EYEWITNESS TRAVEL HUNGARY

250  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

w Jászberény

50 km (31 miles) east of Budapest.
Road Map D3. * 27,000.
£ from Szolnok, Budapest. @ from
Kecskemét. n Tourinform, Lehel
vezér tér 33, (57) 40 64 39. _ Csángó
Folklore Festival (early Aug).

Jászberény is named for the Sunset over the man-made Lake Tisza, which incorporates a nature reserve
Jász, an allegedly Iranian people
who settled in the area around e Tiszafüred the Pál Kiss Museum, based in
1200. A number of other towns a Neo-Classical villa in the city
and villages in the region bear 63 km (39 miles) west of Debrecen. centre. One of Hungary’s oldest
the Jász- prefix, yet there is Road Map E3. * 11,500. £ from regional museums, founded
nothing to set apart the Jász Debrecen. @ from Debrecen, in 1877, its displays include
today. Their Persian language Budapest. n Tourinform, Fürdő wooden panels, painted
has long been assimilated, and utca 21, (59) 51 11 23. furniture and pottery, as well
their heritage is preserved only as an excellent archaeology
in the Jász Museum, the main The largest resort of Lake Tisza exhibition, with Roman coins
sight in Jászberény. Here visitors (see pp252–3) is a bustling town and mosaics. The museum is
will find the legendary Lehel and probably the best place for named after Pál Kiss, one of
Horn (see box), as well as back- a long stay on the Tisza. Though the generals of the revolution
ground on the life of the Jász there are no luxury hotels, there of 1848–9. It also showcases
people. There is a poignant are plenty of good, well-priced leather goods made at the
exhibit commemorating Jász pensions and many good Leather Production House,
children, some as young as 14, traditional restaurants. The main on Ady Endre utca.
who fought and defeated the attraction of the town is, of
Habsburgs in the Battle of course, the lake itself, and the E Pál Kiss Museum
Tápióbicske in 1849. tourist information office can
help with arranging boating, Tariczky sétány 8. Tel (59) 35 21 06.
In August, the town plays fishing and cycle hire. The only
host to the Csángó Folklore real tourist site in the town is Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sat.
Festival, a celebration of the
traditions of the Csángós, a 8 Hungarian only. 7
Hungarian-speaking people
who fled eastern Hungary for The Lehel Horn
Moldavia during the Mongol
invasion. As many as 70,000 Legend has it that in AD 955, the Hungarians – who spent much
Csángós still live in Moldavia
(eastern Romania) today. of the period pillaging throughout central Europe – came up

E Jász Museum against fierce resistance at Augsburg in Germany. Two Hungarian
Táncsics Mihály utca 5. Tel (57) 50
26 10. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm warriors, Lehel and Bulcsú, were captured and brought before
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 the German commander, who intended to reward their bravery

Costumes of the Jász people, at the Jász by allowing them to choose the manner of their death. Lehel
Museum in Jászberény
asked the Germans to bring him his horn, to help him meditate

upon his answer. Once he had the horn in his hands he struck

the German commander with it, killing him instantly. Lehel and

Bulcsú were brutally executed soon after, but having dispatched

the enemy first meant that he would have to serve Lehel in the

afterlife. The horn – miraculously – made its way back to

Jászberény. Sadly for

romantics and lovers

of legends, the horn

on display at the Jász

Museum dates from The Lehel horn, one of Hungary’s most

the 10th or 11th century,

and is of Byzantine origin. important treasures

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

THE GREAT PLAIN  251

The Horsemen of the Great Plain

Since AD 900, when Magyar horsemen struck fear into the hearts of all who crossed their
paths as they rode through the Carpathians into Western Europe, Hungarians have been
renowned for their excellence in horsemanship. For more than 1,000 years, Hungarian
military and economic power relied in many respects on the skill of its horsemen, and on
the sturdiness of the short-necked horses they rode, since much of the country’s history
took place on horseback. While the romantic nomads of yore have long since disap-
peared, the Hungarian traditions of horsemanship are preserved in the many equestrian
centres on the Great Plain, which offers an ideal climate for riding tours and hunting.
Horsemen put on shows with great feats of horsemanship (such as the Puszta Fiver, see
p239), and the enterprise of breeding thoroughbreds has enjoyed a renaissance.

The patrac is a unique saddle without a The classic view of the Puszta: man, horse and an
girth to tie it around the horse, used only improvised well. It is not without reason that this part
on ceremonial occasions: Puszta horsemen of Hungary is considered a land only for the hardy.
ordinarily eschew saddles.

Modern Puszta shows are
strictly for the benefit of visitors,

yet these performances allow
the Puszta horsemen, known as

Csikós, to preserve and
demonstrate their prowess
in – and out – of the saddle.

The Horse Lay was a Bogrács, the traditional
necessary method of method of Puszta cooking,
involves a large beef or pork
protection, as the stew being cooked very slowly
terrain offered little in a kettle over an open fire.
cover for the advan­
The horses of the Puszta are
cing cavalry. The mainly of the Hortobágy Nonius
Puszta horsemen breed, known for their discipline.
trained their horses They are increasingly popular –
to lie down and to especially in the US, where they
“crawl” in the grass. are trained as dressage and
equestrian competition horses.

252  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

r A Tour Around Lake Tisza 8 Négyes Mező-
Peregrine falcons are just one Kövesd
Although it is today considered one of the natural of many bird species which
wonders of Hungary, Lake Tisza is, in fact, an enjoy the microclimate
artificial lake, created in the early 1970s when the generated by the lake
River Tisza was dammed for the irrigation of waters. Of the 380 species
the Great Plain. Covering 127 sq km (49 sq miles), found in Hungary, up
it is second in size only to Lake Balaton, and is to 200 can be seen
increasingly challenging its more famous neigh- at the Lake Tisza
bour as a popular summer holiday destination. Nature Reserve.
Most of the northern part of the lake is a protected
nature reserve, much loved by birdwatchers, Füzesabony,
and accessible only with a guide. Eger

Újlőrincfalva

7 Poroszló
Rowing boats are available for hire to those who
wish to explore the lake, and there is a popular
nature trail that snakes its way around this village
and the surrounding countryside.

Tiszanána Tisza
Lake

Heves Hatházpuszta Borbélytana
Bánomszlo
6 Sarud Dinnyéshát
Sarud is a superb little village, famous for its Tisza
many attractive 18th- and 19th-century
thatched cottages, and it also boasts a great
shallow beach that is perfect for children.

Tisza Szalókirét
Tiszabura Pusztataskony

Kunhegyes

5 Kisköre
This delightful family-oriented resort is home
to Lake Tisza’s best beaches, which even in
high summer rarely get crowded.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

Dózsatelep Tiszavalk THE GREAT PLAIN  253
Borsodi-
vánka Tips for Drivers

Pusztaráboly Tour length: 71 km (44 miles)
Stopping-off points:
Outside Tiszafüred the best
places to eat are the small
pensions and restaurants of
Abádszalók, while Kisköre has a
good choice of pensions offering
fine local food. Though not part
of this tour, note that the area of
the lake north of motorway 33 is
part of Hortobágy National Park
and accessible only with a guide.

Tisza

Debrecen 1 Tiszafüred
The main resort on the lake, Tiszafüred has
Puszta many grass beaches, boat launches and a
domaháza couple of good museums (see p250). It is
also a major birdwatching centre.
Kunmadaras

Tisza

3 Tiszaderzs

Tiszaszőlős A quiet town
set slightly back

from the shores

of the lake,

Tiszaderzs has

two fine churches,

both on Fő utca: a

Romanesque church,

originally from the 13th 2 Patkós Csárda
A traditional Puszta restaurant just
century but rebuilt in the outside Tiszafüred on motorway 33,
the Patkós (Horse Shoe) is a popular
1600s, and a fine 18th-century stopping-off point for motorists. The
inn serves huge portions of local dishes,
Baroque Reformed church. including a wide range of game.

0 kilometres 3
0 miles
3

4 Abádszalók Key
The large water park at Abádszalók is one of the most Tour route
popular attractions around the lake. The resort itself is Major road
an excellent base from where to try water sports. Other road
Main railway

For keys to map symbols see back flap

254  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

t Debrecen

This charming town of 203,000 people barely counts as a Interior of the Small Reformed Church,
metropolis, yet it is Hungary’s second-largest town. Famous bastion of Protestantism
for its Calvinist Reformed College (1583) and Calvinist
Church (1822), there has been a settlement here since and multimedia art from
Roman times, and Debrecen has always been an important Hungary and elsewhere in
market town. During the revolutions of 1848–49 and 1944 Europe. Performance spaces
it served as Hungary’s capital and its parliament met here. are also used for theatre, film,
Today celebrated for its grand bath complex and excellent dance, workshops, lectures
university, Debrecen is one of the most pleasant towns and other teaching events.
in Hungary. Almost all its sights are situated around a
pedestrian-only public square, while its thermal baths R Small Reformed Church
are in a lovely wooded spot just north of the centre. Református Kistemplom
Révész tér 2. Tel (52) 34 28 72.
P Piac Street and Town Hall featuring organists form part Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, or
Piac utca; Városháza of the church’s concert by appointment. 7
Piac utca. 7 schedule. Hungary’s parliament The tower of this charming
met at this quietly dignified church was originally topped
Piac utca translates as “Market church from 1848–9, and by an Orthodox-style onion
Street”, and derives from the inside the chair from which dome, but high winds blew
important cattle markets held Lajos Kossuth declared the dome off in 1907, and
here between the 16th and 18th Hungary’s independence is a replacement suffered a similar
centuries. Debrecen’s main street, preserved for posterity. From fate a few years later. The
it leads from the rather bleak the top of the towers there tower was then finished with
area around the railway station are great views of the city. crenellations and took on the
to its central square, Kossuth tér. rather truncated look it has
Apart from its magnificent church The Great Reformed Church and fountain today, earning it its nickname
(see below), one of the most eye- at Kossuth Square of “stumpy church”. A bastion
catching buildings of the square of Protestantism, it was here
is Hotel Aranybika, a Secessionist E MODEM Center of Modern in 1860 that Péter Balogh,
masterpiece designed by Alfréd and Contemporary Art Bishop of Debrecen, declared
Hajós, Hungary’s first Olympic MODEM Modern és Kortárs the Hungarian Protestant
champion, and opened in 1915. Művészeti Központ churches to be independent
The square is also used to host Baltazár Dezső tér 1–3. Tel (52) 52 50 of the Habsburg emperors.
concerts and festivals, including 10.Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun,
the Flower Carnival in August noon–8pm Thu. Closed Mon. & free R St Anna’s Cathedral
and seasonal food festivals. The for children under 7, students, disabled Szent Anna Székesegyház
Neo-Classical building on the plus one attendant. 8 7 0 = Szent Anna utca 15. Tel (52) 53 66 52.
corner of Piac utca and Kossuth ∑ modemart.hu Open 6:30am–7pm daily. 7 ^
utca is Debrecen Town Hall, built A magnificent arts centre Debrecen’s largest Catholic
in 1842–3 to a design by local built in 2006, MODEM stages church was built in 1726–46
architect Ferenc Povolny. some 10–15 exhibitions a to appease the Habsburg
year of, often, world-class emperor, who would not
R Great Reformed Church 20th-century and contem- have one of his Royal Free Towns
Református Nagytemplom porary art: paintings, sculpture,
Piac utca 4–6. Tel (52) 61 41 60. photography, video installations Detail from the exterior of St Anna’s Church
Open Mar–May, Sep & Oct: 9am–4pm
(to 1pm Sat), noon–4pm Sun; Jun–Aug:
9am–6pm Mon–Fri (to 1pm Sat), noon–
4pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–3pm Mon–
Fri, 9am–1pm Sat, noon–4pm Sun.
Closed during services. & 7

Debrecen’s defining landmark
towers above much of the city.
Originally called St Andrew’s
Church and dating from 1291,
it was destroyed by fire in 1802.
The present church was built in
1819–23, to designs by Mihály
Péchy. Its enormous organ was
added in 1838, and recitals

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

THE GREAT PLAIN  255

without a Catholic church. E Déri Museum and Square VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In 1993, Pope John Paul II Déri Múzeum
elevated the rank of the Déri tér 1. Tel (52) 32 22 07. Practical Information
church to cathedral. The key Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Road Map F3. * 203,000.
sight inside the church is 7 ∑ derimuzeum.hu n Tourinform, Piac utca 20, (52)
its altarpiece, depicting St Anna An outstanding example of its 41 22 50. ( daily. _ Spring
teaching Mary. There is also kind, the Déri Museum show­ Festival (Mar & Apr); Campus
a certified replica of the Turin cases exhibits of local cultural Festival (Jul); Flower Carnival
Shroud on display in the interest and the huge collection (Aug); Wine & Jazz Days (Aug);
building since 2011. of art and antiquities amassed Autumn Festival (Oct & Nov);
by Viennese silk manufacturer International Nativity Play Festival
P Calvinist Reformed Frigyes Déri. The Egyptian and the (Dec). ∑ debrecen.hu
College Japanese collections are especially
Református kollégium fine; other star attractions include Transport
Kálvin tér 16. Tel (52) 61 43 70. the extraordinary paintings of £ Petőfi tér, from Budapest,
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Christ by Mihály Munkácsy. The Miskolc. @ Nyugati utca, from
1pm Sat. & for museum. 7 group of four statues by Ferenc Budapest, Miskolc. ~ Debrecen.
∑ muzeum.drk.hu Medgyessy in the restful square
in front of the main building  Aquaticum Health and
The college was founded by was awarded the Grand Prize Spa Centre
Dominican monks, anxious to at the 1937 Paris Exposition. Aquaticum Gyógy- és Fürdőközpont
create a seat of learning in the Nagyerdei park 1. Tel (52) 51 41 00.
area, in 1538. Teachers were The grand main entrance to the Thermal Baths: Open 7am–9pm daily.
trained here (in Latin) before Neo-Baroque Déri Museum Pleasure Baths: Open 11am–8pm
being sent to one of 140 free Mon–Thu, 10am–9pm Fri–Sun. &
schools the college operated 7 ∑ aquaticum.hu
in the region. Rebuilt in 1675 and
in 1816, the present building Debrecen’s famous, extensive
was designed by Mihály Péchy, bath complex comprises a
who was also commissioned to thermal bath, a Mediterranean
design the Great Reformed aqua park, a sauna world, a
Church. Designated as a national wellness island, and a vast
monument in 2013, the college water­therapy treatment centre.
has a museum dedicated to The modern, indoor pleasure
the school’s history, student baths cater to families and
life, and the religious art of the young people, with water slides,
Reformed Church in the region. children’s pools and Thai massage.

Debrecen City Centre BETHLEN UTCA Aquaticum RÁKOCZI UTCA
Health PÉTERFIA UTCA
and Spa
Centre

1 Piac Street and Town Hall SZAPPANOS UTCA

2 Great Reformed Church

3 MODEM Center of Modern MESTER UTCA H U NYADI J ÁNOS U T C A CSAPÓ UTCA
and Contemporary Art MODEM Center of Modern Cultural Calvinist
Centre Reformed
4 Small Reformed Church and Contemporary Art College
5 St Anna’s Cathedral Market
6 Calvinist Reformed Déri Museum and Square BURGUNDIA U. KIGYÓ UTCA
Great Reformed
JÓKAI UTCA MÚZEUM UTCA Church

College CSOKONAI UTCA KOSSUTH LISZT F. UTCA UTCA FACREAGKLTÉDÁRUTUCTACA
7 Déri Museum and Square UTCA TÉR
8 Aquaticum Health and
HATVAN TCA Piac Street KOSSUTHKLAIPEDA U.
Spa Centre UTC
U A and Town Hall Greek
Small Orthodox
IL IONNSFZFKYY Reformed BATTHYANY U.
A J C S Y- ZS M UTCA Church UTCA Church
SI
B SZENT ANNA ATTILA
St Anna’s TÉR
SZÉCHENYI PIAC UTCA Cathedral
JÁNOS UTCA

NYUGATI UTCA ARANY UTCA SUMEN UTCA

Bus Station VA RGA UTCA

0 metres 100 M I K LÓ S VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA

0 yards 100 SZÍV UTCA

UTCA B A RN A PETŐFI UTCA
UTCA TÉR
U T
SALÉTROM E R Z S WESSELÉNYI

É B E T C A

Train Station

For keys to map symbols see back flap

256  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

The Mediterranean beach at the spa u Hortobágy & and Hungary’s best. It organizes
complex in Hajdúszoboszló Hortobágy Csikós riding performances (see
National Park box, p239), and provides riding
y Hajdúszoboszló lessons for visitors in summer.
Hortobágyi Nemzeti Park
20 km (12 miles) west of Debrecen. While much of Hortobágy
Road Map F3. * 24,000. £ from Road Map F3. @ n Tourinform, HNP National Park is open all year
Debrecen, Budapest. @ from Visitor Centre, Petőfi tér 9, Hortobágy, round, some parts have limited
Debrecen, Budapest. n Tourinform, (052) 58 93 21. Open National Park: access. The park’s administration
Szent István park 1–3, (52) 55 89 28. 8am–4pm daily; May, Jun & Sep: and visitors’centre is in the charm-
∑ hajduszoboszlo.hu 9am–5pm daily; Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm ing village of Hortobágy itself.
daily; Dec: 10am–2pm daily. & 8
The most popular spa resort 7 0 - = ∑ hnp.hu The village has three small
on the Great Plain and the hotels and the 17th-century
largest thermal bath complex This enormous national park was Hortobágy Csárda restaurant,
in Hungary, the waters here the first to be created in Hungary, which serves Hungary’s national
have been attracting visitors in 1973, and remains the largest, dish, goulash (gulyásleves), which
since the 1920s. The extensive stretching over 820 sq km originated in the Puszta. There is
Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa (317 sq miles) from Lake Tisza also a small Shepherds’ Museum
(Hajdúszoboszló Gyógyfűrdő) to Debrecen. It was added to (Pásztormúzeum) with fascinating
has been modernized, with UNESCO’s World Heritage List in facts about the life of the Puszta
giant water slides, wave pools, 1999. The vast plain, known locally shepherd. The unique Nine-
an artificial Mediterranean as the Puszta (meaning “empti- Arch Bridge (Kilenclyukú híd),
beach and children’s play areas ness”), is the nesting site of as built in 1827–33 to designs
complementing the traditional many as 152 species of bird, by Ferenc Povolny, crosses the
spa waters. The latter are brown, including great bustards, herons, River Hortobágy and once
very salty and contain iodine storks and spoonbills, while up formed part of the main road
and bromine. Sufferers of to 342 different bird species have from Budapest to Debrecen.
rheumatism swear by their been spotted here in migration,
curative effect, and they are also including tens of thousands of O Hortobágy Vadaspark
said to help cure gynaecological screeching cranes, which can Tel (30) 564 57 73. Open Apr–Oct:
disorders. Non-water-related be seen in late September. 10am–4pm Mon–Fri (book ahead);
activities include restaurants, Nov–Mar: bus departs from the
cafés and the István Bocskai Cattle, horses, buffalo, the visitor centre at 10am, noon & 2pm
Museum, which has an Hungarian racka (a long-haired Sat & Sun. &
exhibition of the town’s history, sheep), parlagi (a goat) and
including the story of how the mangalica pig continue to G Hortobágy Máta Stud Farm
waters were discovered during be herded by semi-nomadic Czinege J. utca 1, Hortobágy.
the search for oil (see p167). farmers here, as they have for Tel (52) 58 93 68. Open 9am–7pm
almost 1,000 years. daily. & 8 riding lessons, other
activities by appointment.
The Hortobágyi Vadaspark
serves as a reserve for wild E Shepherds’ Museum
animal species that populated Petőfi tér 1, Hortobágy. Tel (52) 36
the region before the encroach- 90 40. Open Mar, Apr & Oct & Nov:
ment of civilization. Visitors can 10am–4pm daily; May, Jun & Sep:
take a safari tour to get up close 9am–5pm daily, Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm
to wolves, jackals, pelicans and daily. Closed Dec–mid-Mar. &
more. Hortobágy Máta Stud
Farm riding centre located inside i Nyíregyháza
the park is an 18th-century stud
See pp258–9.

 Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa The 19th-century Nine-Arch Bridge in Hortobágy
Szent István Park 1–3. Tel (52) 55 85
58. Thermal baths: Open 7am–7pm
daily; Aqua Park: Open Jun–Aug:
10am–6pm daily (to 7pm 5 Jul–
10 Aug); open at weekends off-season
when weather permits. & 7

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

THE GREAT PLAIN  257

church, was built around 1480. s Szatmárcseke

Partially destroyed during raids 27 km (17 miles) southeast of
by Vlachs (Romanians) in 1587, Vásárosnamény. Road Map G2.
it was left to rot until 1720, when * 1,600. @ from Vásárosnamény,
it was restored in the Baroque Fehérgyarmat.
style by the Minorite Order.

The István Báthory Museum At Szatmárcseke, the Protestant

next door holds a number of cemetery is a unique sight

artifacts from around the worth visiting. Almost all the

region, including a vast section grave markers are 2-m- (6.5-ft-)

on Count István Báthory, Prince high boats, preserving, it is

of Transylvania, from 1488 to thought, the ancient Finno-

1511, and the Báthory family. Ugric custom of burying the

The other historic church of dead in boats. The tomb of

the town is the Calvinist poet Ferenc Kölcsey (1790–

church on Egyház utca, a late 1838) is on a hill in the centre

Gothic building built by István of the cemetery, surrounded

The miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary in Báthory. This church, built as by white Neo-Classical
the Greek Catholic church in Máriapócs
the Báthory Mausoleum, is columns. The poet lived
o Máriapócs
a masterpiece of medi- in the village in the early
31 km (19 miles) from Nyíregyháza.
Road Map F3. * 2,300. eval architecture. The 19th century and wrote
@ from Nyíregyháza. @ from
Nyíregyháza, Nyírbátor. _ 15 Aug nave consists of one many of his famous
(Assumption Day).
single large hall, with poems here, including
In 1696 an icon of the Virgin
Mary in the twin-domed Greek a small tower in its the words of the
Catholic church in Máriapócs
was seen weeping. The icon southwestern corner Hungarian National
was immediately taken to
Vienna (to St Stephen’s Cathe- and the two-storey Anthem, written in
dral) and replaced with a replica.
When the replica wept again in sacristy at the north- 1823. An exhibition
1715 and in 1905, the fate of
Máriapócs as a place of eastern side. Two in the Cultural Centre
pilgrimage was sealed. Today, as
many as one million Catholics István Báthorys rest commemorates the
make the trip every year, many
on or around Assumption Day here: the Lord Chief time Kölcsey spent in
(15 August), when the village is
literally besieged by the faithful. Justice of Hungary and Szatmárcseke.

E Greek Catholic church author of psalms in a Some 10 km
Kossuth tér 25. Tel (42) 38 51 42.
Open 7:30am–7pm. 7 stone tomb and, next (6 miles) south, on the

p Nyírbátor to him, under red banks of the River Túr,

36 km (22 miles) from Nyíregyháza. marble, the earlier is the tiny village of
Road Map G3. * 12,500. £ from
Nyíregyháza, Debrecen. @ from Count István Báthory. Túristvándi, known
Nyíregyháza, Debrecen.
for its 18th-century
This small town is inextricably
linked to the notoriously E István Báthory Fresco from the wooden water mill.
bloody Báthory family, who Museum Calvinist church Although it is no
owned it in the Middle Ages. Károlyi Mihály utca 21. longer used as a
Besides bloodlust and murder, Tel (42) 51 02 18. Open in Csaroda mill, visitors may
however, the Báthorys left two
magnificent churches to Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct– see the wheels and the
Nyírbátor’s citizens. One of
these, a Roman Catholic Mar: 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, weekends millstones at work.

by appointment. 8 Hungarian (in

German by prior arrangement). 7

a Csaroda Boat-shaped grave markers in the cemetery
in Szatmárcseke
15 km (9 miles) east of Vásáros-
namény. Road Map G2. * 560.
@ from Vásárosnamény, Tákos,
Fehérgyarmat.

Standing on a hill surrounded
by Csaroda Creek, the Calvinist
Church at Csaroda was built
in late Romanesque style in
the 13th century. In 1640, its
walls were whitewashed
and decorated with flowers.
Restoration of the church
revealed the original medieval
frescoes depicting Saints Peter
and Paul, among others.

258  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

i Nyíregyháza part, however, is the impressive
transept, with the figures of the
A vibrant university town, Nyíregyháza is a charming place four Evangelists in the bays of
and its trio of churches and synagogue make it a great the arches.
destination for lovers of ecclesiastical architecture. Centred
on a large, leafy and bustling pedestrianized square, the R Lutheran Church
city, with its large population of college students, is Evangélikus templom
particularly lively during term time. Only a short way Luther utca 1. Tel (42) 50 87 70.
north of Nyíregyháza is the spa resort of Sóstógyógyfürdő, Open 9am–5pm Mon-Fri. & donation.
home to one of the country’s best village museums. Key at vicarage next door if locked.

P Kossuth Square and The spectacular entrance of the Great The largest church in the city,
Town Hall Catholic Church on its highest point, is the
Városháza Lutheran Church, reflecting
R Great Catholic Church the importance of the Refor-
Kossuth tér 1. Town Hall: (42) 52 Római katolikus templom mation in this part of Hungary
Kossuth tér 4. Tel (42) 40 96 91. (see p44). Designed by the Italian
45 01. 7 Open 6am–6:30pm daily (to 6pm Giuseppe Aprilis, it was built in
Oct–Apr). 7 the Neo-Baroque style in 1784–
The heart of Nyíregyháza is a 6. The church entrance has four
very pleasant public square. It This red-brick Catholic church Neo-Classical marble columns.
was completely rejuvenated was built in 1902–4. Designed Inside, the walls are adorned
by much redevelopment at by local architect Virgil Nagy, with paintings and the main
the end of the 1990s and is its twin bell towers reflect the altar, from the Greek Catholic
now pedestrianized. There are steep wooden bell towers church in Máriapócs (see p257),
statues and play areas, terraces common on older churches in is richly carved.
and cafés, and even an old the northern part of the Great
tramcar for children to climb Plain. The plain interior of the E András Jósa Museum
aboard. It is surrounded on church is lit by the stained-glass Jósa András Múzeum
three sides by colourful windows. The most beautiful Benczúr tér 21. Tel (42) 31 57 22.
buildings, the most impressive Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun;
of which is the very yellow, Neo- Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Classical Town Hall, dating from 8 Hungarian only.
1842 and originally designed
by Károly Benkó. The low balcony Local painter Gyula Benczúr and
that is its outstanding feature writer Gyula Krúdy star at this
today was added 30 years later, fascinating museum, named
during a face-lift carried out in after András Jósa, a wealthy
1871. On the other side of the local scientist who owned the
square is the forget-me-not building. Born in Nyíregyháza in
blue, early Secessionist Corona 1844, Benczúr spent little of his
Hotel, designed by Ignác life here, although the museum
Alpár and opened in 1895. The honours him with a permanent
building does, however, look exhibition devoted to his life
far better from the outside and work (note that most of his
than from within. paintings are in The Hungarian
National Gallery in Budapest,
see pp62–3). Krúdy, famous
the world over for his novel The
Adventures of Sinbad (1918), was
a chronicler of Budapest. The
museum displays all his first
editions, newspaper articles
and other memorabilia.

Kossuth Square, and the yellow Neo-Classical town hall R Greek Catholic Church
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 & Bishop’s Palace
Görög Katolikus templom és
Egyházművészeti Gyűjtemény
Bethlen Gábor utca 5. Tel (42) 50 00 06.
Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri (get key
from Sacristy next door). & museum.

This eclectic Greek Catholic
church was designed and built
by Vojtovits and Baczó, and
completed in 1897. Combining

THE GREAT PLAIN  259

The vibrant Ark of Covenant at Nyíregyháza's synagogue VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Byzantine and Baroque, it was unfussy façade bear witness Road Map F3. * 118,000.
hit by a Soviet bomb at the to the birth of Minimalism. n Tourisztikai Információs
end of World War II, and had to The murals on the walls inside Központ, Kossuth tér 1, (42) 31 07
be extensively rebuilt. Miracu- depicting the night sky and 35. Open Open-Air Village
lously, the highly ornamented biblical scenes were painted Museum: Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm;
iconostasis featuring St Nicholas by Pál Szalay, a local artist and Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
survived intact. The nearby teacher. On an outside wall a ( daily, Búza tér. _ Vidor
Bishop’s Palace holds a long plaque commemorates Festival (late Aug–early Sep).
priceless collection of Greek the Nyíregyháza Jews killed Transport
Catholic religious artifacts. in the Holocaust. £ from Budapest, Debrecen.
@ from Debrecen.
u Synagogue Environs
Zsinagóga Opened in 1979 the Open-Air activities are organized: craft
Mártírok tere 6. Tel (42) 41 79 39. Village Museum at Sóstó- fairs, dancing and concerts.
Open by appointment only, Tue–Thu. gyógyfürdő, a spa town 7 km The Aquanus Spa and the
(4 miles) north of Nyíregyháza, Sóstó Zoo are also worth a visit.
&87 is famous for its beautiful rural
architecture. More than 50 Inside a house at the Open-Air Village
Nyíregyháza’s synagogue is buildings (houses, a school, Museum at Sóstógyógyfürdő
a beautifully simple building a shop, a pub, a fire station)
whose outside walls are devoid represent the regional styles.
of any real decoration. Built in In summer, a wide range of
1924–32 to the plans of Lipót
Baumhorn, its straight lines and

Nyíregyháza City Centre ÚJ UTCA SÓSTÓGYÓGYFÜRDŐ
VASVÁRI PÁL UTCA
1 Kossuth Square and Town Hall Market KOSSUTH
2 Great Catholic Church UTCA
3 Lutheran Church BUZA TÉR RÁKÓCZI VAY ÁDÁM KÖRÚT
4 András Jósa Museum JÓKAI
5 Greek Catholic Church and U T C A OKTÓBER 23. TÉR
TÉR DÓZSA GYÖRGY UTCA
Bishop’s Palace
6 Synagogue MARTIROK
TERE

Synagogue County HŐSÖK
Hall TERE
VÍZ UTCA SZABADSAG
SÍP UTCA EGYHÁZ UTCA TÉR

Town Zsigmond
Hall Móricz
Library

Greek Catholic Church KOSSUTH Great
and Bishop’s Palace TÉR Catholic
Church
BETHLEN GÁBOR UTCA ZRÍNYI UTCA BOCSKAI UTCA

KÁLVIN LUTHER UTCA
TÉR

SZÍNHÁZ UTCA BESSENYEI ORSZÁGZÁSZLÓ SZENT ISTVAN UTCA
TÉR TÉR

0 metres 200 M ALOM UTCA Nyírvíz ISKOLA UTCA LUTHER
0 yards 200 Bus Station TÉR

Palota UTCA KÜRT Lutheran
CHENYI SZARVAS UTCA Church
S Z É
András Jósa
700 m (770 yards) BENCZUR Museum UTC A DEBRECEN

TÉR

Train Station
1.2 km (0.7 miles)

For keys to map symbols see back flap



TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

Where to Stay 262–269

Where to Eat and Drink 270–285

Shopping in Hungary 286–287

Entertainment in Hungary 288–289

Sports and Activities 290–293
in Hungary

262  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Hungary offers accommodation to cater for all business in Hungary too. Choice is, of course,
tastes and pockets, from the smallest, family- greatest in the capital, Budapest, where there
run pension to the largest and most luxurious has also been an explosion in the number of
five-star hotels, with all the international design, or boutique, hotels, which are often
chains represented. Many hotels have their far more competitively priced than their
own spa centres, providing on-site beauty, luxury counterparts. Outside the capital there
hydrotherapy and massage treatments for is less choice, although most towns have
guests. In addition there are hundreds of one or two large, imperial-era hotels and a
campsites and youth hostels throughout number of pensions. The exception is Lake
the country with facilities for the budget- Balaton, where the popular resorts boast
conscious; private accommodation is big hotels to rival Budapest.

Hotels rooms in the two-star category Creatively decorated accommodation at
have their own bath or shower, Baltazár (see p264), in Budapest
Budapest’s stock of while rooms in one-star hotels
accommodation is now as simply have washbasins with resort tax are included in the
exciting and varied as in any hot and cold running water. price of a room, although a
other European capital, with 30 per cent surcharge is usually
luxury and design hotels Rates and Reservations levied for stays of less than
leading the way – such as the three days in some resorts
magnificent Gresham Palace – Accommodation in Hungary and in private accommodation.
closely followed by the grand generally represents decent Breakfast is usually, but not
spa hotels, like the Gellért. Also value for money. Inevitably, always, included in the price.
in the capital, and elsewhere prices are highest in Budapest,
throughout the country, you’ll closely followed by Lake Invariably, you’ll find the
find plenty of hotels occupying Balaton, though many hotels lowest prices on a hotel’s
formerly grand buildings, such offer greatly reduced rates own website, but you could
as the Brody House in Budapest for booking in advance, or for always try a central online
or the La Contessa Kastélyhotel staying at the weekend or in agency like Hotel Online
in Szilvásvárad. Most hotels have low season. Rates peak from Hungary (see Directory).
official star-ratings, but note around mid-June to Sep- Almost all the hotels and
that Hungary’s stars roughly tember, except in Budapest, pensions listed in the Where
equate to one star less in where rates are consistent – to Stay section take major
Western Europe; at the luxury that said, prices are ramped up credit cards (Visa and Master-
end, all rooms have a bathroom, significantly for the Hungarian Card), but American Express
telephone, TV, refrigerator, air- Grand Prix in July/August, and Diners Club are less
conditioning and Wi-Fi, along marginally less so for the frequently accepted.
with requisite services – 24-hour Spring Festival in March.
service, fitness facilities and the
like. Three-star hotels usually Booking a room in advance
have at least one restaurant and is highly recommended, and
one bar, and staff are expected is essential in Budapest and at
to speak at least one foreign Lake Balaton throughout the
language. Roughly two-thirds of high season. Both VAT and

Entrance to the art’otel Hotel (see p265), in Budapest Camping
The famous Széchenyi themal bath complex in Budapest
Camping is enormously popular
in Hungary, and there are
more than 200 well-equipped
campsites (kemping) all over

WHERE TO STAY  263

the country, though there’s a

particularly large cluster around

Lake Balaton; these range from

large, local authority-run sites to

smaller sites, often in someone’s

garden (especially around

Balaton in high season) – better

sites typically have a restaurant,

shop, sports facilities and a play

area. Campsites do not usually

hire out tents, though some

have small and basic bungalows

for rent. The Hungarian National

Tourist Office has full details

of the country’s campsites,

with information on what

services they provide. Note The airy, welcoming reception at the Cotton House hotel (see p264) in Budapest

that camping is only permitted

in designated areas. offer bed and breakfast (and aesthetic. Another theme is

often an evening meal) in spa hotels, entirely appropriate

Youth Hostels comfortable surrounds and at given that Hungary is blessed
low prices. In Budapest, many with so many thermal springs.

Hungary has over 100 registered are, in fact, large houses in the On the outskirts of Budapest,

youth hostels (ifjúsági szálló), suburbs, often with gardens – and prevalent throughout

though these are mostly con- a good choice for families the rest of the country, are

fined to the larger towns and travelling on a fixed budget. pensions, which provide a

cities, in particular Budapest, Another popular budget option cheaper, more restful option.

which is bursting with them. is private accommodation – The last theme is hostels, the

In most places, dormitory either a room or an apartment – biggest and best concentration

accommodation is which can be booked on the which is, inevitably, in Budapest.

complemented by Hungarian Tourist Where somewhere has an

twin- or double- Office’s website exceptional feature, or perhaps

bedded en-suite (see p297) or an outstanding view or

rooms, while most through agencies impeccable service, it has been

hostels would such as IBUSZ designated a DK Choice.

have, at the very Sign for Leo Panzio pension Private Accom­ DIRECTORY
(see p265) in Central Pest
least, a kitchen modation Central Booking
and common Service,
area. A dorm bed Airbnb and

typically costs around 3,000– Balatontourist, all of which Hotels Online Hungary
4,500 forints (€10–15) outside have extensive listings. ∑ hotelonlinehungary.com
the capital, slightly more in Otherwise, you’ll see plenty
Youth Hostels
Budapest itself. Bookings are best of signs (szoba kiadó and

made online via Hostels.com Zimmer frei) on the streets, Hostelling International
or Hostelworld.com. Most particularly around Balaton. ∑ hihostels.com
hostels offer small discounts

for members of the Hostelling Recommended Hotels Hostels.com
International (HI) association. ∑ hostels.com

In many towns, you can also The accommodation listed in Hostelworld.com
stay in college dormitories this guide is a varied selection ∑ hostelworld.com
(kollégium) during July and of the best types of places to
August, and sometimes at stay in Hungary. There are six Pensions and Private
weekends during the rest of themes in all, the first of which Accommodation

the year – check with the local is luxury: top-of-the-range Airbnb
Tourinform office for details. places that incorporate all the ∑ airbnb.hu
facilities and comfort you’d
Pensions and Private expect of a four- or five-star hotel. Balatontourist
Accommodation Historic hotels are those that Tel (88) 544 400.
occupy distinguished buildings, ∑ balatontourist.hu

Hungary’s network of pensions of which Hungary has many – a IBUSZ Private
(panzió) is large and legendary, Baroque manor or castle, perhaps Accommodation Service
and there’s at least one in every – while design hotels are typically Tel (1) 485 27 67.
town and village in the country. smaller, more intimate places
∑ ibusz.hu

These family-run establishments manifesting a cool, contemporary

264  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Budapest Gellért Hill & Tabán Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Ábel Panzió  high season for a standard double room,
Pension inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Castle District Ábel Jenő utca 9
 up to 25,000 HUF
Baltazár  Tel (1) 209 25 37  25,000 to 50,000 HUF
Design Map 1 A4  over 50,000 HUF
∑ abelpanzio.hu
Országház utca 31 Ten rooms of considerable charm,
Tel (1) 300 70 51 as well as a drawing room and
garden terrace, are on offer at Radisson Blu Béke
∑ baltazarbudapest.com this early 1900s villa. 
Decadent, arty rooms inspired by Historic Map 2 E3
the likes of Warhol and Westwood, Teréz körút 43
with clever extras: the music Danubius Hotel Gellért  Tel (1) 889 39 00
systems link into your smartphone. Spa Map 4 D3
Szent Gellért tér 1 ∑ radissonblu.com
Tel (1) 889 55 00 The elegantly restored Radisson
Hotel Castle Garden ∑ danubiushotels.com Blu Beke offers well-equipped
 This legendary spa hotel has rooms with all the latest facilities.
Design Map 1 A5 indoor and outdoor pools and an
Lovas út 41 array of treatments, though the
Tel (1) 224 74 20 rooms have seen grander days.
DK Choice
∑ castlegarden.hu
A lovely property with cosy rooms, Four Seasons
Castle Garden is well regarded Gresham Palace
for its excellent level of service. 
Luxury Map 1 C5
Around Parliament Széchenyi István tér 5-6

DK Choice Aventura Boutique Hostel  Tel (1) 268 60 00
Hostel Map 2 D3
Buda Castle ∑ fourseasons.com
Visegrádi utca 12 This splendidly refurbished,
Fashion Hotel Tel (1) 239 07 82 magnificent building is now
 one of the finest hotels in
Historic Map 1 A4 ∑ aventurahostelbudapest.com
Úri utca 39 Each of the four fantastic loft central Europe. The rooms are
Tel (1) 224 79 00 rooms at this agreeable, family-run luxurious, the staff impeccable
hostel are decorated to reflect and the whole place a real treat.
∑ budacastlehotelbudapest.com a different country or culture.
This sublime 15th-century
merchant’s house has been
converted into one of the city’s Cotton House K&K Hotel Opera
leading hotels, presenting a mix  
Design Map 2 E3 Luxury Map 2 E5
of smartly furnished, spacious Jókai utca 26 Révay utca 24
rooms and luxurious mini- Tel (30) 184 11 28 Tel (1) 269 02 22
suites; the highlight, though, Featuring some of the best and
is breakfast in the impeccably most thoughtfully decorated ∑ kkhotels.com
Behind the splendid façade the
manicured garden courtyard. rooms anywhere in the capital, rooms are modern, immaculately
Cotton House is themed around turned out and incredibly spacious.
America’s Jazz Age.
Hilton Hotel
 Home Made Hostel Central Pest
Luxury Map 1 B4
 Danubius Astoria Hotel
Hess András tér 1–3 Hostel Map 2 E4

Tel (1) 889 66 00 Teréz körút 22 Historic Map 4 E1
Tel (1) 302 21 03 Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21
∑ placeshilton.com
Boasting characterful features Tel (1) 889 60 00
and modern comforts, this hotel ∑ homemadehostel.com
Superbly conceived, this rustically
is set high above the Danube. styled hostel has bags of charm ∑ danubiushotels.com
This grand, Secessionist-style
and first-rate facilities including hotel features fine rooms and
Lánchíd 19 a fabulous kitchen. a Neo-Baroque breakfast room.

