World Cheese Book by DK (z-lib.org)

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Juliet Harbutt

“Brilliant and inspirational—
a must-have for anyone who loves cheese.” Alex James



chbeooekse



chbeooekse

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

juliet harbutt

CONTRIBUTORS

martin aspinwall • stéphane blohorn • vincenzo bozzetti • kevin john broome
ran buck • sagi cooper • dianne curtin • jim davies • sheana davis • angela gray

rie hijikata • rumiko honma • katie jarvis • monika linton • gurth pretty
hansueli renz • richard sutton • will studd • joe warwick • aad vernooij

London, new York, MeLbourne,
Munich, and deLhi

Project Editor danielle di Michiel
Senior Art Editor elly king

Editorial Assistants Shashwati Tia Sarkar, erin boeck Motum
Designer william hicks

Managing Editor dawn henderson
Managing Art Editor christine keilty
Senior Jacket Creative nicola Powling
Senior Production Editor Jennifer Murray
Production Controller alice holloway
Creative Technical Support Sonia charbonnier

US Editors rebecca warren, christy Lusiak

DK India
DTP Designers dheeraj arora, Preetam Singh, Jagtar Singh

Senior Designer Tannishtha chakraborty
Design Manager romi chakraborty
Head of Publishing aparna Sharma

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CONTENTS

Introduction 6 Germany, Austria,
and Switzerland 234
Understanding Cheese 8
Using this Book 9 Germany 235
Fresh Cheeses 10 Austria 238
Aged Fresh Cheeses 12 Switzerland 240
Soft White Cheeses 14 Special Features
Semi-soft Cheeses 16
Hard Cheeses 18 Emmentaler 242
Blue Cheeses 20
Flavor-added Cheeses 22 Scandinavia 246
The Perfect Cheeseboard 24
Denmark 247
France 26 Norway 249
Sweden 250
Special Features Finland 253
Beaufort 38
Brie de Meaux 46 Eastern Europe and
Comté 56 the Near East 254
Epoisses de Bourgogne 64
Reblochon de Savoie 74 Greece 256
Roquefort 82 Hungary 260
Sainte-Maure de Touraine 92 Slovakia 260
Turkey 261
Italy 102 Cyprus 261
Lebanon 264
Special Features Israel 264
Gorgonzola 110 Special Features
Mozzarella di Bufala 120
Parmigiano-Reggiano 130 Feta 258
Taleggio 138 Halloumi 262

Spain and Portugal 146 The Americas 266

Spain 148 USA 270
Portugal 167 Canada 312
Special Features Mexico 320
Brazil 321
Mahòn 154 Argentina 321
Manchego 162 Special Features

Great Britain and Monterey Jack 286
Ireland 170
Japan 322
England 172 Australia and
Scotland 207 New Zealand 326
Wales 213
Ireland 219 Australia 328
Special Features New Zealand 335

Cheddar 180 Glossary 342
Stilton 192 Resources 344
Yarg Cornish Cheese 200 Index 346
Caboc 210 Contributors 351
Caerphilly 216 Acknowledgments 352

Low Countries 226

Belgium 227
The Netherlands 230
Special Features

Gouda 232

Introduction

Evidence of cheesemaking has been found dating back to 2800 bce, but the
discovery of cheese would have come about as a happy accident. Any milk left
to warm by a fire or stored in a sack made from the stomach of an animal
would have soured, causing the milk solids (the curds) and liquid (the whey) to
coagulate and separate, allowing humans to learn that their most precious
commodity, milk, could be preserved in the form of cheese and, eventually, that
rennet found in the stomach of the milk-producing animal was the coagulant.

The Story of Cheese know today as Trappist or monastery cheeses, of which

Now, some 5,000 years later, cheese is made all over the Maroilles of Northern France was probably the first.

INTRoduCTIoN world with all kinds of milk, from reindeer’s milk in Historically, a cheese’s size was determined by the
Lapland, to buffalo’s milk in Australia, and yak’s milk in amount of milk available and the proximity to the
the Kingdom of Bhutan. The miracle of cheese is that, nearest market; hence, mountain cheese tended to be
although milk tastes virtually the same the world over, large, with the farmers combining their milk to make
the diversity of textures, tastes, and aromas is almost slow-ripening cheeses they could sell at the end of the
infinite, and virtually any cheese can be made anywhere summer months when the cows returned to the valleys.
in the world. The size, shape, and milk of a cheese, Those made in the valleys and near large markets would
however, has been determined by such diverse external have been smaller, quicker to ripen, and sold at weekly
forces as historical events, centuries of experimentation,
religious orders, and the markets. Shape was determined
terrain, while the nuances by the sophistication of the
of texture and taste are maker and the raw materials
influenced by the raw available to make the molds—
materials—the type and whether woven grass, fired
breed of animal, the soil, clay, or wood.

the grazing, the climate, Today, Europe’s traditional

microclimate, and ingenuity cheeses are typically made

of the cheesemaker. in designated areas by

various artisan producers

European cheeses owe whose combined volume is

much to the Greeks’ sufficiently high that the

6 knowledge and, later, the cheese can be found around

Romans, who built on that the world. Classic examples

knowledge and took their include raw milk Camembert

recipes for making cheese de Normandie (see p44), made

across Europe to feed their by only five producers and

legions as their Empire Parmigiano-Reggiano (see

spread—a legacy clearly seen p130), made by around 830

throughout Europe to this day. small producers. Artisan

The Middle Ages saw the cheeses developed in the last

proliferation of monastic 30 years or so, however, tend

orders across Europe and into to be invented by individual

Britain and Ireland, particularly cheesemakers and are often

the Benedictine and, later, hard to find outside their

the Cistercian monks, who The ancient art of cheesemaking is lovingly depicted in region or country of origin,
developed the cheeses we this colorful Swiss wood engraving. even if made in large volumes.

The Raw Materials How Cheese is Made iNTROduCTiON

The individual identity and personality of a cheese is Cheesemaking equipment and methods vary from 7
determined by a number of facts of nature. cheesemaker to cheesemaker, but the basic principles
involved have remained unchanged for thousands of years.
The climate and landscape, including the minerals in
the soil, affect what flora grows, and therefore what a 1 The milk ideally, milk is pumped straight from the
milk-producing animal eats, thereby influencing the milking parlor to the dairy where it is checked and tested
subtle flavors of the milk. Even the most unobservant to ensure it is pure and clean. it may then be pasteurized,
cannot fail to see and smell the difference between fresh typically at 165ºF (73ºC) for 15 seconds. The milk is
grass, wild clover, and meadow flowers compared with transferred to a vat and heated until it reaches the
compacted feed, silage, or turnips. Minerals also affect the acidity level required for the type of cheese being made.
speed of ripening, the texture, and flavor of the cheese.
2 Coagulation or curdling Once the acidity reaches the
The animal and its grazing habits add another desired level, a special cocktail of lactic bacteria or starter
dimension. The comfort-loving cow is largely found on rich culture is added. This both converts the lactose to lactic acid
plains, lush valleys, and sunny mountain pastures. Goats, and contributes to the flavor, aroma, and texture of the
unlike cows and sheep, are browsers, tearing sparse but cheese. (Too much or not enough acidity results in imperfect
aromatic flora from hedges, craggy peaks, rock-strewn cheeses.) Most cheeses are made by adding rennet (derived
valleys or, when the opportunity arises, from the farmers’ from the stomach of a milk-fed animal) or another
carefully manicured garden. The resulting milk is coagulant to make sure the protein and fat in the milk bond
herbaceous, like a crisp, white wine infused with herbs, and are not lost in the whey.
becoming like marzipan or ground almonds with age.
Curdling is the fundamental step in cheesemaking, as the
The sweet, almost caramel, taste of ewe’s milk has been degree of coagulation determines the final moisture content
valued in Europe and the Middle East for thousands of of the cheese, and this in turn affects the speed of the
years. The numerous breeds adapt to almost any climate, fermentation process.
some surviving on seemingly nothing, yielding but a few
liters of milk a day imbued with the essence of the wild, 3 Separation of curds and whey The freshly formed
aromatic herbs, grasses, and flora that form their diet. curd looks like white jelly, while the whey is a yellow-green
color. Gently separating the curds from the whey creates
The breed of animal can also be a factor. Compared soft, high-moisture cheeses, while cutting the curds expels
with the high volume yield of the Friesian, for example, more whey and produces harder cheeses. The finer the curd
milk from Jersey or Guernsey cows has large fat globules is cut, the harder and finer-grained the final cheese. The
that produce a richer, smoother deep Monet-yellow whey is drained off once it reaches the desired acidity.
cheese, and the sweet, mellifluous milk of the Montbéliarde
cow is renowned throughout the Savoy region of France. 4 Shaping and salting The curds are then piled into
molds or hoops and may be pressed before being turned out
The microclimate of both the milk and the cheese room of their molds. Once out of the mold, the cheese is rubbed or
provide the finishing touch. Tiny colorful, wind-born sprinkled with salt or soaked in brine before being placed
molds and yeasts treat each new batch of protein-rich in a cold room or cellar to age.
curd as a canvas on which to create their daily masterpiece,
while a multitude of naturally occurring bacteria prefer 5 Aging and the affineur The aging process is the art
the seclusion and warmth of the interior to work their and science of cheesemaking, as it brings out the character
magic. These convert the sweet milk sugars, or lactose, of the milk and the unique flavors attributed to the
into lactic acid and so begins the fermentation process. grazing. A good affineur, someone who ripens cheeses, can
Once an accident of nature, most have been harnessed by nurture the simplest cheese to yield up every nuance of
cheesemakers to ensure the end result is more predictable. flavor. Artisan cheeses vary from day to day, depending on
These microflora, along with the subtleties inherent in the grazing, the season, the conditions in the cheese room,
milk, are lost when the milk is pasteurized and must be and the cheesemaker; so, unlike wine, cheese has a
re-introduced in the form of a cocktail of bacteria known vintage every day, which is what makes it so extraordinary
as a starter culture. Regrettably, these laboratory- and wonderful.
produced cultures cannot emulate the complexity
provided by Mother Nature.

understanding cheese FRESH CHEESES Understanding HARD CHEESES
(See pp10–11) Cheese (See pp18–19)

AGED FRESH CHEESES there is no universal system for identifying cheeses. instead, BLUE CHEESES
(See pp12–13) every cheese-producing country has its own system using (See pp20–21)
technical terms such as semi-hard, semi-cooked, pressed
SOFT WHITE CHEESES uncooked, smear-ripened, or washed-curd that are all but FLAVOR-ADDED
(See pp14–15) meaningless, and confusing, to cheese lovers. CHEESES (See pp22–23)

SEMI-SOFT CHEESES By contrast, this book uses the editor-in-chief’s easy-to-grasp
(See pp16–17) system of identifying cheese types, based on the type of rind a
cheese grows and its texture.

the way it works is that the amount of moisture, or whey, that
is left in the cheese determines not only the texture of the
interior, or paste as it is often called, but also the type of rind
and molds the cheese will grow. there is the odd exception that
crosses two of these categories, but most are very obvious.

the editor-in-chief’s system (see pp10–23) identifies seven
different types of cheese:
Fresh, Aged Fresh, Soft White, Semi-soft, Hard,
Blue, and Flavor-added.

using this system, with just a glance and a gentle squeeze
you can categorize 99 percent of the cheeses you meet,
whether from a French market, a new York cheese shop, or
elsewhere. With a little practice, you can assess a cheese’s
basic character, strength of flavor, how it will behave when
cooked, and even its ripeness and quality.

