Chabichou du Poitou Chaource AOC Charolais
AOC
Said to have been created by the monks This fermier cheese made from goat’s france
This natural-rinded cheese comes from of Pontigny, the name of this soft milk hails from the Bourgogne region.
the Loire, home to the majority of white-rinded cheese comes from the a distinctive-looking cheese, charolais
french goat’s cheeses. It has been town that is the center of that region. It is shaped like a small barrel and often
protected by the aOc label since 1990, was originally sold fresh or demi-sec, displays a characteristic bluish rind.
and its production can be fermier, but now it is preferred as a more mature TaSTInG nOTeS charolais has a firm
cooperative, or industrial. cheese. aOc protected since 1970. and compact paste and a natural rind.
TaSTInG nOTeS Its white, crusty, and faintly sour, it holds a distinct flavor of
TaSTInG nOTeS The thin, white rind, downy rind becomes pigmented with milk and almonds.
with its yellow and blue mold, conceals brown as it ages. It has a creamy HOW TO enJOY Serve with chestnuts
a cheese with a distinct aroma and texture and a milky, fruity flavor with a and walnuts or a loaf of sourdough
a pronounced to sharp flavor, compared faint aroma of mushrooms, becoming bread. fruity wines, such as fleurie,
to other goat’s cheeses. sharper and salty as it matures. are the most appropriate for drinking
HOW TO enJOY Team it with fruity white alongside this cheese.
HOW TO enJOY Delicious with the lively, wines of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, chablis,
fruity red wines of the neuville-de- and Irancy, or fruity reds and rosés.
Poitou, Dissay, and Saint-martin-la-
rivière regions.
FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Saligny, Bourgogne FRANCE Bourgogne 49
Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 2–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), small Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), barrel
Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 21⁄2in (5cm) cylinder Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
Milk Goat Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Classification Soft white Producer Various
Producer Lincet
France
50
PERSILLE DE TIGNES The gradual
development of fine gray, brown, and
white molds are like an intricately woven
spider web, and are actively encouraged by
the cheesemaker because they contribute
to the breakdown of the curd. (See p76).
Chevrotin des Aravis Chevrotin des Bauges Ch’ti Roux france
AOC AOC
The deep tangerine-orange color of this
One of the few washed-rind goat This fermier cheese is produced in the cheese is the result of roucous or
cheeses, chevrotin des aravis is named mountain region of Savoie, known for annatto being added to the milk, and
after the type of milk used and the its magnificent scenery and colorful, the rind being washed with a mix of
Vallée des aravis where it is made. It is diverse natural pastures. This area is dark beer and annatto. ch’ti roux is
similar in appearance and texture to home to many of france’s best-loved one of many cheeses made by the
reblochon; a moist, yellowish-orange cheeses, including reblochon, which family of Bernard-Wierre effroy in the
rind is covered with a fine white mold. chevrotin resembles except that it is nord-Pas-de-calais, from its own cows.
It was granted an aOc in 2002 as the made with goat’s milk. TaSTInG nOTeS This firm-textured
40th member. cheese has quite a powerful, spicy,
TaSTInG nOTeS a thick, rustic rind covers and salty flavor with a long, slightly
TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese has a mild, a smooth, supple, melting paste with peppery finish.
slightly goaty flavor. The fine-textured small irregular eyes. The creamy, sweet HOW TO enJOY a dark beer or a wine from
paste melts slightly at the edges. flavor has a hint of goat. Bourgogne, such as côte de Baune or
Beaujolais, will complement this
HOW TO enJOY It is best paired with a HOW TO enJOY Pair this cheese with flavorsome cheese.
sharp-tasting red wine, such as a a fruity, dry white Savoie wine, such as
Mondeuse or chignin-Bergeron. the roussette.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais 51
Age 2 months Age 21 days Age 4 months
Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), brick
Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 2in (4cm) Size D. 31⁄2–41⁄2in (9–11.5cm), Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), W. 1in (2.5cm), H. 2in
Milk Goat H. 11⁄2in (4cm) (4.5cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. Bernard)
France Clochette Cœur de Neufchâtel Cœur de Touraine
AOC
This name of this goat’s cheese reflects The Loire is famous not only for its
its dramatic-looking shape—clochette neufchâtel is a cow’s milk cheese that great chateaux, but also for its goat’s
translates as “little bell”. It is produced is produced in Haute-normandie, and cheeses. This heart-shaped cheese
in the Poitou-charentes region, which has benefited from the aOc label since (reflecting its name—the “heart” of
is also home to another well-known 1969. as its name suggests, this version Touraine) with its ash-covered rind is
goat’s cheese, chabichou. clochette has is heart-shaped, but it can also be very popular.
a dry and crusty rind of natural mold, found as a small cylinder or brick, TaSTInG nOTeS Like all traditional Loire
but a firm and tender paste. when it is simply called neufchâtel. goat’s cheese, the inside is a bit sticky
TaSTInG nOTeS The pleasant aroma of on the palate and the rind is edible—
dried hay and goats derives from its TaSTInG nOTeS The white rind is dry, including the mold, which is very
mold and from the cellar in which it velvety, and crumbly with a savory. The overall taste is mild; a little
was ripened. It has a smooth texture mushroomy aroma. The paste is firm salty yet mouth-watering.
and a warm, powerful flavor. but slightly grainy, with a subtle milk HOw TO enjOy coeur de Touraine is
HOw TO enjOy eat it warm with olives or taste and salty tang. a real delight with nut bread or raisin
nuts and serve alongside full-bodied bread and a white wine, such as
Burgundy wines. HOw TO enjOy Its flavor works well with a Mont Louis.
good crusty breads; locals like to melt it
on warm bread and eat it for breakfast.
FRANCE Roullet-Saint-Estéphe, FRANCE Haute-Normandie FRANCE Centre
Poitou-Charentes Age 8–10 weeks Age 3 weeks at least
Age 2–3 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), heart Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), heart
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), bell Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size W. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat
52 Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 4in (10cm) Classification Soft white Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Producer Various
Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh
Producer GAEC Jouseaume
Coulommiers Crayeux de Roncq Crémeux du Puy
a more petite member of the Brie The farmer and cheesemaker This soft cheese is injected with blue france
family, coulommiers is produced in Marie-Therese couvreur teamed up mould and is produced in the auvergne
the Ile-de-france region, near Paris. with cheese affineur Philippe Olivier to region, which is renowned for its
a fermier or industrially-produced create this cheese, which is named excellent cheeses. It has a thick blue
cheese, it has a downy white rind that crayeux for its chalky center. Washed rind, which is overlaid by a delicate
is dotted with reddish ferments and regularly with salt water and beer, its layer of white mold.
a supple texture. distinct aroma belies a mild and TaSTInG nOTeS It has a creamy, delicate
TaSTInG nOTeS coulommiers has a rather creamy taste under an orange-colored taste, with a hint of mushrooms and
pronounced tang and leaves a long crust. Produced in very small volume, it flavors of the cave in which it was left
aftertaste. The pale yellow paste is is rarely seen outside the region. to mature.
smooth and melts in the mouth. TaSTInG nOTeS It has a subtle, nutty HOW TO enjOy extremely flavorsome,
HOW TO enjOy Delicious eaten as part of flavor between sweet and acid, which with a texture not unlike reblochon,
a cheeseboard at the end of the meal, or leaves a pleasing, unusual aftertaste. crémeux du Puy makes a popular
for lunch. It is best served with lively HOW TO enjOy The best match for this addition to any cheeseboard. Serve this
and fruity red wines, such as a cheese is a structured red wine, such as delicious cheese with some fresh, crusty
côtes-de-Beaune. a Médoc or Graves. bread and a glass of côtes-du-rhône.
FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Ile-de-France FRANCE Roncq, Nord-Pas de Calais FRANCE Haute-Loire, Auvergne 53
Age 4–8weeks Age 2 months Age 6–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 15oz (425g), square Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), disc
Size D. 5in (12cm), H 1in (2.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 2in Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow (4.5cm) Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer Nugier, Dongé dairies Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Producer Marie-Therese Couvreur
France Crottin de Chavignol Curé Nantais Dauphin
AOC
this cheese is believed to have been It is said that when Louis XIV was
It has an unfortunate name because introduced to the Pays de la Loire travelling through the Hainaut (in
crottin literally means horse dung, but region by a Vendéen monk who was modern Belgium) with the Dauphin,
this is actually a reference to the shape enduring the food shortage of the his son and heir, he liked this cheese so
and color of this cheese when at full French revolution. now it is produced much that he asked local cheesemakers
maturity. However, most are sold much by a dairy that respects the traditional to name the cheese in his son’s honor.
younger when the rind is pale brown- methods of making it. It is also known this distinctive cheese’s washed,
white. aOc protected since 1976. as Fromage du Pays nantais dit reddish rind encases a semi-soft paste.
du curé. tastIng nOtes a member of the
tastIng nOtes Known for its piquant tastIng nOtes a strong-tasting cheese Maroilles family, this is a strong, spicy,
taste, it can be eaten at various stages. with a soft and slightly elastic golden and aromatic cheese flavored with
When young, it is tender in texture, paste, featuring a few small holes. tarragon, parsley, pepper, and cloves.
becoming harder, dry, crumbly, and HOW tO enJOY It tastes delicious served HOW tO enJOY this full-flavored cheese
sharp as it ages. with crusty bread and onion relish. makes an interesting addition to any
accompany it with a fruity Muscadet, cheeseboard and is best paired with
HOW tO enJOY Best paired with the most such as a Melon Blanc. a robust wine, such as côtes-du-rhône.
vigorous full-bodied wines to enjoy the
flavor of both wine and cheese.
FRANCE Centre FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Age 1 month Age 2–3 months
Age Best around 2 months Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), dolphin
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size L. 5in (12.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), small drum Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added
54 Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Producer Curé Nantais dairy Producer Various
Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
Deauville Délice des Cabasses Dôme de Vézelay
This modern french cheese combines The term délice, meaning “delight”, will This is a raw-milk fermier cheese that france
attributes from two of normandie’s give you a clue to the qualities of this is produced in very small volume and
most famous washed-rind cheeses: very fresh, soft ewe’s milk cheese made therefore rarely found outside the
Pont l’evêque and Livarot. In spite of in the Pyrénées. It is a legitimate name Yonne region. It is distinctive in its
that, Deauville also has its own unique for such an enticing cheese. unusual shape, which is, as indicated
character and style. TaSTInG nOTeS With a pleasing yet by its name, that of a dome.
TaSTInG nOTeS The rich and flowery unobtrusively mild taste, Délice des TaSTInG nOTeS Vézelay has a natural
qualities of the cows’ grazing pastures cabasses is fresh, delicate, and has a rind and a fine, mellow paste. It has
comes through in the flavor of this subtle sweetness. It is best enjoyed in a subtle flavor that is later echoed by a
slightly milky semi-soft cheese, which the spring or summer months. spicier aftertaste.
has a sticky and supple texture.
