Lonely Planet Iceland

149

Huts are usually open late June to early 88 Information
September, but this is weather dependent;
check ahead. Huts are locked in winter. Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Associa-
Wild camping is strictly forbidden along the tion; % 568 2533; www.fi.is) runs the facilities
whole trail, as these are protected nature in the area and its website is loaded with infor-
reserves. mation, including details on the hike. It pub-
lishes (and sells at Landmannalaugar) a small
There is no food for sale along the trail; booklet (kr3000) about the hike in English and
bring everything. Icelandic offering detailed information about
the landscape, sights and path, and also sells a
Hrafntinnusker HUT, CAMPGROUND € map (kr1700).
(Höskuldsskáli; %568 2533; www.fi.is; N 63°56.014’,
W 19°10.109’; sites/huts per person kr1800/7500) Most adventure operators throughout south
This hut holds 52 people (around 22 of Iceland offer Laugavegurinn guiding. In addition
whom sleep on mattresses on the floor in a to the traditional hike, some do longer variations So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TILnAhfUeoGSrAomVuaEttGhiUoRnI N N H I K E
converted attic space). It is at an elevation of off the beaten track (literally), to hiker-free
1027m – be prepared for particularly inhos- mountains that run parallel to the main trail.
pitable conditions if you are camping – and
it’s the barest-bones of the huts. There’s an Most hikers walk from north to south to take
outhouse and geothermal heating, but no advantage of the net altitude loss and the facili-
refuse facilities and no showers – you must ties at Þórsmörk. From Þórsmörk you can catch
carry your rubbish to Hvangil. a bus or continue hiking to Skógar on the Fim-
Some campers cook their food on the mvörðuháls trek (p144), which takes an extra
natural steam vents nearby; ask the warden day or two (about an additional 20km).
(July and August only) to tell you where.
When there is no warden, water must be WEATHER & GEAR
sourced from a stream or snow. We highly recommend taking a map and GPS if
you plan on tackling the walk without a guide.
Álftavatn HUT, CAMPGROUND €
(%568 2533; www.fi.is; N 63°51.470’, W 19°13.640’; The track is almost always passable for hiking
sites/huts per person kr1800/7500) Two huts from early July through to mid-September. Early
here hold 72 people in total; both have in the season (late June to early July) there can
drinking water and mattresses. Kitchen fa- be icy patches or deep snow that are difficult to
cilities have gas stoves. Showers cost kr500. navigate – projected hut openings offer a good
Opening coincides with the opening of local gauge of conditions. In summer some of the
F roads (anywhere from early to late June, rivers can be too deep to cross. Huts are locked
depending on weather), and it closes in out of season, so hiking the trail out of season is
mid-September. decidedly discouraged (and dangerous).

Hvanngil HUT, CAMPGROUND € At any time of the year the Landmannalaugar
(%568 2533; www.fi.is; sites/huts per person to Þórsmörk hike is not to be undertaken lightly.
kr1800/7500) This hut is on an alternative It is imperative that you pack appropriate warm
path on the Laugavegurinn hike, 5km south and waterproof clothing and gear, as weather
of Álftavatn. It holds 60 people, and has a conditions change dramatically in an instant.
kitchen and shower (kr500). It’s a good You will be fording rivers, and fog and rain can
choice for people tackling Laugavegurinn in come up at any time. That means no jeans or
two days. It’s usually quieter than Álftavatn. cotton clothes next to your skin at all. If you
are not a seasoned hiker and don’t know what
Emstrur HUT, CAMPGROUND € to bring, do your research first. Wardens have
(Botnar; %568 2533; www.fi.is; N 63°45.980’, W reported a huge upswing in unprepared hikers
19°22.450’; sites/huts per person kr1800/7500) needing intervention. Don’t be one of them.
Emstrur has 60 beds divided into three huts.
There are two showers (kr500 for five min- You must carry sufficient food and water.
utes of hot water), toilets and a gas stove.
There are no garbage facilities or power out- LUGGAGE TRANSPORT
lets. Although it’s located under the glacier, You don’t have to schlep all your bags along the
the other huts have a more striking position Laugavegurinn hike. Going with a tour company,
along the trail. Note that mobile-phone re- staff will usually transport your extra bags from
ception is particularly spotty here. the start to the end of the trail, and even, some-
times, between huts.

ALTERNATIVE ACCESS POINTS
Improbable though it may seem, Reykjavík Ex-
cursions (www.re.is) bus 18 goes from Reykjavík
to Álftavatn, Hvanngil and Emstrur daily from
late June through August (Reykjavík–Álftavatn
kr9000, four hours) with short stops to get out
and walk around.

150

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151So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le L AU G AV E G U R I N N H I K E

HIKING LAUGAVEGURINN

Laugavegurinn in Four Days
Ferðafélag Íslands (www.fi.is) breaks Laugavegurinn into four sections (see the website
for a detailed description), and many hikers opt to tackle one section each day for four
days, as carefully positioned sleeping huts (and adjoining campsites) punctuate the start
and end point of each leg.

Part 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (12km; four to five hours) A relatively
easy start to your adventure, the walk to the first hut passes the boiling earth at Stór-
ihver and sweeping fields of glittering obsidian. If you want to extend the walk, start at
Landmannalaugar and hike to Hrafntinnusker via Skalli; the information hut in Landman-
nalaugar has a handout that details this quieter route. You’ll need to fill up on fresh water
before you depart as there’s no source until you reach the first hut. About 2km before
Hrafntinnusker there’s a memorial to a solo Israeli hiker who died on the trail in 2005
after ignoring a warden’s warning – a reminder to properly prepare for your hike and
always keep your ear to the ground.

Part 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (12km; four to five hours) At Hrafntinnusker you
can try a couple of short local hikes without your pack before setting off. There are views
at Södull (20 minutes return) and Reykjafjöll (one hour return), and a hidden geothermal
area behind the ice caves (three hours return); ask the warden for walking tips. Views
aplenty are found on the walk to Álftavatn as well – hike across the northern spur of the
Kaldaklofsfjöll ice cap for vistas from the summit. Walking into Álftavatn you’ll see loom-
ing Tindfjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull and the infamous Eyjafjallajökull before reaching the
serenely beautiful lake where you’ll spend the night.

Part 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur-Botnar (15km; six to seven hours) To reach Emstrur you’ll
need to ford at least one large stream – you can take your shoes off and get wet or wait
at the edge of the river for a 4WD to give you a lift over. Not to be missed is the detour
to spectacular Markarfljótsgljúfur – a gigantic multihued canyon. It’s well marked from
Emstrur, and takes about an hour to reach (you come back the same way).

Part 4: Emstrur-Botnar to Þórsmörk (15km; six to seven hours) Barrenness turns to
brilliantly verdant lands dotted with lush Arctic flowers. If you’re not planning on staying
in Þórsmörk, you need to arrive before the last bus leaves.

Laugavegurinn in Three Days
If you’re fit, it’s within your reach to complete the hike in three days instead of four. Cover
Part 1 and Part 2 in one day, arriving at Álftavatn after a full eight to 10 hours of hiking.
Hike to Emstrur on your second day, and arrive in Þórsmörk on the evening of your third.

