into sealed shell through drill e d hole until overflowing.
@ Chill over ice.
For the "raw" egg-white base: 500g 100%
Ham broth, gelati n-clarified 1.25 g 0.25%
see page 14 and page 16 0.032g 0.006%
Xanthan gum
Locust bean gum
(POR/A2 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
from page 4·194
GElS 295
DAIRY EMULSIONS
ULTRASTABLE BEURRE BLANC Yields220 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, stock, or heavy cream 100g 100%
Agar O.Sg 0.5% 0 Dry blend agar a nd propylene glycol a lginate, and d isperse in co ld liquid.
Propylene glycol alginate O.Sg 0.5% 0 Heat to 95 •c1 203 •F. Cool until fully set, about10 min.
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand) 100g ® Puree to fluid gel.
White wine (dry) 30g
Champagne vinegar 30g 0 Reserve.
Shallots, finely minced 100g
Unsalted butter, small cubed 1g 100% ® Reduce until a lmost syrupy, and strain.
Liquid soy lecithin 20 g 30% ® Measure 20 g of reduction, and reserve.
Wine reduction, from above to taste 30%
Salt to taste 100% 0 Melt butter.
Lemon juice 1%
20% ® Whisk into warm butter.
®B lend reserved win e re duction with fluid gel.
@S lowly pour in warm butter mixture while blending with rotor-stator homogenizer or
other high-sh ea r appliance until full y emulsified.
@Seaso n, and serve hot with poac hed lobster (below), or cool and refrigerate.
from page 4·219
POACHED LOBSTER Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lobster tails, shelled 300 g (four tails) 300%
0 Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 55 •c I 131 •Fbath to core temperature of 54 · c I
Beurre blanc, from above 220g 73%
Salt to taste 129 •F, a bout 25 min.
from page 4·219
0 Warm beurre blanc in 90 •cl194 •Fbath or in sma ll pot over medium heat.
® Slice and seaso n lobster, and serve with warm beurre blanc.
BEET FLEXICURD ADAPTED FROM JOHNNY IUZZINI Yields 900 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
lsomalt (or sugar) 100g 25% 0 Dry blend.
Salt llg 2.75%
LM Pectin 104 AS 8g 2%
(0.9%)*
(Genu pectin, CP Kelco brand)
Malic acid 4g 1%
Agar (Texturas brand) 3.4 g 0.85%
(0.38%)*
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 2.6g 0.65%
LT100, CP Kelco brand) 1g (0.29%)*
300g
Kappa carrageenan (Texturas 0.25% 0 Disperse isomalt mixture into cold juice.
brand) (0.11%)* ® Heat to 95 •c I 203 •F, and hold at that temperature.
75% 0 Blend slowly into hot mixture until emu lsified.
Beet juice
see page 2·336 25%
Unsalted butter, melted lOOg 100% ®Add hot puree, and hold at simm er for1 min.
400g ® Pour mixture into plastic wrap-l in ed quarter sheet, and al low to set, about 3 min.
Beet puree,
brought to simmer 0 Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
see page 55
® Cut into desired shapes, and serve hot or cold.
from page 4·219 *(%oftotal weight affinal three ingredients)
296 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SEA URCHIN BUTTER Yields2oog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sake (dry) 200g 100%
Vermouth (dry) 150g 75% CD Combine in pot, a nd reduce to 150 g, about 10 min.
Shallots, finely minced SOg 25% 0 Strain.
Champagne vinegar 25g 12.5%
Tarragon leaves, minced 1g 0.5%
Black peppercorns, 0.25g 0.13%
coarsely ground
Sea urchin tongues 40g 20% ® Heat reduction to simmer, and then blend in sea urchin tongues a nd butter until fully
Unsalted butter, cubed 30g 15% e mulsified.
Pink grapefruit con fit 30g
syrup 15% 0 Season butter.
see page 146 to taste
Lime juice to taste
Salt
from page 5·227
OYSTER BUTTER EMULSION vields22Sg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
150%
Shallots, finely minced 75g 100% CD Sweattogether until te nder, about10 min.
70 %
Clarified unsalted butter SOg 0 Add to shallot mixture.
see page 4 ·213 70%
® Sweatfor2 min.
Celery, peeled and 3Sg 400%
finely minced 300% 0 Add to shallot mixture.
100%
Oyster trimmings, from 3Sg 14% ® Simmer until red uced to 150 g.
shucked and cleaned
oysters ® Steep in reduction for 3 min.
White vermouth 200g 0 Strain .
White fish stock 150g ® Cool, and refrige rate until us e.
see page 6 ® To serve, warm reduction. Blend in butter and creme fraiche to form e mulsion.
Oyster juice, SOg @ Season.
see page 5·236
Darjeeling tea leaves 7g
Unsalted butter SOg 100%
Creme fraiche 25g 50%
White wine vinegar Sg 10%
Salt to taste
from page 5·236
BLACK BUTTER EMULSION Yields3oog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown fish stock 400g
see page 6 200% CD Reduce to 200 g.
Fish stock reduction, 200g
from above 100% 0 Blend black butter, soy sauce, and ink into re duced stock.
Black butter, warmed
see page 4·213 25g 12.5%
White soy sauce
20g 10% ® Heat black butter emulsion base to low simmer.
Squid ink 2.7g 1.35%
Unsalted butter, cold 40g 20% 0 Blend in butte r until fully emulsified, a nd then blend in miso.
Whitemiso 20g 10%
lemon juice as needed ® Season with le mon juice.
from page 5·158
EMULSIONS 297
BROILED TUNA BELLY WITH MONTPELLIER BUTTER Yields 850 g of butter, 500 g of tuna with butter (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolks, blended 100g 22%
CD Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 67 oc I 153 °Fbath for 30 min.
Unsalted butter, melted 450g 100% 0 Strain through fine sieve.
Mono- and diglycerides 54g 12 % ® Heat to 65 oc I 150 °F, stirring until flakes have dissolved, and remove from heat.
(Giice, Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 18g 4% @) Hand blend into warm butter mixture.
1.8g 0.4% ® Blend in cooked egg yolks until smooth .
Sodium caseinate 125 g 28% ® Combine, and fold into butter mixture unti l all components are evenly distributed.
Garlic chives, pureed 90g 20% 0 Cast onto sheet in one layer1.5 em I% in thick to form Montpellier butter.
see page 55
30g 6.7% ® Freeze, and cut into cubes.
Garlicconfit 25 g 5.5%
see page 176
25g 5.5% The great advantage oft his recipe
Anchovy paste is that it allows the butter to stay
Pickled ramp bulb, brunoise 15g 3.3% emulsified when hot. So when it
see page 178 15g 3.3% melts into a fluid, it doesn't break
Spinach, pureed lOg 2.2% into an oily sli ck the way that
see page 55 9g 2% traditional compound butte rs do.
Chives, finely minced 2.5 g 0.6%
2g 0.4% ® Arrange five sli ces of tuna on each offour ovenproof plates.
Parsley, finely minced 2g 0.4% @ Dot with cubes of Montpellier butter, and place under broiler for 1 min until butter is
Young ginger, finely diced 1.2g 0.3%
0.7 g 0.2% melted, surface is golden, and fish is just warmed through.
Salt 400g 89%
Lemon zest @ Seas-on-.----------------------------------------------
Cayenne pepper
Lime juice
Black pepper
Star anise, finely ground
Tuna belly, sliced 5 mm I
Y. in thick
Salt to taste
from page 4·220
BLOOD PUDDING CUSTARD ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Star anise 1.3g 0.19%
Dried ginger 0.5g 0.07% CD Combine.
Cinnamon stick 0.3g 0.04% 0 Toast on baking tray at 150 oc I 300 °Funtil fragrant, about 10 min.
Sichuan peppercorns 0.3g 0.04%
Cardamom seeds, black 0.15g 0.02% ® Cool.
100% @) Crush lightly.
Heavy cream, stabilized with 690g ® Place sp ice blend on cheesecloth.
hydrocolloids (or processed at 23% ® Bund le, and tie cloth at top to form sachet.
ultrahigh temperature)
1.2% 0 Heat to 70 oc I 160 °F.
Fresh pig's blood 160 g 0.7%
® Add spice sachet.
Salt 8g ® Refrigerate to cool.
Sugar Sg @ Discard sachet once infused cream is fully cooled.
® Combine with infused cream.
from page 4-221 @ Transfer to Thermo mix fitted with butterfly whisk attachment or to beaker set on
magnetic heating plate with overhead paddle-stirring attachment.
@ Cook in 70 oc I 160 °FThermomix or beaker just until pudding has thickened to custard,
about 4 h. Emulsion wi ll split if over-reduced.
@ Season.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
@ To serve, reheat so us vide in 60 oc I 140 °Fbath.
298 VO LU M E 6 ·K ITCHE N MANUA l
CONSTRUCTED CHEESES
CD Combine the liquids and other ingredients (except cheese and milk ® Check pH. A target final pH is listed in the table. If the emulsion is not
stable, and the pH reading is higher than listed, it may be necessary to
powder), and bring to a simmer. add more emu lsifying salts (sodium citrate or one of the phosphates).
0 Gradually whisk in the cheese. Also add milk powder, if called for. Whisk ® Season the cheese with salt, and serve warm. Or pour it into a lightly oiled
mold, and chill for later use.
and melt until the cheese is completely incorporated.
0 Refrigerate. Cover the cheese surface tightly to prevent a skin from
® Simmer for 2 min. This step is crucial in forming a smooth emulsion rather
than a grainy, broken liquid . form ing.
0 Puree with an immersion blender until very smooth and silky. Do not
puree fondue; the stringy strands are usually considered desirable.
Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses
Recipe Liquid (scaling) Other ingredients (scaling) Cheese Final
(scal ing) pH Note
fondue (hot water 80% sodium citrate 4.4% Gruyere or young 100% 5.8 keep hot when
cheese dip) Fonti na, grated serving; thickens
Fino sherry 40% Joha SDS2 sodium 1.2%
ordrywhite
phosphate (Fibrisol brand) slightly if reheated
wine lambda carrageenan 0.5%
thin cheese water 100% sodium citrate 2.0% Swiss cheese, 100% 5.9 very silky texture; very
spread, hot or grated good either hot or
cold whey protein concentrate 1.0% cold
Joha SDS2 sodium 1.2%
phosphate (Fibrisol brand)
thick cheese water 100% sodium citrate 2.0% Swiss cheese, 100% 6.1 best choice for use in
sauce/spread, whey protein 1.0% grated macaroni and cheese,
hot or cold concentrate and cheese omelet
cheese soup, hot water 160% sodium citrate 5.2% Gruyere 100% 6.1 good pairings: beer
and cheddar; dry
whey protein concentrate 1.3% Riesling and Gouda;
port and Stilton
cheeseburger water 67% sodium citrate 6.7% Em mental, grated 100%
cheese slice wheat ale 50% iota carrageenan 3.0% Comte, grated 90% 6.0 cast into mold quickly
kappa carrageenan 1.0% after combining, or
cheese slice for water 32% sodium citrate 2.0% Gruyere, grated 100% m ixture will set
baking (raclette disodium phosphate 0.8% skim milk powder 4%
analogue) (BK Giulini brand) 5.8 best cut into slices and
baked until melted
from page 4·223
EMULSIONS 299
CONSTRUCTED VEAL CREAM Yields360 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tapioca starch 11.2 g 4.5%
Salt 6g 2.4% 0 Combine to make emulsifying blend.
Whey protein isolate 6g 2.4%
Iota carrageenan 1g 0.4% 0 Add emulsifying blend to stock, and homogenize thoroughly.
Acetic acid 0.5g 0.2% ® Warm mixture to 85 oc I 185 °F, and reserve at same temperature.
Polysorbate 80 0.4g 0.16 % 0 Warm fat to 85 °C I 185 °F.
Xanthan gum 0.16g 0.064%
White veal stock, cold 250g 100% ® Drizzle into hot stock mixture while blending until fully emulsified.
see page 6 ® Serve with blanquette de veau in place of traditional cream sauce.
80g 32%
Rendered veal marrow
from page 5·33
THE AMERICAN CHEESE SLICE Yields635 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 230g 115 %
Salt 5g 2.5% 0 Mix dry ingredients, and disperse into water.
Sodium citrate 14g 0 Bring to simmer to hydrate.
Iota carrageenan 6g 7%
(Texturas brand) (2.3%)*
Kappa carrageenan 2g
(Texturas brand) 3%
Swiss cheese, grated 200g (0.98%)*
White cheddar, grated 180g
1% ® Add cheese gradually to simmering water mixture, blending constantly with hand
from page 4·224 (0.33%)* blender.
100% 0 Continue blending until texture is fluid and smooth.
90% ® Pour cheese mixture into greased cylindrical mold 7 em I 2:Y.. in. in diameter and at least
18 em I 7 in long. Complete the transfer very quickly.
® Refngerate for at least 2 h to set.
0 Remove cheese from mold, and slice to desired thickness.
® Store refrigerated between sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper.
*(%oftotal combined weightojwaterand cheeses)
CHEESE IN A TUBE Yields 215 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sodium citrate 2g 2%
Whey protein concentrate 1g 1% 0 Combine, and bring to simmer.
Sodium phosphate 1.2g 1.2%
(Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)
Water 100g 100% 0 Gradually whisk cheese into hot liquid until fully in corporated. Simmer for 2 min.
Aged Gouda, finely grated 50 g 50%
Monterey jack, finely grated 50 g 50% ® Puree with hand blender until smooth.
Jalapeno, finely minced 10 g 10%
Cayenne pepper powder 2g 2% 0 Fold into warm cheese mixture.
Salt to taste
® Adjust seasoning.
® Transfer to squeeze bottle, an d pipe into unused empty paint tubes. Reserve chilled.
from page 4·225
300 VOLUME 6 ·KITCH EN MANUAL
CHEESY WHIP Yields480 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sodium citrate 4g 2%
Whey protein concentrate 2g 1% CD Dry blend powd ers.
Sodium phosphate 2.4 g 1.2%
(Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)
Water 200g 100% 0 Disperse powd er mixture in cold water, and bring to simmer.
