World Cheese Book by DK (z-lib.org)

Arzúa-Ulloa DOP Bauma Carrat Beato de Tábara

an elegant round cheese with a waxy Toni Chueca, with Rose Heras, left the santiago Lucas Leon and his sons sPain
clean yellow rind and soft almost city in 1980 to make cheese using milk shepherd their own flock in the sierra
squishy, smooth interior, it remains the from their own herds, but now focuses de la Culebra and make this artisan
most popular within galicia. Various on making the cheeses and acquiring cheese, inspired by the illustrated
artisan producers near the river Ulla excellent milk from a single farmer. manuscripts of the monastery at san
make it, hence its name. TasTing noTes Fragile and striking, the Martín de Tábara, by hand.
TasTing noTes although the paste is deep black ash rind protects the bright TasTing noTes Cool on the palate, its
unexpectedly mild, more like butter white smooth, moist interior. The paste stone-gray rind and aroma of cellars
than cheese, it is deeply aromatic, and is fresh yet luxuriously creamy, with a take you to dark underground spaces,
its sweet, milky flavors develop with distinct but not strong goaty taste. while the bright white paste brings you
quiet confidence on the palate. How To enjoy Ripe tomatoes alone are back to the meadows. an elegant and
How To enjoy Relish its gentle flavors excellent partners to Carrat, and its exceptional cheese.
simply on breadsticks, or spread the perfect Catalan partner would be How To enjoy To be true to the monastic
cheese like butter onto wholemeal, escalivada—grilled eggplants, green purity of the cheese’s inspiration, it is
sourdough, or pumpernickel. Pairs well peppers, and aragón olives—with a best appreciated on its own, or after
with a white Ribeiro wine. fruity white wine such as alella. dinner with a refreshing Riesling.

SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Borreda, Cataluña SPAIN San Martin de Tábara, Castilla-León 149
Age 15–30 days Age 15–21 days Age 60–100 days
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), square Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb
(500g–3.5kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (500g–1kg), cylinder
Size D. 4–10in (10–26cm), H. 2–5in (3cm) Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 21⁄2–3in
(5–12cm) Milk Goat (6–7cm)
Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Producer Formatge Bauma SL Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Santiago Leon Lucas

Benabarre Benasque Cabrales DOP

sPAin And PorTuGAl Blessed with an absolutely stunning Produced in the stunning Benasque A notorious strictly artisan blue cheese
setting, this dairy sits in the foothills of valley in the heart of the Pyrenees, also matured in the damp, mold-rich caves
the Pyrenees facing the valleys of Aran, known as the “Valle escondido”, or of the rugged, isolated Picos de europa
where its herds of Granadina goats hidden valley, on a family-run farm. mountains, where mixed herds pasture.
pasture. The cheese is shaped like a The cattle graze on natural mountain its original maple-leaf covering has
pumpkin and possesses the size and pastures, supplemented with a diet of now been replaced by green foil.
weight of a small rock. dry food, ensuring that milk quality TAsTinG noTes The thin, soft gray rind
TAsTinG noTes Matured in cellars remains consistent year-round. envelops a creamy paste that is heavily
ventilated by clean mountain air, the TAsTinG noTes Hand-molded and slowly streaked with blue veins and punctuated
natural molds on the rind develop matured in underground cellars, it is with irregular cavities. Although the
aromas of fresh mushroom. The paste moist yet crumbly, with a hint of salt cheese’s aroma is a touch fetid, a keen
is compact, revealing flavors of and a full-bodied strong, tangy finish. creaminess comes through.
hazelnuts, acorns, and wild herbs. How To enjoy A well-rounded cheese How To enjoy This very strong cheese is
How To enjoy serve simply, accompanied best served simply with fresh crusty best sampled at the end of a meal with
by a good red somontano wine and a white bread and a glass of the local a dry Asturian cider, as even young
bowl of dark Aragón olives. somontano wine. Cabrales will overwhelm most pairings.

150 SPAIN Benabarre, Aragón SPAIN Huesca, Aragón SPAIN Asturias
Age 14–60 days Age 3–6 months Age 3 months minimum
Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–8lb 13oz
(400–600g) or 51⁄2–61⁄2lb (2.5–3kg), square Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2–3in (5–7cm) (600g–4kg), drum
Size L. 41⁄2–9in (11–23cm), W. 41⁄2–9in Milk Cow Size D. 6–81⁄2in (15–22cm), H. 3–4in
(11–23cm), H. 2–3in (5–8cm) Classification Hard (7–10cm)
Milk Goat Producer Quesería el Benasques Milk Cow, ewe, and goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue
Producer Quesos Benabarre Producer Various

Cabra Rufino Camerano DOP Cañarejal

For 40 years the Rufino family has Also known as La Aulaga Camerano, This artisan torta, a contemporary SpAin
been aging these five-day-old tortas. this is the brainchild of Monica northern version of the more famous
each piece is methodically turned, Figuerola. Shaped in traditional wicker Torta La Serena, was an initiative of
washed, and checked daily. The best are molds and aged for up to two months, the local sheep-farming Santos family.
made in the fall, when the goats enjoy this is a resolutely artisan cheese made it is produced using milk from the
the local acorns, making the cheese only in spring and summer. Santos’ flock of robust Awassi sheep,
particularly creamy. its full name is TASTing noTeS The natural mold has a which graze the local grasslands.
Queso de Cabra Rufino. powerful aroma of mushrooms. The TASTing noTeS Made with thistle rennet,
TASTing noTeS Seasonality and aging texture of the cheese itself is close, and this is the creamiest of all the Spanish
affect the cheese, which ranges from dissolves on the palate into subtle tortas. Very aromatic, with soft, earthy
dense and compact with a crumbly yet flavors of goat and mountain herbs. flavors, it has a typical bitter finish.
moist paste and a strong, genuine spicy How To enjoy eaten as a dessert with How To enjoy open the thin rind to
bite, to unctuous in the autumn. honey, grapes, or quince when young, or expose the silky interior, and scoop out
How To enjoy ideally, relaxing in the served simply with toasted pistachios, with a teaspoon or breadsticks. it is
local Bar Rufino, with country-style country bread, and a young Rioja wine. also delicious melted on a rare fillet
bread and a strong wine or beer. steak served with caramelized onions.

SPAIN Olivia de la Frontera, Extremadura SPAIN Munilla, La Rioja SPAIN Pollos, Castilla-León 151
Age 60–120 days Age 7 days fresh; 60 days cured Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), drum Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz
Size Various Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11.5–15cm), (250–500g), round
Milk Goat H. 2–4in (5.5–10cm) Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm), H. 2–21⁄2in
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat (5–6cm)
Producer Quesos Artesanos Rufino Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe
Producer Quesería la Aulaga Classification Semi-soft
Producer Cañarejal SL

Cantabria DOP Casín DOP Castellano

sPAiN ANd PorTugAL Also known as Queso Nata de Casina cattle feed on lush, mountain Little known and understood mainly by
Cantabria, this was originally made in meadow to provide milk for one of the its brand name, Castellano cheese can
the Cóbreces Cistercian monastery, but oldest cheeses in Asturias. The unique actually be of outstanding character
is now produced by numerous small and recipe involves repeated rolling of the when made well because the Castilla-
medium-sized family dairies using milk curds during the first week, before they León region produces the best,
from the abundant dairy cattle found are kneaded into shape to producing creamiest ewe’s milk in spain.
pasturing in sheltered green valleys. Casín’s peculiar grainy paste. TAsTiNg NoTes when aged for six months
TAsTiNg NoTes its smooth waxy rind TAsTiNg NoTes with a strong smell that and made with raw milk, it gains
hides a pale interior, with a dense, suggests rancid butter, the taste is very piquancy and a smooth texture that
springy texture and a mellow, sweet, fiery and oily on the palate. The dense, reveals a distinct caramelized onion
and buttery flavor, sometimes with creamy-looking paste is oddly grainy. flavor of sheep and an intense finish.
a tart finish. How To eNjoy Producers imprint their How To eNjoy An apéritif cheese ideal
How To eNjoy eat on crusty toast with name on the cheese with a wooden with bold red wines such as somontano
chestnut honey, quince, or apple jelly. stamp, making Casín a very attractive or Priorato, it is also excellent with
Also ideal picnic fare with a salad and option to serve whole on a cheeseboard. unsalted nuts and dried fruit, quince
a dry white or young red wine. Best enjoyed with beer or cider. jelly or paste, or fresh pears and apples.

152 SPAIN La Cavada, Cantabria SPAIN Asturias SPAIN Castilla-León
Age Minimum 15 days Age 60 days Age 2–6 months
Weight and Shape 14oz–6lb Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb
(400g–2.8kg), round or brick hemisphere (2–3kg), drum
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Size D. 4–8in (10–20cm), H. 11⁄2–3in Size D. 41⁄2-71⁄2in (11–19cm), H. 3–4in
Milk Cow (4–7cm) (8–10cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various

Cebreiro Flor de Guîa Gamonedo DOP

Reminiscent of a chef’s hat or stout An exceptional and very rare cheese, A blue mountain cheese overshadowed SPAin
mushroom in shape, Cebreiro is rarely curiously only ever made by women, it by its neighbor Cabrales (see p150), but
found away from its mountain home in is named Flor de Guîa (thistle flower) with quite an individual character:
Galicia. The characteristic shape is after the local thistle used to coagulate harder pressed, elegant-looking rind, less
achieved when the curd is put in a bag the milk. Shaped with a grass belt, the blue veining, and lightly smoked before
and a hoop slipped over the top to hold cheese develops gently rounded sides. placing in the natural curing caves.
it in position; as the hoop is not tall TASTinG noTeS Creamiest of all Canarian TASTinG noTeS This cheese blues lightly
enough, the curd spills over the top. cheeses, Flor de Guîa has an unctuous, in patches nearer to the hard dry rind
TASTinG noTeS The fresh white paste is rich texture that melts in the mouth, and has a gentle spikiness, revealing
moist and close-textured but granular. releasing its mildly acidic, aromatic hints of damp mushroom, salt, and a
it has a fresh, lightly acidic yogurt flavor and the typical bitterness of nutty aftertaste of hazelnuts.
tang, with an aroma of warm butter. thistle rennet on the finish. How To enjoy Relish in the rustic flavor
How To enjoy Serve with honey and fruit How To enjoy Complements fruity white of a cheese made in shepherds’ cabins
jams and preserves, or use in gratins wines from Galicia, tropical fruit such on the mountain passes of the Picos de
and béchamel sauce. Cebreiro happily as bananas, and fruit jams such as europa. Gamonedo del Valle is a
pairs with chilled young Albariño wine. those made from berries. A rare treat. milder, more accomplished cheese.

SPAIN Lugo, Galicia SPAIN Gran Canaria, Islas Canarias SPAIN Cangas de Onis and Onis, Asturias 153
Age 3–7 days Age 2–3 weeks Age 3–5 months
Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2–11lb (2–5kg), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–15lb 7oz
(300g–2kg), chef’s hat wheel (500g–7kg), drum
Size D. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 81⁄2–12in (22–30cm), H. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D. 4–12in (10–30cm), H. 2½–6in
Milk Cow (4–6cm) (6–15cm)
Classification Fresh Milk Ewe and cow Milk Cow, with some ewe or goat
Producer Queixerias Castelo de Branas; Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue
Carmen Arrojo Valcarcel Xan Busto Producer Various Producer Various

Mahón DO a clOser lOOk

granted denomination of origin status in 1985, Mahón comes Mahón is lovingly nurtured and
from the Balearic island of Menorca. the tiny island has a matured by the skillful afinadores
colorful history, with invasions by the Carthegians, romans, who buy the generic young cheeses
arabs, French, and lastly the British in the 18th century, who and age them according to their own
introduced the Friesian cow. individual methods.

spain and portugal Port of Mahón, Menorca, from which the TasTing nOTes at 20–60 days it is interior
supple, buttery. and mild; semi-
cheese takes its name. cured at 2–5 months, the flavor THe racks the cheeses are stored on wooden
increases and the texture racks in underground caves where the afinador
records show that Mahón was becomes firmer; cured, or carefully controls the temperature, humidity, and
traded around the Mediterranean añejo, at 5–10 months, it flow of fresh air.
from about the 13th century. is hard and slightly
However, it owes its international granular, not unlike
reputation to the local merchants parmigiano-reggiano
who, in the late 1800s, started taking (see pp130–131), and
the farmers’ cheese in exchange for has an aroma and
goods. Known as recogedor-afinador, taste of peaches with
gatherer-ripeners, they ripened the a sea-salt finish.
young cheeses in underground caves
where the airflow, temperature, and green-labeled
154 humidity provided the cheese with a Mahón is made by hand
unique microclimate. this practice from raw milk on small
continues, with about 300 family- farms and finished by an
owned dairy farms selling their afinador, whose skill is to
milk to the big cooperatives. bring out the best in each cheese.
today, the best-known afinador the harder, more piquant style
is nicolas Cardona. with its red label and bright orange
rind is made in cooperatives and
has an unexpectedly sharp, mouth-
puckering bite.

HOw TO enjOy traditionally
served as an appetizer, drizzled with
olive oil and topped with a sprig of
fresh rosemary. serve it alongside a
glass of sherry, which brings out the
personality of the cheese. However,
like all hard cheeses, it is extremely
versatile and is used in many recipes
from the spanish omelet to tapas and
pastries. the more matured or cured
Mahón pairs well with beer or even
sake (Japanese rice wine).