HOW TO enJOY Some apple marmalade HOW TO enJOY This cheese can find a HOW TO enJOY This cheese combines well
and a glass of fresh cider make the place in any meal—from fruity to with sweet flavors such as honey or fig
perfect accompaniments to this salty—and is delicious served with a jam and with fruity and aromatic white
tasty cheese. fresh and simple-tasting light wine. wines such as a chablis, a Mâcon blanc
or a Meursault.
FRANCE Normandie FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Bourgogne (Yonne) 55
Age 7 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 10 days at least
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), dome
Size D. 5in (12cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Fresh
Producer Fromagerie Thebault Producer M. Dombres Producer Various
Comté AOC A ClOser lOOk
This ancient french cheese, also known as Gruyere de comté, has Local affineurs take the young cheeses
been made in small village-based cooperative dairies, or fruitière, for from the frutière and, with a love of
over eight centuries. This system has created a sense of solidarity their craft and centuries of knowledge,
and pride, and has preserved the traditions and the small- coax the very best from each cheese.
scale production techniques that have helped ensure comté
continues to be one of france’s most popular cheeses.
It takes about 120 gallons (530 liters) native breeds of cow that must be rind comté is recognized
of milk to make just one 80lb (35kg) used: the native Montbéliarde cow, by its thin, beige rind.
comté wheel, the daily yield of 30 known for its sweet milk, makes up
france cows. On average, each fruitière has around 95 percent of the herds, the
19 members or local dairy farms, rest are french Simmental cows.
located within an eight-mile radius.
During spring, the meadows, a
The method, and the area in which blaze of colorful flowers, echo with
comté is made, has not changed for the clanging bells as the cows return
centuries, and is now defined by from winter in the valleys. During
appellation d’Origine contrôlée the winter, the cows are fed on a diet
(aOc) regulations as the rugged of hay cut from the summer pastures.
mountains and wide plateaux of the
Massif du Jura, a region which spans TAsTing nOTes each fruitière
the Jura, the Doubs (both of which has its own distinct profile that
are in the franche-comté), and the reflects the soil, climate, and flora
ain (in the rhône-alpes). where the cows graze—from
melted butter, milk chocolate,
It is the richness and diversity of hazelnuts, and fudge to aromas
its mountain pastures and markedly of toast, plum jam, leather,
different seasons that give comté its pepper, and dark chocolate,
unique flavor along with the two others can be more reminiscent
of butterscotch and hazelnuts
and even sweet oranges.
56 HOw TO enjOy The french
enjoy comté at virtually any
The milk of the Montbéliarde cow is known for time of day. as it melts well, it can
its sweetness. be found in numerous french dishes
from quiches, soups, and gratins
FRANCE Franche-Comté, and Rhône-Alpes to fondue, sauces, and salads.
Age 4–18 months Its creamy texture and fruity
Weight and Shape 77–88lb (35–40kg), tang marries well with fish and
wheel white meat and the local Jura
Size D. 24–28in (60–70cm), H. 4in (10cm) wines or chardonnay, chenin
Milk Cow Blanc, or Viognier.
Classification Hard
Producer Various
grading When the affinage is
complete, each batch is graded out
of 20 based on its taste, texture, and
appearance. cheeses with a grading
of at least 15 get a green comté extra
label; those between 12 and 14 are
awarded a brown label reading comté;
but those with a rating below 12 do
not qualify for the aOc comté label.
The affinage The affineur must decide The texture is firm, dry,
on the time and conditions that suit the potential slightly grainy, and more
of each wheel. regular turning, brushing, and dense than Cheddar.
rubbing with salty brine is vital to the process.
Interior
france
57
exterior The green “extra” label
indicates a score by the grader
of at least 15 out of 20.
Embruns aux Algues Emmental de Savoie Feuille de Dreux
France This cheese will certainly impress Production of this now-popular hard This very distinctive, ancient artisan
dinner guests. embruns aux algues cheese began in France in the 19th cheese was historically eaten by
is made in the same way as curé century, thanks to the imagination workers in the fields as a snack and is
nantais, but it is rounder in shape and of german-swiss cheesemakers. it is still enjoyed by local farmers today. The
the curd is mixed with seaweed. This a distinctive-looking cheese, with decorative addition of a chestnut leaf
encourages the rind to develop a coral, a firm, ivory to pale paste punctuated on the top also has a practical
pink-orange color and sticky texture. with holes of about 1⁄2–1in (1.5–3cm). purpose—it stops the cheeses sticking
TasTing noTes a taste sensation, the TasTing noTes emmental has a smooth to each other when stacked.
special seaweed gives this cheese texture and a mild, pleasant flavor—it TasTing noTes This soft white cheese has
a salty and powerful flavor and a is fruity but also has a sweet and a fruity, mushroomy flavor, and the
distinctive aroma of the sea. slightly nutty taste. faint smell of the chestnut leaf mingles
HoW To enJoY it is delicious eaten with HoW To enJoY This popular choice for with a pleasant, moldy aroma.
fresh bread and onion relish. Team any cheeseboard can also be grated into HoW To enJoY excellent on a formal
it with a fruity Muscadet, such as recipes or simply served in chunks as a cheeseboard or as a simple snack with
a Melon Blanc. canapé. it goes well with all light and crackers or bread. serve with a fruity,
fruity wines. lively red wine, such as a chinon.
FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Savoie, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Center
Age 6 months Age Around 2 months
Age 1 month Weight and Shape 176lb–220lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round
(80–99kg), wheel Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round Size Various, D. 34in (87cm), H. 10in (25cm) Milk Cow
(pictured) Classification Soft white
58 Size D. 4in (8.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Milk Cow Producer Various
Milk Cow Classification Hard
Producer Various
Classification Flavor-added
Producer Curé Nantais dairy
Figuette Fium’Orbu Fleur du Maquis
This small and charming fig-shaped The sticky-rinded artisanal cheese covered with herbs and chilies, this france
goat’s cheese from the Pyrénées is fium’Orbu is named after a small unusual artisan cheese is called the
sometimes covered with dried grasses, river in a little-known unspoilt part of “flower of the maquis”—the maquis
ash, or, as shown here, paprika in order corse. as with other cheeses made being the corsican landscape. not only
to make it even more decorative and on this mountainous Mediterranean does it look better than other cheeses,
appealing to the tastebuds. island, its complex flavors and unique it also smells pretty good. it is also
TasTing nOTes figuette is sweet and has qualities can be partially attributed known as Brindamour.
a lactic flavour. The delicious aromas to the warm climate, the robust local TasTing nOTes The combination of herbs
come from the various coatings that it breeds and the wild, diverse grazing. and spicy chilies does not overwhelm
is given. TasTing nOTes soft, tender, and buttery, the flavor, thanks to the proportions
HOW TO enJOY eat it with a little honey the complex herbaceous flavors being cleverly thought out; the cheese
to enhance its sweetness and tone originate from the ewe’s fragrant itself is quite tender, and the overall
down its goaty flavor. Bergerac grazing. Washing endows this semi-soft taste is rather honeyed.
wines are light and therefore most cheese with a lingering meaty tang. HOW TO enJOY This is a full-flavored
appropriate with this cheese. HOW TO enJOY corsicans eat it with fig cheese, so serve it alone, at the end of
jam accompanied by a fruity red wine. a meal, with a local red like cap corse.
FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Corse FRANCE Corse 59
Age Fresh Age 8–12 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), fig Weight and Shape 16oz (450g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), round
Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Size L. 31/2in (8.5cm), W. 3in (8cm), H. 1in Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Milk Goat (3cm) Milk Ewe
Classification Fresh Milk Ewe Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Producer Various
Forme d’Antoine Fouchtra Fougerus
France This recently created, semi-soft cow’s The rind is similar to that of cantal an artisan cheese that was originally
milk cheese is produced in the nord and St. nectaire, and is dusted with made for family consumption, Fougerus
Pas-de-calais region. It is formed into a colorful mix of white, red, and has been commercially produced since
an unusual but attractive dome shape, sulphur-yellow molds. It has a subtle, the beginning of the 20th century. In
and encased in an orange crusty rind mild taste and its flavor reflects the size it is slightly bigger than its Brie
which is formed over six weeks through flora found in the volcanic mountains relative, coulommier.
the process of regular washings. where it is produced. It is also made TaSTInG nOTeS The fern leaves used to
TaSTInG nOTeS It has quite a strong using cow’s milk. decorate the cheese give it a “forest”
flavor balanced with a milky and spicy TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese has a aroma, and the rind has a moldy,
taste. The semi-soft paste has a surprisingly soft and silky texture. The mushroomy scent. Soft in texture, it
milky aroma. distinctive and memorable flavor has a melts in the mouth with a rather
HOW TO enJOY Pair this cheese with lingering almondy aftertaste. pronounced tang.
a full-bodied wine, such as a côte de HOW TO enJOY a full-bodied, structured HOW TO enJOY This decorative cheese
Beaune or Beaujolais, or with a sweet red wine, such as Saint Joseph or brightens up a cheese board. Try
wine, such as Gewürztraminer. Vacqueyras, is the best match for this pairing it with a lively fruity red wine,
flavorsome cheese. such as a côte de Beaune.
FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Ile-de-France
Age 3 months Age at its best 3–4 weeks
Age 4 months Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz (6kg), wheel Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round
Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), dome Milk Goat or cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
60 Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Producer Various Producer Various
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft
Producer M. Bernard
Fourme d’Ambert AOC Fourme de Fruité du Boulonnais
Montbrison AOC
One of the oldest cheeses in france, recently created and already warmly
this blue cheese dates from the roman fourme d’ambert and fourme de received, fruité du Boulonnais is
period. The aOc was granted in 1972 Montbrison are made in their two characterized by an unusual and
and since then methods of production different namesake towns, but because excellent paste and an orange crusty
have been streamlined to bring it into they are very similar, they share an rind that is formed during eight weeks
line with its aOc partner, fourme aOc. Fourme comes from the Latin of regular washing.
de Montbrison. forma, meaning form or shape. TaSTInG nOTeS You can eat this cheese
at various stages and its flavor will
TaSTInG nOTeS It has quite a pronounced TaSTInG nOTeS Montbrison tends to be be anything from smooth to strong, france
flavor, with some bitterness. The less creamy, slightly stronger and more depending on its age. It has a gentle
texture is creamy, bold, and rich, while complex than fourme d’ambert, with and pleasant milky aroma.
the aroma gives a hint of the cellar in a long, spicy finish. The pale yellow HOW TO enJOY Pair with a french “real
which it is aged. interior is streaked with uneven ale” from the growing number of small
HOW TO enJOY Serve with wines such as blotches and broken lines of blue. breweries springing up in nord-Pas-de-
coteaux d’auvergne, côtes roannaises, HOW TO enJOY Team it with local wines calais, such as a beer from the
and a full-bodied Beaujolais, or try it like coteaux d’auvergne or côtes castelain Brewery.
with a sweet Sauternes or Banyuls. roannaises or a sweet wine.
FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais 61
Age 3 months Age 3 months Age 4 months
Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), cylinder
Size D. 5in (12cm), L. 7in (17cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 8in (21cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 5cm (2in)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Blue Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various Producer M. Bernard
Gaperon Gour Noir Gratte-Paille
France In the past,the number of these cheeses This delicious artisan cheese, made This white-rinded cheese, created in
hanging in the kitchen was an from goat’s milk and sprinkled with the 1970s, is a real treat for those who
indication of a farmer’s wealth and wood ash, is the product of farmers of are not put off by a high fat content.
therefore his daughter’s dowry. This the auvergne who are passionate about Made with triple cream (70 percent
speciality of auvergne was originally cheesemaking and their products. cream for every 3½oz/100g of cheese),
made by mixing buttermilk with fresh These same cheesemakers also make the rind bears the imprint of the straw
milk; buttermilk is no longer used, but gour Blanc, a variety without ash. mats on which it is ripened.
it is still ripened by airing. TasTIng noTes Beneath the soft, wrinkly TasTIng noTes The triple cream gives
TasTIng noTes Beneath the dry, hard rind, the taste changes according to its gratte-Paille a rich, very milky taste,
rind is an elastic paste containing age: it can be very sweet or spicy, but it while the almost buttery paste has
garlic and pepper, which gives it a is always full of subtle flavors and has an oily texture and sometimes
pronounced flavor. since it is hung and a delicate hint of goat’s milk. a mushroomy flavor.
cured by the fire, it has a smoky tang. HoW To enJoY serve gour noir with HoW To enJoY combine it with other
HoW To enJoY It is a delicious cheese for a slice of simple country bread. It is foods; grate on vegetable and chicken
snacking. Partner with robust, full- complemented well by a light Loire dishes and use in sauces. It is delicious
bodied wines, such as côtes-du-rhône. wine, such as a chateaumeillant. served with strawberries!
FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Île-de-France
Age 1–2 months Age 2–6 weeks Age About 4 weeks
Weight and Shape 121⁄2oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), oval Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), brick
(350g–500g), flattened ball Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size H. 31⁄2in (7.5cm), W. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow
62 Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 21⁄2–3in Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white
Producer La Fromagerie Corbreche Producer Rouzaire dairy
(6cm–7.5cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Laguiole AOC Langres AOC Lavort france
also known as fourme de Laguiole, With its orange-coloured rind, Langres shaped like a crater as a tribute to
this is a very old cheese that dates resembles epoisses de Bourgogne, the auvergne volcanoes, this ewe’s
back centuries, first produced by monks while its name comes from the plateau cheese was created in the late 20th
in their monastery in the aubrac of Langres in champagne, where it was century. The five bands of rush leaves
mountains. Laguiole has benefited from traditionally sold. The annatto used in were originally positioned around it to
the aOc label since 1961. the wash gives the rind its color. aOc prevent the cheese from collapsing as
TasTing nOTes Laguiole has a firm, protected since 1991. it matured.
smooth texture; a strong smell with TasTing nOTes This strong-smelling TasTing nOTes its creamy and delicate
a penetrating bouquet; and a spicy tang cheese has a penetrating bouquet, paste has numerous holes and differs
but a mild, milky flavor. as the cheese and it tastes a little spicy when young. in texture depending on the level of
ages, it becomes more delicious. The texture changes with age, starting maturity. The finish has a subtle taste
HOW TO enJOY it is excellent for snacks or out grainy and becoming very creamy, of hazelnuts.
served on a cheeseboard at the end of sticky, and melt-in-the-mouth.
a meal. You can serve it with all fruity HOW TO enJOY Pair it with any of the HOW TO enJOY it is excellent in a crunchy
wines of Marcillac, du fel, costières full-bodied red wines of the Bourgogne salad, so much so that it is featured in
du gard. region to match its strong flavor. several local salad-based specialities.
FRANCE Laguiole, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Langres, Champagne Ardenne FRANCE Puy Guillaume, Auvergne 63
Age 4–6 months Age 2–3 months Age 3–6 months
Weight and Shape 66–88lb (30–40kg), Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), cylinder Weight and Shape 12oz–1lb 2oz
cylinder with sunken top (350–500g), drum
Size D. 16in (40cm), H. 14–16in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size Various, D. 6in (15cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm)
(35cm–40cm) Milk Cow (pictured)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe
Classification Hard Producer Schertenleib Dairy and Reumillet Classification Hard
Producer Jeune Montagne cooperative Producer Fromagerie de Terre-Dieu
Epoisses de Bourgogne AOC A CLOsER LOOk
According to legend, Epoisses was created in the 16th century The unique appearance of Epoisses is
by the local monks. It was based on the first washed-rind caused by regularly hand washing the
cheese created at Maroilles Abbey in Thierache, Northern France cheeses in brandy and brine, which
around 960ce. also made it one of the most pungent
of the washed-rind cheeses.
FRANCE The monks were forbidden meat on famous town of Dijon. Despite being
fast days, and with over a hundred of made by only 4 producers, it is found
these—not to mention compulsory in cheese shops as far afield as the
fish on Friday—cheese was an United States, China, and Australia.
essential part of their diet. The
washed-rind cheeses with their TAsTING NOTEs Epoisses Frais,
strong, pungent meaty taste must at 30 days, is firm, moist, slightly
have seemed like a gift from above. grainy with a softening around the
When the monastery closed, the thin, pale orange rind and is
monks left behind the recipe which mild and lactic with a subtle
was then passed from mother to savory, yeasty tang. At 40
daughter. However, it was all but lost days, Epoisses Affinee has a
until Robert and Simone Berthaut sticky, wrinkled, terracotta
decided to revive the old recipe in rind and pungent spicy aroma
1956. Other producers have since and a smooth velvety texture.
joined the revival, and, in 1991, When the outer edges are near
Epoisses was awarded an AOC to collapsing, the inside is not
Protected Designation Origin. far behind and the aroma,
described by some as
To qualify for AOC status it must reminiscent of smelly socks, is
be made in the departments of the matched by the wickedly
Cote d’Or, the Yvonne and the Haute strong, strangely meaty taste.
Marne, and a small area West of the
64 HOw TO ENjOY No APPLYING BRANDY
cheeseboard is complete The monks of Epoisses,
The milk for Epoisses come from Brune, French without a washed-rind cheese, taking advantage of their
Simmental, and Montbeliarde cows. and Epoisses is among the proximity to the great
greatest. Smear it on nut and vineyards of Burgundy,
FRANCE Bourgogne and Champagne raisin bread or, if you love strong decided to wash the cheese
Ardenne cheese, bake and serve it with crusty in a strong local brandy or
Age 4–6 weeks bread or dollop some on sliced potatoes marc which imparts a
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round and bake. Cooking brings out its distinct alcoholic whiff and
Size D. 6in (16.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) sweeter side, but its intense flavor creates an intense, sticky,
Milk Cow and aroma means it should be used orange rind.
Classification sparingly. The smooth velvety texture
Producer Various and strong aromatic flavor demands a
fine red Burgundian Pinot Noir
or a rich buttery Chardonnay, but
a spicy aromatic Riesling or Marc
de Bourgogne are also equally
good companions.
SMEAR-RiPEning Every
day for 4–6 weeks, the young
cheeses are washed in a mix of
brine and a special bacteria called
brevibacterium linens, a process
often referred to as smear-ripening.
PAckAging The cheeses are YELLOWing Smear-ripening causes the rind to
packed in small round wooden gradually change from pale yellow-orange to an
boxes with wood from the increasingly sticky, glistening tangerine orange with a fine
Jura mountains. Traditionally, they dusting of white flora or yeast.
were lined with chestnut leaves,
but these are now banned due to The washed rind is orange
health regulations. Now, attractive to terracotta in color, and
brown paper leaves are used pungent in flavor.
instead. The perforated micro film
stretched over the box in which it is FRANCE
sold prevents the buyer from
feeling if the cheese is ripe.
Instead you judge its maturity by
the intensity of its color.
65
The interior is moist and Round, portion removed
creamy-colored.
France Lingot de la Ginestarie Livarot AOC Lou Rocaillou
This small, fresh ewe’s milk cheese is One of the most ancient cheeses of Lou rocaillou means “the craggy
produced in the Pyrénées by M. Teosky, normandie, Livarot was probably cheese” in local dialect, referring to the
a passionate farmer who is originally invented by local monks. Its nickname, causse Méjean, a large limestone
from Poland and who grazes both ewes “the colonel,” comes from the five plateau where the ewes whose milk
and goats on his pastures. stripes of sedge grass that encircle creates this cheese enjoy grazing.
TaSTInG nOTeS a farmhouse cheese, the cheese’s washed rind and resemble TaSTInG nOTeS rocaillou has a white
Lingot de la Ginestarie is soft, the stripes used on military uniforms molded rind and a smooth, supple, and
becoming almost runny with age, and to denote an officer’s rank. fine paste that almost melts in the
tastes sweet with a fresh and pleasant mouth. Whether it is eaten young or
countryside aroma. TaSTInG nOTeS a good Livarot should kept until it is more mature, it is
HOW TO enJOY Its brick shape makes it have a firm, orange-brown, slightly always a very sweet cheese.
distinctive-looking on a cheeseboard, sticky rind and a strong spicy flavor. HOW TO enJOY It makes a delicious snack
and its fresh, delicate taste is best whether eaten on its own or spread on
paired with a light red wine such as HOW TO enJOY Team a perfectly ripe fresh bread. as part of a cheeseboard, it
a chinon. cheese with any well-knit red wine, but offers an interesting alternative to
it is equally good with a cider, such as sharper cheeses.
one from normandy, or a sweet
late-harvest alsace wine.
FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées
Age 3 months Age 2 weeks
Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), drum Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), brick Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh
66 Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 2in (5cm), H. 2in Producer M. Dombres
(5cm) Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge;
Fromagerie Thebault
Milk Ewe
Classification Aged fresh
Producer M. Teosky
Lou Sotch Lucullus Mâconnais AOC
Lou Sotch is a small, oval ewe’s milk This soft white cheese is produced in The Mâconnais is made from pure france
cheese from the Grands causses normandy and named after a famous goat’s milk or from a combination of
nature Park in the aveyron area. With roman general and gourmet. It is made goat’s and cow’s milk, which is
its thin wrinkly rind dusted with white by adding generous quantities of cream available all year round. It is produced
mold, it looks a little like rocamadour, to the milk before it is coagulated. Its in the Bourgogne region and was given
a small goat’s milk cheese, but this high cream content means it is more the aOc label in 2005.
cheese is more flavorful. stable than other soft white cheeses, so TaSTInG nOTeS It has a unique taste:
TaSTInG nOTeS a smooth paste, tender keeps for longer in the refrigerator. a faint goaty and slightly nutty flavor,
rind, and nutty powerful taste makes TaSTInG nOTeS It develops a soft white and a delicate aroma of spring herbs.
Lou Sotch a delightful alternative for rind with a mushroomy aroma. It has eaten fresh, it is white and creamy;
all lovers of goat cheese. a wickedly rich, luxurious feel in the left to mature, it becomes harder and
HOW TO enJOY eat with savory chutneys mouth and a nutty flavor. forget the fat slightly salty.
and serve with a chilled dry white wine content—just enjoy the taste! HOW TO enJOY It is best served with the
as an aperitif. HOW TO enJOY eat on crackers or crusty dry and fruity whites of the Mâconnais
bread and team with a light fruity wine region, such as Beaujolais and Mâcon.
with bouquet, such as red Bouzy.
FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Ile-de-France and Basse Normandie FRANCE Bourgogne 67
Age 12–20 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 weeks
Weight and Shape 1oz (2.5cm), oval Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), drum Weight and Shape 2oz (60g),
Size L. 6in (15cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) truncated cone
Milk Ewe Milk Cow Size D. 2in (5cm) at base, 1.5in (31⁄2cm) at
Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white top, H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Producer M. Dombres Producer Various Milk Goat and cow
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
Maroilles AOC Mimolette Mont d’Or AOC
The most famous cheese in the north This hard cheese originated in the The Mont d’Or mountains lie on the
of France, Maroilles was invented by netherlands, but since the 17th French–Swiss border, and it is there
monks in 962 ce. regular turning and century it has also been made in that this cheese is made between the
washing eliminates the natural white northern France. It is produced using end of august and the middle of March.
mold and promotes the development of the same methods as edam, but is It has been produced in both countries
the bacteria that gives the rind its colored with annatto and aged for for centuries; however, it is the French
distinctive orange-red color. a minimum of six months. who have been granted an aOc label
(in 1981).
France TaSTInG nOTeS Maroilles’ paste is TaSTInG nOTeS as it ripens, the paste of TaSTInG nOTeS This creamy cheese has
golden-yellow, soft, and oily, and it has this colorful cheese changes from a delicate taste with a hint of the
a strong flavor and aroma with a sweet, bright orange to orange-brown, and the spruce band that binds it and helps it
lingering aftertaste. texture becomes brittle. The flavor is to keep its shape while maturing.
HOW TO enJOY a local favourite involves mild but becomes stronger with age. HOW TO enJOY Scoop it out with a spoon
using Maroilles in a sauce for chicken HOW TO enJOY eat as an appetizer. Serve at the end of the meal or melt it in the
dishes. eat it alongside all very strong, with all light and fruity wines, such as oven and eat it like fondue.
vigorous red wines, such as côte de Beaune, but it is commonly
châteauneuf-du-Pâpe. served with beers, port or Madeira.
FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Nord-Pas-De-Calais FRANCE Franche-Comté
Age 3–24 months Age 1 month
Age 4 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb–6lb Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round
(2.5kg–2.7kg), ball Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm)
Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g) square Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 5in (13cm) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
68 Size L. 5in (13cm), W. 5in (13cm) H. 11⁄2in Classification Hard Producer Various
(4cm) Producer Various
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Morbier AOC Morvan Mothais-sur-Feuille
This washed-rind cheese is made by This is a soft cheese that is typically Goats were introduced to the Poitou france
the cheesemakers of comté in the Jura eaten during spring and summer. It is province by the Moors during the 15th
mountains. It is characterized by a fermier cheese that is produced in century and now play a significant role
a horizontal dark line in the center of Bourgogne and named after the in the local economy. This farmhouse
the cheese. Traditionally, the producers regional nature Park of Morvan, cheese undergoes an unusual
sprinkled soot from wood fires over the a beautiful nature preserve of woods, production method for a goat cheese; it
morning curd, then covered it with forests, and mountains. is placed on a chestnut leaf and ripened
curd from the evening milking. Today, TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese is best eaten at a high humidity, rather than in dry
wood ash is used to recreate the look. fresh. It is slightly nutty and has conditions, so it retains more moisture.
TaSTInG nOTeS It has a soft and delicate a faint goaty flavor. TaSTInG nOTeS With a soft, sticky white
paste, a rather pronounced flavor, and a HOW TO enJOY eat it with fresh seasonal rind and creamy texture, the Mothais-
mild, milky aroma. The more it ages, berries. Team with a light white sur-feuille has a light, moldy aroma
the sweeter and stronger the taste. wine such as Mâconnais, Beaujolais, and a long-lasting, delicate aftertaste.
HOW TO enJOY Serve with a local arbois or Mâcon. HOW TO enJOY Partner this melt-in-the-
wine or light and fruity wines like mouth cheese with a full-bodied red
Beaujolais or Jura. wine from Poitou.
FRANCE Franche-Comté FRANCE Bourgogne Region Poitou-Charentes 69
Age 2–3 months Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 11lb–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (115g), drum Weight and Shape 8–9oz (225–250g),
(5–9kg), wheel Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) round
Size D. 14–16in (36–41cm), H. 3–4in Milk Goat Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
(7.5–10cm) Classification Aged fresh Milk Goat
Milk Cow Producer Various Classification Aged fresh
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Producer Various
Munster AOC Olivet Ossau-Iraty AOC
France Munster is an ancient, washed-rind named after the town on the Loire The name of this hard cheese refers to
cheese of monastic origin that dates river in which it was first made, Olivet the valley of Ossau, in Béarn, and the
back to the Middle ages. It is also is produced in a variety of forms. forests of Iraty, in the Basque country,
known as “Géromé” when made in the cendré (shown here), matured in ashes, and encompasses a number of
Lorraine region. Its aOc status was has a rather gritty, ash-gray rind; au wonderful cheeses made using the milk
established in 1969. Foin has a white rind covered with a of the Manech ewes that graze in this
TaSTInG nOTeS When properly matured, few strands of dry grass; and Poivre is breathtakingly beautiful region.
it has a strong penetrating smell and covered in crushed pepper. TaSTInG nOTeS Ossau-Iraty has a sharp
the flavor of rich milk. There is also TaSTInG nOTeS Olivet has a subtle taste and somewhat nutty taste, and the rind
a version available that comes flavored of salt and mushrooms, tinged with is pretty firm, especially after a long
with cumin. a slight scent of mold. maturation. If you have a strong palate,
HOW TO enJOY eat this like a local: serve HOW TO enJOY Serve with rosé wines try the espelette pepper variety.
it with cumin on boiled potatoes. Pair from the region, such as a Pinot HOW TO enJOY eat in traditional fashion
a young cheese with Gewürztraminer, Meunier from Orléanais or any fruity with itxassou, a local black cherry jam,
and an older one with very full-bodied red, such as a Borgueil. which counterbalances its sharpness. It
reds like côte-rôtie or Haut-Médoc. is also featured in numerous local dishes.
FRANCE Alsace and Lorraine FRANCE Centre FRANCE Aquitane
Age 2–3 months Age 1 month Age 3 months minimum
Weight and Shape 10oz– 3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–15lb 7oz
(280g–1.5kg), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) (2–7kg), round
Milk Cow Size D. 7–11in (18–28cm), H. 3–41⁄2in
70 Size D. 5–7in (13–19cm), H. 1–3in Classification Soft white (7–15cm)
Producer Various Milk Ewe
(2.5–8cm) Classification Hard
Milk Cow Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Palet de Bourgogne Pavé d’Auge Pavé Blésois
This is a 20th-century creation of the an old variation of Pont-L’evêque, this This artisan cheese is produced in both france
well-known Burgundian cheesemaker, semi-soft cheese is nowadays a generic a square and a rectangle shape, and its
raymond Gaugry. This cheese is based name for several square, washed-rind dry surface is covered in an elegant
on epoisse and is washed every cheeses produced in the auge area. and interesting silvery blue mold. It is
two days with brine and Marc de These include Pavé de Moyaux (the made in the Blesois region of france,
Bourgogne so that it becomes wet and name of an area), Pavé du Plessis (the near the river Loire.
reddish in color. name of a dairy), and Trouville (named TaSTInG nOTeS It has an aroma of goat’s
TaSTInG nOTeS The paste of this strongly after a small seaside town). Pavé is the milk. The paste is clean and smooth,
scented cheese is fine and creamy, and french for the rough paving stones with a hazelnut note and a tongue-
has a powerful and penetrating flavor found in most old local towns. tingling aftertaste.
that is not unlike the epoisses and the TaSTInG nOTeS Pavé d’auge has a spicy HOW TO enJOY an excellent country
ami du chambertin, but not as strong. flavor and strong tang that can be cheese, Pavé Blesois makes a great
HOW TO enJOY This full-flavored cheese is a little bitter. addition to a simple salad and is best
best eaten alongside a light red wine, HOW TO enJOY Pair this with a strong, served with a dry and simple light
such as a Savigny-les-Beaune. full-bodied red wine with some bouquet: white wine, such as a chinon.
Bourgueil, fleurie, or Pomerol.
FRANCE Gevrey-Chambertin, Bourgogne FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Centre 71
Age 4 weeks Age 2 months Age 6 weeks
Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) square,
Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) square 10oz (300g) rectangle
Milk Cow Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), W. 41⁄2in (11cm H. 2in Size Square: L. 3in (8cm), W. 3in (8cm),
Classification Semi-soft (5cm) H. 11⁄2in (4cm); Rectangle: L. 5in (12cm),
Producer Fromagerie Gaugry Milk Cow W. 3in (7cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat
Producer Various Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
Pavé de la Ginestarie Pavé du Nord Pavin
a unique cheese, Pavé de la Ginestarie This cheese is also known as Pavé de Produced in the mountains of Forez
is produced from the milk of goats roubaix, named after the textile city of using a similar method to that for
that live in the Pyrenées mountains, roubaix located in the north of France. Saint-nectaire, this semi-soft cheese is
but exactly how it is made is a well- Historically, the cheese could always be named after a lake in the auvergne.
kept secret. What is known is that found on the weavers’ tables. Its Pavin is washed with a mix of brine
there are traces of straw in the rind attractive, carrot-orange interior, like and annatto to create a sticky orange
and that its bacteria form part of the Mimolette, is derived from the use of rind that is dusted with a fine
ripening process. annatto in its production. white mold.
TaSTInG nOTeS an organic, white-rinded
France cheese, it has a pale paste with a hint TaSTInG nOTeS It has a rock-hard, orange TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is light yellow
of straw in the flavor. It has a subtle to brown rind and a very hard, compact in color and is tinged with the scent of
taste but a long-lasting finish. texture with a few small holes, and an mushrooms, and it has the flavor of
HOW TO enJOY For a delicious intense, mouth-tingling, tangy finish. hazelnuts.
combination, pair this delicate cheese
with fresh blackberries or currants to HOW TO enJOY Shave or thinly slice as HOW TO enJOY Serve it with a full-bodied
give it a real sweetness. an appetizer with a beer, or use to add wine from the Bourgogne, such as a
character and flavor to cheese sauces. Pommard or Mercurey.
FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne
Age 6–24 months Age About 8 weeks
Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), brick Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round
Size L. 11in (27cm), W. 5in (13cm), Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 2in (4cm)
Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), square H. 3in (8cm) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
72 Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Classification Hard Producer Various
Milk Goat Producer Various
Classification Aged fresh
Producer M. Teosky
Pechegos Pélardon AOC Pérail
This cheese derives its name from Pélardon is a generic name for small although it has existed for centuries, france
a plateau in the Tarn region. It is here goat cheeses produced in the cévennes this small cheese used to be made only
that the goats whose raw milk is used region of france, near the alps. as a way to prevent wastage, using up
in the production of Pechegos graze. These include Pélardon des cévennes small quantities of milk when there
The finished washed cheese has (shown here), Pélardon d’anduze, was not enough left to make roquefort.
a distinctive-looking copper-colored and Pélardon d’altier. nowadays it is considered to be a
rind and is bound with spruce bark. TaSTInG nOTeS Pélardon cheeses have a renowned speciality.
