World Cheese Book by DK (z-lib.org)

Ventadour Vieux-Boulogne Vieux-Lille

Ventadour originates from corrèze— considered to be one of the most Once eaten down in the pits by miners, france
part of the Limousin—which lays claim odorous cheeses in the world, Vieux- the nickname of this cheese is “Puant
to 3,106 miles (5,000km) of river, Boulogne is washed with beer several de Lille,” or “the smelly cheese of Lille,”
including the corrèze itself. The times during the production process. because of its strong farm-yard aroma.
unadulterated countryside of this rural Despite its strong aroma, the taste is It is similar to Maroilles (see p68), but
idyll allows farmers such as Xavier not aggressive or overpowering. is soaked, rather than washed, in brine
cornet to indulge a passion for TaSTInG nOTeS The rind is orange and and aged for longer.
cheesemaking; he established his the paste rubbery with small holes. TaSTInG nOTeS It has a very powerful,
well-respected dairy in 1977. Surprisingly enough, Vieux-Boulogne sometimes piquant, salty taste with a
TaSTInG nOTeS The taste of this goat is not sharp; instead, it has a rich and thin, barely formed, slightly sticky pale
cheese changes according to its age: it mellow flavor. orange-colored rind and supple, dense,
can be very sweet or spicy but is always HOW TO enJOY It is too strong for most and slightly dry texture.
full of subtle flavors, with a delicate dishes and is best enjoyed with crusty HOW TO enJOY Serve it with juniper
hint of goat. bread and a variety of drinks—from berries and a variety of drinks, such as
HOW TO enJOY eat with a white Loire a good-quality beer to champagne or beer, black coffee, or even light wines—
wine, such as Sancerre. full-bodied red wines. the taste is not as pungent as the scent.

FRANCE Corrèze, Limousin FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais 99
Age 3–6 weeks Age 7–9 weeks Age 3–4 months
Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), square Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), square
Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size L. 4in (10.5cm), W. 4in (10.5cm), H. Size L. 5in (12cm), W. 5in (12cm), H. 2in
Milk Goat 11⁄2in (4cm) (5cm)
Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Xavier Cornet Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various

More Cheeses Abbaye de Troisvaux Bastelicaccia
of France
This is one of several cheeses that are originating in the south of corse,
The following cheeses are produced at the abbaye de Troisvaux. Bastelicaccia is a ewe’s-milk cheese
rare—either because they are This semi-soft, washed-rind cheese is with a thin and fragile rind. it is made
only available seasonally or based on Trappist-style cheeses like using a little rennet; this addition
because they are produced in Trappe de Beval. another of these makes the curdling last longer and
very remote areas. as a result, cheeses is Losange de Saint-Paul, creates a creamy, smooth paste.
it has proved impossible to which is also a washed-rind cheese but
photograph them, but as they it is molded into a lozenger shape. TaSTing noTeS old-school Bastelicaccia,
are important and interesting made during the winter months, is fine,
examples of French cheese, we TaSTing noTeS The elastic rind is fragile, and very creamy. The fresher
are including them. a yellow-orange color from being and younger it is, the more character
So, read, savor, and seek out. washed with beer during maturation. it has. Most producers, however, age
The paste is smooth and creamy, Bastelicaccia longer, resulting in
without any bitterness, and has a more robust flavor.
a mild aroma.
how To enjoy as this is a rare cheese,
how To enjoy Team this cheese with it is an impressive addition to any
a light and fruity red wine, such as cheeseboard. Serve it with light red
a Beaujolais or a Bourgogne. wine, such as a chinon.

FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Corse
Age 5–6 weeks Age 2–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 17oz (480g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), drum
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Abbaye de Troisvaux Producer Various

France Boulette de Papleux Crabotin Crémet du Cap
Blanc-Nez
a variation on Boulette d’avesnes This is an unfairly little-known goat’s
(see p40), Boulette de Papleux is made milk cheese. The name is derived from a beautiful and rare heavy-cream,
from young, imperfect Maroilles the occitan language; crabot simply white-rinded farmhouse cheese that
cheeses rather than from fresh curd. means caprine, which translates as takes its name from the white clay
it is then mashed with pepper, cloves, relating to goats. The cheese is washed cliffs of the cap Blanc-nez, between
tarragon, and parsley. with brine during maturation, Boulogne-sur-Mer and calais.
TaSTing noTeS its deep red, beer-washed producing a distinctive looking
rind is covered with paprika, while the orange-colored rind. TaSTing noTeS The high cream content
100 paste is ivory white and flecked with TaSTing noTeS This delicious cheese has gives it a very rich taste that leaves
herbs. it is a very strong, hot, spicy a soft paste, a mild and quite creamy, a long finish in the mouth. The salty
cheese in both flavor and aroma. fruity flavor, and a very goaty aroma. flavor is reminiscent of the breezes
how To enjoy a hearty winter cheese, coming off the sea.
because it is strong. it goes well with
beer, very full-bodied wines, such as how To enjoy crabotin is excellent eaten how To enjoy This is delicious eaten
cahors or Brouilly, or a shot of gin. with fresh crusty bread and fruit with bread and honey. Team it with
preserves. it is very well paired with a champagne or a fruity white
Madiran wine. wine, such as Mont Louis from the
Loire valley.

FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Aquitaine, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Wiere Effroy, Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Age 2–3 months Age 6 weeks Age 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), dome
Size D. 3in (7.5cm) , H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size Various
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. Bernard)

Fort de Béthune Mascare Mont Ventoux

cheeses of the nord-Pas-de-calais are This goat’s-milk cheese originates in This goat cheese is unique for its
known for their strong flavors—and the ‘provençales’ alps, in Banon. It has very unusual shape. It is molded into
one of strongest of them all is fort de a thin, natural rind that is wrapped in a cone shape to represent Mount
Béthune. This cow’s-milk cheese was a decorative chestnut leaf. It is Ventoux, the famous mountain that
once a favorite of the mining a seasonal cheese and is only made by dominates the skyline in the Luberon
community, who would team it with one producer, so it is rarely found area. The top half of the cheese is white,
local beer. It is made by soaking the outside its local area. representing the limestone part of the
pungent local Maroilles cheese in brine TasTIng noTes Beneath its soft, creamy mountain, and the lower half is black
for three months. rind, Mascare has a mild lactic to nutty (with ash), representing the forest.
TasTIng noTes The fermentation process flavor and a soft, almost runny paste TasTIng noTes This is a tender and
used for this cheese gives it a very around the edge as it ripens. smooth cheese with real farmland
creamy, silky texture, but with an how To enjoy at its best when served flavors and aromas.
almost eye-wateringly strong flavor. simply with fresh crusty bread from how To enjoy add this distinctive
how To enjoy eat this spread on bread the local market along with a fruity, cheese to your cheeseboard and serve
alongside a glass of a full-bodied red lively red, white, or rosé wine, alongside a local full-bodied red wine
wine, such as a faugères from preferably from the Mont Ventoux of Vaucluse, such as a gigondas or
Languedoc, or an eau de vie. or Durance area. Mont Ventoux.

FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur
Age 3 months Age 3 weeks Age 10 days
Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), square Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), cone
Size Various Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size Various
Milk type Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Various Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Producer Fromagerie de Banon – M. Greggo Producer Various

Nîmois Persillé des Aravis Tomme de Bargkass france

an interesting addition to a The name comes from the irregular Tomme de Bargkass comes from the
cheeseboard, this newly developed goat dark green veining that looks like Vosges mountains in Lorraine; Barg
cheese is washed with the local red parsley, or persille in french. This means mountain and kass means
wine of costières de nîmes as part of goat’s-milk cheese is produced in the cheese in the local dialect. It is here
the production process, giving the rind aravis Valley in the haute-savoie. Two that farmers also produce Munster
a distinctive dark red color. similar cheeses are made in nearby cheese (see p70).
TasTIng noTes nîmois has a pronounced valleys: Persillé des grand-Bornand
and powerful flavor. Because of this, and Persillé des Thônes. TasTIng noTes The paste is soft, 101
it should be eaten on its own, without TasTIng noTes It has a very savory elastic and has a few holes. It gives off
any accompaniments. and sharp, spicy flavor with a strong a light, soft aroma and has a flavor
how To enjoy Best enjoyed on its own aftertaste. It has a texture similar to of hazelnut with a slightly acidic
with a red wine of costières de nîmes aged cheddar and is best when made aftertaste.
or Pic st. Loup. in summer and fall.
how To enjoy good with all full-bodied how To enjoy Locals often eat this
red wines, such as Mondeuse, cheese with black sourdough bread.
Beaujolais-Village, and chinon. Team it with a Bourgogne, such as
Pommard, or a rhône wine, such as
châteauneuf-du-pape.

FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Vosges, Lorraine
Age 3 weeks Age 2 months Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), round Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), round
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various Producer M. Minoux

vallE Ossolano Stelvio★
d’aOsTa

Fontina★

Tome,
Tomini

PiEmONTE lOmbardia

Bettelmatt, Bagoss, Silter
Bra★,
Castelmagno★, BBGCCBFFGooraieorrteaarrsrrtmmsngnnooca★ozalaaeeirnig,Ptdn,z,dgaozoieda,lMlaa,la★nuodt,★edle,Lllu’SAinaltelavsaeV,aClAreBgmrreìamdsiRbcVoaoanblatioo★lrat,adAACDLBeTaasleolmlgislbraaauokbgEVlnBäieoaadsaNt★cl,oedsoT,,ai,asi,sNinOaV-ePazuzlsetTneraOiaadiMgPouErzlazcocnoe di Moena
Gorgonzola★,
Paglierine Italico,
Murazzano★,
Raschera★,
Robiola d’Alba, Pannerone

Robiola di Roccaverano★,
Sora,
Taleggio★,
Toma Piemontese, Italico, Bastardo del Grappa, Piave friUli-vENEzia
Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo★ Parmigiano-Reggiano★, Morlacco giUlia
ligUria Quartirolo Lombardo★,
Strachìtunt, vENETO Carnia
liGurian sea Taleggio★,
Valtellina Casera★ Monte Veronese★, Pannarello
Montasio★,
Emilia-rOmagNa Fontal Casatella Trevigiana, ★ Latteria
Formaggio Ubriaco, Pannarello

Italico,
Taleggio
Trentingrana★, Gulf of
Provolone Valpadana★,
italy Formaggio di Fossa, Venice
Parmigiano-Reggiano★

cheese has been an integral part of the Squacquerone di Romagna
italian lifestyle since before the time of
the romans, who were responsible for TOscaNa
introducing hard cheesemaking to many
European countries. The depth and breadth Pecorino Romana★, saN mariNO
of the varieties (cow, goat, sheep, and Pecorino Toscano★,
buffalo) is unrivaled in any other country Pecorino di Pienza,
except france. Spressa delle Giudicarie★

many of the cheeses are still made Casciotta d’Urbino★
with rare, indigenous breeds and in
alpine pastures, and come under the isOla Umbria
protection of the European Union PdO di Elba
scheme. some of the oldest and most precious Marzolino iTaly marchE
artisan cheeses come under the umbrella of vaTicaN Formaggio di Fossa
a slow food Presidium. ciTy

PrOdUcEd ThrOUghOUT
ThE cOUNTry
Caciocavallo, N
Caciotta,
Caprino Fresco, adriatic sea
Caprino Stagionato,
Mascarpone,
Provolone,
Ricotta di Pecora

lazio abruzzo

sardegna Caciocavallo Podolico,
Calcagno, Mozzarella di Bufala,
Fiore Sardo ★, Ricotta di Bufala Campana,
Pecorino Sardo ★, Ricotta Romana★
Toscanello
molise
Key Caciocavallo Silano ★

★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Canestrato Pugliese ★

Produced only here tyrrhenian sea Pecorino Laticauda
Produced throughout the region
Puglia

camPania Burrata
Caciocavallo Podolico, Caciocavallo Silano★,
Caciocavallo Silano★, Cacioricotta,
Caciocavallo Occhiato, Canestrato di Vacca or di Pecora,
Mozzarella di Bufala, Stracciata,
Provolone del Monaco, Pecorino Dauno
Scamorza

basilicata
Caciocavallo Silano★,
Cacioricotta,
Canestrato Moliterno Stagionata in Fondaco,
Pecorino di Filiano★

sicily Primo Sale calabria
Caciocavallo Podolico,
Calcagno, Caciocavallo Silano★,
Canestrato di Vacca or di Pecora, Pecorino Crotonese
Pecorino Siciliano★,
Piacentinu Ennese, 50 miles
Ragusano★, 50 km
Vastedda della Valle del Belice

mediterranean sea

italy

Almkäse Asiago PDO Bagòss

i t a ly Deriving its name from the German Made only within officially recognized Bagòss is the local nickname for the
Alm, meaning “alpine pasture,” this production areas, this cheese takes its residents of Bagolino. Made from raw
part full-cream, part-skim raw milk name from the homonym plateau. it is milk from cattle grazing on mountain
cheese is one of the oldest in Bolzano. available as two types: asiago Pressato pastures, this hard cheese must be
the cheeses are turned, scraped, and is made in low-lying pastures and is matured for at least 12 months, but on
brushed every day for three months semi-soft with irregular-shaped holes; average is at least 24–36 months old.
until they are an ivory-white to deep asiago d’allevo is hard and made using During aging, the cheeses are brushed
straw-yellow and dotted with small milk from mountain pastures. with raw linseed oil, which gives the
holes or “eyes.” tastinG notes springy and moist in rind an ocher brown color.
tastinG notes Firm with sweet rather texture, asiago Pressato is aromatic, tastinG notes Has strong aromas of
than sharp high notes, it has a floral fairly salty, and slightly piquant. saffron, then of floral pastures and hay.
aroma reminiscent of alpine meadows. asiago d’allevo is drier, crumbly to the early fresh green notes combine with a
How to enjoy it grates and melts well. bite, and has a savory, spiced flavor. slight almond taste and a tangy finish.
wrap in thin slices of sautéed eggplant
and serve with olive bread and a white How to enjoy Perfect with a Cabernet How to enjoy Use as a table cheese,
schiava Grigia. sauvignon, from Friuli’s Colli orientali, or grate over pasta. try with a robust
or torcolato Maculan. red wine like amarone.