SPAIN Menorca, Balearic Islands
Age 20 days–5 months
Weight and Shape 3lb 4oz (1.5kg),
square “cushion”
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

All aged Mahón is speckled with
small, irregular holes, caused by
the fermentation that happens as
the cheese ripens.

Cloth pressing The young
artisanal cheese is wrapped in cloth
(fogasser) and tied by its corners. This
is pressed manually, forcing out excess
whey and forming the cheese into its
distinct “cushion” shape.

The upper surface of
matured artisanal
Mahón bears the pattern
of the creases and folds of
the fogasser.

Spain

Exterior 155

The ocher-yellow color of the rind
is created not by bacteria but by
rubbing butter, paprika, and olive
oil into the rind to enhance its
appearance and prevent mold.

Garrotxa Herreño Ibérico

SPain and POrTuGal One of the new generation of Spanish Similar cheeses are produced all over imprinted with the marks of the
artisan cheeses to come to prominence these rugged islands under the various woven-basket mold, ibérico is a blend
in recent years, this is notable for its island names, but this has the most of cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk, typical
subtle goaty flavor and dark gray interesting texture and flavor. when of many traditional Spanish cheeses,
velveteen rind, or pell florida. First smoked, there are beautiful burnished and makes up more than 50 percent of
produced in 1981 by a single maker, lines on the rind from the racking. the nation’s consumption of cheese.
Garrotxa is now made by several other
artisan cheesemakers in the region. TaSTinG nOTeS it is bright white and TaSTinG nOTeS The rind is often colored
TaSTinG nOTeS a fresh slice, unusually refreshingly acidic when young, while to indicate age, and the blend of milks
chalky for Spanish cheese, invokes smoked Herreño is a satisfying balance brings together the best of each one:
memories of mountain herbs, walnuts, of light smoke, usually fig or prickly creamy and mellow from the cow, sweet
and mushrooms; the lingering finish pear branches, and delicate flavor. and nutty from the ewe, and
has distinct creamy overtones of goat. HOw TO enjOy when young, it pairs well herbaceous notes from the goat.
HOw TO enjOy ideal for tapas or at the with white and rosé wines; aged it is HOw TO enjOy The flavor changes subtly
end of a meal, served with almonds, better with red wines. excellent lightly with the seasons, but ibérico is always
walnuts, and a robust white Priorat. melted and served with red or green delicious in a toasted sandwich or used
mojo sauces or in the local cheesecake. for a gratin, whatever time of year.

156 SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN El Hierro, Islas Canarias SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha; Castilla León
Age 2–4 months Age 10–60 days Age 1 month minimum
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg,) round Weight and Shape 12oz–8lb 13oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz
Size D. 6in (15cm), 3in (H. 7cm) (350g–4kg), cylinder (1–31⁄2kg), drum
Milk Goat Size D. 31⁄2–10in (8.5–25.5cm), Size D. 31⁄2–81⁄2in (9–22cm), H. 3–5in
Classification Semi-soft H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (6–8.5cm) (7–12cm)
Producer Various Milk Goat, cow, and ewe Milk Cow, goat, and ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Sociedad Cooperativa Ganaderos Producer Various
de El Hierro; Valverde

Ibores DOP Idiazábal DOP Liébana DOP

a rustic cheese whose roots lie in the This ancient cheese comes from the Small cheeses (quesucos) are made in SPain
migrating herds of native Verata and Basque mountains, where shepherds each village in the foothills of the Picos
Retinta goats and the wild vegetation spent summer in the high pastures, de europa. Mainly fresh or semi-soft,
and oak forests of the area, it is found before returning in the fall with their sometimes smoked, they are made with
either plain or brushed with olive oil cheeses. Stored in the rafters of the cow’s or sometimes ewe’s or goat’s milk.
and pimentón (smoked paprika). shepherds’ huts over the summer, the TaSTing noTeS Lemony when fresh, but
TaSTing noTeS The firm white paste is cheese took on a wood-smoke flavor. most are supple, buttery, and aromatic,
rich with aromas of broom, lavender, TaSTing noTeS Hard and chewy, with with a hint of caramel when made with
and thyme, while the copper-colored tiny holes and a coppery rind, idiázabal ewe’s milk. The rinds are typically thin,
pimentón rind imparts a warmth to the is smoked with beech wood, adding a rough, and straw-colored, or bright
cheese’s tangy finish. light smokiness to the distinctive white if fresh. Smoking adds piquancy.
How To enjoy Sprinkle a slice with caramel sweetness of the ewe’s milk. How To enjoy Serve on a cheeseboard
pimentón, lightly toast, and serve with artisan varieties are a rare treat. alongside dried fruits and nuts, and a
an apéritif or as a light supper with How To enjoy Try a Basque recipe such selection of young wines. young cheeses
salad. ideal with a crisp dry white wine as squid and idiazábal risotto, or serve are delicious with mountain honey.
and unsalted nuts. simply with Txacoli or a Basque cider.

SPAIN Caceres, Extremadura SPAIN Navarra SPAIN Cantabria 157
Age 2 months minimum Age 3–6 months Age 2 weeks minimum
Weight and Shape 1lb 7oz–21⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg), Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz
(650g–1.2kg), drum drum (400g–500g), round
Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm), H. 2–31⁄2in Size D. 4–12in (10–30cm), H. 3–5in Size D. 3–5in (8–12cm), H. 1–4in
(5–9cm) (8–12cm) (3–10cm)
Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow and occasionally ewe and goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added Classification Fresh or semi-soft
Producer Queserías de las Villuercas; Producer Various Producer Various
Berrocales Trujillanos

Majorero DOP Monte Enebro Los Montes de Toledo

SPain anD PoRTugaL The scrubby desert landscape of when most would be retiring, Rafael This is the innovation of a spirited
Fuerteventura nourishes the Majorero Báez chose to create this pata de mulo, individual, anna Maria Rubio. The
goats that produce this exceptional or mule’s-hoof-shaped, goat’s cheese, Toledo Mountains neighbor ibores,
cheese. The rind, rubbed with olive oil, with its distinctive rind covered in gray where goats dominate, so local goat
bears the imprint pattern of a palm and black molds. it was the first farmers joined the cooperative and
frond belt. Some are rubbed with either modern artisan cheese in Spain to gain provide milk for this soft, unique torta.
paprika or gofio (roasted corn flour). international recognition. TaSTing noTeS a clean aroma and silky
TaSTing noTeS Supple to firm, Majorero TaSTing noTeS Dense curds are gently texture with flavors that vary with the
ranges from creamy fresh with a subtle compressed, and the flavor matures seasons from more acidic with a touch
goaty flavor, through to a more robust over time from a light citric creaminess of salt to sweeter during the spring, it
nutty, almondy sweetness. to an assertive, pungent bite. is a mild cheese.

How To enjoy Traditionally grated into How To enjoy Savor with muscatel How To enjoy Sublime on crusty white
vegetable soups or summer salads, and dessert wine, add to beetroot salad, or bread with fruits and nuts: pistachios,
served with a minerally white island fry in tempura batter and serve with apples, and quince paste. Pair with
wine. young Majorero makes a superb orange blossom honey, accompanied by fruity white wine or chilled dry fino.
fondue flavored with orange zest. a light, white La Mancha wine.

158 SPAIN Fuerteventura, Islas Canarias SPAIN Avila, Castilla-León SPAIN Navalmorales, Castilla-La Mancha
Age 20 days minimum Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–13lb 4oz Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), mule’s hoof Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round
(1–6kg), round Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 12cm (5in), H. 21⁄2in Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Size D. 6–14in (15–35cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (61⁄2cm) Milk Goat
(6-9cm) Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft
Milk Goat Classification Natural rind Producer La Merendera Sociedad
Classification Hard Producer Queserias del Tietar Cooperativa
Producer SAT Ganaderos de Fuerteventura

Murcia al Vino DOP Palmero DOP Pasiego de las
Garmillas
Spain’s hot and arid region of Murcia Spain’s largest cheese comes from the SPaIn
has a growing cheese industry based on greenest of the Canary Islands, where a fragile primitive cheese made
the exceptionally productive native the Palmero goat feeds on rich pasture, without a mold that was originally
goats, Murciano-granadina, honed by moving steadily up the slopes as the from the valley of Pas, it is now made
genetic selection over generations. This weather warms. to more contemporary standards and
cheese is washed with local jumilla TaSTIng noTeS Diverse and lush grazing available at the weekly market in the
and yecla red wines. gives this lightly smoked cheese a rich town of ampuero and beyond.
TaSTIng noTeS a washed-curd cheese flavor. Palmero is pleasantly crumbly,
with a slightly elastic texture and salty, earthy, and lightly acidic, with a TaSTIng noTeS So fresh that the pale
distinct, aromatic flavor, with hints of toasted aroma. rind has barely formed, its interior is
almonds from the rich milk and a How To enjoy as Palmero breaks up soft and fatty, with an aroma of fresh
slightly winey, fermenting fruit finish. easily, it is commonly used in local yogurt and mountain streams.
How To enjoy Try the cheese in salads, cuisine grated into the mojo sauces or
lightly fried, or grilled on toast and sliced alongside fish, vegetable, and How To enjoy Its delicate, sweet flavors
served with the young white or rosé potatoes. also good on its own with the work well with crusty bread, salted
wines from jumilla and yecla. local mineral-rich Malvasia wines. anchovies, and piquillo peppers,
accompanied by a very cold dry cider.
Used for the local quesada pasiega.

SPAIN Jumilla, Murcia SPAIN La Palma, Islas Canarias SPAIN Ampuero, Cantabria 159
Age 3 weeks minimum Age 1–3 months Age 15–20 days
Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–33lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), flat disk
(300g–2 kg), drum (7–15kg), wheel Size D. 5½in (14cm), H. ¾in (2cm)
Size D. 3–7in (7–18cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in Size D. 5–231⁄2in (12–60cm), H. 21⁄2–6in Milk Cow
(6–9cm) (6–15cm) Classification Fresh
Milk Goat Milk Goat Producers Queso Las Garmillas
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various

sPaiN aND PoRTugal Pata de Mulo Payoyo Peña Blanca de
Corrales
Named “mule’s hoof” because of its set up in 1997 by 14 farmers, this
shape, this was traditionally molded by cooperative makes cheeses using milk assertive ewe’s milk cheese with a rind
hand in cheesecloth, then rolled on a from native Payoyo goats and rare-breed of red and ochre molds, this is an
table until the typical shape was grazalema sheep that roam the green original recipe using lactic coagulation,
achieved. Thankfully, since the late pastures of the sierra de grazalema, and its makers very successfully
1990s, production of this disappearing 900m (2,750ft) above sea level. capture the terroir of the sierra de
cheese has been reinvigorated. TasTiNg NoTes The strictly artisan espadas where it is made.
TasTiNg NoTes a rounded flavor, grainy methods used mean that even the
texture, nutty nose, light oil on the rennet derives from the Payoyo goat. TasTiNg NoTes The aroma is reminiscent
palate, and persistent finish are typical The plain rind can be coated with lard of a Cabrales, but the dense paste has
of this very Castilian aged ewe’s cheese, or paprika, and it has a firm texture the texture of fresh curds, with hints of
with its straw-colored wrinkled rind. that reveals a soft, rounded nutty taste, leather, caramelized onions, and wool.
How To eNjoy attractive for slicing into with hints of toffee.
salads or displayed on a cheeseboard, it How To eNjoy ideal with an apéritif. How To eNjoy its restrained piquancy
pairs beautifully with young red or rosé serve with almonds and a Manzanilla works well with other Mediterranean
wines of Ribera del Duero or Navarra. dry sherry or a cold refreshing beer. flavors: fino or palo cortado sherry,
black olives, extra virgin olive oil, and
fresh crusty bread.

160 SPAIN Castilla-León SPAIN Sierra de Grazalema, Andalucía SPAIN Almedíjar, Valencia
Age 2–6 months Age 6–12 weeks Age 90 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), flattened Weight and Shape 21⁄4–51⁄2lb (1–2.5kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), cylindrical
oval log cylinder Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 3in (8cm)
Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 5in (13cm), H. 3in Size D. 5–61⁄2in (12–17cm), H. 3–4in Milk Ewe
(8cm) (8–10cm) Classification Hard
Milk Ewe Milk Goat Producer Quesería Los Corrales
Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Quesos Artesanales de Villaluenga
SL

La Peral Picón Bejes Tresviso Roncal DOP sPAin
DOP
This relatively modern foil-wrapped Records for this Pyrenean sheep’s
blue cheese from Asturias is made by From the villages of Bejes and Tresviso cheese date back to the 13th century,
the third generation of creator Antonio in the Picos de Europa, this ancient and detail control of the herds as they
León’s family. Production remains small blue cheese has the hallmark sharp were moved between their summer and
scale and consistent, resulting in an flavor characteristic of cheeses made in winter pastures, and routes up and
accessibly priced, very pleasant cheese. these high peaks. Abandoned mines down the Roncal valley. The cheese is
TAsTing noTEs A sticky yellow rind with and natural caves provide excellent pressed, then aged in cloth.
a pale yellow interior lightly inked with damp space for curing. TAsTing noTEs Dense with a smooth
blue veins, it emits a gentle buttery straw- to gray-colored rind that bears
smell. The shiny curd-like cheese has a TAsTing noTEs The light gray rind with the imprint of the cloth. with age, there
creamy salty flavor that gradually orange overtones conceals an interior may be hints of dried fruit, a growing
develops into a clean, fresh mild blue. veined with dense blue streaks. A piquancy, and a lingering aftertaste.
How To Enjoy savor this cheese with pungent blue cheese with a distinctive How To Enjoy serve simply with crusty
blackberries and walnuts, accompanied balance of bite, butter, and salt. white bread and a good navarran red
by either an Asturian cider or a Pedro wine or cider. Artichoke gratin with
Ximenez sherry. How To Enjoy sprinkle with ground Roncal is a popular local dish.
hazelnuts or serve with prunes; pair
with muscatel or a sweet red Priorat.

