EYEWITNESS TRAVEL HUNGARY

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Hungary



EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Hungary

Main Contributors Barbara Olszańska,
Tadeusz Olszański, Craig Turp

Produced by Hachette Livre Polska Sp. z o.o. Introducing Budapest
Hungary Area by Area
Senior Graphic Designer Paweł Pasternak
Graphic Designers Paweł Pasternak, Discovering Hungary 10 Budapest
Paweł Kamiński at a Glance 54
Putting Hungary
Senior Editor Agnieszka Trzebska-Cwalina on the Map 16 Castle District 56

Photographers A Portrait of Hungary 18 Gellért Hill and Tabán 70
Gábor Barka, Dorota and Mariusz
Hungary Through Around Parliament 80
Jarymowicz, Krzysztof Kur the Year 34
Central Pest 94
Illustrators The History
Michał Burkiewicz, Gary Cross, Dorota of Hungary 38 Further Afield 106

Jarymowicz, Paweł Marczak Shopping
in Budapest 118
Cartographers
Barbara and Jacek Gawrysiuk, Magda Polak Entertainment
in Budapest 120
Printed in China
Street Finder 122
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First published in Great Britain in 2007
by Dorling Kindersley Ltd.

80 Strand, London, UK, WC2R 0RL

Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2013,
2015, 2018

Copyright © 2007, 2018
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company

All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.

A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.

ISBN 978-0-24130-624-6

Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with UK usage; i.e. the “first
floor” is the floor above ground level.

Inside the Hungarian State Opera House in central Budapest

The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].

Title page The glittering interior of Hungary’s Parliament building, Budapest Front cover image One of the seven lookout towers
of Fisherman’s Bastion Back cover image Chain Bridge and the Danube River at twilight

Contents

Hungary Travellers’ Survival Guide
Region by Region Needs
Practical Information 296
Hungary Where to Stay 262 Travel Information 304
at a Glance 130 Index 312
Where to Eat Acknowledgments 325
Around Budapest 132 and Drink 270 Phrase Book 327

Northern Shopping
Transdanubia 150 in Hungary 286

Southern Transdanubia Entertainment
182 in Hungary 288

The Northern Sports and Activities
Highlands 212 in Hungary 290

The Great Plain 234

Statue of Dénes Szécsi,
a 15th-century archbishop

St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest

6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This travel guide helps you get the most Region by Region section, which covers
from your visit to Hungary, providing all the important towns, cities and places
detailed practical information as well as around the country, with photographs,
expert recommendations. Introducing maps and illustrations. Details of hotels,
Hungary maps the whole country and sets restaurants, shops and markets, entertain-
it in its historical and cultural context. ment and sports are found in Travellers’
The first section, on Budapest, gives an Needs, while the Survival Guide contains
overview of the capital’s main attractions. advice on everything from medical services
Hungary’s regions are charted in the and public transport to personal safety.

Budapest Area by Area BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  95

Budapest has been divided CENTRAL PEST 1 Area Map For easy
into four central areas and reference, the sights in
a Further Afield section. At the end of the 17th century much of Pest most prominent example of this work is the each area are numbered
Each area is described in an was in ruins and few residents remained. Hungarian National Museum. At this time and plotted on a map.
individual section, giving the Within the next decades, however, new Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and Sights in the city centre
names of all main sights and residential districts were established – today’s industry. This was partly due to the Jewish are also shown on the
attractions. The sights are midtown suburbs. In the 19th century, community, who actively helped develop the Budapest Street Finder
numbered on the area map. redevelopment schemes introduced grand area. Today it combines commerce and culture on pages 122–7.
houses and apartment blocks, as well as with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
Sights at a glance secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.
lists the buildings in
a particular area by Sights at a Glance

category. Museums Churches and Synagogues

A suggested route for a q Museum of Applied Arts 6 Inner City Parish Church ARADI U. Vörösmarty
walk is shown in red. w Hungarian National Museum 9 University Church utca
e Great Synagogue CSENGERY U.
pp102–3 HUNYAGI
i House of Terror Museum Streets and Squares TÉR

Historic Buildings 1 Vigadó Square Oktogon KIRÁLY U.
and Monuments 2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square
5 Váci Street ANDRÁSSY ÚT.
3 Turkish Bank r Jewish Quarter
4 Pest County Hall

7 Klotild Palaces

8 City Council Chamber Opera KIRÁLY U. ERZSÉBET
0 Ervin Szabó Library
t New York Palace ANDRÁSSY ÚT. PAULAY EDE U. VASVÁRY P. U.

y Liszt Academy of Music CSÁNYI KÖRÚT
u New Theatre KIS KERTÉSZ

U. U.
DIÓFA
EÖVTTöÉVRrÖöSsmatrJétÓyr ZNJSÓDÁTEEEZDÉFÁrSRzOKEAshéRFFTEHíbRdRePTAÉEEtGIRNSLIMCPTAOSIIUBNZS..TUACADUA.BU.UDNA. ADUEU.VRS.ÁZARTSOÉJÉSTRBHÓÁEZTÚUTK..DFÁeeRBZráeOsakn.LjúctFYcÁKsteeRtyOKrréOe-eÖSrLnYRSIcÚUiKeRTTIRFUkEHÁMRLEBYLNAC.CUHZH.UYOSL.I..LÓUU..U. KLAUZÁL
BELVÁROS KAZINCZ TÉRU.

SzLéácnhcehnídyi Y U. ERZSÉBETVÁROSDOB U.

AKÁCFA U.
KLAUZÁL U.

NAGY DIÓFA U.
Danube DOB U. WESSELÉNYI U. DOHÁNY U. Blaha
R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. Lujza Tér
JANE GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. BLAHA JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
LUJZA
H VÁCI U. GYULAI PÁL U. TÉR SOMOGYI BÉLA U.
VAS U.
A SZENTKIRÁLYI U. STÁHLY U.

APÁCZAI U. PETÕFI S. U. Astoria
NING RAK

PA MÚZEUM PUSKIN U.

R

T GUTENBERG
TÉR
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
Rákóczi tér

K K HORÁNSZKY U.

VERES U. ÖRÚT MÁRIA U.
MAGYAR
A locator map shows at a
PÁLNÉ KIRÁLYI U. MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U. glance where you are in
relation to the city plan.
U. SZERB U. PÁL KÁLVIN BAROSS U.
MOLNÁR TÉR

VÁCI U. Kálvin MÁRIA U.
U. tér JÓZSEF KÖRÚT

U. VÁMHÁZ KRT

FŐVÁM I Ü L LÕ I
TÉR X
Fővám LÓNYAY U. RÁDAY U. ÚT
tér
See also Street Finder

maps 2 & 4 CSARNOK KINIZSI U. Corvin
TÉR Negyed
KNÉZITS
Danube KÖZRAKTÁR U.
U.

0 metres 400 RÁDAY U. FERENC KÖRÚT
LÓ N YAY
0 yards 400

U.

96  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA CENTRAL PEST  97

Ornate façade on Váci Street, which like much of central Pest is pedestrianized For keys to map symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street
AROUND
PARLIAMENT

The northern section of Váci Street has been Budapest’s fashionable CENTRAL
area for walking, meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques PEST
since the early 19th century. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable
place for a stroll in the evening, when it is stylishly illuminated. GELLÉRT
HILL AND
Danube
TABÁN

Gerbeaud Cukrászda Locator Map
is one of the best See Street Finder map 4
patisseries in town.

2 Street-by-Street Map This Vigadó D O R O T T YA U Holy Figures adorn the 5 . Váci Street
bird’s-eye view shows the heart of concert 19th-century façade of the Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
each sightseeing area. The sights hall Baroque Servite Church. fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there
carry the same numbers here as are old courtyards and shopping arcades.
on the area map and the fuller VIGADÓ 3 Turkish
description on subsequent pages. U Bank Párizsi Udvar is found on the
corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi
DEÁK VÁCI UTCA
FERENC Sándor utca. The arcade,
U currently closed for renovation,

RÉGIPOSTA is set to become a hotel with
UTCA shops downstairs.
PARIZSI U
2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square UTCA U 7 . Klotild Palaces
A Carrara marble monument VÁCI KIGYÓ These beautifully decorated twin buildings,
to the poet Mihály Vörösmarty
stands in this square. The statue designed as elegant apartment blocks in
was created by Ede Telcs and the Historicist style, flank each side of the
symbolizes the Hungarian
nation united in the poet’s approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.
words: “Your homeland,
Hungary, serve unwaveringly”. Key
Suggested route
Thonet House was built in 1888–

90 by Ödön Lechner (see p87) and

Gyula Pártos. The building stands U
PESTI
today in its original form, featuring 0 metres 50
Remains of Contra 0 yards 50
114  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA FURTHER A F I Zsolnay cera1m1ics5from Pécs. Aquincum
ELD

community. At the end of BeudBai-uhedgyrPÉaestéémttegHeraerinfimfliynl, gsiPsaBolanarecoeqo,ufnPeoemwsta’tshnfeseiowSnzás.zBévueilst 6 . Inner City Parish Church
the 19th century, nearly a This limestone and marble
quarter of the city’s inhabitants q Széll KálbmyáAnntédr,rtáhseMn avyer5h6o, tfhfeernin 1755 for
were Jewish. Tombs to look cog-wheel rtahilewmayaagnidstcrhataeir Jliáftn. os Péterffy, above tabernacle, in the church, dates
out for as you stroll among from the early 16th century
the graves include that of the the gateway there is a beautiful
Wellisch family, designed in
1903 by Arthur Wellisch, and To the webstaolcfotnhyescuiptypocertnetdreby atlantes.
that of Konrád Polnay, which
was designed five years later For hotels and restaurants saTerheeeptrphe2e6a4rw–e2om6o9adanneyddpcBpau2v7de6as–2hH8ei5lrles.,
by Gyula Fodor. Perhaps the
most eyecatching of all tombs including Szemlőhegyi and
belongs to the Schmidl family.
The startlingly flamboyant Pálvölgyi-barlang.
edifice, designed in 1903
by Hungary’s prominent The first station of a
architects Ödön Lechner and
Béla Lajta, is covered in vivid cog- wheel railway, built in
turquoise ceramic tiles. The
central mosaic in green and 1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet Stars indicate the sights
gold tiles represents the that no visitor should miss.
Tree of Life. fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill –

0 Budapest named after the Germanic
Holocaust
Memorial Centre Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue Swabians, who settled here
Holokauszt Emlékközpont
The excavations of the Roman town Aquincum and the museum q Palace of Arts fence of the wild and craggy under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5)
Páva utca 39. Tel (1) 455 33 33. (MÜPA) 300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve – and then Széchenyi Hill.
8 Aquincum drainage system. The sanctuaries q Ferenc körút. @ 4, 6, 30, 30A. Művészetek Palotája that it encloses. It is worth taking
Aquincum of the goddesses Epona and Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. the guided walk in the reserve, From Széchenyi Hill a
Fortuna can also be seen. ∑ hdke.hu Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24. particularly in spring or early narrow-gauge railway covers
Szentendrei út 135. Tel (81) 430 10 81. Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555 autumn. This is one of the only a 12-km (7-mile) route to the
£ Aquincum. @ 34, 42, 106. On the other side of the hév This outstanding memorial 33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm places to see the endangered Hűvös Valley. As in the days
Archeological park: Open Apr–Oct: railway line, the remains of an centre is dedicated to the tens daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of Centaurea sadleriana, a flower of the Soviet Young Pioneers
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: subject amphitheatre are visible, where of thousands of Hungarians Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44. that resembles a cornflower but movement, the railway is staffed
to weather. Exhibitions: Open Apr– the town’s inhabitants once deported from the Budapest Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. with a much larger flower head. by children, apart from the adult
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: sought entertainment. Ghetto to Auschwitz in the ∑ ludwigmuseum.hu The reserve is also home to a train drivers. At the top of János
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 9 Jewish Cemetery latter stages of World War II. Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-
∑ aquincum.hu Zsidó temető Housed in a former synagogue, Out Tower, designed by Frigyes
Kozma utca 6. @ 37. the exhibition tells of the fate
The remains of the Roman town Next door to the Municipal suffered by Hungarian Jews, The Palace of Arts, located in the blue grass and a spider found Schulek in 1910. A chair lift 3 Detailed information All the
of Aquincum were excavated Cemetery is the Jewish Gypsies and other victims. important sights in Budapest are
at the end of the 19th century. Cemetery, opened in 1893. Millennium City Centre on the Pest nowhere else in the world, as connects János Hill with described individually. Practical
Visitors today are free to stroll The many grand tombs here The most moving part of information includes a map
along its streets, viewing the are a vivid reminder of the the memorial is the former side of the Danube, between well as extraordinary, colourful Zugligeti út and this is a good reference, opening hours and
outlines of temples, baths, vigour and telephone numbers. The key to
shops and houses, in what was success of main prayer hall, given over Lágymányos Bridge and the butterflies and a rare lizard. way of making the descent. the symbols used can be found
once the centre of the town. Budapest’s to the photos of members on the back jacket flap.
prewar of the congregation who new National Theatre, brings
The civilian town of Aquincum, Jewish once worshipped here.
capital of the Roman province The 8-m- (24-ft-) high together all the arts under one
of Pannonia Inferior, was founded Schmidl family tomb at the Jewish Cemetery glass wall around the
at the beginning of the 2nd centre, designed by roof. Permanent residents in
century AD, a couple of decades László Zsótér, is
after a legionary fortress had inscribed with the the palace include the Ludwig
been established to its south. names of all Hun-
For centuries, it was the largest garians known to Museum of Contemporary Art,
city in central Europe. have died in the
Shoah. It allows the Béla Bartók National Concert
In the centre of the site a new names to be
museum is housed in a Neo- added; the goal is Hall, the Festival Theatre and the
Classical lapidarium displaying one day to have a
the most valuable Roman complete list of all National Dance Theatre.
archaeological finds from the who perished in
area. The items on display the Holocaust. w Eagle Hill Nature
include weapons and various Reserve
inscribed stone monuments. Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület

Only a fraction of the former Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30)
town is open to visitors today, but 408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm
it is nonetheless impressive with Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by
its remarkable central heating arrangement. 8 compulsory.
system based on hot air circu-
lated under mosaic floors. A drain A nature reserve such as The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills
cover is evidence that there this that is close to the
was a good water supply and centre of a large city is a
remarkable phenomenon.