TaSTInG nOTeS Pechegos has a very creamy and dense texture; a full, rich TaSTInG nOTeS Pérail has a less
creamy texture, similar to the famous milky and nutty flavor; and a lingering pronounced flavor than most ewe’s milk
Mont d’Or on which the recipe is based. aftertaste. The rind is barely formed, cheeses, probably because of its rather
It is a real taste sensation, with many thin, soft, and wrinkled, and as it short aging period. With its smooth
different mushroomy and truffle flavors. matures it develops a natural mold. paste and tender rind, it has a soft yet
distinguishable nutty taste.
HOW TO enJOY Serve it alongside potatoes HOW TO enJOY Lightly broil or bake and HOW TO enJOY Serve with rose hip jam. It
or eggs, with a full-bodied white, such accompany with a red costières de pairs well with all lively wines from the
as Jurancon, or a red, such as Madiran. nîmes or a full-bodied côtes du rhône, south of france.
such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras.
FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées 73
Age 8 weeks Age 2–3 weeks Age Best around 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 3–41⁄2oz (85–125g), Weight and Shape 3–5oz (85–140g), disc
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) disc Size D. 3–4in (8–10cm), H. 1in (2cm),
Milk Goat Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh
Producer Le Pic Cooperative Classification Aged fresh Producer M. Dombres
Producer Various
Reblochon de Savoie AOC A CLOSER LOOk
Although Reblochon has been made in the summer Alpine Reblochon is a piece of history and a
pastures since the 13th century, it was unheard of until after the reflection of the unique geology of the
French revolution. The reason for secrecy was the introduction of region, the indigenous breed of cows,
a tax. In the 14th century, farmers who grazed their cattle in the and the people who make it.
magnificent Haute-Savoie pastures overlooking Lake Annecy
were forced to pay a tax based on the milk yield of their cattle.
To avoid payment of the tax, the summer pastures in winter. The
farmer would only partially milk his feeding of silage or concentrates is
cows in the presence of the tax man, banned because it can taint the
then, once he departed, the cows sweetness of the milk, and the
were remilked. This additional stipulation that it can only be made
“tax-free” milk was then made into from unpasteurized milk ensures
Reblochon—from the old Savoie word production is always near the source THE CASEIN LABEL A round green casein
stamp on the rind means it’s a fermier,
reblocher, to “remilk” or “pinch the of the raw material. “farmhouse”, cheese, made in an Alpine chalet
or farms in the Thones area. A red stamp
cow’s udder again,” and was kept for Reblochon must be made and means it has been made in a factory, or by the
milk of more than one herd within a wider
family consumption only. matured in the Haute-Savoie and defined area.
After the French revolution, the north-eastern parts of the Savoie by
tax was removed and the farmers individual farmers, fermier,
were free to sell their cheese. cooperatives, fruitiere, or commercial
Reblochon has been protected by the dairies, industriel, who receive their
AOC regulations since 1976, which milk from local farms.
states that the milk can only come TASTINg NOTES When young,
FRAnCE from the indigenous Abondance,
Tarine, and Montbéliarde cows that the cheese has the sweetness of stolen
graze the alpine pastures in summer fruit. As it matures it is no longer
and dine on hay cut from those rich sweet but tastes of freshly pickled,
crunchy walnuts and a hint of the
mountain flowers. Its supple, creamy
texture flows over and caresses the
palate like warm, English custard.
The fermier cheese has a more intense,
complex flavor and a farmyard aroma,
but do not be deterred.
The interior captures the aroma of
the wild flowers and herbs of the
74 Haute-Savoie pastures.
The Haute-Savoie pastures and Lake Annecy. HOw TO ENjOy Traditionally Round of Reblochon
served with crusty pain de campagne
FRANCE Rhône–Alpes (a sourdough bread), a few slices of The supple interior oozes
Age 4–12 weeks sweet jambon de pays (air-dried ham), beneath the rind.
Weight and Shape 9–11⁄4lb (240–550g), and pickled gherkins. However, it melts
round like a river of cheese and is amazing
Size D. 31⁄2–5in (9–12cm), H. 1in (3cm) grilled on bread, vegetables, as a
Milk Cow topping for soups or baked with
Classification Semi soft potatoes and cream, or on ratatouille.
Producer Various
Apremont, a crisp local white wine,
light beer, or sweet cider make perfect
companions; or try a soft red with low
tannin, such as Merlot.
PRESSING A large piece of white cloth is stretched over a tray of cheese molds. The curd is then FORMING THE RIND In cool cellars, often
ladled into each mold and a small wooden disc placed over the top to lightly press the curd. carved into the hillside under the mountain
chalets, the rind grows a mix of gray and white
The rind ranges from pinkish-yellow molds, which are discouraged by regular
when young to a pale terracotta-red, brushing and washes in brine. The rind should
be dry not damp, smooth not cracked or split,
usually covered with whitish flora. and feel supple.
fRAnce
PACKAGING Reblochon is wrapped with a
little wooden disc on the base and sometimes on
top so you need to rely on your cheese merchant
to tell you if it is ripe.
75
The wrinkles and irregularities in the
rind are formed when the cloth is
trapped in the curd during pressing.
France Persillé de Tignes Petit Fiancé des Picodon AOC
Pyrénées
although persillé translates as This cheese is made from the milk of
“parsley,” it in fact refers to the fine First created in 1989, this the goats that graze on the mountain
blue-green mold that appears naturally unpasteurized goat’s cheese is made grass and shrubs of the ardèche and
inside the cheese rather than as a from the milk of an alpine breed of Drome regions. These pastures are
result of piercing to encourage the blue. goats. after the whey is drained from filled with strong aromas and flavors,
The mustard-colored pigment on the the curds, the cheese is circled with which in turn produce milk of the
rind is thought to be linked to the fact a band of ash wood and washed highest quality. Picodon has been aoc
that the goats whose milk is used graze repeatedly for six weeks as it matures. protected since 1983.
on sulphurous soil. TasTing noTes The goats’ diet gives
TasTing noTes it is lactic and herbaceous TasTing noTes The washing process Picodon its spicy flavor; however, the
with richer flavors in summer and fall. gives the cheese a moist texture, paste is so dry that the flavor is best
as it ripens, it becomes dry, spicy, and and the ash binding infuses it with obtained by sucking the cheese.
intense, and it breaks easily. a woody aroma. The finished cheese HoW To enJoY Picodon tastes delicious
has a supple melting interior. when added to salads or paired with
lively, full-bodied red and white wines
HoW To enJoY Persillé can be enjoyed HoW To enJoY Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées from the côtes-du-rhône.
with all fruity and light red wines, such is best paired with a fruity white wine,
as a crépy or saumure. such as a condrieux.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Rhône-Alpes
Age 6 weeks Age 1 month
Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), cylinder Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh
76 Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Producer Fromagerie Fermier Cabrioulet Producer Various
Milk Goat
Classification Hard
Producer Various
Pierre-Robert Pithiviers Plaisir au Chablis
Pierre-robert originally owes its name Produced in Bondaroy, near Orléans, named “the pleasure of france
to robert rouzaire, the producer, and his Pithiviers used to be made in summer chablis” after the wine used in its
friend Pierre. This soft white cheese is when milk was plentiful and then production, this semi-soft cheese is
now made by rouzaire’s son. it is not a stored in hay until the fall. now it is from the same family as the epoisses
cheese for anyone watching their calorie produced all year round, but it is still de Bourgogne. it is also known as
intake; this triple-cream cheese has covered in fine strands of dried grasses, affidélis, and is a sticky, creamy cheese
extra cream added to the milk to give it herbs and meadow flowers. that is usually sold in a wooden box.
a fat content of 75 percent for every TasTing nOTes The white rind is TasTing nOTes Being washed once
3½ /100g and a luxurious, rich taste. sprinkled with hay, and the paste is a week with chablis, a crisp white
TasTing nOTes This very creamy, buttery soft with a slight fragrance of mold and wine, gives it a fruity, alcoholic taste.
and slightly sour cream tang melts in mushrooms, exuding a tangy flavor. Like all washed-rind cheeses, Plaisir
the mouth when young. Over time, it HOW TO enJOY Team Pithiviers with the has a strong taste.
becomes richer and tangy. pale red Pinots of Orléanais and the HOW TO enJOY as the name suggests,
HOW TO enJOY it is delicious with pears, fruity, lively light red wines of Orléans this is best served with a crisp white
or with a full-bodied Bourgogne, such and Touraine (chinon and Bourgeuil). wine, especially a chablis.
as Pommard or Mercurey.
FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Ile-de-France FRANCE Centre FRANCE Brochon, Bourgogne 77
Age 1 month Age 4–5 weeks Age 6 weeks
Weight and shape 1lb (450g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 61⁄2oz (180g), round
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 1in (3.5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft
Producer Fromagerie Rouzaire Producer Various Producer Fromagerie Gaugry; Fromagerie
Berthault
Pont-l’Evêque AOC Pot Corse Pouligny-Saint-Pierre
AOC
France Originally called angelot, this Pot corse is a fromage fort, a recipe
washed-rind cheese is probably one of developed by the French as a means of This goat cheese, aOc protected since
the oldest French cheeses. It is even using leftover cheese. The remnants of 1972, is nicknamed “the Pyramid” or
mentioned by Guillaume de Lorris in ewe’s milk cheeses are gathered “the eiffel Tower” because of its shape.
his 13th century allegorical poem together and combined with a little It has a dry, vaguely knobby, pale
“roman de la rose.” Pont-L’evêque white wine, garlic, spices, and perhaps cream to reddish rind which is dusted
was granted an aOc in 1976. some herbs, then spread on bread like with a blue-gray mold.
TaSTInG nOTeS The creamy, yellow, butter. This corsican variation is
smooth paste develops small holes as it presented in a small pot. TaSTInG nOTeS With a moist, soft, and
ripens, and has a lingering, sweet taste. TaSTInG nOTeS The strong, powerful and crumbly paste, the flavor changes from
Older cheeses have a stronger flavor. buttery flavor has vegetal overtones. sour to salty to sweet. It has an aroma
of the straw and of the milk of the
HOW TO enJOY Try eating this cheese HOW TO enJOY Do as the corsicans do alpine goats used to produce it.
alongside a glass of stout, or with and match it with spicy food and a
a glass of full-bodied red wine, full-bodied red wine. Its pretty HOW TO enJOY It is superb for a
from Bordeaux, Burgundy, or presentation is a bonus. cheeseboard or broiled. Team it with a
côtes du rhône. fruity chenin or Sauvignon wine from
the Touraine and Berry regions.
