EYEWITNESS TRAVEL HUNGARY

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  49

The 1956 Hungarian Revolution

On the morning of 23 October, students and workers unhappy with falling living standards
marched on Radio Hungary in Budapest, in a bid to broadcast a list of demands, which
included the immediate withdrawal of all Soviet troops stationed in Hungary. Actively
supported by sections of the Hungarian army, the revolutionaries attacked the AVH (secret
police) and Soviet soldiers, and the revolt spread nationwide. The Hungarian Communist
Party, fearing total collapse, gave in to a number of demands, and on 27 October invited
Imre Nagy to form a new government. However, on 4 November, thousands more Soviet
troops invaded Hungary and, despite fierce resistance, quickly crushed the revolution.

Revolutionaries with The enormous statue of Stalin that stood in
Captured Soviet Tank Budapest’s City Park (Városliget) was iconoclastically
torn down on 24 October by revolutionaries and
For a short time, the revolutionaries perhaps defines the finest moment of the revolution.
unquestionably had the upper hand
and initially Soviet troops stationed in
Hungary offered little resistance. It is
thought that some troops even sided
with the revolution. However, when the
Soviet army invaded on 4 November, it
did so to brutal effect, and an estimated
200,000 Hungarians fled the country
as refugees.

Bronze statue of Imre Nagy
Imre Nagy, Budapest
Captured by the Russians in World War I, Imre Nagy (1856–1958) fell
in with Russian Communists and emigrated to Russia at the war’s end.
Avoiding Stalin’s purges of the 1920s and 1930s, he became a leading
figure in the Communist international, the Comintern, and in 1944 was
sent to accompany the Red Army as it invaded Hungary. He became
the Hungarian prime minister in 1953 and pursued a reformist agenda
during his two-years in office. Following the uprising, Nagy briefly
returned to office in 1956, but after the Soviet invasion he was betrayed
by one of his closest friends, Romanian Communist Walter Roman.
He was arrested and taken to Snagov Monastery, near Bucharest in
Romania, where he was questioned, tried on camera, and then executed
in Budapest in 1958.

50  INTRODUCING HUNGARY

Goulash Communism, with limited collectivization The Hungarian road to socialism became
known – only slightly tongue-in-cheek –
The Long, Slow Process of Reform as “Goulash Communism”. An increasingly
relaxed approach to censorship reduced
In 1957 the Soviets appointed nominally the number of banned works, and
hardliner János Kádár as head of the HWP, expanded the number of intellectual
but the experience of the 1956 revolution works that were supported and tolerated.
had convinced Kádár that a return to Uniquely among Eastern Europeans,
Rákosi’s methods of the early 1950s would Hungarians were relatively free to travel
be counterproductive. He therefore abroad, though only after thorough
eased restrictions imposed by the Soviets, background checks. Currency regulations
announcing an amnesty for political further restricted foreign travel to
prisoners in 1960 and calling a halt to the privileged.
forced collectivization. The economy was
reorganized to accommodate a limited While the Kádár regime must be given
amount of private enterprise, and living some credit for successfully walking a
standards duly improved. By the end of very thin line between acceptable and
the 1960s Hungarians enjoyed easily the unacceptable reform, by the 1980s the
highest standard of living in the Soviet bloc. limitations of Goulash Communism
had become far too apparent. Economic
Yet, as the Soviet invasion of reformist reforms proved insufficient to ensure
Czechoslovakia in 1968 demonstrated, decent levels of growth, meaning that
there was a limit to the economic and foreign loans were needed in an attempt
political reforms that Moscow would to prop up falling living standards.
tolerate. The HWP’s monopoly on power,
and its subservient relationship with the Reformers in the HWP who believed only
Soviet Union, remained taboo subjects. further economic reform could preserve its
grip on power removed Kádár from office
in May 1988. Shortly afterwards, opposition
groups that had operated in semi-secrecy

Soviet soldiers participating in a ceremony to mark the
withdrawal of troops from Hungary

1963 Kádár grants 1968 Kádár announces formal, 1981 Director
freedom to most limited free-market reform, a István Szábo
remaining political policy that becomes known as receives an Oscar
prisoners in a wide- “Goulash Communism”. for his film
spread amnesty. Mefisto.

1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985

János Kádár 1968 Hungary takes 1974 Economist Nyers is 1987 Buda’s entire
(1912–89) part in the Warsaw forced out of the Politburo. Castle District is placed
Pact invasion of A return to central planning
Czechoslovakia. brings economic disaster, on UNESCO’s list of
and Nyers is reinstated. protected historical

monuments.

THE HISTORY OF HUNGARY  51

Proclamation of the Republic of Hungary in 1989 standards for many people dropped, and
unemployment reached almost 16 per cent
for years organized themselves into political in early 1994. As a result, the Socialists,
parties. In 1989 they organized mass promising a less dramatic transition to a
demonstrations throughout the country market economy, easily won the election
against the HWP’s monopoly on power. Led in 1994. Since then Hungary has seen its
by the Hungarian Democratic Forum (MDF), governments yo­yo between left and right.
the Alliance of Free Democrats (SZDSZ) and In 1998 Fidesz replaced the Socialists, only
the Federation of Young Democrats (Fidesz), for the latter to return to power in 2002.
the opposition held talks with the govern­ They narrowly won the 2006 general
ment in March 1989, and, although no election, though Prime Minister Ferenc
agreement was reached until autumn, the Gyurcsány’s admission of lying during
days of the one­party state were numbered. the campaign provoked weeks of protests.
On 23 October 1989, the country’s name was Gyurcsány refused to resign, however,
changed from Hungarian People’s Republic and the protests eventually died down.
to the Republic of Hungary, a symbolic move
confirming the replacement of the one­party A member of both NATO (2001) and the
system with a multi­party democracy. European Union (2004), the 2008 global
financial crisis hit Hungary hard. In 2010,
Fidesz swept to victory with a two­thirds
majority – the first party to govern outright
since the fall of Communism – and, despite
introducing deeply unpopular austerity
measures to rescue the ailing economy,
won emphatically again in 2014.

Hungary Since 1990 Hungary’s accession to the European Union, 2004

Hungary’s first post­Communist elections,
held in 1990, were won by the MDF. The
HWP took part as the Hungarian Socialist
Party (MSZP), but fared poorly. Árpád Göncz,
who had been sentenced to death for his
part in the 1956 revolution, was elected
president; he was to serve two five­year terms.

The 1990–94 government enacted
tough economic reform, including a
massive privatization programme. Living

1988 Kádár is Hungarian 2004 Hungary joins 2006 Gyurcsány 2010 Fidesz wins elections with a
forced to national the European Union and the Socialist two­thirds majority in Parliament.
resign by his emblem Party (MSZP) win
own party. after 1989 on 1 May. the elections. 2012 A new constitution is
introduced on 1 Jan 2012.

1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015

1989 In March a series of talks begins 1999 2002 Imre Kertész 2009 Ferenc 2014 Fidesz
that will see the HWP renounce its receives a Nobel Gyurcsány resigns wins all
monopoly in October. On 23 October, Hungary is prize for literature. and Gordon parliamentary,
the Republic of Hungary becomes the admitted Bajnai becomes municipal and
country’s official name. to NATO. prime minister. EP elections
with a landslide.
Ferenc Gyurcsány



BUDAPEST AREA
BY AREA

Budapest at a Glance 54–55

Castle District 56–69

Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79

Around Parliament 80–93

Central Pest 94–105

Further Afield 106–117

Shopping in Budapest 118–119

Entertainment in Budapest 120–121

Street Finder 122–127

54  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Budapest at a Glance Danube (Duna)
BALASSI BÁLINT U.
The centre of town includes Buda’s Castle Hill (district I) on the
western bank of the Danube and districts V, VI, VII, VIII and IX of
Pest on the river’s eastern bank, bounded by the city’s original
tram line. The Roman numerals denote the official administrative
districts. For the purposes of this guide, the centre of Budapest is
divided into four areas. Each area has its own chapter containing
a selection of the most interesting sights that convey its character
and history. Sights on the outskirts of the city are covered in
a separate chapter.

Országház KOSSUTH
Parliament LAJOS
TÉR

MÁTRAY U. VÁRFOSZKAUB.Ó ILONKA U. Kossuth
Lajos tér

KAPISZTRÁN CASTLE SZABÓ ILONKA U. SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
TÉR

DISTRICT SZNÉYCIHUE.-

ATTILA Mátyás templom
Mátyás Church

Déli ÚT ÚRI U. TÁRNO

pályaudvar LOGODI U. K U. HUNJ.YÚATD. I SZÉCHENYI
DÍSZ SZE TÉR
Vérmező TÉR
Széchenyi lánchíd
MIKÓ U.
FESZTY Á. U. NT CLARK

KOSCIUSZKO T. U. KRISZ- ALAGÚT U. ÁDÁMGYÖRGY BELGRÁD
ÁG U. TINA TÉR
TÉR U. BUDAI
RÓKA U. VÁRALJA LÁNCHÍD U.
KRISZTIN ATTILA U.
NAPHEGY U.
ÚT A Budavári Palota
LISZNYAI U. KÖRÚT Royal Palace
FENYŐ ALSÓ
MÉSZÁROS U.
GYŐZŐ U.
Royal Palace TIGRIS U. DERÉK U. SZARVAS DRÖABKRPEANRTETI U.
The Royal Palace has been destroyed and TÉR
painstakingly rebuilt many times. It was
last meticulously reconstructed after U. DÖB-
World War II, to the form that the RENTEI
Habsburgs had given it (see pp44–5). ALSÓHEGY U.
CZAKÓ U. TÉR

ÁNC U.A ÚT
ZSOLT U.
GEHLILLÉLRTH Y A L J S

E G OROM U.

AND TABÁNSOML ÓI ÚT MIHÁLY U. S
T Gellért-
GYULA U. ZIRTES ÚTD S ZIRTES Ú hegy
SZÁM A
Ó U.
SOMLKÓEILÚETNHEGYI ÚT

KE
L E NHEGYI
ÚT
MÉNESI ÚT SOMLÓI ÚT MIN ERVA U.

SZÜRET U.

ALOGH MÉNESI ÚT
Ő LEJT
B

FADRUSZ U.VILLÁNYI ÚT

Liberation Monument
This statue of a woman holding aloft the palm
of victory was created by the Hungarian sculptor
Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl. Situated in a park on
Gellért Hill, the monument is visible from all

over the city, and so it has become one
of the symbols of Budapest (see p76).

Hungary’s Parliament, the largest building in the country

BUDAPEST AT A GLANCE  55

KATONA JÓSEF U. Parliament
SZT. ISTVÁN This magnificent building hosts the

BALATON U. sessions of the Deputy Council
Chamber. It is also the location

of Hungary’s most important
government offices, including those

of the prime minister (see pp84–5).

KÖRÚT NYUGATI
TÉR

MARKÓ U. NAGY IGNÁC U. Nyugati U.
DESSEWFFY U.pályaudvar

BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT PODMANICZKY T U. ARADI U.
EÖTVÖS
HONVÉD U. E

ALKOTMÁNY U. RÉZ U.
IZABELLA
JÓKAI

BÁTHORY U. HOLD U. NAGYMEZŐ KÖRÚT Vörösmarty
utca
U.
KIRÁLY U.
AROUND U. U. Oktogon
Ó
NÁDOR U.PARLIAMENTBANK U. EÖTVÖS U.
AJárnaonsy uSt. aMteaOOgOppyepaerreraarÁahlálHazmouiAsNePDARUÁLASYSYEDEÚTU.
ARANY JÁNOS U. LISZT F.
TÉR

NÁDOR U. HERCEGPRÍMÁS U. Szt. István bazilika CSÁNYI E R Z S É B EKTERTKÉSZÖU.R Ú T
St Stephen’s Basilica KIS
Bajcsy-
ZRÍNYI U. U. Key
DIÓFA Major sight

Zsilinszky út U.

JÓZSEF ATTILA U. tér KIRÁRLYUMU.BACH NAGY
BÁRCZY I KÁROLY KÖ
Vörösmarty ERZSÉBET GERLÓCZY U.Deák DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U.
tér TÉR Ferenc
DOB U.
. U. S. U. WESSELÉNYI U. BLAHA
LUJZA
DEÁK FERENC U. RÁK ÓDCOZHÁINY U. T
TÉR
RÚT Ú Blaha

Lujza tér

PETŐFI S. U. SZENTKIRÁLYI U. SOMOGYI B. U.
VÁCI U. PUSKIN U.