Access to the summit of
this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-)
high hill to the west of Gellért
Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated
to protect the extremely rare
animal and plant species found
here. A smart residential quarter
of attractive bourgeois villas,
which lies on the lower slope of
Eagle Hill, extends almost to the

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7

HUNGARY REGION BY REGION  133

AROUND 1 Introduction The Hungary Region by Region
BUDAPEST landscape, history and
character of each region The coloured areas shown on the
Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals, are portrayed here, with a map on the book’s inside front
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the description of how the cover show the five main sight­
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The area has developed over seeing regions into which Hungary
unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region, the centuries and what it has been divided. Each is covered
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts offers the visitor today. in a full chapter in Hungary Region
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers by Region (see pp128–259). The most
a superb habitat for native wildlife. interesting towns and places to visit
have been numbered on Regional
With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands Maps throughout the book.
banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost homes in the area, and the legions of
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices.
everywhere. The natural fortress that is the
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen Over on the east bank the rolling hills
site for the construction of the historic of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly
towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both National Park – home to more than
built with protection and defence in mind. half of Hungary’s native bird species –
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian make for sensational hiking, walking
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád and birdwatching.
was the impenetrable seat of royal power.
Later still came Szentendre, which, like This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was part of Hungary, where visitors can expect
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
home and, though few Serbs remain, but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
traces of their culture and their religion As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
are evident everywhere. Those who come winter can be very cold, the early spring –
March, April and May – may be the best
time for exploring these historic places.

134  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION AROUND BUDAPEST  135

Exploring Around Budapest NAGYBÖRZSÖNYNDAUTNIOAN-IPAOL LPYARK Sights at a Glance 2 Regional Map This shows
1 Ráckeve the road network and gives
The countryside and villages around Budapest have always 2 Ócsa an illustrated overview of
been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is 3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9 the whole region. The most
the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the 4 Vácrátót interesting places to visit
art-loving village of Szentendre. Further upriver are the 5 Vác are numbered and there
Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city, 6 Szentendre pp142–4 are also useful tips on
Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers 7 Visegrád getting around the region
Magnificent frescoes in thceoSeurbniatnleOsrsthhodiokxinChgurachnindRnácaketvuere trails. The Royal Mansion in 8 Zebegény by car and train.
Statue of István, the GfirsötdHuönlglőariatnoktinhge, aet Eassztterigsowm –orthtehsisteeoefihnisgc,oraonnadtiosnouth of 9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa
Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs. National Park
0 Esztergom pp146–9

ZEBEGÉNY Kosd The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich
VÁC
ESZTERGOM VISEGRÁD

Komárom Leányfalu VÁCRÁTÓT
Dorog SZENTENDRE Göd

Veresegyház Aszód Debrecen Key
Tura
Pomáz Dunakeszi Motorway
Major road
Pilisvörösvar Duna (Danub e ) Major road under construction
Secondary road
Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa Solymár Fót GÖDÖLLŐ Minor road
Main railway
Getting Around Zsámbék Csömör Kerepes Minor railway
Budapest has an international airport, and from here Győr Kistarcsa International border
destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are Isaszeg Regional border
best reached by train, on the Budapest suburban rail
network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be Budakeszi
visited by train or car. During the summer months, the
most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart Budaörs BUDAPEST Pécel Jászberény
Passnave motorboat, departing northwards from Vigadó
tér in Budapest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at Biatorbágy
most towns along the way. Other services go to
Szentendre and Vác. Törökbálint Sülysáp

Vecsés Gyömrő
Üllő
Érd Gyál

Székes- Szigetszent- Monor
fehérvár miklós

Százhalom- Szigethalom
batta Dunavarsány

Ráckevei-Duna ÓCSA Inárcs Szolnok

Ercsi PEST

Bugyi Újhartyán

Kiskunlacháza Dabas
RÁCKEVE

Kecskemét

Dömsöd

Dunaúj- Kalocsa
város

0 kilometres 10
0 miles
10 A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary 1 6 6  HtUowNn hGallAin VRácY R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA  167
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For additional keys to symbols see back flap

Each region of Hungary can The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják collection of ecclesiastical family, who bought the town in
be quickly identified using art. Another room contains 1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
the colour coding on the a series of frescoes by István brought in Italian architects to
inside front cover. Dorfmeister based on life in create a genuine Renaissance
ancient Savaria. masterpiece, which, with
w Ják e Szombathely various additions, survives more One of the outdoor pools at the Bükfürdő Health and Adventure Centre
A short walk from the or less intact to the present day.
12 km (7 miles) south of Szombathely. 101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr. cathedral is Fő tér, today t Bük disorders, and the grounds are
Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from the main centre of the city Much of the castle is given well laid out with grassy areas,
Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from and a shopper’s paradise that over to the Ferenc Nádasdy 24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom- children’s playgrounds, snack
Szombathely. is popular with mothers and Museum, the highlight of which bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100. bars and restaurants. A fair-sized
Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg. children. There are further are two series of frescoes: £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @ resort has also grown up around
Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin 17th-century works showing from Szombathely. n Tourinform, the pool complex, and the
3 Detailed information All the The Benedictine St George’s n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31 Garden on Batthány tér, featuring the Hungarians in battle with Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19. Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa
important towns and other a temple to the goddess Isis, the Turks and scenes from the (see p293), a short walk from
places to visit are described 72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music believed to be one of only three Old Testament painted by István Thermal springs were discovered the thermal baths, is home to
individually. They are listed in ever found in Europe. Next door Dorfmeister in 1769. There are at this village near the Austrian Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
order, following the numbering Abbey Church (Jáki Szent Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug). is the Szombathely Gallery. In also exhibitions of the family’s border in 1956 during a search It is the only 18-hole course in
on the Regional Map. Each entry May, when more than 50 kinds and town’s histories, regional for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő Hungary to have hosted a
has details of the main sights. György Bence’s Apátsági of rhododendron are in full folk art and period furniture. Health and Adventure Centre professional golf tournament.
bloom, the Kámoni Arboretum The castle is reached via a long has grown to become one of
Templom) is the best-preserved Founded by the Romans in north of the city centre is well stone bridge over what was Hungary’s largest, and most  Bük Medicinal Baths
worth a visit. once a moat. attractive medicinal bath Termál körút 2. Tel (94) 55 80 80.
and most impressive example AD 43, and known as Savaria, complexes. There are 32 indoor Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest In 1961, during a search for and outdoor pools of various sizes summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
of Romanesque architecture in Szombathely was an important Baroque church oil (see below), hot springs and temperatures, offering treat- &7
(44 °C/111 °F) were found in ments for a variety of different
Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this trading and staging post on r Sárvár Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa
and Wellness Centre is now
twin-towered masterpiece, the “Amber Road” from the 25 km (16 miles) east of Szombathely. one of the largest bath com-
Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from plexes and, after its renovation
influenced by late Norman Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August Szombathely. @ from Szombathely. and extension, the most mod-
n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52 ern in Hungary. It comprises
architecture, sits imposingly on the Savaria Carnival recreates 01 78). indoor and outdoor pools,
leisure and splash pools, a
a hilltop above the village. The those ancient days, and The Magyars built an earth sauna and a treatment centre
castle (sárvár translates quite offering various therapies.
western façade is worthy of note hundreds of volunteers don literally as “mud castle”) here in
the 10th century. Long before E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum
with its recessed doorway, a Roman costumes and engage that it appears the Romans Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58.
had some fortifications here, Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun:
richly decorated portal featuring in battles, dancing and music. and even the Celts found this 9am–5pm. & 8
confluence of the Rába river a  Sárvár Spa and Wellness
almost life-size carvings of Jesus The remains of the once-vast sound defensive position. The Centre
Sárvár Castle that now attracts Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00.
and the Apostles. This style, Roman Forum (Savaria was visitors is far from the mud of Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7
yore, however, having been
called the Porta Speciosa the capital of Roman Pannonia built in the 16th century. Its The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with Oil and Water
patrons were the Nádasdy superb battle frescoes
technique, was refined here Superior) are among Many of the largest thermal
bath complexes in Hungary,
before becoming a model the city’s leading such as those at Bük and
Sárvár, have only been in
for Romanesque sights, with mosaic existence since the latter
part of the 20th century,
churches all over floors and the when the thermal springs
that serve them were
Hungary. Inside the public baths clearly found during oil searches.
Desperate to fuel its
church are original visible. There is industrialization, Hungary’s
Communist government
14th-century more Roman hoped that the discovery of
the Nagylengyel oil field in
frescoes showing treasure on show the west of the country in Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
1951 would be the first of
the church’s at the Savaria many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
founder, Jáki Nagy Detail on the portal of the Museum. Standing as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
Márton, and his Benedictine abbey in Ják next to the ruins is oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
family. The church the city’s cathedral,

was fully restored in 1890 Hungary’s largest Baroque

by Frigyes Schulek, who also church, built in 1791–4. Its

restored the Mátyás Church interior suffered great damage

in Budapest (see pp66–7). The during World War II and is

tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite undergoing continuous resto-

was built in 1260 for the use ration work. However, it is open

of non-monastic villagers. to the public. Next to it is the

Bishop’s Palace, an attractive

R St George’s Abbey Church Rococo building whose Sala

Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am– Terrena houses the Diocesan
6pm daily. 7
Museum, which has a fine

180  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA  181
h Pannonhalma Abbey
Basilica Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST The visitors’ checklist gives all the
The story of Pannonhalma Abbey is as old as The Basilica’s stained- Late Gothic vaulting in the practical information needed to
Hungary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since glass windows were cloister was added during Practical Information plan your visit.
1996, there has been an abbey here since 1002, added in around 1860. renovation of the abbey, Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
the same year St István brought Christianity to the This one depicts St carried out during the reign miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
Magyars. The original abbey burned down and was Ladislaus, or László I, a of King Mátyás, in 1486. Tel (96) 57 01 91. Open 21 Mar–
replaced in 1137 with a Romanesque construction, pious knight-king of Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm
itself superseded by the late Romanesque–early the 11th century Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
Gothic basilica still in existence today. The basilica’s canonized a century Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
main portal of receding arches is one of the most after his death. Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–
important surviving examples of a Porta Speciosa Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
extant in Hungary. & 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =

Transport
£@

. Arboretum 4 Major Sights Historic buildings
The arboretum on the are dissected to reveal their
eastern slope has been interiors; museums and galleries
the site of more than have colour­coded floorplans to
1,200 rare tree, shrub and help you find the most
herbaceous plant species important exhibits.
since 1802. Most of the
species have grown wild Story boxes highlight specific aspects
in the abbey’s grounds. relating to a top sight and explore these
in more depth.
Our Lady Chapel
On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny
organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.

. Porta Speciosa Main entrance Western Tower
Though now hemmed in by Very much the abbey’s calling card,
extensions to the complex, the
Porta Speciosa is an outstanding and its most recognizable feature,
example of its kind – an the Western Tower, added in 1832,
ornamental portal held in red
marble with rich wood carvings. can be seen from far away.

KEY . Library The Benedictine Order
The Neo-Classical library holds
1 The Benedictine Grammar 400,000 volumes, including the The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
School was founded in 1802 and Tihany Manuscript, the earliest Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy,
is one of the finest in Hungary. The example of written Hungarian. in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
entrance exams are famously tough. turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
2 The Treasury is home to a rich nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines.
collection of ecclesiastical art and Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma
historical artifacts. is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 abbey), Benedictine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.

A wine produced at Pannonhalma

Ede Heinrich, The Coronation of Franz Joseph I on 8 June 1867



INTRODUCING
HUNGARY

Discovering Hungary 10–15

Putting Hungary on the Map 16–17

A Portrait of Hungary 18–33

Hungary Through the Year 34–37

The History of Hungary 38–51

10  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

DISCOVERING HUNGARY

The itineraries on the following pages have must-see sights, stopping off at the key
been designed to include as many of towns and cities, as well as some of the areas
Hungary’s highlights as possible, while of outstanding natural beauty. Lastly, there
keeping long-distance travel manageable. is a wonderful two-week tour of the whole
First comes a two-day tour of the country’s country, which takes in all the sights of the
exhilarating capital, Budapest. This is followed one-week tour and much more besides. Extra
by a two-day tour of Lake Balaton, with suggestions are provided for those who wish
suggestions for places to visit both along the to extend their stay by another day or so: add
shoreline itself and just inland. A one-week one, or perhaps two or three, or just dip in
tour of the country covers many of Hungary’s and out and take things at your own pace.

Danube (Duna) Esztergom Vác
Győr
Sopron Fertőd Pannonhalma Tata Visegrád
Kőszeg Szentendre

Őrség Budapest
Region
Rába Lake
Velence

View across tiled rooftops from Sopron’s Herend Danube (Duna)
Firewatch Tower to the Benedictine Church Veszprém

A Week in Hungary Tihany Siófok

• Spend the day exploring Hévíz Badacsony Lake Balatonföldvár
noble Budapest, Hungary’s Balaton Köröshegy
great capital city. Kiskunsági
Kis- Keszthely National Park
• Head to Lake Balaton to chill Balaton
out on the beach or try your
hand at some watersports. Kaposvár Baja

• Marvel at extraordinary Szigetvár Pécs
pre-Christian and Turkish Drava
monuments in lively Pécs. Siklós Mohács
Villány
• Seek out ecclesiastical
treasures in Szeged, including
the Great Synagogue.

• Witness stunning
horsemanship in the
Hortobágy National Park on
Hungary’s Great Plain.

• Visit a UNESCO-listed village
dedicated to indigenous
folk culture, then continue
onwards to the gorgeously
Baroque town of Vác.

Marvel at the poise of the legendary csikós, or cowboys, of the Great Plain

DISCOVERING HUNGARY  11

The fairytale Parliament building in Budapest

Aggteleki
National Park

Szilvásvárad Lillafüred Tokaj
Bükk Nyíregyháza
National Park

Hollókő

Eger (Tisza)

Tis a
Tiszafüred

Lake Hortobágy Debrecen
Tisza National Park

Kecskemét Körös

0 kilometres 50
0 miles
50

Szeged

Two Weeks in Hungary

Key • Admire the architecture, • Visit the forested Orség
A Week in Hungary wallow in steam baths, region, unspoiled rural
Two Weeks in Hungary and enjoy the coffee Hungary at its finest.
houses of Budapest.
• Marvel at the art of
• Follow the dramatic Csontváry and Art
sweep of the Danube Nouveau master Rippl-
Bend, taking in the Rónai, in Pécs and
architectural treasures Kaposvár respectively.
found in charming
towns along the route. • Explore the fabulously
preserved old town of
• Savour legendary Bull’s Sopron, and take a tour
Blood red wine in Eger, of the opulent Esterházy
then sip a glass of golden Palace, where Haydn
sweet wine from Tokaj. once performed.