Laugavegurinn in Two Days
If you’re a fleet, avid hiker, you can complete all 55km of the hike in two long days. On
your first day hike all the way to Álftavatn, or better yet, continue the additional 5km to
reach Hvanngil. It’s possible to combine Part 3 and Part 4 on your second day, as these
30km are relatively flat. There’s an overall 100m decline.

Laugavegurinn in Five Hours
Wanna get nuts? Join the endurance race Laugavegur Ultra Marathon (Laugavegsh-
laupið; www.marathon.is; hJul), when Iceland’s toughest runners complete the entire hike
in under five hours. The latest record: Þorbergur Ingi Jónsson at 3:59:13.

Laugavegurinn Extended
If weather conditions are favourable, there’s no reason to rush. You can use the huts as
hiking bases, and explore paths that veer away from the main Laugavegurinn trail. You
can also spend time based in Landmannalaugar before setting off, though we prefer
Þórsmörk.

152

Þórsmörk It’s possible to volunteer to help with trail
maintenance with Þórsmörk Trail Volun-
A nature reserve, Þórsmörk is a verdant teers (www.trailteam.is), an Iceland Forest
realm of forest and flower-filled lees that Service initiative.
looks onto curling gorges, icy rivers and
three looming glaciers (Tindfjallajökull, oStakkholtsgjá Canyon HIKING
Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull). The gla-
ciers protect this quiet spot from some of the Stakkholtsgjá is a wonderful alternate-
region’s harsher weather; it is often warm- ly rocky and mossy gorge with a hidden
er or drier in Þórsmörk than nearby. Be waterfall. Walk along the river bed, hop
warned, though: Þórsmörk’s lovely setting across the river, and when it splits in two
and proximity to Reykjavík (130km) make it veer left down a narrower canyon. Scamp-
a popular spot in summer. er over boulders and you’ll spot a crashing
cascade (or dramatic icicles in winter). The
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le ÞAT chóterisSvmoi töuiretksh The higher, northeastern reaches of the walk takes around 90 minutes. Reykjavík
area are known as Goðaland (Land of the Excursions buses stop here.
Gods), which is – as the name suggests –
divine. Rock formations twist skyward like oValahnúkur Circle HIKING
the stone arches of an ancient cathedral.
Fluorescent Arctic flowers burst forth from A 2½-hour loop takes you up to the brilliant
spongy moss bringing brilliant slashes of viewpoint at Valahnúkur, which takes in
colour. At its higher altitudes, Goðaland of- canyons, glaciers and sightlines all the way
ten has rougher weather than Þórsmörk. to the ocean. From Húsadalur, follow the
trail up to the viewpoint then down into
Þórsmörk may seem relatively close to Langidalur. From there pass along the ridge
the Ring Road on a map, but you’ll need between the valleys back to your starting
to take a bus or go by high-clearance 4WD point. Or, do it in reverse.
(super-Jeep tour) to ford the rivers on the You can hike one way and connect with
way to the reserve (or hike in from Skógar buses on either side as well.
or Landmannalaugar). As you get close,
coming from the south, you must cross the Tindfjöll Circle HIKING
dangerous Krossá river. Regular 4WDs can-
not make it. You’ll see that they are parked The longest of the most popular ‘short
where people have hitched rides with buses hikes’ in the area takes around 4½ hours
or super-Jeeps. from Langidalur and around six hours from
Húsadalur. It will take you along the Tind-
Goðaland is the endpoint for the glori- fjöll gorge and ridge. Húsadalur – Volcano
ous Fimmvörðuháls trek (p144), which Huts Þórsmörk (p153) sells maps.
starts in Skógar. The main camping area in Wander through the Slyppugil Valley
Goðaland is Básar (p153); to go between (or follow the like-named ridge), then hike
it and Þórsmörk by car you must make the across moraine along the side of a second
dangerous Krossá river crossing mentioned ridge. You’ll then pass through Tröllakirk-
above. Walkers use footbridges. ja (Trolls’ Church) with its sweeping stone
arches. A lush green field appears next be-
Húsadalur – Volcano Huts Þórsmörk fore revealing a postcard-worthy viewpoint
(p153) is open year-round, but buses tend to the Þórsmörk valley. Follow the top of the
to run May to mid-October. The rest of sandstone ridge until you find yourself at the
the year you’ll need to come on a private coursing Krossá river, which leads you back
super-Jeep tour to reach Þórsmörk. to Langidalur, or further on to Húsadalur.

2 Activities T Tours

Although Þórsmörk is the terminus for the Coming by guided super-Jeep tour can be a
uber-popular Laugavegurinn hike (p148), lovely treat, revealing more than what you’ll
many tired trekkers catch a bus out of the find on your own.
reserve immediately, missing spectacular
day hiking (sans backpack). Some continue Guides throughout the south, such as
along the Fimmvörðuháls trek (p144) into Southcoast Adventure (p141), Midgard
Skógar, a truly incredible walk, but better Adventure (p138) and Icelandic Mountain
approached in the opposite direction (de- Guides (p145) are a great value-add as not
parting from Skógar). only do they get you to the region, but they
can take you to hidden valleys, waterfalls
and glacier approaches that the buses do

153

not reach, while sharing local geological and can help with information on day hikes. Dis-
cultural insights. For example, Gígjökull counts available when buying a bus ticket
glacial tongue, with its formerly enormous from Reykjavík Campsite (p78).
moraine, was one of the main sites of flood-
ing when Eyjafjallajökull erupted; you can Baldvinsskáli HUT €
get close enough to lick it. (%568 2533; www.fi.is; N 63°36.622’, W 19°26.477’;
dm kr6000; hmid-Jun–mid-Sep) This tiny
4 Sleeping 12-person A-frame hut run by Ferðafélags
Íslands is about halfway along the Fim-
There are three lodging areas in Þórsmörk: mvörðuháls trek and has a small kitchen
Langidalur, with huts as well at nearby Sly- and outhouse, but no running water. Book
ppugil; Básar (technically in Goðaland); and well ahead.
Húsadalur. All have huts and campsites,
cooking facilities and running water. They Fimmvörðuháls HUT € So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le STÞhlóeeresSpmoi önurgtkh
get rammed during summer months, so it’s (%893 4910, booking 562 1000; www.utivist.is;
crucial to book space in the huts in advance. N 63°37.320’, W 19°27.093’; per person kr6000;
We recommend bringing a sleeping bag and hmid-Jun–Aug) The 20-bed hut at Fim-
your own food. Note that wild camping is mvörðuskáli at 1000m altitude on the pass
forbidden in the area. between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull
lies 600m west of the main trail and is easy
Langidalur HUT, CAMPGROUND € to miss in poor weather. Útivist tour groups
(Þórsmörk, Skagfjörðsskáli; %893 1191, booking
568 2533; www.fi.is; N 63°40.960’, W 19°30.890’; have priority here, so it’s often booked out.
There’s no campsite or running water.
sites/huts per person kr1800/7500; hMay-Sep)
Langidalur – also referred to simply as
Þórsmörk, or Skagfjörðsskáli – is the most Húsadalur – Volcano Huts

