Lonely Planet Iceland

99

HAFNARFJÖRÐUR’S HIDDEN WORLDS Re y k javí k EGKaórtpeiantvgeorguRreykjavík

Many Icelanders believe that their country is populated by hidden races – jarðvergar
(gnomes), álfar (elves), ljósálfar (fairies), dvergar (dwarves), ljúflingar (lovelings), tívar
(mountain spirits), englar (angels) and huldufólk (hidden people). Although some are
embarrassed to say they believe, most refuse to say hand on heart that they don’t be-
lieve. You’ll see many Icelandic gardens feature small wooden álfhól (elf houses).

Hafnarfjörður, 12km south of Reykjavík, is believed to lie at the confluence of several
strong ley lines (mystical lines of energy) and rests on a 7300-year-old flow that, accord-
ing to locals, hides a parallel elfin universe. Visitors walk through Hellisgerði F, a
peaceful park filled with lava grottoes and apparently one of the favourite places of the
hidden people. A 90-minute pricey Hidden Worlds tour (%694 2785; www.alfar.is; per
person kr4500; h2.30pm Tue & Fri) leaves from the tourist office (%585 5500; www.
visithafnarfjordur.is; Strandgata 6; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri), which also sells elf maps. On week-
ends get info at Pakkhúsið.

Hafnarfjörður Museum (%585 5780; http://museum.hafnarfjordur.is) F, the town’s
other main attraction, is divided over several old tin-clad houses near the harbour,
exploring local history. Start at Pakkhúsið (Vesturgata 6; h11am-5pm Jun-Aug, Sat &
Sun Sep-May) F, the primary site. There are hot springs and mud pools and vibrant
mineral lakes south of town in Krýsuvík.

In a pinch, overnight at Lava Hostel & Campsite (%565 0900; www.lavahostel.is;
Hjallabraut 51; campsites per adult/child kr1700/free, dm from kr5400, d without bathroom
kr14,200). Find good eats at popular cafe Súfistinn (%565 3740; www.sufistinn.is; Strand-
gata 9; dishes kr1200-1600; h8.15am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11.30pm Sat, 11am-11.30pm Sun).

Get here on Strætó (www.bus.is) bus 1 (30 minutes from Reykjavík). Other Strætó lines
circulate within the town. The Flybus (%562 1011; www.re.is) to Keflavík International
Airport will stop in Hafnarfjörður if prearranged.

Gerður Helgadóttir hosts excellent rotating v) S This popular local restaurant serves
modern-art exhibitions, and has a notable fresh, large daily specials loaded with
permanent collection of 20th-century Ice- Asian-influenced herbs and spices. Though
landic art. not exclusively vegetarian, it’s a wonderland
of raw and organic foods with your choice
Salurinn CULTURAL BUILDING from a broad bar of elaborate salads, from
root veggies to Greek. There are also branch-
(%441 7500; www.salurinn.is; Hamraborg 6) Ice- es on Laugavegur (p84) and Engjateigur
land’s first specially designed concert hall (p86).
is built entirely from local materials (drift-
wood, spruce and crushed stone) and has
fantastic acoustics. See the website for its 7 Shopping
(mostly classical) concert program.
Smáralind SHOPPING CENTRE

Natural History Museum of (%528 8000; www.smaralind.is; Hagasmára 1,
Kópavogur; h11am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 9pm
Kópavogur MUSEUM

(Náttúrufræðistofa Kópavogs; %441 7200; www. Thu, to 6pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun; g2) Iceland’s larg-
natkop.is; Hamraborg 6a; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu,
11am-5pm Fri, 1-5pm Sat) F This museum est mall. Take bus 2 or its free shuttle May
through August, which leaves from Rey-
explores Iceland’s unique geology and wild- kjavík’s Main Tourist Office and stops off at
life. There’s an orca skeleton, a good col- Kópavogur museums (see schedule online).
lection of taxidermied animals, geological
specimens and some of Mývatn lake’s unu- 88 Getting There & Away
sual Marimo balls.
Strætó (www.bus.is) buses 1 and 2 leave from
5 Eating Hlemmur or Lækjartorg in central Reykjavík, and
bus 4 from Hlemmur, stopping at the Hamraborg
Gló HEALTH FOOD €€ stop in Kópavogur (look for the church). It takes
(www.glo.is; Hæðasmári 6; mains kr1200-2000; about 15 minutes.

h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9pm Sat & Sun;

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Southwest Iceland &
the Golden Circle

Includes  Why Go?

Blue Lagoon.................101 Black beaches stretch along the Atlantic, geysers spout from
Keflavík & Njarðvík geothermal fields and waterfalls glide across escarpments
(Reykjanesbær) . . . . . 105 while brooding volcanoes and glittering ice caps score the
The Golden Circle. . . . 111 inland horizon. The beautiful Southwest has many of Ice-
Þingvellir. . . . . . . . . . . . 111 land’s most legendary natural wonders, so it’s a relatively
Laugarvatn . . . . . . . . . . 114 crowded and increasingly developed area. The Golden Circle
Geysir. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 (a tourist route comprising three famous sights: Þingvellir,
Gullfoss . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Geysir and Gullfoss) draws by far the largest crowds outside
Hveragerði . . . . . . . . . 120 of Reykjavík, but visit during off-hours or venture further
Stokkseyri. . . . . . . . . . 124 afield and you’ll find awe-inspiring splendour.
Selfoss. . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Hvolsvöllur . . . . . . . . . 138 The further you go the better it gets. Tourist faves such as
Skógar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 the silica-filled Blue Lagoon and the rift valley and ancient
Landmannalaugar . . . 146 parliament at Þingvellir are just beyond the capital. Churn-
Laugavegurinn Hike. . 148 ing seas lead to the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago offshore. At
Þórsmörk. . . . . . . . . . . 152 the region’s far reaches lie the powerful Hekla and Eyjafjal-
Vík. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 lajökull volcanoes, busy Skógar and Vík, and the hidden val-
Heimaey. . . . . . . . . . . . 163 leys of Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar.

Best Places to Eat Road Distances (km)

¨¨Slippurinn (p169) Selfoss 100
Gullfoss 156 71
¨¨Við Fjöruborðið (p125) Landmannalaugar 230 130 147
Vík 226 130 177 218
¨¨Lindin (p115) Reykjavík 51 57 113 185 186

¨¨Efstidalur II (p115) Keflavík
Selfoss
Best Places to Stay Gullfoss
Landmannalaugar
¨¨River Hotel (p136) Vík
¨¨Julia’s Guesthouse (p125)
¨¨Fljótsdalur HI Hostel (p141)
¨¨Hótel Rangá (p137)

101

Reykjanes Peninsula 0 20 km
0 10 miles

Faxaflói Seltjarnarnes 1 Borgarnes
REYKJAVÍK Kópavogur (45km)

Álftanes Garðabær 1

Bessastaðir

Garðskagi Hafnarfjörður

Garður Búrfellshraun
420
Miðnes 45 Bláfjalla-
417 fólkvangur
Sandgerði 42
Keflavík Internatio4n29al
Airport Keflavík 41 Reykjanesfólkvangur So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le BGR el uyttke ijLnaagngeToshoePnreen i&nsAuwlaay
Vogar National
Ytri-Njarðvík Keilir Park
Innri-Njarðvík (379m) Núpshliðarháls
Old US Sveiflu4hálWsD only
Military Base Kleifarvatn
45 44 Seltjörn
42

Hafnir Blue 428 Seltún Hliðarvatn
425 Lagoon 43
Grænavatn 427

100 Crater Krýsuvík
Park 427 Geothermal Area
Hafnaberg Þorlákshöfn
Cliffs Bridge Between 426 (19km)
Two Continents Grindavík Selatangar Krýsuvíkurberg
Cliffs
Gunnuhver 425
Hot Spring NORTH
Valahnúkur Hópsnes ATLANTIC
Reykjanesviti Víkur
Reykjanestá OCEAN

REYKJANES PENINSULA 88 Getting There & Away

The Reykjanes Peninsula expands in Public transport to Keflavík and the Blue Lagoon
drama as you move away from the high- is fast and frequent from Reykjavík. There is
way between Reykjavík and Keflavík In- limited public bus service to other villages, but
ternational Airport. You’ll find not only you’ll do best with private transport to reach the
the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous more remote parts of the peninsula.
attraction, but numerous other gorgeous
and interesting sights, many of them based Blue Lagoon
around active volcanoes. The busiest towns
are no-frills Keflavík and nearby Njarðvík, As the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, so the Blue
but the sweet, windswept fishing hamlets Lagoon is to Iceland…with all the positive
of Garður and Sandgerði – great for whale and negative connotations implied. Those
watching – are just minutes to the west of who say it’s too commercial and too crowd-
the airport on a small northwestern spur. ed aren’t wrong, but you’ll be missing some-
The rest of the Reykjanes, from dramatic thing special if you don’t go.
Reykjanestá in the southwest to the Rey-
kjanesfólkvangur wilderness reserve in the 2 Activities
east, is an untamed landscape of multi-
hued volcanic craters, mineral lakes, bub- oBlue Lagoon GEOTHERMAL POOL
bling hot springs, rugged mountains and
coastal lava fields. (Bláa Lónið; %420 8800; www.bluelagoon.com;
adult/child Jun-Aug from €50/free, Sep-May from
The Reykjanes Peninsula is a Unesco €40/free; h8am-midnight Jun–mid-Aug, reduced
Global Geopark (www.reykjanesgeopark. hours mid-Aug–May) In a magnificent black-
is), formed to research and protect the lava field, the milky-teal Blue Lagoon spa
region’s unusual geology (pillow lava! is fed water from the futuristic Svartsen-
oceanic ridge! meeting of tectonic plates! gi geothermal plant; with its silver towers,
four volcanic systems!) and local culture. roiling clouds of steam, and people daubed

102 1

47 550

Akranes Þingvellir

National Park Efstadalsfjall
Kálfstindar (627m)
SHSGaaHanaCnf4Krdandð5legfiavsnffebkífMlirkarsaeð4vrgi2iðgíGi5kAnaLeIir4nrsGaðp42t4u5georBirrKornNntFledouajfaaantelaivrxoðvíaknví4kfaí3lHklóóiPRVpees4oSnny1ge4ieklan2tsj0rsjaaunrlneasaÁ(rK3lnf7eet9aislnm4i2erCK)8slriýfSsf4sue24lv7M2KtRíú4ko1lEnDu4efRsYó1rNifoe7bfelKmakyPaellJvktrsraeiAgbajvrosaknæVantnigatcrÍRenulKsaAr-uirfpaorÞShroktó(r7állsá7lhak14fesme3lh3l1l5)iöl9r3f6nFHlNNóvúeSiRespkNre3jH(aáaas87aglrveea6tee3nrub38ÞvS6rlgr4rlmð0eeitieironilk)lkLÖgkkSjPavlóstfaoeausEIwyltas3nyil3rfao6ae(rgi3o350an3r6vós54r1salb1ftas3mnÚfk6Hj)k3aSlr6filG(ealFl7jlfalóf6nóHouta3a3s3slvh6bvmv5sVí5rejateö)áartpjrKntapgneSsu3skrvrAL0hióíBð5apnolruiaaljt3ágv3vS0n7aaa2óLsrttlsanvnhtuaeatgiðSnmaikrraáá1rlsh3o30335l17t5
ÞjórsáNúpshliðarh4álWsD only
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ABRceltuy kievjLiatanigeeossoPne n i ns u l a
Reykjanesviti Eyrarbakkabugur

Ferry Route (Alternative) Hólsá

252

NORTH
ATLANTIC

OCEAN

Surtsey

0 30 km
0 15 miles

Southwest Iceland & Golden Circle Highlights

1 Þingvellir (p111) columns, sea stacks and rocky 4 Vestmannaeyjar
Seeing the continental plates buttes near buzzy Vík. (p163) Setting sail to see
part at historic Þingvellir 3 Þórsmörk (p152) zippy puffins and a small town
National Park. Camping in a lush kingdom tucked between lava flows.
2 Reynisfjara (p155) surrounded by brooding 5 Þjórsárdalur (p134)
Marvelling at black basalt glaciers. Exploring a volcanic valley

Kerlingarfjöll 103
F338 (45km)

Bjarnarfell F35
(727m)
Haukadalur Gullfoss
Geysir - Laxá Þjórsá
30 Brattholt Þórisvatn
Stóra
35 Brúarhlöð F26 Lítlisjór
Langisjór
Háifoss Sultartangalón
F235
30 Gjáin Bláskógar
358 Hydroelectric
Reykholt Stöng Plant 26 Hrauneyjar
32
Búrfell Hydroelectric
Power Station 26
Flúðir Þjóðveldisbærinn F208
32
30 So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ABRceltuy kievjLiatanigeeossoPne n i ns u l a
Hjálparfoss Búrfell Höl msá
Árnes (669m) F225 Veiðivötn

Þjórsárdalur 26 Fjallabak Landmannalaugar Eldgjá

Leirubakki Hekla Nature Jökuldalur
(1491m) Reserve
Laugaland 272Ytri-Rangá268 Kirkjufell
F208

Vatnafjöll Laufafell

26Á4Rrbaangkákrivellir Torfajökull

271 F210 Álftavatn
Hella
Keldur Tindfjallajökull
264 Tindfjöll F210
266 (1251m) F261

Hvolsvöllur Kirkjubæjarklaustur
(22km)
252 261 Hlíðarendi
255
MarkarfljóFtlFjó24t9sdaVlualrahnúkuÞrórsmörk Mýrdalsjökull
(282m)
250 249 Gljúfurárbui Katla
(1250m)
Seljalandsfoss Eyjafjallajökull
Sólheimajökull
253 254 1 Ásólfsskáli Mælifell Hafursey
Skógaheiði (642m) (582m)
Bakki 247
Skógafoss
Landeyjahöfn Skógar 221 1 Álftaver

Ferry Route Mýrdalssandur

Heimaey 219 Brekkur
Vestmannaeyjar Petursey
215 Vík Hjörleifshöfði
Reynisfjara (221m)

Dyrhólaey

of raw terrain carved by the 7 Blue Lagoon (p101) Geysir, which gave its name to
powerful Þjórsá river. Washing away your cares at geysers the world over.
6 Landmannalaugar the Vegas version of Icelandic 9 Waterfalls (p117)
(p146) Traversing hot-pots. Tracking brilliant cascades
multicoloured peaks past 8 Geysir (p116) Waiting from Háifoss, Seljalandsfoss
pristine lakes, then hiking the for water to shoot skywards at and Skógafoss to the most
Laugavegurinn. famous of them all, Gullfoss.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TBRoel uy kerjsLaangeosoPne n i ns u l a104

TOP TIPS FOR THE BLUE LAGOON

¨¨Pre-booking is essential and there is an hourly cap on admissions.
¨¨Avoid the summertime mayhem (worst from 10am to 2pm); try to go first thing or after
7pm. You can stay in the complex for half an hour after closing.
¨¨You must practise standard Iceland pool etiquette: thorough naked pre-pool
showering.
¨¨Going to the lagoon on a tour or in transit to the airport can sometimes save time
and money. By bus, Reykjavík Excursions (%580 5400; www.re.is) connects Keflavík
International Airport, the Blue Lagoon and Reykjavík.
¨¨At the car park you’ll find a luggage check (kr600 per bag, per day); perfect if you’re
going to the lagoon on your way to/from the airport.

in white silica mud, it’s an other-worldly 4 Sleeping
place. Pre-booking is essential.
The Blue Lagoon has a modern hotel with
The superheated water (70% sea water, a new five-star hotel under construction,
30% fresh water, at a perfect 38°C) is rich slated to open in 2017. There is one other
in blue-green algae, mineral salts and fine hotel nearby, or stay in Reykjavík or towns
silica mud, which condition and exfoliate along the Reykjanes Peninsula.
the skin – sounds like advertising speak,
but you really do come out as soft as a Blue Lagoon – Silica Hotel HOTEL €€€
baby’s bum. The water is hottest near the (%420 8806; www.bluelagoon.com; d incl breakfast
vents where it emerges, and the surface is kr51,600; pis) The Blue Lagoon’s chic ho-
several degrees warmer than the bottom. tel is a 600m walk across the lava field from
Iceland’s most famous attraction. The 35
The lagoon has been developed for vis- rooms are soothing and sleek, with heated-
itors, with an enormous, modern complex floor bathrooms, and each has a small porch
of changing rooms, restaurants, a rooftop for viewing the surrounding moonscape.
viewpoint and a gift shop, and landscaped The hotel has its own pool of blue lagoon
with hot-pots, steam rooms, a sauna, a bar water. Rates include entry to Blue Lagoon.
and a piping-hot waterfall that delivers a
powerful hydraulic massage – like being Northern Light Inn HOTEL €€€
pummelled by a troll. A VIP section has (%426 8650; www.northernlightinn.is; s/d incl
its own interior wading space, lounge and breakfast kr28,500/37,500; pi) Spacious, styl-
viewing platform. Construction of an ex- ish rooms line the lava field at this bunga-
panded spa and five-star hotel is due to be low hotel. There’s a sunny sitting room, and
completed in 2017. free (from 7am to 9pm) transfers to Keflavík
airport and the lagoon (the lagoon is only
For extra relaxation, you can lie on a 1km away). The on-site Max’s Restaurant
floating mattress and have a massage ther- (mains kr2900-5300; hnoon-9.30pm) boasts
apist knead your knots (30/60 minutes a smattering of Nordic fare, and floor-to-
€75/120). You must book spa treatments ceiling windows look out over lava and the
well in advance. Towel or bathing-suit hire steam-spewing geothermal plant.
is €5.
5 Eating & Drinking
The complex is just off the road between
Keflavík and Grindavík. Blue Café CAFE €
(snacks kr1000-2100; h8am-midnight Jun–
T Tours mid-Aug, reduced hours mid-Aug–May) Simple,
cafeteria-style eating at the Blue Lagoon,
In addition to the spa opportunities at the with smoothies, sandwiches and pre-made
Blue Lagoon, you can combine your visit sushi.
with package tours, or hook up with near-
by ATV Adventures (p109) for quad-bike LAVA Restaurant ICELANDIC €€€
or cycling tours (kr9900 from the Blue (%420 8800; www.bluelagoon.com; mains lunch/
Lagoon through the lava fields) or bicycle dinner kr4500/5900; h11.30am-9.30pm Jun-Aug,
rental. The company can pick you up and
drop you off at the lagoon.

to 8.30pm Sep-May) The Blue Lagoon’s cavern-

105

ous dining room can feel like a function hall, oDuushús MUSEUM
but views to the lagoon are serene, the wait-
staff are excellent and the menu features (%421 3796; Duusgata 2-8; adult/child kr1500/
Iceland’s favourite dishes. free; hnoon-5pm) In a long red warehouse by
the harbour, Duushús is Keflavík’s historic
88 Getting There & Away cultural centre. There’s a permanent exhi-
bition of around 60 of Grímur Karlsson’s
The lagoon is 47km southwest of Reykjavík many hundreds of miniature ships, made
and 23km southeast of Keflavík International over a lifetime, as well as Reykjanes Art Mu-
Airport. The complex is just off the road between seum galleries with international art exhibi-
Keflavík and Grindavík. Bus services run year- tions, and a changing local-history display.
round, as do tours (which sometimes offer better
deals than a bus ticket plus lagoon admission). Icelandic Museum of Rock ‘n’ Roll MUSEUM So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le RKGe fytltkaijnvagínkeT&sh eNPrej eanri&nðsAvuwí klaay( R e y k j a n e sb æ r )
You must book in advance. If your bus or tour (Rokksafn Íslands; %420 1030; www.rokksafn.is;
does not include lagoon entry, you must pre- Hjallavegur 2; admission kr1500; h11am-6pm Mon-
book at www.bluelagoon.com. Sat) This museum delves into the history of
the awesome Icelandic music scene, from
Blue Lagoon partners with Reykjavík Excur- Björk to Sigur Rós and Of Monsters and
sions (www.re.is), which runs buses to the lagoon Men. Admission includes an audio guide
from/to Reyjavík and from/to the airport. With with music. There’s also the Music Hall of
frequent buses (10 to 16 daily June to August; Fame, instruments for you to jam on, a cafe,
see www.bluelagoon.com for details), you can do and a shop where you can stock up on local
a round trip from either Reykjavík or the airport, tunes.
or stop off at the lagoon on your way between
the two. These bus tickets can be booked when 1 Njarðvík
you book lagoon entry.
Bustravel (%511 2600; www.bustravel.is) also oVíkingaheimar MUSEUM
runs transfers from the airport or Reykjavík
(kr3900). (Viking World; %422 2000; www.vikingahei
mar.is; Víkingabraut 1; adult/child kr1500/free;
Keflavík & Njarðvík h7am-6pm) At the eastern end of Njarðvík’s
(Reykjanesbær) waterfront, the spectacular Víkingaheimar
is a Norse exhibition centre built in one
POP 15,240 beautiful, sweeping architectural gesture.
The centrepiece is the 23m-long Íslendin-
The twin towns of Keflavík and Njarðvík, gur, an exact reconstruction of the Viking
on the coast about 47km southwest of Rey- Age Gokstad longship. It was built almost
kjavík, are both rather ungainly expanses single-handedly by Gunnar Marel Eggerts-
of suburban boxes and fast-food outlets. son, who then sailed it from Iceland to New
Together they’re known as ‘Reykjanesbær’. York in 2000 to commemorate the 1000th
Don’t stay here unless you’ve an early flight; anniversary of Leif the Lucky’s journey to
it’s worth the 40-minute ride into Reykjavík. America.

1 Sights Stekkjarkot HISTORIC BUILDING

1 Keflavík (h1-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, by appointment Sep-
May) F On the point near Víkingaheimar,
The waterfront strip in Keflavík has most tiny folk museum Stekkjarkot is a restored
of the town’s hotels and restaurants, and turf house, abandoned in 1924, with parts
also the museum Duushús. To the east on dating to the 19th century.
the seashore is an impressive Ásmundur
Sveinsson sculpture, used as a climbing 2 Activities
frame by the local kids. Just beyond, on the
edge of the little harbour, find a black cave Swimming Pool SWIMMING
where a larger-than-life Giantess (Skes-
sa; Gróf small boat harbour; h1-5pm Sat & Sun) (%420 1500; Sunnubraut 31; adult/child kr700/
F, a character from Herdís Egilsdóttir’s free; h6.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 9am-5pm
children’s books, sits in a rocking chair. Sat & Sun) Keflavík has a good 25m outdoor
swimming pool with hot tubs, a sauna and a
50m indoor pool.

