EYEWITNESS TRAVEL HUNGARY

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION  299

prostitutes (of which there are

many in and around railway

stations at night) should be

avoided, as they are often run

by criminals. In general, all of

Hungary’s railway stations can be

rather unsafe places at night, as

they are popular places for drunks

and petty criminals to hang out.

All visitors must take care

not to overstay their welcome –

most tourists are permitted to

stay in the country for up to

90 days without a temporary

residence permit. Visitors who

extend their stay beyond the

90 days and then attempt to

leave the country may be hit Ornately decorated interior of a pharmacy, Budapest

with a large fine, or prevented

from leaving. for, as do hospital stays. The Hungary, and there are no

actual cost incurred by a visitor specific health risks associated

Emergencies will depend on Hungary’s recip­ with the country. Tap water
rocal agreement with the rele­ is perfectly safe to drink, but

The emergency telephone vant country. EU citizens are bottled waters are cheap and of

number for police, fire or entitled to free treatment and high quality. Food hygiene laws

ambulance is 112, and all hospital stays, although they are strictly enforced, so food

operators speak English, French will usually be asked to pay for poisoning is now rare, but it

and German. There is also an medicines. Keep any receipts for never hurts to be circumspect

English­language Tourist treatments or prescriptions, and when deciding to eat at smaller

Information Service, run by ask for a signed, stamped doc­ buffets or street food stands.

Tourinform, which can provide tor’s report if an insurance claim Mosquitoes can be a problem

information on English­ is to be made. Visitors should in high summer, especially

speaking police stations, and also note that tipping doctors around Lake Tisza.

give general advice if visitors are and nurses is still widespread (a DIRECTORY

lost or need other kinds of relic of the Communist system). Emergencies
assistance. The telephone The Hungarian word for
number is (1) 438 80 80; it
“pharmacy”or “chemist”is

operates around the patika, although English-Language
clock. Visitors who the German word Emergency Hotline
believe they have Apotheke is also widely (Tourinform)
been overcharged in use. Hungary’s
by a restaurant, or a pharmacies are strictly Tel (1) 438 80 80.

taxi driver, should report regulated and by law General Emergencies

the incident to the Sign for a pharmacy have to be owned by Tel 112.

police. Officers can be their pharmacists. There Embassies
approached in the street or at are therefore no pharmacy chains,

any police station. and finding a 24­hour pharmacy Australian Embassy
can be difficult. If the nearest Mattiellistrasse 2–4, Vienna, Austria.
Healthcare pharmacy is closed, there should Tel +43 (1) 50 67 40.
be a list displayed – either on the
Even during Communist times door or in the window – of all British Embassy
Hungary was a world leader in local chemists, including those Harmincad utca 6, Budapest.
medical research and develop­ who will be open on 24­hour Tel (1) 266 28 88.
ment. Hungarian doctors are emergency duty. In practice, ∑ www.gov.uk

superb, though underpaid, and however, the list is often missing. Canadian Embassy
standards in hospitals and even Tourinform or residents of the Ganz utca 12–14, Budapest.

local clinics in small towns and area should be able to help in Tel (1) 392 33 60.

villages are generally high. such situations. ∑ hungary.gc.ca

Emergency treatment is in theo­ Most dental treatment is US Embassy
ry free for all, although visitors relatively cheap in Hungary, and, Szabadság tér 12, Budapest.
should take out a good health in fact,“dental tourism”from other Tel (1) 475 44 00.
insurance policy before travel­ countries is a growing industry. ∑ hungary.usembassy.gov
ling abroad. Any treatment (and Visitors do not need any special

all medicines) need to be paid vaccinations to travel to

300  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Currency

Although a member of the European Union (EU) since 2004, An ATM cash dispenser, typically found all
Hungary has not yet joined the Eurozone. Hungary still uses its over the country
own currency, the forint (although many places will also accept
dollars and euros). The banking system is generally excellent, banknotes or other kinds of
and there are cash machines (ATMs) everywhere, as well as fraud and deception.
foreign exchange bureaux. It is advisable to change money in
a bank, as exchange rates are better, and the commission is Visitors should try to spend
far lower. The use of credit and debit cards is widespread, and all their Hungarian coins before
most banks will advance cash on Visa cards and MasterCards. leaving the country.

Banks The easiest way to procure DIRECTORY

There are plenty of banks in local cash is with a card in a Banks

all cities and towns, all providing cash machine. ATM machines Erste Bank
Népfürdő utca 24–6, Budapest.
a good service. Many of the are found everywhere and, Tel (1) 298 02 22.
∑ erstebank.hu
branches have been modern- although your card issuer
OTP
ized and the staff are all will usually charge fees for Nádor utca 6, Budapest.
Tel (1) 366 63 88 (from abroad).
courteous and helpful. Their every transaction, the rate of ∑ otpbank.hu

opening times vary, but the exchange is usually similar to Raiffeisen Bank
Akadémia utca 6, Budapest.
normal hours are 9am–5pm. that of the National Bank of Tel (1) 48 44 400 (from abroad).
∑ raiffeisen.hu
Banks do not close for lunch. Hungary at the time of the
UniCredit Bank
Most banks are transaction. Szabadság tér 5–6, Budapest.
Tel (1) 301 12 71 or
closed at week- This method of (1) 325 32 00 (from abroad).
∑ unicreditbank.hu
ends and on obtaining cash
Credit Cards and
public holidays. Logo of the UniCredit Bank often works out Traveller’s Cheques

The largest banks, far cheaper than American Express
Váci út 33, Budapest.
with branches in all towns, are using a bureau de change. Tel (1) 235 43 00.

UniCredit Bank, Erste Bank, Credit and debit cards are Discover Card
(lost/stolen cards and
Raiffeisen and OTP. almost universally accepted customer service)
Tel 00-1-801-902-3100
in Budapest. Traveller’s cheques (toll-free in US).

Currency Exchange can usually only be changed MasterCard
at a bank, and then at high (lost/stolen cards and
customer service)
Since Hungary joined the EU commission rates – they are Tel (80) 01 25 17.

there have been no limits on best avoided. American Express Visa
(lost/stolen cards and
the amount of foreign or local cashes its own traveller’s customer service)
Tel (80) 01 76 82.
currency that can be brought cheques free of charge.

in or taken out of the country. There are also a number of

Visitors arriving with foreign Automatic Currency Exchange

currency should change this at Machines, where foreign

a bank. Although independent currency is inserted to obtain

exchange bureaux may appear forints in exchange.

to offer better rates of Visitors may occasionally be

exchange, or lower commission, approached by locals, offering

they sometimes advertise only to exchange currency at a

their rates for buying local cur- better rate than the banks.

rency, not for selling. Most also This is to be avoided in all

charge additional fees ,which circumstances – it is illegal

are not clearly signposted. and likely to involve faked

Local branch of Erste Bank in Keszthely

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION  301

Banknotes

Hungary’s currency is the forint (Ft).
Banknotes come in denominations of 500,
1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 20,000. It
can be difficult to pay using Ft 10,000 and
20,000 banknotes, especially in small
stores or taxis.

1,000 forints 500 forints
2,000 forints
5,000 forints 10,000 forints

20,000 forints 5 forints 10 forints

Coins
The forint is available in six coin
denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200
forints. All cash transactions are therefore
rounded up or down to the nearest unit
of 5 or 10, if necessary. The international
currency code for the forint is HUF.

20 forints 50 forints 100 forints 200 forints

302  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media

The Hungarian landline telephone system is first class. There Public telephone boxes are painted in
are a number of operators, including Magyar Telekom, part a variety of colours
of Deutsche Telekom. Public telephones are operated by
using coins or calling cards, although calls to the emergency since they are legally bound to
services are free. Phone boxes no longer contain telephone identify you. Carry your passport
directories. However, the telephone information system or ID card along with you.
provides a directory enquiry service (see Directory). In recent
years, Hungary’s landlines have been joined by several Internet, Wi-Fi and Fax
nationwide mobile telephone networks. All mobile telephone
operators offer foreign-language information services. The Most hotels, airports, train stations
country’s postal service is efficient – priority mail sent within and large shopping centres offer
Hungary should arrive the next day – although post offices internet services. There are cheap
themselves can be frustrating to use. internet cafés around the country,
and even the smallest village
Making a Phone Call not have a GSM phone may not. usually has at least one access
To make sure you can use your point. In larger towns and cities,
To make a call from a public mobile phone while in Hungary, there are also Wi­Fi hotspots
phone kiosk, using a calling you will need to ensure that you for those with laptops or other
card from an operator such have roaming access enabled enabled devices, although you
as Neophone, Barangoló or before you leave home. Once will need to ensure compat­
Telecard is the best option, in Hungary most phones auto­ ibility before leaving home. Ask
and usually gives you better matically search for the network at the tourist office or at your
international rates than when with the strongest signal. If hotel for help in accessing the
using coins. They are available you want to use a particular public, and often free, Wi­Fi
in a number of denominations network, which may have an network with your device.
from post offices, street agreement with your home Alternatively, visit a café such as
vendors, service stations and network, thus offering reduced Farger in Budapest, with its free
most newspaper kiosks. Coin­ roaming charges, you should Wi­Fi service. If you want to access
operated phone boxes take change your phone setting mobile internet using a local SIM
10, 20, 50 and 100 forint coins, from automatic searching for card or by roaming, all operators
and you may occasionally find networks to manual. offer good 3G coverage, and 4G
a public phone that accepts networks are also expanding.
debit and credit cards. To make As of June 2017, visitors
an international call, dial 00 and travelling within the EU will not
wait for the dialling tone, then be charged roaming prices,
dial the country code followed thus paying the same prices
by the rest of the number. To as in their home country. If you
phone a Hungarian number will be spending longer periods
from abroad, the international in Hungary, it may be worth
access code is 36. To call long buying a local SIM card. All of
distance within Hungary, dial the local networks sell them;
06 followed by the city code. however, foreigners are advised
The area code for Budapest is to buy them from the official
1. If you have dialled an out­of­ showrooms of the operators,
date number, you will hear a
message or an error tone.

Mobile Phones An internet café, now to be found even in the smallest village

Most Hungarians are mobile­
crazy, and almost everyone has
at least one. Coverage of the
country is almost total, with
only a few remote areas of the
Northern Highlands not bene­
fiting from the presence of at
least one of the networks. Most
European visitors can use their
mobile phones in Hungary; US
and Australian visitors who do

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION  303

Postal Services Newspaper kiosk, selling newspapers, magazines and phone cards

The Hungarian postal service all cable and satellite operators. DIRECTORY
(Magyar Posta) is as bureaucratic There is also usually a variety
and inefficient today as it was of German­language news and Communications
during Communist times. If you entertainment channels.
need to use a post office, there­ International Directory
fore, set some time aside. Postage There are literally hundreds Enquiries
stamps can also often be pur­ of radio stations in Hungary. Tel 199.
chased from newspaper kiosks Most play a mix of international
and souvenir shops. Sending a and local pop and rock music, Postal services
postcard costs 335–390 forints but there are also stations
(under or just over €1.20) depen­ dedicated to classical, jazz, Post Office (Magyar Posta)
ding on the destination. Most folk music and more. Dunavirág utca 2–6, Budapest.
post offices are open Monday Customer Service: Tel (40) 46 46
to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Newspapers and 46.. ∑ posta.hu
8am to 2pm on Saturday. For Magazines
urgent parcels, a courier service, Courier Services
such as DHL or Federal Express, Hungary’s leading newspapers
will be more reliable. are the quality broadsheets DHL
Népszava, Magyar Hírlap, Tel (40) 45 45 45.
Addresses in Hungary, written and the Magyar Nemzet, ∑ dhl.hu
with the postcode first, can though there are hundreds
be confusing. See p297 for of other newspapers published Federal Express
more information. around the country, many Tel (40) 98 09 80.
of them regional. ∑ fedex.com/hu
A Hungarian postbox, Budapest
There is one English­language Internet and Wi-Fi
TV and Radio Hungarian publication, the
bi­weekly Budapest Business Farger
Almost every hotel room in Journal (BBJ), which provides Zoltán utca 18, Budapest.
Hungary – even in budget financial and business news for Tel (20) 237 78 25.
hotels – now has a television Hungary. The Budapest Timeout ∑ farger.hu
equipped to receive a variety of guide is a monthly entertain­
domestic, national, cable or ments listing magazine. Major Foreign Newspapers
satellite channels. The widely foreign publications can be
available Hungarian television bought at central newspaper House of the World Press
station is the state­run MTV kiosks, railway stations, the Városház utca 3–5, Budapest.
(not to be confused with the airport and at House of the Tel (1) 317 13 11.
music channel), which operates World Press in Budapest. Relay
several channels, while TV2 and Székesfehérvár and Relay Relay Debrecen
RTL Klub are the largest and Debrecen are two other Debrecen Station, Petőfi tér 12,
most popular private stations. suppliers. Foreign papers are Debrecen.
All imported programmes in less widely available outside the
Hungary are dubbed into capital, apart from German Relay Székesfehérvár
Hungarian, so visitors are more newspapers and magazines, Székesfehérvár Station,
likely to be interested in BBC sometimes found in the Lake Béke tér 3, Székesfehérvár.
World, CNN and EuroNews, the Balaton resorts during the high
three English­language news season summer holidays.
channels usually carried by

304  SURVIVAL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Most visitors arrive in Hungary by crossing the border from EU countries
air, at Budapest’s only major airport, (Austria, Romania, Slovakia, Croatia
Ferenc Liszt International. A second and Slovenia) is quick and problem-free,
international airport, known as Hévíz- while crossing from the Ukraine or Serbia
Balaton, is located near Keszthely, and a can often involve long queues. Visitors
third has opened in Debrecen. Hungary can also travel into Hungary along the
has borders with no less than seven Danube, on scheduled summer boat
countries, so there are numerous road services from Bratislava and Vienna or
and rail entry points. As a rule of thumb, hydrofoils from Vienna.

Arrival by Air centre for about 4,400

Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt forints (€15; one way).
International airport is served
by a large number of inter­ There may be a wait
national airlines, including
British Airways, Delta, KLM/ until there are enough
Northwest Airlines, Lufthansa,
and several low­cost carriers. passengers heading in
For travellers from the northern
hemisphere, there are direct the same direction. All
flights into Budapest from
over 70 cities, including most licensed taxis in Budapest
European capitals.
are yellow and operate
Ferenc Liszt International has
two terminals, but Terminal 1 on a standard tariff. The
is closed indefinitely. Terminal
2 serves both low­cost airlines fare to the city centre
and scheduled carriers,
including easyJet, Air Berlin is typically 6,000–8,000
and Wizzair.
One of Budapest’s official fleet of yellow taxis forints (€19–25).
Hévíz-Balaton, at Sármellék
near Keszthely, is served by Getting from and At Hévíz­Balaton airport,
Ryanair from London Stansted to the Airport Fly­Car minibuses and Zala Volán
and Air Berlin from Berlin. buses run to Keszthely and other
Another way to get to
Budapest and northwestern Ferenc Liszt International is villages in the region. There are
Hungary is via a flight to neigh­
bouring Vienna or Bratislava. located 16 km (10 miles) south­ also hire cars and cheap taxis.
Northeastern Hungary can
be accessed via Wizzair, which east of Budapest city centre and
flies from London Luton to
Debrecen Airport. is served by a public bus service Arrival by Train
to Kőbánya­Kispest metro

station, the last stop of metro Budapest has direct rail links with

line 3 (from just after midnight more than 25 other European

to 3:30am, it connects with a cities, and several trains a day

city night bus into the centre). arrive here from Paris, Vienna,

Tickets and passes can be Bratislava, Munich, Bucharest

bought from purple ticket and Sofia. The rail journey from

vending machines or from London to Budapest is easy and

the BKK (Centre for Budapest takes just 24 hours, via Eurostar

Transport) customer service at to Paris, Orient Express to Vienna

the airport. An Airport Minibus and InterCity “Avala” to Budapest.

Service takes passengers to and There are also daily trains

from any address in the city from Krakow, Warsaw, Minsk,

Moscow and Kiev. Trains for

most other cities in Hungary,

such as Pécs, Debrecen, Győr

and Miskolc, depart from

Budapest. InterRail and Eurail

Passes are valid in Hungary.

Ferenc Liszt International airport, Budapest Budapest’s Railway
Stations

There are three main railway
stations in Budapest – Keleti
pu (east), Nyugati pu (west)
and Déli pu (west). Most inter­
national trains operate to and
from Keleti pu, the exception
being rail traffic to and from
Croatia (Déli pu).

TRAVEL INFORMATION  305

longer heading the other way.
The trip is fairly expensive:
tickets cost 40,000 forints (€125)
return for adults. The hydrofoil
arrives and departs in Budapest
from the jetty at Belgrád rakpart,
on the Pest side of the river,
halfway between Szabadság
and Erzsébet bridges.

