World Cheese Book by DK (z-lib.org)

Swaledale Goat Ticklemore Goat Tickton

David and Mandy Reed set up their Originally conceived by Robin Congdon Tom and Tricia wallis started EngLanD
cheesemaking company in 1987, using of Ticklemore Cheeses, this is now experimenting with goat’s milk on their
an old recipe handed down through made by award-winning cheesemaker, farm after discovering their
generations of Swaledale farmers—and Debbie Mumford, a former colleague, granddaughter was lactose intolerant.
possibly back to the eleventh century, on the beautiful thousand-year-old now they make a range of cheeses in
when it was introduced by Cistercian Sharpham Estate farm, alongside the small batches, including Tickton.
monks from normandy. estate’s cow’s milk cheeses. TaSTing nOTES Fresh, milky, mushroomy
TaSTing nOTES The firm white paste has TaSTing nOTES The stark white paste is and only mildly goaty with a smooth,
a sweet taste with traces of the salty fine, crumbly, and delicate, and dotted slightly grainy texture that melts like
brine in which it is soaked, and a mild with small holes. The goat flavor comes marshmallows in the mouth. The
goat flavor. it develops a natural brown through as herbaceous with a hint sprinkling of pepper imparts a warm,
rind, or is waxed at three days old for a of marzipan. spicy but not overpowering bite.
slightly softer texture. HOw TO EnjOy This works well in soufflés HOw TO EnjOy Perfect with a crisp white
HOw TO EnjOy Choose for subtle flavor in and tarts, or on the cheeseboard with a wine and as the rind is very thin it is
soufflés and tarts, or serve on a plain fruity red wine, or perhaps a glass of excellent melted or baked on root
cracker with a light ale. Sharpham rosé. vegetables, steak, or chicken.

ENGLAND Gallowfields, North Yorkshire ENGLAND Totnes, Devon ENGLAND Cottingham, East Yorkshire 199
Age 6–12 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 2–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), basket Weight and Shape 6oz (170g), log
Size D. 61⁄2in (16cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm) Size L. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), H. 2in (4.5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Soft white
Producer Swaledale Cheese Company Producer Sharpham Partnership Producer Lowna Dairy

Yarg cornish cheese a closer look

Yarg Cornish Cheese, one of the most attractive and unusual Each cheese is a labor of love, made
cheeses created since the revival of British artisan cheeses started by hand in open vats by a team of
in the early 1980s, was first made by Alan and Jenny Gray in dedicated cheesemakers. Every nettle
Withiel on the edge of Bodmin Moor. Trying to think of a good that makes up the unique rind is
local name, they eventually decided that Yarg, Gray spelled individually picked, no stems or
backward, sounded Cornish and was uniquely theirs. stalks, no holes or debris, and not a
sun scorch mark in sight.

GrEAT BrITAIN AND IrELAND In 1984, the Horrell family, who How To enjoY Without doubt, nettles are hand picked locally in May when they
farmed nearby, started making the Yarg adds style and character to any don’t sting, and are frozen to use later in the year.
Yarg and later in partnership with cheeseboard. It has a low melting
Catherine and Ben Mead, who built point and quickly adds a touch of
a new dairy on their farm, Pengreep, glamour to crostinis, baguettes, baked
in West Cornwall. The Horrells have potatoes, and pasta. Not overpowering,
since retired and all the cheese is it partners well with fish and is
now made at Pengreep Dairy. perfect for use in vegetable gratins.
The Meads serve it with a local cider,
The Meads returned to the family Perry (fermented pear juice), or mild
farm, leaving behind their London ale. It also goes well with almost any
careers—Catherine to work on the wine, especially fruity whites or even
cheese and Ben to work with the a dessert wine.
dairy herd. Since then, he has
invested an enormous amount of
time and resources to creating the
best possible soil and diversity of
pastures resulting in exceptional
quality milk from their mixed herd of
Ayrshire, Jersey, and Friesian cows.
They are an amazing dedicated team
and now make 200 tons of cheese a
year in their highly sustainable
bespoke dairy.

TasTing noTes With age, the

leaves start to break down the rind,

making it very soft and creamy. As the

cheese matures, the fine crumbly

200 texture has a fresh, creamy taste while
the edible nettles impart a delicate,

slightly mushroomy aroma and a

wonderful taste, not so different from

spinach or asparagus. Wild Garlic Yarg

is similar but softer with a very subtle

taste of garlic.

ENGLAND Truro, Cornwall
Age 6–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 7lb (3.3kg), wheel
Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Flavor-added
Producers Lynher Dairies

MATURING The cheeses
are matured and carefully
monitored to ensure even
distribution of the white

mold, so each cheese emerges
as a unique masterpiece and

an example of human’s
ingenuity working alongside

Mother Nature.

NETTLING The freshly formed,
pale ivory cheese is taken to the
nettling room where the nettles are
applied by hand ensuring every leaf
overlaps and no cheese is exposed.

Mild, crumbly, THE RIND As the cheese ripens, a fine The combination of nettles and
and has a subtle gray mist appears around the jagged molds speed up the breakdown of
the curd near the rind.
flavor from edges of the green leaves making a very
the nettles.
attractive eye-catching surface.

eNglANd

201
Interior

Tunworth Tymsboro Village Green

GreAT briTAin AnD ireLAnD Good friends Stacey Hedges and Julie Former archaeologist Mary Holbrook Green by name, green by nature, the
Cheyney use milk from a local herd of developed this cheese, using milk from brightly colored wax contains a
Holstein cows that graze on the her own herd, which grazes the Mendip brilliant white cheese made by Cornish
Hampshire Downs to make this highly Hills. Following tradition, the goats are Country Larder at its dairy farm in
acclaimed Camembert-style cheese. milked only from spring through to the Somerset. with its sweet nuttiness, it’s
Although they started their venture in fall, their period of outdoor grazing. A the perfect introduction for those
their own kitchens, they have now coating of charcoal and salt gives this unsure about goat’s cheese.
progressed to a converted cowshed cheese an attractive gray-white rind. TASTinG noTeS Pure white, dense, and
dairy on the family farm. TASTinG noTeS This is creamy at the edge slightly crumbly, Village Green has a
TASTinG noTeS A wrinkled, mold-dusted and drier, dense and more flavorful in the refreshing, lemony zing, with the
rind conceals a sumptuous, creamy middle. Tymsboro has a subtle flavor of subtle, aromatic character of the goat’s
paste with a warm mushroom flavor. lemon and almonds, which strengthens milk coming through on the finish.
How To enJoy For complete melt-in-the- and deepens as the cheese matures. How To enJoy A very versatile choice for
mouth indulgence, warm in the oven How To enJoy eat as it comes, with fresh cooking, it is also a great alternative to
until gooey soft, or transport it whole, fruit, or melted over poached pears. Cheddar on the cheeseboard, with a
in its wooden packaging, for a picnic. slice of apple and a glass of port.

202 ENGLAND Herriard, Hampshire ENGLAND Timsbury, Somerset ENGLAND North Bradon, Somerset
Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–8 weeks Age 3–18 months
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), truncated Weight and Shape 23⁄4lb (1.25kg ), block
Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) pyramid Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm)
Milk Cow Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm) base; 11⁄2in (4cm) top, Milk Goat
Classification Soft white H. 3in (7.5cm) Classification Hard
Producer Hampshire Cheeses Milk Goat Producer Cornish Country Larder
Classification Aged Fresh
Producer Sleight Farm

Vulscombe Waterloo Wealden

Created in 1982 by josephine and The name is no coincidence, as this was Nut Knowle Farm was established in eNGLaND
Graham Townsend, this was one of the originally made on the Duke of 1979. it now makes a wide variety of
first english goat’s milk cheeses on the Wellington’s estate from Guernsey cheeses using vegetarian rennet and
market. Made by lactic fermentation milk. Nowadays, the Wigmores make it produced by their herd of pedigree
rather than with rennet, Vulscombe with locally sourced milk from behind British Toggenburg and British saanen
has a slightly thicker feel than other, their home, which hides a wonderful goats, which live on a natural diet of
similar cheeses. dairy, once a workshop and stables. cereals and lush meadow hay.
TasTiNG NoTes Unlike most fresh TasTiNG NoTes Bite through the soft, TasTiNG NoTes Wealden comes in two
cheeses, it feels thick rather than light lightly molded rind into the pale, soft forms: a soft, fresh cheese with a
in the mouth, but it has a citrussy paste for a mild, creamy taste when creamy, mild goat tang or aged for
freshness and a barely discernible young that matures to a rich, buttery 3–4 weeks, when it has a pungent,
herbaceous goaty tang. flavor as the cheese ages. earthy flavor and wrinkly, edible rind.
HoW To eNjoy With its decorative bay HoW To eNjoy This is delicious at room HoW To eNjoy Cut the cheese in half, and
leaf, it looks good a cheeseboard. easy temperature with some cold green dip in egg wash and breadcrumb, then
to spread on crackers or bread, or try it grapes, or warm it through and serve deep-fry and serve with some seared
in a twice-baked soufflé. with a tangy red onion chutney. young venison, chilli jam, and salad.

ENGLAND Cruwys Morchard, Devon ENGLAND Riseley, Berkshire ENGLAND Gun Hill, East Sussex 203
Age Up to 5 weeks Age 4–10 weeks Age 1–4 weeks
Weight and Shape 6oz (170g), round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), round Weight and Shape 23⁄4oz (80g), round
Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 61⁄2in (16cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat
Classification Fresh Classification Soft white Classification Soft white
Producer Vulscombe Cheese Producer Village Maid Cheese Producer Nut Knowle Farm

Wealdway Wedmore Wensleydale

greAT briTAiN AND irelAND Another cheese from Nut Knowle Created by Chris Duckett, famous for introduced by French monks in the
Farm’s goats, Wealdway is a small log his authentic Caerphilly, Wedmore is a 11th century and immortalized by
that comes either plain or coated in Caerphilly matured with a thin layer of Wallace and gromit in the 20th, it was
herbs and seeds, or as a larger, mature finely chopped chives. originally made originally made with ewe’s milk, but
version coated in charcoal. The curds at the Duckett’s farm in Wedmore replaced with cow’s milk by the 17th
are hand-ladled into molds and drained village, it is now made by jemima century. Wensleydale Dairy Products is
under their own weight. Cordle at Westcombe Dairy, with equal the only yorkshire-based producer.
TAsTiNg NoTes The basic Wealdway is care and passion for quality. They use both cow or ewe milk.
soft and fairly dry in texture, with a TAsTiNg NoTes Wedmore is ready to eat TAsTiNg NoTes Pale white with a firm
mild goat flavor, but because it is eaten after just two weeks, when it is waxy but dense slightly flaky texture, it has
young, the cheese also possesses a on the surface, but crumbly and moist a subtle wild honey flavor balanced by
sharp piquancy. inside. The mild saltiness is balanced the cheese’s refreshing acidity.
HoW To eNjoy To make the most of the by the tang of chives. HoW To eNjoy With crackers, of course!
log shape (very attractive for dinner HoW To eNjoy great either on its own or in yorkshire, they also like to pair that
parties), cut into medallions and serve paired with a local cider, or sweeten sweetness with a piece of apple pie.
grilled as an entrée. with slices of crisp apple.

204 ENGLAND Gun Hill, East Sussex ENGLAND Westcombe, Somerset ENGLAND Wensleydale, North Yorkshire
Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 6–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), log Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder
Size D. 21⁄4in (5.5cm), L. 51⁄2in (14cm) Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 7in (18cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added Classification Hard
Producer Nut Knowle Farm Producer Duckett’s Caerphilly Producer Wensleydale Dairy Products

Whitehaven White Nancy White Stilton PDO

Whitehaven is now owned by Ravens Pete Humphries worked for Bath Soft White Stilton has a Protected engLanD
oak Dairy, which was bought by Cheese Company before setting up in Designation of origin (PDo), meaning
Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses. it is partnership with Roger Longman and it can be made only in Derbyshire,
still made by hand at the dairy, handmaking cheeses using milk from nottinghamshire, and Leicestershire;
however, in small batches to ensure Roger’s 600-strong herd of goats. This other requirements are that it is made
that it retains its smooth, soft texture is a cheese made by thermization, a from locally produced milk, which must
and farmhouse character. process that involves heat, but not to be pasteurized. a popular base for
TaSTing noTeS Smooth and soft with a the same extent as that involved in the many blended or flavor-added cheeses.
white mold rind, Whitehaven has a process of pasteurization. TaSTing noTeS Much underrated, White
subtle almond flavor when young, TaSTing noTeS Moist and crumbly, White Stilton has a fresh, creamy mild flavor
which develops into a deeper goaty nancy has a fresh, lemony taste, with allied with a fine, crumbly moist texture.
tang as the cheese ripens. hints of tarragon and almonds. HoW To enjoy Savor as it comes, or
HoW To enjoy Try baking it until creamy HoW To enjoy Try it cut into cubes and crumbled into salad. White Stilton
on the outside, but still cool on the dropped like croutons into a hot soup, with apricot goes very well with a
inside; if you want the untainted hit of such as leek and potato, or crumble it sweet dessert wine.
goat, leave to ripen until gooey. into a salad.