12  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Two Days in Budapest Synagogue, the largest in Europe, Baroque statue supporting a window lintel
before heading up Andrássy út at Festetics Palace near Keszthely
Straddling the Danube, to view – or even take a tour of
Hungary’s capital city offers – the opulent Opera House before enjoying a cultural fix at
two contrasting, but equally (pp92–3) and the striking eight- the village museum in Zamárdi
compelling, sides – Buda sided Oktogon square, beyond (p199). Board the ferry to the
and Pest. which lies the engrossing, but lake’s northern shore, landing at
sobering, House of Terror the Tihany Peninsula (p206),
• Arriving Budapest Liszt Museum (p105). with its pleasing little village
Ferenc Airport is 20km (13 crowned by the Abbey Church.
miles) southeast of the city. It’s Afternoon Ride the beautifully Lunch in one of the village’s
about 50 minutes by public preserved M1 metro line to many traditional restaurants.
transport to the centre. Heroes’ Square (pp108–9) and
its mighty monuments. Then, Afternoon Make the short trip
Day 1 either amble around the lake in to Balatonfüred (p207) for a
Morning Explore the Castle Városliget park (p110) before walk along the shoreline of the
District (pp56–69), the historic visiting Budapest Zoo (p121), lake’s most graceful resort.
heart of Buda. Admire the fine whose Secessionist-style animal Return back down along the
13th-century Mátyás Church enclosures are a delight, or go coast to Badacsony Mountain
(pp66–7) before taking in the for a blissful soak in the fabulous (p205), and follow the trail up
superlative views across the Széchenyi Baths (p111). into the vineyard-clad hills and
Danube from the Fisherman’s the Kisfaludy Lookout Tower,
Bastion (p64). Move on to the Two Days on where you can enjoy views of
Royal Palace (pp58–9), home to Lake Balaton the lake with a glass of wine.
the engrossing Hungarian
National Gallery (pp62–3). Holiday playground for Day 2
many Hungarians, and the Morning Heading inland, visit
Afternoon After lunch on the largest lake in central Tapolca (p205), whose sublime
Hill, take the Sikló funicular Europe, Balaton is packed setting is one of the best on the
down to the majestic Chain with both active and lake; do not miss the incredible
Bridge. Cross the bridge to Pest cultural pursuits. Cave Lake. Back down on the
and St Stephen’s Basilica (pp90– shoreline, the pretty village of
91), Budapest’s most important • Arriving From Budapest Szigliget (p204–5) lies in wait,
ecclesiastical building. Ride the airport, you can hire a car, go with its atmospheric castle ruins.
scenic no. 2 tram along the Pest by train from Budapest Déli
embankment as far as the station, or take a domestic
Central Market Hall (p118), flight to Keszthely – in which
where you can indulge your case, reverse the itinerary.
senses and treat yourself to a
few goodies. In the evening, • Getting Around Public
take in a performance at the transport is feasible; a car
Liszt Academy of Music (p105). gives you more flexibility.

Day 2 Day 1
Morning Absorb yourself in the Morning Take to the beach in
atmospheric Jewish Quarter Siófok (p198), and perhaps try
(p104), dominated by the Great your hand at some watersports,

Budapest’s Royal Palace atop Castle Hill, the historic heart of Buda Afternoon Venture round to
For practical information on getting around Budapest, see pp310–11 the lake’s western shore and
Keszthely (pp200–201), packed
with great museums and the
Festetics Palace (pp202–3),
notable for its remarkable
Helikon library and gorgeous
English gardens. Have a pit stop
in one of the town’s convivial
cafés before the short trip to
Héviz (p204) for a soak in one of
the world’s largest thermal lakes.

DISCOVERING HUNGARY  13

One Week in Hungary

• Arriving Arrive at Budapest
Liszt Ferenc Airport. It’s
about 50 minutes by public
transport to the centre.

• Getting Around A car is
essential for this trip.

Day 1: Budapest Tokaj wine ageing in underground rock-hewn cellars
Pick a day from the city itinerary
opposite; Day 1 takes in the
city’s major historical and
cultural landmarks, or mix and
match to suit your taste.

Day 2: Lake Balaton Day 3: Kaposvár to the renowned csikós (the Plains
Head southwest from Budapest Villány-Siklós Wine Road cowboys) and their thrilling
to Lake Balaton (pp198–9). Due south of Balaton lies displays of horsemanship.
Start in Tihany (p206), where Kaposvár (p189), which merits a
you can nose around this visit by virtue of its links to To extend your trip…
pretty village, crowned by a József Rippl-Rónai, one of Drive to Hungary’s second
glorious abbey church, or go Hungary’s most celebrated city, Debrecen (pp254–5), in
off and explore the peninsula’s artists. Continue south again to eastern Hungary, then on to
inland lakes. After lunch, board Pécs (pp190–91), a vibrant city Nyíregyháza (pp258–9),
the ferry to Siófok (p198) on noted for its splendid Turkish- whose church architecture
the southern shore; try your influenced architecture. End the is second to none.
hand at some beach activities, day with a short tour along the
then, for a drop of culture, sunny wine road between Day 6: Through the Northern
follow the shoreline down to Villány (p187) and Siklós Highlands
Balatonföldvár (p199) and (p188), home to many of No better way to start the day
its exceptional Iron Age Hungary’s most renowned than by sampling some world-
fortifications, or Köröshegy vintners; dozens of cellars await famous Tokaj wine, in the town
(p199) and its Gothic church. for some impromptu tasting. of the same name (p232). Take a
trip through the beech-covered
To extend your trip… Day 4: Baja to Kesckemét hills of Bükk National Park
Continue along the lake’s Cross the Danube near Baja (pp224–5), visiting either the
western shore to cultured (p238) – fish capital of Hungary Anna Cave in Lillafüred (p225)
Keszthely (pp200–201) and the – and push on towards Szeged or the Lipizzaner horses in
thermal lake at Héviz (p204). (pp246–7); here, an architectural Szilvásvárad (p228). In the far
treasure trove awaits, notably western reaches of the
Visegrád on the Danube Bend, at one of the the Great Synagogue and Reök Highlands, explore Hollókő
river’s narrowest points Palace, two Secessionist master- (pp218–19), an extraordinary two-
pieces. Drive north through street village where traditional
Kiskunság National Park (p239) customs remain strong.
to Kecskemét (pp240–41) where
you’ll find fabulous museums. Day 7: Down the Danube
Spend a day by the Danube.
Day 5: Across the Great Plain Begin in Vác (p137) with a stroll
Make your way into the heart of around its gorgeous Baroque
the Great Plain, the first stop of square, then board the ferry to
the day being Lake Tisza Visegrád (p145) on the west
(pp252–3) where you can try bank, whose citadel and palace
your hand at some boating or both merit a visit, as do the
birdwatching – or just chill out surrounding hills. Continue
on the beach. After a picnic south along the river to
lunch, head east to Hortobágy Szentendre (pp142–4) and
National Park (p256), classic learn about the town’s strong
Puszta territory, with its diverse Serbian links and rich artistic
range of wildlife (water buffalo, legacy. From here, it’s a short
corkscrew-horned sheep and trip back to Budapest.
wild boar). It’s also home to the

14  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Hortobágy National Park
(p256), distinguished by its
superb nine-arched stone
bridge, though the real
highlight will be a breath-
taking display of horsemanship
by the blue-skirted csikós
cowboys of the Plain.

The town of Eger, famous for its robust red wine Day 6: Lake Tisza to
Kecskemét
Two Weeks in charms of Hollókő (pp218–9), The vast Plain extends west
Hungary where you can also learn about towards Lake Tisza (pp252–3) –
the customs of the local Palóc the country’s second-largest
• Arriving Arrive at Budapest people. Spend the afternoon lake after Balaton and home
Liszt Ferenc Airport. It’s perusing the rich and varied to some stunning birdlife,
about 50 minutes by public sights of Eger (p220–23), including peregrine falcons.
transport to the centre. especially its fabulous castle There are watersports available
(part of which can be explored too, particularly around
• Getting Around A car is underground) and graceful Tiszafüred (p250), the lake’s
essential for this trip. 16th-century minaret. main resort. Turning south,
Trying some of Eger’s famous Kecskemét (pp240–43) has an
Day 1: Budapest “Bulls Blood” wine is a must. exceptional stock of Baroque
Pick a day from the city itinerary and Secessionist masterpieces;
on page 12. Day 1 takes in the Day 4: Bükk National Park don’t miss the wildly colourful,
city’s major landmarks, or mix to Tokaj Art Nouveau Cifrapalota palace,
and match to suit your taste. In the morning, make for the housing a wonderful gallery.
forested heights of the Bükk
Day 2: Along the hills in the Bükk National Park Day 7: Szeged
Danube Bend (p224–5), whose abundant Second only in size to
Head north out of Budapest attractions include the Hortobágy, the Kiskunság
to Szentendre (pp142–4), magnificent Lipizzaner horses in National Park (p239) has a
a former Serbian enclave Szilvásvárad (p228) and the similarly horsey vibe, thanks
replete with fine ecclesiastical Anna Cave in Lillafüred (p225). to the Bugac stud farm.
architecture, artistic treasures There are, though, even more Devote the rest of the day to
and the unmissable Hungarian spectacular caves at Baradla in sightseeing in Szeged (pp246–7).
Open-Air Museum. Further up the Aggtelek National Park Start in Dóm square, flanked
the Danube, Visegrád (p145) (p228) skirting the Slovakian by handsome arcades and
hoves into view, defined by its border. Round off the day in overlooked by the mighty
two major historical ruins – the Tokaj (p232), Hungary’s most Votive Church, then cross
Royal Palace and the citadel. celebrated wine region, with a town to the New Synagogue,
After a riverside lunch, track the glass of Tokaji Aszú.
course of the Danube round to The Votive Church in Szeged, with its twin
Esztergom (pp146–9), Hungary’s Day 5: Nyíregyháza to the 100-m (328-ft) towers
most important religious centre; Hortobágy National Park
check out the mighty Basilica Moving eastwards onto the
and the spooky crypt below. Great Plain, there’s outstanding
church architecture on show
Day 3: Vác to Eger in Nyíregyháza (pp258–9). From
Having transferred to the here, go south to Debrecen
Danube’s east bank, enjoy the (pp254–5), Hungary’s second
Baroque splendour of Vác city and a Calvinist stronghold;
(p137), and the winsome enjoy, too, the city’s modern
National Botanical Gardens. thermal baths and fine
Take some time to explore the restaurants. Next, drive to

For practical information on travelling around Hungary, see pp306–9

DISCOVERING HUNGARY  15

Festetics Palace, housing a superb library and several unusual museums Day 12: The Őrség Region
to Sopron
which is distinguished by its northern shore. Disembark at From Balaton, head west to the
magnificent blue stained-glass Tihany Peninsula (p206) and lush, thickly forested Őrség
dome. For a spot of post- walk up to exquisitely pretty Region (p163), dotted with pretty
sightseeing refreshment, Tihany village. After lunch, work villages. Turning north, take
seek out Klauzál square and its your way along the shoreline to some time to amble around
buzzing outdoor cafés. Badacsony (p205), where you delightfully sleepy Kőszeg
can divide your afternoon (pp168–9), the most attractive
Day 8: Mohács to Pécs between the village itself and town in western Transdanubia.
Cross the Danube at Mohács Badacsony mountain, a stiff Continue north to Sopron
(pp186–7) for the Memorial Park, climb but well worth it for the (pp172–5), with, arguably,
site of the famous Battle of marvellous lake views. Hungary’s finest medieval old
Mohács in 1526. The route west town; climb its Firewatch Tower
from here takes you along the Day 11: Keszthely and Héviz for superlative views.
lovely wine road between The lake’s western shore
Villány (p187)and Siklós (p188), beckons this morning, and first Day 13: Győr and
where it’d be remiss not to up is Keszthely (pp200–201), Pannonhalma Abbey
pause in one or two of the Balaton’s most charming town; Leaving Sopron, visit the
many cellars along the way. take a guided tour of the stately Esterházy Palace in Fertőd (p171),
From here, take a sharp turn Festetics Palace (pp202–3), a Baroque and Rococo master-
north to Pécs (pp190–91), as then stroll around its fragrant piece; you may even catch a
vibrant a city as any in Hungary; rose gardens. A few miles out lunchtime concert in the room
one place not to miss is the of town, while away an hour or where Haydn used to perform.
Csontváry Museum, containing so in Héviz (p204), the world’s The next major town heading
the oeuvre of one of Hungary’s second-largest thermal lake; east is Győr (p178–9), stuffed
greatest painters. note that hiring a rubber ring with Baroque churches and
is de rigueur. Returning south, mansions. It’s a short hop south
Day 9: Szigetvár to Lake make for the reedy Kis- to the sombre elegance of
Balaton Balaton (“Little Balaton”) Pannonhalma Abbey (p180–81),
Travel north to Szigetvár (p194) nature reserve (p198), where with its awesome 330,000-
to view the town’s numerous you’ll encounter an impressive volume Empire-style library.
Turkish relics, before continuing range of migratory birds.
to Kaposvár (p189), whose Day 14: Tata to Lake Velence
most important sights revolve Begin your last day in Tata
around the work of József (p177), a delightful lakeside town
Rippl-Rónai, the father of nestled around a moated castle.
Hungarian Art Nouveau. Head Then discover how some of the
due north again and you’ll finest hand-painted porcelain
eventually reach the clean, in the world is made, touring
shallow waters of Lake Balaton the Herend factory with its
(pp198–9). Enjoy a sundown tempting shop. From here,
stroll before a fish supper at strike out for Veszprém (p208–
one of the lakeside restaurants. 9) and its beautifully preserved
Castle District. Ornithologists
will appreciate a stop at bird
haven Lake Velence (p154) on
the way back to Budapest.

Day 10: Lake Balaton The most famed landmark in Pannonhalma, the Benedictine Pannonhalma Abbey
If the weather allows, hit the
beach in Siófok (p198), then
hop aboard the ferry to the

16  INTRODUCING HUNGARY Vlkolínec
Banská
Putting Hungary on the Map Bystrica

The Republic of Hungary is one of the smallest states in Europe, Zvolen
with an area of 93,031 sq km (35,919 sq miles). From west to
east it is 528 km (328 miles) at its widest point and from north Šahy
to south is just 268 km (167 miles). Hungary has borders with Da n ube
Slovakia to the north, Ukraine to the northeast, Romania to
the southeast, Serbia and Croatia to the south and Slovenia Hron
and Austria to the west. Entirely landlocked, it is split into
three by the rivers Danube (Duna) and Tisa (Tisza), which
traverse it from north to south. Lake Balaton, the main
geographical feature, is central Europe’s largest lake.