104 ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lombardia
Age 6–8 months Age 20–40 days Age Over 12 months
Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–31lb Weight and Shape 241⁄4–33lb (11–15kg), Weight and Shape 30–481⁄2lb (14–22kg),
(7–14kg), flat wheel wheel flat wheel
Size D. 14–151⁄2in (35–40cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 41⁄2–6in Size D. 16–20in (40–50cm), H. 5–51⁄2in
(8–10cm) (11–15cm) (12–14cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Bastardo del Grappa Bettelmatt Bitto PDO

Made in mountain dairy huts around legend has it that the flavor of this Named after the fast-flowing River i t a ly
Grappa during the summer months, red-rinded cheese comes from a herb Bitto, this cheese is made in the
this cheese gained the name “Bastardo” known as mottolina, found only in the summer months in mountain dairies or
from being made using a mix of sheep’s, high pastures of Val’d’ossola, but it calecc—unroofed stone refuges that are
goat’s, and cow’s milk, depending on could be just the quality of grazing that covered with canvas when in use. this
availability. Now purely a raw cow’s creates this unique taste. Bettelmatt is is where the maturation process begins,
milk cheese, it has a dark mustard- made in summer from the raw milk of but it is then completed in the valley
yellow rind with burnt brown blotches. Brawn Mountain cattle, using similar cheese stores and can last for ten years.
tastiNG Notes the light, straw-colored methods to those for making Gruyère. tastiNG Notes when young, this
paste darkens with age and has small tastiNG Notes sometimes dotted with cheese has a mild fragrant flavor that
eyes throughout. it has a floral aroma irregular medium eyes, it has a strong, develops into unmistakably nutty notes
and a full flavor with notes of wild buttery, herby aroma and tastes sweet and caramel hints after at least six
herbs, which intensifies as it matures. yet salty with an earthy finish. months maturation.

How to eNjoy eat with semolina or How to eNjoy Used traditionally as How to eNjoy Use in local dishes such
potato gnocchi, along with a Cabernet a table cheese; it is good with polenta as pizzoccheri, a flat pasta, and
Franc or a sparkling Chardonnay. and for filling for agnolotti pasta. sciatt, small buckwheat fritters.

ITALY Veneto ITALY Piedmonte ITALY Lombardia 105
Age 6 months Age 2–6 months Age 70 days–1 year
Weight and Shape 51⁄2–11lb (2.5–5kg), Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8–25kg),
wheel (8–10kg), flat wheel flat wheel with concave size
Size D. 10–12in (25–30cm), H. 3⁄4–3in Size D. 18–211⁄2in (45–55cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 31⁄2–5in (9–12cm)
(2–8cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow and goat
Milk Cow or goat Classification Semi-soft and hard Classification Hard
Classification Semi-soft or hard Producer Various Producer Various
Producer Various

i t a ly

106

CANESTRATO MOLITERNO
the curd is pressed by hand into rush
baskets, then removed and rubbed with
olive oil and sometimes vinegar to create
this waxy, smooth rind with a dusting of
brown and white molds. (See p112).

Bra PDO Branzi Burrata

Named after the town of Bra, famous originating in the village of the same a pasta filata cheese very similar
for the cheese festival held by the Slow name, Branzi cheese uses the milk of to mozzarella, differing only in the
Food organization, Generic Bra is made Brawn Mountain cattle. in the past it stretching technique employed to
from cow’s milk from lowland dairies was made only in alpine huts in the produce it and the fact that Burrata
and can contain small amounts of ewe’s summer, but now it is produced all contains a filling made with the
or goat’s milk. Bra tenero is a semi-soft year. a variety of formai de mut, it has cream from the whey. Burrata means
cheese aged for 45–60 days; Bra Duro a pale yellow paste laced with holes “buttered” in italian, and this cheese
is ripened for at least 180 days. and encased in a yellow-brown crust. certainly lives up to its name.

taStiNG NoteS Bra tenero is soft, mild, taStiNG NoteS when young, the sweet taStiNG NoteS eat it fresh at room i t a ly
and aromatic, while Bra Duro has and milky flavor has a slight aroma of temperature. it has a full buttery
a delicious tang that can almost sting grass. when aged, it can be grated and aroma and tastes mild and sweet with
the tongue with its intensity. tastes stronger, tangy, and nutty. the consistency of very soft mozzarella.
How to eNjoy eat Bra tenero as How to eNjoy Used in polenta taragna How to eNjoy toss with avocado,
a main dish, or use Bra Duro grated (polenta with cheese and butter), and tomatoes, and olive oil, or eat with a
over pasta. Serve with red Bricco with gnocchi made from chestnut flour. salty cured ham. Serve with Primitivo
dell’Uccellone or white Gavi dei Gavi. Serve with Valcalepio Rosso. di Manduria or Moscato di trani.

ITALY Piemonte ITALY Lombardia ITALY Puglia 107
Age 1–2 months (tenero); 6–9 months (duro) Age 1–7 months Age 24–48 hours
Weight and Shape 11–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 11–33lb (5–15kg), Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz
(5–9 kg), flat wheel flat wheel (250–500g), sphere
Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 3–31⁄2in Size D. 16–18in (40–45cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 3–5in (7–12cm)
(7–9cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Fresh
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various
Producer Various

Caciocavallo Caciocavallo Occhiato Caciocavallo Podolico

i t a ly this semi-soft cheese is an archetype of this classic pasta filata cheese has semi-hard when young, this full-fat
the italian cheese-making technology plenty of round eyes, as the occhio cheese hardens after four months of
pasta filata, or “stretched-curd.” in the name suggests. it is produced aging. it is a typical Caciocavallo
Mainly made in southern italy, there using milk of cattle that naturally cheese, made using the milk of
are many regional variations; it is graze on the mountain pastures Podolian cattle that graze on appenine
produced using ewe’s, goat’s, cow’s, or in Campania. mountain pastures.
buffalo milk, and it can also be smoked. tasting notes typically generous with tasting notes extremely aromatic with
tasting notes During the first 30 days propionic aroma, it is elastic when vegetal cues of mountain herbs and
of maturation it is sweet, milky, and young, and friable when aged. More flowers. Basically sweet, it has a very
buttery; after 90 days it becomes sweet than tangy, citrusy, and floral high solubility with persistent nutty
pungent with oily and gamey flavors. hints are also present. and spicy hints.
How to enjoy when the cheese is
How to enjoy serve with rustic bread How to enjoy eat on its own, in a well aged, simply serve dressed with
and a sparkling white wine. salad, or with vegetables. Pair it with olive oil. it is great alongside aglianico
aglianico sorrentino wine or, for those del Volture di Paternoster or Moscato
who like sweet tastes, try a lacryma di saracena.
Christi del Vesuvio.

108 ITALY All over ITALY Campania ITALY Lazio, Campania, and Calabria
Age From a few days until one year Age 3–6 months Age 1 month–1 year
Weight and Shape 21⁄4–22lb (1–10kg), Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb (2–3kg),
sphere (8–12kg), oval or sphere oval or sphere
Size Various. D. 41⁄2–8in (11–20cm), Size Various. D. 12in (30cm), H. 13in (33cm) Size Various. D. 6in (15cm) (pictured)
H. 9in (23cm) (pictured) (pictured) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Hard
Classification Semi-soft or hard Classification Semi-soft or hard Producer Various
Producer Various Producer Various

Caciocavallo Silano Caciotta Calcagno i t a ly
PDO
One of the most popular italian this traditional sheep’s cheese is made
Originating in the Middle ages, this cheeses, Caciotta is made throughout by simply adding black peppercorns to
semi-soft cow’s milk cheese was already the country, using every type of milk— fresh curd, draining the cheeses in
well known during the 14th century often mixed. sold as a fresh cheese or hand-woven rush baskets and, once
and continues to be popular now. it semi-soft, it could also be ripened to salted, aging them for at least three
appears light-straw colored when become hard. months. the baskets leave behind
young and brown when aged. tasting nOtes Usually mild and sweet a pattern on the brownish-yellow rind.
with a milky and creamy aroma when tasting nOtes Calcagno becomes grainy
tasting nOtes a typical stirred paste made using cow’s milk; is intense, with age, and as it matures the taste
with small and sparse eyes. its taste buttery, and mushroomy when made becomes saltier, pungent, and spicy,
is aromatic and sharply sweet with using sheep’s or goat’s milk, or a mix. and the sheep flavor more distinct.
milky and buttery cues when young, HOw tO enjOy eat as a snack. Unites HOw tO enjOy serve a younger cheese
becoming pungent as it matures. nicely with italian spumante Classico, with roasted peppers and use an older
or pair with a young red wine like cheese for grating over pasta or
HOw tO enjOy traditionally used as Rosso di Franciacorta, or, when vegetable dishes. team with torgiano
a main dish or in stuffed pasta. it’s available, Vino novello. Rosso, or a late-harvested white wine.
happily balanced with greco Bianco
di Melissa or Rosato di scavigna.

ITALY Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, ITALY All over ITALY Sardegna and Sicilia 109
and Puglia Age From a few days to 2–3 months Age 3–10 months
Age 1 month–1 year Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 22lb–33lb (10–15kg),
Weight and Shape 21⁄4–51⁄2lb (1–2.5kg), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) cylinder
various shapes (oval pictured) Milk All Size D. 10–151⁄2in (26–40cm), H. 6in (16cm)
Size Various. D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Classification Various Milk Ewe
(pictured) Producer Various Classification Flavor-added
Milk Cow Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various

Gorgonzola PDO a cLOsEr LOOk

Everything about Gorgonzola is sexy—its rustic yet elegant In 1970, a Consortium was created
appearance, its voluptuous, melt-in-the-mouth texture, its to ensure Gorgonzola was only made
musky aroma, and its sweet, spicy tang. Even its name is with milk from designated areas, by
seductive. It is thought to be the first blue cheese, and its origin is approved producers. Only those that
steeped in folklore and legend. meet the tough standards are
stamped with the Consortium “G”.

The most charming version is Today, Gorgonzola is made under WOODEN BELT Once firm, the cheese is
the story of a careless youth who, strict regulations by around 40 small removed from the mold, rubbed and rolled in salt
distracted by his young love, left family dairies and large factories. or in brine baths to save labor costs, then
a bundle of moist curd hanging A few artisan cheesemakers still use encased in a wide belt made of thin, slatted,
overnight on a hook in a damp cellar. unpasteurized milk and follow the wood, and left to mature.
The following day, hoping to disguise traditional “two day curd” method,
I T A Ly his mistake, he added the curd to the allowing the curd to become
morning batch. Weeks later, he found naturally inoculated by mold, then
the cheese has a greenish mold mixing it with the curd from the
through the center. Curious, he morning milking. Since the mid
sampled it and found it so good he 1900s, however, most Gorgonzola has
repeated the procedure and the rest, been made in factories using
as they say, is history. pasteurized milk and the “one day
curd” method with the blue mold
Gorgonzola’s first name was added to the milk, producing more
Stracchino di Gorgonzola, derived even blueing than the traditional
from the Italian word stracca cheese, though not as strong a flavor.
meaning "tired", as it was made in
the autumn when the exhausted Gorgonzola is made in large drums
cows returned from the mountain and, when ripe, the sides bulge like a
pastures to the watery meadows of riverbank ready to collapse. Around
Lombardia where Gorgonzola was the edges, it can be slightly grayish—
the main trading town for centuries. but it should never brown, as this
indicates excessive drying and poor
handling.

TasTiNG NOTEs The uneven and
erratically spread streaks and patches
of blue mold impart a sharp, spicy
flavor to the rich, creamy cheese. It
tastes creamier and sweeter than
110 Stilton, but is similar in strength,
whereas Roquefort is stronger, sharper,
and slightly more salty.

The molds, each bears the number of the HOW TO ENjOy Dollop it onto
individual producer, which is imprinted on thick wedges of walnut loaf or stir it
the cheese. into steaming pasta with a little cream
or mascarpone and toasted pinenuts.
ITALY Lombardia and Piedmont Toss into salads with sun-dried
Age 3–6 months tomatoes, kidney beans, and a honey
Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–281⁄2lb dressing, or add to sauces and dips. It is
(6–13kg) , drum exquisite drizzled with a little honey,
Size D. 10–12in (25–30cm), and with most sweet wines including
H. 6–8in (15–20cm) Marsala, a robust red, and even a rosé.
Milk Cow
Classification Blue
Producer Various

FOiL WraPPing To slow the further
development of mold and prevent the

cheese from drying out, each one is wrapped

in foil.