Gruyere, finely grated 200g 100%
® Gradually whisk cheese into hot liquid until fully in corporated . Simmer for 2 min.
Whole milk BOg 40%
Salt to taste 0 Puree with hand blender until completely smooth.
from page 4·225 ® Blend into cheese mixture. Cool completely.
® Season generously to compensate for aeration, and pour into 1 I whipping siphon.
0 Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Shake vigorously, and dispense to serve.
CHEDDAR SOUP Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
20%
Brown butter 20g CD Melt butter in pot, and add shallots, garlic, and bay leaf.
see page 4·213 15% 0 Cook over med ium heat until translucent, about 7 min .
100%
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 15g 160% ® Deglaze pot with beer, and reduce until pan is dry.
5%
Shallots, thinly sliced 100g 1.3% 0 Dissolve sodium citrate and whey protein in water, and add to pot.
160%
Wheat beer (Hefeweizen-style) 160g 100% ® Bring to simmer.
Sodium citrate 5g ® Gradually whisk into simmering liquid until completely incorporated.
Whey protein concentrate 1.3g 0 Puree with hand blender until smooth. Pass through fine sieve.
Distilled water 160g ® Season and serve, or chil l over ice and refrigerate until use.
Aged cheddar, finely grated 100g
Salt to taste
from page 4·225
EMUL SION S 301
EGG EMULSIONS
REMOULADE SAUCE Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Mayonnaise 90g 0 Comb in e.
60% 0 Refrige rate .
store-bought or see page 303 35%
20%
lemon juice 55g 4.5%
4%
Whole-grain mustard 31 g
Dijon mustard 17g
Garlic clove, crushed 4g
Green bird's eye chili 3.5g
(fresh), minced
Worcestershire sauce 2.5g 2.5%
2%
Hot sauce 2g 0.5%
35%
Hungarian sweet paprika 0.5g
Celery, peeled and finely 30g ® Fold into mayonna ise mixture just before serving.
minced
Flat-leaf parsley, minced 4g 4.5%
2%
Celery leaf, minced 2g 2%
0.5%
Chives, minced 2g
Black pepper, coarsely 0.5g
crushed
Salt to taste @) Season remoulade.
from page 5·75
WHITE COLESLAW Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Buttermilk 60g 40%
Grapeseed oil 29 g 19% 0 Blend thoroughly to make dressing; use rotor-stator homoge nizer, if available, for richer
White balsamic vinegar 20 g
Egg yolk, cooked sous 19 g 13.5% texture.
12.5%
vide, at 65 •c I 149 •F 9g
7g 6% 0 Season dress ing, and rese rve.
for35 min 3g 5%
Rendered bacon fat to taste 2% ® Toss cabbage in salt.
Dijon mustard 150g @) Let soften for1 min.
100% ® Toss with dressing.
Sugar 1g ® Arrange on coleslaw, and serve immediately.
Salt 0.5%
Savoy cabbage, fine 80%
julienne 1.5%
Salt
1%
Green apple, smal l dice 120g
Horseradish root, 2g
finely grated
1.5g
Celery seeds,
lightly toasted
from page 5·72
302 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SEA URCHIN TARTAR SAUCE Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Eggs (shelled) 60g 71%
0 Vacuum seal.
Lime juice 7g 8.5% 0 Cook so us vide in 65 oc I 149 °F bath for 30 min.
Dijon mustard 5g 6%
Grapeseed oil 85g 100% ® Chill in ice-water bath.
75g 88% 0 Peel.
Sea urchin tongues 28g 33% ® Blend with cooked eggs.
Cornichons, finely 0 Drizzle into egg mixture while blending, until fully emulsified.
minced 0 Reserve.
Scallions, finely minced
Garlic chives, fine ® Pass through fine sieve.
brunoise ® Blend into egg emulsion.
Parsley, finely minced @ Fold into sauce.
Chervil, finely minced
Tarragon, finely minced 20g 2%
Salt 7.5g 9%
Black pepper
Cayenne pepper 7g 8.5% @ Season sauce.
from page 5·145 4.7 g 5.5% @ Refrigerate until use.
1.8 g 2%
1.5g 2%
0.5g 0.6%
0.3g 0.4%
BASIC MAYONNAISE Yields470 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolks, blended 45g 15%
Water 75g 25% 0 Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 67 oc I 153 °Fbath for 30 min.
Dijon mustard 21 g 7% 0 Whisk together, and puree with cooked egg yolks until smooth.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.7g 0 .23%
CP Kelco brand) (0.75%)* ® Drizzle slowly into egg mixture while blending until mixture is fully emu lsified .
Grapeseed oil 300g 100% 0 Season.
Lemon juice 15g 5% ® Refrigerate.
White wine vinegar lOg 3.3%
Salt to taste
from page 4·226
*(% oftotal combined weight ofall other ingredients)
HOT EGG MAYONNAISE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields490 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole eggs BOg 65%
Egg yolks 60g 30% 0 Blend until smooth.
Dijon mustard 35g 17.5% 0 Vacuum seal, and cook in 65 oc I 149 °Fbath for 35 min.
Sunflower oil (or other 200g 100%
neutral oil) ® Combine.
Extra-virgin olive oil 50g 25% 0 Blend with warm egg mixture until emulsified.
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste ® Season.
from page 4·227 0 Pour contents into 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
0 Hold filled siphon in 62 oc I 144 °F bath until ready to serve.
® Dispense mayonnaise from siphon, and serve with grilled asparagus or poached fish.
EMULSIONS 303
SOFT-BOILED EGG AND GARLIC EMULSION INSPIRED BY MICHEL BRAS Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
30%
Garlic confit, pressure cooked 30g 0 Puree until smooth .
see page176 25% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
100%
White wine vinegar 25g ® Vacuum sea l, and cook so us vide in 67 ' CI 153 ' Fbath for 35 min.
100%
Whole eggs 100 g(about 100% 0 Blend w ith garlic puree until smooth .
two large) 50%
® Drizzle in slowly while blending into egg-garlic mixture until ful ly emulsified .
Grapeseed oi l 100g 30%
Olive o il 100g ® Season.
Walnut oil SOg
Salt to taste 0 Fo ld in, and refrigerate.
Green onions, 30 g
very thinly sliced
from page 4·227
SOUS VIDE LEMON CURD Yields850 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
30%
Egg yolks 120 g 0 Vacuum sea l, and cook in 65 ' CI 149 ' Fbath for 35 min.
75% 0 Coo l and reserve.
Sugar 300g 30%
Water 120g 2% ® Bring to boil to dissolve sugar and acid .
Citric acid 8g 100%
Unsalted butter, room 400g 0 Coo l to room temperature.
temperature 0.5%
Lemon essential oi l (optional) 1g 0.1% ® Blend butter w ith egg yo lk s and sugar syrup until smooth.
Salt 0.4 g ® Add more essentia l o il to taste. Other oils bes id es lemon may be used.
0 Vacuum seal.
® Refrigerate until firm, 4-24 h.
from page 4·227
BACON JAM Yields375g
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
lsoma lt 50g 50%
Sugar 40g 40% 0 Combine, and heat to 90 ' CI 195 ' Funtil fu ll y dissolved .
Water 30g 30% 0 Coo l and reserve.
Maple syrup (Grade B) 30g 30%
Egg yolks 75g 75 % ® Vacuum sea l, and cook in 66 ' CI 151 ' Fbath for 30 min.
0 Strain t hrough fine sieve.
Rendered bacon fat, warm 100g 100%
® Blend into cooled syrup.
Bacon strips, finely diced 120g 120% ® Drizzle slowly into egg syrup wh il e blending constantly until fu ll y emulsified .
Sa lt to taste 0 Refrigerate.
Liquid carame l co loring as needed ® Fry or bake in 175 ' CI 350 ' Foven until crisp, about 25 min.
(optional)
® Drain on absorbent paper towe ls. Cool, and store in dry, coo l place.
from page 4·229 @ Season jam w ith salt.
@ Add co loring to ach ieve desired shade.
@ Fold in 50 g of bacon bits, and serve with warm biscuits (see page 5·77).
@ If mixture has been refrigerated, it shou ld be tempered for about 20 min before use.
304 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
DEEP-FRIED HOLLANDAISE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 1.2 kg (40 pieces)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Unsalted butter, melted 640g 640%
160 Bloom gelatin sheet 60g 60% CD Soften gelatin leaves in cold water.
0 Drain, and dissolve gelatin in butter.
Low-acyl gellan 3.5 g 3.5%
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand) ® Reserve warm .
Sodium hexametaphosphate 2g
Citric acid 0.6g 0 Dry blend.
Water 170g
2% ® Add blended powders to pot of water.
Egg yolks, blended lOOg 0.6% ® Bring to boil, and remove from heat.
Water llOg 170%
Ultra-Sperse M lOg 0 Pour into container.
(National Starch brand) 100%
to taste 110 % ® Refrigerate until set, about5 min.
Lemon juice to taste 10% ® Puree gel with yolks until fluid, and reserve.
Salt @ Whisk to combine.
100% @ Blend into yo lk gel mixture until smooth.
All-purpose wheat flour lOOg 100% @ Drizzle in reserved warm butter while continuous ly blending to make hollandaise.
Eggs, blended lOOg 200% @ Season hollandaise.
English muffins, dried 200g
and ground into powder (four muffins) @ Cast into mold 2.5 em I 1 in thick.
Frying oil
as needed @ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h.
from page 4·228 @ Cut set gel in to cubes .
@ Dredge cubes eve nly in flour, and shake off excess.
@ Coat cubes evenly w ith blended eggs.
@ Roll cubes in bread crumbs. Shake off any excess. Rep eat breading procedure once.
@ Freeze for 30 min to harden crusts.
@ Deep-fry cubes in 190 ' C I 375 ' Foil until gold en, about 1Y2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
sous VIDE INSTANT HOLLANDAISE IN SP IR ED BY DANIEL HUMM Yields345g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE If you choose to use stock rather
White wine (dry) 100g 133% than water, consider the ingredient
Shallots, finely minced 50g 67% CD Comb ine. for which the hollandaise is being
White vinegar 35g 47% 0 Reduce to syrup-like cons istency. prepared: use fish stock for fish,
poultry stock for poultry, and so on .
Egg yolks 75g 100% ® Strain. For stock recipes, see page 2·296.
(four large) (28%)*
Stock or water 20g 27% 0 Measure 20 g of wine reduction. Alternatively, the hollandaise base
Unsalted butter, melted 225 g 300% can be cooked so us vid e in a 63 ' C
® Blend thoroughly with wine reduction. 1 145 ' Fbath to produce a lighter
Salt 4g 5.3 % foam, or in a slightly warmer
Malic acid lg 1.3% ® Vacuum seal. 67 ' C 1 153 ' Fbath for a denser
foam.
Two-stage fried egg four eggs 0 Cook in 65 ' C I 149 ' Fbath for 30 min.
see page 2
from page 4·228 ® Remove cooked egg yolk mixture from bag, and
blend in butter mixture unti l fully emu lsifi ed.
® Season.
@ Transfer to 1 I siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of nitrous ox id e, and
shake vigorously.
@ Hold siph on in 60 ' C I 140 ' Fbath.
@ Garnish eggs with hollandaise.
*(%oftotal weight ofwine reduction, stock, and unsalted butter)
EMULSIONS 305
OTHER EMULSIONS
BLACK OLIVE PUREE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
160 Bloom gelatin sheet 2g 4%
CD Soften gelatin in co ld water.
Black olive juice 50g 100% 0 Drain, and set aside.
(from 150 g pitted
Sucrose esters Kalamata olives) ® Heat10 g of o li ve juice.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Olive oil 0.5g 1% 0 Melt softened gelatin in warm juice.
Mono- and diglycerides
(Giice, Texturas brand) 50g 100% ® Add remaining40 g of juice, and mix.
0.5g 1%
from page 4·230 ® Blend into juice mixture.
0 Set aside.
@ Warm oil to 65 oc / 149 °F.
® Dissolve Glice flakes in oil.
@ Add oil mixture slowly to juice until it emu lsifies and forms puree.
@ Refrigerate puree until thickened, about 2 h.
THICKENED OIL ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Extra-virgin olive oil 100g
(or other oil) 100% CD Heat to 65 oc / 149 °Fin saucepan.
Mono- and diglycerides 7g
(Giice, Texturas brand) 7% 0 Add, and stir to dissolve.
from page 4·230 ® Cool oil to room temperature.
0 Transfer to bowl held in ice-water bath.
® Whisk until cold, opaque, and thickened to consistency of mayonnaise.
® Serve as spread, or use as garnish.
0 Thickened oil can also be transferred to 11 whipping siph on, charged with two cartridges
of nitrous oxide, and dispensed to form thick oil foam .
INVINCIBLE VINAIGRETTE Yields325g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Champagne vinegar 80g 80%
Quince vinegar 35g 35% CD Combine, and heat to 60 °C / 140 °F.
Pear juice 20g 20% 0 Blend over heat until ingredients are completely incorporated.
Dijon mustard 5g 5%
Propylene glycol alginate 0.98g 0.98%
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, (0.3 %)*
FMC BioPolymer brand) 100g
Extra-virgin olive oil 55 g 100% ® Combine oils.
Pistachio oil 30g 55%
Walnut oil 1.85 g 0 Drizzle slowly into vinegar mixture while blending; process until emulsified.
liquid soy lecithin
(NOW brand) to taste 30%
Salt
from page 4·231 1.85%
(7%)* *
® Season.
*(%oftotal weight ofall ingredients); **( %oftotal weight ofoils)
Use the above recipe as a template for any basic vinaigrette. Different oils For a low-fat version of this vin a igrette, replace 100 g of oil with 100 g of
and acids can be used to create a variety of effects. The vinaigrette is flavorful liquid, 1 g of Ultra-Sperse 5, and 0.2 g of xanthan gum. The overall
completely heat stable, so it can be made with animal fats or dairy fat for use flavor wil l be more acidic, so the liquid used should be quite flavorful or the
in warm salads, eggs, and cooked meats. quantity ofvinegar used should be reduced.