Wiener Neusiedler Danube (Duna) Vác
Neustadt See Győr

Sopron

Tatabánya

AUSTRIA Rába BUDAPEST
Szombathely See inset
Hartberg map below

Székesfehérvár

Veszprém

Zalaegerszeg Lake Siofók Előszállás
Balaton
Solt

Hévíz-Balaton Balatonlelle
Airport
SLOVENIA
Nagykanizsa
Maribor

Vése Kaposvár Szekszárd

Varaždin

CROATIA Pécs Baja
Szigetvár Osijek
Europe N O R W AY
SWEDEN Drava
North ESTONIA
Sea DENMARK LATVIA
LITHUANIA

REP. OF UNITED NETH. POLAND BELARUS
IRELAND KINGDOM GERMANY UKRAINE

BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC
CROATIA
SLOVAKIA

Atlantic SWITZ. AUSTRIA Hungary (D una)
Ocean
FRANCE SLOV. ROMANIA
CROATIA

BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
I TA LY
MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA

SPAIN ALBANIA MAC.

PORTUGAL GREECE

MOROCCO A L G E R I A TUNISIA

For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING HUNGARY ON THE MAP  17

Poprad Levoča

Prešov Nyzhni
Vorota
S L O VA K I A Košice Užhorod
Košice Airport Záhony UKRAINE
Lučenec
Sena Mukacheve

Encs

Salgótarján Miskolc Tisa (Tisza)

Eger Nyíregyháza Mátészalka

Gyöngyös Satu
Mare
Körös Tisa (T
Gödöllő isza)
Debrecen
Jászberény
Debrecen
Airport

Püspökladány

Pilis
Szolnok

HUNGARY

Kecskemét

0 km 50
0 miles 25

Békéscsaba

Szeged Key

Arad Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Railway
International border

Subotica

Tisa ROMANIA Budapest and

Újpest Environs

Óbuda Újpalota

Angyalföld Árpádföld

SERBIA  Zugliget Zugló Sashalom

BUDAPEST

Mátyásföld

Zrenjanin Sasad
Budaörs

Novi Sad Kelenföld Erzsébettelep
Albertfalva Budapest
Kispest
Budafok Csepel Pesterzsébet Ferenc Liszt
Airport

Belgrade Budatétény Danub e

Belgrade Nikola Pančevo Királyerdó 0 km 4
Tesla 0 miles
4
Šabac



A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  19

A PORTRAIT
OF HUNGARY

Situated in the heart of Europe, at the centre of the continent, Hungary is a
land with a rich history, a charming people and a culture that encompasses
music and art, as well as fertile wine regions. Outside the romantic capital,
Budapest, is a diverse landscape of lakes, forests and mountains, with
enticing medieval cities and historic castles.

On paper Hungary’s physical attractions Hungary has been at the crossroads of
look less than overwhelming; its tallest both trade and cultures for as long as the
peak reaches just over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) continent has been inhabited. Many of
and there is no sea coast. But it has got the country’s most enduring traditions
Balaton, Europe’s largest lake outside predate the arrival of the Magyars in the
Scandinavia and the nation’s very Carpathian Basin in AD 896, and these are
own “inland sea”, as well as the mighty upheld and preserved in the hundreds of
Danube river, which makes a dramatic lively festivals held in towns and villages
turn south before splitting Budapest in around the country each year.
two. Furthermore, there is the endless
Puszta, or Great Plain, where csikósok – Hungary remains the land of the Magyars
Hungary’s sturdy cowboys – still ride. nevertheless, a proud people and a nation
In addition, there are the ancient castles, that has spent more than a millennium both
fascinating churches and cathedrals, welcoming outsiders and fending off
historic spa baths, and numerous invaders. History has not always been kind
cities that can boast some of the finest to this land, but Hungary’s historical
Gothic, Baroque and Secessionist (Art legacy is rich and very well preserved.
Nouveau) architecture in Europe.
Since abandoning Communism in 1989,
the country has experienced rapid change

Hungary’s vast Great Plain, covering one-third of the country and famous for its highly skilled cowboys
Stained-glass window depicting St Leopold of Austria in Saint Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest

20  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

The ruins of Csesznek castle, Bakony Mountains 10th century. Despite centuries of war,
occupation and the ever-present fear of
and (often uneven) economic growth. being swallowed up by its neighbours,
But while the scars of state socialism Hungary and the Magyars survived
remain – most notably in the bland and even flourished. Contemporary
apartment blocks that encircle most Hungarians remain extremely proud of
cities – Hungarians are largely more their roots in the steppes of Asia, and
affluent and optimistic than ever. they go to great lengths to preserve
their traditions. The dramatic displays
National Origins of horsemanship that take place on the
Puszta may be primarily for the benefit
Most modern Hungarians trace their of visitors but they also help retain a link
ancestry to the Magyars, an Asiatic people with the past, as does the enormous
of relatively obscure origins who arrived in panoramic painting that fills the replica
the region shortly before the start of the tribal chieftain’s tent at Ópusztaszer, near
Szeged, commemorating the arrival of the
Magyars. The painting is dismissed by some
as kitsch and unworthy of our time, yet it
plays an important role in preserving
the spirit and memory of the nomadic
Magyars. For better or worse, it is
Hungarian nationalism that has kept
the nation and the culture alive.

Culture and Society

Hungarians are very polite, formal people.
Older men still kiss women’s hands on
meeting and even close friends shake
hands when they get together. But while
all this civility may help to oil the wheels

Young dancers in traditional folk costume performing at one of Hungary’s many festivals

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  21

An indoor pool at the Gellért Hotel and Baths complex found, most strikingly in the mosque
at Pécs, now recycled as a Christian
that turn a sometimes difficult society, it church, and in the towering minaret
can be interpreted as aloofness, a desire at Eger, as well as in the handful of
to keep “outsiders” (foreigners and other wonderfully preserved 16th-century
Hungarians) at a distance. This is not thermal bath houses in Budapest.
really the case; Hungarians simply need Hungary also once had a thriving
a while to make up their minds about Jewish population, but it was deci-
people. There is also the language issue: mated during World War II, when
Hungarian does not belong to the Indo- most Jews were sent to concentration
European language family, meaning camps. Neglected synagogues still
that Russian and Hindi are closer to found in many of Hungary’s cities
English than Magyar is. It is part of the and towns are a testament to the
Finno-Ugric group, and due to millennia numbers who died.
of separation it is not even mutually
intelligible with its closest cousins, Most Hungarians who profess any
Finnish and Estonian. As a result, visitors religion at all say they are Roman
will recognize few words, and trying to Catholic (52 per cent). But religion in
order a glass of vino in a bar gets you Hungary has often been a question
nowhere; the word for wine is bor. of expediency. Under King Stephen I
Few foreigners ever master Hungarian Catholicism, as opposed to Orthodoxy,
completely, even after years of patient was introduced to the country and,
study, and Hungarians themselves are while the majority of Hungarians were
not particularly enthusiastic linguists. quite happily Calvinists by the end of
English is, however, becoming more the 16th century, many donned a new
popular as a second language, especially mantle during the Counter-Reformation
among younger people in the cities. under the Habsburgs. As a result of
these swings, Hungarians tend to have
The Magyars are not the only people a pragmatic view of religion and there is
to have left their mark or helped form very little bigotry. Today, however, both
modern Hungarian society. Germans Catholicism and Calvinism appear to be
and Slovaks settled here as long ago as losing their influence as the country
the reign of King Stephen I (István) from becomes more and more secular.
AD 1000 to 1038, and on the Great Plain
Balkan influences in the form of the The symphony orchestra and state choir, Budapest
region’s lively markets can still be seen.
There are also Turkish footprints to be

22  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

A market stall selling fresh and dried produce austerity measures taken by Gyurcsány’s
government were nearly as unpopular
Politics and Economics as his style. Finally, in 2009, Gyurcsány
resigned, and was replaced by his
The social dislocation inherent in some economic minister, Gordon Bajnai. Despite
Bajnai’s relative economic successes, in the
post-Soviet societies has been avoided subsequent elections of 2010, the Viktor
Orbán-led Fidesz – Hungarian Civic Alliance
by an often shaky but relatively steady – won with a landslide, taking two-thirds of
the seats in Parliament. Orbán used this
consensus among the political parties as supermajority to change virtually all
aspects of life in Hungary, including the
to what Hungary needed in the wake of country’s constitution, election and judicial
system. The Orbán government introduced
Communism’s unconventional new taxes and economic
regulations, harshly criticized both in
collapse. A top Hungary and internationally as probing the
limits of democracy and as being a means
priority was of playing economic power into the hands
of loyal friends. But despite this, in 2014
membership in Fidesz again won all parliamentary,
municipal and European Parliament
the EU, for even elections with a landslide, maintaining its
two-thirds majority in Parliament.
the former
Economically Hungary is in the doldrums,
Communists who its dream of adopting the euro any time
soon not even on the agenda. In 2014,
initially opposed the average monthly net salary in Hungary
was less than than 500 euros, while
the idea realized Hungary levies a world-record 27 per cent
VAT on even basic commodities like
that to remain
The ornate interior of a Budapest coffee house
outside Europe

Sunflowers, cultivated throughout would be ruinous

the Hungarian countryside both politically

and economically.

However, the economy was ailing and

living standards started to deteriorate. In

2006, a controversial speech given by the

newly re-elected Prime Minister Ferenc

Gyurcsány to his inner party circles was

leaked. In it he admitted they had been

lying about the state of the economy and

what measures were to be taken after the

elections, and riots broke out in the streets

of Budapest. Although demanded by

many, even within his government

coalition, Gyurcsány did not resign. Soon

afterwards the global financial crisis hit

Hungary’s already weak economy. The

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  23

A grape-picker with grapes ready for making into Tokaji wine

food. With jobs becoming rare and hopes towns and villages owe everything to
fading away, there is a growing and Budapest. The imperial majesty of the
unprecedented new tendency for capital is captivating but the rest of
Hungarians to leave the country. Hungary also has a wealth of history,
character and architecture to offer. Several
But Hungary does have a long history of ongoing projects and development
innovation and discovery, and boasts an programmes – many co-founded by the
enviable list of world-class scientists, EU – address this issue, and the Hungary
engineers and inventors. Vitamin C, the outside of Budapest is developing fast.
biro, the safety match – not to mention Yet central Hungary, with Budapest at
the world-renowned Rubik’s Cube – all its heart, is still home to one third of the
originated here. Hungarians continue to population and produces nearly half of
tread new paths, and since 1989 Hungary the country’s GDP.
has developed as a centre of scientific
research; indeed, governments of all
political persuasions have promoted their
country as a knowledge-based economy.

Modern Life Outdoor dining at one of Szentendre’s restaurants

If modern Hungary has one drawback,
though, it is the dependence on the
capital for everything. To borrow an old
French expression about Paris, many
people here believe that “when Budapest
sneezes, Hungary catches cold”. Although
the country’s geography and history may
dictate in some ways that all roads lead
to Budapest, it is often frustrating when
the best way of travelling from one place
to another is via the capital. Provincial
Hungarians find it particularly galling and
a constant reminder that their own cities,

24  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Landscape and Wildlife of Hungary

The Great Plain, a rich and fertile land and one of the first in The Danube river, Hungary’s defining
Europe to be cultivated, covers almost half of Hungary. It is natural feature
traversed by two major rivers: the Tisa (Tisza) in the east,
and the majestic Danube (Duna) in the west. The gentle but
scenic mountains of the Mátra range mark the nation’s
northern borders, while the forests of Transdanubia and the
great lakes of Balaton and Fertő enhance what is – for a
relatively small country – a varied and attractive landscape.

The Great Plain Lakes and Rivers

Grassland covers 12 per cent of Hungary, and The Danube is the greater river, but for many
almost all of it is in the treeless Great Plain. Hungarians the Tisza river is more important.
Modern irrigation has enabled much of the All of the country’s other rivers are tributaries
original plain to become agricultural land, but of these two. Hungary’s abundance of lakes
in the protected areas of Hortobágy and makes it a favoured destination of migrating
Kiskunság the pale green vegetation of the birds. In the northwest, Lake Fertő is also
region is preserved. popular with bird-watchers.

Herds of horses define The Great Bustard is Europe’s
the Great Plain and are largest land bird, with males
regarded as a sacred weighing up to 14 kg (31 lb). It is
part of the nation’s found throughout Hungary and
soul. Hungarians have
traditionally made great is especially common around the
horsemen and cowboys Tisza lake. Catching sight of its
or csikósok still exist. intricate spring courtship ritual is
a rare treat for bird-watchers.

Racka sheep are bred for their The Hungarian iris
milk, wool and sometimes or Iris variegata is fond

their meat, and are of damp soil and
unique to the Great marshland and thrives
Plain region of Hungary.
They are characterized on the floodplains
of the Danube.
by their long, thin,
corkscrew-like horns.

Mangalica pigs Night herons are
are hairy, almost particularly active in the evening,
sheep-like, and when they leave their woodland
nests to feed. Thick-billed, and with
are bred for their shorter legs than typical herons, the
meat. Look out for birds are most commonly found in
sausages made from Northern Transdanubia, close to
Mangalica pork. the Danube river.

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  25

Hungarian Conservation

Magyars were once considered one of the great hunting The lynx, inhabitant of the Northern
peoples of Europe, but in recent times their efforts have Mountains of Hungary
been directed into conservation. As a result, all sorts of
species that were once teetering on the brink of extinction
are being preserved. Deer, wild boar, wolves and lynxes are
again commonly spotted in the Northern Mountains. The
National Forest Plantation Programme of 1997 has enhanced
the spread of forests and the saving of vulnerable wild
flowers. Hungary’s wetlands are a preferred destination for
migrating birds and the protection of their habitat has
become a source of national pride.

The Northern Mountains Forests

Three different mountain ranges, the Mátra, A fifth of Hungary is covered in forest, and this
Bükk and Zemplén, are usually grouped is set to increase by 2035. The country’s existing
together as the Northern Mountains. As the forests, of which the main areas are the Northern
only alpine region in Hungary, they are home Mountains, the Buda Hills (see p115) and the
to some unique species. In the Mátra range, Bakony Forest (see pp160–61) are increasingly
the country’s highest peaks reach a meagre protected by conservationist legislation.
height of 1,015 m (3,330 ft).
The Dolomite flax, once
Brown bears are Hungary’s common national
commonly found flower, survives today only in
in the Carpathian the forests of the Buda Hills
arc that stretches around the capital. Both the
from northern flower and its habitat are
Hungary to fiercely protected.
Romania.