The lofty ticket hall in the famous West Train Station, designed by Gustafe Eiffel, in Budapest DIRECTORY

All three stations are on the Apart from petrol, motorists Airports
Budapest metro system, and need to budget for road tolls,
just a couple of stops from overnight stops and motorway Debrecen Airport
the city centre. The buildings tax discs for Austria and Hungary. Tel (52) 52 11 92.
are grand from the outside ∑ debrecenairport.com
but unwelcoming inside, and Hungary has more than
potentially dangerous for 100 road border crossings, Ferenc Liszt International
lone travellers late at night. although in practice many Tel (1) 296 70 00.
of these are unstaffed and (flight information)
Arrival by Coach not always open. The main ∑ bud.hu
and most frequently used
Volánbusz and Eurolines Coach border crossing is Nickelsdorf/ Hévíz-Balaton Airport
Services travel to Budapest Hegyeshalom from Vienna; Tel (83) 20 03 04.
from 13 countries (including Vienna also has the only direct (flight information)
Great Britain, Belgium, France, motorway link to Budapest. ∑ hevizairport.com
Germany and Austria). They Other major border points are
arrive at Népliget, Budapest’s at Schachendorf/Búcsú from Airlines
international coach station, Graz in Austria and Rusovce/
from where the M3 metro Rajka from Bratislava in Slovakia. Air Berlin
line can be accessed. The ∑ airberlin.com
international routes are served To drive in Hungary, a valid
by luxury coaches with facilities driving licence with a photo or British Airways
such as air conditioning. an international driving licence ∑ ba.com
and adequate insurance are
required (see also pp308–9). easyJet
∑ easyjet.com
Arrival by Car Arrival by Ferry
Ryanair
The driving distance from Perhaps the most exotic way to ∑ ryanair.com
London to Budapest, using arrive in Hungary is by boat, on
motorways, is 1,834 km the Danube: Mahart PassNave Wizzair
(1,140 miles). The fastest route, operates daily hydrofoil services ∑ wizzair.com
via France, Brussels, Germany from Vienna to Budapest (Apr–Oct).
and Austria, would take about The downstream journey takes Low-cost airlines (all)
17 hours if driving nonstop. 5 hours 20 minutes; it’s a little ∑ flycheapo.com

Rail Travel

European Rail (Eurail)
Passes
∑ raileurope.com

Hungarian Railways (MÁV)
Andrássy út 35. Tel (1) 444 44 99.
∑ mav.hu
(general information)
∑ elvira.hu
(timetable)

Coach Travel

Eurolines
∑ eurolines.com

Ferries

Mahart PassNave
Belgrád rakpart, Budapest.
Tel (1) 484 40 00.
∑ mahartpassnave.hu

Luxury coaches serve international destinations

306  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Travelling Around Hungary stop even more frequently. The
“slow trains”, személyvonat, stop
Hungary’s excellent railway network makes it relatively easy at every single town, village
to travel around. The train is probably the easiest mode of and hamlet. Painfully slow, they
transport for longer distances as the fares are also fairly low. should be avoided unless the
However, the road infrastructure is also rapidly expanding destination is not served by a
and improving (for information on driving in Hungary, see faster train.
pp308–9). There are InterCity buses, but these are often slow
and crowded, though undeniably cheap. During the summer Tickets are priced according
many of the towns on the Danube Bend, north of Budapest, to distance travelled, and the
can be reached by ferry, a most enjoyable way of travelling. type of train used. InterCity
There are no internal flights in Hungary. trains are the most expensive,
személyvonat the cheapest.
Travelling by Train Ticket office at Déli Station, Budapest In addition to the ticket, a seat
reservation is required whenever
Virtually all trains in Hungary requiring a seat reservation, a service is marked with an R,
are operated by MÁV (Magyar which run to all corners of as well as busy services
Államvasutak), a state-owned Europe. The best domestic (otherwise, you will travel
company; one other company, trains are the InterCity (IC) standing up). For InterCity
GYSEV, which is co-owned by services for which a supplement services, reservations are usually
the Austrian and Hungarian is levied. They are very quick included in the ticket price.
governments, operates trains and comfortable, but currently
and maintains rails in parts of only serve a limited number of Buying tickets and making
western Hungary. MÁV usually cities to and from Budapest, reservations can be difficult
runs a very good, reliable and stop at few – if any – places outside of Budapest, as little
service, which offers excellent in between. Next in line are English is spoken. It is therefore
value for money. Almost all of sebesvonat services, which are advisable to learn in advance
the country’s major cities and less comfortable and stop at how to pronounce the desired
towns are connected by train more stations, while gyorsvonat destination correctly. Almost
services, as are a surprisingly (literally “fast” trains) services all tickets are singles (egy útra),
large number of smaller towns as the system of charging per
and villages. The one problem kilometre makes the notion
is that the network is very of returns redundant. Returns
much focused on Budapest, (retúr) can be bought to be sure
and so often the quickest route of a reservation in advance, but
from A to B involves a detour the price will almost always be
to the capital. exactly double that of a single.

There are five different types A good way of ensuring that
of train in Hungary, offering you get the ticket and train
varying degrees of speed and service you require is to buy all
comfort. The fastest and most tickets in advance in Budapest,
luxurious trains are the inter- at the main MÁV office. Here,
national Express services (Ex), English and German are spoken
and you can buy tickets for every
destination in Hungary, and make
reservations for up to 60 days
before departure. A useful service
is also provided by Wasteels, the
international rail ticketing agent,
which has an office at Keleti
Station (see Directory).

At the stations it is important
to know that indulás means
“departures” and érkezés
“arrivals”. The Hungarian word
for “platform”is vágány. The entire
railway timetable for all routes
in Hungary is also posted on
the internet, in English, with full
pricing and routing information.

An Express train in Nyugati Station, Budapest Travelling by Bus

The state-owned Volánbusz
company operates an extensive
network of buses serving every

TRAVEL INFORMATION  307

corner of Hungary. Its fleet of People waiting on one of the platforms at West Train Station, Budapest
1,000 buses reach parts of the
country even személyvonat coach journey in Hungary, as the services of a guide, who
trains do not get to, and visitors well as for Eurolines services. will point out any sights on
intending to visit the more The Volánbusz timetable is the route, in several languages.
remote areas of the Great Plain available on the Internet. There are additional cruises
or the Northern High lands can to popular places, such as
be certain that one of these Travelling by Boat Mohács, Solt-Révbérpuszta
buses will take them there. and Kalocsa.
One of the most enjoyable
Volánbusz services are ways of travelling around DIRECTORY
usually prompt and reliable, Hungary is by boat. During
but single-carriageway roads the summer Mahart PassNave Trains
may, of course, slow them operates daily services from
down. Though most of the Vigadó ter in Budapest to Buda Hills Children’s
fleet is modern and relatively Szentendre, Vác, Visegrád, Railway
comfortable, the buses Esztergom and Százhalom- Széchenyi-hegy, Budapest.
themselves are often crowded. batta, with additional services Tel (1) 395 54 20.
On longer journeys a refresh- at weekends. The tickets are ∑ gyermekvasut.com
ment stop of around 15 minutes not cheap (from around
will be scheduled. As with 2,000–7,500 forints (€6–25) MÁV (Hungarian Railways)
the train network, almost all oneway for adults; children are Andrássy út 35.
services begin and end in half-price) but they do include Tel (1) 371 94 49 (general
Budapest at Népliget, Stadion information).
or Árpád Bridge bus stations. ∑ mav.hu (timetable)
These are easily reached on ∑ elvira.hu
the metro network, but note
that in some towns the coach MÁV Nostalgia Tours
station may be some distance ∑ mavnosztalgia.hu
outside the city centre.
Wasteels
Tickets generally cost less Kerepesi út 2–6, Keleti Station
than the second-class train (Platform 9), Budapest.
fare equivalent and can be Tel (1) 210 28 02, (1) 343 34 92.
obtained from the ticket offices ∑ wasteels.hu
at the bus stations. These are
usually open 6am–8pm daily.
Volánbusz also has a central
agency in Budapest, where
advance tickets can be
purchased for any bus or

Inter-City buses

Volánbusz/Eurolines
Űllöi út 131, Budapest.
Tel (1) 382 08 88 (general
information); (1) 219 80 63
(reservations).
∑ volanbusz.hu

Boats

Mahart PassNave
Belgrád rakpart, Budapest.
Tel (1) 484 40 00.
∑ mahartpassnave.hu

River boat in Budapest, passing the Royal Palace

308  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Travelling by Car Rules of the Road

Hungary is a small country: north to south, the greatest Visitors need to be 17 years old

to drive in Hungary, and have a

distance is 268 km (167 miles); east to west it is 528 km full photographic licence issued
(328 miles). Although the government has heavily invested by their home country. If you
in the motorway network, many towns remain connected by have a driving licence without
single-lane highways. Driving on these can be frustratingly a photo, you will need an
International Driving Licence.
slow, yet road surfaces are generally good, and traffic is not
Road safety is good, despite

too heavy, except for the rush hour in Budapest. The capital occasional severe weather
conditions. In winter, visitors may
is a very difficult city for a visitor to navigate, as there are be barred from entering Hungary
numerous one-way systems, making it easy to get lost. There unless their car is equipped with
are also few places to park, so exploring the city on foot and snow chains. Útinform advises
by public transport are better ideas. on current road conditions.

The law also obliges drivers

or by SMS using a local SIM card. to keep a first­aid kit and a

These are available for periods of warning triangle in the car.

10 days, one month and one year. There are several speed

A 10­day e­card for a family car cameras, many equipped to

costs around 4,500 forints (€15). monitor other offences (using a

Visitors caught driving on a motor­ bus lane, crossing lanes when

way without an e­card can expect prohibited, etc.) and although the

a fine of 14,875 forints (€47) if paid police may not stop you on site,

Clear directions to European and national within 30 days. When buying they will still automatically fine

roads, and a motorway your e­ticket, it is important you by sending a letter by post.

Road Standards that you supply your The maximum permitted
vehicle’s exact registration speed on motorways is

Hungary’s road network is number, as an effective 130 km/h (81 mph),

extensive, with more than and extensive 110 km/h (68 mph) on

30,000 km (18,641 miles) of camera system European roads, and

paved roads, of which 1,515 km with number­plate 90 km/h (56 mph)

(940 miles) are motorways. Most of recognition is on national roads. In

Hungary’s motorways (prefixed M) operated to enforce built­up areas the limit

lead to and from Budapest. The toll payment. is 50 km/h (30 mph). By

M0 ringroad circumnavigates All Hungary’s other One of the more unusual law, all passengers must

southern and eastern Budapest; roads – pre­fixed E for traffic signs wear seatbelts, and

M1 goes to Vienna via Győr; M3 European roads or H children under the age

goes to Miskolc, with branches to for national roads – are toll­free of 12 are not allowed to ride in the

Debrecen (M35) and Nyíregyháza for family cars. However, visitors front. Using a hand­held mobile

(M30); M5 goes to Szeged; M7 with bigger vehicles are advised phone while driving is illegal.

goes to Lake Balaton (South). to check the toll requirements To drive legally, the alcohol

To drive on Hungary’s prior to the journey. level in the bloodstream must

motorways visitors need to pur­ Signposting in Hungary is be zero mg – no drinking at all.

chase an e­card or e­vignette generally of a high standard, The law is very strictly enforced

(matrica) from a major petrol sta­ with town names and road and even first offenders risk

tion (MOL, Shell or OMV), online, numbers clearly marked. prison for breaking it.

Hungarians drive on the right,

and at roundabouts vehicles

already on the roundabout have

priority. When driving outside

towns, it is compulsory to have

the headlights on, even during

daytime. Many rural junctions do

not have traffic lights, so always

stop when joining a main road,

even if there is no stop sign. Where

two minor roads meet and there

are no signs or traffic lights, the

car approaching from the right

has priority. This rule also applies

in cities when traffic lights are

flashing amber continuously

The M7 motorway from Nagykanizsa to Budapest (as they often do late at night).

TRAVEL INFORMATION  309

Road Signs

Hungarian road signs follow

the European standard, and
there are no solely Hungarian

signs. All visitors should be

aware of signs they may not
be familiar with, however.

As in the rest of Europe,

brown signs indicate recom- A petrol station operated by MOL, the state-run company
mended tourist areas, heritage
sites, tourist areas and Fuel and Services is the case before signing a
attractions along the road,
such as national parks, leisure There are plenty of service stations rental agreement. As well as
centres or historic buildings.

on major roads and in towns and the international companies,

Parking cities, but they can be few and there are smaller, local firms.

far between in rural areas. All offer While they at first seem to be

In most cities and towns there unleaded petrol and diesel, and cheaper, hidden costs can hike
is a charge for parking many stay open 24 hours. up the price. They may also not
anywhere near the city There are emergency be so reliable in case of accident

centre. Tickets must telephones on or breakdown.
be bought from the the motorways, Cars can be prebooked at
vending machines connected to the
airports and major hotels,

and displayed emergency services. although dropping them off
behind the If you break down at a different point incurs a
windscreen. The elsewhere, call the surcharge. Cars are usually

vending machines Magyar Autóklub or delivered with a full tank of
usually only accept AI Assis-tance for assis- petrol, and should be returned
100-forint coins, so it tance. You will have to in the same condition.

is best to keep a good pay but may be able DIRECTORY

number to hand. to recover this from Vehicle Recovery

Traffic wardens Parking offences may your insurance. AI Vehicle Assistance and
Recovery
inspect tickets bought result in being towed Tel (1) 266 89 49.

either at the parking Renting a Car
meters or by mobile phone

texting, and should you fail to All major international car

pay or exceed the time period hire firms have offices in

you prepaid for, they will leave Hungary, but car hire here is Magyar Autóklub (MAK)
a notice containing a hefty fine relatively expensive. Drivers Tel 188.
on your windscreen. Parking must be aged 21 or over, and
on streets where there are no have held a valid driving licence Road Conditions

public car parking spaces is free for at least one year. A deposit Útinform
but risky – locals sometimes is usually required. Most major Tel (1) 366 24 00/01/02/03.
damage unfamiliar cars that are companies include unlimited ∑ internet.kozut.hu
parked in their favourite spot. mileage, though check that this

Using a Parking Meter 2 When the display panel Car Rental
shows the time you require,
press the green button to Avis
request a ticket. Arany János utca 26–28,
Budapest. Tel (1) 318 42 40.
∑ avis.hu

1 Insert coins for the required Budget
time, or insert a parking card. Krisztina krt. 41–43, Budapest.
The parking meter indicates Tel (1) 214 04 20.
the maximum and minimum ∑ budget.hu
parking charges.
Europcar
3 To cancel and terminate Erzsébet tér 9–10, Budapest.
your transaction press, the Tel (1) 505 44 00.
red button. ∑ europcar.com

4 Your ticket Hertz
appears here. Tel (1) 296 09 99 or 235 60 08.
∑ hertz.hu

310  SURVIVAL GUIDE

Travel in the Cities and trams. For each new journey,
a new ticket has to be stamped
Most of Hungary’s cities have good public transport networks, (but not when changing lines on
making use of modern buses, trolleybuses, trams and – in the metro). Children under six
Budapest – a metro system and a suburban railway network. travel free. Visitors can also buy a
Most city centres are also very pedestrian-friendly, with a 24-hour group travelcard for
growing number of streets in the city centres now being Ft 3,300 (€11) that allows up to
declared car-free. Budapest aside, most city centres are small, five people to travel together for
with many sights within easy walking distance of each other. a day. Season tickets for 1, 3 or 7
Even in Budapest the excellent public transport makes days’travel and a range of passes
getting around quick and easy. are sold at metro stations and
from vending machines, as are
Public Transport in area, and the route of each line books of ten tickets for Ft 3,000
Budapest hangs above the doors in each (€10). The Budapest Card (Ft 4,900
(€14) for 24 hours, Ft 7,900 (€26)
Budapest has four metro lines. carriage. A recorded voice for 48 hours or Ft 9,900 (€32) for 72
hours) allows free use of public
The oldest line is the M1 line, also announces the name of the next transport and various discounts in
museums and at tourist sights.
known as the Millennium line, as station. The metro runs from
A typical hév train carriage, serving
it was built for the Hungarian around 4:30am until 11:30pm. suburban stations

Millennium celebrations in 1894. There are also 30 tram lines and The Hév

The Budapest Metro was the first over 200 bus routes in Budapest. Budapest and its suburbs also
benefit from hév trains, an effi-
electric underground railway Trams are yellow; buses, blue. cient and reliable – if sometimes
slow – suburban rail service.
system in continental Europe. Its Trams are an efficient way of tra- Trains serve all of Budapest’s
suburbs, as well as a number of
original stations, all wood and versing the city, as they avoid road towns further afield, including
Szentendre, Gödöllő and
wrought iron, as well as its traffic and run frequently. Ráckeve. HÉV trains are green,
and depart from Batthyány tér
small trains, make it a One ticket is valid on all for Szentendre, from Örs vezér
tere for Gödöllő and the
sight in itself. The line forms of public transport Hungaroring Formula One cir-
cuit, and from Közvágóhíd for
serves central Pest, in Budapest. Tickets can Ráckeve. Standard Budapest
transport tickets and passes are
Andrássy út and be purchased from metro valid for journeys on hév trains
within Budapest, but for journeys
Városliget. Metro line M2 stations and newspaper beyond the city limits tickets
costing from 250 forints (under
was built in the 1970s, but kiosks, and from ticket €1) can be purchased at station
entrances or automated kiosks.
has been modernized to Signs for the M2 and vending machines sited Information and timetables for
travel on Budapest’s metro and
cater for increased M3 metro lines at several main junctions hév trains, as well as buses, can
be obtained from BKK who run
commuter levels. The and stops. They can be Budapest’s transport system.

high-tech M4 crosses the river bet- bought (for cash only, and at a

ween Buda and Pest, while M3, the slightly higher price) on board

longest of the lines, serves Pest some vehicles, but not all, so are

only. Two important words to rem- best bought in advance. A single

ember when using the metro are journey ticket costs 350 forints (€1).

bejárat, meaning “entrance”, and The ticket must be validated in

kijárat, meaning “exit”. All metro machines located at the entrance

stations display maps of the local to metro lines or on board buses

Commuters using the escalators at a busy station on the Green metro line in Budapest

TRAVEL INFORMATION  311

been known to prey on
bewildered visitors.