306 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SPOT PRAWNS WITH FOIE GRAS NAGE INSPIRED BY THIERRY RAUTUREAU Yields 1.2 kg (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown vegetable stock 250g 100%
see page 6 CD Dry blend propylene glycol alginate a nd salt.
3g 1.2% 0 Disperse powder blend into cold stock.
Salt 0.2g 0.08%
® Heat to 60 oc I 140 °F to hydrate.
Propylene glycol alginate 40g
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, 15g 16% 0 Blend with warm stock until fully emulsified.
FMC BioPolymer brand) 8g 6%
Raw foie gras, cubed 3.2% ® Add, and steep nage forl min.
® Strain.
White miso paste
Chervil, chopped 0 Season nage, and reserve warm.
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
Spot prawns 12 prawns about290% ® Steam in combi oven at 60 oc / 140 °Fand 100% relative humidity for12 min;
(abo ut 720 g) or vacuum seal, and cook in 60 oc/ 140 °Fbath for12 min.
Fresh lychees, peeled and 60g 24% ® Divide prawns among four bowls.
seeded(orcanned) @Garn ish.
Pink Lady apples, peeled and 60g 24% @ Pour warm nage around each portion.
finely shaved with mandoline
4%
Peanuts, roasted and crushed lOg 1.2%
Anise hyssop, small leaves 3g
from page 4·233
EGGLESS CITRUS CURD INSPIRED BY PASCAL BARBOT Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lemons, washed, whole 300g 385%
CD Vacuum sea l in retort pouch, or place in large Mason jar.
Lemon puree, from above 130g 100% 0 Place pouch or jar in pressure cooker filled with 2.5 em / 1 in of water.
Grapefruit juice 100 g 77%
lime juice 60g 46% ® Pressure-cook for 30 min at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi, and coo l.
Lemon juice 50g 38%
Lemon zest, finely grated 14g 11% 0 Remove lemons from pouch or jar, a nd puree.
Grapefruit zest, finely grated 6g 4.6%
lime zest, finely grated 2g 1.5% ® Pass through fine sieve, and measure 130 g of puree.
Water 130g 100% ® Mix together, and reserve.
Honey 35 g 27%
Sugar 30g 23% 0 Combine, and boil for 3 min.
Propylene glycol alginate 5g 3.8%
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, ® Stir in citrus puree.
FMC BioPolymer brand) 5g ® Bring mixture to simmer.
Salt 200g
Unsalted butter, cubed 3.8% @ Blend or whisk butter cubes into hot citrus mixture in small batches until fully emulsified.
154% @ Strain through fine sieve, and refrigerate for at least 3 h.
from page 4·234
EMULSIONS 307
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sous vide vegetable stock 300g
(or other flavorful liquid) 100% CD Whisk together.
see page 13 60g
Sherry vinegar 1.5g 20% 0 Combine.
Polysorbate 80 1.5g 0.5%
Xanthangum 150g 0.5% ® Disperse in stock mixture, and blend until fully hydrated.
Extra-virgin olive oil 50% @) Slowly blend into stock mixture until emuls ifi ed.
Walnut oil BOg 43 %
Grain mustard 20% ® Fold in.
Black peppercorns, 60g ® Season.
finely crushed to taste
Salt
from page 4·231 to taste
SAUCE VIN JAUNE Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING* PROCEDURE
200%
Chicken legs and wings, 400 g CD Saute chicken pieces in pressure cooke r until golden .
from above, cut into 0 Drain and reserve.
3 em / 1Y. in pieces
Clarified unsalted butter 75 g 37.5%
50%
Leeks, whites only, lOOg ® Cook together until vege tables are tender, about 30 min.
thinly sliced
Carrot, peeled and thinly 50g 25 %
sliced
Chicken carcass, 50g 25 %
chopped and blanched
Shallot, thinly sliced 50g 25 %
225%
Brown chicken stock 450g 2.5% @) Combine with brown e d wings and cooked vege tabl e mixture in pressure cooker.
see page 6 1% ® Cook at gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 Y> h.
60% ® Cool.
Thyme 5g
100% 0 Strain stock through fine sieve, and reserve .
Bay leaf 2g 0.2%
® Reduce to 30 g, a bout 12 min.
Vin jaune du jura 120g ® Add reserved stock.
(or Fino sherry) @) Reduce mixture to 200 g.
@ Cool.
Chicken stock reduction, 200 g @ Disperse PGA into stock reduction.
from above @ Bring to simm e r to fully hydrate.
@ Blend ch icken fat into stock reduction until fully e mulsified.
Propylene glycol a lginate 0.4 g
(Protanal Ester BV4830,
FMC Biopolymer brand)
Rendered chicken fat 40g 20%
Lemon juice to taste @ Season a nd serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
Salt to taste
from page 5·116 *(% oftotal weight ofstock reduction)
308 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
EGGLESS MAYONNAISE Yields400g
Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields420g
Water 200g 100%
Agar (Texturas brand) 1.2g 0.67% <D Disperse agar in water.
Sucrose esters 2g 1% 0 Bring to boil, and hold for1 min to fully hydrate.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Olive oil 200g ® Cool complete ly until set, aboutS min.
Mono- and diglycerides 2g
(Giice, Texturas brand) 0 Puree with set gel until smooth.
Salt to taste
100% ® Dissolve Gli ce flakes in o il heated to 50 oc I 122 °F.
from page 4·232 1%
® Gradually blend oil into cold agar mixture until emulsified.
0 Cool at room temperature.
® Refrigerate for 2 h before serving.
SPICE MIX EMULSION
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
20%
Unsalted butter 24g 10% <D Prepare ingredients as noted.
5% 0 Saute together over medium heat until fragrant.
Garlic, finely minced 12g 4%
100% ® Deglaze pan, and reduce mixture to 100 g.
Ginger, finely minced 6g
Anchovy fillets, finely minced Sg
Mussel juice 120g
see page 37
Manzanilla sherry 4Bg 40%
0.17 %
Xanthangum 0.2g (075%)* 0 Blend into reduction.
25%
Extra virgin olive oil 30 g ® Blend into reduction until emulsified .
Fish spice mix 20g 17% ® Season emulsion, and serve or refrigerate until use.
see page 51
Champagne vinegar to taste
from page 5·155 *( % oftotal weight ofmussel-sherry reduction and olive oil)
OLIVE OIL "MARGARINE"
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water BOg 31 %
l.BS g 0.7% <D Dry blend agar and propylene glycol alginate.
Propylene glycol alginate (0.44 %)*
(Protanal Ester BV 4B30, 1g 0 Disperse powder mixture into cold water.
FMC BioPolymer brand) 0.4%
Agar (Texturas brand) (0.24 %)* ® Bring mixture to boil to hydrate.
31 %
Pregelatinized starch paste BOg 0 Cool at room temperature until set.
see page 200 260 g
® Puree gel until smooth to form fluid gel.
Olive oil
® Blend into fluid gel.
100% 0 Warm to 30 oc I BS °F.
® Blend oil gradually into fluid gel slowly until emulsified.
Salt to taste ® Season and chill.
from page 4·235
*(% oftotal weight ofother ingredients)
EMUl SIONS 309
CONSTRUCTED CREAMS
PISTACHIO GELATO vields1.1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 680g 100%
Pistachio butter 210g 30.9% CD Blend until smooth.
see page 54
Sugar lSSg 22.8% 0 Dry blend, and disperse in pistachio mixture. If using a Pacojet in step 6,
Pistachio oil 102g 15% 0 Warm to 60 ·c I 140 •F. omit the locust bean gum.
Salt 22g 3.2% 0 Homoge nize until very smooth, a nd coo l.
3g 0.44%
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 ® Season with more sa lt, if desired.
Powder, TIC Gums brand) 2g 0 .3%
Lambda carrageenan ® Churn, and reserve in freezer; or freeze in Pacojet container, and pacotize to serve.
(Texturas brand) 0.8g 0.12%
Polysorbate 80 0.15g 0.02%
Glycerol monostearate
from page 4·236
HAZELNUT "CREAM" Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
250g 100%
Water 11.2 g 4 .48% CD Dry blend hydrocolloids other than polysorbate.
Tapioca starch 6g 2.4% 0 Disperse in co ld water, and blend in polysorbate.
Whey protein isolate O.Sg 0.2% 0 Homogen ize thoroughly with commercia l blender or rotor-stator homogenizer,
Citric acid 0.4g 0.16%
Polysorbate 80 0.16g 0.06% if ava ilab le.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand) 80g 0 Warm to 85 •c / 185 • F, and hold mixture at that temperature.
Roasted-hazelnut oil
see page 41 (or store-bought) 32% ® Warm oil to 85 •c / 185 •F.
® Drizzle into mixture w hil e shearing at full speed until fully emulsified, and then coo l.
Salt to taste
0 Season cream, and vacuum seal.
® Store refrigerated; serve hot or co ld.
from page 4·236
JUS GRAS Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
BOg 40%
Shallots, minced 20g 10 % CD Saute sha ll ots until go ld en, about 5 min.
lOOg 50%
Neutral oil SOg 25 % 0 Add to pan of sauteed shallots.
450g 225% 0 Reduce mixture to glaze.
Fino sherry 0 Combine with glaze in pot.
200g 100%
White port (dry) ® Reduce until syrupy, to about one-th ird of orig in a l we ight.
200g 100% ® Strain, and measure 200 g of reduced jus base.
Brown chicken stock
see page6 0.6g 0.3% 0 Disperse emulsifiers into reduced jus base.
So us vide ch icken juice ® Warm to hydrate PGA, and blend in commercial blender or rotor-stator homogenizer
see page34 until very smooth .
Reduced jus base, 0.4g 0.2% ® Drizzle slowly into warm jus, blending constantly until fully emulsified.
from above 0.4g 0.2% @ Season and serve. Or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Propylene glycol a lginate 80g 40%
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand) to taste
to taste
Liquid soy lecithin
(NOW brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Rendered chicken fat,
or butter, melted
see page 3-145
Sa lt
Lemon juice
from page 4·237
3 10 VOLU ME 6 ·K ITCHE N MA NU AL
NANOEMULSIONS
CHILLED CHICKEN-NOODLE SOUP Yields 1.2 kg (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
200%
Chicken thigh meat, ground 600g 100% CD Puree until smooth.
0 Pass through fine sieve.
White chicken stock 300g 3.3%
see page 6 and page 11 2 .7% ® Divide into 100 g portions.
0.05%
Salt lO g 0 Place eac h portion between two layers of plastic wrap, and roll even ly into layerl.5 mm I
Activa RM 8g ){6 in thick.
® Vacuum sea l sheets individually.
Sodium tripolyphosphate 0.15 g ® Cook so us vide in 62 "CI 144 "Fbath for12 min.
(Nutrifos 088, ICL Performance 0 Refrigerate sheets for 3 h.
® Remove from so us vide bags, and cut chill ed sheets into noodles 3 mm I Y. in thick,
Products brand)
yielding about 100 g per portion. Reserve.
Gum arabic 30g 10% ® Homogenize until smooth.
Bay essential oil 15g 5%
Thyme essential oil 15g 5% @ Blend 1.2 g of gum-oi l mixture into co ld consomme. Liquid w ill remain clear.
Consomme MadriiE'me 300g 100%
see page42 @ Season consomme.
Salt to taste @ Divide noodles among four bowls, forming nest in each.
Tarragon leaves (sma ll) to taste @ Pour consomme over noodles. Garnish chilled soup with leaves.
Thyme leaves to taste
from page 4·238
GINGER COLA Yields340 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Other sodas can be made in
Distilled water, cold 200g 100% a simil ar way by using a nano-
Ginger, peeled and grated 35g 17.5% CD Combine, and steep at room temperature for emu lsion with essential oi ls.
Stock or an infusion can be used
20 min. in place of the water.
0 Strain, and reserve 125 g of ginger water. "Open Co la" is a commercia l drink
with a published recipe (availab le
Ginger, thinly sliced a nd 300g 150% ® Combine, and simmer until sugar is dissolved. on the Internet) said to be in sp ired
by Coca-Cola. You can use that rec-
blanched three times in boiling 100% 0 Remove from heat, and steep at room ip e with the techniques described
60% here to make your own cola or to
water to remove bitterness temperature for 20 min. experiment with other ingredients.
Ferran Adria, Marc Veyrat, Jean-
Distilled water 200g ® Cool comp lete ly, and reserve 200 g of gin ger Georges Vongerichten, and anum-
syrup. ber of other chefs have featured
Sugar 120g homemade sodas in their
restaurants.
Gum arabic 20g 10% ® Blend to form smooth essentia l o il base.
Brominated vegetable oil 5g 2.5%
Lemon essentia l oil 5g 2 .5%
Sweet orange essential oil 5g 2 .5%
Vanilla extract 2.5g 1.25%
100%
Ginger syrup, from above 200g 0 Blend together until combined.
Ginger water, from above 125g 62.5% ® Pour mixture into soda siphon.
Lime juice 16 .5g 8.25g ® Vent w ith one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and
then cha rge with two cartrid ges.
Liquid caramel co lor 1.25 g 0.62%
0.16% @ Refrigerate siphon on ice for at least 3 h before
Essential o il base, from above 0.33g (0.7%)* serv ing.
from page 4·239 *(% oftotal weight ofginger water andginger syrup)
EMU LSIONS 3 11
FROTHS, AIRS, AND BUBBLES are relative to the weight of the liquid (for example, whip in 1.25 g of soy
lecithin for every 100 g of apple juice to make a dry, coarse apple air).
0 Select a texture, and choose your foaming agents. See the table below
® Process, using the tool suggested in the table, until the desired texture
for our recommendations. appears. All foams are heat stable unless otherwise noted.