106 e#0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
Keflavík BC D
A
Sandgerði (7km); D 6 1
Garður (7km) D BB›#uaskÿ#1k2SamHú#veaagrlRlbu-eroByuokrajatá#3nes Tourist Faxaflói
Grófin SBK ï# Information Centre
1 Vesturbraut 2

Hafnargata1 â# Duushús
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KirkjuvegurVesturgata 2

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le RKF e sfytlkiajvvaaínlkes&s&NPEejvaneri nðstvsuí kl a( R e y k j a n e sb æ r) Hringbraut #á

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Vínbúðin (200m); D
Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll (700m);
Stekkjarkot (3.5km); Víkingaheimar (3.8km)

ABC

Keflavík 7 Hótel Keflavík ...........................................C3
8 Hótel Keflavík Guesthouse .....................D3
æ Top Sights 9 Nupan Deluxe...........................................B2
1 Duushús .................................................... B1 10 Svítan Guesthouse & Apartments ........B2
ú Eating
æ Sights 11 Fernando's ...............................................C3
2 Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture ........... C2 12 Kaffi Duus ................................................. B1
3 Giantess .................................................... C1 13 Olsen Olsen ..............................................C3
14 Thai Keflavík.............................................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife
4 Swimming Pool ....................................... B4
Paddy's ............................................ (see 11)
ÿ Sleeping
5 CB Guesthouse ....................................... C3
6 Hótel Berg ................................................. B1

z Festivals & Events finale, when waterfalls of fireworks pour
over the Bergið cliffs.
Night of Lights CULTURAL
4 Sleeping
(Ljósanótt í Reykjanesbæ; www.ljosanott.is; hSep)
If you’re around at the beginning of Septem- Check www.visitreykjanes.is for accommo-
ber, the well-attended Night of Lights fes- dation; many hotels in the area provide free
tival is worth seeing, particularly its grand airport transfers.

107

Svítan Guesthouse & SOUTHWEST RESOURCES

Apartments APARTMENT € South Iceland Tourist Information
(%663 1269; www.svitan.is; Túngata 10; d incl (www.south.is) Has a thorough print
breakfast kr12,000, apt from kr16,200) Choose booklet and excellent free detailed maps
from simple guest rooms or fully furnished for each sub-region. Get them at local
apartments at this centrally located (and re- tourist offices.
cently renovated) historic building. Rooms
have kitchen and terrace access, and some Visit Reykjanes (www.visitreykjanes.is)
have private bathrooms. Information on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

CB Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €
(%786 0577; Hafnargata 56; s/d without bathroom
from kr9300/12,000; p) CB Guesthouse offers screen TVs. Superior rooms are bigger, with
straightforward, tidy rooms on the main two double beds. So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le KRE aetfyliknajgvaín&keD&srNPi nejkanri nðsgvuí kl a( R e y k j a n e sb æ r )

street in Keflavík, as well as kitchen and ter-
race access.
5 Eating & Drinking

Hótel Keflavík Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € Fernando’s PIZZERIA €
(www.hotelkeflavik.is; Vatnsnesvegur 9; d without (%557 1007; www.facebook.com/fernandospizza;
bathroom kr12,600) This small guesthouse is a Hafnargata 36; pizzas kr1300-2900; h11am-10pm
basic annexe to the Hótel Keflavík and offers Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu & Fri, 2-11pm Sat, 4-10pm
very simple rooms with shared bathrooms. Sun) This simple eatery is the local favour-
There’s a microwave available. ite for wood-fired pizza. There’s also a basic

Hótel Berg B&B €€ burger, salad and pasta menu.

(%422 7922; www.hotelberg.is; Bakkavegur 17; d Olsen Olsen FAST FOOD €
incl breakfast from kr27,600; i) This homey
guesthouse overlooking a little inlet harbour (%421 4457; www.olsenolsendiner.com; Hafnar-
gata 62; mains kr1000-2700; h11am-10pm) In
has common spaces with charming touches, the 1950s, thanks to American-introduced
and modern rooms with flat-screen TVs and
original photography on the walls. It’s locat- rock and roll, Keflavík was the coolest place
in Iceland. This US-style diner transports
ed at the northern (and most charming) end locals back to the glory days, with shiny sil-
of Keflavík, and is a wonderfully welcoming
place to stay. ver tables, red plastic seats and pictures of
Elvis.

Nupan Deluxe B&B €€ Kaffi Duus SEAFOOD, INDIAN €€
(%565 3333; www.hotelnupan.com; Aðalgata 10; s
without bathroom incl breakfast kr12,200, d/tr incl (%421 7080; www.duus.is; Duusgata 10, Duushús;
mains kr2750-5000; h11am-11pm) This friendly,
breakfast kr25,200/28,800) Sleek, clean and sim- nautical-themed cafe-restaurant-bar, deco-
ple is the order of the day at this residential-
area B&B on the main drag out of town. It rated with walrus tusks, overlooks the small-
boat harbour. It serves generous platefuls of
has a hot tub. fresh fish, plus pasta, salads, burgers and,

Hótel Keflavík HOTEL €€ incongruously, Indian food. It’s a popular
evening hang-out.
(%420 7000; www.hotelkeflavik.is; Vatnsnesve-
gur 12-14; d/f incl breakfast kr24,500/41,600; i)
Serviceable, central rooms, some with ocean Thai Keflavík THAI €€
(%421 8666; www.thaikeflavik.is; Hafnargata 39;
views; rates vary wildly online. The hotel mains kr1900-2800; h11.30am-10pm Mon-Fri,
also runs a small guesthouse (p107) across
the street, with simple rooms and shared 4-10pm Sat & Sun) With authentic Thai dishes,
this restaurant is a great choice if you’re up
bathrooms. to your eyeballs with fish and lamb. There’s

Airport Hotel Aurora Star HOTEL €€€ outdoor seating during warm weather.

(%595 1900; www.hotelairport.is; Blikavöllur 2, Paddy’s BAR
Keflavík International Airport; s/d/tr incl breakfast
kr30,500/33,000/39,000; pi) The only hotel (%421 8900; Hafnargata 38; h6pm-1am Mon-Thu,
to 4.30am Fri, noon-4.30am Sat, noon-1am Sun)
actually at the airport, Hotel Aurora Star is A hole-in-the-wall that can get raucous at
about 100m from the terminal and offers a
tower of solid business-style rooms with flat- weekends and has occasional live music.

108 wheels. Strætó bus 89 goes from Keflavík
to Garður and Sandgerði.
7 Shopping

Vínbúðin ALCOHOL

(%421 5699; Krossmói 4; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, Garður
to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) National liquor chain.
POP 1430
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le SR he yokpjpai nge s P e n i ns u l a 88 Information
From Keflavík, if you follow Rte 41 for 9km,
Reykjanes Tourist Information Centre through the village of Garður (www.svgar
(% 420 3246; www.visitreykjanes.is; Duusgata dur.is), you’ll reach beautiful wind-bat-
2-8, Keflavík; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm tered Garðskagi headland, one of the
Sat & Sun) Reykjanes Peninsula information, best places in Iceland for birdwatchers. It’s
maps and brochures; inside the Duushús a big breeding ground for seabirds, and
(p105). it’s often the place where migratory spe-
cies first touch down. It’s also possible to
88Getting There & Away see seals (and maybe whales) from here,
as well as offering superb views over the
AIR ocean to Snæfellsjökull.
Apart from flights to Greenland and the Faroes,
all of Iceland’s international flights use Keflavík Two splendid lighthouses, one tall and
International Airport (p400). one tiny, add drama, and you can get near-
360-degree sea views from the tall one.
To/From the Airport The small folk museum (Byggdasafn; %422
Most of Reykjanesbær’s lodgings offer free 7220; www.svgardur.is; Skagabraut 100; h1-5pm
transfers to/from Keflavík International Airport Apr-Oct) is filled with a pleasing mishmash
for guests. A taxi costs about kr5000; call Air- of fishing boats, birds’ eggs and sewing
port Taxi (% 420 1212; www.airporttaxi.is) or machines.
Hreyfill Taxi (% 588 5522; www.hreyfill.is).
There’s a tranquil, free camping area by
BUS the lighthouse, with toilets and fresh wa-
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: ter, plus several guesthouses in town.
¨¨Bus 55 goes between Keflavík airport and
BSÍ bus terminal in Reykjavík (adult/child There is occasionally a cafe open at the
kr1680/840, 1¼ hours, nine daily Monday to lighthouses, but Sandgerði, Keflavík and
Friday). On Saturday (nine daily) and Sunday Grindavík offer more choice.
(seven daily) buses only go as far east as
Hafnarfjörður. Sandgerði & Around
¨¨Bus 88 goes from Keflavík to Grindavík
(kr420, two daily, 20 minutes). On weekends POP 1540
it only goes from Grindavík to the crossroads
where you can connect to bus 55. Sandgerði is an industrious fishing village,
¨¨Bus 89 goes from Keflavík to Garður and 5 km south of Garður. There are pleas-
Sandgerði (both services kr420, 11 daily Mon- ant beaches on the coast south of Sandg-
day to Friday, four Saturday, three Sunday). erði, and the surrounding marshes are
frequented by more than 190 species of
Airport buses can also drop you near the town birds.
limits.
1 Sights

88Getting Around Sudurnes Science & Learning

SBK Bus (% 420 6000; www.sbk.is; Grófin 2-4, Center MUSEUM
Keflavík) SBK runs local buses around Keflavík.
(%423 7551; www.thekkingarsetur.is; Gerðavegur
1; adult/child kr600/300; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri,
1-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 10am-2pm Mon-Fri
Oct-Apr) This scientific learning centre has
a fascinating exhibit about Polar explorer
Northwestern Reykjanes Jean-Baptiste Charcot, whose ship Pour-
quoi Pas? wrecked near here in 1936 (all
The western edge of the Reykjanes Peninsu- but one sailor perished). There are original
la is rugged and exposed – perfect if you love artefacts from the wreck and memorabilia.
wild rain-lashed cliffs and beaches. There Other displays include stuffed and jarred
are several fishing villages and some sights Icelandic creatures (look out for the wal-
among the lava fields. rus) and a small aquarium.

To best see the countryside around
Northwestern Reykjanes bring your own

5 Eating 109

oVitinn SEAFOOD €€ area. This includes the hot spring Gunnu-
(%423 7755; www.vitinn.is; Vitatorg 7; mains hver, named after the witch-ghost Gunna,
kr2000-4300; h11.30am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat) who was trapped by magic and lured into
the boiling water to her death.

Vitinn is not to be missed. A friendly team
serves heaps of seafood (stored in tanks
out back in the courtyard) in marine-fancy Grindavík
surrounds. The crab and shellfish bisque is
delicious. POP 3130

Southwestern Reykjanes The only settlement on the south coast of So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le RSE aoetyuiktnjhgawneesstPeern i nRse yukl jaa n e s
Reykjanes, Grindavík is one of Iceland’s
The southwestern tip of the Reykjanes Pen- most important fishing centres. Here, all
insula is a wild and interesting landscape flimflam is rejected in favour of working
of volcanic terrain surrounding the rift be- jetties, cranes and warehouses, though its
tween the North American and European proximity to the Blue Lagoon has drawn
tectonic plates. more tourism in recent years.

Visit the area with your own wheels. 1 Sights
There is no public transport.
Kvíkan MUSEUM
1 Sights
(Magma; %420 1190; www.visitgrindavik.is; Haf-
If you turn off Rte 41 onto Rte 44 just out- nargata 12a; adult/child kr1200/free; h10am-5pm)
side Keflavík, you’ll reach the bird cliffs at Grindavík’s only tourist attraction is Kvíkan,
Hafnaberg, then the Bridge Between Two a museum with two exhibits: a well-curated
Continents, where a teeny footbridge spans one on the fish-salting industry, and another
a sand-filled gulf between the North Ameri- about the earth’s energy.
can and European plates.
T Tours
In the far southwest of the peninsula the
landscape alternates between lava fields ATV Adventures QUAD-BIKE TOUR
and wild volcanic crags and craters, thus
it’s been named 100 Crater Park. Several (%857 3001; www.atv4x4.is) The major provid-
power plants here exploit geothermal heat er for quad-bike rides around the peninsula:
to produce salt from seawater and to pro- explore lava fields and see shipwrecks (from
vide electricity for the national grid. Power kr13,000 per seat for a two-person self-drive
Plant Earth (Orkuverið Jörð; %436 1000; www. buggy; driver’s licence required). Also runs
hsorka.is; Reykjanesvirkjun Power Plant; adult/child cycling tours from Blue Lagoon (kr9900)
kr1500/1000; h9am-4pm May-Aug) is an inter- and has bicycle rental (four/24 hours
active exhibition about energy. You also get kr4900/6900 or kr5900 for four hours with
a glimpse into the vast, spotless turbine hall, Blue Lagoon delivery).
and there are scaled representations of the
planets positioned around the peninsula. Arctic Horses HORSE RIDING

One of the most wild and wonderful spots (%848 0143; www.arctichorses.is; Hópsheiði 16)
on the peninsula is Valahnúkur, where a Small, family-run outfit with horse rides
winding road leads off Rte 425 through along the peninsula. The popular lighthouse
13th-century lava fields. Turn right at the tour (adult/child kr8000/5000) lasts one to
T-intersection and go 900m on an unpaved 1½ hours.
road to dramatic, climb-able cliffs and Rey-
kjanesviti lighthouse (1878), the oldest in Salty Tours TOURS
Iceland.
(%820 5750; www.saltytours.is) Day tours of
From Valahnúkur and the nearby coast Reykjanes (kr10,900) and beyond. Picks up
you can see the flat-topped rocky islet Eldey, at the airport or from Reykjavík.
14km offshore, home to the world’s largest
gannet colony and a protected bird reserve. 4 Sleeping

If you take the left branch of the afore- Grindavík has good lodging, and is a quick
mentioned T-intersection, in 500m you drive to the Blue Lagoon, so it’s an increas-
reach a steaming multicoloured geothermal ingly popular place to sleep over.

Mar Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €
(%856 5792; www.marguesthouse.is; Hafnarga-
ta 28; d without bathroom kr13,000, studios from
kr21,000) Some of these modern, newly built

110

guest rooms with shared bathrooms, and Reykjanesfólkvangur
studios with kitchenettes, have harbour National Park
views. Everything is tidy, staff are helpful,
and there’s kitchen and laundry access for For a taste of Iceland’s raw countryside, visit
all. this 300-sq-km wilderness reserve, a mere
40km from Reykjavík. Established in 1975,
Guesthouse Borg GUESTHOUSE € the reserve protects the elaborate lava for-
(%895 8686; www.guesthouseborg.com; Bor- mations created by the dramatic Reykjanes
garhraun 2; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast ridge volcanoes. Its three show pieces are
kr9500/14,500; i) Borg is an older home Kleifarvatn, a deep mineral lake with sub-
in the centre of town with the cosiness of merged hot springs and black-sand beaches;
‘grandma’s place’. Kitchen and laundry the spitting, bubbling Krýsuvík geother-
access. mal zone at Seltún; and the Southwest’s
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le RE aetyiknjga n e sfPóelnkivnasnugl ua r N at i o n a l Pa rk largest bird cliffs, the epic Krýsuvíkurberg.
Campsite CAMPGROUND € The whole area is criss-crossed by walking
(%660 7323; www.visitgrindavik.is; Austurve- trails. Get good maps at Keflavík, Grindavík
gur 26; sites per adult/child k1289/free; hmid- or Hafnarfjörður tourist offices. You’ll see
May–Sep) Grindavík’s fresh-faced campsite parking turnouts at the head of the most
near the harbour is a patch of green with popular walks, including the loop around
good amenities, including barbecues and a Kleifarvatn, and the tracks along the craggy
playground. Sveifluháls and Núpshliðarháls ridges.

5 Eating There is no public transport within the
wilds of the park, so either come with your
oBryggjan CAFE € own wheels, or on one of the many guided
(%426 7100; Miðgarður 2; cakes kr850, soup tours on offer.
kr1600-2000; h8am-11pm) Facing the harbour
front, in a block of warehouses, this ador-
able cafe serves up homemade cakes and 1 Sights & Activities
light meals amid framed photos, old fishing
buoys and locals relaxing in the sunshine. Kleifarvatn LAKE

This deep, brooding lake sits in a volcanic
fissure, surrounded by wind-warped lava
Papa’s SEAFOOD €€ cliffs and black-sand shores. A walking trail
(%426 9955; Hafnargata 7; mains kr1600-3200;
h11.30am-9pm) Fish and chips at Papa’s are a runs around the edge, offering dramatic
views and the crunch of volcanic cinders
treat, although you’ll also find locals crowd- underfoot. Legend has it that a wormlike
ing in for pizza and burgers.
monster the size of a whale lurks below the
surface – but the poor creature is running
Salthúsið SEAFOOD €€ out of room, as the lake has been shrinking
(%426 9700; www.salthusid.is; Stamphólsvegur 2;
mains kr3300-4900; hnoon-10pm mid-May–mid- ever since two major earthquakes shook the
Sep) The classy wooden Salthúsið specialises area in 2000.
in local saltfiskur (saltfish), which is pre-
pared in different ways, plus there’s salmon, Seltún HOT SPRINGS

lobster, chicken and lamb. The volatile geothermal field Austurengjar,
about 2km south of Kleifarvatn, is often
called Krýsuvík after the nearby abandoned
88 Information farm. At the main sight, Seltún, boardwalks
meander round a cluster of seething hot
Tourist Information Centre (% 420 1190; springs. The mud pots and steaming sul-
www.visitgrindavik.is; h10am-5pm mid-May– phuric solfataras (volcanic vents) shimmer
mid-Sep) In Kvíkan museum (p109); has an with rainbow colours from the minerals in
internet terminal.

88 Getting There & Away the earth.

Strætó (www.bus.is ) bus 88 goes to Keflavík Grænavatn LAKE
(kr420, two daily, 20 minutes). On weekends
it only goes from Grindavík to the crossroads Just to the south of the Seltún hot springs,
where you can connect to bus 55. this lake is an old explosion crater filled with
gorgeous teal water – caused by a combina-
tion of minerals and warmth-loving algae.

111

Krýsuvíkurberg Cliffs BIRDWATCHING

About 3km south of Seltún across the HALLDÓR LAXNESS’ HOUSE
Krýsuvíkurhraun lava fields, a dirt track
leads down to the coast at Krýsuvíkurberg Nobel Prize–winning author Halldór
(marked on the main road as Krýsuvíkurb- Laxness (1902–98) lived in Mosfellsbær
jarg). These sweeping black cliffs stretch for all his life. His riverside home is now the
4km and are packed with some 57,000 sea- Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum
bird breeding pairs in summer, from guille- (%586 8066; www.gljufrasteinn.is; Mos-
mots to occasional puffins. A walking path fellsbær; adult/child kr900/free; h9am-
runs the length of the cliffs. 5pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun
Mar-May, Sep, Oct & Dec, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri
THE GOLDEN CIRCLE Jan, Feb & Nov), easy to visit on the road So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le STÞhi ngehgGtvsoe lldiernNCaitricolnea l Pa rk
from Reykjavík to Þingvellir (Rte 36).
The Golden Circle – not to be confused with The author built this upper-class 1950s
the Ring Road, which wraps around the en- house and it remains intact with original
tire country and takes a week or more – takes furniture, writing room and Laxness’
in three popular attractions within 100km of fine-art collection (needlework, sweetly,
the capital, all in one doable-in-a-day loop: by his wife Auður). An audio tour leads
Þingvellir (a meeting point of the continen- you round. Look for his beloved Jaguar
tal plates and site of the ancient Icelandic parked out the front.
parliament), Geysir (a spouting hot spring)
and Gullfoss (a roaring waterfall). Visiting be served by and among local chieftains
under your own steam allows you to visit (goðar).
at off-hours and explore exciting attractions
further afield. Almost every tour company Eventually, a nationwide þing became
in the Reykjavík area offers a Golden Circle necessary. Bláskógur – now Þingvellir (Par-
excursion (from bus to bike to super-Jeep), liament Fields) – lay at a crossroads by a
often combinable with other sights as well. huge fish-filled lake. It had plenty of fire-
wood and a setting that would make even
Þingvellir National Park the most tedious orator dramatic, so it fitted
the bill perfectly. Every important decision
Þingvellir National Park (www.thingvellir. affecting Iceland was argued out on this
is), 40km northeast of central Reykjavík, is plain – new laws were passed, marriage
Iceland’s most important historical site and contracts were made and even the coun-
a place of vivid beauty. The Vikings estab- try’s religion was decided here. The annual
lished the world’s first democratic parlia- parliament was also a great social occasion,
ment, the Alþingi (pronounced ál-thingk- thronging with traders and entertainers.
ee, also called Alþing), here in AD 930. The
meetings were conducted outdoors and, as Over the following centuries, escalat-
with many Saga sites, there are only the ing violence between Iceland’s most pow-
stone foundations of ancient encampments. erful groups led to the breakdown of law
The site has a superb natural setting, in an and order. Governance was surrendered to
immense, fissured rift valley, caused by the the Norwegian crown and the Alþingi was
meeting of the North American and Eur- stripped of its legislative powers in 1271. It
asian tectonic plates, with rivers and wa- functioned solely as a courtroom until 1798,
terfalls. The country’s first national park, before being dissolved entirely. When it re-
Þingvellir was made a Unesco World Herit- gained its powers in 1843, members voted to
age Site in 2004. move the meeting place to Reykjavík.

History 1 Sights

Many of Iceland’s first settlers had run-ins From the Park Service Centre on Rte 36, fol-
with royalty back in mainland Scandinavia. low the path from the outlook down to the
These chancers and outlaws decided that Lögberg (Law Rock), and the only standing
they could live happily without kings in structures in the great rift. You can also
the new country, and instead created dis- approach the waterfall Öxarárfoss from a
trict þings (assemblies) where justice could parking area on Rte 36, and hike down into
the rift valley from there. Or, come in on Rte
361 on the eastern edge of the site, and park
there. Get a good map at www.thingvellir.is.

