EYEWITNESS TRAVEL HUNGARY

CENTRAL PEST  99

4 Pest County Hall In a side street off Váci Street,
at No. 13 Régiposta utca, stands
Pest Megyei Önkormányzat a Modernist-style building.
An unusual sight in Pest, this
Városház utca 7. Map 4 E1. Tel (1) 485 Bauhaus-influenced building
68 00 or 485 68 26. q Ferenciek tere. dates from 1937 and is by
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri. Lajos Kozma.

Built in several stages, this is 6 Inner City Parish
one of Pest’s most beautiful, Church
monumental Neo-Classical civic
buildings. It was erected during Belvárosi Plébánia templom
the 19th century, as part of the
plan for the city drawn up by the Március 15 tér 2. Map 4 D1. Tel (1) 318
Embellishment Commission. 31 08. q Ferenciek tere. Open 9am–
6pm daily.
A seat of the Council of
Pest has existed on this site Thonet House, with Zsolnay tile decoration, The oldest building in Pest, this
since the late 17th century. By
1811, the building comprised at No. 11 Váci Street church was first established during
two conference halls, a prison
and a prison chapel. Between the reign of St István, on the burial
1829 and 1832, a wing designed
by József Hofrichter was added 20th centuries. More recently, site of the martyred St Gellért. In
on Semmelweis utca.
however, modern department the 12th century it was replaced
In another development
phase, in 1838–42, Mátyás stores, banks and shopping by a Romanesque church, of
Zitterbarth Jr completed the
impressive façade, which over- arcades have sprung up along which a wall fragment remains in
looks Városház utca. It features
a portico with six Corinthian the street among the older the façade of the South Tower.
columns that support a
prominent tympanum. original buildings. In the 14th century it became

County Hall was rebuilt and Philantia, a a large Gothic
enlarged after destruction
during World War II. Three Secession-style construction, and
internal courtyards were added.
The first of these is surrounded florist’s shop opened subsequently a
by cloisters; summer concerts
are often held here. in 1905, now mosque. Damaged by

In the small adjoining street, occupies part of the the Great Fire of 1723,
Kamermayer Károly tér, stands
an aluminium monument, Neo-Classical block the church was partly
designed in 1942 by Béla
Szabados, to Budapest’s first at No. 9, built in 1840 rebuilt in the Baroque
mayor, Károly Kamermayer
(1829–97), who took office in by József Hild. No. 9 style by György Paur
1873 after the unification of
Óbuda, Buda and Pest. also houses the Pest in 1725–39. The interior

5 Váci Street Theatre, where classic Crest of Pest in Inner City also contains Neo-

Váci utca plays by Anton Parish Church Classical elements by

Map 4 D1–E2. q Ferenciek tere. Chekhov, among János Hild, as well as

Once two separate streets, which others, are staged. The building 20th-century works. The main altar
were joined at the beginning of
the 18th century, the two ends was once occupied by the “Inn (1948) is one such piece, replacing
of Váci Street still have distinct
characters, the northern end of the Seven Electors”, which the original. It was painted by
being perhaps the more
elegant. The whole street is had a large ballroom and Károly Antal and Pál Molnár.
pedestrianized, making this
a popular visitor destination for concert hall. It was here that a The church is open, although
shopping and strolling. Most of
the buildings lining the street 12-year-old Ferenc (Franz) Liszt ongoing renovations may
date from the 19th and early
performed in 1823. affect visitors.

Thonet House, at No. 11, is

most notable for the Zsolnay

tiles from Pécs that adorn its

façade. No. 13 is the oldest

building on Váci Street and

was built in 1805. In contrast,

the Post-Modern Fontana

department store at No. 16 was

built in 1984. Outside there is a

bronze fountain with a figure of

the Greek god Hermes, dating

from the mid-19th century.

The Nádor Hotel once stood

at No. 20 and featured a statue

of Archduke Palatine József in

front of the entrance. Today

the Taverna Hotel, designed

by József Finta and opened

in 1987, stands here. It has a The Baroque nave of the Inner City Parish

popular coffee shop. Church, dating from the 1730s

100  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

7 Klotild Palaces exterior features a tympanum
and a row of pilasters that
Klotild paloták divide the façade. Figures of
St Paul and St Anthony flank
Szabadsajtó út. Map 4 D1. the emblem of the Pauline
q Ferenciek tere. order, which crowns the
exterior. The carved-wood
On either side of Szabadsajtó A detail from the decorative façade of interior of the main vestibule
utca, on the approach to the the City Council Chamber is also worth seeing.
Elizabeth Bridge, stand two
massive apartment blocks built Neo-Renaissance design in Inside the church a row of
in 1902. The buildings were brick, with grotesques between side chapels stand behind
commissioned by the daughter- the windows, while the interior unusual marble pilasters. In
in-law of Emperor Franz Joseph, features cast-iron Neo-Gothic 1776 Johann Bergl painted the
Archduchess Klotild. motifs. The Great Debating Hall vaulted ceiling with frescoes
is decorated with mosaics depicting scenes from the life
The palaces were designed designed by Károly Lotz. of Mary. Sadly, these frescoes
by Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl are now in poor condition.
in the Historicist style, with Fashionable bars, restaurants The main altar dates from
elements of Rococo decoration. and cafés, all assembled along 1746, and the carved statues
Once they comprised entirely a pedestrianized road, make behind it are the work of
rented apartments; now only the area around the Council József Hebenstreit. Above it
the upper floors remain in Chamber a charming part of is a copy of the painting The
residential use. The ground floor the city. There are some Black Madonna of Czestochowa,
is occupied by shops, a café and antiquarian bookshops and which is thought to date from
the Budapest Gallery; the right galleries located here, as well 1720. Much of the Baroque
wing of the palace houses the as fashion boutiques, and interior is the work of the
Buddha-Bar Hotel. high-end designer shops. Pauline monks; for example
the balustrade of the organ
loft, the confessionals and the
carved pulpit on the right.

The church – which is the
property of Budapest
University’s Law Faculty –
today often hosts concerts
of choral and classical music,
to raise funds for a massive
programme of renovation.

One of the twin Klotild Palaces, by the 9 University Magnificent sculptures decorating the
approach to Elizabeth Bridge Church pulpit in the University Church

8 City Council Egyetemi templom
Chamber
Papnövelde utca 5–7. Map 4 E1/2.
Új Városháza Tel (1) 318 05 55. q Kálvin tér.
Open 7am–7pm daily.
Váci utca 62–64. Map 4 E2.
Tel (1) 235 17 00. q Deák tér. 8 This single-aisle church is
considered one of the most
This three-storey edifice was impressive Baroque churches
built between 1870 and 1875 in the city. It was built for
as offices for the newly the Pauline order between
unified city of Budapest. Its 1725 and 1742, and was
architect, Imre Steindl, was probably designed by András
also responsible for designing Mayerhoffer. The tower was
the Parliament (see pp84–5). added in 1771. The Pauline
order, founded in 1263 by
The building displays a mix Canon Euzebiusz, was the only
of styles. The exterior is a religious order to be founded
in Hungary. The magnificent

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CENTRAL PEST  101

q Museum of
Applied Arts

Iparművészeti Múzeum

Űllői út 33–37. Map 4 F2. Tel (1) 456
51 07. q Ferenc körút. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & = -
∑ imm.hu

The Museum of Applied

Arts was opened in 1896 by

Emperor Franz Joseph as part

of the Millennium Celebrations

(see p108). The collection is

housed not within a Neo-

Classical building, but within an

Spiral staircase in one of the rooms of the outstanding Secession building
Ervin Szabó Library
designed by Gyula Pártos and A 17th-century dress in the Museum
0 Metropolitan
Ervin Szabó Library Ödön Lechner. The exterior of Applied Arts

Fövárosi Szabó Ervin Könyvtár incorporated elements inspired

Reviczky utca 1. Map 4 F2. Tel (1) 411 by the Orient as well as the bentwood furniture. The fine
50 00. q Kálvin tér. Open 10am–8pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. Zsolnay ceramics characteristic metalwork collection comprises

In 1887, the wealthy indus- of Lechner’s work. Damaged watches, jewellery and other
trialist Wenckheim family
commissioned the architect in 1945 and again in 1956, the items made by foreign and
Artur Meining to build a palace
in the Neo-Baroque and building has been restored to Hungarian craftsmen. The
Rococo style. The result was
Wenckheim Palace, regarded its original magnificence. extensive ceramics and
as one of the most beautiful
palaces in Budapest. The building is set glassware collection

In 1926, the city council around a glorious, contains early Haban
acquired the palace and con-
verted it into a public lending arcaded courtyard, ware, Bohemian glass,
library, which focuses on the
city itself and social sciences. surrounded by as well as glassmaking

It was named after the cloisters and in Hungary. In the
politician and social reformer
Ervin Szabó (1877–1918), designed in an textiles section,
who was the library’s first
director. The library has over Indian-Oriental superb European
100 branches throughout
Budapest and houses some style. The museum, silks, including many
three million books.
established in 1872, from the 13th and
Beautifully renovated, the
library boasts one of the most comprises many 14th centuries, can
elegant reading rooms any-
where. It features glorious superb examples of arts Amphitrite and be seen. It also
stucco decoration with gold and crafts workmanship. triton pendant traces the history of
tracery, enormous chandeliers Hungarian lacemaking.
and finely worked wooden Among the museum’s
staircases. Also worth particular
attention are the richly gilded permanent collections is The museum holds regular
salons on the first floor and the
dome above an oval panel of furniture from the 14th to the temporary exhibitions. The
reliefs. Outside, the magnificent
wrought-iron gates, dating 20th centuries, including first-floor library, also dating
from 1897, are the work of
Gyula Jungfer. the furnishings of entire from 1872, contains around

historic buildings in Hungary, 50,000 books, making it one

fine French pieces and Thonet of the largest in Hungary.

The Oriental-style inner courtyard of the Museum of Applied Arts

102  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

w Hungarian National Museum

The Hungarian National Museum is the Placing the Cornerstone (1864)
country’s richest resource of art and artifacts This painting by Miklós Barabás shows
relating to its own turbulent history. Founded the ceremony that marked the
in 1802, the museum owes its existence to beginning of construction of the
Count Ferenc Széchényi, who bequeathed Chain Bridge in 1842.
his collection of coins, books and documents
to the nation. The museum’s constantly
expanding collection of art and documents
is exhibited in an impressive Neo-Classical
edifice built by Mihály Pollack.

Silk Corset of
Queen Elisabeth
This black silk corset was worn by
Queen Elisabeth of Hungary and still
bears the mark of the stab wound that
killed her in Geneva on 10 September 1898.

First floor

. Funeral Crown
This magnificent 13th-century
golden crown was found in the
ruins of the Dominican Church
and Convent on Margaret Island
in the Danube (see pp112–13).

. Coronation Mantle Main
This textile masterpiece, made entrance
of Byzantine silk, was donated
to the church in Székesfehérvár
by St István in 1031. It became
the Coronation Mantle in the
12th century.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

Right Hand of Stalin CENTRAL PEST  103
This hand is all that remains of the 8-m-
(26-ft-) high statue of Stalin that stood in VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Városliget in Budapest. A symbol
Practical Information
of the Communist regime, Múzeum körút 14–16. Map 4 E1/
the statue was destroyed F1. Tel (1) 338 21 22 (327 77 73
for guided tours in English).
in the Hungarian Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
Revolution of 1956. 8 - = ∑ mnm.hu
Transport
Second floor v 47, 49. q Kálvin tér, Astoria.
@ 9, 15.

Pelisse
This short jacket, dating
from around 1620, is
typical of Hungarian
national costume. It
belonged to Gábor
Bethlen, a prince
of Transylvania.

Gothic Well
These reconstructed fragments are

part of a well from the Royal
Palace at Visegrád. The well dates
from the 14th-century rule of the

Angevin dynasty.

Museum Guide
On the first floor is the Coronation
Mantle and the archaeological
exhibition. Second-floor exhibits
comprise Hungarian artifacts from the
11th to the 20th centuries. The lapidaries are
on the ground floor and in the basement.

. Golden Stag Key
This hand-forged Iron
Coronation Mantle
Age figure dates from Archaeological exhibition
the 6th century BC. 11th- to 17th-century exhibition
It was originally 18th- to 19th-century exhibition
part of a Scythian 20th-century exhibition
prince’s shield.