rustic option of the four in Þórsmörk, but Þórsmörk HUT, CAMPGROUND €€
(%552 8300; www.volcanohuts.com; Húsadalur;
is well-maintained. It sleeps 75 and has two sites per person kr2000, dm/s/d & cottages without
kitchens. Campers do not have access to the bathroom kr7500/16,000/25,000) Busy Volca-
hut or its facilities (kitchens), so must bring no Huts Þórsmörk fills the Húsadalur area
their own stoves etc. The well-tended camp- with basic dorm-style huts, private rooms,
ing space has access to a dining hut and five-person cottages (sleeping-bag accom-
large shower block. modation with kitchenettes) and a camp-
A small shop offers hot coffee and tea, ground, all with shared bathrooms and
plus basic provisions: camping gas, wool sauna. There’s a cooking area, but you must
socks, soup, jam, light beer etc and is open bring your own stove and utensils. Linen
variable hours from May to September. Op- costs kr3000.
erated by Ferðafélag Íslands, which manages The good restaurant (breakfast/lunch/
the Laugavegurinn huts. dinner costs kr2200/2700/4500) offers a
lunch of soup, fresh bread, coffee and cake,
Básar HUT, CAMPGROUND € and a buffet dinner, and has wi-fi. It also
(%893 2910, booking 562 1000; www.utivist.is;
Goðaland, N 63°40,559’,W 19°29,014’; sites/huts per sells trail maps and box lunches (kr2500).

person kr1500/5500) Básar is the choice base 5 Eating
for Icelanders, largely due to its beautiful
position in the trees. Space is very cramped, There is a basic buffet-style restaurant at
but there’s hut accommodation for 83 Húsadalur – Volcano Huts Þórsmörk. Other-
people, which can be booked through Útiv- wise bring your own food.

ist. Grass and wooden planks lead around 88 Getting There & Away
the private camping space, which gets ex-
tremely crowded on summer weekends.
Showers cost kr500. BUS
Special all-terrain buses reach all the way to
Slyppugil Campsite CAMPGROUND € Þórsmörk when the roads are open (see www.
(%575 6700; www.hostel.is; sites per person road.is). Reykjavík buses to/from Þórsmörk stop
kr1200; hmid-Jun–mid-Aug) This campground in Hveragerði, Selfoss, Hella, Hvolsvöllur and
run by Hostelling International sits within Seljalandsfoss en route. The Reykjavík Excur-
sight (about 500m) from Langidalur and has sions schedule is particularly helpful in hopping
showers, toilets and barbecues. The warden around the sites within Þórsmörk. Note that

154 So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TS hikgóehgStaosru tho V í k land, while rivers descend from mysterious
buses are special amphibiously equipped rigs gorges and course across the broad sweep
for fording rivers. of pastures to black-sand beaches and the
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: crashing ocean. This rural area may be dot-
¨¨Buses 9/9a Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (kr7500, ted with farmhouses (many of which have
four hours, one daily May to mid-October guesthouses), but considering the volume of
stopping at Húsadalur, Stakkholtsgjá Canyon, summertime visitors, it still feels alternately
Básar, Langidalur; plus two additional services dramatic and pastoral.
June to August). Returning 9a buses have a
slightly simplified route heading back towards 1 Sights
Reykjavík; if you want the bus to stop at Básar
or Langidalur, you must request it with the The following landmarks are listed from
hut supervisor before noon. Other sample west to east.
prices: from Hella or Hvolsvöllur kr5000, from
Seljalandsfoss kr4000, from the impassable oSólheimajökull GLACIER
Krossá river crossroads kr2000.
Sterna (www.sterna.is) services: One of the easiest glacial tongues to reach
¨¨Bus 14/14a Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (kr6650, is Sólheimajökull. This icy outlet glacier
4½ hours, one daily late June to early Septem- unfurls from the main Mýrdalsjökull ice
ber). There’s also an afternoon bus to/from cap and is a favourite spot for glacial walks
Seljalandsfoss. and ice climbing. Rte 221 leads 4.2km off
Trex (www.trex.is) services: the Ring Road to a small car park and the
¨¨Bus T11 Reykjavík–Þórsmörk (kr7500, 4½ Arcanum Glacier Café (p160), from where
hours, two daily mid-June to mid-September; you can walk the 800m to the ice along a
stops at Gígjökull, Básar and Langidalur). Other wide track edging the glacial lagoon. Don’t
sample prices: from Hveragerði or Selfoss attempt to climb onto the glacier unguided.
kr6300, from Hella, Hvolsvöllur or Seljalands-
foss kr4600. Mýrdalsjökull ICE CAP

CAR This gorgeous glacier is Iceland’s fourth-largest
You cannot drive all the way into Þórsmörk with ice cap, covering 700 sq km and reaching a
your rental vehicle. End of story. If you have thickness of almost 750m in places. The
your own 4WD with excellent clearance, you can volcano Katla snoozes beneath, periodical-
plough down Rtes 249 and F249 until you reach ly blasting up through the ice to drown the
the crossroads for Húsadalur and Básar at the coastal plain in a deluge of melt water, sand
Krossá river. It’s there that you must leave your and tephra. Local operators run tours along
vehicle – you will not be able to ford the gushing the glacial crown as part of longer trips.
river unless you’re driving a super-Jeep and Don’t explore the area on your own; the ice
know what you’re doing. The buses that serve is unstable and the track to the caldera can
Þórsmörk are special amphibious vehicles out- be impossible to navigate.
fitted to pass the deep river and boulder-littered
ravines. If you park at the crossroads, you can Sólheimasandur BEACH
hitch with the bus (kr2000 per person) or a
super-Jeep. Super-Jeeps can get there in winter. On 21 November, 1973, a US Navy aeroplane
was forced to crash-land at Sólheimasandur.
HIKING The crew all survived, but the wreckage of
Þórsmörk is usually the terminus of the popu- the militarised Douglas DC-3 remains on
lar Laugavegurinn hike, with the beginning at the black-sand beach. It’s east of the Sólhei-
Landmannalaugar. It’s also popular to reach majökull/Rte 221 turn-off and south down a
Þórsmörk from Skógar on the beautiful Fim- farm lane to the beach. The road was closed
mvörðuháls hike. If you are planning to reach due to abuse by visitors, so now you must
Þórsmörk by foot we recommend one of these; walk from a basic car park. There is talk of
walking along Rtes 249 and F249 from Seljaland- paving a road to the site.
sfoss is far less scenic.
oDyrhólaey WILDLIFE RESERVE
It takes around 30 minutes to walk between
Langidalur and Húsadalur on the shortest path. One of the south coast’s most recognisable
natural formations is the rocky plateau and
Skógar to Vík huge stone sea arch at Dyrhólaey (deer-lay),
which rises dramatically from the surround-
As the Ring Road arcs east from Skógar to ing plain 10km west of Vík, at the end of Rte
Vík the haunches of the foothills rise to the 218. Visit its crashing black beaches and get
glaciers, mountain tops and volcanoes in- awesome views from atop the promontory.
The islet is a nature reserve that’s rich in