112

Free one-hour guided tours run most days tury nine men accused of witchcraft were
June to August; check the website or visitors burnt at the stake in Brennugjá (Burning
centre for the schedule. Chasm). Nearby are the fissures of Flosagjá
(named after a slave who jumped his way to
oTectonic Plates CANYONS, WATERFALLS freedom) and Nikulásargjá (after a drunk-
en sheriff discovered dead in the water). The
The Þingvellir plain is situated on a tectonic- southern end of Nikulásargjá is known as
plate boundary where North America and Peningagjá (Chasm of Coins) for the thou-
Europe are tearing away from each other at sands of coins tossed into it by visitors (an
a rate of 1mm to 18mm per year. As a result, act forbidden these days).
the plain is scarred by dramatic fissures,
ponds and rivers, including the great rift
Almannagjá. A path runs along the fault oAlþingi Site
LANDMARK

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le STÞhi ngehgGtvsoe lldiernNCaitricolnea l Pa rk between the clifftop visitors centre and the Near the dramatic Almannagjá fault and
Alþingi site. fronted by a boardwalk is the Lögberg (Law
The river Öxará cuts the western plate, Rock), where the Alþingi convened annually.
tumbling off its edge in a series of pretty cas- This was where the lögsögumaður (law
cades. The most impressive is Öxarárfoss, speaker) recited the existing laws to the as-
on the northern edge of the Alþingi site. The sembled parliament (one third each year).
pool Drekkingarhylur was used to drown After Iceland’s conversion to Christianity,
women found guilty of infanticide, adultery the site shifted to the very foot of the Alman-
or other serious crimes. nagjá cliffs, which acted as a natural ampli-
There are other smaller fissures on the fier, broadcasting the voices of the speakers
eastern edge of the site. During the 17th cen-

DIY GOLDEN CIRCLE

It’s very easy to tour the Golden Circle on your own (by bike or car) – plus, it’s fun to tack
on additional elements that suit your interests. In the Golden Circle area, signs are well
marked, roads well paved and the distances relatively short (it takes about four hours to
drive the loop without any add-on stops). You can also cobble some of it together by bus
(and buses do go into highlands not accessible by 2WD). The excellent, free Uppsveitir
Árnessýslu map details the region; find it at tourist offices.

The primary points of the Golden Circle are Þingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss. DIYers can
add the following elements to their tour:

Laugarvatn (p114) Located between Þingvellir and Geysir, this small lakeside town
has two must-tries: Lindin, an excellent restaurant, and Fontana, an upmarket geother-
mal spa.

Þjórsárdalur (p128) Largely untouristed, the quiet valley along the Þjórsá river is dot-
ted with ancient Viking ruins and mysterious natural wonders such as Gjáin. Ultimately it
leads up into the highlands (a main route to Landmannalaugar, the starting point of the
famous Laugavegurinn hike).

Reykholt (p117) & Flúðir (p119) On your way south from Gullfoss, you can go
river-rafting on the Hvítá river from Reykholt or swing through the geothermal area of
Flúðir, for its beautiful natural spa and to pick up fresh veggies for your evening meal.

Eyrarbakki (p123) & Stokkseyri (p124) South of Selfoss, these two seaside town-
ships are strikingly different than others nearby. Feast on seafood, peruse seasonal local
galleries and birdwatch in nearby marshes.

Kaldidalur Corridor (p181) Not all rentals are allowed to drive this bumpy dirt track (Rte
550), but if you have a sanctioned vehicle, you can explore this isolated road that curves
around hulking glaciers. It starts near Þingvellir and ends near Húsafell, so if you have
time, do the traditional Golden Circle in reverse, then head westward, where many more
adventures await.

Kerlingarfjöll (p343) You’ll need a 4WD (or to go by bus) to travel beyond Gullfoss, but
if you have one, it’s worth continuing on to this highland reserve, a hiker haven, about two
hours beyond the falls.

113

across the assembled crowds. That site is elaborate, state-of-the-art, multimedia exhi-
marked by the Icelandic flag. bition called Powering the Future opened,
bringing principles of electricity, hydropow-
Þingvallakirkja CHURCH er, and geothermal and renewable energy to
life. Free at the time of writing, a fee may be
(h9am-5pm Jun-Aug) Behind the Þingval- instituted; check the website for updates on
labær farmhouse, Þingvallakirkja is one of opening hours and costs.
Iceland’s first churches. The original was
consecrated in the 11th century, but the The power station is 5km south of
current wooden building only dates from Þingvallavatn.
1859. Inside are several bells from earlier
churches, a 17th-century wooden pulpit, 2 Activities
and a painted altarpiece from 1834. The
independence-era poets Jónas Hallgrímsson Check in with park centres for lake fishing
and Einar Benediktsson are interred in the rules (some areas are off limits, and any So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ATÞchi ntegiGvv oietlildeisernNCaitricolnea l Pa rk
small cemetery behind the church. imported equipment must be disinfected),
and get a permit (kr2000 per pole per day;
Þingvallabær HISTORIC BUILDING May to mid-September). The fishing card
(www.veidikortid.is) also covers part of
The little farmhouse in the bottom of the Þingvallavatn.
rift, Þingvallabær was built for the 1000th
anniversary of the Alþing in 1930 by state T Tours
architect Guðjón Samúelsson. It’s now used
as the park warden’s office and prime minis- Diving & Snorkelling
ter’s summer house. One of the most other-worldly activities in
Iceland is strapping on a scuba mask (or
Búðir RUIN snorkel) and wetsuit and exploring the crys-
talline Silfra fissure, one of the cracks in
Straddling both sides of the Öxará river the rift valley. There’s also a rift, Davíðsgjá,
are the ruins of various temporary camps out in Þingvallavatn lake, which is hard-
called búðir (literally ‘booths’). These stone er to reach. You must book ahead with a
foundations were covered during sessions Reykjavík dive operator. People with their
and were where parliament-goers camped. own equipment must have licences, dive in
They also acted like stalls at today’s music groups of at least two, and buy the permit
festivals, selling beer, food and vellum to the (kr1000) from the visitors centre.
assembled crowds. Most of the remains date
from the 17th and 18th centuries; the larg-
est, and one of the oldest, is Biskupabúð,
which belonged to the bishops of Iceland Horse Riding
and is located north of the church. In the valley on the Rte 36 approach from
Reykjavík, you can go horse riding with
Þingvallavatn LAKE Laxnes (p72).

Filling much of the rift plain, Þingvallavatn 4 Sleeping
is Iceland’s largest lake, at 84 sq km. Pure
glacial water from Langjökull filters through There is camping in Þingvellir National
bedrock for 40km before emerging here. It’s Park, and other accommodation around the
joined by the hot spring Vellankatla, which southern part of Þingvallavatn lake.

spouts from beneath the lava field on the Þingvellir Campsites CAMPGROUND €
northeastern shore. Þingvallavatn is an im-
portant refuelling stop for migrating birds (www.thingvellir.is; sites per adult/child/tent
kr1300/free/100; hJun-Sep) Overseen by the
(including the great northern diver, barrow’s park information centre, the best two areas
golden-eye and harlequin duck).
Weirdly, its waters are full of bleikja (Arc- are at Leirar, near the cafe: Syðri-Leirar is
the biggest and Nyrðri-Leirar has laundry
tic char) that have been isolated for so long facilities. Fagrabrekka and Hvannabrekka
that they’ve evolved into four subspecies.
are for campers only (no cars). Vatnskot is
down by the lake and has toilets and cold
Ljósafoss Power Station EXHIBITION water (no electricity).

(Ljósafossstöð; %896 7407; www.landsvirkjun.
com; Ljósafoss; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, reduced
hours Sep-May) F The 1937 Ljósafoss Pow- Ljósafossskóli Hostel GUESTHOUSE €
(%695 4099; www.ljosafossskoli.is; Brúarási 1,
er Station catches the outflow of lake Úlfl- Úlfljótsvatn; d without bathroom from kr12,000;
jótsvatn and turns it into power. In 2016 an
p) Many of the good, simple rooms in this

114

modern, converted schoolhouse have excel- proper restaurant is at Ion Luxury Adven-
lent lake and mountain views. Find it 28km ture Hotel.
south of Þingvellir and 21km north of Sel-
foss, on the edge of Úlfljótsvatn lake. 88 Information

Útilífsmiðstöð Skáta Þingvellir Visitors Centre (Gestastofa; % 482
3613; h 9am-6:30pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-
Úlfljótsvatni CAMPGROUND € Mar) At the top of the Almannagjá rift is a
(%482 2674; www.ulfljotsvatn.is; Úlfljótsvatn; simple visitors centre with a video on the area’s
sites per adult/child kr1500/free, dm incl break- nature and history, and a shop. The adjacent
fast kr5000; ps) This scouts’ centre has boardwalk offers great valley views. Toilets cost
camping in summer and basic dorm huts kr200. You can park here and walk down, or
in winter. It offers a full program of lake- walk up from the Alþingi site.
front activities and extensive playgrounds. Þingvellir Information Centre (Leirar
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le LET ahtueignGagorlvdaetnn C i rcl e Find it on the south side of Þingvellir’s lake, Þjónustumiðstöð; % 482 2660; www.thingvellir.
Þingvallavatn. is; h 9am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr) On
Rte 36, on the north side of the lake, the infor-
Lake Thingvellir Cottages COTTAGE €€ mation centre has details about the national
(%892 7110; www.lakethingvellir.is; Heiðarás; cot- park, as well as a cafe.
tages kr18,500, plus per person per night kr2400;
p) Four modern pine cottages with views to 88 Getting There & Away
the lake sit near the national-park entrance
along Rte 36. The easiest way to get here is on a Golden Circle
tour or in a hire car. Parking per car/jeep costs
Ion Luxury Adventure kr500/750.
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ ¨¨Bus 6/6a Reykjavík–Gullfoss (Reykjavík BSÍ
(%482 3415; www.ioniceland.is; Nesjavellir vid Bus Station–Þingvellir kr2500, one daily mid-
Þingvallavatn; d kr50,100; pis) S A lead- June to mid-September, stopping at various
er in a new breed of deluxe countryside points around Þingvellir for 75 minutes, then
hotels, Ion is all about hip, modern rooms continuing to Laugarvatn, Geysir, Gullfoss and
and sustainable practices. Its geothermal back).
pool, organic spa, restaurant (mains lunch ¨¨Bus 320 Reykjavík–Borgarnes–Húsafell–
kr2500-6000, dinner kr5000-7000; h11.30am- Þingvellir–Reykjavík (kr12,500, one daily mid-
10pm) with slow-food local ingredients and June to August, stops for around 15 minutes).
bar with floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows
are all sumptuous. Rooms are a tad smallish,
but kitted out impeccably, with fun touches
such as horse portraits on the walls. Laugarvatn

Hótel Grimsborgir HOTEL €€€ POP 160
(%555 7878; www.grimsborgir.com; d incl break-
fast kr49,200, 2-bedroom apt kr66,000) Hótel Laugarvatn (Hot Springs Lake) is fed not
Grimsborgir offers fully kitted-out luxury only by streams running from the misty fells
hotel suites and apartments. Find it on Rte behind it, but by the hot spring Vígðalaug,
36, 5.5km south of Ljósafossstöð, and 5km famous since medieval times. A village, also
north of the junction with Rte 35. called Laugarvatn, sits on the lake’s western
shore in the lap of the foothills. It is one
Hótel Borealis HOTEL €€€ of the better places to base yourself in the
Golden Circle area.

(%561 3661; www.hotelborealis.is; Bruar- 2 Activities & Tours
holt, Úlfljótsvatn; cottage/d incl breakfast from
kr31,000/33,500) Rooms and cottages on the oFontana GEOTHERMAL POOL

south side of Þingvellir’s lake Þingvallavatn (%486 1400; www.fontana.is; Hverabraut 1; adult/
child kr3800/2000; h10am-11pm early Jun-late
are relatively plain. Aug, 11am-10pm late Aug-early Jun) This swanky

5 Eating lakeside soaking spot boasts three mod wad-
ing pools, and a cedar-lined steam room
There is a small cafe/mini-mart (soup that’s fed by a naturally occurring vent
kr990; h9am-10pm Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov- below. The cool cafe (buffet lunch/dinner
Mar) at the Þingvellir Information Centre kr2950/4500) has lake views. You can rent
serving hot dogs and soup, but the closest towels or swimsuits (kr800 each) if you left

yours at home.

115

Laugarvatn Swimming Pool GEOTHERMAL POOL from the lake. The ice-cream bar scoops
(%486 1251; Hverabraut 2; adult/child kr500/250; farm ice cream (kr400 per scoop) and has
h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jun–mid- windows looking into the dairy barn.
Aug, reduced hours mid-Aug–May) If you want
skip the Fontana hot-pot hoopla, there’s a Golden Circle Apartments APARTMENTS €€
regular geothermal swimming pool, hot- (%487 1212; www.goldencircleapartments.is;
pots and sauna next door that costs a frac- Laugarbraut 1; 1-/2-bedroom apt kr18,800/26,700;
tion of the price, with none of the glitz. p) Several bland, white block buildings
stepping up the slope next to Laugarvatn
Laugarvatn Adventures ROCK CLIMBING, CAVING lake contain spacious, modern apartments So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le STL ahl eueegGpaoirnlvgdae&tnnECaitricnlge
(%862 5614; www.caving.is) Runs two- to three- with full kitchens, convenient for staying
hour caving and rock-climbing trips (from over in the Golden Circle area, as the name
kr12,300) in the hills around town. suggests.

4 Sleeping & Eating Hótel Edda HOTEL €€
(%444 4000; www.hoteledda.is; hearly Jun–mid-
Laugarvatn HI Hostel HOSTEL € Aug; pi) Laugarvatn’s two big schools be-
(%486 1215; www.laugarvatnhostel.is; dm/s/d
without bathroom kr4100/7000/10,900, s/d come Edda hotels in summer. The 101-room
ML Laugarvatn (d with/without bathroom
kr13,400/16,650; pi) This large hostel, from kr24,700/15,700, tr kr27,900) has ser-
spread over several buildings along the
village’s main street, is professional and viceable college-like rooms. ÍKÍ Laugarvatn
(d/tr from kr22,300/19,900) is better posi-
comfortable. There’s a newly renovated two- tioned: its 28 rooms all have private bath-
storey building with plenty of kitchen space
(great lake views while washing up or from rooms, half with beautiful panoramic lake
views. Its in-house restaurant has great Hek-
the dining room). Some buildings are much la views as well.
smaller and house-like. There’s a kr700 dis-
count for HI members. oLindin
ICELANDIC €€
(%486 1262; www.laugarvatn.is; Lindarbraut 2; res-
Laugarvatn Campsite CAMPGROUND € taurant mains kr3800-6300, bistro mains kr2200-
(%771 6869; Háholt 2c; sites per adult/child
kr1100/500; hlate May–mid-Sep; p) By the 5600; hnoon-10pm May-Sep, reduced hours
Oct-Apr; p) Owned by Baldur, an affable,
highway just outside the village, this camp- celebrated chef, Lindin is the best restau-
ground is a plain grassy expanse with some
tree protection. rant for miles. In a sweet little silver house,
the restaurant faces the lake and is purely
oHéraðsskólinn gourmet, with high-concept Icelandic fare
HOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE €€ featuring local or wild-caught ingredients.
(%5378060; www.heradsskolinn.is; dm/s/d/qwith-
out bathroom from kr5400/14,000/15,300/30,100, The casual, modern bistro serves a more
informal menu, from soups to an amazing
d with bathroom kr25,400; p) This sparkling reindeer burger. Book ahead for dinner in
hostel and guesthouse fills an enormous
renovated historical landmark school, built high season.

in 1928 by Guðjón Samúelsson. The beau- 7 Shopping
tiful lakeside building with peaked roofs
offers both private rooms with shared bath-
rooms (some sleep up to six) and dorms, Gallerí Laugarvatn ARTS & CRAFTS

plus a spacious library/living room and a (%847 0805; www.gallerilaugarvatn.is; Háholt
1; h1-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 1-6pm Sat & Sun
cafe (open 7.30am to 10pm). mid-Sep–mid-May) Local handicrafts, from
ironwork to ceramics and woollens. Also
oEfstidalur II GUESTHOUSE €€ operates a small B&B and offers courses.
(%486 1186; www.efstidalur.is; Efstidalur
2, Bláskógabyggð; d/tr incl breakfast from
kr26,200/29,700; p) Located 12km northeast 88 Getting There & Away
of Laugarvatn on a working dairy farm, Ef-
stidalur offers wonderfully welcoming digs, Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
tasty meals and amazing ice cream. Ador- ¨¨Bus 73 Selfoss–Flúðir–Reykholt–Laugar-
able semidetached cottages have brilliant vatn–Selfoss (Selfoss–Laugarvatn kr1680, 1¼
views of hulking Hekla, and the restaurant hours, one daily).
(mains kr2250-5500; h7.30am-9.30am, 11.30am- Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
9pm; p) serves beef from the farm and trout ¨¨Bus 6/6a Reykjavík–Gullfoss (Reykjavík–
Laugarvatn kr4000, one daily mid-June to

116

mid-September, 2¼ hours, continues to Geysir, has dorms and doubles with shared bath-
Gullfoss and back). rooms, a kitchen and living room. A nearby
¨¨Bus 610/610a Reykjavík–Akureyri (one daily three-bedroom cabin (from kr25,500) is a
mid-June to early September, 1½ hours, con- great bargain. It also has cabins with dorm
tinues to Geysir, Gulfoss, Kjölur Highlands and beds in the highlands on the Kjölur route
Kerlingarfjöll to Akureyri). This same bus ticket (F35).
is also sold by Sterna (www.icelandbybus.is)
and starts at Harpa.
Skjól Camping HOSTEL, CAMPGROUND €
(%899 4541; www.skjolcamping.com; Kjóastaðir;
sites per adult/child kr1200/free, dm/d without
Geysir bathroom kr5400/14,000; hmid-May–mid-Sep)
One of Iceland’s most famous tourist at- Simple dorms and field camping with a
tractions, Geysir F (gay-zeer; literally summertime bar, 3.5km northeast of Geysir,
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TGohe uye srGisor ld e n C i rcl e ‘gusher’) is the original hot-water spout next to Kjóastaðir horse farm.

after which all other geysers are named. Mengi GUESTHOUSE €€
Discovered in the Haukadalur geothermal (%780 1414; www.mengi-kjarnholt.com; Kjarnholt;
region, the Great Geysir has been active for d/f without bathroom from kr18,400/25,000; p)
perhaps 800 years, and once gushed water This freshly renovated farmhouse in the
up to 80m into the air. But the geyser goes countryside 10km south of Geysir has 10
through periods of lessened activity, which rooms with sweeping pastoral views and a
seems to have been the case since 1916. shared geothermal hot tub.
Earthquakes can stimulate activity, though
eruptions are rare. Luckily for visitors, the Litli Geysir
HOTEL €€
very reliable Strokkur geyser sits alongside. (%480 6800; www.geysircenter.is; Geysir Center;
You rarely have to wait more than five to 10 s/d incl breakfast 25,100/29,400; p) This sim-
minutes for the hot spring to shoot an im- ple, modern hotel is a part of the vast Geysir
pressive 15m to 30m plume before vanishing complex and offers tidy rooms, some with
down its enormous hole. Stand downwind good countryside and Geysir views. There’s
only if you want a shower. also a hot tub, sauna and lounge.
The undulating, hissing geothermal area
containing Geysir and Strokkur were free to Hótel Geysir HOTEL, CAMPGROUND €€
enter at the time of writing, though there is (%480 6800; www.geysircenter.is; Geysir Center;
discussion of instituting a fee. s/d incl breakfast kr18,000/22,900; pi) The
restaurant (three-course meal kr7900) at
T Tours this alpine-style hotel across the street from
Geysir can be completely overrun with tour-
Geysir Hestar HORSE RIDING bus visitors during summer. The hotel’s

(%847 1046; www.geysirhestar.com; Kjóastaðir 2) studio rooms offer good countryside views,
Four kilometres east of Geysir at Kjóastaðir
horse farm, this outfit offers horse riding and the company also operates the small
Litli Geysir hotel and a nearby campground
in the area (one-/two-/three-hour rides (sites per adult/child kr1700/500; open mid-
kr9500/12,500/17,000) as well as along Hvítá
river canyon to Gullfoss, with trips for all May to mid-September).
Construction is under way for a 77-room
skill levels. It also has great lodging in pri- high-end hotel and spa to be completed in
vate cabins (kr33,000) or a guesthouse (dou-
ble with shared bathroom kr15,000). 2017.

Iceland Safari JEEP TOURS 5 Eating

(%544 5454; www.icelandsafari.com) Super-Jeep Geysir Center INTERNATIONAL €€
tours around the southwest (from kr25,000), (%480 6800; www.geysircenter.com; h10am-
with a base 1km south of Geysir. 10pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep-May; pc) This
large centre has been erected to corral the
4 Sleeping masses across the street from the geysers.
Here you’ll find a massive restaurant (mains
Gljasteinn Skálinn CABIN, GUESTHOUSE € kr2500 to kr5400), a cafe (mains kr1600 to
(%486 8757; www.gljasteinn.is; Myrkholt; dm kr3000), a fast-food joint (kr990 to kr1990),
adult/child kr6500/4000, d without bathroom and a souvenir shop of mall-like proportions
kr11,000) This beautiful farm in the widening with Icelandic name brands.
sweep of the valley between Geysir and Gull-
foss has a clutch of tidy houses, one of which

117

88 Getting There & Away (get one facing the valley), and there are two
hot-pots and a restaurant (mains kr2600 to
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: kr5000) with sweeping views.
¨¨Bus 6/6a Reykjavík–Þingvellir–Gullfoss
(Reykjavík BSÍ Terminal–Geysir kr4500, three Tourist Information Centre,
hours, one daily mid-June to mid-September,
stops for 1½ hours then continues to Gullfoss Shop & Cafe CAFE €
and back). (www.gullfoss.is; mains kr1250-1950; h9am-9pm
¨¨Bus 610/610a Reykjavík–Akureyri (kr4600, Jun-Aug, to 6.30pm Sep-May) Above Gullfoss,
two hours, one daily mid-June to early Septem- the small tourist information centre boasts
ber, continues to Gullfoss, Kjölur Highlands a large shop and a simple cafe.
and Kerlingarfjöll to Akureyri). This same bus
service is also sold by Sterna (www.icelandby 88 Getting There & Away So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le GT hue teltlGfi onoglsdsTehneCrier&clAeway
bus.is) and starts at Harpa.
Gullfoss is the final attraction on the traditional
Gullfoss Golden Circle tour. You can continue along
Rte F35 beyond the falls (the Kjölur route) for
Iceland’s most famous waterfall, Gullfoss 14.8km while it’s paved, after which you need to
(Golden Falls; www.gullfoss.is) F is a spectac- have 4WD as it heads deep into the highlands.
ular double cascade. It drops 32m, kicking Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
up tiered walls of spray before thundering ¨¨Bus 6/6a (Reykjavík–Þingvellir–Geysir–
away down a narrow ravine. On sunny days Gullfoss, kr5000, five hours, one daily mid-
the mist creates shimmering rainbows, and June to mid-September; stops at the falls for
it’s also magical in winter when the falls glit- an hour).
ter with ice. On grey, drizzly days, mist can ¨¨Bus 610/610a (Reykjavík–Akureyri,
envelop the second drop, making Gullfoss Reykjavík–Gullfoss kr4800, one daily mid-June
slightly underwhelming. to early September; stops at the falls for 30
minutes). This same bus service is also sold
A tarmac path suitable for wheelchairs by Sterna (www.icelandbybus.is) and starts at
leads from the tourist information centre to Harpa.
a lookout over the falls, and stairs continue
down to the edge. There is also an access Gullfoss to Selfoss
road down to the falls. (Route 35)

History If you’re completing the Golden Circle in the
traditional direction, then the route from
Visited since 1875, the falls came with- Gullfoss back to the Ring Road at Selfoss
in a hair’s breadth of destruction during will be the final stage of your trip. Along the
the 1920s, when a team of foreign inves- way you’ll find plenty to lure you to stop.
tors wanted to dam the Hvítá river for a Most people follow surfaced Rte 35, which
hydroelectric project. The landowner, Tó- passes through Reykholt, with its river raft-
mas Tómasson, refused to sell to them, but ing. You can also detour slightly to Flúðir
the developers went behind his back and with its geothermal greenhouses and hot
obtained permission directly from the gov- spring, and Skálholt, once Iceland’s religious
ernment. Tómasson’s daughter, Sigríður, powerhouse.
walked (barefoot!) to Reykjavík to protest,
even threatening to throw herself into the If you’d like to continue east rather than
waterfall if the development went ahead. return to Reykjavík, the western Þjórsárd-
Thankfully, the investors failed to pay the alur area is the next valley of interesting
lease, the agreement was nullified, and the sights.
falls escaped destruction. Gullfoss was do-
nated to the nation in 1975 and has been a Reykholt
nature reserve ever since.
POP 260
4 Sleeping & Eating
The rural township of Reykholt – one of
Hótel Gullfoss HOTEL €€ several Reykholts around the country – is
(%486 8979; www.hotelgullfoss.is; d incl breakfast centred on the hot spring Reykjahver and
kr20,000) A few kilometres south of the falls, has a geothermal pool. For visitors, howev-
Hótel Gullfoss is a modern bungalow hotel. er, the main attraction is the nearby Hvítá
Its clean en suite rooms overlook the moors river – south Iceland’s centre for white-
water rafting.