Maturing Traditionally ripened in casere, PiErCing anD graDing At four weeks,
"natural caves", ideal conditions for natural mold each cheese is pierced with thick needles,
formation, now they are ripened in purpose-built encouraging the spread of the blue-green mold.
store rooms to ensure they attain the consistency This is carried out in a place called purgatory,
and high quality demanded by today’s market. where the cheese is kept at around 425ºF (22OºC)
and up to 95 percent humidity. A grader takes a
sample of cheese to check for the even distribution
of the blue mold.

The ivory white interior is paler Once exposed to air, the blue mold grows
than other blue vein cheeses and along the tunnels made by the piercing rods.

almost translucent

i T A ly

111

Drum, quarter The sticky white rind is overlaid
with a medley of orange, brown, red,
gray, and blue molds.

i t a ly Canestrato Moliterno Canestrato Pugliese Caprino Fresco
PDO
Clotted using kid goat’s rennet, this the name of this cheese concisely
hard cheese is molded and drained in like all Canestrato cheeses, this ewe’s describes it: capra means goat and
rush baskets, then ripened in stores milk cheese derives its name from the fresco means fresh. Caprino Fresco is
called fondachi, located a minimum of reed baskets used to drain it. the rind produced by the ancient method of
½ mile (700m) above sea level. is rubbed with olive oil and wine allowing the curd to coagulate over
tasting notes Primitivo is less than six vinegar as the cheese matures to give a 24 hours using only a small quantity
months old and is sweet and salty; golden color. of rennet. at least ten varieties of this
stagionato, aged for six to 12 months, is cheese are produced all over italy.
pungent and salty. Extra, aged over tasting notes the firm and straw- tasting notes this crumbly cheese is
12 months, is very hard, brittle, colored paste has small eyes. its milky fragrant with a delicate, lemony fresh
pungent, and salty. taste has sweet notes, becoming salty acidity, and it has a nutty, slightly
How to enjoy Delicious with slices and pungent with a hint of roast lamb. goaty aroma.
of apple when young, while more How to enjoy typically it is served with
mature cheeses are ideal for grating. How to enjoy Fabulous grated on pasta, bread or crackers, but it can be used for
Perfect with a glass of aglianico del in regional artichoke dishes, or over stuffing pasta or bresaola. Pair it with
Volture Riserva. stuffed lamb and veal cutlets. Pair a glass of Franciacorta Millesimato.
with a red like nero d’avola or a sweet
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce naturale.

112 ITALY Basilicata ITALY Corate, Puglia ITALY All over
Age 2–18 months Age 2–12 months Age 2–5 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–6lb (2–3kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 13⁄4–51⁄2oz (50–150g),
Size D. 8–10in (20–25cm), H. 4–6in Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) small logs
(10–15cm) Milk Ewe Size D. 1–2in (3–5cm), L. 4–6in (10–15cm)
Milk Ewe or goat Classification Hard Milk Goat
Classification Hard Producer Caseificio Pugliese Classification Fresh
Producer Various Producer Various

Caprino Stagionato Carnia Casatella Trevigiana

Caprino Stagionato is made throughout this hard cheese is made from the milk the inclusion of casa, meaning home, i t a ly
italy, particularly in areas where the of the Bruna alpina cattle that graze in this fresh cheese’s name hints at its
grazing is poor because, unlike cows the alps. the best ones are made with original use. it was produced in homes
and ewes, goats are browsers raw milk and aged for over a year, but for the family’s consumption rather
and are happy to feed on rough, to ensure a regular income, most than for sale. now, though, it is made
rocky pastures. producers sell it at around six months. commercially throughout the area in
taSting noteS it has a fine dusting of taSting noteS Sweet when young and small cooperatives.
white mold overlaid with grey and blue. becoming more aromatic as it matures. taSting noteS a soft, tender, shiny
the paste is ivory and tastes better as However, as the pastures change, so creamy cheese with milky and buttery
it matures, when it develops a nutty does the aroma and flavor of the notes and a melt-in-the-mouth texture.
and more distinctive goaty aroma and cheese; at times herbaceous or fruity. Small irregular eyes can be present.
taste. How to enjoy Carnia is typically used in How to enjoy traditionally used to stuff
How to enjoy Caprino Stagionato is frico, a local omelet-type dish, and is Bresaola rosettes as part of a warm
perfect as a table cheese and delicious best served with a local wine like winter italian dish. Casatella goes
grated over pasta dishes. team it with Refosco isonzo del Friuli or Verduzzo well with Prosecco Millesimato Bisol,
a glass of Merlot di torre Rosazza. Friulano Passito. a sparkling wine.

ITALY All over ITALY Friuli-Venezia Giulia ITALY Veneto 113
Age 1–6 months Age 6–12 months or more Age 5–10 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–6lb (2–3kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 14oz–5lb
Size D. 8–10in (20–25cm), H. 4–6in Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) (400g–2.2kg), wheel
(10–15cm) Milk Cow Size D. 3–9in (8–22cm), H. 11⁄2–21⁄2in
Milk Goat Classification Hard (4–6cm)
Classification Hard Producer Various Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Fresh
Producer Various

i t a ly

114

RICOTTA AFFUMICATA a week
after pressing, the cheeses are smoked
over green conifer wood fires. the outside
turns a warm nut brown, and the inside
absorbs the smoky aromas of the fire,
but not the color. (See p135.)

Casciotta d’Urbino Casolet Castelmagno PDO i t a ly
PDO
Produced in the adamello mountains, an ancient cheese, made from the milk
this historic cheese dates back to Casolet, meaning “small cheese.” the of Piedmontese cows, Castelmagno was
1545, when it was mentioned in the rind is stamped with the rosa camuna, traditionally encouraged to develop
writings of the Montefeltro Duke; it is an ancient drawing of a rose found in some internal blueing through cracks
also said to have been a favorite of the rock carvings of Capo di Ponte. in the rind and the fine curd.
Michelangelo. a semi-soft cheese, tasting notes the thin orange rind is nowadays, most is sold before the
Casciotta is made from a combination dusted with white and gray molds. the natural bluing has developed.
of ewe’s milk and some cow’s milk. straw-yellow paste is velvety and tasting notes the crust is wrinkled, the
supple with an aroma of fermented interior is white-yellow and very friable
tasting notes a white or slightly yellow fruits, while the sweet herbaceous or crumbly in the center, and it is
cheese with an elastic texture and an flavors change with the pastures. delicate when young, becoming strong
aroma and taste that is sweet with How to enjoy eat with dried fig conserve and very savory when ripe.
vegetal notes. along with Vendemmia tardiva Cavit How to enjoy traditionally eaten on its
or Franciacorta Millesimato Bellavista. own and married with Barolo or used
How to enjoy traditionally a table in fondues or veloutees (creamy cheese
cheese, it complements Verdicchio dei sauces). it is also delicious with honey.
Castelli di jesi Casal serra or Malvasia
delle lipari.

ITALY Montemaggiore al Matauro, Marche ITALY Lombardia and Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Piemonte 115
Age 20–30 days Age 2–12 months Age 2–6 months
Weight and Shape 13⁄4–23⁄4lb Weight and Shape 3–43⁄4lb (1.3–2kg), Weight and Shape 41⁄2–151⁄2lb (2–7kg), drum
(800g–1.2kg), small cylinder triangle Size D. 6–10in (15–25cm), H. 5–8in
Size D. 5–6in (12–16cm), H. 2–3in (5–7cm) Size D. 8–10in (20–25cm), H. 2–3in (12–20cm)
Milk Ewe and cow (5–8cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Classification Hard
Producer Fattorie Marchigiane Cons. Co-op Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Producer Various

i t a ly Crescenza Dobbiaco Fiore Sardo PDO

this fresh cheese gets it name Unlike most italian cheeses, this is Fiore sardo possibly dates back to the
from the latin carsenza, meaning a rectangular or large brick-shaped Bronze age, and some cheeses are still
“flat bread,” because when it is kept in cheese, so it lends itself to cutting. it is made by shepherds in mountain huts
a warm place, the cheese ferments, made from cow’s milk in the mountain over open fires, then stored in the
swelling up like rising bread and town of Dobbiaco in the attractive rafters to imbue them with their
bursting through its thin rind. region of Val Pusteria. smoky overtones.
tasting notes Crescenza is a fresh and tasting notes the rind is reddish or tasting notes the brown rind, rubbed
delicate cheese with a balanced sweet brownish-red and slightly sticky. the with olive oil, has a distinctive aroma
taste and pleasant, lemony, milky, and paste is supple and straw-yellow with and appearance. the texture is hard
creamy aroma. the paste is moist a few irregular small eyes. Fresh and crumbly with the distinct sweet
and sticky. and lemony, it becomes sweet at the taste of ewe’s milk and a long-lasting,
How to enjoy in italy, Crescenza end with a buttery, vegetal, and smoky, salty, pungent finish.
is sometimes used for preparing nutty aroma. How to enjoy serve as an hors d’oeuvres
a delicate sauce with chestnuts or in How to enjoy great on a cheeseboard with fresh fava beans, or when aged, it
puff-pastry dishes. it goes well with with black rye bread and a generous can be grated over numerous pasta or
Pinot nero or Valcalepio Rosso. aromatic wine or served with polenta. vegetable dishes.

116 ITALY Lombardia ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Sardegna
Age 5–10 days Age 3–5 months Age 3–6 months
Weight and Shape 4lb–41⁄2lb (1.8–2kg), Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), long brick Weight and Shape 31⁄3–8lb 13oz
rectangle Size L. 151⁄2in (40cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (1.5–4kg), drum
Size L. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 11⁄2–2in (10cm) Size D. 6–10in (15–25cm), H. 4–6in
(4–5cm) Milk Cow (10–15cm)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe
Classification Fresh Producer Latteria di Dobbiaco Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various

Fontal Fontina PDO Formaggella del i t a ly
Luinese
Fontal is a combination of two great an exceptional cheese, Fontina is
cheeses: the famous mountain cheese made twice a day from the milk of the this cheese is produced from goats that
Fontina, and Emmental. it is produced Valdostana cows that graze at the foot graze on alpine pastures but, unlike
industrially in much of Northern italy of Mount Blanc. Dating back to the most goat cheeses, it is made using fresh
all year round, rather than only in Middle ages, this semi-soft cheese is milk that is held in vats for around
summer, like Fontina. thought to take its name from a local 30 hours at 39°F (4°C) before being
tastiNg NotEs the rind is reddish-brown family, “Fontin.” coagulated. the curd is then cut very
while the paste is dense, straw-yellow, tastiNg NotEs the washed rind is small to give it a soft, compact texture.
smooth, and slightly elastic. it is a very reddish and sticky while the supple
aromatic cheese, with milky and paste has small holes and a mild, nutty tastiNg NotEs the rind is wrinkled and
buttery notes and a hint of almonds. flavor that hints of the herbaceous white; the paste moist and a little
How to ENjoy Fontal melts superbly, pastures on which the cows graze. friable. it has a great goaty aroma,
so it is ideal in fondues or melted over How to ENjoy Famously used in a a mixture of herbs and goat’s fleece,
vegetables, especially wild mushrooms. fonduta, a dish in which the cheese is and tastes mainly sweet.
Pair it with Pignolo di Filiputti and whipped with eggs and cream. it goes
terre d’agata di salaparuta. well with full-flavored red wines. How to ENjoy a superior cheese, it is
excellent with Cabernet sauvignon di
walch or Moscato strevi Passito.

ITALY Gottolengo, Lombardia ITALY Saint-Cristophe, Valle D’Aosta ITALY Lombardia 117
Age 45–60 days Age 3 months Age 20–30 days
Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb Weight and Shape 13⁄4–2lb (700–900g),
(8–10kg), wheel (8–12kg), flat wheel flat cylinder
Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 5–6in (13–15cm), H. 3–5in (8–12cm)
(7–10cm) (7–10cm) Milk Goat
Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
Producer Various Producer Various

i t a ly Formaggio di Fossa Formaggio Ubriaco Formai de Mut
dell’Alta Val Brembana
Fossa, or “hole,” refers to the technique Ubriaco, or “drunken,” refers to the PDO
by which cheeses are stored in holes technique of placing young cheeses in
carved into the walls of caves in barrels of crushed grape skins and Mut, or “mountain cheese” refers to
Sagliano, which are then sealed with seeds left over from wine-making. the alpine grazing of the cows that
chalk paste to ensure a constant over two to three days, they are make this cheese. this hard cheese is
temperature as the cheeses ripen. sprinkled with wine then left to produced in summer in 40 casere,
taSting noteS Covered in green, mature and harden for a week or more. or “mountain dairies,” and in winter
yellowish, and white mold, the taste taSting noteS the creamy richness 2,500 wheels are made in the valley.
is very variable, but typically it has a of the cheese marries well with the taSting noteS Beneath the thin,
pungent smell and a sharp bitterish distinct flavor and aroma of the wine, straw-tinged, ivory rind the paste is
taste. it is an unforgettable cheese! which varies according to the compact and springy with widely
How to enjoy grate over regional pasta, preferences of the cheesemaker. scattered holes. the delicate taste has
such as passatelli or tortelloni, and How to enjoy Superb when served with an aroma of forage fragrances.
minestrone. impressive when served a baked potato or when partnered with How to enjoy Use in polenta or pasta
with Cagnina di Romagna, or even polenta and mushrooms. try with an dishes. try with Dolcetto d’ovada.
better with albana Passito. aromatic wine.

