Lonely Planet Iceland

PDF

Iceland

PDF ebook

Edition 10th Edition
Release Date May 2017
Pages 424

Useful Links

Want more guides?
Head to our shop
Trouble with your PDF?
Trouble shoot here
Need more help?
Head to our FAQs
Stay in touch
Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to
ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
PLAN YOUR TRIP
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Your planning tool kit
Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating
you create the perfect trip.
2 Activities 6 Drinking
ON THE ROAD
C Courses 3 Entertainment
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use T Tours 7 Shopping
maps & insider tips.
z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
UNDERSTAND
& Events
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, to All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
make sense of what you see. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
SURVIVAL GUIDE range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information These symbols and abbreviations give vital
for a smooth trip. information for each listing:

Must-visit recommendation

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Iceland

The Westfjords North Iceland
p196 p221

West The Highlands East
Iceland p338 Iceland

p170 p285

Reykjavík Southwest Iceland Southeast
p52 & the Golden Circle Iceland
p311
p100

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Carolyn Bain, Alexis Averbuck

PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP

MARION FARIA PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES © Welcome to Iceland. . . . . . 4 REYKJAVÍK. . . . . . . . . 52 Upper Borgarfjörður . . . . . 178
Iceland Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
JAKKREETHAMPITAKKULL/GETTY IMAGES © Iceland’s Top 14 . . . . . . . . . 8 Greater Reykjavík. . . . . . . 98 Snæfellsnes Peninsula. . . 181
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 Stykkishólmur . . . . . . . . . . 181
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 20 SOUTHWEST ICELAND Grundarfjörður. . . . . . . . . . 186
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 21 & THE GOLDEN Ólafsvík . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 24 CIRCLE. . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Rif. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Hellissandur . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Ring Road Planner. . . . . . 36 Reykjanes Peninsula. . . . 101 Snæfellsjökull National
Outdoor Adventures. . . . . 38 Blue Lagoon . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 48 Keflavík & Njarðvík Southern Snæfellsnes. . . . 191
(Reykjanesbær) . . . . . . . . . 105
HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA P59 Grindavík. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Dalir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Reykjanesfólkvangur Eiríksstaðir . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
JÖKULSÁRLÓN P327 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Búðardalur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Hjarðarholt & Around . . . . 195
The Golden Circle. . . . . . 111 Laugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Þingvellir National Park . . 111
Laugarvatn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 THE WESTFJORDS. . . . 196
Geysir. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Gullfoss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 South Coast . . . . . . . . . . 197
Reykhólar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
The South . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Flókalundur. . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Hveragerði & Around. . . . . 120 Brjánslækur. . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Þorlákshöfn. . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Eyrarbakki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Southwest P­ eninsulas. . 200
Stokkseyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Látrabjarg Peninsula. . . . 200
Flóahreppur. . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Patreksfjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 201
Selfoss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Tálknafjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 203
Western Þjórsárdalur. . . . . 128 Bíldudalur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Eastern Þjórsárdalur. . . . . 134
Hella & Around. . . . . . . . . . 136 Central Peninsulas. . . . 204
Hvolsvöllur & Around. . . . . 138 Þingeyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Skógar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Dýrafjörður . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Landmannalaugar . . . . . . . 146 Önundarfjörður. . . . . . . . . 205
Laugavegurinn Hike . . . . . 148 Flateyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Þórsmörk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152. Suðureyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Vík. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Ísafjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Bolungarvík. . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Vestmannaeyjar . . . . . . . 163 Ísafjarðardjúp. . . . . . . . . . . 212
Heimaey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Hornstrandir. . . . . . . . . . 214
WEST ICELAND. . . . . 170
Strandir Coast . . . . . . . . 217
Hvalfjörður . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Hólmavík. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Akranes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Drangsnes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Bjarnarfjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 219
Borgarbyggð. . . . . . . . . . 171 Reykjarfjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 219
Borgarnes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Norðurfjörður. . . . . . . . . . 220

Contents

UNDERSTAND

NORTH ICELAND. . . . 221 Langanes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Iceland Today . . . . . . . . . 352
Vopnafjörður & Around. . 283 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
Eastern Húnaflói. . . . . . . 224 Natural Wonders. . . . . . . 364
Hrútafjörður . . . . . . . . . . . 224 EAST ICELAND. . . . . 285 Icelandic Culture . . . . . . 371
Hvammstangi. . . . . . . . . . 224 Icelandic Attitudes. . . . . 377
Vatnsnes Peninsula. . . . . 225 Inland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Icelandic Cuisine . . . . . . 382
Blönduós. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Egilsstaðir. . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Lagarfljót. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 SURVIVAL
Western Skagafjörður. . . 226 Eastern Highlands. . . . . . 294 GUIDE
Varmahlíð . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Öxnadalur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 The Eastfjords. . . . . . . . . 295 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 388
Sauðárkrókur . . . . . . . . . . 228 Borgarfjörður Eystri. . . . . 295 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . 400
Seyðisfjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 297 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
Tröllaskagi. . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Mjóifjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413
Hólar í Hjaltadalur. . . . . . . 231 Reyðarfjörður. . . . . . . . . . 302 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 423
Hofsós . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Eskifjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Siglufjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Neskaupstaður. . . . . . . . . 304 SPECIAL FEATURES
Ólafsfjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Fáskrúðsfjörður . . . . . . . . 306
Dalvík. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Stöðvarfjörður . . . . . . . . . 306 Ring Road Planner. . . . . . 36
Wildlife Watching. . . . . . 130
Akureyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 The Ring Road: The Northern Lights . . . 156
Goðafoss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Breiðdalsheiði to Winter Travel. . . . . . . . . . 234
Djúpivogur. . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Hot-Pot Hop Itinerary. . . 236
Mývatn Region . . . . . . . . 259 Breiðdalur. . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Fire & Ice. . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Reykjahlíð . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Breiðdalsvík. . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Eastern Mývatn . . . . . . . . 265 Berufjörður. . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Southern Mývatn. . . . . . . 266 Djúpivogur. . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Western Mývatn. . . . . . . . 267
Northern Mývatn. . . . . . . 268 SOUTHEAST
Krafla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 ICELAND . . . . . . . . . . 311

Mývatn to Egilsstaðir Kirkjubæjarklaustur. . . . . . 314
(Ring Road). . . . . . . . . . . 270 Lakagígar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Möðrudalur & Around. . . 270 The Sandar. . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Skaftafell (Vatnajökull
Húsavík . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 National Park – South). . . 319
Húsavík to Ásbyrgi. . . . . . 276 Jökulsárlón. . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Höfn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Jökulsárgljúfur Höfn to Djúpivogur . . . . . 336
(Vatnajökull National
Park – North). . . . . . . . . 276 THE HIGHLANDS. . . 338
Ásbyrgi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Vesturdalur. . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Kjölur Route . . . . . . . . . . . 339
Dettifoss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Sprengisandur Route . . . 344
Askja Route. . . . . . . . . . . . 346
Northeast Circuit. . . . . 280 Kverkfjöll Route . . . . . . . . 349
Kópasker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Raufarhöfn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Rauðanes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Þórshöfn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to
Iceland

Hitting headlines, topping bucket lists,
wooing nature lovers and dazzling

increasing numbers of visitors – there
seems no end to the talents of this

breathtaking northern destination.

A Symphony of Elements A Personal Experience

Iceland is, literally, a country in the making. The warmth of Icelanders is disarming, as
It’s a vast volcanic laboratory where mighty is their industriousness – they’ve worked
forces shape the earth: geysers gush, mud- hard to recover from financial upheaval,
pots gloop, ice-covered volcanoes rumble and to transform Iceland into a destination
and glaciers cut great pathways through that, thanks to its popularity with visitors,
the mountains. Its supercharged splendour can host five times its population each year.
seems designed to remind visitors of their Pause and consider a medium-sized city in
utter insignificance in the greater scheme your country – then give it far-flung univer-
of things. And it works a treat: some crisp sities, airports and hospitals to administer,
clean air, an eyeful of the cinematic land- 30-odd active volcanoes to monitor, and
scapes, and everyone is transfixed. hundreds of hotels to run. How might they
cope? Could they manage as well as the
The Power of Nature Icelanders – and still have time left over
to create spine-tingling music and natty
It’s the power of Icelandic nature to turn knitwear?
the prosaic into the extraordinary. A dip
in a pool becomes a soak in a geothermal Nordic Nirvana
lagoon; a casual stroll can transform into a
trek across a glittering glacier; and a quiet Don’t for a minute think it’s all about the
night of camping may mean front-row seats great outdoors. The counterpoint to so
to the aurora borealis’ curtains of fire, or much natural beauty is found in Iceland’s
the soft, pinkish hue of the midnight sun. cultural life, which celebrates a literary
Iceland has a transformative effect on legacy that stretches from medieval sagas
people, too – its sagas turned brutes into to contemporary thrillers by way of Nobel
poets, and its stories of huldufólk (hidden Prize winners. Live music is everywhere,
people) may make believers out of sceptics. as is visual art, handicrafts and locavore
Here you’ll find some of the world’s high- cuisine. The world’s most northerly capital
est concentrations of dreamers, authors, is home to the kind of egalitarianism, green
artists and musicians, all fuelled by their thinking and effortless style that its Nordic
surroundings. brethren are famous for – all of which is
wrapped in Iceland’s assured individuality.

NATAPONG SUPALERTSOPHON/ GETTY IMAGES © 5

Why I Love Iceland

By Carolyn Bain, Writer
As I flew north to begin my third circuit of Iceland in four years, I was slightly anxious. The
number of visitors to Iceland has doubled in that period, and I feared this might mean a little
less magic to go around. At the end of this trip, 6000km later, I’m thrilled to report that the
magic levels remain high. It’s found in glorious football victories and Viking chants, kayaking
among icebergs, sitting with puffins under the midnight sun and crunching across brand-
new lava fields. The locals’ resourcefulness, quirkiness, interconnectedness and warmth is
undiminished. My smitten state continues.
For more about our writers, see p424

Above: Northern Lights over Jökulsárlón (p327)

Iceland

Arctic Circle
DeSntrmaiatrk

Hornstrandir Ring RToröadlladsektoaugri with
viewpoints galore (p231)

Bolungarvík Drangajökull Siglufjörður
Suðureyri Ísafjörður Skagafjörður

Norðurfjörður

Þingeyri Húnaflói Drangey
Skagaströnd Sauðárkrókur
Bíldudalur Hólmavík
Patreksfjörður Blönduós Varmahlíð
Brjánslækur Hóp

Breiðafjörður Flatey Hvammstangi

MaTjehsetiWc setostnfejotrodwsers
and silent fjords (p196)

Búðardalur

Hellissandur-Rif Stykkishólmur

Ólafsvík SnæfellsnesGrundarfjörður

Eiriksjökull Hofsjökull
(1675m)

ASnmæicfreollcsonsmes oPfeIncienlasnudla's Langjökull
natural highlights (p181)
Borgarnes

Faxaflói ÞINGVELLIR
NATIONAL
Iceland’sRuenyrikvjaalvleídk nightlife Akranes PARK Geysir Gullfoss
headquarters (p86)
REYKJAVÍK
Keflavík
Njarðvík Kópavogur Þingvallavatn GusFhiinmgmwvaöterrðfualhlsálasnd a
steaming eruption site (p144)
Hafnarfjörður Hveragerði
Selfoss Landmannalaugar

Grindavík Þorlákshöfn Hella

Blue Lagoon Selvogsgrunn Hvolsvöllur Mýrdalsjökull
Steaming silica cauldron full Eyrarbakkabugur Eyjafjallajökull (1450m)

of relaxed bathers (p101) Vestmannaeyjar Skógar
Craggy archipelago and
NORTH roaring birdlife (p163)
ATLANTIC
Heimaey
OCEAN
VESTMANNAEYJAR Vík