155

bird life, including puffins; some or all of it Giljur Gistihús GUESTHOUSE €€
can be closed during nesting season (15 May (%866 0176; s/d without bathroom incl break-
to 25 June). fast kr15,000/20,200, d/tr incl breakfast
kr25,700/38,600; hJun–mid-Sep) Just 7km
oReynisfjara BEACH west of Vík and tucked back off the Ring

On the west side of Reynisfjall, the high Road at the foot of lush cliffs creased by a
ridge above Vík, Rte 215 leads 5km down to
black-sand beach Reynisfjara. It’s backed by waterfall and dotted with grazing horses,
this small farm guesthouse offers rooms
an incredible stack of basalt columns that with shared or private bathroom and a
look like a magical church organ, and there
are outstanding views west to Dyrhólaey. hearty breakfast. Book via Icelandic Farm
Holidays (www.farmholidays.is).
Surrounding cliffs are pocked with caves
formed from twisted basalt, and puffins belly Gistiheimlilið Reynir GUESTHOUSE €€
(%894 9788; www.reyni.is; Reynisfjara; d with- So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TSohk óue grSsaoru tho V í k
flop into the crashing sea during summer. out bathroom kr14,000, f with/without bathroom
Immediately offshore are the towering Rey-
nisdrangur (p161) sea stacks. Watch for kr24,100/22,000) This family-owned silver
strip of rooms looks out over the ocean at
rogue waves: people are often swept away. Dyrhólaey. The twin bedrooms and six-

T Tours person family rooms share bathrooms and a
kitchen. Older mini-cottages have their own
Arcanum ADVENTURE TOUR sinks and toilets.

(%487 1500; www.arcanum.is) This popular
tour operator runs daily Sólheimajökull
glacier walks (kr12,990), plus snowmobile Sólheimahjáleiga Guesthouse B&B €€
(%864 2919; www.solheimahjaleiga.is; Sól-
(from kr24,990), quad-bike and other tours heimahjáleiga farm; d with/without bathroom
geared toward all ages. Based on Ytri-Sólhei-
mar I farm 11km east of Skógar. Offers Rey- kr27,500/23,400, tr with/without bathroom
kr38,400/33,300, q kr49,300; p) A series of
kjavík pick up and local accommodation. cosy renovated farm buildings house rooms

Mountain Excursion ADVENTURE TOUR with shared bathrooms and a kitchen, and
family rooms upstairs with private bath-
(%897 7737; www.mountainexcursion.is) A small rooms. A newly built silver building has ten
outfit offering two-hour Sólheimajökull
glacier hikes (kr14,900) and a volcano su- cosy rooms with private bathrooms. Find it
11km east of Skógar, just north of the Ring
per-Jeep tour (kr23,900). Based at Volcano Road.
Hotel (p160).

4 Sleeping & Eating Farmhouse Lodge B&B €€
(%571 5879; www.farmhouse.is; Skeiðflöt; d with/
Note that camping is prohibited on without bathroom incl breakfast kr39,500/37,000,
Dyrhólaey. apt kr39,500) Surprisingly sleek and contem-
porary designer rooms fill this low-key farm
oGarðar GUESTHOUSE € lodge on the Ring Road 14km west of Vík.
(%487 1260; www.reynisfjara-guesthouses.com;
Reynisfjara; cottages kr12,000-18,000) Garðar, at Bedside tables are made from hewn tree
trunks, public spaces are tastefully decorat-
the end of Rte 215, to the west of Vík, is a ed and the buffet breakfast is generous.
magical, view-blessed place. Friendly farmer
Ragnar rents out self-contained beachside
Mið-Hvoll Cottages COTTAGES €€
(%863 3238; www.hvoll.com; cottages kr21,000)
huts: one stone cottage sleeps four, other This stand of seven cosy wooden cottages sits
timber cottages sleep two to four. Linen
costs kr1500 per person. within sight of Dyrhólaey in a pastoral area
south of the Ring Road, with mountain and
oGrand Guesthouse Garðakot B&B €€ ocean views. Each kitchen-equipped cottage
sleeps five; linen and towels cost kr1500 per
(%487 1441; www.ggg.is; Garðakot farm; d person. The owners also offer horse riding
kr26,000) Set on a pastoral sheep farm, this on nearby beaches and pastures for all ages
small tidy house holds four beautiful rooms, and skill levels (from kr6000).
two with private bathrooms. Heated hard- Find it about 12km west of Vík, 3km down
wood floors, sweeping views of volcanoes tiny Rte 216, just west of the turn-off for
and sea and friendly proprietors, pretty de- Dyrhólaey (Rte 218).
cor, serenity and flat-screen TVs for all. It’s
14km west of Vík, south of the Ring Road on (Continued on page 160)
Rte 218.

1 56 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Northern Lights

Topping countless bucket lists and with oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen in
filling Instagram feeds, the Northern the upper atmosphere. These collisions
Lights (or aurora borealis) are a magnet produce the haunting greens and
drawing countless cool-weather visitors, magentas as the earth’s magnetic field
who arrive with fingers crossed for good draws the wind towards the polar
viewing conditions, their necks craned regions.
skywards.
Where & How to See Them
What Are They?
Catching a glimpse of the Northern
The Inuit thought the Northern Lights Lights requires nothing more than a
were the souls of the dead; Scandinavian dark, partly clear night (ie few clouds)
folklore described them as the spirits and a pinch of luck. It’s as simple as
of unmarried women; and the Japanese that.
believed that a child conceived under the
dancing rays would be fortunate in life. Many tour companies offer ‘Northern
Modern science, however, has a different Lights tours’ (by boat, jeep or bus) – they
take on the aurora borealis. are essentially taking you to an area
with less light pollution and cloud cover
The magical curtains of colour that to increase your viewing odds. You can
streak across the northern night sky do this yourself, too, though we don’t
are the result of solar wind – a stream recommend inexperienced winter drivers
of particles from the sun that collides chase clear skies in remote, snowy areas.