Design Map 3 C1
Lánchíd utca 19
Tel (1) 419 19 00

∑ lanchid19hotel.hu
Enjoy the superb waterside
location, with glass walkways and
individually themed rooms. Even
the staff wear designer clothes.

St George’s Residence
Hotel

Historic Map 1 A4
Fortuna utca 4
Tel (1) 393 57 00

∑ stgeorgehotel.hu
A former medieval inn is now
a stunning selection of suites
furnished in Grand Empire style. Budget accommodation with style at the Aventura Boutique Hostel

WHERE TO STAY  265

Lavender Circus  Buddha Bar Klotild Palace 
Hostel Map 4 E1 Historic Map 4 D1
Múzeum körút 37 Váci utca 34
Tel (70) 417 77 63 Tel (1) 799 73 00

∑ lavendercircus.com ∑ buddhabarhotelbudapest.com
Imaginatively conceived, this Occupying the magnificent
hostel/hotel is decorated with former palace, this place is almost
vintage furniture, artwork and overwhelming in its opulence.
goldfish tanks.
Continental Hotel
Leo Panzió Budapest
 
Pension Map 4 E1 Spa Map 2 F5
Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a Dohány utca 42
Tel (1) 266 90 41 Tel (1) 815 10 00

∑ leopanzio.hu ∑ continentalhotelbudapest.com
Stay in modest yet comfortable Art Deco-inspired hotel with
rooms in an impressive location. great amenities, not least a
Great views of the streets below. rooftop garden with pool. More than a touch of Italianate glamour
at the Boscolo Budapest
Nemzeti Corinthia Grand Hotel 
 Map 2 F5 Aquincum Hotel
Historic Map 2 F5 Luxury
József körút 4 Erzsébet körút 43 Spa 

Tel (1) 477 45 00 Tel (1) 479 40 00 Árpád fejedelem útja 94
Tel (1) 436 41 00
∑ hotel-nemzeti-budapest.hu ∑ corinthia.com
Concealed behind the powder- From the glittering lobby to the
blue façade lies a grand staircase mahogany-furnished rooms, ∑ aquincumhotel.com
Located in a prime spot along the
leading to sumptuous rooms. the Corinthia oozes class. Danube, this massive hotel has a
host of facilities, including pools,
Bohem Art Hotel Soho fitness studio and steam baths.
 
Design Map 4 D2 Design Map 2 F5
Molnár utca 35 Dohány utca 64 art’otel
Tel (1) 327 90 20 Tel (1) 872 82 92 Design 

∑ bohemarthotel.hu ∑ sohoboutiquehotel.com Viziváros, Bem rkp. 16–19
A former factory is converted A spectacular Pop Art lobby leads Tel (1) 487 94 87
into a high-class boutique hotel to funkily designed rooms with
with creatively designed rooms. Swedish hardwood floors. ∑ artotels.com/budapest
Rooms are individually decorated
using artworks and designs by
Brody House artist Donald Sultan.
 Further Afield
Design Map 4 E1
Bródy Sándor utca 10 Alfréd Panzió Mamaison Hotel Andrássy 
Tel (1) 266 12 11 Pension  Luxury
Andrássy út 111
∑ brodyhouse.com Vasút sor 20 Tel (1) 462 21 00
Fashioned into a super-cool retreat, Tel (1) 436 93 16 ∑ mamaison.com
Brody House offers idiosyncratic, This family pension is conveniently Elegance and charm abound at
artistically themed rooms. located half way between the city this tasteful hotel, which exudes
centre and the Szentendre town. a certain French chic style.
Casati Budapest Hotel 
Historic Map 2 E5 Beatrix Panzió
Paulay Ede utca 31 Pension  Mirage Medic Hotel

Tel (1) 343 11 98 Széher út 3 Design 

∑ casatibudapesthotel.com Tel (1) 275 05 50 Dózsa György út 88
An 18th-century apartment Tel (1) 400 61 58
block featuring comfortable ∑ beatrixhotel.hu
Take part in the regular grill and
rooms with stripped-back walls goulash parties held in the pretty ∑ miragehotelbudapest.com
A 19th-century villa tastefully
overlooking a pretty courtyard. garden of this inviting pension. converted into a beautiful hotel
overlooking Heroes’ Square.
Hotel Palazzo Zichy Buda Villa Panzió
 
Historic Map 4 F2 Pension
Lőrinc pap tér 2 Kiss Áron utca 6 DK Choice

Tel (1) 235 40 00 Tel (1) 275 00 91 Boscolo Budapest 
Historic Map 2 F5
∑ hotel-palazzo-zichy.hu ∑ budapansio.hu
This flamboyant, fantastically run Ten tidy rooms complement the Erzsébet körút 9–11
hotel was the one-time residence enjoyable lounge bar, but the Tel (1) 886 61 11
of the eponymous Count. best aspect is the lush garden.
∑ budapest.boscolohotels.com
Built in 1894 and restored by
Zara Boutique Dominik Panzió the Italian Boscolo group, the
  rooms here are the height of
Design Map 4 E2 Pension
Só utca 6 Cházár András utca 3 luxury, while the main hall is
Tel (1) 920 21 00 Tel (1) 460 94 28 something to marvel at. Once
a hub of literary life, the gilded
∑ boutiquehotelbudapest.com ∑ dominikpanzio.hu domes of the Coffee House
Modestly sized but impressively The private, dormitory-style
turned out rooms at this rooms here are clean and simple. make a perfect spot to unwind.
conveniently central hotel. Bathrooms are shared.

For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3

266  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

SZENTENDRE: GYŐR: Hotel Klastrom 
Mathias Rex Panzió Historic Road Map B3

Pension Road Map D3 Zechmeister utca 1
Kossuth utca 16 Tel (96) 51 69 10
Tel (26) 50 55 70
∑ klastrom.hu
In an 18th-century priory; the
∑ mathiasrexhotel.hu monks’ cells are now elegant, if
Large, fashionable rooms with
big beds and gleaming bathrooms somewhat spartan, rooms.
are on offer at this classy, modern
pension. Good restaurant too. GYŐR: Hotel Schweizerhof 
Luxury Road Map B3
VISEGRÁD: Hotel Vár Sarkantyú köz 11

Historic Road Map C3 Tel (96) 51 23 58
Fő utca 9
∑ schweizerhof.hu
Tel (26) 39 75 22 A fine hotel with a lobby on
each floor and individually styled,
∑ varhotel.hu designer-furnished rooms.
An erstwhile hunting lodge is
turned into a handsome riverfront
hotel, with nice touches such as KŐSZEG: Arany Strucc
Rooms at the Centrum Panzió, Szentendre, floor rugs and wood-framed prints. 
are decorated in natural tones Historic Road Map A3
Várkör utca 124
Tel (94) 36 03 23

Around Budapest Northern ∑ aranystrucc.hu
Transdanubia Thought to date from the 1590s,
the “Golden Ostrich” has simple
ESZTERGOM: rooms but oodles of character.
Alabárdos Panzió BÜK: Danubius Health
 Spa Resort KŐSZEG: Portré Panzió
Pension Road Map C3
 
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 49 Spa Road Map A3 Pension Road Map A3
Tel (33) 31 26 40 Európa út 1 Fő tér 7
Tel (94) 88 94 00 Tel (94) 36 31 70
∑ alabardospanzio.hu
This Mediterranean-style villa
features eclectically styled rooms ∑ danubiushotels.com ∑ portre.com
This top-end spa resort offers Stylish pension with vivid red
in two adjacent buildings. beautiful rooms and a choice of rooms, subtly furnished in wood
indoor and outdoor pools. with smart rugs.
ESZTERGOM: Bazilika Panzió 
Pension Road Map C3 BÜK: Greenfield Hotel MOSONMAGYARÓVÁR:
Batthyány utca 7 Spa and Golf Thermal Hotel
 
Tel (33) 52 06 85 Spa Road Map A3 Spa Road Map B3
Bükfürdő, Golf út 4 Kolbai utca 10
∑ bazilika.eu
Gorgeous rooms are painted in Tel (94) 80 16 00 Tel (96) 57 72 30
soothing cream and beige tones
offset with splashes of burgundy. ∑ greenfieldhotel.net ∑ thermal-movar.hu
Superb four-star hotel with This well-regarded hotel has good
Sauna and Jacuzzi too. exemplary service, and high-class sized rooms, most with garden
pampering – and, of course, golf. views, and lots of treatments.
ESZTERGOM: Ria Panzió 
Pension Road Map C3 GYŐR: Fehér Hajó Panzió  SÁRVÁR: Danubius Health
Batthyány utca 11–13 Pension Road Map B3 Spa Resort

Tel (33) 31 31 15 Kiss Ernő utca 4 Spa Road Map A3
Tel (96) 31 76 08 Rákóczi utca 1
∑ riapanzio.com
Rooms in this welcoming pension Tel (95) 88 84 00
are housed in two buildings, one ∑ feherhajerpanzio.hu
Spacious, bright rooms and a
of which is wheelchair accessible. fabulous buffet breakfast are ∑ danubius.com
Indoor and outdoor pools, sauna,
offered at this cheery pension. gym and a host of wellness
ESZTERGOM: options are offered at this resort.
Szent Anna Panzió GYŐR: Golden Ball
  SOPRON: Jégverem Fogadó 
Pension Road Map C3 Spa Road Map B3
Erzsébet Királyné útja 2 Szent István út 4 Pension Road Map A3
Tel (20) 391 44 07 Tel (96) 61 81 00 Jégverem utca 1
Tel (99) 51 01 13
∑ szentannapanzio.hu ∑ goldenball.hu
A former watermill, with cosy Vast gym and health spa offering
rooms set around a pretty, flower- great-value accommodation, ∑ jegverem.hu
This converted 18th-century inn is
filled inner courtyard. particularly the split-level rooms named after the old ice pit in the
with raised sleeping areas. middle of its warming restaurant.
SZENTENDRE: Centrum Panzió
Pension Road Map D3 GYŐR: Hotel Fonte SOPRON: Hotel Lővér 
 Spa Road Map A3
Dunakorzó Historic Road Map B3 Várisi utca 4
Tel (26) 30 25 00 Kisfaludy utca 38 Tel (99) 88 84 00
Tel (96) 51 38 10 ∑ hotellover.hu
∑ hotelcentrum.hu Peaceful and secluded, Hotel
One of the few really decent Lővér features well-appointed
options in town: a welcoming ∑ hotelfonte.hu rooms, a pool and tennis courts.
Named after a well discovered
place with peach-coloured rooms, during construction, this Baroque
some overlooking the Danube. building has comfortable rooms.

Key to Price Guide see p264

WHERE TO STAY  267

DK Choice BALATONFÜRED: rooms with gigantic beds, superb
Blaha Lujza Hotel swimming pools and an endless
SOPRON: Hotel Wollner   range of curative treatments.
Historic Road Map B4
Luxury Road Map A3 Blaha utca 4
Templom utca 20 Tel (87) 58 12 10 HÉVÍZ: Park Hotel

Tel (99) 52 44 00 ∑ hotelblaha.hu Spa Road Map B4
Former summer home of the Petőfi utca 26
∑ wollner.hu erstwhile singer, this Neo-Classical
A superb 18th-century building Tel (83) 34 11 90
in the heart of the Belvaros, villa offers smart rooms.
this hotel oozes class; rooms ∑ parkhotelheviz.hu
This elegant hotel is housed in
have handsome beds, oak BALATONFÜRED: two villas linked by a walkway,
bureaus and splashes of art- Anna Grand Hotel with comprehensive facilities
work. It also boasts a beautiful  including sauna and Jacuzzi.
Luxury Road Map B4
inner garden courtyard where Gyógy tér 1
guests can kick back with a Tel (87) 58 12 00 KESZTHELY: Barbara Panzió 
glass of wine. Pension Road Map B4
∑ annagrandhotel.hu
This is the lake’s most opulent Zámor utca 2
hotel, from the cool marble lobby Tel (83) 31 98 65
SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR: to the immaculate airy rooms.
Budai Panzió ∑ barbara-pension.hu
In an enviable location just a
 BALATONLELLE: Viktoria  stone’s throw from the lake, this
Pension Road Map C4
Budai ut 286 Pension Road Map B4 jolly place has an enticing pool
Tel (22) 78 95 69 Szent István út 13 and garden.
Tel (85) 55 50 07
∑ budaivendeghaz.eu KESZTHELY: Tokajer Panzió 
Just out of the centre, homely A few paces from the railway halt,
rooms and a welcoming ambience the polished, well-furnished rooms Pension Road Map B4
are the main draws here; the in this tidy pension are top value. Apát utca 21
breakfast is also terrific. Tel (70) 615 32 33
FONYÓD: Boros Castle
SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR:  ∑ pensiontokajer.hu
Historic Road Map B4 Charmingly old-fashioned
Hotel Szárcsa Csisztai út 10 rooms – each with a terrace
 or balcony – are spread across
Luxury Road Map C4 Tel (85) 36 04 58
Szárcsa utca 1 three adjoining buildings.
∑ boroskastely.hu
Tel (22) 32 57 00 Apartments here are surrounded
by delightful gardens, plus there’s PÉCS: Palatinus Hotel
∑ szarcsa.hu a small pool that’s ideal for families. 
Lovely rooms are decorated with Historic Road Map C5
wood-carved antiques and period Király utca 5
furnishings at this classy hotel. HÉVÍZ: Astoria Panzió és Tel (72) 88 94 00
Kávéház
SZOMBATHELY:  ∑ danubiushotels.com
Pension Road Map B4 A renovated Secession pile,
Hotel Wagner Rákóczi utca 11 Palatinus Hotel charms with its
 magnificent lobby, Art Nouveau
Luxury Road Map A3 Tel (30) 217 73 92
Kossuth Lajos utca 15 ballroom, sumptuous rooms and a
∑ astoriapanzio.hu sparkling basement spa and sauna.
Tel (94) 32 22 08 This homely pension near the
baths has a charming mix of small
∑ hotelwagner.hu and large air-conditioned rooms. SIÓFOK: Renegade-Rózsa
This small, compact hotel offers
beautifully styled rooms with Panzió
lush green carpets and oak desks. HÉVÍZ: Danubius Health 
Pension Road Map C4
Spa Resort Aqua Petőfi sétány 4
TATA: Hotel Kiss 
Spa Road Map B4 Tel (84) 31 15 06

Luxury Road Map C3 Kossuth Lajos utca 13–15 ∑ renegadehotel.hu
Bacsó Béla utca 54 Tel (83) 88 95 00 Situated midway between
Tel (34) 58 68 88 the station and the beach, this
∑ danubiushotels.com large, peaceful pension has basic
A short walk from Lake Hévíz, this
∑ hotel-kiss.hu spa resort features luxurious rooms and apartments on offer.
Magnificently appointed rooms,
as well as a stunning indoor pool
and a host of other amenities
attract guests to this hotel.

Southern
Transdanubia

BALATONALMÁDI:
Ramada Resort

Luxury Road Map B4
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 14
Tel (88) 62 06 20

∑ ramadabalaton.hu
Impeccably turned-out rooms
with big windows from which to
soak up the stunnng lake views. The grand main staircase of the Palatinus Hotel in Pécs

For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3

268  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

LILLAFÜRED:
Hunguest Palota

Historic Road Map E2
Erzsébet sétány 1
Tel (46) 33 14 11

∑ hunguesthotels.hu
This nostalgic, medieval-styled
castle – built in the 1920s –
houses fine, elegant rooms.

MISKOLC: Talizmán Panzió 
Pension Road Map E3
Vár utca 14
Tel (46) 37 86 27

∑ talizmanpanzio.hu
Impeccably kept en-suite rooms,
and a lovely, verdant little garden
are set in a building dating from
A suite decorated in a romantic theme at the Janus Atrium, Siófok the 18th century.

SIÓFOK: Azúr Hotel  pension comes with a mix of MISKOLC: Bástya Hotel 
Luxury Road Map C4 rooms, some of which retain Spa Road Map E2
Vitorlás utca 11 their original bare-brick walls. Miskolctapolcai utca 2
Tel (84) 50 14 00 Tel (46) 56 15 90
-DK Choice ∑ bastyawellnesshotel.hu
∑ hotelazur.hu This smart hotel comes with
The resort’s premier hotel has an array of wellness facilities,
faultless rooms and a superbly VESZPRÉM: Oliva Hotel  including indoor and outdoor
equipped wellness centre. Design Road Map B4 pools, Jacuzzi and Finnish sauna.
Buhim utca 14–16
SIÓFOK: Janus Atrium  Tel (88) 40 38 75
Design Road Map C4 PARÁDFÜRDŐ:
∑ oliva.hu Erzsébet Park
Fő utca 93–95 Located in the old centre, this
marvellous, Mediterranean- 
Tel (30) 500 63 15 Historic Road Map E3
accented hotel sports 11 Kossuth út 372
∑ janushotel.hu dark-wood-furnished rooms,
Room themes range from Gothic Tel (36) 54 44 00
to Gustav Klimt in this super-cool nine deluxe suites, a terrific
boutique hotel. restaurant and all sorts of ∑ erzsebetparkhotel.hu
In a building designed by Miklós
wellness facilities. The historic Ybl, Erzsébet Park offers well-
TIHANY: Veszprém castle is within equipped rooms and a full range
Hotel Holiday Tihany walking distance from the hotel. of wellness amenities.