RAKPART
CEPNETSRTALRÉGIPOSTA U. Astoria

Ferenciek KOSSLU.TUH. MÚMZAEGUYMAR BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
tere
KÁROLYI U. KÖRÚT Magyar JÓZEF KÖRÚT
SSZAAJBTAÓDÚT U. Nemzeti Múzeum
VEREZ PÁLNÉ U. Hungarian National
Erzsébet híd Museum
SZERB U. KÁLVIN
Kálvin TÉR BARROS U. 0 metres 500
tér 0 yards 500
SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART SZABÓ E.
TÉR ÜLLŐI ÚT
VÁCI U.
FŐTVÉARMVÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT MÁRIA U.
GÖNCZY P. U.
Szabadság híd Fővám tér RÁDAY KŐZTELEK U. Corvin
SZT. Negyed
CSARNOK MÁTYÁS U. U.
TÉR
LÓNYAI U. KÖZRAKTÁR U. KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
GELLÉRT
GYI ÚT TÉR Szent Danube ( F ERENC KÖRÚT
KELENHE Gellért tér

Gellért gyógyfürdö Duna) BÁKATS U.
és szálló

Gellért Hotel
and Baths Complex
M ÁNYO K I ÚT
BÉLA ÚT

BARTÓK

Váci Street
This pedestrianized street is a favourite
strolling promenade, with designer and
souvenir shops, cafés and pubs (see pp96–7).

For additional keys to symbols see back flap



BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  57

CASTLE DISTRICT

The hill town of Buda grew up around its castle evolution of Buda but it was neglected under
and Mátyás Church from the 13th century Turkish rule and then destroyed by Christian
onwards. The hill’s fine strategic position, troops. Under the Habsburgs, the town was
at 60 m (197 ft) above the Danube, and its reborn, however, and assumed an important
natural resources made it a prize site. In role during the 18th and 19th centuries. By
the 13th century, a large settlement arose the end of World War II, the old town had
when King Béla IV decided to build his own been almost utterly destroyed and the Royal
defensive castle and establish his capital here. Palace burned to the ground. Since the war,
The reign of King Mátyás Corvinus in the both the district and the palace have been
15th century was an important period in the restored to their former glory.

Sights at a Glance 0 The Hungarian House Palaces, Historic Buildings
p Museum of Military History and Monuments
Churches s Hospital in the Rock
3 Mátyás Fountain
w Mátyás Church pp66–7 Historic Streets and Squares 5 Sándor Palace
u Buda Lutheran Church 6 Tunnel
i Church of St Mary 7 Parade Square q Fisherman’s Bastion
9 Holy Trinity Square e Hilton Budapest Hotel
Magdalene r András Hess Square
t Mihály Táncsics Street
Museums and Galleries y Vienna Gate Square
o Parliament Street
1 Budapest History Museum a Lords’ Street
2 National Széchényi Library
4 Hungarian National Gallery

see pp62–3
8 Golden Eagle Pharmacy

Museum

MÁTRAY U. ÚT SZABÓ ILONKA U.
LO VA S HUNFALVY U.

LO VA KAPISZTRÁN KARD U.FORTÁTUNNCASUIC. SBSÉAMTB.AITNSYM. SZABÓ ILONKA U.
LO G O D I TÉR GIMN ÁZ I U M
U.
S
U

ÚT ÚRI U. O RDSÁZRÁDAG HU.ÁFSOZZRETUUNKN.T.AHÁROMSÁG U.
. TÉR

KORLÁT U. VÁR HU NYADI See also Street Finder
maps 1 & 3
LOVAS ÚT JÁNO S ÚT
TÁRNOK U. CLARK ÁDÁM
LOGODI U. ÚRI U. TÉR

PALO TA Ú T DÍSZ
TÉR

F

SZT. GYÖRGY D
TÉR RIE

DaL ÁRnNI CuCHHbÍBeDOUR.N

PALOTA ÚT R.

0 metres 400
0 yards 400

Intricate stonework and polychrome roof tiles on the Mátyás Church For keys to map symbols see back flap

58  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA SZÍNHÁZ U

Street-by-Street: The Royal Palace SZT GYÖRGY U

The Royal Palace has experienced many incarnations
during its long life. Even now it is not known exactly
where King Béla IV began building his castle, though
it is thought to be nearer the site of Mátyás Church
(see pp66–7). The Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of
Luxembourg built a Gothic palace on the present site,
from which today’s castle began to evolve. In the
18th century, the Habsburgs built their monumental
palace here. The current form dates from the
rebuilding of the 19th-century palace after its
destruction in February 1945. During this work,
remains of the 15th-century Gothic palace were
exposed and Hungarian archaeologists decided
to reveal the recovered defensive walls and royal
chambers in the reconstruction.

5 Sándor Palace

An ornamental gateway,
dating from 1903, leads to
the Habsburg Steps and the

Royal Palace. Nearby, a
bronze sculpture of the
mythical turul bird guards

the palace. This statue
marked the millennium
anniversary of the Magyar

conquest in 896.

3 . Mátyás Fountain
In the northern courtyard of the Royal Palace
stands the Mátyás Fountain. It was designed by
Alajos Stróbl in 1904 and depicts King Mátyás
Corvinus and his beloved Ilonka.

The Lion Gate, leading to
a rear courtyard of the
Royal Palace, gets its

name from the four lions
that watch over it. These
sculptures were designed
by János Fadrusz in 1901.

1255 First written c.1400 Sigismund 1541 After 1719 The building of 1881 The architect
document, a letter of Luxembourg capturing Buda, the a small palace begins Miklós Ybl begins
by King Béla IV, builds an ambitious Turks use the Royal on the ruins of the old programme to
refers to building a Gothic palace on Palace to stable palace, to a design rebuild and expand
fortified castle this site horses and store by Hölbling and the Royal Palace
gunpowder Fortunato de Prati
Turul
1200 1400 1600 1800 bird

c.1356 Louis I builds a 1686 The assault by Christian 1849 Royal Palace is
royal castle on the soldiers leaves the palace destroyed again,
southern slopes of during an unsuc­
Castle Hill completely razed to the ground cessful attack by

1458 A Renaissance palace evolves 1749 Maria Theresa builds a vast Hungarian insurgents
under King Mátyás palace comprising 203 chambers

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–9 and pp276–85

The dome of the Royal Palace CASTLE DISTRICT  59 Danube
was rebuilt in the Neo-Classical
CASTLE
style after the Neo-Baroque DISTRICT
dome, designed by
Alajos Hauszmann, was GELLÉRT
destroyed in the razing HILL AND
of the palace during
World War II. TABÁN

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1

A statue of Prince Eugene of
Savoy, by József Róna, was unveiled
in 1900. It commemorates the

Battle of Zenta in 1697, victory
at which was a turning point in

the Turkish war. The bas-reliefs
on the base depict scenes
from the battle. Two Turkish
prisoners cower by the feet
of the prince.

4 . Hungarian National Gallery
Artworks depicting Hungary’s turbulent history

are displayed here. Periods of both foreign
domination and patriotic home rule are brought
to life through the gallery’s extensive collection.

0 metres 50
0 yards 50

2 National 1 Budapest Building the Royal Palace
Széchényi Library History Museum
In the early 15th century, a Gothic Royal
Palace was built on the site, but it was rebuilt
in the Renaissance style by King Mátyás in 1458.
After the Turkish occupation it was razed and
reborn on a smaller scale. Maria Theresa further
developed the palace and it was rebuilt again
after World War II to a design originally
completed in 1905.

Key 15th century 1749
Suggested route 1719 1905

60  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Fifteenth-century Renaissance majolica floor, uncovered during excavations on Castle Hill 1985, in the Royal Palace
and displayed at the Budapest History Museum Building “F”, built in 1890–1902
by Alajos Hauszmann and
1 Castle Museum dating from the 14th and 15th Miklós Ybl (see p93). Among
(Budapest History centuries. On the first floor, the the national library’s most
Museum) permanent exhibition “Budapest precious treasures are 35 pieces
– Light and Shadow” leads the from the Bibliotheca Corviniana,
Budapesti Történeti Múzeum visitor through the millennia a collection of ancient books
that formed the Hungarian and manuscripts that originally
Vármúzeuma capital, the River Danube acting belonged to King Mátyás
as a guide through periods Corvinus (see pp40–41). His
Szent György tér 2, Royal Palace of war and peace, prosperity collection was one of the largest
Building “E”. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 487 88 and decline. Renaissance libraries in Europe.
71. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18. Also of importance are the
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; 2 National earliest-surviving records in
Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & Széchényi Library the Hungarian language, dating
7 fee ∑ btm.hu from the early 13th century.
Országos Széchényi Könyvtár
Since Budapest’s unification in Szent György tér 6, Royal Palace The library was established
1873, historic artifacts relating Building “F”. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 224 37 by Count Ferenc Széchényi in
to the city have been collected 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18. 1802, who endowed it with
and many are on show at the Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sat. Closed 35,000 books and manuscripts.
Budapest History Museum. mid- Jul–mid-Aug. ∑ oszk.hu Now comprising nine million
A superb collection of books, items, the library’s primary task
During the rebuilding that manuscripts, maps, engravings, is to collect everything published
followed the destruction suffered posters, photographs and sheet in Hungary, in the Hungarian
in World War II, chambers dating music has been housed, since language, by a Hungarian author,
from the Middle Ages were uncov- or that refers to Hungary.
ered in the south wing (Building“E”) Corvinian illuminated manuscript
of the Royal Palace. They provide in the National Széchényi Library Crest on the Lion Gate, adjacent to the
an insight into the character of a Mátyás Fountain
much earlier castle within today’s
Habsburg reconstruction. 3 Mátyás Fountain

These rediscovered chambers, Mátyás kút
including a tiny prison cell and a
chapel, were recreated in the base- Royal Palace. Map 1 B5.
ment of the palace. They now @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18.
house an exhibition, the Royal
Palace in medieval Buda, which The ornate fountain in the
displays various interesting items, northernmost courtyard of
including authentic weapons, the Royal Palace (between
seals, tiles and other early artifacts. Buildings “A” and “C”) was
designed by Alajos Stróbl in
On the ground and first floor, 1904. The statue is dedicated
exhibits testify to the history of to the great Renaissance king,
Buda castle from 1686 to the Mátyás, about whom there
present. On the ground floor are are many legends and fables.
Gothic statues from the Royal
Palace and a tapestry with the The Romantic design of the
Hungarian–Angevin coat-of-arms, bronze sculptures takes its
theme from a 19th-century
ballad by the poet Mihály
Vörösmarty. According to the
tale, King Mátyás, while on a

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CASTLE DISTRICT  61

hunting expedition, meets a The imposing entrance to the tunnel on Clark Ádám tér
beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
who falls in love with him, elevation depicts Greek gods on The entrance on Clark Ádám
but their love is doomed. This Mount Olympus. The south side tér is flanked by two pairs
representation shows King shows Count Sándor being of Doric columns. The square in
Mátyás disguised as hunter, knighted, and the northern front of the tunnel is the city’s
standing proudly with his kill. façade features a 1934 sculpture official centre because of the
He is accompanied by his chief of St George by Zsigmond location here of the Zero
hunter and several hunting Kisfaludi Strobl. Kilometre Stone, from which all
dogs in the central part of the distances from Budapest are
fountain. Below the left-hand Sándor Palace functioned as calculated.
columns sits Galeotto Marzio, the prime minister’s official
an Italian court poet, and the residence from 1867 to 1944, The tunnel’s western entrance
figure of the young Ilonka is when it was severely damaged was originally ornamented with
below the columns on the right. in World War II. It has been Egyptian motifs. However, it
completely restored and is now was rebuilt without these
In keeping with the romantic the official residence of the details after it was damaged in
reputation of King Mátyás, a President of Hungary. World War II.
new tradition has grown up
concerning this statue. The
belief is that anyone wishing
to revisit Budapest should
throw a coin into the fountain
to ensure their safe return.

4 Hungarian
National Gallery

Magyar Nemzeti Galéria

See pp62–3.