SPAIN Illas, Asturias SPAIN Cantabria SPAIN Roncal, Navarra 161
Age 60–150 days Age 3–6 months Age 4 months minimum
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), tall cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg),
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (500g–3kg), drum drum
Milk Cow with ewe’s cream Size D. 4–8in (10–21cm), H. 21⁄2–5in Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 4–41⁄2in
Classification Blue (6–13cm) (10–11cm)
Producer Herederos de Antonio León Milk Cow, goat, and ewe Milk Ewe
Classification Blue Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various

Manchego DOC

Manchego takes its name from the dry plateau of La Mancha,
south of Madrid and not far from Toledo. Baptized by the Arabs, Al
Mansha (land without water), La Mancha is a vast, dry flat region
with few trees, scorched by temperatures of up to 122°F (50°C) and
minimal rainfall. It is a magnificent part of Spain with a sense of
timelessness and history, dotted with old ruins, scrawny sheep,
and the windmills made famous by Don Quixote.

Modern irrigation has meant vast sheep is lifted off its back legs so the
acres of vines, olive groves, milk from the swollen udder collects
sunflowers, and crops have replaced in the bucket, yielding but a few liters
much of the indigenous shrubs, of milk each a day. Yet every drop is
acorns, blackthorn, vetch, and wild imbued with the essence of the wild
grasses of the dehesa (uncultivated thyme, aromatic herbs, and withered
land). However, sufficient natural, acorns that form their diet. The
uncultivated land still exists in the resulting thick, sweet, aromatic milk
mountains, woodlands, around is what makes Manchego unique.
riverbanks, and on the plains, to
SpAIn AnD pOrTUgAL provide summer grazing for the TasTing nOTes The depth and a ClOser lOOk
hardy sheep, whose thick, aromatic complexity of flavor depends on age, but
milk gives Manchego its character. all Manchego has an unmistakable Most Manchego is now made with
In fall and winter, their diet is richness reminiscent of Brazil nuts and pasteurized milk in modern factories
supplemented with sweet tendrils caramel, with a distinct aroma of lanolin that comply with EU regulations.
from vines and the stubble from and roast lamb, and a slightly salty However, great care has been taken
crops and hay. finish. The texture is dry yet creamy. It to ensure the finished cheese is as
can be slightly oily on the surface and close to traditional handmade cheeses
Most Manchego is made in may feel a little greasy in the mouth, but as possible.
factories, but milking is still largely that just makes it taste better. Each
done by hand. It is an awesome sight mouthful is a taste of Spanish culture,
to see the shepherds as they work history, and gastronomy.
methodically through the herds,
often upward of 700 at a time. Each Cheeses that reach a great age have
a peppery bite to the finish and, if cut
into thin wedges and marinated in the
strong aromatic local green olive oil,
the flavor is intensified.

162 HOw TO enjOy Like all hard pressing anD aging Once the curd is
cheeses, Manchego keeps well and is in the molds, they are placed on a horizontal
The vast, dry plains of La Mancha. gorgeous eaten just as it is; however, press to expel excess whey. Artisan cheeses are
like any hard cheese, it is extremely then aged in stone barns, sometimes dug into
SPAIN Castilla La Mancha versatile and, when cooked, lends a the sides of the limestone hills. Factory cheeses
Age 6–18 months nutty, sweetness to the dish. are aged in large, airy barns.
Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), drum
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Manchego will absorb tannin, so
Milk Ewe enjoy it with a robust or young rough
Classification Hard red, crisp white, or perhaps the best
Producer Various combination is with sherry, either dry
or sweet.

Marking To qualify for the DOC label, the
cheese must bear the distinct zigzag markings along
the sides and the flor, “flower,” design on the top and
bottom. Originally, the zigzag marks were made by
encircling the fresh curd with plaited esparto grass
and placing it on hand-carved wooden boards to
drain. Regrettably, the boards and grass have been
replaced with plastic molds, imprinted with the
zigzag pattern.

The texture of the
ivory-colored interior
is firm and dry, yet
rich and creamy.

interior The distinctive yellow to brownish-
beige rind gathers a multitude of
molds that must be washed and
scrubbed and sometimes waxed
before being sold.

spain

163

Exterior

San Simón da Costa Taramundi Tetilla DO

SPaIn anD PorTugal Shaped as a large teardrop or spinning The creation of a splinter cooperative This popular cheese from northwestern
top with a small nipple on the top, it is who wanted to respond to the growth Spain is well known beyond its borders
thought to have its origins in Celtic in popularity of local cheese and take due to its mellow taste and distinctive
culture. Its distinctive smooth copper- advantage of the rich mountain milk, shape—the name Tetilla means “small
colored rind is the result of gentle Taramundi is inspired by the sweeter, breast”. original farmhouse production
smoking over birch wood. more elastic cheeses of Switzerland. has been almost totally replaced by a
TaSTIng noTeS The smoky taste blends TaSTIng noTeS Made plain or with strong dairy industry.
elegantly with the buttery aroma and walnuts or hazelnuts, this cheese has TaSTIng noTeS It is ready to eat after
taste, while the overall flavour is mild an unusual but pleasant flavor—a mix only seven days, when the deep bright
with some salt, a pleasant balance of of toast, butter, and sweetness—and a yellow interior is sweet, clean, buttery,
acidity, and sweetness in the aftertaste. springy texture. and unctuous; with maturity, Tetilla
How To enjoy a good melting cheese, How To enjoy an excellent hors d’oeuvre becomes firmer and more resilient,
this works well in rice, pasta, and alongside crudités, it also has the same with a slight acidity on the finish.
vegetable dishes, or added to salads. superb melting qualities as raclette. How To enjoy Delicious when served at
Delicious with a glass of a young red Perfect when combined with young, the end of a meal, with either quince
Valdeorras wine and some peanuts. fruity white wines or cider. paste or a sharp apple purée.

164 SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Taramundi, Asturias SPAIN Galicia
Age 3 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 7 days minimum
Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb 3oz
(800g–1.5kg), large cone (500g–1kg), wheel (500g–1.5kg), flattened cone
Size D. 5–6in (12–15cm), H. 5–7in Size D. 4–8in (10–20cm), H. 1½–2½in Size D. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm), H. 31⁄2in–6in
(13–18cm) (4–6cm) (9–15cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow and goat Milk Cow
Classification Flavor-added Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Tortas Extremeñas Tou del Til·lers Tronchón

once considered fit only for peasants, This tender soft cheese with its white a delightful volcano-shaped cheese, SPaIn
these lush cheeses have recently taken mold rind is a thoroughly modern Tronchón is imprinted with original
europe by storm with their near-liquid cheese created at a dairy founded in carved wooden molds made by the
interiors. There are three versions, 1995. It is situated in the heart of the shepherds. The tradition of taking
including Torta de Barros (pictured), Pyrenees, in Pallars Sobirà, where mixed herds of goat and sheep into the
Torta del Casar, and Torta La Serena. varied high pasture enriches the Sierra del Maestrazgo extends its
TaSTIng noTeS Thistle rennet gives these quality of the milk. spread throughout the provinces of
cheeses a distinctive earthy flavor and TaSTIng noTeS The rind reveals notes of Tarragona, Teruel, and Castellón.
a gentle bitterness on the finish; the ammonia and, although there are hints TaSTIng noTeS Mountain pastures endow
paste is very soft and rich, with aromas of fresh mushroom and rich cream, the this soft, buttery cheese, available
reminiscent of dry hay. pungent, gluey, and assertive flavor of either fresh or cured, with hints of
How To enjoy Heat in the oven until this cheese is hard to deny. lavender and oregano.
warmed right through, cut a hole in the How To enjoy Full of character, it is best How To enjoy Serve fresh ewe’s milk
top of the cheese, and scoop out the soft enjoyed with a dense white country- Tronchón with crusty bread and green
interior with a teaspoon or breadsticks. style loaf and a strong red wine such as olives; the cured goat’s milk variety is
a Terra alta or Somontano. sharper and pairs well with young reds.

SPAIN Extremadura SPAIN Sort, Cataluña SPAIN Aragón and Pais Valenciano 165
Age From 8 weeks Age 6–12 weeks Age From 45 days
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb Weight and Shape14oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb
(500g–1.3kg), round (400–500g) and 21⁄4lb (1kg), round (500g–2kg), round with a crater
Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm), H. 2–21⁄2in Size D. 5in and 81⁄2in (13 and 22cm), Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 3–4in
(5–6cm) H. 1 and 11⁄2in (3 and 4cm) (7–10cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Ewe or goat, or a blend
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Tros de Sort Producer Various

Tupí Valdeón DO Zamorano DO

sPain anD PoRTugaL This spread, which is a very ancient The innovative alonso brothers, Tomás The dry pastures of northern Castilla
shepherd’s recipe that is firmly back on and javier, produce this on the León contribute to Zamorano’s complex
the modern-day Catalan cheese menu, side of the Picos de europa, where the character. shepherding and moving
is made from the second fermentation climate of Valdéon is less humid than herds between summer and winter
of fresh and cured cheeses, blended that of Picón. The resulting less- pasture have a strong heritage here,
with olive oil and brandy or liqueur. virulent mold produces a less intense and the dramatic landscape offers a
TasTing noTes Matured in small ceramic flavor than similar blues. Valdeón is great variety of vegetation and climate.
clay pots, this is a strangely compulsive often marketed as Picos de europa. TasTing noTes The quality and character
cheese. it has the texture of porridge, a TasTing noTes The rind is rough, sticky, of the ewe’s milk allow the cheese to be
strong piquant flavor, and a slightly speckled with molds, and wrapped in matured for long periods. it develops an
fetid aroma, but develops a surprisingly sycamore leaves. Distinctly spicy, but intense, slightly tart, nutty complexity
satisfying finish. not strong, and flavored with a touch of with a distinct sheepy aroma.
How To enjoy its soft texture makes it salt, it leaves an elegant aftertaste. How To enjoy select a gran Reserva,
perfect for canapés on dry bread, but it How To enjoy serve with hazelnuts, aged for 12 months, and serve alone at
is not a cheese for the faint-hearted. it walnuts, and prunes, and with port or the end of a meal, or perhaps with
pairs well with cold beers and ciders. cider. it also makes an excellent sauce. quince paste, and the local wine Toro.

166 SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN León, Castilla-León SPAIN Castilla-León
Age A few weeks Age 2–3 months Age 100 days minimum
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g) and 7oz Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–8lb 13oz
(200g), pots Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (2–4kg), drum
Size No size Milk Cow, occasionally with goat Size D. 8–91⁄2in (20–24cm), H. 31⁄2–51⁄2in
Milk Cow Classification Blue (9–14cm)
Classification Fresh Producer Queserías Picos de Europa Milk Ewe
Producer Various Classification Hard
Producer Various

portugal

Azeitão DOP Cabra Transmontano Castelo Branco DOP PoRTugal
DOP
This rustic-looking cheese wrapped in This DoP, which is also called Beira
gauze hails from the lush foothills of This cheese, which comes from the area Baxta, describes three cheeses made
the arrabida mountains, where the famous for port is made from the hardy with thistle rennet. Castelo Branco,
flora and local soil conditions strongly and resilient Serrana goat. The herds which is a white ewe’s milk cheese, is
influence the quality of the milk. are moved from high to low altitudes as the most common, but there is also a
TaSTing noTeS The curds are molded in the weather moves into winter, and yellow version blended with goat’s milk
cloth, the rind is brine-washed, and the spring time brings the opportunity for and a hotter, more mature recipe.
paste is pale yellow. it has a sweet, milking and, of course, cheesemaking. TaSTing noTeS it is tangy with a slightly
slightly acidic and very delicate taste, bitter finish, becoming more spicy as it
with fatty spice on the finish. TaSTing noTeS Rich in butterfat and is matured for up to 60 days. young
How To enjoy Cut open the top, scoop protein, the paste is firm with a slightly cheeses have a soft texture that gets
out the runny paste, dollop into mini unctuous texture. The flavor is lemony firmer and chewier with age.
cooked pastry shells, and sprinkle with and zesty, with earthy undertones. How To enjoy in all its variations, this
oregano to serve with an apéritif, or eat cheese adds interest to a cheeseboard,
with nutty bread and wash down with How To enjoy it is excellent for grating alongside dried fruit and nuts. Serve
Tempranillo or albarinho wine. or crumbling over a summer salad and with reds such as Pinot noir.
can be served as a table cheese, paired
with a tawny Port or fruity white wine.