104  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

e Great Synagogue A large rose window is A Hebrew inscription
flanked by two richly from the Second Book of
Zsinagóga decorated towers crowned
by distinctive onion domes. Moses is situated under
Dohány utca 2. Map 4 E1. Tel (1) 462 the rose window.
04 77. q Astoria. v 74. Jewish The façade has white
Museum: Open 10am–6pm Sun–Thu and red bricks and Rome to the present day, has
(to 8pm May–Sep; to 4pm Nov–Feb); intricately designed been assembled. It includes the
10am–4pm Fri (to 2pm Oct–Feb). ceramic friezes. book of Chevra Kadisha from
&8 1792. There is also a haunting
Feszl. In 1931, a museum Holocaust Memorial Room.
The Great Synagogue is the was established, and a vast
largest in Europe. Built in a collection of historical relics,
Byzantine-Moorish style by Judaic devotional items and
the Viennese architect Ludwig everyday objects, from ancient
Förster in 1854–9, it has three
naves and, according to
orthodox tradition, separate
galleries for women. Together
the naves and galleries can
accommodate up to 3,000
worshippers. Some features,
such as the position of the
reading platform, reflect
elements of Judaic reform. The
interior has valuable decorative
fittings, particularly those on
the Ark of the Law, by Frigyes

r Jewish Quarter Holocaust Memorial

Zsidó Negyed Imre Varga’s weeping willow sculpture was unveiled in 1991 in the
rear courtyard of the Synagogue, in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian
Király utca, Rumbach Sebestyén Jews killed by the Nazis in World War II. It was part funded by
utca, Dohány utca & Akácfa utca. the late US-Hungarian actor Tony Curtis.
Map 2 E5 & 2 F5. q Deák Ferenc
tér, Astoria.

Jews first came to Hungary in Hungary’s regent, Miklós Horthy, Synagogue on Rumbach utca
the 13th century and settled and the wearing of the Star of commemorates the thousands
in Buda and Óbuda. In the David was made compulsory. of Jews sent from Budapest.
19th century, a larger Jewish In 1944, a ghetto was created in
community was established the area around the Great In the late 19th century,
outside the Pest city boundary, Synagogue and the deportation three synagogues were built
in a small area of Erzsébetváros. of thousands of Jews to camps, and many Jewish shops and
including Auschwitz, was workshops were established.
In 1251, King Béla IV gave the implemented. After heavy Kosher businesses, such as
Jews of Buda certain priviliges, fighting between the Russian the Hanna Étterem in the
including freedom of religion. and German armies, the Soviet courtyard of the Orthodox
The Jewish community became Red Army liberated the ghetto Synagogue, and the butcher
well integrated into Hungarian on 18 January 1945. In total, at No. 41 Kazinczy utca, were
society until, in 1941, a series of 600,000 Hungarian Jews were a common feature. Shops,
anti-Semitic laws was passed by victims of the Holocaust. galleries and cafés are now
A plaque on the Orthodox springing up, attracting young
Detail of the Orthodox Synagogue, locals and tourists.
built in Byzantine-Moorish style

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CENTRAL PEST  105

u New Theatre

Új Színház

Paulay Ede utca 35. Map 2 E5.
Tel (1) 269 60 21. q Opera.

Originally completed in 1909,
this building has undergone
many transformations. It was
designed by Béla Lajta in
the Secession style, and,
as the home of the cabaret
troupe Parisian Mulató,
became a shrine to frivolity.

In 1921 the building was
completely restyled by
László Vágó, who turned it
into a theatre. After World
War II, the theatre gained a
glass-and-steel façade, and
a children’s theatre company
was based here.

Between 1988 and 1990 the
building was returned to its
original form, using Lajta’s plans.
Gilding, stained glass and marble
once more adorn this unusual
building. Today, Hungary’s New
Theatre is in residence here.

The Liszt Academy’s Grand Hall, with gilding restored to its 1907 magnificence i House of Terror
Museum
t New York Palace y Liszt Academy
of Music Terror Háza Múzeum
New York palota Andrássy út 60. Map 2 F4. Tel (1) 374
Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadémia 26 00. q Vörösmarty utca. v 4, 6 to
Erzsébet körút 9–11. Map 2 F5. Oktogon. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Tel (1) 886 61 11. q Blaha Lujza tér. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 F4. & ∑ terrorhaza.hu
v 4, 6.∑ budapest.boscolo Tel (1) 321 06 90. v 4, 6 to Király
hotels.com utca. 8 by prior arrangement. The museum records in graphic
∑ lisztacademy.hu detail the grim events that took
Built in 1891–5 to a design by place here from 1936 – when
the architect Alajos Hauszmann, The Academy is housed in a the Arrow Cross (the Hungarian
the New York Palace was once the late Historicist palace, built in Nazi Party) took over the
offices of an American insurance 1904–7 by Kálmán Giergl and building as its headquarters –
firm. Today it is a luxurious 5-star Flóris Korb. Above the main until 1956, when it was
hotel. The building displays an entrance there is a statue of turned into a club for Young
eclectic mix of Neo-Baroque and Ferenc (Franz) Liszt, by Alajos Communists. Set over three
Secession motifs. The decorative Stróbl. The six bas-reliefs above floors, the most chilling part of
sculptures that animate the façade its base are by Ede Telcs, and the museum is the basement,
are the work of Károly Senyei. depict the history of music. where the various types of
prison cell have been recreated.
On the ground floor is the Restoration has recreated
renowned New York Café. Its the Secessionist interior in The House of Terror Museum, documenting
walls are adorned with paintings all its original splendour, tragic 20th-century events
by Gusztáv Mannheimer and while also outfitting the
Károly Lotz. The beautiful, richly performance spaces with
gilded Neo-Baroque interior, 21st-century technology.
with its grand chandeliers and The jewel is the ornate
marble pillars, was once the Grand Hall, a world-famous
favourite haunt of literary and concert venue – not only
artistic circles, though today it for its beauty, but also because
tends to attract mainly tourists. of its superb acoustics.



BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  107

FURTHER AFIELD

Many of Budapest’s greatest treasures are out out. North of Buda are the extensive ruins of
of the city centre. The city’s Art Nouveau zoo the Roman city of Aquincum, founded around
is found in the beautiful Városliget City Park. AD 100. To the west of the city, the beautiful
The vast Heroes’ Square opposite has two Eagle Hill nature reserve and, further out, the
outstanding art collections: the Museum of wooded Buda Hills attract nature-lovers. Out
Fine Arts and the Műcsarnok Palace of Art. to the east of Pest, the Jewish Cemetery is a
East of here a new museum honours the reminder of the vibrant Jewish community in
victims of Hungary’s Holocaust, while to the prewar Hungary, and the Memento Park to
west Margaret Island makes for a tranquil day the south is a surreal relic from Soviet days.

Sights at a Glance Churches Key
1 St Anne’s Church
Museums Motorway
Parks and Recreation Areas Main road
2 Museum of Fine Arts 4 Városliget Other road
3 Műcsarnok Palace of Art 7 Margaret Island (pp112–3) Railway
8 Aquincum w Eagle Hill Nature Reserve
0 Budapest Holocaust Memorial e Buda Hills

Centre Cemeteries
q Palace of Arts 9 Jewish Cemetery

Historic Buildings
and Monuments

5 Vajdahunyad Castle
6 Széchenyi Baths
r Memento Park (pp116–7)

0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3

Foga Esztergom Vác M3 Hatvan
11Óbuda Újpest

Danube (Duna) M3 M0 Gödöllõ
2 Újpalota Árpádföld

Angyalföld

Zugliget Nyugati pu. M5ZuglóSashalom
skerekû 3 Mátyásföld
510Keleti pu.
Déli-pu. RáckeveiJózsefvárosi Rákos-patak
10 pu. 31

Sasad 4 Óhegy Jászberény
Kelenföld
Budaörs
1 Albertfalva

Gyõr M7 4

7 Budafok Kispest Budapest
Danube (Duna) Pesterzsébet Ferenc Liszt

Csepel Airport

Budatétény 6 Pestszentimre Cegléd
Pécs
M0

Kecskemét

Turtles basking in the Japanese Garden on peaceful Margaret Island For keys to map symbols see back flap

108  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Heroes’ Square

Heroes’ Square is a relic of a proud era in 2 . Museum of Fine Arts
Hungary’s history – it was here that the This monumental museum building has
Millennium Celebrations opened in 1896. A an eight-pillared portico supporting
striking example of this national pride is the a tympanum.
Millennium Monument. Its colonnades feature
statues of renowned Hungarian leaders and
politicians, and the grand central column is
crowned by a figure of the Archangel Gabriel.
Vajdahunyad Castle was built in Városliget, or
City Park, adjacent to the square. Probably the
most flamboyant expression of the celebrations,
it is composed of elements of the finest archi-
tectural works found throughout Hungary.

Entrance to
the zoo

Millennium Monument
Dominating Heroes’ Square, this chariot is
one of a pair of monuments symbolizing
“War” and “Peace”, by György Zala.

3 Műcsarnok
Palace of Art
The crest of Hungary
decorates the façade
of this building – the
country’s largest venue
for artistic exhibitions.

The Hungarian Millennium Archangel Secession
Celebrations Gabriel pavillon

The Millennium Celebrations in 1896 marked a high Key
point in the development of Budapest and in the Suggested route
history of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. The city
underwent modernization on a scale unknown in
Europe at that time. Hundreds of houses, palaces and
civic buildings were constructed, gas lighting was
introduced and continental Europe’s first
underground transport system was opened.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

6 . Széchenyi Baths FURTHER AFIELD  109
This is the largest complex of spa
Ják Chapel
baths in Europe. Its hot springs, This chapel faithfully
discovered in 1876, bubble up reproduces the portal of a
from a depth of 970 m (3,180 ft) Benedictine church, dating
from 1214, which
and are reputed to have can be found in the
considerable healing properties. area of Ják (see
p166), near the
4 Városliget border with
Austria. It is
part of the
Vajdahunyad
Castle complex.

0 metres 200 Statue of Anonymus
0 yards 200 Completed in 1903 by Miklós Ligeti,

this is one of Budapest’s most
famous monuments.

5 . Vajdahunyad Castle
This Baroque section of the
castle houses the Museum
of Agriculture.

110  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

1 St Anne’s Church

Szent Anna templom

Batthyány tér 7. Map 1 B4. Tel (1) 201
34 04. q Batthyány tér. Open Only
for services. 5 daily. Angelika Café:
Open 9am–12pm daily.

Budapest is home to many A magnificently decorated ceiling at the Museum of Fine Arts
churches, but the twin-towered
Baroque parish church of the enriched by donations and 3 Műcsarnok
Víziváros district is one of acquisitions, and in 1906 it Palace of Art
the finest. Begun in 1740 by Kristóf moved to its present location,
Hamon and completed after his a stunning Neo-Classical Műcsarnok
death by Mátyás Nepauer, it was
seriously damaged by an earth- building with Italian Renais- Dózsa György út 37. Tel (1) 460 70 00.
quake in 1763. The dissolution
of the Jesuit order – which had sance influences designed q Hősök tere. Open 10am–6pm
commissioned it – further
delayed completion. It remained by Fülöp Herzog and Albert Tue–Sun, noon–8pm Thu. & 7 8
unconsecrated until 1805.
Schickedanz. The tympanum ∑ mucsarnok.hu
The church’s façade features
Buda’s coat of arms on the crowning the portico is
tympanum, set between
the magnificent Baroque supported by eight Corinthian Situated on the southern side
spires. Inside, the High Altar
(1773) depicts Mary as a child columns. It depicts the Battle of Heroes’ Square, opposite
with St Anne, her mother.
of the Centaurs and Lapiths, the Museum of Fine Arts, is
High Altar in St Anne’s Church, one of
Károly Bebo’s finest works and is copied from the Temple Műcsarnok (Kunsthalle), the

2 Museum of of Zeus at Olympia, Greece. largest exhibition space in all of
Fine Arts
The museum’s collection Hungary. Temporary exhibitions
Szépművészeti Múzeum
Dózsa György út 41. Tel (1) 469 71 00. encompasses a wide range of of mainly contemporary painting
q Hősök tere. v 75, 79. @ 4, 20, 30,
105. Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. art from antiquity to the 20th and sculpture are held here.
& 7 8 = ∑ szepmuveszeti.hu
century. Among the exhibition Designed by Albert
The origins of the Museum
of Fine Arts’ comprehensive of Egyptian artifacts, most of Schickedanz and Fülöp
collection date from 1870, when
the state bought a magnificent which were unearthed by Herzog in 1895, the
collection of paintings from the
aristocratic Esterházy family. Hungarian archaeologists imposing Neo-Classical
The museum’s collection was
during 19th-century building is fronted by

excavations, the a vast six-columned

collection of bronze portico. The mosaic,

figures from the New depicting St István as

Kingdom of Ptolemy is the patron saint of fine

the most fascinating. The art, was added to the

collection of Greek vases tympanum in 1938–41.

is the highlight of the Behind the portico is

classical artifacts, along Grimani jug, a fresco by Lajos Deák-

with the famous Grimani Museum of Fine Arts Ébner in three parts

jug, which dates from entitled The Beginning

the 5th century BC. of Sculpture, The Source of Arts

A small bronze figure by and The Origins of Painting.