ENGLAND Burland, Cheshire ENGLAND Pylle, Somerset ENGLAND Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and 205
Age 6–8 weeks Age 2 months Leicestershire
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Age 3–4 weeks
Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), cylinder
Milk Goat Milk Goat Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 10in (25cm)
Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Milk Cow
Producer Ravens Oak Dairy Producer White Lake Cheeses Classification Hard
Producer Various

Windrush Woolsery English Goat Wyfe of Bath

gReAT BRITAIn AnD IReLAnD Modelled on traditional French Woolsery english goat is the result named after Chaucer’s pilgrim,
methods, Windrush is made by two of Annette Lee’s dedication to unique this is made by graham Padfield, a
Australians, Renee and Richard artisan cheesemaking as well as the third-generation farmer and a family
Loveridge, who moved to the Windrush lush green slopes of Dorset that allow pioneer in the cheese world. He has
Valley in 2003 and quickly established the goats to graze on an abundance of established an excellent reputation in
a dedicated local following. It is also grass and hay. the region for cheesemaking skills.
available flavored with herbs,
peppercorns, or garlic. TAsTIng noTes Moist and open-textured TAsTIng noTes The yellow paste,
TAsTIng noTes Windrush is only made with a subtle but distinct goaty taste bounded by a natural brown rind, is
in small batches. It has a luxurious that hints of pine nuts and green grass. smooth and springy with a mild flavor
creamy texture and a lemon fresh tang It has a sea-breeze salty finish. redolent of buttercups and meadows.
with hints of fruitiness and white wine.
HoW To enjoy Crumble it into tarts HoW To enjoy eat on the cheeseboard, HoW To enjoy It seems a waste to cook
or eaten simply as it is with a cool together with some apple or pear. with this excellent award-winning
sauvignon Blanc. It is perfect for a cheese omelet or cheese, instead serve it on a
grated and used in cooking in place cheeseboard with crusty bread and
of Cheddar. a fruity Beaujolais.

206 ENGLAND Windrush, Oxfordshire ENGLAND Up Sydling, Dorset ENGLAND Bath, Somerset
Age 5 days Age 8–12 weeks Age 4 months
Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), basket
Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H.21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 15in (38cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Producer Windrush Valley Goat Dairy Producer Woolsery Cheese Producer Bath Soft Cheese

scotland

Bishop Kennedy Blue Monday Cairnsmore Ewes

Now made by Inverloch Cheese, Bishop Named after the New Order song, Made with milk from the farm’s own sCOtlANd
Kennedy was created in 1992 by Blue Monday was created by Alex flock of ewes, Cairnsmore ewes is
Howgate Creamery. It was modelled on James of British band Blur and cheese aromatic, with a rusty-red sandpaper
Reblochon, but is dowsed in whisky and expert, Juliet Harbutt. It is the only rind that resembles the landscape of
named after the bishop who founded cube shaped blue cheese in the world. Mars. Clothbound and aged for a
st. Andrews University in scotland. tAstINg NOtes soft and creamy with minimum of six months, it achieves
tAstINg NOtes with an orange-red rind hints of gold leaf and the sea breeze a wonderful full flavor.
and a velvety smooth paste, Bishop on highland pastures. It has a kick of tAstINg NOtes with hints of old-style
Kennedy has a spicy, yeasty tang and malt and chocolate, yet a surprisingly caramel toffee, it is moist on the mouth
the powerful aroma of warm gym socks. mild spicy blue. and has hints of boot polish developing
HOw tO eNJOy Irresistible on the HOw tO eNJOy the unique shape into a salty sweetness. Very satisfying.
cheeseboard, but also wonderful grated lends itself to the cheeseboard, but HOw tO eNJOy Ideal for the cheeseboard,
over mashed potatoes or melted on top Blue Monday also makes a great soufflé but also good with a crisp salad with
of a rare juicy steak. or blue cheese mousse, and can be used pickled onions and warm crusty
in cheese caviar. bread, or in a quiche with lots of
chopped chives.

SCOTLAND Campbeltown, Argyll and Bute SCOTLAND Tain, Highland SCOTLAND Wigtownshire, Dumfries and 207
Age 3 months Age 3 months Gallow
Weight and Shape 1.7kg (3lb 12oz), wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675gm), cube Age 6–8 months
Size D. 23cm (9in), H. 4cm (11⁄2in) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg),
Milk Cow Milk Cow truckles
Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 9in (23cm)
Producer Inverloch Cheese Producer Highland Fine Cheese Milk Ewe
Classification Hard
Producer Galloway Farmhouse Cheeses

Clava Brie Crowdie Cuillin Goats

gReAT BRiTAiN AND iRelAND At Connage Highland Dairy, the Clark Believed to have been introduced by Named after the mountains on the
family is making some truly wonderful the Vikings, Crowdie was traditionally isle of skye that rise majestically
cheeses using their own Jersey Cross, made by crofters—tenant farmers— behind the West Highland Dairy,
Holstein Friesian, and Norwegian with skimmed milk. in gaelic, it is Cuillin goat is the creation of Kathy
Red cows. They graze on the lush known as Gruth. Biss, an old-school cheesemaker, who
pastures of clover and wild herbs at TAsTiNg NoTes A fresh lemon acidity has also written books and teaches the
the banks of the Moray Firth. and the taste of crushed almonds on art of cheesemaking.
TAsTiNg NoTes Under the crusty white the top of the mouth. The crumbly and TAsTiNg NoTes Fresh, soft, and slightly
rind, the paste is soft and creamy with creamy finish hints of freshly baked sharp on the tongue, it has a somewhat
the subtle taste of sweet meadows and yeasty bread. citrus nose, mild goaty taste, and the
mushrooms. With age, the taste becomes HoW To eNJoy A great alternative to subtle smell of highland grazing.
more complex and slightly bitter. heavy cream in the scottish dessert, HoW To eNJoy great in summer salads
HoW To eNJoy serve alongside a hard Cranachan, or spread on oatcakes with with olives and red onions, it also sits
cheese on a cheeseboard, or melt it fine smoked salmon. well on a cheeseboard, or simply
onto smoked ham and toasted bread crumbled over oatcakes with a dusting
smeared with english mustard. of black pepper and sea salt.

208 SCOTLAND Ardersier, Inverness SCOTLAND Tain, Highland SCOTLAND Achmore, Higland
Age 3 weeks Age From 2 days Age 1–2 weeks
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and 2 1⁄4lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (120g), log Weight and Shape 7oz (210g), round
(1.5kg), round Size L. 3in (8cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (3.5cm)
Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 10in (25cm), Milk Cow Milk Goat
H. 1in (3cm) Classification Fresh Classification Fresh
Milk Cow Producer Highland Fine Cheese Dairy Producer West Highland Dairy
Classification Soft white
Producer Connage Highland Dairy

Dunlop Iona Cromag Kebbuck

Revived in the mid-1980s by anne Made by the Reade family on the Made by the wonderful people of
Dorward, Dunlop is now made by a Isle of Mull, Iona Cromag has a Camphill Trust near Dumfries, this
handful of cheesemakers across sticky pink-orange rind that is washed fine distinctive cheese is washed then
scotland. The best are made with in whisky from the nearby Tobermory literally hung out to dry in a cloth.
traditional ayrshire milk. Distillery. after two months, the rind develops
a brown, prehistoric appearance.
TasTIng noTes sweet and mild to taste, it TasTIng noTes supple and sticky, the TasTIng noTes a sponge-like center with sCoTlanD
has a pale primrose yellow rind and a buttery flavor is balanced with the a crispy outer crust, Kebbuck has a
buttery Cheddar paste. at six months, whisky, achieving an enticing, hot, subtle sweet to peppery taste with a
the texture is similar to soft fudge; at creamy finish, and a taste reminiscent mild finish of bees wax. you can almost
12 months it is firm and fragrant. of wild mushrooms baking under taste the cows trampling the grass in
How To enjoy an afternoon tea favorite, the autumn sun. the morning dew.
enjoy it with hot scones and assam How To enjoy a real player on the How To enjoy great on a British
tea. alternatively, add slices to oatcakes cheeseboard, serve it with Muscat cheeseboard, or simply on its own with
with mustard and a dram of whisky. grapes or ripe Turkish figs and a scrumpy cider. It can also be added to
Children love it on toast with dram of whisky. the topping of a buttery apple crumble.
warm milk.

SCOTLAND All over SCOTLAND Tobermory, Isle of Mull SCOTLAND Dumfries, Dumfriesshire 209
Age 6–12 months Age 4–6 months Age 2 months
Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g), teardrop
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 12in (30cm) 41⁄2lb (2kg), drum Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Cow Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 9in (23cm), Milk Cow
Classification Hard H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Milk Ewe Producer Loch Arthur Creamery
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Isle of Mull Cheese

caboc a cloSer look

While the Romans played a significant role in improving Like many artisan cheeses, Caboc’s
cheesemaking in England, their influence did not cross the development was due to the raw
borders into Scotland. Instead, most cheese was made by crofters, materials available—an abundance
most likely introduced by the Vikings. of milk and Scottish oats.

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Caboc is similar to Crowdie (see Using raw milk from their own farm, milk churnS The cream is skimmed
p208), a traditional Scottish cheese she set about recreating the recipe. from the milk, having been collected from two
made from milk that has curdled Today it is made in exactly the same dairy farms in Caithness, and poured into a small
naturally without rennet. While way at Highland Fine Cheese round vat where starter cultures are added, then
Crowdie is made with skimmed milk, Company, owned and run by her son stirred and left to slowly ripen in milk churns for
Caboc is made with extra cream. It is Ruaraidh. The milk comes from the upward of 3 months.
said to have been created in the 15th most northerly herds on mainland
century by Mariota de Ile, daughter Scotland in Caithness, a barren,
of The Macdonald, Lord of the Isles. treeless area that is fairly flat and
Forced to flee to Ireland to avoid exposed to the cold northerly winds.
abduction and marriage by the As a result, the cows are of sturdy
Campbells. When she returned home stock, traditional friesian with some
to the Isle of Skye, she brought with Ayrshire, and store more fat to protect
her the recipe for Caboc, turning the them from the harsh elements; this
rich milk of the island into a richer gives the protein and solids rich milk,
and more fitting cheese for the Lord ideal for cheesemaking.
of the Isle and his clan.
TaSTing noTeS Made with cream
Like so many great recipes, it enriched milk, it feels very rich,
survived by being passed on, smooth, and buttery with a nutty taste
generation to generation, although but slightly sharp on the finish like
it had all but disappeared until its sour cream, while the toasted pinhead
revival in 1962 by Susannah Stone, oats give it a nutty yeasty flavor and a
a distant descendant of the creator. pleasant gentle crunchy feel.

210 how To enjoy Caboc is at home
on any grand dining room cheese table,
Sturdy Highland cattle but is also versatile in the kitchen.
Slice onto a blood orange or clementine
salad with a handful of bitter salad
leaves, or stir into fluffy mashed
potatoes served with sliced roast ham
and onion relish. A Stone family
favorite is to grill some on haggis from
the excellent local butcher served with
a glass of Glenmorangie whisky made
just down the road.

SCOTLAND Tain, Ross-shire
Age 3+ months
Weight and Shape 33⁄4oz (110g), logs
Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), L. 31⁄4in (8cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Fresh
Producers Highland Fine Cheeses

manual pressing The cream shaping The soft curd is very malleable
and milk sours and is poured into bags hung and is easily shaped into logs.

to drain. the oatmeal Rolling the small cheese
in toasted pinhead oatmeal was an invention of
Susannah’s. She felt the flavor was enhanced
with the addition of the meal and that it added
a nice texture.

Log, sliced

SCOTLAND

The texture is more 211
like cream cheese
than cheese. The crunchy oatmeal is the perfect
counterbalance to the soft, creamy interior.