5 Sándor Palace 6 Tunnel 7 Parade Square

Sándor-palota Alagút Dísz tér

Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 B5. Clark Ádám tér. Map 1 C5. Map 1 B5.
@ 16, 16A, 116. Open only on special @ 16, 86. @ 16, 16A, 116.
occasions. ∑ keh.hu

By the top of the cog-wheel The Scottish engineer Adam In the past, Parade Square was
railway stands the grand Clark settled in Hungary a marketplace and a site of
Neo-Classical mansion, Sándor after completing the Chain execution. It is named after the
Palace. It was commissioned Bridge. One of his later military parades that were held
in 1806 by Count Vincent projects, in 1853–7, was here in the 19th century. At the
Sándor from architects Mihály the construction of the northern end of the square is
Pollack and Johann Aman. tunnel that runs right through the Honvéd Monument, built in
Castle Hill, from Clark Ádám 1893 by György Zala. It honours
The bas-reliefs that decorate tér to Krisztinaváros. The and commemorates those
the palace are the work of tunnel is 350 m (1,150 ft) who died during the recapture
Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco long, 9 m (30 ft) wide and of Buda from Austria in the
and Tamás Körössényi. The 11 m (36 ft) in height. 1848 revolution.
decoration on the western
The two-floor Baroque palace
The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace at No. 3 was the home of the
Batthyány family until 1945.
It was built between 1743
and 1748 by József Giessl,
and, although it has been
frequently remodelled, the
façade remains intact.

A few houses on Parade
Square incorporate medieval
remains. Examples can be seen
at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11, built by
Venerio Ceresola. The former
has seat niches dating from
the 13th century.

62  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

4 Hungarian National Gallery St Anne Altarpiece (c.1520)
This elaborately decora-
Established in 1957, the Hungarian National ted folding altarpiece
Gallery houses a comprehensive collection from Kisszeben is one
of Hungarian art from medieval times to of the gallery’s
the 20th century. Gathered by various groups Gothic highlights.
and institutions since 1839, these works had
previously been exhibited at the Hungarian
National Museum (see pp102–3) and the Museum
of Fine Arts (see p110). The collection now
occupies four wings (A, B, C and D) of the Royal
Palace. There are eight permanent exhibitions,
which present the most valuable and critically
acclaimed Hungarian art in the world.

Madonna of Toporc (c. 1420)
This is a captivating example of

medieval wood sculpture in the
Gothic style. It was originally
crafted for a church in
Spiz (now part of Slovakia).

First floor

Madonna of Bártfa Wing D Ground Wing C
(1465–70) floor Main entrance

This painting of Virgin Key
and Child is from a
Medieval and Renaissance stone carvings
church in Bártfa (now in Panel paintings and wooden sculptures
Slovakia). It is thought from the Gothic period
Late Gothic winged altarpieces
to have been painted in Late Renaissance and Baroque art
Krakow, Poland. 19th-century paintings, sculptures and medals
Paintings, sculptures and medals 1900–1945
. The Visitation Hungarian art post-1945
(1506) Mihály Munkácsy and The Realism of the End
of the 19th Century
This painting by Master Temporary exhibition space
MS is a delightful

example of late Gothic
Hungarian art. It is a

fragment of a folding
altarpiece from a

church in Selmecbánya
in modern-day Slovakia.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CASTLE DISTRICT  63

Luischen (1884) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of the earliest works by the sculptor
Alajos Stróbl is this marble bust of a young Practical Information
girl who was to become his wife. Buda Palace, Wings A, B, C, D,
Szent György tér 2. Map 3 1B/C.
Third floor Woman Bathing Tel (1) 439 73 25. Open 10am–
(1901) 6pm Tue–Sun (last ticket 5pm).
This painting by & 8 call to arrange for an
Károly Lotz is the English-speaking guide, (1) 201
finest example of 90 82. = - ∑ mng.hu
Neo-Classical
painting in Hungary. Transport
It reflects his @ 16, 16A, 116.
fascination for the
work of the French Gallery Guide
painter, Ingres.
Early stone and Gothic exhibits
are on the ground floor.
Late Gothic, Renaissance
and Baroque works and
19th-century works share the
first floor. Works from the early
20th century are on the second
floor, and the most modern
pieces are on the third floor.

Second
floor

Wing B Churning Woman (1872–3)
Wing A This painting is by Mihály
Munkácsy, Hungary’s most
internationally celebrated artist. The
tiredness of the woman’s features
with her worn hands show the
reality of a life of poverty.

. Picnic in May (1873)
The captivating colours of this
landscape scene were painted

by Pál Szinyei Merse. He was
influenced by two works of
Edouard Manet and Claude Monet,
both entitled Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe.

64  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

8 Golden Eagle of holy figures and at the beautiful interior is also used
Pharmacy Museum summit is a magnificent for cultural events and, while
composition of the figures of parts of the exhibition may be
Arany Sas Patikamúzeum the Holy Trinity. The central unfamiliar to non-Hungarians,
section of the column is the regular performances of
Tárnok utca 18. Map 1 B5. decorated with angelic figures music and dance held here
Tel (1) 375 97 72. @ 16 from Deák tér, surrounded by clouds. need no translation.
16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5:30pm Tue– Buda’s Old Town Hall, a large A statue of St István in front of the
Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–3:30pm Tue–Fri, Baroque building with two Fisherman’s Bastion
10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. courtyards, was also built on
the square at the beginning q Fisherman’s
This pharmacy was opened of the 18th century. It was Bastion
in 1688 by Ferenc Ignác designed by the imperial
Bösinger and traded under court architect, Venerio Halászbástya
the name “The Golden Eagle” Ceresola, whose architectural Szentháromság tér. Map 1 B5. @ 16
from 1740. It moved to this scheme incorporated the from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll
originally Gothic building, remains of medieval houses. Kálmán tér. Open 1 May–15 Oct: 9am–
with a Baroque interior and In 1770–74, an east wing was 8pm (16 Mar–30 Apr: to 7pm). &
Neo-Classical façade, in the built, and bay windows and a Frigyes Schulek designed this
18th century. The museum stone balustrade with Rococo Neo-Romanesque monument
opened in 1974 and displays urns, by Mátyás Nepauer, were to the Guild of Fishermen in
pharmaceutical items from the also added. The corner niche, 1895. It occupies the site of
Renaissance and Baroque eras. opposite Mátyás Church, Buda’s old defensive walls and
houses a small statue of the a medieval square where fish
9 Holy Trinity Greek goddess Pallas Athene was once sold. The bastion is
Square by Carlo Adami. a purely aesthetic addition to
Castle Hill and boasts fine views
Szentháromság tér 0 The Hungarian of the Danube. In front of it is
House a statue of St István.
Map 1 B5. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. Magyarság Háza w Mátyás Church

This square is the central point Szentháromság tér 6. Map 1 B5. Mátyás templom
of the old town. It takes its Tel (1) 795 26 19. @ 16 from Deák tér, See pp66–7.
name from the Baroque Holy 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
Trinity Column, originally Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. 8 &
sculpted by Philipp Ungleich in 7 ∑ magyarsaghaza.net
1710–13 and restored in 1967.
The column commemorates On the north side of Holy Trinity
the dead of two outbreaks of Square, this cultural institute
plague that struck the people houses an exhibition that
of Buda in 1691 and 1709. celebrates all manner of
Hungarian achievements in the
The pedestal of the column arts, sciences, engineering and
is decorated with bas-reliefs by
Anton Hörger, depicting the sport. The building looks
horrific fate Buda’s citizens medieval but in fact was
suffered during these only built in the early
epidemics. Further up the
ornate column are statues 20th century, in a
Neo-Gothic style. The

Buda’s Old Town Hall, its clock tower crowned with an onion-shaped dome, on Holy Trinity Square
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CASTLE DISTRICT  65

r András Hess
Square

Hess András tér

Map 1 B4. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.

Bas-relief depicting King Mátyás on the This square is named after the The Museum of Musical History on Mihály
Hilton Budapest Hotel’s façade Italian­trained printer who Táncsics Street
printed the first Hungarian
e Hilton Budapest book, Chronica Hungarorum, in a on three sides. Like many
Hotel printing works at No. 4 in 1473. houses on this street, it was
The house was rebuilt at the erected on the ruins of medieval
Hilton Szálloda end of the 17th century, houses. In 1800, Ludwig van
amalgamating three medieval Beethoven, who was then
Hess András tér 1–3. Map 1 B4. Tel (1) houses, with quadruple seat giving concerts in Budapest,
889 66 00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, niches, barrel­vaulted cellars resided here for a short time.
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. 7 and ornamental gates.
The palace now houses the
Built in 1976, the Hilton Buda­ The former inn at No. 3 was Museum of Musical History and
pest Hotel is a rare example of named the Red Hedgehog in the Béla Bartók archives. A
modern architecture in the old 1696. This one­floor building permanent exhibition illustrates
town. Controversial from the has surviving Gothic and musical life in Budapest from
outset, the design by the Baroque elements. the 18th to 20th centuries, and
Hungarian architect Béla Pintér includes some of the oldest­
combines the historic remains The square also features a surviving Hungarian musical
of the site with contemporary statue by József Damkó of Pope instruments.
materials and methods. Innocent XI, who was involved
in organizing the armies that The Royal Mint stood on the
From 1254 a Dominican recaptured Buda from the site of No. 9 during the Middle
church, to which a tower was Turks. It was built to mark the Ages and, in 1810, the Joseph
later added, stood on this site, 250th anniversary of the Barracks were built here.
followed by a late Baroque liberation, in 1936. These were later used by the
Jesuit monastery. The remains Habsburgs to imprison leaders
of both buildings are incorpor­ t Mihály Táncsics of the 1848–9 rebellion, includ­
ated into the new hotel. The Street ing Mihály Táncsics.
ruins of the medieval church,
for example, uncovered during Táncsics Mihály utca Relics of Buda’s Jewish
excavations in 1902, form part heritage can be found at Nos.
of the Dominican Courtyard, Táncsics Mihály utca 7. Map 1 A/B4. 23 and 26. The remains of
where concerts and operettas @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 a 15th­century synagogue
are staged in summer. from Széll Kálmán tér. Museum of stand in the garden of No. 23.
Musical History: Tel (1) 214 67 70. During excavations, tombs and
The main façade comprises Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. ∑ zti.hu religious items were found in
part of the façade of the Jesuit the courtyard of No. 26.
monastery. To the left of the Erdődy Palace was built in
entrance is St Nicholas’s Tower. 1750–69 for the Erdődy family
In 1930, a replica of a 15th­ by Mátyás Nepauer, the leading
century German bas­relief of architect of the day. It features
King Mátyás, considered to be outstanding Baroque façades
his most authentic likeness,
was added to this tower. King István I

Born in Esztergom in 975, Vajk (Hero), the son
of Géza, was baptized at the age of 10 and
chose the name István (Stephen). He succeeded
his father as Prince and in 1000 was
crowned Catholic king of Hungary –
the Vatican signalled its approval
by sending what became known
as the crown of St István. A devout
man, István set about Christianizing
Hungary, founding bishoprics,
cathedrals and abbeys. He died in 1038,
and was canonized by Pope Gregory VII
as St István of Hungary in 1083.

66  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA Rose Window
Frigyes Schulek faithfully
w Mátyás Church reproduced the medieval
stained-glass window that
The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was built was in this position during
on this site between the 13th and 15th the early Gothic era.
centuries. Some of the architectural style dates
from the reign of Sigismund of Luxembourg,
but the church’s name refers to King Mátyás
Corvinus, who greatly enlarged and embellished
it. Much of the original detail was lost when
the Turks converted the church into the Great
Mosque in 1541. With the liberation of Buda,
modifications were made by the Jesuits as part
of the restoration process, largely in the Baroque
style. The church again sustained damage in
1723, and was restored in the Neo-Gothic style
by Frigyes Schulek in 1873–96. The gallery
rooms house the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art.

Béla Tower
This tower is named after the
church’s founder, King Béla IV.
It has retained several of its
original Gothic features.

. Baroque Madonna
According to legend, the
original statue was set into a
wall of the church during the
Turkish occupation. When that
wall was destroyed in 1686, the
Madonna miraculously
appeared. The Turks took this
as an omen of defeat.