PORTUGAL Setúbal PORTUGAL Bragança and Vila Real PORTUGAL Castelo Branco 167
Age 20–30 days Age 60 days Age 45–60 days
Weight and Shape 31⁄2–9oz (100–250g), Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz–21⁄4lb
soft round (600–900g), round (750g–1kg), round
Size D. 2–41⁄2in (5–11cm), H. 3⁄4–21⁄2in Size D. 5–71⁄2in (12–19cm), H. 1–21⁄2in Size D. 5–6in (12–16cm), H. 21⁄2–3in
(2–6cm) (3–6cm) (6–7cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Évora DOP Ilha Graciosa Nisa DOP

sPain and PorTugaL The home of this hand-shaped washed- The cheesemaking technique used to Merina Branca, the local breed of ewes,
rind cheese is the famous walled town produce ilha graciosa has been handed produce the rich milk for this
of Évora, where it was once traded as down by settlers of the azores’ most traditional cheese, which farmers and
currency. Merino ewe’s milk and northern island for many centuries. it locals have enjoyed for years. Local
cardoon thistle rennet combine to is similar to são jorge, but is matured thistle rennet coagulates the milk, and
create one of the best cheeses of its kind. for a shorter period. the cheese may be preserved in
terra-cotta pots of olive oil called
TasTing noTes This is a delicious, TasTing noTes The island’s fertile talhas.
light-yellow cheese with a crumbly volcanic soil and damp climate provide
texture, light acidity, spicy fruity flavor, the lush pastures that characterize this TasTing noTes The texture of this yellow-
and salty finish. spring pastures create firm straw-yellow cheese, with its white cheese with a well-formed crust
a creamier, fruitier, and stronger strong, clean spicy taste and aroma. is dense, with small eyes in the paste.
version. nisa has a slightly sweet taste and is
How To enjoy graciosa cheese is well very rich and creamy.
How To enjoy it is traditionally thinly suited to eating before or after meals
sliced and accompanied by olives, cured with the local minerally white wines or How To enjoy one of Portugal’s most
meats, and sourdough bread dowsed in sugarcane rum. Very mature versions popular cheeses, it is perfect on a
olive oil, it is also an excellent salad are ideal for grating over gratin dishes. cheeseboard with fruits such as plums
cheese. Pair it with sangiovese wines. or apricots, and a crisp white wine.
PORTUGAL Ilha Graciosa, Azores
168 PORTUGAL Évora Age 90 days PORTUGAL Portalegre
Age 30–90 days Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), cylinder Age 3–4 months
Weight and Shape 4–10oz (120–300g), Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 6in (15cm) Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb (200g–1.3kg),
cylinder Milk Cow round
Size D. 3–4in (7–10cm), H. 11⁄4in (3–3.5cm) Classification Hard Size D. 4–5in (10–13cm), H. 5–6in
Milk Ewe Producer Various (12–16cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various

São Jorge DOP Serpa DOP Serra da Estrela DOP

introduced by a group of Flemish Serpa is similar to Serra, but is made Made from milk of the Bordeleira da poRTugaL
sailors who made Madeira their home, with the milk of the Laconne ewes, Serra da estrela ewes, Serra has a long
it dates back to the 15th century and is rather than the Bordeleira. The hot dry history dating back to the time of the
based on a gouda-type recipe. it is so climate and sparse aromatic grazing Romans. The flocks are moved to
named because the island was gives the cheese a rich and fruity taste. different pastures within the northern
discovered on St. george’s Day. TaSTing noTeS a full, creamy cheese, mountains, and they feed on wild
TaSTing noTeS The abundant grass and Serpa is soft, clean, and slightly salty herbs, flowers, and grasses.
salty pastures allow the cheese to gain on the palate, with a tangy finish. The TaSTing noTeS The supple and luscious
a strong spicy flavor, a clean bouquet, cardoon or thistle rennet used to make yellow paste, coagulated with thistle
and a hard but crumbly texture. it is it adds a lightly acidic aftertaste and rennet, possesses a mild acidity with
akin to a cross between Cheddar and a slight bitterness. the sweetness of toffee and a hint of
gouda, with some small holes. How To enjoy it is perfect paired with strawberries and thyme.
How To enjoy ideal for fondues, São red wine as an apéritif. Scoop out the How To enjoy Bring the cheese to room
jorge also makes a fine addition to a middle with breadsticks, then fill the temperature, cut off the top like a lid,
traditional cheeseboard with fresh fruit shell with mild onions and potatoes, and eat with breadsticks or a spoon
such as pears and muscatel grapes. and bake. Complete enjoyment. along with marmalade or quince paste.

PORTUGAL São Jorge, Madeira PORTUGAL Beja PORTUGAL Guarda 169
Age 4–6 months Age 30 days Age 45 days
Weight and Shape 22lb–241⁄4lb Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb
(10–11kg), cylinder (200g–1.5kg), round (500g and 1kg), round
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 5in (12.5cm) Size D. 4–7in (10–18cm), H. 5–8in Size D. 4–7in (10–18cm), H. 5–8in
Milk Cow (12–20cm) (12–20cm)
Classification Hard Milk Ewe Milk Ewe
Producers Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producers Various Producer Various

gREAT bRITAIN Orkney 100 miles
AND IRELAND 100 km
Blue Monday, Clava Brie NORTH sea
SCOTLAND Harsh, unpredictable weather, long, Caboc,
dark, unforgiving winters, and brief summers meant Crowdie, n
that cheeses were originally made mainly by the old Strathdon Blue
clan folk and crofters for their own consumption. Cuillin Goats
Inspiration for cheeses came from various sources,
including the Vikings and the Irish.

Today there are around 20 Scottish artisan
cheesemakers producing both traditional and unique
cheeses from cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk.
IRELAND Irish cheesemaking dates back centuries
thanks to high rainfall levels, lush pastures,
proximity to Europe, and the influence of itinerant
monks. In recent decades, the industry has seen
a major revival of farmhouse-based productions,
beginning in 1976 when Veronica Steele created
Milleens, Ireland’s first modern farmhouse cheese.

Raw and pasteurized milk from goats, cows, and
sheep is now used here for a wide variety of styles
and flavors, including superb soft fresh cheeses,
blues, hard Cheddar, and Dutch and Swiss styles.
The Irish Farmhouse Cheese Association (CAIS)
lists more than 40 farmhouse cheesemakers in
the country.

Key SCoTlAnD

★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Iona Cromag

Produced only here
Produced throughout the region

aTLaNTIC OCeaN Lanark Blue

Dunlop

Bishop Doddington
Kennedy
gREAT BRITAIn

Cairnsmore Kebbuck Northumberland
Ewes
noRTHERn Allerdale
IRElAnD
Cotherstone

Wensleydale Swaledale Goat
Buffalo Blue

Corleggy Ribblesdale Original Goat

Bellingham Blue Lancashire
Glebe Brethan
IRISH Sea Blacksticks Blue
IRELAnd

REpubLIC Grace Ffteys EngLAnd
of IRELAnd Gorau Glas
Cheshire White Lincolnshire Poacher
Stilton★ Stichelton
Whitehaven Shropshire Blue,
Mount Callan Mossfield Organic
Stilton,
Stilton White Stilton★

St Tola Log WALES Innes Button Red Leicester,
Cooleeney Knockdrinna Caerphilly Cheshire Shropshire Blue,
Gold, Sage Derby Stilton,
Beenoskee Cashel Blue, Lavistown Caerphilly Fowlers White Stilton★
Crozier Blue Finn, Forest Blue Berkswell
Saval, Suffolk Gold
Baylough Cheddar Teifi Farmhouse Hafod Perroche, Snodsbury St Eadburgha, Shipcord
Ragstone Goat St Oswald

Ardrahan St Gall Cerwyn Perl Las Hereford Hop,
Stinking Bishop Daylesford Cheddar,
Coolea Dragons
Back Penyston
Milleens Ardsallagh Pont Gar Pant-Ys-Gawn Windrush Double Gloucester,
Desmond,
Gubbeen Durrus BBilrudewHoeoadvenCPyerranmeyid Oxford Isis Single Gloucester ★
Barkham Blue
Talley Mountain Goat’s Cheese, Waterloo Duddleswell,
Talley Mountain Mature Cheese Sussex Slipcote

Campscott Tunworth

WALES Wales is primarily a pastoral country boasting Cheddar New Forest Blue,
beautiful and varied landscapes with high mountain
ranges, luscious lowlands, and a mild variable climate. Vulscombe Old Sarum Lord
The grasses, wild herbs, and flowers give a unique Curworthy of the
character to the milk of the goats, cows, and sheep that Quickes Hard Goat Old Winchester, Fairlight Hundreds
graze there. Cornish Blue Norsworthy, Rosary Plain
Keltic Gold Posbury Isle of Wight Blue Wealden,
Simple cheese has been made in Wales for centuries St Endellion Wealdway
and was an essential part of the local economy, but the
best known is Caerphilly, initially made on lowland Flower Marie,
farms for the mining community. Golden Cross

The past 25 years brought an extraordinary revival Yarg Beenleigh Blue Little Ryding
of on-farm cheesemaking. Welsh cheese producers now Cornish Sharpham,
make a variety of traditional and modern cheeses, from Cheese ★ Sharpham Rustic,
mild creamy goat’s to robust blues. Ticklemore Goat
ENGLAND A great wedge of the geology and history Farleigh Wallop, Tymsboro Bath Soft
of England can be told through its iconic cheeses, such Little Wallop Cheese,
as Cheddar, Lancashire, and Red Leicester. However, in Blissful Village Green Wyfe of Bath
the last 25 years there has been an upsurge in small, Blue Buffalo
English artisan cheeses, not only resulting in an increase Wedmore
in complex and flavorful cheeses, but also ensuring a Pendragon
future for some of the rare native breeds that give cheese Black-eyed Susan
the subtleties, nuances, and quality so essential for these
handmade products. Cheese is a reflection of individual Exmoor Blue★ Ogleshield
cheesemakers, their craft, and their passion. As a result, Capricorn Goat Dorset Blue
the cheeses of England are a reflection of the very Vinney
landscape, its people, and the animals that graze it.
Woolsery
English Goat

Caerphilly, Rachel, Cheddar
Cheddar White Nancy

england

Allerdale Barkham Blue Bath Soft Cheese

gReaT BRiTaiN aNd iReLaNd This was Carolyn Fairbairn’s first The buttery consistency of Channel graham Padfield, a third-generation
cheese when she began her dairy career island milk, which colors the interior farmer, began making cheese in 1993,
in the basement of the family home in deep yellow, characterizes this excellent but the recipe for Bath soft dates back
1979, using milk from her herd of goats. cheese that looks as good as it tastes. to the time of admiral Lord Nelson,
Nowadays, she works alongside her ammonite-shaped with an attractive who, in 1801, was sent some by his
daughter Leonie, translating the flavors rustic mold-covered rind, it has father as a gift. Today’s organic version
of Cumbria’s lush green grazing into blue-green veining from the Penicillium of this cheese is packed in parchment
delicious cheese. roqueforti mold. bearing a distinctive red wax seal.

TasTiNg NoTes This sweet, moist cheese TasTiNg NoTes Rich and creamy, this TasTiNg NoTes Reminiscent of a mellow
has a clean hint of almond and a texture blue melts in the mouth and, while it Brie, this mild cheese begins with a
similar to Cheshire (see p176), its admirably avoids harshness, it achieves fresh hint of spring onion and matures
maturation in cloth allows different a satisfying and spicy depth. a blue for to a creamier, more mushroomy taste.
layers of flavors to permeate. anyone who usually avoids blue. How To eNjoy Remove from the
How To eNjoy oven-baked or grilled; How To eNjoy serve on its own, in a refrigerator an hour beforehand, and
serve on a bed of baby spinach with a soup, or in a salad with Conference enjoy as part of a cheeseboard with
drizzle of oil and a full-bodied white. pears, mixed leaves, and dressing. Bath oliver Biscuits and wheat beer.

172 ENGLAND Thursby, Cumbria ENGLAND Barkham, Berkshire ENGLAND Bath, Somerset
Age 3–5 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), truckle Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), ammonite Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), square
Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 51⁄2in (14cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄4in
Milk Goat Milk Cow (3cm)
Classification Hard Classification Blue Milk Cow
Producer Thornby Moor Dairy Producer Two Hoots Cheese Classification Soft white
Producer Bath Soft Cheese Company

Beenleigh Blue Berkswell Birdwood Blue
Heaven
one of a very few British blue cheeses This consistent award winner at the
made from ewe’s milk (and available British Cheese Awards was created by The young stock from jonathan and
from August to january), this is the Stephen Fletcher and his mother, Melissa Ravenhill’s herd of Shorthorns
creation of Robin Congdon, a skilled Sheila, on their 16th-century farm near graze on the unimproved limestone
blue-cheese aficionado whose dairy the village of Berkswell. It is now made grassland of Minchinhampton Common.
skirts the banks of the river Dart. by their cheesemaker Linda Dutch, with an addition of Penicillium
TASTIng noTES Rich, sweet, and slightly who uses milk from their flock of East roqueforti, Melissa creates a semi-soft
crumbly, with a blue-green mold Friesland sheep. mold-ripened blue cheese.
running through it, this cheese has
hints of burnt caramel that show what TASTIng noTES originating from a TASTIng noTES The creamy, soft paste, EngLAnD
an excellent ewe’s milk cheese it really traditional recipe, this characterful streaked with patches of blue and
is. The rough exterior has a slight cheese provides a satisfying mouthful: encased in a natural molded crust, is
stickiness. firm texture, sweet, nutty, caramel pleasantly piquant.
How To Enjoy Use in a salad or serve on hints, and a surprisingly tangy finale. How To Enjoy Perfect for canapés or on
its own, complemented with a sweet How To Enjoy Its texture makes it ideal a cheeseboard with crusty bread and a
Devon cider. for dishes that call for grated cheese; drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve
when cooked, it forms a delicious crust. with a Cotswold Brewery wheat beer.