Leonardo da Vinci is the

highlight of the sculpture gallery, 4 Városliget
while the rich collection of
Dutch and Flemish art features Városliget

the sublime St John the Baptist’s Városliget. q Hősök tere,
Sermon, painted by Pieter
Széchenyi fürdő.

Bruegel the Elder in 1566. Other

collections of note include Városliget, or City Park, was

Italian and Spanish art with once an area of marshland

works by Raphael, El Greco and used as a royal hunting ground.

Goya, drawings and graphics Drained and planted during

with items by Dürer, and 1 the reign of Maria Theresa, the

9th- and 20th-century works park was designed and laid out

by Pablo Picasso as well as gems in the English style in the late

from the French Impressionists. 19th century.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

FURTHER AFIELD  111

City Park was the centre for the One of the outdoor pools at the beautiful Széchenyi Baths
1896 Millennium Celebrations
(see p108), when the Museum The pavilions are grouped cattle-breeding, wine making,
of Fine Arts, Vajdahunyad chronologically by style, with hunting and fishing.
Castle and the Heroes’ Square individual styles linked together
Monument were built. to give the impression of a 6 Széchenyi Baths
single, cohesive design. Each
Today, attractions include a of the pavilions uses authentic Széchenyi Strandfürdő
lake – an ice rink in winter and details copied from Hungary’s
a boating lake in summer – most important historic build- Állatkerti körút 11. v 72. Tel (1) 363
overlooked by a Secession ings or is a looser interpretation 32 10. q Széchenyi fürdő. Swimming
Pavilion. The park is also home of a style inspired by a specific pool: Open 6am–10pm daily; Thermal
to the Széchenyi Baths, Buda- architect of that period. The pool: Open 6am–7pm daily. &
pest’s zoo and Gundel Restau- complex reflects more than ∑ spasbudapest.hu
rant, which opened in 1910 and 20 of Hungary’s most renowned
where the Gundel palacsinta, a buildings. The medieval period, A statue stands at the main
pancake, was invented. often considered a glorious time entrance to the Széchenyi
in Hungary’s history, is emph- Baths, depicting geologist
5 Vajdahunyad asized, while the controversial Vilmos Zsigmondy, who
Castle Habsburg era is not. discovered a hot spring here
while drilling a well in 1879.
Vajdahunyadvár The Romanesque complex
features a copy of the portal The Széchenyi Baths are
Városliget. Tel (1) 363 19 73. q from a church in Ják (see p109) among the deepest and hottest
Széchenyi fürdő. v 70, 72, 75, 79. as well as a monastic cloister in Budapest – the water reaches
@ 4, 20, 30. Museum of Agriculture: and palace. The details on the surface at a temperature
Tel (1) 363 11 17. Open Mid-Mar– the Gothic pavilion are taken of 74–5° C (165° F). The springs,
mid-Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; mid- from castles such as that in rich in minerals, are known for
Oct–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, Segesvár (now in Romania). their alleged healing properties
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 8 The architect Fischer von Erlach and are recommended for
∑ mmgm.hu inspired the Renaissance and treating rheumatism and
Baroque complex. The façade disorders of the nervous system,
This fairytale-like building is copies part of the Bakócz joints and muscles. The spa,
located among the trees at the chapel in the Esztergom housed in a Neo-Baroque
edge of the lake in Városliget. cathedral (see pp148–9). building by Gyõzõ Czigler and
Not a genuine castle but a Ede Dvorzsák, was constructed
complex of buildings reflecting The Museum of Agriculture, in 1909–13. In 1926, three
various architectural styles, it in the Baroque section, has open-air swimming pools
was designed by Ignác Alpár were added. These are popular
for the 1896 Millennium interesting exhibits on all year round due to their high
Celebrations (see p108). water temperatures.

Alpár’s creation illustrated
the history of architecture in
Hungary. Originally intended
as temporary exhibition
pavilions, the castle proved
so popular with the public
that, between 1904 and
1906, it was rebuilt
using brick to create a
permanent structure.

View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of Vajdahunyad Castle

112  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA Palatinus Strand
Opened in 1919, this is the largest
7 Margaret Island
outdoor swimming pool in
Inhabited as far back as Roman times, Margaret Island Budapest. Its lush, grassy
(Margitsziget) is a car-free, tranquil oasis in the middle sunbathing areas and
of the Danube, a beautiful green space that has been
open to the public since 1869. The 3-km (2-mile) long playgrounds make it especially
island served as a popular hunting ground for medi- popular with families.
eval kings, while monks were drawn to its peaceful
setting. During Turkish rule it was used as a harem.
In the 1200s Princess Margaret, daughter of Béla IV,
spent most of her life as a recluse in the former
convent here, and the island is named after her.
Today Margaret Island still offers the perfect
escape after sightseeing in the busy city.

Franciscan Church
Little remains of this early
14th-century church, which was
abandoned in the 16th century.
Yet the ruins, which include a
glorious arched window and
staircase, hint at its former size.

Margaret Island’s
Bicycles
There is no better
way to explore the
car-free island
than hiring one
of these family-
sized bicycles.

KEY . Centenary Monument
This monument was
1 Margit Bridge erected in 1973 to
2 Music fountain celebrate a century of
3 Hajós Olympic Pool Complex united Budapest, the cities
4 Margitsziget Small Zoo of Buda, Pest and Óbuda
5 St Michael’s Church having merged in 1873. It
6 Árpád Bridge was designed by István Kiss.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

FURTHER AFIELD  113

. Japanese Garden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of three landscaped
parks on Margaret Island, Practical Information
the Japanese Garden features Margitsziget, Budapest.
a wide range of flora as well Map 2 D1. Danubius Grand Hotel
as ponds and waterfalls, rock Margitsziget: Tel (1) 889 47 00.
gardens and playgrounds. Palatinus Strand Baths: Tel (820)
212 98 73. Open May–Aug:
9am–7pm; Sep: 10am–6pm. &

Transport
v 4, 6. @ 26 from Nyugati
Station.

Bodor Well
This musical well, built in

1936, is a copy of the
original which stood in

Târgu Mureş (today
in Romania). On the hour,

it plays gentle music.

0 metres 150
0 yards 150

Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget
This plush hotel, built in Neo-Renaissance style to designs
by Miklós Ybl, was opened in 1873. For almost four decades
it was the most fashionable hotel in the city, attracting
aristocracy from all over Europe.

Princess Margit

King Béla IV (see p40) swore that if he succeeded in repelling the

Mongol invasion of 1241, he would offer his daughter to God.

He kept his oath, sending his nine-year-old

daughter Margit (Margaret) to the St Michael’s

Church and convent, which he built on the

island. She led a pious and ascetic life, and

at the age of 29 died on the island, which

today carries her name.

. Water Tower The ruin of the 13th-century convent in
This unique 57-m (187-ft)
tower was built in 1911 to which Margit spent 20 years of her life is
provide clean water for the
island’s hotel. Protected by probably the most important monument
UNESCO, it offers great views
from its Lookout Gallery. on the island. A marble plaque in the St Margit – stained-glass
nave of the convent church ruins marks window, Gellért Hotel
the spot where she is buried.

114  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

The excavations of the Roman town Aquincum and the museum community. At the end of
the 19th century, nearly a
8 Aquincum drainage system. The sanctuaries quarter of the city’s inhabitants
of the goddesses Epona and were Jewish. Tombs to look
Aquincum Fortuna can also be seen. out for as you stroll among
the graves include that of the
Szentendrei út 135. Tel (81) 430 10 81. On the other side of the hév Wellisch family, designed in
£ Aquincum. @ 34, 42, 106. railway line, the remains of an 1903 by Arthur Wellisch, and
Archeological park: Open Apr–Oct: amphitheatre are visible, where that of Konrád Polnay, which
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: subject the town’s inhabitants once was designed five years later
to weather. Exhibitions: Open Apr– sought entertainment. by Gyula Fodor. Perhaps the
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: most eyecatching of all tombs
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 9 Jewish Cemetery belongs to the Schmidl family.
∑ aquincum.hu The startlingly flamboyant
Zsidó temető edifice, designed in 1903
The remains of the Roman town Kozma utca 6. @ 37. by Hungary’s prominent
of Aquincum were excavated Next door to the Municipal architects Ödön Lechner and
at the end of the 19th century. Cemetery is the Jewish Béla Lajta, is covered in vivid
Visitors today are free to stroll Cemetery, opened in 1893. turquoise ceramic tiles. The
along its streets, viewing the The many grand tombs here central mosaic in green and
outlines of temples, baths, are a vivid reminder of the gold tiles represents the
shops and houses, in what was vigour and Tree of Life.
once the centre of the town. success of
Budapest’s 0 Budapest
The civilian town of Aquincum, prewar Holocaust
capital of the Roman province Jewish Memorial Centre
of Pannonia Inferior, was founded
at the beginning of the 2nd Schmidl family tomb at the Jewish Cemetery Holokauszt Emlékközpont
century AD, a couple of decades
after a legionary fortress had Páva utca 39. Tel (1) 455 33 33.
been established to its south. q Ferenc körút. @ 4, 6, 30, 30A.
For centuries, it was the largest Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
city in central Europe. ∑ hdke.hu

In the centre of the site a This outstanding memorial
museum is housed in a Neo- centre is dedicated to the tens
Classical lapidarium displaying of thousands of Hungarians
the most valuable Roman deported from the Budapest
archaeological finds from the Ghetto to Auschwitz in the
area. The items on display latter stages of World War II.
include weapons and various Housed in a former synagogue,
inscribed stone monuments. the exhibition tells of the fate
suffered by Hungarian Jews,
Only a fraction of the former Gypsies and other victims.
town is open to visitors today, but
it is nonetheless impressive with The most moving part of
its remarkable central heating the memorial is the former
system based on hot air circu-
lated under mosaic floors. A drain main prayer hall, given over
cover is evidence that there to the photos of members
was a good water supply and of the congregation who
once worshipped here.
The 8-m- (24-ft-) high
glass wall around the
centre, designed by
László Zsótér, is
inscribed with the
names of all Hun-
garians known to
have died in the
Shoah. It allows
new names to be
added; the goal is
one day to have a
complete list of all
who perished in
the Holocaust.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

FURTHER AFIELD  115

e Buda Hills

Budai-hegység

q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56, then
cog-wheel railway and chair lift.

Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue To the west of the city centre
are the wooded Buda Hills.
q Palace of Arts fence of the wild and craggy There are many caves here,
(MÜPA) 300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve including Szemlőhegyi and
that it encloses. It is worth taking Pálvölgyi-barlang.
Művészetek Palotája the guided walk in the reserve,
particularly in spring or early The first station of a
Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24. autumn. This is one of the only cog- wheel railway, built in
Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555 places to see the endangered 1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet
33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm Centaurea sadleriana, a flower fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill –
daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of that resembles a cornflower but named after the Germanic
Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44. with a much larger flower head. Swabians, who settled here
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. The reserve is also home to a under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5)
∑ ludwigmuseum.hu blue grass and a spider found – and then Széchenyi Hill.
nowhere else in the world, as
The Palace of Arts, located in the well as extraordinary, colourful From Széchenyi Hill a
Millennium City Centre on the Pest butterflies and a rare lizard. narrow-gauge railway covers
side of the Danube, between a 12-km (7-mile) route to the
Lágymányos Bridge and the Hűvös Valley. As in the days
new National Theatre, brings of the Soviet Young Pioneers
together all the arts under one movement, the railway is staffed
roof. Permanent residents in by children, apart from the adult
the palace include the Ludwig train drivers. At the top of János
Museum of Contemporary Art, Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-
the Béla Bartók National Concert Out Tower, designed by Frigyes
Hall, the Festival Theatre and the Schulek in 1910. A chair lift
National Dance Theatre. connects János Hill with
Zugligeti út and this is a good
way of making the descent.

w Eagle Hill Nature
Reserve

Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület

Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30)
408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm
Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by
arrangement. 8 compulsory.

A nature reserve such as The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills
this that is close to the
centre of a large city is a
remarkable phenomenon.