FRANCE Pont-l’Evêque, Basse Normandie FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre
Age 20 weeks Age 3–5 weeks
Age 5–6 weeks Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), jar Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), pyramid
Size No size Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 31⁄2in (8cm)
Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), square Milk Ewe Milk Goat
Classification Fresh Classification Aged fresh
78 Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm) H. 1in Producer Various Producer Various
(2.5cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge,
Fromagerie Thebault
Raclette de Savoie Racotin Rigotte de Condrieu france
AOC
The name is derived from the french During the production process, the curd
verb racler, meaning to scrape, as this of this goat cheese is drained, and it This farmhouse cheese is quite rare
cheese was traditionally placed in is the natural flora in the milk that because it is made with goat’s milk,
front of an open fire and, as it melted, brings a yellow tinge to the blue-white unlike most rigottes, which are made
scraped on to hot potatoes or bread. crinkled rind of the finished product. with cow’s milk. It is a very old cheese,
Some are made with added flavors, Similar to charolais, but smaller, it is and has been aOc protected since 2008.
such as raclette fumée, which is aged by Bernard Sivignon, a renowned
smoked over beechwood; au vin blanc, affineur based in Bourgogne. TaSTInG nOTeS rigotte de condrieu
rubbed with a white wine; and la TaSTInG nOTeS racotin has a dense, firm, tastes milky but does not have a very
moutarde, made with mustard seeds. slightly grainy texture and a goaty pronounced flavor. It has a natural
TaSTInG nOTeS The supple, elastic flavor with a peppery, buttery tang. rind, a robust paste, and a honey and
texture melts superbly and has a sweet HOW TO enJOY fresh raspberries and acacia aroma.
taste that is stronger when melted. nutty bread are good accompaniments
HOW TO enJOY Slice and grill or broil with to this goat cheese, along with a crisp HOW TO enJOY It goes perfectly with
potatoes, and serve with cooked meats white wine. the light and fruity wines of côtes
and fruity red or white Savoy wines. du Lyonnais, Beaujolais, and côtes
du rhône.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 79
Age Minimum 2 months Age 3–4 weeks Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 83⁄4lb–15lb 7oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), cylinder Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), round
(4.5–7kg), wheel Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), H. 1in (3cm)
Size D. 11–14in (28–36cm), H. 2in–3in Milk Goat Milk Goat
(5.5–7.5cm) Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh
Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Rocamadour AOC Rollot Rouelle du Tarn
France This goat cheese was once known as This semi-soft washed-rind cheese used This creamy goat cheese was created
cabécou de rocamadour, but since it to be exclusively round, but in recent by a farmer from the Tarn region in
gained its aOc status in 1996, it has years, a factory version has been 1984. Its unusual and distinctive shape
been renamed simply rocamadour, produced, called cœur de rollot, which is achieved by ladling the curd into
after the best-known market in the has been molded into a heart shape. a mold with a hole in the middle.
region. This change in name sets it TaSTInG nOTeS This powerful cheese is It is then sprinkled with ash to create
apart from other cabécou cheeses that similar in taste to a Maroilles (see p68) a white-gray rind. The combination
are not made in the rocamadour area, and has a spicy tang. The paste has a of these techniques makes it an
and so cannot carry the aOc label. soft, sticky texture. aesthetically-pleasing addition to
TaSTInG nOTeS With a tender and creamy HOW TO enJOY The heart-shaped version any cheeseboard.
paste, rocamadour tastes mild and looks decorative on an after-dinner TaSTInG nOTeS rouelle du Tarn has
slightly milky, but has a delicious sweet cheeseboard. You can serve it with a milky, deliciously creamy flavor and
and nutty aftertaste. all lively and fruity wines, such as a hazelnut note.
HOW TO enJOY Serve with figs and pair Saint-emilion, côte rôtie, and HOW TO enJOY Ideal with all fruity and
and a fruity, robust red wine, preferably Savigny-les-Beaune. light red wines, particularly a Saumur
of the cahor region. or chinon.
FRANCE Aquitaine FRANCE Picardie FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées
Age 6–8 weeks Age 1 month
Age 1–3 weeks Weight and Shape 7–10oz (200–300g), Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round
round or heart Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm)
Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), disc Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat
Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh
80 Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Milk Goat Producer Various
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
Rove Cendré Roves des Garrigues Sablé de Wissant
Generously sprinkled with ash, the This fresh cheese is named after the a recent creation made in Wissant, on france
rove cendré comes from a farm that rove breed of goat that is native to the france’s northern coast, this semi-soft
has around 200 rove goats with their Mediterranean and now very rare. cheese is rolled in bread crumbs to give
distinct long horns and red coats. It is rove goats produce very little milk it a rough, sandy (or sablé) rind that
made only from March to December, each day (about 2 liters compared with absorbs the pale local beer in which it
although the hardy goats remain an average of 5 liters in other breeds), is washed.
outdoors, grazing on the wild fragrant but what it does produce is extremely TaSTInG nOTeS Supple with small holes,
pastures, berries, and small bushes. dense and flavorsome. this cheese feels rich and creamy in the
TaSTInG nOTeS The texture is smooth TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is pure mouth. It has the aroma and taste of
and creamy, and the flavor is aromatic white with a soft melt-in-the-mouth beer—yeasty and slightly sweet with a
and herbaceous. sensation and a fresh lemony tang that pungent farm-yardy finish.
HOW TO enJOY rove cendré ‘s ash is overlaid with a hint of thyme and HOW TO enJOY Great on a cheeseboard
coating and fresh lemony tang make it wild herbs. because of its unusual appearance, but
an attractive apéritif. Serve with fresh HOW TO enJOY excellent served with like all washed-rind cheeses, it should
figs and berries, and a glass of a quince paste and washed down with be use sparingly in cooking. Serve with
Provençal rosé. a glass of red côtes du Ventoux. a light ale or a glass of champagne.
FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Wissant, Nord-Pas-de-Calais 81
Age 2 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Age 7 weeks
Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), oval Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), round Weight and Shape 13oz (350g), square
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Aged fresh Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Bernard Brothers
Roquefort AOC A ClOseR lOOk
folklore has it that roquefort was created some 2000 years ago There are only seven producers of
when a love struck shepherd, distracted by his young love from roquefort in the world, each using
tending his sheep, left his lunch, a piece of bread and cheese, in the same basic process and yet each
the cave where he had been sheltering. a few days later he achieves their own distinct and
remembered the cheese and found it had developed a individual character. The biggest
greenish mold through the center. is the roquefort Société.
Since then, shepherds have been It takes milk from 6–8 ewes to make Pockets of mold.
maturing their cheese in the deep one 6lb 6oz (3kg) cheese.
france limestone caves of cambalou. no
chemicals, unwanted molds, or roquefort has been protected since
stainless steel shelves are used to 1411 when charles VI signed a
disturb the delicate balance that has charter granting the people of
for centuries produced one of the roquefort-sur-Soulzon the rights to
world’s finest cheeses. The natural make it, and in 1926 it was the first
caves are about 984ft (300m) wide, cheese to be granted appellation
and go down four to five levels. d’Origine contrôlée (aOc) status.
Only those unfamiliar with the process
The often harsh climate with its would compare other ewe’s milk cheese
hot, dry summers and cold winters, with roquefort.
and the rugged, rocky geography has
for centuries been home to a local TAsTing nOTes When fully aged,
breed of hardy indigenous sheep. the mold will have fanned out to the
Lactation lasts from December to edges of the buttery mass in streaks
July, and each sheep, grazing on the and pockets and the flavor is spicy,
tussock grasses and wild herbs, strong, and mouth-watering. Sadly,
produces around 3½–5 pints some roquefort is consumed too young
(2–3 liters) of rich, flavorsome milk. when there is barely a hint of blue and
the texture is crumbly rather than
cohesive and the bite has no backbone.
HOw TO enjOy roquefort is
sublime when eaten in chunks with
sourdough bread, and spectacular in
sauces, or when crumbled on top of
salads or pasta. Traditionally it is
82 paired with Port or Sauternes, but it is
fantastic with just about any dessert
wine as they cut though the salty tang
and highlight the sweetness of the milk.
Pencillium roqueforti, the fungus responsible
for Roquefort’s blue-gray mold.
France Midi-Pyrénées
Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 51⁄2–61⁄4lb
(2.5–2.9kg), drum
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3–4in
(8.5–10.5cm)
Milk Ewe
Classification Hard
Producer Various
The Caves The numerous cracks and Foil Wrapping The cheeses are
fissures of the limestone caves allow the cool wrapped in foil four weeks after their arrival in
the caves to prevent any further mold growth
air and indigenous molds to circulate. To on the rind.
encourage the growth of the blue penicillium
roqueforti molds, large loaves of locally grown The rind is very
open and porous.
rye bread are placed in the caves and over
three months grow a fine furry gray coat
which, when dried and powdered, is sprinkled
over the newly formed cheeses.
Once pierced, the
spore-laden air quickly
penetrates the nooks and
crannies of the loosely
packed curd, developing
pockets of delicious
blue-green mold.
france
83
Drum, quarter removed
Saint-Christophe Saint-Domnin Saint-Félicien
France although this goat cheese is made This is an alpine goat cheese that has a natural-rinded cheese, Saint-Félicien
in the same way as Saint-Maure de a character all its own. It is made in was originally produced using goat’s
Touraine, it is made outside the area the alpes-de-Haute-Provence, near milk but now it is made with cow’s
designated by the aOc regulations, so ancient Sisteron, and is decorated with milk. Made in the rhône-alpes area,
the cheesemaker must use another sprigs of the lavender that thrives on it is similar to, but slightly larger than
name. It is available plain or with ash, the region’s rocky plateaus. It is also Saint-Marcellin.
as seen here. known as carré Saint-Domnin. TaSTIng nOTeS The rind is very soft,
TaSTIng nOTeS Matured in a very moist TaSTIng nOTeS The smooth texture wrinkly, and creamy; the interior varies
environment, it develops a soft, sticky, melts in the mouth and is imbued from firm to almost runny and very
wrinkled rind and creamy texture. It is with the scent of lavender and the creamy, with a delicate nutty flavor.
distinctly goaty, with a nutty taste and subtle flavors associated with this HOw TO enjOy accompany it with
a light, moldy aroma. sun-drenched land. a sharp, strong-tasting red wine such
HOw TO enjOy It is excellent with any of HOw TO enjOy It makes the perfect as Saint amour or a white Vin de Paille
the crisp white wines of the Loire or a ending to a hearty lunch; serve with from jura.
light red wine of the chinon. a Provençal rosé or a sweet Muscat de
Beaumes-de-Venise.