Design Road Map B4
Batthyány utca 2–6 PARÁDSASVÁR:
Tel (70) 675 00 13 VESZPRÉM: Villa Medici  Hubertus Panzió

∑ holidayhoteltihany.hu Luxury Road Map B4 Pension Road Map D3
This delightful hotel in tranquil Kittenberger utca 11 Rákóczi út 2
surroundings offers colourful Tel (88) 59 00 70 Tel (36) 54 40 60
rooms plus a neat terrace garden.
∑ villamedici.hu ∑ hubertuspanzio.hu
The attention to detail here is Just opposite the Kastélyhotel
TIHANY: Tihany Atrium  marvellous; check out the vividly (below), this pension is, obviously,
Luxury Road Map B4 tiled Turkish baths too. much cheaper, but lovely in its
Kenderföld utca 19 own right.
Tel (87) 53 81 00
PARÁDSASVÁR: Kastélyhotel
∑ hoteltihany.com Northern Highlands Sasvár Resort
Elegance and style come very well
priced at this wonderfully located 
Luxury Road Map D3
four-star hotel on the lakeshore. EGER: Kulacs Panzió Kossuth utca 1

Pension Road Map E3 Tel (36) 44 44 44
VESZPRÉM: Gizella Hotel  Szépasszonyvölgy
∑ khs.hu
Historic Road Map B4 Tel (36) 31 13 75 An opulent Neo-Classical pile
Jókai Mór utca 48 in its own parkland with a range
∑ kulacscsarda.hu of elegantly decorated rooms
Tel (88) 57 94 90 Accommodation at this cheerful
pension comprises a handful of and suites.
∑ hotelgizella.hu pine-furnished, cosy rooms with
Request an attic room – white
walls, sloping roofs and beams – dinky balconies. SÁROSPATAK:
in this 18th-century building. Vár Vendéglő Panzió
EGER: Senator-ház 
Pension Road Map F2
VESZPRÉM: Péter Pál Panzió  
Historic Road Map E3 Arpád út 35
Pension Road Map B4 Dobó tér 11 Tel (47) 31 13 70
Dózsa György út 3 Tel (36) 411 711
∑ varvendeglo.hu
Tel (88) 32 80 91 Six serene and immaculately
∑ senatorhaz.hu turned-out rooms are offered at
From the happily cluttered lobby
∑ peterpal.hu to the character-laden rooms, this pension, some with superb
Decorated in the style of the
early 1900s, this engaging little this 18th-century inn is delightful. views across to the castle.

Key to Price Guide see p264

WHERE TO STAY  269

SÁTORALJAÚJHELY: DEBRECEN: NYÍREGYHÁZA: Hotel Pagony 
Hunor Hotel Centrum Panzió Spa Road Map F3
  Újmajori út 14–18
Luxury Road Map F2 Pension Road Map F3 Tel (42) 50 12 10
Torzsás út 25 Péterfia utca 37A ∑ hotelpagony.hu
Tel (47) 65 70 30 Tel (52) 41 61 93 A top-notch spa hotel north of
town, rooms here are gorgeously
∑ hotelhunor.hu ∑ panziocentrum.hu furnished and thoughtfully lit.
Surrounded by mountains, this Homely and family-run, the
plush place features fabulously comfy rooms here have a little
bright and tidy rooms. sink and microwave as well as
a small terrace. NYÍREGYHÁZA:
-DK Choice Svájci Lak Panzió
DEBRECEN: Grand Hotel 
Pension Road Map F3
SZILVÁSVÁRAD: La Contessa Aranybika Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
Kastélyhotel 
Historic Road Map F3 Tel (42) 41 14 44

Luxury Road Map E2 Piac utca 11–15 ∑ svajcilak.com
Park utca 6 Tel (20) 363 61 21 This lovely green and white
Tel (36) 56 40 64 “Swiss Chalet” is a charismatic
∑ hotelaranybika.com pension with attractive rooms.
Reputedly Hungary’s oldest
∑ lacontessa.hu hotel, the rooms in the older
Experience unbridled palatial
pomp in this imperious castle wing are a touch classier than SZEGED: Art Hotel
hotel, from the gleaming marble- those in the newer, modern part. 
Design Road Map E5
floored lobby to the dazzling Somogyi utca 16
white corridors that lead to DEBRECEN: Aquaticum Tel (62) 59 28 88
rooms of distinction. These are Thermal Hotel
spread across the castle and the  ∑ arthotelszeged.hu
Spa Road Map F3 Artistically conceived hotel, from
manor house, and are elegantly Nagyerdei park 1 the neon-lit lobby to the vividly
decorated with Italian furniture. Tel (52) 51 41 11 coloured rooms. First-rate spa
and restaurant too.
∑ aquaticum.hu
Sparkling, glassy rooms with
TOKAJ: Grof Degenfeld sofas and large plasma screen SZEGED: Dóm Hotel
Castle Hotel TVs are offered at this plush 
Luxury Road Map E5
 four-star hotel.
Historic Road Map F2 Bajza utca 6
Terézia kert 9 Tel (62) 42 37 50
Tel (47) 58 04 00 HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ:
Hotel Silver ∑ domhotelszeged.info
A gem of a place on a closed-off
∑ hotelgrofdegenfeld.hu  street, Dóm Hotel has businesslike
Rooms are every bit as classy as Spa Road Map F3
the winery for which this family- Mátyás Király utca 25 rooms, sauna and Jacuzzi.
run place is really renowned. Tel (52) 36 38 11

∑ hotelsilver.hu DK Choice
This spa hotel has a wide range
of rooms and apartments, but SZEGED: Hotel Tiszavirág 
The Great Plain the pools are the real draw. Design Road Map E5
Hajnóczy utca 1/b
BAJA: Kaiser Panzió KECSKEMÉT: Tel (62) 55 48 88
 Aranyhomok Hotel
Pension Road Map C5 ∑ tiszaviragszeged.hu

Tóth Kálmán utca 12 Spa Road Map D4 There are few places in Hungary
Tel (79) 52 04 50 Kossuth tér 3 like this romantic, mid-19th-
Tel (76) 50 37 30 century house, fronted by a
∑ panziokaiser.hu wonderful volute balcony;
Terrific-value pension whose
largely red-coloured rooms ∑ hotelaranyhomok.hu inside, the all-white rooms mix
This quite ugly-looking building
come with leather sofas. conceals very agreeable rooms, oakwood, glass and marble to
some of which overlook the wonderful effect. Stunning spa
attractive park. complex and restaurant.

NYÍRBÁTOR: Hotel Hódi  TISZAFÜRED: Nádas Panzió 
Historic Road Map G3
Báthory utca 11 Pension Road Map E3
Tel (42) 28 10 12 Kismuhi utca 2
Tel (59) 51 14 01
∑ hotelhodi.com
This beautiful Baroque old town
house, now converted into a ∑ nadaspanzio.hu
This delightful thatched-roof
charming hotel, was the home pension also boasts a kidney-
of the renowned Báthory family. shaped pool and a fine wine cellar.

NYÍREGYHÁZA: TISZAFÜRED:
Fürdőház Panzió Tisza Balneum
 
Spa Road Map F3 Spa Road Map E3
Sóstógyógyfürdő, Szódaház utca 18 Húszöles út 27
Tel (42) 41 11 91 Tel (59) 88 62 00
The “Bath House” has warm,
comfortable and reasonably ∑ balneum.hu
Outstanding rooms furnished
Modern designer decor and a first-rate spa priced modern rooms, plus free with local craftsmanship; the
at the Art Hotel, Szeged use of the thermal baths. hotel’s pools are unrivalled.

For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3

270  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Hungary has a long tradition of hospitality remains a relatively low-cost experience
and culinary excellence. Budapest especially because an ever-increasing number of
is full of exquisite, luxurious restaurants fit restaurants make a special effort to ensure
for the emperors of old – the city is, in fact, that visitors to any Hungarian city will be
home to some of central Europe’s most able to enjoy local delicacies. These are usually
historic restaurants. These, though, are slowly served in enormous portions at low prices,
being usurped by a new wave of smart, offering excellent value for money. Hungary’s
contemporary establishments with younger, coffeehouses, meanwhile, are legendary,
more dynamic chefs committed to creating and there’s no greater pleasure than sitting
dazzling, modern interpretations of classic and chatting over coffee and cake in one of
Magyar cooking. Eating out, however, Budapest’s great kávéház.

The outdoor terrace of the Pest-Buda paprika). Beer houses, called around 6pm, though those
söröző, serve an even wider that serve alcohol generally
Vendéglő (see p276) range of moderately priced close much later.
snacks and hot dishes.
Types of Restaurants Vegetarian Food
and Cafés Hungary has one of the
oldest coffee-drinking traditions Although vegetarian cuisine
As a general rule, Hungarian in Europe. Introduced to is hardly found in abundance
restaurants carry a name tag Hungary by the Turks during in Hungary, there are a growing
that indicates what kind of their occupation, the coffee number of places – particularly
eatery it will be. Étterem simply culture blossomed, and towards high-end restaurants – that
means restaurant, and any type the end of the Habsburg era, offer more adventurous dishes.
of cuisine may be served. A there were almost 600 kávéház Meat-free dishes can be found
csárda comes in various forms: in Budapest alone; aside on most menus: főzelék, a
most are folksy restaurants from coffee, these institutions vegetable dish that normally
offering interesting variations invariably serve pastries, accompanies steak, sausage or
on local dishes, while a fisher- cream cakes and ice cream. a hamburger, can be ordered
man’s csárda, known as a on its own or with egg, while
halászcsárda, will offer mainly Opening Hours lecsó is a tomato and pepper
fish dishes and soups. There casserole that makes a
are two types of inn: a vendéglő, Most restaurants open around substantial meal by itself. Other
which has an informal 11am and close around 10 or meat-free specialities include
ambience, and a kisvendéglő 11pm. It is unusual for them túrós csusza, a pasta dish with
(literally “small inn”), which is to close during the afternoon, cottage cheese and sour cream.
similar to a bistro. though many, especially outside There are also many sweet and
Budapest, close on Sundays savoury palacsinta (pancakes).
Besides restaurants, a great and/or Mondays. Some
place to eat a light snack in restaurants in the Balaton area A list of restaurants and shops
Hungary is in a wine bar are open only during the season can be found on the website
(borozó). Typically, such snacks from May to September. Cafés of the Hungarian branch of
consist of a slice of bread and patisseries generally open the International Vegetarian
and dripping with raw onion, at 8am, running through to Union, www.vegetarian.hu.
sprinkled with paprika, or
pogácsa (a scone with crackling, Peaceful courtyard for al fresco dinning at Kéhli Vendéglő (see p279), in Budapest
cheese, caraway seeds or

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  271

loose change is perfectly
acceptable in cafés. Credit cards
are accepted in the majority
of restaurants, though you’d
do well to check in more rural
establishments before ordering
your meal.

Recommended
Restaurants

The restaurants listed here cover

a range of cuisine styles and are

Centrál Kávéház café (see p277), one of Budapest’s historic coffeehouses the best of their kind in Hungary.

Reservations opportunity to sample local Traditional Hungarian cooking
remains the dominant theme

A prior reservation is really food and mingle with locals. throughout the country, parti-

only necessary in the best cularly in the countryside, where

restaurants, especially in Prices, Tipping the archetypal goulash and
Budapest. In Hungary, it is and Payment paprika-based dishes still form
customary to join other guests the mainstay of most restaurant

at a table, especially during Like most countries, the cost menus. That said, many newer

the busy lunchtime. To secure of a meal in Hungary varies establishments are now offering

a private table in advance, it is according to the location a fresh, modern take on age-old

advisable to reserve it. and type of establishment. recipes, and we’ve listed a

Notwithstanding the fact number of restaurants that

Children that Budapest now has some reflect the changing, and more
incredibly upmarket restaurants, innovative, trends in Magyar

Children are welcomed in the cost of eating out here is, cooking. Although a fairly loose

all restaurants almost without anyway, higher than elsewhere term, international cuisine is

exception. Most places in the country, while you may increasingly popular in many

can provide a highchair for also find prices slightly higher restaurants – especially in

toddlers, while there will around Lake Balaton. Budapest – and here you’ll find

often be a children’s (or a The prices should also be a number of outstanding places

light) portion on the menu; displayed, but if they are not, each offering a menu of diverse

if not, then the chef will go elsewhere. The introduction dishes inspired by national

prepare a suitable dish usually of printed and itemized bills has cuisines from across the globe.

at a slightly cheaper price. made it increasingly difficult Ethnic eateries are almost

The only exception might be for hidden extras to be added exclusively confined to the

dessert, but the desserts in to the final bill, as in days of capital, where there are some

Hungarian restaurants are yore, but remain wary and first-class Italian, French and

so delicious (and sweet) that always check the bill assiduously. Asian restaurants, in particular.

most children will happily eat In some restaurants, a service The specially recommended

a whole portion. charge is included in the final restaurants, marked as DK

bill, but this is not common choice, have been chosen

Menus practice; if such a charge has because they offer a unique

not been levied, it is customary experience – typically a com-

By law, all Hungarian restaurants to leave your waiter a tip of bination of superb cuisine and

must display a menu with around 10 per cent, while a truly special atmosphere.

prices, and while many will have

English translation, this is less

common outside the capital:

a staff member or fellow diner

may be able to help out. The

name of the dish is usually

followed by a brief description.

Remember that for many

Hungarians lunch is the

main meal of the day. Many

restaurants and cafés therefore

offer a two- or three- course

set menu, consisting of a soup,

a main course and often a

dessert. This can be a good The refined dinning room at Tigris (see p283), Budapest

272  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

The Flavours of Hungary

The fusion of Magyar, Turkish, Balkan and even French Hungarian peppers
influences has made Hungarian cuisine one of the most
interesting and flavourful in central Europe. Hungary is
a country where cooking know-how has always been a key
aspect of the national culture. The improvised stews of
nomadic Asiatic settlers survive as a delicacy to this day.
Although noted for its game, foie gras and rich meaty
preparations, such as goulash and the legendary Debreceni
sausages, it is also a good place to enjoy freshwater fish and
an array of delicious cakes and pastries.

veal is also becoming Poultry and Game
increasingly popular. Steak
is widely dished up with a Geese play a large part in the
rich sauce, as in Belszín culinary tradition of Hungary,
Budapest módra (Budapest which is the world’s second
tenderloin medallions). Beef biggest producer of foie gras
is also used to make the many (after France). Foie gras is almost
types of goulash, although the national dish, usually cooked
this dish, as well as gulyásleves in its own fat and served cold. It
(goulash soup) can also be is also found in pâtés and confits.
made from pork or venison. Goose skin is widely enjoyed
too, fried in its own fat and

Sausages and meats on sale at the Central Puncs Krémes Túrós-
Market Hall, Budapest Rigó torta Eszterházy torta barackos pite
Jancsi
Meat
Selection of typical Hungarian cakes and pastries
Pork is a popular meat in
Hungary, while financial
constraints mean that beef
is more of an expensive
delicacy. Pork is found in a
wide range of stews and
sausages, and is eaten as
bacon. Cuts of beef do
feature on tables and menus,
especially in Budapest, and

Local Dishes and Specialities

Despite strong foreign influences, the classic Lángos Crisp and golden, these
dishes of Hungary dominate menus in the deep-fried potato cakes make a
restaurants and cafés. Many show their roots in popular, filling snack, served with
one of Hungary’s three historical regions. Goulash soured cream, cheese or garlic oil.
and its many variants, for example, is a dish of the
Great Plain, the traditional method of cooking it in
a kettle reflecting the nomadic past of the Plain’s
inhabitants. Foie gras may have been introduced
into the country by the Austrian Habsburgs, but
has become so popular that it is key to the cuisine
of eastern Hungary, where most geese are now bred.
White asparagus The centre of the country, the area around Budapest,
has always had the sweetest tooth and nearly all
the nation’s favourite cakes and desserts originate from here.

THE FLAVOURS OF HUNGARY  273

Market stall laden with root vegetables and strings of dried peppers Paprika peppers are a culinary
staple and many types are
served with purple onion or Vegetables grown. They are either cooked
pickles. Duck is another regular as part of a dish – töltött paprika
on Hungarian menus, frequently Potatoes, tomatoes and (peppers stuffed with meat and
roasted with chestnuts or berries cabbage are usually the main rice) are served up everywhere
and served with red cabbage. vegetables. But from May – or dried and ground up to
Pheasant may also be on offer, to July, fine white asparagus be used as a spice. There are
normally in a rich soup. Venison appears on market stalls, with hundreds of different types of
is common, and usually served many restaurants serving ground paprika, which vary in
as a spicy pörkölt (goulash) or in spárgaleves, a rich creamy flavour and strength. Although
a vegetable sauce with bread. soup made from asparagus paprika is the emblematic spice
and veal stock. of Hungary, it was not always
so. During the 19th century
Fish Roasting chestnuts, a common sight on national resistance movements,
Budapest’s winter streets Hungarian cooks started the
Traditional Hungarian dishes excessive use of paprika powder
are made from freshwater to differentiate Hungarian and
fish, with carp the most widely Austrian gastronomy.
eaten, although catfish, zander
bream and trout can also be BEST LOCAL SNACKS
found on most menus. A
popular soup is halászlé, made Sausages Most buffets and
with carp or catfish and butcher’s shops offer the lightly
seasoned with a generous smoked Debreceni sausage,
dash of paprika. Another made from beef, pork, paprika
favourite is harcsapaprikás, a and garlic. It is generally eaten
goulash-style fish stew with with bread and mustard.
sour cream and served with
galuska, a type of noodle. Chestnuts In winter, Budapest
is crammed with stalls selling
freshly roasted chestnuts.

Pancakes, fritters and
doughnuts Snack bars all
over the country serve tasty
fried doughy snacks all day
long. Try alma pongyolában
(apple fritters).

Gingerbread Shops devoted
to selling gingerbread are
everywhere. At Christmas it is
often highly decorated and
given as a present.

Csirkepaprikás Chicken ragout Gulyásleves A type of goulash, Dobos Torta Fine slices of
in a creamy sauce made from this soup made of pork or beef sponge cake are layered with
paprika and sour cream. Usually with vegetables is flavoured with chocolate cream and topped
served with Hungarian noodles. onion, caraway and paprika. with glossy caramel.

274  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Hungary Light Hungarian beers

Hungary is famous for its excellent wines and, although it is chosen drink, as it goes
not a big country, it has over 20 wine regions (see pp32–3). exceptionally well with many
These regions produce all the characteristic wine styles, traditional, paprika-flavoured
from pezsgő (sparkling wine) and light whites that come Hungarian dishes, goulash
from Mátra, near Lake Balaton, to dry reds from Villány or among them. The most widely
Eger, as well as Tokaji, a distinctive sweet dessert wine from available Hungarian beer brands
Tokaj. Many wines from different vineyards are matured in are Dreher (established in
the maze of underground cellars in Budafok. They are all 1854 in the Kőbánya District
widely available in Budapest’s restaurants, wine bars and of Budapest), Arany Ászok,
wine shops. As well as being a prominent wine producer, Kőbányai, Soproni and Borsodi,
Hungary also makes beer, pálinka (a drink distilled from which are mass-produced
different orchard fruits), several types of brandy and a by local breweries. Popular
bitter herb liqueur called Unicum. international brands of beer
are also found in stores and
Pálinka Pezsgő and Hungaria by Törley pubs, while some premium
restaurants and pubs also
Kecskemét is the largest region Today, Hungary has several serve beer from small, artisan
that produces the alcoholic other vineyards producing breweries in Hungary and the
drink pálinka, which is distilled pezsgő, mainly concentrated surrounding countries.
from fruit grown in the orchards around Budapest, in the
situated on the Great Hungarian Pannónia and Balatonboglár Hungarian Wines
Plain, some 100 km (60 miles) regions. As well as Törley,
southeast of Budapest. Pálinka Hungaria is another good The choice of good wine
is a spirit native to Hungary and label to look out for. available in Hungary has
comes in a variety of flavours increased dramatically over
Hungarian Beers the past few years. This is
including barack thanks to the ever-improving
(apricot) and cseresznye Hungarians have been turning wines being matured in private
(cherry). The best of increasingly to beer as their cellars. The styles currently
them, however, is szilva favoured by the producers
(plum), which comes include dry white Chardonnay
from the Szatmár and Riesling, medium-dry
district and is much
favoured by the

Hungarians.
Pálinka is not the

only spirit indige-
nous to Hungary.
Other examples
include Törköly,
a spirit distilled
from grape, which
possesses a very
delicate flavour, and
Barack Vilmos, a brandy made
pálinka from Williams pears.