Access to the summit of
this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-)
high hill to the west of Gellért
Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated
to protect the extremely rare
animal and plant species found
here. A smart residential quarter
of attractive bourgeois villas,
which lies on the lower slope of
Eagle Hill, extends almost to the

116  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

r Memento Park Béla Kun Memorial
Béla Kun was a Hungarian Communist
During Communist rule, Socialist Realism was the artistic who briefly ran the country in 1919
movement, resulting in some of the most striking after leading a Russian-backed
sculpture of the 20th century. While most of the other Communist coup. Kun’s regime was
former Soviet-bloc countries iconoclastically toppled quickly overthrown by nationalist
their Socialist statuary as soon as they had toppled their forces led by Admiral Horthy, however,
Socialist leaders, the more reflective Hungarians decided and Kun fled to Russia.
to preserve these unique public works of art, which until
1989 had stood in the country’s major public squares.
The propagandist statues, some of which were erected
as late as the mid-1980s, are now displayed in this,
Europe’s most unusual theme park of Communism.

Hungarian-Soviet
Friendship Memorial
A Hungarian worker greets a
Red Army officer with a
handshake in this classic
piece of Soviet agitprop.

Karl Marx and Stalin’s
Friedrich Engels tribute
The authors of The
. Main Entrance
Communist Manifesto The monumental main
stand together in a entrance and the austere
large archway. wall that surrounds the
park are designed to
KEY remind visitors of the
1 Souvenir shop restrictive nature of
the Iron Curtain.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

FURTHER AFIELD  117

Captain Steinmetz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In December 1944, the Hungarian-born
Soviet Red Army Captain Miklós Steinmetz Practical Information
delivered the Ultimátum with the proposed Balatoni út & Szabadkai utca,
terms for surrender from the Soviet troops District 22, Budapest. Road
Map D3. Tel (1) 424 75 00.
to the Germans occupying Open Apr–Oct: 10am–dusk
Budapest. He was shot while daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily.
returning to Soviet lines. & = ∑ mementopark.hu

. Hungarian Fighters in the Transport
Spanish International @ 101B, 101E, 150 from Kelenföld
Brigades Memorial Metro station (M4).

This monument honours the
Hungarian contingent of

the many European revolution-
aries who flocked to Spain
to fight there in the
1936–9 Civil War.

Lenin . Workers’ Movement
Vladimir Lenin (1870– Memorial
1924), leader of the 1917 Two monstrously large
Revolution and first head hands are about to clasp
of the Soviet state, points a globe, and with it the
the way to a bright working class of the world.
Socialist future.
The Trabant 601

Few objects symbolise life in socialist Central-Eastern
Europe better than the plastic-bodied Trabant. This
little car, produced in East Germany between 1957–
1990 with almost no change in shape or specifications,
was once a continual presence on the roads of the
socialist block. Although the Trabant was a small,
uncomfortable, slow and fragile car, it was much
loved by those who were finally able to buy one
after spending decades on the waiting lists.

The iconic Trabant car at Memento Park

118  BUDAPEST

SHOPPING IN BUDAPEST

Shopping in Budapest has changed do their shopping. For local goods, a visit
dramatically in recent years. Despite price to one of Budapest’s many markets is
rises since the return to a free-market recommended. These range in style from
economy, many Hungarian goods still stunning 19th-century food halls, such as
represent good value for visitors. the Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok),
Major shopping streets include elegant, to second-hand markets, such as the
pedestrianized Váci Street (see pp96–7), huge and lively Ecseri Flea Market, where
good for folk art, and the less fashionable everything from bric-a-brac to furniture
but better-value Nagykörút, where locals and antiques can be found.

Opening Hours Smoked sausages on display at the Central markets. The three­level Central
Market Hall Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok)
Most shops in Budapest open on Fővám tér is the largest. Here,
9am–5:30pm or 6pm Monday WestEnd City Center, with over more than 180 stalls display
to Friday, and 9am–1pm on 350 stores, near the centre of the a huge range of foods under
Saturday. Department stores city, is worth a visit. Locals tend a gleaming roof of coloured
open at 10am, while green­ to shop at out­of­town malls, Zsolnay tiles. The market opens
grocers, bakeries and super­ where parking is easier, although from 6am to 6pm Monday–
markets are open 7am–8pm. stylish Mammut on Széll Kálmán Friday and 6am to 3pm Saturday.
Indoor markets and depart­ tér is frequented by more Other markets to explore are in
ment stores currently open affluent Buda residents. Fehérvári út and Fény utca.
on Sunday, although a ban on
Sunday opening is a regular Markets Beginning at 156 Nagykőrösi
topic for political debate. Many út in district XIX, tables at the
small shops selling groceries are Markets are an essential part of vast outside Ecseri Flea Market
open 24 hours a day, although life in Budapest. Perhaps the most are covered in Communist
in many districts alcohol can spectacular are the five cavern­ artifacts, second­hand clothes
only be sold until 10pm. ous market halls around the city. and bric­a­brac.
All were built in the late 19th cen­
Department Stores and tury and several are still used as Food and Drink
Shopping Centres
Hungarian paprika, a wide variety
Since the late 1990s, more than of spicy salamis and other fine
20 department buildings and malls foodstuffs, such as goose liver
have opened in Budapest. Origin­ pâté, are widely available in the
ally drawing scepticism, depart­ city’s many lively markets,
ment stores, such as Arena Plaza, supermarkets and smaller deli­
have proved popular with the catessens. Visitors wishing to
Hungarian populace. Providing buy – and sample – Hungary’s
a wealth of well­established regional wines, including the
European and international brands, golden Tokaji, should head for
the shopping centres normally Borház in Pest’s Jókai tér or
sell men’s and women’s clothing, La Boutique des Vins in József
accessories and perfumes. Attila utca, which stock a superb
selection from all over the coun­
try. Hungary’s apricot and plum
liqueurs and brandy (pálinka)
can be purchased at House of
Hungarian Pálinka in Rákóczi út.

A small wine merchant, selling wines from Hungary’s regions Folk Art

Hungarian folk art such as
embroidered peasant blouses
and wooden carvings are still
produced in many rural areas
and sold in the capital. These
can be found at flea markets
around Moszkva tér and
Parliament or the top floor of
the Central Market Hall. If you

SHOPPING IN BUDAPEST  119

are looking for handmade utca and on Váci utca (Váci WestEnd City Center, central Europe’s
items in particular, head for Street, see pp96–7). Moró Antik largest shopping mall
Tekla Folklór. is a tiny shop specializing in
18th-century weapons. The Music
Porcelain and Antiques huge Nagyházi Gallery sells
everything from jewellery to Hungary’s rich musical traditions
Dominated by 18th- and 19th- furniture. Budapest’s flea mar- make for tempting low-priced
century pieces in the Habsburg kets are good places to hunt items to buy. Good-quality CDs
style, the Budapest antiques for collectibles. and music DVDs are mostly now
scene is concentrated in the found in bookshops, both new
Castle District, around Falk Miksa If looking to buy genuine and second-hand, although the
Herend and Zsolnay porcelain, specialist Rózsavölgyi Zene-
Traditional folk costumes, on sale from there are several outlets in műbolt remains, and is great for
a street vendor Budapest. The Hollóházi porce- traditional gypsy and village folk
lain factory also has a shop. music, as well as orchestral
works. The Alexandra Book
Clothes and Shoes House (and its palatial café) is in
Párisi Nagyáruház, once a stylish
Made-to-measure clothes and department store with a
shoes, as well as ready-made wonderful Art Nouveau façade.
designer clothes, offer some of
the best deals to be had in the
capital. Clothes can be made up
by a local designer in a choice
of fabrics – often for a modest
fee. At the top end, Naray
Tamas Atelier is the showcase
for one of Hungary’s most
celebrated designers. Shoe-
makers Vass offer handmade
men’s shoes, but they are
expensive and can take some
time to make.

DIRECTORY

Department Ecseri Flea Market Folk Art Antiques
Stores and Nagykőrösi út 156.
Shopping Centres Tel (1) 282 95 63. Tekla Folklór Moró Antik
Váci utca 58. Map 4 D1. Falk Miksa utca 13. Map 2
Arena Plaza Fehérvári út Market Tel (1) 486 00 58. D3. Tel (1) 311 08 14.
Kerepesi út 9. Fehérvári út 20.
Tel (1) 880 70 10. Porcelain Nagyházi Gallery
∑ arenaplaza.hu Fény utca Market Balaton utca 8. Map 2 D3.
Near Széll Kálmán tér. Herend Shops Tel (1) 475 60 00.
Mammut I–II Mall Map 1 A4. József Nádor tér 11.
Lövőház utca 2–6 & Széll Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 26 22. Clothes and Shoes
Kálmán tér. Map 1 A3. Food and Drink Szentháromság utca 5.
Tel (1) 345 80 20. Map 1 B5. Naray Tamas Atelier
∑ mammut.hu Borház Tel (1) 225 10 50/51. Hajós utca 17. Map 2 E4.
Jókai tér 7. Andrássy út 16. Map 2 E4. Tel (1) 266 24 73.
WestEnd City Center Map 2 E4. Tel (1) 374 00 06.
Váci út 1–3. Tel (1) 353 48 49. Vass Shoes
Map 2 E3. Hollóházi Shop Haris köz 2. Map 4 D1.
Tel (1) 238 77 77. La Boutique des Vins Rákóczi út 31. Tel (1) 318 23 75.
József Attila utca 12. Map 4 E1.
Markets Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 59 19. Tel (1) 413 14 63. Music

Budapest Flea Market House of Hungarian Zsolnay Shop Alexandra Book House
Zichy Mihály utca 14. Pálinka Kecskeméti utca 14. Párisi Nagyáruház ,
Tel (20) 933 39 79. Rákóczi út 17. Map 4 Map 4 E2. Andrássy út 39. Map 2 E4.
E1/2. Tel (1) 338 42 19. Tel (1) 318 26 43. Tel (1) 484 80 00.
Central Market Hall
Vámház körút 1–3 Rózsavölgyi
(Fővám tér). Map 4 E2. Zenemübolt
Tel (1) 366 33 00. Szervita tér 5. Map 4 D1.
Tel (1) 318 35 00.

120  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

ENTERTAINMENT IN
BUDAPEST

Budapest has been known as a city of Between the wars the city was as famous for
entertainment since the late 19th century, its glittering society balls as for its more
when people would travel here from Vienna decadent delights. The half-century of
in search of a good time. Its buzzing Communist rule dampened the revelry, but
nightclubs were frequented for their electric since 1990 the Budapest music scene has
atmosphere and the beautiful girls that flourished and theatres, cabarets, festivals,
danced the spirited csárdás and the cancan. cinemas and discotheques are all buzzing.

Practical Information with Hungarian surtitles.
and Tickets
The large hall of
Two monthly cultural listings
magazines, the Programme and the Liszt Academy of
the Budapest Panorama, contain
information in English. Both are Music (magnificently
free and available in hotels and
tourist information centres. renovated) is the city’s
Pamphlets and bulletins are
often issued for festivals and leading venue for
other special events, and it is
worth keeping an eye out for the classical music. Another
poster pillars throughout the city.
venue for concerts and
Tickets for plays and concerts
can be purchased in advance theatre is the Palace of
from the booking offices, such
as Ticket Express, or the rele­ Arts (MÜPA). Classical
vant venue. The best way of
securing a seat for concerts at concerts may also be
the Liszt Academy of Music
(see p105) or major opera pro­ held in the domed hall August Rock Festival on Óbudai-sziget
ductions is via the Cultur-
Comfort Central Ticket Office. of Parliament (see pp84–

Opera, Classical and 5), where the acoustics are nightly performances (Sundays
Sacred Music
excellent. Other important excepted), check out the well­
The standard of opera in Buda­
pest is very high. The State venues for organ or choral regarded Budapest Jazz Club.
Opera House (see pp92–3) has a
mainly classical repertoire, sung music are Mátyás Church (see For traditional Hungarian

pp66–7), St Stephen’s Basilica music and dance, head to

(see pp90–91) and the Great the Hungarian Heritage

Synagogue (see p104). House, where authentic

Hungarian dance evenings are

Jazz, Traditional held along with lessons for the
Hungarian and Rock Music young and old.

For fans of rock and pop, the

Jazz was very late in reaching biggest event of the year is the

Hungary. The best­known and three­day Sziget Festival in

revered Hungarian jazz band is August on Óbudai­sziget. Big

the Benkó Dixieland Band, names in rock and pop also play

which during spring festivals at the modern Papp László

(see p34) plays in various Budapest SportArena. For

theatres and large halls. For more live rock, try the party

boat A38 and Fat Mo’s, a leg­

endary live music venue.

The main stage at the opulent Opera House, in Budapest Theatre and Cinema

Budapest has many theatres,
which are worth visiting not
only for their great repertoires,
but also because most are
located in beautiful historic
buildings. Cinemas show the
latest films soon after their
world premieres, and most
foreign films in Hungary are
dubbed and subtitled into
Hungarian. Visitors who do not
speak Hungarian should
choose the angol nyelvű
(English soundtrack) version.