FRANCE Saint-Christophe-Vallon, FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte-D’Azur FRANCE Saint Félicien, Rhône-Alpes
Midi-Pyrénées Age 2 weeks Age 2 weeks
Age 2–3 weeks Weight and shape 51⁄2oz (150g), square Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round
Weight and Shape 10oz (280g), log Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 1in Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm)
(3cm) Milk Cow
84 Size L. 51⁄2in (14cm), W: 2in (5.5cm), Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh
Classification Aged fresh Producer Etoile du Vercors Dairy
H: 11⁄2in (4.5cm) Producer Various
Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Pavé Jacquin
Saint-Florentin Saint-Jacques Saint-Marcellin
Saint-florentin, a town near the The farm on which this soft white This pale and creamy cheese has been france
famous wine area of chablis, is also cheese is made lies on the edge of the made in homes and small farms in the
located in the heart of one of france’s famous forest of rambouillet, near Dauphine region for centuries. It is
great dairy regions. The traditional- Paris. Originally a cereal farm with a traditionally produced from goat’s milk,
style cheeses, with their reddish-brown small herd of cows, the dairy side has but today, all but a handful are made
crusts, are now quite rare, having been gradually taken over, and they now from cow’s milk.
replaced by paler, factory-made cheeses produce hand made cheese six days a TaSTInG nOTeS The taste, texture and
that are sold when very young. week using milk from their own herd. appearance vary according to how the
TaSTInG nOTeS The smooth, shiny rind TaSTInG nOTeS The thin, very soft rind cheese is ripened, but the best have an
has a strong penetrating aroma, while encases a creamy interior that varies in orange-tinged rind and are soft inside.
the supple interior has a fresh, slightly texture from firm to almost runny. Its Saint-Marcellin can be firm to creamy,
salty flavor and can be quite spicy. flavor hints delicately of mushrooms. almost liquid, with a light, subtle
HOW TO enJOY It makes a delicious HOW TO enJOY complement it with a soft lemony freshness and a nutty aroma.
addition to a fresh salad, and is best and gentle claret, such as Pomerol, so HOW TO enJOY It is superb when baked;
served with a robust Burgundy. as not to overpower it. serve with a light and fruity Beaujolais
or fruity côtes du rhône.
FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Ile-de-France FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 85
Age 2 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round Weight and Shape 121⁄2oz (350g), round Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow or goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Aged fresh
Producer Fromagerie Lincet Producer Ferme de la Tremblaye Producer Various
France
86
LANGRES The cheese has been rubbed
frequently with a mix of the natural dye
annatto and brine, giving it a gorgeous
tangerine-orange sticky rind that attracts
white Penicillium candidum mold once the
washing stops. (See p63.)
Saint-Nectaire AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-la- Sarments d’Amour france
Dalmerie
one of the great cheeses of france, for centuries, the vineyards around
Saint-nectaire is made with milk from at the monastery of St. nicholas, Lyon have been home to herds of goats,
Salers cows that graze the rich and founded in 1965, the monks live off the which produce the milk for these
perfumed volcanic pastures of the land and keep goats. Using raw milk charming cheeses. These vineyards are
uplands of the auvergne region. The from the herd, they create an aromatic the inspiration behind the “branch of
traditional methods of production have cheese, redolent with the flavor of love” that decorates this modern
been aoc protected since 1955. thyme. as the rind develops, it turns french cheese; the protruding vine
TaSTing noTeS at maturity, the thick from gentle orange to chestnut in color. stem lends it an attractive air.
rind gives off a subtle, slightly pungent The interior is stark white. TaSTing noTeS Sarments d’amour has
aroma of straw and mushrooms, while a dense white paste that feels luscious
the paste should have a pronounced TaSTing noTeS Tangy, fruity, deep in the mouth and a subtle, but distinct,
taste of nut, milk, and lush pastures. flavors typical of only the best goat goat flavor.
how To enjoy eat on its own with crusty cheese characterize this fine example, how To enjoy its charming appearance
bread and any light fruity wines, which is firm to the touch but melts in and small size make it perfect for an
especially côteaux d’auvergne and the mouth. appetizer; serve it with a crisp rosé or
côtes roannaises. even a sparkling wine.
how To enjoy accompanied by a glass of
fruity dry white wine.
FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 87
Age 8–10 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 1 week
Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), bar Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), cone
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1½in (4cm) Size W. 11⁄2in (4cm), L. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), Size Various
Milk Cow H. 1in (3cm) Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer Various
Producer Le Monastère Orthodoxe
Saint-Nicolas
Selles-sur-Cher AOC Signal Soumaintrain
France This popular goat cheese has been aOc This seasonal cheese is made only from This brine-washed cheese is a
protected since 1975 to maintain its March to november from the milk of member of the epoisses family, but
traditional artisan methods of goats that graze near Lac Soumaintrain is larger and tends to be
production. about 1.3 liters of milk are d’aiguebellette in Savoie. This is eaten when much younger when it has
needed to make a single Selles-Sur- France’s third-largest lake, and it is set a very thin orangey rind. The summer
cher; it is then coated with ash on against a stunning backdrop of cheese is creamy and fresh, but it can
which a bluish-gray mold develops. meadows, forests and the mountains of be left to mature until winter, when it
TaSTInG nOTeS It has a firm texture epine, which were crossed in 218bce by has a slightly harder rind.
but melts in the mouth. The taste is Hannibal, his army, and 37 elephants. TaSTInG nOTeS The rind is barely formed,
a combination of sour, salty, and sweet. TaSTInG nOTeS The very dense and moist, and orange in color, while the
The locals eat the rind because they rich paste is quite similar to that of paste is soft but grainy, becoming
believe it gives the truest taste. charolais, while the flavor has a hint of smoother with age. It has a spicy tang
HOW TO enJOY Team Selles-Sur-cher mountain flowers. and a penetrating aroma.
with all dry whites and rosés of Blésois, HOW TO enJOY eat this flavorsome HOW TO enJOY Team this young cheese
and light and fruity reds of Touraine, cheese with ripe, fresh fruit, such as with full-bodied Burgundies, such as
such as chinon and Bourgeuil. pears and mountain berries. nuits and Beaune.
FRANCE Centre FRANCE Savoie, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Epoisses, Bourgogne; Brochon,
Age 10–21 days Age 3 weeks Bourgogne
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–5oz (125–140g), Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Age 6 weeks
round Size Various Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), round
Milk Goat Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
88 Size Various, D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow
Producer La Chèvrerie du Signal Classification Semi-soft
(pictured) Producer Fromagerie Berthault; Fromagerie
Milk Goat Gaugry
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
Tarentais Taupinette Tétoun de Santa Agata
Charentaise
This authentic fermier, or farmhouse, The name of this goat cheese translates
cheese originates in the Tarentaise This cheese is at its best in spring. to “Santa agata’s nipple” because of
Valley in the mountains that border The curd of Taupinette is ladled into the peppercorn on its peak. The cheese
Italy. It is washed with a regional dome-shaped molds to mature. sits on a bed of sweet, herbaceous
white wine. The best cheeses are The crinkled, gray-white rind of the Provençal olive oil and finely chopped
those aged by affineur Denis Provent, finished product closely resembles herbs, giving it an original taste
in chambery. sphere-shaped coral. and appearance.
TaSTInG nOTeS Tarentais has buttery and TaSTInG nOTeS Taupinette has a mild, TaSTInG nOTeS The contrast of france
flowery flavors and a long finish. sometimes nutty flavor that becomes smooth, white creamy paste with
although it is usually eaten fresh, it more robust stronger as it ages and the olive oil and fresh herbs gives this
can be allowed to mature to take on a mold spreads. It has a smooth texture delicately flavored cheese a wonderfully
more piquant flavor. when young. aromatic quality.
HOW TO enJOY It is superb broiled or HOW TO enJOY Serve this attractive HOW TO enJOY for full effect, serve it
served on its own with bread or quince cheese with a red wine such as Pinot alone, spread on bread, or lightly
paste, and it goes well with a salad or noir or Saint Joseph. melted. excellent with a light rosé
roast vegetables. de Provence wine.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur 89
Age 15 days–3 months Age 3 weeks Age 1–2 weeks
Weight and Shape 81⁄2oz (240g), cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), sphere Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), cone
Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 31⁄2in (8.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm) base, H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh Classification Fresh
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various
France Tome des Bauges AOC Tomme à l’Ancienne Tomme de Brebis
Corse
The milk for this semi-soft cheese Invented by a couple living near the
comes from the cows grazing on the town of Banon, Tomme à l’ancienne is This typical corsican hard cheese has
alpine pastures of the natural Park made with pure goat’s milk and is a rustic, brown wrinkled crust and is
of Bauges. The meadows of wild flowers ladled by hand into disc-shaped molds made with ewe’s milk. It is similar to
provide a rich diet for the cows, which to create delicate soft texture. the Basque cheese Ossau-Iraty.
is reflected in the sweet, complex TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese is marinated
flavors of this cheese. in a strong local brandy—the eau de vie TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese contains
TaSTInG nOTeS One of the tastiest of the (the water of life)—along with some a wonderful mix of delicate corsican
Tomme de Savoie cheeses, since it is pepper, cloves, thyme, and bay leaves. aromas, including pepper, the native
made with full milk and lightly pressed This combination gives it a wonderful aromatic scrub or ‘maquis’.
to give it a supple texture with tiny complexity of flavors.
holes. The rind becomes thick, HOW TO enJOY It is delicious served with HOW TO enJOY Fig jam makes a very
wrinkled, and gray with age. fresh figs and nuts and either a glass of tasty accompaniment. Serve with
HOW TO enJOY combine it with hazelnuts eau de vie or a local rosé wine. a good corsican wine, a chinon,
and prunes, or add to omelets, soups or a Menetou Salon, or a Faugères.
a salad with fennel and endive.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Region Corse
Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 3 months
Age Around 5 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), disc Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), cylinder
Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm) , H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), round Milk Goat Milk type Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
90 Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Producer Various Producer Various
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Tomme Caprine des Tomme de Chartreux Tomme de Chèvre des france
Pyrénées Charentes
chartreux is a member of the Tomme
This fermier goat cheese is produced in de Savoie family, which is a generic It is produced by just one farmer on the
the Pyrénées, a region better known for name for Savoie cheeses that differ small Island of ré, near La rochelle.
its excellent ewe’s milk cheese. This from producer to producer. This cheese, This goat cheese is washed twice
hard cheese is at its best when made with its flavoring of mountain herbs, a week with a mix of brine and local
during the spring and summer months, has characteristics reminiscent of the white wine to develop the complexity
which is when the mountainside Swiss raclette (see p241), but with a of aromas and flavors for which it
pastures are at their most verdant. bite. This similarity is not surprising is renowned.
because the family makers of this
TaSTInG nOTeS The taste is rich and cheese originate from Switzerland. TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor is rich, with
buttery, and it has a melt-in-the-mouth TaSTInG nOTeS It varies from mild and a sea breeze tang that is derived from
texture. The pleasant aroma is flowery milky to nutty with a rich savory tang the atlantic Ocean surrounding the
and exotic. and a pleasant farmyard aroma. island. The rind is hard and compact.
hOw TO enjOy Try with fresh fruit and
hOw TO enjOy Team this rustic goat a light, fruity Savoie wine or richer hOw TO enjOy Serve lightly grilled on
cheese with a sweet jurançon wine. regional wines, such as Mondeuse. crusty bread with apples, walnuts, or
with a mellow white wine, such as
a Muscat.
FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Alex, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Poitou-Charentes 91
Age 6–8 weeks Age 8–16 weeks Age Minimum 3 months
Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel Weight and Shape 5lb 3oz (2.4kg), round Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), wheel
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Schmidhauser Dairy Producer Various
Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOC A ClOSer lOOk
Goats were introduced to the Loire in the 8th century by the Like most aged fresh cheeses,
Saracens who also left behind a lasting legacy of cheesemaking. Sainte-Maure is best when allowed to
Today, the chèvre, “goat cheeses,” of the Loire are perceived by age gracefully in the hands of an
cheese lovers around the world as the benchmark against which affineur, who will sell them at
all aged fresh goat cheeses are measured. varying stages of ripeness depending
on the tastes of the clientèle.