Surtsey

0 100 km
0 50 miles

Grímsey Arctic Circle

Whale-wHatcúhsianvgíkheartland Raufarhöfn
and gateway to the unspoilt Þistilfjörður

northeast (p270) Öxarfjörður Þórshöfn BoHrigdadrefnjöhraðvuernEfyorstri
Bakkaflói puffins and elves (p295)
Flatey

Ólafsfjörður Húsavík Bakkafjörður

Dalvík Eyjafjörður JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR Vopnafjörður
(VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL

PARK – NORTH)

Dettifoss Vopnafjörður

Akureyri Reykjahlíð

Mývatn CascadeSseryiðnigsftjhöerðfjuorrd basin
of this arty township (p297)
Storied vAoslckajnaic crater,
part of a remote geological Egilsstaðir Seyðisfjörður

wonderland (p348) Neskaupstaður

Askja Eskifjörður

Reyðarfjörður

Fáskrúðsfjörður

Stöðvarfjörður

Bárðarbunga Breiðdalsvík
(2009m) Djúpivogur

Grimsvötn Kverkfjöll
(1719m) (1860m)

Vatnajökull Stafafell
Höfn
SKAFTAFELL
(VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL

PARK – SOUTH)

Hvannadalshnúkur VatnAajmökamulml Notahtiiocenacal pPark
(2110m) headlines this outstanding
national park (p326)
Skaftafell

Kirkjubæjarklaustur Ghost-blJuöekiucelbsáerrglósnset adrift
in an ethereal lagoon (p327)
ELEVATION

1500m
1000m
500m
200m
0
Glacier

8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Iceland’s

Top 14

9

Getting into Hot Water Northern Lights

1 Iceland’s unofficial pastime is splash- 2 Everyone longs to glimpse the
ing around in its surplus of geothermal Northern Lights (p156), the celestial
water. You’ll find ‘hot-pots’ everywhere, kaleidoscope known for transforming long
from downtown Reykjavík to the isolated winter nights into natural lava lamps. The
peninsular tips of the Westfjords. Not lights, also known as aurora borealis, form
only are they incredibly relaxing, they’re when solar flares are drawn by the earth’s
the perfect antidote to a hangover and a magnetic field towards the North Pole.
great way to meet the locals (this is their What results are ethereal veils of green,
social hub, the equivalent of the local pub white, violet or red light, shimmering
or town square). The Blue Lagoon (p101) and dancing in a display not unlike silent
is the big cheese: its steaming lagoon full fireworks. A good deal of luck is involved
of silica deposits sits conveniently close in seeing them, but look for the lights in
to Keflavík airport, making it the perfect clear, dark skies anytime between mid-
send-off before flying home. Below left: Blue September and mid-April.
Lagoon

NATTHAWAT/GETTY IMAGES ©
SERGEY DIDENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOHNATHAN AMPERSAND ESPER/GETTY IMAGES © NICK TSIATINIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

10
3
4
PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14

11
5

PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14

PETER DUCHEK/500PX ©

Westfjords Jökulsárlón Driving the Ring
Road
3 Iceland’s sweeping 4 A ghostly procession
spectrum of super- of luminous-blue 5 There’s no better
lative nature comes to icebergs drifts serenely way to explore Ice-
a dramatic climax in the through the 25-sq-km land than to hire a set of
Westfjords (p196) – the Jökulsárlón (p327) lagoon wheels and road-trip Rte
island’s off-the-beaten-path before floating out to 1, affectionately known as
adventure par excellence. sea. This surreal scene the Ring Road (p36). This
Broad, multi-hued beaches (handily, right next to the 1330km tarmac trail loops
flank the southern coast, Ring Road) is a natural around the island, pass-
roaring bird colonies film set: in fact, you might ing through verdant dales
abound, fjordheads tower have seen it in Batman decked with waterfalls,
above and then plunge into Begins and the James glacier tongues dripping
the deep, and a network of Bond film Die Another from ice caps like frosting
ruddy roads twists through- Day. The ice calves come from a cake, desert-like
out, adding an extra edge from Breiðamerkurjökull plains of grey outwash
of adventure. The region’s glacier, an offshoot of the sands, and velvety, moss-
uppermost peninsula, mighty Vatnajökull ice covered lava fields. It’s
Hornstrandir, is the final cap. Boat trips among the supremely spectacular –
frontier; its sea cliffs are bergs are popular, or you but don’t forget to detour.
perilous, the Arctic foxes can simply wander the Use the Ring Road as your
are foxier, and hiking trails lakeshore, scout for seals main artery and follow the
amble through pristine and exhaust your cam- veins as they splinter off
patches of wilderness that era’s memory card. into the wilderness. Above:
practically kiss the Arctic Ring Road passing through
Circle. Top left: Hornbjarg sea
cliffs (p216) Skaftafell (p319)

12

Tröllaskagi Peninsula Snæfellsnes Peninsula

6 Touring Tröllaskagi (p231) is a joy, 7 With its cache of wild beaches, bird
especially now that road tunnels sanctuaries, horse farms and lava
link the spectacularly sited townships of fields, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula (p181) is
Siglufjörður and Ólafsfjörður, once end-of- one of Iceland’s best escapes – either as
the-road settlements. Pit stops with pulling a day trip from the capital or as a relaxing
power include Hofsós’ perfect fjordside long weekend. It’s little wonder it’s called
swimming pool, Lónkot’s fine local produce ‘Iceland in miniature’ – it even hosts a
and Siglufjörður’s outstanding herring national park and glacier-topped strato-
museum. You’ll find glorious panoramas, volcano. Jules Verne was definitely onto
quality hiking, ski fields (including a growing something when he used Snæfellsjökull’s
trade in heliskiing), microbreweries, whale- icy crown as his magical doorway to the
watching tours, and ferries to offshore centre of the earth. Below right: Icelandic horse
islands Grímsey and Hrísey. Below left:
Swimming pool at Hofsós (p232)
SANTIAGO URQUIJO/GETTY IMAGES ©
HORSTGERLACH/GETTY IMAGES ©

PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14
67

CHRIS MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES © 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14
8

9

MICHAEL ZYSMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Reykjavík’s Cafe Culture & Vatnajökull National Park
Beer Bars
9 Europe’s largest national park covers
8 Petite Reykjavík boasts all the treats nearly 14% of Iceland and safeguards
you’d expect of a European capital – mighty Vatnajökull (p326), the largest ice
excellent museums and shopping – but the cap outside the poles (it’s three times the
city’s ratio of coffeehouses to citizens is size of Luxembourg). Scores of outlet gla-
staggering. In fact, the local social culture ciers flow down from its frosty bulk, while
is built around such low-key hang-outs that underneath it are active volcanoes and
crank up the intensity after hours, when tea mountain peaks. Yes, this is ground zero for
is swapped for tipples and the dance moves those ‘fire and ice’ clichés. You’ll be spell-
are broken out. Handcrafted caffeine hits bound by the diversity of landscapes, walk-
and designer microbrews are prepared ing trails and activities inside this super
with the utmost seriousness for accidental sized park. Given its dimensions, access
hipsters sporting well-worn lopapeysur points are numerous – start at Skaftafell
(Icelandic woollen sweaters). in the south or Ásbyrgi in the north. Above:
Fjallsárlón (p327)

14

Borgarfjörður Eystri & Fimmvörðuháls
Seyðisfjörður
11 If you haven’t time to complete
10 A tale of two east-side fjords. Stun- one of Iceland’s multiday treks, the
ning Seyðisfjörður garners most 23km, day-long Fimmvörðuháls trek (p144)
of the attention – it’s only 27 (sealed) will quench your wanderer’s thirst. Start
kilometres from the Ring Road, and it wel- at the shimmering cascades of Skógafoss;
comes the weekly ferry from Europe into hike up into the hinterland to discover a
its mountain- and waterfall-lined embrace. veritable parade of waterfalls; gingerly
Beautiful Borgarfjörður Eystri (p295), on tiptoe over the steaming remnants of the
the other hand, is 70km from the Ring Road, Eyjafjallajökull eruption; and hike along the
and much of that stretch is bumpy and stone terraces of a flower-filled kingdom
unsealed. Its selling points are understated: that ends in silent Þórsmörk, a haven for
puffins and rugged rhyolite peaks. Both campers, hemmed by a crown of glacial
fjords have natural splendour and bumper ridges. Right: Fimmvörðuháls Pass (p144)
hiking trails. Below: Seyðisfjörður (p297)
FEDERICA GENTILE/GETTY IMAGES ©
10
PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14

15 PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14
11
HENN PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

16
12

STEVE OLDHAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14

Askja & Vestmannaeyjar Puffins & Whales
Surrounds
13 An offshore archi- 14 Iceland’s two
12 Accessible for only pelago of craggy biggest wildlife
a few months each peaks, Vestmannaeyjar drawcards are its most
year, storied Askja (p348) (p163) is a mere 30- charismatic creatures:
is a mammoth caldera minute ferry ride from the twee puffin, which flits
ringed by mountains and the mainland, but feels around like an anxious
enclosing a sapphire-blue miles and miles away in bumblebee, and the mighty
lake. To access this glori- sentiment. A boat tour whale, a number of spe-
ous, otherworldly place, of the scattered islets cies of which, including
you’ll need a robust 4WD, unveils squawking sea- the immense blue whale,
a few days for hiking, or birds, towering cliffs and visit Iceland’s coast.
passage on a super-Jeep postcard-worthy vistas Opportunities to see both
tour. Highlands excursions of lonely hunting cabins abound on land and sea.
generally incorporate river perched atop rocky out- Whale-watching heart-
crossings, impossibly vast crops. The islands’ 4000- land is Húsavík (p270),
lava fields, regal moun- plus population is focused and other northern towns
tain vistas and outlaw on Heimaey, a small town and Reykjavík also offer
hideouts – and possibly a of windswept bungalows cruises. Colonies of puffins
naked soak in geothermal with a scarring curl of are poised and ready for
waters. Added bonus: lava that flows straight their close-up at numerous
head south from Askja through its centre – a coastal cliffs and offshore
to visit Iceland’s freshest poignant reminder of Ice- isles, including Heimaey,
lava field at Holuhraun. land’s volatile landscape. Grímsey, Drangey, Látra-
Above: Víti crater, near Askja Top right: Heimaey (p163) bjarg and Borgarfjörður
(p348) Eystri. Bottom right: Puffins

17
13
14
PLAN YOUR TRIP ICELAND’S TOP 14

CHRIS HOWEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © PATRICK DIEUDONNE / ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES ©

1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide (p387)

Currency When to Go

Icelandic króna (kr or Mild summers, cold winters
ISK)
Ísafjörður # #
Language GO Jun–Aug
Akureyri GEOgiJlsusnt–aAðuirg
Icelandic; English widely # GO year-round
spoken
Reykjavík GÞOóMrsamy–öSrkep
Visas GO year-round # #

Generally not required High Season Shoulder Low Season
for stays of up to 90 (Jun–Aug) (May & Sep) (Oct–Apr)
days.
¨¨Visitors descend ¨¨Breezier weather; ¨¨Mountain roads
Money en masse, especially occasional snows in closed; some minor
to Reykjavík and the the interior (access roads shut due to
Iceland is an almost south. Prices peak; via mountain roads weather conditions.
cashless society where prebookings are weather dependent). ¨¨Winter activities
credit cards reign essential. ¨¨Optimal visiting on offer, including
supreme, even in the ¨¨Endless daylight, conditions if you skiing, snowshoeing,
most rural reaches. PIN plentiful festivals, prefer fewer crowds visiting ice caves.
required for purchases. busy activities. and lower prices over ¨¨Brief spurts
ATMs available in all ¨¨Interior mountain cloudless days. of daylight; long
towns. roads open to 4WDs, nights with possible
mid-June or later; Northern Lights
Mobile Phones hikers welcome. viewings.