ENGLAND Sharpham Barton, Devon ENGLAND Berkswell, West Midlands ENGLAND Minchinhampton, Gloucestershire 173
Age 5-plus months Age 4–6 months Age 6–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 61⁄2–71⁄2lb (3–3.5kg), Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), flying Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and
drum saucer 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), flat round
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4–5in (10–13cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 2in (5cm) and 8in (20cm), H. 2in
Milk Ewe Milk Ewe (5cm) and 6in (15cm)
Classification Blue Classification Hard Milk Cow
Producer Ticklemore Cheese Producer Ram Hall Dairy Sheep Classification Blue
Producer Birdwood Farmhouse Cheesemakers

Black-eyed Susan Blacksticks Blue Blissful Blue Buffalo

GReaT BRiTain and iReland Taking its name from the flower of the named after a group of chestnut trees once in the carpet business,
daisy family, this is created using the that resemble a collection of black cheesemaker ian arnett is now more
dairy’s young Brie-like Goldilocks sticks in winter, the Blacksticks range interested in the tufted Hampshire
cheese. Black peppercorns are crushed was originally developed for the sward that the buffalo graze upon to
to exactly the right consistency—still restaurant trade. By popular request, it produce his fine blues. not one to
retaining a certain bite—and the has made it into stores. Blacksticks compromise, he can make a mighty
cheese is then rolled in them, before Blue is a contemporary soft blue-veined strong blue.
being allowed to ripen. cheese, milder and creamier than other TasTinG noTes Rich and creamy, this is
TasTinG noTes The glory lies in the British blues such as stilton. one of a handful of British buffalo’s
contrast between the spicy outside and TasTinG noTes Blacksticks Blue starts by milk blues. The cheese is tangy, moist,
the runny “gold” within. Made with milk delighting the nose, then strokes the smooth and light, and you can taste the
from Jersey cows, the ripened interior tongue, and finally lingers delightfully sweetness of the milk and the richness
is reminiscent of thick Jersey cream. on the palate with a mild spicy tang. of the countryside.

How To enJoy serve simply with How To enJoy Pair with hot buttered How To enJoy it is best served on its own
crackers, and enjoy with your favorite irish soda bread, or use in a rich blue because it is so unusual, with a good
Chardonnay or cider. sauce for grilled steak or pasta. bottle of red to wash it down.

174 ENGLAND North Brewham, Somerset ENGLAND Inglewhite, Lancashire ENGLAND Lydeard St Lawrence, Somerset
Age 4 weeks Age 9–12 weeks Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), drum
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 81⁄4in (21cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Buffalo
Classification Soft white Classification Blue Classification Blue
Producer Daisy and Co. Producer Butlers Farmhouse Cheese Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company

Buffalo Blue Campscott Capricorn Goat

From the only maker of buffalo blue Middle Campscott Farm in Devon, Lubborn Creamery nestles in a green engLAnD
cheese in yorkshire, this is handmade with fields overlooking the Atlantic somerset Valley and specializes in
from the milk of local water buffalo. Ocean, specializes in organic sheep’s making continental styles of cheeses.
One of judy Bell’s aims in using milk and goat’s cheese. The full-flavored Ripened for seven weeks, this cheese
from sheep and buffalo was to help Campscott is matured for at least two develops a thin delicate white mold rind.
people with dairy allergies. she created months, when it develops a firm TAsTing nOTes Like the goats themselves,
something rather special in the process. texture and thin gray rind. this cheese changes character with age.
TAsTing nOTes it looks light—soft and TAsTing nOTes Unpasteurized milk eaten young, it has a slight nutty
creamy—and it is light, although there allows the characteristics of the flavor; however, as it ripens, this
is, of course, a reminder that it is a seasons to come through: drier with a develops into a salty-sweetness, and
“blue” in its nutty, slightly salty taste. nutty taste in summer; creamier and the paste is softer and creamier.
HOw TO enjOy stir a healthy portion sweeter in winter. HOw TO enjOy Crumble the young cheese
of cheese and a dollop of half and half HOw TO enjOy The younger cheese is into salads, or grill. savor the mature
into a potato soup before liquidizing, excellent on its own; the more mature cheese simply as it comes, with a glass
to produce a deliciously rich and varieties are delicious grated and grilled, of sauvignon Blanc.
creamy broth. or sprinkled over salads or pasta.

ENGLAND Newsham, North Yorkshire ENGLAND Lee, Devon ENGLAND Cricket St Thomas, Somerset 175
Age 8–10 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 7 weeks
Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg) drum Weight and Shape: 21⁄4lb (1kg) and 41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄4oz (120g) cylinder
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 8in (20cm) (2kg), cylinder Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Milk Buffalo Size D. 41⁄4in (10.5cm) and 51⁄2in (14cm), Milk Goat
Classification Blue H. 4in (10cm) and 6in (15cm) Classification Soft white
Producer Shepherds Purse Cheeses Milk Ewe Producer Lubborn Creamery
Classification Hard
Producer Middle Campscott Farm

Cerney Pyramid Cheshire Cornish Blue

greAT BrITAIn AnD IreLAnD Handsome and fresh, this eye-catching A cheese woven into the fabric of In 2001 Philip and Carol stansfield,
cheese is made by hand from a recipe english history, Cheshire was looking for a way to diversify their
developed by Lady Angus of Cerney: a mentioned in the Domesday Book. dairy farm, spotted the gap in the
full-fat Valençay-type cheese from a since the cattle were grazed on salt market for a young blue cheese that
unique starter culture. It is coated with marshes, the salt content caused the could compete with imported blue
oak ash and a sea salt mix from France, cheese to ripen slowly and gave it a cheese. This mild blue was the result,
and shaped into a truncated pyramid. crumbly texture. Available white, most and the stansfields have since won
TAsTIng noTes Luxuriously smooth, with are coloured with annatto. many awards.
a creamy texture, it exudes a fresh, TAsTIng noTes Dense, slightly dry with a TAsTIng noTes with a creamy texture
clean taste with floral notes. It is far very fine crumbly texture and a mild like gorgonzola and thick streaks of
milder than expected from a goat’s fresh acidity, Cheshire has a savory, blue, it is surprisingly mild and sweet,
cheese, but develops as it matures. salty tang that lingers in the mouth. becoming spicier and tangier as it ages.

How To enjoy A striking addition to the How To enjoy grill it (as in traditional How To enjoy Perfect for pepping
cheeseboard, this black-and-white welsh rarebit), bake it, crumble it in up—but not overpowering—risotto,
truncated pyramid is heavenly with soups and salads, or marry it with a sauces, appetizers, and more; it goes
crackers and a dry white wine. glass of real ale. beautifully with fruit and a glass of
Champagne.
176 ENGLAND South Cerney, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Today produced in Cheshire,
Age 1 month Shropshire, and Wales ENGLAND Liskeard, Cornwall
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), pyramid Age 2–6 months Age 14 weeks
Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 481⁄2lb (22kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb (6kg), round
Milk Goat Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 101⁄2in (26cm) Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 7in (18cm)
Classification Fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Cerney Cheese Classification Hard Classification Blue
Producer Various Producer Cornish Cheese Company

Cotherstone Curworthy Daylesford Cheddar

Cotherstone and similar cheeses were With its own natural rind or, more Created in 2001 by joe Schneider for engLanD
once common in the wild and beautiful strikingly, a black wax coating, the Lady Bamford, using organic milk from
Pennines, but today—at Quarry Farm traditional Curworthy is based on a the Daylesford estate in the Cotswolds,
on the banks of the river Tees— joan 17th-century cheese and uses milk and made in a modern creamery next
Cross is the only remaining producer of from the farm’s herd of Friesian cows. to the Daylesford Farmshop. Made like
this cheese, thanks to a recipe handed The cheese is one of six varieties traditional Cheddar, this has won
down to her by her mother. produced by Rachel Stephens at various awards, including Best english
TaSTing noTeS Cotherstone’s interior is Stockbeare Farm in Devon. Cheese in 2002.
pale yellow, moist, crumbly, and fatty, TaSTing noTeS The texture is dense and TaSTing noTeS Hard yet chewy, this has
and it develops a buttery richness of chewy, with a lovely buttery feel when a rich full-bodied tang that mellows out
flavor that is edged with a fruity tang young, and it matures into a more to a savory lingering finish that hints
on the finish. tangy, peppery flavor. of green grass and toffee.

HoW To enjoy The signature tanginess HoW To enjoy it is ideal on a HoW To enjoy Versatile in cooking, but it
goes well with a variety of wines, but in cheeseboard or served with an alsace also stands proud on any cheeseboard
the Dales they favor a glass of dark gewürztraminer, which will complement paired with a not-too-tannic red wine,
stout as the requisite accompaniment. Curwothy’s young, buttery flavor. such as a Pinot noir or Merlot.

ENGLAND Teesdale, County Durham ENGLAND Okehampton, Devon ENGLAND Daylesford, Gloucestershire 177
Age 1–3 months Age 2–6 months Age 9–18 months
Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1–5lb (450g–2.2kg), Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg), truckle
(500g–3kg), millstone drum Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 16in (40cm)
Size D. 3–81⁄2in (7.5–22cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2–8in (9–20cm), H. 21⁄2–4in Milk Cow
Milk Cow (6–10cm) Classification Hard
Classification Hard Milk Cow Producer Daylesford Organic Creamery
Producer Cotherstone Cheese Classification Hard
Producer Curworthy Cheese

Doddington Dorset Blue Vinny Double Gloucester

greaT BriTaiN aND ireLaND Made at Doddington Dairy, situated at once upon a time, every self-respecting This iconic cheese can be traced back to
the bottom of the Cheviot Hills, this Dorset farmhouse made this cheese— the 15th century, when severn Vale
cheese is described by its makers Neill an excellent use for milk left over from farmers made it from famed Cotswold
and Jackie Maxwell as lying somewhere the buttermaking. But with changing sheep. gradually, milk from gloucester
between a Leicester and Cheddar. They times, the recipe itself nearly died out, cows replaced it. Today, it is made
have been making ice cream and until Mike Davies revived it in the throughout england, but not
cheeses since 1990 after learning their 1980s. He makes it with a combination necessarily with gloucester milk.
craft in the Netherlands and France. of skim and full fat milk, so it is more TasTiNg NoTes with a leathery rind, this
TasTiNg NoTes an attractive brick-red moist than the original. hard cheese has a strong, savory, and
rind and a hard, compact, slightly dry TasTiNg NoTes as it is unpasteurized and mellow flavor. it is made with full-fat
texture, with a rich, sweet caramel the butterfat content of the milk varies milk and colored deep orange with
taste and a long-lasting nuttiness. according to the time of year, this cheese annatto seeds.
How To eNJoy serve with fruit and nuts, is sometimes crumbly and sometimes How To eNJoy eat plain, cook with it, or
wrapped in warm bread, or grated over creamy; nutty but not too strong. watch it being rolled down Coopers Hill
salads or pasta, along with a medium- How To eNJoy Try with traditional in gloucester in May, as per tradition.
bodied red wine such as a Merlot. Dorset knob biscuits and a sweet cider.

178 ENGLAND Wooler, Northumberland ENGLAND Stock Gaylard, Dorset ENGLAND All over
Age 12–14 months Age 12–14 weeks Age Around 4 months
Weight and Shape 11lb and 22lb, drum Weight and Shape 13lb (6kg), round Weight and Shape Various, wheel
Size D. 9in (23cm) and 121⁄2in (32cm), Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size Various
H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Hard
Classification Hard Producer Mike Davies, Woodbridge Farm Producer Various
Producer Doddington Dairy

Duddleswell Exmoor Blue PGI Fairlight

You would expect a delicious cheese ian Arnett makes a range of traditional The free-range, mainly British saanen eNgLAND
from a farm set in a region officially handmade hard and soft blue-veined goats on this farm are raised along
designated as an Area of Outstanding cheeses with vegetarian rennet, using biodynamic principles, producing a
Natural Beauty. The Hardy family local cow, sheep, goat, and buffalo salt-free fresh cheese in a traditional
started High Weald Dairy in 1988, in milk. exmoor Blue is the only one way. Made fresh every day, and hung in
the beautiful surroundings of Ashdown with Pgi status, which means that muslin, it offers a mild purity that is
Forest; Duddleswell has echoes of it is made according to strict guidelines, universally appealing.
traditional Dales cheeses, with all the including using local unpasteurized TAsTiNg NOTes Fresh and clean, with a
nutritional benefits of ewe’s milk. jersey milk. soft, silky texture, it is also available
TAsTiNg NOTes smooth and creamy with TAsTiNg NOTes Balance is the key to this rolled in organic cracked pepper
a sweet, nutty release, Duddleswell is semi-soft blue veined cheese, where the (Peasmarsh); in garlic pepper, parsley,
a hard-pressed cheese with a thin and zing of the blue still allows other subtle, and salt crumb (icklesham); and
leathery natural rind. mildly salty flavors to reach the palate. infused with fresh chives (Winchelsea).