They include six AOC cheeses— milk. The best are made between
As the cheese matures, the
Chabichou du Poitou (p49), Crottin Easter and All Saints Day at the wrinkles will become deeper and
more pronounced.
de Chavignol (p54), Pouligny-Saint- beginning of November.
Pierre (p78), Selle-sur-Cher (p88),
Valençay (p97), and Sainte-Maure. TASTing nOTeS The wood ash
They are made in every conceivable provides a stark contrast against the
shape from tiny buttons, bells, and pure white, slightly grainy interior.
pears to bricks, rounds, cylinders, As the molds develop, it becomes more
logs, and pyramids. They are all dense and the lemony fresh, slightly
undeniable classics, but Sainte- nutty flavor intensifies to a more
Maure de Touraine, until modern aromatic, herbaceous taste typical of
times referred to simply as le long Loire goat’s cheeses. It should not,
chèvre, is one of the most popular. however, develop the musky goat taste
The rind is dusted with ash and that many people find distasteful until
covered with tufted blue molds, the surface becomes deeply wrinkled
patches of gray, and mottled with and covered with dark gray and
pinks and yellow. The high rainfall, reddish molds.
FRANCE warm summers, lush pastures,
woodlands, wide rivers, and rolling HOw TO enjOy Its unusual
hills of the Loire provide the perfect shape makes it an attractive
environment for the goats to produce addition to a cheeseboard,
a high yield of excellent, aromatic like all the Loire chèvre. It is
also an integral part of
Chèvre Salad, France’s
ubiquitous salad, with
thick rings grilled on
slices of crusty bread
bringing out its rich,
aromatic, nutty side.
Sadly, chefs across the
92 world have assumed that
any goat cheese can be used,
but in fact chèvre refers solely
to the Loire-style goat cheeses.
The crisp whites, light Rosés, or fruity
Alpine and Saanen goats are the breeds whose red wines of the Loire make the best
milk is used to make Sainte-Maure. drink companions.
FRANCE Centre and Poitou Charentes
Age 10–28 days
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g),
cylinder
Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), L. 7in (18cm)
Milk Goat
Classification Aged Fresh
Producer Various
THE STRAW The
use of the straw,
paille, indicates the
cheese has been
made by an artisan
producer. You can
also use it to pick the
cheese up, but it will
usually collapse into
large indelicate
chunks.
SHAPING The soft, wet, fragile curds achieved
by coagulation are ladled into log-shaped molds
to drain and take shape.
The surface is
encased with a dusty
blue-gray mold.
THE ASH The logs are sprinkled FrAnCe
with a mix of salt and wood ash.
Halved log The straw inside is placed Initially, only the ash covers the
there by hand and shows that bright, white, moist young curd.
The cheese’s texture is firm, the cheese has been made by an It must be at least 10 days old
almost brittle. artisan producer. when sold, to comply with the
AOC rules.
93
AGING Gradually, the cheese
starts to lose moisture, a soft thin
wrinkly rind develops, and the
surface attracts a variety of micro
flora. First, the familiar white
velvet of penicillium candidum,
then, within 12 days, a delicate
blue powder pufflike mold
appears that will take over from
the white mold.
France Tomme aux Herbes Tomme de Savoie Tommette Brebis des
Alpes
Tomme aux Herbes is a variety of Tomme de savoie, the generic name
the famous French tomme cheeses. for the cheeses or “tommes” of savoie, The high altitudes of this region
It has a thin layer of herbs pressed into vary from producer to producer, village produce glorious pastureland, that
the rind. to village, and season to season. some influences the wonderful flavors of
TasTIng noTes It is supple yet dense and may be flavored with herbs, or spices cheeses produced here. This particular
more buttery than most tommes, it such as cumin, or aged under example is made in small quantities
absorbs the essence of the aromatic a thick layer of marc, the residue left and is distinguished by its brown rind.
herbs that coat the rind, dominated after wine pressing. The “Brebis” of its name signifies the
by thyme and rosemary. TasTIng noTes The flavor ranges from use of ewe’s milk.
How To enjoy nothing beats a tomme mild and milky to nutty with a savory
purchased locally and consumed along tang. It has a herbaceous or farmyard TasTIng noTes This cheese has a mix
with warm crusty bread and a local aroma. a label showing four red hearts of delicate aromas and herbaceous
red, such as cornas. is a guarantee of quality. flavors, evocative of alpine meadows.
How To enjoy excellent baked or broiled.
Try with light, fruity savoie wines or a How To enjoy gooseberry jam makes
lively Mondeuse or les abymes. a tasty accompaniment. serve with
a fruity and bodied red wine, such as
chinon or Menetou salon.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes
Age 1–2 months Age 2–4 months
Age 3 months Weight and Shape 3–6lb (1.35–2.7kg), Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), round
round Size D. 5in (11.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), round Size D. 7–12in (18–30cm), H. 2–3in Milk Ewe
(5–8cm) Classification Semi-soft
94 Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Producer Various
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Tommette de Chèvre Trappe d’Echourgnac Trèfle france
des Bauges
Since 1868, the nuns at the abbaye association des fromagers caprins
This rarely produced, authentic goat d’echourgnac have been using milk Perche et Loir is a group group of seven
cheese originates in the Bauges from neighboring farms to make and artisan cheesemakers and goat farmers
mountains in Savoie. Tommette refers ripen this artisan cheese. Produced who got together in 2002 to create a
to a small tommes—a french term that only in small quantities, it is well new cheese using the milk of their goat
simply means a small cheese that is worth seeking out. herds. The cheese is shaped like a
usually made on small farm in TaSTInG nOTeS Washing with walnut four-leafed clover; trèfle means clover in
mountain regions. It has a hard, dry, liquor gives the rind an attractive french, hence its name.
gray-brown crust. dark brown color, and the supple paste TaSTInG nOTeS Beneath its soft, thin coat
has a smokier taste and a simple, of blue-gray mold, the paste is tender
TaSTInG nOTeS The slightly moist, soft balanced flavor. and the taste peppery and long-lasting.
and sticky paste fills the mouth with HOW TO enJOY It becomes runny and HOW TO enJOY Serve it with sweet ripe
mountain flavors. It has subtle and slightly stringy when cooked, but figs and fresh berries alongside
structured aromas. is especially good for stuffing into a Sauvignon Blanc.
homemade ravioli. Serve with cider
HOW TO enJOY Team this goat cheese or a red or rosé from cahors.
with a fruity, full bodied white wine
of condrieux.
FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Dordogne, Aquitaine FRANCE Pays de la Loire 95
Age 2 months Age 2 months Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 4.6oz, 4-leaf clover
Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (3.5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Producer Abbaye d’Echourgnac Producer Various
France Trois Cornes de Truffe de Valensole U Bel Fiuritu
Vendée
The area around the village of This washed-rind cheese has a thick,
after a halt of several years, production Valensole, in the Haute-Provence slightly sticky, orange rind that is
of this fresh goat cheese, with its region, is renowned for its truffles. This dusted with white and gray mold and
distinctive triangular shape, was hand-shaped cheese reflects its origins exudes a pungent farm-yardy aroma. It
resumed in the 1980s near the seaside by being covered with a fine layer of is one of the few corsican ewe’s milk
city of Marans. The curious name black charcoal to resemble these highly cheeses made with pasteurized milk.
comes from the shape of the famous scented and much-prized mushrooms. TaSTInG nOTeS Supple, smooth, and
goat’s horn belonging to Monsieur TaSTInG nOTeS Soft and almost mousse- creamy with small holes scattered
Seguin, a character in the tales of the like with a delicate lemony freshness through the pale yellow paste. Its sweet
French writer alphonse Daudet. and a hint of herbs on the finish. aromatic flavor reflects the corsican
HOW TO enJOY For pure luxury, try it landscape and the wild herbs and
TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is bold and rich stirred into pasta with a fine shaving of grasses on which the sheep graze.
with a bittersweet flavor. It is best fresh truffles. Serve with a light white HOW TO enJOY U Bel Fiuritu can be
eaten fresh, but can be cured for one or wine, such as coteaux Varois, or with enjoyed with full-bodied, structured red
two weeks. a light fruity red, such as Beaujolais. wines, such as a Muscat du cap corse
or a 12-year-old Frontignan.
HOW TO enJOY Try with dry white Loire
wines such as Sancerre or chinon.
FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Venaco, Corse
Age Around 2 weeks Age 4–10 weeks
Age 1 month Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), ball Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round
Size Various Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), triangular Milk Goat Milk Ewe
Classification Aged fresh Classification Semi-soft
96 Size H. 31⁄2in (9cm), W. 1in (2.5cm) Producer Various Producer Pierucci Dairy
Milk Goat
Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various
U Pecurinu Valençay AOC Venaco
U Pecurinu is a dense washed-rind It is said that this cheese was once named after a small picturesque france
cheese from corsica, an island made in the shape of a pyramid, but on village in central corsica where it was
renowned for its unique and flavorful seeing it, napoleon became angry once made, this is one of the best
cheeses, thanks to its warm climate, because it reminded him of his known corsican cheeses. It is a
robust local breeds, and wild and egyptian defeat and he angrily washed-rind fermier cheese and is best
diverse grazing. chopped off the top with his sword, when produced between spring and
TaSTInG nOTeS This semi-soft cheese is creating a truncated shape. Valençay fall, the milk benefiting from the sheep
tender and buttery and has a complex has been aOc protected since 1998. grazing lush pastures.
herbaceous flavor with vegetal TaSTInG nOTeS This natural-rinded TaSTInG nOTeS Beneath its thin and
overtones. The repeated washing leaves cheese is covered in salted charcoal sticky orange rind, the paste is dense
a lingering meaty tang and pungent ashes. It has a soft, moist paste and yet soft and sticky with a full-bodied
farmyard aroma. a mild and slightly nutty flavor. and very spicy taste.
HOW TO enJOY corsicans often eat this HOW TO enJOY Valençay is delicious HOW TO enJOY Spread sparingly on bread
cheese with fig jam; a fruity red wine paired with all fruity and lively white with herbs, garlic, or olive oil for an
makes the perfect accompaniment. wines of the Berry and Touraine excellent snack. Sharp and tasty, it is
regions of france, especially Sancerre. best with big reds like Gigondas.
FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre region FRANCE Corse 97
Age 2–16 weeks Age 5 weeks Age 3–4 months
Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Weight and Shape 7–9oz (200–250g), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 10oz
Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) truncated pyramid (500–750g), round
Milk Ewe Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm) base, 1–11⁄2in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Classification Semi-soft (3.5–4cm) top, 21⁄2–3in (H. 6–7cm) Milk Ewe
Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft
Classification Aged fresh Producer Various
Producer Various
FrAnce
98
SELLES-SUR-CHER Over the fine ash
coating, a fine, velvetlike white Penicillium
candidum mold is overlaid by splotches
of blue-gray Penicillium glaucum. As the
cheese dries out, the original skin shrinks
and wrinkles. (See p88).
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