Mobile (cell) coverage
is widespread. Visitors
with GSM phones can
make roaming calls;
purchase a local SIM
card if you’re staying
a while.

Time

Western European Time
Zone (equal to GMT)

19

Useful Websites Daily Costs Supermarkets 9am–8pm (11pm PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now
in Reykjavík)
Visit Iceland (www.visiticeland. Budget: less than Vínbúðin (government-run
com) Official tourism portal. kr18,000 alcohol stores) Variable; many
Visit Reykjavík (www.visitreykja ¨¨Camping: kr1200–1800 outside Reykjavík only open for a
vik.is) Official site for the capital. ¨¨Dorm bed: kr4500–7000 couple of hours per day.
Icelandic Met Office (http:// ¨¨Hostel breakfast: kr1800–
en.vedur.is) Best resource for 2000 Arriving in Iceland
weather forecasts. ¨¨Grill-bar grub or soup lunch:
kr1500–2200 Keflavík International Airport
Icelandic Road Administration ¨¨One-way bus ticket Iceland’s primary international
(www.road.is) Details road open- Reykjavík–Akureyri: kr8800– airport, is 48km southwest of
ings and current conditions. 9300 Reykjavík. Flybus (www.
Lonely Planet (www.lonely re.is), Airport Express (www.
planet.com/iceland) Destination Midrange: kr18,000– airportexpress.is) and public
information, traveller forum and 35,000 busline Strætó (www.bus.is) have
more. ¨¨Guesthouse double room: buses connecting the airport with
kr18,000–28,000 Reykjavík. Flybus and Airport
Important ¨¨Cafe meal: kr2500–3500 Express offer pick-up/drop-off
Numbers ¨¨Museum entry: kr1000 at many city accommodations
¨¨Small vehicle rental (per day): (to bus station/hotel from
To call from outside Iceland, dial from kr10,000 kr2100/2700); Strætó is slightly
your international access code, cheaper (kr1680, to bus station
Iceland’s country code (354) then Top end: more than only). Airport Express has a new
the seven-digit number. There are kr35,000 connection between the airport
no area codes in Iceland. ¨¨Boutique double room: and Akureyri. Note: if you are
kr30,000–40,000 transferring to a domestic flight,
Emergency services %112 ¨¨Main dish in top-end you need to travel into Reykjavík
restaurant: kr4000–7000 to reach the domestic airport.
(police, ambulance, ¨¨4WD rental (per day): from Flybus offers transfers from
kr20,000 Keflavík from kr2800.
fire, Search & Cars can be rented from the
Opening Hours airport.
Rescue) Taxis link KEF with Reykjavík but
Opening hours vary throughout are expensive(about kr15,000),
Directory enquiries %118 the year (some places are closed
outside the high season). In Getting Around
Iceland country %354 general hours tend to be longer
from June to August, and shorter Car Vehicles can be expensive to
code (dialling in) from September to May. hire but provide great freedom. A
Banks 9am–4pm Monday to 2WD vehicle will get you almost
International ac- %00 Friday everywhere in summer. Driving
Cafe-bars 10am–1am Sunday to into the highlands and on F roads
cess code (dialling Thursday, 10am to between 3am requires 4WDs.
and 6am Friday and Saturday Bus A decent bus network
out) Cafes 10am–6pm operates from around mid-May
Petrol stations 8am–10pm or to mid-September, shuttling you
Weather %902 11pm between major destinations and
0600 Restaurants 11.30am–2.30pm into the highlands. Outside these
and 6pm–9pm or 10pm months, services are less fre-
Road condition %1777 Shops 10am–6pm Monday to Fri- quent (even nonexistent). Check
information day, 10am–4pm Saturday; some map at www.publictransport.is.
Sunday opening in Reykjavík
Exchange Rates malls and major shopping strips. For much more on
getting around,
Australia A$1 kr89 see p401

Canada C$1 kr91

Europe €1 kr132

Japan ¥100 kr116

NZ NZ$1 kr85

UK UK£1 kr152

US US$1 kr116

For current exchange rates, see
www.xe.com.

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

What’s New

Everything Is Changing authorities are looking at ways to protect
Almost everything in Iceland is undergo- it. New legislation prohibits wild camping
ing change. The country is one of the for campervans and the like – make sure
world’s hottest travel destinations (it’s seen you know the ins and outs of this. (p391)
a 20% growth in visitor numbers each
year since 2010). The result: new sights Hotels Booming
and activities, increased tour options and Every small town seems to have a hand-
operators, new and/or expanding accom- ful of new guesthouses, while many farms
modation, improved roads and tunnels, are adding cottages and/or rooms. The
more airlines servicing Iceland. And in- hotel chains have big plans: Fosshótel has
creased demand has seen increased prices a shiny new option in Reykjavík, another
(websites are the best source of up-to-date just east of Skaftafell, a big renovation
rates). completed in Húsavík, and construction
under way in Mývatn. Icelandair is part-
Winter Appeal nering with Hilton to open several high-
Although most visitors come in summer, end properties in the capital. And yet, it’s
winter arrivals are surging – and this still tough to find a room in July!
means more accommodation is staying
open year-round, and more winter tours New Sights, New Activities
and activities are springing up, from ice In Reykjavík, new attractions range from
cave visits to heliskiing. (p235) the absorbing Culture House (p64) to a
chocolate factory (p59). The Wilderness
Blue Lagoon Prebooking Center (p293) is a creative, multifaceted
The boom is having widespread conse- farm in east Iceland; there’s fresh, frosty
quences. It’s getting tougher to be spon- appeal at the Langjökull Ice Cave (p180);
taneous, for example – visits to the Blue new hot springs at Krauma (p178) in the
Lagoon must now be prebooked. (p101) west; and a high-tech new LAVA Center
(p138) planned near Hvolsvöllur. You can
New lava at Holuhraun now kayak among icebergs on a glacier
Nature itself is changing the landscape: for lagoon (p330), dive with puffins off Grím-
instance, the 2014–15 eruption of Bárðar- sey (p260), or go dog sledding near Mývatn
bunga has left Holuhraun, Iceland’s newest (p262).
lava field, deep in the highlands. (p348)
For more recommendations and
New Camping Laws reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/
With so many visitors, Iceland’s unspoilt Iceland
nature is facing increased traffic, and

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 21

If You Like…

Wildlife Breiðafjörður Thousands of ing paradise orbiting the Arctic
islets dot the sweeping bay Circle. (p214)
Vestmannaeyjar’s puffins as rainbows soar overhead Skaftafell Follow trails through
The largest puffin colony in the in summertime sun showers. twisting birch woods or don
world lives in this eye-catching (p181) crampons to tackle offshoots of
archipelago. (p163) Skaftafell to Höfn Glittering mammoth Vatnajökull ice cap.
Húsavík’s whales View under- glaciers, brooding mountains (p319)
water marvels and bird life on a and an iceberg-filled lagoon Jökulsárgljúfur A veritable
boat expedition from Iceland’s line this stretch along the Ring smorgasbord of geological
whale-watching heartland. Road’s southeast coast. (p319) wonders, including thundering
(p275) Eastfjords Supermodel Seyðis- waterfalls and Iceland’s ‘Grand
Hornstrandir’s Arctic foxes fjörður steals the limelight, but Canyon’. (p276)
Iceland’s only native mammal its fine fjord neighbours are just Kerlingarfjöll A remote
thrives in the faraway kingdom as photogenic. (p295) highland massif with geo-
of towering cliffs and mossy Þórsmörk A magnificent thermal activity, and a growing
stones. (p212) forested kingdom nestled under reputation among the hiking
Lake Mývatn’s birds Twitchers volcanic peaks, wild stretches community. (p343)
adore the marshy surrounds of of desert and looming glaciers. Borgarfjörður Eystri The base
the lake, a magnet for migrating (p152) for a superb series of trails –
geese and all kinds of waterfowl. Askja A remote, sapphire-blue don’t miss the giant boulders
(p259) lake at the heart of an immense and green ponds of Stórurð.
Vatnsnes Peninsula’s seals caldera accessed across vast, (p295)
Take a seal-spotting cruise from barren lava fields. (p348)
Hvammstangi or drive the pen- Tröllaskagi Peninsula The road Lagoons &
insula to scout for sunbaking hugs steep mountainsides, then Swimming Pools
pinnipeds. (p225) emerges from tunnels to cap-
ture magical vistas of glistening Blue Lagoon It’s hard not to
Stunning Scenery waters. (p231) adore a soak in this steam-
ing silica soup surrounded by
You realise that choosing Hiking dramatic flourishes of frozen
between incomparable lava. (p101)
vistas is like trying to pick Landmannalaugar and Mývatn Nature Baths Ease
a favourite child? This list Þórsmörk Striking realms your aching hiking muscles at
could be endless… offering endless foot fodder; the the north’s scenic answer to the
Þingeyri to Bíldudalur Zipper- hike between these centres is Blue Lagoon. (p268)
like fjordheads resemble fleets the original flavour of wilderness Krossneslaug A Valhalla at
of earthen ships engaged in walking. (p148) the edge of the world where
battle. (p203) Hornstrandir Pristine nature as lapping Arctic waters mingle
far as the eye can see in this hik-

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… JULES_KITANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
with a toasty geothermal source.
(p220)
Lýsuhólslaug Swimming in this
pool’s mineral-rich waters is like
soaking in a warm gin fizz with a
twist of algae. (p193)
Sundlaugin á Hofsósi This per-
fectly sited fjordside swimming
pool puts the sleepy northern
town of Hofsós on the map.
(p232)
Gamla Laugin Mist rises from
the ‘Secret Lagoon’ in Flúðir,
surrounded by wildflower-filled
meadows. (p119)
Víti The milky-blue waters are
tepid, but the location – a crater
beside the Askja caldera in the
remote interior highland – is
sizzling. (p348)

History CATCHASNAP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Settlement Exhibition Brilliantly Top: Dynjandi (p204)
curated exhibit constructed Bottom: Fish soup
around the excavation site of an
ancient Viking hall. (p54)
Settlement Centre Insight into
Iceland’s settlement and famous
Egil’s Saga through beautiful
wooden sculptures. (p171)
Herring Era Museum Re-creates
the heydey of herring fishing,
which once brought frenzied
activity and riches to Siglufjörður.
(p233)
Víkingaheimar A fresh-faced
museum whose centrepiece is
a perfect reconstruction of the
oldest known Viking-age ship.
(p105)
Lakagígar Attempt to
comprehend one of the most
catastrophic volcanic events in
human history. (p317)
Eldheimar The ‘Pompeii of the
North’ museum gives insight into
the devastating 1973 eruption on
Heimaey. (p164)
Fáskrúðsfjörður The French
flavour of this fjord is celebrated