0 Combine the foaming agents and the liquid. Many flavorful liquids,
including fruit juices and vinegars, foam well. The proportions given
Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths
Texture Foaming agents (scaling)* Equipment Notes Example See page
drainfor4min mignonette air next
dry, coarse airs de-oiled soy lecithin 1.25% handheld milk whipper
powder
Sucro 1.2% electric whisk milk foams
(Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 2% electric whisk disperse cold, then heat dairy foams
for 10 min at 40 oc / 104 oF
Activa RM 1%
wet, coarse glucose syrup DE 40 10% fish tank bubbler use liquids with a pH of honey bubbles 314
bubbles albumin powder 2% at least 4.5
xanthan gum 0.1%
wet, coarse froths de-oiled soy lecithin 1% hand blender allow liquid to drain for citrus air below
2 min before serving
xanthan gum 0.2%
Iight sweetness from
glucose syrup DE 40 8% handheld milk whipper glucose fruit and vegetable
juice foams
de-oiled soy lecithin 0.7%
powder
butter, melted 10%-20% hand blender foamy butter sauce
Sucro 1.2%
(Texturas brand)
whey protein isolate 2% handheld milk whipper heat-stable up to foamy broths, light
85 oC/185 oF soups
sodium caseinate 0.5%
heat-stable up to
sodium caseinate 1% handheld milk whipper 85 °C / 185 °F light, beer-like
foams
de-oiled soy lecithin 1% heat-stable up to
85 °C/185 °F
Sucro 1.2% handheld milk whipper latte style foams, 315
(Texturas brand) light milk shake
foams
whey protein isolate 1%
from page 4·264 *(set weight ofliquid to 700%)
CITRUS AIR INSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields 80 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Marc Veyrat found that increasing
Lime juice 120g 100% the viscos ity of lecithin foams
Lemon juice 80g 67% 0 Combine and blend until sugar, lecithin, and prevents them from losing so much
Sugar 8g 6.7% water and therefore gives them
Salt 2g 1.7% xanthan are dissolved. a better final texture and appear-
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 2g 1.7% ance. This can be done either with
(Lecite, Texturas brand) (7%)* 0 Whip with handheld foaming wand or hand a hydrocolloid thickener such as
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g xanthan gum or with dissolved
CP Kelco brand) blender until sufficient foam is formed. solids such as sugar.
from page 4·265
® Al low to drain for 2 min for foam to stabi li ze.
0.3%
(0.2 %)*
*(% oftotal weight oflime and lemon juices)
312 VO LUM E 6 ·KI TC HEN MAN UAL
OYSTERS WITH MIGNONETTE AIR INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
50%
Water 200g 37.5% CD Blend.
12.5% 0 Refrigerate for 1 h to mace rate.
Sherry vinegar 150g
® Strain, yielding 400 g of vinegar mixture.
Seaweed vinegar 50g Soy lecithin-base d "airs" are
see page 23 considered dry foams because
most of the water that is us ed
Shallots, thinly sliced 50 g 12.5% to create the foam drains away
12.5% very quickly. Once the water
White balsamic vinegar 50 g 1.25% drains away, there is very little left
but a coarse matrix of bubbles.
Black pepper, coarsely ground 5 g These types offoams should a lways
be mad e with very inte nse flavors
Salt to taste for their imp act to be more th an
simply aesthet ic.
Vinegar mixture, from above 400 g 100% @ Blend until lec ithin powder is fully dissolved .
1.25%
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 5 g ® Whip with hand blender or handheld whipping
(lecite, Texturas brand) wand until thick and coarse foam forms.
Kumamoto oysters four oysters ® Allow foam to drain for 2 min to stabilize.
from page 4·265
0 Garnish with foam .
PARSLEY FOAM Yields265g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Parsley juice 100%
265 g CD Blend together until powder is thoroughly incorporated.
Deoiled soy lecithin (from about 1.5%
powder 500 g parsley)
Salt
4g
from page 5·231
1g 0 .4% 0 Season juice.
® Foam juice with immersion blender or hand he ld wand mixer (see page 4·252 for step by step).
KANPACHI SASHIMI WITH CITRUS FOAM INSPIRED BY QUIQUE DACOSTA Yields 320 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
White fish stock 500g CD Combine.
see page 6 6% 0 Heat stock to 60 "C I 140 •F, and hold for12 min.
lemongrass, finely 30g 1.4% ® Strain infused stock into open container.
chopped 1%
0.7% @ Cool completely.
lemon verbena (fresh) 7g 0.15 %
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaves 5 g
lemon zest 3.5g
White peppercorns, 0.75g
crushed
Sucrose esters 1.5g 0.3% ® Blend into cold, infused stock.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Salt to taste ® Season stock generously.
lemon juice to taste 0 Foam citrus-seasoned stock with fish tank bubbl er.
Kanpachi (raw), thinly 200g 40% ® Arrange fish on center of four plates, 50 g on each plate.
sliced
Kumquats, thinly sliced 40g 8% ® Garnish.
0.8%
Mint leaves, torn 4g 10% @ Pour around fish.
@ Garnish each portion with citrus foam.
So us vide ponzu 50g
see page22
from page 4-269
FOAMS 313
GEODUCK WITH SEAWATER FOAM Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Geoduck juice, reserved 200 g 100%
from shucking CD Blend with hand blender until powders are fully in corporated.
Water 50g 25% 0 Wh ip with handheld whipping wand until stiff seawater foam forms at liquid 's surface.
White soy sauce 35 g 17.5%
Sodium caseinate 2.5g 1.25% ® Slice thinly.
(1%)*
De-oiled soy lecithin 2.5 g 1.25% 0 Divide equally, and arrange on center of each plate.
(1%)*
powder(Texturas brand) 25%
Geoduck siphon, cleaned, 200 g
peeled, and trimmed
see page 5·200
Fico"ide glaciale (ice plant) 40 g 5% ® Garnish.
5% ® Spoon some seawater foam on top of each portion.
Pickled ramps, thinly 40 g
sliced
see pagel78
from page 4·266 *(% oftotal weight offirst three ingredients)
EDIBLE SOAP BAR WITH HONEY BUBBLES ADAPTED FROM AN DONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 1 kg 100%
Wildflower honey 150g 15% CD Blend fully with hand blender.
Albumin powder 20g 2% 0 Strain.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1g 0.1 %
CP Kelco brand) ® Vacuum seal to remove accumulated bubbles.
Salt 0.5g
All-purpose flour, sifted 110g 0 Refrigerate honey bubble base.
Hazelnut flour 40g 0.05% ® Arrange in thin, even layer on baking sheet.
11%
Sugar 30g ® Bake at 170 "C I 340 "F until golden brown, about 20 min.
4% 0 Combine, and whisk into warm, browned all-purpose flour.
Salt 3g 3%
0.3% ® Combine.
Rendered ham fat, melted 40 g 4%
3% ® Fold into flour mixture.
Cocoa butter, melted 30 g 3%
@ Pour into small rectangular silicone molds that resemble bars of soap.
Olive oil 30 g @ Freeze "soap" bars complete ly, about 30 min.
® To serve, transfer honey bubble base to open container.
@ Place aquarium bubbler tube at bottom of container.
@ Turn on bubbler, and leave until desired amount of bubbles have accumulated, about 5 min.
@ Arrange soap bar in center of each plate, and garnish with bubbles.
from page 4·267
SAFFRON HONEY FOAM Yields150g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, warm 100 g 100%
Saffron threads 0.4g 0.4% CD Combine.
Honey 36g 36% 0 Infuse for10 min at room temperature.
Deoiled soy lecithin 1.4 g 1.4%
powder ® Combine w ith saffron water.
Whey protein isolate 0.2g
Salt to taste 0 Blend until completely incorporated.
0.2%
® Season generously to compensate for aeration.
® Whip with handheld whipping wand until abundant foam forms on surface.
0 Allow to drain for1 min before using.
from page 5·94
314 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
LYCHEE AND LIME SODA Yields 200 g (four servings)
INSPIRED BY SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING CD Season lychee juice. You can use store-bought lychee
Lychee juice, clarified 200g 500% 0 Reserve refrigerated. juice if you wish, but we prefer
Fructose to taste fresh. For methods of clarifying
Malic acid to taste 100% ® Combine to form lime base. fresh fruit juice, see page 2·351.
Dextrose 40g 37.5% @ Grind into fine powder with mortar and pestle.
Baking soda 15g 37.5% This dish makes tablets reminiscent
Citric acid 15g 0.1 % ® Add slowly to lime base, incorporating small amount of Alka-Seltzer, which produces a
Lime essential oil 0.05g 17.5% at a time; make sure mixture does not foam. fizzy drink when dissolved in water.
Water 7g
® Pack into circular molds (2.5 em 1 1 in. in diameter and
Lime tablets, from above four tablets
2.5 mm I 1 in high). This will produce 3 g tablets. Store
in cool, dry place.
0 To serve, pour 50 g of lychee juice into each offour
serving glasses.
® Add one lime tablet to each glass; tablet fizzes as it
dissolves.
® Allow to dissolve completely before consuming soda.
from page 4·268
TOMATO VINEGAR FOAM Yields12sg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomato water 1 kg 100%
see page40 CD Reduce to 125 g.
White wine vinegar 150g 14%
Salt 2.5g 0.24% 0 Add to reduced tomato water.
Saffron threads 1g 0.1 %
® Cool.
Whey protein isolate 2g 0.2% @ Vacuum seal.
Deoiled soy lecithin 1g 0.1 % ® Refrigerate for12 h to infuse.
® Whisk into infused tomato water until dissolved.
0 Heat mixture to 35 ·c I 95 •F.
® Whip mixture with handheld wand mixer until thick foam forms.
® Allow foam to drain for1 min before using.
from page 5·65
CAPPUCCINO FOAM INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
2%milk 500g 20% CD Combine.
0 Vacuum seal.
Coffee beans, coarsely 100g 8%
crushed 2% ® Refrigerate for12 h to infuse.
0.2% @ Strain coffee milk, discarding coffee beans and cardamom seeds, and measure 350 g
Sugar 40g 100%
1.2% for recipe.
Glucose syrup DE 40 lOg 1%
® Dry blend powders, and disperse in infused milk.
Black cardamom seeds 1 g ® Place in beaker of milk shake whipper; process until very frothy.
Infused milk, from above 400 g
Sucrose esters (Sucro, 4.8g
Texturas brand) 4g
Whey protein isolate
from page 4·266
FOAMS 315
LIGHT FOAMS
CD Select the recipe that matches the temperature and bubble size ® Hydrate, using the temperature and time given. This is not required for
co ld-solubl e foaming agents.
you want.
@ Chill or heat the liquid to serving temperature.
0 Measure the ingredients carefu lly, and combine the foaming agents with
® To serve, aerate the mixture with a whisk or mixer. Alternatively, pour
the liquid . Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For examp le, to make a the liquid into a 11 whipping siphon, pressurize by using the number
hot, coarse foam, add 0.35 g of xanthan gum and 0.20 g of guar gum for of nitrous oxide cartridges suggested in the table, and dispense.
every 100 gof liquid.
Best Bets for Light Foams
Serving Bubble Hydrate Nitrous
oxide
temperature size Foaming agents (scaling)* (oc) (oF) (min) Foaming method charges Example See page
1% 60 140 5 siphon blood orange foam next
cold fine 160 Bloom gelatin 2
160 Bloom gelatin 0.90% 60 140 5 siphon 2-3 corn foam 318
xanthan gum 0.27%
albumin powder 10% cold electric whisk 3 light coating foam
or siphon
coarse xanthan gum 0.7% cold siphon 3 lemon verbena and 318
peach froth
xanthan gum 0.20% 95 203 3 siphon 2 cava foam 327
agar** 0.25%
hot and cold fine low-acyl gellan** 0.3% 95 203 3 siphon 2 eggless sabayon, warm,
beer-like foam
agar** 0.4% 95 203 3 siphon 2
egg yolk** 29.0% 70 158 30 siphon 3 bergamot sabayon 319
Maltrin M100 5.5%
coarse xanthan gum 0.25% cold siphon 3 dairy-free milk shake
guargum 0.15%
from page 4·270 *(set weight ofliquid to 100%); **(makefluid gel before.filling siphon)
HORCHATA FOAM Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chufa nuts 450g 225%
CD Cover nuts with water.
Water 250g 125% 0 Soak in refrigeratorfor12 h.
Sugar 16g 8%
® Drain.
Chufa milk, co ld, 200g 100% @ Combine with soaked nuts.
from above 3% ® Blend to smooth, fine texture.
Deoiled soy lecithin 6g 0.7% ® Pass through fine sieve to extract chufa milk.
Whey protein isolate 1.4g
Salt as needed 0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until cold.
® Disperse soy lecithin and whey protein isolates in milk.
® Blend thoroughly.
@ Season chufa milk.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
@ To serve, foam horchata with handheld foaming wand or immersion blender until thick foam
layer forms.
from page 5·244
316 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
WHIPPED CHEESE INSPIRED BY ALEX STUPAK YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Gruyere water SOOg 100%
seepage20 to taste 0 Season cheese w ater.
Salt 20g 0 Reserve.
Maltrin M100 1.25 g
(GPC brand) 4% ® Dry blend powders.
Iota carragee nan 0.75g
(Genuvisco ), CP Kelco SOOg 0.25% Alex Stupak aerates a carrageenan
brand) flu id gel as it is setting. This process
Lambda carrageenan 0.14% @) Disperse powder mixture in co ld milk. is quite versatile and can be
(Texturas brand) 100% ® Bring to simmer, and remove from heat. adapted to make various aerated
Cheese-infused milk, ® While st ill warm, pour into standing mixer, and whip textures that are not dependent on
from above a wh ipp ing siphon .
at hi gh speed until stiff foam forms and becomes cold.
from page 4·272 G) Spoo n in to piping bag, and pipe to ord er. This basic formu la can be used for
any co ld foam.
BLOOD ORANGE FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
160 Bloom gelatin 2.5g 1%
Blood orange juice 250g 100% 0 Disperse into 50 g of cold juice and heat until gelatin is
from page 4·272 fu ll y dissolved.
0 Combine w ith remaining co ld juice. Strain.
® Transfer to siphon, and charge with one nitrous oxide
c a r t r id ge.
@) Refrigerate siph on for at least 2 h before use.
MILK FOAM QUANTITY SCALING YieldsSOO g
SOOg 100%
INGREDIENT 75g 15% PROCEDURE
Skim milk
SOg 10% 0 Vacuum sea l together.