KEY Main Portal
Below the arches of
1 The roof is decorated with the west entrance is a
multicoloured glazed tiles. 19th-century bas-relief of
the Virgin and Child
2 The main altar, created by between two angels. The
Frigyes Schulek, was based on pyrogranite ceramics
Gothic triptychs. were made by Zsolnay.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CASTLE DISTRICT  67

. Tomb of King Béla III VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and Anne de Châtillon
The remains of this royal Practical Information
couple were transferred from Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
Székesfehérvár Cathedral to Tel (20) 959 44 19. Open 9am–
Mátyás Church in 1860. They lie 5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat,
beneath an ornamental stone 1–5pm Sun (opening times
canopy in the Trinity Chapel. may vary due to religious and
cultural events; call ahead to
check). 7 &

Transport
@ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A &
116 from Széll Kálmán tér

Pulpit
The richly decorated
pulpit includes the
carved stone figures
of the four Fathers of
the Church and the
four Evangelists.

Stained-Glass Windows
Three arched windows
on the south elevation
have beautiful
19th-century stained
glass. They were
designed by Frigyes
Schulek, Bertalan

Székely and Károly Lotz.

. Mary Portal
This depiction of the Assumption of
the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
magnificent example of Gothic
stone carving in Hungary. Frigyes
Schulek reconstructed the
portal from fragments.

c. 1370 Church 1464 Thanksgiving Mass 1686 After liberation Holy figures on
redesigned following the election of of Buda from Turkish the pulpit
as Gothic Mátyás Corvinus as king rule, the church is
hall-church restored with a 2014 Full
1541 Turks Baroque interior reconstruction
under Louis I convert church of the building
into a mosque completed

1250 1350 1450 1550 1650 1750 1850 1950 2050

1309 Coronation 1526 Cathedral 1896 Frigyes Schulek completes 1970 Final details
of the Angevin burned in the first the reconstruction of the church are completed in
king Charles Robert attack by Turks postwar rebuilding
in the Neo-Gothic style programme
1255 Church originally 1470 Mátyás Tower
founded by King Béla IV is completed after 1945 Church is severely damaged by
after the Mongol invasion its collapse in 1384 German and Russian armies

68  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

subsequently took possession
and during their time added a
Baroque church and a tower.

After suffering serious air-raid
damage in World War II, all but
the Franciscan tower and gate
were pulled down. These now
stand in a garden, together
with the reconstructed single
Gothic window.

o Parliament Street

Vienna Gate, rebuilt in 1936, commemorating the liberation of Buda Országház utca

y Vienna Gate u Buda Lutheran Map 1 A4–B4/5.
Square Church
This street was once inhabited
Bécsi kapu tér Budavári Evangélikus templom by the Florentine artisans and
craftsmen who were working

Map 1 A4. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, Táncsics Mihály utca 28. Map 1 A4. on King Mátyás’s Royal Palace
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. Tel (1) 356 97 36. @ 16 from Deák (see pp58–9), and so it was
tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán known for a time as Italian
The square takes its name from tér. 7 Street. Its present name comes

the gate that once led from the The Neo-Classical Lutheran from the building at No. 28,
walled town of Buda towards Church was built in 1896 by Mór where the Hungarian State
Vienna. After being damaged Parliament and Budapest

several times, the old gate was Kallina. A plaque commemorates High Court met from 1790
demolished in 1896. The current
gate, based on a historic the evangelical pastor Gábor to 1807. This building was

Sztéhló, who saved some 2,000 designed in the 18th century

design, was erected in 1936 on Jewish children and adults by the architect Franz Anton
Hillebrandt as a convent for the
the 250th anniversary of the during World War II. Poor Clares. However, Emperor

liberation of Buda from the Turks. At one time, a painting by

The square has a number of Bertalan Székely, called Christ Joseph II dissolved the order
interesting houses. Those at Blessing the Bread, adorned the before the building was
Nos. 5, 6, 7 and 8 were built on altar, but unfortunately it was completed. The Great Hall is

the ruins of medieval dwellings. destroyed during the war. beautifully restored.
They are Baroque and Rococo in Numerous buildings on
design and feature sculptures i Church of
and bas-reliefs. The façade of St Mary Magdalene Parliament Street have retained
No. 7 has medallions with the Gothic and Baroque features.
portraits of Classical philosophers Mária Magdolna templom No. 2 Országház utca, now
with a Neo-Classical façade,

and poets; Thomas Mann, the Kapisztrán tér 6. Map 1 A4. @ 16 is the site of the Alabárdos
German novelist, lodged here from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 from restaurant, but the building’s
in 1935–6. No. 8, however, Széll Kálmán tér. history dates back to the
is differentiated by its bay
late 13th century. In the

windows, attics and the restored Now in ruins, this church 15th century, Sigismund
medieval murals on its façade. was built in the mid-13th of Luxembourg built a

On the left-hand side of century. During the Middle Gothic mansion here, and
the square is a vast Neo- Ages, Hungarian Christians some details, such as the
Romanesque building with a worshipped here because colonnade around the

beautiful multicoloured roof, Mátyás Church was only courtyard and the murals
built in 1913–20 by Samu for use by the town’s on the second floor, have
Pecz. This building houses the German population. survived until today. The

National Archive, which holds The church did not entrance to No. 9 features
documents dating from before
the battle of Mohács in 1526, become a mosque until the Gothic traceried
and others connected with
the Rákóczi and Kossuth the second half of seat niches that were
uprisings (see pp44–5).
the Turkish occu- popular in Buda at
Behind the Vienna Gate
Square is a monument built in pation, but it was this time. In front of
honour of Mihály Táncsics, the
leader of the Autumn Uprising. severely damaged the Neo-Classical
It was unveiled in 1970.
in 1686, during house at No. 21

the liberation of stands a statue of

Buda from the the famous actor

Turks. An order of The reconstructed Baroque tower of Márton Lendvay

Franciscan monks the Church of St Mary Magdalene (1807–58).

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CASTLE DISTRICT  69

The façade of the Museum of much of their original medieval s Hospital in
Military History character. Almost all have some the Rock
remnant of a Gothic gateway
p Museum of or hall, while the façades are Sziklakórház
Military History Baroque or Neo­Classical.
Lovas út 4/c. Map 1 A5. Tel (70)
Hadtörténeti Múzeum An excellent example of 701 01 01. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
a Gothic façade can be seen 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
Kapisztrán tér 2–4, entrance from Tóth on Hölbling House at No. 31. Open 10am– 8pm daily. & 8
Árpád sétány. Map 1 A4. Tel (1) 325 16 Enough of its original features ∑ sziklakorhaz.hu
00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 survived the various wars and
from Széll Kálmán tér. Open Apr–Sep: renovations to enable architects Connected to the network
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– to reconstruct the façade in of caves under Buda Castle,
4pm Tue–Sun. 8 ∑ militaria.hu considerable detail. The first­ the Hospital in the Rock is an
floor window is a particularly atmospheric sight where
The museum is located in a wing splendid Gothic feature. The visitors can learn about the
of the former Palatine barracks. houses opposite are also history of Hungary through­
It houses a wide range of military examples of restoration work. out the mid­20th century.
items relating to the skirmishes In 1944–5 the caves were used
and wars that have afflicted The building at No. 53 was as an emergency military
Budapest from before the Turkish rebuilt between 1701 and 1722 hospital and air­raid shelter,
occupation to the 20th century. as a Franciscan monastery, providing treatment and refuge
Uniforms, flags, weapons, maps but in 1789 it was restyled for for thousands of people during
and ammunition from as far use by Emperor Joseph II. In the siege of Budapest. During
back as the 11th century give an 1795, Hungarian Jacobites, the revolution in 1956 it was
insight into the long, turbulent led by Ignác Martinovics, were again used as a hospital. A
history of Budapest. imprisoned here; a plaque nuclear bunker was added
records this event. A well, during the Cold War, the
Of particular interest is featuring a copy of a sculpture existence of which was only
the exhibition concerning the by Praxiteles of Artemis, the made public in 2010.
1956 Revolution. Photographs Greek goddess of hunting, was
illustrate the demonstrations set in front of the house in 1873. Many pieces of the original
that ended in a Soviet invasion, medical equipment are on
the execution of the prime The Telephone Museum, display. There are presentations
minister and a great number at No. 49, is housed in the on the history of the city,
of civilian deaths (see pp48–9). city’s first telephone exchange, information on the 1956
established in 1881. It is an Revolution and the Cold War,
enjoyable interactive museum, along with wax figures, all
centred around a huge switch­ bringing this unique sight to
board with exhibits on the life. The guided tour (approx.
history of telephony. 60 mins) is compulsory.

a Lords’ Street

Úri utca

Map1 A4 – B5. @ 16 from Deák
tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán
tér. Telephone Museum: Tel (30) 986
29 03. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
∑ postamuzeum.hu

The buildings in Lords’ Street, or Lords’Street, or Úri utca, which runs the full length of the old town
Úri utca, were destroyed first in
1686 and again in 1944. Recon­
struction in 1950–60 restored



BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  71

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN

Rising steeply beside the Danube, Gellért recalls the fate and martyrdom of Bishop
Hill is one of the city’s most attractive areas. Gellért, who tried to convert the unwilling
From the top, at a height of 140 m (460 ft), locals to Christianity. In 1046, they threw
a beautiful view of the whole of Budapest the bishop from the hill to his death in a
unfolds. The Celtic Eravi, who preceded the sealed barrel. Gellért Hill bulges out slightly
Romans, formed their settlement on the hill’s into the Danube, which narrows at this point.
northern slope (see p78). Once called simply This made the base of the hill a favoured
Old Hill, many superstitions and tales are crossing place, and the settlement of Tabán
connected with it. The hill’s present name evolved as a result.

Sights at a Glance

Museums 6 Rudas Baths
9 Rác Thermal Spa
q Semmelweis Museum
of Medical History

ALKOTÁS U. LOGODI U. A T T I L A Churches Districts, Squares
2 Cave Church and Monuments
ÚTVÉRMEZŐ LOGODI U. 0 Tabán Parish Church 3 Liberation Monument
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT 5 Statue of St Gellért
Déli pu. Historic Buildings 7 Queen Elizabeth
KRISZTINAVÁMIKÓ U. ROS 4 Citadel
w Golden Stag House Monument
8 Tabán
Hotels and Baths
1 Gellért Hotel and Baths See also Street Finder
maps 1, 3 & 4
Complex pp74–5

GYZŐ U. AVAR ÚTKOSCIUSZKO T. U. ALAGÚT U.
PÁLYA U. KRISZTINA

X I I TÉR
MÉSZÁROS U. TIGRIS U. ORVOS U. SARLÓ U.
ATTILA LÁNCHÍD U.
RÓKA U. U. DÓZSA

FENYŐ TÉR ÚT

NAPHEGYNAPHEGY FÉM U.NAPLIHSZENGYYAIUU..TA B Á NKRISKZTEIRNEASZKTÖUR.ÚT GRDOÖZBAREPNÉTTEEI RU.R.
TÉR
TIBOR UT.IGRIS U. DEZSŐ U.
ZSOMLT ÉUS. ZÁROS U.
AVAR U. DERÉK U. CZAKÓ U. HEGYALJ A ÚT Erzshéíbdet

ALADÁR U.

HEGYALJA ÚT SÁNC ÚT OROM U. RAODULaWnALuLEbNBeERG RAKPART
BERÉNYI U.
ALSÓHEGY U. .U C.U
M I H Á LY KOC
BÉR SZIRTES U

GYULA U. S ZÁ M A DÓ U. SÁNY U.

X I G E L L É R TGOMMÉBNREOSCI ZUZ.. U.SOMKLEÓLIENHEGYI ÚT GELLÉRT Pethöífid
ÚT GL HEGY
I
U. PIPACS U.
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I

BAUK.ATOR U. Szent
Gellért tér
KELENHEGYI Ú A

D .
T
REZE KEMENES U.
E RVA U ORLAY U.
T KELE NHEGYI Ú BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
S MIN

BALOGH T. U. OMLÓ I Ú T KELENHEGYI MÁ NYO KI ÚT

Ő LÉP CS
BA
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MÉNESI U. HIMFY U. Ő
LEJT Móricz
0 metres 300 T Zsigmond körtér
0 yards 300
FADRUSZ U.VILLÁNYI ÚT

Stylized Classical statue and Secessionist mosaics at the Gellért Baths For keys to map symbols see back flap

72  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Gellért Hill

The hill to the south of Castle Hill was long regarded as a

notorious spot. In the 11th century Prince Vata, brother of

King István, incited a heathen rebellion here that resulted

in the death of Bishop Gellért. During the Middle Ages,

witches were even reputed to celebrate their sabbath

here. Under the Turks, a small stronghold was first

built on the hill to protect Buda. In 1851, the

Austrians placed their own bleak and intimidating

Citadel at the summit. Not until the end of the

19th century did the popular image of Gellért Hill

begin to change, when it became a venue for

picnicking parties. In 1967, the area around the 7 Queen Elizabeth Monument
Citadel was made into an attractive park. Close to the entrance to Elizabeth Bridge
stands this statue of Austrian Emperor

Franz Joseph’s wife, who was popular

with the Hungarians. Elizabeth

Bridge

5 . Statue of H E G YA L I A
St Gellért ÚT

Blessing the city with
his uplifted cross,

the martyred Bishop
Gellért is known as
the patron saint
of Budapest.