157

KRISSANAPONG WONGSAWARNG/SHUTTERSTOCK © KRISSANAPONG WONGSAWARNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1. Jökulsárlón (p327) COOLKENGZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
2. Kirkjufell (p186)
3. Skaftafell (p319)

Head to recommended viewing when the aurora is strong, even the lights
spots on the outskirts of Reykjavík of Reykjavík can’t hide them.
(these include Grótta lighthouse at
Seltjarnarnes, or Öskjuhlíð hill), or book Predicting Activity
a few nights at a rural inn and wait for
the light show in the evening. Many Predicting the likelihood of an aurora is
hotels offer viewing wake-up calls should close to impossible, but there are various
the lights appear in the middle of the tools, apps and alerts that report factors
night while you’re asleep. such as solar activity and therefore the
likelihood of seeing one in the short
Recent winters have been excellent term.
for Northern Lights, with viewings
beginning as early as late August. Mid- The comprehensive website of the
September to mid-April is the ‘official’ Icelandic Met Office details aurora
season, but it can be longer, in the right activity, cloud cover, sunlight and
conditions. Peak winter months enjoy moonlight, in order to provide an aurora
the most darkness (an important factor forecast (generally for the week ahead,
for viewing), but also heavier weather from September to mid-April). Check
conditions, storms and cloud cover. it out at http://en.vedur.is/weather/
forecasts/aurora. More resources are
And note you don’t always need to be outlined at www.easyaurora.com.
away from the city to enjoy a show –

©Lone- HEATHER CARSWELL/LONELY PLANET ©

158

KELLY CHENG/GETTY IMAGES ©159
GAVIN QUIRKE/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. Seljalandsfoss (p141)
Pick your way along a slippery path to stand behind the
cascade as it thunders into the pool below.
2. Blue Lagoon (p101)
Ringed by a black-lava field, these geothermal pools
are rich in skin-softening minerals, mud and algae.
3. Þórsmörk (p152)
Three glaciers surround this nature reserve, site of
some spectacular hiking.
4. Icelandic horses
Icelandic horses – brought to Iceland by the Vikings –
have an unusual gait, the tölt, a smooth running walk.

WANDERLUSTER/GETTY IMAGES ©

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VST hlí keeeSpoi nugth& E at i ng16 0 (Continued from page 155)

KATLA GEOPARK

In 2011 Iceland formed its first ‘geopark’ to protect a region of great geological impor-
tance, promote local culture and sustainable development, and educate visitors. The
Katla Geopark (%560 2043; www.katlageopark.is) extends from Hvolsvöllur northeast to
the great Vatnajökull and down to the volcanic black-sand beaches. It includes its name-
sake Katla volcano, the infamous Eyjafjallajökull and the tortured earth at Lakagígar. All
told, that’s about 9% of Iceland. There is no park office, but the geopark website offers
information.

Of all the volcanoes in Iceland, it is thought that Katla may cause the most trouble to
Icelanders over the next few years. This highly active 30km-long volcano, buried deep
under the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, has erupted roughly twice per century in the past. Since
the last eruption was in 1918, it’s now several decades overdue.

It’s expected that when Katla does blow, days of ash fall, tephra clouds and lightning
strikes will follow the initial explosion, with flash floods caused by the sudden melting
of glacial ice. The geological record shows that past eruptions have created tidal waves,
which have boomeranged off the Vestmannaeyjar and deluged the area where the town
of Vík stands today.

Local residents receive regular evacuation training for the day when Katla erupts. In
the event of an eruption, all mobile phones within range of a tower (including yours) will
receive a warning. After the alert, farmers must hang a notice on their front doors to
show that they have evacuated, before unplugging their electric fences, opening cattle
sheds so that their animals can flee to higher ground, and heading for one of the evacua-
tion centres in Hvolsvöllur, Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur.

Hótel Dyrhólaey HOTEL €€ Arcanum Glacier Café CAFE €
(%487 1333; www.dyrholaey.is; d kr27,100-33,100; (Café Solheimajökull; %547 1500; www.arcanum.
i) On a bluff 10km west of Vík, this 88- is; snacks kr750-1375; h9.30am-5pm May-Sep,
room hotel is popular with tour groups. reduced hours Oct-Apr) This welcoming oasis at
Large rooms with basic mod cons sprout off the foot of the Solheimajökull glacier tongue
three wings with wide, carpeted hallways, offers a range of simple snacks such as pizza,
and new additions continue being added. sandwiches and cakes.
The restaurant is open from 7pm to 9pm
from May to October, and also occasionally Svarta Fjaran CAFE €€
(Black Beach Restaurant; %571 2718; www.svarta
for lunch. fjaran.com; Reynisfjara; snacks kr990, dinner mains

Guesthouse Steig GUESTHOUSE €€€ kr2500-6000; h11am-10pm) Black volcanic
(%487 1324; www.guesthousesteig.is; d with/with- cubes, meant to mimic the nearby black
out bathroom incl breakfast kr32,890/23,000; i) beach Reynisfjara with its famous basalt col-
Sixteen kilometres west of Vík and 1.5km umns, house this contemporary restaurant
north of the Ring Road on a dirt track, sweet that serves homemade cakes and snacks
Guesthouse Steig is a simple farm building during the day and a full dinner menu at
filled with surprisingly spacious, modern night. Plate-glass windows give views to the
and bright rooms. There’s a shared kitchen, ocean and Dyrhólaey beyond.
the staff are friendly, and it feels like a real
rural homestay.
Vík
Volcano Hotel HOTEL €€€
(%486 1200; www.volcanohotel.is; Ketilsstaðaskóli; POP 320
s/d/f incl breakfast from kr27,200/31,900/40,500)
This seven-room hotel, 11.5km west of Vík, The welcoming little community of Vík (aka
plays with a volcano motif in its decor: floors Vík í Mýrdal) has become a booming hub for
are made from a mosaic of pebbles, and can- a very beautiful portion of the south coast.
dles glow throughout. It’s a top hotel option Iceland’s southernmost town, it’s also the
in the area, so books up early. Mountain Ex- rainiest, but that doesn’t stop the madhouse
cursion, a small tour operator, is based here. atmosphere in summer, when every room
within 100km is booked solid. With loads
of services, Vík is a convenient base for the
beautiful basalt beach Reynisfjara and its

161

puffin cliffs, and the rocky plateau Dyrhólaey Vík’s small, homey, year-round hostel is in
(both just to the west) and for the volcanoes the beige house on the hill behind the vil-
running from Skógar to Jökulsárlón glacier lage centre. Good facilities include a guest
lagoon and beyond. Along the coast, white- kitchen and bike hire (per half-/full day
capped waves wash up on black sands and kr2000/3000), plus several stand-alone
the cliffs glow green from all that rain. Put cottages sleeping up to eight people. Staff
simply, it’s gorgeous. also arrange local tours (from kr9000) and
paragliding (kr35,000; May to September).
1 Sights There’s a kr750 discount for HI members.
Green-certified.
Reynisdrangur LANDMARK

Vík’s most iconic cluster of sea stacks is Vík Campsite CAMPGROUND €
known as Reynisdrangur, which rise from
the ocean like ebony towers at the western (Tjaldsvæðið Vík; %487 1345; www.vikcamping.is; So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le TVS hií gkehStosu th
Klettsvegur 7; sites per adult kr1500; hJun-Sep)
end of Vík’s black-sand beach. Tradition says The campsite sits under a grassy ridge at the
they’re masts of a ship that trolls were steal-
ing when they got caught in the sun. The eastern end of town, just beyond the Hótel
Edda. An octagonal building houses cook-
nearby cliffs are good for puffin watching. ing facilities, a washing machine, toilets
A bracing walk up from Vík’s western end
takes you to the top of Reynisfjall ridge and showers (kr200), and a new one should
open in 2017. There are also four little cot-
(340m), offering superb views. tages (kr10,000).