Denomination and In 1666, Roquefort was the first cheese to
8 Designation of Origin be protected by law, the forerunner for the
aOc system in France.
some cheeses have legally protected names linked to their
provenance. certifying the origin of a cheese recognizes its
terroir (French) or tipicità (italian), acknowledging that the
unique character of each traditionally made food is a result of
a complex interaction of soil, plant life, and climate combined
with traditional production methods and raw materials—a
combination that cannot be replicated elsewhere. there are
various national systems, such as the French aOc
(appellation d’Origine contrôlée) and the italian dOc
(denominazione d’Origine controllata), as well as the european
community-created PdO (Protected designation of Origin) for
traditional regional wines and food made throughout the ec.

Using this Book

This book will open up a world of exciting cheeses for cheese fans. The core of the book is formed by chapters
cataloging cheeses from each country, detailing their origins, tasting notes, and how best to enjoy them, with
prominent and important cheeses explored in greater depth. The information box included with each cheese entry,
explained here, contains information that is key to understanding the identity of the cheese.

Region Pecorino Siciliano PDO Name USing ThiS book

Some cheeses are made all over a This cheese is documented as far The name of a cheese is always given in 9
country, while others are made by back as 900 bce, when odysseus the language of the cheese’s origin,
various producers in specific regions. meets the Cyclops Polyphemus in followed by any designation of origin
Where three or fewer producers make homer’s Odyssey. As in ancient times, status if it applies.
the cheese in a specific location, a city this cheese is still hand-made using
or town is also listed. The region can lamb’s rennet. Introduction
reveal much about the terroir of a
TASTing noTES Yellow and sometimes This describes cheese in terms of its
cheese, which dictates the type studded with whole black peppercorns, identity, giving useful information about
of animal found there and its it is firm and friable with a pungent, its makers and origins.
grazing environment. salty, full, and long-lasting flavor.
Tasting Notes
Age hoW To EnjoY Serve young cheeses with
vegetables; aged ones with bread and These describe the aroma, flavor,
This gives the age or range of ages in olives or grated over pasta. texture, and finish of the cheese.
which a cheese is at its best.
ITALY Sicily How to Enjoy
Weight and Shape Age 4–12 months
Weight and Shape 9–261⁄2lb (4–12kg), This offers suggestions on how best
Some cheeses are made in one weight wheel to enjoy the cheese, including cooking
and shape only, but most are produced Size D. 51⁄2–15in (14–38cm), H. 4–7in ideas and wine accompaniments.
(10–18cm)
in a range of sizes, which we have Milk Ewe Map
listed wherever possible. Classification Hard
Producer Various A quick reference to the country that
Size produces the cheese. The red dot
indicates the general location or region
This gives the dimensions of a cheese, of the cheesemaker. Where there is no
usually measurements such as red dot, the cheese is produced all over
the country.
diameter (D), height (h), length (L), or
width (W), depending on its shape. Photograph
Where there is a range of sizes, a
For ease of recognition, this shows a
range of dimensions is given. in some cheese as it is sold. generally, this
cases, where the range is not known, shows both the exterior and the interior
the dimensions of the pictured cheese of the cheese.

are given. Scale

Milk This symbol provides an at-a-glance
visual guide to the approximate size of
This gives the type of animal whose the cheese in relation to an averaged-
milk is used to make the cheese. in sized hand. When a cheese has its size
some cases, a cheese may be made listed as “various,” the symbol indicates
the size of the cheese photographed.
from a mix of milk from different Where the symbol is missing, the sizing
animals, depending on the season information was unavailable, or the
cheese is soft and sold in tubs or pots.
and availability.

Classification

Each cheese is categorized as one of
the seven types described in the
Editor-in-Chief’s system (see
pp10–23).

Producer

Up to three producers are listed for
artisan cheesemakers. “Various”

indicates that the cheese is made by
more than three producers.

Fresh Cheeses HALLOUMI

NO RIND ∙ HIGH MOISTURE CONTENT ∙ MILD ∙ FRESH ∙ LEMONY

Ready to eat within a few days, or even hours, of being made, fresh cheeses are
so young that they barely have time to develop any more than a whisper of the
milk’s potential flavor, so the taste is typically described as lactic or milky,
sweet, lemony, refreshing, citrus, or acidic. This does not mean they are
bland. On the contrary, the skill of the true craftsman can coax the
subtle flavors from the milk; the sweet, grassy notes of cow’s milk; the
aromatic, herbaceous character of goat’s milk, with its hints of white
wine and crushed almonds; the richness of ewe’s milk that suggests
Brazil nuts, caramelized onions, and roast lamb; the leathery, earthy
undertones of buffalo’s milk.

UNDERSTaNDING CHEESE Defining Features FLAVOR Milky with a
gentle acidity that is
Fresh cheeses are easy to recognize because lemony fresh or slightly
they are very white, usually shiny, and have sharp like yogurt or
no rind. Beyond their defining features shown sour cream.
below, however, there is much variety among
them, particularly in terms of texture (see
Excellent Examples, opposite).

MOIST The high moisture content of fresh FAT CONTENT
cheeses makes them feel soft on the palate. They have the
lowest fat content
TEXTURE Types vary of all the cheese
categories—19–21
percent per 3.5oz.

enormously—soft,
crumbly, spreadable,
mousse-like, creamy,
stringy like Mozzarella,
10 or firm and sliceable

like Halloumi.

AGE MOISTURE They
From one to seven have the highest
days or up to 12 moisture content
months pickled in of all the cheese
brine or oil. categories, which
means they have a
RIND No rind, so COLOR White in color very short shelf life.
there is little difference and usually shiny.
between the interior
and exterior.

How They’re Made Excellent Examples

The most common fresh cheeses 1 Halloumi
such as fromage frais or cottage
cheese are made by heating the Firstly, the whey, left over from making hard cheese, A harder, denser
milk then adding a starter culture is heated with a little vinegar to raise its acidity and texture than other
of bacteria that will cause the milk cause the protein to rise to the surface in tiny lumps. fresh cheeses
to curdle. Excess whey is then because the curd has
drained off and the loose curd been “kneaded”.The
is put into cheesecloth or small brine it is preserved
molds for a few hours before being in gives it a salty
turned out and salted. A similar tang. (See p262–63.)
process, shown here, is used to
produce fresh cheeses from whey, Ricotta
such as Ricotta.
A soft, moist,
fragile whey
cheese.
(See p135).

23

Once firm, the curd lumps are scooped The curds are left to drain slowly. The yield is very low, FRESH cHEESES

into open-weave basket molds. only a few ounces from a gallon of whey.

4 The fragile curds are Feta

turned over once in the Dense, creamy, and crumbly in texture,
basket and when it is preserved in brine, giving it a salty
removed will bear the taste and texture. (See pp.258–59).
imprint of the mold.

How to enjoy cookED Fresh cheeses are at their best 11
when melted or baked in classic dishes, Mozzarella
UncookED The microscopic fat globules such as Feta in spanokopitta, Ricotta in
trapped in fresh cheeses absorb and ravioli, or Mozzarella on pizza. However, Because the fresh curd is placed in hot
concentrate the flavors of the other their high moisture content and loose water, this cheese is very elastic and can be
ingredients, transforming the simplest texture means they fall apart in sauces stretched and formed into different shapes.
dishes into classics like Feta in a Greek and become tough when broiled too long. (See pp120–21).
salad, cream cheese with smoked salmon or
Mascarpone in tiramasu. consequently, WiTH DRinkS With their high acidity, Mascarpone
fresh cheese is used to add texture to a fresh cheeses are best with crisp, white
recipe rather than to give it additional wines or cider. For a non-alcoholic Sweet in flavor, it
flavor. Fresh cheeses destined for the alternative try apple juice or elderflower is made by
cheeseboard are often decorated, rolled, cordial. However, when fresh cheeses are heating cream
or dusted in ash, herbs, or spices to combined with other ingredients choose a rather than milk.
enhance their appearance and flavor. wine that complements the more (See p122).
dominant flavors.

Aged Fresh Cheeses CLOCHETTE

THIN, WRINKLED RIND ∙ GRAINY TO CREAMY ∙ WHITE, GRAY, AND BLUE MOLD

As the name implies, these are fresh cheeses that have been allowed to age and
dry out in special temperature- and humidity-controlled caves or cellars, where
a multitude of molds and yeasts are encouraged to grow on the rind. The best-
known are made in the Loire in France; they are the small rounds, pyramids,
cones, bells, and logs you see in small, straw-lined, wooden boxes on rickety
tables in French markets, but are increasingly made around the world.
These creamy and aromatic cheeses are mostly goat’s cheeses and often
covered in ash, herbs, or spices, or wrapped in vine or chestnut leaves over
which the molds grow. When made with cow’s or ewe’s milk the texture is
softer, the molds less aggressive, and the taste creamier and sweeter.

UNDERsTANDING CHEEsE Defining Features MOISTURE They
lose moisture and
Their distinctive thin, wrinkled rinds are coated shrink as they age.
with a myriad of molds and yeasts (the most After about four
dominant of which are splashes of steely gray weeks 50 percent of
or blue molds called Penicillium glaucum) and their original weight
dusted with a thin layer of Penicillium candidum is lost.
or Geometricium candidum. Thinner cheeses develop
a softer rind with less mold and become almost
runny just beneath the rind. As it ages the cheese
develops a texture some call “claggy”, and coats
the roof of the mouth.

WRINKLES As the cheese matures, wrinkles FAT CONTENT
deepen and the interior becomes flaky. They have a fat
content of 22–23
percent per 3.5oz.

12 RIND The thin
wrinkled rind is
dusted with white
mold and blotches of
gray, and blue.

TEXTURE As the COLOR Since most are AGE It is
cheeses age, the texture made with goat’s milk considered
inside gradually they have a very pale, ripe from
changes from moist, almost white, interior. 10–30 days.
and slightly crumbly to FLAVOR Creamy when
dense, compact, flaky young, it becomes nutty
and brittle. like ground almonds,
and turns intensely
goaty and sharp as the
cheese ages.

How They’re Made 1 Excellent Examples

When left to age naturally, usually in The delicate, pure-white curd is carefully hand Valençay
cool cellars, the protein-rich surface ladled into individual molds and then topped up
of fresh cheese attracts a range of until they are almost overflowing. The weight of A rind of this truncated pyramid is encrusted
natural microflora, each contributing the curd gradually forces the expulsion of with a dusty blue-gray mold. The goat’s milk
to the ripening process. In the hands the excess whey. interior is a bright white. (See p97).
of a competent affineur, they will age
gracefully and be sold at varying stages Clochette
of ripeness depending on the tastes of
the clientèle. each will develop its own This bell-shaped
individual character that is influenced example from France
by the cheesemaker, animals, grazing,
season, and microclimate in which they has a rind that is
are made and ripened. The following is a dusted with a fine
general outline of the stages through white mold.
which these cheeses pass. (See p52).

2 3 Vicky’s Spring Splendour Aged FreSh cheeSeS

Once the level of the curd has dropped, the After a few hours, the cheeses are firm enough This canadian log has a creamy texture
base of each cheese is sprinkled with salt to to retain their shape and are turned out onto that is softer and more
speed up the expulsion of the remaining whey. draining trays. At this stage it is a fresh cheese. yielding just under the
rind. (See p319).