23

with a new hotel and museum Skógafoss Camp near this that gladdens the heart of PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like…
development. (p306) gorgeous gusher then hike up retreat-seeking ecologists and
National Museum Great into the highlands for 20 more birdwatchers. (p301)
historical context and content, waterfalls just beyond. (p143) Buubble Hotel Scouting for
spanning Settlement to the Dynjandi Veins of Arctic water Northern Lights might prevent
modern age. (p65) cascade 100m over terraces you catching any shut-eye in
Icelandic Emigration Center of stone and afford some of these unique clear domes.
How and why so many Iceland- the most gorgeous fjord views. (p118)
ers headed to the New World (p204) Tungulending A secluded
for a new life in the late 19th Seljalandsfoss A (slippery) waterfront outpost designed to
century. (p231) path in the rockface gives make you slow down and enjoy
behind-the-scenes access to the knockout views. (p276)
Local Food this postcard-perfect chute. Þakgil Camp in an emerald-
(p141) green valley among stark
Fish soup Any restaurant worth Hengifoss Iceland’s second- mountains and dramatic rock
its salt has fish soup on the highest falls plummet into a formations. (p163)
menu – try it at Narfeyrarstofa photogenic, brown-and-red-
(p184) or Gamla Rif (p189). striped gorge. (p293) Architecture &
Lamb Iceland’s headliner meat Design
is a locavore’s dream; it falls off Unique Sleeps
the bone at myriad restaurants, Churches Some of Iceland’s
including Fjallakaffi. (p270) Hótel Egilsen A run-down most intriguing architec-
Hákarl A pungent tribute to merchant’s house transformed tural flourishes can be seen
Iceland’s unpalatable past – try into a gorgeous harbour inn with in churches in Stykkishólmur
a piece of this spongy-soggy boutique-chic fixtures. (p183) (p183), Akureyri (p243) and
oddity at Bjarnarhöfn. (p185) Hótel Djúpavík This legendary Reykjavík (p59).
Langoustine The Höfn fishing bolt-hole fulfils fjord fantasies; Iceland Design Centre
fleet pulls countless crusta- Sigur Rós shot part of their Promoting Iceland’s designers
ceans from the icy local waters; documentary here. (p220) and architects, and the brains
Höfn’s restaurants simply grill Dalvík HI Hostel Charming, behind the annual DesignMarch
and add butter. (p333) vintage-inspired hostel like event. (p59)
Skyr A delicious yoghurt-y no other we’ve encountered. Harpa Reykjavík’s dazzling
snack available at any super- Budget prices belie boutique concert hall and cultural centre
market in Iceland. (p383) decor. (p241) glows like the switchboard of an
Hverabrauð Sample this Silfurberg Soak in a glass- alien ship after dark. (p59)
cake-like rye bread, baked dome-enclosed hot-pot at this Turf houses A paradigm of
underground using geothermal luxurious boutique guesthouse pre-modern Iceland, these hob-
heat, around Mývatn. (p259) in view-blessed Breiðdalur bit houses offer a wonderfully
valley. (p308) whimsical insight into Iceland’s
Waterfalls Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel past. (p227)
Swim in geothermal waters and Reykjavík design boutiques
Dettifoss With the greatest vol- dine on organic, local fare at From sleek, fish-skin purses to
ume of any waterfall in Europe, this award-winning design hotel. knitted lopapeysur (Icelandic
thundering Dettifoss is nature at (p114) woollen sweaters) and nature-
its most awesome. (p280) Wilderness Center Bunk inspired jewellery. (p90)
Goðafoss The ‘Waterfall of the down in a re-created baðstofa Þórbergssetur Honouring a
Gods’, loaded with spiritual (historic living/sleeping room) local writer, this museum has an
symbolism; looks like it’s been on a farm in a glorious, remote inspired exterior (resembling a
ripped straight from a shampoo eastern valley. (p293) giant bookshelf) that’s a traffic-
commercial. (p259) Skálanes Remote fjordside stopper. (p329)
farm and nature reserve

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS seems untouched. The March
Iceland Airwaves, countryside is scenic
November under snow, but it’s mostly Winter is officially over, but
Reykjavík Culture dark – there are only seven it’s not quite time to start
Night, August to eight hours of daylight celebrating. The country
Þjódhátíð, August per day. wakes from its slumber;
Bræðslan, July winter activities such
Northern Lights, mid- z Winter Lights as skiing are popular as
September to mid-April daylight hours increase.
Festival
January Reykjavík sparkles mid- 6 Beer Day
month with this winter-
After December’s cheer, warmer encompassing Hard to imagine, but beer
the festive hangover hits. Museum Night and Pool was illegal in Iceland for 75
The first few weeks of Night (late-opening mu- years. On 1 March, Iceland-
the year can feel like an seums and swimming ers celebrate the day in
anticlimax – not helped pools), illuminated land- 1989 when the prohibition
by long dark nights and marks, light installations, was overturned. Pubs, res-
inclement weather. concerts, and celebra- taurants and clubs around
tions to mark Interna- Reykjavík are especially
5 Þorrablót tional Children’s Day. See beer-lovin’ on this night.
www.vetrarhatid.is.
This Viking midwinter 2 Iceland Winter
feast from late January to 5 Food & Fun
mid- or late February is Games
marked nationwide with International chefs team Snowy activities take centre
stomach-churning treats up with local restaurants stage in Akureyri, Iceland’s
such as hákarl (fermented and vie for awards at this winter-sports capital, in-
Greenland shark), svið capital feast held in Febru- cluding international free
(singed sheep’s head) and ary or March. Teams are ski and snowboard compe-
hrútspungar (rams’ testi- given the finest Icelandic titions. Tour operators offer
cles). All accompanied by ingredients (lamb and sea- ways to get out into snowy
shots of brennivín (a potent food, natch) to create their scenes (dog sledding, snow-
schnapps nicknamed ‘black masterpieces. See www. mobiling, super-Jeep and
death’). Hungry? foodandfun.is. helicopter tours). Get more
details at www.icelandwin
February 3 Sónar Reykjavík tergames.com.

The coldest month in Music, creativity and tech- z DesignMarch
many parts of Iceland, nology: this festival brings
though life in the capital all three together for three The local design scene is
days in February at Harpa celebrated in Reykjavík
concert hall, with more at this four-day fest of all
than 70 bands and DJs things aesthetically pleas-
from Iceland and abroad ing: from fashion to furni-
(www.sonarreykjavik.com). ture, architecture to food

3 Reykjavík Arts 25

design. It’s organised by the Festival to August. Whale-watching PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
Iceland Design Centre (see Culture-vultures flock to boats leave from the Rey-
www.designmarch.is). Iceland’s premier cultural kjavík area, from Akureyri
festival, which showcases and surrounds, and from
April two weeks of local and in- Húsavík, the country’s
ternational theatre perfor- whale-watching HQ.
Easter is celebrated in mances, film, dance, music
a traditional fashion and visual art. See www. z National Day
(Easter-egg hunts and listahatid.is.
roast lamb), and spring is The country’s biggest
in the air. Days lengthen June holiday commemorates the
and the mercury climbs, founding of the Republic
meaning lots of greenery Hello summer! The short of Iceland, on 17 June 1944,
after the snow melts, plus three-month-long tourist with parades and general
thousands of migrating season begins. Pros: the patriotic merriness. Tradi-
birds. best weather, near-endless tion has it that the sun isn’t
daylight, the pick of tours supposed to shine. And it
z Sumardagurinn and excursions, the best usually doesn’t.
choice of accommodation.
Fyrsti Cons: big crowds, peak 2 Opening of
Rather ambitiously, Ice- prices, the need to book all
landers celebrate the first lodging. Mountain Roads
day of summer (the first The highland regions of
Thursday after 18 April) z Seafarers’ Day Iceland are generally blan-
with celebrations and street keted in snow well into the
parades. A case of winter- Fishing is integral to Ice- warmer months. The open-
induced madness? No, it’s landic life, and Seafarers’ ing of 4WD-only mountain
a nod to the Old Norse Day (Sjómannadagurinn) roads is weather depend-
calendar, which divided the is party time in fish- ent, but generally occurs
year into just two seasons: ing villages. On the first around mid-June; roads
winter and summer. weekend in June, every are closed again by late
ship in Iceland is in har- September/October. The
1 Puffins on Parade bour and all sailors have website www.road.is keeps
a day off. Salty-dog events you updated.
To the delight of twitchers include drinking, rowing
and photographers, the and swimming contests, 1 Midnight Sun
divinely comedic puffin ar- tugs-of-war and mock sea
rives in huge numbers (an rescues. Except for the island of
estimated 10 million birds) Grímsey, Iceland lies just
for the breeding season, de- z Hafnarfjörður south of the Arctic Circle.
parting for warmer climes Still, around the summer
by mid-August. There are Viking Festival solstice (21 June) it’s pos-
puffin colonies all around The peace is shattered sible to view the midnight
the country. as Viking hordes invade sun (when the setting sun
this seaside town near doesn’t fully dip below the
May Reykjavík for a four-day horizon), especially in the
festival mid-June. Expect country’s north. The end-
May is shoulder season, family-friendly storytelling, less daylight is perfect for
and isn’t a bad month staged battles, archery and visiting natural attractions
to visit, just before the music. See www.vikingvil in the wee hours, avoiding
tourist season cranks up lage.is. peak daytime crowds.
in earnest. Enjoy prices
before they escalate, plus 1 Whale Watching 3 Secret Solstice
lengthening days, spring
wildflowers and first-rate Some 11 species of whale This excellent music festival
birdwatching. are regularly spotted in wa- (www.secretsolstice.is) with
ters around Iceland. Sight- local and international acts
ings happen year-round but coincides with the summer
the best time is from June solstice, so there’s 24-hour
daylight for partying. It’s

26 ztraditional tunes, courses
held at Laugardalur in
Reykjavík. on Icelandic music, dance
and handicrafts. See www. Verslunarmannahelgi
z Midsummer folkmusik.is. A public-holiday long week-
end (the first weekend in
3Although midsummer isn’t August) when Icelanders
Skálholt Summer flock to rural festivals, rock
as major an event as in the
rest of the Nordic countries, Concerts
PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month the longest day of the year The cathedral at the his- concerts and wild camping-
ground parties.
is celebrated in Iceland toric religious centre of
with solstice parties and Skálholt hosts around 40 z Þjóðhátíð
bonfires (staged anytime public concerts, lectures
between 21 and 24 June). and workshops over a six- This earth-shaking event
week period from July to occurs in Heimaey, Vest-
5 Humar Festival August. The focus is on mannaeyjar, on the August
contemporary religious long weekend, commemo-
The tasty humar (often music and early music. See rating the day in 1874 when
called lobster, but techni- www.sumartonleikar.is. foul weather prevented the
cally it’s langoustine) is islanders from partying
pulled fresh from Icelandic
Eistnaflug when Iceland’s constitu-
3waters and served a delec- tion was established. Up to
table number of ways in the The remote Eastfjords
fishing town of Höfn dur- town of Neskaupstaður 16,000 people descend to
watch bands and fireworks,
ing the Humarhátíð festival goes off in the second week and drink gallons of alco-
in late June/early July. of July, when the popula- hol. See www.dalurinn.is.