Leeks, whites on ly, 0 Cook so us vide in 85 •c / 185 •Fbath for1 h.
thinly sli ced 35 g
Button mushrooms, ® Strain.
gills and skin removed, 25g @) Reserve hot.
thinly sli ced
Turnip, peeled and 7g 7% ® Blend together.
thinly sliced 0 .75g
Sweet onions, thin ly 3.5g 5% ® Shear into strained hot milk mixture.
sli ced
Garlic, thinly sli ced 1.75 g 1.5% G) Coo l, and vacuum sea l.
0.15 %
Thyme 0.7% ® Refrigerate milk foam for12 h to hydrate.
Sucrose este rs ® Warm infu sed milk to room temperature, and foam
(Sucro, Texturas brand) 0.35%
Methocel FSO with handh eld milk frother un til ab und ant amount of
(Dow brand) foam forms on surface of m ilk, about 2 min. Allow to
drain for1 min, and then use as garnish.
from page 5·33
FOAMS 317
LEMON VERBENA AND PEACH FROTH ADAPTED FROM QUI QUE DACOSTA Yields700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 800g 114%
Dried peaches 200g 28.5% CD Combine.
7% 0 Bring to boil.
lemon verbena (fresh) 50g ® Cool to 60 oc I 140 °F, and hold.
100%
Peach infusion, from 700 g 0.7% @ Add.
above 5g ® Cover, and steep at 60 oc / 140 °F for 3 min .
as needed ® Strain through fine sieve, measuring 700 g of peach infusion.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand) 0 Cool completely.
Seasonal herbs and ® Blend until mixture thickens.
blossoms ® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
from page 4·273 @ Shake vigorously, and dispense in desired amounts.
@ Garnish.
CORN FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Corn juice
110 g 100% CD Combine xanthan gum with 55 g of corn juice.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand) (from 250 g corn
160 Bloom gelatin
Heavy cream kernels)
Salt
0.4 g 0.4% 0 Disperse gelatin into remaining 55 g of corn juice.
from page 4·273 1g (0.27%)*
40g 0.9% ® Heat until fully dissolved.
{0.7%)*
0 Combine cream with corn juice and gelatin mixtures.
36%
® Strain.
to taste ® Season corn cream.
0 Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
® Refrigerate for at least 3 h before use.
*(% oftotal weight ofother ingredients)
BLOOD ORANGE SABAYON Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 75 g 29% CD Sweat until tender, about 7 min .
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 19%
173%
White wine (dry) 450 g 0 Add to shallots, and reduce to 120 g.
The spray-dried blood orange juice White wine vinegar 20 g 7.7% ® Reserve.
can be purchased from Obipektin, 100%
or see page 2-443 for a recipe. Blood orange juice 260 g 0 Reduce orange juice to 30 g.
Unsalted butter, melted 62 g 24% ® Combine with shallot and orange juice reductions to
18.5% make sabayon base.
Egg yolk, cooked in 69 oc ; 48 g
156 °F bath for 35 min 15% ® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon.
Spray-dried blood orange 40 g 0 Warm sabayon-filled siphon in 65 oc / 150 °F bath for
juice
at least 20 min.
Heavy cream 38g 14.6% ® Charge siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
lemon juice 15 g 5.8% ® Shake vigorously and dispense to serve.
Salt 4g 1.5%
Xanthangum 0.2g 0.08%
(0.06%)*
from page 5·148 *( % oftoto/ weight ofshallot and orangejuice reductions and other
base ingredients)
318 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
SOUS VIDE SOLE WITH BERGAMOT SABAYON Yields 900 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vermouth (dry) 100g 40%
Champagne vinegar SOg 20% CD Combine.
Shallots, finely minced SOg 20% 0 Reduce to syrup.
Egg yolks, blended 208g 83.2% ® Strain, discarding shallot bits.
(65%)* @) Measure 25 g of wine reduction, and set aside.
Cream sherry 30g 12%
10% ® Cook so us vide in 70 oc I 158 °Fbath for 35 min, and reserve.
Fino sherry 2Sg 3%
100% ® Vacuum seal together.
Earl Grey tea leaves 7.5 g
18% 0 Infu se in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for 6 min.
White fish stock 250g 10%
see page6 ® Strain, reserving tea infusion.
® Combine.
@ Blend with cooked egg yolks until smooth to make sabayon base.
Tea infusion, from above 4Sg
Wine reduction, from 2Sg
above
Maltrin MlOO 1Sg 6%
(GPC brand)
Bergamot essential oil 0.1 g 0.04% @ Season sabayon base generous ly.
Cayenne pepper to taste @ Transfer to 1 Iwhipping siphon, and charge with two ca rtridges of nitrous oxid e.
Lemon juice to taste @ Hold filled siphon in 62 oc I 144 °Fbath to reserve.
Salt to taste
Black mussels, live 250g 100% @ Vacuum seal in one even layer.
(24small)
@ Submerge in boilingwaterfor 3 min.
@ Shock in ice water, and remove from bag.
@ Shuck, reserving juices in bag and shells.
@ Strain juice over shucked mussels.
@ Refrigerate mussels.
Rex sole, skin removed four whole v a r ies @ Vacuum seal each sole individually with 10 g of butter.
(small) 16%
@ Cook sole packets so us vide in 47 oc I 117 °Fbath to core temperature of 46 oc I 115 °F, about
Clarified unsalted butter 40 g
see page 4·213 30min.
@ Remove from packets, and place one fish on each serving plate.
@ Warm mussels in small pot.
Salt to taste @ Season sole.
one whole
Bergamot (fresh) @ Garnish w ith sabayon and mussels.
from page 4·274
@ Grate zest finely over sole to finish. Serve w ith crispy potatoes or potato puree.
*( % oftotal weight ofstock, tea infusion, and wine reduction)
COCONUT-LOBSTER EMULSION Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
600g 100%
Spiced shellfish stock CD Reduce to 90 g.
see page 9 4.2%
@ Cool.
Coconut cream powder 25 g ® Whisk into reduced stock.
(store-bought)
to taste @) Season stock.
White soy sauce 0.86g
0.15% ® Disperse into co ld stock.
Locust bean gum (TIC (0.75%)*
Gums brand) ® Bring to boil to hydrate, and remove from heat.
0.4%
Whey protein isolate 2.3g (2%)* 0 Whisk into stock until dissolved.
® Foam coconut-lobster emulsion with steam wand of espresso machine (see page 319), or heat
wh il e whipping w ith handheld milk frother until dense, wet foam forms .
from page 5·187 *(% oftotal weight ofshellfish stock reduction and coconut cream powder)
FO AMS 319
MUSHROOM AND BACON CAPPUCCINO INSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Smoked bacon, thinly 100g 50% @ Fry in dry nonstick pan until go ld en, aboutlO min.
sliced
Heavy cream 60g 30% 0 Add to bacon, and simmer for 20 min.
Water 20g 10%
® Strain cream through fine sieve.
White pork stock, cold 200 g 100% @ Cool.
see page6 ® Measure 75 g of bacon cream.
® Whisk together, and season generously to compensate for aeration.
Bacon cream, from above 75 g 37.5%
7.5%
Whole milk, cold 15 g
Salt to taste
Agar (Texturas brand) 2g 1% 0 Disperse in cold stock and cream mixture.
(0.7%)* ® Heat to 95 ' C I 203 ' F, and hold for 3 min to fully hydrate.
Mushroom jus 200 g
see page 37 100% ® Pour into conta in er, and allow to set, about 5 min.
@ Puree to fluid ge l, and transferto 1 I whipping siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of nitrous ox id e.
@ Heat siphon in 50 ' C I 122 ' F bath for 15 min to make bacon foam .
@ Combine, and simmer for 2 min.
Madeira 15 g 7.5%
2.5%
Dry shiitake, thinly sliced 5 g 0.5%
5% @ Blend into hot mushroom jus mixture.
Star anise lg
@ Pour into cups or bowls.
Coffee butter lOg @ Garnish with bacon foam .
see page350 *( % oftoto/ weight ofcold stock and cream mixture)
from page 4·275
POACHED APPLE WITH PECORINO FOAM Yields 450 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
163 % @ Combine, and vacuum sea l.
Whole milk 650g 88%
0 Infu se, refrigerated, for12 h.
Pecorino Romano, grated 350g 100%
® Strain through fine sieve, and measure 400 g infused milk.
Cheese infused milk, 400g 25%
from above 0.25% 0 Blend until smooth.
Heavy cream lOOg
Lambda carrageenan lg 100% ® Season cheese mixture.
Salt to taste ® Transfer to 1 Iwhipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
25%
Pink Lady apples, peeled, 200g 25% 0 Vacuum seal each app le half individually with equa l quantities of cider, butter, bay leaf, and
0.05%
cored, and halved (two medium) 0 .05 % vanilla seeds.
Hard apple cider 50g ® Cook so us vid e in 80 ' C I 176 ' Fbath for 2 h.
Unsalted butter 50g ® Strain app les over small pot to catch cook ingju ices.
@ Reduce juices to glaze.
Bay leaf, thinly sliced O.lg @ Serve warm app les with warm app le glaze, cool Pecorino Romano foam, and toasted brioche.
Vanilla seeds and pulp, O.lg
scraped from pod
from page 4·276
320 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
GRAPEFRUIT AND BLACK PEPPER ADAPTED FROM DANIEL PATTERSON Yields 1.1 kg (12 servings)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For grapefru it-b lack pepper sorbet:
Sugar 60g 12% 0 Dry blend.
1.2%
Pectin lM-104 (CP Kelco 6g 0 Combine 100 g of grapefruit juice with the glucose, sorbito l, and sugar-pectin mixture.
brand) 6%
6% ® Bring to boil to form syrup, strain through fine ch in ois, and ch ill over ice.
Glucose 30g 100%
0 Combine remaining 400 g of grapefru it juice with ch ill ed syrup, and season.
Sorbitol 30g
® Strain through fin e sieve, and freeze in Pacojet beaker to make grapefruit sorbet.
Grapefruit juice (fres h) SOOg
Salt to taste
lemon juice to taste
For grapefruit mousse:
Grapefruit juice 41Sg 83% ® Comb in e juices.
lemon juice 30g 6% 0 Mix in essent ial oil s.
Ginger essential oil one drop
Black pepper essential oil three drops
Grapefruit essential oil four drops
160 Bloom gelatin 14g 2.8% ® Disperse in cold water.
3% ® Combine in pot, and add enough juice mixture to cover.
Hon ey 1Sg 10% @ Gently warm; add gelatin, stirring until dissolved.
@ Comb in e with remainingju ice mixture, and chill over ice.
Sugar SOg @ When completely set, puree in blender until fluid, and pass through fine sieve.
@ Transfer to 1 I siph on, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Refrigerate.
Pink grapefru it one whole
Tarragon, fine julienne as needed @ Cut in to supremes. Slice sections on bias in 1 em I Y2 in segments.
Simple syrup to taste
Cognac to taste @ To serve, season grapefruit segments.
lemon juice to taste @ Pacotize so rbet once more.
from page 4·276 @ Place spoonful of segments in bottom of each bowl.
@ Top with quenelle of sorbet, and cover with mousse.
FOAMS 321
THICK FOAMS
CD Select a se rving temperature and foaming agents. The table below ® Disperse a nd heat the liquid (not required for cold-soluble solutions).
See th e table for appropriate times and tempe ratures.
suggests multipl e formulations for creating cold and hot foams, both
with and without fat. @ Heat or cool the liquid to serving temperature.
0 Measure the ingredients carefully, and combin e th e foaming agent with ® To se rve, aerate the mixture with an electric whisk or mixer or use a
siphon to ex pand it. Siphoning does not work well with very thick liquids;
the liquid. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For exa mple, to make the uppe r limit is about the thickness of mayo nna is e.
whipped cara me l, add 1g ofVersawhip and 0.15 g of xanthan gum for
every 100 g of ca ramel.
Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams
Service Hydrate Foaming Nitrous oxide
temperature Foaming agents
(scaling)** (•c) (• F) (min) method charges Example
cold 160 Bloom ge latin 1.5% 60 140 5 siphon 2-3 thick fruit and vegetable juice foams
Ve rsawhip 1.00% cold electric whisk n/a shaving cream-like foam,
whipped caramel
xanthan gum 0.15 %
albumin powder 14% room 20 siphon 2 savory and sweet mousses
isomalt or sugar 10% temp.
pregelatinized 5% 60 140 5 siphon 2 whipped puddings
starch paste
160 Bloom gelatin 1.2%
hot and cold low-acyl gellan* 0.8% 95 203 3 siphon 2-3 coconut chutney foam,
hot whipped cream
agar* 1.0% 95 203 3 siphon
3 thick, hot whipped cream;
xanthan gum 0.2% hot whipped topping
methylcel lulose F50 1.00% 100 212 5 electric whisk n/ a eggless sabayon
xanthan gum 0.15% 3 potato and other starch foa ms
Ultra-Sperse 5 4.0% 80 176 10 siphon 1-2 hot whipped cream
iota carrageenan* 0.4%
albumin powder 7.0% room 20 siphon
xanthan gum 0 .2% temp.
from page 4·278 *(makefluid gel beforefoaming) ; **(set weight ofliquid to 700%)
CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY ADAPTED FROM HERVE THIS YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE The same procedure used here can
Semisweet chocolate 300 g 100% also be used to make chantilly-style
(50% cocoa), chopped into CD Vacuum seal. foams of camembert, fo ie gras,
small chunks 200g 67% 0 Warm so us vide in 50 •c I 122 • F bath until or butte r. For foie gras, use 200 g
Water of melted foi e gras for eve ry 100 g
comp lete ly mel ted; reserve. of water or flavorful liquid. For
from page 4281 butter, use 100 g of butter and 4 g
® Pour into bowl set ove r ice-water bath. of ge latin for every 20 g of water.
@ Inco rporate chocolate into wate r gradually with
e lec tric whisk.
® Whip at high speed to form dense foam, about
S min .
® Refrigerate foam until ready to se rve.