4 5 13

Gradually over the next few days the cheese Within 9–12 days a layer of white Penicillium Ketem
develops a soft, thin almost opaque rind that candidum develops followed by a pale-blue mold
gradually shrinks and becomes wrinkled. that darkens and covers the cheese. Based on French-style
aged fresh cheeses,
How to enjoy sliced, drizzled with olive oil and broiled on Israel’s ketem illustrates the growing
rounds of baguette. To use any other type of popularity of this cheese type. (See p264).
Uncooked The texture and rind of the goat’s cheese is a travesty since you will not
various aged fresh cheeses do not lend get that wonderful nutty, aromatic flavor St. Tola
themselves to spreads or dips but no characteristic of these cheeses when broiled
cheeseboard is truly complete without one or baked. This Irish cheese is produced in a
of these attractive, rustic-looking cheeses. large log shape and
WITh drInkS A crisp, white Sauvignon has a silky,
cooked chèvre Salad is ubiquitous Blanc, Viognier, or rosé is perfect, creamy texture.
throughout France, but is not, as so many especially if it is from the same area as (See p225).
chefs think, simply a “goat’s cheese salad”. the cheese. Alternatively, a light ale or
In fact it is made with an aged fresh cheese, beer brings out the nutty side of the
typically crottin de chavignol (see p54), cheese and the taste of the hops.

Soft White Cheeses CAPRICORN GOAT

VELVETY WHITE RIND ∙ CREAMY INTERIOR ∙ MUSHROOMY TASTE

Camembert de Normandie and Brie de Meaux are the best-known examples
and the inspiration behind the variations produced around the world. Soft
white cheeses typically have a white crust, a slightly grainy to almost
runny texture, and a wonderful aroma of mushrooms. The mildest
cheeses hint of sweet hay and button mushrooms; the strongest
taste like creamy, wild mushroom soup and finish with the peppery
bite of dandelions, and have an earthy aroma reminiscent of cool
cellars and mushrooms warmed in butter. Those made with ewe’s
milk have a subtle sweetness with just a hint of roast lamb or lanolin,
while those made with goat’s milk taste of almonds or even marzipan.

Defining Features

UNDERSTANDINg CHEESE Factory-made varieties tend to have a thick, MOISTURE They have
velvety rind that seems more like a wrapping than a high moisture content,
an integral part of the cheese. In contrast, artisan which keeps fat
examples grow a thinner, white crust that can be content low.
stained with reddish pigments or yellow-gray
blotches of mold. The coat protects the cheese from
drying out and speeds up the ripening process; hence,
they are sometimes called mold-ripened cheeses.

RIND Thin and crusty
with a dusting of white
mold to thick and velvety.

MILK The milk used to make the cheese
determines the color of the interior.

FAT CONTENT They have
a low fat content of 24–
26 percent per 3.5oz; but
75 percent if made with
14 extra cream.

COLOR These cheeses can be
made from cow’s, goat’s, ewe’s,
buffalo’s, and even camel’s milks.
The color varies: stark white
when made from goat’s milk,
butter-yellow when made with
Jersey or Guernsey cow’s milk.

AGE It is considered FLAVOR Depending on TEXTURE Slightly
ripe from 21 days, the milk used, wild chalky when young, it
depending on the size. mushrooms, almonds, softens and becomes
roast lamb, and lanolin creamy when mature.
can all be tasted.

How They’re Made 1 Excellent Examples

to achieve their almost-liquid texture, The floppy, jelly-like curd is gently scooped Brie de Melun
soft white cheeses must retain a high from the vat and put layer upon layer into the
percentage of whey. this means that the round, high-sided hoops, or molds, until full. Like most Bries, Brie de Melun has a strong
curds must be scooped gently into the mushroom flavor, but is less well known than
molds. during this part of the process Brie de Meaux. (see p42).
only the weight of the curd is used to
lightly press out the excess whey. the
surface of the cheese is then enveloped
in a white, velvety Penicillium
candidum coat that is made up of
millions of microscopic mushrooms of
the penicillin family. this is where the
mushroomy aroma and taste originate.

Camembert de Normandie

France’s other famous soft white comes
packed in wooden boxes. ripe examples
have pink or brown-tinged rinds. (see p44).

2 3 soFt White Cheeses

Once firm, the cheese is turned out of the After receiving a sprinkling of salt, they are
molds and a disc is placed on top of each one, moved to a room where the white mold, and
gently pressing out any remaining whey. sometimes others, is introduced.

Sharpham

its buttercup-yellow interior is a result of
the high carotene content of the Jersey
cow’s milk it is made with. (see p195).

4 5 15

The mold is naturally attracted to the After two weeks its velvety white coat has Brillat-Savarin
moist, protein-rich surface, and gradually formed. Colorful molds may appear but most
spreads over the entire the cheese. cheesemakers encourage only the purest white. extra cream added to the milk triples its fat
content to 75 percent per 3.5oz and gives
How to Enjoy with roasted peppers or sweet chutney, but this cheese a wickedly rich feel. (see p42).
cut off the rind around the sides, because
UnCooked these wonderful cheeses it will become dry and a little bitter. Capricorn Goat
are at their very best when served at
room temperature with crusty bread With drinks the French serve cider or one of england’s
and a glass of wine. calvados with Camembert, Chardonnay first soft white
with Brie de Meaux, and Champagne goat cheeses,
Cooked A popular recipe involves with Chaource. As a general rule, goat’s or it has a stark
baking a small soft white cheese in the ewe’s milk variations work very well with white interior
oven for about 15 minutes and scooping similar wines. Alternatively, try a tawny typical of
out the molten interior with chunks of Port with a strong soft white. A hoppy goat’s milk
bread or raw vegetables. these cheeses pale ale (rather than a bitter beer) works cheeses.
also broil well; try it on a croissant layered with the milder, sweeter cheeses. (see p175).

Semi-Soft Cheeses

thin and drY tO Orange and sticKY rind ∙ MiLd tO Pungent ∙ ruBBerY tO runnY

semi-soft cheeses vary in appearance and texture more than any other laNgRES
cheese type, but can be divided into two styles. dry rind cheeses ripen
slowly and range from springy, mild, sweet, and nutty with barely formed
rinds, to rubbery, floral, and pungent with thick leathery rinds. When
made with goat’s milk, they are mild and nutty, with a hint of marzipan.
those with a sticky orange rind are called washed-rind cheeses and are
softer and have a pungent, savory, farm-yardy, smoky, and even meaty
taste and aroma. they tend to be grainy, with a softening just under
the rind when young, and become soft and supple with age. the
washed-rind type includes those known as trappist or monastery-style.

understanding cheese Defining Features FlavOR Depending on
the rind, some are buttery
all semi-soft cheeses are washed in brine to and mellow, while others
discourage unwanted molds. dry rind types are smoky and meaty.
develop anything from a thin, relatively bland-
looking rind, to a colorful coat of gray mold FaT CONTENT
splashed with red, yellow, and white molds, over They have a fat
a pinkish leathery rind. Washed-rind examples content of 22–30
that are regularly treated with brine have wet, percent per 3.5oz.
sticky, pale orange to russet-red rinds. the
more they are washed, the
softer, stickier, and
smellier the rind.

lIQUID Some washed-rind cheeses are
almost liquid when ripe.

RIND They vary from barely
formed to a thick, leathery
gray coat, or one that is shiny,
16 sticky, and orange.

agE It is considered TEXTURE Both dry and MOISTURE
ripe from three washed-rind cheeses soften They retain a lot of
weeks greatly. The texture of semi-soft moisture as they are
to three months. cheeses ranges from rubbery and only lightly pressed,
elastic to supple or even runny. if at all. Washing
COlOR The interior can vary seals the rind and
from a pale straw color to also locks in moisture.
creamy yellow in color.

How They’re Made Excellent Examples

semi-soft cheeses are washed in 1 Taleggio
numerous ways, each creating a different
style of rind. those soaked in brine for a Rennet is added to the milk to coagulate it. the fine, dry rind,
few hours or days and then left to dry Along with the starter culture, this separates the feels gritty and
out develop a pale, barely formed to thin curds from the whey. has patches of
pink-tinged leathery rind. splashing or gray and white
spraying the cheese creates a thin, sticky, molds. A stamp
pale orange rind, like the stinking Bishop of quality and
example shown here, but they become authenticity marks its
stickier and brighter with more frequent rind. (see pp138–39).
washing. those dipped in, or wiped with,
brine by hand are called smear-ripened. Stinking Bishop

this washed-rind cheese is
splashed or rubbed in
brine mixed with perry.
it is named after the
pear variety
used to make
the perry.
(see p198).

2 3 semi-soft cheeses

Perforated molds let the whey drain from Once removed from its mold, it is bound with
the curd, although some semi-soft cheeses may a thin strip of wood and hand washed with a
be lightly pressed. mix of brine and perry (or fermented pear juice).

Langres

frequent washing and ripening in very
humid cellars creates the bright color. the
rind shrinks and wrinkles as it ages, and
can also be finely dusted with mold.
(see p63).

4 5 17

Any white mold that grows is knocked out The final cheese develops a thin, sticky golden Edam
by the washing process and, after five to six rind, and the texture is so soft that it literally
weeks, the rind becomes very soft. oozes out when it is cut. edam is a washed-curd cheese (see p19)
and has a sweet flavor, a rubbery texture,
How to Enjoy they are baked whole, they become and a very thin, barely formed rind dipped
sweeter and more savory, which makes in a protective coat of red wax. (see p230).
Uncooked mild semi-soft cheeses such them an amazing starter.
as edam or havarti are classic breakfast Vacherin Mont d’Or
cheeses, while the stronger varieties are With drinks the milder cheeses need
essential on any cheeseboard. a chardonnay, a light red like merlot, or the thick rind of
beer, but more acidic wines will make the this cheese
cooked the dry rind cheeses are cheese taste sour. the pungent washed- protects the
superb when broiled since their rubbery rind cheeses are superb with beers, ciders, moisture in
texture stretches but holds its shape— and sweeter grape varieties such as the interior,
but for the same reason they do not work riesling or Gewürztraminer. these wines and as a result
well in sauces. Washed-rind cheeses, highlight the fruity, sweet meadow-flower the interior is
however, melt superbly in sauces, character that is usually hidden beneath a runny liquid.
although a little goes a long way. When their farm-yardy aroma and taste. (see p245).

Hard Cheeses MANCHEGO

rOugh Or POLished rind ∙ cruMBLY tO BrittLe ∙ cOMPLeX FLaVOrs

the large wheels, cylinders, and drums of hard cheese found in all traditional
cheesemaking countries are typically made with cow’s, goat’s, or ewe’s milks.
their rinds range across the spectrum from smooth with polished rinds to
rough and pockmarked like the moon’s surface. Flavors grow complex as
they mature; very old hard cheeses such as Parmigiano-reggiano and
dry Jack become granular, giving the cheese a crunchy feel in the mouth.
classic ewe’s milk hard cheeses, such as Manchego and Pecorino, have a
dense, slightly grainy texture with an oily-yet-dry feel in the mouth, a
characteristic sweet, caramelized onion flavor, and an aroma reminiscent of
roast lamb or wet wool. hard goat’s milk cheeses have a subtle almond taste.

understanding cheese Defining Features FLAVOR When young
they are slightly sharp or
hard cheeses can vary greatly in appearance. buttery; with age they
traditional hard British cheeses are clothbound dry out and the intensity
drums or tall cylinders. the dutch and swiss tend increases, becoming
to make large boulders or wheels with polished or fruity and tangy.
waxed rinds. spanish cheeses usually bear the
imprint of plaited reeds or the wooden molds in
which they were drained. Producers in France and
italy make hundreds of different hard cheeses,
from smooth barrel-shaped Pecorino to
enormous wheels of Beaufort,
with its thin, tough rind.

BUBBLES The holes in Swiss-style cheeses are
formed by gas bubbles created when the
cheese is moved to a warm room for secondary
ripening, activating the starter culture.

COLOR This varies
with the seasons—
18 pale when animals

are hay-fed in winter,
but brighter yellows
come with fresh
summer grazing.