July tion doubles to celebrate z Herring Festival
the heavy-metal festival
Iceland’s festival pace Eistnaflug. Metal, hardcore, On the August long week-
quickens alongside punk, rock and indie bands end, Siglufjörður celebrates
a (hopefully) rising share the stage. See www. its heady herring-induced
eistnaflug.is. heyday with dancing, feast-

temperature gauge and a Bræðslan ing, drinking and fishy-
flavoured activities.
3distinct swelling of tourist
zThe beloved Bræðslan pop/
numbers. Expect busy Reykjavík Culture
roads, crowded trails, rock festival has earned
a reputation for great
packed camping grounds, music and an intimate Night
no-vacancy guesthouses atmosphere. Some big local On Culture Night (Mennin-
etc and book ahead. names (and a few interna- garnótt), held mid-month,
tional ones) come to play in Reykjavikers turn out in
z Landsmót tiny, out-of-the-way Borgar- force for a day and night
fjörður Eystri on the third of art, music, dance and
Hestamanna weekend in July. Check out fireworks. Many galleries,
Horse lovers: the week-long www.braedslan.com. ateliers, shops, cafes and
national Icelandic horse churches stay open until
competition is held in even- late. See www.menningar
numbered years at rotating
host towns. It’s a beloved nott.is for a full program.
spectator event and excuse August
for a country festival. See 2 Reykjavík
www.landsmot.is. The busy tourist season

continues apace, with Marathon

3 Folk Music Southern Europeans flying Your chance to get sporty,
north for vacation. By mid-month in Reykjavík

Festival mid-month the puffins sees more than 15,000 peo-

The tiny but perfect have departed (and some ple get sweaty at full- and
five-day folk music fes- whales, too); by late half-marathons, as well

tival in Siglufjörður August the local kids are as fun runs. See www.

welcomes Icelandic and back at school, and the marathon.is.

foreign musicians. Enjoy nights are lengthening.

3 Reykjavík Jazz 27

Festival mals are herded into a cor- sees nights lengthening PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
Mid-August, Reykjavík ral where the sorting takes (sunsets around 4pm)
toe-taps its way through place (participants and and weather cooling, but
five days dedicated to jazz, spectators welcome). Natu- Reykjavík parties hard,
man. Local and interna- rally, it’s all accompanied with big crowds gathering
tional musicians blow their by much merrymaking. for its music festival.
own trumpets at events
staged at Harpa. Check out 3 Reykjavík 3 Iceland Airwaves
www.reykjavikjazz.is.
International Film You’d be forgiven for think-
z Reykjavík Pride Festival ing Iceland is just one giant
This intimate 11-day event music-producing machine.
Out and proud since 1999, from late September fea- Since the first edition of
this festival brings carnival tures quirky programming Iceland Airwaves was held
colour to the capital on that highlights independent in 1999, this fab festival has
the second weekend of Au- film-making, both home- become one of the world’s
gust. Up to 90,000 people grown and international. premier annual showcases
(more than a quarter of There are also panels and for new music (Icelandic
the country’s population) masterclasses. Check the and otherwise). Check out
attend the Pride march program at www.riff.is. www.icelandairwaves.is.
and celebrations. See www.
hinsegindagar.is/en. z Reykjavík z Days of Darkness

z Jökulsárlón International Literary East Iceland (Egilsstaðir
Festival and the fjords) perversely
Fireworks Feeling bookish? This ven- celebrates the onset of win-
Could there be a more erable festival gathers in- ter over 10 days in early to
beautiful location for a ternational writers for four mid-November, with dark
fireworks display than days of readings and panels dances, ghost stories, magic
Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon? in the capital. Check www. shows and torch-lit proces-
For one night in mid- to bokmenntahatid.is. sions during its unusual
late August, an annual Days of Darkness (Dagar
event is staged, with buses October Myrkurs) festival.
shuttling spectators from
Höfn, Kirkjubæjarklaustur October marks the official 2 Ice Caves
and Skaftafell. See www. onset of winter, with cooler
visitvatnajokull.is. temperatures, longer The frozen blue wonder of
nights and the appearance natural ice caves becomes
September of the Northern Lights. accessible close to glacier
edges from around No-
Tourist arrivals decrease 1 Northern Lights vember through to March.
significantly and prices For safety reasons you
drop, making this a good Also called aurora borealis, must visit with a guide –
time to visit. The weather these colourful, danc- arrange tours with local
can still be agreeable, ing lights are caused by operators in the southeast,
but summer-only hotels, charged particles from between Skaftafell and
attractions and services solar flares colliding with Höfn. (p321)
are closed. Highland roads the earth’s atmosphere.
are closed by month’s end. They can only be viewed on December
a dark night with no cloud
2 Réttir cover. The best months A festive atmosphere
for viewing are from Oc- brings cheer to the darkest
An autumn highlight, tober to April (from mid- time of the year. Christmas
the réttir is the farmers’ September, if you’re lucky). markets, concerts and
round-up of sheep that have parties keep things bright
grazed wild over summer. November and cosy, followed by New
The round-up is often done Year’s Eve celebrations.
on horseback and the ani- Summer is a distant Note that some hotels are
memory. November closed between Christmas
and New Year.

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd STOCKWITHME/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Itineraries

NORTH Þingvellir Geysir Gullfoss
ATLANTIC National Park #• •#

OCEAN ÷#
É
REYKJAVÍK ÉÉ
#_ É #•Þjórsárdalur
Keflavík É
International É

Airport
#–
Hella
É #•
É
#• Hvolsvöllur
#• Stokkseyri
Blue Lagoon •# ÉKrýsuvík
•# ÉÉ •#
É

É
Valahnúkur É •# É Þórsmörk
Eyrarbakki É #•
É
É
É
#• Sólheimajökull

•#
Skógar

4DAYS Reykjavík Minibreak

Whether you’re on a lengthy layover After landing in Keflavík International
or enjoying a long weekend away, Airport make a beeline for the Blue
don’t miss the chance to get out into Lagoon to soak away the jet lag in sur-
the countryside and take in some of real waters and silica mud. Wander the
the natural wonders located within a Reykjanes Peninsula’s steaming earth near
stone’s throw of the capital. It’s simple Valahnúkur or Krýsuvík before barrel-
to string together the top sights, ling down the coastal highway for fresh
including the Golden Circle, with more seafood in Eyrarbakki or Stokkseyri.
off-the-beaten-path diversions, and Choose a base near Hella or Hvolsvöllur
still have a bit of time left to lap up to get out in the open air on horseback: the
Reykjavík’s unique charm. lush waterfall-rimmed Fljótshlíð valley is a
key candidate. Or try to spot the Northern
Lights (in the colder months). Active bod-
ies will enjoy the stunning Fimmvörðuháls
hike from Skógar up through the ridge

29

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries

Geysir (p116)

between two brooding ice caps (and the cascades at Gullfoss, the spurting Geysir
site of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010) from which all others got their name, and
then down into Þórsmörk, a forested the rift valley and ancient parliament site
valley dotted with wild Arctic flowers. Or Þingvellir National Park – the classic
you can take a super-Jeep tour or amphibi- Golden Circle route.
ous bus to Þórsmörk, and head out on day
hikes around the valley. Those who are Wrap up your minibreak with a night
tighter on time can trek along the glacial in Reykjavík. Iceland’s capital bustles
tongue of Sólheimajökull instead. with an all-star assortment of design bou-
tiques, interesting museums and galleries,
On your way back west, roam the scrumptious restaurants and lively bars,
Þjórsárdalur, a broad volcanic river plus there’s easy access to whale-watching
valley with a handful of disparate sights, trips from the Old Harbour.
including a Settlement Era farmstead,
hidden waterfalls, and the foothills of
Hekla volcano. Or, swing up to the gushing

30

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries

•# Flatey

É #f
É
É#•Stykkishólmur
ÉÉ
Öndverðarnes #• Grundarfjörður
É •# É

RauðfeldsHgjeállnar•#•##•Ar•#nBarresitðaapvi ík É Upper
É Borgarfjörður
Borgarnes •# #•
É
NORTH É #• Langjökull
ATLANTIC #• Kaldidalur

OCEAN Corridor
Geysir
REYKJAVÍK #_
#÷ •# #•Gullfoss

NaÞtiinognvaellPliarrk
É

31

RAMIRO TORRENTS/GETTY IMAGES © 1WEEK Best of the West

With one week to spend, you’ll be able to PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
roam further than the popular Golden Circle
CULTURA EXCLUSIVE/TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © and the busy southwest. We like heading
northwest from Reykjavík to lesser-travelled
Top: Arnarstapi (p191) west Iceland, which is chock-a-block with
Bottom: Langjökull (p180) history and boasts landscapes ranging from
lava fields to broad fjords and ice caps, and
gives a sense of the wonderful solitude that
Iceland offers.

Start in Reykjavík, enjoying the city’s
museums, cafes and bars while getting acclima-
tised. Then complete the day-long Golden Circle
with stops at glittering Gullfoss, surging Gey-
sir, and historic Þingvellir National Park,
where you’ll witness the tearing apart of the
continental plates. If you’re feeling adventurous,
go inland and bump along the rutted Kaldida-
lur Corridor for stunning vistas through
the pinnacles of several ice caps. Stop in at
Langjökull for exploration of its glistening
tunnel and caves, or a taste of icy activities such
as snowmobiling or dog sledding. You’ll emerge
at Upper Borgarfjörður, where you can sleep
in the quiet countryside and explore enormous
lava tubes. If you’re not up for the back-country
aspects of the Kaldidalur Corridor, instead head
to Borgarnes along the coastal route, and
learn about the sagas at its excellent Settlement
Centre.

Next up, explore the wonderful Snæfellsnes
Peninsula. Start by horse riding around the bay
of Breiðavík or creeping into the bizarre gorge,
Rauðfeldsgjá. Then head west to Arnarstapi,
where you can hike the coastal trail to Hellnar
or pick up a Snæfellsjökull glacier tour, explor-
ing Jules Verne’s fabled centre of the earth. The
area is part of Snæfellsjökull National ̈Park and
offers a multitude of hikes, taking in bird cliffs,
volcanic craters, lava tubes and protected native
flower terrain.

On the tip of the peninsula near
Öndverðarnes look for pods of orca whales, or
catch a whale-watching or puffin-viewing tour
near Grundarfjörður. Then alight in charm-
ing Stykkishólmur, where you can take in
interesting museums and sup on tasty mussels.
If time permits, hop aboard the Baldur ferry for
a day trip to quaint Flatey island; it’s a great
way to really disconnect from the world before
returning to the capital.

32 ALEXEY STIOP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1DA0YS Classic Ring Road JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

For such a wild, wonderful land, much of
Iceland is surprisingly compact; the classic
Ring Road trip loops you near the most
popular sights. With extra time, you can add
on myriad other adventures along the way.

Start in Reykjavík, enjoying the city’s creature
comforts, before heading out in a clockwise
fashion. Stop in Borgarnes for its fascinating
Settlement Centre, historical sights and tasty
restaurants. Then zip up to Stykkishólmur,
an adorable village overlooking a bay studded
by islets. With extra time, from here you could
detour to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Either
way, rejoin the Ring Road, breaking free of it
once more to explore the quaint townships and
coastal vistas of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula
before gliding through Akureyri, Iceland’s
unofficial northern capital. Head to the geologi-
cal treasure chest of the Mývatn region next,
with a stop at Dettifoss to experience nature’s
awesome power firsthand. Push eastwards, de-
touring to Borgarfjörður Eystri for summer
puffins galore. Take a break in Seyðisfjörður,
then tackle the long journey through the rest of
the east as the road curls along magical fjords.

Pause in Höfn for langoustine, then jump
on a snowmobile to discover the vast ice cap
at Vatnajökull. Don’t miss the glacial lagoon
at Jökulsárlón, or neighbouring Fjallsárlón,
where giant bergs break off glaciers and float
out to sea. You can warm up your hiking legs
in Skaftafell, then head south across mossy
lava fields and enormous river deltas to Vík,
which has a fantastical basalt-columned beach
and puffin cliffs. Still feeling spry? Tackle the
awesome trek from Skógar to Þórsmörk, a
verdant interior valley. Or continue west along
the Ring Road, passing enormous waterfalls
at Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, then veer
away one last time to check out the Golden
Circle: Gullfoss, Geysir and the yawning
continental divide and ancient governmental
seat at Þingvellir National Park. Roll back
into Reykjavík to spend the remainder of your
holiday chatting with the locals, whether in the
city’s geothermal pools or during late-night pub
crawls.