118 ITALY Emilia Romagna and Marche ITALY Veneto ITALY Lombardia
Age 3–4 months Age 2–12 months Age 7 weeks–6 months
Weight and Shape Various, Various Weight and Shape 51⁄2–11lb (2.5–5kg), Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg), wheel
Size Various drum Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (8cm)
Milk Ewe, cow, or both Size D. 8–10in (20–25cm), H. 2–3in (5–8cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Classification Hard
Producer Various Classification Flavor-added Producer Various
Producer Latteria di Soligo, La Casara di
Roncolato Romano

Grana Padano PDO Italico Latteria

Created in the 12th century by the invented by egidio galbani in 1906 this cheese was created in latteria i t a ly
Cistercian monk of Chiaravalle abbey, along with Bel Paese, italico is now turnaria, where the shareholders are
this hard cheese is now made in produced in numerous dairies in the cheesemakers who all have use of
numerous dairies in the Padana Valley northern italy alongside other the facilities and take turns to make
and is the biggest of all PDO cheeses. well-known cheeses such as Bella their own individual-style cheeses.
tasting nOtes the reddish-yellow or italia, Bella Milano, or Cacio Reale. tasting nOtes the aroma has hints of
yellow rind is very thick while the tasting nOtes with a smooth, straw- milk and cream when the cheese is
paste is hard, white, or straw-yellow yellow rind, italico has a mild delicate young, and flowers and hay when aged.
and brittle. it has a sweet fruity taste, paste, sometimes with small irregular it has a sweet and salty taste and an
and a fragrant, buttery aroma with eyes. sweet, with milky and buttery elastic texture until two to three
hints of dried fruits. notes, it melts in the mouth, having months, from when it becomes compact
HOw tO enjOy it is classically used on a pleasant elasticity when chewed. and floury.
homemade pasta and ravioli, and
in hundreds of other recipes. goes HOw tO enjOy a perfect table cheese, pair HOw tO enjOy enjoy latteria with bread,
well with bold whites, reds and it with raw onions or celery. serve with olive oil, and a glass of red wine: perhaps
sparkling wines. a sparkling white wine such as talento the smoky i Balzini di Filiputti, or a
Millesimato di Carpenè Malvolti. full-bodied amarone di Valpolicella.

ITALY Lombardia ITALY Lombardia, Piemont, and Veneto ITALY Lombardia, Veneto and Friuli 119
Age 1–2 years Age 60 days, Age 1–12 months
Weight and Shape 53–88lb (24–40kg), drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4–41⁄2lb (1–2kg), Weight and Shape 13–17lb 10oz (6–8kg),
Size D. 14–171⁄2in (35–45cm), H. 1–10in small cylinder wheel
(18–25cm) Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 3–5in (8–12cm) Size D. 10–14in (25–35cm), H. 2–3in
Milk Cow Milk Cow (5–8cm)
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Producer Various Producer Galbani, Milano Classification Semi-soft, or hard
Producer Various

Mozzarella di Bufala PDo a closer look

Mozzarella is made around the world and varies from lush, The extraordinarily versatile and
juicy pure white balls to yellow, rubbery blocks of cow’s milk irresistibly stretchy texture of
only suitable for family pizzas. But none can match Mozzarella Mozzarella di Bufala make it loved
di Bufala, made with milk from the handsome water buffalo the world over. However, with its
of Campania. short shelf life and premium price, it
is not readily available outside of
The buffalo was introduced to Italy Europe, so cow’s milk alternatives are
more widely available. If authentically
in the 7th century as a working made, their texture may be similar,
but they lack the earthy, mossy, and
beast to plough the marshes south of new-leather notes of buffalo’s milk.

Naples, but as the Roman Empire THe cUrD the freshly-made curd is allowed to
ferment for a few hours before being cut into
disintegrated, the drainage systems blocks then put through a mill that sheds it into
small pieces. The rubbery pieces are covered
and rivers silted up. The buffalo and with boiling water.

the land were eventually abandoned Whole ball

as malaria became rife. It was not

until the 12th century that records

show cheese was made from its milk.

In the 18th century, the marshes

were once again drained, malaria all

but eradicated, the once wild buffalo The water buffalo of Campania.

now domesticated, and production of TasTing noTes When cut, it has
a grainy texture composed of many
Mozzarella became widespread layers, like cooked chicken. Pearls of
milky whey should seep out. It is very
throughout Campania in southern sweet and mild, like aged but not sour
milk, with an earthy, mossy aroma and
Italy. The recipe was introduced from a taste reminiscent of new leather.
Springy at first, it becomes softer, but
I T A LY the Eastern Mediterranean and never crinkled, slippery, or salty, and is
bitter and sour only when overripe.
Middle East where you can find
How To enjoy Its role is to give
other stretched curd or pasta filata texture rather than taste to a dish and
to trap, absorb, and intensify the juices
cheeses in Israel and Cyprus. and ingredients between its luscious
layers of curd, producing some of the
Rich in calcium, high in protein, and most memorable culinary combinations.
Perfect on pizza; salads of olive oil,
with a high vitamin and mineral salt balsamic vinegar, sun-ripened tomatoes,
and basil; Melanzane alla Parmigiana
content, it is highly nutritious and made with layers of eggplant and
Mozzarella in a tomato sauce; or in a
easily digested, plus, at 21 percent fat carrozza (carriage), sandwiched
between two slices of bread, battered,
(270kcal per 100gm), Mozzarella is and fried. When using fresh Mozzarella
to top a pizza or fill a calzone, it is best
surprisingly low in fat. Protected to slice it and allow it to drain for
several hours in a colander so that the
under Italian and European law, it is crust doesn’t become soggy.

strictly monitored to ensure the

120 quality and provenance of the
product. In fact, authentic

Mozzarella di Bufala can only be

made in seven provinces in Central-

South Italy: Caserta and Salerno,

and part of Benevento, Naples,

Frosinone, Latina, and Rome.

ITALY Campania and Lazio
Age From 1 day
Weight and Shape Various
Size Various
Milk Water buffalo
Classification Fresh
Producer Various

STRETCHING In a process known as
pasta filata, the curds are spun and
stretched into balls, small balls

(bocconcini), or plaits of varying sizes. This
creates layers of curd with droplets of whey

trapped within the concentric circles that
resemble cooked chicken breast.

THE TEXTURE To achieve the desired texture, the
rubbery curd and boiling water is stirred until the
lumps turn into a smooth, plastic looking mass.

I T A LY

Ball, torn 121

When cut, milky moisture
should seep out.

It must not be soft or mushy when
cut, but fibrous and elastic, so that,
if poked, it springs back to its
original shape.

BRINING The balls are put into cold brine
to soak and absorb a small amount of salt
which heightens the flavor and helps to
preserve it.

Marzolino Mascarpone Montasio PDO

i t a ly Marzolino means “little March,” as this fresh cheese is made by heating Created by an unknown monk from the
traditionally this ewe’s cheese was only cream and allowing the natural acidity Moggio abbey during the 13th century,
produced at the beginning of lactation to gradually separate or curdle it, the production of this hard cheese has
in March. When 14-year-old Catherine before draining off the whey. it dates been protected by the Montasio
De’ Medici became Queen Consort of back to the 12th century and was consortium since 1987 and is now also
King Henry ii, in 1533, this cheese was known to be a favorite of napoleon. covered by the PDo scheme.
supplied to the Court of France in order tasting notes Milky colored and tasting notes the taste depends on the
to alleviate her homesickness. velvety smooth, like rich heavy cream, age: fresh, semi-aged, or very old. it can
tasting notes it has a straw-yellow or it has a marked sweet and lemony be milky and buttery when young, and
white paste with irregular eyes, and is taste and a full, persistent, and savory and aromatic when aged. small
full of sweet flavors and floral and buttery aroma. eyes can be present.
vegetal hints. HoW to enjoy essential for making HoW to enjoy try Montasio with large
HoW to enjoy Bomboloni (“doughnuts”) tiramisù and Charlottes, and fantastic ravioli and asparagus. Pair it with
are made with Marzolino, bread, oil, served with apple slices with sugar and a glass of sassò di Felluga, with its
and pepper. good with ansonica lemon. For a wonderful combination, intense spiciness, or the sweet Picolit
dell’argentario or sagrantino Passito. pair it with a classic dessert wine. del Collio.

122 ITALY Roccalbegna Grosseto, Toscana ITALY All over ITALY Veneto
Age 15–90 days, best at 30 days Age Ready after 1 day Age 2–12 months
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2–7oz (100–200g), Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–17lb 10lb
(500g–1.5kg), oval pots (6–8kg), wheel
Size D. 6–81⁄2in (15–22cm), H. 31⁄2–5in Size No size Size D. 12–14in (30–35cm), H. 3in (8cm)
(9–13cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Ewe Classification Fresh Classification Hard
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Consorzio per la Tutela del
Producer Caseificio “Il Fiorino,” Roccalbegna Formaggio Montasio
Grosseto

Monte Veronese PDO Morlacco Murazzano PDO

this was created in 1273 when Bishop named after the Morlocca nomadic one of the Robiolas family of cheeses, i t a ly
Bartholomeus della Scala authorized people, who arrived in italy as Murazzano was documented by Pliny the
the Cimbri shepherds to live in the shepherds from the Balkans and the Elder during the Roman Empire. today
lessinia alps. Even today, pastures and river grappa, this prized cheese was it is still an authentic farmhouse cheese,
grazing cows are the basic elements of originally made with skim milk, as the and is produced by many small dairies.
this traditional product. cream was sold for butter. today it is taSting notES the rind is white-yellow,
taSting notES With a brown-yellow made with semi-skim milk. the texture smooth, fine, and elastic,
rind (sometimes treated with oil), it is taSting notES the thin rind bears the and the flavor is a careful balance of
compact and elastic with a sweet imprint of the basket mold, while the sweet and acid with a creamy aroma
herbaceous taste when young, which ivory paste is soft, yet crumbly, with and vegetal hints.
becomes crumbly and floral in middle delicate floral and fruity notes. HoW to Enjoy it is used in the famous
age, and spicy and fruity when old. HoW to Enjoy Simply serve it with Murazzano’s timbale, and for preparing
HoW to Enjoy great with fruit and nuts. pepper and olive oil, or cook with Bruss (a cream with spices and
team with a full-bodied red, such as gnocchi. it is delightfully matched with grappa, or other spirits). it matches
Recioto di Soave; when very old, pair it Merlot dei Colli trevigiani: a ruby red, perfectly with langhe Freisa di Cozzo,
with a sweet torcolato Maculan. full-bodied, tannic, and balanced wine. or the rich, red Verduno Pelavegra.

ITALY Veneto ITALY Cesiomaggiore, Veneto ITALY Piemonte 123
Age 2, 4 or 8 months Age 3–5 months, better at 3 Age 4–10 days
Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–19lb 3oz Weight and Shape 9lb–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 10–14oz (300–400g),
(6–9kg), wheel (4–8kg), round round
Size D. 10–14in (25–35cm), H. 3–41⁄2in Size D. 8–12in (20–30cm), H. 3–5in Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 1–11⁄2in
(7–11cm) (7–12cm) (3–4cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe, or ewe and cow
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Caseificio Montegrappa, Producer Various
Formaggio di Spelonca

Ossolano Paglierine Pannarello

i t a ly this traditional cheese is made in also called Braculina or Paglietta, this One of only a handful of italian cheeses
summer in mountain huts from the cheese takes its name from the paglia that are made by adding extra cream to
milk of the Bruna alpina cattle that (“straw”) on which it was traditionally the milk before it is curdled. this
graze the Ossola alps. the secret of the placed to allow excess whey to drain off. technique is reflected in its name:
cheese’s flavor lies in the mottolina Created in 1891 by signor Quaglia, in panna, which means “cream.”
herbs, which only grow in that region. san Francesco al Campo, near turin. tasting nOtes Very delicate in the
tasting nOtes the rind is brown and tasting nOtes the white, bloomy rind mouth and very creamy, Pannarello has
the paste creamy or straw-yellow, covers a soft, delicate, creamy paste a scalded milk aroma and taste, and
sometimes with small eyes. With that melts in the mouth and has when eaten it feels almost elastic, but
a sweet taste, it has an intense, herby a fresh, mushroomy aroma and taste. pleasantly so.
aroma and is slightly bitter. HOW tO enjOy Fill Paglierine with HOW tO enjOy Pannarello is perfect for
HOW tO enjOy an impressive way to nuts, raisins, white pepper, and chiles, fondues or paired with mixed-berry
serve this cheese is melted over turkey italian-style, or serve with sesame and jams. try serving it with the sparkling
breasts. it pairs well with a red sizzano ham on crusty bread. Pair with a and fruity white Prosecco Cartizze
di Zanetta, where the bouquet has balanced red such as Dolcetto d’asti, Bisol, or the fresh and grassy white
a hint of violets, and ghemme. or an intense white Roero. Roero arneis.