Sparkling Wines One of Budafok’s cellars, where wines are aged in barrels

Sparkling wine, called pezsgő
(the Hungarian word for
“sparkling”), enjoys a good
reputation in Hungary. The
classic method of producing
these wines was introduced
to Hungary from France by
József Törley, in 1881. It was
Törley who built the first
production plant in Budafok,
which continues to produce
excellent sparkling wines.

WHAT TO DRINK  275

Egri Bikavér,“Bull’s Blood”, A dry white wine Spritzers
a full-bodied red wine from the Badacsony
vineyards On hot days, Hungarians
enjoy drinking refreshing
spritzers. The various types are
differentiated by the proportion
of white wine to soda water:

Quantity of Quantity of
wine water

Small spritzer (Kisfröccs)
10 cl 10 cl

Large spritzer(Nagyfröccs)
20 cl 10 cl

Long step (Hosszúlépés)
10 cl 20 cl

Janitor (Házmester)
30 cl 20 cl

Ződszilváni, Hárslevelű and Tokaji Unicum
Szürkebarát, medium-sweet
Tramini and the aromatic The dessert wine Tokaji has a
Muskotály, which is produced
in Badacsony, Balatonboglár, very different style. Its bouquet Invented in 1790 to subdue
Csopak and Somló.
and flavour come from a mould indigestion, Unicum is made
Among red wines, the dry
Kékfrankos, Burgundi, Oportó, that grows only in the fork of from a blend of 40 Hungarian
Cabernet and Pinot Noir are
popular, as is the medium-dry the Bodrog and Tisza rivers and herbs. The herbs, which are
Merlot, which is produced in
Siklós, Sopron, Szekszárd, Tihany the volcanic soil in which the gathered in three separate
and Villány.
vines grow (see p232). Tokaji areas, are combined to
Another vine-growing
district is Eger, which is famous ranges from sweet to dry and produce this bitter liqueur.
for its aromatic, robust red Egri
Leányka and the dry red is full-bodied and rich. Worth Unicum can be drunk
Egri Bikavér, or “Bull’s Blood”,
which is produced from a sampling is Aszú, which is either as an apéritif before
combination of three grape
varieties. Other Hungarian made with the addition of a meal or afterwards as
wines take their names from
their place of origin or the overripe grapes harvested a digestif with coffee.
variety of grape from which
they are produced. after the first frost. The The recipe has been

proportion of these held by the Zwack

grapes added to the family, and remained

must (grape juice) a secret, since the

determines the body reign of Austrian

and sweetness. The Emperor Joseph II.

more grapes used, Originally, Unicum

the richer and sweeter Unicum herb liqueur was prescribed as a
the Aszú. remedy for the king

Although cheap varieties by the court physician, who

of Tokaji do exist, they lack the was himself a member of the

quality of the genuine article. Zwack family.

Sweet Tokaji Dry Tokaji Tokaji Aszú, a renowned golden Pear-flavoured Sisi, an apricot
Szamorodni Szamorodni dessert wine Vilmos liqueur liqueur

276  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Budapest little to detract from the excellent Price Guide
food, though it’s perhaps a bit too Prices are based on a three-course meal
Castle District touristy for some. Good Hungarian for one with half a bottle of wine and
wine list. including service:

Ruszwurm Cukrászda  Pest-Buda Bistro  up to 5,500 HUF
Café Map 1 B5  5,500 to 8,500 HUF
  over 8,500 HUF
Szentháromság utca 7 Hungarian Map 1 B4
Tel (1) 375 52 84 Fortuna utca 3
Budapest’s oldest patisserie is Tel (1) 225 03 77 Gellert Hill & Taban

perhaps its finest too, with plenty An elegant restaurant with Café Déryné 
of calorific strudel and rétes (filo arched walls and ceiling that Hungarian and French Map 1 B5
pastries filled with curd cheese), form part of an underground Krisztina tér 3
and some delicious coffees. cave system. The food, mean- Tel (1) 225 14 07
while, is interesting and Evoking the atmosphere of a
excellently prepared. grand-scale dining room, the
DK Choice classic brasserie menu here
Rivalda Café & features simple local and
21 – Magyar Vendéglő  Restaurant French favourites.
Modern Hungarian Map 1 B4 
Fortuna utca 21 International Map 1 B5
Tel (1) 202 21 13 Színház utca 5–9 Búsuló Juhász
This super-stylish restaurant Tel (1) 489 02 36 Étterem
strives to create traditional Contemporary international 
Magyar cuisine in a contempo- Hungarian Map 3 C3
rary setting. Brick walls, wooden cuisine with a changing menu that Kelenhegyi út 58
floors and subdued lighting reflects the seasons, using mostly Tel (1) 209 16 49
create the perfect atmosphere locally produced ingredients. Sited on the slopes of Gellert
in which to enjoy first rate foie Great evenings of jazz too. Hill, Búsuló is worth visiting as
gras and other classic dishes, much for the views as the food,
such as chicken paprika with Vár a Speiz Étterem which is beautifully prepared
buttered dumplings. The wine  but expensive.
list is particularly inspired. International Map 1 B4
Hess András tér 6
Tel (1) 488 74 16 Manna Étterem
This sophisticated restaurant 
International Map 1 B5
offers the likes of foie gras with Palota út 17
Café Pierrot Tokaj wines. In the adjoining Tel (20) 999 91 88
 Ham and Wine Bar, you can
International Map 1 B4 This stylish restaurant is most
Fortuna utca 14 sample a superb range of cured notable for its uinque location
Tel (1) 375 69 71 meats from all over Europe. on the top of the tunnel under
The original, elegant Socialist-era Castle Hill, with a terrace offering
interior contributes to the 1980s Alabárdos a panorama of Kristinaváros
retro feel; the food is a classy  on the Buda side.
Modern Hungarian Map 1 A4
international take on quality Országház utca 2
Hungarian produce. Tel (1) 356 08 51 Closed Sun, lunch
Mon–Fri Around Parliament

Fekete Holló Vendéglő  Alabárdos is a truly exclusive Buja Disznók Étterem 
Hungarian Map 1 A4 place in an outstanding Gothic Austrian Map 2 D4
Országház utca 10 building. The menu features Hold utca 13
Tel (1) 356 23 67 Hungarian specialities from pre- Tel (70) 377 33 22
At this little gem in Buda Castle, paprika times made to please Located in the Hold utca market
the kitsch medieval decor does today’s taste buds. hall, this charming eatery
specialises in schnitzel, the pork
delicacy that’s a firm favourite
among diners here.

Európa Kávéház 
Café Map 2 D3
Szent István Korüt 7–9
Tel (1) 312 23 62
This large and bustling café is
invariably packed to the gills with
locals filling up on coffee and
generously portioned cake slices.

Govinda Étterem 
Vegetarian Map 2 D5
Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4
Tel (1) 473 13 10 Closed Sun
Individual dishes as well as set
meals are served at this fast-food
style joint, in addition to their
The graceful architectural design in the dining room at Alabárdos all-you-can-eat menu.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  277

Gresham Kávéház 
Café Map 2 D5
Széchenyi István tér 5–6
Tel (1) 268 60 00
This is a perfect place for
enjoying a light lunch or early
evening meal. Alternatively, opt
for one of the wickedly enticing
cakes any time.

DK Choice

Café Bouchon 
Hungarian and French Map 2 E4
Zichy Jenő utca 33
Tel (1) 353 40 94 Closed Sun
Outstanding combinations of
French and Hungarian flavours
mark out this welcoming little
neighbourhood restaurant that
is popular with theatre-goers.
It is also well stocked with some Folk-inspired decor at the Italian-style Pomo D’Oro
of the country’s finest wines.
The nicely spaced out tables, Krízia Tigris
lovely Art Deco furnishings and  
Italian Map 2 E4 Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5
impeccable service round Mozsár utca 12 Mérleg utca 10
things off beautifully. Tel (1) 331 87 11 Closed Sun Tel (1) 317 37 15 Closed Sun
This pretty restaurant showcases Hungarian cuisine is rendered
some fabulous Italian cuisine; the with flair and ingenuity here,
Café Kör home-made pastas and noodles from the smoked meats
 are quite something, and there’s prepared in-house to a special
Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5
Sas utca 17 a truffle menu too. It closes for the foie gras menu.
Tel (1) 311 00 53 afternoon from 3pm to 6:30pm.
Enticing bowls of salad and
grilled meat dishes fill the Marquis de Salade Central Pest

menu at this popular, modestly International Map 2 E4 Centrál Kávéház
sized bistro-style place. Fine 
Hajós utca 43 Café Map 4 E1
wines too. Tel (30) 223 35 20 Károlyi Mihály utca 9
Dishes from Azerbaijan and Tel (1) 266 21 10
Kispiac Bisztró Georgia feature strongly in this This was one of Budapest’s
 wittily titled and beautifully foremost literary cafés in the
Modern Hungarian Map 2 D4
Hold utca 13 decorated establishment – check early 20th century. It remains a
Tel (1) 269 42 31 Closed Sun out the Persian rugs downstairs. grand affair, and the pastries are
A sweet little local with barely a truly spectacular.
handful of tables, it offers some Pomo D’Oro
sumptuous dishes, but the  Gerbeaud
Italian Map 2 D4
roasted duck beats the lot. 
Arany János utca 9 Café Map 2 D5
Tel (1) 302 64 73 Vörösmarty tér 7
A labyrinthine trattoria with large Tel (1) 429 90 00
wood-burning ovens firing up A period gem, exquisitely
thin-crust pizzas; the charcoal- furnished and decorated (see
grilled meats are worth trying too. p98), Gerbeaud has been serving
some of the best, and most
Sir Lancelot Lovagi Étterem  expensive, coffees and cakes in
International Map 2 E3 the country for over 100 years.
Podmaniczky utca 14
Tel (1) 302 44 56 Művész Kávéház
For those who relish a themed 
Café Map 2 E4
eating experience, this is ideal: Andrássy út 29
hefty portions of Renaissance- Tel (1) 343 35 44
inspired dishes served by waiters Eternally popular coffeehouse
in period costume, accompanied that, like Gerbeaud, is as notable
by Renaissance music. for its extravagant Baroque decor
as for its coffee and cakes.
Borkonyha
 Vapiano
International Map 2 D5

Sas utca 3 Italian Map 4 D1
Tel (1) 266 08 35 Closed Sun Bécsi utca 5
Expect dishes such as rabbit Tel (70) 672 20 99
millefeuille and suckling pig Collect a card, place your order
carpaccio at this elegant venue (pizza or pasta), then watch it
Authentic Italian cuisine at Krízia, a few where the wine is as important being prepared directly in front
minutes’walk from the State Opera House as the food, which is exceptional. of you. Great fun.

For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71

278  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Kárpátia Étterem  Araz 
Hungarian Map 4 E1 French Map 2 F5
Ferenciek tere 7–8 Dohány utca 42–44
Tel (1) 317 35 96 Closed lunch Tel (1) 815 11 00
Open since 1877, standards in Relish comforting French dishes,
this beautifully ornamented such as chicken breast with creamy
establishment remain impeccably kale, and Hungarian classics; the
high; the food is usually spot on. Sunday brunch is a good bet too.

Két Szerecsen  Carmel Étterem 
Spanish Map 2 E4 Jewish Map 2 E5
Nagymező utca 14 Kazinczy utca 31
Tel (1) 343 19 84 Tel (1) 342 45 85 Closed Fri eve
A varied tapas menu at this bright, This legendary kosher restaurant
buzzy place complements a is invariably crowded with locals,
strong selection of mains, such as who come here to enjoy its
salmon steamed in white wine. famed solet (cholent), a slow-
cooked stew with smoked goose.
Kőleves Vendéglő
 Costes
Hungarian Map 2 E5

Kazinczy utca 37–41 International Map 4 E2
Tel (1) 322 10 11 Ráday utca 4
Jerusalem artichoke cream soup Tel (1) 219 06 97 Closed Mon &
with roast walnuts is a typical Tue; lunch Wed–Sun
Araz, offering a repertoire of both French dish in this quaint, rather Costes is one of three Michelin-
and Hungarian dishes idiosyncratic restaurant. starred restaurants in Budapest.

If your pocket can stretch to it,
you’ll be treated to an unfor-
DK Choice DK Choice gettable array of colour, flavour

Borbíróság  Menza  and texture combinations.
Modern Hungarian Map 4 E2 Modern Hungarian Map 2 E4
Csarnok tér 5 Liszt Ferenc tér 2 Fausto’s

Tel (1) 219 09 02 Closed Sun Tel (1) 413 14 82 Italian Map 2 F5
Across from the Great Market By far the most appealing, and Dohány utca 3
Hall, this fantastic-looking popular, place on this busy Tel (30) 589 18 13 Closed Sun
restaurant has a split-level square, Menza offers sublime This gorgeously understated
interior and small terrace. The retro-inspired food amidst uber- restaurant remains the best
highlights of a limited but cool 1970s decor, and there’s a Italian option in Budapest; on
exceptional menu are the duck fabulous terrace too. The two- Wednesdays and Thursdays
carpaccio and duck steak, course lunch menu is a steal. there’s an oyster menu.
though there are many more
options, like tuna and veal with Klassz
foie gras. The choice and quality Soul Café 
International Map 2 E4
of wine is second to none. 
Hungarian and French Map 4 E2 Andrássy utca 41
Ráday utca 11–13 As much wine bar as restaurant,
Tel (1) 217 69 86 this small but striking place offers
Cyrano This lightly North African-themed an accomplished menu. They
 restaurant offers beautifully pre- don’t take bookings, therefore
International Map 4 D1
Kristóf tér 7 pared French and Moroccan food. do not list a telephone number.
Tel (1) 266 47 47
Toasted goat’s cheese with
lavender and honey is the
signature dish here, which
gives you some idea as to
the inventiveness on offer.

Fülemüle Étterem 
Jewish Map 4 F1
Kőfaragó utca 5
Tel (70) 305 30 00
This homely, old-style, family-run
restaurant serves typical Jewish
meals like solet, goose stew, and
goose soup with dumplings.

Gerlóczy Kávéház 
Modern Hungarian Map 4 E1
Gerlóczy utca 1
Tel (1) 501 40 00
Not only does this atmospheric
street corner cafe offer delicious
Hungarian fare, but it’s also a
great place for breakfast. Fillet steak with sweet roasted garlic and wild mushrooms at Menza

Key to Price Guide see p276

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  279

Gundel Étterem 
Hungarian
Állatkerti körút 4
Tel (1) 889 81 11
Budapest’s most famous
restaurant offers innovative
Hungarian and international
cuisine in posh surrounds, and
people flock here for their
Sunday brunch.

La Perle Noire 
International
Andrássy út 111
Tel (1) 462 21 89
Inventive, French-inspired
gourmet restaurant located
inside the smart Mamaison
Andrássy Hotel. It offers an
unsurpassable wine list.
Snacking at pavement tables at the Eco Cafe
Robinson
Rézkakas Bisztró Hungarian food writer Gyula Krudy International 
ate here over a century ago. The
 rustic decor evokes an old-world
Hungarian Map 2 D5 feel. Live music every evening. Városligeti Tó
Sas utca 3 Tel (1) 422 02 22
Tel (1) 267 03 49 In an unbeatable location on
The “Golden Cockerel” is a smart- the lake: the outdoor terrace is
looking establishent offering Kerék Vendéglő a wonderful spot to indulge in
classic Hungarian dishes, and Hungarian  some exotic seafood dishes.

the live music is recommended. Bécsi út 103
Tel (1) 250 42 61
Another landmark restaurant up DK Choice
Further Afield
in Obuda: the pretty garden is a Rosenstein 
Briós kávézó lovely place to dine on the likes Hungarian
 of venison stew.
Café Map 2 D2 Mosonyi utca 3
Pozsonyi út 16 Tel (1) 333 34 92
Tel (1) 794 62 62 New York Kávéház In an area near Keleti station
This family-friendly café serves  not known for fine dining,
Café Map 2 F5
super breakfasts including filled Erzsébet körút 9–11 this is a true standout; an
croissants and American pancakes. Tel (1) 886 61 67 inviting, family-run establish-
New York Kávéhaz is another of ment offering its guests a
Eco Cafe Budapest’s great literary cafes of sophisticated menu, with
 yesteryear, though these days it’s plates such as wild boar ragout
Café Map 2 F3
Andrássy út 68 even more exclusive, and pricey. with forest mushrooms, as
Cheery bio café and bakery well as some Jewish favourites.
serving up a selection of fresh The wine list is similarly of the
sandwiches, cakes and salads in DK Choice highest order.

a vaguely countrified interior. Bock Bisztró 
Modern Hungarian Map 2 F5
Rétes Büfé Erzsébet körút 43–49 Zeller Bistro
Café  Tel (1) 321 03 40 Modern Hungarian 

Normafa, Eötvös utca 50 Named after the eponymous Izabella utca 38
A hut at the top of the Buda Hills Hungarian vintner, Bock is one Tel (30) 651 08 80 Closed Sun & Mon
where you can choose from a classy establishment, from the Small but utterly charming
delectable range of pastries to elegant cork-filled glass tables restaurant offering outstanding
munch on alongside your coffee. to the beautifully crafted food; nouvelle cuisine, and you won’t
well-thought-out tapas dishes find better service anywhere
Bagolyvár Étterem complement exciting renditions in the city. It closes between
Hungarian  of rich Hungarian fare like veal 3pm and 6pm.

Gundel Károly út 4 paprika. The wine list is one of
Tel (1) 889 81 27 the finest in Budapest.
The little sister of the famous
Gundel restaurant (see right), the Around Budapest
enchanting “Owl Castle” offers Csalogány utca 26
homely Hungarian cooking at  ESZTERGOM: Csülök Csárda 
Modern Hungarian Map 1 B3
more affordable prices. Csalogány utca 26 Hungarian Road Map C3
Tel (1) 201 78 92 Closed Tue & Sat Batthyány utca 9
Kéhli Vendéglő This distinguished restaurant/ Tel (33) 412 420
Hungarian  café has a modern, bright and The cosy “Knuckle Inn” serves,

Mókus utca 22 breezy interior. Excellent poultry, unsurprisingly, a range of pork
Tel (1) 368 06 13 fish and meat dishes grilled on knuckle dishes, as well as other
Standards at this delightful inn lava stones for a real burst of traditional and hearty fare such
have not dropped since the great flavour. Closes from 3pm to 7pm. as smoked ox tongue.

For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71

280  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

VISEGRÁD: Renaissance 
Hungarian Road Map C3
Fő utca 11
Tel (26) 39 80 81
Medieval-themed, meat-heavy
restaurant hammed up for
tourists; you can even wear a
cardboard crown if you wish.