118 5 Eating

T Tours There’s a supermarket and restaurant in
Reykholt, as well as occasional farm stands
Arctic Rafting RAFTING TOUR for produce.

(%571 2200; www.arcticrafting.com; hmid-May–
mid-Sep) Full range of Hvítá river rafting and
combination (horse-riding, quad-bike) tours.
Three- to four-hour trips start at kr13,990 Café Mika INTERNATIONAL €€
per adult; Reykjavík pick-up costs kr5000. (%896 6450; Skólabraut 4; mains kr1900-6000;
Children are half-price. The company’s base hnoon-9pm) Café Mika is popular with lo-
is near Reykholt at Drumboddsstaðir, and cals for its huge menu, outdoor pizza oven,
its Reykjavík office is at Arctic Adventures sandwiches and Icelandic mains.

(p70). Friðheimar CAFE

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le GT ohuuellrGfsoolsdsetnoCSi recllf oe ss ( R o u t e 3 5 ) Iceland Riverjet BOAT TOUR (%897 1915; www.fridheimar.is; Rte 35; lunch
kr2000; hnoon-4pm) This farm has big green-
(%863 4506; www.icelandriverjet.com; Skólabraut houses from which staff sell produce and
4; hmid-Apr–Sep) Forty-minute jet-boat rides offer a good buffet lunch of tomato soup,
(adult/child kr14,900/8900) zip along the cucumber salsa and fresh bread. It also has
Hvítá. Based in the same complex as Café reservation-only horse shows for groups of
Mika, the company also offers pick-up and 15 or more.
combo tours with the Golden Circle.

4 Sleeping 88 Getting There & Away

Fellskot Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
(%899 8616; www.fellskot.com; Fellskot 2 Farm; ¨¨Bus 73 Selfoss–Flúðir–Reykholt–Laugar-
d/f without bathroom kr12,200/16,500; p) This vatn–Selfoss (Selfoss–Reykholt kr2100, 45
sweet farmhouse 2.5km north of Reykholt, minutes, two daily Monday to Friday, one daily
just off Rte 35, makes a cosy base, with three Saturday).
comfortable rooms with country views, and ¨¨Bus 72 Selfoss–Flúðir–Reykholt–Laugarás–
shared kitchen space. Guests are welcome to Selfoss (Selfoss–Reykholt kr2100, 45 minutes,
pat the horses. two daily Monday to Friday).

Húsið B&B € Skálholt
(%486 8680; Bjarkarbraut 26; d without bathroom
incl breakfast kr12,800; p) Friendly Húsið is An important religious centre, Skálholt was
a small guesthouse on a quiet residential one of two bishoprics (the other was Hólar
cul-de-sac. There’s a hot tub, barbecue and in the north) that ruled Iceland’s souls from
kitchen. the 11th to the 18th centuries.

oBuubble Hotel TENTED CAMP €€ Unfortunately, the great cathedral that
(www.buubble.com; Blaskogabyggd, near Reykholt; once stood at Skálholt was destroyed by a
bubbles from kr27,900) This once-in-a-lifetime major earthquake in the 18th century. Today
sleeping experience offers you a clear bub- there’s a modern Protestant theological cen-
ble tent in the countryside near the Golden tre with a visitor centre (%486 8870; www.
Circle. Recline and watch the midnight sun skalholt.is; museum admission kr500; h9am-7pm
or, in winter, look for the aurora borealis. A Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May), a turf-house
small, modern hut holds bathrooms and a re-creation of Þorlagsbúð, and a prim church
kitchen. Each bubble can accommodate two with a museum in the basement containing
adults and one child under 12. Prices are the stone sarcophagus of Bishop Páll Jóns-
high, but the experience is unique. son (bishop from 1195 to 1211). According to
Páls Saga, an Old Norse account of the bish-
oFagrilundur Guesthouse B&B €€ op’s life, the earth was wracked by storms
(%486 8701; www.fagrilundur.is; Skólabraut and earthquakes when he died. Spookily, a
1; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast huge storm broke at the exact moment that
kr23,000/17,000) A flower-pot-lined walk his coffin was reopened in 1956.
through the forest leads to a fairy-tale wood-
en cottage. Cosy rooms have patterned quilts The centre also hosts summertime
and there’s a shared porch. The attentive concerts.
owners offer a warm welcome, celebrated
breakfasts and loads of local advice. 4 Sleeping & Eating

The Skálholt centre has peaceful accom-
modation in rooms with private or shared

119

bathroom, as well as camping and several food, but also for its beautifully refurbished
cottages. hot springs.

Skálholt has a restaurant, and the neigh- 2 Activities
bouring village, Laugarás, is essentially a
community of farms, some of which sell oGamla Laugin GEOTHERMAL POOL
their produce on-site. Visit Engi (%486 8913;
www.engi.is; Laugarás; hnoon-6pm Jun-Aug) for (Secret Lagoon; %555 3351; www.secretlagoon.is;
greenhouse-grown fruit and vegetables, as adult/child kr2800/free; h10am-10pm May-Sep,
well as cute souvenirs. It’s marked at the noon-8pm Oct-Apr) Soak in this broad, calm
entrance to Laugarás when arriving from geothermal pool, mist rising and ringed by
Skálholt. natural rocks. The walking trail along the
edge of this lovely hot spring passes the local
river and a series of sizzling vents and gey-
Sólheimar Eco-Village GUESTHOUSE €€ sers. Surrounding meadows fill with wild- So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TGhue teltlGfi onoglsdsTehtneoCrSiere&cllfAoewsasy( R o u t e 3 5 )
(%4226080; www.solheimar.is; Rte354,Sólheimar;
d with/without bathroom from kr18,600/10,600, apt flowers in summer. Increasingly popular, the
lagoon gets packed with tour bus crowds in
kr24,000; ps) S Sólheimar Eco-Village is mid-afternoon, so come earlier or later.
a collection of homes and greenhouses uti-
lising ecologically sound practices. The two
guesthouses in the village offer clean rooms 4 Sleeping
with private or shared bathrooms and one
apartment suitable for four people. There The local camping site along the Litla-Laxá
are shared kitchens and living areas, as well river is usually crammed on summer
as a nice pool and hot tub. There is a cafe weekends.

and shop in the village as well. Grund – Guesthouse Flúðir GUESTHOUSE €€
Find it 15km southwest of Skálholt, just (Gistiheimilið Flúðum; %565 9196; www.gisting
south off of Rte 35 on Rte 354. fludir.is; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast
kr25,000/20,000; p) This adorable guest-
88 Getting There & Away house has five homey rooms filled with an-
tiques, and a new wing of rooms opened in
There is no public transport to Skálholt. 2016 with private bathrooms and decks with
Laugarás (3km from Skálholt) is served by mountain views. The popular restaurant
Strætó (www.bus.is) buses 72 (two daily Mon- prides itself on offering fresh local food.
day to Friday) and 73 (two daily Monday to Fri-
day, one daily Saturday) from Selfoss (kr2100, Icelandair Hótel Flúðir HOTEL €€€
40 minutes), Flúðir and Reykholt. (%486 6630; www.hotelfludir.is; Vesturbrún 1; d

Kerið kr33,500; i) These two silver motel-style
strands of rooms are comfortable, with en
Around 15.5km north of Selfoss on Rte 35, suite bathrooms and a restaurant, but it’s
Kerið (adult/child kr400/free; h8.30am-9pm pricey for what you get.
Jun-Aug, daylight hours Sep-May) is a 6500-year-
old explosion crater with vivid red and sien- 5 Eating
na earth and containing an ethereal green
lake. Björk once performed a concert from a There’s a farm stand at Melar on the
raft floating in the middle. western edge of town on Rte 311 and a
Samkaup-Strax (h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
Flúðir 10pm Sun) supermarket.

POP 450 oMinilik Ethiopian

The approaches to little agrarian Flúðir be- Restaurant ETHIOPIAN €€
come increasingly dramatic, with interest- (%846 9798; www.minilik.is; mains kr2000-3000;
ing rock buttes rising from the rolling green hnoon-9pm Jun-Aug, 6-9pm Sep-May; v) Azeb
plains. Flúðir is known throughout Iceland cooks up traditional Ethiopian speciali-
for its geothermal greenhouses that grow ties in this welcoming, unpretentious spot.
the majority of the country’s mushrooms, There are loads of vegetarian options, but
and it’s also a popular weekend getaway for also lamb dishes such as awaze tibs or
Reykjavikers with private cottages. More chicken (doro kitfo). As far as we know, this
recently it’s a super stop not only for good is the only Ethiopian restaurant in Iceland,

and it should beckon all lovers of spice.

120

Grund Restaurant ICELANDIC €€ ern elements under a series of wind-foiling
(%565 9196; www.gistingfludir.is; mains kr2600- ice caps. They are linked by the famous
4900; h11.30am-9pm Jun–mid-Aug) This pop- Laugavegurinn hike, Iceland’s most popular
ular restaurant serves fresh local food in a trek. Though these areas lie inland on roads
large, cheerful dining room. that are sometimes impassable by standard
vehicles, most visitors access them on tours
88 Getting There & Away or amphibious buses from the southern
Ring Road. Þórsmörk, one of Iceland’s most
Strætó (www.bus.is) buses 72 and 73 from popular hiking destinations, can be done as
Selfoss (kr2100, 40 to 60 minutes, two daily) a day trip.
serve Flúðir. Bus 76 links up to those routes to
reach Árnes. Public transport (and traffic) is solid
along the Ring Road, which is studded with
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le GHT hevtetrSiaongguetrThhð ie r&eA&r oAuwnady THE SOUTH interesting settlements: Hveragerði, famous
for its geothermal fields and hot springs;
As you work your way east from Reykjavík, Skógar, the leaping-off point for Þórsmörk;
Rte 1 (the Ring Road) emerges into aus- and Vík, surrounded by glaciers, vertigi-
tere volcanic foothills punctuated by sur- nous cliffs and black-sand beaches. South
real steam vents, around Hveragerði, then of the Ring Road the tiny fishing villages of
swoops through a flat, wide coastal plain, Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki feel refreshing-
full of verdant horse farms and greenhouses, ly local. The south coast is also filled with
before the landscape suddenly begins to family farms, some rich with Saga heritage,
grow wonderfully jagged, after Hella and offering lovely rural guesthouses.
Hvolsvöllur. Mountains thrust upwards on
the inland side, some of them volcanoes Hveragerði & Around
wreathed by mist (Eyjafjallajökull, site of the
2010 eruption), and the first of the awesome POP 2500
glaciers appears, as enormous rivers such as
the Þjórsá cut their way to the black-sand The grid of boxy buildings that is Hver-
beaches rimming the Atlantic. agerði (www.hveragerdi.is) emerge from
other-worldly lava fields and hills pierced,
Throughout the region, roads pierce deep surreally, by natural steaming vents. You’re
inland, to realms of lush waterfall-doused not here for the architecture, you’re here
valleys such as Þjórsárdalur and Fljótshlíð, for Hveragerði’s highly active geothermal
and awe-inspiring volcanoes such as Hek- field, which heats hundreds of greenhouses.
la. Two of the most renowned inland spots Nationally, the town is famous for its hor-
are Landmannalaugar, where vibrantly ticultural college and naturopathic clinic.
coloured rhyolite peaks meet bubbling hot There are also some fantastic hikes in the
springs; and Þórsmörk, a forested valley area, though routes are sometimes overly
tucked safely away from the brutal north- packed in summer.

SLEEPING IN THE SOUTH Pick up the handy Hveragerði, The Capi-
tal of Hot Springs and Flowers map, which
The south is the most developed region details all of the sights, activities and dining
outside of Reykjavík, with lodging in options in the area.
all of the towns along the Ring Road,
plus many farms with guesthouses. 1 Sights
Increasingly, hotels are staying open
year-round. oGeothermal Park HOT SPRINGS

It is absolutely essential to book well (Hveragarðurinn; %483 4601; Hveramörk 13; adult/
ahead for summer and holidays, espe- child kr300/free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm
cially in the far south, as visitor numbers Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Apr, May & Sep, closed
often exceed beds. Oct-Mar) The geothermal park Hverasvæðið,
in the centre of town, has mud pots and
Camping is easy, with municipal steaming pools where visitors can dip their
campgrounds in each town. Wild feet (but no more). You can book ahead for a
camping is discouraged (and illegal for guided walk to learn about the area’s unique
campervans). geology and greenhouse power. Or they’ll
give you an egg and apparatus (kr100) for
boiling it in the steaming vents. There’s also
a small cafe with geothermally baked bread.

121

Hveragerði e# 0 200 m Hveragerði
A 0 0.1 miles
:: æ Top Sights
B 1 Geothermal Park...................................A3
2 Listasafn Árnesinga..............................A4
LaufDsyknósgkaórgar D ::
æ Sights
Reykjadalur Breiðamörk :::: 1 3 Hveragerði Stone & Geology
(3.5km) :::: Exhibition ............................................A4

1 Football :::: Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Field :::: 4 Geothermal Swimming Pool ...............B3
5 HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Spa ...................B4
:::: 6 Iceland Activities...................................A4

:::: ÿ Sleeping
7 Campsite................................................B3
:::: 8 Frost & Fire Hotel..................................A2
: :Geoth:erma:l 9 Gistiheimilið Frumskógar ....................A3

: :Fields: : 10 Hótel Örk ................................................A4
ú Eating
::::
11 Almar ......................................................A4
: ÿ#:ú# : : 12 Kjöt og Kúnst .........................................A3 So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le AHT chvte irSvaoi gtuieetrshð i & Ar o u nd
: : 8 14: : 13 Skyrgerðin .............................................A3
2 2 14 Varmá .....................................................B2
:::: þ Shopping
Varmá 15 Vínbúðin .................................................A4
::::
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5 Geothermal Power Plant, one of the few
4 that provide 30% of Iceland’s electricity.
ON Power, which operates the plant, has a
mörk multimedia exhibition laying out the details
of harnessing the earth’s hot-water power.
D
1# Selfoss (12km)

A B Raufarhólshellir LAVA TUBE
ART MUSEUM
666oListasafn Árnesinga F This 11th-century lava tube is 1360m
long (Iceland’s third largest), and contains
(%483 1727; www.listasafnarnesinga.is; Austur- wonderful lava columns. You’ll need a hel-
mörk 21; hnoon-6pm May-Sep, noon-6pm Thu-Sun met, torch (flashlight) and sturdy boots,
Oct–mid-Dec & mid-Jan–Apr) F This airy but even so the going is treacherous from
modern-art gallery puts on great exhibitions earlier cave-ins. In winter cold air is fun-
and also has a fine cafe. nelled down and trapped inside, producing
amazing ice formations. If in doubt, go with
Hveragerði Stone & Geology a local tour operator.

Exhibition MUSEUM You’ll find the tube southwest of Hverag-
(Ljósbrá Stone Exhibition; erði off Rte 39, which passes right over it;
www.ljosbra.is;
Breiðamörk 1b; adult/child kr1000/free; h8am-
8pm Jun-Aug, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & park on the north side.

Sun Sep-May) One of Iceland’s largest private 2 Activities
collections of stones, crystals and geological
artefacts opened in 2016 in the same build- oReykjadalur GEOTHERMAL POOL

ing as the N1 petrol station. (Hot River Valley) Reykjadalur is a delightful
geothermal valley where there’s a hot riv-
er you can bathe in; bring your swimsuit.
Hellisheiði Geothermal Power There are maps at the tourist office to find

Plant EXHIBITION

(%412 5800; www.onpower.is; adult/child kr950/ the trail; from the trailhead car park, it’s a
free; h9am-5pm) Seventeen kilometres west
of Hveragerði, just north of the Ring Road, 3km hike through fields of sulphur-belching
plains. Stick to marked paths, lest you melt
you’ll see the sleek shell of Hellisheiði your shoes, and leave no rubbish.

122

HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Spa SPA welcoming, with friendly hosts, and is lo-
cated in the rolling fields 8km southeast of
(Heilsustofnun Náttúrulækningafélags Íslands; Hveragerði, just off the Ring Road. There’s
%483 0300; www.heilsustofnun.is; Grænumörk 10; also a historic house to rent.
hby appointment) Iceland’s most famous clin-
ic treats both prescription-bearing patients
and visitors seeking relaxing massages Hótel Hlíð HOTEL €€
(%860 4644; www.hotelhlid.is; Krókur; s/d/f
(kr7500 to kr12,000), deep-heat mud baths kr22,300/27,700/36,300) This slim band of
(kr6500) and more. They offer many pack-
ages and have excellent facilities, including modern rooms sits against a brilliant back-
drop, with rocky foothills behind and the
indoor and outdoor pools, hot-pots, a sauna, sweep of a lush valley reaching towards the
a steam bath and modest accommodation
(apartments kr48,000). coast.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le THohvue rSsaoguetrhð i & Ar o u nd Geothermal Swimming Pool SWIMMING oFrost & Fire Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
(Frost og Funi; %483 4959; www.frostandfire.is;
(%483 4113; Laugaskarði; adult/child kr700/300; Hverhamar; d/tr incl breakfast kr31,000/42,700;
h6.45am-9.15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.15pm Sat & Sun
Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Hveragerði’s pis) This lovely little hotel sits along
a bubbling stream and beneath fizzing
open-air geothermal swimming pool, be- geothermal spouts. The comfortable rooms
side the Varmá river just north of town, is
among Iceland’s favourites. Goodies include with subtle Scandi-sleek details and original
artworks stretch along the river ravine. The
a massaging hot-pot and a steam room built heat-pressured sauna and simmering hot-
directly over a natural hot spring.
pots are fed by the hotel’s private borehole.
T Tours
Hótel Örk HOTEL €€€
Iceland Activities ADVENTURE TOUR (%483 4700; www.hotel-ork.is; Breiðamörk 1c; d

(%777 6263; www.icelandactivities.is; Mánamörk incl breakfast kr29,800-40,400; i) This hulk-
3-5; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) This
family-run adventure company specialises ing hotel favoured by tour groups has rath-
er plain rooms, but offers family-friendly
in biking, surfing and hiking tours (from amenities: a sauna, a nine-hole golf course,
kr15,600) in the Southwest.
billiards, and an excellent swimming pool
with a slide and hot tubs. There’s an in-
Sólhestar HORSE RIDING house restaurant, too.

(%892 3066; www.solhestar.is; Borgargerði, Öl- 5 Eating
fus) Various half-day and full-day riding
tours through the volcanic wilds or down
on the beach (one-/three-hour tours from The town has several busy bakeries, fast-
kr8000/11,000). It’s 8km south of Hverag- food joints and supermarkets. Some restau-
erði on the Ring Road; go 500m north on rants offer bread cooked using geothermal
Rte 374. heat.

4 Sleeping oAlmar BAKERY €
(Sunnumörk 2; soup kr950; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri,
Gistiheimilið Frumskógar GUESTHOUSE € 8am-5pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) A large, bustling
(%896 2780; www.frumskogar.is; Frumskógar
3; d/apt without bathroom incl breakfast from bakery that also serves sandwiches and soup
of the day with fresh bread. In the complex
kr16,200/21,000) This cosy apartment-style with the tourist office.
guesthouse accommodation also boasts a
hot-pot and steam bath.
Skyrgerðin CAFE €€
(%481 1010; Breiðamörk 25; mains kr2000-2500;
Campsite CAMPGROUND € h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun) This
([email protected]; Reykjamörk 1; sites per
adult/child kr1400/free) This campsite lies just chilled-out new cafe incorporates rough
wood furniture, antiques and vintage pho-
east of the centre, and has toilets, showers, a tos to create an interesting environment for
cooking area and a laundry.
dining on creative meals crafted from fresh
Icelandic ingredients. The menu ranges
Hjarðarból Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ from fresh skyr-based smoothies and drinks
(%567 0045; www.hjardarbol.is; d/q
kr18,500/24,500, d without bathroom kr11,000; to sliders, lasagne and fish. There are also
pretty little rooms (doubles with/without
p) This buttercup-yellow set of cottages bathrooms from kr35,000/24,500) upstairs.
and guesthouse buildings is pastoral and

123

Kjöt og Kúnst INTERNATIONAL €€
(%483 5010; www.kjotogkunst.com; Breiðamörk
21; mains kr2200-4000; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat SOUTH ICELAND
Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) On the touristy VISITOR CENTRE
side, but there are Icelandic dishes (soup,
fish and lamb) in among the sandwiches Hveragerði has the regional tourist
and pizzas. Loads of cakes and geothermal office for the entire south: The Tourist
bread, too. Information Centre (Upplýsinga-
miðstöð Suðurlands; %483 4601; www.
oVarmá ICELANDIC €€€ southiceland.is; Sunnumörk 2-4; h8.30am-
(%483 4959; www.frostogfuni.is; Hverhamar; 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, to 1pm Sun Jun-
mains kr4300-6000; h8am-10pm; p) At the Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) is the spot
Frost & Fire Hotel, this wonderfully scenic to stock up on free subregional maps
restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows and brochures. It shares space with the So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ÞTEnhoterelSráotkuastihnhömfennt
looking over the stream and gorge. Dishes post office and a small exhibit about
are Icelandic, using fresh, local ingredients the earthquake that ripped through in
and herbs and often geothermal cooking 2008; there’s a freaky earthquake simu-
techniques. Book ahead in summer. lator (kr300).