124 ITALY Corate, Piemonte ITALY Rifreddo, Piemonte ITALY Giavera del Montello, Veneto
Age 2–6 months Age 15–20 days Age 1–2 days
Weight and Shape 11–15lb 7oz (5–7kg), Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 11–19lb 2oz (5–9kg),
wheel (300–500g), small cylinder cylinder
Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 21⁄2–3in Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 11⁄2–2in Size D. 10–12in (25–30cm), H. 6–8cm
(6–8cm) (3–4cm) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Fresh
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Producer Latteria Montello, Latteria
Producer Latteria Sociale Antigoriana Producer Caseificio Oreglia Modolo Dino

Pannerone Pecorino Crotonese Pecorino Dauno

Unlike most cheeses, Pannerone is the art of making Pecorino Crotonese also called Canestrato Foggiano, i t a ly
made without salt, so the flavor is is described in a book written in 1759. this ewe’s milk cheese is shaped using
instead derived from the action of the this hard cheese takes its name from reed basket molds and coagulated with
natural bacteria. the Slow Food the city of Crotone and is made from lamb’s and kid goat’s rennet. the curd
Organization hopes to expand the milk of ewe and goats that graze is cut to the size of rice to create a
production of this cow’s milk cheese. the mountain pastures. the brownish- hard, dense cheese.
taSting nOteS Soft, with myriad small yellow rind bears the imprint of the taSting nOteS Under a yellowish-brown
holes and a persistent alcoholic aroma, rush basket used to drain it. rind, the paste is a yellowish straw color.
it is at first quite mild, but the finish taSting nOteS the straw yellow paste is it tastes sweet, with plenty of aromatic
has a distinct almondy taste and bitter firm, friable, and sometimes has small hints of honey and toasted seeds.
tang, which has led to its near demise. eyes. the taste is pungent and sweet, HOw tO enjOy a typical local dish is
HOw tO enjOy a must-have cheese on an with vegetal aromas. Pecorino Dauno and penne sparie,
italian Christmas eve, stirred into HOw tO enjOy Delicious grated on (pasta with asparagus, tomatoes, eggs,
steamed vegetables. Serve with macaroni or mixed in with ground beef black pepper, and olive oil). it goes well
aromatic Pelago Umani Ronchi, or the and eggplant. team it with full-bodied with Malvasia nera di lecce or
intense Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. Cirò or fruity Bivongi Bianco. aleatico di Puglia liquoroso.

ITALY Pandino, Lombardia ITALY Calabria ITALY Puglia 125
Age 15–20 days Age 2–12 months Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 22–29lb (10–13kg), Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–51⁄2lb Weight and Shape 61⁄2–11lb (3–5kg),
cylinder (1.5–2.5kg), cylinder cylinder
Size D. 11–12in (28–30cm), H. 8in (20cm) Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 5in–6in Size D. 10–12in (25–30cm), H. 6–8in
Milk Cow (12–15cm) (15–20cm)
Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe
Producer Caseificio Uberti 1896, Pandino Classification Hard Classification Hard
Carena, Caselle Lurani Producer Various Producer Various

i t a ly

126

PRIMO SALE Many ancient italian
cheeses were drained in woven or plaited
rush baskets, creating intricate and
attractive patterns on the cheese, which
also identified the producer. (See p129.)

Pecorino di Pienza Pecorino Romano Pecorino Sardo PDO i t a ly
PDO
Sadly, this ancient cheese, also called Pecorino Sardo Dolce is made from
Pecorino delle crete senesi (creta is in 100bce, Pecorino Romano was calf ’s rennet, while Maturo is made
a sort of clay) is now mostly made described by Marcus terentius Varro using lamb’s rennet. Both are made
with pasteurized ewe’s milk. the rind as essential for the rations of the from the milk of sheep that are free
varies in color since it is rubbed during Roman legions, as it provided fat, grazing, rather than housed in barns.
maturation with a mixture of oil and protein, and salt and could survive the taSting noteS Dolce is a young, elastic,
tomato or clay. rigors of soldiers on the move. lamb’s white cheese with buttery and floral
taSting noteS it is very sweet and has rennet is still used for coagulation. notes. Maturo is more intense, and full
an elastic texture that becomes firm of pleasant pungent and salty flavors.
and crunchy with age. the flavor is taSting noteS the firm, compact paste Meat broth notes can also be present.
fruity and floral, and when well is crumbly and crunchy and has the How to enjoy excellent with french
matured, has hints of toasted hazelnuts. sweetness typical of ewe’s milk, with onion soup and lamb dishes. it is also a
a salty tang and hints of lanolin. basic ingredient in the local dish
culingiones, a sort of ravioli with
How to enjoy often used for filling How to enjoy grate over pasta and ricotta and herbs. Pair with Dolcetto di
stuffed peppers and artichokes, or risottos, and serve with Carasau bread Dogliani and nuragus di Cagliari.
grated over grilled lamb. it goes (dry bread), and a glass of Monteso di
perfectly with Chianti dei Colli Senesi. Chianti Rùfina or Vernaccia Sarda.

ITALY Toscana ITALY Toscana ITALY Sardegna 127
Age 1–4 months Age 5–12 months Age Dolce 1–2 months, Maturo 8 months
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–41⁄2lb (1–2kg), Weight and Shape 8–14in (20–35kg), Weight and Shape 21⁄4–23⁄4lb (1–2.3kg),
round cylinder drum
Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 21⁄2–3in (6–8cm) Size D. 10–14in (25–35cm), H. 10–151⁄2in Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 3–5in (8–13cm)
Milk Ewe (25–40cm) Milk Ewe
Classification Hard Milk Ewe Classification Hard
Producer Various Classification Hard Producer Various
Producer Various

i t a ly Pecorino Siciliano Pecorino Toscano Piacentinu Ennese
PDO PDO
First recorded in the days of the Roman
this cheese is documented as far back a historic cheese, during the Roman empire, this cheese is also known as
as 900bce, when Odysseus meets the empire it was referred to by Pliny the Maiorchino. it is flavored with saffron
Cyclops Polyphemus in Homer’s elder as Caseus Lunensis, and in 1832 and black pepper and is shaped in
Odyssey. as in ancient times, this ignazio Malenotti, in his book Manuale traditional reed baskets. the makers
cheese is still hand-made using lamb’s del Pecoraio, wrote about its use of are currently applying for PDO status.
rennet. the brown-yellow rind is vegetable rennet from Cynara tasting nOtes the outside and inside
imprinted with a rush basket design. cardunculus flowers. are marked yellow-orange from the
addition of saffron. it tastes lightly
tasting nOtes yellow and sometimes tasting nOtes the oil-rubbed rind is sweet, but is also pungent and
studded with whole black peppercorns, yellow or brownish-yellow. the paste is astringent with saffron and black
it is firm and friable with a pungent, yellow or white with a sweet taste and pepper notes.
salty, full, and long-lasting flavor. milky aroma. aged, it becomes crumbly HOw tO enjOy Fantastic for melting, it is
and savory with dry, fruity notes. also often used for Bucatini pasta with
HOw tO enjOy serve young cheeses with artichoke hearts. Match it with etna
vegetables; aged ones with bread and HOw tO enjOy eat with a lettuce or Rosso or Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
olives or grated over pasta. team with chicory salad, along with Morellino di
anthìlia Donnafugata or sweet Zibibbo. scansano or Moscadello di Montalcino.

128 ITALY Sicilia ITALY Toscana ITALY Sicilia
Age 4–12 months Age 1–6 months Age 2–4 months
Weight and Shape 9–261⁄2lb (4–12kg), wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 9lb 9oz (4.5kg), cylinder
Size D. 51⁄2–15in (14–38cm), H. 4–7in (1–3.5kg), drum Size D. 81⁄2in (21cm), H. 51⁄2in (15cm)
(10–18cm) Size D. 6–8in (15–22cm), H. 3–5in (7–12cm) Milk Ewe
Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Classification Flavor-added
Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Various
Producer Various Producer Various

Piave Primo Sale Provolone

Made throughout the area around in sicily this ewe’s-milk cheese is also a pasta filata cheese, like Caciocavallo, i t a ly
the Piave river, this hard cheese called Picurino (“lamb”), and it is Provolone was traditionally the
is produced in Latteria—small believed to be the cheese mentioned in cheese of the poor, because just a little
cooperatives where cheesemakers Homer’s Odysseus as the one made by piece gave a lot of flavor. Originally
share facilities—but each makes their Cyclops in his cave. from southern italy, it was brought
own individual cheeses. they are tasting nOtes it has a sharp acidity, to the north at the end of the 19th
currently applying for PDO status. but with sweet notes. the texture is century by the Margiotta and
tasting nOtes the rind is straw-yellow crunchy, with irregular eyes that exude auricchio families.
becoming brown–yellow with age. the whey. the pungent aroma is full of tasting nOtes it can be mild, sweet, and
texture ranges from elastic to firm, herby hints. milky when clotted with calf rennet,
compact, and friable. it has a rich, HOw tO enjOy serve it on the table sliced but has a stronger flavor when the milk
intense fruity sweetness, becoming into thin layers and dressed with olive is coagulated with kid rennet.
more aromatic when aged. oil, salt, black pepper, and chopped HOw tO enjOy the Dolce variety can be
HOw tO enjOy Delicious for snacking, fresh mint. it is often used in fish grilled when young; use Piccante or
cheeseboards, or grating. serve with dishes, too. it goes well with local aged in risotto. Pair with gotturnio di
full-bodied fruity reds like Pinot noir. wines, or pair it with a Pinot grigio. Poggiarello, or Collio Rosso di Russiz.

ITALY Belluno, Veneto ITALY Mirto, Messina, Sicilia ITALY All over 129
Age Fresco 1–2 months, Mezzano Age 7–10 days Age 1–12 months
2–6 months, Vecchio over 6 months Weight and Shape Various, Various Weight and Shape 41⁄2–22lb (2–10kg),;
Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–15lb 7lb Size Various various
(6–7kg), wheel Milk Ewe Size Various
Size D. 12–131⁄2in (30–34cm), H. 3in (8cm) Classification Fresh Milk Cow
Milk Cow Producer Coop. Rochdale, Mirto, Messina Classification Semi-soft
Classification Hard Grifolatte, Colfiorito di Foligno, Perugia Producer Various
Producer Lattebusche, Busche-
Cesiomaggiore, Belluno

Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO a clOseR lOOK

To taste a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano, also known as Parmesan, Parmigiano-Reggiano is made
is to taste a piece of Italian geological, culinary, and cultural on 500 farms producing around
history. This cheese is influenced by the soil, the grazing, the 3.5 million cheeses per year.
climate, and the Consortium who rigidly control its production A staggering 160 gallons of milk
according to a recipe barely changed since the 12th century. are required to make one 85lb (38kg)
drum, and each must reach the
Consorzio’s strict regulations.

I T A Ly The official stamp of the Consorzio. TasTing nOTes Parmigiano- DRaining Large, copper cauldrons are used
Reggiano should never taste sour or to make the cheese. After the curd is broken up,
In 1955, the Consorzio del Formaggio dull, but fresh, fruity, and sweet like an enormous mass forms at the bottom of the
Parmigiano-Reggiano protected the fresh pineapple; strong and rich but not cauldron, requiring two people to raise it using a
name “Parmigiano-Reggiano,” and overpoweringly salty; and certainly not very strong piece of cloth, knotted and slung
lately “Parmesan,” and specified it vicious or bitter, nor should it ever around a length of wood. This huge mass is then
could only be made in the provinces smell acrid. Spring cheeses are a soft cut into two quantities, which are left to hang for
of Modena, Parma, Reggio Emilia, yellow with a delicate flavor and herbal 24 hours to drain off excess whey.
and Bologna in the region of Emilia- scent attributed to the wildflowers on
Romagna and Mantova in which the cows graze. Newly formed BRanDing Cheeses that pass the rigorous
Lombardia. It is also stipulated that wheels of summer-made cheese exude tests are branded with “Parmigiano-Reggiano” to
the cows whose milk is used to butterfat, so they are drier and more indicate they can be aged for another two years
produce it could be fed no silage, only pungent while those made in fall are or more; the addition of “Mezzano” means they
fresh grass, hay, or alfalfa. As a noted for their higher casein content. are suitable for immediate consumption. Later,
result, the cheeses change subtly The diet of hay in winter produces a some will be branded with “Extra” to indicate
with the seasons. paler cheese but is richer tasting. they have passed an additional test, or “Export”
Brittle and crumbly, not plastic or if they are of first-class quality. Those that do not
Parmigiano-Reggiano is made with supple, and pale yellow, a chunk will meet the requirements have their brand polished
skim milk, which reduces the fat last for weeks and a little goes a very off and are sold as Grana, which simply means
130 content; however, it is also very hard long way. “hard cheese” in Italian.
when mature, with significantly
lower moisture content than Cheddar. HOw TO enjOy Superb simply
In Italy it is sold in large rough, eaten in chunks and probably the most
grainy chunks chiselled to order from versatile cheese in the world for
the magnificent shiny drum. cooking, as it dissolves when heated
leaving behind a sweet, fruity, tangy
Italy Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia flavor in virtually any savory dish you
choose to make, from bread to sauces,
age 18–36 months soups, salads, and pasta.

Weight and Shape 83lb (38kg), convex Parmigiano-Reggiano will keep for
drum weeks in the refrigerator but the rough
surface may grow some mold, which
Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 18in (45cm) can be scraped off. Or, if you have
bought a large chunk, or use it
Milk Cow infrequently (an unthinkable
possibility), keep it in, and grate it
Classification Hard straight from, the freezer. It will
quickly defrost on a hot dish.
Producer Various The full-bodied flavor lends itself to
crisp white wines, robust reds, and
even dessert wines.