ENTERTAINMENT IN BUDAPEST  121

music. A38 also hosts lively the woods in Buda Hills

club nights. Budapest’s and is staffed mostly by

gay scene is legendary. children. The Museum

Action Bar lives up to of Military History

its name, with go-go enthrals older children

dancing and more, with weapons, armour

while Coxx Club is a Sign for Bahnhof and battle scenes.

huge multi-level place music club Most children

that attracts a more enjoy the Zoo, and

mainstream crowd. Budapest’s is one of the largest

Despite strict new gaming in Europe. The Great Capital

laws in Hungary that have Circus is another ideal venue

closed many gambling venues for family entertainment.

and may, eventually, close them

Corvintető nightclub, a lively rooftop all, a few casinos remain open,
venue with great views
largely attracting gamblers from
Nightlife
Europe and the Middle East.
The dynamic Budapest club
scene changes from month Children’s Entertainment Façade of the vast Great Capital
to month, often week to week. Circus building
For a great night with live DJs The Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
head to Corvintető, a roof and the Castle District generally
garden on top of a 1926 are good places to start,
department store. LÄRM is a while a must is the ride up
suberb venue notable for its or down Castle Hill by funicular
top DJs who play cutting-edge railway. The Children’s Railway
(Gyermekvasút) runs through

DIRECTORY

Tickets Jazz, Traditional József Katona Gay Clubs
Hungarian and Theatre
Cultur-Comfort Rock Music Petőfi Sándor utca 6. Action Bar
Central Ticket Office Map 4 D1. Magyar utca 42. Map 4
Paulay Ede utca 46. Map 2 A38 Tel (1) 266 52 00. E1. Tel (1) 266 91 48.
E5. Tel (1) 322 00 00. Petőfi híd Budai hidfő. ∑ action.gay.hu
Tel (1) 464 39 40. ∑ a38.hu Margitsziget Openair
Ticket Express Stage Coxx Club
Andrássy út 18. Map 2 E4. Budapest Jazz Club Margitsziget Island. Dohány utca 38. Map 2
Tel (1) 303 09 99. Hollán Ernõ utca 7. Map 2 Tel (1) 340 41 96. F5. Tel (1) 344 48 84.
∑ tex.hu D2. Tel (1) 798 72 89. ∑ coxx.hu
Nemzeti Theatre
Opera, Classical Fat Mo’s Bajor Gizi Park 1. Children’s
and Sacred Music Nyáry Pál u. 11. Tel (1) 476 68 00. Entertainment
Tel (1) 266 80 27.
Liszt Academy of Casinos Children’s Railway
Music Hungarian Heritage Széchenyi-hegy Station.
Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 House Las Vegas Casino Tel (1) 395 54 20.
F4. Tel (1) 462 46 00. Corvin tér 8, District 1 Roosevelt tér 2. Map 1 C5. ∑ gyermekvasut.hu
(Castle District). Tel (1) 266 20 83.
Mátyás Church Tel (1) 225 60 49. ∑ lasvegascasino.hu Great Capital Circus
Szentháromság tér 2. Állatkerti körút 12/A.
Map 1 B4. Papp László Tropicana Casino Tel (1) 343 83 00.
Tel (1) 355 56 57. Budapest SportArena Vigadó utca 2. Map 4 D1. ∑ fnc.hu
Jfjúság utca 4. Tickets from Tel (1) 266 30 62.
Palace of Arts (MÜPA) Ticketa Tel (1) 422 26 82. ∑ tropicanacasino.hu Museum of Military
Komor Marcell utca 1. ∑ budapestarena.hu History
Tel (1) 555 33 00. Kapisztrán tér 2–4.
∑ mupa.hu Sziget Festival Nightlife Map 1 A4.
∑ szigetfestival.com Tel (1) 325 16 47.
St Stephen’s Basilica Corvintető
Szent István tér 2. Map 2 Theatre and Blaha Lujza tér 1–2. Zoo
D5. Tel (1) 317 28 59. Cinema Tel (20) 772 29 84. Állatkerti körút 6–12.
∑ corvinteto.com Tel (1) 273 49 00.
State Opera House Cinema City Westend ∑ zoobudapest.com
Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Váci út 1–3. Map 2 E2. LÄRM
Tel (1) 331 25 50. Tel (40) 60 06 00. Akácfa utca 51.
∑ opera.hu ∑ funzine.hu ∑ larm.hu

122  BUDAPEST

BUDAPEST STREET FINDER

The map references given for all the sights, useful information listed in the key below.
hotels, bars, restaurants, shops and enter- As an aid to navigation, all street names on
tainment venues in Budapest refer to the the Street Finder and in the index are in
maps in this section. Opposite is a complete Hungarian. Terms that may be confusing are
index of street names marked on the maps. utca (often abbreviated to u), which means
The map below shows the area of Budapest “street”, and út meaning“avenue”, usually
covered by the Street Finder; it is colour-coded wide, busy roads. Other commonly used
by area. The Street Finder shows bus and tram terms are körút (krt, ring road), tér (square),
routes and major sights together with other köz (lane), körtér (circus) and híd (bridge).

MARGI ÁRPÁDÚTFEJAJEDELEM

Danube (Duna)T KÖRÚTBEMSZKTÖ. RISÚTTVÁN
J. U. Around
VÁCI ÚT
Parliament KÖRÚT
Castle TERÉZ
District
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT

ALKOTÁS U. HEGYALJA ÚT RÁKÓCZI ÚT KJÖÓRZ EÚFT
Gellért Hill
and Tabán Central
Pest

KFEÖRREÚNTC

BUDAÖRSI ÚT BOCSKAI IRINYI JÓZEF U. SOROKSÁRI ÚT
NAGYSZŐLŐS U. ÚT

0 kilometres 1
0 miles
1

Key River boat boarding point Scale of Map Pages
Tourist information point
Major sight Hospital with casualty unit 0 metres 200
Place of interest Police station 0 yards 1:14,000
Other building Church
Main bus stop Synagogue 200
Metro station Railway line
Funicular Pedestrianized street
Hév station
Train station
Tram route

STREET FINDER  123

Street Finder Index

A F Lehel utca 2F1 Szentkirályi utca 4F1
4E2
Ady Endre utca Lipthay utca 1B2 Szerb utca 1B1
Ajnácskő utca 1A2 Fadrusz utca 3C4 Liszt F tér 1B5
Akadémia utca 1B3 2F4 Szeréna út 2F3
Alagút utca 3A5 Fazekas utca 3C5 Lónyay utca 4E2 Színház utca 3C2
Alkotás utca 1C4 Fehérvári út 4F3 Lovas út 1A4 Szinyei Merse utca 3B3
Alkotmány utca 1B5 Ferenc körút
Alsóhegy utca 1A5 Ferenczy I utca 4E1 M Szirtes utca 1B4
Andrássy út 2D4 Fő utca 1B4 2E3
Apáczai utca Szüret utca 3B5
Apostol utca 1B2
Aradi utca 3A3 Frankel Leó út 1B1 Mányoki út 4D3 T
Arany János utca 1B2
Árpád Fejedelem 2E4 Margit körút 1A3 2D2
2D5 G 4F2 Táncsics M. utca 4F2
útca Mária utca 2D3 Teréz körút 1B5
Attila út 3A1 Tétényi út
Avar utca 1B2 Gerlóczy utca 4E1 Markó utca 4F3 Török utca 4D1
2F3 Groza Péter rakpart 3C1 Márvány utca 3A1 2E2
B 2D4 Győri utca 3A1 Mester utca 4E2
Mészáros utca 1A4
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út Móricz Zsigmond körtér4D4 U 4E1
Bajza utca 1B1 H Műegyetem rakpart 4E3 4F4
Balassi Bálint utca 1A5 3C1 Múzeum körút 4E1 Újlaki rakpart 1A1
Bank utca Újpesti rakpart 1A4
Baross utca 3A1 Hadnagy utca 2E2
Bartók Béla út 4D1
Báthory utca Hajós utca 2E4 N Üllői út 3B3
Batthyány utca Halmi utca 3B5 Úri utca 2D5
Bécsi utca
Bécsi kapu tér 2D4 Hamzsabégi út 3A5 Nádor utca 2D4 V 2F5
Békési utca 2F2 Harmincad utca 2D5 Nagymező utca 2E4
Belgrád rakpart 1C3 Hattyú utca 1A3 Nagyszőlős utca 3A4 Váci utca 1A2
Bem J utca 2D4 Havas utca 4E2 Neumann János utca 4E5 Váci út 2D5
Bem rakpart Hegedűs Gyula utca 2D2
Bercsényi utca 4F2 Hegyalja út
Bimbó utca 3C4 Hess A tér 3B2 O Vámház körút
Bocskai út 1B4 Várfok utca
Bogdánfy utca 2D4 Hollán Ernő utca
Bródy Sándor utca 1B4 Honvéd utca 2D2 Október 23 utca 4D4 Városház utca
Budafoki út 2D5 Horvát utca 2D3 Október 6 utca 2D5 Vaskapu utca
Budai N utca 1B3 1A4 Vérhalom utca
Budaörsi út 1A4 Hunyadi János út 1B5 Országház utca Vérmező út
Buday László utca
4F1 P Victor Hugo utca
C Vigadó tér
4D1 I 4E4 Palota út 1B5 Villányi út
Clark Ádám tér 1B4 Pannónia utca 2D2 Vörösmarty tér
Csalogány utca 1B3 2F3 Papnövelde utca 4E1
Csanády utca 1C4 Irinyi József utca Paulay Ede utca
Csányi utca 4D4 Iskola utca 2E5 W
Csengery utca 1A2 Izabella utca
Czakó utca
3B4 J Pázmány Péter sétány 4E4 Wesselényi utca
D 4D5
Petőfi S utca 4D1
Dezső utca
Dísz tér 4F1 Jókai utca 2E4 Podmaniczky utca 2E3 Z
Dob utca 4D4 József Attila utca 2D5 Pozsonyi út 2D2
Döbrentei tér 2D2 József körút
Dohány utca 3A3 4F2 R Zivatar utca
Dombóvári út Zrínyi utca
Donáti utca 1B2 K Ráday utca
Dorottya utca 4F3
Dózsa György út
Kacsa utca 1B3 Rákóczi út 4E1
E Kálmán Imre utca 2D4 Régiposta utca 4D1
1C5 Kapisztrán tér 1A4 Rómer Flóris utca 1A2
Erzsébet körút 1B3 Karinthy Frigyes út 4D4 Rózsa utca 2F3

2E2 Karolina út 3B4
2F5 Károly körút
4E1 S
2F4 Károlyi utca 4E1
3B2 Kárpát utca 2D1 Sánc út 3B2
2F1 Sárbogárdi út 3C5
Kassák Lajos utca 4E2 Sarolta utca 1A1
3C3 Somlói út 3C3
Kecskeméti utca 4F2 Soroksári út 4F4
2F4 Szabadság tér 2D4
Kelenhegyi út 4E2 Szabad Sajtó út 4D1
3B1 Kinizsi utca 2F5 Széchenyi István tér 1C5
1B5 Király utca 1C4 Széchenyi rakpart 1C3
2E5 Királyi Pál utca
3C1 Klauzál utca 4E1 Széll Kálmán tér 1A3
2F5 Kossuth Lajos tér
4D5 Kossuth L utca 4E3 Szemere utca 2D3
1B4 Közraktár utca
2D5 Krisztina körút 1A5 Szemlöhegy utca 1A2
2F1
Szent Gellért rakpart 4D2
L
Szent Gellért tér 4D3

Szentháromság tér 1B4

Lágymányosi utca 4D4 Szent István körút 2D3

2F4 Lánchíd utca 3C1 Szent István tér 2D5

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HUNGARY
REGION BY

REGION

Hungary at a Glance 130–131
Around Budapest 132–149
Northern Transdanubia 150–181
Southern Transdanubia 182–211
The Northern Highlands 212–233
The Great Plain 234–259

130  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION Firewatch Tower in Sopron
Located in the far northwest of
Hungary at a Glance the country, the attractive town
of Sopron has a well-preserved
Hungary was traditionally divided into four regions – the Great medieval centre.
Plain, the Northern Highlands, Transdanubia and Transylvania –
but since 1918, with the exception of a short period at the
beginning of World War II, Transylvania has been a part of
Romania. In this guide, the vast region of Transdanubia is
divided into a northern and a southern half. While each
region has its own traditions and values, culture and habits,
Hungary is one of the most homogenous countries in the
world. It is also one of the least urban countries in Europe:
outside Budapest, only Debrecen has more than 200,000
inhabitants. The population is concentrated in small towns
and thousands of villages, and it is the traditions of these
smaller places that give the country its charm.