MOISTURE The amount of whey TEXTURE This FAT CONTENT AGE RIND
expelled determines the texture. category ranges from They have a fat Considered This varies
The more moisture removed, the textures that are content of 28–34 ripe from a enormously
longer the maturation, and more creamy, to flexible, percent per 3.5oz. few weeks from thin and
complex the final flavors. through to brittle. old to leathery to very
three years. hard and thick.
Some types are
waxed, polished
or bound in cloth.

How They’re Made Excellent Examples

hard cheeses fall into one of two categories. 1 Manchego
Pressed uncooked cheeses are lightly
pressed for a few hours and eaten from After the coagulation process, the cheese the interior has tiny
one week old when still mild and springy. curd is sliced using different-sized giant combs eyeholes, and an oily
cooked and pressed cheeses are heated with knife-sharp wires. sheen typical of
in the whey and then pressed. different hard ewe’s milk
temperatures give various results. other cheeses. the
methods include milling the curds wooden board on
between cutting and pressing to expel which it is drained
extra whey and create a finer texture; makes the ridges on the
soaking in brine to achieve a thick rind; base. (see pp162–63).
or washing the curds in hot water to
scald them, creating a supple texture. Emmentaler

the milk is heated
to 129°F (54°c),
a process known
as thermizing,
resulting in sweet,
fruity flavors and
an elastic texture.
(see p242–43).

23

When making washed-curd cheeses such Some cheeses, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano,

as Gouda, hot water is added to the vat of curd, are placed in brine baths for up to 21 days, hard cheeses

which gives the cheese a sweeter taste. where the salt draws out more of the whey.

Grana Padano

curds cut into rice-sized pieces give this
cheese a brittle texture. it has a thick, hard
rind from soaking in brine for 21 days and
tastes sweet, like ripe pineapple. (see p119).

4 5 Cheddar 19

Pressing is often carried out by hand. The To prevent moisture loss as they ripen, some cheddar curds are cooked at 104°F (40°c),
pressure is gradually increased to avoid cheeses are sealed with wax, wrapped in cloth, or then milled before being pressed to create a
loosing too much whey too quickly. sometimes rubbed with lard. smooth, very creamy, texture
and a savory, raw-onion
tang. (see
pp180–181).

How to Enjoy melt completely, while very hard cheeses Mimolette
such as Parmigiano-reggiano simply
Uncooked the most versatile of any dissolve, adding a subtle taste but not this cheese has a dry crust that is often
cheese type, hard cheeses are ideal for texture; both these styles are excellent attacked by harmless cheese mites, creating
cheeseboards. they can also be shaved or when added to sauces, pasta, and soups. a rind like a rusty cannonball. (see p68).
grated into salads, dips, and dressings, for
instance Parmigiano-reggiano in pesto. With drinks their high fat content
and stronger, more intense taste marries
cooked hard cheeses play an integral best with red wines. they absorb the
role in the culinary history of the country rough edges of young wines or soften
where they are made. thermized cheeses the tannin in wines such as cabernet
(see emmentaler, right) such as Gruyère sauvignon or Barolo. White wines bring
and Beaufort become stretchy when out the fruitier nature of the cheese, while
heated, making them perfect for broiling beer and cider, with their natural acidity,
or fondues rather than in sauces. others make equally good companions.

Blue Cheeses STILTON

STICKY TO CRUSTY RIND ∙ STREAKED WITH BLUE MOLD ∙ SPICY TANG

Blue molds are members of the penicillin family but, unlike white molds,
they grow inside a cheese. They create a seemingly endless array of
wonderful cheeses from dense, buttery Stilton to sweet Gorgonzola with
its luscious, gooey texture and spicy tang. Ewe’s milk blue cheeses
such as Roquefort retain the sweet, burnt-caramel taste of the
milk that offsets the sharp, salty, steely blue finish. Most
European blues are wrapped in tin foil, ensuring their rinds
remain damp and sticky and develop a multitude of molds layered
on them, while traditional British blues have rough, dry, crusty,
orange-brown rinds, often splashed with blue and gray molds.

Defining Features

UNDERSTANDING CHEESE There is extraordinary variety in taste and FLAVOR Some are creamy
texture, but blues all have a spicy, slightly and mellow, others are sweeter,
metallic tang, often taste saltier than other and more herbaceous, while
cheeses, and attract a rainbow of colorful high acid, high moisture blues
molds that exude a powerful aroma. The are often gritty and have a
moist interiors of wet rind blues develop salty finish.
wide uneven streaks and pockets of blue,
whereas dry rind blues have a dense, FAT CONTENT
compact texture that develops thinner, They typically
longer streaks and looks like shattered have a fat
porcelain when cut. There are also soft content of 28–34
white blues, which have white rinds and percent per
patches of blue. 3.5oz.

STREAKS Erratic lines and intense pockets of
mold typify these cheeses.

COLOR There are
various strains of blue
mold, each of which
give the cheese its own

20 distinct appearance.

RIND This ranges from
wet with gray, blue, and
white molds, to dry,
rough, and crusty.

TEXTURE Blues vary greatly in MOISTURE Most blues AGE Usually
texture; they can range from dense have a moist interior, considered ripe
and compact to creamy and sticky. which encourages the mold from 1–6 months.
to develop.

How They’re Made Excellent Examples

Cheeses were once ripened in caves, 1 Stilton
stone cellars, or barns, which were
havens for blue molds in particular. they Along with the starter culture, penicillin mold this cheese has the dry rind typical of many
made their way into the warm interior is added to the warm milk or sometimes, as British blue cheeses. the dense buttery
through cracks in the rind and grew in shown here, to the freshly formed curd. interior forces the blue mold to develop as
the gaps in the fresh curd. today, the thin broken streaks. (See pp192–193).
blue mold is added to the milk in powder
form, then the young cheese is pierced to
allow air to enter and the mold to turn
blue. Soft white cheeses must be injected
with molds, as they are too creamy and
dense for the mold to spread naturally.

2 3 Roquefort

Blue cheeses are never pressed. The curd After two or three weeks, the sides of most the famous ewe’s milk blue has a loose,
must remain loosely packed, leaving space for types of blue cheese are scraped smooth to cover moist interior, allowing Penicillium
the blue mold to grow and spread. any cracks before being rubbed with salt. roqueforti to grow en masse as thin streaks
and large scattered pockets. (See pp82–83).
BLUE CHEESES

45 Gorgonzola 21

After a few weeks the young cheese is pierced To check the texture and the even spread of thick, blue-green streaks and scattered
with rods to create tunnels in the curd. Exposed the blue mold, a grader will remove a plug of patches fill the interior. its thin wet, sticky
to air, the blue mold flourishes in these gaps. cheese with a cheese “iron” and then replace it. rind, finely dusted with mold, typifies
traditional European blues. (See pp110–11).

How to Enjoy classics like celery and Stilton soup; pasta Bavaria Blu
with pinenuts and Gorgonzola; or grilled
UnCOOkEd Blue cheeses are essential on steak with blue cheese sauce. this is a soft white-style blue. Pockets
any cheese platter and, with the exception (rather than streaks) of blue result from
of the brie-style blues, also add another WitH drinkS try a vintage or late- injecting blue mold directly into this
dimension to salads especially when bottled-vintage (LBV) Port rather than creamy, dense cheese. (See p236).
crumbled over flageolet beans, walnuts, the sweeter, less complex tawny or ruby
and peppery arugula dressed with a honey Ports, as they tend to overpower the
vinaigrette. Walnut bread is especially good majority of blue cheeses. if Port is not to
with blue cheeses, and a drizzle of honey your taste, a sweet or dry riesling can
brings out the subtlety of the cheese. make a perfect partner. Match the dessert
wine Sauternes only with the very sharp,
COOkEd Stir small amounts into pasta, salty, steely blues, such as roquefort, with
soups, and sauces to elevate dishes into its sweet undertones.

Flavor-added Cheeses

COLORFUL AND EXOTIC RINDS ∙ HARD OR SEMI-SOFT ∙ SAVORY OR SWEET

With their bright colors, the vast array of flavor-added cheeses HEREFORD HOP Its rind is
stands out on deli counters across the world. Smoked cheeses have encrusted with toasted hops
existed since humans learned to make hard cheeses and stored them
near their wood fires, while in the 16th century, Dutch cheesemakers
were quick to incorporate the exotic spices brought back from the
East Indies into Edam and Gouda, producing a tantalizing mélange
of flavors. Today, most flavor-added cheeses are well-known hard or
semi-soft cheeses combined with fruit, spices, and herbs.

Defining Features A fine gray-white mold
grows across the cheese,
Flavor-added cheeses can be divided into four emphasizing the nettles.
distinct types. Natural smoked cheeses have a
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE golden brown to caramel-colored rind but the Yarg Cornish
internal color is not affected. Traditional-style Cheese
examples (based on the original Dutch method
where the ingredients are matured with the fresh Probably the best-known
curds) absorb and intensify the aroma and essence British example of a
of the added ingredients. Rind-flavored cheeses rind-flavored cheese,
have various ingredients, such as vine leaves, its elegant rind of
toasted hops, or grape-must, pressed into the rind. interwoven forest-green
The majority, however, are re-formed cheeses, nettles imparts a subtle
where a young cheese is broken up, blended with flavor. (See pp200–201).
added ingredients, then re-formed.
One of only a
Wensleydale with Cranberries few cheeses with
nuts added.
The most successful re-formed flavor-added
cheeses blend young, low-acid cheeses with Taramundi
sweet, dried fruit. Here, the young hard
cheese Wensleydale has been crumbled up This traditional-style
with cranberries. (See Wensleydale, p204). Spanish cheese has a
semi-soft texture and
22 is made by adding local
crushed walnuts
and hazelnuts.
(See p164).

After pressing,
the re-formed
cheese is softer than
the original.

How to Enjoy unflavored counterparts when cooked and How They’re Made
can add character to basics like baked
Uncooked The choice of flavors to potatoes or pasta—smoked cheeses work Smoked cheeses are matured over
add to cheese is limited only by the especially well for this. Additional ideas natural fires. Traditional flavor-added
imagination of the cheesemaker. can be found under the entries for cheeses are made by adding the flavor
Flavor-added cheeses with dried fruit are individual cheeses. ingredients to the curd of semi-soft and
typical served in place of dessert, while hard cheeses. Rind-flavored cheeses are
only those with garlic, herbs, chives or WiTh dRinkS Beers nicely complement covered with the flavor ingredient after
that are smoked work in salads. Weird savory-flavored cheeses with onion, the cheese has been pressed. Re-formed
combinations such as those with chocolate, chives, garlic, oak smoke, and chiles, cheeses are made by breaking up the
pickles, or fruitcake are curiosities best while the sweet dessert cheeses are curd of a young hard cheese, blending it
left to those who enjoy experimenting better with cider or chardonnay. The with different flavors, then re-forming
with unconventional flavors. tannin and red berry flavor of red and pressing it.
wines tends to clash with all but the
cooked Traditionally-made semi-soft hard cheeses like cheddar with garlic Herbs & Garlic
or hard flavored cheeses behave like their or Gouda with peppercorns.
Fresh herbs can
Nagelkaas means “nail cheese.” deteriorate within
This refers to the shape of the cloves a cheese’s damp
studded in its interior. interior, so they
are mostly
Nagelkaas used dried. FLAVoR-Added cheeSeS
examples
This traditional-style include sage,
flavor-added cheese from the nettles, basil,
netherlands is based rosemary, and
on a Gouda recipe and uses lavender. Garlic and
cloves. The orange color chives are also popular.
comes from adding annatto
(a natural dye derived from Nuts
the Bixa orellana seed),
and provides an attractive nuts are not commonly
contrast to the dark cloves. used, but walnuts are
(See p231). sometimes added to
fresh cheeses because
Wonderful smoky they have a high acidity
bacon taste, and and ripen quickly.
nut-brown rind.