Horned eagle owls are one Lesser purple butterflies emerge
of the largest owl species, often from a deep green chrysalis at the
measuring 70 cm (28 in) in
height. Superb predators, they beginning of every July.
feed mostly on rodents and Widespread in forested
rabbits, though they occasionally areas, they spend much
devour game birds.
of their time on
treetops defending

their territory against
unwelcome rivals.

Great spotted The black stork stands
woodpeckers are a about 1 m (3 ft) tall. Mainly
frequent sight in the black, it has a white
spot on its front and a
gardens, parks and red bill and legs. This
woodlands of northern long-distance migrant
Hungary. They are one of
nine woodpecker species winters in southern Africa.

native to the country.

26  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Thermal Springs and Baths Best Thermal Baths

Hungary has been one of Europe’s great spa destinations • Aquaticum see p255
for hundreds of years. Natural hot springs pour out over • Bükfürdő see p167
80 million litres (18 million gallons) of richly mineralized • Gellért Hotel and Baths
water every day. There are more than 1,300 hot springs
in the country, of which 300 are used for bathing and Complex see pp74–5
medicinal purposes. A third of these are in Budapest, which • Hajdúszoboszló
has the greatest concentration of natural springs. Baths
have existed since Roman times but it was the Turks who Medicinal Spa see p256
exploited the natural waters for healing all sorts of ailments. • Lake Hévíz see p204
• Miskolctapolca see p229
• Nagyatád see p194
• Parádfürdő see p217
• Sárvár Spa see p167
• Széchenyi Baths see p111

A Visit to the Baths Unisex changing rooms
make the baths ideal for
The Széchenyi Baths complex in families. An attendant
Budapest (illustrated here) is in provides a locker key and
many ways the archetypal classic towel, and expects a tip.
Hungarian bathhouse, from the
complicated pricing system to the The ticket office
vast network of indoor and outdoor displays every
baths. Built on the site of a thermal
spring first discovered in 1879, conceivable price on
Széchenyi is as popular with locals a board.
as it is with visitors.

The Main Entrance
and grandiose exterior of the
Széchenyi Baths are splendid
examples of Neo-Baroque
architecture. The complex,
designed by Győző Cziegler
and Ede Dvorzsák, was
constructed in 1909–13.

Wellness Hotels Bathing in the healing waters of a
heated outdoor pool
Wellness centres, dedicated to finding a healthy balance of mind
and body, have had a long history in Hungary, ever since, in fact,
the discovery of the healing properties of thermal waters. While
the roots of the wellness movement lie in alternative medicine,
modern wellness centres are based around large, often luxury
bathhouses, which, besides thermal spas, offer a wide range of
medical, dietary and even psychiatric treatments. Massage, mud
packs and electrotherapy may also be available. Some of the best
wellness hotels have golf courses attached, such as the Greenfield
Hotel at Bükfürdő (see p293). Arthritis, rheumatism and skin disorders
are just a few of the ailments that wellness centres claim to cure, and
as such attract a large number of visitors who return year after year.

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  27

Outdoor Pools
are open all year
round, even in the
depths of winter.
Taking a bath in the
steaming water when
the air temperature is
below zero is a unique
experience. In summer,
the outdoor pools can
get very busy.

The terrace at the rear
of Széchenyi Baths
serves refreshing cold
drinks to bathers.

Chess being played is a
common sight at baths in
Hungary. Matches take place

at outdoor pools all year
round, even when there is

snow on the ground.

Saunas and steam rooms
are used by bathers after taking
a hot bath, before bathing
again in cooler water.

The spacious and At pools used for
elegant interior medicinal purposes
of the Széchenyi water temperatures are
clearly displayed at the edge
entrance hall, like that of of the pool. The hotter the
many baths in Hungary, water, it is said, the stronger
is in stark contrast to the
changing rooms, which its healing powers.
can be a little cramped.

28  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Hungarian Architecture

It is difficult to separate the development of Hungarian architecture Budapest’s Secession Post
from the country’s history. Of the Romanesque and Gothic constructions Office Savings Bank
built during the reign of the first Magyar kings, little survived the
Mongol invasion of the 13th century. Of the Renaissance era, only
remnants and reconstructions remain, though there is more of the
Baroque period to admire. The Secession (the struggle for a national
style at the end of the 19th century) mirrored the nation’s political fight
for independence. After World War II, Soviet utilitarianism took over,
and surrounded fine cities with its unsightly apartment blocks.

Roman (AD 200–450) Aquincum, originally a heavily fortified military
base, was home to as many as 40,000 people in its
The first master builders in Hungary were the heyday at the end of the 2nd century.
Romans, much of whose capital, Aquincum, in
the suburbs of present-day Budapest, survives. Heavy granite The use of stone to reinforce
Amphitheatres, fortifications and giant statues stone was used in concrete walls lent an aesthetic
were erected making use of opus cimenticum the construction of quality to Roman constructions.
(concrete), a Roman invention that enabled round arches. Ceramic tiles were also used to
great loads to be supported by giant pillars. decorate concrete walls.

Colonnades were often used to
mask heavy, load-bearing walls.

Romanesque and Gothic (1000–1450)

Also referred to as Norman architecture, the Romanesque period was one of the most energetic
phases of church building ever witnessed in Europe. On becoming king of Hungary, István ordered
a church to be built for every 10 villages in the land. Many followed the same construction model,
with a large single nave supported by round arches known as piers – the medieval equivalent of
Roman columns. Towers did not become commonplace until the 12th century, as superior masonry
facilitated their construction. Romanesque façades were usually simple, and it was only as architects
became more confident in the 13th century that more decorative elements such as rose and
stained-glass windows, flying buttresses and gargoyles appeared, creating a new style that would
become known as Gothic. The 13th-century church at Ják, with its exquisite porta speciosa
(a stepped portal of rounded, barrel and pointed arches) is one of the finest remaining examples
of medieval architecture in Europe, and marks the transition from Romanesque style to Gothic.

The tower is four-sided at its base
and octagonal at the top.

The portal was Mátyás Church is considered
recreated using to be a Gothic masterpiece.
fragments of However, little of what
the original.
remains today is part
of the 14th-century Gothic arches precede cross-ribbed
original, having vaults in Esztergom Cathedral.
been extensively
rebuilt in Neo-
Gothic style in
the 1880s.

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  29

Renaissance and Baroque (1450–1800)

Renaissance architecture was a successful attempt to incorporate the grandeur of Rome into

the contemporary world. Led by the Italians Brunelleschi and Bramante, the concept of art for art’s

sake became paramount, with buildings being designed around their

façades. In Hungary the movement found royal favour from King Mátyás,

who was greatly influenced by his Italian wife, Beatrice. The Hungarian

Renaissance was brought to an end by the Turks, who destroyed many

of its greatest achievements.

After they were expelled from

Hungary in 1690, the Baroque

era began, characterized by

grand designs which reflected

Sarospatak Castle’s a shift away from the proto-
15th-century humanism of the Renaissance.
Renaissance tower Most Baroque mansions were

is a copy of Palazzo built to showcase the wealth The elaborate Bishop’s Palace in Szekes-

Vecchio in Florence. of their patrons. fehérvár is representative of Baroque style.

Neo-Classical (1800–90) Secession (1890–1930)

In Hungary, the Neo-Classical movement was The Secessionist era saw an ornamental style
considered a statement of intent: that this of art (also known as Art Nouveau) flourish
was a heroic nation worthy of statehood. in Europe at the end of the 19th century. In
The National Museum (see pp102–3) and the architecture, the movement initially made use
Opera House (see pp93–3) were built with of elaborate ironwork, tiles and bright colours
independence to decorate linear buildings, while in the latter
in mind. part of the Secession period ever more daring
architects created curving, bulbous and
organic constructions.

Budapest’s National Museum, built to signify The Cifra Palota, Kecskemét, is typical of
national consciousness, is where Sándor Petőfi read Secession design, with a curved, tiled roof, ironwork
National Song and sparked the 1848 Revolution. balconies and intricate arabesque decoration.

Utilitarian (1950–90)

At the end of World War II, art was relegated to Prefabrication
a distant second behind necessity, as Hungary’s facilitated the
Communist regime set about constructing swift building
hundreds of thousands of new homes on the of many
outskirts of the country’s cities. Designed to apartment
accommodate the workers taking part in blocks.
Hungary’s massive industrialization programme,
vast estates of identical high-rise apartment Access to
blocks were rapidly built. Though generally very apartments
small and by no means luxurious, the apartments
all came with central heating, running water was often
and electricity, which was a first for many via a long
of the occupants who were allocated one.
balcony.

Built in haste and at low cost, most Communist-
era apartment blocks are still in excellent condition,

though they are somewhat bleak-looking.

30  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Famous Hungarians Tony Curtis playing escapologist Harry
Houdini in the 1953 film
For a relatively small nation, a surprisingly large number
of Hungarians have made a name for themselves
worldwide. They include inventor László Bíró, who
gave the world the ballpoint pen, and composer
Ferenc Liszt, a Hungarian so famous that it was once
quipped “he must be Austrian”. His namesake, the
late Ferenc Puskás, remains the country’s greatest
sports star, revered by football fans. In recent years,
numerous Hungarian sports stars, inventors, actors
and artists have received international acclaim.

Music and Literature sensational international career. Film and Visual Arts
She regularly headlines at the
Hollywood has been a
In music, the most prominent opera houses of London and successful stamping ground
for Hungarians since before the
Hungarian is Ferenc (Franz) New York and often performed advent of the talking picture.
Indeed, two of the great
Liszt, born in 1811. His under the baton of Budapest- pioneers of cinema were both
born and raised in Budapest.
repertoire of beautiful yet born Sir Georg Solti, one of the Adolph Zukor founded
Paramount Pictures and
technically complicated greatest operatic conductors produced the first full-length
feature film, The Prisoner of
melodies betray his first of the 20th century. Zenda (1937), and Vilmos Fried
fled Hungary for Hollywood,
love: playing the piano. Hungarian literature changed his name to William
Fox and founded Fox Studios.
While Liszt is regarded has barely made an Silver-screen heroes Johnny
Weissmuller, the first cinematic
by most Hungarians impression on the Tarzan; Béla Lugosi, the original
screen Dracula; and Leslie
as a composer world, a result of its Howard, whose most renowned
role was his portrayal of Ashley
first and foremost, often impenetrable Wilkes in Gone with the Wind
(1939) – all had Hungarian
outside Hungary he language. The 19th- roots to one degree or another.
So too did the late Hollywood
is known simply as century poets Mihály legend Tony Curtis. One of
Curtis’s best remembered
the greatest pianist Vörösmarty and films is Houdini (1953), a
biopic of another Hungarian,
of all time. After Sándor Petőfi are escapologist Harry Houdini.

spending much celebrated more Arguably the greatest
Hungarian in Hollywood,
of his life touring Soprano Éva Márton for their activity as however, was Manó Kertész
Kaminer, who, under the
France, Germany, revolutionaries than anglicized name Michael
Curtiz, directed the legendary
Austria and Britain, Liszt for their poetry. In the 20th Casablanca (1942), a film in
which Peter Lorre, master of the
retired at the age of 50 to century, while Hungarian-born sinister and another Hungarian,
played a film-stealing cameo.
Rome, where he joined the novelist Imre Kertész received Less celebrated for their work,
but notorious for their
Franciscan order and spent the Nobel prize for literature in countless marriages to leading
Hollywood men, are Zsa Zsa
the rest of his life teaching 2002, only Ferenc Molnár, whose Gábor and her late sister, Éva.

the piano. He died in 1896, work Liliom (1909) was adapted

while in Germany attending into the musical Carousel

the Bayreuth Music Festival. (1945), has achieved anything

Liszt was succeeded as resembling worldwide fame.

Hungary’s finest musician by

a man whom he inspired from

afar: Béla Bartók. Born in 1881,

Bartók was one of the founders

of ethnomusicology, the study

of the ethnography of music,

as well as being a pianist and

composer. Less celebrated

internationally is the work of

Ferenc Erkel, who wrote Bánk

Bán (1861), Hungary’s rarely

performed national opera. It

was made into a film in 2002,

and featured Éva Márton,

Hungary’s highly acclaimed

soprano. Márton achieved fame

at Budapest’s State Opera in the Ferenc Molnár (1878-1952), Hungary’s

1970s before embarking on a best-known novelist

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  31

Hungary, so far, has bagged Ferenc Puskás, the greatest Hungarian footballer of all time
four Oscars: The Fly (1980), a
short animation film by Ferenc goals against England at for her country, winning five
Rúfusz; Mephisto (1981), by
István Szabó, and András Wembley in 1953 were crucial Olympic gold medals between
Nemes-Jeles’ Son of Saul (2016)
both won Best Foreign to his side’s 6–3 win – only the 1988 and 1996.
Language Film; and Kristóf
Deák’s 2017 short film, Sing. second time England had ever László Papp was the first

Hungarian visual artists have lost on home soil. Puskás was boxer to win gold medals at
often attracted international
acclaim, from architects Miklós on a tour of Spain with Honvéd three consecutive Olympic
Ybl and Imre Steindl – respon-
sible for Budapest’s stunning football club during the 1956 Games, a feat he achieved from
Opera House (see pp92–3) and
Parliament (see pp84–5) revolution (see p49) and refused 1948 to 1956. In 1965 Papp
respectively – to the trio of
Secessionist painters Lajos to go back to Hungary. He was on the verge of competing
Gulácsy, János Vaszary and
József Rippl-Rónai, whose signed to Real Madrid, and led for the world middleweight
works inspired a generation of
Post-Impressionists worldwide. them to three European Cup title when the Communist
More latterly, contemporary
painters Margit Anna, Lajos triumphs. He became a government revoked his permit
Sváby, Tibor Palkó and Zoltán
Szabó have been making waves Spanish national and played to travel abroad, thus
on the international art scene.
a number of international ending his career.
Sport
matches for Spain. Hungary has a long
For a period in the 1950s
Hungary was the greatest Before football brought history of producing
footballing nation on earth,
although it never actually won Hungary to the world’s chess champions.
the World Cup. Defeat in the
1954 final to West Germany attention, athlete The most recent
remains a national tragedy.
The team captain was the Alfréd Hajós had is the prodigious
legendary Ferenc Puskás,
nicknamed “the Galloping been the country’s Judit Polgár, who,
Major”. Officially an amateur,
he had the rank of major in the finest sporting aged 15, became a
Hungarian army and possessed
a prolific left foot. His three ambassador. Hajós grandmaster in

won Hungary’s Chess champion 1982. Polgár is the
first ever modern Judit Polgár highest-rated female
Olympic gold medal chess player in the

for swimming at the 1908 world (a title once held by

Olympic Games in London. her sister, Zsuzsa). She beat

Several swimming pools Anatoly Karpov in a speed-

and thermal baths in Hungary chess tournament in 1992, an

are named after him. More achievement that makes her

recently, Krisztina Egerszegi the only female ever to defeat

has excelled in swimming a reigning world champion.