Víkurkirkja CHURCH oGuesthouse Carina B&B €€

(Hátún) High above town, Vík’s 1930s church (%699 0961; www.guesthousecarina.is; Mýrar-
has stained-glass windows in spiky geomet-
rical shapes, but we like it most for its village braut 13; s/d/q without bathroom incl breakfast
from kr16,900/21,900/31,500; p) Friendly Ca-
views. rina and her husband Ingvar run one of the

Brydebúð MUSEUM best lodging options in Vík. Neat-as-a-pin,
spacious rooms with good light and clean
(%487 1395; http://brydebud.vik.is; Víkurbraut shared bathrooms fill a large converted
28; museum adult/child kr500/free; h11am-8pm
Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug) In town, the house near the centre of town.

tin-clad house Brydebúð was built in Vest- Heimagisting Erika B&B €€
mannaeyjar in 1831 and moved to Vík in
1895. Today it houses the tourist office, the (%487 1117; www.erika.is; Sigtún 5; d without bath-
room incl breakfast kr21,000) German Erika is a
Halldórskaffi restaurant and a small muse- warm hostess with a lovely panorama-filled
um with displays on local fishing, as well as
explanations of what it’s like to live under house and a couple of guest rooms. Her
highly praised breakfasts feature homemade
the volcano Katla. jams, syrups and herbal teas (many for sale).

T Tours Bookings essential; cash only.

Skógar (33km west of Vík) and Hvolsvöllur Hótel Edda Vík HOTEL €€
are the hubs for activity tours on the south (%444 4840; www.hoteledda.is; Klettsvegur 1-5; d
coast. In Vík, you can check with the hostel incl breakfast kr27,000; pi) This motel-style
for tours to Mýrdalsjökull. Many Reykjavík place on a busy spot just in front of the Ice-
tour companies also make the long haul out landair Hotel and near the N1 petrol station
here. has unmemorable but decent rooms, 31 of
which have phone, TV and bathroom, and
Katla Track JEEP TOUR 10 of which are cottages with en suite bath-

(%849 4404; www.katlatrack.is) Katla Track rooms. It shares a reception desk with Ice-
runs tours of the area (kr29,900, from Rey-
kjavík kr44,900) that take in local land- landair Hotel; breakfasts are sumptuous.

marks and get to the edge of Mýrdalsjökull. oIcelandair Hótel Vík HOTEL €€€
(%487 1480, booking 444 4000; www.icelandair
4 Sleeping hotels.com; Klettsvegur 1-5; d/tr/f from

Vík HI Hostel HOSTEL € kr24,500/29,000/50,000; p) This sleek
black-window-fronted hotel is improbably
(Norður-Vík Hostel; %487 1106; www.hostel. tucked just behind the Hótel Edda, on the
is; Suðurvíkurvegur 5; dm/d without bathroom
kr4750/12,900, cottages from kr32,800; i) S eastern edge of town, near the campground.

162

The hotels share a lobby (and have the same is very popular in high season for its
friendly owners), but that’s where the resem- crowd-pleasing menu ranging from burgers
blance ends. The Icelandair hotel has suit- and pizza to lamb fillet. Be prepared to wait
ably swanky rooms, some with views to the in summer sinceit doesn’t take reservations.
rear cliffs or the sea. The light, natural decor Weekend nights it stays open later as a bar.
is inspired by the local environment.
Ströndin Bistro INTERNATIONAL €€
(%487 1230; www.strondin.is; Austurvegur 18,
Puffin Hotel HOTEL €€€ Vīk; mains kr2000-5000; h6-10pm) Behind the
(%467 1212; www.puffinhotelvik.is; Víkurbraut
24-26; d/tr incl breakfast from kr29,400/36,000; N1 petrol station is this semi-smart wood-
i) This busy complex of bare-bones and panelled option enjoying sea-stack vistas.
small rooms is packed in high season, often Go local with lamb soup or fish stew, or
by tour groups. Prices are stiff for what you global with pizzas and burgers.
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VTE haí ktei nS go u th get. It also has a small hostel (single/double
without bathroom from kr11,000/13,400) Kjarval SUPERMARKET
and apartments to rent (from kr50,100). (%487 1325; Víkurbraut 4;
Groceries. h 9am-9pm)

New owners hope to improve the standards. 7 Shopping

5 Eating

Víkurskáli INTERNATIONAL € Víkurprjón GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(%487 1230; Austurvegur 18; mains kr1400-3000; (%487 1250; www.vikwool.is; Austurvegur 20, Vīk;
h8am-7pm) The big Icewear souvenir and
h11am-9pm) Grab a booth and a burger at knitwear shop next to the N1 station is a
the old-school grill inside the N1 with a view
of Reynisdrangur. Daily specials from casse- coach-tour hit. You can peek inside the fac-
tory portion to see woollens being made.
role to lamb stew.

oSuður-Vík ICELANDIC, ASIAN €€ Vínbúðin ALCOHOL

(%487 1515; www.facebook.com/Sudurvik; (Ránarbraut 1; h4-6pm Mon-Thu, 2-6pm Fri)
National liquor chain with limited hours.
Suðurvíkurvegur 1, Vīk; mains kr2100-5000;
hnoon-10pm) The friendly ambience, from
hardwood floors and interesting artwork to 88 Information
smiling staff, helps elevate this restaurant
beyond the competition. Food is Icelan- Tourist Information Centre (% 487 1395;
dic hearty, and ranges from heaping steak www.visitvik.is; Víkurbraut 28; h10am-8pm
sandwiches with bacon and Béarnaise sauce Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug) Inside
Brydebúð.

to Asian (think Thai satay with rice). In a 88 Getting There & Away
warmly lit silver building atop town. Book
ahead in summer. Vík is a major stop for all Reykjavík–Höfn bus
routes; buses stop at the N1 petrol station.
Halldórskaffi INTERNATIONAL €€ Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
(%487 1202; www.halldorskaffi.is; Víkurbraut 28, ¨¨Bus 51 Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík–Vík
Vīk; mains kr2000-5000; h11am-10pm Jun-Aug, kr5880, 2¾ hours, two daily) If you take the
reduced hours Sep-May) Inside Brydebúð mu- early bus you can stop in Vík then continue on
seum, this lively timber-lined all-rounder to Höfn on the later bus; however, from Sep-

RESPECTING NATURE

Tantalising as the sights of Iceland may be, with its black-sand beaches and glaciers
glinting along the roadside, it is paramount to realise that there are real dangers involved.
For example, the famous beach Reynisfjara near Vík is known for rogue waves, and tour-
ists are regularly rescued or drowned there. As for glaciers, no one should go onto them
without experienced, local guidance. Crevasses form suddenly and are often invisible
(beneath snow), gasses can be emitted by volcanic activity, and flooding (sometimes
invisible from above) can destabilise the ice even further.

With the growing popularity of tourism in Iceland, the foolhardy behaviour of inexpe-
rienced visitors regularly makes the news (one man drove his family onto a glacier in a
rental car). Don’t be one of them. Always check on local conditions, change your plan if
it’s not safe, and log your treks with www.safetravel.is.