322 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
Note See page
allow gelatin to set for at least 3 h before serving 327
do not use with liquids containing fat
200
make fluid gel before foaming; needs source of calcium for 325
best results; if gellan does not hydrate, see page 4·129
see page 4·170 for the hydration procedure
for methylcellulose
reheating base will increase viscosity considerably
do not heat above 60 oc I 140 ° F
INSTANT SWISS MERINGUE Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg whites lOOg 100%
Sugar lOOg 100% CD Beat whites into sugar.
0 Vacuum seal mixture.
® Cook so us vide in 74 oc I 165 °Fbath for 30 min.
0 Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with four cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Dispense for use as soft meringues.
@ To set meringues, dispense on silicone mat, and bake in 150 oc I 300 °Foven forlYz h.
from page 4·284
FOAMS 323
EGGPLANT FOAM ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA Yields 950 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Ita li a n eggpla nt 200%
1 kg CD Roast w ho le at 190 ' C I 375 ' Funtil c harred a nd thorough ly cooked, about 1'/2 h.
(about two 100% 0 Cut open, and scoop o ut fl es h while still hot. Discard seeds and sk in.
e g g p lants)
50% ® Puree fl esh, a nd pass through fine sieve. Measure 500 g of puree.
Charred eggplant puree, 500g 5% @ Blend.
from above (3.3%)*
0.3% ® Strain through fine sieve.
Heavy crea m 250g (0.2%)* ® Pour into 11 whipping sipho n.
Albumin powder 25 g 0 Warm sipho n in 50 ' C I 122 ' F bath for15 min.
Xantha n g um (Ke ltrol T, 1.5g 40% ® Grill for 2 min on each sid e until just cooked through, and season.
CP Kelco brand) ® Garnish grill ed sard in es with foam a nd remaining ingred ie nts .
Salt to taste 2%
Fresh sardines, 200g 1%
cleaned and gutted (four fish)
Sumac lOg
Mint leaves 5g
Olive oil to taste
from page 4·280 *(%oftotal weight ofheavy cream and eggplant puree)
BAKED POTATO FOAM Yields400 g
Baked potato foam is a lighter INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
alternative to potato puree. In this 500g 200%
version, we use a broth made with Yukon Gold potatoes, CD Simmer until tender.
baking soda to enhance the baked peeled and thinly sli ced 60% 0 Press through fine tam is.
flavor, but a potato sk in infu sion
cou ld be used in stead (see page 19). Baked potato broth, cold 150 g 0.5% ® Measure 250 g of puree, and keep warm.
We use o li ve o il as a fat in this see page 19 (0.2%)* @ Disperse iota carragee nan and xanthan gum into
recipe, but melted butter cou ld be 0.4%
substituted. Iota carragee nan (Genuvisco j, 1.25 g (0.16%)* broth.
CP Kelco brand) 50%
Hot potato foams were first made 14% ® Heat mixture to 95 ' C I 203 ' F, and hold for 3 min
by Ferran Adria, who made them Xanthan g um (Ke ltrol T, 1g 100%
with just potato and water. We find CP Kelco brand) to fu ll y hydrate.
that add ing some thickness w ith ® Re move from heat.
xanthan and a fluid ge l improves Heavy cream 125 g
the texture. In th is recipe, we use 0 Blend into warm broth.
iota carragee nan, but agar or ge ll an Olive oil 35 g
wou ld a lso work here. ® Fold in cream a nd broth mixture.
Yukon Gold potato puree, 250g
from above
Sa lt to taste ® Season.
@ Transfer to 1 I wh ip pin g siphon, and charge with
from page 4·281
one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Hold in 60 ' C I 140 ' F bath until needed .
*(%oftotal weight ofbakedpotato broth, heavy cream, olive ail, and
prepared potato puree)
HOT BUTTER FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADR IA Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg whites
4Sg 18% CD Blend until smooth, and stra in .
Egg yo lks (about one 0 Vacuum sea l, and cook so us vid e in 70 ' C I 158 ' F bath for 30 min.
Unsalted butter, melted large white)
Sa lt ® Blend into egg mixture .
3Sg 14% @ Season.
from page 4 ·283 (abo ut two yo lks) ® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
250g 100% ® To serve, warm siphon in 60 ' C I 140 ' F bath, and dispense foam. Serve with gril led bread or
to taste steamed potatoes.
324 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
COCONUT CHUTNEY FOAM Yields4oog
Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
4%
Cilantro leaves 8g 2% CD Puree herbs in food processor to fine paste.
1% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Mint leaves 4g
® Measure 10 g of herb puree.
Green chili (fresh), thinly 2g
sliced
Coconut cream 200g 100% 0 Blend.
100%
Coconut milk (stabilizer 200g
free)
Herb puree, from above 20g 10%
Salt to taste 1.7% ® Season coconut herb cream.
(0.8%)* ® Combine.
Low-acyl gel lan 3.4g
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
Sodium citrate 0.6g 0.3%
10%
Water, cold 20g 0 Disperse gellan mixture in water.
® Wh isk gellan water into herb cream to form foam base.
® Bring to simmer while blend ing to fully hydrate.
@) Remove from heat, and pour foam base into mold.
@ Refrigerate until fully set, about 10 min.
@ Blend set gel to fine puree.
@ Place in siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Warm siphon in 60 ' C I 140 ' Fbath for 15 min, and serve .
from page 4·282 *(%oftotal weight ofcoconut cream, herb puree, and water)
SUET MOUSSELINE (THICK)
INGRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White beefstock 350g 100%
CD Combine, and reduce to 100 g.
see page 6 250g 71%
White wine (dry) SSg 16% ® Strain .
Shallot, finely minced 3Sg 10% ® Cool.
White wine vinegar 0.7g 0.2%
Black pepper 75g 21% 0 Measure 75 g.
Wine reduction,
from above SOg 14.5% ® Disperse gellan in cream.
Heavy cream, cold 1.2g 0.3% ® Blend thickened cream with wine reduction.
Low-acyl gellan (0.3%)*
(Kelcogel Fbrand) 0 Vacuum seal.
® Hydrate in 85 ' C I 185 ' F bath for 5 min.
® Cool until set. Puree to fluid gel.
Egg yolks, cooked sous 90g 26% @) Blend with fluid gel.
vide in 62 ' C I 144 ' Fbath
for35 min
Rendered beef suet, 200g 57% @ Warm fluid gel mi xture and suet separately in 62 ' C I 144 ' Fbath.
vacuum-sealed
@ Blend warm suet into fluid gel until fully emulsified .
Lemon juice to taste @ Season mixture generously.
@ Pour into 1 I siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
Salt to taste
@ Hold in 62 ' C I 144 ' Fbath until use.
from page 5·8
*(%oftoto/ weight ofheavy cream, wine reduction, egg yolks, and beefsuet)
FOAMS 325
DAIRY-FREE WHIPPED CREAM Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
100%
Water, or flavorful liquid 200 g 0.5% 0 Dry blend powders, and disperse in co ld water.
0 Bring to boil for1 min to fully hydrate.
Cellulose gum (Cekol LVD, 1 g 0.4%
CP Kelco brand) ® Remove from heat, and blend over ice until set.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.8 g 0 Puree until smooth to make fluid gel.
(Protanal Ester BV 4104,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Agar(Texturas brand) 0.4g 0.2%
30%
Neutral oil, or any 60g ® Combine, and heat to 65 ' C I 105 ' Fto dissolve flakes.
flavored oil or fat 2.1%
@ Slowly drizzle warm oil mixture into fluid gel, blending co nstantly, until fully emu lsified .
Glice (Texturas brand) 4.2g
or glycerin flakes 0 Cool comp letely, and pour mixture into 11 whipping siphon.
(Terraspice brand)
® Simmer for 2 min, a nd remove from heat. Cool.
® Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate until use.
from page 4·283
CAULIFLOWER FOAM Yi e lds450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
Whole milk 375 g 94%
Cauliflower trimmings 300g 75% 0 Simmertogetherfor20 min.
Water 175 g 44% 0 Remove from heat, and infuse at room temperature for45 min.
Cauliflower, thinly sliced 500g 125% ® Strain.
5%
Clarified brown butter 20g 4% 0 Measure 400 g of cau liflower milk, and refrigerate.
100%
Cocoa butter (food grade) 15 g ® Brown cau lifl ower sli ces in butters until very dark and nutty aroma is released.
0.25% @ Puree, and pass through fine sieve.
Cauliflower milk, cold 400g
from above 0 Measure 50 g of puree, and reserve.
Low-acyl gellan 1g ® Disperse gums in cau liflower milk .
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand) ® Heat to 95 ' C I 203 ' F, and hold at temperature for 3 min to fully hydrate.
@ Refrigerate until gel is set, about 5 min .
Locust bean gum 0.4g 0.1 %
(TIC Gums brand) 6.3%
Browned cauliflower 25g @ Puree with gel led cau lifl ower milk until smooth.
puree, from above
@ Season pureed mixture.
Salt to taste
@ Load mixture into siphon, and warm in 70 ' C I 158 ' Fwater bath for 15 min.
@ Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, shake vigorously, and dispense to serve.
from page 5·283
FRIED EGG FOAM Yields220g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
Egg whites 60g 100%
Grapeseed oil 30g 50% 0 Fry egg whites until go ld en brown.
0 Drain oil, pat dry, and reserve.
Heavy cream, co ld BOg 217 %
160 Bloom gelatin 2.4g 4% ® Disperse gelatin in cream.
Black pepper, ground to taste 0 Bring to simmer to dissolve gelatin fully.
to fine powder to taste
® Blend in fried egg whites.
Salt
@ Season egg and cream mixture.
0 Press through fine sieve, a nd transfer to 11 whipping siphon.
® Charge egg cream-fi ll ed siphon with two nitrous oxide cartrid ges.
® Warm siphon in 62 ' C I 144 ' Fbath, about 15 min.
@ Shake siphon thoroughly, and dispense to serve.
from page 5·212
326 VOLUME 6 · KI TCHEN MANUAL
HORSERADISH FOAM INSPIRED BY WYLIE DU FRESNE Yie lds400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
400 g 100%
Water 150g 37.5% CD Blend.
Fresh horse rad ish, 0 Strain.
finely grated 400g
Horse radish water, 100% ® Bring water to boil.
from above 4g 1%
Methylcellulose F50 0.15% 0 Disp e rse methylce llulose a nd xa nth a n gum in boiling water.
(Dow brand) 0.6g
® Simmer for 2 min, a nd remove from heat. Cool.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, to taste @ Vacuum sea l. Refrigerate for at leas t 6 h to fully hydrate .
CP Ke lco brand)
0 Transfer to metal bowl.
Salt
® Season, and set bowl over pot of simm ering water.
® Whip foam base with electric w hi sk until soft peaks form.
@ Serve with rib roast or Boeuf en Gelee.
from page 4-284
OYSTERS WITH CAVA FOAM ADAPTED FROM JO AN ROCA Yields 700 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
400g 100%
Cava or other sparkling CD Shear gum into wine.
dry white wine 1.6 g 0.4% 0 Transfer to 11 whipping siphon.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 25% ® Charge sipho n with o ne cartridge of carbon dioxide, and seal.
CP Kelco brand) 0.25%
(7%)* 0 Refrigerate.
Apple juice 100g
Agar (Texturas brand) 1g ® Disperse agar in juice.
@ Bringjuice to boil.
Kusshi oysters 20 oysters
0 Remove from heat, a nd coo l until ge lled.
Candied le mon peel four cubes
(store-bought) ® Puree gel until completely fluid.
® Shuck a nd rinse.
@ Divid e e qu a lly among four bowls.
@ Garnish each bowl with dab of app le fluid gel, o ne cube of lemon peel, two pieces of gin ger
dice, and two pieces of pineapple di ce.
Crystallized ginge r, eight pieces
brunoise
Fresh pin eapp le, eight pi eces
brunoise
Cumin seeds, ground fine 0.4 g 0.1 % @ Season.
0.1% @ Dispense cava foam at table.
Pain d 'ep ices spice 0.4 g
powder
see page 51
from page 4·277 *(% ofweightofapplejuice)
BARBECUED EEL WITH WHIPPED CARAMEL Yi e lds450 g
ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 100 g 100%
Sugar 100 g 100% CD Cook together to 143 ·c I 290 •f.
300 g 300% 0 Cool and refrigerate.
Water 3g 3%
Versawhip 600 (Kerry ® Deg laze caramel, and sti r to dissolve. Reserve 300 g of ca ramel water, and chill.
Bioscience brand) 0.45g 0.45%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0 Disperse powders into reserved cold cara me l water, and blend until full y in corpo rated .
CP Kelco brand)
Barbecued eel ® Whip with e lectri c w hi sk until stiff, beer-head-like foam is achieved.
(store-bought)
200g 200% @ Broil for 2 min, skin sid e down.
0 Arrange on plates, a nd garnish with whipped ca rame l.
from page 4·283
FOAMS 327
UNI WITH WHIPPED TOFU AND TAPIOCA ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG Yields 3.85 kg (20 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Softtofu 1.25 kg 313%
Water 450g 113% 0 Puree together until smooth.
0 Pass through fine sieve.
Yuzu juice BOg 20%
Sugar 20g 5%
Yuzu kosho 15g 4%
Salt lOg 2.5%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 9g 2.25% ® Blend into tofu base until fully dispersed .
CP Kelco brand) (0.5%)*
0 Pour mixture into 11 whipping siphon.
® Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Reserve refrigerated.
Bonito flakes 20g 5% 0 Toss together to make furikake (Japanese mixed seasoning).
(katsuobushi)
Egg yolk powder 20g 5%
Nori powder 20g 5%
Puffed rice 20g 5%
Shrimp cracker puffs, 20g 5%
crumbled
Toasted sesame seeds 20g 5%
Black tapioca pearls 1.25 kg 313% ® Comb in e, and bring to simmer.
Apple juice (Mott's) 150g 37.5% ® Cool.
Elderflower syrup lOOg 25% @ Place spoonful of tapioca pearls in bottom of each bowl.
@ Dispense large spoonful of whipped tofu onto each portion.
Santa Barbara sea urchin 400g 100% @ Add three tongues to each bowl.
(uni) tongues @) Garnish with fur ikake.
from page 4·285 *(%oftotal weight offirst six ingredients)
CHESTNUT CREAM Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk, cold 150g
Iota carrageenan 0.6g 150% 0 Disperse iota carrageenan and gum over milk.