Northern
Transdanubia

BÜK: Bajor 
Bavarian Road Map A3
Gyurácz utca 6A
Tel (94) 35 83 24
A fine mix of Hungarian and
German cuisine is served in this
fabulous pension; a plate of gut-
busting home-made sausages
Fine Hungarian wines strikingly showcased at La Mareda and a cool, crisp Bavarian beer
will hit the spot.
ESZTERGOM: establishment offering good
Központi Kávéház game dishes as well as other GYŐR: Belgian Beer Café 
 traditional meats: look for goose, Road Map B3
Café Road Map C3 venison and pigeon on its Belgian
Vörösmarty utca 2 accomplished menu. Árpád utca 34
Tel (33) 52 05 70 Tel (96) 88 94 60
This Art Nouveau patisserie-cum- DK Choice Settle down at one of the
chocolatier offers an irresistible long wooden tables in this
array of coffees and cakes. SZENTENDRE: Mjam  perennially popular restaurant
International Road Map D3 and feast on moules frites
ESZTERGOM: Primás Pince  Városház tér 2 (mussels and chips) with
Hungarian Road Map C3 Tel (70) 440 37 00 Closed Mon some delicious Belgian beer.
Szent István tér 4 The Danube Bend’s standout
Tel (33) 54 19 65 Closed Sun eve restaurant offers an innovative GYŐR: Komédiás
Live music and classic Hungarian fusion menu of Asian, South 
American and Caribbean Modern Hungarian Road Map B3
cuisine in the castle cellars: no cuisine, resulting in mouth- Czuczor Gergely utca 30
wonder visitors love this place. watering delicacies such as Tel (96) 52 72 17
Curaçao burger, fish sausage An understatedly cool cellar
GÖDÖLLŐ: Galeria and tempura; all dishes are restaurant, Komédiás serves an
 matched to one of the excellent appealing menu of game, grilled
International Road Map D3 wines which have been
Szabadság tér 8 carefully sourced from both meats and stews, plus better-
Tel (28) 41 86 91 Hungary and abroad. A coffee than-average vegetarian options.
A slight lack of elegance is and croissant breakfast is
compensated for by terrific value another enticing possibility. GYŐR: La Maréda
for money and bags of charm in 
Modern Hungarian Road Map B3
this unfussy pension restaurant. Apáca utca 4
Tel (96) 51 09 82
RÁCKEVE: Leányvár Fogadó  This great-looking restaurant
Hungarian Road Map C4 dating from the early 17th century
51-es főút VÁC: Remete Pince decorated with stucco reliefs; the
 food doesn’t disappoint either.
Tel (24) 53 54 78 Hungarian Road Map D3
Authentic Hungarian ambience Fürdő lépcső utca 3
and traditional food add to the Tel (27) 30 21 99 GYŐR: Fonte
charm of this roadside inn. Intimate brick-vaulted cellar 
Modern Hungarian Road Map B3
with candle-topped tables and Kisfaludy utca 38
SZENTENDRE: Palapa wrought-iron chairs makes Tel (96) 51 38 29 Closed Sat & Sun
 Remete Pince a lovely, relaxing As classy as the hotel in which
Mexican Road Map D3
Dumsta Jenő utca 14a spot to spend a long evening. it is housed, Fonte offers some
Tel (26) 30 24 18 Guests can also dine alfresco in enticing pork- and goose-based
Vibrant, colourful restaurant/bar the garden. dishes, as well as a marvellous
with pile-it-high Tex-Mex grub, wine list.
fancy cocktails and live music. VISEGRÁD: Don Vito
 GYŐR: Schweizerhof 
Pizzeria Road Map C3 Modern Hungarian Road Map B3
SZENTENDRE: Fő utca 83 Sarkantyú köz 11–13
Aranysárkány Tel (20) 373 69 41 Tel (96) 51 23 58
 The Godfather would surely have Along with Fonte, this is the pick
Modern Hungarian Road Map D3 of Győr’s restaurants; restrained
Alkotmány utca 1a approved of this enjoyable joint, but refined decor, and wonder-
Tel (26) 30 14 79 whose stone-baked pizzas are fully accomplished food.
The long-established “Golden superb. It’s a decent spot for a
Dragon” is a smart, upscale refreshing pint, too.

Key to Price Guide see p276

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  281

DK Choice here to nose around the castle,
the wooden-beamed Castle Inn
SOPRON: Erhardt  offers an extensive menu at
Hungarian Road Map A3 attractive prices.
Balfi utca 10
Tel (99) 50 67 11 SZÉKESFERHÉRVAR:
A beautiful Baroque interior sets Kiskulacs Vendéglő 
the scene for food and wine of Hungarian Road Map C4
distinction, and Erhardt certainly Budai út 26
rates as one of the finest restau- Tel (22) 50 29 20
rants in northern Hungary. The If steak is your thing, look no
food combinations – typically further than this local favourite,
with a French or Italian influence which is a great place to enjoy a
– are wonderful, like rabbit leg long, lingering Hungarian meal.
wrapped in prosciutto with pea Taste wines from ten different
risotto, and mangalica pork regions of Hungary.
with garlicky French beans.
Serious wine lovers should SZOMBATHELY: Öreg Sam
make a beeline for the cellar. Sörkert

Hungarian Road Map A3
Gagarin utca 14
SOPRON: Vadászkürt Tel (22) 400 50 00 Closed Sun
Vendéglő Large, frequently rammed
The Renaissance restaurant in Visegrád,  beerhall, where the food and
ready for round-table revelries International Road Map A3
Udvarnoki utca 6 drink has a strong German slant;
Tel (99) 31 43 85 the pretty garden terrace is great
KŐSZEG: Portré Panzió From the polished parquet floors for supping in too.
 and convivial garden terrace to
Café Road Map A3
Fő tér 7 dishes such as pheasant and SZOMBATHELY: Hotel
Tel (94) 36 31 70 quail egg soup, everything about Wagner
this place exudes class. 
Bar, bistro and café all in one, Modern Hungarian Road Map A3
this is a super little place to Kossuth Lajos utca 15
stop off for a light bite or some SOPRON: Wollner Tel (94) 32 22 08
liquid refreshment.  Although renowned for its
International Road Map A3
Templom utca 20 extensive collection of wines,
KŐSZEG: Kék Huszár Tel (99) 52 44 00 Closed Sun & Mon the food at the sophisticated
Vendéglő The accent is on refined Wagner hotel lives right up to
 international cuisine at this the same standards.
Hungarian Road Map A3
Várkör utca 60 glittering cellar restaurant; hence
Tel (94) 36 08 50 dishes such as roast duck with TATA: La Casa
sour beetroot sauce and polenta. 
If hungry after a good walk in Seafood Road Map C3
Kőszeg, visit this restaurant at Országgyűlés tér 3
the foot of the castle that dishes SÜMEG: Várcsárda Tel (30) 768 06 83
up traditional Hungarian food.  It’s unusual to find a decent fish
Hungarian Road Map B4
Kisfaludy kert restaurant in this part of the
LAKE VELENCE: Tel (87) 35 09 24 country, but this is certainly one;
Nádas Étterem Despite catering mainly to the expect the likes of barbecued
 busloads of visitors that arrive crabs and grilled swordfish.
Hungarian Road Map C4
Agárd, Balatoni út 60
Tel (22) 37 00 06
It may be the quintessential tourist
restaurant, but that doesn’t make
Nádas Étterem any less enjoyable,
and the food is surprisingly good.

LAKE VELENCE: Ponty 
Seafood Road Map C4
Gárdony, Szabadság utca 9
Tel (22) 35 54 54
Dedicated fish restaurant with
heaps of the stuff from the lake,
the best of which is the delicious
fogas (pike-perch), typically rolled
in paprika and fried.

SOPRON: Fórum Pizzeria 
Pizzeria Road Map A3
Szent György utca 3
Tel (99) 34 02 31
Waiters scuttle around furiously
delivering thin-crust pizzas,
spaghetti and lasagne in this
most enjoyable restaurant. Traditional inn-style signage and gateway at Erhardt in Sopron

For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71

282  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Southern BALATONFÜRED: KESZTHELY: Lakoma 
Transdanubia Blaha Lujza International Road Map B4

Hungarian Road Map B4 Balaton utca 9
Blaha Lujza utca 4 Tel (83) 31 31 29
BADACSONY: Borbarátok  Tel (87) 58 12 10 If the stew of cock’s testicles
Hungarian Road Map B4 In the hotel of the same name, doesn’t appeal, then there’s
Római út 88 this quietly refined spot is the plenty more on the menu
Tel (87) 47 10 00 most appealing option in town; to satisfy in this charmingly
Opt to dine in the attractive well-crafted Hungarian standards staffed restaurant.
restaurant, cellar, gallery or and impeccable service.
garden of this superb winery; KESZTHELY: Tompos
the menu is skewed towards fish, BALATONFÜRED: Borcsa  
Modern Hungarian Road Map B4
with nicely thought-out dishes International Road Map B4 Pázmány utca 56
like pike-perch with crab penne. Tagore sétány Tel (30) 396 00 20
Tel (87) 58 12 10 A refreshingly colourful and
BADACSONY: Substantial plates of grilled meat contemporary restaurant with
Kisfaludy Ház and fish dishes are served to a a menu as long as your arm; a
 packed house at this large and typical standout dish could be
Hungarian Road Map B4
Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28 convivial lakeside terrace. grilled goose liver with sour
Tel (87) 43 10 16 cherry ragout.
Beautifully situated amid lush HÉVÍZ: Magyar Csárda
vineyards in hills high above the  PÉCS: Az Elefántos
Hungarian Road Map B4
lake, this lovely wooden house 
Tavirózsa utca 2 Café Road Map C5
has some fine game dishes to Tel (83) 34 32 71 Jókai tér 6
complement a stellar wine list. This archetypal Hungarian csárda, Tel (72) 21 60 55
offers solid, meat-heavy dishes Part pizzeria, part café, “At the
BALATONFÜRED: and a regular band of Gypsy Elephant” is a fun place to stop
Arany Csillag musicians to keep things lively. off for a quick coffee, or to
 perhaps linger a while longer
Pizzeria Road Map B4
Zsigmond utca 1 HÉVÍZ: Tavirózsa over something more substantial.

Tel (87) 48 21 16 Hungarian Road Map B4
This warm and buzzy pizzeria Tavirózsa út 4 PÉCS: Jókai Bisztró
can conjure up some two dozen 
Tel (83) 34 05 49 Modern Hungarian Road Map C5
types of pizza, including stuffed A few paces along from Magyar Jókai tér 6
ones, as well as fresh pasta and Csárda (above), this is possibly a Tel (20) 360 73 37
crisp salads. little more polished and with This bright, colourful and crisp-
superior vegetarian offerings. looking restaurant offers highly
BALATONFÜRED: appealing dishes like roasted red
Karolina Kávéház KESZTHELY: Bacchus pepper risotto with mangalica
  pork, and melon salad with
Café Road Map B4 Modern Hungarian Road Map B4
Zákonyi sétány 4 Erzsébet királyné utca 18 prawns and raspberry vinaigrette.
Tel (87) 58 30 98 Tel (83) 378 56 66
An effortlessly cool café and Lake fish takes pride of place on PÉCS: Susogó
cocktail bar with soft lighting the menu at Bacchus, whose Borvendéglő
and fabulous furniture, Karolina handsome interior features dark 
Modern Hungarian Road Map C5
Kávéház serves cracking cakes wooden beams, tables and chairs Szőlő utca 54
and coffee. crafted from old wine presses. Tel (70) 291 04 03
A wine shop that doubles as
a restaurant, Susogó is a great
place to savour first-rate
Hungarian wines, accompanied
by modern Hungarian food.

PÉCS: Tüke Borház 
International Road Map C5
Böckh János utca 39
Tel (20) 317 81 78 Closed Mon–Wed,
Sun eve
It’s worth the steep uphill walk
for both the views and the utterly
delicious food, such as oven-
roasted pork knuckle, red tuna
steak and Argentine sirloin.

SIÓFOK: Amigó Étterem 
Pizzeria Road Map C4
Fő utca 99
Tel (84) 31 09 23
If you like your food hot, then
check out the “sharpfood” menu
at this modern eatery whose
menu extends beyond the two
Art Nouveau prints soften the modern styling at Karolina Kávéház, Balatonfüred dozen or so pizzas on offer.

Key to Price Guide see p276

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  283

A nod to the baronial banqueting hall at traditional Piroska Csárda, Siófok

SIÓFOK: Calvados Étterem  TIHANY: Pál Csárda  Northern Highlands
Hungarian Road Map C4 Hungarian Road Map B4
Erkel Ferenc utca 11 Viszhang utca 19
Tel (84) 31 45 79 Tel (87) 44 86 05 EGER: Görög kávézó
Calvados is a good place to sample 
A pretty vine­shaded terrace, a Café Road Map E3
traditional Hungarian food pre­ warm buzz and some great­value Dobó utca 22
pared from local produce. Pork daily set menus make this one of Tel (36) 41 55 35 Closed evenings
dishes are made from mangalica the more enticing possibilities It’s not easy finding good
pork, known for its unsaturated fat. in the village. espresso in Hungary, but you
can here. Whilst you’re at it, try
SIÓFOK: one of the calorific cakes too.
Magyar Halászcsárda DK Choice

Seafood Road Map C4 VESZPRÉM: Oliva EGER: Il Padrino Pizza Club 

Petőfi sétány 3 International Road Map B4 Pizzeria Road Map E3
Tel (84) 50 67 86 Buhim utca 14–16 Fazola Henrik utca 1
The most agreeable of the many Tel (88) 56 19 00 Tel (36) 78 60 40
lakeside restaurants, this large, It’s unusual to find a restaurant Italian visitors love this place,
two­floored establishment serves outside Budapest where the that’s how good it is; the smoked
heaps of fishy treats. food combinations are so meat pizzas are particularly
varied, but the chef at Oliva worth devouring.
SIÓFOK: Piroska Csárda  consistently manages to come
Hungarian Road Map C4 up with some ingeniously EGER: Fehérszarvas
Zamárdi út 37 thought­out dishes like crispy Vadásztanya
breaded crab tails with chilli 
Tel (84) 35 06 83 Hungarian Road Map E3
Treat yourself to a steaming bowl jam. The best part about Klapka György utca 8
of goulash in this cheery old­style Oliva, however, is the grill Tel (36) 52 22 74
csárda with tables set around a garden where, in summer, As the rows of stuffed (animal)
vast open hearth and folk art there are regular barbecues heads would suggest, game is
adorning the walls. accompanied by live jazz. very much the theme here at
the “White Deer Hunter’s Farm”
TIHANY: Echo Étterem  restaurant. Folklore shows, too.
Modern Hungarian Road Map B4 VESZPRÉM: Villa Medici 
Viszhang domb 23 International Road Map B4
Tel (70) 946 66 87 Kittenberger Kálmán utca 11 DK Choice
Soak up magnificent lake views Tel (88) 59 00 70
from the terrace of this funky Posh and fantastically pricey EGER: Macok Bisztró 
café­cum­restaurant; clever restaurant, but worth every International Road Map E3
interpretations of Hungarian penny; guinea fowl consommé Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4
standards, such as goose liver on with porcini­stuffed pasta is Tel (36) 51 61 80 Closed Sun eve
sweet milk loaf with caramelized typical of the fine dining menu. The striking bistro in the Imola
apples, are to the fore here. hotel bears all the hallmarks of
VILLÁNY: Oportó Panzió  a top­class restaurant – neatly
TIHANY: Ferenc Pince  Modern Hungarian Road Map C6 arranged tables with crisp white
Hungarian Road Map B4 Baross Gábor utca 33 tablecloths beckon. Foie gras
Cser-hegy 9 Tel (72) 49 25 82 brûlée, smoked trout mousse
Tel (87) 44 85 75 Closed Tue A foodie and wine­lover’s treat; and carp tempura give you
Pleasantly secluded restaurant and beautifully presented food is some idea of what to expect;
winery 1 km (half a mile) south of created here to complement the four­ or six­course tasting
the village, Ferenc Pince is worth the outstanding wine from the menus are flavour sensations.
the trek for its grilled and roast cellar. The imperial­style decor, The adjoining St Andrea wine
meat dishes, and wine, of course. meanwhile, is stunning. bar is also worth a visit.

For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71

284  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

EGER: Szantofer Vendéglő  MISKOLC: Café du Boucher 
Modern Hungarian Road Map E3 Belgian Road Map E2
Bródy Sándor utca 3 Görgey Artúr utca 42
Tel (36) 51 72 98 Tel (46) 43 23 20
Classic Hungarian cuisine – pork A little pricey but good, this beer
knuckle, paprika, veal stew and café offers generously portioned,
the like – is prepared here, but Belgian-accented food that
jazzed up for modern tastes. complements the enticing line-up
of draught beers to perfection.
GYÖNGYÖS:
Kékes Étterem PARÁDFÜRDŐ:
 Erzsébet Park Hotel
International Road Map D3

Fő tér 7 Modern Hungarian Road Map E3
Tel (37) 31 19 15 Kossuth út 372
This superb Secessionist house Tel (36) 54 40 00
has beautifully arranged tables on Formal without being overly stuffy,
which diners can feast on dishes the high-class restaurant in the
such as braised veal with roasted Park is worth making a stop for,
peaches and almond potatoes. as much for the ambience and
parkland vistas as the food itself.
HOLLÓKŐ:
Muskátli Vendéglő SÁROSPATAK:
 V. András Étterem Guests dining alfresco at the quintessentially
Hungarian Road Map D2 rustic Hortobágyi Csárda

Kossuth út 61 Hungarian Road Map F2 offers mouthwatering dishes like
Tel (32) 37 92 62 Closed Mon & Tue Béla király tér 3 breaded goose liver with spring
A cutesy little coffee shop in Tel (47) 31 24 15 onion mash and fried apples. A
one of the village’s UNESCO- Mellow place with model airships pleasant summer terrace looks
protected houses, this place also and aeroplanes dangling from the over the park.
rustles up simple, peasant-style ceiling – not that any distractions
dishes. Closed in the evenings. are needed from the exquisite
menu, featuring the likes of creamy
LILLAFÜRED: veal stew with mushrooms.
Mátyás Étterem
 SÁROSPATAK: The Great Plain
Hungarian Road Map E2
Erzsébet sétány 1 Vár Vendéglő
 BAJA: Sobri Halászcsárda 
Tel (46) 33 14 11 Modern Hungarian Road Map F2
Guests can take their pick from Arpád utca 35 Seafood Road Map C5
several good restaurants inside Tel (47) 31 13 70 Petőfi-sziget, Március 15, sétány 10
the Palota Hotel, though the The restaurant of the pension of Tel (79) 42 06 54
Renaissance-inspired Mátyás the same name, this is a serene Founded by champion Danube
just about wins out. little spot with a fantastic halászé (fisherman) Jószef “Sobri”
wooden-roofed terrace and Farkas, this striking white villa is
MISKOLC: Zip’s Brewhouse  some delicious interpretations the place to head to in town for
International Road Map E2 of classic Hungarian dishes. all things fishy.
Arany János tér 1
Tel (46) 95 21 92 TOKAJ: Gróf Degenfeld  BAJA: Véndió Étterem 
There’s more to this ace micro- Modern Hungarian Road Map F2 Seafood Road Map C5
brewery than beer; salivate over Tarcal, Terézia kert 9 Petőfi-sziget, Március 15, sétány 1
foie gras terrine with mango, or Tel (47) 38 01 49 Tel (79) 42 76 55
duck breast gnocchi in a wild The short but superb menu in Not quite in the same league as
mushroom sauce. Closed 3–6pm. the posh Degenfeld castle hotel Sobri (above), but very accom-
plished all the same, Véndió
comes with a sunny, summery
terrace overlooking the water.

BUGAC: Karikás Csárda 
Hungarian Road Map D4
Nagybugac 135
Tel (76) 57 51 12
People flock to this converted
stables at the entrance to the
park for Puszta specialities like
bogrács gulyás, a stew cooked
slowly over an open fire.