4 Citadel 0 metres 500
Once a place to inspire terror, the Citadel 0 yards 500
is currently closed due to a legal debate.
However, visitors can still walk up to the old
walls and enjoy the splendid view.

Key
Suggested route

3 Liberation Monument
At the foot of the Liberation
Monument, towering above
the city, are two sculp-
tures, one representing
the battle with evil.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN  73

6 Rudas Baths CASTLE CENTRAL
These famous Turkish baths, which DISTRICT PEST
date from the 16th century, have
a characteristic Ottoman cupola. GELLÉRT
HILL AND
Danube
TABÁN

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 3

The Observation Terraces on Gellért Hill reward those The Reservoir
who climb up to them with a beautiful panorama over
the southern part of Buda and the whole of Pest. In 1978, a new reservoir
to supply the capital with
drinking water was built near
the Uránia Observatory to
the northwest of Gellért Hill.
The surface of the reservoir is
covered over and provides a
point from which to observe
the Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
to the north. A sculpture by
Márta Lesenyei decorates
the structure.

2 Cave Church Sculpture by Márta Lesenyei
This church was established in 1926 on Gellért Hill’s reservoir
in a holy grotto. Under the Commu­
nists, the Pauline order of monks
was forced to abandon the church,
but it was reopened in 1989.
RAKPART
SZENT GELLÉRT Liberty
Bridge

1 . Gellért Hotel and
Baths Complex

One of a number of bath complexes
built at the beginning of the

20th century, this magnificent
spa hotel was erected here to
exploit the natural hot springs.

74  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

1 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex

Between 1912 and 1918, this hotel and spa was built in Outdoor Wave Pool
the modernist Secession style (see p87) at the foot of An early swimming pool with a
Gellért Hill. The architects of the hotel were Ármin wave mechanism, built in 1927,
Hegedűs, Artúr Sebestyén and Izidor Sterk. The earliest is situated at the back of the
reference to the existence of healing waters at this spot complex, looking towards
dates from the 13th century. During the reign of King Gellért Hill behind.
András II and in the Middle Ages a hospital stood on the
site. Baths built here by the Ottomans were mentioned
by the renowned Turkish travel writer of the day, Evliya
Çelebi. Severely damaged in 1945, the hotel was restored
and modernized after World War II. Today it has several
restaurants and cafés. The baths complex includes an
institute of water therapy, set within Secession interiors
but with modern facilities.

. Baths
Two separate baths, one for
men and one for women,
are identically arranged.
In each there are three
plunge pools, with water at
different temperatures, a
sauna and a steam bath.

Balconies
The balconies fronting the hotel’s rooms
have fanciful Secession balustrades that are
decorated with lyre and bird motifs.

KEY . Entrance Hall
The interiors of the hotel, like
1 Hot pool with medicinal
spa water the baths, have kept their
original Secession decor, with

elaborate mosaics, stained-
glass windows and statues.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN  75

Sun Terraces VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Situated in the sunniest
spot, these terraces are Practical Information
a popular place for Szent Gellért tér. Map 4 D3.
drying off in summer. Tel (1) 466 61 66. ^ 7 -
0 = Baths: Kelenhegyi út 4.
Open 6am–8pm daily. & ^
7 ∑ budapestspas.hu

Transport
q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7.
v 19, 41, 47, 49, 56.

Eastern-Style Towers
The architects who designed
the hotel gave its towers and
turrets a characteristically
Oriental cylindrical form.

Main Staircase
The landings of the
main staircase have
stained-glass windows

by Bozó Stanisits,
added in 1933. They
illustrate an ancient

Hungarian legend
about a magic stag,
recorded in the poetry

of János Arany.

. Main Façade Restaurant Terrace
Behind the hotel’s imposing façade are attractive From this first-floor terrace, diners can
recreational facilities and a health spa that is also open appreciate a fine view of Pest. On the
to non-guests. The entrance to the baths is around to ground and first floors of the hotel there
the right from the main entrance, on Kelenhegyi út. is a total of four cafés and restaurants.

76  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Entrance to the Cave Church, run by the Pauline order of monks The monument’s central
figure is a woman standing
2 Cave Church the liberation of Budapest on a pedestal, reaching a
by the Russian army in 1947 height of 14 m (46 ft). At the
Sziklatemplom (see pp48–9). The monument base of the monument there
was originally intended to are two allegorical compositions,
Szent Gellért rakpart 1. Map 4 D3. honour the memory of István, representing progress and the
q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7, 86. v 19, son of the Hungarian Regent battle with evil.
41, 47, 49, 56. Tel (1) 385 15 29. Miklós Horthy, who disappeared
Open 9am–8pm daily. & in 1943 on the Eastern Front. The arrival of the Russians in
However, after the liberation Budapest was a liberation, but
Based on Lourdes, this grotto of the city by Russian troops, it also signalled the beginning
church on the southern slope Marshal Kliment Voroshilov of Soviet rule. After the fall
of Gellért Hill was established spotted the work in the of Communism, a figure of a
in 1926 by Kálmán Lux for the sculptor’s workshop and Russian soldier was removed
Pauline order of monks, which reassigned it to this purpose. from the monument to
originated in Hungary in the Memento Park (see p116).
13th century. The church was The Liberation Monument, standing
sealed in the late 1950s by the at the top of Gellért Hill 4 Citadel
Communist authorities, but it
and the adjoining monastery Saint Gellért Citadella
were reopened in 1989, when
a papal blessing was conferred Map 3 C2. @ 27.
on its new granite altar.
After the suppression of the
To the left of the grotto is a uprising of 1848–9 (see pp46–7),
copy of the Black Madonna of the Habsburgs constructed a
Czestochowa and a depiction fortification on this strateg-
of a Polish eagle. A painting ically important site. Built in
commemorates the Polish 1850–54, the Citadel housed
monk St Kolbe, who died help- 60 cannons, which could, in
ing inmates at Auschwitz. At theory, fire on the city at any
the entrance stands a statue of time. In reality, from its very
St István. In the monastery, Béla inception the Citadel did not
Ferenc’s exquisite wooden fulfil any real military require-
sculptures are worth seeing. ments, but served rather
as a means of intimidating
the population.

The Citadel is some 220 m
(720 ft) long by 60 m (200 ft)
wide, and has 4-m- (12-ft-)
high walls. After peace was
agreed with the Habsburgs,
Hungarians continually
demanded the destruction
of the Citadel but it was not
until 1897 that the Austrian
soldiers left their barracks here
and a section of its entrance
was symbolically ripped out.

3 Liberation Bishop Gellért was born Giorgio di Sagredo, near Bologna, Italy,
Monument
around 980. He became a Benedictine monk and
Felszabadulási emlékmű
made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, where he
Map 4 D2. @ 27.
met the Raslan, Abbot of Pannonhalma
Positioned high on Gellért Hill,
this imposing monument Abbey (see pp180–81), who invited him
towers over the rest of the
city. It was designed by the to Hungary. After a period preaching in
outstanding Hungarian sculptor
Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl and pagan areas of the country, he was asked
set up here to commemorate
by King St István to tutor his son, Prince

Imre. István later made him a Bishop. Gellért

was killed in 1046 during a pagan revolt –

sealed in a barrel, he was thrown off the hill A hotel window

that today takes his name, Gellért Hill. depicting St Gellért

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN  77

After much debate in the early
1960s, the Citadel became a
leisure complex. A restaurant,
a hotel and a nightclub here
used to tempt customers up
Gellért Hill, but are now closed,
with no information available
on when, or whether, they will
reopen. However, the walk up
to the old walls of the Citadel
is rewarded with spectacular
views of the entire city below.

5 Statue of St Gellért The main plunge pool at the Rudas Baths, covered by a Turkish cupola

Szent Gellért emlékmű a Hungarian convert to 6 Rudas Baths
Christianity kneels at his feet.
Map 3 C2. @ 27 (and a long walk; go Rudas Gyógyfürdő
via the steps by Elizabeth Bridge). The statue was designed
by Gyula Jankovits; the semi- Döbrentei tér 9. Map 3 C2. Tel (1) 356
In 1904 a vast monument was circular colonnade behind it 13 22. Spa Baths: Open (men only)
established on the spot where, is by Imre Francsek. A spring 6am–8pm Mon, Wed–Fri; (women
in the 11th century, Bishop that bubbles up here was only) 6am–8pm Tue; (mixed) 10pm–
Gellért was said to have been used to create the fountain. 4am Fri, 6am–8pm, 10pm–4am Sat,
thrown off the hill in a sealed 6am–7pm Sun. Swimming pool:
barrel, by a mob opposed to Overlooking the Elizabeth Open 6am–6pm Mon–Fri, 6am–5pm
the adoption of Christianity. Bridge, the larger-than-life Sat & Sun. ∑ rudasfurdo.hu
St Gellért holds a cross in monument of the bishop can
his outstretched hand, and be seen from all over the city. Dating originally from 1550, these
baths were greatly extended
in 1566 by Sokoli Mustafa, an
Ottoman pasha. The main part
of the baths, which comprises an
octagonal plunge pool and four
small corner pools with water of
varying temperatures, dates from
this period.

In recent years the baths have
been extensively modernized
and now include a covered
swimming pool. This pool is
for mixed bathing.

The landmark Gellért Monument, overlooking the Elizabeth Bridge 7 Queen Elizabeth
Monument

Erzsébet királyné szobra

Döbrentei tér. Map 3 C1/2.

This monument to Queen
Elizabeth, wife of Habsburg
Emperor and king of Hungary
Franz Joseph, was created by
György Zala. The statue was
erected in its present location
in 1986. It stands close to the
Elizabeth Bridge, which was
also named after the empress
and queen, who showed great
friendship to the Hungarians.
The statue stood on the opposite
side of the river from 1932 until
1947, when the Communists
ordered it to be taken down.

78  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

8 Tabán Eravi were the first to make a In the late 17th century, a
settlement here, while the large number of Serbs, referred
Map 3 B/C1. v 18, 19. @ 5, 112. Romans later built a watch­ to in Hungarian as Rác, moved
tower from which they could into the Tabán after fleeing
The Tabán now consists of observe people using a nearby from the Turks. They were
a pleasant park and a few crossing point over the river. joined by Greeks and Gypsies.
historic buildings, but it was The first reference to the Many of the inhabitants of
once very different. In the thermal waters in Tabán dates the Tabán at this stage were
early 20th century this district, from the 15th century. The tanners or made their living on
nestling in between Castle Turks took advantage of this the river. On the hillside above,
Hill and Gellért Hill, was a slum natural asset and built two grapevines were cultivated. In
which was cleared as part magnificent baths here, the the early 20th century, though
of a city improvement pro­ Rác Baths and the Rudas picturesque, the district was
gramme. Only a few buildings Baths (see p77). Around them still without proper sanitation.
survived, including Tabán a blossoming town was soon The old, decaying Tabán,
Parish Church. established. Apart from the with its bars and gambling
baths, virtually everything dens, was demolished
Natural conditions ensured was destroyed in the recapture and the present green space
that this was one of the first of Buda in 1686. established in its place.
places in the area where
people chose to live. The Celtic

A statue of Miklós Ybl,
the 19th­century architect,
was erected here in 1894. It was
designed by Ede Mayer.

Gardens with terraces, YBL MIKLÓS TÉR
decorative stairways and
arcades designed by Miklós
Ybl were established in Tabán
to connect the Royal Palace
(see pp58–9) with the banks
of the Danube.