3 Entertainment Trex (www.trex.is) services:
¨¨Buses T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar
Icelandic Horse Park and T11 Reykjavík–Þórsmörk can stop with
pre-booking.
Fákasel LIVE PERFORMANCE
Þorlákshöfn
(%483 5050; www.icelandichorsepark.com; Ingolf-
shvoll, Ölfus) Performances at Fákasel com- In the past, most people came to the fish-
bine people, horses and multimedia lights ing town of Þorlákshöfn, 20km south of
and music. Quick daytime shows start at Hveragerði, to catch the ferry to the Vest-
kr1800, more elaborate 45-minute evening mannaeyjar. Now the ferry departs from
shows with a backstage visit cost kr4800, Landeyjahöfn on the southwest coast near
and there’s an occasional Northern Lights Hvolsvöllur. When it’s stormy, the ferry does
show (kr2000). There are also combo tours leave from here, though. There’s little other
including riding or meals (restaurant open reason to come.
10am to 10pm), and Reykjavík pick-up.
Þorlákshöfn is served by Strætó bus 74
7 Shopping from Selfoss (kr1260, 45 minutes, three daily
Monday to Friday).
Vínbúðin ALCOHOL

(%481 3932; Sunnumörk 2; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu,
to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) National liquor chain.

88 Getting There & Away Eyrarbakki

The bus stop is at the petrol stations on the POP 520
main road into town (check whether your stop is
the Shell or N1). It’s hard to believe, but tiny Eyrarbakki was
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: Iceland’s main port and a thriving trading
¨¨Buses 51 & 52 Reykjavík–Vík/Höfn & Rey- town well into the 20th century. Today the
kjavík–Landeyjahöfn (Reykjavík–Hveragerði seaside town is known for its prison – the
kr1260, 35 minutes, 11 daily Monday to Friday, largest in Iceland – and its good museums
eight daily Saturday and Sunday). and nearby nature reserve.
Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
¨¨Bus 12/12A Reykjavík–Höfn stops in Hver- 1 Sights
agerði.
oFlói Nature Reserve NATURE RESERVE
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
¨¨Buses 9/9A Reykjavík–Þórsmörk, 11/11a Rey- Birdwatchers should head 3km northwest
kjavík–Landmannalaugar, 17/17a Reykjavík–Mý- of Eyrarbakki to Flói Nature Reserve, an
vatn, 18 Reykjavík–Álftavatn–Emstrur, 20/20a important estuary and marshland on the
Reykjavík–Skaftafell, 21/21a Reykjavík–Vík and eastern bank of the Ölfusá. It’s visited by
610/610a Reykjavík–Kjölur–Akureyri all stop in many wetland birds (common species in-
Hveragerði. clude red-throated divers and various kinds
of ducks and geese) most present during
nesting season (May to July). There’s a 2km

124 oHafið Bláa SEAFOOD €€
circular hiking trail through the marshes. (%483 1000; www.hafidblaa.is; Óseyri; mains
For more information, contact the Icelandic kr2500-6000; h11am-9pmJun-Aug,reduced hours
Society for the Protection of Birds (%562 Sep-May) Three kilometres west of Eyrarbak-
0477; www.fuglavernd.is).

oHúsið á Eyrarbakka MUSEUM ki on Rte 34, this seafood restaurant sits on
the water’s edge in an ovoid building, with a
(House at Eyrarbakki; %483 1504; www.husid. beautiful arcing-wood interior. Even if you
com; Hafnarbrú 3; adult/child incl Sjöminjasafnið
á Eyrarbakka kr1000/free; h11am-6pm mid-May– don’t get a table overlooking the ocean, the
sweeping estuary views on the opposite side
mid-Sep) One of Iceland’s oldest houses, built are equally impressive. The menu offers a
by Danish traders in 1765, Húsið á Eyrarbak-
ka has glass display cabinets explaining the small range of seafood and lamb.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ST hlteoeekSpkoisnuegtyh&r iE at i ng town’s history, interesting rooms restored 88 Getting There & Away
with original furniture, and a stuffed bird
collection. Keep an eye out for Ólöf Sveins- Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
dóttir’s shawl, hat and cuffs, knitted from ¨¨Bus 74 Selfoss–Stokkseyri–Eyrarbakki–
her own hair. Þorlákshöfn (kr420, 30 minutes, three daily
Monday to Friday).
Sjöminjasafnið á Eyrarbakka MUSEUM ¨¨Bus 75 Selfoss–Eyrarbakki (kr420, 30 min-
utes, six daily Monday to Friday, four Saturday).
(%483 1082; Túngata 59; adult/child incl Húsið
á Eyrarbakka kr100/free; h11am-6pm May-Sep)
Just behind Húsið á Eyrarbakka, this small
maritime museum has displays on the local Stokkseyri
fishing community. Its main exhibit is the
beautiful 12-oared fishing boat, Farsæll. POP 460

4 Sleeping & Eating Stokkseyri can seem like Eyrarbakki’s twin
to the east, but it actually quietly asserts its
Eyrarbakki is a fishing port, and the restau- own unique character. Although it, too, is
rants do a great job with seafood. a small fishing village, it has a fun dose of
quirky sites and summer art galleries that
Bakki Hostel & make it an entertaining high-season stop.

Apartments HOSTEL, APARTMENTS € 1 Sights & Activities
(%788 8200; www.bakkihostel.is; Eyrargata 51-
53; dm/studio kr5300/24,000; p) This broad Veiðisafnið MUSEUM

building offers 6-bed dorms that share a (%483 1558; www.hunting.is; Eyrarbraut 49; adult/
child kr1500/750; h11am-6pm Apr-Sep, 11am-
living area and kitchen, and studio or one- 6pm Sat & Sun Feb, Mar, Oct & Nov) You may be
bedroom self-catering apartments, some
with sea views. snagged by the roadside sign: ‘Have you
seen a giraffe today?’ Here a local hunter dis-
plays his collection of prey from all around
oSea Side Cottages COTTAGE €€ the world. It’s very professionally done,
(%898 1197; www.seasidecottages.is; Eyrargata
37a; cottages from kr22,800) Living up to their with dozens of well-lit taxidermied animals
accompanied by info on where they were
name, these two quaint cottages are just me- killed and how. We’re talking zebras, boars
tres away from the pounding Atlantic, be-
hind a protective berm. Each is tricked out and two full-sized lions, among many oth-
ers (yes, a giraffe). A chat with the friendly
in fine fashion, with thoughtful antiques, owner brings fascinating stories, but this
flat-screen TVs, fully equipped kitchens and
outdoor seating. museum plainly won’t appeal to everyone.

oRauða Húsið SEAFOOD €€ Draugasetrið EXHIBITION

(%483 3330; www.raudahusid.is; Búðarstígur 4; (Ghost Centre; %483 1202; www.draugasetrid.is;
Hafnargata 9; adult/child kr2000/1000, incl Ice-
mains kr3000-6000; h11.30am-10pm Jun-Aug, landic Wonders kr3500/1500; h1-6pm Jun-Aug)
reduced hours Sep-May) This elegant white-
linen restaurant fills a red house (hence the Draugasetrið, on the top floor of a huge
maroon-and-black warehouse in the centre,
name), and has cheery staff and great fresh is a veritable haunted house run by a gag-
seafood, though the menu is broad, with
plenty to choose from. gle of blood-thirsty teens. A 50-minute iPod
guide (in many languages) recites 24 spooky

125

stories in a series of dry-ice-filled stations. Freyja B&B B&B €€
Not recommended for small fry. There’s a (%567 1060; www.bbfreyja.com; Blomsturvel-
water-view cafe, too. On the other side of lir 2; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast
the building, the accompanying Icelandic kr11,700/15,300; hMay-Sep) Tina and Tofi wel-
Wonders (%483 1202; www.icelandicwonders. come guests to an immaculate ranch house
com; adult/child kr1500/990; h10am-6pm Mon- in the village of Stokkseyri. The only down-
Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug) involves trolls, side is there’s no shared kitchen.
elves and Northern Lights (so is a better bet
for youngsters). oVið Fjöruborðið SEAFOOD €€
(%483 1550; www.fjorubordid.is; Eyrabraut 3a;
mains kr3200-6000; hnoon-9pm Jun-Aug, 5-9pm
Orgelsmiðjan ORGAN WORKSHOP

(%566 8130; www.orgel.is; Hafnargata 9; adult/ Sep-May) This large seafood restaurant sits
child kr700/free; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, by appoint-
ment Sat & Sun) Iceland’s only organ builder, on the shore, just behind the ocean berm, So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TF lohóuearShsoruetphp u r
and is known for making some of the best
Björgvin Tómasson, built a gamelan-celesta lobster bisque in Iceland. Slurp your bisque
instrument for Björk, and allows visitors to amid chatting locals, glass fishing buoys and
his workshop, with exhibits and occasion- marine memorabilia. Reserve for dinner.
al concerts. Find it on the seashore side of
Draugasetrið’s warehouse. 88 Getting There & Away

Sundlaug Stokkseyrar SWIMMING Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
¨¨Bus 74 Selfoss–Stokkseyri–Eyrarbakki–
(%480 3260; adult/child kr900/150; h1-9pm Þorlákshöfn (kr420, 20 minutes, three daily
Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun–mid-Aug, re- Monday to Friday).
duced hours mid-Aug–May) The town’s swim- ¨¨Bus 75 Selfoss–Eyrarbakki (kr420, 20 min-
ming pool and hot-pots. utes, six daily Monday to Friday, four Saturday).

T Tours

Kajakferðir Stokkseyri KAYAKING TOUR Flóahreppur

(%868 9046; www.kajak.is; Heiðarbrún 24; hApr- For being so close to the most travelled por-
Oct) Explore the nearby lagoon by kayak tion of the Ring Road, it’s a wonder you can
or get out on the ocean (tours kr4950 to feel like you’ve fallen into a rural region of
kr9600). Based at the town pool, Sundlaug rolling pastures leading to the ocean. Bor-
Stokkseyrar. dered by the Ring Road in the north, Rte 34
in the west, the Þjórsá river in the east, and
4 Sleeping & Eating the Atlantic Ocean in the south, this small
agricultural area has a few laid-back farms
For cheap meals, there’s a grill at the Shell with accommodation.
petrol station.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Art Hostel HOSTEL, APARTMENTS €
(%854 4510; www.arthostel.is; Hafnargata 9; dm Head to Selfoss or Stokkseyri for food –
kr4500,d with/without bathroom kr20,000/14,000) Flóahreppur is quite rural.
On the 2nd floor of the central culture com-
plex and warehouse, above mosaic, paint-
ing and photography galleries, you’ll find oJulia’s Guesthouse
B&B €
(%856 4788; www.julias-guesthouse.com;
a 15-person dorm, small twins, and larger Hnaus; d/tr without bathroom incl breakfast
studios with microwaves and bathrooms.
There’s a cafe-bar, too (open 1pm to 5pm kr10,400/12,200; p) Friendly Julia from Swit-
June to August). zerland runs this charming guesthouse in
the countryside to perfection. A menagerie
Kvöldstjarnan GUESTHOUSE €€ including birds, cats and a bunny fill this
(Evening Star; %483 1800; www.kvoldstjarnan.is;
Stjörnusteinum 7; d without bathroom incl break- immaculate house with life, and Julia and
her husband Mike have decorated with great
fast kr16,500, 3-bedroom apt kr31,400) The five love, plus they create a sumptuous home-
bright, white rooms here come with wash-
basins and fluffy feathery duvets. There’s made breakfast. Some rooms have wonder-
ful views, and the triple room has its own
a small lounge area, a hot-pot, a barbecue toilet. Cash only.
and a sparkling kitchen. There’s also an
apartment.

126 THOSTEL € Tours
Gaulverjaskóli HI Hostel
(%551 0654; www.south-hostel.is; Gaulverjaskóli; Iceland South Coast Travel
TOURS
sites per person kr1000, dm/s/d/f without bath- (%777 0705; www.isct.is) Bundle of tours in-
room kr4700/7100/13,500/25,500; hFeb-Oct; clude the south coast (from kr39,000), Gold-
p) Friendly owners have poured their en Circle, Vestmannaeyjar or Jökulsárlón.
hearts into renovating this former school; Based in Selfoss, but can do Reykjavík and
today it’s a clean, quiet hostel and camp- various south-coast pick-ups.
ground with a welcoming common space in
Sleeping
4the attic and a spacious kitchen. It’s based in
a tiny hamlet marooned in a vast expanse of
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ST hieglehfStoossus&thAct i v i t i e s flat agricultural land, 9km from Stokkseyri There are loads of accommodation options
along the coastal road leading back towards in and around Selfoss, so it can be a con-
Selfoss. HI members get a kr700 discount. venient base for taking day trips around the
south.

Vatnsholt GUESTHOUSE €€ oGeirakot GUESTHOUSE €
(%482 4829; www.hotelvatnsholt.is; Vatnsholti
2; d with/without bathroom kr23,700/19,500, cot- (%482 1020; [email protected]; Geirakot farm;
s/d without bathroom incl breakfast kr8400/14,000;
tages from kr24,400; hmid-Feb–mid-Dec; i) A hFeb-Oct) Sweet Geirakot is a nice alterna-
wonderful place if you have the kids in tow,
Vatnsholt is located about 16km southeast tive to Selfoss town. A friendly family on a
dairy farm has renovated the grandparents’
of Selfoss, just 8km off the Ring Road. Here small farmhouse into a homey guesthouse.
you’ll find over 30 sun-filled bedrooms and
cottages scattered throughout a sweeping Breakfast is lovely, local and served on chi-
na. Sleeping-bag space is kr8300. Book
farmstead with views to Eyjafjallajökull, through Icelandic Farm Holidays (www.
Hekla and Vestmannaeyjar. It does buffet
meals, too. farmholidays.is).

Bike rentals, a restaurant, a menagerie of Selfoss HI Hostel HOSTEL €
animals (including Elvis the dancing goat)
and an elaborate playground could have you (%482 1600; www.hostel.is; Austurvegur 28;
dm/s/d without bathroom kr5400/10,700/14,600)
staying longer than you expect. There’s plenty of common space and com-

fortable lounge chairs, plus a hot tub. HI
members get a kr700 discount.
Selfoss
Gesthús CAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE €€
POP 6940 (%482 3585; www.gesthus.is; Engjavegur 56; sites
per person kr1400, d/tr kr16,200/19,400; p) At
Selfoss is the largest town in southern Ice- this friendly place by the park, choose be-
land, an important centre for getting busi- tween camping, doubles in two-room cab-
ness done, and relatively ugly unless you ins with shared kitchen and bathroom, or
get into the neighbourhoods. Iceland’s Ring a full summer house with kitchenette and
Road is its main street, so the primary rea- TV. Hot-pots cost kr300 for campers, but are
son to stop is to transfer buses or to load up free for other guests.
on groceries.

1 Sights & Activities oIcelandic Cottages COTTAGES €€€

Bobby Fischer Center MUSEUM (%898 0728; www.icelandiccottages.is; Hraun-

(%894 1275; www.fischersetur.is; Austurvegur mörk; cottage kr33,000) These ubercool mod-
21; adult/child kr1000/free; h1-4pm mid-May–
mid-Sep) This little museum houses the ern cottages dot the lava fields 18km east
of Selfoss, just north of the Ring Road on
memorabilia of chess champion Bobby Rte 30. They’re beautifully kitted out, have
Fischer, who is buried 2km northeast in
Laugardælirkirkja’s cemetery. terraces and barbecues, and sleep up to six
people. Two-night minimum.

Sundhöll Selfoss GEOTHERMAL POOL, HOT-POT oBella Apartments &

(%480 1960; Tryggvagata 15; adult/child Rooms APARTMENT €€€
kr900/150; h6.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm
Sat & Sun) Selfoss has a fine geothermal (%859 6162; www.bellaguesthouse.is; Austurve-
gur 33-35; d/apt kr29,200/46,300) This brand-
swimming pool, with hot-pots, water slides new property on the main street combines
and a kids’ play pool.
comfortable double rooms and luxury two-
bedroom apartments, complete with bal-

Selfoss e#0 127
A 0
Hveragerði (12km); B C 500 m
Reykjavík (55km) 0.25 miles
1
Suðurlandsvegur HeiðavEeygruarveSgumráratún D 6D 6
1

Ölfusá 3»1 66
2 So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le SET hae tlefi nSogosusth
Miðtún 2
Artún
J orutun

Selfosskirkja Fagurgerði Hörðuvellir Árvegur Bónus (500m);
Ü#
610 Grænuvellir DHella (33km)
ú# 8 7 â# 1 ÿ#3

þó r istún Kirkjuvegur5 ÿ#ï# ú# Auú#sturvegur ú# ò# ÿ#

3 96 3»1 3
Bus Stop›#
Sigtún 2
Tryggvagata
#ã
Bankavegur
11 þ# Vallholt

Geirakot (2.4km); 666Sólvellir Reynivellir Rauðholt
Flói Nature
Reserve (5km);
Eyrarbakki (12km);
Stokkseyri (14km)

4 Foss Engjavegur 4

D 4

S#

CD
heiði B

Selfoss 666A

6 Selfoss HI Hostel .....................................C3
ú Eating

7 Kaffi Krús ..................................................B3
8 Krónan ......................................................B3
æ Sights
1 Bobby Fischer Center ............................ C3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours

662 Sundhöll Selfoss ..................................... B3
9 Sunnlenska Bókakaffið ...........................C3
10 Tryggvaskáli .............................................B3
ÿ Sleeping
3 Bella Apartments & Rooms................... C3
4 Gesthús .................................................... D4 þ Shopping
5 Hótel Selfoss ........................................... A3 11 Vínbúðin....................................................D3

conies and furnished kitchens. The apart- facilities, including a large spa and a good
ments can sleep up to seven people, and in-house restaurant. Get a room overlooking
there are washer/dryer facilities for all. the lovely river, not the dire car park.

Hótel Selfoss HOTEL €€€ 5 Eating
(%480 2500; www.hotelselfoss.is; Eyravegur 2;
s/d from kr30,000/42,300; i) This 99-room Selfoss is the best place in the south to stock
behemoth near the bridge looks horrendous up on groceries before setting off for remote
from the outside, but it has a calm interior areas. It has most major supermarkets, in-
with snappy business-style rooms and great cluding Bónus (%481 3710; Larsenstræti 5;
h11am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7.30pm Fri, to 6pm

128

Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) and Krónan (%585 7195; ¨¨Bus 74 Selfoss–Stokkseyri–Eyrarbakki–
Austurvegur 3-5; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Þorlákshöfn (kr420 to kr1260, three daily
Sun), a bakery and plenty of fast-food outlets. Monday to Friday).
¨¨Bus 75 Selfoss–Eyrarbakki (kr420, 20 min-
CAFE € utes, six daily Monday to Friday, four Saturday).
Sunnlenska Bókakaffið
(%482 3079; Austurvegur 22; cakes kr900;
hnoon-6pm Mon-Sat) This independent Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
bookshop (with both new and secondhand ¨¨Bus 12/12a Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn, (kr1520, 55
books) also offers coffee and cake. minutes, one daily June to mid-September);
610/610A Reykjavík–Kjölur–Akureyri also
stops.
oTryggvaskáli ICELANDIC €€ Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
(%482 1390; www.tryggvaskali.is; Austurvegur 1; ¨¨Buses 9/9a Reykjavík–Þórsmörk, 11/11A Rey-
mains kr3300-6000; h11.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to kjavík–Landmannalaugar, 17/17a Reykjavík–Mý-
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le WTS heeostpSpeoriunntghÞj ó rsárd a l u r 11pm Fri & Sat) Tryggvaskáli fills Selfoss’ first vatn, 18 Reykjavík–Álftavatn–Emstrur, 20/20a
house (built for bridge workers in 1890). Reykjavík–Skaftafell, 21/21a Reykjavík–Skógar
Lovingly renovated and on the riverfront and 610/610a Reykjavík–Kjölur–Akureyri all
with a romantic mood, the intimate dining stop in Selfoss.
rooms are filled with antique touches, and Trex (www.trex.is) services:
the fine-dining Icelandic menu sources lo- ¨¨Bus T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar (Sel-
cal produce. The owners also operate Kaffi foss–Landmannalaugar kr7500, three hours,
Krús. two daily mid-June to mid-September).

Kaffi Krús INTERNATIONAL €€ ¨¨Bus T11 Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (Selfoss–
(%482 1266; www.kaffikrus.is; Austurvegur 7; Þórsmörk kr6300, 3¼ hours, two daily mid-
mains kr2000-3600; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug, re- June to mid-September).

duced hours Sep-May) The ‘Coffee Mug’ is a
popular cafe in a charming old house along
the main road. There’s great outdoor space Western Þjórsárdalur
and a large selection of Icelandic and inter-
national dishes, from nachos to excellent The powerful Þjórsá is Iceland’s longest riv-
pizza and burgers. er, a fast-flowing, churning mass of milky
glacial water that courses 230km from Vat-
najökull down to the Atlantic. Including its
tributaries, it accounts for almost one-third
7 Shopping of Iceland’s hydroelectric power. Rte 32 fol-
lows the western side of the river, and as
Vínbúðin ALCOHOL it moves upstream and into the highlands
you’ll traverse broad plains, split by the
(%482 2011; Vallholt 19; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to enormous river, that lead to volcanic fields
7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) National liquor chain.

88 Information and finally the foothills of the mountains be-
yond. It is a relatively untouristed area, with
Árborg Tourist Information Centre (% 480 Viking ruins, hidden waterfalls and river
1990; http://tourinfo.arborg.is; Eyravegur 2; landscapes that feel prehistoric.
h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri May-Aug) In the same
building as Hótel Selfoss (p127); the tourist Rte 32 is one of the preferred ways to
office in Hveragerði is better. reach Landmannalaugar (the starting point
for the famous Laugavegurinn hike) by
88 Getting There & Away vehicle (via the 4WD-only Rte F26). It’s also
possible (if you don’t have a 4WD) to make
Most buses between Reykjavík and Höfn, Skaf- a day’s loop up this side of the valley, cross
tafell, Fjallabak, Þórsmörk, Flúðir, Gullfoss, over the river after the Búrfell Hydroelectric
Laugarvatn and Vík stop at the N1 station in Plant and return down the other side of the
Selfoss. valley to Hella on Rte 26.
Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
¨¨Buses 51 & 52 Reykjavík–Vík/Höfn & Rey- There are also horse riding companies
kjavík–Landeyjahöfn (kr1680, 50 minutes, 11 peppering the journey along Rte 32.
daily Monday to Friday, eight daily Saturday and
Sunday). There is no public transport beyond
Árnes. Bring your own wheels or come with
¨¨Buses 72 & 73 Selfoss–Flúðir (kr2100, 40 to a local tour operator.
60 minutes, two daily).