Exterior The unique number The stamp circles the width of
identifies the dairy. the cheese, ensuring that every
portion has the cheese name on
it, confirming authenticity.

Stamp of quality from Date of manufacture. The distinct, brittle, i t a ly
the Consorzio. crumbly texture
is typical of an
interior aged cheese.

131

i t a ly Provolone del Monaco Provolone Valpadana Puzzone di Moena
(PDO transitory list) PDO
Puzzone means “stinking,” in reference
legend has it that this cheese was this pasta filata cheese is produced in to the very strong odor of this cheese.
created by a visiting monk, while the two varieties: it is Dolce when made it is a singularly hard cheese and the
milk is linked to a race of dairy cattle, using calf liquid rennet, and Piccante rind is washed weekly with salty tepid
named agerolese, that was bred by the when produced using the paste rennet water. locally, it’s called Spretz Tzaorì,
House of Bourbon in the 18th century. from young goats. meaning “savory cheese.”
it is aged in natural caves, or tufa, that tasting notes this strong-smelling
are formed near mineral springs. tasting notes Dolce is elastic, smooth, cheese has an orange sticky rind and
and velvety, and has a sweet, lightly an elastic, white interior that melts in
tasting notes the aromatic herbs of salty, milky, and buttery flavor. the mouth. the flavor is a balance of
the lattari mountain pastures, such as Piccante is dense and compact, grainy, sweet, sour, and bitter tastes with
thyme, oregano, and marjoram, give the pungent, and salty with nutmeg hints. a hint of citrus fruit on the finish.
milk, and cheese, a delicious flavor. How to enjoy locals eat it with boiled
How to enjoy try it with nuts and pears. potatoes, olive oil, salt, vinegar, and
How to enjoy simply serve it with olive Use the Dolce variety in mild dishes; chopped chives. good with teroldego
oil and fresh aromatic herbs, such as Piccante in stronger flavored ones. Rotaliano Rosso, or Pinot noir.
wild fennel, parsley, and basil. Pair serve with Freisa d’asti, or lambrusco
with a robust red or a sweet Marsala. secco di sorbara (sparkling red wine).

132 ITALY Campania ITALY Emilia-Romagna ITALY Fassa Valley, Trentino-Alto Adige
Age 1–2 months, or 2 years in caves Age 1–12 months Age 5–10 months
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–6lb 6oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4–220lb Weight and Shape 19lb 13oz (9kg), wheel
(1.5–3kg), pear or sausage-shaped (1–100kg), flask, salamino, pancetta, pear, Size D. 14–171⁄2in (35–45cm), H. 4–10in
Size Various melon, mandarino (10–25cm)
Milk Cow Size Various Milk Cow
Classification Hard Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Caseificio Sociale Predazzo e
Producer Various Moena, Predazzo, Trento

Quartirolo Lombardo Ragusano PDO Raschera PDO i t a ly
PDO
Ragusano is a pasta filata cheese a classic mountain cheese that is
traditionally this cheese was made and the symbol of the sicilian dairy quoted in the Summa lacticiniorun
using milk from cattle that had grazed industry. the unusual dumbbell by Pantaleone da Confienza in 1477,
the sweet, aromatic hay harvested at shape was created to make it easy to where he describes how strips of lamb’s
the beginning of fall—the fourth transport by mule from the mountains stomach are soaked in water to remove
(quartirola) and final cut before winter. to the villages, and gave it the name the natural rennet.
today it is produced all year round. Quattrofacce (“four faces”). this is not tasting notes it has a thin, leathery,
a compliment, as a person with four brown rind dusted with white and an
tasting notes ivory-white outside and faces is considered unreliable! elastic, pale white, velvety interior with
inside, with a friable, grainy texture. tasting notes the yellow paste has a few irregular eyes or holes. Mild and
Both sour and a little sweet, it is very small eyes and a taste that is sweet- sweet-sour taste with marked vegetal
refreshing, having an aroma of yogurt sour-salty, pungent, and astringent, notes like grass, hay, and cauliflower.
and a suggestion of wild herbs. with vegetal and animal hints. How to enjoy Very good for fondues and
How to enjoy Marinate in olive oil and a great vol-au-vent filling. it tastes
How to enjoy Used in the specialty dish garlic, then dress with white vinegar delicious alongside a glass of nebiolo
of Quartirolo pie, or serve with celery and oregano. Match with grecanico. d’alba, or sciachetrà.
and parsley. try with Valbissera di san
Colombano, or Malvasia delle lipari.

ITALY Lombardia ITALY Sicilia ITALY Piemonte 133
Age 5–10 days Age 3–12 months Age 1–3 months
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 22–35lb (10–16kg), Weight and Shape 11lb–17lb 10oz
(1.5–3.5kg), flat square dumbbell (5–8kg), square with rounded edges
Size L. 7–81⁄2in (18–22cm), W. 11⁄2in–3in Size L. 17–211⁄2in (43–55cm), W. 6–7in Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in
(4–8cm), H. 11⁄2in–3in (4–8cm) (15–18cm), H. 6–7in (15–18cm) (6–9cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

i t a ly

134

ROSA CAMUNA the famous Rosa
Camuna imprint is derived from an ancient
drawing of a rose found in rock carvings in
Capo di Ponte, lombardy. this version is
found on the cheese Rosa Camuna, a petal-
shaped version of Casolet (see p115).

Ricotta Affumicata Ricotta di Pecora Robiola d’Alba

Ricotta is typically made from whey Ricotta means “cooked twice.” First, the it is believed that this fresh cheese
left over from making large, hard milk is heated for cheesemaking; then took its name from Robbio lomellina,
cheeses. Once drained, the tiny white the whey is heated to make the solids an area where it has been made for
lumps of curd are lightly pressed and left in the whey float to the surface, centuries, or possibly from rubeola
dry-salted, then smoked over green where they are skimmed off into rush (“red”), the color of the bacteria that is
conifer-wood fires for about a week; baskets or plastic molds. used to develop on the rind.
when they are ready to eat. Cheese
aged for a month can be grated. tasting nOtes the fragile, tiny white tasting nOtes Rubiola d’alba is smooth, i t a ly
tasting nOtes the relatively high lumps are milky with an acidic touch, mild, and delicate, with a taste that is
moisture content turns the outside and it has aromatic lemony notes due more sweet than sour. it has a creamy
a warm nut-brown. the texture is soft, to the addition of a little sour milk and buttery aroma, with vegetal and
very fine, and crumbly with a light, before the whey is heated. floral hints.
fresh, delicate taste and hints of pine.
HOw tO enjOy at its best with blueberry HOw tO enjOy Use in the national dish HOw tO enjOy a traditional italian dish
jam, acacia honey, and rye bread. Pair Tortelloni di ricotta ed erbette and in is an omelet made with Robiola d’alba.
it with crisp, light white wines. the dessert Cannoli siciliani. Pair with the cheese is best served with a dry
a fresh, dry white gavi di gavi or a red wine such as alabarda Barbera
sparkling spumante Classico italiano. d’alba, or Dolcetto d’alba.

ITALY Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto ITALY All over ITALY Piemonte 135
Age 15–30 days Age 1–2 days Age 6–7 days
Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz
(200–500g), money bag (0.5–3kg), basket (300–500g, round
Size Various Size Various Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm), H. 11⁄2–2in
Milk Cow Milk Ewe (3–4cm)
Classification Flavor-added Classification Fresh Milk Cow, ewe, or goat
Producer Various Producer Various Classification Fresh
Producer Various

Robiola di Robiola della Salva Cremasco (PDO
Roccaverano PDO Valsassina transitory list)

thought to have been introduced by like other Robiola cheese, the name the name salva comes from salvare,
the Celts, who settled in liguria comes from the latin ruber, meaning “to save,” and refers to the fact that the
around 1000ce, and named after the “red”, because of the reddish bacteria cheese was made in May from excess
village of Roccaverano, this is italy’s that can develop on the rind. in the milk when the yield from the cows was
only historic goat’s milk cheese. the past it was made with goat’s milk, but too great, creating another vital source
Roccaverano goat is now rare, replaced now it is produced using cow’s milk. of income.
by high-yielding breeds.
i t a ly tasting notes the rind is brown-red and tasting notes it has a gray, green, or
tasting notes the rind is white to pale dusted with gray-blue molds, while the reddish washed rind but is as white
brown with a fine gray mold, while the paste is white or yellow with a supple, inside. the texture is friable and
paste is creamy and smooth, having a velvety texture. it is a little grainy and grainy, and the taste equally sweet and
balance of sweet-sour-salt with a hint tastes quite sweet, with delicate sour. it has a milky-yogurt aroma with
of lanolin from the ewe’s milk. mushroom and milky notes. citrus fruit notes.

How to enjoy eat as it is, or dress with How to enjoy Use to fill potatoes or in How to enjoy eat in risotto with porcini.
olive oil and aromatic herbs. Match it an omelet with spicy local sausage. Pair team it with Cabernet sauvignon la
with generous reds, such as Barbaresco. it with inferno, or sassella negra. stoppa or a sweet Malvasia di Candia.

136 ITALY Piemonte ITALY Cremeno, Lombardia ITALY Trescore Cremasco, Lombardia
Age 7–10 days Age 20–30 days Age 2 months, better after 1 year
Weight and Shape 9–14oz (250–400g), Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 61⁄2–9lb 9oz (3–4kg),
round (400–500g); square square
Size D. 4–51⁄2in (10–14cm), H. 11⁄2–2in Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size L. 61⁄2–71⁄2in (17–19cm) W. 61⁄2–71⁄2in
(4–5cm) H. 11⁄2in (4cm) (17–19cm) H. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm)
Milk Goat mixed with cow, and/or ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Invernizzi Daniele, Cremeno, Lecco Producer Caseificio San Carlo, Coccaglio,
Brescia Az. Agr. Eredi Carioni, Trescore
Cremasco, Cremona

Scamorza Sora Spressa delle
Giudicarie PDO
also called Mozzarella Passita Known as the “witch’s cheese,” as it
(withered mozzarella), Scamorza is a is said to have been first made by a this ancient, mountain cheese was
pasta filata that is made all year round “witch cheesemaker,” However, the traditionally made with milk that was
in southern italy. it is shaped by hand name means “shoe” in local dialect, as skimmed several times, as the farmers
into two balls, one slightly smaller than its flattened shape, bearing the imprint could sell butter for a higher price than
the other. Scamorza affumicata is a of the cloth in which it is pressed, cheese. today it is made with partially
version smoked over wood or straw. resembles the sole of a shoe. skimmed milk.

taSting noteS it is white to straw yellow taSting noteS Soft, dense, and smooth taSting noteS it has a straw-yellow or i t a ly
outside, and the paste has an elastic with some eyes, it has a subtle yet brown rind and a crunchy texture when
texture, sweet taste, and milky aroma. complex taste of the milk used to make low in fat, being yellower, sweeter, and
Scamorza affumicata is brown on the it, with floral, fruity, or citrus notes. it more buttery when higher in fat. the
outside, brown-yellow inside, and the is especially good in summer. strong aroma comes from the pastures
smoky aroma enhances the sweet taste. How to enjoy Delicious rolled up in on which the cows graze.
How to enjoy eat fresh or melted. team slices of ham or used in fondues and How to enjoy enjoy this on its own, or
with Pomino Rosso Frescobaldi, or sauces. Pair with any dry, white, local with barley soup. team it with fruity
Spumante Classico italiano. Cortese wine. red wines.

ITALY Campania ITALY Piemonte ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige 137
Age 2–10 days Age 1–3 months Age 4–12 months
Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb (200–500g), Weight and Shape 4–41⁄2in (1.8–2kg), Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb
balls or large pears flat round (8–10kg), wheel
Size H. 3–5in (8–12cm) Size L. 6–8in (15–20cm), W. 6–8in Size D. 12–14in (30–35cm), H. 4–41⁄2in
Milk Cow (15–20cm), H. 11⁄2–2in (4–5cm) (10–11cm)
Classification Semi-soft (pasta Filata) Milk Ewe, cow, or goat Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various

Taleggio PDo a closer look

Mention of Taleggio dates back to the 10th and 11th centuries, Taleggio are aged by the producer or
where there is evidence of it being traded. However, the name an affineur in the local caves or
has only been used since the 20th century and refers to the Val specially controlled rooms where the
Taleggio in the province of Bergano—an area also famous for its temperature, humidity, and native
great cheeses such as Grana Padano (see p119) and Gorgonzola microflora play a vital role.
(see pp110–111)—where it is made.
The enzymes produced from the microflora
The surface of every cheese is on the crust break down the curd by working
imprinted with the distinctive from the outside, a process known as
four-leafed brand of the Consorzio “mold-ripening.”
Tutela Taleggio. The imprint is
visible even if the cheese is sold in
portions. It’s a guarantee of quality
and origin, and even the paper that
wraps the cheese when it is sold
must be of a certain type and carry
the Taleggio brand.