0.6%
(0.2%)*
Konjacgum 0.3g 0.3% 0 Blend with milk solution.
(TIC Gums brand) (0 .1 %)*
Chestnut puree lOOg
(store-bought) 100%
Heavy cream 25g
Roasted hazelnut oil 15g ® Vacuum seal.
Sugar 15g
Water lOg 25% 0 Place in 80 ' C I 175 °Fbath, and hold for 5 min to
Salt 2g
15% hydrate iota carrageenan.
15% ® Pour into mold, and refrigerate until set, aboutlO min.
10% ® Puree ge l until fluid.
2% 0 Fillll siphon with fluid ge l.
® Charge chestnut cream -fill ed siphon w ith two nitrous
oxide cartridges, and reheat in 70 ' C I 158 ' F bath for
15min.
from page 5·21 *(%oftotal weight ofall ingredients)
328 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
WHIPPED BUTTER Yields1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
4 kg 400%
Heavy cream CD Transfer to bowl of electric mixer.
(without stabilizers) 100% 0 Whisk on high until fat is totally separated from liquid and small granules of butter begin to
0.15 %
Sweet butter, from above 1 kg 0.01 % form, about10 min.
or store-bought 1.5%
® Strain mixture through cheesecloth, discarding liquid.
Lactic acid 1.5g @ Wring cheesecloth tightly to remove any remaining moisture from butter.
Delta decalactone 0 .1 g ® Measure 1 kg of sweet butter.
(SAFC brand)
® Whisk into soft butter.
0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 24 h to mature butter flavor.
® To serve, warm butter to 40 oc I 104 °F until fluid but not broken.
® Pour into 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
@ Dispense to serve.
Salt 15g
from page 4·286
Whether you make your own butter or use store-bought butter, this
incredible butter foam provides the essential taste of butter in a much
lighter context. It may be held at 40 °C I 104 °Fand foamed to order.
YOGURT FOAM AND SWEET POTATO CHIPS Yields500 g
(HOMAGE TO AMERICAN SCULPTOR RICHARD SERRA)
ADAPTED FROM JOSE ANDRES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
160 Bloom gelatin 4g 1.1 %
Heavy cream 150 g 43% CD Bloom in cold water.
100% 0 Heat 50 g of cream.
Full-fat Greek-style 350 g
strained yogurt 57% ® Add gelatin to dissolve.
@ Blend with gelatin mixture and 100 g of remaining cream.
Sweet potatoes, peeled 200 g 28.5% ® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Frying oil as needed 11.5%
Salt to taste 0.05% ® Refrigerate for at least 4 h.
Tamarind paste 100 g
see page 145 0 Slice potatoes into sheets 1 mm I 1.\2in thick on Japanes e rotary slicer.
Clear honey 40 g ® Deep-fry in 190 oc I 375 °Foil until crisp and golden, about 3 min.
Star anise powder 0.2g
from page 4·287 ® Season chips, and reserve.
@ Blend well to form syrup, and transfer to squeeze bottle.
@ Dispense yogurt foam into serving bowls.
@ Drizzle syrup over foam, and serve with sweet potato chips on side.
FOAMS 329
SET FOAMS
CD Select bubble size and foam temperature. The table Best Bets for Set ® Hydrate, using the time and temperature given (not required
for co ld-so luble foaming agents).
Foams below offers multiple options for foams to be served co ld or hot,
with or without fat. 0 Cool liquid completely.
0 Measure ingredients carefully, and disperse the foaming agents in the ® Aerate with an electric whisk or mixture, or expand by using
a 11 whipping siphon, as indicated.
liquid. Set the weight ofthe liquid to 100%. For example, to make passion
fruit marshmallows, add 6.25 g of160 Bloom gelatin and 2.5 g of album in ® Heat or ch ill the foam to set its structure. Setting methods,
powder for every 100 g of passion fruit base.
temperatures, and times are listed in the table.
Best Bets for Set Foams
Serving temperature Hydrate Set
(scaling)* (oC) (oF) (min) Foaming method (oC) (oF) (h)
and bubble size Foaming agents Method 3
4
cold, fine 160 Bloom gelatin 3.00% 60 140 5 electric whisk refrigerator
60 140 2
xanthan gum 0.25%
75 167 14min
160 Bloom gelatin 4.0% 60 140 5 stand mixer refrigerator 78 172 16min
albumin powder 10% full power 1 min
heavy cream 200% 60 140 5 siphon with two refrigerator high heat 1 min
30% cartridges of nitrous
egg yolk at 65 oc / 148 oF 5% oxide
albumin powder
160 Bloom gelatin 3%
xanthan gum 0.25%
albumin powder 18.0% cold-soluble stand mixer vacuum oven
glucose, syrup DE 40 16.5%
maltodextrin DE 19 5.0%
xanthan gum 0.3%
hot and cold, fine egg white 100.0% n/a electric whisk steam oven
lemon juice 10%
salt 1.3%
albumin powder 14.0% cold-soluble electric whisk steam oven
Maltrin M100 17.5%
egg yolk 27.0%
tartaric acid 0.2%
hot and cold, coarse egg white 104.0% cold-soluble siphon with two microwave
100.0%
nut butter 67.0% cartridges of nitrous
67.0%
egg yolk oxide into perforated
sugar or isomalt paper cup
all-purpose flour 16.7%
160 Bloom gelatin 2.8% 100 212 5 electric whisk blowtorch or
1.4% broiler
methylcellulose F50
from page 4·288 *(set weight ofliquid to 700%)
330 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
Examples Note See page
339
gelatin sponges, soy sauce keep liquid very cold when whipping
cloud next
delicate marshmallow, cool before whisking with albumin powder
passion fruit marshmallow
savory parfaits and mousses best cast directly in serving vessel
very light savory meringues, vacuum at 19 mbar I 0.28 psi; meringue base can 339
green olive meringue also be dehydrated or baked
blanc manger ideal pH around 8.7; add more acid to older egg 335
light souffles whites
whip albumin and water with tartaric acid, and 338
then fold in remaining ingredients
pistachio sponge cake allow batter to rest for 1 h, refrigerated, before 333
using; the container in which the sponge is cooked
must have bottom ventilation
hot apricot marshmallow best used with fruit or vegetable purees; use same 334
day; see page 4·170 for details on methylcellulose
FOAMS 331
PASSION FRUIT MARSHMALLOW WITH CHORIZO POWDER Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 150%
Chorizo (dry cured), CD Place in even layer on dehydrator tray.
very thinly sliced 0 Dehydrate at 55 oc I 131 °Ffor12 h.
N-ZorbitM 50g 25% ® Pat off any excess oil.
(National Starch brand) (76.7%)*
160 Bloom gelatin Bg 4% 0 Add to dried chorizo, and grind to fine powder.
Passion fruit juice 200g 100%
Fructose 75g 37.5% ® Disperse gelatin into juice.
® Heat juice and sugar to 60 oc I 140 °Funtil gelatin and sugar dissolve.
0 Remove from heat.
® Cool completely.
Albumin powder 20g 10% ® Whisk into cooled passion fruit juice mixture.
@ Whip until st iff peaks form, about 10 min.
@ Cast in 2.5 em I 1 in layer on nonstick mold.
@ Refrigerate until fully set, about 4 h.
@ Cut resulting marshmallow into 2.5 em I 1 in cubes.
@ Toss cubes in chorizo powder to serve.
from page 4·290 *(%oftotal weightofchorizo)
CRYOPOACHED GREEN TEA SOUR ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 1 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
17.5%
Sugar 124g 1.5% CD Combine.
100% 0 Pass through tam is.
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon 11 g 19%
HV, Obipektin brand) ® Reserve sugar mixture.
3%
Water 710g 0 Combine, and add sugar mixture.
Lime juice 133 g 0.2% ® Hand-blend until sugar is completely incorporated.
14% ® Bring to boil while whisking.
Gunpowder tea 21 g 7% 0 Pass through chino is.
® Chill over ice to 4 oc I 39 °F.
Matcha green tea l.5g
powder ® Add to chil led mixture.
100g
Egg whites 50g @ Refrigerate infu sion for 2 h.
Vodka @ Pass through chinois lined with double layer of cheesecloth or 70 micron sieve.
Match a green tea powder as needed @ Blend into tea infusion.
from page 4·291
@ Pass through chinois to remove any lumps.
@ Whisk into infusion to make meringue base.
@ Transfer meringue base to 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous
dioxide. Store refrigerated.
@ To serve, dispense small ball of meringue base onto spoon; transfer to Dewar flask filled with
liquid nitrogen.
@ Poach, turning meringue constantly until frozen on outside but still soft inside, about 30 s.
@ Dust over frozen meringue, and serve immediately.
332 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
WHIPPED YOGURT CRISPS ADAPTED FROM AKI KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEXANDER TALBOT Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Full-fat Greek-style 480g 0 Whisk together until yogurt is completely incorporated.
strained yogurt 56.25% 0 Set aside yogurt base.
Water 270g
Water 300g 62.5% ® Bring water to simmer.
10.4%
lsomalt 50g 0 Stir in isomalt, Maltrin M100, and salt until dissolved.
Maltrin M100 (GPC brand) 25 g 5.2 %
Salt 5 g 1%
Methocel K100 11.3 g 2.35% ® Whisk into water until fully incorporated.
(Dow brand) (1.08%)*
® Remove from heat, and add to yogurt base, from above.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 2.26 g 0.47%
CP Kelco brand) (0.22%)* 0 Cool in bowl set over ice-water bath.
® Place bowl over hot water bath, and whip cooled mixture until consistency resembles
whipped egg white meringue.
® Transfer to pastry bag.
@) Pipe desired sizes onto tray lined with silicone mat.
@ Dehydrate in 95 ' CI 205 ' Foven unti l crisp, about 1 h.
from page 4·292 *(% oftotal weight offirst three ingredients)
GREEN TEA CAKE ADAPTED FROM JOHNNY IUZZINI Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar or isomalt, 150g
powdered 100% 0 Blend until creamy.
Unsalted butter 85g
Eggs, blended 150g 57% 0 Whisk into sugar mixture until smooth.
Vanilla seeds and pulp, 1g 100%
scraped from pod 0.67% ® Add.
Water 155 g
Skim mi lk powder 20g 103% 0 Combine water and milk powder.
13.3% ® Heat to boiling while wh isking constantly.
Methocel SGA 7C 3.5 g 2.3% ® Pour hot mi lk into blender.
(Dow brand) (2%)*
0 Blend into hot milk.
® Chill milk over ice-water bath .
® Add mi lk to blended sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla seeds.
Cake flour 150g 100% @) Comb ine, and sift together.
Matcha green tea powder 8 g 5.3% @ Fold into liquid ingredients to form batter.
Salt 4.5 g 3% @ Load batter into 1 I whipp ing siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous ox ide.
@) Dispense into perforated paper cups.
@ Microwave on high for 1 min to cook through.
@ Unmold and serve.
from page 4·292 *(% oftotal weight ofwater and milk powder)
M ICROWAV ED PISTACHIO SPONG E CA KE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 800 g
INGREDI ENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg wh ites 250g 104%
Green pistachio butter 240g 100% 0 Blend until smooth .
see page 54 0 Refrigerate for 2 h to rest.
Egg yo lks 160g 67%
Sugar o r isoma lt 160g 67% ® Strain.
All-purpose flour 40g 16.7%
0 Transfer cake base to 11 whipp ing siphon, and charge w ith one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
® Perforate bottoms of10 paper cups to allow for air circu lation.
® Dispense cake base into cups, filling each about half full.
0 Microwave each cup separately at 900 W for 50s.
from page 4·294
FOAM S 333
HOT APRICOT MARSHMALLOW INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields: 250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Apricot puree 250 g 100%
3.5 g 1.4% CD Combine methylcellul ose with 200 g of ap ricot puree. Set as ide remaining 50 g puree.
see page 217 0 Bring to boil, and hold for 2 min to fully disperse.
Methocel F50 7g 2.8%
(Dow brand) ® Coo l comp letely.
40% @ Vacuum seal.
160 Bloom gelatin 0.4% ® Refrigerate for12 h to hydrate methylcellulose.
16% ® Disperse gelatin in remaining 50 g of apricot puree.
Olive oil 100g 8%
0 Simm er to dissolve.
Jasmine essential o il 1g
® Combine with Methocel mi xture.
Dried apricots, finely 40g ® Whip with electric whisk for 7 min, until li ght and airy.
diced @ Transfer to pastry bag.
@ Pipe small mounds onto center of ovenproof plates.
Marcona almonds, finely 20g @ Cover plates with plastic wrap.
chopped @ Refrigerate until set, about 4 h.
@ Remove plastic wrap.
@ Combine.
@ Bake apricot marshmallows at 120 "CI 250 "Ffor 3 min.
@ Garnish.
@ Drizz le a littl e infu sed olive oil over each meringue, and serve.
Chives, finely minced 5g 2%
2%
Lemon balm leaves 5g
from page 4·293
HAMBURGER BUN Yields 12 buns
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the sponge:
White Lily bread flour 310g 65 % CD Mix together on low spee d, using paddle attachment, for 8 min.
189 g 40% 0 Cover tightly, and refrigerate for 24- 48 h.
Water (5 "C I 41 °F) 2g 0.4%
Yeast (fresh)
For the dough:
White Lily bread flour 480g 100% ® Mix together flour and water on low speed for 4 min.
270 g 56% @ Stop mixer, and cover bowl with hot, wet cloth for 45 min .
Water (30 °C I 86 °F) 9.5g 2% ® Mix into flour mixture.
120 g 25 % ® Add to flour mi xture, and mix on medium speed for 4 min.
Yeast (fresh) 15%
Sponge, from above 72g 10% 0 Ferment dough, covered, at room temperature for 1 h.
Sugar 5%
Egg yolks 50g 2% ® Form into twelve 90 g ba lls.
Vegetable shortening 25g 0.1%
Salt 9.5g ® Arrange balls into 11 em I 41). in ring mold.