Idiazabal Spices 23

A great example of a natural cumin, caraway seeds, black
smoked cheese, idiazabal was or red peppercorns, paprika,
traditionally stored in the rafters and cloves are widely used as
of shepherds’ huts in northern they make natural partners
Spain, where the young cheeses with the savory tang of
would absorb the smoke from hard cheeses.
the wood fires. Today, they are
cold-smoked in special
rooms over a few days.
(See p157).

Dried Fruit

Adding fruit is a
modern trend. The
most popular are
candied citrus, dried
berries, apple flakes,
figs, and apricots.

The Perfect Cheeseboard aCCoMPaNIMeNTS
Grilled vegetables, dried fruit, apples,
there are no hard and fast rules to determining a cheese category and toasted walnuts work well with
or type, but some guidance can enable you to create an amazing and almost all cheeses.
memorable cheeseboard. if you’re having your cheeseboard with a Celery and grapes can be enjoyed with
meal, make sure you enjoy it after the main meal but before dessert. blues and strong hard cheeses.
Crusty or fruity bread, rather than
The baSICS flavor-added crackers, allow you to experience the texture
Yarg Cornish Cheese
buy the cheeses as near to the time pp200–201 and feel of the cheeses in your mouth.
you want to eat them as possible—they
will not improve in a refrigerator. QUINCe

Shop somewhere that encourages
you to taste before purchasing.

Support your local cheesemakers. SeMI-SofT
Taleggio pp138–139
Search for medal winners and
the aOc, dOc, or PdO label on
european cheeses.

remove cheeses from the refrigerator
at least an hour before serving so that
they come to room temperature.

understanding cheese The board

an elegant wooden board, chunk of
driftwood, or wicker basket lined with
linen cloth gives the cheese a fresh and
natural appearance.

Slate looks great; marble or granite is
marvelous, but is often very heavy!

decorate the board with some wild
flowers, herbs, or seasonal leaves.

alternatively, prepare individual
plates with small chunks and wedges
of cheese.

24

aGed freSh
Sainte-Maure de
Touraine pp92–93

drIed fIGS

THE CHEESES Offer diversity by choosing cheeses with THE WInE
different textures. Use the classifications on
One superb large cheese is better than pages 10–23 to give you an idea of the range the union of cheese and wine has
three or four small wedges, which can be in of textures available. moved writers to fill endless columns
danger of drying out quickly. with riveting descriptions of
For variety of flavor, provide at least one distinguished or disreputable
Color and shape should come from an goat’s or sheep’s milk cheese, rather than marriages, but there really is no right
interesting combination of cheeses, not from relying only on cow’s milk cheeses. or wrong. some combinations simply
the garnishes. make the senses buzz while others
Pre-cut a couple of wedges to show guests definitely do not.
Allow around 2oz (55g) of each cheese how it’s done. You could remove the rind
per person. from blue or hard cheeses to keep anyone Fresh, Aged Fresh, and Soft White
from cutting across the wedge instead of into cheeses prefer dry, crisp fruity wines
HArd smaller wedges. and ciders that won’t dominate.
Berkswell p173 Semi-soft cheeses, especially washed
rind, need a feisty, aromatic white or
SOFT WHITE eau de vie to pair with their sweetness.
Camembert de Hard cheeses pair well with red wines.
Normandie p44 the harder and darker the cheese, the
heavier, richer, and redder the wine.
Blue cheeses work superbly with the perfect cheeseboard
sweet pudding wines or aromatic
whites. the sweetness cuts through the
sharpness of the cheese.
Flavor-added cheeses work
with different types of wines; it

really depends on what flavor
has been added.

BLUE
Valdeón p166

FrESH 25
Innes Button p184

northern ENGLISH CHANNEL
France

France

Key

★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses

Produced only here
Produced throughout the region

Deauville haute-
Pont-l’Evêque ★ normandie
Cœur de Neufchâtel ★

Basse-normandie Livarot ★

Brillat-Savarin,
Camembert de Normandie ★,
Deauville,
Livarot ★,
Lucullus,
Pavé d’Auge
north oF France

Bretagne

Pays de La Loire
Buchette Pont d’Yeu,
Curé Nantais ,
Embruns aux Algues,
Tréfle

Brebis du Lochois,
Brossauthym

bAy of bISCAy

n

100 miles

100 km

Sablé de Wissant Abbaye du Mont des Cats ★ the history of cheese is entwined with the history of france.
Boulette d’Avesnes Crayeux de Roncq it crosses the path of historical figures, blends with the role of
religion, and participates in the evolution of science. during
Nord-Pas-de-calais the german occupation, Winston churchill emphasized the
Bergues ★, importance of cheese in france, stating that, “a country
Boulette de Cambrai, producing almost 360 varieties of cheese cannot die.”
Dauphin,
Forme d’Antoine, today, a huge variety of cheeses represent the creativity
Fruité du Boulonnais, of france, which until recently was not matched elsewhere.
Maroilles ★, following President Nicolas sarkozy’s proposal to award
Mimolette, french cuisine and gastronomy the uNesco “heritage of
Pavé du Nord, humanity” status, the world-famous cheese house, androuët,
Vieux-Boulogne, argued in support of the cultural value of cheese during June
Vieux-Lille 2008 in the french senate.

Picardie
Baguette Laonnaise,
Rollot

Coulommiers,
Gratte-Paille,
Pierre-Robert

Saint-Jacques Île-de-fraNce chamPagNe-ardeNNe lorraiNe
Brie de Meaux ★, Carré de l’Est, Carré de l’Est,
Brie de Melun ★, Epoisses de Bourgogne ★ Munster ★
Brie de Nangis,
Fougerus, alsace
Lucullus Munster ★

Chaource ★

Saint-Florentin Langres ★

ceNtre Cendré de Vergy, Cendré de Vergy,
Berrichon ★, Soumaintrain Palet de Bourgogne
Cœur de Touraine,
Crottin de Chavignol ★, Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire Abbaye de Cîteaux
Feuille de Dreux,
Olivet, BourgogNe Ami du Chambertin, fraNche-comtÉ
Pavé Blésois, Bouton-de-Culotte, Plaisir au Chablis, Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura ★,
Pithiviers, Brillat-Savarin, Soumaintrain Comté ★,
Pouligny-Saint-Pierre ★, Charolais, Mont d’Or ★,
Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★, Dôme de Cabasses, Morbier ★
Selles-sur-Cher ★,
Valencay ★ Epoisses de Bourgogne ★,
Mâconnais ★,
Morvan,
Racotin

Bonde de Gâtine

bay of biscay Capri Lezeen Limousin auveRgne
Poitou-ChaRentes Ventadour
Chabichou du Poitou ★, Bleu d’Auvergne ★,
Mothais-sur-Feuille, Bleu des Causses ★,
Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★, Bleu de Chèvre,
Taupinette Charentaise, Brique du Forez,
Tomme de Chèvre des Charentes, Cantal ★,
Trois Cornes de Vendée Crémeux du Puy,
Fourme d’Ambert ★,
Clochette Gaperon,
Pavin,
Cendré de Niort Saint-Nectaire ★
Trappe d’Echourgnac
Lavort

Selles-sur-Cher

Fouchtra

Laguiole ★

south of fRanCe

Saint-Christophe

aquitaine Délice des Cabasses,
Ardi-Gasna, Lou Rocaillou,
Ossau-Iraty ★, Lou Sotch,
Rocamadour ★ Pérail

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc midi-PyRÉnÉes Bouyguette des Collines,
Bleu de Chèvre, Lingot de la Ginestarie,
Figuette, Pavé de la Ginestarie,
Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées, Pechegos
Roquefort ★, Saint-Nicolas-
Rouelle du Tarn, de-la-Dalmerie
Tomme Caprine des Pyrénées
LanguedoC-
Bethmale RoussiLLon
Cabri Ariégeois Cathare,
Pélardon ★

andoRRa

RhÔne-Alpes fRAnce

Abondance ★, south of
Arômes au Gêne de Marc, fRAnce
Banon ★, Tomme de Chartreux
Key
Banon aux Baies Roses ★,
Banon à la Sarriette, ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Beaufort ★,
Bleu de Chèvre, Emmental de Savoie Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
Bleu de Termignon,
Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage ★, coRse
Comté ★,
Fourme de Montbrison ★, Abbaye de Tamié, lIguRIAN SEA
Persillé de Tignes, Signal
U Bel Fiuritu
Picodon ★, Saint-Félicien coRse
Raclette de Savoie, A Casinca,
Reblochon de Savoie ★, A Filetta,
Rigotte de Condrieu ★, Brocciu
Saint-Marcellin, Fleur du
Saint-Nectaire ★, Maquis ★,
Sarments d’Amour, Fium’Orbu,
Tarentais, Pot Corse,
Tome des Bauges ★, Tomme de
Tomme aux Herbes, Brebis Corse,
Tomme de Savoie, U Pecurinu,
Tommette Brebis de Alpes, Venaco
Tommette de Chèvre des Bauges

pRovence-Alpes-cÔte d’AzuR MonAco TyRRhENIAN SEA
Rove Cendré,
Roves des Garrigues, MEDITERRANEAN SEA
Saint-Domnin,
Tétoun de Santa Agata,
Tomme à l’Ancienne,
Truffe de Valensole

golfE Du lIoN

n

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

100 miles
100 km

france

France Abbaye de Cîteaux Abbaye du Mont Abbaye Notre-Dame
des Cats de Belloc
The abbey of St. nicolas de citeaux
was founded 900 years ago, but it was Produced since 1890 by monks at the This rich, fermier cheese, made from
only in 1925 that the resident Trappist abbey of Saint-Marie-du-Mont in the milk of a local red-nosed breed of
monks began to make this delicious northern France, Mont des cats is a ewes, is one of the last few “abbaye” or
and exclusive cheese. It is rarely found semi-soft, washed cheese made from Trappist cheeses produced by monks at
outside the region because only 60 tons the milk of cows from neighboring an abbey in the traditional way.
of it are made each year from the milk farms.
of 70 Montbéliarde cows. TaSTInG nOTeS Its long aging period
TaSTInG nOTeS This sweet, smooth, and TaSTInG nOTeS The thin, leathery, orange gives it a very rich taste, with a
creamy cheese with a grayish-yellow rind covers a pale yellow, supple, elastic pronounced caramel-like, fruity flavor.
rind is worth seeking out. It is interior. The cheese melts in the mouth Beneath its crusty, grayish-brown rind,
relatively mild compared with other with a subtle, yet pronounced, milky the paste is firm yet supple and softer
washed rind, Trappist-style cheeses. flavor and the rustic aroma of hay. than most other ewe’s milk Basque
HOW TO enJOY It is delicious served with cheeses, with a surprisingly mild scent.
fruity and light red wines, such as a HOW TO enJOY It is delicious washed
Beaujolais or a Bourgogne. down with beer or a light, fruity HOW TO enJOY avoid strong red wines
wine, such as a Loire red or a dry that might mask the flavor; try sweet
white cadet. whites, such as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh.