Lanark Blue Orkney Strathdon Blue

gREat BRitain anD iRElanD Humphrey Errington uses Roquefort Made by Hilda seator on her farm on Made in tain on the east coast of
mold, then ages the cheese for three the isolated, windswept orkney island, scotland by Rory stone, makers of
months. During this time, it develops it has the consistency, but not the taste Caboc (see p210–211), one of scotland’s
into a cheese with a complex flavor due of, wensleydale. it is a lactic cheese, so oldest cheeses, and Blue Monday (see
to the wild heather and natural no rennet is used. p207), it develops smudges of silver-
pastures on which the ewe’s graze. tasting notEs Pale with a chewy bite gray mold, and patches of sky blue on
tasting notEs it is soft as putty in the and a lemony zest. there is a hint of the sticky golden rind.
center, has a crumbly outer crust, and is butternut squash, and a yeasty breathe tasting notEs well-spread blue veining
sharp as grapefruit with the meatiness like an old brewing room, on the finish. and a slight peppery taste and spicy
of aged rib of highland beef. it can have How to Enjoy it can be enjoyed with a tang. it can sometimes finish with the
elements of sweetness and be steely blue. single malt whiskey when crumbled essence of mousse-like milky chocolate.
How to Enjoy great on a cheeseboard onto cornbread, or alongside traditional How to Enjoy outstanding in twice-
alongside stalks of celery and crisp fruit cake with a cup of afternoon tea. baked soufflés or with walnuts and
crackers or grated over a substantial a good breakfast cheese, it goes well dressed salad leaves, it sits well on
warm winter salad with hot roasted with grilled ham, and warm, lightly- raisin bread, and is great melted
onions and winter squash. cooked eggs. on steaks.

212 SCOTLAND Carnwath, Lanarkshire SCOTLAND Kirkwall, Orkney Islands SCOTLAND Tain, Highland
Age 3 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape7lb 7oz (3.5kg), Weight and Shape 6lb (2.8kg), wheel
Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 5in (12cm) pressed rounds Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Ewe Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow
Classification Blue Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer H J Errington Classification Hard Producer Highland Fine Cheese
Producer Grimbister Farm

wales

Cerwyn Dragons Back Ffetys

Cerwyn is produced on Pant Mawr Caws Mynydd Du means “Black nigel jefferies and his wife Rhian waLes
Farm, situated in the heart of the Mountains Cheese” and was set up by established a creamery in 2008 to
Preseli Mountains, and was established the Meredith family to use the ewe’s manufacture soft cheeses from their
in 1983 when the jennings family milk from their own farm that nestles herd of 50 goats. their cheeses include
returned from setting up a dairy at the foot of the Black Mountains. Ffetys, a Feta-type cheese, and a
enterprise in Libya and north yemen. Dragons Back is based on a traditional variety of curd cheeses called Peli Pabo.
tasting notes Hard but unpressed with Caerphilly recipe. tasting notes soft and crumbly with
a smooth, velvety texture and buttery tasting notes attractive rustic rind, the a creamy consistency, it has a classic
color, its mature flavor has a slight raw rich ewe’s milk provides the firm, yet salty, lemony tang, a slight peppery
onion tang, and nutty aftertaste. creamy texture, and sweet flavor with a quality, and just a hint of goat.
How to enjoy it is perfect for the slight citrus aftertaste. How to enjoy excellent in salads; baked
cheeseboard, served with a rich How to enjoy ideal for cheeseboards in savory tarts with red onions and
Bordeaux. it is also delicious with fresh with soave, or late-harvest Riesling. it thyme; in pasta and omelets; or stuffed
fruit and preserves, and excellent in grates well, and melts perfectly. grate into home baked bread with rosemary.
sauces for dishes such as macaroni and it into a piping hot bowl of leek and serve with a new Zealand sauvignon
cheese, and for melting on toast. potato soup. Blanc or dry Riesling.

WALES Clynderwen, Pembrokeshire WALES Brecon, Powys WALES Dulas, Isle of Anglesey 213
Age 6 months Age 8 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), truckle, or Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), blocks
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 2in (5cm) 6½lb (3kg), wheel Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 6in (15cm),
Milk Cow Size D. 4½in (11cm), H. 4in (10cm); H. 2in (5cm)
Classification Hard D. 8in (20cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Goat
Producer Pant Mawr Farmhouse Milk Ewe Classification Fresh
Classification Hard Producer Y Cwt Caws
Producer Caws Mynydd Du

Gorau Glas Hafod Pant-Ys-Gawn

greAT BriTAin AnD irelAnD Margaret Davies started cheesemaking Sam Holden, son of the founder of the Made by Abergavenny Fine Foods, the
to add value to the milk from the family Soil Association, created Hafod in 2008 first commercial producers of goat
dairy herd, and has gone from strength on the longest established organic farm cheese in Wales, it has proved extremely
to strength, with gorau glas, “Blue in Wales, using a cheddar recipe and successful in supermarkets across the
Moon,” a small blue truckle with a their own Ayrshire cow’s milk. country. named after the family farm
gray-green mold the most successful. TASTing noTeS The rich, creamy quality where it was first made, it is available
TASTing noTeS Deliciously creamy of the milk gives the cheese a full yet with or without fresh herbs.
with a subtle, yet distinctively spicy pure taste, and with age, it becomes TASTing noTeS it is a fresh, pure white,
aftertaste when young, as it matures hard and chewy with a lively, complex clean, and mild-tasting cheese with a
the flavor gives a strong blue sensation tang, and a green, grassy finish. smooth, creamy texture. it is refreshing
on the palette. HoW To enjoy ideal for the cheeseboard, and crisp with a mild goaty finish.
HoW To enjoy A versatile cheese, try it and delicious with crusty bread and a HoW To enjoy Spread thickly on crusty
crumbled in a bitter leaf salad with glass of chilled beer. it has a good bread; melt over bruschetta with vine
sliced ripe pears and toasted walnuts, melting quality and is excellent in tomatoes; or make a delicious savory
or served with fresh figs and Sauternes, gratin dishes. cheesecake mixed with fresh herbs.
or perhaps Tawny Port. Serve with Sancerre or rosé.

214 WALES Dwyran, Isle of Anglesey WALES Credigion, West Wales WALES Abergavenny, Monmouthshire
Age 8–10 weeks Age 12 months Age 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), drum
small truckle Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 10in (25cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 1in (3cm)
Size D. 1in (3.5cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat
Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Fresh
Classification Blue Producer Holden Dairy Farm Producer Abergavenny Fine Foods
Producer Quirt Farm

Perl Las Pont Gar Saval

Thelma adams, a cheesemaker from Carmarthenshire Cheese was founded john Savage at Teifi Farmhouse waLES
wales, started making traditional in 2006 by Steve and Sian Elin Peace. Cheeses has created a number of
Caerphilly, in 1987 with raw milk from Having worked in the dairy industry for hard cheeses, including a traditional
her own herd. Perl Las, which 25 years, they decided to join forces to Caerphilly, and washed rind cheeses
translates from welsh as “Blue Pearl,” create their own range of soft cheeses from raw milk. Some have been made
followed in 2001. using the excellent local milk. in conjunction with Britain’s first
TaSTing noTES it has an earthy, moldy TaSTing noTES a soft white Brie-style affineur, james aldridge.
aroma, typical of a true blue, with a cheese, it has a mild, velvety texture TaSTing noTES This is a dumpling-
smooth, creamy texture, and a mellow with a hint of mushrooms, and a sweet shaped cheese with a pink-orange rind,
yet strong taste with a spicy, vaguely buttery taste with a slight sharpness supple and elastic yellow interior, a
herbaceous finish. on the finish. it can also be smoked or distinct, pungent farmyard aroma, and
How To Enjoy a good blue for the made with herbs. a savory, meaty finish.
cheeseboard, melted on hot fillet steak,
or used in a dressing for fresh, crisp How To Enjoy This cheeseboard classic How To Enjoy a must for cheese lovers,
salads. Best with a dry Riesling, Tawny is delicious with seasonal fruits and and beautifully accompanied by a
Port, or beer. nuts. Serve with a new world Merlot dry gewürztraminer. it also makes
or cider. a pungent addition to a fondue.

WALES Boncath, Carmarthenshire WALES Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire WALES Llandysul, Powys 215
Age 12–16 weeks Age 5 weeks Age 6–7 weeks
Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g) and Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), dumpling
51⁄2lb (2.5kg), wheel Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 10in (26cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Size D. 4in (10cm) and 8in (20cm), Milk Cow Milk Cow
H. 3in (8cm) and 4in (10cm) Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow Producer Carmarthenshire Cheese Company Producer Teifi Farmhouse Cheese
Classification Blue
Producer Caws Cenarth

Caerphilly a Closer look

the only traditional cheese associated with Wales, Caerphilly a simple cheese in appearance and
was a favorite of the Welsh miners and made on numerous small- taste, yet what liberates mediocrity
scale farms in glamorgan and Monmouth between the early into greatness is the quality of the
1800s and 1914. raw materials, the method, and above
all the passion the makers have for
today there are a handful of their art.
farmhouse Caerphillys made in
the Welsh valleys by Caws Cenarth,
trethowan’s dairy, and nantybwla.
Most is matured for a few months
rather than a few days and more
likely to be found in top london
restaurants than a miner’s
lunch box.

TasTing noTes Caerphilly has rind the molds that grow on the rind of the
a delicious fresh taste and sometimes, Caerphilly give it a mottled appearance.
when the grazing is at its best, its
great britain and ireland Caerphilly Castle in the historical town usual herbaceous sweetness is infused
of Caerphilly. like a rustic béchamel sauce by the
scent of crushed bracken moistened
the years after the First World War by autumnal rains.

were tough on the farming With age it becomes softer,
creamier, and more supple as
community and, with the advent of it grows a bluish gray coat
which sometimes sneaks onto
the railway, farmers were able to sell the surface of the cheese and
indicates it is still alive and
their milk, rather than preserve it as well; you just need to scrape
it off.
cheese, and subsequently cheese
how To enjoy
production dwindled. after the Caerphilly’s mild, lemony fresh
flavor means it can be used in
Ministry of Food stopped all sweet or savory dishes, but it is
especially delicious with Welsh
production of Caerphilly until 1954, rabbit (also known as rarebit).
the cheese is very good melted
traditional Welsh Caerphilly did not on toast or with crusty bread,
but it can be mixed with beer,
reappear until the 1980s. egg, Worcestershire sauce, and
mustard for an interesting
Fortunately, at the turn of the 20th combination. Serve with beer,
local cider, or a white wine
century, some Somerset Cheddar from one of the new
Welsh vineyards.
makers, seeing the economic

advantages, decided to turn their

hands to Caerphilly, as it was ready

216 to sell within a few weeks compared
to twelve months for Cheddar. a few,

like ducketts, continued after the

war but making less and less until

the cheese revolution in the 1980s,

coinciding with the campaign for

traditional cheese by Patrick rance.

WALES All over
Age 4 days to 4 months
Weight and Shape 91⁄2lb (4.5kg), wheel
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

cutting the curd The curd is cut draining the
using special knives, long enough to reach the whey The curd is stirred
by hand in the whey until
bottom of the vat. as they are drawn slowly the desired acidity is
reached, traditionally
through the milk, they cut the curd in three ways, determined when an imprint
producing 1⁄2in (1cm) very soft and floppy cubes. of a hand remains on the
pressed curd. The whey is
then drained, the curd cut
again and piled into molds
lined with cheesecloth. all of
this is done by hand. The
molds are stacked three to
four cheeses high under the
press separated by metal
trays and then the pressure
is applied. They remain in
the press for 20–30 minutes.

Cheeses that are allowed to maturing The following day, they are soaked in a brine
mature for 3–4 months develop bath, dried off, and put in a cold room where they remain for

a magnificent thick gray coat 4–7 days before being sold.
and more complex flavor.

wales

217

The interior is a yellow-white color like a
magnolia, with fine, paler, almost white
marbling throughout.

GreAT briTAiN ANd irelANd Talley Mountain Talley Mountain Teifi Farmhouse
Goat Cheese Mature Cheese
After moving from the Netherlands,
What makes the cheeses, fudge, Set on 50 acres of rolling green hills, John Savage set up his dairy in the
yogurt, and smoothies from Kid Me Cothi Valley Goats is home to the heart of Wales, and modeled his first
Not so good is that their goats graze 240 dairy goats and youngsters that cheese, Teifi Farmhouse, after Gouda—
the hills of the farm, so the milk is provide the delicately aromatic milk the cheese of his homeland.
always fresh. Nearby cheesemakers, for numerous cheeses that include a TASTiNG NoTeS The lush, wild pastures
Carmarthenshire Cheese, make the blue and ranscombe, with its rustic, in the Teifi valley give the cheese an
cheese on their behalf. tuffty blue-gray mold. exceptional flavor—herbaceous, fruity,
with a savory tang. Smooth and supple
TASTiNG NoTeS A cake-shaped cheese TASTiNG NoTeS it has a firm yet fine when young, it becomes dry, almost
with a thin white rind; dense, chalky grainy texture, fresh acidity, and an brittle, with age.
texture; and a fresh lactic flavor with almondy taste typical of hard goat’s HoW To eNJoy A classic for any
hints of tarragon and mushrooms. it milk cheeses. cheeseboard, and can be used in
becomes creamier with age. HoW To eNJoy At its best on a cooking where a strong cheese is
HoW To eNJoy delicious broiled, crumbled, cheeseboard, but also adds complexity to required. Perfect with Chardonnay.
or with pasta. like all goat cheese, its most sandwiches, tarts, and quiches.
best companion is a Sauvignon blanc. best with crisp whites or soft reds.