Hungarian Inventors

It is perhaps in science and technology that Hungarians have

most excelled, and the ballpoint pen (invented in 1938) is probably

the best known of their inventions. Known as the biro, the pen

was named after its inventor, László Bíró. A more controversial

inventor was John von Neumann, a child genius who worked

as a binary theoretician before becoming a member of the

US government’s atomic bomb programme, the Manhattan

Project. The mathematical projections von Neumann computed

with another Hungarian, Edward Teller, were crucial in the

development of the hydrogen bomb. A third project member,

John Kemény, was co-inventor of BASIC computer language.

Other Hungarian inventors include Tivadar Puskás, who built
The colourful Rubik’s Cube puzzle, the first European telephone exchange, and Ernő Rubik, who

renowned the world over in 1977 gave the world the fiendish Rubik’s Cube.

32  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

The Wines of Hungary

With warm, dry summers and highly fertile soil, Hungary has Volcanic red soil typical of the
the ideal conditions for winemaking. It has produced wine Balatonfüred-Csopak vineyards
since the 3rd century BC, although its industry was badly gives the wines made here –
neglected during the Communist regime. Large-scale especially the world-class Pinot
private investment has recently revived wine production Gris – a unique flavour with a
in some areas, most notably in Tokaj, which is famous for hint of vanilla.
its wines. Quality reds and whites, as well as sparkling wines,
are produced all over the country. In Aszú, the golden wine
of Tokaj, Hungary has one of the world’s most fêted dessert
wines; in Bull’s Blood – a full-bodied red from Eger – it has
one of the most legendary (see p223).

The wines of northwestern Hungary

are characterized by their rich and

vivid colours. The dessert wines M1

of the Sopron region are Győr
light and refreshing, and Sopron
Tatabánya M1
the relatively high Budapest

humidity of Ászár-

Neszmély is perfect

for growing M7

Chardonnay Szombathely Székesfehérvar
Veszprém
and Sauvignon M7
Danube (Duna)
Blanc grapes.

Zalaegerszeg Balaton

Nagykanizsa

Villány-Siklós is Pécs
dotted with cellars
and wine-press Kiskunság specializes in
houses, many of fine table whites made
which date back from Chardonnay and
to the end of the Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
18th century.

Tokaj Wine Region Tokaj’s landscape – ideal for Overripe grapes with noble rot,
winemaking used to make Aszú
Immigrant Italian farmers introduced
viticulture to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region
in the 12th century, after finding
outstanding conditions for growing
grapes on the slopes of Mount Tokaj.
The golden Aszú wine that made the
area famous was first produced in
the 16th century, using overripe grapes
infected with Botrytis cinerea (noble
rot). After pressing, the wine is left
to ferment slowly over several years,
producing an intensely sweet taste.

A PORTRAIT OF HUNGARY  33

Tokaji Aszú wine is defined by the Key to Wine Regions
number of puttony (units denoting the Sopron
Somló
level of sugar in the wine) added per Badacsony
barrel for fermentation. Previously, three Balatonfüred-Csopak
or four puttonyos wines were considered Pannonhalma-Sokoróalja
Aszú, but regulation amendments mean Ászár-Neszmély
that now only wines with five or more Mór
Etyek-Buda
puttonyos can be called Aszú. Mátraalja
Essencia is the rarest wine that Eger
requires six to eight years to ferment. Bükkalja
Tokaj-Hegyalja
Sweet, aromatic white wines Kiskunság
have been produced in Mátraalja Csongrád
since the 14th century. Hajós-Baja
Szekszárd
Miskolcisza) Nyíregyháza Mecsekalja
M3 Debrecen Villány-Siklós
M3
Tisa (T

M5 Szolnok The first vineyards
M5 Kecskemét were planted in
Bükkalja in the 1960s,
making it Hungary’s
newest wine region.

Szeged Grape-picking in Hungary is
considered an art, and many
0 kilometres 50
0 miles families have long, proud
50 traditions of serving vineyard

owners for generations.
Although days are long during
the harvest, pickers are among

the highest paid agricultural
workers in the country.

Hungarian Sparkling Wine Hungarian Grande Cuvée
sparkling wine
Much as Reims competes with Epernay, so the
wineries of Pécs and Etyek-Buda vie for the
title of best Hungarian Méthode Champenoise.
Sparkling wine was first made in Hungary in
1859 at the Pannonia winery in Pécs. Three of
its brands – Pannonia, Hungaria and Törley
(perhaps the best known) – offer a broad
range of excellent sparkling wines, including
extra-dry, semi-sweet and rosé. Hungary’s
sparkling wine is today widely regarded as one
of the finest non-vintages produced outside
the Champagne region in France.

Aszú ageing for several years in
barrels in cellars

34  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

HUNGARY THROUGH
THE YEAR

Hungary is subject to climate extremes, thermal baths as soon as the bitter cold
with winters usually bitterly cold and makes way for spring. Autumn is the
summers stiflingly hot. This does have its favourite season of bird-watchers, who
advantages – Christmas is often white, while flock to Hungary to observe the southward
summer evenings are long, sunny and warm. migration of the birds, while the late
Spring and autumn also have their charms: summer harvest is a popular time for
spring is welcomed by bathers, who beset festivals in many towns, especially on the
the country’s outdoor pools, beaches and Great Plain, as winter preparations are made.

Spring and craft markets make this Boys throwing water over the girls at the
the largest spring festival held Hollókő Easter Festival
Spring festivals, often musical outside Budapest.
events, take place in almost Revolution Day (15 Mar) Heritage village of Hollókő
every town and city, to The anniversary of the revolution (see pp218–19) showcases
celebrate the passing of winter. of 1848, and the beginning of Palóc traditional crafts, including
Often coinciding with Easter, the revolt against the Habsburgs, fine, delicately hand-painted
these festivals offer a chance to is commemorated with a Easter eggs and masses of
taste the many sweet treats – re-enactment of Sándor tasty gingerbread.
such as gingerbread – that Petőfi’s reading of the Twelve
Hungarians prepare in spring. Points on the steps of the May
National Museum in Budapest.
March Gizella Days (first/second
April weekend), Veszprém.
Budapest Spring Festival The May Bank Holiday sees
(end Mar–Apr), various venues, Easter is a major event in Veszprém honour Gizella of
Budapest. Hungary’s cultural devoutly Catholic Hungary, Bavaria, St István’s wife, with
year starts with this celebration and a large number of people a colourful procession led
of classical music. For more attend Easter Mass. Palm through the heart of the city’s
than two weeks, renowned Sunday services, too, are old town.
performers from the world interesting events, as people Sailing Day (first/second
of opera, music and dance take bright flowers to church to weekend), Balatonfüred. The
converge on various venues be blessed. Visitors should also opening of the sailing season
in Budapest, including the State make sure they do not miss the on Lake Balaton is marked with
Opera House (see pp92–3). brightly decorated gingerbread a colourful regatta of thousands
Pécs Spring Festival (mid- that can be found in sweet of sailing boats. Sailing Day has
Mar–Apr), Pécs. Symphonic shops and supermarkets all over been celebrated since 1935 and
and chamber concerts, Hungary in the run-up to Easter. continues to grow in size.
theatre and literary evenings, Hollókő Easter Festival (Easter Supporting events include
folklore shows, exhibitions Sun & Mon). The UNESCO World exhibitions, concerts, street
parties and firework displays.
The Budapest Spring Festival, ringing in the performance season

HUNGARY THROUGH THE YEAR  35

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart
Hungary enjoys most of
Hours its sunshine hours in July
12 and August, although
September and even
10 October can often still be
very sunny. The southwest
8 of the country sees the
most sunshine, the town
6 of Pécs being officially
Hungary’s sunniest city.
4

2

0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Summer Sopron Festival Weeks Floats parading in the Debrecen Flower
(mid-Jun–mid-Jul), Sopron. Carnival on 20 August, a national holiday
Summer is the most enjoyable Hungary’s largest town festival
season, and every town and outside Budapest showcases Sziget Festival (end Jul–early
village has its festival week. everything from gastronomy Aug), Budapest. The biggest
Lake Balaton comes alive when and architecture to classical music festival in central Europe,
the entire country seems to music and children’s theatre. the three­day event on a
decamp here, while folklore, The Early Music Days at the Danube island attracts the very
music and artistic events tempt end of June are a highlight. biggest names in pop and rock.
visitors (and residents) to stay Hortobágy Equestrian
in the capital. Days (late Jun–early Jul), August
Hortobágy National Park.
June Horsey pursuits include com­ Hungarian Grand Prix
petitions in carriage­driving Formula 1 (Aug), Budapest.
Miskolc Opera Festival (mid- and horse­herding, displays Hungary has hosted motor
Jun), National Theatre, Miskolc of horseman­ship, and a large races since the 1920s. For
(see p230). Hungary’s premier market selling equestrian goods. three days the F1 circus rolls
opera festival is held for a week into Mogyoród.
in June. Each year, one or more July Flower Carnival, Debrecen
Hungarian operas and the work (Virágkarnevál, 20 Aug),
of one great foreign composer Jazz Days (Jul), Debrecen. Debrecen. St István’s Day is
are performed at the festival. Attracting world­renowned celebrated in Debrecen by
Danube and Chain Bridge jazz musicians, this is the most decorating the entire city
Carnival (throughout Jun), important jazz event in the centre with flowers. A large
Budapest. The completion of country. Running now for more flower market takes place on
Chain Bridge is celebrated in than 30 years, it brings together Piac utca, and flower­bedecked
a number of river­based a range of jazz styles. floats parade through the city’s
activities, which climax in the Visegrád Palace Games streets. In the evening there is
powerboat races on the final (Jul). Hungary’s best castle a free pop concert that is
Sunday. There are also concerts festival, with jousting contests, usually well attended.
and street performances, many archery displays, mock battles Fireworks over the Danube
of which take place on Chain and a festival of medieval arts (20 Aug), Budapest. Pyrotechnics
Bridge itself. to be enjoyed. to celebrate St István’s Day.

Formula 1 race at the Hungarian Grand Prix, Mogyoród near Budapest

36  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart
Hungary has only
MM Inches moderate rainfall. It tends
160 7 to occur in spring and
120 6 autumn, with November
100 5 being the wettest month,
followed by January, May
80 4 and June. The country’s
60 3 Northern Mountains
40 2 receive the highest
20 1 amounts of precipitation.

00
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Autumn this one-day festival. There are The Budapest Marathon, one of the
goulash cooking competitions, largest in Europe
Harvest fruits dominate the traditional handicraft fairs and
calendar in autumn, with wine recitals of poetry dedicated to October
and food festivals taking centre the national dish. Most years
stage. Many of the towns along there is also an attempt to break Budapest Marathon (early Oct),
the Danube and Tisza hold fish the “world’s largest goulash” Budapest. Taking in the city’s
soup festivals, the largest in Baja. record, with the end product main sights, including Buda
The capital, meanwhile, attracts shared freely among all. Castle, Margaret Island and
runners and sports enthusiasts Winesong Festival (end of Sep), Chain Bridge, on its 42-km
for the Budapest Marathon. Pécs and Villány. Wine-makers in (26-mile) route, the Budapest
Pécs and on the Villány-Siklós Marathon has been run every
September wine road celebrate the harvest year since 1985. The start is in
by bringing in the best choirs in Hősök tere, and the finish in
Pécs Days (mid-Sep), Pécs. Hungary for 10 days of wine Városliget (see p110-11).
Brass band concerts and wine and song. There are concerts all Gödöllő Harp Festival (mid-
tastings are the highlights of along the wine road, with the Oct), Royal Palace, Gödöllő.
this week-long festival. biggest and best held in the Every year Baroque musicians
Wine Festivals (Sep–Oct) main square in Pécs. from all over the world
Major wine harvest festivals are converge on the perfect setting
held in all of Hungary’s wine- Budavári Borfesztivál of Gödöllő Royal Palace (see
producing regions (see pp32–3), (International Wine Festival, Sep), pp138–9) for this renowned
the largest in the Badacsony, and Royal Palace, Budapest. series of chamber concerts.
at Eger, Balatonfüred and Sopron. Hungary’s largest wine festival
Vintage wines are cele-brated at features more than 100 November
Szekszárd on 14 September. marquees, many offering a
Goulash Festival (second Sun of chance to sample the best Szombathely St Martin Week
Sep), Szolnok. Hungary’s national Hungarian wines from all of the (1st week Nov), Szombathely.
dish (see pp272–3) is the star of wine-producing regions. The town celebrates its patron
saint, St Martin of Tours, with
Music and dance at the Tihany Wine Festival a variety of musical and
theatrical events.