Sopron Győr Vác

Tatabánya Gödöllő

NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA BUDAPEST

(see pp150–81) (see pp52–127)
Szombathely
AROUND
Székesfehérvár BUDAPEST

(see pp132–49)

Veszprém

Zalaegerszeg

Siofók Előszállás Solt
Balatonlelle
Royal Palace of Gödöllő
Franz Joseph’s wife, “Sisi”, Nagykanizsa SOUTHERN
loved staying here at the TRANSDANUBIA
Habsburgs’ fine summer
residence in Gödöllő. The (see pp182–211)
town also has a renowned
local artists’ colony. Vése Kaposvár Szekszárd

Baja

Szigetvár Pécs

Pécs Cathedral
The ornate St Peter’s Cathedral stands
at the historic centre of this sunny town,
while busy Széchenyi tér is dominated
by a former mosque.

View from the citadel of Visegrád, on the Danube Bend

HUNGARY AT A GLANCE  131

Hollókő Church
A museum village devoted to the
preservation of the lifestyles and
traditions of the Palóc people, Hollókő
has been added to the UNESCO
World Heritage list. The church here is
whitewashed, like the village houses.

0 kilometres 50

0 miles 50

THE NORTHERN Záhony
HIGHLANDS Mátészalka

(see pp212–33)

Salgótarján Miskolc Nyíregyháza
Gyöngyös Eger

Jászberény Debrecen

Püspökladány
Pilis

Szolnok

THE GREAT PLAIN

(see pp234–59)

Kecskemét

Békéscsaba

Szeged

Hortobágy National Park
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Hortobágy
Puszta is famous for its cattle and its horsemen,
the csikós, as well as the national dish of goulash.

Great Catholic Church in Kecskemét
A centre of the arts and education, Kecskemét boasts
some fine architecture, including this large Baroque
edifice. Older buildings have been skilfully integrated
into the modern cityscape.



HUNGARY REGION BY REGION  133

AROUND
BUDAPEST

Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals,
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The
unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region,
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
a superb habitat for native wildlife.

With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands
banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost homes in the area, and the legions of
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices.
everywhere. The natural fortress that is the
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen Over on the east bank the rolling hills
site for the construction of the historic of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly
towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both National Park – home to more than
built with protection and defence in mind. half of Hungary’s native bird species –
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian make for sensational hiking, walking
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád and birdwatching.
was the impenetrable seat of royal power.
Later still came Szentendre, which, like This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was part of Hungary, where visitors can expect
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
home and, though few Serbs remain, but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
traces of their culture and their religion As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
are evident everywhere. Those who come winter can be very cold, the early spring –
March, April and May – may be the best
time for exploring these historic places.

Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve
Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation

134  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

Exploring Around Budapest NAGYBÖRZSÖNY NDAUTNIOAN-IAPOL LPYARK

The countryside and villages around Budapest have always
been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is
the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the
art-loving village of Szentendre. Further upriver are the
Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city,
Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
countless hiking and nature trails. The Royal Mansion
in Gödöllő to the east is worth seeing, and south of
Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa
Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs.

ZEBEGÉNY

ESZTERGOM VISEGRÁD

Komárom Leányfalu
Dorog
SZENTENDRE

Pomáz

Pilisvörösvar Duna (Danub e )

Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa Solymár

Getting Around Zsámbék Budakeszi
Budapest has an international airport, and from here Győr
destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are
best reached by train, on the Budapest suburban rail Biatorbágy Budaörs
network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be
visited by train or car. During the summer months, the Törökbálint
most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart
Passnave motorboat, departing northwards from Vigadó Érd
tér in Budapest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at
most towns along the way. Other services go to Székes- Szigetszent-
Szentendre and Vác. fehérvár miklós

Százhalom- Szigethalom
batta Dunavarsány

Ercsi Ráckevei-Duna

Kiskunlacháza
RÁCKEVE

Dömsöd

Dunaúj- Kalocsa
város

Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND BUDAPEST  135

Sights at a Glance

1 Ráckeve
2 Ócsa
3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
4 Vácrátót
5 Vác
6 Szentendre pp142–4
7 Visegrád
8 Zebegény
9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly

National Park
0 Esztergom pp146–9

Kosd The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich
VÁC

VÁCRÁTÓT Debrecen
Göd Tura

Veresegyház Aszód Key

Dunakeszi Motorway
Major road
Fót GÖDÖLLŐ Major road under construction
Secondary road
Csömör Kerepes Minor road
Kistarcsa Main railway
Isaszeg Minor railway
International border
BUDAPEST Pécel Jászberény Regional border

Sülysáp

Vecsés Gyömrő
Üllő
Gyál

Monor

ÓCSA Inárcs Szolnok

PEST

Bugyi Újhartyán

Dabas

Kecskemét

0 kilometres 10
0 miles
10 A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
town hall in Vác

For additional keys to symbols see back flap

136  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve fire) has ensured that this is one
of the best-preserved Roman-
1 Ráckeve greatest military strategists, esque churches in the country.
Prince Eugene of Savoy. Credited
43 km (27 miles) southwest of with the expulsion of the Turks Many of the houses that
Budapest. Road Map C4. * 8,500. at the end of the 17th century, surround the church date from
£ from Budapest. @ from Budapest. Prince Eugene built himself a the 18th century, and all are
n Tourinform, Eötvös utca 1, (24) 42 country mansion known as the protected buildings. One contains
97 47. Savoyai Castle, on what is now a small ethnographic museum,
Kossuth Lajos utca. The elegant, with collections of folk costumes,
The small town of Ráckeve has very early Baroque façade of tools and dolls. The house also
for centuries been considered the mansion has been preserved. serves as the visitors’ centre for
the capital of Csepel Island, Although the castle is currently the Ócsa Nature Reserve
which extends 54 km (34 miles) closed to the public, its formal (Ócsai Tájvédelmi Körzet), one
south along the middle of the gardens can be admired from of the most accessible nature
Danube from Budapest. Ráckeve the river. reserves in Hungary. The reserve
(Rác means “Serb” in Hungarian) surrounds the village, and apart
was founded in the 15th century 2 Ócsa from one small area visitors can
by Serbs from Keve, who fled freely explore it. Much of the
Serbia after the Turkish invasion. 30 km (19 miles) west of Budapest. reserve consists of reedy bog or
Road Map D3. * 8,500. £ from marsh, known as turjános, which
The oldest building in the Budapest. @ from Budapest. n once covered a vast area here.
town is the Serbian Orthodox Tourinform, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 2, The marshes are home to rare
Church on Viola utca, built by (29) 57 87 50. plant and animal species,
some of the first Serbs to arrive including tortoises, lizards and a
here. Dating back to 1487, this The part-Romanesque, part- number of birds, such as harriers
is the oldest Orthodox church Gothic Calvinist Church at and corncrakes. Guided tours
in Hungary. Its walls are covered Ócsa was originally built in depart from the visitors’ centre.
in well-preserved frescoes, the 13th century by the
the first telling the story of the Premonstratensian Order, O Ócsa Nature Reserve
Nativity and the last depicting about which there is a small Dr. Békési Panyik Andor utca 4–6.
the Resurrection. A vast, exhibition in one of the church’s Tel (30) 494 33 68. Open Mar–Oct:
colourful iconostasis separates side rooms. Used as a mosque 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Feb–Nov: 9am–
the sanctuary from the nave. during the Turkish invasion, 4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun.
Two side chapels with it was converted back into a &8
Renaissance elements were church during the 18th century,
added in the 16th century. and thorough restoration in Romanesque façade of the Calvinist Church
1920 (following damage by a in Ócsa
Ráckeve’s peaceful and
convenient situation made it the 3 Gödöllő
country home of one of Europe’s
35 km (22 miles) northeast of Budapest.
Road Map D3. * 29,000. £ HÉV
from Budapest. n Tourinform, Királyi
Kastély, (28) 41 54 02.

Gödöllő is most famous for its
restored Baroque palace, the
Antal Grassalkovich Mansion
(see pp138–9), built in 1741.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND BUDAPEST  137

Opposite the mansion, on the Rock garden at the National and 1764. The façade – with two
other side of the railway tracks, Botanical Garden, Vácrátót Corinthian half­columns guarding
is what is left of old Gödöllő, the entrance – is adorned with
mainly the cluster of buildings O National Botanical Garden an intricate wrought­iron balcony.
around Szabadság tér. At No. 5 Alkotmány utca 2–4. Tel (28) 36 01 22. Next door is the Sisters of Charity
is the oldest building in the town, Open Gardens: Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm Chapel and Hospital, built in the
dating from 1661. Once the daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. 17th century and still a function­
home of local landowner Ferenc Greenhouses: Apr–Oct: 8am–3:45pm ing hospital to this day (a more
Hamvay, it is today the excellent Tue–Sun (to 1:15pm Fri). & 8 7 modern section was recently
Gödöllő Town Museum (Gödöllő incorporated into the back of
Városi Múzeum). Besides displays 5 Vác the hospital building, cleverly
telling the story of the town kept out of view from the square).
and of its greatest patron, Antal 40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest.
Grassalkovich, there is a colourful Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from The pink Neo­Renaissance
exhibition focusing on the works Budapest. @ from Budapest. building opposite the hospital
of the Gödöllő Artists’Colony. This n Tourinform, Március 15 tér 17, was for a short time the Bishop’s
group of artists, active between (27) 31 61 60. ( daily, behind Palace, then the Vác residence
1901 and 1920, was inspired by Március 15 tér. ∑ www.visitvac.hu of Habsburg Empress Maria
William Morris and John Ruskin Theresa, who adored the town.
and pursued ideals of communal Vác has stood on the eastern Since 1802 the building has
rural living. Behind the museum bank of the Danube since the been the home of Hungary’s
is the Calvinist Church, built here year 1000. Destroyed by war in Deaf and Dumb Society.
in 1745 with money donated the late 17th century, the town
by Grassalkovich, who had was rebuilt. Its centre, around On the southern side of the
demolished the town’s original Március 15 tér, dates from the square stands the Dominican
Calvinist church to make way 18th century and was a thriving
for his palace. marketplace until 1951. The Church of Our Lady of Victory,
market itself survives, though on which construction began in
E Gödöllő Town Museum it is now hidden behind the 1699. Due to the War of Indepen­
Szabadság tér 5. Tel (28) 42 20 03. Dominican Church, a Baroque dence, however, work on the
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & masterpiece built between 1734 interior decoration only began
in 1755. As a result the façade is
4 Vácrátót sober, while the interior is rich in
Rococo artwork. The special cli­
35 km (22 miles) from Budapest. matic conditions of the crypt have
Road Map D3. * 1,700. £ from conserved naturally mummified
Budapest. @ from Budapest, Vác. bodies, coffins, clothes and other
objects buried with the dead.
The National Botanical Garden These are on display at the
(Nemzeti Botanikuskert) at exhibition inside the church.
Vácrátót is among the oldest
in Hungary, and at present the At the northernmost end of
largest. Founded in 1870 by the old town, on Köztársaság út,
Count Sándor Vigyázó, the gar­ stands the only triumphal arch
dens have been open to the in Hungary. This was built in
public since 1961. Among 1764, ostensibly to honour
the 12,000 different kinds of Maria Theresa.
plant covering over 2 sq km
(0.8 sq miles) are more than The Dominican Church in Vác, with its simple exterior belying the riches within
1,000 species that are native to
Hungary, as well as plants of the
Russian steppes, Central Asia,
the Rocky Mountains in the US,
and trees and shrubs from the
Far East. Waterfalls, rock gardens,
lakes and many statues add to
the enjoyment, while frogs are
a frequent sight along the paths
and walkways of the gardens.

Inside the greenhouses are a
further 2,800 different types of
plant and flower, as well as a
fascinating exhibition on the
flora of the tropics.

138  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

Royal Palace of Gödöllő

Seemingly lifted directly from a fairytale, the Baroque
Gödöllő Royal Palace is as enchanting now as it was
the day it was completed in 1748. Designed by András
Mayerhoffer, the palace was commissioned by the
flamboyant Hungarian aristocrat Antal Grassalkovich I,
a confidant of Empress Maria Theresa. Home to Hungarian
rulers from Emperor Franz Joseph to Governor Horthy,
it is Franz Joseph’s wife, the beautiful Sisi, who has left
the most indelible mark on the palace.

. Franz Joseph’s Reception Room
The walls of the Emperor’s suite
are covered in the finest red silks.
The wooden floor is the original,
from the 18th century.

. Chapel
The Chapel, consecrated
in 1749, replaced the original
Calvinist village church. It features
two Rococo pulpits and a mosaic
portrait of Antal Grassalkovich I.