218 WALES Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire WALES Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire WALES Llandysul, Carmarthenshire
Age 6 weeks Age 2 months Age 6–12 months
Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cake Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), round Weight and Shape 33lb (15kg), boulder
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Kid Me Not Producer Cothi Valley Goats Producer Teifi Farmhouse

ireland

Ardrahan Ardsallagh Bellingham Blue

Founded in county Cork by eugene and jane and Gerard Murphy run the One of Ireland’s best blue cheeses, it is Ireland
Mary Burns in the 1980s to make use ardsallagh farm and dairy. Their made from raw milk from Glyde Farm’s
of the milk from their own herd, 400 goats provide the milk that enables closed herd of Friesians by dedicated
ardrahan remains one of Ireland’s best them to produce a range of handmade cheesemaker Peter Thomas.
loved washed-rind cheeses. hard and soft cheeses including an TasTInG nOTes Moist with blue-green
TasTInG nOTes Pale golden in the center excellent Crottin, as well as yogurt and mold and a natural rind, it is mild and
with a sticky terracotta rind, it has a bottled milk. gentle when young, then develops a
supple, dense, creamy interior with TasTInG nOTes when young it has a mild, rich, mellow, peppery tang with age.
a sweet savory taste and meaty nutty freshness; with age it becomes HOw TO enjOy extra mature cheeses
aftertaste that intensifies with age. hard, and can be grated when it has an work well with a glass of Barolo, or
a smoked version is also produced. almondy mellowness. It finishes with an sauternes. superb melted over steak,
HOw TO enjOy It melts superbly, so it can aromatic tang. also delicious smoked. or for stuffing chicken breasts and
be melted over vegetables, or added to HOw TO enjOy On the cheeseboard, great for soufflés, pasta, and in salads
an omelet. It is also suitable for a ardsallagh pairs well with reds, such as with pears or pomegranate seeds and
cheeseboard, and can be enjoyed with Montepulciano d’abruzzo, or cider. It’s toasted nuts.
a glass of beer. also good for use in quiches and tarts.

IRELAND Kanturk, Cork IRELAND Carrigtwohill, Cork IRELAND Castlebellingham, Louth 219
Age Small: 4–6 weeks, big: 12–14 weeks Age 4 months minimum Age 6–14 months
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 250g–11kg, rounds Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (10cm) Size D. 3–14in (8–35cm), H. 11⁄2–5in Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
Milk Cow (4–12cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Blue
Producer Ardrahan Farmhouse Classification Hard Producer Glyde Farm
Producer Ardsallagh Goats Products

Beenoskee Cashel Blue Coolea

great britain and ireland german born Maja binder produces one of ireland’s best-loved blues, this gouda-style cheese has received
some of ireland’s most unusual raw Cashel blue is made by the grubb many awards since it first came into
milk cheeses at dingle Peninsula dairy. family at beechmount Farm, with milk production in 1980. it is now made by
the milk is naturally salty, since the from the farm’s own pedigree british second-generation cheesemaker dicky
cows graze close to the sea, and local Friesian herd. willems and his wife, sinead.
seaweed is used for flavoring. Flavored tasting notes this soft, silky textured tasting notes this smooth, hard,
and seaweed flecked cheeses are also creamy blue with green-blue marbling pale-gold cheese has a handful of small
produced. has a medium flavor, with a gentle buzz holes. it is fruity and mild when young,
tasting notes the crusty rind of from the mold veining. but intensifies to a rich, nutty caramel
seaweed adds a natural, sea-salt flavor How to enjoy For maximum flavor, serve spiciness as it ages. rich milk from
to the fudgey, divinely creamy flavor of this cheeseboard cheese at room hilly grazing adds a herbaceous
the rind, and there’s the warm, spicy temperature with a ripe pear and a character to the mix.
aroma of the paste. sweet semillon or st. emilion wine. How to enjoy Coolea grates and melts
How to enjoy as a cheeseboard cheese, great melted onto grilled steak, well, and is good in omelets or salads.
this needs nothing more than a glass of crumbled into salads, or into a smooth enjoy it with a full-bodied red wine or
alsace riesling and some quince paste. celery soup. warming tawny Port.

220 IRELAND Castlegregory, Kerry IRELAND Fethard, Tipperary IRELAND Fermoy, Cork
Age 6–12 months Age 9–35 weeks Age 2–24 months
Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5 kg), drum Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg) and 20lb
(4–9kg), wheel Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (9kg), boulder
Size Various Milk Cow Size D. 10in (25cm) and 14in (35cm),
Milk Cow Classification Blue H. 4in (10cm)
Classification Hard Producer J & L Grubb Milk Cow
Producer Dingle Peninsula Cheese Dairy Classification Hard
Producer Coolea Farmhouse Cheese

Cooleeney Corleggy Crozier Blue

Cooleeney, ireland’s answer to silke Cropp’s Corleggy cheese ireland’s first ewe’s milk blue cheese, ireland
Camembert, is handmade by a fourth- from County Cavan was born out of Crozier Blue, was developed in 1993.
generation farming family in Tipperary, a farmhouse cheese revolution that The sister to Cashel Blue, it is similar
where lush grazing pastures provide helped put ireland on the culinary in taste to roquefort (see pp82–83).
rich, sweet milk. map. goats and cows dine out on the TasTing noTes The Crozier flock
TasTing noTes raw-milk Cooleeney is nearby drumlin pastures that are rich of British Friesland ewes graze on
sensuously rich in texture, with aromas with herbs. limestone to give the soft, creamy, and
of mushrooms and herbs, a full buttery TasTing noTes Corleggy has notes subtly crumbly cheese a steely dry
flavor, and good acidity. of lush sweet grass and wild herbs. piquancy and peppery punch.
How To enjoy it should be left out its natural rind is brine-washed How To enjoy Crozier Blue can be
to soften before eating, and is best and flavorful. served as a first course with ripe pears,
accompanied with a crusty baguette How To enjoy This cheese is perfect with walnuts, and delicate salad leaves,
and grapes. The wine needs to be plums or figs. it also grates well and or after dinner, with a glass of late-
gentle—a light red Valpolicella can be used in sauces or soufflés. bottled vintage Port or Tokaji. Use it
would suit. on blue-cheese pizza, in a quiche, or
added to risotto.

IRELAND Moyne, Tipperary IRELAND Belturbet, Cavan IRELAND Fethard, Tipperary 221
Age 8–14 weeks Age 2–4 months Age 10–35 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) and Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and 21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum
3lb 12oz (1.7kg), round (1kg), cylinder Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Size D. 3in (8cm) and 91⁄2in (24cm), Size D. 4in (10cm) and 6in (16cm), Milk Ewe
H. 1in (2.5cm) and 2in (4.5cm) H. 5in (12cm) Classification Blue
Milk Cow Milk Goat Producer J & L Grubb
Classification Soft-white Classification Hard
Producer Cooleeney Cheese Producer Corleggy Cheeses

Desmond Durrus Glebe Brethan

great britain and ireland desmond, which was named after an one of the original “big four” west Cork david and Mairead tiernan first made
iconic local peak, was originally cheeses. thirty years later, jeffa gill this wonderful hard, creamy cheese in
farmhouse based, but now, production still makes her washed-rind cheese in 2004. its strengths have been
has transferred to newmarket dunmanus bay, using time-honored attributed to the excellent milk from
Creamery, where the cheesemakers methods and raw milk. their herd of Montbeliarde cows.
oversee the proceedings. a sister tasting notes this orange-hued washed tasting notes when young, this
cheese, gabriel, is made with a slightly rind cheese is speckled with tiny holes. smooth and golden yellow cheese with
different temperature of milk. it is smooth, creamy, and sensuously intermittent holes, is fruity and creamy.
tasting notes a long-matured, swiss textured, with sublime grassy flavors aging adds spice, nuttiness, and a
style, thermophilic cheese, it has a hard and warm fruity notes that become gentle aromatic buzz, finished with
texture packed with piquant peppery nuttier and richer with age. a zesty tang.
spice and a rich, lengthy aftertaste. How to enjoy durrus is superb after How to enjoy this versatile cheese
How to enjoy on the cheeseboard, it is dinner with sancerre or Merlot. can be enjoyed as it comes with just
best with an alsatian white wine. Use durrus Melt, a type of fondue, is a an alsace Pinot gris. it is also nice in
in fondues and sauces or over pasta classic modern irish recipe. tartlets with caramelized onions, or
and leafy salads. in a smooth fondue or sauce.

222 IRELAND Schull, Cork IRELAND Durrus, Cork IRELAND Dunleer, Louth
Age 10 months–3 years Age 3–8 weeks Age 6–24 months
Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz (7kg), wheels Weight and Shape 9oz–3lb (250g–1.4kg), Weight and Shape 88lb 3oz–99lb 3oz
Size D. 12in (31cm), H. 4in (10cm) round (40–45kg), wheels
Milk Cow Size D. 4–61⁄2in (10–17cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 231⁄2–26in (60–66cm), H. 4in
Classification Hard Milk Cow (10cm)
Producer West Cork Natural Cheeses Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Producer Durrus Cheese Classification Hard
Producer Glebe Brethan Farmhouse

Grace Gubbeen Knockdrinna Gold

Grace is one of a range of organic fresh Gubbeen is a farmhouse cheese made helen Finnegan only started making ireland
cheeses packed in jars, covered with with milk from the farm’s herd of cheese in 2004, but she has already won
sunflower oil, and flavored with various Friesian and Kerry Cows. the orange awards for her goat’s and ewe’s milk
herbs and spices. sticky bacteria on the rind, which has cheeses, and more recently for her cow’s
tastinG notes it has a very fresh, soft, been named Gubbeenensis, is now milk cheese, lavistown (see p224).
creamy taste with herbaceous grassy world famous. tastinG notes Knockdrinna Gold is
notes from the sunflower oil. the other tastinG notes washed in brine, Gubbeen creamy and nutty. it is rind washed
cheeses in the range are flavored with is smooth and creamy, with tiny holes. with organic white wine, lending a rich
olives, nettles, chives, or pepper. it has gentle herb and floral notes with golden color and citrusy notes. a soft
how to enjoy eat on crusty bread, a meaty finish. creamy goat’s cheese and semi-soft
crackers, or sandwiches with peppery how to enjoy Match extra Mature ewe’s milk cheese are also produced.
salad leaves and tomatoes. smoked Gubbeen with fruit cake. how to enjoy on the cheeseboard or a
it’s good for baked potatoes, as an after dinner, it is superb with Chianti mixed cheese platter, it is best served
instant dip, or as a base for smoked or Bordeaux. Gubbeen melts with a grassy sauvignon Blanc. it is
salmon pâté, and it makes an excellent and omelets. ideal baked in a goat’s cheese tart.
luxurious cheesecake.

IRELAND Ladestown, Westmeath IRELAND Schull, Cork IRELAND Stoneyford, Kilkenny 223
Age A few days Age 12–16 weeks Age 2 months
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), glass jar Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–9lb 15oz Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3 kg), round
Size No size (500g–4.5kg), round Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (8cm)
Milk Cow Size D. 5–12in (12cm–30cm), H. 2–4in Milk Goat
Classification Fresh (5–10cm) Classification Semi-soft
Producer Moonshine Dairy Farm Milk Cow Producer Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Gubbeen Cheese

Lavistown Milleens Mossfield Organic

gReaT BRITaIn and IReLand More than a quarter of a century Ireland’s first farmhouse artisan This award-winning, organic farmhouse
ago, Lavistown was first made at cheese, Milleens, was created in 1976 cheese is from offaly, where the farm’s
Lavistown House by olivia goodwillie. by Veronica Steele. Veronica nicknamed Friesian and Rotbunt herd is kept on a
It is now made by Helen Finnegan the smallest Milleens a “dote”—an Irish variety of grazing, adding subtle
at Knockdrinna. term for something cherished. nuances to the milk.

TaSTIng noTeS This low-fat Caerphilly TaSTIng noTeS It is a washed-rind cheese TaSTIng noTeS This gouda-style cheese
style cheese has a thin, leathery, with an orange-pink hue and inviting has a moist, supple consistency and
pale-cream rind dusted with white, soft texture that becomes unctuously elegant mellow notes, becoming full
gray, and pink molds. It is tangy and runny. The flavor is mushroomy and bodied and crumbly as it ages. It is also
fresh when young, but becomes more herbaceous, with full woodland aromas. available with tomato and herbs, and
crumbly with a hint of spice with age. How To enjoy Serve with good bread, garlic and basil.
How To enjoy Pair it with wedges of preferably Irish soda, and a glass of How To enjoy Mossfield is great for the
dessert apple and a glass of ale. It adds Barolo or Claret. Milleens can be added cheeseboard, with a glass of claret, or
something special to apple pie or can be at the last minute to risotto or melted in tarts and quiches. The flavored
placed underneath the mincemeat before into vegetable soups, such as broccoli alternatives add zest to baked potatoes.
baking your Christmas mince pies. or cauliflower.