ÁRPÁD DÖBRENTEI RAKPART
UTCA GROZA PÉTER
UTCA

Golden Stag House

Several Ottoman tombstones 0 metres 150
stand here. They are the rem­ 0 yards 150
nants of a cemetery in which
the Turks who died defending
Buda in 1686 were buried.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN  79

9 Rác Thermal Spa

Rác Gyógyfürdő

Hadnagy utca 8–10. Map 3 C2. v 18,
19. Closed until further notice.

The Rác Spa dates from 1550 The History of Healing: permanent exhibition at Semmelweis Museum of Medical History
and boasts an original thermal
Turkish pool, a hammam bath now in the Budapest History of a 19th­century pharmacy.
and a historical dome. This Museum (see p60). The nave Semmelweis’s surgery can
significant piece of heritage is and side chapels are Baroque; also be seen with its original
now privately owned, and has the altar, pulpit and several furniture. In the courtyard
been renovated with a five­star paintings adorning the walls stands a monument called
luxury hotel adjoining it, with all date from the 19th century. Motherhood by Miklós Borsos.
modern facilities for guests and The church hosts regular
visitors to indulge in the latest organ concerts. The museum joined the
spa treatments. Unfortunately, Hungarian National Museum
the opening of the hotel and q Semmelweis in February 2017, thus
thermal spa complex has been Museum of Medical becoming a department
delayed by unresolved History of the institution.
financial issues.
Semmelweis Orvostörténeti 9 Várkert Bazár
Turkish bath area, Rác Thermal Spa Múzeum
Várbazár
0 Tabán Parish Apród utca 1–3. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375
Church 35 33. v 18, 19. Open Mid­Mar–Oct: Ybl Miklós tér 6. Map 4 D1.
10:30am–6pm Tue–Sun; Sep–mid­ Tel (06 1) 225 05 54. @ 16, 86, 105.
Tabáni plébánia templom Mar: 10:30am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 v 19. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Attila út 11. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375 54 ^ ∑ semmelweis.museum.hu ∑ varkertbazar.hu/en
91. v 18, 19.
This museum is located in the Designed by Miklós Ybl,
A temple is thought to have 18th­century house where the Várkert Bazár and the
stood on this site even in the Dr Ignáz Semmelweis was born ornamental garden that it
reign of Prince Árpád. In the Mid­ in 1818. He is renowned for houses have been popular
dle Ages a church was built here, his discovery of the cause and landmarks ever since they
which was converted to a cure for puerperal fever, a fatal opened in 1883. Considered
mosque by the Turks and condition frequently contracted to be the greatest examples
subsequently destroyed. In by women during or shortly of the Hungarian Romantic
1728–36, after the Habsburgs after childbirth. style of architecture, the venue
had taken control of the city, became one of the city’s best
a new church was erected to a The history of medicine clubs during the 20th century.
design by Keresztély Obergruber. from ancient Egypt onwards It was finally closed for renov­
Mátyás Nepauer added the is portrayed in the museum, ations in 1984, and reopened as
tower in 1750–53. In 1881 the which includes the replica a public cultural space in 2014.
façade was extended and
the tower was crowned by Raoul Wallenberg Bas-relief of Raoul
a fine Neo­Baroque dome. Wallenberg
The celebrated Swedish diplomat
Inside the church, on the Raoul Wallenberg saved more than 7,000
right­hand side under the Hungarian Jews from deportation. Born in
choir gallery, is a copy of a Sweden in 1912, Wallenberg was assigned
12th­century carving entitled to the Swedish Embassy in Budapest
Christ of Tabán; the original is in 1944 and immediately began
certifying Jews threatened with
deportation as Swedish subjects
awaiting repatriation. Arrested (as
a US spy) by the Soviet Army in 1945,
Wallenberg was taken to Moscow and
probably executed in 1947. He is honoured
in Budapest with a statue depicting a man
slaying a snake.



BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  81

AROUND PARLIAMENT

Towards the end of the 18th century development. The medieval walls that
and throughout the 19th century, Pest originally marked Pest’s limits were crossed
underwent a series of huge changes. In as the area expanded and was urbanized.
1838 a flood destroyed most of the rural This period produced some of the most
dwellings that had occupied the area. important buildings in Hungary, including
The Chain Bridge, the city’s first permanent St Stephen’s Basilica, Parliament and the
Danube crossing, was built in 1839–49. Hungarian Academy of Science. Many
The unification of Budapest in 1873 and Neo-Classical residences were also built,
the 1,000-year anniversary, in 1896, of the particularly on Nádor utca, Akadémia
Magyar conquest also boosted the city’s utca and Október 6 utca.

Sights at a Glance Theatres Squares
9 State Opera House pp92–3 4 Liberty Square
Historic Buildings and Palaces q Budapest Operetta Theatre 5 Széchenyi Square

1 Parliament pp84–5 Museums Churches
3 Ministry of Agriculture 2 Museum of Ethnography 8 St Stephen’s Basilica pp90–91
6 Gresham Palace
7 Hungarian Academy of Sciences
0 Drechsler Palace
w Radisson Blu Béke Hotel

T MARI SZENT KATONA JÓZSEF U. VISEGRÁDI U.
TÉR
R ISTVÁN KÖRÚT

PA

K FALK MIKSA U. VÁCI ÚT
.

A KÁDÁR U.
U

CHENYI R BALATON U. See also Street Finder
ÚJPESTI maps 1 & 2
BÁLINT U.

É SZEMERE U.
NAGY IGNÁC U.
SZ HONVÉD STOLLÁR B. U. NYUGATI Nyugati
SSI BIHARI J. U. TÉR Pu.

A MARKÓ U. TÉR

L

A UTCA
SZONDI U.
B

MARKÓ U. PODMANIECZKY

VAJKAY U. SZALAY U.
V IKOSSUTH EÖTVÖS U.
L I P Ó T VÁ R O SLAJOS
TERÉZ
TÉR
ALKOTMÁNY U. LEÓ U.

HONVÉD U. KÁLMÁN IMRE U. B A J C S Y- Z S I L I N S Z K Y Ú T WEINER DESSEWFFLYOVAG U. KÖRÚT
KOZMAF. U. BÁTHORY U.
JÓKAI U.
Danube NAGYMEZŐ U. U. ARADI U.
U.
Kossuth VÉRTANÚK VADÁSH U. JENŐ Ó U. Oktogon
Lajos tér TERE ZICHY
T E R É Z VÁ R O SGARIBALDI U.
NÁDOR U. KBISUAS.NE.KNUAG. YPJOS. ÁUDN.MDTAOÉNRRICZKYDESSZEICWHFYFYJEUN.Ő MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
TÉR

ZOLTÁN U. HOLD U. U.

SZÉCHENYI RAKPART AKADÉMIA U.VSTEINDL I. SZABADSÁG HAJÓS U.
TÉR

SZÉCHENYI U. LÁZÁR U.A N D R Á S S Y Ó U.Opera
ÚT
NÁDOR U. ARANY JÁNOS U. Arany J. u.
TÜKUÖ. RY
VIGYÁZÓ F .U. SAS U. HERCEGPRÍMÁS RÉVAY U. 0 metres 500
500
OKTÓBER SZENT 0 yards
ISTVÁN
SZÉCHENYI ZRÍNYI U. 6 U.
ISTVÁN MÉRLEG U. TÉR
TÉR Bajcsy-Zs. út

JÓZSEF ATTILA U.

Magnificent Neo-Gothic craftsmanship in the Hungarian Parliament building For keys to map symbols see back flap

82  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Kossuth Square

This square expresses well the pomp and 2 Museum of Ethnography
pride with which Pest was developed during Among 250,000 exhibits in the
the 19th and early 20th centuries. Parliament museum’s collection is a display
dominates the square on the Danube side,
but equally imposing are the Ministry of of folk costumes representing
Agriculture and the Museum of Ethnography the various nationalities and
on the opposite side. Several monuments ethnic groups in Hungary.
commemorate nationalist leaders and The museum is scheduled
provide a visual record of Hungary’s to be relocated in 2018.
recent political history.

1 Parliament
This building has
become the
recognized symbol
of democracy in
Hungary, despite the
fact that the dome
was crowned by a
red star during the
Communist period.

Attila Jòzsef was a radical K
poet whose work sensitively
explored the human O

condition. In 1937 he S
committed suicide, L
aged 32. This statue
by László Marton S
dates from 1980. A

UTH
JOS
TÉR

Lajos Kossuth (1802–94) 0 metres 150
0 yards 150
Lajos Kossuth, after whom this square
is named, is still immensely popular in
Hungary today. Kossuth led the 1848–9
uprising against Austrian rule (see pp42–6)
and was one of the most outstanding
political figures in Hungary. A member of
the first democratic government during the
uprising, he briefly became its leader before
being exiled after the revolt was quashed
in 1849. He died in Turin in 1894.

Stained-glass window depicting Lajos Kossuth

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  83

Ferenc Rákóczi II, the prince Danube AROUND
of Transylvania, led one of the PARLIAMENT
earliest uprisings for national
CENTRAL
independence against the PEST
Habsburgs in 1703–11. This
Locator Map
bronze equestrian monument, See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
standing in front of Parlia
ment, was created by
János Pásztor in 1937.

3 Ministry of Agriculture
A massive Corinthian colonnade

supporting an entablature
lends this Neo-Classical

building a dignified character.

This monument to
Imre Nagy symbolizes
the pro-reform Communist
prime minister who rose
up with the people against
Soviet rule in 1956 – a
protest that cost him his
life two years later.

Plaque commemorating The former headquarters
Brigadier Woroniecki, hero of Hungarian TV, this elegant
of the uprising of 1848–9 Secessionist building was
designed by Ignác Alpár and
constructed in 1905. It originally
housed the Stock Exchange.

Key
Suggested route

84  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

1 Parliament Parliament Visitor Centre
The Neo-Gothic northern façade of the
Hungary’s Parliament, the country’s parliamentary building overlooks the contemporary
largest building, has become a symbol of Visitor Centre’s entrance, which houses educational
Budapest. A competition held to choose exhibitions in state of the art surroundings.
its design was won by Imre Steindl, who
based his plans on the Houses of Parlia­
ment in London, built by Charles Barry in
1837–47. Steindl’s rich Neo­Gothic master­
piece, constructed between 1885 and
1904, is 268 m (880 ft) long and 96 m
(315 ft) high, and contains 691 rooms.

. Domed Hall
Adorning the massive pillars

that support Parliament’s
central dome are figures of

some of Hungary’s rulers.

. Deputy Council Chamber
Formerly the lower house, this
hall is where the National
Assembly now convenes.
Two paintings by Zsigmond
Vajda, specially commis-
sioned for the building,
hang on either side of the
Speaker’s lectern.

Gables Lobby
Almost every corner of the Lobbies, the venues for political
Parliament building features
gables with pinnacles based discussions, are to be found
on Gothic sculptures. along corridors beneath the

stained-glass windows.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  85

Dome VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The ceiling of the 96-m-
(315-ft-) high dome is Practical Information
covered in an intricate Kossuth Lajos tér. Map 1 C3/4.
design of Neo-Gothic Tel (1) 441 44 15. 8 English 10am,
gilding combined with noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm daily
heraldic decoration. (subject to parliament sessions).
& discounted rate for EU citizens.
7 - ∑ parlament.hu

Transport
v 2, 2A. q Kossuth tér. @ 70, 78.

Tapestry Hall
This room, on the
Danube side of the
Domed Hall, has a
tapestry depicting
Prince Árpád, with
seven Magyar leaders
under his command, as
he signs a peace treaty
and takes an oath.

Old Upper House Hall
This vast hall is virtually a mirror image of
the Deputy Council Chamber. Both halls
have public galleries running around
a horseshoe-shaped interior.

KEY The main entrance
on Kossuth Lajos tér
1 South wing
2 Danube façade Main Staircase
3 The Royal Insignia, excluding the The best contemporary
Coronation Mantle (see p102), is kept
in the Domed Hall. artists were invited to
4 North wing decorate the interior. The
5 Tickets can be bought at gate 10 sumptuous main staircase
features ceiling frescoes by
Károly Lotz and sculptures

by György Kiss.