163

tember to May service is reduced and you can’t washed out from underneath Mýrdalsjökull So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le SVE aleesettpmoianfngVní&ka eE yajtai nrg
count on that connection. during Katla eruptions. This 700-sq-km
Sterna (www.sterna.i) services: desert is bleak and desolate (some say
¨¨Bus 12/12a Reykjavík–Vík–Höfn (Reykjavík– haunted), but rather awe-inspiring. It looks
Vík kr5600, 4¼ hours, one daily June to lifeless, but Arctic foxes and seabirds are
mid-September). common sights.

Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: South of Rte 1, the small peak of Hjörleif-
¨¨Bus 20/20a Reykjavík–Skaftafell (Reykjavík– shöfði (221m) rises above the sands and
Vík kr7500, four hours, one daily June to early offers good views towards Vestmannaeyjar.
September). On the other side of Rte 1, the green hill
¨¨Bus 21/21a Reykjavík–Skógar (Reykjavík–Vík of Hafursey (582m) is another option for
kr7500, 3¾ hours, one daily June to August) walks from Vík.
One of the two services to Skógar goes as far
as Vík each day. VESTMANNAEYJAR

East of Vík Jagged and black, the Vestmannaeyjar
(sometimes called the Westman Islands)
Mælifell form 15 eye-catching silhouettes off the
southern shore. The islands were formed by
On the edge of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, submarine volcanoes around 11,000 years
the 642m-high Mælifell ridge and the coun- ago, except for Surtsey, the archipelago’s
tryside around it are spectacular. The sim- newest addition, which rose from the waves
ple, idyllic cottages and campsite at Þakgil in 1963. Surtsey was made a Unesco World
(%893 4889; www.thakgil.is; Höfðarbrekkua- Heritage Site in 2008, but its unique scientif-
frétti; sites per person kr1500, cabins kr25,000; ic status means that it is not possible to land
hJun–mid-Sep), a green bowl among stark there, except for scientific study.
mountains and dramatic rock formations,
make a convenient base for explorations. Heimaey is the only inhabited island. Its
You can walk up Mælifell or to the nunatak little town and sheltered harbour lie be-
(hill or mountain completely surrounded tween dramatic klettur (escarpments) and
by a glacier) Huldufjöll, if you are proper- two ominous volcanoes – blood-red Eldfell
ly equipped. There are also easier walks and conical Helgafell. These days Heimaey
around the nearby rivers. Check on weather is famous for its puffins (around 10 mil-
and route conditions before leaving. lion birds come here to breed); Þjóðhátíð,
Iceland’s biggest outdoor festival, held in
You can drive to Þakgil, 15km along an August; and its state-of-the-art volcano
extremely rough dirt road (Rte 214) that museum.
branches off Rte 1 about 5km east of Vík, or
there is a hiking trail from Vík. Heimaey

4 Sleeping & Eating POP 4290

Buy groceries and food in Vík – there are no The small town of Heimaey (hey-my) is en-
facilities in the isolated Mælifell ridge area. cased in a fortress of jagged lava; its port
sits at the end of a contorted waterway that
Hótel Katla – Höfðabrekka HOTEL €€€ carves a path between towering cliffs dotted
(%487 1208; www.hotelkatla.is; Höfðabrekka; d with bird nests. Although only a few kilo-
incl breakfast from kr31,000; i) At the start metres from the mainland, Heimaey feels
of Rte 214, 5.5km east of Vík, Hótel Katla – light years away, lost amid the frigid waters
Höfðabrekka is a large country hotel with 72 of the North Atlantic.
comfy rooms with en suite bathrooms in an-
nexes of varying vintage. Four hot-pots and The volcanoes that formed Heimaey have
a good restaurant, too. come close to destroying the island on sev-
eral occasions. The most famous eruption
Mýrdalssandur in modern times began unexpectedly at
1.45am on 23 January 1973, when a vast fis-
The vast black-lava sand flats of Mýrdalssan- sure burst open, gradually mutating into the
dur, east of Vík, are formed from material volcano Eldfell, and prompting the island’s
evacuation.

164 lowed up by the 1973 lava, but some have
been rebuilt. Above them, you can see the
History remains of the town’s old water tanks, also
crushed by molten rock.
Over the centuries the island of Heima-
ey was a marauders’ favourite. The Eng- ¨¨Landlyst MUSEUM
lish raided the island throughout the 15th
century, building the stone fort Skansinn (h11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) F A shock-
as their HQ. In 1627 Heimaey suffered its ing 80% of Heimaey’s babies once died at
most violent attack at the hands of Algerian birth, until in the 1840s an island woman,
pirates, who went on a killing spree, mur- Sólveig, was sent abroad to be trained as a
dering 36 islanders and kidnapping 242 midwife. The tiny wooden house Landlyst
more (almost three-quarters of the popula- was Sólveig’s maternity hospital (and is the
tion). The rest managed to escape by abseil- second oldest building on the island). Today
ing down cliffs or hiding in caves along theSo u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VSHiegsihmttamseaynn a e yj a rit contains a small display of her blood-
west coast. Those who were kidnapped were letting equipment and other 19th-century
taken as slaves to north Africa; years later, medical paraphernalia.
27 islanders had their freedom bought for
them…and had a long journey home. ¨¨Stafkirkjan CHURCH

1 Sights (h11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) The bitumen-
coated Stafkirkjan is a reconstruction of a
The island’s sights cluster in the main vil- medieval wooden stave church. It was pre-
lage, on the point around Skalinn, and in sented by the Norwegian government in
the fascinating fresh lava fields and volcano, 2000 to celebrate 1000 years of Christianity.
plus along puffin-viewing cliffs outside of
town. You can download an iPhone or iPad oSæheimar AQUARIUM
guide with treasure hunt by searching ‘Vest-
mannaeyjar’ in the App Store. (%481 1997; www.saeheimar.is; Heiðarvegur 12;
adult/child kr1200/500; h10am-5pm May-Sep,
A museum pass for Sæheimar, Sagnhei- 1-4pm Sat Oct-Apr) The Aquarium and Nat-
mar and Eldheimar costs kr3200 for one ural History Museum has an interesting
person, or kr8700 for a family. collection of stuffed birds and animals, vid-
eos on puffins and catfish, and fish tanks of
Icelandic fish. It’s great fun for the family,
1 Town Centre and there’s often a teenage puffin wobbling

oEldheimar MUSEUM about – the museum is an informal bird hos-
pital as well.
(%488 2700; www.eldheimar.is; Gerðisbraut 10;
adult/child kr2300/1200; h10.30am-6pm May–
mid-Oct, 1-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Oct–Apr) More Sagnheimar Byggðasafn MUSEUM