224 IRELAND Stoneyford, Kilkenny IRELAND Eyeries, Cork IRELAND Clareen, Offaly
Age 3 weeks–70 days Age 2–3 months Age 3–9 months
Weight and Shape 7lb 11oz (3.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and 23⁄4lb Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), wheels
Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (1.25kg), round Size D. 111⁄2in (29cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Cow Size 4in (10cm) and 9in (23cm), Milk Cow
Classification Hard H. 1in (3cm) and 11⁄2in (4cm) Classification Semi-soft
Producer Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese Milk Cow Producer Mossfield Organic Cheese
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Milleens Cheese

Mount Callan St. Gall Extra Mature St. Tola Log

Michael and Lucy Hayes created this In Fermoy, Cork, Frank, and Gudrun St. Tola is made from organic goat’s
cheese in 2000. This small, traditional, Shinnick have developed a superb milk from the Burren region of Clare,
Cheddar-style cheese is bound in range of farmhouse cheeses, including where limestone and alpine plants
cheese cloth and then matured on this hard cheese made with raw provide a wild, rocky landscape.
wooden shelves in a stone curing room. cow’s milk. Siobhan ni Ghairbhith also makes
Crottin and a hard goat’s milk cheese.
TaSTInG noTeS a few tell-tale cracks in TaSTInG noTeS It has a naturally hard TaSTInG noTeS This classic chèvre-style IReLand
the hard gray rind suggest a lovely rind, a rich gold color, and small holes log has a pale, wrinkly rind tinged with
moistness in the creamy, golden punctuating the creamy consistency. pink and a silky texture with a subtle
interior. It has well-developed, earthy Sweet milky flavors are rounded with nutty, goaty flavor and crisp finish.
flavors and, with age, develops a blast toasty, almost cookie-ish, notes and a How To enjoy Serve it melted or fresh
of heat on the finish. fresh, spicy acidity to finish. with sourdough bread and grapes, or
with slices of pear and a white
How To enjoy It adds rich personality to How To enjoy This needs no adornment, Bordeaux. Crumble it into salads or
a cheeseboard. Like Cheddar, it is great just a glass of decent red wine. In serve on warm toasted brioche drizzled
in sauces or grated. Superb with a full cooking, it melts well for welsh with honey, and enjoy with a Sauternes.
bodied red or port. Rarebit, mixed with chopped spring
onions or tomatoes.

IRELAND Ennistimon, Clare IRELAND Fermoy, Cork IRELAND Burren, Clare 225
Age 9–18 months Age 3–6 months Age 3–5 weeks
Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg) and 33lb Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), round Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), log
(15kg), cylinder Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size L. 81⁄2in (21cm), D. 3in (8cm)
Size D. 6in (15cm) and 12in (30cm), Milk Cow Milk Goat
H. 5in (13cm) and 15in (38cm) Classification Hard Classification Aged Fresh
Milk Cow Producer Fermoy Natural Cheeses Producer Inagh Farmhouse Cheese
Classification Hard
Producer Mount Callan Farmhouse Cheese

GRoNiNGEN

waddenzee

BELGIUM Belgium has a long tradition of dairy FRiESlAND
farming and small-farm cheese production, but in the
Middle Ages, trading in silks and spices overshadowed DRENTHE
cheesemaking. Subsequently, milk and cream were more
often used for making butter and chocolate. However, NooRD-
the 1960s saw a return of the artisan cheesemakers, HollAND
and many traditional recipes were revived. The new era
is characterized by flavor and diversification, with an
increasing number of goat’s milk cheeses.

THE NETHERLANDS Cheese has been made in ovERijSSEl
The Netherlands since prehistoric times, but it was
the Romans who introduced hard cheeses, which FlEvolAND
would become Gouda and Edam. They also engineered
the dikes and canals that created the huge meadows GElDERlAND
underpinning the Dutch dairy industry.
uTRECHT
From the Middle Ages, Dutch cheese was traded in
domestic and foreign markets. Cheesemakers were THE NETHERlANDS
quick to incorporate newly discovered exotic spices
(such as cumin, caraway, and cloves) into their cheeses. ZuiD-
HollAND pRoDuCED THRouGHouT
ZEElAND
THE CouNTRy

Edam,
Geitenkaas Met Kruiden,
Gouda,
Kernham,
Leidse Kaas,
Maasdam,
Nagelkaas

NooRD-BRABANT

north sea ANTwERpEN

Bio Bleu, Postel

Pas de Rouge liMBuRG
wEST vlAANDEREN ooST-vlAANDEREN
liMBuRG

Rubens vlAAMS BRABANT

Keiems Bloempje

N Passendale BRuSSEl

BElGiuM Hervé
liÈGE
BRABANT wAlloN

HAiNAuT

NAMuR

Key Chimay à la Bière, luxEMBouRG
Vieux Chimay DiEkiRCH
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
luxEMBouRG
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region GREvEN-
MACHER
50 miles luxEMBouRG
50 km

belgium

Bio Bleu Chimay à la Bière Hervé

Made by the Hinkelspel dairy In 1850, a group of Cistercian monks Probably the most famous of Belgium’s BeLgIuM
cooperative (hinkelspel means started building Scourmont Abbey and cheeses, this is similar to Limburger
“hopscotch” in english). Bio Bleu’s established a herd of Friesian cows (see p236) and named after the town
slightly sticky rind is red-brown to make butter and, later, Trappist where it is made. washed repeatedly in
and covered in gray, blue, and some cheeses such as this one, which is brine over three months, the rind
white molds. washed in Chimay Trappist beer. becomes sticky and covered in orange-
TASTIng noTeS The pale yellow, creamy Today, the milk used comes from brown mold. It is sometimes flavored
interior has a mass of well-spread blue 250 producers in the region. with herbs or made with heavy cream.
streaks. It has an intense steely blue TASTIng noTeS The firm leathery rind TASTIng noTeS Its pale yellow interior is
tang, long-lasting and very peppery, has a heady aroma of hops and the springy and creamy. The flavor ranges
with an acidic bite and spicy overtones. farmyard, while the creamy, supple from surprisingly sweet and mellow to
How To enjoy Delicious with fall fruit interior is fruity, with a distinct taste of strong, spicy, and anything but mellow.
such as sweet grapes and Doyenné toasted hops continuing on the finish. How To enjoy Its pungency demands a
pears, or in a salad with chicory and How To enjoy This is a superb melting strong companion, so enjoy with dark
nuts. Pair with sweet white wines. cheese, or serve it simply, accompanied breads, and wash down with Belgian-
by a Belgian beer, ideally from Chimay. style Trappist beers and ales.

BELGIUM Oost-Vlaanderen BELGIUM Chimay, Hainaut BELGIUM Hervé, Liège 227
Age 8–10 weeks Age 4 weeks Age 3 months minimum
Weight and Shape 1¾lb–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 4½lb (2kg), wheel Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), brick
(800g–1kg), drum Size H. 2½in (6cm), D. 7½in (19cm) Size L. 2½in (6cm), W. 2½in (6cm),
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Classification Blue Producer Chimay Fromage Classification Semi-soft
Producer Coöperatieve Het Hinkelspel Producer Hervé Société

Keiems Bloempje Pas de Rouge Passendale

lOW COuNTRIES “Keiems” refers to a part of the city of The name Pas de Rouge refers to a hop This popular Flemish cheese, based on
Diksmuide, a region of lush meadows in Belgium’s version of the old school- an old monastic recipe, resembles a loaf
formed by the intricate system of dykes playground game of hopscotch. A of bread, with its distinctive caramel
and canals, or polders, while “Bloempje” washed-rind Trappist-style cheese, it is brown rind lightly dusted with white
is the Walloon for “flower” and refers to made with organic raw cow’s milk and mold. It is named after the village
the Penicillium candidum bloom that has a red-orange leathery rind that made infamous by the World War I
coats the cheese. Some types are develops a white mist of Penicillium Battle of Passendale.
flavoured with herbs and garlic. mould as it matures. TASTING NOTES Firm, yet pliable with
very small and irregular holes in it
TASTING NOTES Made from raw organic TASTING NOTES Supple and buttery, with pale yellow creamy interior has a
milk, it has a thick, creamy texture, small, scattered holes, Pas de Rouge buttery taste becoming more mellow
mushroom aroma, and fresh milky taste has a lightly farmyardy aroma and with age.
with a mushroom and green grass finish. overtones of hazelnut, with a meaty HOW TO ENJOY A stalwart of the
HOW TO ENJOY Try it grilled on bread or taste as it comes of age. continental breakfast buffet with cold
spread on crispbreads with a sweet HOW TO ENJOY Eat it like the locals: with hams and smoked meats and sausages.
homemade chutney; complement with brown bread, butter, and coffee or a Serve with light beers or white wines.
Chardonnay or a light beer. typically Belgian Trappist beer.

228 BELGIUM Diksmuide, West Viaanderen BELGIUM Gent, Oost Viaanderen BELGIUM Passendale, West Viaanderen
Age 4–8 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–6 months
Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) or 15½lb Weight and Shape 5½lb (2.5kg), round Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg), round
(7kg), round Size D. 8¾in (22cm), H. 2¾in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 3in (7cm)
Size D. 4¼in (11cm), H. 1½in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Classification Soft white Producer Coöperatieve Het Hinkelspel Producer Kaasmakerij Passendale
Producer Het Dischhof

Postel Rubens Vieux Chimay

An orange-rinded cheese handmade by This distinctive washed-rind cheese is Like Chimay à la Bière (see p227), this is BELGIum
the monks at the Abbey of Postel using named in honor of the 17th-century made at Scourmount Abbey. Annatto is
milk from their own herd of some 160 Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul added to the milk to give the finished
cows and others from near-by farms. Rubens. The recipe was revived in the cheese a warm tangerine color. With its
Needless to say, this cheese is not made 1960s and is now one of the most flattened ball shape and thin golden
in high volumes, but is much loved by popular of all the Belgian cheeses. brown crust, this makes it an attractive
those in the know. TASTING NOTES Beneath the reddish- addition to a cheeseboard.
TASTING NOTES Hard and quite dry with brown protective rind lies a firm yet TASTING NOTES Although this cheese is
a dark, earthy yellow color, Postel is supple paste with small holes. It has a described as hard, Vieux Chimay has a
a nutty-flavored cheese, with hints rich, smooth flavor, with a subtle soft, chewy melt-in-the-mouth texture.
of spices such as cloves and nutmeg, sweet-savory taste. The flavor is buttery with a hint of
becoming more intense with age. HOW TO ENJOY Like all semi-soft cheeses, hazelnuts and a distinct but pleasant
HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a bottle of Postel Rubens melts and bakes well, and it is bitterness to the finish.
beer, obviously. This is a good cheese easy to slice for snacks or breakfast. HOW TO ENJOY The makers recommend it
for grating, as a snack, or as a topping Try it with slices of fresh apple, and melted into a lobster risotto, and paired
baked potatoes. serve with cider or a light red wine. with a glass of Chimay Tripel beer.

BELGIUM Mol, Antwerpen BELGIUM West Viaanderen BELGIUM Chimay, Hainaut 229
Age 12–24 months Age 8–12 weeks Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 4kg, loaf Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg), oval Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg),
Size L. 10¾in (27cm), W. 5¼in (13cm), Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 41⁄2in (9cm) flattened ball
H. 4¼in (11cm) Milk Cow Size D. 6¾in (17cm), H. 4¼in (11cm)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Classification Hard Producer Various Classification Hard
Producer Abbey of Postel Producer Chimay Fromage

the netherlands

Low CoUNTries Edam Geitenkaas Met Kernhem
Kruiden
First mentioned in 1439, when edam A modern Dutch cheese, this is named
was shipped from the Port of edam, Cheese lovers visiting Amsterdam after the Kernhem estate, a mystical
just north of Amsterdam, and made should make time to visit one of the place where, according to legend a
with skimmed milk. its distinctive red amazing cheese shops. Less well-known white lady or ghost is regularly seen.
waxed coat is a familiar sight on deli hard goat’s cheeses such as this are Unlike most other Dutch cheeses,
counters the world over. The majority is definitely worth trying. The name Kernhem is made with added cream
exported, the Dutch preferring Gouda. means “Goat’s Cheese with Nettles”. and has a sticky orange rind from
TAsTiNG NoTes Beneath the thin rind it frequent washings in brine.
has a supple, smooth texture and sweet TAsTiNG NoTes supple like young Gouda, TAsTiNG NoTes Kernhem’s paste is soft
milky, buttery flavor, becoming more its stark white interior is scattered and gooey, with a pronounced farmyard
flavorsome and firmer with age. with flecks of chopped nettles; it has a aroma, a nutty, creamy flavor, and a
How To eNjoy A simple cheese, edam subtle almond flavor from the goat’s penetrating savory finish.
is equally at home as a snack, in milk and a slight grassy, earthy finish. How To eNjoy This is a cheese that cries
sandwiches, melted, grated, or served out for tangy pickles, cold meats, and a
at breakfast with chocolate and eggs, How To eNjoy Great as a snack or on a glass of white wine.
as they do in the Netherlands. cheeseboard, paired with a cool beer.