In Budapest, all licensed taxis
are yellow, and all should have a
licence number issued by the city
council clearly displayed. They

should also post their tariffs, which

are standardized, on the wind-

screen or side of the passenger

door. These taxis must meet

set standards of comfort and

roadworthiness. The Green Taxi

service in the capital has a fleet

of electric cars.

Outside the capital, most taxis

Tram in Debrecen, with the Great Reformed Church in the background are operated by authorized taxi

Public Transport in trams 1 and 2 run from the train companies, and will display the
Other Cities station to the city centre, and on company name and telephone
number prominently. These are

While Budapest has the only to Diósgyőr Castle (see p231). In the taxis that should always be

metro network in Hungary, Pécs there is a sightseeing tourist used. Take extra care when get-

several large towns, including train which departs from ting into a taxi outside a railway

Debrecen, Miskolc and Szeged, opposite the Csontváry Museum station; it is always advisable to

have tram systems. Every (see p190), while agree a price for the

town (and even some smaller Szeged’s tram No. 1 journey in advance

villages) has bus services. As runs from the station with the driver. If this

a rule, all tickets need to be into the town centre. proves impossible, it

purchased before boarding the In Hungary may be better to look

means of transport, and then passengers are for another taxi, even

franked or validated once on allowed to carry one if that means waiting.

board. Tickets can usually be piece of luggage and Taxis can be booked

bought from newspaper a children’s buggy on Sign denoting a taxi rank over the phone,

kiosks, and sometimes from buses and trams, but which is slightly

ticket machines. the bag must not be too large. cheaper, or hailed in the street.

It is important to validate Ticket inspectors may demand The best place to find a cab is

tickets, as there are many ticket an additional payment if a bag in the taxi ranks near major bus

inspectors, both in uniform is too large, or if more than one stations, squares, markets or

and plain clothes, who are bag is carried. railway stations. Most hotels

empowered to stop travellers and restaurants will be happy to

and demand to see their tickets Taxis phone for a taxi for their guests.
even after they have got off In fact, this may be cheaper than

their trains or buses. As elsewhere in the world, visitors hailing one.

In many towns trams can should be wary when getting DIRECTORY

double as cut-price city tours. In into a taxi anywhere in Hungary, Taxis
Debrecen, for instance, the only but especially at popular tourist
tram line runs from the railway places. While most taxis are safe,

station to the city’s large thermal cheap and a good way of getting 6x6 Taxi (1) 666 66 66.
bath complex, passing through around cities, many turn out
Budapest Taxi
the centre and past most impor- to be far more expensive than (1) 777 77 77.
tant sights on the way. In Miskolc expected, and they have

City Taxi (1) 211 11 11.

Fötaxi (1) 222 22 22.

Green Taxi (1) 400 00 00.

Taxi 2000 (1) 200 00 00.

Taxi4 (1) 444 44 44.

Tele5 (1) 555 55 55.

Local Transport

BKK
∑ bkk.hu

Licensed yellow taxis on the streets of Budapest

312  GENERAL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Around Parliament 80–93 Banking 300
main entries. hotels 264 The Baptism of Vajk (Benczúr) 38
Kossuth Square street-by-street 82–3 Barabás, Miklós, Placing the Cornerstone
A map 81
restaurants 276–7 102
Aba-Novák, Vilmos 245 Baradla Cave (Aggteleki National Park)
Abádszalók (Lake Tisza) 253 Árpád, Prince 39, 41, 79
Abbeys Árpád Memorial (Ópusztaszer 228–9
National Historical Memorial Park) Bárányfok 187
Abbey Church (Tihany Peninsula) 206 244 Barbarians 39
Bélapátfalva Abbey 224 Székesfehérvár 158 Barcsay, Jenő, Barcsay Collection
Pannonhalma Abbey 15, 76, 151, tapestry of 85
164–5, 180–81 (Szentendre) 144
St George’s Abbey Church (Ják) 166 Árpád dynasty 40–41 Bárdossy de Bárdos, László 47
Zirc Cistercian Abbey 151, 155, 161 Arrow Cross 47, 105, 191 Baroque architecture 29
see also Monasteries and convents Art Nouveau see Secession Barry, Charles 84
Ábrahám, Pál 89 Artists 31 Bartók, Béla 30, 230
Accommodation 262–9 Assumption of the Virgin (copy) (Titian)
Adami, Carlo 64 Béla Bartók archives (Budapest) 65
Addresses 297 148 Basketball 289
Agárd 154 Aszú wine 32, 33, 213, 232 Báthory, Count István 257
Aggteleki National Park 14, 228–9 ATMs 300 Báthory family 257
Air travel 304, 305 Attila, King of the Huns 39 Baths see Thermal springs and baths
Ajka 160 Auschwitz 47, 76, 104, 114, 191 Batthyány, Count Lajos 86
Albrecht V of Austria 41 Austro-Hungarian Empire see Dual Batthyány family 61, 188
Alexander II, Tsar 46 Batthyány Mansion (Körmend) 163
Alliance for Free Democrats (SZDSZ) 51 Monarchy Baumhorn, Lipót 259
Almásy Mansion (Gyula) 245 Autumn 36 Beaches
Alpár, Ignác 83, 86, 111, 258 Avars 39, 245
Altomonte, Martin 174, 179 Avas Hill (Miskolc) 230 Lake Balaton 198, 200, 205, 207
Aman, Johann 61 Lake Tisza 252–3
Amber Road 166, 174 B Petőfisziget 238
Ámos, Imre 143, 158 Beatrice of Naples 29, 42, 43
András I, King 206 Baczó (architect) 258 Bebo, Károly 110
András II, King 40, 41, 74 Badacsony 15, 205 Bed and Breakfast 263
András III, King 41 Beethoven, Ludwig van 65
András Hess Square (Budapest) 65 restaurants 282 Beethoven Memorial Museum
András Jósa Museum (Nyíregyháza) Badacsony Mountain 12, 15, 205 (Martonvásár) 154
258 Baja 13, 238 Béla III, King 40
Anjou, House of 41 tomb 67
Anna Cave (Bükk National Park) 225 hotels 269 Béla IV, King 40–41
Anna, Margit 31, 143, 158 restaurants 284 Citadel (Visegrád) 145
Anne de Châtillon 67 Bajnai, Gordon 22 and Jews 104
Anniversary of the 1956 Hungarian Bakócz, Cardinal Tamás 149 Mátyás Church (Budapest) 66
Uprising 37 Bakony Forest 151 and Mongols 231
Antal, Károly 86, 99 Bakony House (Veszprém) 209 and Princess Margit 112, 113
Antal, Reguly 155 Bakony Mountains 20, 155, 209 Royal Palace (Budapest) 57, 58
Antal Grassalkovich Mansion see Royal A Tour Around the Bakony 160–61 St István’s Cathedral (Székesfehérvár)
Palace of Gödöllő Bakony Regional Folk Museum 158
Anti-Semitism 47 (Veszprém) 209 Béla Bartók National Concert Hall
Antiques shops 119 Bakonybél 161 (Budapest) 115
Apáca Street (Pécs) 190 Bakonyjákó 160 Béla Kun Memorial (Memento Park)
Apartments 263 Bakonykoppány 160 116
Apor, Vimos 178 Balassa, Bálint, Bálint Balassa Museum Belgrade, Battle of 41, 187
Aprilis, Giuseppe 258 (Esztergom) 147 Belgrade Church (Szentendre) 142–3,
Aqua parks Balassagyarmat 216 144
Abádszalók (Lake Tisza) 253 Balaton, Lake 19, 183, 196–207 Belváros (Sopron) street-by-street
AquaCity Zalaegerszeg 289 hotels 267 172–3
Aquaticum Health and Spa Centre Lake Balaton Tour 198–9 Benczúr, Gyula 91, 258
(Debrecen) 255, 289, 290 One Week in Hungary 10, 13 The Baptism of Vajk 38
Lake Balaton 199 restaurants 282 Benedict, St 181
Aquaticum Health and Spa Centre sports and activities 184, 290, 291, Benedictine Church (Sopron) 10, 172,
(Debrecen) 255 292 174
Aquincum 28, 39, 107, 114 Two Days on Lake Balaton 12 Benedictine Grammar School
Archaeological Museum (Pécs) 191, Two Weeks in Hungary 15 (Pannonhalma Abbey) 180
192 Balaton Museum (Keszthely) 201 Benedictine Order 181
Archbishop’s Palace (Veszprém) 208, Balatonalmádi 207 Benkó, Károly 258
211 hotels 267 Bergl, Johann 100
Architects 31 Balatonberény 198 Bertinelli (artist) 146
Architecture 28–9 Balatonederics 204 Betekints Valley 209
Ark of the Covenant (Győr) 178 Balatonfenyves 198 Bethlen, Gábor 103
Armenians 195 Balatonföldvár 13, 199 Birds 24–5
Around Budapest 132–49 Balatonfüred 12, 207 Lake Kolon 239
getting around 134 festivals and events 34 Lake Tisza 252, 253
hotels 266 hotels 267 Lake Velence 154
map 134–5 restaurants 282 Tihany Peninsula 206
restaurants 279–80 Balatonlelle, hotels 267 see also National parks; Nature
Balatonmáriafürdő 198 reserves
Balatonszemes 199 Bíró, László 30, 31
Balkan influences 21 Bíró-Giczey House (Veszprém Vár) 210
Balogh, Péter, Bishop of Debrecen 254
Bandholtz, Harry Hill 86

GENERAL INDEX  313

Bishop’s Palace (Eger) 213, 220, 222 Bukovics, Gyula 86 Castles and fortifications (cont.)
Bishop’s Palace (Győr) 178 Bulcsú 250 Szigetvár Castle 194
Bishop’s Palace (Nyíregyháza) 258–9 Buldus, Bishop of Eger 223 Szigliget Castle 204–5
Bishop’s Palace (Pécs) 190 Bulgars 39 Szolnok Castle 245
Black Eagle Pharmacy Museum Bull’s Blood Wine 32, 213, 223 Vajdahunyad Castle (Budapest) 108,
Bureaux de change 300 109, 111
(Székesfehérvár) 157, 158 Buses Veszprém 161
Black Madonna of Czestochowa 76,
in cities 310, 311 Cathedrals
100 to/from airport 304 Eger Cathedral 220
Boat services 305, 307 travelling around Hungary 306–7 Esztergom Basilica 28, 111, 134,
Bodor Well (Margaret Island) 113 Busójárás Carnival (Mohács) 37, 186–7 148–9
Bodrog, River 232 Buzsák 199 Győr Cathedral 43, 178
Bogdányi Street (Szentendre) 143 Byzantines 39, 40 Kalocsa Cathedral 238
Böhm, Henrik 98 Ruins of Romanesque Cathedral
Bolsheviks 47 C (Eger) 223
Bonfini, Antonio 42 St Anna’s Cathedral (Debrecen)
Bornemissza Bastion (Eger Castle) 223 Cafés 270 254–5
Borsos, Miklós 79 see also Food and drink; Restaurants St István’s Cathedral (Székesfehérvár)
Bory, Jenő 159 156, 158
Bory Castle (Székesfehérvár) 159 Calasanctius, St Joseph 240 St Michael’s Cathedral (Veszprém)
Börzsöny Hills 133, 145 Calvin, John 245 208, 210
Bösinger, Ferenc Ignác 64 Calvinism 21, 213, 245 St Peter’s Cathedral (Pécs) 130, 180,
Bramante, Donato 29 Calvinist Church (Miskolc) 231 190
Breakdown services 309 Calvinist New College (Kecskemét) 243 St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 12,
Bronze Age 39, 188–9 Calvinist Reformed College (Debrecen) 18, 90–91, 120, 121
Bruegel, Pieter (the Elder) 110 Szombathely Cathedral 166
Brunelleschi, Filippo 29 245, 255
Brunswick, Antal 154 Camping 262–3 Catherine II, Empress of Russia 230
Brunswick family 154 Car Cave Church (Budapest) 73, 76
Brunswick Mansion (Martonvásár) 154 Caves
Buda arriving by 305
rental 309 Anna Cave (Bükk National Park) 225
Castle District 57–69 travelling by 308–9 Baradla Cave (Aggteleki National
Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79 Carmelite Church (Győr) 179 Park) 228–9
Turks capture 187 Carmelite Church (Székesfehérvár) 159 Buda Hills 115
Buda Hills 25, 107, 115, 145 Carmelite Monastery (Győr) 179 Istállóskő Cave (Szalajka Valley) 228
Buda Lutheran Church (Budapest) 68 Carnivals 37 Suba-Lyuk Cave (Bükk National Park)
Budapest 52–127 Carpathian Basin 19, 39 225
airport 304, 305 Casagrande, Marco 220 Tapolca Cave Lake 205
Around Parliament 80–93 Casinos 121, 289 CCTV 298
Budapest at a glance 54–5 Castle District (Budapest) 12, 56–69 Çelebi, Evliya 74
Castle District 56–69 hotels 264 Celts 39, 71, 78
Central Pest 94–105 map 57 Centenary Monument (Margaret
entertainment 120–21 restaurants 276 Island) 112
festivals and events 34, 35, 36 Royal Palace street-by-street 58–9 Central Market Hall (Budapest) 12, 118,
Further Afield 106–17 UNESCO listed 50 119
Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79 Castle Museum (Budapest History Central Pavilion (Lake Hévíz) 204
history 44–5, 47 Museum) 60 Central Pest 94–105
hotels 264–5 Castle Museum (Esztergom) 146 Around Váci Street street-by-street
importance of 23 Castle Museum (Szeged) 247 96–7
Jewish community 195 Castles and fortifications hotels 264–5
One Week in Hungary 10, 13 Bory Castle (Székesfehérvár) 159 map 95
public transport 310, 311 Citadel (Budapest) 72, 76–7 restaurants 277–9
railway stations 304–5 Citadel (Visegrád) 128–9, 140–41, Ceresola, Venerio 61, 64
restaurants 276–9 145 Chain Bridge (Budapest) 46, 81, 88,
shopping 118–19 Csesznek Castle 20 294–5
Street Finder 122–7 Diósgyőr Castle (Miskolc) 231 Chair lift (Buda Hills) 115
Two Days in Budapest 12 Eger Castle 213, 214, 222–3 Chapels
Two Weeks in Hungary 11, 14 Füzér Castle 232 Bakócz Chapel (Esztergom Basilica)
see also Around Budapest Gyula Castle 245 149
Budapest Holocaust Memorial Centre Heroes’ Gate (Veszprém) 208, 211 Esterházy Palace Chapel (Pápa) 160
114 Hölgykő Castle (Városlőd) 160 Festetics Palace (Keszthely) 203
Budapest Marathon 36 Hollókő Castle 212, 218 Gizella Chapel (Veszprém) 208
Budapest Operetta Theatre 89 Iron Age fortifications Ják Chapel (Budapest) 109, 111
Budapest Spring Festival 34 (Balatonföldvár) 199 Our Lady Chapel (Pannonhalma
Budapest Zoo 12, 107, 111, 121 Jurisics Castle (Kőszegs) 168 Abbey) 181
Budavári Borfesztivál (Budapest) 36 Kinizsi Castle (Nagyvázsony) 206 Royal Palace of Gödöllő 138
Bugac, restaurants 284 Magyaróvár Castle St Anne’s Chapel (Székesfehérvár) 156
Bugac Stud Farm (Nagybugac) 236, (Mosonmagyaróvár) 176, 177 St Jakab Chapel (Ják) 166
239 Monostor Fortress (Komárom) 177 Charles I, King 41
Bük 151, 167 Old City Walls (Sopron) 175 Charles III, King 178
hotels 266 Ruined Tower (Dunaföldvár) 186 Charles IV, King 47
restaurants 280 Sárospatak Castle 29, 43, 232–3 Chekhov, Anton 99
Bükfürdő 151 Sárvár Castle 166–7 Chess 27, 31, 290
Bükk Mountains 25, 214, 224, 225 Savoyai Castle (Ráckeve 136 Children
Bükk National Park 13, 14, 213, 215, Siklós Castle 43, 188 entertainment 121, 289
224–5 Sümeg Castle 162 in restaurants 271
Szeged Castle 247
Szerencs Castle 229