The dramatic landscape of the Alpine TasTing noTes The molds The interior is soft, almost
valley of Val Taleggio in Italy’s northern Bergamo and yeasts of the rind speed up the liquid, under the rind.
province in Lombardia. breakdown of the curd, ripening it from
the outside toward the center. It exudes
I T A Ly Taleggio was created to preserve the a gentle but insistent herbaceous
fragrance of fermenting fruit, hay, and
local milk, and the natural caves of mountain flowers like eating rich cream
of broccoli soup. It’s not necessary to
Valsassina, in Lecco, Lombardia, remove the crust before eating or
cooking with it, but it is a little gritty, so
provide the perfect ripening room it is best to gently scrape it.

Their deep crevices or fissures Sadly, Taleggio is often sold and eaten
underripe, or before it comes to room
providing natural air-conditioning temperature, when it is dull, rubbery,
and grainy and the true character has
and soft breezes to spread the molds either been killed off with excessive
refrigeration or remains hidden.
that grow in the rind. With increasing
How To enjoy An excellent table
awareness and popularity, Taleggio is cheese, it can be eaten as is or used in
various recipes because it melts so
now made from both pasteurized and readily. Typically served at the end of
the meal with apples, pears, or figs, or
raw milk in many small dairies as in pastas, risottos, soups, omelets, and
salads as well as some types of pizza
well as larger factories where the and crêpes. Best with a local wine from
Franciacorta, like Terre di Franciacorta
138 recipe has been adapted to modern DOC, a sturdy red from Cabernet,
technology while still remaining true Barbera, and Nebbiolo grapes, or the
outstanding bottle-fermented sparkling
to the traditional methods essential to wines that qualify as Franciacorta
DOCG, most notable is Ca’ del Bosco.
retain its unique character.

The best, however, are undoubtedly

those made with raw milk from the

summer alpine pastures and

matured in the caves.

ITALY Lombardia, Piedmont, and Veneto
Age 25–40 days
Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2lb (1.7–2kg),
square
Size D. 16in (40cm) and 28in (70cm),
H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

Draining The cheese is drained
on special tables called spersori, and
then placed in molds with rounded
edges. The consortium brand along
with the maker’s number pressed
into the soft cheese.

SaLTing Each cheese is rubbed The imprinT The four-leaf brand from The orangy-pink color of the
in dry salt or soaked in brine for the Consorzio becomes more distinct as the rind becomes more
8–12 hours. The cheeses are put pronounced with age.
in wooden boxes each holding cheese ages and the brand is outlined by the
eight cheeses.
fine gray and white molds that dust the rind.

i T a ly

139

Half square

I T a ly

140

SORA The streaks and splashes of color
resemble a piece of modern Italian art, but
instead are the work of the wild yeasts,
bacteria, and molds that proliferate in the
raw milk, mountain pastures, and special
rooms where Sora is ripened. (See p137).

Strachìtunt Toma Piemontese Tome and Tomini
PDO
Made using the milk from Bruna there are 20–30 different tome and
alpina cows since the late 1800s, Made since the Roman empire, toma tomini (small cheeses each with their
Strachìtunt has recently been revived could be the italian version of the own unique character). one of the
by a group of producers who formed French cheese tomme, which is made best-known is tomino di Melle, made
a small consortium. they now produce in the nearby Savoy region. it is a with whole milk and invented in 1889
around 50 cheeses a week. gourmet, versatile cheese. by a cheesemaker and her nephew.
taSting noteS this supple, springy
taSting noteS Unlike most italian blues, taSting noteS toma Piemontese has cheese is mild with a sweet acidity. i t a ly
it has a dense, compact texture, very a hundred tastes, depending on its it has a creamy taste and sometimes
fine, erratic blueing and a dry, wrinkled weight, ripening time, and art of the vegetal, nutty, or woody hints.
crusty rind. the taste is sweet with cheesemaking! it is sweet and melts How to enjoy typically used to make
a hint of spiced mushrooms. easily, with vegetal and woody notes. Bagnet: a tomato sauce with parsley,
garlic, and minced anchovies. it is a
How to enjoy For an authentic flavor, How to enjoy Use grated in Bruss or perfect match for lively reds such as
try this with gnocchi and polenta. Pastasciutta, or melted in many Rocca giovino Dolcetto d’alba, or the
Match it with an austere red, such as recipes. team it with a dry Magnus striking Diano d’alba Superiore.
the velvety Valtellina Superiore, or a langhe Chardonnay, or a light and dry
sweet, late-harvest white wine. sparkling red Barbera del Monferrato.

ITALY Lombardia ITALY Piemonte ITALY Arona, Piemonte 141
Age 3–5 months Age 1–4 months Age 1–3 days, sometimes 10 days
Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4–5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 13⁄4–1lb 2oz
Size D. 91⁄2–11in (24–28cm), H. 6–7in (2–8kg), wheel (50–500g), mainly small cylinder
(15–18cm) Size D. 6–14in (15–35cm), H. 21⁄2–5in Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm)
Milk Cow (6–12cm) Milk Cow, or mixed
Classification Blue Milk Cow Classification Soft white
Producer Arrigoni Valtaleggio Classification Semi-soft Producer Luigi Guffanti, 1876, Arona,
Producer Various Novara

More Cheeses
of Italy

Trentingrana PDO Vezzena the following cheeses are rare
—either because they are only
i t a ly in 1926, a dairyman from trentino During the austro–Hungarian empire, available seasonally or because
married a dairywomen from Mirandola, Vezzena was the preferred cheese of the they are produced in very
home of Parmigiano Reggiano, who House of Habsburg, and Franz joseph i remote areas. as a result,
brought to the non Valley the art of of austria wanted it on his table at all it has proved impossible to
making grana cheese. they created times. today, as then, the milk used photograph them, but as they
trentingrana; today the production and comes from cows grazing around 1mi are important and interesting
sales of this cheese are controlled by (1500m) above sea level. examples of italian cheese, we
the trentingrana Cheese Consortium. taSting noteS a brown or brown-yellow are including them.
taSting noteS Under a thick yellow rind rind protects the straw-yellow, hard So, read, savor, and seek out.
is a hard, brittle interior with a sweet, inside, with its small holes. Sweet and
fruity taste and hints of cooked butter pleasant-tasting, it has a strong aroma, Agrì di Valtorta
and spiced meat broth. mainly of green and fermented grass
How to enjoy grate over salads and with a hint of toasted seeds. this cheese is rarely found outside the
pasta or vegetables. team it with a How to enjoy Serve aged Vezzena on its small valley where it has been made
sparkling white Ferrari Riserva or a own or with fruit. try it with a white for centuries. Slightly soured whey is
sweet Vin Santo di nosiola. nosiola Spagnolli or Refrontolo Passito. used to curdle the milk, then after
coagulation the curds are put into
142 ITALY Emilia-Romagna ITALY Lavarone, Trentino-Alto Adige small ricotta molds and left to stand
Age 1–2 years Age 4–12 months before being salted by hand.
Weight and Shape 77lb (35kg), drum Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb taSting noteS Soft in texture, it has a
Size D. 14–15in (35–38cm), H. 8–81⁄2in (8–12kg), round milky aroma that recalls the aromatic
(20–22cm) Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 31⁄2–5in herbs and mountain grasses on which
Milk Cow (9–12cm) the cattle have fed. it is creamy with a
Classification Hard Milk Cow slightly sour, savory taste.
Producer Various Classification Hard How to enjoy eat on its own with
Producer Caseificio degli Altipiani del vegetables or spread on fresh bread.
Vezzena di Lavarone good with aromatic Bianco Valcalepio.

ITALY Valtoria, Lombardia
Age From 3 days
Weight and shape 13⁄4–31⁄2oz (50–100g),
squat cone
Size D. 11⁄2–2in (3–4cm), H. 3–4in (8–10cm)
Milk Cow, goat
Classification Fresh
Producer Latteria Sociale, Monaci
Sebastiano

Bela Badia Bernardo Cacioricotta

this soft cheese, with a smooth, dry a classic, fresh, summer cheese made affectionately known in southern italy
crust, is a recent addition to the ranks only with milk from cows grazing on as the “hockey puck” for its flat and
of italian cheeses. it takes its name high alpine pastures. it is virtually round shape, this cheese comes from a
from the Badia valley in which it was rindless and is a reddish-yellow in color, strong tradition of italian farmhouse
created and is appreciated for its high due to a little saffron powder being types. it is half ricotta and half a fresh
lactic bacteria content. added to the curds during production. cheese, made from a combination of
it can be matured, during which time it ewe’s and goat’s milk.
tasting notes the light, straw-colored will develop a brownish-yellow rind
paste of Bela Badia becomes intense and an intense aromatic flavor. tasting notes it has a very mild aroma
with time and has a fresh, creamy, and of sweet milk when fresh, and is
sweet taste. as the cheese is chewed, its tasting notes the added saffron gives a citrusy, tangy, and pungent when aged.
flavor is enhanced by generous milky floral aroma and a sweet, slightly bitter
and grass hints. taste to this delicate cheese. How to enjoy Usually used fresh in
Mediterranean salads, or grated over
How to enjoy eat this cheese grilled How to enjoy eaten fresh with crusty pasta when aged. Pair it with Messapia
and accompany it with a glass of bread, it pairs well with a red or a of leone de Castris, or Marsala Vergine
Riesling Renano or sparkling Brut white Valcalepio wine. di terre arse.
Hausmannhof Riserva.
ITALY Lombardy ITALY Puglia and Basilicata
ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige Age 10–15 days Age From 2–3 weeks, until 2–3 months
Age 2 months Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4oz Weight and Shape 14oz–2lb 1⁄4oz (400g–1kg);
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg); flat wheel (500g–1kg); flat wheel small cylindrical form, or truncated cone
Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3–4in (8–10cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 51⁄2–91⁄2in (13–24cm), H. 11⁄2–3in
Milk Cow Milk Cow and goat (4–7cm)
Classification Fresh or semi-soft Classification Fresh Milk Goat and ewe
Producer Various Producer Various Classification Fresh, hard when ripened
Producer Various

Canestrato di Vacca or Lagundo Pecorino di Filiano i t a ly
di Pecora PDO
this cheese ranges from semi-soft to
named after the rush basket (canestro) firm in consistency, depending on the an ancient cheese that is made in the
in which it is made, this cheese is ripening time. Made from cow’s milk, it Basilicata region using milk from the
coagulated or curdled with kid rennet. develops a marked brown rind from native ewes, gentile di puglia. the
the curd is still manipulated by hand being washed. lagundo is the village in cheeses are ripened in local caves.
in the traditional way that dates back which it first originated, but is also
to the days of the Roman empire. known as Bauernkäse, which is tasting notes it has a golden-yellow or, 143
german for farmer’s cheese. when treated with oil and vinegar,
tasting notes Cow’s milk Canestrato is tasting notes with irregular eyes brown-yellow rind imprinted with the
sweet, becoming salty and nutty when thoughout the white or straw-colored pattern of the basket molds. the firm,
mature, while the Pecora (ewe’s milk) paste, it is full flavored with a sweet, crunchy paste is light yellow with very
is more aromatic and has a nutty butter aroma and a tang in the taste. small eyes. sweet and buttery when
aroma at around six months. How to enjoy eat with rye bread or melt young, it becomes pungent, salty, and
onto potatoes. try with Pinot Bianco strongly aromatic when mature.
How to enjoy Use in salads, grated over (wiessburgunder) or Moscato giallo
pasta, in béchamel sauce, or stuffed (goldenmuskateller). How to enjoy Used in the dish Pecorino
vegetables. it goes well with greco di maritato, or grated over boiled broad
tufo, or light and fruity red wines. beans. Pair with local red wines.

ITALY Puglia and Sicily ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Basilicata
Age 2–10 months Age 2 months, better after 6 months Age 6 months or more
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg), brick Weight and Shape 51⁄2–11lb (2.5–5kg),
(1.5–8kg), cylinder Size Various drum
Size D. 8–14in (20–35cm), H. 21⁄2–4in (6–10cm) Milk Cow Size D. 6–10in (15–25cm), H. 3–7in (8–18cm)
Milk Cow or ewe Classification Semi-soft or hard Milk Ewe
Classification Hard Producer Small farmers Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Various

Pecorino Laticauda Pusteria Ricotta di Bufala
Campana (PDO
this hard cheese is named after the its italian name is Pusteria, but since transitory list)
laticauda breed of sheep that was it is produced in a bilingual area, it
introduced from africa in the 18th also has german names of Pustertaler, in some italian regions, buffalo are
century, then crossed with the local Bergkäse, or Hocpustertaler. it is used to produce milk instead of cows,
Pagliarola race. produced in the Puster Valley, mainly because they adapted better to the
tasting notes the thin, waxy rind is from Pustertaler sprinzen cattle. Until humid climate and poor grazing. this
yellow-orange over an ivory white, 1800 it was made only in summer. cheese uses whey left over from making
grainy, and friable paste. With a sweet tasting notes Under the yellow-orange Mozzarella di Bufala Campana.
and salty taste, it has an aroma of cut rind is a white paste with irregular
grass, wild flowers, and citrus fruit. eyes and an elastic texture. the taste is tasting notes Refreshing with a sweet,
HoW to enjoy serve fresh as a table sweet, becoming bitter and pungent. it slightly acidic flavor and a delicate
cheese, or use to stuff and fill has mild vegetal and floral aromas. grainy texture.
artichokes and in delicious local cheese
pies. try with Vino Bianco avignonesi HoW to enjoy it is used in spätzle HoW to enjoy Use in many italian
and Vino nobile di Montepulciano. noodles, grilled with butter. try serving recipes. try it with white Falanghina
with Muller thurgau. spumante, or red Palummo Passito.