86  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

The magnificent façade of the from the prehistoric era to the the shooting at Kossuth tér
Museum of Ethnography 20th century. A map dating on 25 October 1956, when
from 1909 shows the settlement a peaceful demonstration
2 Museum of areas of the various groups who during the revolution turned
Ethnography came to be included in Hungary. violent. The two sculptures in
Ethnic items relating to these front of the building are by
Néprajzi Múzeum communities, as well as early Árpád Somogyi: the Reaper
artifacts of the peoples of North Lad (1956) and the Female
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. Map 2 D3. and South America, Africa, Asia Agronomist (1954).
Tel (1) 473 24 42. v 2, 70. q Kossuth and Australia, can also be seen.
Lajos tér. Closed for renovation. 4 Liberty Square
& 8∑ neprajz.hu 3 Ministry of
Agriculture Szabadság tér
This building, designed by Alajos
Hauszmann and constructed Földművelésügyi Minisztérium Map 2 D4. q Kossuth Lajos tér,
between 1893 and 1896, was Arany János utca.
built as the Palace of Justice Kossuth Lajos tér 11. Map 2 D4.
and, until 1945, served as the q Kossuth Lajos tér. After the demolition of the
Supreme Court. Neugebäude Barracks in 1886,
On the southeastern side of Liberty Square was laid out in
The building’s design links Kossuth Square is a huge building, their place. The barracks, built
elements of Renaissance, Baroque bordered by streets on all four sides, for the Austrian troops, once
and Classicism. The façade is which was built for the Ministry dominated the southern part
dominated by a vast portico of Agriculture by Gyula Bukovics of Lipótváros (Leopold Town).
crowned by two towers. A gable at the end of the 19th century. It was here that Hungary’s first
features the figure of the Roman independent prime minister,
goddess of justice in a chariot The façade is designed in a Count Lajos Batthyány, was
drawn by three horses, created typical late Historicist style, executed on 6 October 1849.
by Károly Senyei. The grand hall drawing heavily on Neo- Since 1926, an eternal flame
inside the main entrance boasts Classical motifs. The columns has been burning at the corner
a marvellous staircase and of the colonnade are echoed of Aulich utca, Hold utca and
frescoes by Károly Lotz. in the well-proportioned Báthory utca to honour all
pedimented windows above. who were executed.
The building was first used
as a museum in 1957, housing On the wall to the right of the Two impressive buildings
the Hungarian National Gallery building, two commemorative by Ignác Alpár stand on
(see pp62–3), which was later plaques can be seen. The first is opposite sides of the square.
transferred to the Royal Palace. dedicated to the commanding The former Stock Exchange
The Museum of Ethnography officer of the Polish Legion, who dates from 1905 and shows
has been here since 1973. was also a hero of the 1848–9 the influence of the Secession
uprising (see pp46). Brigadier style. The Hungarian National
The museum’s collection Woroniecki, renowned for his Bank (Magyar Nemzeti Bank),
was established in 1872, in bravery, was shot down on this also from 1905, is decorated in
the Department of Ethnography spot by the Austrians in 1849. Historicist style. An obelisk by
at the Hungarian National The second plaque honours Károly Antal at the northern
Museum (see pp102–3). There Endre Ságvári, a Hungarian end of the square commem-
are now around 240,000 hero of the resistance orates the Red Army soldiers
exhibits, although most are movement, who died when who died during the siege of
not on display. The collection fighting the Fascists in 1944. Budapest in 1944–5. A second
includes artifacts reflecting the statue honours US General
rural folk culture of Hungary The metal balls studding Harry Hill Bandholtz, who foiled
one part of the wall are set into the looting of the Hungarian
bullet holes and form a mem- National Museum.
orial for the civilian victims of

Bas-reliefs on the former Stock Exchange in Liberty Square

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  87

Secession Architecture

Visitors to Budapest are often impressed by its wonderful range of late 19th- and early
20th-century buildings. The majority of these are found in central Pest and around the
Városliget district (see pp110–11); Buda was already developed at this stage and so boasts
few examples. The Secession Movement started among groups of avant-garde artists in
Paris and Vienna, from where the term “Secession” comes. In Budapest, the Secessionist
style was also the inspiration for what would develop into the Hungarian National style.
Secessionist architecture is characterized by decorative forms, glazed ceramics and the
artistic implementation of modern technical solutions.

Ödön Lechner (1845– The former Post
1914), Hungary’s most Savings Bank
influential Secessionist has a splendid
architect, combined main staircase
modern functionalism designed by
and characteristically
decorative forms. Ödön Lechner. It
is embellished by

fine balusters,
spherical lamps
and decorative
window frames.

The Geological and Geophysical Finely crafted peacocks, a classic
Institute of Hungary is Secession motif, adorn the
wrought-iron gates of Gresham
characterized by its stunning Palace. This former office block, now
blue Zsolnay ceramic roof a luxury hotel (see p88), was built by
Zsigmond Quittner in 1905–7.
tiles. Designed by Ödön
Lechner, the building

dates from 1898–9. The
central pitched roof is
topped by four human
figures bent under the

weight of a large globe.

This vase by István Sovának stands
in the Museum of Applied Arts. Its plain

shape and Oriental flower motif hint at
the many Eastern elements that crept
into later Secessionist works of art.

This window at the Reinforced concrete, steel and glass
Hungarian National were often used together to create
Bank was created by large, light interiors. The foyer of the
Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex is a
Miksa Róth in 1905. perfect example of this technique.
Róth (1865–1944) was

Hungary’s leading

exponent of stained-

glass windows. His

windows also adorn

Budapest’s Parliament.

88  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Monument to Ferenc Deák, dating from 6 Gresham Palace gate, it is widely regarded as one
1887, in Széchenyi Square of the most splendid examples
Gresham palota of design from the Secession era.
5 Széchenyi Square Széchenyi István 5–7. Map 2 D5. Inside the building, the second
Tel (1) 268 60 00. @ 16. v 2. floor of the Kossuth stairway has
Széchenyi István tér ∑ fourseasons.com/budapest a stained­glass window by Miksa
Róth, featuring a portrait of Lajos
Map 1 C5. @ 16. v 2. This Secession palace aroused Kossuth (see p82).
both controversy and praise
Széchenyi Square has been from the moment it was built. In 2004 the palace was
known by several different One of Budapest’s most restored and reopened as a
names – Franz Joseph Square, distinctive pieces of architecture, Four Seasons Hotel, the second
Unloading Square and, until it was commissioned by the in central Europe and the first in
2011, Roosevelt Square – a title London­based Gresham Life Hungary. Visitors are welcome
given to it in 1947. It leads into Assurance Company from to admire its splendours.
the Pest side of the Chain Bridge, Zsigmond Quittner and the
which was designed by English­ brothers József and László Vágó, Miklós Izsó’s sculptures inside the
man William Tierney Clark and and completed in 1907. Hungarian Academy of Sciences
built by the Scot Adam Clark in
1839–49. It was the city’s first The enormous edifice 7 Hungarian
permanent Danube bridge and enjoys an imposing location Academy of
a major feat of engineering. directly opposite the Chain Sciences
Bridge. The façade features
At the beginning of the 20th classic Secession motifs Magyar Tudományos Akadémia
century the square was lined (see p87), such as curvilinear Széchenyi István tér 9. Map 1 C5.
with hotels, the Diana Baths and forms and organic themes. Tel (1) 411 61 00. @ 16. Academy
the Lloyd Palace designed by The ornately carved window and Collection of Art: Open 11am–
József Hild. The only building surrounds appear as though 4pm Mon–Fri. Closed Jun–Aug.
from the previous century still they are projecting from the ∑ mta.hu
standing today is the Hungarian walls, blending seamlessly
Academy of Sciences. All other with the architecture. The Built in 1862–4, this
buildings were demolished and bust by Ede Telcs, at the top Neo­Renaissance building
replaced by the Gresham Palace of the façade, is of Sir Thomas was designed by the architect
and the Bank of Hungary, on Gresham. The founder of the Friedrich August Stüler.
the corner of József Attila utca. Royal Exchange in London, he
came up with Gresham’s Law: Six statues, representing the
There is a statue to Baron “bad money drives out good”. disciplines of knowledge – law,
József Eötvös (1813–71), a history, mathematics, sciences,
reformer of public education, On the ground floor of the philosophy and linguistics –
in front of the InterContinental palace there is a T­shaped and the works of Emil Wolf
Budapest. In the centre of the arcade, covered by a multi­ and Miklós Izsó, adorn the
square are monuments to coloured glazed roof, which façade. On the Danube side,
two politicians with quite is occupied by shops and a allegories of poetry, astronomy
different ideologies: Count restaurant. The entrance to and archaeology can be seen,
István Széchenyi (1791–1860), the arcade is marked by a while the building’s corners
the leading social and political beautiful wrought­iron gate with have statues of renowned
reformer of his age and initiator peacock motifs. Still the original thinkers including Newton
of the Chain Bridge, and Ferenc and Descartes. Inside, there
Deák (1803–76), who was Bust of Sir Thomas Gresham on the façade is a library and the Academy’s
instrumental in the Com­ of the Gresham Palace Collection of Art.
promise of 1867, which led to
the Dual Monarchy (see p46).

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  89

w Radisson Blu
Béke Hotel

Radisson Blu Béke Hotel

Teréz körút 43. Map 2 E3. Tel (1) 889
39 00. q Oktogon. v 4, 6.
∑ danubiushotels.com/beke

The Neo-Renaissance façade of the Drechsler Palace This elegant, historic hotel was
built in 1896 as an apartment
8 St Stephen’s Operettas were first staged on building, and in 1912 was
Basilica this site in the Orfeum Theatre, restyled by Béla Málnai as the
Hotel Britannia. A mosaic of
Szent István bazilika designed in the Neo-Baroque style 16th-century general György
See pp90–91. by the Viennese architects Fellner Szondi was added to the façade
and Helmer in 1898. In 1922, the at this time.
9 Hungarian State US entrepreneur Ben Blumenthal
Opera redeveloped the building and In 1978 the hotel was
opened the Capital Operetta taken over by the Radisson
Magyar Állami Operaház Theatre, which then specialized group, which restored the
See pp92–3. in the genre. After 1936, this rich interiors to their former
theatre became the only venue splendour. Notable features
0 Drechsler Palace for operetta in Budapest. are the fine stained-glass
windows and frescoes by Jenő
Drechsler palota The theatre presents light Haranghy in the Szondi Lugas
Andrássy út 25. Map 2 E4/5. opera by international and Restaurant, which illustrate
q Opera. Hungarian composers, such the works of Richard Wagner.
as Imre Kálmán, Ferenc Lehár The Romeo and Juliet Conference
and Pál Ábrahám. Room and the Shakespeare
Restaurant are named after the
murals that decorate them.
The Zsolnay Café serves cake
and coffee on porcelain from
the Pécs factory (see p190).

Formerly the State Ballet
Institute, the Drechsler Palace
was originally built as Neo-
Renaissance apartments for
the Hungarian Railways
Pension Fund in 1883. It was
designed by Gyula Pártos and
Ödön Lechner to harmonize
with the façade of the State
Opera House (see pp92–3),
and is of great architectural
importance to the area.

The palace’s name derives
from the Drechsler Café, which
occupied the ground floor
towards the end of the 19th
and in the early 20th century.

q Budapest Entrance to the Budapest Operetta Theatre on Nagymező utca
Operetta Theatre

Budapesti Operettszínház

Nagymező utca 17. Map 2 E4.
Tel (1) 472 20 30. q Oktogon.
v 4, 6, 70. ∑ operettszinhaz.hu

Budapest has long enjoyed a
good reputation for musical
entertainment, and its operetta
scene is over 100 years old.

90  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

8 St Stephen’s Basilica

Dedicated to St Stephen, or István, the first Hungarian
Christian king (see p65), this church was designed by
József Hild in the Neo-Classical style, using a Greek cross
floorplan. Construction began in 1851 and was taken
over in 1867 by Miklós Ybl (see p93), who added the Neo-
Renaissance dome after the original one collapsed in 1868.
József Kauser completed the church in 1905. It received
the title of Basilica Minor in 1938, the 900th anniversary
of the death of Prince Imre (St Emeric), István’s son.

St Matthew Dome
St Matthew is one of Reaching 96 m (315 ft), the dome
the four Evangelists is visible from all over Budapest. The
represented in the observation terrace beneath
niches on the exterior the dome offers unique panoramic
of the dome. They are views of the city.
all the work of the
sculptor Leó Feszler.