314  GENERAL INDEX

Children’s Railway (Buda Hills) 115, 121 Churches (cont.) Coronation Mantle (Hungarian
Christian Museum (Esztergom) 146–7 Reformed Church (Szerencs) 229 National Museum) 102
Christmas Eve 37 Roman Catholic Church of the
Christmas Gift Markets 37 Ascension (Sümeg) 162 Counter-Reformation 21, 45, 171, 245
Chronica Hungarorum 43, 65 Roman Catholic Church (Nyírbátor) County Hall (Sopron) 172
Churches 257 Courier services 303
St Anne’s Church (Budapest) 110 Cowboys see Csikósok
Abbey Church (Tihany Peninsula) 206 St Anne’s Church (Kapuvár) 176 Credit cards 300
Belgrade Church (Szentendre) 142–3, St Bertolan Parish Church (Gyöngyös)
144 216 accommodation 262
Benedictine Church (Sopron) 10, 172, St Emeric Piarist and Garrison Church restaurants 271
174 (Veszprém Vár) 211 Crime 298
Blagovestenska Church (Szentendre) St George’s Abbey Church (Ják) 166 Crystal 160
142 St Gotthard’s Church Csángó people 250
Buda Lutheran Church (Budapest) 68 (Mosonmagyaróvár) 176 Csaroda 257
Calvinist Church (Csaroda) 257 St Helen’s Church (Csorna) 176 Csepel Island 39, 136
Calvinist Church (Gödöllő) 137 St Imre Church (Kőszeg) 168 Cserhát Hills 218
Calvinist Church (Miskolc) 231 St István Church (Nagyvázsony) 206 Cseske, Lake 177
Calvinist Church (Nyírbátor) 257 St Pauline Church (Pécs) 191, 193 Csikósok (cowboys) 10, 19, 24, 131,
Calvinist Church (Ócsa) 136 St Peter Church (Őrizentpéter) 163 235
Carmelite Church (Győr) 179 St Stephen (Nagybörzsöny) 145 Bugac Stud Farm (Nagybugac) 236,
Carmelite Church (Székesfehérvár) St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 12, 239
159 18, 90–91, 120, 121 Csikós horse shows 239, 251
Catholic Church (Dombóvár) 189 Serb Orthodox Church (Baja) 238 Horsemen of the Great Plain 251
Catholic Church (Paks) 186 Serb Orthodox Church (Siklós) 188 Hortobágy Máta Stud Farm 256
Catholic Church (Zebegény) 145 Serb Orthodox Church (Szeged) Csontváry Kosztka, Tivadar 11, 190
Cave Church (Budapest) 73, 76 246 Csontváry Museum (Pécs) 190
Church of St James (Kőszeg) 168 Serbian Othodox Church (Ráckeve) Csorna 176
Church of St Mary Magdalene 133, 136 Culture 20–21
(Budapest) 68 Servite Church (Budapest) 96 Currency 300–301
Cistercian Church (Székesfehérvár) Small Reformed Church (Debrecen) Curtis, Tony 30, 104
157, 158 254 Curtiz, Michael (Manó Kertész Kaminer)
Cistercian Monastery Church Tabán Parish Church (Budapest) 79 30
(Szentgotthárd) 163 University Church (Budapest) 100 Customs information 296
Dominican Church of Our Lady of Ursuline Church (Sopron) 172 Cycling 291
Victory (Vác) 137 Village Church (Hollókő) 219 Margaret Island 112
Dominican Church (Sopron) 175 Víziváros Parish Church (Esztergom) Cymbal, Johannes 158, 208
Fő tér Church (Keszthely) 200 146 Czigler, Gyözö 111
fortified church (Kőröshegy 199 Votive Church (Szeged) 14, 246 Czóbel, Béla 142
Franciscan Church (Baja) 238 see also Abbeys; Cathedrals; Chapels;
Franciscan Church (Eger) 220 Monasteries and convents D
Franciscan Church (Kecskemét) 243
Franciscan Church (Margaret Island) Churning Woman (Munkácsy) 63 Dacia 39
112 Cifra Mill (Tata) 177 Damjanich, János, János Damjanich
Franciscan Church (Szolnok) 245 Cifra Palace (Kecskemét) 29, 240, 243
Great Catholic Church (Kecskemét) Cinemas, Budapest 120, 121 Museum (Szolnok) 245
131, 242 Circus 121 Damkó, József 65
Great Catholic Church (Nyíregyháza) Citadel (Budapest) 72, 76–7 Dance 288
258 Citadel (Visegrád) 128–9, 140–41, 145 Danube, River 13, 24
Great Church of St Stephen (Pápa) City Council Chamber (Budapest) 100
155 Clark, Adam 61, 88 Chain Bridge (Budapest) 46, 81, 88,
Great Reformed Church (Debrecen) Clark, William Tierney 88 294–5
254 Classical music 120, 121 Danube Museum (Esztergom) 147
Greek Catholic Church (Máriapócs) Climate 35–7 ferries and boats 305, 307
257 Clockwork (Székesfehérvár) 159 Margaret Island (Budapest) 112–13
Greek Catholic Church (Nyíregyháza) Clothes shops 119 Petőfisziget 238
258–9 Clubs 288, 289 Prímas Sziget island 146
Greek Orthodox Church (Miskolc) Coach travel 305 Danube Bend 11, 14, 128–9, 133, 145
230 Cold War 69 Danube and Chain Bridge Carnival
Greek Orthodox Church (Szerencs) Collection of Applied Folk Art (Budapest) 35
229 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget
Hollókő Church 131 (Kecskemét) 241 (Budapest) 113
Ignatius Benedictine Church (Győr) Collection of Roman Catholic Church Deák, Dénes, Deák Collection
179 (Székesfehérvár) 158
Inner City Parish Church (Budapest) Art (Sopron) 174 Deák, Ferenc 46, 88
97, 99 Comenius, Johann Amos 233 monument to (Budapest) 88
Inner City Parish Church (Pécs) 191, Communications 302–3 Deák-Ébner, Lajos 110
192 Communist era 48–51 Debit cards 300
Jesus’s Heart Church (Kőszeg) 169 Debrecen 13, 14, 130, 254–5
Lutheran Church (Kecskemét) 242 agricultural collectivization policy 244 airport 304, 305
Lutheran Church (Nyíregyháza) 258 architecture 29 festivals and events 35
Lutheran Church (Sopron) 172 collapse of communism 19, 22, 51 hotels 269
Mátyás Church (Budapest) 12, 28, Memento Park (Budapest) 76, 107, map 255
42–3, 56, 66–7 116–17 public transport 311
Minorite Church (Eger) 221 Souvenir Shop (Memento Park) 117 restaurants 284–5
Old Catholic Church (Kecskemét) Sovietization 48 Demetrius Tower (Szeged) 246
240 Communist Hungarian Republic of Democracy 51
Piarist Church and School Councils 47 Dentists 299
(Kecskemét) 240 Conservation 25 Department stores 118, 119
Corona Hotel (Nyíregyháza) 258 Deputy Council Chamber (Parliament)
84
The Coronation of Franz Joseph I on 8 Déri, Frigyes, Déri Museum and Square
June 1867 (Heinrich) 8–9 (Debrecen) 255

GENERAL INDEX  315

Dezső, Laczkó, Laczkó Dezső Museum Esterházy, Prince Paul 171 Flora 24–5
(Veszprém) 209 Esterházy family 110, 171, 189 see also National parks; Nature
Esterházy Mansion (Szigliget) 205 reserves; Parks and gardens
Dientzenhofer, Johann Ignaz 221 Esterházy Mansion (Tata) 177
Diósgyőr Castle (Miskolc) 231 Esterházy Palace (Fertőd) 11, 171 Flower Carnival (Debrecen) 35
Disabled travellers 297 Esztergom 14, 133, 134, 146–9 Fő Square (Szentendre) 142
Discos 288, 289 Fő tér (Keszthely) 200
Dobó, István 222 Basilica 28, 111, 134, 148–9 Fő ter (Sopron) 152
Dobó Bastion (Eger Castle) 222 hotels 266 Fő tér Church (Keszthely) 200
Doll and Waxwork Museum (Keszthely) map 147 Fodor, Gyula 114
restaurants 279–80 Foerk, Ernő 246
200 Ethnic minorities 195 Folk art 118–19
Dóm tér (Szeged) 246 Ethnic origins 20, 21 Folly, Róbert 209
Dombóvár 188–9 Etiquette 296–7 Fonyód 199
Domed Hall (Parliament) 84 Eugene of Savoy, Prince 59, 136
Dominican Church (Sopron) 175 European Union 22, 23, 51 hotels 267
Dör, potters of 176 Euzebiusz, Canon 100 Food and drink
Dorfmeister, István 163, 166, 167, 175, Events see Festivals and events
Eysenkölbl, Lorenz 175 festivals 36
194 Flavours of Hungary 272–3
Drechsler Palace (Budapest) 89 F hygiene 299
Dress local snacks 273
Fabricius House Museum and Paprika Museum (Kalocsa) 238, 239
at casinos 289 Apartments (Sopron) 173, 174 shopping 118, 119
etiquette 297 Szamos Marzipan Museum
traditional 218 Fadrusz, János 58 (Szentendre) 142
Drink-driving 308 Famous Hungarians 30–31 vegetarian food 270
Drugs 298 Fancy Stable (Parád) 217 What to Drink in Hungary 274–5
Dual Monarchy 46–7, 88, 108, 151 Fátyol Step Waterfall (Szilvásvárad) 224 Wines of Hungary 32–3
Dubniczay House (Veszprém Vár) 210 Fazola, Henrik 220–21 Zwack Pálinka Manufactory (Fruit
Duna-Dráva National Park 183, 187 Federation of Young Democrats see Brandy Distillery and Exhibition)
Duna-Ipoly National Park 133, 145 (Kecskemét) 241
Dunaföldvár 186 Fidesz see also Restaurants
Dürer, Albrecht 110 Fejes Valley 209 Football 31, 48, 289
Dvorzsák, Ede 111 Fekete, István 189 Forests 25
Fellner, Ferdinand 89, 247 Forints 301
E Fellner, Jakab 155, 208, 211 Former headquarters of Hungarian TV
Felső-Hámor 225 (Budapest) 83
Eagle Hill Nature Reserve 107, 115 Felsőtárkány 215 Formula 1 35, 289
Early Christian Mausoleum (Pécs) 190 Ferdinand I, Emperor 44 Förster, Ludwig 104
Easter 34 Ferenc I, Emperor 45, 46 Fossils 216
Economy 20, 22–3, 50, 51 Ferenc, Béla 44, 76 Fountains
Eger 11, 14, 213, 214, 220–23 Ferenc József, King 47 Mátyás Fountain (Budapest) 58
Ferenc Liszt Cultural Centre (Sopron) Zsolnay Fountain (Pécs) 184, 193
hotels 268 Fox, William 30
map 221 175 Franciscans 68, 69, 158, 174, 200
restaurants 283–4 Ferenc Liszt International Airport Francsek, Imre 77
siege of 220, 222 Franz Joseph I, Emperor 46–7, 101
Eger Castle 213, 214, 222–3 (Budapest) 304, 305 Royal Palace of Gödöllő 138
Eger Cathedral 220 Ferenc Móra Museum (Szeged) 246–7 Fuel 309
Egerszegi, Krisztina 31 Ferenc Rákóczi II, Prince of Transylvania Fülöpháza 239
Eichmann, Adolf 47 Funeral Crown (Hungarian National
Eiffel, Gustave 202 45, 68, 83, 98 Museum) 102
Electrical appliances 297 Feretőd 15 Further Afield (Budapest) 106–17
Elisabeth, Queen/Empress (“Sisi”) 72, Ferrabosco, Pietro 178 hotels 265
77, 102 Ferries 305 map 107
Royal Palace of Gödöllő 130, 138, 139 Fertő, Lake 24, 151, 170, 171 restaurants 279
statue (Esztergom) 146 Fertő-Hanság National Park 170 Füzér 232
Elizabeth Bridge (Budapest) 77 Fertőd 171
Embassies 299 Fertőrákos 170–71 G
Emergencies 299 Festetics, György 200, 203
Engels, Friedrich, statue 116 Festetics, Kristóf 203 Gaál, József 242
English language 21 Festetics family 200, 202–3 Gábor, Eva 30
Entertainment 288–9 Festetics Palace (Keszthely) 12, 15, Gábor, Zsa Zsa 30
Budapest 120–21 Gárdony 154
for children 121, 289 202–3 Gas appliances 297
cinema 120, 121, 288 Festival Theatre (Budapest) 115 Gate of Loyalty (Sopron) 173, 174, 175
dance 288 Festivals and events 34–7 Gazi Kasim, Pasha 191
jazz, traditional Hungarian and rock Feszl, Frigyes 98, 104 Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque (Pécs) 191,
music 120, 121, 288, 289 Feszler, Leó 90
nightlife 121, 288–9 Feszty Panorama (Ópusztaszer National 192
opera, classical and sacred music 120, Gellért, Bishop
121, 288, 289 Historical Memorial Park) 244
spectator sports 289 Fidesz 22, 51 burial site 99
tickets and listings 120, 121, 289, 303 Film stars 30–31 death of 71, 72, 76
Eötvös, Baron József 88 Finta, József 98, 99 patron saint of Budapest 72, 76, 91
Eravi 71, 78 Fire Lookout Tower (Veszprém Vár) statues of (Budapest) 72, 77, 91
Erdődy family 65 Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79
Erkel, Ferenc 30, 92, 245 211 Gellért Hill street-by-street 72–3
Erzsébet Look-Out Tower (Buda Hills) Firewatch Tower (Sporon) 130, 150, hotels 264
115 map 71
Erzsébetváros (Budapest) 104 151, 173, 175 restaurants 276
Esterházy, Count Ferenc 155 itineraries 10 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex
Esterházy, Count Nikolaus 171 Fireworks over the Danube (Budapest) (Budapest) 21, 70, 73, 74–5, 87
35
Fischer von Erlach, Johann Bernhard
111
Fisherman’s Bastion (Budapest) 12, 64
Fishing 292, 293

316  GENERAL INDEX

Gemenc Forest 183, 187 Győr Cathedral 43, 178 Holocaust 47, 104, 245, 259
Geological and Geophysical Institute of Győr Diocesan Treasury and Library Budapest Holocaust Memorial Centre
114
Hungary 87 178 Holocaust Memorial (Budapest) 104
Georgikon Farm Museum (Keszthely) Györgyi, Dénes 145, 201
Gypsies 195 Holy Trinity Column (Budapest) 64
200 Gyula 195, 245 Holy Trinity Monument (Kecskemét)
Gerbeaud, Emil 98
Gerbeaud Cukrászda (Budapest) 96, 98, festivals and events 37 240
restaurants 285 Holy Trinity Monument (Pécs) 192
277 Gyurcsány, Ferenc 22, 51 Holy Trinity Square (Budapest) 64
Germans 21, 195 Gyurkovich, Tibor 176 Holy Trinity Statue (Veszprém Vár)
Gerő, Ernő 48
Géza I, King 40, 65, 158 H 210
Ghetto, Jewish (Budapest) 104, 114 Honvéd Monument (Budapest) 61
Giergl, Kálman 98, 100, 105 Habsburg Empire 44–7 Hörger, Anton 64
Giessl, József 61 Citadel (Budapest) 76 Horse riding 292, 293
Gizella of Bavaria, Queen 34, 40, 208 see also Dual Monarchy Horses 24

Szent István and Gizella Monument Hajdúszoboszló 256 Bugac Stud Farm (Nagybugac) 236,
(Veszprém Vár) 210 hotels 269 239
Gizella Chapel (Veszprém) 208 restaurants 285 Csikós horse shows 239
Gizella Days (Veszprém) 34 Fancy Stable (Parád) 217
Glassware 160 Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa 236, festivals and events 35
Glatz, Oszkár 176 256 Horsemen of the Great Plain 251
Glücks (architect) 240 Hortobágyi Máta Stud Farm 256
Gödöllő 136–7 Hajós 238 Lipizzaner Horse-Breeding Exhibition
festivals 36 Hajós, Alfréd 31, 290 (Szilvásvárad) 224, 228
restaurants 280 Hamon, Kristóf 110 Silvásvárad Stud Farm 228
Royal Palace 36, 130, 135, 138–9 Handball 289 see also Csikósok (cowboys)
Gödöllő Artists’ Colony 137 Haranghy, Jenő 89 Horthy, István 76
Gödöllő Harp Festival 36 Harkány 188 Horthy, Admiral Miklós 47, 76, 104,
Golden Bull 40, 41 Hauszmann, Alajos 59, 60, 86, 105 138
Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum Haydn, Joseph, Esterházy Palace Hortobágy 256
(Budapest) 64 restaurants 285
Golden Stag (Hungarian National (Fertőd) 11, 171 Hortobágy Equestrian Days 35
Museum) 103 Health 299 Hortobágy National Park 131, 235, 237,
Golden Stag House (Budapest) 79 Hebenstreit, József 100 248–9, 256
Golden Unicorn Pharmaceutical Hefel, Melchior 171 itineraries 10, 13, 14
Museum (Kőszeg) 169 Hegedűs, Ármin 74, 98 landscape and wildlife 24
Goldmark, Karl 201 Hegyhátszentjakob 163 Hospital on the Rock 69
Golf 167, 293 Heimer-House (Székesfehérvár) 158 Hospitals 299
Gölle 189 Heinrich, Ede, The Coronation of Franz Hot springs see Thermal springs and
Göncz, Árpád 51 baths
Gothic architecture 28 Joseph I on 8 June 1867 8–9 Hotel Aranybika (Debrecen) 254, 269
Goths 39 Helikon Palace Museum (Keszthely) Hotels 262–9
Goulash 273 Around Budapest 266
Goulash Communism 50 202–3 Budapest 264–5
Goulash Festival (Szolnok) 36 Helmer, Hermann 89, 247 facilities 262
Goya, Francisco de 110 Henry II, Emperor 40 Great Plain 269
Grassalkovich, Count Antal 135, 136, Herend 161, 207 Northern Highlands 268–9
137, 138 Herman, Ottó 230 Northern Transdanubia 266–7
Great Capital Circus (Budapest) 121 Heroes’ Gate (Veszprém) 208, 211 rates and reservations 262, 263
Great Catholic Church (Nyíregyháza) Heroes’ Square (Budapest) 12, 107 Southern Transdanubia 267–8
258 wellness hotels 26
Great Plain 10, 13, 130, 234–59 street-by-street 108–9 Houdini, Harry 30
getting around 236 Herzog, Fülöp 110 House of Science and Technology
history 39 Hess, András 65 (Kecskemét) 243
horsemen of 19, 20, 251 Hetedhét Toy Museum House of Terror Museum (Budapest)
hotels 269 12, 105
landscape and wildlife 24 (Székesfehérvár) 158–9 Howard, Leslie 30
map 236–7 Hévíz 12, 13, 15, 185, 204 Hungarian Academy of Sciences 46,
restaurants 284–5 88
Great Reformed Church (Debrecen) 254 hotels 267 Hungarian Communist Party 49
Great Synagogue (Budapest) 104 restaurants 282 Hungarian Democratic Forum (MDF)
El Greco 110 Hévíz, Lake 204 51
Greek Catholic Church (Nyíregyháza) Hévíz-Balaton Airport 200, 304, 305 Hungarian Fighters in the Spanish
258–9 Hiking 291 International Brigades Memorial
Greek Orthodox Church and Museum Bakony Mountains 161 (Memento Park) 117
(Miskolc) 230 Bükk National Park 224 Hungarian Grand Prix (Budapest) 35
Gresham, Sir Thomas 88 Mátra Mountains 217 The Hungarian House (Budapest) 64
Gresham Palace (Budapest) 87, 88, 264 Zemplén Hills 232 Hungarian National Bank (Budapest)
Grossmann, József 155 Hikisch, Rezső 175 86, 87
Gulácsy, Lajos 31, 158 Hild, János 99 Hungarian National Gallery (Budapest)
Gyarmathy, Tihamér 158 Hild, József 88, 90, 99, 220 12, 59, 62–3
Gymnastics 289 Hild, Vencil 172 Hungarian National Museum
Gyöngyös 216–17 Hildebrandt, Franz Anton 68, 156 (Budapest) 29, 43, 102–3
restaurants 284 Hilton Budapest Hotel 65, 264 Hungarian Open-Air Museum
Győr 15, 151, 178–9 History 38–51 (Szentendre) 144
hotels 266 Hitler, Adolf 47 Hungarian People’s Republic 48, 51
map 179 Hódmezővásárhely 244–5 Hungarian Photography Museum
restaurants 280 Hofrichter, József 99 (Kecskemét) 240
Hölbling, János 58
Hölbling House (Budapest) 69
Hollókő 131, 195, 213, 214
Easter Festival 34
itineraries 13, 14
restaurants 284
street-by-street 218–19
Hollywood 30–31