FRANCE Dijon, Bourgogne FRANCE Godewaersvelde, Nord FRANCE Urt, Aquitaine
Pas-de-Calais Age Best around 6 months
Age 2 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 12lb (5.5kg), round
Weight and Shape 4lb 6oz (2kg), round Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄2in (8.5cm)
Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), round Size D. 10in (25cm), 11⁄2in (H. 3.5cm) Milk Ewe
Milk Cow Classification Hard
30 Size D. 7in (18cm), 11⁄2in (H. 4cm) Classification Semi-soft Producer Abbaye de Belloc
Milk Cow Producer Abbaye du Mont des Cats

Classification Semi-soft

Producer Abbey of St Nicolas de Cîteaux

Abbaye de la Abbaye de Tamié Abondance AOC france
Pierre-qui-Vire
at the abbaye of Tamié, in the Savoie aOc-protected since 1990, this
This Benedictine abbey in the Yonne mountains, the incumbent monks hard cheese is produced by various
region was founded in 1850 by a priest produce a cheese that is similar to the cheesemakers using milk from three
named Dom Muard. Since 1920, it has well-known reblochon but not as breeds of native cows, which are
also become known for its delicious, strong. The finished product is sold renowned for their excellent milk:
semi-soft, washed cheese. It is similar wrapped in blue paper decorated with Montbéliardes, Tarines, and
to epoisses, and is made from the milk the white cross of Malta. abondance. To sustain the quality and
of the monks’ herd of 40 cows. TaSTInG nOTeS This semi-soft, washed flavor of the milk, the cattle are not fed
cheese has an orange-coloured, thin silage or any other fermented fodder.
TaSTInG nOTeS The brick-red rind covers leathery crust, supple, springy texture; TaSTInG nOTeS This strong-smelling
a soft, smooth, and supple cheese that and a mild, sweet, milky taste. cheese has an immediate subtle taste
has a distinct country taste and HOW TO enJOY This elegant, subtly that can be light or full flavored,
a strong aroma. flavored cheese stands proudly on a depending on the season and producer.
cheeseboard, served with a light and HOW TO enJOY Pair this smooth and
HOW TO enJOY as part of a cheeseboard fruity red, white or rosé Savoie wine, supple cheese with a local white wine,
or mix into mashed potatoes. Serve such as an apremont or Mondeuse. preferably a dry one, or a Beaujolais.
with any lively, full-bodied red
Burgundy, such as Beaune.

FRANCE Saint-Léger-Vauban, Bourgogne FRANCE Savoie, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 31
Age 6–10 weeks Age 1–2 months Age Best around 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), round Weight and Shape 11–33lb (5kg–15kg),
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) wheel
Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 14–18in (40–46cm), H. 3–4in
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft (7.5–10cm)
Producer Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire Producer Abbaye de Tamié Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

A Casinca A Filetta Ami du Chambertin

robust, almost wild, corsican goats The name reflects the roots of this raymond Gaugry created this artisan
roam freely over vast landscapes, artisanal cheese; a filetta means cheese in 1950 as an accompaniment to
infusing their milk with various “fern” in the corsican language. as an the famous wine, Gevry chambertin,
natural aromas. The hand-moulded added reminder of its provenance, this that is made close by. although the
delight a casinca is one of the best semi-soft cheese is most often produced cheese is made in a modern creamery,
washed-rind cheeses that they produce. decorated with a fern leaf on top. much of the work is done by hand.

France TaSTInG nOTeS although it has a TaSTInG nOTeS This truly original taste, TaSTInG nOTeS The rind is washed with
pronounced taste and a rather strong tinged with fern and the smell of a local Marc de Bourgogne brandy, giving
smell, a casinca is by no means cellar, which can be a bit strong for it an orange color and a powerful taste.
unrefined. aging and the gentle some palates, is definitely worth a try. The paste has a mouth-watering,
climate improve it, creating a unique The grazing is quasi-wilderness, so this creamy texture.
nutty flavor. cheese has more personality and more HOW TO enJOY ami du chambertin is
HOW TO enJOY For an exotic taste, serve natural flavor than many others. best appreciated with a glass of
a casinca with a white wine, such as HOW TO enJOY Perfect served with a fig Gevrey-chambertin or a chassagne
condrieux, which is made from grapes jam, to offset its trademark sharpness, Montrachet—delicious wines that have
grown in sunny climates. and with a corsican red or white wine. a long finish and are very flavorsome.

FRANCE Corse FRANCE Corse FRANCE Brochon, Bourgogne
Age About 6 weeks Age 2 months
Age 1½–4 months Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Milk Ewe Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
32 Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 1in (3cm) Producer Various Producer Gaugry dairy
Milk Goat

Classification Semi-soft

Producer Various

Ardi-Gasna Arômes au Gêne de Baguette Laonnaise france
Marc
ardi-Gasna means “sheep’s cheese” in a distinctive creamery or industrially
the Basque language, so it’s no surprise This fermier cheese is produced produced cheese, Baguette Laonnaise
that this hard cheese comes from the using an ancient method of curing and is usually brick shaped but can also be
milk of ewes grazing on alpine pastures preserving. a ripe cheese is placed in a found resembling a baguette. This
high in the Pyrénées. It can be eaten barrel of marc—the damp skins, pips, feature, and the fact that it is produced
all year round, but the best cheeses are and stalks of pressed grapes—that in the city of Laon, gives the cheese
made using milk from lush spring or slowly permeate the cheese. its name.
summer grazing. TaSTInG nOTeS It has a moist, red,
TaSTInG nOTeS It grows sharper with TaSTInG nOTeS It has a strong and washed rind and a highly pronounced
age, but even the youngest cheeses bittersweet flavor that is distinctly flavor that is similar to those of the
have a sophisticated, nutty taste and a yeasty. as the cheese ages, its texture Maroilles (see p68).
pleasant aroma. evolves from creamy to hard. HOW TO enJOY You can eat this semi-soft
HOW TO enJOY a fruity red wine is the cheese alongside all very full-bodied
perfect match for a young cheese. Pair HOW TO enJOY This cheese is an ideal red wines of substance and character,
sharper ones with full-bodied reds. partner to a light Beaujolais-village or and you could even wash it down with
Serve with jam, honey, or walnuts. a sweet dessert wine such as Muscat de a glass of beer.
Beaumes de Venise.

FRANCE Aquitaine FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Picardie 33
Age 2–24 months, best at 5 months Age 1 month Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 10lb (5kg), round Weight and Shape 3–51⁄2oz (85–150g), Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), brick
Size D. 13in (32.5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) disk Size 6in (15cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Milk Ewe Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm), H. 3⁄4–1in (2–3cm) Milk Cow
Classification Hard Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer Various
Producer Various

France Banon AOC Banon aux Baies Banon à la Sarriette
Roses
a speciality of the mountains of The Provençal climate provides perfect
Lure in Provence, this cheese is sold Provence has a history making goat’s growing conditions for some of the most
rustically wrapped in layers of chestnut cheese that can be traced back to the wonderful aromatic flowers and plants,
leaves and bound with raffia. The roman times; some even claim that the such as lavender and thyme, that
Banon has benefited from aOc status “Banon” cheese was enjoyed by the 1st subtly flavor the milk of the grazing
since 2003. century roman emperor, antoninus goats. In this version of the region’s
TaSTInG nOTeS When young, the flavor Pius. This fresh variation is decorated Banon, the herb savory creates yet
is mild and lactic, becoming slightly with pink peppercorns (baies roses), the another layer of flavor.
nutty with age. as the leaves dry, molds dried berries from the Baies rose plant. TaSTInG nOTeS The herb has a strong
develop, the pâte softens and the flavor sharp flavor; its pungency adds
becomes more nutty with a distinct TaSTInG nOTeS The mild, nutty flavor a new dimension to this creamy,
goaty tang. of this cheese is counterpointed by the slightly nutty cheese.
HOW TO enJOY This cheese is a real sweet, distinct anise character of the HOW TO enJOY Serve with an aromatic
pleasure to share with friends. Serve pink peppercorns. wine, such as a Gewürztraminer.
with all fruity and lively red, white,
and rosé Provençal wines. HOW TO enJOY This a beautiful-looking
addition to the cheeseboard can be
served with a fresh rose to decorate.

FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes
Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 2–8 weeks Age 2–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2oz Weight and Shape 3.5–4.5oz, round
(100–125g), round (100–125g), round Size D. 31⁄2in (8cm), H. 1in (2cm)
Size D. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Goat
34 Size D. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Goat Classification Fresh
Classification Fresh Producer Various
Milk Goat Producer Various
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various

Bergues Berrichon Bethmale france

This fermier cheese is named after Since the 16th century, the Sancerre Produced in the Pyrenees, Bethmale
the town in which it originated, and is region has been successfully breeding is one of the region’s best-known cow’s
still produced at Bergues in flandres, goats, which has led to the production milk cheeses and is named after the
around 8 miles from the Belgian of a range of superb goat’s cheeses like village where it is made. It has a royal
border. It is a very popular cheese Berrichon (also known as Sancerrois), seal of approval, too, as it is said to
throughout northern france. a big brother to crottin de chavignol. have been favored by King Louis VI in
TaSTInG nOTeS During the curing stage, TaSTInG nOTeS as it ages the rind the 12th century.
this semi-soft cheese is repeatedly becomes more wrinkled and dusted TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor of Bethmale
washed with brine and beer. This gives with gray and blue molds. The texture differs depending on how it is produced.
it a sharp, distinctive flavor against its also changes from firm and grainy to Industrial varieties are very mild,
supple and elastic texture. dense and compact, with a pronounced while fermier varieties have a more
HOW TO enJOY It can be grated, broiled, tang and a light goaty aroma. pronounced taste.
or baked with vegetable dishes, soups, HOW TO enJOY It is excellent paired with HOW TO enJOY Pair this cheese with all
and pasta, and it is best enjoyed when local dry white wines, such as fruity and robust wines of fitou,
washed down with a chilled beer. Sauvignon or fruity Pinot. corbières, roussillon, Madiran.

FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Centre FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées 35
Age at least 2 months Age 3–5 weeks Age 3–4 months
Weight and Shape 4lb 6oz (2kg), round Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), round Weight and Shape 11lb–15lb (5kg–7kg),
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) round
Milk Cow Milk Goat Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 2–3in
Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh (4.5–7.5cm)
Producer Various Producer Various Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

Bleu d’Auvergne AOC Bleu des Causses AOC Bleu de Chèvre

France named after the province in which it Like roquefort, this cheese is ripened as a blue goat’s cheese, Bleu de chèvre
originated, Bleu d’auvergne has been in natural caves called fleurines in the is a rare thing. Most French blues are
aOc protected since 1975. It is similar limestone plateaus of the causses. Bleu made with cow’s milk and a few, such
to roquefort, but this cheese is made des causses is made with cow’s milk as roquefort, are made using ewe’s
using cow’s rather than ewe’s milk. and is aged longer than most blues. It milk. This cheese is produced on only
TaSTInG nOTeS This blue cheese has a has been aOc protected since 1979. a handful of small farms, mainly in the
very sharp, engaging flavor and is best TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor differs mountains, so it is little-known outside
when made with milk from herds that depending on the season in which it the region.
have grazed the lush summer and fall is produced. Ivory-yellow summer TaSTInG nOTeS Bleu de chèvre is dense
mountain pastures. cheeses are milder than the stronger- with erratic patches of blue. It melts in
HOW TO enJOY This is a delicious addition tasting, white winter cheeses. the mouth with a subtle but herbaceous
to salad dressings or hot pasta dishes, HOW TO enJOY It is excellent in salads tang from the goat’s milk, but is milder
or served with chicory, nuts, and raw and on cheeseboards, and goes well than cow’s and ewe’s milk blues.
mushrooms alongside a robust red or with all lively, well-balanced red wines HOW TO enJOY eat with fresh figs and
sweet white wine. that have an aromatic note, such as a glass of sweet Muscat de Beaume
cornas, Lirac, and Jurançon. de Venise.