HUNGARY THROUGH THE YEAR  37

Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart
July and August can
°C °F boast up to 10 hours
30 90 of warm sunshine
25 80 per day, with average
20 70 summer temperatures
15 60 a comfortable 22 °C
10 50 (71.6 °F). Winters are
cold, especially on the
5 40 Great Plain, where bitter
0 30 winds tend to blow in
from the east.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Winter Christmas Gift Markets (Dec), Revellers in menacing costumes at the
Sopron and Budapest. Busójárás Carnival, Mohács
Snows can arrive as early as Throughout December, Fő tér in
November, and by Christmas Old Sopron and Vörösmarty tér Busójárás Carnival (end Feb),
the country is often covered in in Budapest are the enchanting Mohács. During the occupation
a white blanket. The big freeze settings for Christmas Gift of Mohács by the Turks, the
does not, however, stop the Markets, attracting shoppers citizens would dress in menacing
outdoor fun, and natural ice from afar as well as locals. masks and costumes in an
rinks, such as that in Városliget attempt to frighten the occupiers
park, Budapest (see p110-11), January away. Today, people still dress
are very popular. up in spooky outfits for Carnival,
Szilveszter (New Year’s Eve) which is now a far wider event,
December New Year’s Eve in Hungary is featuring performers of trad-
traditionally celebrated on the itional and modern music
Christmas Eve (24 Dec), streets. People eat early, grab a alongside the costume parade.
countrywide. In Hungary this is bottle of sparkling wine and
the main, most intimate day for head for the free concerts in Public Holidays
Christmas celebration, when most city centres. The largest is
close family members have their in Vörösmarty tér, Budapest, New Year’s Day (1 Jan).
festive dinner and exchange while there is also a massive
presents. Life in Hungary street festival in Szentendre. Anniversary of the
therefore normally comes to a Revolution of 1848 (15 Mar)
halt at noon on the 24th, but in February
many cases the whole day is Easter Monday (Mar/Apr)
taken as a holiday. Kapos Carnival Days (early Feb),
Mikulás (6 Dec). As in many Kaposvár. The whole of Kaposvár Whit Monday (May/June)
countries in central Europe, (see p189) appears to take part in
Mikulás (aka St Nicholas or this festival of Kapos culture, the May Day (1 May)
Santa Claus) visits children on highlight of which is the parade
this day. Traditional presents of costumed stilt-walkers. National Day (St István’s Day)
given on St Nicholas’ Day tend Renaissance Carnival Gyula (20 Aug)
to be of the edible and sugary (2nd weekend of Feb), Gyula. The
variety, with larger toys now grounds of Gyula Castle (see Anniversary of the 1956
reserved for Christmas. p245) play host to this medieval- Hungarian Uprising and the
style pageant yearly. proclamation of Hungary’s
Christmas Gift Market, Budapest democratic constitution in
1989 (23 Oct)

All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)

Christmas (25–26 Dec)



INTRODUCING HUNGARY  39

THE HISTORY OF
HUNGARY

Most modern histories give little space to pre-Magyar Hungary but, given
the importance of the region both then and now, this is a shame. Hungary’s
geographical location, at the heart of the European continent, has made it
pivotal in invasions and empire-building from a time long before the notion
of Europe – or Hungary – had ever been contemplated.

There is evidence that the Great Plain Urals, rolled into the region in 895 or 896.
has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. It was at this time that Hungarian history
Horsemen from the steppes eventually first became entangled in conflict. The
destroyed the existing culture in the Magyars claim to have arrived in a desolate,
13th century BC. Celts later occupied parts sparsely populated land (the Slavs having
of the land, and in AD 10 to 35, in its final moved south into the Balkans at the end
push for expansion, Rome conquered of the 8th century); meanwhile, Romanian
Transdanubia, renaming it Pannonia, historians – to support their claim on
and later adding Dacia. Transylvania – insist that the Carpathian
basin was in fact inhabited by direct
The Romans developed an urban descendants of the Romans.
infrastructure, including paved roads, city
forums, stadiums and baths, in Northern The Magyars first settled on Csepel
Transdanubia, still visible today in the Island, in the middle of the Danube
ruined remains of Aquincum, Óbuda, just south of present-day Budapest,
Szombathely and Sopron. before quickly occupying much of the
surrounding area. Tradition holds that
Barbarian tribes finally put an end to the once the entire Carpathian basin had
rule of Rome. In 271 Dacia was abandoned been occupied – and what little resistance
as too expensive and troublesome to there was had been quelled – the Magyar
defend; Pannonia was similarly left to its clan leaders chose a chieftain named
fate in 403. Gothic, Hun, Avar and Slav Árpád to lead them, and that they swore
tribes by turns filled the void; indeed, the an oath by sipping from a cup of their
Hun king Attila ran his powerful but short- mixed blood to accept Árpád’s male
lived empire from here. descendants as the Magyars’ hereditary
chieftains. Estimates suggest that Árpád
The Magyars ruled over some 400,000 people, made
up of seven Magyar, one Kabar, and other
The Magyars, a nomadic, pagan, Finno- smaller tribes.
Ugric tribe whose ancient homeland is
thought to have been an area east of the

500,000 BC Traces of hunters 5,000 BC Evidence c.10 AD Romans 895–6 Magyars migrate
living at Vértesszőlős near Tata of Stone Age invade Transdanubia, west into the Danube-
in 500,000 BC, who made and settlements in the incorporating it into Tisza Basin. Árpád is
used tools, were found in 1965. Carpathian basin. Pannonia. chosen as their chieftain.

500,000 BC 10,000 BC 5,000 BC AD 850 AD

c.10,000 BC Remains Carving of the sun c.50 BC Celtic Eravi settlements 895 Magyars
dating from the god Mithras on Gellért Hill, Buda. join Byzantine
armies to fight
Palaeolithic era indicate 800 BC Tombs with Iron Age urns the Bulgars.
settlements near at Pünkösdfürdő.
present-day Buda.

Gyula Benczúr’s The Baptism of Vajk, in the Hungarian National Gallery

40  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

István was crowned on Christmas Day 1000.
István now held absolute power. He ordered
that every tenth village build a church and
donated land to bishoprics and monasteries.
He required all persons, Christian or pagan –
but not the clergy – to marry. Foreign
monks worked as teachers and introduced
Western agricultural methods.

István’s Successors

István died in 1038 and was canonized

in 1083. Hungary continued to grow

Altarpiece with Saints István, Imre and Gellért stronger, having conquered Transylvania

in 997–1006. In 1090, László I (1077–95)
The Birth of the Hungarian Kingdom occupied Slavonia and Kálmán I

Europe in the 10th century was weak and (1095–1116) became King of Croatia in

Magyar bands roamed the land and looted 1103. Under Béla III (1173–96) Hungary

the towns for decades. They were routed dominated in southeastern Europe.

in the west in 955 by King Otto I, and in The good times came to an end with

the east in 970 by the Byzantines. Chieftain King András II (1205–35). A big spender

Géza (972–97), Árpád’s great-grandson, on foreign military adventures and

was baptized into the Christian Church, domestic luxuries, he gave huge land

and missionaries began the process of grants to friendly foreign nobles. They

converting the Magyars. Géza established soon made up a class of magnates whose

a strong central authority. wealth was far greater than that of the

István I Magyar lesser nobles. When he tried to
raise taxes, the people rebelled. In 1222

Géza’s son, István (Stephen, ruled 997–1038), he was forced to sign the Golden Bull,

was educated in Prague, baptized at some limiting his power and leading to the

point in his early life, and in 996 he married creation of Parliament.

Gisela, a Bavarian princess and sister Béla IV (1235–70), András’s son,

of Emperor Henry II. István became tried with little success to regain

chieftain when Géza died. lost crown lands in order to

He ousted rival clan chiefs, re-establish royal pre-eminence,

confiscating their lands. István but instead this created a rift

then asked Pope Sylvester II to between king and nobles just as

recognize him as king of Hungary. the Mongols were sweeping

The pope agreed, and – with a Holy Crown of Hungary, or towards Europe. He ordered his

crown sent by the pope himself – Crown of St István armies to mobilize, but few did,

King Géza I, 972–97 Chieftain 1090 László I (1077– 1103 Kálmán I (1095–
father of Géza becomes king. 95) occupies 1116) takes the title of
He is baptized as a Slavonia. King of Croatia.
King István Christian in 975.

900 950 1000 1050 1100 1150

997 István I (997–1038) succeeds his 1077–95 Latin alphabet adapted 1173– 96 Under Béla III,
father Géza; Pope Sylvester II for Hungarian. Magyars Hungary becomes a
occupy Transylvania. leading power in
recognizes him as King of Hungary. southeastern Europe.
10th-century
Magyar belt buckle

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  41

and the Mongols routed Béla’s army at Muhi one of his foreign excursions the Turks

on 11 April 1241. Béla fled to Austria. The made their first inroads into the Balkans.

Mongols utterly destroyed Hungary, killing After Louis’s death in 1382, Sigismund

half the population. After the mysterious of Luxemburg bankrupted the country,

death of their leader in 1242, however, amid the expansion of the Ottoman

the superstitious Mongols withdrew. empire. Sigismund led a crusade

Renaissance against the Turks in 1396, but was
routed at Nicopolis. He died in 1437,

On his return to power, Béla and his successors, Albrecht V of

transformed royal castles into Austria (1437–9) and Władysław III

towns, encouraging Germans, of Poland (1439–44), known in

Italians and Jews to populate them. Hungary as Ulászló I, both died

Mining restarted, farming methods during campaigns against the Turks.

improved, and crafts and commerce Hungary’s noblemen now chose the

flourished. Béla died in 1270, and the infant king László V and appointed a

Árpád line expired in 1301, when regent, János Hunyadi, to run the

András III died without a male heir. Árpád, sculpture in country. Hunyadi was a gifted
Confronted by succession Mátyás Church, warrior, defeating the Ottomans in
Budapest Transylvania in 1442 and in the
disputes, Hungary’s nobles chose

foreign kings. These, Charles I (1309–42) Battle of Belgrade in 1456, but he died of

and his son and successor Louis I (1342– the plague soon after, and after two years

82), both from the House of Anjou, ruled of struggle for the succession his son

during a time of peace. Louis I confirmed Mátyás was proclaimed king.

the Golden Bull again in 1351, and in King Mátyás
1367 founded Hungary’s first university, at

Pécs. However, he also fought costly wars, Mátyás enlisted 30,000 foreign mercenaries

becoming king of Poland in 1370. During and built fortresses along the southern

frontier, but instead of a direct anti-Turkish

policy, he launched attacks on Bohemia,

Poland and Austria, hoping to forge a

unified front against the Turks. Mátyás was

a modernizer, reforming the legal system

and promoting development. A Renais-

sance man, he made his court a centre

of humanism; under his rule Hungary

began printing and established a second

university. However, he failed in his quest

for a Western alliance and, with it, the

The Renaissance main altar in Mátyás Church, Budapest Holy Roman crown.

14th-century ciborium 1309 Charles Robert becomes 1456 Hunyadi defeats the Turks 1458
King Charles I. Marriages link in the Battle of Belgrade. Hunyadi
1222 Nobles force Hungary to Naples and Poland. Hunyadi’s son,
András II (1205–35) dies of plague. Mátyás
to sign Golden Bull (1458–90),
limiting crown’s power. 1367 Hungary’s first university crowned king.
is founded at Pécs.
1250
1200 1300 1350 1400 1450

1241 Mongols 1242 The 1351 Louis I (1342–82) 1442 Hunyadi 1490 Mátyás
rout the Mongols reconfirms Golden Bull. defeats the Turks dies while
withdraw from
Hungarian army Hungary. 1301 Death of András III, last of in Transylvania. visiting Vienna.
at Muhi. the Árpád kings.

42  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Mátyás Corvinus and the
Hungarian Renaissance

Although St Stephen (István) is Hungary’s patron saint, Mátyás Gold seals were indicative
Corvinus was much more popular in the country, and is generally of the affluence enjoyed by
far more celebrated than his canonized predecessor. Mátyás was Hungary while Mátyás was
one of the original Renaissance men: at once a king, military leader,
warrior and patron of the arts. During his 32-year reign from 1458 on the throne.
to 1490, and at his often brutal behest, Hungary evolved rapidly
from its feudal past to become the greatest kingdom in Middle
Europe. Much of this progress came from the influence of Mátyás’s
equally visionary second wife, Queen Beatrice, daughter of the
King of Naples. Her powers of persuasion over Mátyás, and
subsequently on Hungary, should not be underestimated.

This illuminated letter
from the Philostratus
Codex formed part of
the Codex Heroica, the
most valuable volume in
Mátyás’s library. It featured
tracts by the Athenian
philosopher Philostratus,
and was translated into
Latin by humanist Antonio
Bonfini in 1497. It is housed
at the Széchényi National
Library (see p60).

King Matthias and the Daughter of Barbara Krebs was Mátyás’s
the Mayor of Breslau mistress for six years.

Painted by Mihály Kovács, this famous 19th-century work Inscribed with the
depicts a carousing Mátyás (Matthias) wooing Barbara date 1470, the Crest
Krebs, the daughter of the Mayor of Breslau (present-day of Mátyás Corvinus
commemorates the
Wrocław). Mátyás wanted to marry Krebs, but as she was building of significant
not of noble blood he was not permitted to do so. Instead, additions to Mátyás
Church in Budapest
Mátyás took Krebs as his mistress. She bore him an (see pp66–7).
illegitimate child, Johannus, who, when Mátyás failed to Originally called the
produce a legitimate son, became his chosen heir, although Parish Church of
Our Lady Mary, the
Władysław II (Ulászló II) was his successor. church was renamed
after the king.
These marble engravings of Queen Beatrice
and Mátyás, held at the Hungarian National

Museum (see pp102–3), are believed to be the work
of Gian Cristoforo Romano, and were probably a
wedding gift from a rich courtier.

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  43

Manuscripts from Renaissance Hungary
Mátyás’s library are on
display at the Széchényi The full bloom of the Renaissance
Library (see p60). Mátyás set period took place in Hungary in the
up the first national library, late 15th and early 16th centuries,
Bibliotheca Corviniana, and having reached the country via a
procession of Italian master craftsmen
sanctioned the first and masons brought by Mátyás’s
printing press in the second wife, Queen Beatrice. The
country. The earliest book Turkish occupation, which changed
published in Hungary the course of Hungarian art and
(written in Latin) was the history, destroyed much evidence
of Renaissance splendour, but
Chronica Hungarorum, Sárospatak Castle (see pp232–3)
printed in Buda in 1473. is a fine example of the style.

Foot soldiers in
Mátyás’s army would
have carried shields
like this one. It bears
part of an early
coat of arms of the
Hunyadi family, and
is exhibited at the
Hungarian National
Museum (see pp102–3).

The globe, depicted alongside The fabulous architectural detail of
mathematical instruments, Mátyás Church in Budapest
books and a telescope, reinforces
the idea of Mátyás as a humanist, Győr Cathedral (see p178) was
scientist and man of the arts. destroyed by the Mongols in the
13th century, and Mátyás viewed its
Representing a reconstruction as one of his most
man and woman, sacred and important duties.

Mátyás was a generous these wine cups
king, known for his equity date from the 16th
and his admiration for the
Italian Renaissance. century and are
designed to fit
together to form

one covered
receptacle. The
cups would have

been used in
elaborate wedding
celebrations during
the Renaissance.