HOW TO eNjOY Feature as part of a HOW TO eNjOY Partake with simple HOW TO eNjOY spread on bread or a
cheeseboard, or instead of pecorino; appreciation on the cheeseboard and, if cracker, use it in a salad or in cooking,
great with pasta or topping a salad. you can find it, somerset cider brandy. or try it in a cheesecake recipe.

ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex ENGLAND Taunton, Somerset ENGLAND Hastings, East Sussex 179
Age 3–4 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 6 days
Weight and Shape 7lb (3.2kg), truckle Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), log
Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 23⁄4–31⁄4in (7–8cm) 23⁄4lb (1.25kg), flat round Size L. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Milk Ewe Size D. 43⁄4in (12cm) and 7in (18cm), Milk Goat
Classification Hard H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classification Fresh
Producer High Weald Dairy Milk Cow Producer Hollypark Organics
Classification Blue
Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company

Cheddar

The story of Cheddar can be traced back to the Romans who
introduced hard cheeses to Britain. It was the feudal system,
however, that led to the development of the large, buxom
traditional British cheeses because it placed the majority of
land in the hands of a few great landowners who could afford
to make very large cheeses.

Yet, it was not until the 16th century TasTinG noTes To taste an
that this hard cheese made in the unpasteurized, clothbound cheddar
Mendip Hills near the Cheddar Gorge made from the milk of cows whose diet
in Somerset became known as is fresh grass, clover, buttercups, and
Cheddar. The lush grazing, rolling hills daisies, is to taste a piece of England.
and natural caves offered the ideal The bite is firm but yielding like
conditions for large herds and meant chocolate, the aroma earthy and
the cheesemakers tended to make slightly savory. The flavor differs from
huge 60–120lb (27–54kg) cheeses farm to farm, but there is always the
requiring 2–3 years to mature. rich sweetness of the milk, a classic
acidity, sometimes nutty, often with an
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND explosion of flavor in the mouth and a
lingering cheese and onion tang.

The rolling hills of England’s West Country. hoW To enjoy For generations, Exterior
Cheddar has been an integral part of The fine gray mold that grows over the cloth
Since then it has been emulated the English diet, in sandwiches, as reduces the moisture loss so that the cheese
quick snacks, in lunches, or displayed can develop its characteristic hard, dense,
throughout the world, especially in huge wedges on cheese platters, creamy texture and earthy aroma.
embellished with pickled walnuts, and
180 Canada, Australia, and New Zealand crusty bread. It is also superb in a Closer looK
where the majority is made in blocks sauces, melted over baked potatoes, or
grated over numerous vegetable dishes Cheddar can be sold as young as six
rather than elegant clothbound and broiled. Best with a Merlot or months, when it has a softer texture
Pinot Noir, but avoid Clarets, as they and mild, almost buttery taste. At
cylinders. But only those made from have too much tannin. 12 months, the texture is firmer,
almost chewy, and the taste is more
cows that graze the green and Farmhouse Cheddar intense. At 18 months, the texture is
drier, sometimes with crunchy calcium
verdant hills of England truly Although the texture and quality of crystals and the flavor more savory.
block cheddar has improved enormously
deserve the name Cheddar. in recent years, it can never achieve the Wedge
same hardness and depth of flavor as those
ENGLAND Dorset, Devon, and Somerset made by hand with the raw milk of a
Age 6–24 months single farm. The following produce prime
Weight and Shape 56lb (26kg), cylinder examples of excellent farmhouse Cheddar.
or block
Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 101⁄2in (26cm) ashley Chase dairy, Dorset
Milk Cow Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company,
Classification Hard Somerset
Producer Various
denhay Cheddar, Dorset
Green’s of Glastonbury, Somerset
Keen’s, Somerset
montgomery’s, Somerset
Quickes Traditional Cheeses, Devon
Westcombe Cheddar, Somerset

CHEDDARing To create the Milling The flattened bricks are
unique texture of Cheddar, the mass of then milled or “minced” to finger-sized
curds is molded into brick-sized blocks pieces and pitched by hand using
and piled two bricks high. This process giant forks to aerate and cool the curd
is repeated every 15–20 minutes until before salting.
the bricks flatten out, the acidity rises,
and more whey is forced out.

ENGLAND

The interior is a soft 181
sunshine butter-yellow Interior

color with an orange
tinge as it ages.

Farleigh Wallop Finn Flower Marie

gReAT BRiTAin AnD iReLAnD Produced by Peter Humphries at White Charlie Westhead, Haydn Roberts, and Kevin and Alison Blunt produce this
Lake Cheeses in Somerset, and created their team produce cheeses in a dairy unique ewe’s milk cheese, with its soft
by Alex James (Blur bassist) and Juliet atop Dorstone Hill, with glorious views rind and moist interior that is often
Harbutt (chairman British Cheese over the Wye Valley towards the Black compared to the feel of melting ice
Awards), this lovely Camembert-style Mountains. As with French double- cream. They have been making cheese
cheese is decorated with a sprig of cream cheeses, ten percent additional on the farm since 1989; this one lives
thyme, pressed into the velvety crust. cream is added to the milk before up to its name—demure-looking, but
TASTing noTeS Uncomplicated yet far the cheesemaking begins, giving it a with a suggestion of naughtiness,
from overly simple, this lovely-looking creamy riches. captured in a lemony freshness.
cheese liquefies with age, exuding hints TASTing noTeS inside its creamy-white TASTing noTeS: The sweetness of the
of mushroom and thyme, with a gentle rind lies a soft but firm cheese with a ewe’s milk lends a caramel subtlety
almondy nuttiness on the finish. creamy acidity, a salty-sweet mingling, that is gentle and moist, while the rind
HoW To enJoy enjoy it as is—a visual and a hint of mushrooms. has a mushroomy taste and aroma.
pleasure, too—or try it in a light-as-air HoW To enJoy Bake with it, or savor the HoW To enJoy Serve it spread on a chunk
soufflé or grilled over roasted beetroot extra richness set off to perfection by of fresh, soft crusty bread, accompanied
with a dry new Zealand Riesling. the plainest of crackers. by a glass of fine port.

182 ENGLAND Glastonbury, Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex
Age 4–6 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 4–5 weeks
Weight and Shape 4oz (125g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square
Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Classification Soft white
Producer White Lake Cheeses Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company

Fowlers Forest Blue Golden Cross Hereford Hop

Fowlers can lay claim to the title of Kevin and alison Blunt’s herd of 300 The lightly roasted hops give this England
oldest cheesemaking family business in goats grazes outside all summer and cheese its instantly recognizable
England, the keepers of cheesemaking enjoys a diet of hay all year round, which appearance, but it is the skill of the
secrets whispered down through the contributes to continuing success at the almost-legendary Charles Martell that
generations. They are also proud of the British Cheese awards. From their milk ensures the quality under the surface.
high-calcium water from the 1,000-ft comes a st Maure-style cheese, each log He has also helped to preserve rare
(300-m) borehole, which adds to the lightly dusted with charcoal and breed gloucester cattle and to revive
cheese’s flavor and texture. matured to a creamy, full flavor. interest in perry, which is like cider, but
TasTing noTEs This is a handcrafted TasTing noTEs sweeter in taste than you made with local pears.
traditional blue cheese, which matures might expect, it is soft and delicate, and TasTing noTEs Mellow sweetness is
in humidity-controlled cellars. soft- redolent of those grassy pastures that thrown into relief by the aroma and
rinded, firm, and creamy, it is lightly the goats so enjoy. taste of the cheese’s coat of hops, like a
veined, salty, and mildly tangy. How To Enjoy Complemented by celery hint of beer permeating through.
How To Enjoy Melt together with on a cheeseboard, it is also an excellent How To Enjoy a delightful addition to
warwickshire ale and worcestershire cheese for all sorts of dishes, thanks to the cheeseboard, particularly with a
sauce, and spread on toast. its gorgeous texture. dollop of homemade apple chutney.

ENGLAND Earlswood, West Midlands ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex ENGLAND Dymock, Gloucestershire 183
Age 3 months Age 3–4 weeks Age 10–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (225g), log Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), round
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size L. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Blue Classification Soft white Classification Flavor-added
Producer Fowlers of Earlswood Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company Producer Charles Martell & Son

Innes Button Isle of Wight Blue Keltic Gold

gReAT BRITAIN ANd IReLANd This tiny unpasteurized goat’s cheese, guernsey cows that munch on the Full of pungency and character all at
made by Stella Bennett, was the first riches of the Isle of wight’s fertile the same time, this cheese from Sue
cheese ever to win Supreme Champion Arreton Valley help give this tangy yet Proudfoot is rind-washed three times a
twice at the British Cheese Awards. It mellow cheese its creamy texture. week with local cider until it is ripe.
is now a favorite of culinary gurus such Richard Hodgson gave up a career as a The resulting sticky terra-cotta rind
as Anton Mosimann and Nigel Slater, film editor to make cheese, while his should not be ignored, but instead form
and top London cheese shops. mother, julie, joined him after selling part of the pleasure of the eating.
TASTINg NoTeS Perfection itself—soft, the family’s small hotel. TASTINg NoTeS Prepare to be deluged by
almost mousse-like, it melts in the TASTINg NoTeS A thick gray molded rind layers of delicious notes, varying from
mouth, releasing its lemony freshness hides a mellow, nutty paste, which is bacon to yeast, with distinct nuttiness
with hints of walnuts and white wine smooth in texture with a slight spicy in between and farmyardy finish.
on the finish. Available with ash, pink bite from the blue. How To eNjoy Make a vegetarian version
peppercorns, or chopped nuts. How To eNjoy Simply enjoy it as it comes of a Cornish pasty with apple, onion,
How To eNjoy Savor on its own, spread or as part of a cheeseboard, or layer it and sage wrapped around Keltic gold,
on soft, warm bread, or grill and serve with slices of fresh pear for rather or melt it with a little freshly grated
with a Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. special party canapés. nutmeg for an alpine-style fondue.

184 ENGLAND Tamworth, Staffordshire ENGLAND Sandown, Isle of Wight ENGLAND Bude, Cornwall
Age 3–7 days Age 3–5 weeks Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), button Weight and Shape 8oz (230g), drum Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Fresh Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft
Producer Innes Cheese Producer Isle of Wight Cheese Company Producer Whalesborough Farm Foods

Lancashire Lincolnshire Poacher Little Ryding

One of the great “territorial” cheeses of Once a traditional folk song, it is now Previously made by Mary Holbrook of EngLand
England, Lancashire comes in three also a cheese invented by simon jones Timsbury, it is now made by the
main styles: creamy, tasty, and crumbly, and made with his brother Tim. It was Bartlett brothers, to whom she sold her
the latter being a fast-ripening and originally a brilliant solution to the recipe after deciding to concentrate on
high-acid recent creation. Its history abundant supplies of spring milk from goat’s cheese. In 2004, using milk from
goes back as far as the 13th century, their herd of Holsteins, and has become their own flock, james and david’s first
when every farmer’s wife made use of a much-loved modern British cheese. It cheese went on sale, to great applause.
surplus milk. was supreme Champion at the British TasTIng nOTEs Handmade with a
TasTIng nOTEs Made by combining the Cheese awards in 1996. Camembert-like rind and creamy
curd from three consecutive days, it has TasTIng nOTEs This is similar to an middle, this is like traditional British
a mottled appearance, soft, vaguely excellent mature Cheddar-style cheese. sunday lunch on a plate, with flavors of
lumpy feel in the mouth, and buttery Hard and chewy, lively and complex, it burnt onions and roast lamb, and yet a
richness balanced by an oniony tang. offers a full taste experience. caramel sweetness, too.

HOw TO EnjOy Its meltingly smooth, even HOw TO EnjOy Eat it plain, grate it, melt HOw TO EnjOy: serve simply with thin
consistency makes it ideal for anything it, or bake it with onions, bacon, and crackers and a side order of homemade
from cheese on toast to tasty pies. potatoes for a fine gratin. caramelized onion chutney.