DEBRECEN: Flaska Vendéglő 
Hungarian Road Map F3
Miklós utca 4
Tel (52) 41 45 82
The countrified, peasant-style
decor sets the scene for regional
speciality dishes, notably Palóc
The grand Gróf Degenfeld restaurant, located in Degenfeld castle, Tokaj soup and Hortobágy pancakes.

Key to Price Guide see p276

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK  285

DEBRECEN: Bohem Belgian
Beer Café

Belgian Road Map F3
Piac utca 29
Tel (52) 53 63 73
At this pub-style place guests can
tuck into Belgian standards like
mussels and boudin sausages,
all washed down with Leffe ale.

DEBRECEN:
Csokonai Étterem

Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Kossuth utca 21
Tel (52) 41 08 02
A sweet cellar restaurant with wall
lamps and candle-topped tables,
Csokonai is perfect for a romantic
dalliance. Trout fillet with Cognac
sauce is a typical offering.

DEBRECEN: IKON  Modern elegance warmed by soft lighting at Tiszavirág in Szeged
Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Piac utca 23 Camembert), while the restaurant guests can dine on garlic goose
Tel (30) 555 77 66 Closed Mon, itself looks fabulous, particularly liver, and an adjoining lounge-
Sun eve the mosaic-tiled flooring. like area for pizzas and suchlike.
One of the new breed of modern
Hungarian ventures, IKON special- KECSKEMÉT: SZEGED:
izes in imaginative gastronomic Kecskeméti Csárda Kiskörössy Halászcsárda 
fare like rabbit paprikás and duck 
Hungarian Road Map D4 Seafood Road Map E5
breast with cabbage ravioli. Kölcsey utca 7 Felső Tisza-part 336
Tel (76) 48 86 86 Closed Sun eve Tel (62) 55 58 86
GYULA: Várkonyi This is a classic Hungarian csárda, On the banks of the Tisza,
Bisztró és Bár with blue-dyed tablecloths, this was a favoured haunt of
 painted ceramics and strings of England’s Prince of Wales (the
International Road Map F4
Kossuth utca 14 paprika lining the walls. The house future King Edward VII) in the
Tel (66) 63 03 24 speciality, knuckle of mangalica 1890s. It’s still going strong,
The interior here is modelled pork, is not to be missed. and you’ll not find a better fish
on international bistro trends menu for miles around.
and so are many of its dishes. If KISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZA:
you’re seeking something more Kulacs Vendéglő
traditionally Hungarian, Varkonyi  DK Choice
Seafood Road Map D4
serves that too. Széchenyi István utca 39 SZEGED: Tiszavirág 
Tel (76) 43 13 86 International Road Map E5
HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ: Very reasonably priced menu Hajnóczy utca 1/b
Kemencés Csárda of largely steak and fish, with a Tel (62) 55 48 88 Closed Sun,
 dinky terrace for warm weather. Mon lunch
Modern Hungarian Road Map F3 Szeged’s finest hotel has an
Daru zug 1/A There’s often live music. equally high-class restaurant,
Tel (52) 36 22 21 which looks fantastic and is
Generous portions of smoked NYÍRBÁTOR: Hódi made all the more enjoyable
pork knuckle, creamed veg  by the open kitchen. To keep
International Road Map G3 things fresh, the menu
stews and the like are to be Báthori István utca 11 changes weekly, but expect
found at this rustically styled inn Tel (42) 28 10 12 wonderfully concocted dishes
where you’re almost certainly Housed in a Baroque hotel, the like rack of lamb with fried
guaranteed some live music, too. food here is high-end modern buckwheat and yam purée.
European, though there’s also There’s also a cheerful café
HORTOBÁGY: Hortobágyi plenty of choice of local dishes. and a bar offering a well-
Csárda chosen wine list.
 NYÍREGYHÁZA: Svájci Lak 
Hungarian Road Map F3 Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Petőfi tér 1 Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
Tel (52) 58 93 38 Tel (42) 41 44 44
Tourist trappings aside, this Writer Gyula Krudy and actress
venerable establishment is worth Lujza Blaha would have once TISZAFÜRED:
heading to for local treats such dined here at the “Swiss Cottage”. Molnár Vendéglő
as guinea-fowl soup and kettle- The lake fish is exceptional. 
Seafood Road Map E3
cooked goulash. Húszöles út 31/B
Tel (59) 35 27 05
KECSKEMÉT: Géniusz SZEGED: Alabárdos Located by the Tisza, it’s entirely
  appropriate that Molnár serves
French Road Map D4 International Road Map E5
Kisfaludy utca 5 Oskola utca 13 up a welter of fish dishes,
Tel (76) 49 76 68 Tel (20) 231 35 41 from catfish and carp to pike-
The food here manifests a French Alabárdos incorporates both perch; try the halpaprikás (fish
twist (stuffed chicken breast with a smart formal section where in paprika sauce).

For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71

286  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN HUNGARY

Some people complain that the explosion the bizarre and the beautiful, the useful
of shopping malls has taken much of and the quirky. Souvenir hunters are spoiled
the charm out of shopping in Hungary, for choice too. Those looking for something
yet visitors with a little patience and the typically Hungarian could buy Zsolnay
right inside knowledge can still find some porcelain, handmade textiles from the
of the most wonderful, unique shops in Folkart shops, vintage Tokaji wine, paprika or
Europe. The city centres bustle with small, spicy Debreceni sausages. Horse-lovers will
family-owned shops selling inimitable find the craft shops in the towns of the Great
trinkets, crafts and luxuries – foie gras is Plain a delight, where saddles, riding boots,
one of the nation’s biggest exports. Then crops and hats are of the highest standard
there are the flea markets, packed with and great value.

Opening Times Dried paprika and handmade wicker VAT and Tax-Free
baskets in the market in Tihany Shopping
Most small shops usually open
at 9am and close at 7pm; some further means of identification, The price of all goods in
stay open later, until 9pm or so carry your passport with Hungary includes a Value
10pm, especially in modern, you while shopping. Added Tax (ÁFA) of 27 per cent.
purpose-built shopping With the exception of works
centres. Most shops open all Visitors are advised to have of art and antiques, it is
day on Saturday, and many a fair amount of cash on them possible for non-EU residents
outlets also open their doors at all times, however, as some to claim back the ÁFA on any
on Sundays. Markets are set smaller shops will simply refuse purchase costing more than
up seven days a week. Large to take payment with a card. 45,000 forints (€175) when
supermarkets also open seven leaving the country.
days a week, until at least 8pm.
Some, usually smaller shops If you wish to reclaim the
open on public holidays, with tax, you must make sure when
the exception of Christmas purchasing the item that the
Day and New Year’s Day. Many shop will be able to give you
small kiosks selling bus tickets, a special ÁFA refund receipt.
alcohol, groceries and house- Only those shops geared to
hold essentials are open 24 selling to foreign tourists tend
hours a day. to keep the necessary forms to
hand. You then have to present
Payment the paperwork and the goods,
together with your passport,
Most shops now accept credit at a customs post within
and debit cards, though 90 days of purchase in order
producing one from your wallet to receive customs certification
may elicit groans from the for your claim form. To apply
vendor. If you are using a debit for the refund, your sales
card, you may be asked for receipt and currency exchange
or credit card receipt are also
required. The money can
then be claimed within 183
days of returning home.
Payment is usually made direct
to a bank account, minus a
small service charge.

Westend City Center shopping mall in Budapest Department Stores
and Shopping Malls

There are a number of
department stores in Hungary,
many of which are housed
in spectacular old buildings.
Besides the enormous
shopping centres in Budapest,
Debrecen, Pécs and Szeged all
have large shopping centres,

SHOPPING IN HUNGARY  287

Szentendre. Other local goods
worth looking out for include
carpets (especially rugs with
plain, naive designs), and
wooden toys (especially toy
soldiers in Habsburg-era
uniforms). Hungary is also
renowned for its wonderful,
handmade teddy bears, which
– although expensive – make
superb presents.

Delicacies

Hungary exports more foie gras

than any other country in the

world with the exception of

Typical goods for sale at the Central Market Hall in Budapest France. It is available from

called plazas, within walking Handicrafts and Folk art delicatessens all over the country,
and prices are far lower than

distance of the city centre. Open Hungary has a long tradition abroad. Look out for the distinctive

until late, and with a vast variety of producing high-quality black and gold labels and

of food outlets, as well as multi- porcelain and pottery, with packaging of the Rex Ciborum

screen cinemas, these all-purpose the Herend and Zsolnay brand: a guarantee of quality.

malls are very popular. In all, names carrying a worldwide Paprika – as a condiment –

there are more than 110 plazas reputation. Herend porcelain can be bought in all colours,

in towns around the country. is famous for its decorative shapes, varieties and degrees

There are also 115 popular and highly colourful designs, of heat in Hungary. Alternatively

Tesco hypermarkets, selling a and the factory shop in there are many products

wide range of food and non-food the small town of Herend containing paprika as

items. With a few exceptions, (see p207), north of an ingredient, from

however, they are on the Lake Balaton, stocks paprika pastes to spicy

outskirts of cities, and difficult a small selection of Hungarian salamis or

to reach without a car. recent productions. sausages (try gyulai

The Zsolnay porcelain kolbász or Debreceni, for

Markets factory in Pécs (see example). Most cheeses
p190) also has a shop. are mild; the pungent

Markets of all sorts are an Bright colours are also Pálpusztai is a glorious

essential part of everyday life characteristic of Ajka Paste made from exception, if something

all over Hungary. Apart from crystal, which has Hungarian paprika of a liability in one’s

good, fresh produce, they been recognized as luggage. Markets all

offer a delightfully traditional Hungary’s finest for over the country will also sell

shopping experience to visitors. more than 150 years. It is their own regional specialities.

Many cities also organize open- made in the small town

air craft and folk art markets. The of Ajka, close to Veszprém. Equestrian Goods
best is in Hollókő and, though There are two stores selling

some of the wares are kitsch Ajka crystal in the village Given the pedigree of its

by most standards, prices are itself, and many more horsemen, such as the famous

good and souvenir ideas limit- throughout Hungary. Puszta Fivers (see p239), it comes

less. Debrecen city council also For best examples of the as no surprise to discover that

organizes an excellent craft fair finest Hungarian embroidery Hungary is a great place to

during August in Kossuth tér. (found on dresses, tablecloths, purchase tack. Finely crafted

place mats and saddles made from the best

cushion covers), the leather, boots, bridles, crops

village museum of and even polo mallets are made

Hollókő is a great to the highest specifications at

outlet. Prices are high, a great number of workshops

but the quality is throughout the country. The

outstanding. Lower- best are those from the Great

priced examples can Plain – Hungary’s pre-eminent

be found in the many equestrian region – and there is

stalls and small shops no shortage of excellent sporting

that line the busy goods shops in Debrecen,

Traditional folk crafts in a Szentendre market pedestrian streets of Hortobágy and Szeged.

288  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN HUNGARY

The range of cultural events and Debrecen – feature regularly on the
entertainment in Hungary is wide and richly international arts calendar. Yet even
varied. It is a vibrant country where people the smallest Hungarian town usually has
have always known how to have a good time, its own orchestra, dance company and
and both mainstream and more eclectic theatre, while during the summer central
forms of entertainment have always been squares and plazas are abuzz with outdoor
encouraged. Music festivals – from opera in concerts, plays and other artistic happenings.
Miskolc, Baroque music in Sopron and jazz in For entertainment in Budapest see pp120–21.

Music, Opera, Dance of music festivals throughout Palace Disco, a lively nightspot
and Cinema Hungary, including the annual
Jazz Days in Debrecen, and in Siófok
While Budapest is home to one the Baroque and Early Music
of Europe’s finest opera houses, Days of Sopron, see pp34–7. Nightlife
it does not hold a monopoly
on Hungarian opera and music. Most major Hungarian cities While for nightlife nowhere
In Miskolc, for example, the have a multiplex cinema, usually in Hungary compares to
sublime Grand National housed within the city’s shopping Budapest, there are plenty of
Theatre often hosts excellent centre. They show a wide range nightspots in the regions to
operatic performances. During of films, some in the original keep disco dancers and night
the Miskolc Opera Festival, language. Most foreign films owls happy. The university cities
held over two weeks in June, in Hungary are dubbed, of Szeged, Miskolc and Győr
some of the world’s best although films with subtitles are among the liveliest, with a
performers can be seen here. only are also screened at some wide range of pubs, clubs and
cinemas, especially in Budapest. nightclubs. Győr’s Vigadó Pince
Pécs also has a rich cultural Non-Hungarian speakers Pub has live bands most nights.
heritage. The city has both opera should opt for the angol nyelvű Veszprém, too, gets lively in the
and ballet companies of world (English soundtrack) version. evenings, with the Expresszó
renown, performing at the Films may even be shown in Club living up to its name as
National Theatre, usually English with no subtitles at all – buzziest venue. The Mythos
accompanied by the Pannon these are advertised as angol Music Club has either live
Philharmonic Orchestra. Some nyelvű, felirat nélkül (English acts or top international DJs at
of the finest choirs in Hungary language, no subtitles). The weekends. During the summer
gather here to celebrate the cinemas also show Hungarian almost all of Lake Balaton’s
grape harvest in autumn with films, both the latest releases resorts thump to the universal
ten days of wine and song. and repertory films from a beat of Europop. Siófok espe-
Veszprém, likewise, is known as a time of cinematic glory, when cially can be loud and really
musical city, and small-scale cham- Miklós Jancsó and István Szabó quite boisterous of an evening.
ber concerts in the Castle District received international awards The Palace Dance Club is one
courtyard are a highlight of all as directors. of the country’s largest, though
summer visits here. For details it is a 15-minute walk out of
the town centre. A little more
A performance at the Miskolc Opera Festival, held each year in June sophisticated is the north
Balaton resort of Balatonfüred,
where SunCity, a cultural and
party venue in Greek-style buil-
dings, and Cocomo Café on
the beach attract the crowds.

ENTERTAINMENT IN HUNGARY  289

Casinos were once ubiquitous DIRECTORY
in Hungary, but gaming laws
enacted in 2012 forced most Theatres & Opera
of them to close; less than ten Houses
casinos are now licensed in the
whole of the country. The Miskolc Grand National
same laws removed the slot Theatre (Miskolci Nemzeti
machines once found in almost Színház)
every Hungarian café and Déryné utca 1, Miskolc.
bar. While the dress code at Tel (46) 51 67 35. ∑ mnsz.eu
the casinos still in business
has largely been relaxed, Pécs National Theatre (Pécsi
visitors must purchase a token Nemzeti Színház)
“membership” in order to enter, Színház tér 1, Pécs.
so take some photo ID. Tel (72) 51 26 60. ∑ pnsz.hu

Information Pony riding in Budapest, one of many Festivals
activities for children
Debrecen Jazz Days
The best listings magazines in ∑ iranydebrecen.hu

Hungary are published by Pesti aquaparks such as those in Miskolc Opera Festival
∑ operafesztival.hu
Est, the famous Budapest weekly. Debrecen and Zalaegerszeg
Sopron Early Music Days
Though published almost entirely (see p290). ∑ filharmonia.hu

in Hungarian, the colourful ads Pubs, Clubs & Discos

should be decipherable to most Spectator Sports Cocomo Café
people. As it is published weekly Zákonyi Ferenc sétány 4
(Silver Court), Balatonfüred.
in 22 Hungarian cities visitors Football (soccer) is the most Tel (70) 330 33 78.

can find local editions of Est popular spectator sport in Expresszó Club
Brusznyai Árpád utca 2, Veszprém.
distributed for free in Hungary. The domestic Tel (20) 938 04 11.

many bars, restaurants, league is highly com­ Mythos Music Club
Szabadság tér 1, Veszprém.
hotels and shops. petitive, and crowds
Palace Dance Club
Hotel reception desks can be large. The Vécsey Károly utca 20, Siófok.
Tel (30) 200 88 88. ∑ palace.hu
and TourInform offices country’s best sides
SunCity
will also usually be include Újpest, Honvéd Fürdő utca 35, Balatonfüred.
Tel (70) 361 93 78, or (70) 263 06
happy to help visitors and Ferencváros of 49. ∑ suncity-balaton.hu

with information Budapest; Videoton Vigadó Pince Pub
Kisfaludy utca 2, Győr.
about concerts Székesfehérvár; Tel (30) 296 29 64.

and nightlife. Zalaegerszeg; and Casinos

Veszprémi Est magazine Debrecen. The season Casino Sopron
Lackner K. utca 33/A, Sopron.
Children runs August–December Tel (99) 51 23 50.
and March–June. Tickets can be
Las Vegas Casino
Hungarians of all ages love purchased from stadium ticket Széchenyi István tér 2, Budapest.
Tel (1) 266 20 81.
puppets, and most cities offices on the day. Handball is
Children
in the country have excellent also popular, and both the male
Aquaticum Debrecen
puppet theatres. The best are and female teams are world­class. Nagyerdei park 1, Debrecen.
Tel (52) 51 41 00.
those at Szeged and Kecskemét, Water polo, rowing, basketball,
AquaCity Zalaegerszeg
which also has a toy museum gymnastics tournaments and Fürdő sétány 2, Zalaegerszeg.
Tel (92) 59 91 01.
and workshop that is very international swimming compe­

popular with children. Kids titions also attract crowds.

of all ages enjoy narrow­gauge For details of the Hungarian

and steam railways Formula 1 Grand Prix, see p35.

such as those at Bugac,

Balaton, Nyíregyháza

and Kecskemét.

Horse riding is another

great way of enter­

taining children,

and you are never

far from an equestrian

centre in Hungary

(see p292). Swimming

pools, too, are found

across the country,

although children

often prefer modern Flatwater Rowing Championship in Szeged

290  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
IN HUNGARY

Hungarians adore the great outdoors, and visitors should take the opportunity to join
spend a great deal of their leisure time in. On the Great Plain, horses remain an
finding new ways of enjoying nature, both important part of everyday life, and there are
in winter and summer. Most Hungarians, at a number of equestrian centres in and around
some stage, partake in the national ritual that the region’s larger towns. They offer riding
is bathing, and since virtually all towns and courses at all levels, as well as putting on
cities feature at least one thermal baths displays of Hungarian horsemanship.

Tourist Information Office sign in a number of excuse at all to strip off and
languages, “Spas and head for a steam bath, even
General Information Wellness Packages” in the outdoors in the middle
and “On Horseback”, of winter. Old men playing
Tourinform offices are an can be downloaded for chess in the outdoor pool at
excellent source of information free from Tourinform’s excellent Budapest’s Széchenyi baths,
on sports and outdoor website (www.tourinform.hu). steam rising from the water
activities in Hungary. Most and snow on all sides, is one
stock special publications Swimming Pools and of Hungary’s defining sights.
outlining activities in the Thermal Baths With the exception of the
surrounding area, and will football team of the 1950s,
provide addresses, telephone Most Hungarians view public all of Hungary’s most successful
numbers and directions to bathing as a birthright, and and best­known athletes have
nearby thermal bath com­ with more than 300 operating been swimmers, including
plexes, swimming pools thermal bath complexes in Alfréd Hajós, who won the
and equestrian centres. the country, most of which first ever Olympic swimming
Two helpful brochures have larger swimming pools gold medal in 1896, and after
attached, it is not difficult to whom a swimming pool on
see why. Hungarians need no Margaret Island, Budapest,
has since been named.
Slides at the Aquaticum thermal baths complex in Debrecen
It is no great surprise, then,
that Hungary has made an
industry out of its thermal
baths. Visitors have for centuries
flocked to this country
from all over Europe to take
to the waters, and to swim
in its outdoor pools. The mod­
ern aquaparks, including the
super Aquaticum complex at
Debrecen, which has slides,
water jets, Jacuzzis and artificial
waves, make sure that children
catch the swimming bug early.
In summer, Lake Balaton is
a popular swimming venue,
and while most Balaton resorts
do not restrict water access
to swimmers, some parts
of the lake are reserved for
water sports. The water quality
in Hungary is usually good.
People even occasionally
swim in the Danube, especially
around the Danube Bend
towns of Esztergom
and Szentendre.