ITALY Faicchio, Campania ITALY Bolzano, Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lazio
Age 3–6 months Age 60–70 days Age 1–2 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), drum Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg), wheel Weight and Shape; 1lb 2oz–51⁄2lb
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (500g–2.5kg), basket mold
Milk Ewe Milk Cow Size Various
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Milk Buffalo
Producer Azienda Torre Vecchia, Faicchio, Producer Milkon Alto Adige, Bolzano Classification Fresh
Benevento Producer Various

i t a ly Ricotta Romana PDO Silter Squacquarone di
Romagna
in 2bce, Cato the elder made reference this Celtic-named cheese dates back to
to this delicate ewe’s-milk whey cheese, the 17th century. silter comes in two in 1ce, gaius Petronius arbiter, the
and the recipe was recorded by types: those made in the high mountain author of Satyricon, called this cheese
Columella in 1ce and galen of pasture, and those made in the valley. Caseum mollem. in the local dialect the
Pergamum in 2ce. today, it has been name means “without consistence,”
granted the european Union’s tasting notes Under a brownish-yellow because it is mousselike and easily
Protected Designation of origin. rind is a straw-yellow paste that has a melts in the mouth.
friable, crumbly texture when aged.
tasting notes this refreshing cheese the mountain cheese has more vegetal tasting notes a shining white cheese, it
144 has a smooth, fine, grainy texture, with and floral aromas, while the valley has a very soft, high-moisture texture,
cheese has hints of hay and dry fruits. a creamy, buttery aroma, and a balance
a taste more sweet than sour and a of sweet and sour with citrus hints.
citrus aroma. the flavor changes HoW to enjoy it is a delicious ingredient
depending on the pastures on which in Cannelloni alla zucca (pasta rolls HoW to enjoy traditionally it is used to
the sheep graze. filled with pumpkin and silter). Pair it stuff pasta, along with beef marrow, but
with sparkling white Franciacorta try it simply in a fresh salad. Pair it
HoW to enjoy Ricotta Romana is a major Millesimato, or sagrantino Passito. with a dry white albana di Romagna,
ingredient in the dessert “Fingers of or a red such as sangiovese superiore.
apostle.” Pair with Frascati superiore. ITALY High Camonica and Sebino Valley,
Lombardia ITALY Bologna, Emilia–Romagna
ITALY Lazio Age 4–12 months Age 1–4 days
Age 1 day Weight and Shape 22–44lb (10–20kg), wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg)
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb Size D. 14–151⁄2in (35–40cm), H. 4–6in Size Various
(500g–2kg), truncated cone (10–15cm) Milk Cow
Size Various Milk Cow Classification Fresh
Milk Ewe Classification Hard Producer Caseificio Pascoli, Savignano sul
Classification Fresh Producer Romelli Giacomo, Pedena-Breno Rubiconde
Producer Various

Stelvio PDO Stracciata Toscanello

this washed-rind cheese takes its name this artisan cheese is produced by toscanello belongs to the Caciotta
from the highest alps pass and has cutting or tearing the curd, which is group of cheeses and is also known as
been traded in the tirol since Medieval then stretched into ribbons that are Caciotta di Pecora. toscanello means
times. Since it is made in a bilingual folded and shaped. the result is a “little tuscany,” which is where this
area, Stelvio is also known as Stilfser. sweet, fresh, fatty paste which is sold ancient cheese originated, before its
as it is or used to fill Burrata cheese. production migrated to Sardegna.
taSting noteS it has a yellow-orange to
orange-brown rind and straw-yellow taSting noteS a shining, white, creamy taSting noteS when young, toscanello
paste with irregular holes, and a cheese, Stracciata is mild and sweet has a mild sweet and sour taste and
compact, supple, and springy texture. with fresh lactic notes. it easily melts supple texture with milky, vegetal
its sweet–sour flavor is sometimes in the mouth, leaving a taste like warm notes. when aged, it has a marked
pleasantly bitter, with aromatic hints melted butter. sweet and salty taste, a friable texture
of hay and steamed vegetables. and floral and fruity notes.
How to enjoy Serve this refreshing
How to enjoy often melted on polenta or summer cheese as a main dish with How to enjoy Sardinians serve it with
used in barley or lentil soups. Pair with fresh salad and tomatoes, and a glass Mallureddu, or use it in risotto. Pair
Merlot Kretzer, or lagrein Dunkel. of locorotondo Spumante, or aleatico with Sovana Rosso, or Sauvignon
di Puglia liquoroso. Castello della Sala.
ITALY Stelvio National Park, Lombardia
Age 2–4 months ITALY Puglia ITALY Sardegna
Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Age 1–2 days Age 1–6 months
(8–10kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 3–51⁄2in (1.5–2.5kg);
Size D. 141⁄2–15in (36–38cm), H. 3–4in (200–500g), long cylinder or ball round
(8–10cm) Size Various Size D. 7–8in (18–20cm), H. 3–4in (8–10cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft
Producer Milkon Alto Adige, Bolzano Producer Various Producer Various

Valle D’Aosta Valtellina Casera PDO Vastedda della Valle i t a ly
Fromadzo PDO del Belice (PDO
this cheese is made in Valtellina, an transitory list)
well known in the 15th century, this isolated valley in the alps, using milk
hard cheese is made using morning and from the Bruna alpina cows known for Unlike other italian pasta filata
evening milk, then left to stand before their excellent, sweet-flavored milk. cheeses, this is made with ewe’s milk,
the cream is skimmed off. Some cheeses taSting noteS the thin, yellow rind in particular from the local Belice
contain up to 10 percent goat’s milk. covers a dense but creamy interior, with breed. Vastedda is derived from vasta,
small, irregular eyes. its sweet-and- the base of the cheese-shaping dish.
taSting noteS often flavored with sour-flavor becomes salty when aged. taSting noteS the fine white rind covers 145
juniper, cumin, or wild fennel, it is the aromatic flavor has honey and floral a shiny, straw-yellow, very moist, soft
supple with tiny holes and has a notes, sometimes with a bitter finish. paste. the flavor is sour and sweet and
slightly sweet taste that becomes How to enjoy it is the basic ingredient becomes aromatic after a few days with
stronger and more aromatic when aged. of Pizzoccheri, and is used to fill Sciatt, hints of herbs and flowers.
stuffed buckwheat pancakes. Best How to enjoy eat as an appetizer with a
How to enjoy grate onto toast or into teamed with a red Sassella negri. glass of Regaleali tasca d’almerita.
soups, such as spinach or cabbages. Pair
it with a dry red wine such as enfer
d’arvier, or Vallée d’aosta Donnas.

ITALY Valle D’Aosta ITALY Lombardia ITALY Sicilia
Age 2–10 months Age 2–4 months Age 2–3 days
Weight and Shape 21⁄4–151⁄2in (1–7kg), Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–261⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 7oz
wheel (7–12kg), wheel (500–700g), cylinder
Size D. 6–12in (15–30cm), H. 2–8in Size D. 12–171⁄2in (30–45cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 6–61⁄2in (15–17cm), H. 1–11⁄2in
(5–20cm) (8–10cm) (3–4cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Fresh
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

bay of biscay

La Peral

aSturiaS

Cebreiro Afuega’l Pitu★, Cantabria Pasiego de
Ahumado de Pría, Cantabria★, las Garmillas
galiCia Cabrales ★, Liébana★,
Arúza-Ulloa ★, Casín ★,
San Simón da Costa, Gamonedo ★, Picón Bejes Tresviso ★ paÍS
Tetilla ★ vaSCo
Taramundi
Valdeón ★ navarra
Idiazábal ★,
n Castellano, Roncal ★

Ibérico, la rioja
Pata de Mulo,
Zamorano ★ Camerano ★

viana do vila CaStilla-leÓn
CaStelo Beato de Tábara

braga real Cañarejal
Cabra Transmontano ★

porto braganÇa Zamorano ★ aragÓn
Cabra Transmontano ★ Tronchón

aveiro Serra da Estrela ★
viSeu guarda

portugal Monte Enebro Spain

Coimbra madrid

leiria CaStelo
branCo
Castelo Branco ★ Los Montes de Toledo

SantarÉm CaStilla-la manCha
Ibérico
portalegre
liSboa Nisa ★

Évora extremadura
Évora ★ Ibores ★,
Tortas Extremeñas

SetÚbal Cabra Rufino
Azeitão ★
Azores Murcia al Vino★
beja murCia
Serpa ★ Payoyo

andaluCÍa

faro

golfo De
cÁDiz

atlantic ocean

Madeira Islas Canarias costa De la luz costa Del sol

gibraltar MeDiteRRanean sea

100 miles SPAIN ANd
100 km PORTUGAL

AnDOrrA SPAIN During the 9th century, when many rural folk and
their livestock took refuge with the monasteries, monks
Tou del Til•lers became the principal producers of cheese. When livestock
populations grew, the monasteries needed more pastures,
Benasque Benabarre Bauma Carrat which saw the beginning of transhumance, or the migration
L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya★ of shepherds. This movement of animals and shepherds
helped spread the science of cheesemaking across the
CATALuÑA country. Many of the cheese shapes or patterns originated
Garrotxa, from whatever local materials were available: ceramic bowls
Tupi of the Levante, sycamore leaves, carved wood, or even grass
belts. During the last forty years, transhumance almost
mediterranean sea disappeared, but in the late 1900s, cheese experienced a
well-deserved resurgence, although artisan cheesemaking
ILLes Mahón was almost entirely replaced by large cooperatives.
BALeArs PORTUGAL With the Atlantic Ocean to the west and high
Peña Blanca de Corrales mountains to the east, Portugal received protection from
the invasion of Goths, Vandals, and Moors. That protection
Golfo de valencia and the harsh climate led to cheese playing a very minor
role in Portuguese cuisine. Those that were made, however,
were exceptional, and most used (and still do) the thistle or
Cardoon to curdle the rich milk of the hardy sheep.

With the boom of the economy and the tourist industry
since the 1960s, Portugal has seen a revival of artisan
cheeses and cheesemaking, as well as the introduction of
bigger manufacturing plants. They can now boast 10 cheeses
that qualify for PDO and PGI status.

Key

★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses

Produced only here
Produced throughout the region

PAÍs
VALenCIAnO

Tronchón

IsLAs CAnArIAs MADeIrA AzOres

LAnzArOTe COrVO
FLOres
Palmero★ TenerIFe POrTO sAnTO GrACIOsA
Ilha Graciosa
LA PALMA Flor de Guîa Majorero ★ São Jorge ★ TerCeIrA

GOMerA FuerTeVenTurA MADeIrA FAIAL sÃO JOrGe
Herreño GrAn CAnArIA
HIerrO DeserTA GrAnDe

MOrOCCO atlantic ocean atlantic ocean sÃO MIGueL
sAnTA MArIA
atlantic ocean BuGIO

spain

SPAin And PorTugAl Afuega’l Pitu DOP Ahumado de Pría L’Alt Urgell y La
Cerdanya DOP
A small, wrinkled cheese with a sticky A lightly smoked, creamy northern
exterior shaped into a cone or like a cheese with an orange rind, this was This tender and approachable cheese
pumpkin, Afuega’l Pitu is molded by originally made in smoky shepherd’s hails from the high Catalan Pyrenees,
hand in a cloth. The most striking huts in high summer pastureland that and is the initiative of a cooperative
version has its curd seasoned by hot is also famed for its sweet butter. dairy that is famous for its Cadí butter.
pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika) TASTing noTeS Matured for two months washed in brine, the cheese develops a
and is matured for two months. before being gently smoked over beech thin leathery orange-red rind and
TASTing noTeS Afuega’l Pitu, meaning and oak, allowing the fragrance of small holes in the pale interior.
“stick in the throat”, after its tart, added ewe cream to complement the
creamy texture, is made from acidified heady aromas of cow’s milk produced TASTing noTeS The aroma is reminiscent
white curd. The dusty red pimentón on mountain pastures. of grassy meadows, the paste is springy,
variety has a seriously fiery finish. How To enjoy ideal with an apéritif, it is and the initial impression is mild and
How To enjoy Fresh white Afuega’l Pitu delicious with the fruity white wines of buttery, but with unexpected depth.
has a thick, yogurty consistency and is galicia, or try it dipped in cinnamon,
excellent with jam or honey; the hot cumin, and breadcrumbs, then fried How To enjoy Melts well in gratins and
variety needs a dry sherry. and served with muscatel grape jelly. sauces for vegetable and fish dishes,
and pairs extremely well with a chilled
dry cava or fruity or sweet white wines.

148 SPAIN Asturias SPAIN Asturias SPAIN La Seu d’Urgell, Cataluña
Age Fresh 7 days; with pimentón 2 months Age 2–6 months Age 6–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), cylinder Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2–21⁄2kg),
(200–600g), cone or pumpkin Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 4in (10cm) round
Size D. 3–5½in (8–14cm), H. 3–5in Milk Cow, with ewe cream Size D. 71⁄2–8in (191⁄2–20cm)
(8–12cm) Classification Flavor-added Milk Cow
Milk Cow Producer Various Classification Semi-soft
Classification Flavor-added Producer La Cooperativa del Cadi
Producer Various