Vanilla extract 0 .5g 0.04% @ Proof in 40 oc l 104 "Fcombi oven with 85% relative humidity until dough has expanded to fill
(two drops)
Lemon essential oil 0 .2g 0.01% ring, abo ut 1V2 h. If proofing cabi net is unava ilabl e, cover with oiled plastic wrap and keep in
(one drop)
L-cysteine 0.04g v2warm place until proofed, at least 1 h.
Whole milk as needed
Black onion seeds as needed @ Press gently on proofed buns to fl atten.
Black poppy seeds, as needed
toasted @ Brush bun tops lightly.
Black sesame seeds, as need ed @ Combine, and sprinkle on bun tops.
toasted
Rendered beef suet 40g @ Bake in 260 °CI 500 "Fove n for 6 min, and coo l to room temperature.
from page 5·12
8.5% @ Cut buns in half, and fry in suet until crisp and golden .
334 VOlUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAl
BEET MERINGUE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beet juice 120 g 100%
(from about CD Bring to simmer, an d remove from heat.
see page 2·336 250 g of bee ts) 20%
12.5% ® Skim top.
lsoma lt 24g 1% ® Cool completely.
Albumin powder 15 g
Asco rbic acid 1.2 g 12. 5% 8 Ble nd first three ingre di e nts into coo le d juice.
Salt to taste 0 .8%
® Season with sa lt.
Spray-dried yogurt 15 g ® Refrigerate for12 h to rehydrate.
powder 0 Whip rehydrated meringue base until stiff.
® Pipe meringue base into mold, 5 em I 2 in high.
see page 2·438, orstore-bought ® De hydrate in 90 ' C I 195 ' Foven for 2 h.
@ Cut into desired shapes.
@ Rese rve in coo l, dry place.
@ Comb in e .
@ Dust over me rin gues b efore se rving.
Citric acid 1g
from page 4·295
STEAMED BLANCMANGE ADAPTED FROM jEAN-FR AN<;:O IS PIECE Yields 200 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg whites 120 g 100%
Lemon juice 12 g 10% CD Whip together un til stiff peaks form.
Salt 2g 1.7%
Chives, fin e ly minced 4g 3.3% 0 Fold in ge ntly.
Black pe pper, crushed 0.8g 0 .67%
Unsalted butte r, as needed ® Transfer to pastry bag.
room temperature 100%
four whole 8 Grease four10 em I 4 in meta l ring molds lightly.
Egg yo lks, whole
120 g ® Pipe egg white mixture into mold s, filling eac h halfway ful l.
Sauce vin jaune ® Press down in ce nter of molds with back of wet spoon, making sma ll depressions.
see page308
from page 4·296 0 Add one yo lk to center of each mold.
® Fill molds with remain ing egg white mixture, cove ring yo lks.
® Scrape off tops of each blancmange with offset spatula to flatten .
@ Flash sid es lightly with blowtorc h to tighten structure.
@ Brush pl ast ic wrap with butter, and cove r each blancmange.
@ Steam in 75 ' CI 165 ' Fcombi oven for 14 min.
@ Let rest in molds at roo m temperature for 2 min .
@ Transfe r to se rvin g plates.
@ Warm sauce and pour over each blancmange at table.
FO AMS 335
CHESTNUT PUFFS Yields4JO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk 160g 160%
JOO Bloom gelatin lOg 10% CD Disperse gelatin over cold milk.
Unsalted butter 45g 45%
Rendered bacon fat lOg 10% 0 Add to milk.
Salt 2.5 g 2.5% 0 Bring to boil.
All-purpose flour lOOg 100%
@ Add to boiling liquid all at once.
Eggs 150g 150% ® Stir over medium heat until dough forms into ball and film develops on the inside of pot, about
JOg JO%
Chestnut puree 2min.
(store-bought) JO% ® Transfer to stand mixer.
0 1ncorporate eggs, one at a time, followed by puree.
Frying oil as needed
® Cast into mold in layer1.5 em I% in thick.
Chestnut cream, warmed JOg
see page 328 ® Set for at least J h.
@) Cut into 1.5 em I% in cubes.
@ Bake cubes in 200 oc l J90 °Foven for 10 min.
@ Deep-fry ch estnut puffs in 185 oc I J65 °Foil for 4 min.
@ Transfer to paper towe l- lined baking sheet.
@) Fill each puff with chestnut cream by using an injection attachment on a siphon to pierce puff.
Pain d'epices powder as needed @ Dust each puff with pain d'epices powder.
see page 51
from page 5·20
BUTTERMILK BISCUITS Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
White Lily biscuit flour JOOg 4.5% CD Mix together.
4% 0 Sift and reserve.
Baking powder 13.5 g 1%
J8% 0 Freeze butter, or optionally, use liquid nitrogen.
Sugar 12 g
J8% @ Pulse frozen butter in food processor until round balls
White Lily brand flour is milled Salt Jg 25%
from soft wheat. If unavailable, 10% form, J mm I Jk in. in diameter.
substitute another soft wheat flour Unsalted butter 115g
or a pastry flour. If you use all- ® Toss balls into sifted flour, and reserve.
purpose flour, you may need to Liquid nitrogen (optional) as needed ® Mix together.
increase the amount of liquid 0 Drizzle over reserved flour mixture.
slightly. Heavy cream 115g ® Mix very lightly until wet dough forms.
Creme fraiche 70g ® Place dough on plastic wrap.
Egg, blended JOg
@) Roll into log 8 em I J Y., in. in diameter, and then wrap
in plastic.
@ Freeze partially.
@ Cut into round slices 2 em I :Y., in thick.
@ Place slices on baking sheet lin ed with floured sili cone
mat.
@) Bake in 200 oc I J90 °Foven until golden on top,
about 5 min.
@ Serve warm with caramelized creme fraiche
(see page 20J).
from page 5·77
336 VOLU ME 6 ·K I TC HE N MAN UAL
RYE BREAD ADAPTED FROM HORST BANDEL Yields 1.25 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the old rye bread soaker:
Water, hot 870g 483% 0 Combine and coolto room temperature.
250% 0 Vacuum sea l.
Day-o ld rye bread 450g
loaf (homemade ® Refrigerate for12 h.
or store-bought)
0 Squeeze out water.
® Reserve for rye dough .
For the sourdough starter:
Bread flour 200g 111 % ® Mix together.
56%
Water, 18 ' CI 65 ' F lOOg 42% 0 Ripen at 21 ' CI 70 ' Ffor 10-12 h.
5.5%
Rye flour 75g 2.8% ® Measure 20 g of starter for rye dough .
Barley malt lOg
Yeast (fresh) 5g
For the cooked rye berries:
Water 1 kg 555% ® Vacuum seal together.
139%
Rye berries, 250g @ Cook so us vide in 90 ' CI 194 ' Fbath for 5 h.
soaked for 12 h
@ Drain .
@ Measure 180 g of cooked rye berries.
For the rye molasses meal:
Old rye bread soaker, 180g 100% @ Combine in bowl.
from above 20% @ Mix on medium speed with paddle attachment until mealy, about 2 min.
11 % @ Reserve rye molasses meal.
Blackstrap molasses 36g 200%
3.3% @ Combine in bowl.
Sourdough starter, 20g 131%
from above 125% @ Mix on low speed with paddle attachment for 10 min. Mixture should look sticky but not wet.
125%
Water 360g 100% @ Ferment for 30 min at 25-30 ' CI 77-86 ' F.
6 .8%
Yeast (fresh) 6g @ Transfer dough to cast-iron mold .
50%
Rye molasses meal, 236 g @ Ferment for 1 hat 25-30 ' CI 77-86 ' F.
from above
@ Sprinkle seeds over fermented dough in mold.
High-gluten flour 224g
® Place uncovered mold on center rack of220 ' CI 425 ' Foven, and bake for 10 min.
Rye chops 224g @ Cover mold, and bake to core temperature of99 ' CI 210 ' F, about 30 min.
(chopped rye berries)
@ Remove cover, and let rest in mold at room temperature for at least 2 h.
Cooked rye berries, 180g
from above @ Cut bread into 3.5 em I 1y, in wedges.
Sa lt 12.2 g @ Toast wedges in beef marrow fat in nonstick frying pan until golden and crisp, about 2 min on
Sesame seeds as needed first side and 1y, min on second side.
Sprouted flaxseeds as needed
Sunflower seeds as needed
Rendered beef marrow 90g
from page 5·59
FOAMS 337
MOROCCAN BATBOUT FLATBREAD Yields725g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, lukewa rm 320g 107%
Active dry yeast 7g 2.3% CD Sprinkle yeast over wate r, and stir to dissolve.
All-purpose flour 300g 100% 0 Let rest for 5 min.
Fine semolina flour lOOg 33%
Salt 8g 2.7% ® Mix with yeast mixture.
Turmeric, peeled and 4g 1.3%
finely grated 0 Knead dough forlO min.
Golden oregano, 1.5 g 0.5%
finely minced ® Divide into three eq ual portions.
as needed @ Let rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, abo ut 1 h.
Frying oil
0 Flatten portions into discs 1 em I :Y. in thick.
from page 5·139
® Garnish with herbs.
® Refrigerate for up to 4 h.
@ Pan fry discs on li ghtly o il ed griddle or pan until cooked through and gold en, about 2 min on
each side.
SIPHONED SOUFFLE A LA LORRAINE Yields 200 g (four individual souffles)
For a cheese version ofthe souffle, INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
add 54 g (54%) of grated Gruyere Whole milk 150g 150%
cheese, and dissolve it with 0.4% Bacon, rendered and 100 g 100% CD Vacuum seal together, and cook so us vide in 90 oc I
sod ium citrate in the warm milk. drained
Coo l comp lete ly, and proceed Sweet onions, thinly 40g 40% 194 oFbath forlYz h.
with the remaining instru ctions. sli ced
Use only 1.8 g (1.8%) of salt. 100% 0 Remove from bag, and strain; measure 78 g of milk,
Egg whites 100 g 78%
For a chocolate version of the 20% and cool.
souffle, rep lace corn starch with Infused milk, from above 78g 14% ® Combine w ith infu sed milk, and blend until smooth.
7 g (7%) tapioca starch, whisk 39 g 3.6%
(39 %) of grated sem isweet chaco- Egg yolks 20g 1.1% 0 Cook so us vide in 78 oc 1 172 °Fbath for 30 min.
late into the warm milk, and omit 13.5%
the Maltrin, PGA, and 1.8 g of the Unsalted butter, melted 14 g 0.31% ® Dust sugar over egg yolks, and let stand for 20 min at
sa lt. Coo l comp lete ly, and proceed room temperature.
with instructions. Salt 3.6g 3.1 %
@ Blend whites, salt, butter and infused milk with sugar
So us vide cook ing time of eggs Sugar l.lg 0.7% dusted egg yolks until smooth, and cook so us vide in
will vary accord ing to t he size of
the batch. Corn starch 13.5 g 78 oc 1 172 °Fbath for 30 min to make egg base.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.31 g 0 Dry blend, and whisk into cooked egg base until
(Propanal Ester BV, FMC
BioPolymer brand) dispersed even ly.
Maltrin M100 3.1 g ® Pour into 11 whipping siphon, and hold in 55 oc I
(GPC brand)
131 °Fbath until ready to bake.
Cream of tartar 0.7g ® To bake, charge with two cartridges of nitrous ox id e
and shake well.
@ Line the sides of four ramekins with parchment
collars.
@ Brush insid e of ramekins with oil or melted butter, and
dust with flour.
® Dispense souffle base two-thirds up sides of
ramekins.
@ Put in oven pan, and fill pan with enough water to
cover bottom halves of ramekins.
@ Bake in 190 oc 1 375 oFoven for 20 min.
from page 4·297
338 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
GREEN OLIVE MERINGUE INSPIRED BY PIERRE GAGNAIRE Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300%
Green olives, pitted, bulk 900 g 167% 0 Blend to fine puree.
0 Strain through cheesecloth to extract juice.
Water 500g 100%
® Measure 300 g ofjuice.
Green olive juice, from 300g
above @ Whisk together.
54g
Albumin powder 50 g 18% ® Fold into olive juice mixture.
Glucose syrup DE 40 15g 16.5%
Maltrin M100 5% ® Whip in stand mixer until dense foam forms, about 5 min.
(GPC brand) 0.9g (3.7%)*
0.3% 0 Pipe 5 em I 2 in spheres of green olive meringue onto silicone baking mat.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, (0.2 %)* ® If available, bake in 60 •c 1 140 •r vacuum oven at19 mbar I 0.275 psi for2 h.
CP Kelco brand) ® Otherwise, bake in 7rc l 170 •r oven for 8 h, or150 •c I 300 •r oven for1V2 h.
33% @ Dehydrate at 55 ·c I 131 •r for 12 h.
Green o lives, pitted 100g
13.3% @ Grind to fine powder in food processor.
N-ZorbitM 40g
(National Starch brand) @ Whisk into powder.
Salt to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil 30g @ Season.
from page 4·298 810% Whisk slowly into powder until fully incorporated.
@ Dust over meringues to serve.
*(%oftotal weight ofgreen alivejuice, albumin powder, andglucose)
SOY SAUCE CLOUD ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, cold 100g 100%
160 Bloom gelatin 6g 0 Place empty stand mixer bowl or stainless steel bow l in freezer for 25 min.
6% 0 Hydrate gelatin in water.
(3 % )*
® Bring water to simm er until gelatin is just dissolved.
@ Coo l quickly. Do not al low gelatin to set.
Soy sauce 100g 100% ® Combine, and wh isk into gelatin mixture.
0.5g
Xanthan gum (Xantana, 0.5% ® Place in freezer-chilled bowl.
Texturas brand) (0.25%)*
0 Whip with electric whisk attachment or handheld automatic whisk until liquid becomes very
dense and forms tight foam, about 15 min.
® Cast foam into nonstick mold, 1.5 em 1% in thick.
® Freeze mold for 2 min to firm.
@ Transfer to refrigerator, and ch ill at least 2 h before using.
@ Cut into desired shapes, and serve as garn ish forfoie gras or monkfish liver terrine.
from page 4·299 *(%oftotal weight ofwater and soy sauce)
FOAMS 339
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