129

Árnes TRAUSTHOLTSHÓLMI PRIVATE
ISLAND
Stop in the tiny settlement of Árnes, near So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TWoheuesrtSseorunthÞj ó rsárd a l u r
the junction of Rtes 30 and 32, where a Go with Hákon to check his salmon fish-
large white building houses the informa- ing nets and explore his grass-covered
tive Þjórsárstofa (Þjórsá Visitor Centre; %486 private island (%699 4256; www.thh.
6115; www.thjorsarstofa.is; h10am-6pm Jun- is; tour per person kr22,000; hby reserva-
Aug) F. It has an excellent 10-minute tion) in the Þjórsá river before settling
surround-sound-style film about the river down to a dinner of fresh-caught fish
valley and what you will see further along, and island-grown herbs, and perhaps
and a film about the aurora borealis, as a campfire. You can book to stay over
well as multimedia displays and a good in his yurt, and he may have a guest-
restaurant. house in 2017. Check online for current
offerings.
T Tours

Núphestar HORSE RIDING

(%852 5930; www.nupshestar.is; Breiðanes) This Þjórsárstofa Restaurant ICELANDIC €€
friendly, family-run horse farm offers short
rides (one-/two-hour ride kr6000/8500) and (Matstofan; %664 6555; www.arnesferdamenn.
is; mains kr1800-3200; h10am-9pm Jun-Aug, to
multiday tours. It’s near the junction of Rtes 7pm Sep-May) The Þjórsárstofa has a good
30 and 32.
restaurant with an ever-changing menu of
regional cuisine and local beers. It also op-
Steinsholt HORSE RIDING erates the nearby campground (sites per

(%486 6069; www.steinsholt.is; Steinsholt II) adult/child kr1300/free).
This tidy horse farm offers multiday riding
trips, hourly tours (one-/two-hour rides
kr6500/11,000) and cosy accommodation 88 Getting There & Away
(doubles with/without bathroom including
breakfast kr15,400/18,700). Find it at the end From the junction of Rtes 30 and 32, Strætó
of Rte 326, just north of Árnes. buses 72 and 73 connect to bus 76 (two daily
Monday to Friday) to Árnes. (Buses to Land-
4 Sleeping & Eating mannalaugar follow a route further east.)

Árnes HI Hostel HOSTEL € Búrfell & Around
(%486 6048; www.hostel.is; dm kr4750; hApr-
Sep) This hostel isn’t the cosiest place on As the Þjórsá’s valley gets more remote
earth, but it has serviceable twin rooms and inland, the drama and unusual sights in-
dorm space, a guest kitchen, and a small crease. The austere black-stone river delta
pool nearby (kr1000; open June to August). around Búrfell Hydroelectric Power Sta-
tion leads to jagged mountains and hidden
Guesthouse Denami FARMSTAY €€ valleys.
(%698 7090; www.tolt.nu/denami; d with/without
bathroom incl breakfast kr19,500/14,000) Stay on There is no public transport. Come
a lovely family-run horse farm in the lush with your own wheels or with a local tour
rolling countryside on the north edge of operator.
Árnes. Rooms are simple but tidy, and views
of the nearby volcanoes can be magnificent. 1 Sights

Fosshotel Hekla HOTEL €€ The following sights are arranged in
(%486 5540; www.hotelhekla.is; Brjánsstaðir; d/q the order you’ll encounter them driving
northeast on Rte 32.

incl breakfast from kr29,000/32,000; i) As you Hjálparfoss WATERFALL

head up the Þjórsá valley, this hotel complex Twenty-six kilometres northeast of Árnes
along Rte 32, take a short (1km) detour
sits just off Rte 30, 17km before Árnes. Large, along a signposted track to this delightful
modern doubles have flat-screen TVs; excel-
lent family rooms are bigger still. The lounge waterfall. The azure falls tumble in two
chutes over twisted basalt columns and
feels like a warm library, and the restaurant into a deep pool.
serves up good Icelandic staples using local
produce. A hot-pot and sauna add to the fun.

(Continued on page 134)

GIEDRIIUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©1 30 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1. Arctic fox 2. Seal pup 3. Humpback whale
4. Puffins

MAKSIMILIAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EMKA74/SHUTTERSTOCK © 131

MENNO SCHAEFER/SHUTTERSTOCK © Wildlife
Watching

Iceland’s magical natural realm is the
playground for some headlining acts,
including breaching whales, basking
seals, elusive Arctic foxes and bumper
bird life (the scene stealer: cute, clownish
puffins, of course). The support cast of
wandering sheep and wild-maned horses
are still impossibly photogenic against a
cinematic, mountainous backdrop.

The bird life in Iceland is abundant,
especially during the warmest months
when migrating species arrive to nest.
On coastal cliffs and islands around the
country, you can see a mind-boggling
array of seabirds. Posted coastal hikes
offer access to some of the most populous
bird cliffs in the world – don’t miss a
chance to cavort with puffins (p40).

Whale watching has become one of
Iceland’s most cherished pastimes – boats
depart throughout the year (limited
service in the colder months) to catch
a glimpse of these lurking beasts as
they wave their fins and spray the air.
The northern waters around Húsavík
and Akureyri are a haven for feeding
creatures (usually minke and fin species);
travellers who are short on time can
hop on a boat that departs directly from
downtown Reykjavík (p68). In winter, it’s
possible to see orcas crash through the
frigid waters – the best point of departure
is the Snæfellsnes Peninsula (p181).

BEST WILDLIFE-WATCHING SPOTS

Vestmannaeyjar (p163) Zoom between
islets as you snap photos of a Peterson
Field Guide’s worth of bird life.
Borgarfjörđur Eystri (p295) It’s like
you’ve died and gone to puffin heaven,
where encounters with these clumsy birds
are up close and personal.
Húsavík (p270) Sample Iceland’s original
flavour of whale watching at this charming
fishing village. There are tours aplenty,
especially in summer.

©Lone- ARIIET / GETTY IMAGES ©

SIMON DANNHAUER / GETTY IMAGES ©

132

133NONTHACHAI SAKSRI / GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Þingvellir National Park (p111) TATONKA / GETTY IMAGES ©
The location of Iceland’s original outdoor
parliament, dramatically situated in a fissured
rift valley.
2. Kirkjufell (p186)
The distinctive symmetrical shape of Kirkjufell
makes it one of the most photographed spots in
Iceland.
3. Whale watching
Eleven species of whale are regulary spotted
around the coast of Iceland. Húsavík (p270) is the
top spot for whale-watching tours.
4. Northern Lights
The result of solar wind, the Northern Lights
or aurora borealis, are best seen between mid-
September and mid-April.

1 3 4 (Continued from page 129)

Þjóðveldisbærinn NOTABLE BUILDING of the river Þjórsá merging into increasingly
mind-blowing volcanic formations and lava
(%488 7713; www.thjodveldisbaer.is; adult/ fields until you reach Hekla – one of Ice-
child kr750/free; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug) land’s most ominous volcanoes.
Þjóðveldisbærinn is a reconstruction of
Stöng, exactly reproducing its layout and its The road to Hekla – Rte 26 – winds its
neighbouring church. Find it near the en- way beyond a cluster of horse farms, offer-
trance to the Búrfell Power Station. ing a variety of riding trips, and connects
with Rte 32, which can take you down the
oStöng RUIN equally dramatic western side of the river
valley.
F Buried by white volcanic ash in 1104
during one of Hekla’s eruptions, this ancient Most buses to Landmannalaugar go via
farm once belonged to Gaukur Trandilsson, Rte 26.
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le EST hal eseetSpeoirnungtÞh&j óErastái nrgd a l u r
a 10th-century Viking who lived a tempest- 1 Sights
uous life. Excavated in 1939 (Iceland’s first
proper archaeological dig), it’s an impor- Hellnahellir CAVE

tant site, used to help date Viking houses (%847 5015; www.hellar.is; adult/child kr1000/
free; hby appointment) This austere human-
elsewhere. The ruins are covered by a large made cave built into the earth beneath
wooden shelter at the end of a rough 5km
dirt road that branches off Rte 32 about Skarðsfjall on the farm Hellar in Landsve-
it dates to 700 to 1100 years ago. In 2016 it
26km northeast of Árnes. The site has toilets was opened to the public for the first time.
and water.
Find it on Rte 26 about 5km northeast of the
oGjáin CANYON turn-off for the Heimaland guesthouse.

A walking path from Stöng farm takes you Hekla Center EXHIBITION
a couple of kilometres to a lovely lush little
valley, Gjáin, full of twisting lava, other- (Heklusetrið; %487 8700; www.leirubakki.is; Lei-
rubakki; adult/child kr900/450; h9am-10pm Jun-
worldly caves and spectacular waterfalls. Aug, 10am-10pm Sep-May; p) The Hekla Center
The dirt road from Stöng also continues on
to the upper ridge of the valley. Gjáin simply is part of the Leirubakki compound (camp-
ing, hotel, restaurant, petrol). It details the
means ‘rift’, and it was a filming location in explosive history of Hekla in a deliberately
Game of Thrones.
dark building with flashing lights and multi-
oHáifoss media exhibits. You’ll learn that the volcano
WATERFALL

From Stöng you can walk 9km north- is long overdue to erupt. The centre also has
east along a 4WD track to Iceland’s sec- regional information, and offers horse rid-
ond-highest waterfall, Háifoss, which ing, and local walks.
plunges 122m off the edge of a plateau into
an undulating lava canyon. You can also get T Tours
most of the way there by 4WD.
The many horse farms around the Þjórsárd-
4 Sleeping & Eating alur offer rides, and most have high-quality
guesthouse accommodation.
There are no grocery stores or restaurants
anywhere nearby, so provision or eat before Skeiðvellir HORSE RIDING
arriving.
(Icelandic HorseWorld; %487 6572, horse riding
899 5619; www.skeidvellir.is; Skeiðvellir farm) This
well-regarded horse-breeding farm offers
Sandartunga Camping CAMPGROUND €
([email protected]; sites per adult/child
kr1000/free; hmid-May–Aug) This simple rides (one-/two-hour ride kr8000/15,000)
and excellent accommodation (studio/
campground has water and toilets. The cottage kr14,000/28,700). Find it on Rte 26
blessing is its grand setting in the broad lava about 9km north of Rte 1.
fields and river valley of the Þjórsá.
Hekluhestar HORSE RIDING

(%487 6598; www.hekluhestar.is; Austvaðsholt)
Hidden along Rtes 271 and 272, 9km north-
Eastern Þjórsárdalur east of Hella, a friendly French-Icelandic
family specialises in six- to eight-day high-
Between the township of Hella to the south- land rides (from kr227,000). Sleeping-bag
west and Landmannalaugar to the northeast, accommodation is available (kr4500, linen
you’ll find the sweeping seaside floodplains

135

kr2000) in a cosy dorm. Book ahead for above a bubbling stream. On Rte 281, 7km
tours. northwest of Hella.

Kálfholt HORSE RIDING Herríðarhóll HORSE RIDING

(%487 5176; www.kalfholt.is; Kálfholt 2, Ásahreppi; (%487 5252; www.herridarholl.is; Herríðarhóli) S
c) This family-run farm offers one of the Multiday horse tours (from kr227,000) and
best ranges of hourly rides, day trips and short rides (one hour kr7000), plus a warm
two- to eight-day treks for every skill lev- welcome to those who simply want a farm-
el (two-hour ride kr11,500, children’s ride stay (double with shared bathroom, includ-
kr3,900). On Rte 288, 17km west of Hella ing breakfast kr16,000). West of Hella, then
and south of the Ring Road. Comfy lodging 6km north of the Ring Road on Rte 284.
is in two little cabins (per person kr7000).
4 Sleeping & Eating
Hestheimar HORSE RIDING So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le EST hal eseetSpeoirnungtÞh&j óErastái nrgd a l u r
Most of the horse farms in the plains around
(%487 6666; www.hestheimar.is) Take family- Hella have good accommodation options for
run riding trips (two-hour/one-day ride their riders and welcome other travellers as
kr12,000/20,000), rent horses, or bunk in well.
a variety of comfortable accommodation
(double from kr11,900) at this horse farm You’ll find most eating options are part of
hotel and guesthouse complexes.

HEKLA

The name of Iceland’s most famous and active volcano means ‘Hooded One’, as its
1491m-high summit is almost always shrouded in ominous-looking clouds. Hekla has
vented its fury numerous times throughout history, and during the Middle Ages it was
commonly believed to be the gateway to hell.

Viking-era settlers built farms on the rich volcanic soils around Hekla, only to be wiped
out by the eruption of 1104, which buried everything within a radius of 50km. Since then
there have been 15 major eruptions; the 1300 eruption covered more than 83,000 sq km
in ash.

In recent years hellish Hekla has been belching out ash in steady 10-year intervals.
This ash has a high fluorine content and has poisoned thousands of sheep. The most
recent eruption (in 2000) produced a small pyroclastic flow (a high-speed and highly
destructive torrent of rock particles and gas, which typically travels at over 130km per
hour and can reach temperatures of 800°C). As you travel the region, look for grey pum-
ice…it’s probably from Hekla.

Locals live with the knowledge that the mighty mound could erupt at any time; it is
long overdue.

For more on Hekla, check out the exhibition at the Hekla Center.

Climbing Hekla
You can climb Hekla, but there’s never much warning before eruptions, usually indicated
by multiple small earthquakes 30 to 80 minutes before it blows. Stick to days when the
summit is free of heavy clouds, and carry plenty of water – the area’s ash makes you
thirsty. Most climbs are done June to September.

There’s a small car park where mountain road F225 branches off Rte 26 (about 45km
northeast of Hella). Most hire cars aren’t allowed on F roads and need to be parked
here, but it’s a long and dusty walk (16km) to the foot of the volcano (or try your luck at
hitching).

With a large 4WD you can continue along F225 to the trailhead at the bottom of Hekla
(about 14.7km); the largest vehicles can continue a few kilometres further, but most have
to park here. From this lower trailhead, a well-marked path climbs steadily up to the ridge
on the northeastern flank of the mountain, then onto the summit crater; expect snow
walking at altitude. Although the peak is often covered in snow, the floor of the crater is
still hot. The trip to the summit takes about 3½ hours.

Alternatively, you can organise bespoke super-Jeep tours from anywhere in the
region.

136

Laugaland CAMPGROUND € Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
(%895 6543; www.tjalda.is/en/laugaland; sites per ¨¨Bus 13/13a Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar
adult/child kr1100/free) Family camping com- (Reykjavík–Leirubakki kr6000, 2½ hours, one
plex northwest of Hella on Rte 26. There’s daily late June to early September).
also a swimming pool and hot-pots (adult/ Trex (www.trex.is) services:
child kr700/300). ¨¨Bus T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar (Rey-
kjavík–Leirubakki kr5400, 2½ hours, two daily
Rjúpnavellir COTTAGE, CAMPGROUND € mid-June to mid-September).
(%892 0409; www.rjupnavellir.is; Landsveit; sites
per person kr1500) Just where the paved road
ends, and the closest accommodation to
the Rte 26–F225 junction, you’ll find these Hella & Around
two large cabins with sleeping-bag space
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le GHT he lteltSaion&gu tAThrhoeurne d& Away (kr4900; showers kr400) and cooking fa- POP 820
cilities, camping, and a six-person cottage
(kr24,000). Linen kr1800. This small agricultural community sits on
the banks of the pretty Ytri-Rangá river in
Hótel Leirubakki HOTEL €€ an important horse-breeding area in the
(%487 8700; www.leirubakki.is; Leirubakki; sites plains around the Þjórsá river. The nearest
per adult kr1000, d with/without bathroom incl town to shadow-wreathed volcano Hekla,
breakfast kr28,800/23,400; i) This large farm- 35km north, it remains relatively sleepy de-
stead is one of the last outposts before you spite the arrival of new hotels in the area.
hit volcanoes and highlands. The well-run
house and more modern hotel block are a 2 Activities & Tours
good base for Hekla climbers. The restau-
rant serves Icelandic faves like lamb and Sundlaugin Hellu GEOTHERMAL POOL, HOT-POT
trout (from a nearby stream). There’s a great (%487 5334; Útskálum 4; adult/child kr700/300;
hot-pot in the lava field, an N1 petrol pump h6.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun
and sleeping-bag accommodation (kr6100). Jun–mid-Aug, reduced hours mid-Aug–May) Hel-
la’s top attraction might be its geothermal
Hrauneyjar Highland Center HOTEL €€ swimming pool, with hot-pots, sauna and a
cool water slide (April to October) to keep
the kids happy.

(Hotel Highland; %487 7782; www.hrauneyjar. Mud Shark FISHING TOUR, JEEP TOUR

is; Hrauneyjar; guesthouse s/d incl breakfast (%691 1849; www.mudshark.is) Offerings
from kr19,900/22,500, hotel s/d incl breakfast include beach-fishing trips (kr31,000) and
kr32,050/36,250; p) This simple hotel- south-coast tours (from kr42,000).
restaurant complex is the last outpost (and
last petrol) before heading into the High- 4 Sleeping

lands. Rooms are austere for the high prices, Árhús CAMPGROUND €
but it’s in the middle of nowhere, so you’re
lucky to get anything! Sleeping-bag accom- (South Door; %487 5577; www.arhus.is; Rangár-
bakkar 6; sites per tent kr2500, cottages with/with-
modation starts at kr9600. The restaurant out bathroom from kr20,500/13,000) Set along
(mains kr1500 to kr4900) serves burgers
and sandwiches all day, and more elaborate the river, just south of the Ring Road, Árhús
has a cluster of cottages (from a simple room
lamb and fish dishes at night. to a complete cabin with kitchenette and
Northeast of Hrauneyjar, Rte F26 con-
tinues across the interior highlands as the bathroom), ample camping space, a guest
kitchen, and a top town restaurant (open
Sprengisandur route. noon to 10pm; mains kr2000 to 5000) with

88 Getting There & Away a great riverside deck.

Landmannalaugar buses stop in Leirubakki and/ oRiver Hotel HOTEL €€
or Hrauneyjar. (%487 5004; www.riverhotel.is; Þykkvabæjarvegur
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: (Rte 25); d/f kr22,000/30,000; p) Relax and
¨¨Bus 11/11a Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar watch the river glide by through giant plate-
(Reykjavík–Leirubakki kr5500, 2½ hours, three glass windows in the lounge areas of this
to four daily mid-June to mid-September). immaculate new hotel on the banks of the
¨¨Bus 17/17a Reykjavík–Mývatn (Reykjavík– Ytri-Rangá river. Contemporary rooms and a
Hrauneyjar kr7500, three hours, one daily late separate cottage are super-comfortable and
June to August). there’s an on-site restaurant for dinner. It’s

137

THE EDDAS So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le HTE haetleli nSago&u tAhr o u nd

The medieval monastery at Oddi, in Rangárvellir about 8km south of Hella on Rte 266,
was the source of the Norse Eddas, the most important surviving books of Viking poetry.
The Prose Edda was written by the poet and historian Snorri Sturluson around 1222. It
was intended to be a textbook for poets, with detailed descriptions of the language and
meters used by the Norse skalds (court poets). It also includes the epic poem ‘Gylfagin-
ning’, which describes the visit of Gylfi, the king of Sweden, to Ásgard, the citadel of the
gods. In the process, the poem reveals Norse creation myths, stories about the gods, and
the fate in store for men at Ragnarök, when this world ends.

The Poetic Edda was written later in the 13th century by Sæmundur Sigfússon. It’s
a compilation of works by unknown Viking poets, some predating the settlement of
Iceland. The first poem, ‘Voluspá’ (Sibyl’s Prophecy), is like a Norse version of Genesis
and Revelations: it covers the beginning and end of the world. Later poems deal with
the story of how Óðinn discovered the power of runes, and the legend of Siegfried and
the Nibelungs, recounted in Wagner’s Ring Cycle. The most popular poem is probably
‘Þrymskviða’, about the giant Thrym, who stole Þór’s hammer and demanded the god-
dess Freyja in marriage in exchange for its return. To get his hammer back, Þór disguised
himself as the bride-to-be and went to the wedding in her place. Much of the poem is
devoted to his appalling table manners at the wedding feast, during which he consumes
an entire ox, eight salmon and three skins of mead.

Today Oddi is simply a church and farmsteads.

ideal for Northern Lights watching as well, tures. To splash out, go for a ‘World Pavilion’
and the owners are avid anglers. suite.

Guesthouse Brenna HOUSE €€ Stracta Hótel HOTEL €€€
(%487 5532; www.guesthousebrenna.wordpress. (%531 8010; www.stractahotels.is; Rangárflatir
com; Þrúðvangur 37; house kr27,000) This ador- 4; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast from
able riverside house sleeps eight and has kr30,200/22,000, 3-/6-person studios incl break-
a little kitchen, a washing machine and a fast from kr47,000/71,300) Stracta is one of
comfy sitting room. Linen costs kr1400 per the new breed of higher-end tourist hotels.
bed. Prices drop with additional nights. No Rooms range from modern, comfortable
individual rooms rented. doubles to studios with microwaves and
refrigerators, on up to family-friendly apart-
Guesthouse Nonni GUESTHOUSE €€ ments. The upstairs restaurant has sweep-
(%894 9953; www.bbiceland.com; Arnarsan-
dur 3; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast ing views of Vestmannaeyjar and volcanoes,
but the food is rather lacklustre.
kr16,000/14,700) Run by friendly Nonni, who
loves cooking a large breakfast (fresh bread 5 Eating
and flower-shaped waffles) for his guests,
this small guesthouse on a residential street Hella has a few restaurants, and a small bak-
has four wooden-walled rooms tucked up a ery next door to the supermarket.

cork stairwell. Kjarval SUPERMARKET €

oHótel Rangá HOTEL €€€ (%585 7585; Suðurlandsvegur 1; h9am-9pm) Lo-
cal supermarket.
(%487 5700; www.hotelranga.is; Suðurlandsve-
gur; d/ste incl breakfast from kr42,000/65,400;
i) Just south of the Ring Road 8km east 88 Information
of Hella, Hótel Rangá looks like a log cabin
but caters to Iceland’s high-end travellers. Hekla Handverkshús (% 864 5531; Þrúðvan-
Service is top-notch, and the wood-panelled gur 35; h1-5pm May-Sep, 1-5pm Sat & Sun
rooms and luxurious common areas are Oct-Apr) This handicrafts cooperative doubles
as an informal tourist information desk.

cosy. The restaurant (lunch mains kr2600 88 Getting There & Away
to kr3900, dinner mains kr4800 to kr7200)
has broad windows looking across open pas- BUS
Buses stop at the Olís petrol station.