Carved by an unknown Siklós Castle was first constructed in
sculptor in 1526, this the late medieval period (about 1190)
Virgin and Child marks but is best known for its Renaissance-
the zenith of Hungarian era modifications. It hosts a summer
Renaissance art. Today it Renaissance Arts Festival.
forms part of the Andras
Bathory collection at
the Hungarian National
Museum (see pp102–3).

44  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Austrian Siege of Buda, 1602–3 in August 1526, annihilating the Hungarian
army and Louis II at the Battle of Mohács (see
Partition p187). Rival factions of nobles then elected
two kings, János Szapolyai (1526–40),
After Mátyás, oligarchs took control of supported by Eastern nobles and the Turks,
Hungary and crowned a puppet king, and Habsburg king Ferdinand (1526–64),
Władysław Jagiello, known in Hungary as supported by Western nobles and the Holy
Ulászló II (1490–1516), to nominally rule Roman Empire. Hungary’s
the country. In 1492 the Diet once again partition became final
limited the serfs’ freedom of movement, in 1541, when the
and in 1514 serfs attacked estates across Turks put an end to
Hungary. The rebellion was brutally crushed. Habsburg attempts at
reuniting the throne by
Shaken by the peasant revolt, the Diet of occupying Buda and Pest.
1514 passed laws that condemned the serfs
to eternal bondage. Corporal punishment The Three States
became widespread, and one noble even of Hungary
branded his serfs like livestock. The laws
were included in the Tripartitum of 1514, a Western Hungary officially
document that gave Hungary’s king and
nobles, or magnates, equal shares of power: became part of the
the nobles recognized the king as superior,
but in turn they had the power to elect and Habsburg Empire. The
remove him. The Tripartitum also freed the
nobles from taxation, and many of their Austrian king directly A 16th-century
military obligations. controlled Habsburg Ottoman coat

When Ulászló II died in 1516, his 10-year- Hungary’s financial,
old son Louis II (1516–26) became king,
though a royal council in effect ruled the military and foreign affairs, and imperial
country. Endless quarrels among the
noblemen of the Diet weakened the country, troops guarded its borders. Central Hungary
however, and the Turkish ruler Sultan
Suleyman the Magnificent attacked Hungary became a province of the Ottoman Empire.

The Turks ruling in Buda were interested

mainly in squeezing as much wealth from

the land as quickly as possible. However, the

The liberation of Buda in 1686, painting by Gyula Benczúr (1896)

1541 Hungary is partitioned 1566 Siege of Szigetvar. Ottoman tablet
between the Turks and the Ottoman Emperor Suley- with calligraphy
man the Magnificent
Habsburgs. Transylvania becomes (Suleyman I) is killed. 1600
an Ottoman vassal state.
1575
1500 1525 1550 1625

1526 Turks defeat Sword of 1591 Habsburgs 1606 Protestants in
weakened Hungary Ulászló II invade Transylvania are
granted the right
at Mohács. Transylvania. to worship.

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  45

Turks practised religious Habsburg rule

tolerance, giving Hungarians After the expulsion of the Turks,

living within the empire the Austrians colonized Hun­

significant autonomy. gary with Germans, which led

Transylvania became to an anti­Habsburg revolt in

an Ottoman vassal state. 1703–11. It was put down and

It functioned as an the leader, Transylvanian prince

independent country, ruled Ferenc Rákóczi, was forced

by local princes who paid a into exile, yet the Habsburgs

tribute to the Turks. But the guaranteed constitutional

princes’increasing auto­ Ottoman Campaign Tent, taken during the independence for Hungary
nomy angered the Turks, Siege of Vienna, 1683 and restored noble privileges.
who routed their armies in
Peace and prosperity followed,

1660 and took control of Transylvania. first under Empress Maria Theresa (1740–80)

Reunification and later her son, Joseph II (1780–90).
Enlightened absolutists, they strengthened

Hungary’s aristocracy was increasingly their empire by pursuing a more humane

dominated by Protestants and opposition social policy. Maria Theresa had Buda and

to Catholic Habsburg rule grew. Angered Pest rebuilt, and built most of the Habsburg

by the persecution of Protestants and Royal Palace (see pp58–9) and a floating yet

insufficient action against the Turks, permanent bridge across the Danube.

an outright rebellion in 1664 failed to Joseph II was even more radical. He

overthrow the Habsburgs. Instead, Emperor curbed the power of the Church, disbanding

Leopold I suppressed the Hungarian monastic orders, and introduced tax reforms

constitution, and ruled Habsburg Hungary that limited the powers of the Hungarian

from Vienna. Protestantism was viciously aristocracy. He also made German the

repressed. Hungarian discontent deepened official language, but he died young, in 1790,

still further, until 1681, when Imre Thököly, and many of his reforms died with him.

a Transylvanian nobleman, led a more

successful rebellion against the Habsburgs,

forcing Leopold to restore Hungary’s

constitution. It was during these internal

conflicts that the Turks attacked Austria, only

to be almost wiped out entirely near Vienna

in 1683. A Western campaign then gradually

drove the Turks from all of Hungary, and the

Ottoman government finally surrendered

its Hungarian possessions at the Peace of

Karlowitz in 1699. The return of the Crown to Buda (1790)

1664 Habsburgs 1683 Turks attack Habsburgs but Order created by 1780 Joseph II
rout a Turkish are routed near Vienna. Maria Theresa (1780–90)
army at St Gott­
hard in Hungary. 1686 Christian troops enter Buda. succeeds his
Turkish rule in Hungary ends. mother, Maria
Theresa; he enacts
further reform.

1650 1675 1700 1725 1750 1775

1681 Hungarians rebel 1699 Turks lose almost all 1740 Maria Theresa 1792 Coronation of
against Habsburg rule. Hungarian possessions in (1740–80) becomes Ferenc I (1792–1835),
Peace of Karlowitz, which Habsburg Empress, who repeals many of the
1684 Start of ultimately successful formally ends partition. and institutes social reforms carried out by
Siege of Buda by Habsburgs. reform.
his predecessors.

46  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

The Founding of the Academy, bas-relief by Barnabás Holló permanent bridge across the Danube,
the Chain Bridge. Lajos Kossuth, another
National Revival outstanding Hungarian of the era, called
Ferenc I (1792–1835) was far more Széchenyi the greatest Hungarian.
conservative than Joseph II. It was during
his reign, however, that the Hungarian In 1847, Kossuth formally established the
aristocracy first began to promote the Opposition Party, an umbrella organization
ideas of liberalism, and with them a that sought Hungarian independence. On
national consciousness. The donation of 15 March 1848, during a tumultuous spring
a substantial arts collection to the state – when the whole of Europe seemed to
at this time enabled the foundation of a explode in revolution – Sándor Petőfi, one
Hungarian national library and museum. of the greatest Hungarian poets, read his
Many noblemen supplemented their Twelve Points manifesto for liberal reform
income from civil occupations, and from the steps of the National Museum.
formed a genuine political movement. Vienna initially agreed to talks, but after the
Probably their greatest champion was Austrians had quelled their own revolt in
István Széchenyi, a liberal nobleman who September, they confronted the Hungarian
believed that the prime cause of Hungary’s reformers, and armed conflict lasting almost
relative backwardness was the feudal a year ensued. The fate of the reformers
system rather than subordination to was finally sealed by an alliance between
Vienna. Széchenyi was also associated Emperor Franz Joseph I and Russian Tsar
with the foundation of the Hungarian Alexander II. A 200,000-strong Russian
Academy of Sciences, the advent of rail force quickly defeated the Hungarians,
transport and the construction of the first who surrendered on 13 August 1849.

Lajos Kossuth’s speech during the revolution of 1848 Absolutism and Compromise

Hungary was now entirely subsumed by
the Habsburg Empire. The political elite,
led by diplomat Ferenc Deák, could offer
little more than passive resistance. Deák
managed to keep the dialogue with Vienna
open. By 1866, when Austria had become
isolated internationally after a series of
wars, Vienna was ready to talk about
some kind of compromise.

Deák led the Hungarian delegation, and
the Habsburg Empire agreed to transform
itself into a federation. The parts of the
federation, Austria and Hungary, would
be equal and separate, with the emperor at

1802 Count Ferenc Széchényi donation 1847 Lajos Kossuth forms the 1867 After defeat by Russia
forms the basis of the Széchényi National Opposition Party, which openly a weak Austria accepts a
Library and Hungarian National Museum. compromise, and
calls for independence.
1800 1817 The first steamboat 1846 Hungary’s first railway Hungarian independence
sails on the Danube. in the Dual Monarchy.
links Pest with Vác.
1825 1850
Poet Sándor
1808 The Embellish- 1809 The Habsburg Royal Court Petőfi (1823–49) 1848 The Hungarian Uprising against
ment Commission is moves to Buda as Napoleon the Habsburgs begins on 15 March
advances across Europe. He after poet Sándor Petőfi reads his
established, led offers independence but the Twelve Points from the steps of the
by Governor Hungarians side with Vienna. National Museum.

Archduke Joseph.

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  47

once Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria,
and King Ferenc József of Hungary. Half
a century of progress followed, crowned
when Budapest hosted the Millennium
Exhibition in 1896.

War, Regency and Holocaust Deportation of Hungarian Jews in World War II
In World War I, hundreds of thousands
of Hungarians died fighting with the Horthy committed forces to the invasion of
Germans and Austrians. After defeat in first Yugoslavia, then the Soviet Union. Many
1918, a revolution broke out in Budapest Hungarians were killed on the Eastern Front.
in October. A republic was proclaimed, When Horthy tried to negotiate a separate
headed by Count Mihály Károlyi. He was peace with the Allies, Hitler replaced him
overthrown by Bolsheviks, led by Béla with the Hungarian Nazi Arrow Cross party.
Kun, in March 1919. Kun proclaimed
the Communist Hungarian Republic of The first Hungarian Jews had been
Councils, and killed all those who opposed deported in June 1941, on the orders of
its policies. Only the intervention of prime minister László Bárdossy de Bárdos,
Romanian troops, led by Hungarian Admiral who believed that this act would keep
Miklós Horthy, ended the “Red Terror”. German troops out of Hungary. In the
summer of 1942, however, Horthy replaced
In the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, vast areas Bárdossy with the less viciously anti-Semitic
of Hungary were awarded to Romania, the Miklós Kállay. Kállay did not repeal any of
new state of Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. Bárdossy’s legislation, but he prevented
Horthy became regent. His two decades any further large-scale deportations of
in power were marked by economic and Jews. After the German invasion of March
social stagnation, as well as fierce anti- 1944, Kállay was himself sent to Dachau
Semitism. When war broke out in 1939, concentration camp in one of the last
Hitler offered Hungary half of Transylvania as deportations of Jews, Gypsies and political
reward for siding with Germany, and in 1941 criminals. SS chief Adolf Eichmann oversaw
the deportations in Hungary. By August
Signing of the Treaty of Trianon at Versailles, 1920 1944, when Horthy put a stop to them,
440,000 Jews had gone, mainly to
Auschwitz, despite the efforts of Raoul
Wallenberg and others (see p79). Indeed,
a third of all those killed at Auschwitz
throughout the war were Hungarian Jews.

1896 Continental Europe’s first 1920 Hungary signs the Treaty of 1941 Hungary joins the war on the side
underground railway opens in Trianon, and is at a stroke stripped of the Axis Powers, ostensibly to recover
Budapest. The city hosts a massive
of more than half its territory. territory lost in 1920.
exhibition to celebrate the
Hungarian Millennium. 1916 Charles IV is crowned King 1939 Hungary declares neutrality at
of Hungary. the outbreak of World War II.
1875
1900 1925

1873 Buda, Óbuda Béla Kun, 1919 Brief Bolshevik 1944 Germany invades Hungary,
and Pest merge to politician and rule under Béla Kun is Horthy is replaced by Ferenc Szálasi,
form a single city: revolutionary
Budapest. ended by Admiral the leader of the Arrow Cross, a
Miklós Horthy. Hungarian Nazi organization. The
subsequent Holocaust costs nearly half

of all Jews their lives.

48  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

the government, but the head of the

Roman Catholic Church, Cardinal József

Mindszenty, resisted. The government

arrested him in December 1948 and

sentenced him to life imprisonment.

Shortly after, the regime disbanded

most Catholic religious orders and

secularized Catholic schools.

Between 1948 and 1953 Mátyás Rákosi

led a brutal regime that reorganized the

economy. In a campaign reminiscent of

the Soviet Union’s forced collectivization

Cardinal Mindszenty accused of treason and espionage in the 1930s, the regime compelled most

Sovietization peasants to join collective farms and
required them to make deliveries to the

The parliamentary elections in 1945 were government at prices lower than the cost

won by the Independent Smallholders’ of production. Hundreds of thousands

Party, supported by a wide spectrum of were deported, arrested and executed.

Hungarian society. However, the occupying Revolution

Soviet Union enforced a coalition with

the Social Democrats, the National Peasant The terror eased slightly after Stalin’s death

Party and the Communists. New elections in 1953, when Rákosi was ousted and

in 1947 were rigged, the Communists Imre Nagy became prime minister. Nagy

claiming a massive victory. By the end of embarked on reform until the return of

1948 all other political parties had been Rákosi in 1955. Rákosi attempted to reinsti­

outlawed, or forced to merge with the tute a Red Terror. He was forced to resign

Communists in the Hungarian Workers in July 1956 and replaced by Ernő Gerő. On

Party (HWP). In 1949, after an 23 October anti­Soviet crowds

election in which only HWP protested in Budapest. Nagy

candidates were allowed, was reappointed. He dissolved

Hungary was declared a the state security police, abol­

People’s Republic. ished the one­party system

The Church became the main and promised free elections.

source of opposition to the On 1 November Hungary

HWP. The government confis­ announced neutrality and

cated church property and withdrawal from the Warsaw

nationalized church schools. Pact. On 4 November the

Protestant church leaders Mátyás Rákosi, Soviet Union invaded and
reached a compromise with Hungarian prime minister crushed the revolution.

1947 The 1953 The reform­minded Imre Nagy becomes 1955 Hungary is 1957 János
Communists win prime minister, but lasts only two years before a founding Kádár
rigged elections, and being dismissed. In November Hungary’s football
outlaw all other team is the first from mainland Europe to defeat member of the becomes
Warsaw Pact. Hungarian
political parties. England in London; the score is 6–3.
leader.
1945 1950
1955
1945 The Germans
abandon Hungary to the Imre Nagy 1956 Nagy is reinstated. When he
Russians in April 1945. (1896–1958) announces Hungary’s withdrawal from
the Warsaw Pact, Soviet forces invade and

arrest him. He is executed in 1958.