Top: Stykkishólmur (p181)
Bottom: Dettifoss (p280)

33

Tröllaskagi
Peninsula•#

É Dettifoss É Borgarfjörður
É É •# Eystri
É •# É
É Akureyri É •# •#

Mývatn Seyðisfjörður •# É
É
Stykkishólmur É
•#

Borgarnes •# Þingvellir
National
REYKJAVÍK #_ Park Geysir Vatnajökull
•#
É ÷# É•#•#Gullfoss •#Höfn
É
ÉÉ
É

É
Skaftafell •# •#Jökulsárlón

ÞorsmörkÉ
•#É

SeljalandsfSoksósg•#afo•#ss•#Skó•#gaVrík

34

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries

HorÉns#•trandir Grímsey #•

#f É Langanes
É #•
ÉÉ Siglufjörður
Ísafjörður•# ÉÉ Norðurfjörður #• Éf# Húsavík Ásbyrgi
#• É É
É #• Djúpavík É•# #•

É
ÉBíldudalur #• É
É#• É Hofsós #• Dalvík ÉDettifoss
#• #• ÉÉ#•Vopnafjörðu#•r Borgarfjörður
É#• Ù# •#É Eystri
PaDtryenkjsafnjödriður•# Hólmavík Akureyri É •# •#
É

Rauðasandur Mývatn

Látrabjarg Seyðisfjörður #•

#f É Eskifjörður #•
Stykkishólmur #•
Askja #•
SPneæInn#•tfieenlrslnsKuAanelaiteBfrilsopalRunovBEeÉaírkotYlLr–#KagJag•#AronVoenÍKs#_•#ÞSÉNitnaPotgakivorkÉeknslale÷#ilry•#ri•#•#UBoLpLrapagÉnneadgrrjmföjöka#•runðÞlnluóarrla#•sumgöarrkL•#aka•#gKígiraÉkrjuKbSvVækeaart#•jkafntfraajköjfölelalkl•#u#•lu#•sJltlöukruDlsjúÉáprlivó•#ongHuörf#•n
É

É É
É
É

#f É

Vestmannaeyjar #• •#Vík

35

STANDRET/SHUTTERSTOCK © 4WEEKS The Grand Tour

On an extended stay in addition to seeing PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
major sights you can venture further from the
MENNO SCHAEFER/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ring Road into the gorgeous Westfjords, or
four-wheel-drive the Highlands.
Top: Búðir (p192), Southern Snæfellsnes
Bottom: Puffins, Látrabjarg Peninsula (p200) From Keflavík, rent wheels and head to the
Blue Lagoon to unwind. Follow the coastal road
to arty Stokkseyri, then ditch the car to hike
from Landmannalaugar to verdant Þórsmörk.
Next, catch the boat to Vestmannaeyjar, where
puffins flip-flap over fresh lava. Then sojourn
near Vík, with its black basalt beach.

At Kirkjubæjarklaustur venture up to Lak-
agígar to learn about the devastating effects of
Laki’s eruptions. Skaftafell offers hiking and
glacier walking. Don’t miss a boat ride with ice-
bergs at Jökulsárlón and a snowmobile safari
on Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest ice cap. Pause
in Höfn for legendary langoustine, then relax in
hushed Breiðdalsvík before negotiating hairpin
fjord roads to peaceful Eskifjörður and inspir-
ing Seyðisfjörður. Follow the rhyolite cliffs
down to Borgarfjörður Eystri to photograph
puffins, then climb through Vopnafjörður
to the grassy plains of Langanes. The quiet
northeastern circuit rolls through Ásbyrgi to
charming Húsavík, perfect for whale watching.
Scenic Mývatn makes a great base for exploring
the pounding waterfall, Dettifoss, and Iceland’s
Highland treasures such as the mammoth cal-
dera at Askja and silent ice caves at Kverkfjöll.
Stop for a slice of civilisation in Akureyri before
touching the Arctic Circle in Grímsey. Wander
up through Dalvík, check out Siglufjörður,
then treat yourself to a relaxing swim in Hofsós.

Next, head to the Westfjords to learn about
ancient witchcraft in Hólmavík, sleep fjordside
in Djúpavík and bathe in the Norðurfjörður
geothermal spring. Use spunky Ísafjörður as a
launch pad to Hornstrandir, Iceland’s majestic
hiking reserve. Enter the incredible heart of the
Westfjords, to find the gushing waters of Dyn-
jandi, and use Bíldudalur or Þingeyri as a base
for exploring jaw-dropping fjords. Head down
to Patreksfjörður for a square meal and to
visit the bird cliffs at Látrabjarg and the mind-
blowing pink-red beach at Rauðasandur.

Ferry over to charming Stykkishólmur
and discover the treasures of the Snæfellsnes
Peninsula. Borgarnes and Upper Borgar-
fjörður blend saga sites and hidden caves, then
Langjökull presents some human handiwork
in its ice tunnel. Finish the history lesson at
Þingvellir National Park. Then end the epic
journey in Reykjavík, the ebullient capital.

36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip

Ring Road
Planner

Unless you’ve visited Iceland before, you’ll likely struggle to name
an Icelandic town besides Reykjavík. You may worry about planning
your visit when so much of the country is vast and unknown. Fear
not, the path is clear: take the Ring Road.

Best Ring Road Detours Route 1

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Route 1 (Þjóðvegur 1), known as the Ring
Road, is the country’s main thoroughfare,
A veritable ring road unto itself that takes in lava comprising a super-scenic 1330km (830
fields, wild coastline and an infamous ice cap; miles) of mostly paved highway. It’s rarely
200km detour. more than one lane in either direction.
Countless gems line its path, while second-
Tröllaskagi Peninsula ary roads lead off it to further adventures.

Follow Rte 76/Rte 82 as it climbs up towards When to Go
the Arctic – hair-raising road tunnels and scenic
panoramas await; 90km detour. The Ring Road is generally accessible
year-round (there may be exceptions dur-
Borgarfjörður Eystri ing winter storms); many of the secondary
roads are closed during the colder months.
Take Rte 94 through rhyolite cliffs and down into Check out www.road.is for details of road
this quiet hamlet where there are visiting puffins closures, and www.vedur.is for weather
and superb hiking trails; 150km detour. forecasts.

Vestmannaeyjar Clockwise or
Anticlockwise
Hop on the ferry at Landeyjahöfn to discover a
rugged archipelago of islets; 30km detour plus a It doesn’t matter which way you tackle the
30-minute boat ride each way. Ring Road – the landscape reveals itself
in an equally cinematic fashion from both
Þórsmörk directions.

Park at Seljalandsfoss and take the bus into a If you’re travelling during the latter part
forested kingdom rife with scenic walks; 50km of summer (August into September), we
detour along a rutty road accessible only by certi- recommend driving the loop in a clockwise
fied vehicles; hiking also an option. manner – check off your northern must-
sees first as warmer weather sticks around
The ‘Diamond Circle’ a tad longer in the south.

Dreamed up by marketers, the Diamond Circle
barrels north from Mývatn to take in the whale-
filled bay of Húsavík; the grand canyon and trails
of Ásbyrgi; and the roaring falls at Dettifoss;
180km detour.

37

How Long Do I Need? RING ROAD ADVICE PL A N YO U R TRI P R i n g R o ad P la n n e r
¨¨Don’t confuse the Ring Road,
Driving the Ring Road without stopping which loops the country, with the
(or breaking the speed limit) would take Golden Circle (a tourist route in the
about 16 hours. Thus, a week-long trip country’s southwest).
around the country means an average of ¨¨The Ring Road doesn’t traverse
about 2½ hours of driving per day. While Iceland’s interior – if you’re keen to
this might seem a bit full-on, remember see more, two highland routes cut
that the drive is extraordinarily scenic and through the centre. These roads
in summer there’s plenty of daylight. are only open in summer, and only
to 4WDs; happily, all-terrain buses
We recommend a minimum of 10 days traverse the routes in summer.
to do justice to the Ring Road (two weeks
is better). For travellers planning an itin- engaging in the area’s best activities and
erary that’s less than a week, we suggest detours before moving on.
committing to one or two regions in detail
(eg Reykjavík and the south or west; or a By Bus
week in the north), rather than trying to
hoof it around the island. Far less convenient than car rental, Ice-
land’s limited bus service is the most
By Car cost-effective option for solo travellers. You
should budget double the time of a private
Discovering Iceland by private vehicle is by vehicle to loop around, lest you spend the
far the most convenient way to go though majority of the trip staring at the country-
it is the most expensive option. side through a window.

Renting a Car For comparison, a bus pass that carries
two travellers around the island roughly
It’s best to start planning early if search- equals the price (excluding petrol) of a
ing for low rates. The internet is your best small rental car for a week.
resource, but take care to ensure that the
name of your rental service appears on By Bicycle
your booking, and to double-check that all
fees are included in the quoted price. We don’t want to dash your dreams, but
cyclists will have a tougher time than
Book early for summer hires – compa- expected travelling the Ring Road. The
nies sometimes run out of vehicles. changeable weather makes for tough go-
ing, and although the path is mostly paved,
2WD or 4WD? there is hardly any room on the shoulder of
the road to provide a comfortable distance
A 2WD vehicle is fine if you’re planning from vehicular traffic. Cycling can be a
to drive just the Ring Road and major great way to explore more-rural regions.
secondary roads. If you want to explore the
interior (driving on ‘F’ mountain roads), By Hitching &
you’ll need a 4WD – alternatively, hire a Ridesharing
2WD and book bus trips or super-Jeep
tours to less-accessible areas. The most cost-effective way to venture
around the Ring Road is to stick out your
For winter, we don’t recommend small thumb. In summer it’s quite easy to hitch
2WDs; consider a 4WD for safety (rental all the way around the Ring Road but be
prices are considerably lower in winter). aware of the potential risks involved.
Snow tyres are fitted to winter rentals.
Many hostels have ride-share poster-
Breaking Up the Journey boards in their lobbies. A great resource
is www.samferda.is, an online ride-share
When travelling the Ring Road use it as a messageboard.
conduit to explore memorable detours. We
recommend choosing five mini-bases along
the journey to break up the drive. Try
selecting one stop in each region through
which the Ring Road passes: the west,
north, east, southeast and southwest. You
could spend several nights at each base,

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Landmannalaugar, the start of the Laugavegurinn hike (p151)

Plan Your Trip

Outdoor
Adventures

Iceland’s spectacular natural beauty encompasses Western
Europe’s largest national park and the mightiest ice cap outside
the poles, plus a whale-filled ocean and the world’s biggest puffin
colonies. Prepare to greet soaring mountains, hidden valleys,
dark canyons, roaring waterfalls, twisting rivers and fjord-riven

coastlines. Getting among it is easy, and utterly exhilarating.