FRANCE Cantal, Auvergne FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Auvergne, Rhône-Alpes,
Age 3–6 months Midi-Pyrénées
Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 5lb 3oz–5lb 13oz Age 2 months
(2.3kg–2.6kg), drum Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), round
Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Size D. 7–8in (18–20cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 4in (10cm)
(7.5–10cm) Milk Goat
36 Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Classification Blue
Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Various
Producer Various
Classification Blue

Producer Various

Bleu de Gex Haut- Bleu de Termignon Bleu du Vercors- france
Jura AOC Sassenage AOC
This blue cheese is produced to very
Granted aOc status in 1977, this precise specifications. Just four aOc protected since 1998, this cheese
unusually dense, almost hard, blue producers make it in summer using the is named after the town of Sassenage
cheese is produced in small, traditional milk of cows that graze 4300ft up the where, in the 14th century, subjects
dairies using milk from cows grazing mountain pastures of the french alps. were ordered to pay their taxes in
the pastures of the Jura mountains. The spare, irregular bluing is not the cheese. Unlike most traditional blues, it
result of piercing, but of wild molds is lightly pressed and thinner, which
TaSTInG nOTeS The yeasts and molds in entering through cracks in the rind. gives it a more supple texture.
the mountain grasses and flowers pass TaSTInG nOTeS Beneath the rough,
through the milk into the cheese, crusty, brown-gold rind is a dense, yet TaSTInG nOTeS The rind is thin, leathery,
giving the soft interior a speckled blue crumbly interior with a strong, almost and brown; the paste pale yellow, dense
appearance and a slightly bitter, savory spicy, tang and earthy, refined flavor. yet soft, marked with irregular thick
flavor. eat it after wiping off the white HOW TO enJOY Team this tasty blue streaks and blue patches. Delicate for a
powdery mold covering it. cheese with a glass of chignin blue, it has a slightly bitter aftertaste.
Bergerson or a mellow wine, such as
HOW TO enJOY Serve as the locals do with a Tokay. HOW TO enJOY eat alongside a glass of
boiled potatoes and a fruity, regional robust, lively, Beaujolais-Villages and
red wine—a Beaujolais or Burgundy. côtes-du-rhône-Villages.

FRANCE Franche-Comté FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 37
Age Around 2–3 months Age 4–5 months Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 11lb–13lb 3oz Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg), drum Weight and Shape 11lb–13lb 4oz
(5–6kg). wheel Size D. 11.8in (29cm), H. 6in (15cm) (5–6kg), wheel
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3–4in (7.5–10cm) Milk Cow Size D. 12in (15cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
Milk Cow Classification Blue Milk Cow
Classification Blue Producer Various Classification Blue
Producer Various Producer Various

Beaufort AOC A ClOser lOOk

Of all the great cheeses of the world, Beaufort encapsulates Beaufort has been protected by
everything that is magical, traditional, and truly awesome about the aOc label since 1968, resulting in
cheese, and demonstrates how, in a harsh and rugged terrain, strict control of each stage of
humans have worked alongside Mother nature and adapted to production. This includes the milk
the rhythm and demands of the seasons. used, which is never pasteurized, the
distinct concave shape, and every
aspect of its maturation.

france In the 14th and 15th centuries, the shared the tasks of herding, milking,
local church and landowners of the cheesemaking, and maturing.
Savoie-Beaufortain in the french
alps, instigated a widespread cheese produced in the lush
program to remove much of the summer pastures is known as
woodlands to create mountain Beaufort d’Alpage; those produced
pastures. These pastures—as colorful from a single herd that graze above
and spectacular as a Monet 4,921ft (1,500m) are called chalet
painting—are unploughed and d’Alpage, and are some of the largest
unfenced, and contain the thousands artisan cheeses in the world. Winter
of different species of wild herbs, cheeses, known as Beaufort d’Hiver,
meadow flowers, and grasses that are paler as they are made when the
provide the native abondance, and cows enjoy a more concentrated diet
Tarine cows with fresh grazing in of hay cut from the mountain pasture.
summer, and aromatic hay in winter.
The resulting milk is sweet, nutty, Beaufort is another cheese that is
aromatic, and complex. protected by the aOc label, and can
only be made in an area covering
It takes the milk of about 35 cows approximately 1,112 acres in the
to make one Beaufort cheese. rhône-alpes’ Beaufortain,
Because of this, herdsmen have, Tarentaise, and Maurienne valleys,
since ancient times, combined their as well as a section of the Val d’arly.
milk, forming cooperatives, and
TAsTing nOTes Young Beaufort
is firm but not hard. It melts in the
mouth, and has a rich, sweet,
complex flavor. The chalet d’Alpage
is aged longer and has more honeyed,
aromatic notes and a long, savory
tang that hints of meadow flowers.

38 HOw TO enjOy This is not a A few tiny holes are
cheese to melt over bread or put in a formed during the
The milk only comes from the Tarentaise and sandwich (although both would be
Abondance cows, whose diet is strictly controlled. heaven), and certainly not to be fermentation of the curd.
bought in miserable thin slices!
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes It should be eaten in generous
Age 5–18 months mouthfuls accompanied by a bottle
Weight and Shape 44lb–154lb 3oz of the best Pinot noir you can afford.
(20–70kg), round fresh walnuts, grown throughout the
Size D. 14–271⁄2in (35–75cm) Savoy, also make a great partner.
H. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm) Beaufort’s rich sweetness is also
Milk Cow excellent with champagne, as well as
Classification Hard chardonnay and riesling, but avoid
Producer Various dry whites that take away its flavor.

The cloth rind is rubbed with brine The inward curving sides
enriched with scrapings from old cheeses are a result of the
and whey, creating a grainy, russet crust
that protects the cheese from drying out. beechwood belt that circles
each cheese as it matures.

Coagulation This process
only takes 20–30 minutes. The curds
are then cut and the temperature
raised to both scald the milk and to
squeeze out moisture from the curd.
The curd is piled into cloth and
carefully removed from the cauldron.

exterior france

Pressing The curd is encircled
with a cercle, a belt made of beech,
and pressed for 20 hours. It is turned
regularly during this time.

39

During its long maturation,
small horizontal cracks appear
near the edge, because the rind
dries faster than the interior.

Interior

Bonde de Gâtine Boulette d’Avesnes Boulette de Cambrai

France Produced in the marshy Gâtine area In the past, this fermier cheese was Made by hand in cambrai, near the
of Poitou, the Bonde de Gâtine is made exclusively from buttermilk; Belgium border where it has long been
a high-quality fermier goat’s cheese nowadays, it is made with the fresh popular, this cow’s milk cheese is
that requires two liters of milk to make curds of Maroilles and mashed with a delicious combination of fromage
just one 14oz cheese. It has a thin parsley, tarragon, cloves, and pepper. It frais, tarragon, parsley, chives, and
wrinkled rind, which is dusted with is shaped by hand, dyed with peppery seasoning. Unlike Boulette d’avesnes,
blue, gray, and white molds. annatto, and dusted with paprika. Boulette de cambrai is always
TaSTInG nOTeS The paste has a TaSTInG nOTeS The paprika from the rind consumed fresh.
pronounced acidity and saltiness that gives it a hot peppery bite, while the TaSTInG nOTeS This fresh rindless cheese
melts in the mouth, leaving behind it a semi-soft, ivory-colored paste adds is mildly aromatic and has a deliciously
rich aftertaste. a spicy, herbaceous, and sharp flavor. herby flavor, but it will become bitter if
HOW TO enJOY Team it with a dry and HOW TO enJOY Pair with all strong, very allowed to age for too long.
fruity wine, such as a Sancerre Blanc, full-bodied red wines, such as cahors. HOW TO enJOY Spread on crusty bread
which complements the creamy, acidic, a shot of gin will also bring out its and pair with a light and fruity red
and fruity flavors. unusual combination of flavors. wine, such as Beaujolais.

FRANCE Gâtine, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Flandre-Hainaut, Nord-Pas-de- FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Calais Age 1–5 days
Age 6–10 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 10oz (280g), cone
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), cone Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), drum Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Fresh
40 Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 3in (7cm) Classification Fresh Producer Various
Milk Goat Producer Pont du Loup, Fauquet, and Leduc

Classification Aged fresh

Producer Patrick Cantet

Bouton-de-Culotte Bouyguette des Brebis du Lochois france
Collines
Bouton-de-culotte, or trouser buttons, This modern, french ewe’s milk cheese,
are small Mâconnais that are stored The pale ivory, soft, wrinkled rind of comes from central france (a region
during the fall for winter use. By this hand-formed goat’s cheese is traditionally associated with goats),
winter, the rind becomes dark brown decorated with a sprig of rosemary, where the flock grazes on very good
and hard and this goat’s cheese can be making it a very attractive addition to pastures. cheeses that are dusted with
grated into the local fromage fort. a cheeseboard. Its thin rind means the ash are called cendré Lochois.
TaSTInG nOTeS It has a very distinct paste breaks down very quickly and TaSTInG nOTeS Lochois has a tender and
goaty taste that hints of ground nuts, becomes soft and creamy. generous paste, as well as a smooth
feels dry in the mouth, and has a sharp, buttery flavor and herby aromas. The
tongue-tingling finish. TaSTInG nOTeS Bouyguette des collines beech ashes give it a somewhat smoky
HOW TO enJOY enjoy this cheese with all has a slight taste of thyme and and woody character.
the powerful full-bodied vintages of rosemary. Initially the cheese is smooth, HOW TO enJOY It tastes delicious served
Mâconnais and côte chalonnaise. then, after 20 days of maturing, its with figs and jam, and goes well when
flavor becomes more pronounced. paired with white wines from Touraine,
such as Sancerre or Montlouis.
HOW TO enJOY It is best paired with a dry
white wine, such as Sancerre, riesling
or chinon, but is also good with a rosé.

FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Touraine, Centre 41
Age 2 months Age 2–3 weeks Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), tiny drum Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), oval Weight and Shape 4oz (110g), round
Size D. 2in (5cm) base, 11⁄2in (4cm) top, Size L. 8in (20cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
H. 1.5in (3.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe
Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh
Classification Aged fresh Producer Segalafrom Producer Brebis du Lochois
Producer Various

Brie de Melun AOC Brie de Nangis Brillat-Savarin

Unlike other Bries, the coagulation of Originally made in nangis, south east although named after a renowned
the curd in this cow’s milk cheese is of Paris, this Brie almost disappeared 18th-century gourmand and food
very slow, since it relies mainly on when superseded by Brie de Melun. writer, Brillat-Savarin was in fact
lactic fermentation rather than rennet. However, it has since been revived by a created in the 1930s by Henri
This produces a very thick curd, and single producer in Tournan-en-Brie and androuët, a famous cheesemaker and
eventually, a thick, crusty white rind remains true to the original. It is at its affineur. This triple-cream cheese, with
with red, yellow, and brown pigments best when made from milk from cows a fat content of 75 percent for every
and molds. grazed on spring and summer grass. 3.5oz, is not for the dieter

France TaSTInG nOTe It can be sold fresh, when TaSTInG nOTe Like Brie de Melun, this TaSTInG nOTe When young, it has no rind
it is sour yet sweet, or when fully Brie has a white mold rind and a soft, and a texture like thick crème fraîche;
mature, when it has a very fruity flavor creamy paste. Unlike Brie de Melun, it if eaten once it has developed its thin
and a strong scent of fermentation. has a very fruity, rather than more white coat, the paste will have softened
HOW TO enJOY It can be enjoyed with all savory or meaty flavor. to become luscious, creamy, and soft.
red wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and HOW TO enJOY Pair this Brie with a glass HOW TO enJOY It goes well with all light
côtes-Du-rhône that are lively, of lively, full-bodied Bourgogne, fruity wines, in particular champagnes
full-bodied, and have bouquet. Bordeaux or côtes-du-rhône. with some character.