GENERAL INDEX  317

Hungarian Revolution (1956) 48, 49 Jews (cont.) Klemperer, Otto 92
anniversary of 37 Jewish Quarter (Szeged) 247 Klotild, Archduchess 100
Ministry of Agriculture (Budapest) 86 Mihály Táncsics Street (Budapest) 65 Klotild Palaces (Budapest) 97, 100
Pécs 191 Kluge family 160
Hungarian Socialist Party (MSZP) 51 persecution of 47 Kmetty, János, Kmetty Museum
Hungarian State Opera (Budapest) 12, Raoul Wallenberg and 47, 79
see also Synagogues (Szentendre) 142
29, 92–3, 120, 121 Kolbe, St 76
Hungarian Uprising (1848) 46, 68, 76 John Paul II, Pope 255 Kölcsey, Ferenc 257
Jókai, Mór 207 Kolon, Lake 239
Lajos Kossuth and 82 Jósa, András 258 Koloszvári, Tamás 147
Hungarian Workers Party (HWP) 48, Joseph II, Emperor 45, 68, 172, 174 Komárom 177
Komócsin, Ilona 159
50–51 Lords’ Street (Budapest) 69 Korb, Flóris 98, 100, 105
Hungarian-Soviet Friendship Memorial Joseph, Archduke 46 Kőris-hegy 161
Jósvafő 228, 229 Körmend 163
(Memento Park) 116 József, Archduke Palatine 99 Körösfői, Kriesch Aladár 145
Huns 39, 245 József, Attila 82 Kőröshegy 13, 199
Hunting 292–3 József Katona Theatre (Kecskemét) Körössényi, Tamás 61
Hunyadi, János 41 Kós, Károly 145
240 Kosovo Polje, Battle of 143, 144
János Hunyadi Monument (Pécs) 192 Jungfer, Gyula 101 Kossuth, Lajos 46, 68, 82, 98
Hűvös Valley 115 Jurisics, Captain Miklós 168
Jurisics Castle (Kőszegs) 168 Great Reformed Church (Debrecen)
I 254
K Lajos Kossuth Memorial Museum
Ilonka 58, 61 (Monok) 232
Imre, Prince (St Emeric) 76, 90, 91 Kabar tribes 39 Sátoraljaújhely 233
Independence 46 Kádár, János 48, 50–51 stained-glass portrait 82, 88
Inner City Parish Church (Budapest) 97, Kallina, Mór 68 Kossuth Square (Budapest), street-by-
Kálly, Miklós 47 street map 82–3
99 Kálmán I, King 40 Kossuth Square (Nyíregyháza) 258
Inner City Parish Church (Pécs) 191, Kálmán, Imre 89 Kossuth Street (Eger) 220–21
Kalocsa 238–9 Kossuth Street (Keszthely) 201
192 Kamermayer, Károly 99 Kossuth tér (Kecskemét), street-by-
Innocent XI, Pope 65 Kapos Carnival Days 367 street 242–3
Insurance 299 Kapsovár 11, 13, 15, 185, 189 Kőszeg 15, 168–9
Internet 302, 303 hotels 266
Inventors 23, 31 festivals and events 37 map 169
Ipolytarnóc 216 Kapuvár 176 restaurants 281
Ippolito Gate (Eger Castle) 223 Karlowitz, Peace of 45 Koszta, József 245
Iron Age 39 Károly Lookout Tower (Sopron) 175 Kott, Otto 169
Istállóskő Cave (Szalajka Valley) 228 Károlyi, Count György 217 Kovács, Margit
István I, King (St István) 21, 40–41, 65 Károlyi, Count Mihály 47 Margit Kovács Ceramics Collection
Katona, József 240 (Szentendre) 144
and Bishop Gellért 76 Kauser, József 90 Margit Kovács Exhibition (Győr)
and Christianity 180 Kazinczy, Ferenc, Kazinczy Mausoleum 178–9
coronation (Esztergom) 132, 146, 148 Kozma, Lajos 99
Győr 178 (Sátoraljaújhely) 233 Kracker, Johann 220, 221
patron saint of Hungary 42 Kecskemét 13, 14, 131, 240–43 Krebs, Barbara 42
St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 91 Krúdy, Gyula 258
sarcophagus 156, 158 Around Kossuth tér street-by-street Kuchelmeister, Anton 230
statues 64, 76, 132 242–3 Kugler, Henrik 98
Szent István and Gizella Monument hotels 269 Kun, Béla 47
(Veszprém Vár) 210 map 241 Béla Kun Memorial (Memento Park)
Itineraries 10–15 restaurants 285 116
A Tour Around Lake Tisza 252–3 Kékestető 217
Lake Balaton Tour 198–9 Kellner, Jakab 220 L
A Tour Around the Bakony 160–61 Kemény, John 31
Two Days in Budapest 12 Kertész, André 240 Lajos II, King 187
Two Days on Lake Balaton 12 Kertész, Imre 30, 51 Lajta, Béla 105, 114
Two Weeks in Hungary 11, 14–15 Keszthely 183, 196–7, 200–201 Lakes 24
A Week in Hungary 10, 13 Festetics Palace 202–3
Izsák 239 hotels 267 see also by name
Izsó, Miklós 88 itineraries 12, 13, 15 Landscape 24–5
map 201 Language 21
J restaurants 282
Kinizsi, Pál 206 phrase book 327–8
Jacobites, Hungarian 69 Király utca (Pécs) 191, 193 László I, King 40
Ják 109, 166 Királyrét 145 László V, King 41
Jakovali Hassan Mosque (Pécs) 191 Kis-Balaton 15, 183, 198 László, St 178
Jankovits, Gyula 77 Kisfaludy, Sándor 205 Lázár, Prince 143
Jankovits, Miklós 230 Kisfaludy Lookout Tower (Badacsony Leatherware 250
János Hill 115 Mountain) 205 Lechner, Ödön 87
János Szapolyai, King 44 Kisköre 252
Jánszky, Béla 145 Kiskunfélegyháza 235, 244 Drechsler Palace (Budapest) 89
Jász people 250 restaurants 285 Jewish Cemetery (Budapest) 114
Jászberény 250 Kiskunság National Park 13, 14, 24, Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest)
Jazz 120, 121, 288, 289 239 101
Jazz Days (Debrecen) 35 Kiss, György 85, 192 Thonet House (Budapest) 96
Jesuits 66, 110, 146, 158, 179 Kiss, István 112 Town Hall (Szeged) 246
Jesus’s Heart Church (Kőszeg) 169 Kiss, Lenke 208 Lehár, Ferenc 89
Jews 21, 195 Kiss, Pál, Pál Kiss Museum (Tiszafüred) Lehel 250
250 Lehel Horn 250
Central Pest 95 Kittenberger, Kálmán 209
Gábor Sztéhló and 68
Holocaust Memorial (Budapest) 104
Jewish Cemetery (Budapest) 107,
114
Jewish Quarter (Budapest) 12, 104

318  GENERAL INDEX

Lendvay, Márton 68 Magyar language 21 Martinovics, Ignác 69
Lenin, Vladimir, statue 117 Magyars 19, 20, 195 Márton, Éva 30
Leopold I, Emperor 45 Márton, Jáki Nagy 166
Leopold of Austria, St 18 1,000-year anniversary 81 Marton, László 82, 98
Lesenyei, Márta 73 Great Plain 235, 244, 251 Martonvásár 154
Liberation Monument (Budapest) 54, history 39, 40 Martyrs of Arad 246
Mahler, Gustav 92 Marx, Karl, statue 116
72, 76 Makovecz, Imre 186, 233 Marzio, Galeotto 61
Liberty Square (Budapest) 86 Malls, shopping 118, 119 Master MS, The Visitation 62
Libraries Málnai, Béla 89 Mátra Mountains 25, 213, 214, 216, 217
Mann, Thomas 68 Mátrafüred 217
Archbishop’s Palace (Kalocsa) 238–9 Mannheimer, Gusztáv 105 Mátraháza 217
Bishop’s Palace (Pécs) 190 Maps Mátraszentistván 217
Győr Diocesan Treasury and Library Around Budapest 134–5 Mátyás I, King (Mátyás Corvinus) 29, 41,
178 Budapest: Around Heroes’ Square
Helikon Library (Festetics Palace) street-by-street 108–9 57
203 Budapest: Around Parliament 81 bas-relief of 65
Lyceum (Eger) 220 Budapest: Around Váci Street street- and the Hungarian Renaissance
Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library by-street 96–7 42–3
(Budapest) 101 Budapest: Castle District 59 Mátyás Fountain (Budapest) 58,
Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest) Budapest: Central Pest 95 60–61
101 Budapest: Further Afield 107 National Széchényi Library 60
National Széchényi Library Budapest: Gellért Hill street-by-street Royal Palace (Budapest) 58, 59
(Budapest) 42, 43, 60 72–3 Royal Palace (Visegrád) 145
Ottó Herman Museum (Miskolc) Budapest: Gellért Hill and Tabán 71 Storno House (Sopron) 173, 174
230 Budapest: Kossuth Square street-by- Mátyás Church (Budapest) 12, 28, 42–3,
Pannonhalma Abbey 164–5, 180 street 82–3 56, 66–7
Reguly Antal Library (Zirc) 155 Budapest: Royal Palace street-by- concerts 120, 121
Ligeti, Miklós, Statue of Anonymous street 58–9 Mátyás Fountain (Budapest) 58, 60–61
109 Budapest: Street Finder 122–7 Maulbertsch, Franz Anton 155, 156,
Lillafüred 13, 14, 213 Budapest: Tabán 78 159, 162
hotels 268 Budapest at a Glance 54–5 Győr Cathedral 178
restaurants 284 Budapest and Environs 17 Mayer, Ede 78
Lion Gate (Royal Palace, Budapest) 58 Debrecen 255 Mayerhoffer, András 96, 100, 142, 240
Lipizzaner horses 217, 224, 228 Eger 221 Royal Palace of Gödöllő 138
Listings magazines 120, 289, 303 Esztergom 147 Medgyaszay, István 208, 209
Liszt, Ferenc 30, 92, 99, 175 Europe 16 Medgyessy, Ferenc 255
Ferenc Liszt Cultural Centre (Sopron) Great Plain 236–7 Media 303
175 Győr 179 Medical treatment 299
Kalocsa Cathedral 238 Hollókő street-by-street 218–19 Meining, Artur 101
statue (Pécs) 190 Hungary at a glance 130–31 Melocco, Miklós 61
Liszt Academy of Music (Budapest) 12, itineraries 10–11 Memento Park (Budapest) 76, 107,
105, 120, 121 Kecskemét 241 116–17
Literature 30 Kecskemét: Around Kossuth tér Menus 271
Lord’s Coffin of Garamszentbenedek street-by-street 242–3 Merse, Pál Szinyei, Picnic in May 63
(Christian Museum, Esztergom) Keszthely 201 Metro (Budapest) 108, 310
146 Kőszeg 169 Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library
Lords’ Street (Budapest) 69 Miskolc 231 (Budapest) 101
Lorre, Peter 30 Northern Highlands 214–15 Michelangelo 243
Lotz, Károly Northern Transdanubia 152–3 Migazzi (artist) 146
Baroque Abbey Church (Tihany Nyíregyháza 259 Mihály Táncsics Street (Budapest) 65
Peninsula) 206 Pécs 191 Mihály Vörösmarty Square (Budapest)
Hungarian State Opera (Budapest) Pécs: Around Széchenyi tér street-by- 96, 98
92, 93 street 192–3 Miklós Jurisics Suare (Kőszeg) 168
Mátyás Church (Budapest) 67 Putting Hungary on the Map 16–17 Miklós Ybl Square (Budapest) 93
Museum of Ethnography (Budapest) Road Map of Hungary see back Mikulás 37
86 endpaper Mildorfer, Johann Ignaz 160
New York Palace (Budapest) 105 Sopron Belváros street-by-street Millennium Celebrations (1896) 108,
Parliament (Budapest) 85 172–3 111, 244
St Peter’s Cathedral (Pécs) 190 Southern Transdanubia 184–5 Millennium Monument (Budapest) 108
St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 91 Szeged 247 Miller, Henry Ernest 202
statue of 93 Székesfehévar street-by-street 156–7 Minaret (Eger) 221
Woman Bathing 63 Szentendre 143 Mindszenty, Cardinal József 48
Louis I (the Great), King 41, 58, 67, 159 A Tour Around the Bakony 160–61 tomb 148
Louis II, King 44 Veszprém 209 Ministry of Agriculture (Budapest) 83,
Lower Esztergom 147 Veszprém Vár street-by-street 210–11 86
Lugosi, Béla 30 Wines of Hungary 32–3 Minorite Church (Eger) 221
Luischen (Stróbl) 63 Margaret Island (Budapest) 106, 112– Mirror Room (Festetics Palace) 203
Luther, Martin 245 13 Miskei, Ilona 200
Lutheran Church (Nyíregyháza) 258 Margit, Princess 112, 113 Miskolc 230–31
Lux, Kálman 76 Maria Column (Győr) 179 hotels 268
Lyceum (Eger) 213, 220 Maria Theresa, Empress 45, 138 map 231
coronation cloak 220 Opera Festival 35, 230, 288
M Royal Palace (Budapest) 58, 59 public transport 311
and Serbs 144 restaurants 284
Madonna of Bártfa (Hungarian National Vác 137 Miskolctapolca 213, 229
Gallery) 62 Máriapócs 257 Mobile phones 302, 303
Markets, Budapest 118, 119 MODEM Centre of Modern and
Madonna of Toporc (Hungarian Márkus, Géza 240 Contemporary Art (Debrecen) 254
National Gallery) 62