ENGLAND Around the Forest of Bowland, ENGLAND Alford, Lincolnshire ENGLAND North Wootton, Somerset 185
Lancashire Age 12–24 months Age 3–8 weeks
Age 4–12 weeks for “creamy”; 12-plus Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round
weeks for “tasty” Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 9in (23cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm)
Weight and Shape 411⁄2lb (19kg), cylinder Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 10in (25cm) Classification Hard Classification Soft white
Milk Cow Producer FW Read & Sons Ltd Producer Wootton Organic Dairy
Classification Hard
Producer Various

Little Wallop Lord of the Hundreds New Forest Blue

gReAT BRITAIn AnD IReLAnD It was a big move for Juliet Harbutt, Radiating out from the hamlet of gwyn and ness Williams use pure
founder of the British Cheese Awards, stonegate are the slopes of the Rother Ayrshire milk from a herd grazed on
to establish her own cheese label; being Valley, a landscape that leaves clues of the Hampshire Downs; it is, they say,
who she is, she had to get it right. In its many qualities within the subtleties “the best milk we have ever tasted, and
partnership with columnist and of this cheese. Cheesemaker Cliff fantastic for cheesemaking”. The
musician Alex James, that’s exactly Dyball gave up a career in London as recipes for their cheeses—including
what she has done. an insurance broker for rewards of a this excellent example—are designed to
TAsTIng noTes Produced exclusively for different kind. bring out the milk’s charmingly
them by White Lake Cheese, Little TAsTIng noTes It has a rustic reddish idiosyncratic characteristics.
Wallop is washed in local cider brandy brown rind, dusted with gray, and a TAsTIng noTes It has a light blue touch,
and wrapped in vine leaves. When compactly satisfying density within. with an attractive sharpness from that
young, it exudes a mild, creamy Think pecorino; expect a dry, grainy extra blue tang.
freshness, which later matures into a texture, with mild nuttiness alongside HoW To enJoy Pep up risotto, crumble
nutty, distinctly goaty complexity. a deep burnt caramel sweetness. over salads, or savor the full taste of
HoW To enJoy A beautiful-looking cheese HoW To enJoy The maker recommends “Ayrshire” by serving this cheese as
to grace any cheeseboard. quince jelly as the perfect complement. simply as possible.

186 ENGLAND Glastonbury, Somerset ENGLAND Stonegate, East Sussex ENGLAND Redlynch, Wiltshire
Age 3–6 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 6–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2–101⁄2lb Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg),
Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) (2.5–4.8kg), round cylinder
Milk Goat Size D. 7–91⁄2in (18–24cm), H. 3–41⁄2in Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm)
Classification Natural rind (7.5–11cm) Milk Cow
Producer White Lake Cheese Milk Ewe Classification Blue
Classification Hard Producer Loosehanger Cheeses
Producer The Traditional Cheese Dairy

Norsworthy Northumberland Ogleshield

Originally a naval engineer from it was a book about sheep and their when Cheddar cheesemaker Jamie eNgLaND
Durham, Dave Johnson now has his cheeses that first set Mark Robertson Montgomery had two americans to
own herd of 180 goats in Devon and along the artisan cheese road in 1984, stay, they all spent some enjoyable
makes a series of hard and soft cheeses. and he received so much support and hours using his Jersey milk in various
Based on a Dutch recipe, Norsworthy is encouragement that he ended up “experiments”. Thus Jersey shield was
made from unpasteurized milk using diversifying into goats and cows. Over born. Bill Oglethorpe at Neal’s yard
the Dutch washed-curd method. the years, he has taken inspiration Dairy then began another round of
TasTiNg NOTes its pleasant and mild from various sources. experiments, using the washed-rind
taste deepens and lingers. Matured for TasTiNg NOTes a gouda-style cheese, it is technique to arrive at this cheese.
a month, it develops a fine crusty brown smooth, moist, mild, and creamy, with TasTiNg NOTes Beneath the orange rind
rind and a white paste within that hints of green grass and red onions. is a yellow heart with an aroma as
becomes more crumbly as it ripens. also available in flavored versions. robust as its flavor—onion soup and
HOw TO eNJOy Delicious served with a HOw TO eNJOy The perfect choice for yeasty bread. a cheese to get to know.
chunk of fresh crusty country-style making traditional Northumberland HOw TO eNJOy Think of raclette; this is an
bread, accompanied by an english pale pan haggerty, with its layers of potato, excellent west Country alternative that
ale or a Merlot. onion, and grated cheese. melts like a dream.

ENGLAND Norsworthy, Devon ENGLAND Blagdon, Northumberland ENGLAND North Cadbury, Somerset 187
Age 1 month Age 12 weeks Age 4–5 months
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2.5kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.3kg), round Weight and Shape 121⁄4lb (5kg) wheel
round Size D. 9in (20cm), H. 71⁄2in (3cm) Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Classification Semi-soft Producer Northumberland Cheese Producer JA & E Montgomery
Producer Norsworthy Dairy Goats Company

Old Sarum Old Winchester Oxford Isis

greAT BriTAin AnD irelAnD With this dairy’s cheeses, you know Mike and judy Smales, who have been Created by Harley Pouget and his
that the Ayrshire cow’s milk will making their cheeses for eight years, father, who is best known for his
produce that characteristic smooth-as- came up with Old Winchester—still Oxford Blue, this cheese is lightly
velvet texture. Old Sarum comes in the creamy, but with “subtle nuttiness”—to washed with five-year-old full-flavored
form of a tall, elegant cylinder with a satisfy customers who were looking for locally produced mead (made from
natural gray-brown rind, a moist a fuller flavored cheese. it is also fermented honey) that continues to
interior, and blue-gray veins amid a known as Old Smales. mature in the bottle.
yellow paste. TASTing nOTeS Old Winchester’s hard, TASTing nOTeS The sticky orange rind
TASTing nOTeS in the tradition of the smooth crust protects the hard, almost has a pervasive aroma that is both
italian soft blue cheese Dolcelatte, this brittle warm yellow interior, with its spicy and pungent, while the interior is
is a sweet-tasting blue that melts in distinctive nuttiness and lasting velvety, almost runny, with a sweet
the mouth like rich, spicy butter. salty-sweet finale. yeasty taste from the mead.
HOW TO enjOy As an indulgent lunchtime HOW TO enjOy Use as either a table HOW TO enjOy Serve on a cheeseboard
treat, serve in a crusty baguette with cheese or a vegetarian alternative to with crusty bread and, if you can find
crispy, preferably rare-breed bacon. hard italian cheeses. it, a glass of mead.

188 ENGLAND Redlynch, Wiltshire ENGLAND Landford, Wiltshire ENGLAND Oxford, Oxfordshire
Age 6–8 weeks Age 16 months Age 6–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), tall Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg), boulder Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round
cylinder Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Classification Blue Producer Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers Producer Oxford Cheese Company
Producer Loosehanger Cheeses

Pendragon Penyston Perroche

Philip Rainbow, one of a handful of The Friesians of Daylesford organic These elegant individual cylinders, englAnD
producers in Britain to use buffalo’s enjoy the clean, unspoiled pastures of available plain or rolled in fresh herbs,
milk, makes this firm Cheddar-style this timeless part of england; you can use milk from a farm near Ashleworth
cheese. Pendragon takes its name from even taste the seasons in the cheese. in gloucestershire. Although now
strong historical connections Somerset Penyston might call to mind the produced by Charlie westhead, Haydn
has with the Arthurian myths. It is also popular norman cheese Pont l’evêque, Roberts, and the team, the cheese’s
available lightly smoked. but it has its own distinguishing name derives from the creamery’s
TASTIng noTeS The hard, waxy yellow features and is mild for a washed rind. previous managers, Perry james and
paste has a mild sweetness and its TASTIng noTeS Described as delivering Beatrice garroche.
understated character appeals to those “waves of flavor”, the cheese leads from TASTIng noTeS gently does it with this
who like a clean flavor. Being made a meaty aroma to a full-bodied orange process, resulting in a light, mousse-
with buffalo milk means that the stickiness as it ages. like texture with a subtle goaty taste
cheese is admirably low in cholesterol. How To enjoy Use in an upmarket and clean, almondy finish.
How To enjoy Assemble a sophisticated cheese and tomato sandwich, How To enjoy Delia Smith herself makes
cheeseboard, using Pendragon to give preferably made with a loaf of organic a point of recommending Perroche as a
variety among cow’s and goat’s cheeses. country-style bread. beautifully mild cheese that grills well.

ENGLAND Ditcheat, Somerset ENGLAND Daylesford, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire 189
Age 4–12 months Age 8 weeks Age 1 week
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg) and 71⁄2lb Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), square Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), cylinder
(3.5kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm) base, 2in (5cm) top,
Size D. 7in (18cm) and 10in (25cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) H. 23⁄4in (7cm)
H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat’s milk
Milk Buffalo Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh
Classification Hard Producer Daylesford Creamery Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery
Producer Somerset Cheese Company

Posbury Quickes Hard Goat Rachel

gReat bRitaiN aND iRelaND Posbury is a Dutch-style cheese based the Quicke family has farmed the Peter Humphries makes two washed-
on Dave Johnson’s Norsworthy (see same land for more than 450 years. rind cheeses: Morn Dew, with cow’s
p189). Flavored with garlic, onion, aound 40 years ago, sir John and his milk, and this one, made with goat’s
horseradish, and paprika, this flavor- wife, Prue, built the dairy where their milk. it looks distinguished, with its
added cheese shows an excellent daughter Mary continues to produce fine orange leathery rind, dusted with
balance of tastes. cheese, including this recently created white, gray, and even yellow with
tastiNg Notes the orange rind conceals Cheddar-style goat cheese. molds—it is the most popular cheese he
a white paste dotted with holes and tastiNg Notes Firm, almost chewy, it has produces.
orangey flecks. Posbury’s flavor is a subtle goaty taste and an aromatic, tastiNg Notes Rachel is sweet, curvy,
mild and creamy, but the horseraddish almondy tang with a fresh acidity. this and slightly nutty, with a whole raft of
gives it a warm kick on the palate. is an excellent alternative for people taste experiences: rich and tangy,
How to eNJoy this is excellent sandwich with an allergy to cow’s milk. meaty and savory, but with a citric
material, particularly nestled between How to eNJoy this cooks superbly. try sharpness and a sweet nutty finish.
slices of wholemeal bread. wilting spinach or similar greens in a How to eNJoy savor on its own or in a
little water, add with the cheese to a salad, paired with a glass of sancerre
roux of rice flour and milk, then purée. or a single-varietal cider.

190 ENGLAND Norsworthy, Devon ENGLAND Newton St Cyres, Devon ENGLAND Pylle, Somerset
Age 4-plus weeks Age 6–10 months Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2–2.5kg), Weight and Shape 53lb (24kg), truckle Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round
round Size D. 14in (35.5cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm)
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat
Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Classification Flavor-added Producer Quickes Traditional Producer White Lake Cheeses
Producer Norsworthy Dairy Goats

Ragstone Red Leicester Ribblesdale engLAnD
Original Goat
Another great cheese from Charlie named after the city of Leicester, this
Westhead, Ragstone was originally traditional english cheese is made in a The late iain Hill and his wife
made in his first creamery based near similar way to Cheddar, but colored Christine created this fresh, delicate
Sevenoaks in Kent, and it was the with annatto. Prolific by the late cheese, and niece iona now carries on
nearby Ragstone Ridge that lent its eighteenth century, its quality was their work. it is made in the yorkshire
name to this cheese. partly ascribed to the county’s excellent Dales’ Ribble Valley, where the natural
TASTing noTeS The wrinkly rind will call grazing. Farmhouse production in the pastures and high rainfall provide
to mind a Brie, and it is certainly a county had died out by the mid 1900s, excellent grazing for the goats.
lovely-looking product. Creamy yet until 2005 when the Leicestershire
light on the tongue, it has a hint of Handmade Cheese Company revived it. TASTing noTeS With a firm yet supple
mushroomy notes and a lemony tang. TASTing noTeS The distinctive tangerine texture like young gouda, it is
HoW To enjoy This cheese melts coloured interior is dense, waxy, and delicately goaty and has chicory and
superbly. Alternatively, bake in the smooth, with a sweet, mellow nuttiness almond flavors.
oven, drizzled with a little olive oil, that strengthens as it matures.
until it is at melting point. Serve warm HoW To enjoy Serve on toast, in tarts, or HoW To enjoy Serve on its own, grate
and oozy, on a bed of mixed leaves. use it to add color to a cheeseboard. it, melt it, or, above all, bake it with
figs. Works well with an oaky
Chardonnay or Merlot.

ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire ENGLAND Leicestershire ENGLAND Horton-in-Ribblesdale, North 191
Age 3 weeks Age 4–5 months Yorkshire
Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), log Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg) and 44lb Age 8–12 weeks
Size L. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm) (20kg), wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), boulder
Milk Goat Size D. 14in (35.5cm) and 18in (46cm), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Classification Soft white H. 5in (13cm) and 7in (18cm) Milk Goat
Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Milk Cow Classification Hard
Classification Hard Producer Ribblesdale Cheese Company
Producer Various

Stilton PDO a clOSer lOOk

In the early 18th Century, the town of Stilton was a major staging To create the smooth buttery texture
post on the London to York road, and the landlord of the Bell Inn characteristic of Stilton, the freshly
in Stilton started serving a soft, blue-veined cheese made in the drained curds are left to ripen
nearby Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray. overnight, significantly longer
than most other cheeses.