Tower
A bell, weighing 9,250 kg
(9 tons) is housed in this

tower. It was funded by
German Catholics to

compensate for the
original bell, which
was looted by
the Nazis in 1944.

Main Portal
The massive door is
decorated with carvings
depicting the heads of

the 12 Apostles.

KEY

1 Observation point
2 Figures of the 12 Apostles, by
Leó Feszler, crown the outer colon­
nade at the back of the church.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  91

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Szent István tér. Map 2 D5.
Tel (1) 338 21 51. Open
9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm
Sat, 1–5pm Sun. 8 7 5
Transport
q Deák Ferenc tér.

Mosaics
The dome is decorated
with mosaics designed by
Károly Lotz.

. Main Altar
In the centre of the altar there is a
marble statue of St István by Alajos
Stróbl. Scenes from the king’s life are
depicted behind the altar.

. Holy Right Hand
Hungary’s most unusual relic
is the mummified forearm of St
István. It is kept in the Chapel of

the Holy Right Hand.

St Gellért and
St Emeric

This portrayal of
St Gellért and his
pupil, St Emeric, is the
work of Alajos Stróbl.

. Painting by Gyula Benczúr
This image shows King István, left
without an heir, dedicating Hungary to
the Virgin Mary, who became Patrona

Hungariae, the country’s patron.

92  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

9 Hungarian State Façade
Opera A musical theme underlies the decoration of
the symmetrical façade. In niches on either side
Opened in September 1884, the State Opera of the main entrance there are figures of two of
House in Budapest was built to rival those of Hungary’s most prominent composers, Ferenc
Paris, Vienna and Dresden. Its beautiful Erkel and Ferenc (Franz) Liszt. Both were
architecture and interiors were the life’s work of sculpted by Alajos Stróbl.
the great Hungarian architect, Miklós Ybl. The
interior contains ornamentation by Hungarian
artists, including Alajos Strobl and Károly Lotz.
During its lifetime, the State Opera House has
seen some influential music directors, including
Ferenc Erkel, composer of the Hungarian opera
Bánk Bán, Gustav Mahler and Otto Klemperer.

Murals
The vaulted ceiling of
the foyer is covered in
magnificent murals by
Bertalan Székely and
Mór Than. They depict
the nine Muses.

. Foyer
With its marble columns,

gilded vaulted ceiling,
murals and chandeliers,

the foyer gives the
State Opera House
a feeling of opulence

and grandeur.

Main Entrance
Wrought-iron
lamps illuminate
the wide stone
staircase and the
main entrance.

KEY . Main Staircase
Going to the opera
1 The side entrance has a
loggia that reflects the design was a great social
of the main entrance. occasion in the

19th century. A vast,
sweeping staircase
was an important

element of the opera
house, as it allowed
ladies to show off
their new gowns.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

AROUND PARLIAMENT  93

Chandelier VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The main hall is decorated
with a bronze chandelier that Practical Information
weighs 3,050 kg (3 tons). It Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Tel (1)
illuminates a magnificent 332 81 97 or 353 01 70 (box office).
fresco by Károly Lotz of the & ^ 7 = 8 3pm & 4pm
Greek gods on Olympus. daily. ∑ operavisit.hu

Transport
q Opera. v 4, 6.

Central Stage
This proscenium arch stage employed

the most modern technology of the
time. It featured a revolving stage and

metal hydraulic machinery.

Miklós Ybl (1814–91)

The most prominent Hungarian architect of

the second half of the 19th century, Miklós . Royal Box
Located centrally in
Ybl had an enormous influence on the the three-storey circle, the
royal box is decorated with
development of Budapest. He was a sculptures symbolizing
the four operatic voices –
practitioner of Historicism, and tended soprano, alto, tenor and bass.

to use Neo-Renaissance forms. The

State Opera House and the dome

of St Stephen’s Basilica are

examples of his work. Ybl also

built apartment buildings and

palaces for the aristocracy in this

style. A statue of the architect

stands on the western bank of the Bust of Miklós Ybl

Danube, in Miklós Ybl Square.



BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA  95

CENTRAL PEST

At the end of the 17th century much of Pest most prominent example of this work is the
was in ruins and few residents remained. Hungarian National Museum. At this time
Within the next decades, however, new Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and
residential districts were established – today’s industry. This was partly due to the Jewish
midtown suburbs. In the 19th century, community, who actively helped develop the
redevelopment schemes introduced grand area. Today it combines commerce and culture
houses and apartment blocks, as well as with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.

Sights at a Glance

Museums Churches and Synagogues

q Museum of Applied Arts 6 Inner City Parish Church ARADI U. Vörösmarty
w Hungarian National Museum 9 University Church utca
e Great Synagogue CSENGERY U.
pp102–3 HUNYAGI
i House of Terror Museum Streets and Squares TÉR

Historic Buildings 1 Vigadó Square Oktogon KIRÁLY U.
and Monuments 2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square
5 Váci Street ANDRÁSSY ÚT.
3 Turkish Bank r Jewish Quarter
4 Pest County Hall

7 Klotild Palaces

8 City Council Chamber Opera KIRÁLY U. ERZSÉBET
0 Ervin Szabó Library
t New York Palace ANDRÁSSY ÚT. PAULAY EDE U. VASVÁRY P. U.

y Liszt Academy of Music CSÁNYI KÖRÚT
u New Theatre KIS
KERTÉSZ
U.
DIÓFA U.
ZNJSÓDÁTEEEZDÉFÁrSRzOKEAshéRFFTEHíbRdRePTAÉEEtGIRNSLIMCPTAOSIIUBNZS..TUACADUA.BU.UDNA. ADUEU.VRS.ÁZARTSOÉJÉSTRBHÓÁEZTÚUTK..DFÁeeRBZráeOsakn.LjúctFYcÁKtseeRtyOKrréOe-eÖSrLnYRSIcÚUiKeRTTIRFUkEHÁMRLEBYLNAC.CUHZH.UYOSL.I..LÓUU..U. KLAUZÁL
KAZINCZ TÉRU.

SzLéácnhcehnídyi JÓ Y U. ERZSÉBETVÁROSDOB U.

EÖTVÖS AKÁCFA U.
TÉR KLAUZÁL U.

NAGY DIÓFA U.
Danube Vörösmarty DOB U. WESSELÉNYI U. DOHÁNY U. Blaha
tér R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. Lujza Tér
BLAHA
JANE GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. LUJZA JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
TÉR
H VÁCI U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U.
VAS U. STÁHLY U.
A SZENTKIRÁLYI U.

APÁCZAI U. PETÕFI S. U. Astoria
NING RAK

PA MÚZEUM PUSKIN U.

R

T GUTENBERG
TÉR
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
Rákóczi tér

K K HORÁNSZKY U.

VERES U. ÖRÚT MÁRIA U.

MAGYAR

BELVÁROS PÁLNÉ KIRÁLYI U. MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U.

U. SZERB U. PÁL KÁLVIN BAROSS U.
MOLNÁR TÉR

VÁCI U. Kálvin MÁRIA U.
U. tér JÓZSEF KÖRÚT

U. VÁMHÁZ KRT

FŐVÁM Ü L LÕ I
TÉR
Fővám LÓNYAY U. RÁDAY U. IX ÚT
tér
See also Street Finder

maps 2 & 4 CSARNOK KINIZSI U. Corvin
TÉR Negyed
KNÉZITS
Danube KÖZRAKTÁR U.
U.

0 metres 400 RÁDAY U. FERENC KÖRÚT
LÓ N YAY
0 yards 400

U.

Ornate façade on Váci Street, which, like much of central Pest, is pedestrianized For keys to map symbols see back flap

96  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street

The northern section of Váci Street has been Budapest’s fashionable
area for walking, meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques
since the early 19th century. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable
place for a stroll in the evening, when it is stylishly illuminated.

Gerbeaud Cukrászda
is one of the best
patisseries in town.

Vigadó DOROTTYA U Holy Figures adorn the
concert 19th-century façade of the
hall Baroque Servite Church.

3 Turkish
Bank
VIGADÓ
U VÁCI UTCA

2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square DEÁK
A Carrara marble monument FERENC
to the poet Mihály Vörösmarty U
stands in this square. The statue
was created by Ede Telcs and RÉGIPOSTA
symbolizes the Hungarian UTCA
nation united in the poet’s
words: “Your homeland,
Hungary, serve unwaveringly”.

Thonet House was built in 1888– U
90 by Ödön Lechner (see p87) and PESTI
Gyula Pártos. The building stands
today in its original form, featuring Remains of Contra
Zsolnay ceramics from Pécs. Aquincum

Péterffy Palace, now the Százéves
Étterem, is one of Pest’s few
remaining Baroque mansions. Built
by András Mayerhoffer in 1755 for
the magistrate János Péterffy, above
the gateway there is a beautiful
balcony supported by atlantes.

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

CENTRAL PEST  97Danube

AROUND
PARLIAMENT

CENTRAL
PEST

GELLÉRT
HILL AND

TABÁN

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4

5 . Váci Street
Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there
are old courtyards and shopping arcades.

Párizsi Udvar is found on the
corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi

Sándor utca. The arcade,
currently closed for renovation,

is set to become a hotel with
shops downstairs.

PARIZSI U

UTCA U 7 . Klotild Palaces
VÁCI KIGYÓ These beautifully decorated twin buildings,

0 metres 50 designed as elegant apartment blocks in
0 yards 50 the Historicist style, flank each side of the

approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.

Key
Suggested route

6 . Inner City Parish Church
This limestone and marble

tabernacle, in the church, dates
from the early 16th century

98  BUDAPEST AREA BY AREA

marble and bronze; ceiling
stucco-work in Louis XIV style;
chandeliers, lamps and Secession-
style chairs brought from Paris.
A tempting selection of frothy
coffees, cakes, pastries and
desserts is on offer. In summer,
refreshments can be taken on a
terrace overlooking the square.

3 Turkish Bank

Török Bankház

Szervita tér 3. Map 4 D1.
q Deák Ferenc tér.

Outdoor seating of the elegant Gerbeaud café, on Mihály Vörösmarty Square Dating from 1906 and designed
by Henrik Böhm and Ármin
1 Vigadó Square after whom the square is Hegedűs, the building that
named. Unveiled in 1908, it formerly housed the Turkish
Vigadó tér is the work of Ede Telcs. Behind Bank is a wonderful example
the monument, on the eastern of the Secession style.
Map 4 D1. v 2. side of the square, is the Luxus
department store. It is located Modern construction
The Vigadó concert hall in a three-storey corner building methods were used to create
dominates the square with its dating from 1911 and designed the glass façade, which is set
mix of eclectic forms. Built to by Kálmán Giergl and Flóris Korb. in reinforced concrete. Above
designs by Frigyes Feszl from the fenestration, in the gable,
1859 to 1864, it replaces a The main attraction on the is a magnificent colourful
predecessor destroyed by fire northern side of the square is the mosaic created by Miksa Róth.
during the uprising of 1848–9 renowned patisserie, Gerbeaud Entitled Glory to Hungary, it
(see pp46–7). The façade has Cukrászda, first opened by Henrik depicts the country paying
arched windows and includes Kugler in 1858. It was taken over homage to the Virgin Mary, its
features such as folk motifs, by his business partner, the Swiss patron saint, Patrona Hungariae
dancers on columns and busts pâtissier Emil Gerbeaud, who (see p91). Angels and shepherds
of former monarchs, rulers and was responsible for the richly surround the Virgin, along with
other Hungarian personalities. decorated interior which survives figures of Hungarian political
An old Hungarian coat of arms to this day. It features heroes, such as Prince Ferenc
is also visible in the centre. fine woods, Rákóczi (see pp45), István
Széchenyi (see pp46) and Lajos
The Budapest Marriott Hotel,
located on one side of the Kossuth (see p82).
square, was designed by József
Finta in 1969. It was one of the
first modern hotels to be built
in Budapest.

On the Danube promenade
is a statue of a childlike figure
sitting on the railings: Little
Princess, by László Marton. Vigadó
Square also has numerous craft
stalls, cafés and restaurants.

2 Mihály Vörösmarty
Square

Vörösmarty Mihály tér

Map 2 D5. q Vörösmarty tér.

In the middle of this splendid Glory to Hungary, the mosaic on the façade of the Turkish Bank
pedestrianized square stands a
monument depicting the poet
Mihály Vörösmarty (1800–55),

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285