Magazines 303
listings 120, 289, 303

GENERAL INDEX  319

Mohács 15, 183, 186–7 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
festivals and events 37 Collection of Applied Folk Art István Szőnyi Memorial Museum
(Kecskemét) 241 (Zebegény) 145
Mohács, Battle of 44, 183, 184, 186, 187 Collection of Roman Catholic Church János Damjanich Museum (Szolnok)
Moholy-Nagy, László 240 Art (Sopron) 174 245
Moiret, Ödön 159 Csontváry Museum (Pécs) 190 Jász Museum (Jászberény) 250
Molnár, Ferenc 30 Czóbel Museum (Szentendre) 142 József Rippl-Rónai Memorial Museum
Molnár, Pál 99 Danube Museum (Esztergom) 147 (Kaposvár) 189
Monasteries and convents Deák Collection (Székesfehérvár) 158 Jurisics Museum (Kőszeg) 168
Déri Museum (Debrecen) 255 Kmetty Museum (Szentendre) 142
Benedictine Monastey (Somogyvár) Diocesan Museum (Szombathely) 166 Laczkó Dezső Museum (Veszprém)
199 Doll Museum (Hollókő) 218 209
Carmelite Monastery (Győr) 179 Doll and Waxwork Museum Lajos Kossuth Memorial Museum
Carmelite Monastery (Székesfehérvár) (Keszthely) 200 (Monok) 232
156 Dombóvár Region Historical Museum Lipizzaner Horse-Breeding Exhibition
Cistercian Monastery (Székesfehérvár) 189 (Silvásvárad) 224, 228
157, 158 Ecclesiastical Museum and Treasury Living Museum of Arts and Crafts
Dominican Priory (Sopron) 175 (Szeged) 246 (Buzsák) 199
Franciscan Church and Monastery Ethnographic Museum (Ócsa) 136 Ludwig Museum of Contemporary
(Eger) 220 Ethnographic Museum (Ópusztaszer Art (Budapest) 115
Sopron Catholic Convent 174 National Historical Memorial Park) Lyceum (Eger) 213, 220
see also Abbeys 244 Margit Kovács Ceramics Collection
Money 300–301 Fabricius House Museum and (Szentendre) 144
Mongols 40–41, 43, 113, 231 Apartments (Sopron) 173, 174 Margit Kovács Exhibition (Győr)
Monok 232 Fafaragó Gallery (Dunaföldvár) 186 178–9
Morbitzer, Nándor 244 Ferenc Kazinczy Museum Mátra Museum and Microarium
Morris, William 137 (Sátoraljaújhely) 233 (Gyöngyös) 216–17
Moskovszky, Éva 159 Ferenc Móra Museum (Szeged) Mátyás Museum (Visegrád) 145
Mosonmagyaróvár 176–7 246–7 MODEM Centre of Modern and
hotels 266 Ferenc Nádasdy Museum (Sárvár) Contemporary Art (Debrecen) 254
Mosques 167 Municipal Museum of Arts (Győr) 179
Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque (Pécs) 191, Finno-Ugric Ethnographical Museum Museum of Agriculture (Budapest)
192 (Zalaegerszeg) 162 109, 111
Jakovali Hassan Mosque (Pécs) 191 Georgikon Farm Museum (Keszthely) Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest)
Malkoks Bei Mosque (Siklós) 188 200 87, 101
Mosquitoes 299 German Minorities Museum (Tata) Museum of Ecclesiastical Art
Motor racing 35, 289 177 (Budapest) 66
Motorways 308 Göcseji Village Museum Museum of Ethnography (Budapest)
Mount Badacsony 183 (Zalaegerszeg) 162 82, 86
Mount Istállóskő 228 Gödöllő Town Museum 137 Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest) 108,
Mountains 25 Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum 110
Műcsarnok Palace of Art (Budapest) (Budapest) 64 Museum of Hungarian Naïve Art
108, 110 Golden Unicorn Pharmaceutical (Kecskemét) 240
Muhi, Battle of 41 Museum (Kőszeg) 169 Museum of the Hungarian Petroleum
Munkácsy, Mihály 176, 247, 255 Gorsium Open-Air Museum (Tác) Industry (Zalaegerszeg) 162
Churning Woman 63 154–5 Museum of Medicinal and
Museums and galleries Greco-Roman Statue Museum (Tata) Pharmaceutical History (Kecskemét)
opening hours 296 177 240
Africa Museum and Safari Park Greek Orthodox Church and Museum of Military History
(Balatonederics) 204 Museum (Miskolc) 230 (Budapest) 69, 121
Alföld Gallery (Hódmezővásárhely) Győr Diocesan Treasury and Library Museum of Mining (Sopron) 172, 174
245 178 Museum of Musical History
András Jósa Museum (Nyíregyháza) Hanság Museum (Mosonmagyaróvár) (Budapest) 65
258 176 Museum of Serbian Orthodox
Aquincum museum 114 Helikon Palace Museum (Keszthely) Ecclesiastical Art (Szentendre) 142–3
Archaeological Museum (Pécs) 191, 202–3 Nagyatád Statue Park 194
192 Herdsmen’s Museum (Nagybugac) Open-Air Ethnographical Museum
Art Gallery (Eger Castle) 222 239 (Székesfehérvár) 159
Bakony Natural History Museum Hetedhét Toy Museum Open-Air Ethnography Museum
(Zirc) 155, 161 (Székesfehérvár) 158–9 (Nagyvázsony) 206
Bakony Regional Folk Museum House of Folk Arts (Kalocsa) 239 Open-Air Forestry Museum
(Veszprém) 209 House of Terror Museum (Budapest) (Szilvásvárad) 228
Balaton Museum (Keszthely) 201 12, 105 Open-Air Village Museum
Bálint Balassa Museum (Esztergom) Hungarian National Gallery (Sóstógyógyfürdő) 259
147 (Budapest) 12, 59, 62–3 Ottó Herman Museum (Miskolc) 230
Barcsay Collection (Szentendre) 144 Hungarian National Museum Paks Gallery 186
Beethoven Memorial Museum (Budapest) 29, 43, 102–3 Pál Kinizsi Castle Museum
(Martonvásár) 154 Hungarian Open-Air Museum (Nagyvázsony) 206
Black Eagle Pharmacy Museum (Szentendre) 144 Pál Kiss Museum (Tiszafüred) 250
(Székesfehérvár) 157, 158 Hungarian Photography Museum Palace of Arts (MÜPA) (Budapest) 115
Carriage Museum (Festetics Palace) (Kecskemét) 240 Palóc Ethnographical Museum
202 Imre Ámos/Margit Anna Museum (Mátrafüred) 217
Castle Museum (Budapest History (Szentendre) 143 Palóc Museum (Balassagyarmat) 216
Museum) 60 Imre Patkó Collection (Győr) 179 Palóc Village Museum (Hollókő) 218
Castle Museum (Esztergom) 146 István Báthory Museum (Nyírbátor) Paprika Museum (Kalocsa) 238, 239
Castle Museum (Kőszeg) 168 257 Parád Coach Museum 217
Castle Museum (Siklós) 188 István Bocskai Museum Pharmacy Museum (Győr) 179
Castle Museum (Szeged) 247 (Hajdúszoboszló) 256 Pharmacy Museum (Sopron) 175
Castle Museum (Szigetvár) 194
Christian Museum (Esztergom) 146–7

320  GENERAL INDEX

Museums and galleries (cont.) National parks (cont.) Operetta 89
Porcelanium (Herend) 207 Bükk National Park 13, 14, 213, 215, Opposition Party 46
Portrait Gallery (Festetics Palace) 203 224–5 Ópusztaszer 20
Post Museum (Hollókő) 219 Duna-Dráva National Park 183, 187 Orbán, Viktor 22
Postal and Carriage Museum Duna-Ipoly National Park 133, 145 Öreg, Lake 177
(Balatonszemes) 199 Fertő-Hanság National Park 170 Őriszentpéter 163
Rábaközi Museum (Kapuvár) 176 Hortobágy National Park 24, 131, 235, Őrség Region 11, 15, 151, 163
Rákóczi Museum (Sárospatak) 233 237, 256 Ostoic, Vasili 143
Reguly Antal Museum (Zirc) 155 Kiskunság National Park 13, 14, 24, Oszadszki, Ede Magyar 246
Rippl-Rónai Museum (Kaposvár) 189 239 Otto I, King 40
St Bertolan Treasury Museum Őrseg National Park 163 Ottocar of Bohemia 176
(Gyöngyös) 216, 217 Slovak Karst National Park 228 Ottoman Empire see Turks
St István Király Museum Outdoor activities 290–93
(Székesfehérvár) 158 National Széchényi Library (Budapest) Óváros tér (Veszprém) 208, 211
Savaria Museum (Szombathely) 166 42, 43, 60
Semmelweis Museum of Medical P
History (Budapest) 79 National Theatre (Miskolc) 230
Shepherds’ Museum (Hortobágy) 256 National Theatre (Szeged) 247 Padányi-Bíró, Bishop Márton 210
Storno House & Exhibition of Nationalism 20, 46 Paks 186
Regional History (Sopron) 173, 174 NATO 51 Pál, Fekete 246
Sugar Museum (Szerencs) 229 Nature reserves Palace of Arts (MÜPA) (Budapest) 115,
Szalafő Open-Air Ethnographical
Museum 163 Eagle Hill Nature Reserve 107, 115 120, 121
Szamos Marzipan Museum Ipolytarnóc Fossils Nature Protected Palaces
(Szentendre) 142 Area 216
Széchenyi Mansion (Nagycenk) 153, Lake Tisza Nature Reserve 252 Archbishop’s Palace (Kalocsa) 238–9
170 Ócsa Nature Reserve 136 Archbishop’s Palace (Veszprém) 208,
Széchenyi Museum Railway Nazis 47, 104, 105 211
(Nagycenk) 170 Négyes 252 Bishop’s Palace (Eger) 213, 220, 222
Szenna Ethnographic Museum 194 Nemes-Jeles, András 31 Bishop’s Palace (Győr) 178
Szentendre Gallery 142 Neo-Classical architecture 29 Bishop’s Palace (Nyíregyháza) 258–9
Szórakaténusz Toy Museum and Nepauer, Mátyás 64, 65, 79, 110 Bishop’s Palace (Pécs) 190
Workshop (Kecskemét) 241 Neumann, John von 31 Bishop’s Palace (Székesfehérvár) 29,
Telephone Museum (Budapest) 69 New Theatre (Budapest) 105 157
Theatre Museum (Miskolc) 230 New York Palace (Budapest) 105 Bishop’s Palace (Szombathely) 166
Tokaj Museum 232 Newspapers 303 Bishop’s Palace (Vác) 137
Türr István Museum (Baja) 238 Nicopolis, Battle of 41 Cifra Palace (Kecskemét) 29, 240, 243
Vaszary Gallery (Kaposvár) 189 Nightlife 288–9 Csorna Palace 176
Wine Museum (Villány) 187 Budapest 121 Drechsler Palace (Budapest) 89
Zempléni Museum (Szerencs) 229 Nógrád 145 Erdődy Palace (Budapest) 65
Zettl-Langer Collection (Sopron) 175 Nomadic horsemen 235, 251 Esterházy Palace (Fertőd) 11, 171
Zsolnay Museum (Pécs) 190, 192 Northern Highlands 13, 130, 212–33 Esterházy Palace (Győr) 179
Zwack Pálinka Manufactory (Fruit getting around 215 Esterházy Palace (Pápa) 155
Brandy Distillery and Exhibition) hotels 268–9 Festetics Palace (Keszthely) 12, 15,
(Kecskemét) 241 landscape and wildlife 25 202–3
map 214–15 Gresham Palace (Budapest) 87, 88,
Music restaurants 283–4 264
famous Hungarians 30 Northern Transdanubia 130, 150–81 Klotild Palaces (Budapest) 97, 100
festivals 34, 35, 36, 288, 289 getting around 153 New York Palace (Budapest) 105
gypsy 195 hotels 266–7 Péterffy Palace (Budapest) 96
jazz, traditional Hungarian and rock map 152–3 Reök Palace (Szeged) 246
120, 121, 288, 289 restaurants 280–81 Royal Palace (Budapest) 12, 54,
opera, classical and sacred 120, 121, Nyers, Reszo 50 58–63
288, 289 Nyírbátor 257 Royal Palace (Esztergom) 146
shopping 119 hotels 269 Royal Palace (Visegrád) 145
restaurants 285 Royal Palace of Gödöllo 36, 130,
Mustafa, Sokoli 77 Nyíregyháza 13, 14, 258–9 138–9
hotels 269 Sándor Palace (Budapest) 61
N map 259 Széchenyi Palace (Sopron) 175
restaurants 285 Vice-Provost’s Palace (Eger) 220
Nádasdy family 166–7 Wenckheim Palace (Budapest) 101
Nádasdy, Tamás 167 O Palaeolithic era 39
Nagy, Endre 204 Palatinus Strand (Margaret Island) 112
Nagy, Imre 48, 49, 189 Obergruber, Keresztély 79 Pálháza 232
Observation Terraces (Gellért Hill) 73 Pálinka (fruit brandy) 240, 241, 274
monument to (Budapest) 83 Óbuda 39 Palkó, Tibor 31
Nagy, Virgil 258 Ócsa 134, 136 Palm House (Festetics Palace) 202
Nagy Hideg Hegy peak 145 Oil 151, 162, 167 Palóc people
Nagyatád 194 Old Catholic Church (Kecskemét) 240 Balassagyarmat 216
Nagybörzsöny 145 Old Synagogue (Sopron) 174 Hollókő 131, 195, 213, 214, 218–19
Nagybugac 239 Old Town Hall (Buda) 64 Palóc Ethnographical Museum
Nagycenk 153, 170 Old Upper House Hall (Parliament) 85 (Mátrafüred) 217
Nagyirtás 145 Open-Air Ethnographical Museum Palóc Museum (Balassagyarmat) 216
Nagykanizsa 162 Palóc Village Museum (Hollókő) 218
Nagyvázsony 206 (Székesfehérvár) 159 Parád Coach Museum 217
Napoleon I, Emperor 46 Opening hours 296 Pan European Monument (Fertőrákos)
National Archive (Budapest) 68 171
National Dance Theatre (Budapest) 115 restaurants 270, 296 Pannonhalma Abbey 15, 76, 151, 164–
National Forest Plantation Programme shops 118, 296 5, 180–81
Opera 288 Pannonia 39, 114
25 Budapest 120, 121 Pannonius, János 190
National parks festivals 35
Hungarian State Opera (Budapest)
Aggteleki National Park 14, 228–9 12, 29, 92–3, 120, 121

GENERAL INDEX  321

Pápa 155, 160 Petőfi, Sándor 30, 34, 46, 162, 208 Rail travel (cont.)
Papp, László 31 Petőfi Theatre (Veszprém) 208 Gyöngyös to Mátrafüred narrow-
Paracelsus 232 Petőfisziget 238 gauge railway 217
Parád 217 Pharmacies 299 The Hév 310
Parade Square (Budapest) 61 Pharmacy (Sopron) 173 Kismaros to Királyrét narrow-gauge
Parádfürdő 213, 217 Pharmacy Museum (Sopron) 175 railway 145
Philostratus Codex 42 Nagybörzsöny to Nagyirtás narrow-
hotels 268 Phrase book 327–8 gauge railway 145
restaurants 284 Piac Street (Debrecen) 254 Skansen Nostalgia Train (Hungarian
Parádsasvár, hotels 268 Piarist Church and School (Kecskemét) Open-Air Museum) 144
Paritition 44 Szalajka narrow-gauge railway 224,
Párizsi Udvar (Budapest) 97 240 228
Parking 309 Picasso, Pablo 110 Széchenyi Museum Railway
Parks and gardens Pickpockets 298 (Nagycenk) 170
Arboretum (Pannonhalma Abbey) Picnic in May (Merse) 63 travelling around Hungary 306, 307
180 Pintér, Béla 65
Arboretum (Zirc) 155 Placing the Cornerstone (Barabás) 102 Rainfall 36
English Gardens (Festetics Palace) Plague 64, 146, 240 Rákóczi, Prince Ferenc 45, 68, 83, 98
202 Polgár, Judit 31 Rákóczi, Prince György I 232
Festetics Palace 202 Polgár, Zsuzsa 31 Rákóczi, Zsigmond 229
Forest Park (Nagyatád) 194 Police 298, 299 Rákóczi Cellars (Tokaj) 232
Garden of Ruins (Székesfehérvár) 157, Politics 22, 50–51 Rákóczi family 229, 233
158 Pollack, Mihály 61, 102, 233 Rákosi, Mátyás 48
Gyula park 245 Polnay, Konrád 114 Raphael 110
Iseum Ruin Garden (Szombathely) Poor Clares 68 Rava, Giovanni 178
166 Popovic, Jovan 246 Reformation 245
Japanese Garden (Margaret Island) Pörböly 187 Reindl, Márton 221
106, 113 Porcelain Religion 21
Kámoni Arboretum (Szombathely) Rembrandt 175
166 Ajka 160 Renaissance 41
Memento Park (Budapest) 76, 107, Herend 161, 207
116–17 shopping 119 architecture 29
Memorial Park (Mohács) 186 Poroszló 252 Mátyás Corvinus and the Hungarian
Nagyatád Statue Park 194 Porta Speciosa (Pannonhalma Abbey) Renaissance 42–3
National Botanical Garden (Vácrátót) 180 Renaissance Carnival Gyula 37
137 Pósa, Endre 208 Reök, István, Reök Palace (Szeged) 246
Ópusztaszer National Historical Pósa House (Veszprém) 208 Republic of Hungary 51
Memorial Park 244 Post Office Savings Bank (Budapest) 28, Rerrich, Béla 246
Royal Palace of Gödöllő 138 87 Reservations
Szigeterdő (Dombóvár) 189 Postal services 303 hotels 262
Turkish-Hungarian Friendship Park Potter’s House (Hollókő) 219 restaurants 271
(Szigetvár) 194 Prati, Fortunato de 58 Reservoir (Gellért Hill) 73
Városliget (Budapest) 12, 107, 108, Praxiteles 69 Restaurants 270–85
110–11 Premonstratensian Order 136, 176 Around Budapest 279–80
see also Aqua parks; National parks Prices Budapest 276–9
Parliament (Budapest) 11, 52–3, 55, 80, accommodation 262 children in 271
84–5 restaurants 271 Flavours of Hungary 272–3
street-by-street map 82 Prímas Sziget island 146 Great Plain 284–5
Parliament Street (Budapest) 68 Primates of All Hungary 149 menus 271
Pártos, Gyula 89, 96, 101 Private accommodation 263 Northern Highlands 283–4
Passports 296 Prostitution 298–9 Northern Transdanubia 280–81
Pásztor, János 83 Protestant Cemetery (Szatmárcseke) opening hours 270, 296
Patkós Csárda 253 257 prices, tipping and payment 271
Pátzay, Pál 176, 192 Protestants, persecution of 45 reservations 271
Paur, György 99 Public holidays 37 Southern Transdanubia 282–3
Péchy, Mihály 254, 255 Pubs 288, 289 types of 270
Pécs 182, 183, 190–93 Pünkösdfürdő 39 vegetarian food 270
Around Széchenyi tér street-by-street Puskás, Ferenc 30, 31 What to Drink in Hungary 274–5
192–3 Puskás, Tividar 31 see also Food and drink
festivals and events 34, 36 Puszta see Great Plain Revolution (1918) 47
history 41 Puszta Fiver 236, 239, 251 Revolution (1956) 48, 49
hotels 267 Hospital on the Rock (Budapest) 69
itineraries 10, 11, 13, 14 Q Museum of Military History
map 191 (Budapest) 69
public transport 311 Queen Elizabeth Monument Revolution Day 34
restaurants 282 (Budapest) 72, 77 Rieder, Jakob 157
Pécs Days 36 Rippl-Rónai, József 11, 13, 15, 31, 189
Pécs Spring Festival 34 Quittner, Zsigmond 87, 88 Deák Collection (Székesfehérvár) 158
Pecz, Samu 68 Ferec Móra Museum (Szeged) 247
Pensions 263 R József Rippl-Rónai Memorial Museum
Perényi, Peter 232 (Kaposvár) 189
Personal safety 298–9 Ráckeve 133, 136 Woman in White-Spotted Dress 189
Personal security 298 restaurants 280 Rivers 24
Pest see also by name
Around Parliament 80–93 Radio 303 Road travel
Central Pest 94–105 Radisson Blu Béke Hotel (Budapest) 89, arriving in Hungary 305
Secession architecture 87 travelling around Hungary 308–9
Pest County Hall (Budapest) 99 264 Rock climbing 225
Péterffy, János 96 Rail travel Rock music 120, 121
Roma 195
arriving in Hungary 304–5
Bárányfok to Pörböly narrow-gauge
railway 187
Children’s Railway (Buda Hills) 115,
121, 307
funicular (Budapest) 294–5