Such was the popularity of the Today, Stilton is one of a handful Jagged blue lines radiate
cheese that Cooper Thornhill, the of British cheeses granted Protected erratically from the
enterprising landlord, was soon Designation Origin (PDO) status by
sending Stilton to London, upward the European Commission. There center to the outside like
of a thousand a week by the mid- are just seven dairies licensed to shattered porcelain.
1700s. The cheese was therefore make Stilton.
gREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND named after the place from which it
was made famous, rather than where TaSTIng nOTeS Each maker’s
it was made. cheese is slightly different, but all are
sharp and aggressive when eaten too
Initially made on small farms, the young and mellow out to a rich, spicy
intricate and time-consuming nature butter taste with hints of cocoa on the
of its production soon influenced finish and sometimes a touch of
Stilton-makers to join forces, and in walnuts or a slight sharp acidity.
1875 the first Stilton was produced
by hand in a small factory. In 1910, HOw TO enjOy Ideal for sauces,
the Stilton Makers Association was dressings, and soups, especially broccoli
registered as a trademark, ensuring or celery soup, baked in a quiche or
the cheese could only be made in the tart, paired with spinach or crumbled
counties of Nottinghamshire, over a grilled steak, or into a salad
Derbyshire, and Leicestershire, and with a sweet balsamic dressing.
This decision ultimately saved the
cheese from mediocrity or even The sweet richness of vintage Port
extinction—the fate of other fine can overpower Stilton. Instead, try a
British fine territorial cheeses. tawny Port or a crisp yet sweet wine
like Montbazillac, but not Sauterne,
192 which is too sweet. Alternatively, try an
aromatic dry Riesling or light beer.

The tradition of pouring Port into
Stilton came about to kill the creatures
that gathered at the bottom of Stilton
bells. Nowadays, with modern
refrigeration, there is no need to spoil
the Stilton or waste good Port.

The Bell Inn, which is in the town of Stilton,
Peterborough, England.

BRITAIN Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire,
and Leicestershire
Age 9–14 weeks
Weight and Shape 17lb (7.5 kg), tall
cylinder
Size D. 8in (20cm), H.12in (30cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Blue
Producer Various

salting The curd is milled before being the Molds The curds are placed
measured into special pans so the salt can be in tall, open-ended, stainless steel,
cylindrical molds and placed on wooden
mixed through by hand. slates where gravity and the weight of
the curd gradually forces out whey
through the holes in the sides of the
hoops and through the bottom. Some
17 gallons (77 liters) of milk are
required to make one 15lb (7.5kg)
Stilton. Once the cheese can stand on its
own, it is removed and the curds allowed
to drain overnight.

Piercing At about 6 weeks, each
cheese is placed on a special stand and
pierced with 18–20 long, narrow
stainless steel needles to allow air to
enter the body of the cheese.

ENGLAND

grading Before being released to 193
the retailers, each batch is graded. An
“iron” is used to bore into the cheese and
extract a plug. By visual inspection and
by smell, the grader can determine
whether the cheese is up to the mark.

Quarter cylinder The rind is dry, rough, and crusty, with
the pierced holes quite visible.
The interior should be straw
yellow, not brown or dull.

gReAT BRiTAin AnD iRelAnD Rosary Plain Sage Derby St. Eadburgha

Chris and Claire Moody began making Derby is one of england’s oldest and The Staceys have farmed at the foot of
cheese in 1986, originally using milk most famous cheeses. The custom of the Cotswolds for more than 35 years,
from their own small herd of goats. As adding finely chopped sage, thought to and named this Camembert-style
they became more successful, however, have health-giving properties, to the cheese after the great-granddaughter
the pair made the pragmatic decision fresh curd began in the 17th century. of Alfred the great, to whom a local
to buy in milk from a herd of pedigree Today, most are factory-made, but the church is dedicated. it is made from the
Saanen goats. Their fresh cheese west Midlands family producer, milk of Montbeliarde and Friesian cows
Rosary Plain is a consistent award- Fowlers of earlswood, still makes Sage that graze in pear orchards and on
winner at the British Cheese Awards. Derby traditionally. lush, grassy pastures.
TASTing noTeS Moist, fresh, meltingly TASTing noTeS Softer than Cheddar, this TASTing noTeS This is at its best when it
soft, and delightfully aromatic, it also pale yellow cheese has a melted butter is soft in the middle, when the flavor
comes in flavored garlic and herb, taste and a delightful, but subtle, becomes more pungent and meaty.
pepper-coated, and ash-coated versions. herbal flavor from the sage. How To enjoy Delicious warmed until
How To enjoy Use as a table cheese, for How To enjoy with its ribbon of herbs, the inside starts to run, or on the
melting or spreading, or add it at the this makes a colorful and distinctive cheeseboard with cider, a light ale, or
last moment to a fluffy omelette. addition to the cheeseboard. a full-bodied red wine.

194 ENGLAND Landford, Wiltshire ENGLAND West Midlands ENGLAND Broadway, Worcestershire
Age 3 days Age 10–20 weeks Age 4–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round Weight and Shape 6oz–61⁄2lb (175g–3kg),
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) round
Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 31⁄2–133⁄4in (9–35cm), H. 11⁄2in
Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added (4cm)
Producer Rosary Goats Cheese Producer Various Milk Cow
Classification Soft white
Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm

St. Endellion St. Oswald Sharpham

Started by two farming families in This cheese, another from Mike Stacey, Reminiscent of a small Brie, Sharpham engLanD
1996, the creamery—which overlooks is named after a former Bishop of is produced by one of the first British
the rugged atlantic coast—has made a Worcester. It is washed in brine and creameries to make this style of cheese.
name for itself with its innovative matured for at least one month, and The estate began making it by hand, to
approach to cheesemaking. This is a the rind changes from yellow to a its own recipe, in 1980, using milk from
Brie-style cheese made with Cornish sticky orange-brown as it matures. the estate’s herd of jersey cows, which
double cream. St. Oswald is the latest addition to this graze beside the river Dart near Totnes.
TaSTIng nOTeS Luxury is the keynote dairy’s repertoire. TaSTIng nOTeS It has a wonderfully
here. as the cheese ripens, the paste TaSTIng nOTeS The smooth, supple paste creamy texture (firm to begin with, but
softens to a wonderful creamy becomes almost runny and has a full, softens with ripening) and a unique
consistency with a full-bodied flavor, rich meaty flavor, with onion notes that depth of intense flavor, with some
fresh tanginess, and hint of mushroom. become stronger as it ages. mushroom character.

HOW TO enjOy Leave loosely wrapped for HOW TO enjOy Serve as it comes with a HOW TO enjOy good on its own, but also
a couple of hours, before serving as part good full-bodied red wine and dried a handsome-looking choice for gracing
of a cheeseboard. It is especially good fruit. Or put a few dollops in among the cheeseboard. Matches well with a
with a spicy white wine. finely sliced potatoes, and bake. red wine from the Sharpham estate.

ENGLAND Trevarrian, Cornwall ENGLAND Broadway, Worcestershire ENGLAND Totnes, Devon 195
Age 6 weeks Age 1–3 months Age 4–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) and 2lb Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) and 51⁄2lb Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg),
3oz (1kg), round (2.5kg), round square and round
Size D. 8in (20cm) and 351⁄2in (90cm), Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 133⁄4in (35cm), Size D. 33⁄4in (9.5cm) and 71⁄4in (19cm),
H. 1in (3cm) and 11⁄2in (3.5cm) H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) H. 11⁄2in (4cm) and 13⁄4in (4.5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
Producer Cornish Country Larder Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm Producer Sharpham Partnership

Sharpham Rustic Shipcord Shropshire Blue

gReAT bRiTAin AnD iRelAnD One of several cheeses produced on this suffolk is not traditionally known as a Rather oddly named, as it was actually
estate, also famous for its outstanding cheesemaking region, so when the first created in inverness, scotland, in
wines, Rustic is made using sweet, rich Richards family, long-standing dairy 1970, this cheese is based on the recipe
milk from the Jersey herd. The curd is farmers, decided to start cheesemaking for stilton with the addition of annatto
placed, unpressed, in a colander to give in 2006, local cheese lovers greeted them giving it its attractive mandarin orange
it its unusual shape and knobbly rind. enthusiastically. each cheese is named color. it was eventually adopted by the
Also available with chives and garlic. after a river meadow on the farm. stilton makers who now make it.

TAsTing nOTes Deep yellow with a TAsTing nOTes The curds and whey are TAsTing nOTes Milder than stilton, but
natural mold-coated rind, this moist scalded, reminiscent of French tommes, equally creamy in texture, its streaks
cheese has a wonderful creamy texture giving the cheese a close texture and a of blue stand out against the orange
and a buttery sweet flavor balanced by “long” creamy amd nutty flavor that interior. There is a hint of caramel
a fresh, gentle acidity. develops a tangy acidity as it matures. sweetness behind its spicy, blue tang.

HOw TO enJOy serve on its own or HOw TO enJOy its creamy texture makes HOw TO enJOy spectacular crumbled into
crumbled over warm asparagus or into it a perfect snacking cheese, along with salads or melted in soups, this cheese is
a roast beetroot and pea shoot salad, crackers, celery, apple, or grapes, but equally at home on a cheeseboard, with
with a glass of cider or fruity red wine. shipcord also melts and grills well. an accompanying port or brown ale.

196 ENGLAND Totnes, Devon ENGLAND Baylham, Suffolk ENGLAND Leicestershire and
Age 6–8 weeks Age 6–12 months Nottinghamshire
Weight and Shape 33⁄4lb (1.7kg), elliptical Weight and Shape 91⁄2–101⁄2lb Age 10–13 weeks
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (4.3–4.8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), cylinder
Milk Cow Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 10in (25cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Sharpham Partnership Classification Hard Classification Blue
Producer Rodwell Farm Dairy Producer Various

Single Gloucester Snodsbury Goat Stichelton enGLAnD
PDO
On their farm in Worcester, Colin and stichelton, the original name for the
One of the few english cheeses with Alyson Anstey produce a range of hard village of stilton, provided leading
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), cow’s milk cheeses based on traditional cheesemaker joe schneider with his
it was rescued from extinction by cheeses that were once made in the inspiration for this cheese. After his
Charles Martell of stinking Bishop county. In 2005, they decided to branch success with Daylesford Cheddar, he
fame. Traditionally, evening milk was out, and created this clothbound goat’s decided to set up his own dairy in 2006
skimmed to make butter, then mixed cheese based on Double Gloucester. and make a blue. Based on the stilton
with full milk the next morning to make TAsTInG nOTes Dense with a smooth recipe, it cannot be called stilton
the cheese. Producers must have at creaminess, it has a distinct almondy because it is made with raw milk.
least one Gloucester cow. nuttiness rather than the more distinct TAsTInG nOTes Creamy white with bold
goaty taste you find in softer goat’s blue streaks, stichelton is complex and
TAsTInG nOTes Firm but yielding, it has a cheeses, with hints of chicory and wild delicious, and moves from a fruitiness
mild, buttery flavor, with subtle hints herbs on the finish. to a spicy sweetness, all carried within
of vanilla and nuts, and a gentle acidity. HOW TO enjOy serve on crackers with a creamy texture.
some home-made pickle, or grate over HOW TO enjOy serve on the cheeseboard,
HOW TO enjOy Best enjoyed with apples salads and soups. with crackers and a glass of port.
or pears and pickled walnuts, served
with perry, a traditional pear cider.

ENGLAND Gloucestershire ENGLAND Worcester, Worcestershire ENGLAND Cuckney, Nottinghamshire 197
Age 2–3 months Age 4–6 months Age 12–14 weeks
Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg), cylinder
Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 81⁄2in (22cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Blue
Producer Various Producer Anstey’s of Worcester Producer Stichelton Dairy

Stinking Bishop Suffolk Gold Sussex Slipcote

GREaT BRITaIN aNd IRElaNd Named after an old variety of pear Creamy milk from this family-run The name derives from an old English
used to make the perry (fermented dairy’s small herd of pedigree Guernsey word meaning a “little” (slip) piece of
pear juice) in which the cheese is cows (graced with names such as “cottage” (cote) cheese, and the organic
washed, Stinking Bishop was created Madge and armilla) is used to make milk used to make it comes from farms
by Charles Martell in 1972. It has this cheese, which is lightly pressed especially selected by this dairy on the
become one of the best-known and and aged to develop a golden rind. edge of ashdown Forest. Traditionally
loved of English washed-rind cheeses, Established in 2004, the dairy also made with cow’s milk, it is given a
and even featured in one of Nick Park’s produces a soft white, blue, and sweeter taste here with ewe’s milk.
Wallace and Gromit films. fresh cheeses. It comes in different flavors, including
TaSTING NoTES Rich and meaty, with a TaSTING NoTES The high butterfat garlic and herb, and peppercorn.
hint of sweetness, it is milder than the content in the Guernsey milk comes TaSTING NoTES Very moist, almost
smell suggests. The supple paste and through in the mild sweetness and mousse-like, it has a lemony fresh tang
sticky golden rind are encapsulated in deep yellow color, while the texture that finishes with sweet notes.
a thin band of wood. is firm with a few small holes. HoW To ENjoy Best spread on bread or
HoW To ENjoy Ideal on the cheeseboard HoW To ENjoy Perfect with oatcakes and biscuits, but also a good addition to a
with pears and a robust red wine. an apple, or melted under the broiler. baked potato or pasta.

198 ENGLAND Dymock, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Coddenham, Suffolk ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex
Age 5–8 weeks Age 10–12 weeks Age 10 days
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and 3lb Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), button
3oz (1.5kg), round Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄4in (5.5cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm)
Size D. 5in (13cm) and 81⁄4in (21cm), Milk Cow Milk Ewe
H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) and 2in (5cm) Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh
Milk Cow Producer Suffolk Farmhouse Cheeses Producer High Weald Dairy
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Charles Martell & Son