230 THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over
Age 1–12 months Age 3–6 months Age 5–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), ball Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg), Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg) flat round
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) boulder Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft
Producer Friesland Campina Classification Flavor-added Producer Friesland Campina
Producer Various

Leidse Kaas Maasdam Nagelkaas

Named after its town of origin, Leyden, A Swiss-style cheese was originally A traditional gouda-style cheese THE NETHErLANDS
Leidse Kaas’s rind is imprinted with created in the Netherlands as a less originally from Friesland, made with
crossed keys, the city’s emblem. Similar expensive alternative to Emmental, but cloves and cumin. As cloves resemble
to gouda, but made with semi-skimmed its sweet, fruity taste, large holes, and nails, they are called kruidnagels, or
milk, it is scattered with cumin seeds. bulging upper side proved very popular. “spicy nails”, and the cheese is known
Spices such as cumin, cloves, and Production continues to grow, with as “nail cheese”. its equivalent without
peppercorns were introduced in the leading brand Leerdammer now sold cloves is known as Kanterkaas.
1600s by early Dutch explorers. across the world. TASTiNg NoTES Despite being made from
TASTiNg NoTES The dense, compact TASTiNg NoTES Very supple and elastic skimmed milk with only a 23 percent
sunshine-yellow interior feels dry yet with large holes, its sweet, fermenting fat content, the cheese possesses a
creamy and mellow, perfectly balanced fruit flavor is a result of the special pronounced hot, spicy aromatic taste
by the aromatic cumin. bacteria added to the milk. and firm, creamy texture, and becomes
How To ENjoy Excellent with all drinks How To ENjoy A definite favorite for all a deep yellow with age.
ranging from beer to aromatic wines. it the family as a snacking cheese or in How To ENjoy A little goes a long way, so
also adds a pleasant spice-filled note to sandwiches, salads, and, fondue. Pair use sparingly in salads and hot dishes,
salads, soups, and vegetable dishes. with light fruity whites and rosé wines. and complement with beer.

THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over 231
Age 2–12 months Age 4–12 weeks Age 4–12 months
Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg),
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 6–8in boulder
Milk Cow (15–20cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Classification Flavor-added Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added
Producer Bel Leerdammer; Friesland Producer Friesland Campina
Campina

Gouda a closer look

The long-keeping properties of the Dutch cheeses, especially Gouda, The Netherlands produces 730,000
and the geographical position of Holland on the west coast of metric tons of cheese, of which
Europe meant, historically, the cheeses could be shipped to France 550,000 is exported. About 60 percent
and further afield. By the 12th century, their popularity had spread of Dutch cheese production is Gouda.
across Europe and later became an essential item on the
explorer’s shopping list when they took to the seas. Young Gouda has a
distinctive polished
LOW COUNTRIES Evidence of their importance can be The best are the Boerenkaas,
seen in the existence of the weigh- Farmhouse Gouda, made with raw yellow rind.
houses and formal markets in milk by small farmers when the
virtually every town, such as the weather permits the cattle to stay Young Cheese
beautifully restored example in outside and graze the fresh grasses
Gouda. Built in 1668, it was where of the polders, a remarkable
the farmers brought their cheeses to landscape of dykes and windmills.
be weighed and quality checked to
estimate their tax. Today, you can Over the centuries, other
find out your weight in cheese at the European countries have adopted
weekly markets in summer in the style of cheesemaking, notably
Gouda, Alkmaar, and Edam. Sweden and, in the last century,
Dutch immigrants in America,
What differentiates Gouda and Australia, and New Zealand have
Edam (see p230) from other cheeses started making farmhouse versions
is that some of the whey is replaced that meticulously retain the old
with hot water in the vat once the methods—although regulations
curd has been cut, a process known prevent most from using raw milk.
as washing the curd. This removes
lactose from the curd, producing a TasTinG noTes At only a few
sweeter, more mellow and slightly months old, Gouda is supple with a
more elastic curd. sweet, fruity taste becoming firmer
and fruitier, and by 18 months, the
232 interior, with its small holes, has
become deep yellow, hard, almost
brittle and granular. Each bite
reveals more of its complex
character, from fruity to a hint of
cocoa and groundnut, while the
feel in the mouth is rich and
smooth. Boerenkaas Gouda has
a more outspoken taste that
differs from farm to farm.

The fresco on the outside of the Gouda How To enjoy Young Gouda
weigh-house. is ideal for sandwiches, snacks,
and in salads, while the stronger
The Netherlands All over taste of aged Gouda lends itself to
Age 4 weeks–3 years the cheeseboard or cooked in hot
Weight and Shape 7oz–44lb dishes from gratins to tarts and
(200g–20kg), round pasta alongside a good Dutch beer or
Size Various robust red like Pinot Noir or Barolo.
Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various

washing the curd In order to wash adding Flavor The founding of the
the curd, some of the whey is drained off and Dutch East Indies Company in the 17th century
replaced by warm water, this is stirred in, and opened up the spice trade. The Dutch were
quick to utilize these new and aromatic flavors
again some of the whey, now diluted, is drained in their cheeses—particularly cumin, caraway,
off and replaced by more water. The water peppercorns, and cloves.

removes the lactose (milk sugars) from the curd.
When the water is hot, it scalds the curd and so

expels additional moisture. The result of this
activity is to keep the acidity of the curd at a
lower level than would normally be the case
since the activity of the lactic bacteria is reduced.

Aged Gouda, aged for a vertical Press The cheeses are THE NETHERLANDS
minimum of 18 months has removed from their molds and stacked in
vertical presses, separated by boards, and
a black waxed rind. lightly pressed for a few hours or even days.

With age, the exterior becomes hard,
dry, and a deep sunshine yellow.

Mature cheese

233

Germany, N Germany In the Alpine regions of
austria, and Bayern (Bavaria), cheesemaking was
switzerland influenced by the Swiss, and before them,
the Romans. Allgäu, the heart of German
SchlESWIG- cheesemaking, draws its inspiration
holSTEIN from the Swiss with its famous Allgäuer
Emmental, which was introduced to the
Schichtkäse area in 1821. An abundant supply of high-
quality milk allows Bayern to produce
MEcKlENBuRG- 75 percent of Germany’s cheeses, making
VoRPoMMERN it one of Germany’s most important milk
and cheese regions.
NIEDERSAchSEN GERMANY
Harzer Käse In the northern regions of Germany,
PRoDucED traditional cheeses are often fresh or
ThRouGhouT ThE BRANDENBuRG lactic-acidified milk products, as seen
couNTRY in The Netherlands and Denmark or
with Trappist cheeses. Although many
Tilsiterkäse cheeses are produced in Bayern, some of
Germany’s more famous cheeses, such as
NoRDRhEIN- SAchSEN-ANhAlT Altenburger Ziegenkäse, are produced in
WESTFAlEN Harzer Käse the northern parts of Germany.
austria Since the climate and pastures
Harzer Käse Altenburger SAchSEN in Western Austria (Vorarlberg and Tirol)
hESSEN Ziegenkäse ★ are similar to those in Switzerland, it
is no wonder that the border-sharing
RhEINlAND- ThÜRINGEN cheesemakers have been swapping recipes
PFAlZ Harzer Käse for centuries. In the east, the influence
came from the Balkans, which is why
SAARlAND BAYERN fresh-style cheeses are more prevalent.
Allgäuer Bergkäse, switzerland The great cheeses
Allgäuer Emmental, of Switzerland, famous throughout the
Limburger, world, can trace their history back to
Weisslacker before the coming of the Romans. The
first reference to cheesemaking was
made in 33bce, when the Rhaetians made
“cheese” for the long, hard winter. Records
show that by the Middle Ages, Swiss
cheeses were being traded across much
of Europe.

In modern times, despite much of
the production moving to large factories,
most Swiss cheeses are still made in
small dairies or cooperatives. This is due
to the primary objective of the Swiss
agricultural policy—maintaining the
landscape that characterizes Switzerland.

Tête de Moine★, BADEN-
Vacherin Mont d’Or ★ WÜRTTEMBERG

Tomme Vaudoise, Sbrinz★ Appenzeller Bavaria Blu Mondseer
Vacherin Fribourgeois★ Appenzeller St Severin

Gruyère ★ Sbrinz ★ Vorarlberger Bergkäse AuSTRIA
Tomme Vaudoise
Hobelkäse Sbrinz ★ Weinkäse,
Tiroler Graukäse
SWITZERlAND Sbrinz★ Tiroler Graukäse, Key
Schabziger Tiroler Graukäse, Chorherrenkäse
PRoDucED ThRouGhouT Valle Maggia Chorherrenkäse ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
ThE couNTRY lIEchENSTEIN
Produced only here
Mutschli, Produced throughout the region
Raclette
100 miles

Hobelkäse 100 km

germany

Allgäuer Bergkäse Allgäuer Emmental Altenburger GErMANY
Ziegenkäse PDO
Allgäu is known for its Swiss-style Allgäu cheeses use milk from the
cheeses, introduced in 1841 by two brown Allgäu cattle that graze the Sachsen and Thüringia in eastern
Swiss cheesemakers. Bergkäse, or spring meadows that are rich in Germany were home to this cheese.
mountain cheese, is like a little alpine flowers. Allgäuer Emmental Very little of it was produced until
Emmental (see pp242–243) with is based on the Swiss Emmental German reunification, but it is now
smaller holes and made in alpine huts (see pp242–243), but is smaller and available all over the country.
during late spring and summer. ripens more quickly.
TASTING NOTES Dense with small holes, TASTING NOTES Most is sold at around TASTING NOTES Soft and creamy, but
it has a sweet, buttery taste becoming three months old when it is supple, pure white in color, typical of goat
more intense and slightly salty. golden yellow, and mild with a hint cheese. It has a very pleasant, mild
HOW TO ENJOY This is perfect for a of hazelnut. flavor and a goaty finish that is not too
Bavarian Brotzeit, an afternoon meal HOW TO ENJOY For breakfast, snacks, pronounced. The interior is punctuated
accompanied with sausage slices, cheese-plates, and cooking. In Germany, with caraway seeds.
bacon, and dark bread. Enjoy with a thin slices are laid on or between white
fine Bavarian beer. bread slices. Typically served with tea, HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for cheeseboards,
coffee, or beer. salads, or drizzled with sweet mustard
to bring out the flavor. Enjoy it with a
liqueur or a light white wine.

GERMANY Bayern GERMANY Bayern GERMANY Sachsen and Thüringia 235
Age 3–6 months Age 3–6 months Age 4 weeks
Weight and Shape 55lb 2oz (25kg), wheel Weight and Shape 176lb 6oz (80kg), Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz
Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 4in (10cm) wheel (300–500g), round
Milk Cow Size D. 351⁄2in (90cm), H. 431⁄2in (110cm) Size Various, D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Classification Hard Milk Cow (pictured)
Producer Various Classification Hard Milk Goat with some cow
Producer Various Classification Soft white
Producer Altenburger Land

Bavaria Blu Harzer Käse Limburger

G e R M a n y, au s T R i a , s W i T z e R L a n d With a thick white coat and made with This has been made for centuries from This washed-rind cheese was originally
extra cream, Bavaria Blu is a fusion of “soured” skimmed milk on small farms made in Belgium’s Limbourg region. it
Camembert and Gorgonzola. The blue throughout the country; in Germany, became so popular that, since 1830, the
mold is injected into the young cheese, butter was always more important majority of it has been made in Germany,
a technique developed in Germany in than cheese. Best known are harzer, mostly in the allgäu from the excellent
the 1970s. Bavaria Blu is often referred along with olmützer Quargel local milk.
to as the blue cheese for people who (pictured), handkäse, and Mainzer. TasTinG noTes its sticky orange-brown
don’t like blue cheese! TasTinG noTes several of these “coins” rind and intense farmyardy smell
TasTinG noTes Considerably milder than are assembled into a roll, and are then comes from being washed in special
Gorgonzola or Camembert, it has a separated for eating. When fresh, the bacteria. The taste is significantly
very rich, creamy taste and subtle spicy paste is lemony sharp, but at about milder, but still farmyardy and meaty.
blue finish. The blue splodges through three weeks it becomes mellower. hoW To enjoy served as “Brotzeit”,
the interior make it very appealing. hoW To enjoy Mixed with vinegar, salt, afternoon tea with boiled potatoes and
hoW To enjoy served on most German and onion, it is called “hand cheese with butter, or with vinaigrette and slices of
cheeseboards with a white Rhine wine music”. With dark German bread and onion, dark bread, and beer or cider.
such as Riesling and a nutty bread. cider, it is a satisfying afternoon meal.