KEY Minor Coronation Hall
Originally the king’s
1 Bath and Orangerie bedroom, an oversized
and stunning depiction of
2 The Oratory has a full-size Franz Joseph’s coronation
portrait of Antal Grassalkovich I in 1867, commissioned by
above the marble fireplace. himself, is the centrepiece
of this room.
3 The Wardrobe of Franz Joseph I
contains replicas of his vast The Palace
collection of uniforms, with which from the Park
the Emperor was obsessed – he Used as an old
was rarely seen out of uniform. people’s home and to
house Soviet troops
4 Below the Dressing Room of after World War II, the
Queen Elizabeth is a secret room in palace was rebuilt and
which key negotiations leading to renovated in 1986–91.
the Austro-Hungarian Compromise
of 1867 (see p46) were held.

5 The Queen Elizabeth Memorial
Exhibition suite has been restored
to its original violet, the Queen’s
favourite colour. On display are
her most cherished paintings.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND BUDAPEST  139

. Grand Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A vast ballroom, with
marble and gilded stucco Practical Information
decoration on walls and Gödöllő, 28 km (17 miles)
ceiling, the Hall also has a northeast of Budapest.
hidden music room above Road Map D3. Tel (28) 41 01 24.
the entrance. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm (to 5pm
Sat & Sun). & 8 tours of palace
and grounds available. 7 - =
_ check website for special
events. ∑ kiralyikastely.hu

Transport
£@

Main entrance Grand Staircase
The elegant double

staircase features
stucco decoration and

Rococo motifs. The
balustrade is a simple,

open design in
painted stone.

Baroque Painted Room
This informal room, its walls

covered with paintings, is
today furnished with items

from Queen Elizabeth’s
private waiting room
at Budapest Nyugati
railway station.

. Queen Elizabeth’s Reception Room
A symbolic portrait here depicts

Elizabeth as a Hungarian queen, dressed
in traditional Hungarian costume and
mending the coronation robe.

The spectacular ruins of the Citadel in Visegrád





142  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

6 Szentendre The Szamos Marzipan Museum, a homage
to confectionery
For any visitor, Szentendre is a delight. Its Baroque
architecture, Orthodox churches, galleries, cobbled children of all ages will delight
streets and riverside setting make it an idyllic place in the exhibition of a wide
to visit. A horse-drawn carriage ride along the Danube range of objects, including
at sunset will be an unforgettable experience. flowers, buildings and figurines
– all meticulously and skilfully
Although known as the largest Serb settlement in crafted from marzipan.
Hungary – Serbs fled here from the Turks after the Battle
of Kosovo Polje in 1389, and again after the Battle of P Templom Square
Belgrade in 1690 – it was the Romans who founded the Templom tér
town in the 4th century. Many Serbs moved away in At the top of a small hill above
the 1920s and artists moved in, attracted by the town’s Fő tér, this walled square, the
air and light; it remains popular with artists today. centre of the town in the Middle
Ages, stands on the site of the
P Fő Square painter János Kmetty original Roman fort of Ulcisia.
(1889–1975), a pioneering
Fő tér Cubist who lived here for 45 The Catholic church in the
years, from 1930 until his death. middle of the square was first
Fő tér is the bustling heart of built in Romanesque style
Szentendre, which is packed E Kmetty Museum in the 14th century and was
with hawkers and street artists Fő tér 21. Tel (26) 92 09 90. Closed renovated in Baroque style in
in summer. Its wrought­iron call ahead to check. & 8 7 the 18th century. A few original
cross was raised in 1763 by features remain, including the
survivors of the last major E Szentendre Gallery sundial on the right­hand side.
outbreak of bubonic plague. Fő tér 2–5. Tel (26) 92 09 90.
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun Opposite the church is a
On the Danube side of Fő (to 5:30pm Apr–Sep). & 7 charming building, home
tér is its tallest building, the to the Czóbel Museum. Béla
Blagovestenska Church, built E Szamos Marzipan Czóbel, a painter famous for
from 1752 to 1754 to designs Museum landscapes and nudes, lived
by András Mayerhoffer. Its Dumtsa Jenő utca 12. Tel (26) 31 in Szentendre from 1946 to
elegantly curved balcony and 05 45. Open May–Sep: 9am–8pm; his death in 1976.
tall, split­level belfry are models Oct–Apr: 9am–7pm.
of late Baroque simplicity. Inside, ∑ szamosmarcipan.hu E Czóbel Museum
the choir, frescoes of Emperor Templom tér 1. Tel (26) 92 09 90.
Constantine and a large, Since 1935, Szamos has been Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Wed–Sun
colourful iconostasis depicting making marzipan and other &87
the Annunciation vie for the sweet treats; today, the name
visitor’s attention. is nothing short of legendary
in the world of Hungarian
Next door is the pastel confectionery.
pink Szentendre Gallery,
featuring the works of local The museum in Szentendre
artists. The building was once opened in 2003. There is a
a terrace of six identical shop and small café on the
merchants’ houses. It was ground floor offering pastries,
converted into a gallery in 1987. bonbons and cakes. These can
be enjoyed immediately or
Opposite, in an early be boxed up for later indulgence.
19th­century Saxon­style house, Upstairs in the museum,
is the Kmetty Museum, devoted
to the life and works of the

Monument and pretty coloured houses in Fő Square R Belgrade Church and
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 Museum of Serbian
Orthodox Ecclesiastical Art
Szerb Ortodox Egyházművészeti
Gyűjtemény, Könyvtár és Levéltár
Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (26) 31 23 99.
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun; Mar, Apr, Oct–Dec: 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun; Jan & Feb: 10am–4pm
Fri–Sun. & 7

Built by Serbs (but often known
as the Greek Church) the Bel­
grade Church is the Hungarian

SZENTENDRE  143

seat of the Serbian Orthodox P Bogdányi Street VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Patriarch and so officially a
cathedral. Built in 1756–64, it Bogdányi utca
is a sublime mix of Baroque
and Rococo styles, its clock Winding its way north from Practical Information
tower topped by a tall spire.
Inside it contains icons of Fő tér, Bogdányi utca is a lively 25 km (16 miles) north of
Orthodox saints by Vasili Ostoic
and a red marble altar. thoroughfare lined with his- Budapest. Road Map D3.
torical buildings, and packed * 22,000. n Tourinform,
In the gardens, the Museum of with many shops, stalls and Dumtsa Jenő utca 22, (26)
Serbian Orthodox Ecclesiastical portrait painters. 31 79 65.
Art has some 2,000 icons, ∑ szentendreprogram.hu
vestments, treasures and art The Imre Ámos/Margit Anna
objects, all brought here in
the 19th century after the Museum at No. 10 commem- Transport
closure of their original host
churches: testament to the orates the life and work of £ Szentendre (hév). @
demise of the Serb population
of Hungary (see p144). painters Imre Ámos and Margit Dunakanyar Körút. 4 Dunakorzó

Icons of Orthodox saints in the Anna, who married in 1936 and (summer only).
Belgrade Church
moved to Szentendre in 1937.

Ámos, a Jew, was taken to a

labour camp in was killed by a traitor at

Vojvodina in 1940, the Battle of Kosovo

where he continued Polje in 1389. His

to paint. He was body was taken

deported to back to Serbia in the

Germany in 1944, 19th century, and

where he died, the church was later

probably in a destroyed in a fire.
concentration camp. A wine barrel sign in
Preobrazenska
Bogdányi Street Church, at the top of
His wife Margit lived

until 1991. Her Cubist the street, built in

paintings are on the ground 1741–6, is another fine Baroque

floor, while Ámos’s work, includ- Serbian Orthodox church. The

ing his accounts of life in a annual Serb Folk Festival takes

labour camp, is on the first floor. place here on 19 August.

A cross on the corner of

Bogdányi utca and Lázár tér E Imre Ámos/Margit

stands where the body of the Anna Museum

legendary Serb ruler Prince Bogdányi utca 10. Open Apr–Sep:

Lázár once lay in a church. He 2–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7

Szentendre City Centre Hungarian MARTINOVICS BARTOK ÚT SZERB UT CA
Open-Air PÁTRIÁRKA UTCA
1 Fő Square Museum
2 Szamos Marzipan Museum
3 Templom Square UTCA Art Mill UTCA KORZÓ
4 Belgrade Church and Museum
FULCO DEÁK UT Belgrade Church BOGDÁNYI DUNA
of Serbian Orthodox & Serb Orthodox
Ecclesiastical Art Museum
5 Bogdányi Street
6 Margit Kovács Collection RÁKÓCZI ALKOTMÁNY UTCA HUNYADI UTCA Imre Ámos-Margit
7 Barcsay Collection TEMPLOM Anna Memorial
8 Hungarian Open-Air Museum TÉR Museum

UTC Danube
A Parish
Town Hall Church
B A J C S Y- ZSILINSZKY UTCA
FŐ TÉR GÖRÖG Kovács
Margit
Collection
UTCA
UTCA Culture
Szamos Marcipán House
Museum
PÉTER-PÁL UTCA
KANONOK Peter-Paul
Church Barcsay
UTCA Collection

BÜKKÖ KUCSERA JENŐ DUNA KORZÓ
S
B UTCA
PA P R I K A B I R Ó S kkPAöPRAsTRSTtr e a mKÖR UTCA
Bü DUMTSA JÓKAI MÓR UTCA
UTCA
ÜKK For keys to map symbols see back flap
Požarevačka
ChurchÖ

0 metres 100 Train and Bus Stations
0 yards 100 500 m (550 yards)

K

OSSUT
UTCA

H

144  HUNGARY AREA BY AREA

E Margit Kovács Ceramics
Collection

Kovács Margit Kerámiagyűjtemény

Vastagh György utca 1. Tel (26) 92

09 90. Open 10am–6pm daily. & 7

This 18th-century building
(whose entrance is somewhat

hidden at the back of a court-

yard) was originally a salt
storage facility, and became a

vicarage for the Blagovestenska

Church a century later. Since
1973 it has been Szentendre’s
best gallery, devoted to the

eclectic work of Margit Kovács
(1902–77), a ceramic artist.
Kovács attended Budapest’s

School of Applied Arts before A thatched building in the Hungarian Open-Air Museum in Szentendre
learning the fundamentals in
the pottery workshop of Herta E Hungarian Open-Air comprising houses, churches,

Bücher in Vienna, from 1926 to Museum schools, mills, wine presses,
1928. She developed her skills Szabadtéri Néprajzi Múzeum forges and stables. Worth looking
further in the State School for Sztaravodai út. Tel (26) 50 25 00. out for in particular are the three
Applied Arts in Munich, before Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; huge outdoor ovens in the
returning to Hungary, where Nov–Mar: check website. & 8 7 village of the Great Plain
she produced most of her best- ∑ skanzen.hu (brought to the museum from

known works. Hungary’s largest and best the village of Kisbodak), the
Nursing (1948) is an open-air village roadside crucifixes in the Central
museum is 4 km Transdanubian village, and the
example of Kovács’s

obsession with (2 miles) from flint-stone walls of the Bakony
the Madonna, a Szentendre; buses region houses.
common theme in depart every 30 min-
All of the buildings in the

many of her early utes (every hour at museum are open to the public,
works, while the later weekends) from the and some are working museums,
Bread Cutter (1962) bus station on with artisans demonstrating

is a witty satire of Dunakanyar körút traditional skills from pottery
the idealized (stop No. 7). The to wine making to visitors.
Hungarian peasant museum, opened in At various times of the year

woman from a 1967, is spread over special courses are organized
for visitors who want to acquire
feminist perspective. Margit Kovács Collection, 5.5 sq km (0.2 sq miles) traditional skills.
and features a recon-
Szentendre The Skanzen Nostalgia Train
structed village from takes in the main sights of
Skanzen. Visitors should allow
E Barcsay Collection each of Hungary’s five historic plenty of time for a visit here.

Barcsay Gyűjtemény regions. Each of the five villages

Dumtsa Jenő utca 10. Tel (26) 92 09 is complete and self-contained,
90. Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Wed–Sun.