39

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r esBest Time to Gothroughout the country. Offers solid advice
on hikes – especially Laugavegurinn.
KOJIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©For multiday hiking Wait for spring thaw;
hiking is at its best from July to mid- Top Short Walks
September. ¨¨Skaftafell Everyone’s favourite part of
For highlands exploration Mountain roads Vatnajökull National Park; offers a slew of short
open sometime from mid-June to early July, walks around glinting glaciers and brooding
and close again by late September or early waterfalls.
October. ¨¨Þórsmörk An emerald kingdom tucked
For midnight sun Around the summer between the unforgiving hills of the interior;
solstice (21 June) the daylight is endless moderate-to-difficult walks abound.
(especially in the north). ¨¨Skógar Hike up into the interior for a parade
For Northern Lights You’ll need dark, clear of waterfalls; continue on to Fimmvörðuháls and
nights; viewings can occur any time between down into Þórsmörk for one of Iceland’s most
about mid-September and April. rewarding day-long hikes.
For skiing The season runs from December ¨¨Snæfellsnes Peninsula Half-day hikes galore
to April, with best conditions (and increasing through crunchy lava fields; don’t miss the
daylight) in February and March. coastal walk from Hellnar to Arnarstapi.
For whale watching Tours operate year- ¨¨Mývatn Flat and easy, the marshy Mývatn
round, with peak viewing from June to lakeshore hosts a variety of geological wonders
August. as well as prolific bird life.
For puffin viewing Peak puffin time is from ¨¨Borgarfjörður Eystri Superb trails among
mid-May to early or mid-August. the rhyolite cliffs, and hikes up to the fjordhead
For icy endeavours Glacier hikes and for views.
snowmobile trips can generally be done
year-round (conditions permitting). Boat Best Multiday Treks
trips are scheduled on Jökulsárlón from April ¨¨Laugavegurinn Iceland’s classic walk takes
to October. Mid-November to March is best you through caramel-coloured dunes, smoking
for ice caving. earth and devastating desert. Duration: two to
For horse riding Multiday treks are great in five days.
the shoulder season (May and September to ¨¨Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss A sampler of Iceland’s
early October) when the weather is cool but geological phenomena starts at the northern end
mild, and visitor numbers are fewer. of Jökulsárgljúfur (in Vatnajökull National Park)
and works its way down the gorge to Europe’s
Activities most powerful waterfall. Duration: two days.
¨¨Royal Horn Words can’t do justice to
Hiking Hornstrandir’s fan-favourite route and the
views of lonely fjords, emerald-green bluffs and
Opportunities for hiking are endless, from swooping gulls. Duration: two to four days.
leisurely hour-long strolls to multiday wil- ¨¨Fimmvörðuháls A parade of waterfalls turns
derness treks. Setting off on foot will open into desert as you pass between hulking glaciers.
up vast reaches of unspoilt nature; how- Then, the steaming stones from the 2010
ever, the unpredictable weather is always eruption appear before the path leads down into
a consideration, and rain, fog and mist flower-filled Þórsmörk. Duration: one to two days.
can turn an uplifting hike into a miserable ¨¨Kerlingarfjöll Loop Largely untouched,
trudge. Always be prepared. this remote interior circuit unveils postcard-
worthy vistas that rival those of well-trodden
Ferðafélag Íslands (www.fi.is) runs Laugavegurinn. Duration: three days.
huts, campgrounds and hiking trips
Wildlife Watching

Iceland’s range of wildlife is small but be-
witchingly beautiful.

Arctic Foxes
Loveable like a dog but skittish like a ro-
dent, the Arctic fox is Iceland’s only native

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es40

HIKING CHECKLIST

The specifics of gear required in Iceland will vary, depending on your activity, the
time of year, the remoteness of the trail, and how long you’ll be exploring (day
hike versus multiday trek; staying in a hut versus camping). One constant: the
changeability of the weather, and the risk it poses.

Some of the following may be obvious to experienced hikers, but there are many
newbies who may feel inspired by the wondrous Icelandic landscapes to get out onto
trails…

Essentials
¨¨Take proper navigation tools; topo map and GPS are vital.
¨¨Dress in layers. This is essential. First base layer: thermal underwear (wool
or synthetic). Second layer: light wool or fleece top; quick-drying trousers. Third
layer: waterproof and windproof jacket (eg Gore-Tex). You’ll need a breathable rain
shell, including waterproof overtrousers. Your daypack should also be waterproof.

¨¨Avoid cotton clothes such as jeans, T-shirts and socks – these lose insulation
properties when wet and take hours to dry. Polypropylene, which is quick-drying
(but can be flammable) or merino wool, which warms even when wet (but dries
slowly), are recommended.

¨¨Take gloves, hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. Woollen or synthetic socks, and
waterproof, broken-in hiking boots or shoes.

For Longer Trips
¨¨Packs need a waterproof cover or a plastic liner to keep things dry. A dry set of
clothes is essential.

¨¨Always carry a first-aid kit, a headlamp/torch and a survival kit (survival blan-
ket, whistle etc).

¨¨Sleeping bags should be capable of handling negative Celsius temperatures.
Campers will need a tent (wind- and weatherproof), stove and cooking utensils
(hut users may or may not need the latter).

¨¨Pack a swimsuit (for hot springs), lightweight sandals (for river crossings, to
keep your boots dry), and hiking poles for steep descents and river crossings.

¨¨Take plastic bags, which are handy for separating wet and dry gear, and for
carrying out rubbish.

Buying or Hiring Gear

You can buy hiking and camping gear in larger towns – Reykjavík is best for this;
Akureyri also has options. Note that prices in Iceland aren’t cheap – consider bring-
ing what you need from home, and/or hiring gear.

A few car-rental places offer camping equipment for rent (this is particularly true
of campervan-hire companies). Otherwise, two good rental places in Reykjavík are
Gangleri Outfitters (www.outfitters.is) and Iceland Camping Equipment (www.
iceland-camping-equipment.com).

mammal. Sightings are rare, but these are a rising number of Arctic foxes hungry for a
the best spots to try your luck: snack.
¨¨Hornstrandir The fox’s main domain – join
the team of researchers who set up camp here Puffins & Seabirds
each summer. On coastal cliffs right around the country
you can see huge numbers of seabirds,
¨¨Suðavík Home of the Arctic Fox Center – often in massive colonies. The best time
there are often orphaned foxes living in a small for birdwatching is between June and mid-
habitat on-site. August, when puffins, gannets, guillemots,
razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars get
¨¨Breiðamerkursandur One of the main twitchers excited.
breeding grounds for skuas, the area has drawn

41

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es

SYLVIA ADAMS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seal, Jökulsárlón (p327)

The best bird cliffs and colonies: outnumbered by countless puffins and Arctic
¨¨Vestmannaeyjar Puffins swarm like frantic terns.
bees as you sail into the harbour at Heimaey. ¨¨Drangey Climbing to the top of this storied
Birds nest on virtually every turret of stone Skagafjörður islet involves ropes, ladders and
emerging from the southern sea. close-ups with puffins, guillemots, gannets and
¨¨Hornstrandir This preserve offers an endless more.
wall of stone that shoots down from the verdant
bluffs straight into the waves – countless birds Seals
have built temporary homes within. Seals aren’t as ubiquitous as Iceland’s
¨¨Borgarfjörður Eystri This hamlet offers one birds, but they’re fun to spot.
of the best places in Iceland to spot puffins, who ¨¨Hvammstangi & Vatnsnes Peninsula A seal
build their intricate homes just metres from the museum, boat tours and a peninsula studded
viewing platform. with basking pinnipeds.
¨¨Látrabjarg Famous in the Westfjords for the ¨¨Ísafjarðardjúp Curling coastline and rock-
eponymous bird cliffs. strewn beaches offer good seal spotting.
¨¨Mývatn A different ecosystem than towering ¨¨Jökulsárlón As if the ice lagoon wasn’t
coastal bird cliffs, Mývatn’s swampy landscape photogenic enough – look out for seals
is a haven for migratory avians. swimming among the bergs.
¨¨Langanes Remote windswept cliffs are ¨¨Húsey This remote, panoramic farm
home to prolific bird life; there’s a new viewing encourages you to do your seal spotting on
platform above a colony of northern gannets. horseback.
¨¨Ingólfshöfði Take a tractor ride to this
dramatic promontory, where skuas swoop and Whales
puffins pose. Iceland is one of the best places in the
¨¨Grímsey Visit for the treat of crossing world to see whales and dolphins. The
the Arctic Circle, and to admire hardy locals most common sightings are of minke and
humpback whales, but you can also spot
fin, sei and blue whales, among others.

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es42 Comprehensive guide to Iceland’s naturally
Iceland’s best spots for whale watching: occurring springs; sold in most bookstores.
¨¨Blue Lagoon (www.bluelagoon.com)
¨¨Húsavík Iceland’s classic whale-watching Iceland’s favourite soaking venue and
destination, complete with an excellent whale undisputed top attraction.
museum; 99% success rate during summer. ¨¨Visit Reykjavík (www.visitreykjavik.is) Click
through to ‘What to Do’ for pools in the region.
¨¨Eyjafjörður Whale-watching cruises ply the
scenic waters of Iceland’s longest fjord from
Akureyri, Dalvík and Hauganes.

¨¨Reykjavík Easy viewing for visitors to the Glacier Walks &
capital; boats depart from the old harbour Snowmobiling
downtown.
Trekking across an icy white expanse can
Horse Riding be one of the most ethereal experiences of
your Iceland visit. The island has several
Horses are an integral part of Icelandic options that offer a taste of winter even on
life and many farms around the country the warmest of days.
offer short rides, including a handful of
stables within a stone’s throw of Reykjavík. Common-sense safety rules apply:
Reckon on around 7000kr or 10,000kr for a don’t get too close to glaciers or walk on
one- or two-hour ride. them without the proper equipment and
guiding.
Best Horse-Riding Regions
¨¨Southern Snæfellsnes The wild beaches Best Glaciers & Ice Caps to Explore
under the shadow of a glinting glacier are ¨¨Vatnajökull Europe’s biggest ice cap is
perfect places for a ride. Several award-winning perfect for snowmobile rides; it also has dozens
stables are located here. of offshoot glaciers primed for guided hikes and
¨¨Hella The flatlands around Hella that roll ice climbs – arrange these from Skaftafell and
under brooding Hekla host many horse ranches points east towards Höfn.
offering multiday rides and short sessions. ¨¨Eyjafjallajökull The site of a volcanic eruption
¨¨Skagafjörður The only county in Iceland in 2010; take a super-Jeep to discover the icy
where horses outnumber people has a proud surface then wander over to Magni, nearby, to
tradition of breeding and training. see the still-steaming earth.
¨¨Snæfellsjökull Jules Verne’s Journey to the
Swimming & Spas Centre of the Earth starts here; try the snowcat
tour from Arnarstapi.
Thanks to Iceland’s abundance of geother- ¨¨Langjökull Close to Reykjavík; draws icy
mal heat, swimming is a national institu- crowds thanks to its new ‘Into the Glacier’ ice-
tion, and nearly every town has at least cave experience.
one sundlaug (heated swimming pool – ¨¨Sólheimajökull An icy tongue unfurling from
generally outdoors). Most pools also offer Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, ideal for an afternoon trek.
heitir pottar (hot-pots; small heated pools
for soaking, with the water around 40°C), Boating, Kayaking & Rafting
saunas and jacuzzis. Admission is usually
around 800kr (half-price for children). A new perspective on Iceland’s natural
treasures is offered from the water.
The clean, chemical-free swimming
pools and natural hot springs require a Best Boating Hot Spots
strict hygiene regimen, which involves a ¨¨Heimaey Zip across the Vestmannaeyjar
thorough shower without swimsuit before archipelago, taking in the craggy cliffs and
you enter the swimming area. Instructions swooping birds.
are posted in a number of languages. Not ¨¨Stykkishólmur Wind through the islands of
following these rules is a sure-fire way to silent Breiðafjörður.
offend the locals.

Best Resources ¨¨Húsavík Traditional wooden ships or high-
¨¨Swimming in Iceland (www. speed zodiacs sail through whale-filled waters.
swimminginiceland.com) Info on Iceland’s
thermal pools. Best Kayaking
¨¨Hornstrandir, Ísafjörður & Ísafjarðardjúp
¨¨Thermal Pools in Iceland – by Jón Sea kayaking at its finest; try multiday tours or a
G Snæland and Þóra Sigurbjörnsdóttir. one-day adventure to Vigur, an offshore islet.