For more information on
Hungary’s thermal bath
complexes see pp26–7.

SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES IN HUNGARY  291

Cycling

Cycling became popular in

Hungary post­Communist

times as in that era roads were

never really good enough to

make cycling attractive. Today,

however, pedal power is one

of the best ways to explore

the Hungarian countryside.

In Budapest, the city council

has invested heavily in creating

a city­wide cycle path network.

It extends to over 200 km

(124 miles). Nationwide there

are more than 2,000 km

(1,243 miles) of cycle paths,

Boats in the marina at Balatonföldvár, Lake Balaton though not all of these are

Water Sports paved. Two EuroVelo routes
easier, flat trails on the Great Plain traverse Hungary, one

Lake Balaton is a major water and along parts of the Danube. following the eastern bank

sports centre. Among the In all, Hungary has over 11,000 of the Danube, one hugging

activities available here are km (6,835 miles) of trails, marked the eastern bank of the River

water­skiing, windsurfing, with a coloured stripe according Tisza. In Northern Trans­

rowing, canoeing and water to the length of the danubia, some of

polo, the last being a popular trail (blue for a long­ Europe’s best cycle

spectator sport. Ever since distance trail, yellow for routes are around

the Siófok Balaton Company a short, local trail). All Lake Fertő. There are

opened its doors to paying the National Parks have superb routes in the

customers in 1893, however, well signposted trails. Northern Highlands.

Hungary’s favourite water sport One of the best trails Visitors can hire

has been sailing. In fair weather for good amateur bikes from a number

Lake Balaton can look like a walkers is the Balaton­ of rental centres in

floating forest of sailing boats. felvidék trail in the Siófok and most of

Siófok is the main sailing southern Bakony Hills. the resorts on Lake

resort, although there are also The 94­km (58­mile) Road sign aimed Balaton – where

yachting centres at Szigliget, blue trail starts at at walkers the sport is especially

Balatonföldvár, Badacsony and Pétfürdő station in popular – as well as at

Balatonlelle. All offer sailing Várpalota, and goes through Bikebase in the capital. Cyclists

lessons to novices, and will hire the most spectacular part of the may take their bikes on trains

out boats of various sizes to Balaton­felvidék before ending within Hungary for a fee

the more experienced. Visitors at the railway station in Badacsony. (around 25 per cent of the

wishing to lease a boat require Tourinform have an excellent ticket price), but only on

an International Sailing Licence, free brochure on hiking in specially designated trains

or need to be able to explain Hungary, giving details of identified by the bicycle icon

(in best pidgin Hungarian) that routes and accommodation. on the timetable.

they know what they are doing.

Usually, a driving licence, pass­

port or credit card need to be

deposited with the boatyard. For

information contact the Balaton

Regional Tourist Office.

To learn how to water­ski,

visitors are advised to head for

Siófok or Balatonfüred or contact

the Hungarian Water Ski and

Wakeboard Association.

Hiking Cyclists pausing in front of the Millennium Monument, Városliget, Budapest

In summer trains heading for
the hills are packed with hikers.
The northeast of the country is
home to some superb, challeng­
ing hiking trails, and there are

292  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Steeplechase, a popular equestrian pursuit abound. The Hungarian of water in the country, more or
Equestrian Tourism less at any time of year, but they
Horse Riding Association (MLTKSZ) do require a Hungarian National
rates all equine centres Fishing Licence to do so; this is
Hungary and the Hungarians using a five-horseshoe available from the National
are invariably linked to horses system, similar to the Federation of Hungarian
and horsemanship, and riding star ratings awarded Anglers (MOHOSZ). The
is still a popular activity with to hotels. As a rule, the licence, valid for up to a year,
people of all backgrounds. wider the range of costs around 2,000 forints (€6)
Basically, if an activity or sport activities that are on and also requires the angler to
involves horses, you will almost offer at an equestrian pass a test. Fishing enthusiasts
certainly be able to find it centre, the more horse- may also need to buy a local
somewhere in Hungary. From shoes it will have in licence, depending on the
simple pony-trekking rides to its rating. Many riding stretch of water where they
carriage driving and show- centres also offer over- plan to fish. Local licences
jumping, it is all on offer here. night accommodation. can usually be bought at the
Even polo has made a come- All offer gentle pony-trekking entrances to major fishing areas.
back. The sport was popular trails for children or beginners, Local tourist offices will have a
here before World War II – as well as riding lessons for all list of sales points.
Hungary had 76 polo clubs abilities. Some riding centres
competing in 19 leagues in offer special children’s riding Waiting for river fish to bite in the Danube,
1936 – but the Communists camps in summer. near Esztergom
condemned the activity as The MLTKSZ is helpful and
bourgeois. There are now two provides information about all the Hunting
polo clubs in Hungary, and equestrian centres it rates. It also
the Hungarian Open Champion- has details of shows, races, riding Hungary is a nation of hunters
ship held each May at the La holidays and travelling with Gypsy but hunting is now strictly
Estancia Polo Club at Etyek, caravans, as well as riding facilities controlled. After years of free-
outside Budapest, attracts for the disabled. Local tourist for-all shooting, great emphasis
professional players from as far centres also have brochures of is now placed on conservation
away as Brazil and Argentina. riding centres in their area. and sustainability. Depending
on the time of year, the hunter
There are more than 1,000 Fishing can shoot stags, fallow deer,
riding centres in the country, roebuck, wild boar, fox, rabbit
and just as there seems to be Almost half a million Hungarians and pheasant. The biggest
a thermal spa in every town in fish at one time or another during prize is a stag, but the season
Hungary, riding centres also the year; indeed, after swimming, is short – September and
fishing is the nation’s favourite October – and interested
participation sport. Lakes Tisza, visitors will need to join an
Balaton and Velence are superb organized shoot.
and popular fishing grounds,
while a stretch of the Danube Anyone wishing to join a
near Ráckeve is also renowned hunt in Hungary must hold a
for the richness of species and valid hunting licence, and there
quality of fish. Anglers are able are strict regulations on the
to land carp, pike, pike-perch, import of firearms for hunting
bream, razor fish and even eels purposes. Trophy fees are
in Hungarian waters. Anglers charged for almost all game;
can fish in just about any stretch these are calculated according
to the size of the bagged
Fishing in Lake Balaton, a well-liked sport among locals and visitors catch. There are a number of
companies who organize
hunting holidays and tours,
and who will take care of all
the paperwork. The Hungarian

SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES IN HUNGARY  293

the only course in Hungary to
have hosted an international
golf tour event.

Visitors can find out more
about golfing in Hungary
at the excellent website
www.golfhungary.hu.

Skating at the ice rink in Varosliget, Budapest DIRECTORY

National Chamber of Hunters arriving in Budapest at 5:30pm. Water Sports
(OMVK), offers advice on all Drivers should take the M3
hunting matters. motorway from Budapest to Balaton Regional
Gyöngyös, then the H24 passing Tourist Office
Winter Sports through Mátrafüred, Mátraháza, Blaha Lujza utca 2, Balatonfüred.
Galyatető and Mátraszentlászló. Tel (87) 34 28 01.
Hungarians love skiing, but they Although the highest point of
are more likely to ski in Austrian the resort is just 834 m (2,736 ft), Hungarian Water
or Slovakian resorts, many of there is usually enough snow Ski and Wakeboard
which are no more than a for skiing from November to April. Association
couple of hours’ drive away. 1033 Hajógyári Sziget 108,
Hungary does have one small Ice-skating is also popular, Budapest. Tel (1) 487 20 41.
downhill ski resort of its own, and the best place to do this is
however, the Mátraszentistván at the superb outdoor skating Horse Riding
Sípark in the Mátra Mountains. rink in Városliget in Budapest
It offers pleasant but rather (see pp110–11). Hungarian Equestrian
tame skiing. In all there are five Tourism Association
ski lifts giving access to seven Golf (MLTKSZ)
short ski runs, none of which is Aranyhal utca 4, Budapest.
more than 1 km (0.5 mile) in A sport gaining in popularity Tel (1) 215 35 60.
length. There is, however, a in the country, Hungary has
good ski school, and children seven full 18-hole golf courses, Fishing and Hunting
and beginners especially will virtually all located in or around
love the quiet, gentle slopes the capital. Golfing remains an Hungarian National
here. Floodlit skiing is possible expensive and exclusive sport in Chamber of Hunters
at night. Hungary, however, and green (OMVK)
fees at most courses are high: Medve utca 34–40, Budapest.
Mátraszentistván is 96 km around 17,500 forints (€55) at Tel (1) 355 61 80. ∑ omvk.hu
(60 miles) away from Budapest, weekends, slightly less during
and can be reached by a daily bus the week. The best course in the National Federation of
service departing from Stadion country is at the Greenfield Hungarian Anglers
Buszpályaudvar at 8:15am and Hotel Golf and Spa, close (MOHOSZ)
arriving at the resort at 10:35am. to Bükfürdő, about 50 km Korompai utca 17, Budapest.
The return bus leaves at 3pm, (31 miles) from Budapest. It is Tel (1) 248 25 90.
∑ mohosz.hu

Winter Sports

Hungarian Ski Association
(MSSZ)
1137 Budapest, Radnóti Miklós
utca 29, fsz 1, Budapest.
Tel (30) 982 52 52.

Mátraszentistván Sípark
Tel (37) 37 66 85.

Golf

Greenfield Hotel Golf
and Spa
Golf utca 4, Bükfürdő.
Tel (94) 80 16 00.
∑ greenfieldhotel.net

Hungarian Golf Federation
(MGSZ)
Istvánmezei út 1–3, Budapest.
Tel (1) 460 68 59.
∑ hungolf.hu

Teeing off at the Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa, Bükfürdő



SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 296–303
Travel Information 304–311

296  SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Hungary is not a large country, but it is one of the best and most efficient
highly centralized, and almost all roads information services in Europe. Most
and railways lead to Budapest. Any Hungarian towns have modern facilities
visit beyond the capital is well worth for the traveller, including good banking
organizing in advance. Most visitors also services and emergency medical care, and
find the Hungarian language hard to learn, public telephone and transport systems
remember and pronounce, and there are good. Customs and border controls
is little or no English spoken outside now apply mainly to travellers from
the cities. Fortunately, Tourinform, the countries outside the EU. For EU and EEA
Hungarian National Tourist Office, is citizens the entry procedure is a formality.

as well as and a few other Opening times for specific

countries, are free to enter venues are given under their

Hungary as tourists without individual entries. Typically,

requiring a visa. Almost museums open from 10am to

everybody else needs a visa, 6pm from April until October,

which must be obtained from and a couple of hours less in

a Hungarian Consulate outside winter, from November to

Hungary before travel. Visitors March. Most museums are

should keep their passports (or closed on Mondays. Almost all

at least a copy) on them at all charge an entrance fee, but

times. A valid passport needs many offer discounts.

to be shown when registering Most small shops open from

at a hotel. 9am to 7pm; some stay open

Visitors returning to EU until 9pm or 10pm, especially

countries may export unlimit- in modern shopping centres.

ed quantities of alcohol and Shops usually open all day on

One of many tourist information offices, tobacco, provided these are for Saturdays, and many open
run by Tourinform
personal use. However, note their doors on Sundays too.
Tourist Information
that some EU countries have Markets operate seven days a
Hungary operates tourist
offices abroad in some 20 imposed their own limits on week from early morning to
countries, all run by Tour-
inform. Their websites (see imports from countries such as around 3pm. Large supermar-
Directory), also have a wide
variety of useful information, Hungary where cigarettes and kets also open seven days a
brochures and maps, all of
which can be downloaded alcohol are cheap. Though week, until at least 8pm. Small
for free in various formats.
Holiday brochures can also these unilateral limits are illegal shops may open on public holi-
be sent by post, free of
charge. Once in Hungary, under EU law, days. Many of the
travellers can make use of
the services of more than they are strictly small kiosks sell-
150 Tourinform offices
nationwide. In most of these enforced. The UK, ing bus tickets,
offices young, friendly and
multilingual staff will do for example, limits food and alcohol
everything to make visitors
feel welcome in their country. cigarette imports are open 24

Passports and Customs from Hungary to hours a day.

Citizens of the European Union just 800. Check Restaurants
(EU), the European Economic
Area (EEA), countries that are before leaving usually open
signatories of the Schengen
agreement, the USA, Canada, home. Safety Signs indicating local amenities at 11:30am and
Australia and New Zealand, and attractions rarely close in
Travel Advice the afternoon;
Hungarians like to lunch early,

Visitors can get up-to-date and at leisure.

travel safety information from

the Foreign and Commonwealth Etiquette
Office in the UK, the State

Department in the US and the Bans on smoking in public

Department of Foreign Affairs places are increasingly

and Trade in Australia. common. All bars, cafés

and restaurants are non-

Opening Hours smoking, and all museums,
public transport, stations,

Museums and galleries are airports and other public

open all year round, though buildings are also entirely

there are some exceptions. non-smoking. Smokers should

A spectacular view of the Chain Bridge with Budapest’s funicular railway in the foreground

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION  297

Staircase especially adapted for disabled use wheelchair-accessible Hungarian Time
at certain stations.
note that tobacco goods Most hotels can accom- Hungary adheres to Central
can only be purchased at modate disabled vis- European Time in keeping with
shops signposted “Nemzeti tors, often in specially most of mainland Europe – it is
Dohánybolt”, with their opaque adapted rooms. As a 2 hours ahead of Greenwich
windows. Entrance is restricted rule of thumb, the bet- Mean Time (GMT) in summer
to people aged over 18. ter the hotel, the more and 1 hour ahead in winter.
likely disabled visitors
Hungarians are usually very are to find rooms suita- Hungarian Addresses
friendly towards visitors. They ble for them. and Street Names
queue patiently, except when
getting on and off any form of For advice and help, Most famous Hungarians have
public transport. The only contact the National squares (tér), streets (utca) and
stumbling block is the language Federation of Disabled avenues (út) named after them
barrier – many older Hungarians Persons’ Associations. in every large city and town,
speak no Western languages. Their excellent website which it is easy to confuse.
lists accessible hotels,
Casual clothing is acceptable restaurants, museums and Many first-time visitors to
everywhere, even in the other public buildings, as Budapest also confuse Váci utca
restaurants of Budapest’s most well as transport links. (the pedestrian street in the city
expensive hotels. At business centre) with Váci út (the wide
meetings, too, suits and ties Public Toilets avenue north of the city centre).
are much less common than
elsewhere in Europe. But at Unfortunately, when it comes Hungarian addresses are
the theatre or classical music to the provision of decent public written with the postcode first,
concerts you are expected to toilets, Hungary remains in the followed by the street name
dress up, black tie if possible. dark ages. Public conveniences and building number. In
are rare, and those that one Budapest the district code is
If invited to the home of a does come across can be very usually added to the city name,
Hungarian, ensure you bring unappealing. Most are free; the using Roman numerals. Floors are
something: flowers or a bottle modern, cubicle-style toilets numbered in accordance with
of good whisky are favourites. now common in parks and UK usage.
public squares are sometimes
In hospitals, it is common coin-operated. Cafés and res- DIRECTORY
practice to tip doctors, nurses taurants usually allow toilet
and domestic staff to make access only to customers; at Tourist Information
things happen just that little service stations and fast-food
bit faster. outlets, there may be a charge Tourinform
if you do not order anything 1052 Deák tér (Sütő utca 2),
Disabled Travellers from the menu. Most railway Budapest. Tel (1) 438 80 80.
stations have toilets, but they ∑ tourinform.hu
Hungary has made giant strides can be unhygienic. ∑ gotohungary.com
towards improving life for its
disabled citizens and visitors, Apart from the generally Travel Safety Advice
a major plus point of the understood picture symbols,
country’s entry into the EU in the toilets are signed in Australia
2004. That said, it can be tough Hungarian: Hölgyek (ladies) Department of Foreign
for all but the very fittest to get and Urak (gentlemen) or Nők Affairs and Trade
on and off some forms of public (women) and Férfiak (men). ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
transport: trains and trams are
especially troublesome. On Electrical and Gas UK
the Budapest Metro, the M4 Appliances Foreign and Commonwealth
line is fully accessible by lifts, Office ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-
while the older lines are only The Hungarian electricity travel-advice
supply is 230 V; the plugs are
the standard continental Europe US
type, with two round pins. US Department of State
Sockets are generally earthed, ∑ travel.state.gov
and the plugs are most com-
monly of the flat type. Adaptors Information for
are widely available. Disabled Visitors

Gas cookers have a bimetallic National Federation of
safety device – after lighting, the Disabled Persons’
knob should be held down until Associations (MEOSZ)
the burner warms up. San Marco utca 76, Budapest.
Tel (1) 388 23 87 or (1) 250 90 13
(international).
∑ meosz.hu

298  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safety and Health

Hungary has a relatively low crime rate, although
pick-pocketing can be a problem on public transport and
in crowded sightseeing areas. The healthcare system is well-
funded, efficient and most emergency treatment is free for
visitors. Visitors are still advised, however, to take out a good
health insurance policy before they depart. Most towns
have modern facilities for the traveller, including good
emergency medical care. The Hungarian National Tourist
Office can help with language problems.

Personal Security accepted, and cash machines Hungarian police officers, on foot patrol
(ATMs) are also widely found, in the streets
Although Hungary is a relatively even in the countryside.
safe place, it is wise to take care.
Popular outdoor events attract Personal Safety
bag-snatchers and pickpockets.
In Budapest and in crowded The Hungarian word for case your embassy or consulate
public areas, visitors should
be particularly careful to keep “police” is rendőrség. Hungarian (see Directory) may be able to
an eye on their property, espe-
cially handbags and cameras. police officers are frequently help out. (Australian visitors
Public transport in Budapest
(especially the buses) is notorious seen patrolling the streets on should note that Australia no
for the gangs of pickpockets that
operate there. motorbikes, on foot or in cars. longer has an embassy in

Visitors should make sure they They may also be seen on Budapest; the nearest is in
lock valuables and personal
documents in a hotel safe. It is horseback. Even the smallest Vienna.) Visitors who are
equally important not to leave
valuables in a car. Ideally, a village has its own arrested, for whatever
hotel’s car parking facilities
should be used (parking space police station. In the reason, should try
may be available at a small
supplement – it is worth it). event of any loss or to contact their
There is no need to carry
large amounts of cash around, theft of property, embassy and con-
because most credit and
debit cards are widely a report should be sular representative

Ambulance made immediately immediately.

Police car to the police, as a Random ID checks

number will be are rare, but visitors

required for any insur- Fire department sign and locals alike are

ance claim. This, however, required to have some

is easier said than done, as form of identification with them

some police stations may not at all times.

have anyone around who speaks CCTV is now common in

the relevant language. In this Hungary’s cities and towns,

and has been installed on the

Budapest Metro, on some

buses, in department stores

and in shopping centres.

Hungary also has one of the

most modern speed-camera

systems in Europe, and speed-

ing, along with other traffic

offences that these cameras

can record, attracts heavy fines,

even imprisonment in extreme

cases (see also Travelling by Car,

pp308–9). Drink-driving is strictly

forbidden in Hungary – there

is absolutely no permissible

blood alcohol level. Even a first

drink-driving offence can lead

to imprisonment.

The possession of all drugs

is illegal. Prostitution is illegal,

though tolerated in most big

cities if practised discreetly. In

any case, contact with street