&7 Hungary’s Serbs

This museum, located in a fine The development of the towns and cities of the
19th-century Saxon house, is
dedicated to Jenő Barcsay Danube Bend, especially Szentendre (see pp142–3),
(1900–88), who settled in
Szentendre in 1926 after was marked by two major waves of Serb migrations
studying art in Budapest and
Paris, where he was influenced to the region. The first, when around 10,000 Serbs
by the work of Cézanne. Widely
regarded as the first Hungarian fled north following a defeat by the Turks
Constructivist, he strongly
affected his contemporaries. at Kosovo Polje in 1389, was followed
Barcsay’s finest works are on
display here. Among the most by a larger migration in 1690 after
representative are Street at
Szentendre (1932), Landscape another defeat at the hands of the
at Szentendre (1934) and
Female Portrait (1936). Turks. This second time more than 30,000

Serbs fled north, with as many as 6,000 Serbs

settling in Szentendre, founding churches and

schools. In the 18th century, Empress Maria Theresa

sent many of Hungary’s Serbs to settle in the

border lands of the Vojvodina, rewarding
them with large parcels of land. Today, just Crucifix from the Serb Orthodox

3,800 Serbs officially remain in Hungary. Museum in Szentendre

For hotels and restaurants see p264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND BUDAPEST  145

7 Visegrád lived here most of his life until
his death in 1960. The museum
40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest. displays personal artifacts,
Road Map C3. * 1,700. £ @ from family photos and some of his
Budapest. 4 from Budapest, works, including A Bench in the
Esztergom; from Szentendre (summer Garden (1943).
only). ∑ visitvisegrad.hu

Set on the narrowest stretch E István Szőnyi Memorial

of the Danube, Visegrád is a Museum

popular village with visitors Bartóky utca 7. Tel (27) 62 01 61. Open
dominated by its spectacular Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:
ruined Citadel. Built in the 13th 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8
century by King Béla IV, this was Hungarian and German. 7
once one of the finest royal ∑ szonyimuzeum.hu

palaces in Hungary. The massive Zebegény’s Roman Catholic church, built in 9 Nagybörzsöny
outer walls are still intact, and Secessionist style

offer the visitor superb views. 8 Zebegény & Duna-Ipoly
Halfway down the hill, in the National Park
30 km (19 miles) east of Vác. Road
Salamon Tower, is the Mátyás Map C3. * 1,200. £ from Budapest. 24 km (15 miles) north of Visegrád.
Museum, a collection of items

excavated from the ruins of 4 from Budapest. Road Map C2/3. @ from Szob

the Royal Palace. Built by King (to Nagybörzsöny). ∑s dinpi.hu

Sigismund in the 14th century, Famous for fine views of the

it was renovated a century later, Danube Bend, the tiny village of Home to the fine 14th-century

in magnificent Renaissance style, Zebegény also boasts one stone Romanesque Church of

by Mátyás Corvinus (see p41). It of Hungary’s few Catholic St Stephen, a working mid-

fell derelict in the 16th century churches in Secession 19th-century water mill

after the Turkish invasion and style. Designed by (open to the public) and

was then buried in a mudslide. Károly Kós, Dénes a mining museum,

The ruins were not rediscovered Györgyi and Béla Nagybörzsöny is best

until 1934, when excavations Jánszky and built from known as the gateway

took place. Now largely recon- 1910 to 1914, its plain to the Duna-Ipoly

structed and whitewashed, façade has Neo- National Park, one

several rooms recreate life in Romanesque traits. It of the largest in

the Renaissance Palace. is its sharply angled the country. The

and tiered, Christmas- Buda Hill caves

+ Citadel tree-like roof that sets the and the Sas-hegy

Tel (26) 39 81 01. Open Mar–Oct: church apart, while the tall nature trail outside

9am–5pm daily; May–Sep: 9am–6pm adjoining spire adds Budapest are also
daily; Oct–Nov: 9am–4pm daily; Dec– elegance. Inside, the Signpost in Duna-Ipoly within its borders.
Feb: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun. colourful frescoes of St National Park
The park is home

E Mátyás Museum Constantine are the last to more than 70

Salamon-torony utca. Tel (26) 59 major works by the master protected plants and more than

70 10. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm painter Kriesch Aladár Körösfői half of Hungary’s native bird

Wed–Sun. & (1863–1920). species (including black and

P Royal Palace Behind the church is the István white-backed woodpeckers).
Fő utca 23. Tel (26) 59 70 10. Szőnyi Memorial Museum. One A narrow-gauge railway
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb: of the most prominent Hungarian
10am–4pm. & 8 Expressionist painters, Szőnyi runs at weekends from
Nagybörzsöny to Nagyirtás

across the Börzsöny Hills, from

where well-marked hiking trails

fan out across the park. There is

also a long trail from Nagybör-

zsöny itself, leading up to Nagy

Hideg Hegy peak, which offers

views across to Slovakia.

A second narrow-gauge

railway, from Kismaros to

Királyrét, opens up the

southern part of the park.

There are hiking trails from

Királyrét across the hills, and

on to Nógrád, where there

The spectacular ruins of the citadel, towering over Visegrád is a spectacular ruined castle.

146  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

0 Esztergom rounded façade and high nave.
The twin spires were added much
St István, Hungary’s first king, was baptized in Esztergom, later, in the middle of the 19th
and crowned here on Christmas Day in the year 1000. Almost century. The Baroque interior was
completely destroyed by the Mongol invasion 250 years unfortunately lost during World
later, the town was gradually rebuilt during the 18th and War II, and has yet to be replaced.
19th centuries. Esztergom today is still Hungary’s most sacred The statue in front of the church
city, the seat of the Archbishop of Hungary. Although it is was raised in 1740 by the
dominated by the huge Basilica (see pp148–9), Esztergom has people of Esztergom, grateful
much to offer besides its mighty cathedral, including one of for having survived an outbreak
Hungary’s oldest castles, the picturesque and eclectic district of the plague. A bridge behind
of Víziváros (Watertown), the fascinating Danube Museum the church leads to Prímás
and Hungary’s finest collection of ecclesiastical art. Sziget, an island of gardens
and parks in the Danube,
R Esztergom Basilica can be visited, but the study of from where another bridge
crosses the river into Slovakia.
See pp148–9. Matyas’s tutor is currently closed
The Lord’s Coffin of Garamszentbenedek,
due to construction work, with in the Christian Museum

+ Royal Palace and Castle no date set for re-opening. E Christian Museum
Keresztény Múzeum
Museum To the south and north are Mindszenty tér 2. Tel (33) 41 38 80.
Open Mar–Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
Vár & Vármúzeum well-preserved remains of the Closed Dec–Feb. & 8
The Roman Catholic Primate of
Szent István tér 1. Tel (33) 41 59 86. ramparts and steps back into All Hungary, János Simor, resided
in this grand Neo-Renaissance
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; the town. The Esztergom Castle palace after it was completed in
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. _ Theatre stages plays in summer, 1882, and immediately opened
&8 and the castle also hosts the the palace and its vast collection
of paintings, including works by
Opposite Esztergom Basilica are History Days festival in September. early Italian Renaissance artists
Migazzi and Bertinelli, to the
the partly reconstructed remains public. The building has been a
dedicated museum since 1924,
of the Royal Palace, one of the P Víziváros and its collection of church art,
bolstered by many subsequent
oldest buildings in Hungary. Berényi utca purchases, is now the finest
in Hungary.
The southern walls date back Víziváros (Watertown) is a
The splendid, wheeled Lord’s
to the 10th century. From 1256 district of mainly Baroque Coffin of Garamszentbenedek
(now in Slovakia), dating from
onwards it was the palace of buildings, narrow streets, 1480, is decorated with carved
figures and is still used in Easter
Esztergom’s archbishops, single-storey houses and

and improvement was tiny well-kept gardens. The

continuous right up area was developed

until the Turkish during the regener-

invasion, when it ation of Esztergom

was sacked. Much after the with-

of the palace drawal of the

remained, however, Turks in the early

and is open today as Statue of Queen Elizabeth 18th century.
the Castle Museum. in Viziváros Víziváros Parish
Church, consecrated
The 12th century

Royal Chapel, featuring an by Jesuits in 1728, is a perfect

original rose window and 13th example of the Baroque

century portraits of the Apostles, architecture of the time with its

The domed Basilica, iconic building of Esztergom

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

ESZTERGOM  147

processions. It is thought not VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to contain any human remains:
its purpose has always been Practical Information
symbolic. The room devoted to Road Map C3. * 28,357.
altarpieces, some dating back _ Castle Theatre (Jul–Aug);
to the 14th century, is stunning History Days Festival (late
in its colour and historical import. Aug–early Sep).
Tamás Koloszvári’s Ascension is
considered the most significant Transport
medieval painting in Hungary. £ Bem József tér. @ Simor
János utca. 4 Nagy-Duna sétány
Besides the picture gallery, (summer only).
there are equally stunning
sculpture and icon galleries. previous home on the Danube.
The museum houses all sorts
E Bálint Balassa Museum The Danube Museum, devoted to life of hydraulic equipment from
MNM Balassa Bálint Múzeum with the river the past century, as well as
exhibits devoted to damming
Mindszenty tér 5. Tel (33) 50 01 75. E Danube Museum and the Danube and navigation,
Lower Esztergom water supply and purification.
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Duna Múzeum & Belváros There is a collection of
Kölcsey utca 2. Tel (33) 50 02 50. engineering tools, as well as a
Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Open Feb, Nov & Dec: 10am–4pm history of water management
Wed–Mon; Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm since Roman times. Children
&8 Wed–Mon. Closed Tue and Jan. will enjoy the many hands-on
displays, which enable them
Situated opposite the Víziváros 87 to get very wet indeed.
Parish Church, the Bálint Balassa
Museum is named after a The role of the Danube in the A 5-minute walk south
Renaissance poet who died in history and development of along Vörösmary utca leads
1594 while fighting the Turks. Esztergom is given due impor- to Széchenyi tér, centre of the
The over 120-year-old museum tance in this outstanding Lower Town and surrounded
underwent a major refurbish- museum close to the city on all sides by a mixture of
ment in 2014 and exhibits centre. The building itself is a Baroque and Neo-Classical
now showcase archaeological gem. It was built in the 18th houses, many of which are now
artifacts, weapons from the century in Baroque style and cafés. Its focal point is the town
18th to the 20th centuries, ship was a crumbling wreck until hall, an immaculately preserved
models, antique furniture and renovated in 1973, when the Rococo building from 1729.
a rich book collection. Also museum moved here from its
displayed are 18th-century
tableware and other interesting
ethnographic items.

Esztergom City Centre SZENTGYÖRGYMEZŐ ISKOLA
UTCA
1 Basilica pp148–9 St. Adalbert
2 Royal Palace and Castle Center

Museum Basilica Dark SZENT
3 Víziváros Gate ISTVÁN
4 Christian Museum
5 Bálint Balassa Museum TÉR
6 Danube Museum and
BERÉNYI BÁNOM
Lower Esztergom
Danube UTCA Royal Palace BASA UTCA
and Castle Museum
Rondella
VÍZIVÁROS MAJEURTICSTAVÁN
UTCA UTCA
VASVÁRI PAL
Christian STZEERNET Y Bálint Balassa B AT T H YÁ N Y SZENT
Museum Museum TAMÁS-HEGY
Víziváros PÁZMÁNY UTCA
MÍND Chapel
Parish B TÖ RÖK
Church A SILIN

J CSY- UTCA
SZKY
Kossuth Kis-Duna ATTÍLA Z
híd TÉR

NAGY DUNA SÉTÁNY UTCA

Mária KIS-DUNA SÉTÁNY Outdoor IMAHÁZ UTCA
Valéria Pool

híd

Customs TÁ N C S I C S M I H A LY Danube Museum
House and Lower Estergom

200 UTCA ÖSMAURTTCYA
200 Train Station
0 metres Bottyan LŐRINCZ UTCA VÖR 1.2 km (0.7 miles)
0 yards híd RÁKÓCZI Bus Station
TÉR 1 km (0.6 miles)

For keys to map symbols see back flap

148  HUNGARY REGION BY REGION

Esztergom Basilica Treasury
Hungary’s most valuable
Rising high above the Danube, its bright collection of liturgical and
blue cupola visible from afar, the cathedral at royal art, dating back to the
Esztergom has been a symbol of Hungary for early Árpád dynasty, is kept
a millennium, ever since St István was crowned here, as well as a shrine
here on Christmas Day 1000. Hungary’s largest with St István’s skull.
cathedral, the present structure, dating from
the 19th century, was built over a 47-year
period from 1822 to 1869. It replaced the much
smaller 12th-century St Adalbert’s Cathedral,
which was destroyed by the Turks as they
retreated in the 18th century.

. Copy of Titian’s Tomb of Cardinal Mindszenty
Assumption of the Virgin in the Crypt
(1853–4) Cardinal József Mindszenty was
Behind the altar, this is the a pillar of resistance to both the
largest single-canvas painting Nazi and Communist regimes. He
in the world. The original died in exile in 1975, and his body
(1516–18) hangs in Venice’s was laid to rest here in 1991.
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

KEY

1 Pillars supporting the Dome
2 The North Tower is one of two
identical basilica bell towers which
rise to 71.5 m (235 ft), matching
exactly the height of the main
dome’s interior. The unusual,
octagonal form of their bases is
thought to be unique in Hungary.
3 Corinthian Columns – 22
in total – give the basilica’s
entrance an unmistakable Neo-
Classical appearance.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285