138 also an art exhibition, a longhouse coffee
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: shop and tourist information (brochures,
¨¨Buses 51 & 52 Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn and maps and helpful staff).
Reykjavík–Landeyjahöfn (Reykjavík–Hella
kr2940, 1½ hours, five daily). LAVA – Iceland Volcano &
Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
¨¨Bus 12/12a Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík– Earthquake Center EXHIBITION
Hella kr3040, 1½ hours, one daily June to
mid-September). (www.lavacentre.is; Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur;
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: adult/child kr2600/free, cinema only kr1200/free;
¨¨Buses 9/9a Reykjavík–Þórsmörk, 11/11a hexhibition 10am-7pm, LAVA house 9am-10pm)
Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar, 17/17a Rey- The new LAVA Center opens in summer 2017
kjavík–Mývatn, 18 Reykjavík–Álftavatn–Em- with a full-blown multimedia experience
strur, 20/20a Reykjavík–Skaftafell and 21/21a immersing you in Iceland’s volcanic and
Reykjavík–Skógar all stop in Hella (kr4500). seismic life, and includes a 12m-high mod-
Trex (www.trex.is) services:So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le STHhivgeohlStsosvuötlhl u r & Ar o u nd el of Iceland’s volcanic core, an earthquake
¨¨Bus T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar (Hella– simulator and a cinema. Its LAVA House is
Landmannalaugar kr6000, 2¼ hours, two daily an information centre for the region with a
mid-June to mid-September). shop and restaurant.
¨¨Bus T11 Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (Hella–
Þórsmörk kr4600, two hours, two daily mid- Keldur RUIN
June to mid-September).
(%530 2200; www.thjodminjasafn.is; kr750;
TAXI h10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) About 5km
Mountain Taxi (% 862 1864) Jón Pálsson west of Hvolsvöllur, unsurfaced Rte 264
offers a taxi service into the mountains and winds about 8km north along the Rangárvel-
Highlands. He is based in Hella but can pick up lir valley to the medieval turf-roofed farm at
anywhere. Keldur. This historic settlement once be-
longed to Ingjaldur Höskuldsson, a charac-
ter in Njál’s Saga. The structure is managed
by the National Museum Historic Buildings
Collection and has interesting historical ex-
Hvolsvöllur & Around hibits and a pastoral setting.

POP 950 T Tours

The farms around Hvolsvöllur were the set- oMidgard
ting for the bloody events of Njál’s Saga,
one of Iceland’s favourites; today, though, Adventure HIKING TOUR, ADVENTURE TOUR
the Saga sites exist mainly as place names,
peaceful grassed-over ruins or modern agri- (%770 2030; www.midgardadventure.is; Dufþaks-
cultural buildings. Hvolsvöllur itself had not braut 14) One of south Iceland’s best bespoke
been much more than a pit stop, with a cou- adventure operators; founder Siggi Bjarni
ple of petrol stations and a cluster of houses, and the other guide-owners know the area
but the advent of the new LAVA Centre and incredibly well and are tops for guided hikes
numerous guesthouses make it an increas- along Fimmvörðuháls or Laugavegurinn
ingly popular base. and beyond (from kr19,900). They offer
loads of day tours with pick-up, including
1 Sights super-Jeep trips (from kr37,900) canyoning
and ice climbing. Midgard also has a hostel
oSögusetrið MUSEUM due to open in 2017.

(Saga Centre; %487 8781; www.njala.is; Hliðarve- 4 Sleeping
gur 14, Hvolsvöllur; adult/child kr900/free; h9am-
6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun
mid-Sep–mid-May) Hvolsvöllur’s Saga Centre There are excellent sleeping options in the
is devoted to the dramatic events of Njál’s villageofHvolsvöllurandtheverdantcountry-
Saga, which took place in the surrounding side nearby, such as Fljótshlíð. The munici-
hills. Interactive displays explain the many pal campsite is just off the Ring Road in the
highlights of the story. In 2013 an intricate heart of town, and Midgard Adventure is
90m embroidery called Njál’s Saga Tap- opening a hostel in 2017.

estry was begun; visitors can pay to add Asgarður COTTAGES €
stitches to the enormous collaborative pro-
ject (kr1000; check www.njalurefill.is for the (%487 1440; www.asgardurinn.is; d without bath-
room kr13,200) These cute picket-lined in-
sewing schedule), or just observe. There’s dividual cottages cluster under a stand of

139

FJALLABAK ROUTE So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ETHhavteoilnSsgovuötlhl u r & Ar o u nd

In summer the Fjallabak (pronounced fiat-la-back; Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri) Rte (F208)
makes a spectacular alternative to the coast road between Hella, in southwest Iceland,
and Kirkjubæjarklaustur, if you have a large 4WD. Its name translates as ‘Behind the
Mountains’, and that’s exactly where it goes.

Leave the Ring Road west of Hella on Rte 26 (the east side of the Þjorsá), then take
Rte F208 from near the Sigölduvirkjun power plant until you reach Landmannalaugar.
From there, F208 continues east past the Kirkjufell marshes and beyond Jökuld-
alur, before coursing through the icy veins of a riverbed for 10km, climbing up to the
Hörðubreið lookout, then descending down into Eldgjá. Rte F235 to Langisjór lake
turns off from Rte F208 about 3km west of Eldgjá. You can camp or sleep in a hut in
Hólaskjól (www.holaskjol.com).

The 40km stretch of Rte F208 from Eldgjá to Búland is in reasonable shape, but
there are some rivers to ford before the road turns into Rte 208 and emerges back along
the Ring Road southwest of Kirkjubæjarklaustur.

Note that a 2WD vehicle wouldn’t have a hope of completing even a small portion of
the route and car-hire companies prohibit taking 2WD vehicles on F roads. Since much
of the Fjallabak Rte is along rivers (or rather, in rivers!), it’s not ideally suited to mountain
bikes either. People attempt it, but it’s not casual cycling by any stretch.

You can follow the entire route by bus by leaving Reykjavík on an early bus and switch-
ing to Skaftafell-bound Reykjavík Excursions bus 10A in Landmannalaugar. The journey
takes about 13 hours. You can break it up by spending nights at the Landmannalaugar
base and exploring the area before taking the second leg of the bus journey.

Well-established trekking company Fjallabak (%511 3070; www.fjallabak.is) leads
multiday guided treks and assisted backpacking tours throughout the southern back
country, with a speciality in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve area, which the Fjallabak Rte
passes through. Midgard Adventure (p138) is another great option.

trees. They have two bedrooms and private oEldstó Art Café CAFE €€
bathrooms and kitchenettes. A quaint re- (%482 1011; www.eldsto.is; Austurvegur 2,Hvolsvöl-
stored 1927 schoolhouse sits in the centre. lur; mains kr2000-4000; h11am-9.30pm Jun-Aug;
Made-up beds cost kr6600 and sleeping-bag p) Eldstó offers fresh-brewed coffee, home-
accommodation is kr4900. Camping is also made daily specials (such as coconut curry
available. soup), and a couple of outdoor Ring Road–

Spói Guesthouse B&B €€ side tables. Friendly owners are ceramicists
with a small on-site gallery, and also offer
(%861 8687; www.spoiguesthouse.is; Hlíðarvegur simple accommodation upstairs (doubles
15; d without bathroom kr17,000; p) This impec-
cable family-run guesthouse has a collection from kr28,000).

of pristine rooms grouped around a large Gallerí Pizza FAST FOOD €€
dining room with a broad wooden table
for the lavish breakfast. The owners offer a (%487 8440; www.gallerypizza.weebly.com;
Hvolsvegur 29; mains kr1800-3000; h11.30am-
wealth of local knowledge. 10pm) The town pizzeria, one street back

Hótel Hvolsvöllur HOTEL €€ from the main road, is a busy, no-frills place
with vinyl booths and munching locals. The
(%487 8050; www.hotelhvolsvollur.is; Hlíðarvegur Béarnaise burger is a favourite.
7; s/d incl breakfast from kr12,000/14,600; i)
This large bland-looking hotel is slightly bet- 7 Shopping
ter than it appears. The 64 rooms are often
being updated, so you could get lucky. Una Local Products ARTS & CRAFTS

5 Eating (Sveitabúðin Una; %544 5455; Austurvegur 4,
Hvolsvöllur; h10am-6pm) This large hangar on
the Ring Road is loaded with all manner of
Eating options in town aren’t brilliant. Both handmade Icelandic crafts, from fish-skin
petrol stations have grills and there’s a Kjar- purses to woolly jumpers, jewellery and
val supermarket. leather goods.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le HGT hevteotlSisonvguötlThlhuer et o& SAkwóagy a r140

NJÁL’S SAGA

One of Iceland’s best-loved (and longest) sagas is also one of the most complicated. The
story involves two friends and neighbours, Gunnar Hámundarson and Njál Þorgeirsson.
A petty squabble between their wives is a prelude to the feuds and battles that ultimately
leave almost every character dead. Written in the 13th century, it recounts 10th-century
events that took place in the hills around Hvolsvöllur.

Doomed hero Gunnar of Hlíðarendi (near Fljótsdalur) falls for and marries the beau-
tiful, hot-tempered Hallgerður, who has long legs but – ominously – a ‘thief’s eyes’. Hall-
gerður has a falling-out with Bergþóra, wife of Njál. Things become increasingly strained
between Gunnar and Njál as Hallgerður and Bergþóra begin murdering each other’s
servants.

In one important episode, Hallgerður sends a servant to burgle food from a man
named Otkell. When Gunnar comes home and sees Hallgerður’s stolen feast, his temper
snaps. ‘It’s bad news indeed if I’ve become a thief’s accomplice’, he says, and slaps his
wife – an act that later comes back to haunt him. (Spoiler alert: each of Hallgerður’s two
previous husbands was killed as a result of slapping her.)

Through more unfortunate circumstances, Gunnar ends up killing Otkell and is sen-
tenced to exile. As he rides away from home, his horse stumbles. Fatally, he takes one
last glance back at his beloved farm Hlíðarendi and is unable to leave the valley after all.
His enemies gather their forces and lay siege to the farm, but Gunnar manages to hold
off the attackers until his bowstring breaks. When he asks Hallgerður for a lock of her
hair to repair it, she refuses, reminding him of the slap she received (years earlier) – and
Gunnar is killed.

The feud continues as Gunnar and Njál’s clan members try to avenge their slaugh-
tered kin. Njál himself acts as a peace broker, forming treaties between the two families,
but in the end, the complicated peacemaking is all for naught. Njál and his wife are be-
sieged in their farm. Tucking themselves in bed with their little grandson between them,
the couple allow themselves to be burnt alive.

The only survivor of the fire is Njál’s son-in-law Kári, who launches a legal case against
the arsonists, commits a bit of extrajudicial killing himself and is finally reconciled with
his arch-enemy, Flosi, who ordered the burning of the Njál family.

Vínbúðin ALCOHOL Trex (www.trex.is) services:
¨¨Buses T11 Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (Hvolsvöllur–
(%486 1886; Austurvegur 1; h11am-6pm Mon- Þórsmörk kr4600, two hours, two daily mid-
Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) National liquor June to mid-September).
chain.

88 Getting There & Away Hvolsvöllur to Skógar

Buses to Þórsmörk stop in Hvolsvöllur. After Hvolsvöllur, the Ring Road loops east
Strætó (www.bus.is ) services: toward Skógar with three important side
¨¨Buses 51 & 52 Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn & Rey- roads. The first is Fljótshlíð (Rte 261), just at
kjavík–Landeyjahöfn (Reykjavík–Hvolsvöllur the eastern end of Hvolsvöllur; the second is
kr3360, 1¾ hours, five daily). Rte 254, which shoots south 12km to Land-
Sterna (www.sterna.is) services: eyjahöfn where the ferry leaves for Vestman-
¨¨Bus 12/12a Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík– naeyjar; and the third is Rte 249 north to
Hvolsvöllur kr3420, 1¾ hours, one daily June to Þórsmörk passing Seljalandsfoss. Staying on
mid-September). the Ring Road, will bring you along the base
of hulking Eyjafjallajökull, made famous
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: with its ashy 2010 explosion.
¨¨Buses 9/9a Reykjavík–Þórsmörk, 18 Álfta-
vatn–Reykjavík, 20/20a Reykjavík–Skaftafell Fljótshlíð
and 21/21a Reykjavík–Skógar all stop in
Hvolsvöllur (Reykjavík–Hvolsvöllur kr4500). Rte 261 follows the mossy green edge of the
lush Fljótshlíð hills, offering great views of

141

their waterfalls, such as Gluggafoss, on one loose on the playground. It’s 12.5km east of
side, and the Markarfljót river delta and Ey- Hvolsvöllur.
jafjallajökull on the other.
Fagrahlíd Guesthouse B&B €€
The surfaced section of the road ends (%863 6669; www.fagrahlid.is; Fagrahlíd farm; d
soon after the farm and church at Hlíðaren- without bathroom incl breakfast kr22,500, studio
di, once the home of Gunnar Hámundar- incl breakfast kr32,430; p) This pretty clutch of
son from Njál’s Saga. With a 4WD you can butter-yellow buildings clusters on a slope
continue along road F261 towards Land- with sweeping views of the valley and the
mannalaugar and Tindfjöll – a hiker’s par- volcanoes in the distance. The friendly own-
adise. Though it seems tantalisingly close, er keeps everything tip-top, and comfortable
Þórsmörk can only be reached via Rte F249. rooms or the self-catering studio share a hot
tub. Find it 6.5km east of Hvolsvöllur on
T Tours Rte 261. So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le THohvueorlSsovuötlhl u r t o S k ó g a r

Midgard Adventure (p138) and Southcoast Hótel Eyjafjallajökull B&B, CAMPGROUND €€
Adventure (p141) run hiking and canyon- (%487 8360; www.hoteleyjafjallajokull.is; Hell-
ing tours in Tindfjöll and around the region. ishólar; s/d incl breakfast kr18,300/26,500; p)

Óbyggðaferðir QUAD-BIKE TOURS This long, narrow, wooden hotel is newly

(%661 2503; www.atvtravel.is; Lambalæk) Quad- built and accompanied by a high-quality
bike tours around Eyjafjallajökull, Þórsmörk
and beyond. A day trip per single/double campground with hot tubs and laundry.
Hotel rooms have en suite bathrooms and
rider costs kr69,500/55,000. flat-screen TVs. Kids can romp on the play-

4 Sleeping & Eating ground. Find it 11km east of Hvolsvöllur on
Rte 261.
Along the length of the valley there is a
series of good guesthouses and hotels, some Rte 249 to Þórsmörk
with camping.
You’ll see glistening Seljalandsfoss thun-
Some of the region’s hotels have din- dering off the lower escarpments of Ey-
ing options, or head into Hvolsvöllur for jafjallajökull volcano from miles away. It’s
restaurants. a popular stop on the Ring Road and a
pick-up point for Þórsmörk-bound buses
oFljótsdalur HI Hostel HOSTEL € (Þórsmörk is impossible to reach by regular
(%487 8498; www.hostel.is; dm kr4750; hApr- vehicles due to big rivers).
Oct) It’s very basic and not for everyone,
but if you’re looking for a peaceful, remote The road to Þórsmörk (Rte 249/F249)
base for highland walks, with a beautiful begins just east of the Markarfljót river and
garden, homey kitchen, cosy sitting room, alongside Seljalandsfoss, and leads north off
and mountain views that make your knees the Ring Road. It quickly turns into a spec-
tremble, then you’ll find it here. There are tacular 4WD-only road.
only seven bare mattresses in the attic and
two four-bed rooms on the main floor. Book 1 Sights
ahead. HI members get a kr750 discount.
Find it 27km east of Hvolsvöllur; the oSeljalandsfoss & Gljúfurárbui WATERFALL
road gets rough toward the end. Bring all
supplies. From the Ring Road you’ll see the beautiful
high falls at Seljalandsfoss, which tumble
oHótel Fljótshlíð HOTEL €€ over a rocky scarp into a deep, green pool.
(GuesthouseSmáratún; %4871416; www.smaratun. A (slippery) path runs around the back of
is; Smáratún; sites per adult/child kr1350/670, d the waterfall. A few hundred metres fur-
with/without bathroom kr24,800/12,400, chalets/ ther down the Þórsmörk road, Gljúfurárbui
cottages from kr16,400/24,600; p) This at- gushes into a hidden canyon.
tractive white farm with a blue-tin roof has
four- to six-person summerhouses, smart T Tours
hotel-style rooms, cheaper guesthouse
rooms (with shared facilities), sleeping-bag oSouthcoast Adventure ADVENTURE TOUR
places (kr4700; linen kr1660) and spots for
tents. Unwind in the hot tub, or let the kids (%867 3535; www.southadventure.is) South
Coast Adventure is a small tour operator run
by enthusiastic locals with loads of regional
knowledge and excellent reputations. Book
tailor-made super-Jeep tours (two-/five-hour

142

FLIGHTSEEING THE South of Eyjafjallajökull
VOLCANOES
The Ring Road (Rte 1) goes directly through
From Bakki Airport, on the coast 5km the flood zone south of Eyjafjallajökull (ay-
northwest of Landeyjahöfn, Atlants- ya-fiat-la-yo-gootl) volcano that was inun-
flug (%854 4105; www.flightseeing.is) of- dated with muddy ash during the infamous
fers overflights (kr26,900 to kr52,900) eruption in 2010. The gorgeous area skirts
of Eyjafjallajökull, glaciers and high- its lower cliffs and foothills, and is scored by
lands. Flights also run to Heimaey, Vest- waterfalls and dotted with farms.
mannaeyjar (Westman Islands; one-way
kr8500). 1 Sights & Activities

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le HST hlveeoelSpsoivnuögtlhl&uErattiongS k ó g a r tours from kr19,900/32,900) from Þórsmörk Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Centre EXHIBITION
to Landmannaulagar and longer hikes such (Þorvaldseyri Visitor Center – Iceland Erupts; %487
as Fimmvörðuháls or Laugavegurinn. Also 8815; www.icelanderupts.is; Þorvaldseyri; adult/
offers snowmobiling, volcano tours, glacier child kr800/free; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm
walks and winter trips. Info desk is at Ham- May & Sep, 11am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) This cen-
ragarðar (p142) on 2WD-friendly Rte 249, tre, about 7km west of Skógar on the Ring
next to Seljalandsfoss. Road, is on a farm on the southern flanks
of Eyjafjallajökull that was impacted by the
4 Sleeping & Eating 2010 eruption. A 20-minute film (usually in
English) tells the family’s story, from the om-
Head to Hvolsvöllur or Skógar for eating inous warnings to the devastating aftermath
options. of the flooding ash. Movie snippets include
tender family moments and highlights from
oHamragarðar CAMPGROUND € the team of local rescuers that dug the farm
out.

(%867 3535; sites per adult/child kr1300/free; Seljavallalaug GEOTHERMAL POOL
hMay-Sep) Camp right next to the hidden
waterfall at Gljúfurárbui at the start of Rte F Seljavallalaug, a peaceful 1923 pool,
is filled by a natural hot spring and has
249. There’s a small cafe (9am to 11pm June become very popular with tourists. From
to August) that sells cake and coffee, plus a
laundry (kr500), showers (kr300), a shared Edinborg (7km west of Skógar) follow Rte
242 and signs 2km to Seljavellir; park by the
kitchen and an info area for Southcoast farm, and walk up the beautiful river valley
Adventure (p141).
for about 10 minutes.

oStóra-Mörk III GUESTHOUSE, COTTAGES €€ T Tours
(%487 8903; www.storamork.com; d with/without
bathroom incl breakfast kr17,000/12,000) About Skálakot HORSE RIDING

5km along Rte 249 beyond the cluster of (%487 8953; www.skalakot.com) Horse farm
Skálakot (15km west of Skógar on Rte 246)
traffic at Seljalandsfoss falls, a dirt track offers an array of shorter rides (one hour
leads to historic Stóra-Mörk III farmhouse
(mentioned, of course, in Njál’s Saga), which kr6500), longer treks (day-long glacier and
beach ride kr29,500) and hiking tours. Also
offers large, homey rooms. The main house offers a range of accommodation (p142).
has some rooms with private bathrooms, a
large kitchen and a dining room with excel-
lent mountain-to-sea views. Sleeping-bag 4 Sleeping
accommodation with/without bathroom
costs kr4500/3800. There’s a loose string of guesthouses and
farmsteads along the Ring Road.

88 Getting There & Away Skálakot GUESTHOUSE, FARMSTAY €
(%487 8953; www.skalakot.com; dm kr5500,
Strætó, Sterna, Trex and Reykjavík Excursions d/f without bathroom kr13,000/19,500, farmstay
buses from Reykjavík to Skógar and beyond, or with full board kr18,500; p) The fresh-faced
to Þórsmörk, stop at Seljalandsfoss. Skálakot horse farm offers dorms, guest-

house rooms and sleeping bag accommoda-
tion (kr3800), plus full farmstay experiences.
It’s 15km west of Skógar on Rte 246.