322  GENERAL INDEX

Roman, Walter 49 Sarud 252 Sisters of Charity Chapel and Hospital
Roman Catholicism 21, 48 Sárvár 166–7 (Väc) 137
Romanesque architecture 28
Romania 246 hotels 266 Skiing 293
Romanians 195 Sástó, Lake 217 Slavs 39
Romano, Gian Cristoforo 42 Sátoraljaújhely 213, 233 Slovakia 177
Romans 39 Slovaks 21
hotels 269 Small Reformed Church (Debrecen)
Aquincum 28, 39, 107, 114 Saxons 160
architecture 28 Schaller, Stephan 175 254
Greco-Roman Statue Museum (Tata) Schickendanz, Albert 110 Smoking 296–7
177 Schmidl family 114 Snacks 273
Lake Balaton 198 Schmidt, Friedrich 190 Socialist Realism 116
Mosonmagyaróvár 176 Schulek, Frigyes 115, 166, 246 Society 20–21
Pécs 190, 191 Solti, Sir Georg 30
Sopron 174, 175 Mátyás Church (Budapest) 66, 67 Somogyi, Árpád 86
Szombathely 166 Scythians 245 Somogyvár 199
Tabán 78 Sebestyén, Artúr 74 Sopron 130, 150, 151, 152, 172–5
Tác 154–5 Secession
Róna, József 59 Belváros street-by-street 172–3
Rooms, private 263 architecture 28, 29, 87 Festival Weeks 35, 171
Rostalló 232 art 19 Germans 195
Róth, Miksa 87, 88, 98, 189 Catholic Church (Zebegény) 145 history 39
Rower Lake (Nagyatád) 194 Cifra Palace (Kecskemét) 240 hotels 266–7
Rowing 289 Corona Hotel (Nyíregyháza) 258 itineraries 10, 11, 15
Royal Insignia (Parliament) 85 former headquarters of Hungarian TV restaurants 281
Royal Palace (Budapest) 12, 54 (Budapest) 83 Sóstógyógyfürdő 259
Castle Museum (Budapest History Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex Southern Transdanubia 130, 182–211
Museum) 60 (Budapest) 74–5 getting around 185
Hungarian National Gallery 62–3 Gresham Palace (Budapest) 87, 88 hotels 267–8
National Széchényi Library 60 Hódmezővásárhely synagogue 245 map 184–5
street-by-street 58–9 Hotel Aranybika (Debrecen) 254 restaurants 282–3
Royal Palace (Esztergom) 146 József Rippl-Rónai 189 Souvenir Shop (Memento Park) 117
Royal Palace of Gödöllo 36, 130, 138–9 Király Utca (Pécs) 191 Sovának, István 87
Róza Szegedy House (near Badacsony) Liszt Academy of Music (Budapest) 105 Soviet Union
205 New Synagogue (Szeged) 237 Hungarian Revolution (1956) 48, 49
Rubik, Ernő 31 New Theatre (Budapest) 105 Liberation Monument (Budapest) 76
Rubik’s Cube 23, 31 Petőfi Theatre (Veszprém) 208 Memento Park (Budapest) 76, 107,
Rudas Baths (Budapest) 73, 77, 78 Reök Palace (Szeged) 246 116–17
Rudnay, Gyula 176, 245 Szolnok synagogue 245 relationship with 50–51
Rúfusz, Ferenc 31 Town Hall (Kapsovár) 185, 189 siege of Budapest 86
Rumpelmayer, Viktor 202 Town Hall (Kecskemét) 242 Sovietization 48
Ruskin, John 137 Town Hall (Kiskunfélegyháza) 235, Sparkling wines 33, 274
Ruthenians 195 244 Spas see Thermal springs and baths
Turkish Bank (Budapest) 98 Speed cameras 298, 308
S Zsolnay Fountain (Pécs) 193 Sport 290–93
Security 298–9 famous Hungarians 31
Sacred music 120, 121 Séd, River 209 spectator 289
Safety 298–9 Self-catering 263 Spring 34
Sagredo, Giorgio di see Gellért, Bishop Semmelweis, Ignáz, Semmelweis Stalin, Joseph, statue of 49, 103
Ságvari, Endre 86 Museum of Medical History Stanisits, Bozó 75
Sailing 291 (Budapest) 79 Statue of Anonymous (Ligeti) 109
Sailing Day (Balatonfüred) 34 Senyei, Károly 86, 105 Steindl, Imre 31
St Anna’s Cathedral (Debrecen) 254–5 Serb Folk Festival (Szentendre) 143 City Council Chamber 100
St Anne’s Church (Budapest) 110 Serb Orthodox Church (Szeged) 246 Parliament (Budapest) 84
St Gotthard, Battle of 45 Serbia 246 Steinmetz, Captain Miklós 117
St István Király Museum Serbs 144, 195 Stephen I, King see István I, King
Baja 238 Sterk, Izidor 74
(Székesfehérvár) 158 Ráckeve 133, 136 Stern, József 162
St István Viaduct (Veszprém) 209 Székesfehérvár 159 Stock Exchange, former (Budapest) 83,
St István’s Cathedral (Székesfehérvár) Szentendre 133, 142–3, 195 86
Service stations 309 Stone Age 39
156, 158 Shoe shops 119 Storno House & Exhibition of Regional
St István’s Day 35 Shopping History (Sopron) 173, 174
St James, Church of (Kőszeg) 168 Budapest 118–19 Street names 297
St Mary Magdalene, Church of clothes and shoes 119 Stróbl, Alajos 58
department stores and shopping Hungarian State Opera (Budapest)
(Budapest) 68 centres 118, 119 92
St Michael’s Cathedral (Veszprém) 208, folk art 118–19 Liszt Academy of Music (Budapest)
food and drink 118, 119 105
210 markets 118, 119 Luischen 63
St Peter’s Cathedral (Pécs) 130, 180, 190 music 119 St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 91
St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 12, 18, opening hours 118, 296 Strobl, Zsigmond Kisfaludi
porcelain and antiques 119 Liberation Monument 54, 76
90–91 Sigismund of Luxemburg 41, 58, 66 Sándor Palace (Budapest) 61
concerts 120, 121 Parliament Street (Budapest) 68 Stühler, Friedrich August 88
Salesianum – Archbishopric’s Tourist Royal Palace (Visegrád) 145 Suba-Lyuk Cave (Bükk National Park)
Centre (Veszprém Vár) 210 Siklós 13, 15, 187, 188 225
Sándor, Count Vincent 61 Simor, János 146, 149 Suleyman the Magnificent, Sultan 44
Sándor Palace (Budapest) 61 Siófok 12, 13, 15, 183, 198 Sümeg 162
Sárospatak 213, 232–3 hotels 267–8 restaurants 281
hotels 268 restaurants 282–3
restaurants 284
Sárospatak Castle 29, 43, 232–3
Sárospatak Reformed College 233

GENERAL INDEX  323

Summer 35 Szentgotthárd 151, 163 Thermal springs and baths (cont.)
Sunshine 35 Szerencs 229 Lake Velence 154
Sváb Hill 115 Sziget Festival 35, 120, 121 Nagyatád 194
Sváby, Lajos 31 Szigetvár 15, 183, 194 Parádfürdő 213, 217
Swabians 115, 238 Rác Baths (Budapest) 78
Swimming 289, 290 siege of 44, 194 Rudas Baths (Budapest) 73, 77, 78
Sylvester II, Pope 40 Szigliget 12, 204–5 Sárvár Spa and Wellness Centre
Synagogues Szilvásvárad 13, 14, 224, 228 167
and search for oil 167
Baja synagogue 238 hotels 269 Széchenyi Baths (Budapest) 12, 26–7,
Great Synagogue (Budapest) 104 Szilveszter (New Year’s Eve) 37 109, 111, 260–61
Great Synagogue (Szeged) 10 Szolnok 245
Hódmezővásárhely synagogue Thököly, Imre 45
245 festivals and events 36 Thonet House (Budapest) 96, 99
Kecskemét synagogue 243 Szombathely 39, 151, 166 Tickets
Keszthely synagogue 201
Kőszeg synagogue 168–9 hotels 267 entertainment 120, 121
Nagykanizsa synagogue 162 restaurants 281 public transport 306, 307, 310, 311
New Synagogue (Sopron) 174 St Martin Week 36 Tihany Peninsula 12, 13, 15, 183, 206
New Synagogue (Szeged) 237, 247 Szondi, György 89 hotels 268
Nyíregyháza synagogue 259 Szőnyi, István 145 restaurants 283
Old Synagogue (Sopron) 174 Szórakaténusz Toy Museum and Tihany village 206
Old Synagogue (Szeged) 247 Workshop (Kecskemét) 241 Time zone 297
Pécs synagogue 191 Sztéhló, Gábor 68 Tipping
remains of 15th-century synagogue hospitals 297
(Budapest) 65 T restaurants 271
Sátoraljaújhely synagogue 233 Tisza, Lake 13, 14, 250, 292
Szolnok synagogue 245 Tabán (Budapest) 78–9 A Tour Around Lake Tisza 252–3
Zalaegerszeg synagogue 162 map 78 Tisza, River 24, 232, 235, 245, 246
Szabados, Béla 99 see also Gellért Hill and Tabán damming of 252
Szabó, Ervin 101 Tiszaderzs 253
Szabó, István 31, 50 Tabán Parish Church (Budapest) 79 Tiszafüred 14, 250, 253
Szabó, Zoltán 31 Tác 154–5 hotels 269
Szalafő 163 Táncsics, Mihály 65, 68 restaurants 285
Szalajka Valley 224, 228 Tapestry Hall (Parliament) 85 Titian, Assumption of the Virgin (copy)
Szálasi, Ferenc 47 Tápióbicske, Battle of 250 148
Szalay, Pál 259 Tapolca 12, 183, 205 Toilets, public 297
Szamos Marzipan Museum Tata 15, 177 Tokaj 215, 232
(Szentendre) 142 hotels 269
Szatmárcseke 257 hotels 267 itineraries 11, 13, 14
Százéves (Gyula) 245 restaurants 281 restaurants 284
Széchényi, Count Ferenc 46, 60, 102, Taxis 311 wine 32–3, 213, 226–7, 232, 275
175 to/from airport 304 Tompa, Mihály 231
Széchenyi, Count István 46, 88, 98, 175, Telcs, Ede 88, 96, 98, 105 Török, Richard 61
200 Telephones 302, 303 Tóth (architect) 240
Nagycenk 170 Television 303 Tourist information 296, 297
statue (Szeged) 246 Teller, Edward 31 Tours see Itineraries
Széchenyi Baths (Budapest) 12, 26–7, Temperatures 37 Town Halls
109, 111, 260–61 Templom Square (Szentendre) 142 Debrecen 254
Széchenyi Hill 115 Than, Mór 92 Dunaföldvár 186
Széchenyi Mansion (Nagycenk) 153, Theatres Hódmezővásárhely 245
170 Budapest 120, 121 Kapsovár 185, 189
Széchenyi Square (Budapest) 88 cave theatre (Fertőrákos) 170, 171 Kecskemét 242
Széchenyi Square (Győr) 179 Festival Theatre (Budapest) 115 Keszthely 200
Széchenyi tér (Pécs), street-by-street Grand National Theatre (Miskolc) 288, Kiskunfélegyháza 235, 244
192–3 289 Nyíregyháza 258
Széchenyi tér (Sopron) 175 József Katona Theatre (Kecskemét) Pécs 193
Széchenyi tér (Szeged) 246 240 Sopron 173
Szécsi, Dénes 149 National Dance Theatre (Budapest) Szeged 246
Szeged 10, 13, 14–15, 237, 246–7 115 Székesfehérvár 156
hotels 269 National Theatre (Miskolc) 230 Veszprém 208
map 247 National Theatre (Pécs) 191, 193, 288, Trabant cars 117
public transport 311 289 Traditional music 120, 121
restaurants 285 National Theatre (Szeged) 247 Trains see Rail travel
Székely, Bertalan 67, 68, 92 New Theatre (Budapest) 105 Trams 310, 311
Székesfehévar 29, 102, 151, 156–9 Palace of Arts (MÜPA) (Budapest) Transdanubia 130
hotels 267 115, 120, 121 history 39
restaurants 281 Petőfi Theatre (Veszprém) 208 Northern Transdanubia 150–81
street-by-street 156–7 Theatre Museum (Miskolc) 230 Southern Transdanubia 182–211
Szenna 194 Theft 298 Transylvania 45, 47, 130
Szent István and Gizella Monument Thermal springs and baths 290 Travel 304–11
(Veszprém Vár) 210 Aquanus Spa (Sóstógyógyfürdő) air 304, 305
Szentendre 23, 133, 142–4, 195 259 Around Budapest 134
festivals 143 Aquaticum Health and Spa Centre arriving in Hungary 304–5
hotels 266 (Debrecen) 255 boat 307
itineraries 13, 14 Bükfürdő Health and Adventure bus 306–7
map 143 Centre (Bük) 167 car 305, 308–9
restaurants 280 Cave Baths (Miskolctapolca) 213, in cities 310–11
Szentgál Valley 160 229 coach 305
Gellért Baths (Budapest) 21, 70, 73, ferry 305
74–5
Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa 236,
256
Harkány Spa and Open-Air Baths 188
Lake Hévíz 204