FRANCE Ile-de-France FRANCE Ile-de-France FRANCE Basse-Normandie, Bourgogne
Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–4 weeks
Age Best around 2 months Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round
Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), wheel Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Classification Soft white
42 Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Producer Rouzaire Producer Lincet
Milk Cow

Classification Soft white

Producer Various

Brique du Forez Brocciu AOC Brossauthym

This traditional cheese from the This famous corsican fresh cheese is This is a unique cheese, because it is france
auvergne region takes its name from made by unusual production processes: thought to be the only ewe’s cheese
its brick-like shape. It is characterised whey is added, rather than discarded, produced in the Loire region. flavored
by a thin white rind that develops a during the process, giving it a unique with thyme, it has a natural rind and
blue-gray hue. It used to be made using taste in addition to some precious oval shape, and it makes a decorative
a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk, but nutrients. It is then drained in small addition to any cheeseboard.
now it is made solely with cow’s milk. rush baskets (canestres). TaSTInG nOTe This fresh cheese is tasty,
TaSTInG nOTeS The white mantle TaSTInG nOTe fresh Brocciu is mild thyme-flavored and has a mellow,
smells mushroomy and sharp, while tasting and creamy; however, ripened melt-in-the-mouth finish.
the interior is creamy and almost Brocciu (also referred to as Brocciu HOW TO enJOY Serve with aromatic red
runny, with a nutty flavor and a long Pasu) is strong and a little spicy. wines, such as a well-structured ajaccio
finish in the mouth. HOW TO enJOY Brocciu can be used in or a full-bodied Patrimonio.
HOW TO enJOY Team this creamy cheese many recipes, including salads, omelets
with light and fruity white, rosé and and cheesecakes. It is delicious served
red wines of auvergne, roanne, with just salt, sugar, rosemary, or
and Beaujolais. honey, and a light wine.

FRANCE Auvergne (Livradois) FRANCE Corse FRANCE Touraine, Centre 43
Age 2–3 months Age 2–3 days Age 1 month
Weight and Shape 12–14oz (350–400g), Weight and Shape 11⁄2–3lbs Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), oval
brick (675g–1.3kg), basket Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Size L. 5–51⁄2in (12–13cm), W. 11⁄2–2.5in Size Various Milk Ewe
(31⁄2–51⁄2cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Ewe Classification Aged fresh
Milk Cow Classification Fresh Producer M. Froideveaux
Classification Soft white Producer Various
Producer Various

France Buchette Pont d’Yeu Cabri Ariégeois Camembert de
Normandie AOC
This log-shaped goat’s cheese takes The passionate farmers in ariège
its name from the island of Yeu in have created this modern French This, one of the most famous French
the Vendée region of France. It has cheese, which has become one of the cheeses, is said to have been created in
a natural rind that is sprinkled with best goat’s cheeses on the market. 1791 by Marie Harel, a farmer’s wife in
wood ash. Based on the famous Mont d’Or cheese, camembert. The most important
TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor of the thick cabri ariégeois is bound up in a strip invention, though, was its wooden box,
paste varies depending on the level of spruce bark. which enabled it to be shipped around
of maturation of the cheese. When it TaSTInG nOTeS Very smooth and creamy, the world. The aOc granted in 1983
is young (at about three weeks), it is this washed cheese has a pronounced, states it must be made with raw milk.
nutty, but as it ages, it develops sharp flavor and a hint of pine that
a peppery taste. comes from the bark. TaSTInG nOTeS Its flavor is fruity, with
HOW TO enJOY Serve on a cheeseboard HOW TO enJOY This cheese is best a slight aroma of mushrooms and mold.
alongside crusty bread, berries, and appreciated alongside a full-bodied and Locals prefer camembert when the
jam. The Buchette is best enjoyed with structured red wine with a strong berry heart is white and not yet creamy.
a fruity white wine, such as Lillet. flavor, such as a côte de roussillon.
HOW TO enJOY Serve with fruity, elegant
red wines of Burgundy and côtes-du-
rhône, or a traditional normandy cider.

FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Basse-Normandie
Age From 4–6 weeks Age Best around 1 month
Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), log Milk Goat (3.5cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
44 Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Producer Fromagerie Fermier Cabrioulet Classification Soft white
Milk Goat Producer Various

Classification Aged fresh

Producer Various

Cantal AOC Capri Lezeen Carré de l’Est

aOc protected since 1956, cantal is These farmhouse goat’s cheeses are as its name suggests (it means
the forefather of all cheeses from the produced by the Gaec du capri “square of the east”), this co-operative
auvergne region. It is made using the Lezéen in the marshy part of Poitou. or industrial washed-rind cheese is
cheddaring process typical of many They have quite a sticky yellow rind, square in shape and is most famous in
english traditional hard cheeses, and is with traces of light blue mold, and are the eastern regions of france (Lorraine,
unique in being the only french cheese sold wrapped in a signature chestnut the ardennes, and champagne).
produced this way. leaf, packaged up in a wooden box. TaSTInG nOTeS Soft and grainy when
young, this cheese becomes almost
TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor differs TaSTInG nOTeS The creamy, runny paste liquid when mature. It has a salty france
depending on the age of the cheese: and soft rind has a slightly nutty taste flavor and the orange, sticky rind that
a well-ripened cantal is strong in taste, and only a subtle goaty flavor. gives it a smokey bacon tang. Those
while a young cheese has a mild, nutty HOW TO enJOY Pair capri Lezeen with covered with white mold are milder.
and milky flavor. a dry white wine, such as a Sancerre or HOW TO enJOY Spread this semi-soft
HOW TO enJOY Pair cantal with Viognier. It tastes delicious served cheese on bread for a delicious snack
a light fruity wine, such as a côtes alongside fresh figs or berries. and team with light fruity wines, such
d’auvergne, côtes roannaises, or as châteauneuf-du-Pâpe or Gigondas.
Beaujolais.

FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Lezay, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Champagne, Ardennes and Lorraine 45
Age Best around 3–6 months Age 2–3 weeks Age About 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 77–99lb, cylinder Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2–9oz (125–250g),
Size D. 14–18in (35–46cm), H. 14–16in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) square
(35–39cm) Milk Goat Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow
Classification Hard Producer GAEC du Capri Lezéen Patrick Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Cantet Producer Various

Brie de Meaux AOC A CLOsER LOOk

Made just 31 miles (50km) east of Paris in the region of From Paris to Peru, Brie de Meaux is
Ile-de-France, Brie de Meaux can trace its history back to enjoyed the world over. Surprisingly,
Emperor Charlemagne who, in 774ce, extolled the virtues of there are only a handful of producers,
Brie in his Chronicles. and most cheeses are then matured
and aged by special affineurs, each
they each have their own distinct creating their own unique style.
character influenced by size,
microflora, unique climate,
and grazing.

TAsTINg NOTEs Brie de Meaux is

probably the strongest of all the soft

white cheeses. The aroma should be of

mold, damp leaves, and mushrooms,

becoming more intense with age.

At its peak, it has a glossy pale straw

to butter-yellow colored soft interior THE LADLE To achieve the smooth,

At the Congress of Vienna, 1814, Brie de that oozes irresistibly toward you, voluptuous custardlike interior and to

Meaux was declared the “King of Cheeses.” and a characteristic rich taste like wild, prevent the fat and protein from being lost in
smoky mushroom soup made with beef the whey, cheesemakers must handle the
The worldwide reputation of Brie consommé. If it smells strongly of fragile, floppy curd by hand, using a
de Meaux was established in 1814, ammonia, then it will deliver a vicious perforated ladle known as a pelle à brie,
when it was declared Le Roi des bite. However, one man’s meat is first used in the 12th century.
Fromages, “The King of Cheeses” another man’s poison.
FRANCE at a culinary tournament during the
Congress of Vienna. The close If you prefer Brie that is runny
46 proximity of Ile-de-France to the rather than with a chalky band of
markets of Paris and the charming immature curd through the center,
wooden box in which it is sold have buy it near its “best by” date. Don’t be
also contributed to its rise to fame. alarmed by any white mold that
grows down the cut surface, this just
Brie de Meaux is one of only 40 tells you the cheese is alive and well,
French cheeses protected by the AOC and merely trying to protect its soft
label, which guarantees the quality interior from drying out. It’s best
of a cheese as well as where and how kept in its original paper or wax
it is made (see p8). To qualify, Brie paper. Plastic wrap prevents the
must be made in specific areas with cheese from breathing and the
calf rennet and 6.6 gallons (25 litres) ammonia, released during ripening,
of unpasteurized milk. The curd will be trapped and, within a day or
must be ladled by hand into the so, the cheese will start to sweat.
molds and each cheese must be dry

salted then ripened slowly at a HOw TO ENjOy It would almost
specific temperature and humidity. be a crime to do anything with Brie de
Meaux except allow it to reach room
Brie de Meaux and Camembert temperature and enjoy it with a red
de Normandie (see p44) are often Côte-du-Rhône, Bordeaux, or Burgundy
considered similar, but in fact

FRANCE Ile de France or, as befits the Cheese of Kings, a glass
Age 6–8 weeks of vintage Champagne.

Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel

Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm)

Milk Cow

Classification Soft white RIND The cheese is softest under

Producer Various the rind where the mold is working

to ripen the curd.

SALTing The cheeses are dry salted by hand. ripening The
This helps to seal the cheese as well as draw out cheeses spend a

the moisture. minimum of four weeks
in a special cellar where

they are turned
regularly. First, a
sprinkling of red or
brown streaks or spots
known as ferment du
rouge start to appear,
then the more virulent
white molds, penicillium

candidum and
penicillium camemberti

gradually cover the
rind in a fine coat of

white velvet.

The fat content is around
26 percent, significantly less
than hard cheeses such as
Cheddar (see pp180–181).

France

47
Whole cheese, slice removed.

Cathare Cendré de Niort Cendré de Vergy

France This goat’s cheese is distinctive because cendré traditionally refers to the cendré de Vergy is another example
of the pattern outlined in the charcoal method of maturing cheese in a box of of a cheese made by the method of
powder sprinkled on its rind. The wood ash to form the rind, rather than burying a young cheese in wood ash for
Occitan cross that it bears has been the simply sprinkling the coat with ash. a month. a number of cheeses can be
emblem of the Languedoc region since Most of these cheeses originate in wine- used for this process, including an
the cathar heresies of the 12th and growing regions; they were made when epoisses de Bourgogne. aisy cendré is
13th centuries; it also refers to the milk was abundant, preserved in wood a similar cheese, but it is made by
Occitain language still spoken in parts ash until harvest time, and then served another producer.
of southern France and northern Spain. to the hungry grape pickers. TaSTInG nOTeS This artisan cheese has
TaSTInG nOTeS This recently created TaSTInG nOTeS This fermier cheese has a mix of sweet and strong flavors, with
cheese has a smooth, fine texture and a a real countryside aroma and a fairly a slightly smoked taste and very
subtle goat’s milk taste that is enriched milky flavor. The chestnut leaf it is creamy texture—eat with a spoon!
by the aging process. wrapped in imparts a vegetal hint. HOW TO enJOY Pair with a Meursault or
HOW TO enJOY This is delicious teamed HOW TO enJOY Open a fruity and light chambole Musigny—delicious wines
with a full-bodied and fruity wine, such red wine with cendré de niort, such as that have a long finish and are very
as a Gaillac. a chinon or an alsace Pinot noir. flavorsome.

FRANCE Languedoc-Rousillon FRANCE La Fragnée, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Bourgogne (Epoisses and Gevrey
Age 6 weeks Chambertin)
Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), round Age 2 weeks
Size D. 4in (8cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Weight and Shape 81⁄2oz (100g), round
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), flat disc Milk Goat Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow
48 Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Producer Patrick Cantet Classification Semi-soft
Milk Goat Producer Berthault and Gaugry dairies

Classification Aged fresh

Producer La ferme de Cabriole