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es43

Top: Horse riding,SANDER VAN DER WERF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Snæfellsnes Peninsula

(p181)
Bottom: Hiker near

Þórsmörk (p152)

ARCTIC-IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es44

SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

We can’t stress this enough: the fast and furious boom in tourism to Iceland is plac-
ing enormous pressure on the local population, the fragile environment, and the
at-times-inadequate infrastructure. Your actions have consequences, so please
endeavour to travel safely and tread lightly.

¨¨Heed local warnings and advice No one is trying to spoil your holiday – when
a local tells you that your car isn’t suitable for a particular road, or an area is off-
limits due to fear of a glacial outburst flood, it’s because they know this country
and what it’s capable of. Be flexible, and change your plans when necessary.

¨¨Recognise your impact The numbers speak for themselves: 330,000 locals
versus 1.3 million tourists in 2015, and an estimated 1.7 million in 2016. You may
think that staying overnight in your campervan by a roadside isn’t a problem. But
it is when thousands of people do it – that’s why there are new laws (p391) ban-
ning it.

¨¨Plan properly Check weather-forecast and road-condition websites (p19).
Pack a good map, the appropriate gear, common sense and a degree of flexibility.
No hiking in jeans, no attempting to cross rivers in small cars, no striding out onto
glaciers without proper guiding and equipment (p40).

¨¨Respect nature Subglacial volcanoes, geothermal areas and vast lava fields
are big draws. That’s why you’re visiting Iceland, no? So take care not to damage
them. If you’ve hired a 4WD, whatever you do, stick to marked trails; off-roading is
illegal and causes irreparable damage to the fragile landscape.

¨¨Travel green Check out www.nature.is – it’s chock-full of amazing tips on trav-
elling sustainably in Iceland, and has an online map and apps with a goal of making
ecofriendly choices easier for everyone.

¨¨Seyðisfjörður The charismatic tour guide will Scuba Diving & Snorkelling
leave you wondering what’s more charming –
the fjord or him. Little-known but incredibly rewarding,
¨¨Heinabergslón Paddle among icebergs on diving in Iceland is becoming increasingly
this spectacular, silent glacier lagoon. popular. The clear water (100m visibility!),
great wildlife, spectacular lava ravines,
Best River Trips wrecks and thermal chimneys make it a
¨¨Varmahlíð Northern Iceland’s white-water dive destination like no other. The best
rafting base, with two glacial rivers to choose dive sites are Silfra at Þingvellir and the
from (family-friendly rapids or full throttle). geothermal chimneys in Eyjafjörður.
¨¨Reykholt White-water rafting thrills on the
Hvítá; you can also get your adrenaline pumping A PADI Dry Suit Diver certificate is
on Iceland’s only jetboat rides. recommended – you can obtain this in
Iceland, through a handful of diving
Cycling companies. The unique PADI Tectonic
Plate Awareness course (designed by Dive.
Short cycling excursions can be a fun, is – www.dive.is) gives you an understand-
healthy way to explore. In Reykjavík you’ll ing of plate tectonics and what it means to
find a couple of biking outlets, some offer- dive between them.
ing day trips to nearby attractions such as
the Golden Circle. Bike hire is possible in Tours
many other towns around the country.
Joining an organised tour may not be
Travelling around Iceland by bicycle your idea of an independent holiday, but
can be more of a challenge than it might Iceland’s rugged terrain and high costs
seem – shifting weather patterns mean can make it an appealing option. Tours can
that you’ll often encounter heavy winds, save you time and money, and can get you
and you’ll be forced to ride closely along- into some stunning but isolated locations
side traffic on the Ring Road (there are no where your hire car will never go. Many
hard shoulders to the roads). tours are by bus, others are by 4WD or

45

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es

NUDIBLUE/SHUTTERSTOCK©

Diving at Silfra (p113)

super-Jeep, and some are by snowmobile, is on offer. And don’t forget to look out for
quad bikes or light aircraft. Most tours the little guys, too.
give you the option of tacking on adven- ¨¨Air Iceland (www.airiceland.is) Iceland’s
ture activities such as white-water rafting, largest domestic airline runs a range of
horse riding and glacier hiking. combination air, bus, hiking and 4WD day tours
around Iceland from Reykjavík and Akureyri.
If you’re planning to base yourself in Also runs tours to Greenland from Reykjavík.
Reykjavík and use day-long tours to ex- ¨¨Arctic Adventures (www.adventures.is)
plore the countryside, it’s vital to note that Specialises in action-filled tours – from straight-
you will spend (dare we say waste) a sig- up sightseeing to mountain biking, sea kayaking
nificant amount of time being transported and even surfing.
from the capital out to the island’s natural ¨¨Grayline Iceland (www.grayline.is) A bus-
treasures. If a series of short tours is what tour operator offering comprehensive day trips
you’re after, you are better off choosing a and plenty of activities.
base in the countryside closer to the at- ¨¨Icelandic Mountain Guides (www.
tractions that pique your interest. Another mountainguides.is) Offers an incredibly diverse
advantage of this approach: sometimes range of activities, plus multiday hiking,
the best and most personalised tours are mountain climbing, biking and skiing tours.
offered by small-scale local operators who Hard-core expeditions, too.
have grown up exploring the ice caves, ¨¨Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is)
glaciers, mountains and/or trails in their Reykjavík’s most popular day-tour agency, with a
backyards, and can give you a real local comprehensive range of year-round tours.
insight (as opposed to large city-based ¨¨Saga Travel (www.sagatravel.is) A company
companies that shuttle busloads to popular with strong ties to north Iceland, and a diverse,
destinations). innovative year-round program of tours from
Reykjavík, Akureyri and Mývatn.
There are hundreds of tour operators in
Iceland, ranging from small scale to large.
The following list represents some of the
largest, most reputable tour operators;
check their websites to get a sense of what

46

Outdoor Activities

PATREKSFJÖRÐUR ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es A laid-back base for exploring the Arctic Circle Stay in or around the Westfjords’
Westfjords’ southern peninsulas: largest town to access Hornstrandir,
crowded bird cliffs at Látrabjarg, the kayak-friendly fjords of
beaches like rosy Rauðasandur and Ísafjarðardjúp and the rugged central
the bike-friendly Þingeyri Peninsula. peninsulas. (p207)
(p201)
SNÆFELLSNES

Denmark Hornstrandir PENINSULA
Strait A gorgeous sampler of all that Iceland

has to offer: hiking trails, horse riding,

Bolungarvík Drangajökull hot springs, boat trips, puffins and
Suðureyri Ísafjörður whales, plus the peninsula’s
namesake glacier. (p181)
Norðurfjörður

Skagafjörður

Þingeyri Húnaflói Drangey

Bíldudalur Skagaströnd Sauðárkrókur
Patreksfjörður
Hólmavík Blönduós

Brjánslækur Hóp Varmahlíð

Flatey Hvammstangi
Breiðafjörður

Stykkishólmur Búðardalur

Hellissandur-Rif Eiriksjökull
Grundarfjörður (1675m)

Ólafsvík Snæfellsnes

KERLINGARFJÖLL Borgarnes Langjökull Kerlingarfjöll

The highlands region is all about 4WD ÞINGVELLIR
trails to remote hiking; this mountain Akranes NATIONAL
range is a hiker's paradise of PARK Geysir Gullfoss
geothermal wonders and multihued
rhyolite mountains. (p343) Faxaflói

REYKJAVÍK Þingvallavatn

Keflavík Kópavogur Hveragerði

Njarðvík Hafnarfjörður Landmannalaugar

Grindavík Selfoss Hella

NORTH Selvogsgrunn Þorlákshöfn Hvolsvöllur
ATLANTIC Eyrarbakkabugur Mýrdalsjökull

OCEAN Eyjafjallajökull (1450m)

REYKJAVÍK

The hub of countless tours and Heimaey Skógar Vík
adventure trips into the hinterlands,
with a focus on the south and west, VESTMANNAEYJAR
and of course, the Golden Circle. Surtsey
(p52)

47

00 100 km
50 miles

AKUREYRI SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR

Iceland's second city is a gateway for A cool, arty base for short and long
tours all over the north, plus whale hikes in waterfall-lined mountains,
watching, horse riding and unique kayaking and sea-angling on calm
scuba diving. The ski fields are a fjord waters, or mountain biking into
wintertime magnet. (p242) scenic valleys. (p297)
PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoo r A dvent u r es
EyjafjörðurGrímsey Arctic Circle

Raufarhöfn

Þistilfjörður

Siglufjörður Flatey Öxarfjörður Þórshöfn

Ólafsfjörður Bakkaflói
Bakkafjörður
Húsavík
JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR Vopnafjörður
Dalvík (VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL

PARK – NORTH)

Dettifoss Vopnafjörður

Akureyri Reykjahlíð
Mývatn

MÝVATN Egilsstaðir Seyðisfjörður

Check out prolific birdlife and a Neskaupstaður
cycle-friendly lakeshore, plus trails
through lava fields to geological Reyðarfjörður Eskifjörður
wonders. Bonus: eaAssykhjaighlands
access via super-Jeep tours. (p259) Fáskrúðsfjörður

Stöðvarfjörður

Hofsjökull Bárðarbunga Breiðdalsvík
(2009m)
Djúpivogur

Grimsvötn Kverkfjöll Stafafell
(1719m) (1860m)
Höfn
Vatnajökull
SKAFTAFELL
SKAFTAFELL This national-park headliner has trails
(VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL aplenty, plus it's a stone's throw to
Vatnajökull's icy treasures: glacier
PARK – SOUTH) hikes, boat trips in ice-filled lagoons,
snowmobiling and ice caves. (p319)
Hvannadalshnúkur
(2110m)
Skaftafell

Kirkjubæjarklaustur

SKÓGAR

The area from Hella to Skógar is tops
for horse riding, waterfalls and forays
to Hekla or the famous Lauga-
vegurinn trail, connecting Landmanna-
laugar and Þórsmörk. (p143)

4 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Regions Southwest Iceland
at a & the Golden
Glance Circle

Reykjavík Landscape
Activities
Culture Wildlife
Nightlife
Easy Escapes Volcanoes & Vistas
Culture Capital If the southwest were to
With miles of nothing but nature all around, Reykjavík print bumper stickers, these
is Iceland’s confirmed repository of all things cultural, would say ‘the further you
from winning museums and sleek gallery spaces to a go, the better it gets’. Wan-
sparkling music scene, a fat year-round festival calendar der into the interior and
and a colourful guild of craftsfolk and designers. you’ll find vistas of mythic
White Nights proportions sitting under
Reykjavík is notorious for its small but fierce nightlife the watchful glare of sev-
scene. The best nights start with coffee at one of the doz- eral grumbling volcanoes.
ens of cafes, ‘pre-gaming’ drinks at a friend’s apartment,
an unholy pilgrimage between several beer bars, and a Hiking, Riding &
late sticky-floored jam to DJs or live music. Vikings
Long Weekends High in the hills a hiker’s
The perfect layover between Europe and North America: paradise awaits, while
urban walking and biking tours take in the capital’s top around Hella are plenty of
sights, but the magic of Iceland unfolds just beyond, and bucolic horse ranches. Toss
the city’s well-oiled travel machine can instantly launch in a smattering of Saga-era
you into the wilderness. relics and you have endless
p52 itinerary fodder for every
type of visitor.

Puffin Magic
The stunning Vestman-
naeyjar archipelago has the
largest colony of puffins
in the world, and the birds
offer a spirited welcome
as they shoot over the ar-
riving ferries like wobbly
firecrackers.

p100