236 GERMANY Allgäu, Bayern GERMANY The Harz mountain range GERMANY Bayern
Age 4–6 weeks (Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt, Age 6–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round and Thüringen) Weight and Shape 5oz (150g), brick
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (7cm) Age 2–4 weeks Size L. 5in (12cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm), H. 1in
Milk Cow Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), log (3.5cm)
Classification Blue Size Various, D. 2in (5cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Milk Cow
Producer Käserei Champignon (pictured) Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow Producer Various
Classification Fresh
Producer Various

Schichtkäse Tilsiterkäse Weisslacker

a very old recipe using skimmed milk, Named after the town of Tilsit, now invented in 1874, weisslacker means GeRMaNy
made in northern parts of Germany, Sowjetsk in Russia, it was apparently “white lacquer cheese”, and it is so
it is a lactic cheese, which curdles created by Dutch immigrants in the named because of its shiny, glass-like
without rennet. Similar to quark, but mid-nineteenth century, trying to white rind, the result of being soaked
dryer, it is made of layers of curd—the recreate their famous Gouda. Brick- in brine and is not unlike feta. This
top and bottom layers from skimmed shaped, it can be waxed or made with cheese is also known as Bayerische
milk; the middle layer from whole milk. added cream, herbs, pepper, or caraway Bierkäse (Bavarian beer cheese), as it
TaSTiNG NoTeS an acquired taste, it is seeds. Swiss Tilsit is round and firmer, goes extremely well with this brew.
vaguely aromatic and tart, with a with pea-sized holes. TaSTiNG NoTeS after two days in brine,
texture similar to cottage cheese. The TaSTiNG NoTeS Butter-yellow, springy, it is crumbly and has a surprisingly
middle layer of the cheese looks more and sliceable, with many uneven slits, strong smell and tang, with a salty bite.
yellow because it is higher in fat. it ranges in flavor from mild and how To eNjoy Cut into chunks and
how To eNjoy Suitable for breakfast in sweet-savory to strong and meaty. serve with Bretzels (chewy pretzels),
place of quark or yogurt. Spread on a how To eNjoy ideal for breakfast, vinaigrette, and a lot of onions. This is
slice of dark bread as a snack. it also sandwiches, and snacks along with a a hearty meal best washed down with
goes perfectly with tea or coffee. beer, Riesling, Sylvaner, or fruity red. a lot of beer. also used in Maultaschen.

GERMANY Schleswig-Holstein GERMANY All over GERMANY Bayern 237
Age A few days Age 12–18 weeks Age 3–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 81⁄2lb (4kg), brick Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb
(100–500g), packets or pots Size L. 12in (30cm), W. 6in (15cm), H. 6in (500g–1kg), brick
Size Various (15cm (pictured)) Size L. 4–5in (10–12cm), W. 4–5in
Milk Cow Milk Cow (10–12cm), H. 21⁄2–4in (6–10cm)
Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Producer Various Producers Various Classification Fresh
Producer Various

austria

Chorherrenkäse Mondseer St. Severin

g e r M A n y, AU s T r i A , s w i T Z e r L A n d A special recipe that combines fresh First made in salzburg in 1830, this is in 1920, Friar Leonhard brought the
milk and sometimes buttermilk makes named after the monastery of Mondsee. recipe for this cheese to the monastery
for an innovative cheese also known as Also known as schachtelkäse, its recipe of schlierbach in Upper Austria, and
Prälatenkäse. Traditionally made in is based on the Trappist-style washed- named the cheese after st. severin,
a Tyrolean dairy, Chorherrenkäse is rind cheese brought to Austria by the protector against famine. it is a little
dipped in white wax and is based on Cistercian monks. it has a thin orange round soft cheese with a yellow to
monastery or Trappist-style cheeses. rind dusted with white mold. orange washed rind similar to Munster.

TAsTing noTes The combination of TAsTing noTes The paste is a light yellow TAsTing noTes The smooth bright yellow
buttermilk and fresh milk gives a and has a sweet-sour flavor with a hint paste has a hearty, full-bodied taste.
pleasant flavor and a smooth texture of flowery grass; as it ages, the flavor The aroma, typical of Trappist cheeses,
reminiscent of a warm summer day becomes more hearty and the texture is farmyardy and strong.
with a hint of meadow flowers. supple and soft. how To enjoy great on a cheeseboard
how To enjoy A pleasant, undemanding how To enjoy A fine cheese for many with crispy bread for an afternoon
cheese for the cheeseboard, or sliced for occasions: breakfast with tea, a light snack. Complement with a red
breakfast or as part of a buffet. ideal meal, or on a cheeseboard, accompanied Zinfandel, Merlot, or Pinot noir, or a
with a local grüner Veltliner wine. by a grüner Veltliner wine. full-bodied white wine.

238 AUSTRIA Tirol AUSTRIA Oberösterreich AUSTRIA Salzburg
Age 4–6 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g), loaf Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), round
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 7in (18cm) (500g–1kg), round Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Cow Size D. 5–10in (12–25cm), H. 2–31⁄2in Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft (5–9cm) Classification Semi-soft
Producer Bergland Voitsberg Milk Cow Producer Stift Schlierbach
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various

Tiroler Graukäse Vorarlberger Bergkäse Weinkäse

Made with skimmed milk and soured The Vorarlberg mountains overshadow First made in Leibnitz, in a dairy near ausTria
naturally using a lactic starter, rather Lake Constance. Their high pastures the slovenian border when by chance
than rennet, this Tyrolean cheese is carpeted with wild flowers and grasses the new cheese, temporarily stored in
pressed, then milled and pressed again. provide superb grazing for the cattle a nearby wine cellar, absorbed the
The surface of the thin rind develops during the summer months, producing wonderful aromas, and weinkäse was
blue-gray to green-gray molds. rich, flavorsome, milk to make this born. Today it is made in nearby enns
TasTing noTes in the first few days, it is Bergkäse, or mountain, cheese. valley and washed with red wine,
curdlike and crumbly, but left at room TasTing noTes The rind is thick and the creating an almost black rind dusted
temperature for a few days it ripens paste supple, with cherry-sizes holes, with white mold.
and becomes smooth, softer, and almost and the grazing gives the cheese its TasTing noTes after six weeks, it has
runny. The taste is lemony fresh. buttery yellow color and subtle taste of a fermenting fruit, slightly lemony tang
how To enjoy in Tirol, it is served with wild honey with a savory, salty and a hint of the Zweigelt wine,
vinegar, pumpkin seed oil, and onion undercurrent with age. balanced by a smooth, tender texture.
rings. The styrian version is typically how To enjoy Vorarlberger is equally at how To enjoy eye-catching cheeseboard
grated over flat cake on buttered bread. home as a snack, in a fondue, or grilled, addition with crusty bread. Pair with a
Try with salads and sautéed potatoes. complemented by a fruity Chardonnay. red Zweigelt wine from styrian country.

AUSTRIA Tirol and Steiermark AUSTRIA Vorarlberg AUSTRIA Steiermark 239
Age 4 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 6–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), block Weight and Shape 110lb (50kg), wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round
Size L. 6in (15cm), W. 6in (15cm), Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm)
H. 6in (15cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Schärdinger Group
Producer Various

switzerland

Appenzeller Gruyère AOC Hobelkäse

g e r M a n y, au S t r i a , S w i t z e r L a n D Made in the hilly pre-alps of Switzerland’s most popular cheese is Made in the Bernese oberland and
Switzerland for more than 700 years, named after the picturesque village of Valais, where each summer the cows go
this cheese has a brown-orange gruyère, near Fribourg, and can trace to graze in the mountain pastures, and
aromatic rind from washing with a its history back to 1072. the best are the farmers, each with a few cows, pool
secret blend of cider, white wine, herbs, made in the mountains in summer when milk to make cheese. in fall, they
and spices. Some are soaked for two the cows graze the alpine pastures. return home and share out the cheeses
months in brine creating a suppler taSting noteS at 4 months, it is firm at the annual “Chästeilet”, a major
interior and strong, rich flavor. and dense with a nutty flavor. event for the farmers and tourists.
taSting noteS at six months, it has at 8 months, it has a wonderful taSting noteS Cut in paper-thin slices
nutty notes and a distinct spicy finish, complexity that is rich, strong, nutty, with a cheese-rake, hobelkäse reveals
but develops a more intense flavor and earthy. the exquisite aroma of the flowery
with age. how to enjoy the essential ingredient meadows captured in the milk.
how to enjoy Popular for breakfast for fondue. grate over pasta, salads, or how to enjoy traditionally thinly sliced
when young, or the cheeseboard when vegetables, or into sauces. Serve with and rolled, and served with a prickling
aged, with crusty bread, cider, beer, or walnuts, fruity bread, and a Dole or white wine from the Lake geneva
a racy red wine such as Dole or Fitou. Burgundy red wine. vineyards as an apéritif.

240 SWITZERLAND Appenzell Ausserrhoden, SWITZERLAND Fribourg SWITZERLAND Bern and Valais
Appenzell Innerrhoden, Sankt Gallen, and Thurgau Age From 12 months Age 18 months
Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 66–88lb (30–40kg), Weight 17lb 10oz–22lb (8–10kg), wheel
Weight and Shape 13¼lb–17lb 10oz wheel (pictured)
(6–8kg), wheel Size D. 27½in (70cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 6in (15cm) (pictured)
Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 5in (12cm) (pictured) (pictured) Milk Cow
Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Hard
Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Various
Producer Various Producer Various

Mutschli Raclette Sbrinz AOC

Produced in most regions of the The name originates from the French Sbrinz today is not very different from SwiTzeRland
country from milk surplus in the word racler, meaning “to scrape”, and the one described by the Roman writer
village dairies, using cow’s, goat’s, or relates to the process of broiling the Pliny in 70 b.c. as “Caseus helveticus”,
occasionally ewe’s milk. Significantly cheese, traditionally in front of an open or “Swiss cheese”. although it is very
smaller than most Swiss cheeses, it fire, and scraping it onto bowls of hard, it is less crumbly than
comes in various shapes and sizes. piping hot potato. To meet demand, it is Parmigiano-Reggiano (see pp130–131)
TaSTinG nOTeS Beneath the washed now made throughout Switzerland. because it is made with full-fat milk.
yellow to brown rind is a soft, mild Raw milk cheeses from the valleys are TaSTinG nOTeS Very hard and grainy, it
paste, with few or no holes, and a light stamped with their origin – such as has a distinct aroma from the flowery
yellow color. Mutschli is a pleasant Bagnes, Orsières, and Goms. meadows, with spicy, slightly salty
cheese and a children’s favorite. TaSTinG nOTeS a leathery washed brown undercurrents.
hOw TO enjOy in Central Switzerland, rind encases a smooth, supple paste hOw TO enjOy Superb grated into pasta
Mutschli is typically fried in a pan and with a rich, fruity savory flavor. and soups, or serve accompanied by a
served with boiled potatoes, similar to hOw TO enjOy eaten grilled and topping fruity Swiss or Burgundy red or white
raclette. Otherwise it is eaten mostly as potatoes, with pickled cucumbers and wine, or Champagne, as an apéritif.
part of breakfast or as a snack. onions, and a local white or red wine.

SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND Luzern, Obwalden, and 241
Age 5 weeks Age 6 months Unterwalden
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 13¼lb (6kg), wheel Age 18–48 months
(pictured) Size D. 18in (45cm), H. 4in (10cm) Weight 66–88lb (30–40kg), wheel
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Size D. 15½in (40cm), H. 12in (30cm)
Milk Cow, goat, or ewe Classification Semi-soft (pictured)
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Hard
Producer Various

emmentaler a closer look

One of the great classics of the cheese world, Emmental can trace About 265 gallons (1,000 liters) of
its history back to 1293 but was first mentioned by name in 1542 milk is needed for one cheese. As a
when the recipe was given to the people of Langehthal in the result, like all the big mountain
Emme valley. cheeses of Europe, they are made by
cooperatives rather than individuals.

G E r M A n y, Au S T r I A , S W I T z E r L A n d At the beginning of each summer, meadows abundant with wild rind The distinctive, repeating pattern on the
farmers would take their small herds flowers, grasses, and herbs. It is this rind guarantees authenticity to the consumer.
to the summer pastures, known as that makes Swiss Emmental unique
alpage. Far from the nearest and unable to be emulated despite
markets, they needed to make a many copies the world over. Over
cheese that required months to winter, the cattle are housed in
mature, so they pooled their milk, barns. Fed a diet of hay, the milk is
creating huge slow-ripening cheeses, more concentrated and intense but
which could ripen in the chalets until the color is a paler yellow and the
the cows returned to the valleys at cheeses often smaller.
the beginning of fall.
TasTing noTes When first cut, a
Little has changed since then perfume like a million meadow flowers
except Emmental is now made all is released. If you squeeze a small
over Switzerland where there are piece, you can feel its supple texture
high pastures, and takes place in and, as it warms, you can taste the
mountain chalets or small owner- hushed tones of the alpine meadows,
operated cooperatives. Hence, as you the sweetness of ripe, fermenting
travel through the magnificent Alps, fruit, and herbaceous white wine
you can still see the timber-built that tingles on the palate. If you
chalets with their colorful flower find one that has a tiny “tear” of
boxes, wooden balconies and tiny moisture trapped in the holes, it
windows, and the peaceful cows with will be as near to perfect as you
their hand-painted bells grazing will find.