324  GENERAL INDEX

Travel (cont.) Veszprém 15, 161, 183, 208–11 Wine (cont.)
Great Plain 236 festivals and events 34 What to Drink in Hungary 274–5
Northern Highlands 215 hotels 268 Wines of Hungary 32–3
Northern Transdanubia 153 map 209
rail 304–5, 306, 307 restaurants 283 Winesong Festival (Pécs and Villány) 36
Southern Transdanubia 185 Veszprém Vár street-by-street 210–11 Winter 37
travelling around Hungary 306–7 Winter sports 293
Veszprém Zoo 209 Władysław III of Poland 41
Traveller’s cheques 300 Vidagó Concert Hall (Budapest) 98 Władysław Jagiello 44
Treasury (Esztertgom Basilica) 148 Vidagó Square (Budapest) 98 Wolf, Emil 88
Trianon, Treaty of 47 Vienna, Battle of 45 Woman Bathing (Lotz) 63
Trinity Column (Sporon) 152 Vienna Gate Square (Budapest) 68 Woman in White-Spotted Dress (Rippl-
Tripartitum 44 Vigyázó, Count Sándor 137
Triumphal Arch (Vác) 137 Villány 13, 15, 187 Rónai) 189
Tunnel (Budapest) 61 Woodcarving 186, 194
Túr, River 257 festivals and events 36 Workers’ Movement Memorial
Turin, Treaty of 231 restaurants 283
Túristvándi 257 Villány Hills 183, 184 (Memento Park) 117
Turkish Bank (Budapest) 98 Villánykövesd 187 World War I 47
Turkish House (Szigetvár) 194 Visas 296
Turks 21, 41, 43, 44–5 Visegrád 13, 14, 133, 145 Gate of Heroes (Szeged) 246
hotels 266 Heroes’ Gate (Veszprém) 208
baths 74, 77, 78, 79 restaurants 280 World War II 476
Battle of Mohács 186, 187 Visegrád Palace Games 35 Budapest Holocaust Memorial Centre
Eger 220, 221, 222, 223 The Visitation (Master MS) 62 114
Great Plain 235 Víziváros (Budapest) 110 Holocaust Memorial (Budapest) 104
Győr 178, 179 Víziváros (Esztergom) 146 House of Terror Museum (Budapest)
liberation of Buda from 65, 66, 68 Vlachs 257 105
Mátyás Church (Budapest) 66 Vojtovits (architect) 258 see also Holocaust; Jews
Pécs 183, 190, 191 Voroshilov, Marshal Kliment 76 Woroniecki, Brigadier 83, 86
Royal Palace (Budapest) 58 Vörösmarty, Mihály 30, 60, 230
siege of Kőszeg 168 Mihály Vörösmarty Square (Budapest) Y
Szeged 247 96, 98
Székesfehérvár 158 Votive Church (Szeged) 14, 246 Ybl, Miklós 31, 93, 170
Szigetvár 194 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget
tombstones 78 W (Budapest) 113
see also Mosques Fancy Stable (Parád) 217
Wagner, Otto 208 gardens (Tabán) 78
U Wagner, Richard 89 Hungarian State Opera (Budapest) 92–3
Walking see Hiking Kazinczy Mausoleum (Sátoraljaújhely)
Udvary, Géza 189 Wallenberg, Raoul 47, 79 233
Ulászló I, King 41 Warsaw Pact 48, 50 Lutheran Church (Kecskemét) 242
Ulászló II, King 44 Water, drinking 299 Royal Palace (Budapest) 58, 60
Underground (Budapest) see Metro Water parks see Aqua parks St Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest) 90
Ungleich, Philipp 64 Water polo 289 statue of 78
Unicum 275 Water sports 291, 293
University Church (Budapest) 100 Water Tower (Margaret Island) 113 Youth hostels 263
Úrkút 160 Water-skiing 291
Utilitarian architecture 29 Weather 35–7 Z
Weissmuller, Johnny 30
V Wellisch, Arthur 114 Zagyva, River 245
Wellisch family 114 Zala, River 162, 198
Vác 10, 13, 14, 135, 137 Wellness hotels 26 Zala, György 61, 77, 108, 190
restaurants 280 Wenckheim family 101 Zalaegerszeg 162, 167
Wesselényi Viewing Tower Zamárdi 12, 199
Vaccinations 299 Zebegény 145
Váci Street (Budapest) 55, 94, 97, 99 (Balatonalmádi) 207 Zemplén Hills 25, 213, 232
Wi-Fi 302, 303 Zenta, Battle of 59
street-by-street 96–7 Wildlife 24–5 Zettl, Gusztáv, Zettl-Langer Collection
Vácrátót 137
Vadása, Lake 163 Africa Museum and Safari Park (Sopron) 175
Vágó, József 88 (Balatonederics) 204 Zichy, Bishop Ferenc 178
Vágó, László 88, 105 Budapest Zoo 12, 107, 111, 121 Zichy family 156
Vágó, Pál 247 Hortobágyi Vadaspark 256 Zirc 151, 155, 161
Vajda, Zsigmond 84 Sóstó Zoo 259 Zitterbarth, Mátyás Jr 99
Vajdahunyad Castle (Budapest) 108, Veszprém Zoo 209 Zoltán, Tildy 194
Zemplén Hills 232 Zoos see Wildlife
109, 111 see also Horses; National parks; Zrínyi, Captain Miklós 194
Vákért Bazaar (Budapest) 79 Nature reserves Zsigmondy, Vilmos 111
Varga, Imre 104 Wine Zsolnay, Vilmos 193
Várhegy 199 Aszú 32, 33, 213, 232 Zsolnay ceramics 89
Városliget (Budapest) 12, 107, 108, Badacsony 205
Bakony Mountains 160 Geological and Geophysical Institute
110–11 Bull’s Blood 11, 32, 213, 223 of Hungary (Budapest) 87
Városlőd 160 festivals 36, 187 Mátyás Church (Budapest) 66
Vass, József 244 Gyöngyös 216 Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest)
Vaszary, János 31, 189 Hajós 238 101
VAT 22 Pannonhalma Abbey 181 Thonet House (Budapest) 96, 99
Vata, Prince 72 Rákóczi Cellars (Tokaj) 232 Town Hall (Kiskunfélegyháza) 244
Vegetarian food 270 Southern Transdanubia 183 Zsolnay Fountain (Pécs) 184, 193
Velemér 163 Tokaj 11, 232 Zsolnay Museum (Pécs) 190, 192
Velence 154 Tokaj Museum 232 Zsótér, László 114
Velence, Lake 15, 151, 154, 292 Villány-Siklós Wine Route 13, 183, 187 Zukor, Adolph 30
Zwack family 241
restaurants 281 Zwack Pálinka Manufactory (Fruit
Veronese, Paolo 175 Brandy Distillery and Exhibition)
Vértesszőlős 39 (Kecskemét) 241

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  325

Acknowledgments

Hachette Livre Polska would like to thank the following Budapest; Vanda Tódor at the Budapest Festival Centre.
staff at Dorling Kindersley:
Photography Permissions
Publisher The Publishers would like to thank all those who gave
Douglas Amrine permission to photograph at musuems, palaces, churches,
Publishing Managers restaurants, hotels, shops and other sights too numerous
Anna Streiffert, Christine Stroyan to list individually. Particular thanks go to: the Aquaticum
Managing Art Editor Thermal Baths in Debrecen; Bacchus Borkereskedés; the
Jane Ewart Christian Museum in Esztergom; staff at Festetics Palace
Editors and Helikon Palace Museum, Keszthely; Loránd Bereczky at
Sylvia Goulding, Jacky Jackson, Michelle Crane the Hungarian National Gallery; Gyula Fülöp at the Szent
Designer István Király Museum, Székesfehérvár; Ágnes Langer at the
Kate Leonard Zettl-Langer Collection, Sopron.
Translator
Magda Hannay Picture Credits
Map Co-Ordinator The publisher would like to thank the following for their
Casper Morris kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
DTP Manager
Natasha Lu (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right;
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Rachel Barber, Ellen Root
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326  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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PHRASE BOOK  327

Phrase Book

Pronunciation Useful Words
When reading the literal pronunciation given in the right-
hand column of this phrase book, pronounce each syllable big nagy noj
as if it formed part of an English word. Remember the points small kicsi kichi
below, and your pronunciation will be even closer to correct hot forró meleg
Hungarian. The first syllable of each word should be stressed cold hideg hideg
(and is shown in bold). When asking a question the pitch good jó yow
should be raised on the penultimate syllable. “R”s in Hungarian bad rossz ross
words are rolled. enough elég elayg
well jól yowl
a as the long ‘a’ in father open nyitva nyitva
ay as in ‘pay’ closed zárva zarva
e as in ‘Ted’ left bal bol
ew similar to the sound in ‘hew’ right jobb yob
g always as in ‘goat’ straight on egyenesen ejeneshen
i as in ‘bit’ near közel kurzel
o as in the ‘ou’ in ‘ought’ far messze messeh
u as in ‘tuck’ up fel fel
y always as in ‘yes’ (except as in ay above) down le leh
yuh as the ‘yo’ in ‘canyon’ early korán koran
zh like the ‘s’ in leisure late késő kayshur
entrance bejárat beh-yarut
In Emergency exit kijárat ki-yarut
toilet WC vaytsay
Help! Segítség! shegeetshayg! free/unoccupied szabad sobbod
Stop! Stop! shtop! free/no charge ingyen injen
Look out! Tessék vigyázni! teshayk vidyahzni! telefonalhutokinen
Call a doctor Hívjon orvost! heevyon orvosht!
Call an ambulance! Hívjon mentőt! heevyon menturt! Making a Telephone Call kewlfurldreh?
Call the police! Hívja a heevya a rendur seretnayk ed-yuh er-
rendőrséget! Can I call abroad Telefonálhatok
shayget! from here? innen külföldre? bessaylgetaysht
Call the fire Hívja a heevya a I would like to call Szeretnék egy R- lebon-yoleetuni
department! tűzoltókat! hayee bessaylgetaysht
Where is the nearest Hol van a legköze- tewzoltowkot! collect beszélgetést vissuh-heevom
hol von a legkurze- lebonyolítani kayshurb
telephone? lebbi telefon? local call helyi beszélgetés hud-yuhutnayk ed-
Where is the nearest Hol van a legközele- lebbi telefon? yuh ewzenetet
hospital? bbi kórház? hol von a legkurze I’ll ring back later Visszahívom vahr-yon
később kichit hungosh-
lebbi koorhahz? shob-bon kayrem

Communications Essentials Could I leave Hagyhatnék egy ez menn-yibeh
a message? üzenetet? kerewl?
Hold on! Várjon!
Yes/No Igen/Nem igen/nem Could you speak kicsit hangosab- seretnayk ed-yuh …-t
Please (offering) Tessék teshayk kuphutaw
Please (asking) Kérem kayrem up a little, ban, kérem!
kurssurnurm please? urnurknayl…?
Thank you Köszönöm kurssurnurm nem chuk kur-
No, thank you Köszönöm nem bochanutot kayrek
Excuse me, please Bocsánatot kérek yow nopot Shopping rewlnayzek
Hello Jó napot vissontlatashruh elfogud-yak uh
Goodbye Viszontlátásra yaw-ayssukat/yaw-ayt How much is this? Ez mennyibe
Good night Jó éjszakát/jó éjt reggel kerül? hitelkart-yakut?
morning (4–9 am) reggel daylelurt Hahnkor
morning délelőtt ay-yel I would like … Szeretnék egy …-t
(9am–noon) daylootan Do you have …? Kapható nyitnak?
morning éjjel eshteh Hahnkor zárnak?
tegnup önöknél …? ez
muh I’m just looking Csak körülnézek oz
holnup drahga
(midnight–4am) délután it Do you take Elfogadják a olchow
afternoon ot credit cards? hitelkártyákat? mayret
evening este mi feheer
yesterday tegnap mikor? What time do Hánykor feketeh
today ma miayrt? you open? nyitnak? pirosh
tomorrow holnap hol? sharga
here itt What time do Hánykor zurld
there ott you close? zárnak? cake
What? mi? borna
When? mikor? this one ez ontikvahrioosh
Why? miért? that one az paykshayg
Where? hol? expensive drága bonk
cheap olcsó kurn-yuveshbolt
Useful Phrases size méret tsookrassduh
white fehér putikuh
How are you? Hogy van? hod-yuh vun? black fekete aroo-haz
Very well, köszönöm kurssurnurm red piros vi rag-ewzlet
thank you nagyon jól yellow sárga zurld-shaygesh
Pleased to meet Örülök hogy megis- nojjon yowl green zöld pi-uts
you merhettem ur-rewlurk hod-yuh blue kék oo-yushagosh
brown barna poshta-hivatal
megishmerhettem tsipurbolt
See you soon! Szia! seeyuh! Types of Shop uy-yandaykbolt
Excellent! Nagyszerű! nud-yusserew! abaytsay
Is there … here? Van itt … ? vun itt? antique dealer antikvárius ootuzashi iroduh
Where can I get …? Hol kaphatok …-t? hol kuphutok …-t? baker’s pékség
How do you get to? Hogy lehet …-ba hod-yuh lehet …-buh bank bank
eljutni? bookshop könyvesbolt
How far is …? milyen messze el-yootni? cake shop cukrászda
van …? meeyen messeh chemist patika
Do you speak Beszél angolul? department store áruház
English? van …? florist virágüzlet
I can’t speak Nem beszélek bessayl ungolool? greengrocer zöldséges
Hungarian magyarul nem bessaylek market piac
I don’t understand Nem értem newsagent újságos
Can you help me? Kérhetem a mud-yarool post office postahivatal
segítségét? nem ayrtem shoe shop cipőbolt
Please speak slowly Tessék lassabban kayrhetem uh souvenir shop ajándékbolt
beszélni supermarket ábécé/ABC
Sorry! Elnézést! shegeechaygayt? travel agent utazási iroda
teshayk lushubbun

bessaylni
elnayzaysht!

328  PHRASE BOOK

Staying in a Hotel kolbász kolbahss sausage
leves levesh soup
Have you any Van kiadó vun ki-udaw soba- máj my liver
vacancies? szobájuk? yook marha marha beef
double room with francia-ágyas mustár mooshtahr mustard
double bed szoba frontsia-ahjosh narancs noronch orange
twin room kétágyas szoba sobuh olaj oloy oil
single room egyágyas szoba paradicsom porodichom tomatoes
room with a fürdőszobás/ kaytad-yush sobuh párolt pahrolt steamed
bath/shower zuhanyzós szoba ed-yad-yush sobuh pite piteh pie
porter portás fewrdur-sobahsh/ sertéshús shertaysh-hoosh pork
key kulcs rántott rahntsott fried in batter
I have a reservation Foglaltam egy zoohonzahsh soba rizs rizh rice
szobát portahsh rostélyos szelet rosh-tail-osh sellet steak
koolch roston roshton- grilled
Sightseeing foglultum ed-yuh sajt shoyt cheese
saláta sholahta salad
bus autóbusz/busz sobat só shaw salt
tram villamos owtawbooss/booss sonka shonka ham
trolley bus troli(busz) villumosh sör shur beer
train vonat troli(booss) sült shewlt fried/roasted
underground metró vonut sült burgonya shewlt boorgonya fried potatoes/chips
bus stop buszmegálló metraw sütemény shewtemayn-yuh cake, pastry
tram stop villamosmegálló boossmegallaw szendvics sendvich sandwich
art gallery képcsarnok villomosh-megahllaw szósz sowss sauce
palace palota kayp-chornok tea tay-uh tea
cathedral székesegyház polola tej tay milk
church templom saykesh-ejhajz tejszín taysseen cream
garden kert templom tengeri hal tengeri hol seafood
library könyvtár kert tojás toyahsh egg
museum múzeum kurnvtar töltött turlturt stuffed
tourist information turista információ moozayoom vörösbor vur-rurshbor red wine
toorishta zsemle zhemleh roll
closed for public ünnepnap zárva zsemlegombóc zhemleh-gombowts dumplings
holiday informatzeeo
ewn-nepnap zarva noolluh
Eating Out Egy asztalt szere- Numbers nulla ed-yuh
tnék… személyre ed-yuh usstult seret- egy kettur, kayt
A table for … nayk … semayreh 0 kettő, két harom
please Szeretnék egy 1 három nayd-yuh
asztalt foglalni seretnayked-yuh 2 négy urt
I want to reserve usstultfoglolni 3 öt hut
a table Kérem a számlát 4 hat hayt
kayrem uh 5 hét n-yolts
The bill, please samlat 6 nyolc kilents
7 kilenc teez
I am a vegetarian Vegetáriánus vegetari-ahnoosh 8 tíz tizened-yuh
I’d like … vagyok vojok 9 tizenegy tizenkettur
waiter/waitress 10 tizenkettő tizenharom
menu Szeret nék egy …-t seret nayk ed-yuh …-t 11 tizenhárom tizen-nayd-yuh
wine list pincér/pincérnő pintsayr/pintsayrnur 12 tizennégy tizenurt
chef’s special étlap aytlup 13 tizenöt tizenhut
tip itallap itullup 14 tizenhat tizenhayt
glass konyhafőnök konha-furnurt oyahu- 15 tizenhét tizenn-yolts
bottle 16 tizennyolc tizenkilents
knife ajánlata lotta 17 tizenkilenc hooss
fork borravaló borovolo 18 húsz hoossoned-yuh
spoon pohár pohar 19 huszonegy hoossonkettur
breakfast üveg ewveg 20 huszonkettő hurmints
lunch kés kaysh 21 harminc hurmintsed-yuh
dinner villa villuh 22 harmincegy hurmintskettur
main courses kanál kunal 30 harminckettő ned-yuven
starters reggeli reg-geli 31 negyven urtven
vegetables ebéd ebayd 32 ötven hutvun
desserts vacsora vochora 40 hatvan hetven
rare főételek fur-aytelek 50 hetven n-yoltsvun
well done előételek elur-aytelek 60 nyolcvan kilentsven
zöldség zurld-shayg 70 kilencven saz
édességek aydesh-shaydek 80 száz sazteez
angolosan ongoloshan 90 száztíz kayt-saz
átsütve ahtshewtveh 100 kétszáz haromssaz
apple 110 háromszáz ezer
Menu Decoder mineral water 200 ezer teezezer
beans 300 tízezer milliaw
alma olma banana 1000 millió
ásványvíz ahshvahnveez apricot 10,000 ed-yuh perts
bab bob lamb 1,000,000 awruh
banán bonahn pepper faylawruh
barack borotsk chicken Time egy perc vusharnup
bárány bahrahn chocolate óra haytfur
bors borsh sugar one minute félóra kedd
csirke cheerkeh vinegar hour vasárnap serduh
csokoládé chokolahday ice cream half an hour hétfő chewturturk
cukor tsookor white wine Sunday kedd payntek
ecet etset garlic Monday szerda sombut
fagylalt fodyuhloot boiled Tuesday csütörtök
fehérbor feheerbor mushrooms Wednesday péntek
fokhagyma fokhodyuhma goulash Thursday szombat
főtt furt fruit Friday
gomba gomba fruit juice Saturday
gulyás gooyahsh onions
gyümölcs dyewmurlch fish
gyümölcslé dyewmurlch-lay meat
hagyma hojma coffee
hal hol bread
hús hoosh potatoes
kávé kavay
kenyér ken-yeer
krumpli kroompli