Hótel Lambafell HOTEL €€ 143
(%487 1212; www.lambafell.is; Rte 242, Lambafell; through here, but you’ll need to arrange for them
to stop.

d/q incl breakfast from kr24,800/34,300) This
big, recently built log-cabin-style hotel offers
spacious rooms with private bathrooms. Skógar

Guesthouse Edinborg GUESTHOUSE €€ POP 20
(%487 1212; www.greatsouth.is; Rte 242, Lam-
bafell; d incl breakfast kr20,500; i) Formerly Skógar nestles under the Eyjafjallajökull ice
named Hótel Edinborg (and still signposted cap just off the Ring Road. This little tourist
that way on the main road), this tall, tin-clad settlement is the start (or occasionally end)
farmhouse has inviting wood-floored rooms of the hike over the Fimmvörðuháls Pass to
with comfy beds and private bathrooms, and Þórsmörk, and is one of the activities centres
an attic seating area with glacier views. It of the Southwest. At its western edge, you’ll So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ETS haktóeignSagoru th
feels out in the remote countryside despite see the dizzyingly high waterfall, Skógafoss,
being just off the Ring Road. It also operates and on the eastern side you’ll find a fantastic
folk museum.

the nearby Hótel Lambafell (p143). 1 Sights

Country Hotel Anna HOTEL €€ oSkógafoss WATERFALL
(%487 8950; www.hotelanna.is; Rte 246, Mold-
núpur; s/d incl breakfast kr19,900/28,900) S This 62m-high waterfall topples over a
rocky cliff at the western edge of Skógar
This inn’s namesake, Anna, wrote books in dramatic style. Climb the steep staircase
about her worldwide voyages – and her
descendants’ country hotel upholds her alongside for giddy views, or walk to the foot
of the falls, shrouded in sheets of mist and
passion for travel, with seven sweetly old- rainbows. Legend has it that a settler named
fashioned rooms furnished with antiques
and embroidered bedspreads. The hotel and Þrasi hid a chest of gold behind Skógafoss…

its little restaurant (open 6.30pm to 9pm; oSkógar Folk Museum MUSEUM

mains kr4200 to kr5200) sit at the foot of (Skógasafn; %487 8845; www.skogasafn.is; adult/
child kr2000/free; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-
Eyjafjallajökull volcano on Rte 246. 5pm Sep-May) The highlight of little Skógar is

5 Eating the wonderful Skógar Folk Museum, which
covers all aspects of Icelandic life. The vast
collection was put together by 95-year-old
Heimamenn Cafe & Minimart CAFE €
(Rte 1, Skarðshlíð 2; snacks kr390-1790; h11am- Þórður Tómasson over more than 75 years.
7pm Jun-Aug) This small cafe with burgers, There are also restored buildings – a church,
hot dogs and soup, and a teeny mini-mart a turf-roofed farmhouse, cowsheds – and
selection opened in 2016, and it may remain a huge, modern building that houses an
open in winters. It’s 2km west of Skógar. interesting transport and communication
museum, the basic cafe Skógakaffi (www.
oGamla Fjósið ICELANDIC €€ skogasafn.is; soup kr1600; h10am-5pm) and a
(Old Cowhouse; %487 7788; www.gamlafjosid.is;
Hvassafell; mains kr1900-6500; h11am-9pm Jun- shop.

Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Built in a former
cowshed that was in use until 1999, this BOOK AHEAD
charming eatery’s focus is on farm-fresh and
grass-fed meaty mains, from burgers to Vol- Moving west from Hella all the way to
cano Soup, a spicy meat stew. The hardwood Vík, many local farms have pretty, rural
floor and low beams are cheered with pol- guesthouses. It’s a beautiful, but incred-
ished dining tables, large wooden hutches ibly popular place to stay, so they get
and friendly staff. booked solid in summer. Reservations
It also operates the basic South Iceland are essential.
Guesthouse (d without bathroom, incl
breakfast, kr17,000) across the street. The excellent, free regional maps
available at tourist offices show all lodg-
88 Getting There & Away ing. Look on Icelandic Farm Holidays
(www.farmholidays.is) and booking.com
Strætó, Sterna and Reykjavík Excursions buses for more choices; we review but a top
from Reykjavík to Skógar and beyond, pass sample.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ST hikgóehgStaosru th144

FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS TREK

Fimmvörðuháls (www.fimmvorduhals.is) – named for a pass between two brooding gla-
ciers – dazzles the eye with a parade of wild inland vistas. Linking Skógar and Þórsmörk,
the awesome hike is 23.4km long, and can be divided into three distinct sections of
somewhat equal length. Figure around 10 hours to complete the trek, which includes
stops to rest, and to check out the steaming remnants of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption. It’s
best to tackle the hike from late June to early September, but get local advice on con-
ditions, and check www.safetravel.is and log your trip. Pack wisely; you can experience
all four season over the course of this hike. If in doubt, go with a guide, as there are two
treacherous passes, and tours here are great.

Part 1: Waterfall Way From Skógafoss to the ‘bridge’. Starting on the right side of
splashy Skógafoss, the path zooms up and over the falls quickly, revealing a series of wa-
terfalls just behind. Stay close to the tumbling water as you climb over small stones and
twisting trees – there are 22 chutes in all, each one magnificent. The path flattens out as
the trees turn to windswept shrubs, then set your sights on the ‘bridge’, which is a crude
walkway over the gushing river below. It’s imperative that you make the crossing on the
walkway otherwise you won’t make it over and down into Þórsmörk later on.

Part 2: The Ashtray From the ‘bridge’ to the eruption site. After crossing the crude
bridge onto the left side of the moving water you start to enter the gloomy heart of the
pass between two glaciers: Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. The weather can be quite
variable here – it could be raining in the pass when there is sunshine in Skógar. Expect
to bundle up at this point as you move through icy rifts in the earlier parts of summer;
from August on the region feels like some kind of giant ashtray. If you want to break up
the hike over two days, book ahead for either the 12-person Baldvinsskáli (p153)
hut, or the 20-person Fimmvörðuháls (p153) hut. The latter is positioned 600m
away from the main trail about halfway through the walk (it can be difficult to find in bad
weather). There’s no campsite. Continuing on, the initial eruption site from the Eyjafjal-
lajökull eruption reveals itself; here you’ll find steaming earth and the world’s newest
mountains – Magni and Móði. Climb up to the top of Magni and roast some sausages
over one of the sizzling vents.

Part 3: Goðaland From the eruption site down into Þórsmörk. After climbing down from
Magni, the last part of the hike begins. The barren ashiness continues for a while, then
an other-worldly kingdom reveals itself – a place ripped straight from the pages of a fairy
tale. Here in Goðaland – the aptly named ‘Land of the Gods’ – wild Arctic flowers bloom
as stone cathedrals emerge in the distance. Vistas of green continue as you descend into
Þórsmörk to complete the journey.

GPS markers Although the hike is relatively short compared to some of Iceland’s fa-
mous multiday treks, it’s important to bring a GPS along – especially for the second
portion of the hike when the way isn’t always obvious. The following nine GPS markers
can keep DIYers on track:

1 N 63°31.765, W 19°30.756 (start)

2 N 63°32.693, W 19°30.015

3 N 63°33.741, W 19°29.223

4 N 63°34.623, W 19°26.794 (the ‘bridge’)

5 N 63°36.105, W 19°26.095

6 N 63°38.208, W 19°26.616 (beginning of eruption site)

7 N 63°39.118, W 19°25.747

8 N 63°40.561, W 19°27.631

9 N 63°40.721, W 19°28.323 (terminus at Básar)

T Tours 145

Several major operators have their base in Hótel Skógafoss HOTEL €€
or around Skógar and offer tours to natu- (%487 8780; www.hotelskogafoss.is; d incl break-
ral wonders, from glaciers to volcanoes and fast with/without waterfall view kr27,000/25,000)
beyond. Excellent operators near Skógar in- This hotel opened in 2014 and offers simple,
clude Southcoast Adventure (p141), which modern rooms (half of which have views of
offers guided hikes of Fimmvörðuháls, Skógafoss) with good bathrooms. The bistro-
among many other adventure tours, and bar (p145) is one of the best eating and
Midgard Adventure (p138) in Hvolsvöllur, drinking spots in town, with plate-glass win-
again tops for treks, super-Jeeps, ice climb- dows looking onto the falls and local beer
ing etc. Both can pick up from Skógar. Arctic on tap.
Adventures (www.adventures.is) has a small
booking table at Fossbúð (p145). Hótel Edda Skógar HOTEL €€
(%444 4000; www.hoteledda.is; d without bath-
room kr18,000; hearly Jun-late Aug; p) Perfect- So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ST ohk óue grSsaoru th
ly serviceable but rather bland and worn,
Icelandic Mountain Guides ADVENTURE TOUR this summer inn in the local school close to
(%587 9999, Skógar desk 894 2956; www.moun the museum is split over two buildings. All
tainguides.is; h9am-6pm) One of the largest rooms have shared bathrooms.
and best operators in Iceland, Icelandic
Mountain Guides has a downtown Reykjavík Hótel Skógar HOTEL €€€
office and this Skógar branch, located at Hó- (%487 4880; www.hotelskogar.is; s/d/tr incl break-
tel Skógafoss (p145). Locally, it runs gla- fast kr38,300/41,100/51,400) This architectur-
cier walks and ice climbs on Sólheimajökull ally interesting hotel has small, eclectic
(kr8900 to lkr25,900), guided Fimmvörðu- rooms with quirky antiques, some with hill
háls hikes (kr26,900) and many tours fur- views. One upstairs room has a king-size bed
ther afield. Offers Reykjavík pick-up. and waterfall views, a downstairs room is

4 Sleeping uninhabitable due to noise – check carefully.
A hot tub and sauna plus an elegant restau-
Although Skógar is set up for tourists, with rant (open noon to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm;
various places to stay, it’s essential to book mains kr3000 to kr4900) round it out.
well ahead in high season. The hotel also has a nearby house for
rent.
oSkógar Campsite CAMPGROUND €
(sites per adult/child kr1200/800; hMay-Sep) 5 Eating
Basic grassy lot with a great location, right
by Skógafoss; the sound of falling water Hótel Skógafoss Bistro-Bar ICELANDIC €€
makes a soothing lullaby. There’s a no-frills (%487 8780; www.hotelskogafoss.is; Skógar;
toilet block (shower kr300); pay at the hostel mains kr1600-2500; h8am-11pm Jun-Sep, to 10pm
nearby. Oct-May) The bistro-bar at Hótel Skógafoss is
one of the best eating and drinking spots in
Skógar HI Hostel HOSTEL € town, with plate-glass windows looking onto
(%487 8780; www.hostel.is; dm/d kr4750/12,900) the falls and local beer on tap.

A solid link in the HI chain, this spot is lo- Fossbúð FAST FOOD €€
cated a stone’s throw from Skógafoss in an
old school with utilitarian rooms. There’s a (%487 4880; mains kr1200-3000; h9am-9pm
Jun-Aug) Advertised as a restaurant, Fossbúð
guest kitchen and a laundry. is really a convenience store and place for

oSkógar Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ quick snacks: soup, hamburgers, sandwich-
es, bagged chips and chocolate bars. Arctic
(%894 5464; www.skogarguesthouse.is; d/tr with- Adventures has a small tour desk here.
out bathroom incl breakfast kr21,000/30,000) This
charming white farmhouse is tucked back
inside the trees, beyond the Hótel Edda, al- 88 Getting There & Away
most to the cliff face. A friendly family offers
quaint, impeccably maintained rooms with Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
crisp linens and cosy quilts, a large immac- ¨¨Bus 51 Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík–
ulate kitchen and bathrooms, and a hot tub Skógar kr5040, 2½ hours, two daily).
on a wood deck beneath the maples. It feels Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
well out of the tourist fray despite being in ¨¨Bus 12/12a Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík–
central Skógar. Skógar kr4800, three hours, one daily June to
mid-September).

146 The start of the Laugavegurinn hike
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: (p148) is behind the Landmannalaugar
¨¨Bus 20/20a Reykjavík–Skaftafell (Reykjavík– hut, marked in red.
Skógar kr6000, four hours, one daily June to
early September). oLjótipollur HIKING
¨¨Bus 21/21a Reykjavík–Skógar (kr6000, 3¼
hours, two daily June to August). Day-hike to the ill-named Ljótipollur (Ugly
Puddle), an incredible magenta crater filled
Landmannalaugar with bright-blue water. The intense, fiery
red comes from iron-ore deposits. Oddly
Mind-blowing multicoloured mountains, enough, although it was formed by a volcan-
soothing hot springs, rambling lava flows ic explosion, the lake is rich in brown trout.
and clear blue lakes make Landmannalaugar The walk to the Puddle offers plenty of eye
one of Iceland’s most unique destinations, candy, from tephra desert and lava flow to
and a must for explorers of the interior. It’s aSo u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le LAT cahtne idSvmoi tauinetnsh a l a u g a r marsh and braided glacial valleys.
favourite with Icelanders and visitors alike… To get there from Landmannalaugar
as long as the weather cooperates. you can climb over the 786m-high peak
Norðurnámur or just traverse its western
Part of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, base to emerge on the Ljótipollur road (a
Landmannalaugar (600m above sea level) 10km to 13.3km return trip, depending on
includes the largest geothermal field in Ice- the route).
land outside the Grímsvötn caldera in Vat-
najökull. Its multihued peaks are made of Brennisteinsalda HIKING
rhyolite – a mineral-filled lava that cooled
unusually slowly, causing those amazing When the weather is clear, opt for a walk
colours. that takes in the region’s spectacular views.
From Landmannalaugar climb to the sum-
The area is the official starting point for mit of rainbow‑streaked Brennisteinsalda –
the famous Laugavegurinn hike, and there’s covered in steaming vents and sulphur de-
some excellent day hiking as well. The day- posits – for a good view across the rugged
use fee for the facilities at Landmannalaugar and variegated landscape (it’s a 6.5km round
is kr500. trip from Landmannalaugar). From Bren-
nisteinsalda it’s another 90 minutes along
2 Activities the Þórsmörk route to the impressive Stóri-
hver geothermal field.
There’s plenty to do in and around Land-
mannalaugar, though many hikers skip the Frostastaðavatn HIKING
area’s wonders and set off right away for
their Laugavegurinn hike. If you plan to This blue lake lies behind the rhyolite ridge
stick around you’ll be happy to know that immediately north of the Landmannal-
the crowds dwindle in the evenings and, augar hut. Walk over the ridge and you’ll
despite the base’s chaotic appearance, you’ll be rewarded with far-ranging views as well
find peace in the hills above. as close-ups of the interesting rock forma-
Hot Springs tions and moss-covered lava flows flanking
Follow the wooden boardwalk just 200m the lake. If you walk at least one way on the
from the Landmannalaugar hut, to find road and spend some time exploring around
a steaming river filled with bathers. Both the lake, the return trip takes two to three
hot and cold water flow out from beneath hours.
Laugahraun and combine in a natural pool
to form an ideal hot bath. Landmannalaugar Fishing
could be translated as the People’s Pools… Buy fishing licences (kr3500) for local lakes
and here they are. from the Mountain Mall at Landmannal-
Hiking augar or at Landmannahellir (p147).
If you’re day hiking in the Landmannal-
augar area, stop by the information hut to T Tours
purchase the useful day-trip map (kr300),
which details all of the best hikes in the re- Landmannalaugar has on-site horse-riding
gion. Guided hikes (through operators from tours (%868 5577; www.hnakkur.is; 1/2hr tour
Hvolsvöllur to Skógar areas) can also be a kr9000/12,500) from July to mid-August.
great way to explore the area. The horse farms in the plains around Hella
also offer riding (usually longer trips) in and
around the Landmannalaugar area.

4 Sleeping 7 Shopping 147

Landmannalaugar has a large base with Mountain Mall FOOD & DRINKS, CLOTHING
camping and hut facilities. The camp opens
for the season depending on when the roads (www.landmannalaugar.info) The Mountain Mall
are clear, usually sometime in June. It closes on the Landmannalaugar grounds is set up
for sure by mid-October, but it can be earlier inside two buses, selling basic supplies from
if there’s loads of snow or the water has to hats, long johns, hot tea and maps to beer
be turned off. (kr1000), soup (kr1000) and fresh fish from
the nearby lakes. It also sell fishing licences.

Landmannalaugar Hut & 88 Information

Camping Complex HUTS, CAMPGROUND € The Landmannalaugar hut wardens can answer
(%booking 568 2533, huts Jul-Sep 860 3335; www. questions and provide directions and advice on
fi.is; sites/huts per person kr1800/7500) In the hiking routes. They also sell a map of day hikes
middle of summer this campground can (kr300) and the Laugavegurinn hike (kr1700), as So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TSL ahl eneedSpmoi naugntnh a l a u g a r
look surprisingly raggle-taggle, with hun- well as a booklet in English and Icelandic on the
dreds of tents, several structures inundated hike (kr3000). Note that wardens do not know
with hikers, and laundry dangling through- if it will rain (yes, this is the most frequently
out. The hut accommodates 78 people in asked question here). At the time of writing there
close quarters; it is essential to book ahead. was no wi-fi, but there was some mobile-phone
There’s a kitchen area and showers (kr500 reception.
for five minutes of hot water). Day use costs
kr500. 88 Getting There & Away
Campers pitch a tent in the designated ar-
eas and have access to the toilet and shower BUS
facilities as well. Wild camping is strictly Landmannalaugar can be reached by rugged,
prohibited, as the entire area is in the pro- semi-amphibious buses from three different
tected Fjallabak Nature Reserve. There directions. They run when the roads are open to
are several wardens on-site. At the time of Landmannalaugar (check www.road.is).
writing there was no limit on the number From Reykjavík Buses travel along the western
of campers at Landmannalaugar, and you part of the Fjallabak Rte, which first follows Rte
cannot reserve. 26 east of the Þjorsá to F225.
The base – simply known as Landman- From Skaftafell Buses follow the Fjallabak Rte
nalaugar – is operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (F208).
(Icelandic Touring Association), like the huts From Mývatn Buses cut across the highlands
on the Laugavegurinn hike, and its website via Nýidalur on the Sprengisandur Rte (F26).
is loaded with information.
It’s possible to travel from Reykjavík and be in
Landmannahellir CAMPGROUND € Landmannalaugar for two to 10 hours before re-
(%893 8407; www.landmannahellir.is; sites per turning to Reykjavík, or three to five hours before
adult/tent kr1300/110; hmid-Jun–early Sep) going on to Skaftafell. That’s about enough time
This remote campsite has basic facilities to take a dip in the springs and/or a short walk.
(shower and toilets), and there is hut lodg- Schedules change, but morning buses usually
ing (sleeping bag accommodation kr5600), reach Landmannalaugar by midday. Alterna-
and a few summer houses for rent. It also tively, stay overnight and catch a bus out when
sells fishing licences. Trex (www.trex.is) bus you’re done exploring.
T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar can stop Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
at Landmannahellir (kr8400, 3¾ hours, two ¨¨Bus 10/10a Skaftafell–Landmannalaugar
daily mid-June to early September) if ar- (kr9000, five hours, one daily late June to early
ranged in advance. September).
¨¨Bus 11/11a Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar
5 Eating (kr8000, 4¼ hours, three to four daily mid-June
to mid-September).
There are no restaurants at Landmanna- ¨¨Bus 14/14a Mývatn–Landmannalaugar
laugar; bring all of your own food. The (kr16,500, 10 hours, one daily late June to early
Mountain Mall shop sells some basic food September).
supplies at a premium, and the huts have Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
cooking facilities for guests. ¨¨Bus 13/13a Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar
(kr8000, four hours, one daily late June to
early September).

148 So u th we s t I ce l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rcle STL hAl eUeeGSpAoiVnuEgtGh&U REIaNtNi nHgI K E straight through the island’s interior, with
Trex (www.trex.is) services: much of the earth steaming and bubbling
¨¨Bus T21 Reykjavík–Landmannalaugar from the intense activity below its surface.
(kr7900, 4¼ hours, two daily mid-June to early Expect wildly coloured mountainsides,
September). glacial rivers and the glaciers themselves,
and then you’ll finally emerge at a verdant
CAR nature reserve in Þórsmörk. It is the most
Roads to Landmannalaugar are open in summer popular hike in Iceland and infrastructure is
only (approximately late June to September) de- sound, with well positioned huts along the
pending on weather and road conditions (check zigzag 55km route. But it is essential that
www.safetravel.is and www.road.is). There are you book months in advance if you intend to
three routes to Landmannalaugar from the Ring use them. Campers do not need to reserve.
Road, all requiring a minimum of a 4WD. Driving
from Mývatn to Landmannalaugar takes all day Check www.safetravel.is before setting
along the Sprengisandur Rte route (4WD only). If out (and log your plan with them), and be
you have a small 4WD, you will have to leave your sure to register at the information hut in
vehicle about 1km before Landmannalaugar, as Landmannalaugar. It is imperative not to
the river crossing here is too perilous for little attempt the hike out of season (opening
cars, and cross by footbridge. Two-wheel-drive dates vary according to weather, but tend
rentals are not allowed to drive on F roads to to be early July to early September), as the
Landmannalaugar. conditions can be lethal and there will be no
services on the route. Even in summer there
There’s no petrol at Landmannalaugar. will be snow and fog along the way, and riv-
The nearest petrol pumps are 40km north at ers to cross; prepare accordingly.
Hrauneyjar (p136), close to the beginning of
the F208 and also in the Fjallabak Reserve; and 4 Sleeping & Eating
90km southeast at Kirkjubæjarklaustur, but to
be on the safe side you should fill up along the As the Laugavegurinn trail is very well trav-
Ring Road if approaching from the west or the elled, you’ll find a constellation of carefully
north. positioned huts along the way, all owned
F208 Northwest You can follow the west side and maintained by Ferðafélag Íslands (www.
of the Þjorsá (Rte 32), passing Árnes, then take fi.is). These huts sleep dozens of people, but
Rte F208 down into Landmannalaugar from must be booked (and prepaid) months in
the north. This is the easiest path to follow for advance – you can get on a waiting list the
small 4WDs. After passing the power plant, the year before, and bookings officially open in
road from Hrauneyjar becomes horribly bumpy October or November prior to the summer.
and swerves between power lines all the way to We cannot stress enough that these beds go
Ljótipollur (‘Ugly Puddle’). quickly. Also note that bunk beds at most
F225 On the east side of the Þjorsá, follow Rte huts sleep four people each – two (side by
26 inland through the low plains behind Hella, side) on each level. If you are alone, expect
loop around Hekla, then take Rte F225 west to be paired with a stranger.
until you reach the base. This route is harder to
tackle (rougher roads). Huts usually have a solar panel for war-
F208 Southeast The hardest route comes dens to charge their communications equip-
from the Ring Road between Vík and Kirkjubæ- ment and perhaps lights for the hut, but
jarklaustur. This is the Skaftafell–Landmannal- there is no electricity for hikers. There is a
augar bus route. strict quiet rule from midnight to 7am.

You can also take a super-Jeep tour with local There is camping in designated areas
tour operators, which will take you out to Land- around the huts, though with the increasing
mannalaugar from Reykjavík, or from anywhere popularity of the hike, these can become full
in the south. as well (no numbers cap was in place at the
time of writing). Note that campers do not
Laugavegurinn Hike: have access to hut kitchens or facilities and
Landmannalaugar to must bring all their own camping and cook-
Þórsmörk ing equipment. Campers can use bathrooms
and running water. Camping areas are often
The hike from Landmannalaugar to exposed to the elements – streamline your
Þórsmörk – commonly known as Laugave- tent with the wind, then pin it down with
gurinn – is where backpackers earn their extra boulders. All camping costs kr1800 per
stripes in Iceland. It means ‘Hot Spring person, and does not need to be reserved.
Road’, and it’s easy to understand why. The Wardens accept cash and credit cards.
harsh, other-worldly beauty of the land-
scape morphs in myriad ways as you traipse