242 how To enjoy Great for The texture is more elastic
snacking, sandwiches, for than Gruyère (see p240),
cattle grazing in the summer alpage. breakfast, and on a cheeseboard, which has no holes.
but comes into its own in a fondue
SWITZERLAND Central cantons where it is rich, creamy, and
Age 4–18 months wonderfully stretchy while its
Weight and Shape 165–220lb sweet, nutty nature is underlined.
(75–100kg), wheel Its stringy texture when cooked
Size D. 311⁄2–39in (80–100cm), means, unlike most hard cheese, it
H. 6–101⁄2in (16–27cm) does not break down in sauces but
Milk Cow lends itself to being grated or melted,
Classification Hard especially in a Croque Monsieur.
Producer Various
With its immense flavor and firm
texture, Emmental can be served with
big red or white wines or even a crisp,
fruity white Swiss wine.

cutting the curd the milk is kneading and pressing the grading after 6–12 months, a grader
warmed in a large vat, traditionally a huge curd is kneaded so it fills the hoop and is put using a special hammer like a piano tuner’s
copper kettle, and three different starter into a press. it is then turned and the diameter will tap each cheese and, from the resonance or
cultures are stirred into the milk. the curd is of the hoop reduced. the process is repeated six echo, can ascertain the size, distribution, and
cut with wires strung in a giant frame. in the or more times. even shape of the holes and therefore its
traditional hemispherical vats, a “figure-eight” quality. the best are stamped in red with the
motion is required to cut the curd evenly into alpine horn blower (common to all swiss
rice-sized pieces. cheeses) and the words switzerland and
emmental. the sides are branded with a
unique identification number for traceability.

Quarter wheel

switzerland

243

The propionic bacteria present
during maturation gives off bubbles
of carbon dioxide, and, unable to
escape, these create the small holes
characteristic of the cheese.

Schabziger Tête de Moine AOC Tomme Vaudoise

GErMANY, AUSTrIA, SWITzErLAND This unique and very distinctive First made in the twelfth century by Made in the French-speaking part of
lime-green zero-fat cheese has been monks at Bellelay monastery, its Switzerland, this has a thin, wrinkled
made since the 11th century, when the production then shifted to farms owned rind dusted with white mold. The raw
local monks introduced fenugreek. by the monastery, when the cheese was cow’s milk cheese Tomme Fleurette
Skimmed-milk curds are aged for a few given to the Church as a tithe. Originally develops reddish brown patches that
weeks, then finely ground and mixed named Bellelay after the monastery, it break down the curd until it becomes
with ground fenugreek and wild clover. was renamed “head of the monks”, in almost liquid. Goat’s milk cheeses are
TASTING NOTES Pressed into a small, recognition of enthusiastic consumption. sold as Tomme de Chèvre.
truncated cone, it has a powerful, racy, TASTING NOTES Dense, smooth, and TASTING NOTES Vaudoise is mild and
almost eye-watering spicy tang as it yellow as the result of meadow flowers, creamy with a hint of mushrooms from
melts in the mouth. it has a buttery, slightly savory taste, the rind, while Fleurette has a more
HOW TO ENJOY Mix 50:50 with butter, and revealed when pared into rosettes with intense, rustic flavor as it softens.
spread over crusty white bread with the specially invented girolle machine. HOW TO ENJOY Great with crispy bread,
onions or fresh chives. It spices up baked HOW TO ENJOY Using the girolle, guests especially caraway or walnut, and a
potatoes, fondues, and soups. Cider or create rosettes, and enjoy with a Lake Vully or Chablis, or dip in breadcrumbs
Pinot Noir work well as partners. Geneva white and fresh walnuts. and lightly fry, and serve with salad.

244 SWITZERLAND Glarus SWITZERLAND Jura SWITERLAND Vaud and Fribourg
Age 8 weeks Age 8 months Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 3½oz (100g), truncated Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–1¾lb Weight and Shape 3½–5oz (100–150g),
cone (600–800g), cylinder disc
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 7in (18cm) Size: D. 6in (16cm), 1in (3cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow or goat
Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Soft white
Producer Geska Producer Various Producer Various

Vacherin Fribourgeois Vacherin Mont D’or Valle Maggia SWITzErlAND
AOC AOC
Produced in villages in the valley of
Vacherin Fribourgeois, not to be This is produced from September until Maggia on the southern side of the
confused with Vacherin Mont d’Or, is a March, when the cows come down from Swiss alps, all the cheeses are round
dense, deep yellow cheese. Produced in the mountains to spend winter in the and covered with a thick gray mold.
the canton of Fribourg, it first came to warm barns of individual farmers. In They are named after the particular
fame in 1448, when it was served to the the summer, their milk is combined to valley in which they are produced:
daughter of the Scottish king and wife make huge wheels of Gruyère. Verzasca, Piora, Bedretto, etc.
of the Duke Sigismund of Austria. TASTING NOTES The ivory paste has tiny
TASTING NOTES Encircled with aromatic little holes and a smooth, buttery taste.
TASTING NOTES Supple and nutty, it has a spruce bark, the almost liquid interior There is also sometimes a subtle
long, tender aftertaste of alpine flowers hints of farmyards, meadow flowers, fragrance of the smoke that drifts into
and freshly cut hay. Its flavors intensify and white wine, with a woody tang. the storeroom from the farmer’s fire.
when the cheese is melted. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect sustenance for
HOW TO ENJOY Spoon direct from the box, walking and hiking, enjoyed with dried
HOW TO ENJOY At its best in fondue au or make a little hole in the rind, pour pork or venison sausage, particularly
vacherin, made with three vacherins of in some white wine, and put the whole with the local Merlot wine.
different ages—like the best-ever box in the oven at 425°F (220°C) for 30
cheese soup. Pair with Pinot Noir. minutes. Serve with a dry white.

SWITZERLAND Fribourg SWITZERLAND Vaud SWITZERLAND Ticino 245
Age 9 weeks–6 months Age 6–10 weeks Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 13¼lb–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and 2¼lb Weight and Shape 13¼lb–17lb 10oz
(6–8kg), wheel (1kg), round (6–8kg), round
Size D. 18in (45cm), H. 4½in (11cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 15½in (40cm), H. 5in (12cm)
(pictured) Milk Cow (pictured)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow; sometimes mixed with goat or ewe
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various

scandinavia N

Scandinavia encompasses Denmark, Norway, 100 miles
Sweden, and Finland, and is known for its long, 100 km
dark winter days and all-day summer sunlight.
As a result of being isolated for much of the FINLAND
year and having short grazing times, farmers
found it essential to preserve their most ProDuCED ThroughouT
precious source of protein, often in the ThE CouNTry
form of whey cheese. In Lapland, the
far-north region of Scandinavia, the Juustoleipä,
milk of the hardy reindeer is still used to Oltermanni,
make cheese, and the exceptionally rich milk Turunmaa
produces cheese with an earthy, gamey flavor.
dEnMaRK Denmark, the most southern of the
Key Scandinavian countries, has a milder maritime climate
and flat meadows that are home to comfort-loving cows.
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Denmark has a thriving dairy industry, with cheeses
exported around the world.
Produced only here nORWaY With the exception of a long, narrow strip of
Produced throughout the region grazing land bordering the sea, Norway is made up of
forests, rugged mountains, and the Tundra in the north,
Ridder SWEDEN which is why goats, rather than cows, prevailed.
sWEdEn Sweden’s well-established dairy industry
ProDuCED ThroughouT dates back to the 9th century when Benedictine monks,
ThE CouNTry who were sent to convert the war-mongering Vikings to a
more peaceful way of life, introduced cheesemaking.
Ädelost, FinLand Finland, which has one-third of its landmass
Grevéost, in the Arctic Circle, has a thriving dairy industry that
Herrgärdsost, features many European-style cheeses, as well as its own
Hushällsost, unique reindeer cheese (Juustoleipä) that is toasted in
Mesost, front of the fire.
Prästost,
Västerbottenost

Gammelost NorWAy

ProDuCED ThroughouT
ThE CouNTry

Jarlsberg,
Nökkelost

Gjetost

DENmArk Esrom ★
ProDuCED Samsø
ThroughouT
ThE CouNTry
Bla Castello,
Danablu
Danbo
Havarti

denmark

Bla Castello Danablu Danbo

Developed in the 1960s to meet Invented in the early 20th century This milder version of samsø (see p248) DenMarK
demand for mild creamy blue cheese, as an alternative to the imported is one of Denmark’s most popular
Bla Castello, also known as Blue French blues, and is now available cheeses, and is made with semi-skim
Castello, has a unique rind that can worldwide. Danablu, also known as milk. The smooth, barely formed yellow
develop a combination of red and Danish Blue, is one of the most popular rind is often covered in red or orange
blue-green molds. cheeses in Denmark. wax. It is also known as King Christian
TasTIng noTes This rich and buttery TasTIng noTes This mature blue has deep or Christian IX in the United states.
cheese has a Brie-like texture, mild purple-blue streaks, a smooth yet TasTIng noTes It is pale, with a pleasant
spicy accents of blue veins, an aroma crumbly, moist texture, and a full flavor aroma. The pliable interior is spattered
that hints of mushrooms, and a flavor that is fresh with a sharp, salty, almost with small holes, and the taste is
that develops steadily but never metallic blue bite and creamy finish. slightly sweet and nutty.
becomes too strong.
How To enjoy Ideal for younger palates, How To enjoy a cheeseboard stalwart, How To enjoy This breakfast cheese is
and eats well on bread and, of course, pairs well with grapes, apples, or also great for sandwiches and for general
Danish crisp-bread. Matches well with tomatoes, or try it with olives and snacking. It partners well with dark
Danish beer. pickles. It needs a slightly sweet wine breads such as Pumpernickel, and beers,
or hoppy ale to offset its salty tang. apple juice, and ciders.

DENMARK All over DENMARK All over DENMARK All over 247
Age 8–10 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 6–12 months
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), half Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), drum or Weight and Shape Various
moon, and 21⁄4lb (1.6kg), round block Size Various
Size D. 41⁄2in (11.5cm) and 8in (20cm), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow
H. 2in (5.5cm) and 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Various
Classification Blue Producer Rosenborg
Producer Tholstrup

Esrom PGI Havarti Samsø

S C a n D I n aV I a First made by Cistercian monks in the Probably Denmark’s most famous this semi-soft cheese was created in the
12th century, this was reintroduced by cheese, havarti was invented in the early 19th century when the king of
the Danish Cheese Institute in 1951. mid-1800s by hanne neilsen, who was Denmark invited Swiss cheesemakers
Formerly named “Danish Port Salut,” it the wife of a farmer from new Zealand. to share their skills with Danish
was renamed “Esrom” after the ancient She traveled through Europe to learn farmers. a pale elastic-textured cheese
abbey in which it was first made. Esrom cheesemaking and invented this with irregular-shaped holes based on
was granted PGI status in 1996. cheese—a masterpiece with its added Emmental was the result. It is named
taStInG notES Pale lemon with small cream. It was originally named after the Danish island of Samsø, a
holes, Esrom is sweet and buttery; it “havarthi,” after her farm. traditional Viking meeting place.
becomes more pungent with age, while taStInG notES Sweet, mellow, and very taStInG notES Mild, and buttery when
still retaining its sweetness. Some creamy, it has a buttery aroma that young, as it ages, Samsø develops a
styles are made with garlic or pepper. becomes sharper and saltier with hints sweet-sour pungency, and distinct
how to Enjoy It is ideal in a traditional of hazelnut. Some contain caraway seeds. hazelnut flavors.
Danish open sandwich, or eaten with how to Enjoy a great snacking cheese, how to Enjoy Perfect for a fondue,
cold cuts of hams and charcuterie. it is ideal for Danish open sandwiches, melted on top of grilled potatoes, or
slicing and broiling, or adding to salads. sliced on a chunk of rye bread.

248 DENMARK Hovedstaden DENMARK All over DENMARK Samsø, Mitjylland
Age 21–28 days Age 4–12 weeks Age 8–12 weeks.
Weight and Shape 7oz–4½lb (200g–2kg), Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg), blocks Weight and Shape Various
brick or drums Size Various
Size Various, L. 8½in (22cm), W. 5in (12cm), Size Various, L. 4½in (11cm), W. 2½in Milk Cow
H. 2½in (6cm) (pictured) (6cm), H. 2in (5cm) (pictured) Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various