than 400 buildings lie buried under lava (Folk Museum; %488 2045; www.sagnheimar.is;
Raðhústræti; adult/child kr1000/free; h11am-5pm
from the 1973 eruption, and on the edge mid-May–mid-Sep, 1-4pm Sat mid-Sep–mid-May)
of the flow ‘Pompei of the North’ is a new
museum revolving around one house exca- Housed in the city library, this interactive
folk museum tells the story of Heimaey from
vated from 50m of pumice, along what was the era of marauding pirates up to the 1973
formerly Suðurvegur. The modern volcan-
ic-stone building allows a glimpse into the eruptions and beyond. Displays also shed
light on local sports heroes and native birds.
home with its crumbling walls and intact
but toppled knick-knacks, and is filled with
multimedia exhibits on the eruption and its Stóraklif & Heimaklettur VIEWPOINT

aftermath, from compelling footage and eye- The top of the craggy precipice Stóraklif is
a treacherous 30-minute climb from behind
witness accounts to the home-owners’ story. the N1 petrol station at the harbour. The

oSkansinn FORT, HISTORIC SITE trail starts on the obvious 4WD track; as it
gets steeper you’re ‘assisted’ by ropes and
This lovely green area by the sea has several chains (don’t trust them completely). If you
unique historical sights. The oldest struc-
ture on the island was Skansinn, a 15th- can bear the terror, you’ll get outstanding
views. Further out on the pier, Heimaklettur
century fort built to defend the harbour (not is more perilous, with wild rickety ladders.
too successfully – when Algerian pirates
arrived in 1627, they simply landed on the Both are top puffin-breeding grounds. When
it’s rainy or slick, neither is a good idea.
other side of the island). Its walls were swal-

165

Heimaey e#0 500 m
A 0 0.25 miles
BC D

Stóraklif &D Hafnargata Herjólfur f# Eimskip Ferry
Heimaklettur (450m)Garðavegur Ferry Offices f# Herjólfur
1
283#ú# Skansinn V#3 Ü# 7 1
â# 4
Skildingav
Strandvegur ú# 21 9# 7 7 7DStrandve gur
Tangagata Eldfellshraun
Hlíðarvegur (1km)
ò# ú# 20

#
777Há Cliffs
Græðisbr11 ï#ÿ# 15 Lava
HerjólfsgataVeHstVEmeIaMsntnAua2ú#rEbv4Yreaugþ#tuMr2ið#þ7stþ#ræúú##ÿ#12t2i5219128ú#1ÿ#7ÿ#16Helgafellsbra Field
2 Skólavegur So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VHS iegsihmttamseaynn a e yj a r
Bárustígur 2
#æ
Sæheimar
7772 Westman Islands Flatir

Golf Course (800m);
Glamping & Camping (850m);
Herjólfsdalur (1km) 7 7 7Hásteinsvegurÿ#ÿ#1413
66777Ráðhústræti ut

D Faxastígur 26

Vallargata Sólhlíð

3 Boð a slóð 66Brekastígurâ# 6 Asavegur 3
Heiðarvegur Búastaðabraut
ã# 10 Birkihlíð
Hólagata
Brimhólabraut 111111 Helgafellsbraut

Illugagata Ü#5 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 T1ú1ng1ata
Brekkugata
Kirkjuvegur 11111 Litlagerði
111111

11111

Hraunvegur D Old 111111 4
Football
4 Strembugata 11111 Eldheimar
Pitch â#
Höfðavegur 111111 1

Sóleyjarg

Vestmannaeyjar Stóragerði D
#– (1.5km) Eldfell (1km); Helgafell (1.5km)

ABCD

Heimaey 13 B&B Hrafnabjörg .....................................B3
14 Gistiheimilið Hreiðrið ..............................B2
æ Top Sights 15 Hótel Eyjar ................................................C2
1 Eldheimar................................................. D4 16 Hótel Vestmannaeyjar ............................C2
2 Sæheimar ................................................ B2 17 Sunnuhöll HI Hostel ................................C2
3 Skansinn ................................................... D1 ú Eating
18 Einsi Kaldi .................................................C2
æ Sights 19 Gott ...........................................................C2
4 Landlyst..................................................... D1 20 Krónan ...................................................... C1
5 Landskirkja .............................................. C4 21 Slippurinn ................................................. B1
6 Sagnheimar Byggðasafn ....................... C3 22 Stofan Bakhús .........................................C2
7 Stafkirkjan................................................. D1 23 Tanginn ..................................................... C1
24 Vöruval......................................................C2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours þ Shopping
8 Eyja Tours ................................................. C1 25 Nostra .......................................................C2
9 Ribsafari .................................................... C1 26 Útgerðin ....................................................C2
Segway Tours..................................(see 11) 27 Vínbúðin....................................................C2
10 Swimming Pool ....................................... A3
11 Viking Tours............................................. B2

ÿ Sleeping
12 Aska Hostel.............................................. C2

166

Landskirkja CHURCH oStórhöfði HIKING, BIRDWATCHING

The lava stopped just short of the Landskirk- A windy meteorological station has been
ja in the middle of town. The church’s carved
wooden doors feature scenes from Vestman- built on Stórhöfði (122m), the rocky penin-
sula at Heimaey’s southern end. It’s linked
naeyjar’s history. to the main island by a narrow isthmus

(created by lava from Helgafell’s eruption
1 Out of Town 5000 years ago), and there are good views
from the summit. There’s also a small
oEldfellshraun LAVA FIELD bird-watching hut for puffin viewing about

Known as Eldfellshraun, the new land creat- halfway up the hill; go from the first turnout
ed by the 1973 lava flow is now criss-crossed
with a maze of other-worldly hiking tracks on the right to the end of a trail across sheep
pasture, marked with a hiking sign.
So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le HVAcetsi mti vamietayinensa e yj a r that run down to the fort at Skansinn and It’s possible to scramble down to the
the area where the lava meets the town’s
houses, and all around the bulge of the raw, isthmus’ boulder beach at Brimurð and
continue north along the cliffs on the east
red eastern coast. Here you’ll find small coast, returning by a road just before the
black-stone beaches, the Gaujulundur lava
garden and a lighthouse. airport. From June to August Kervíkurfjall
and Stakkabót are good places for puffin
viewing.
oEldfell VOLCANO

The 221m-high volcanic cone Eldfell ap- oSwimming Pool SWIMMING
peared from nowhere in the early hours of
23 January 1973. Once the fireworks fin- (Sundlaug Vestmannaeyja; %488 2400; Brim-
hólabraut; adult/child Ik600/190; h6.15am-9pm
ished, heat from the volcano provided Hei- Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, reduced
maey with geothermal energy from 1976 to
1985. Today the ground is still hot enough in hours Sep-May) Heimaey’s got a great sports
complex with an indoor saltwater swimming
places to bake bread or char wood. Eldfell is pool, outdoor pools, hot-pots, a jacuzzi, wa-
an easy climb from town, up the collapsed
northern wall of the crater; stick to the path, ter slides (one with a trampoline) and a gym.
The indoor pool closes to the public 9am to
as the islanders are trying to save their latest 11.15am Monday to Friday.
volcano from erosion.

Helgafell VOLCANO Westman Islands Golf Course GOLF

Helgafell (226m) erupted 5000 years ago. Its (%481 2363; www.gvgolf.is; green fees kr7000)
Golfers can hire clubs (kr3500) at the wild,
cinders are grassed over today, and you can wonderful 18-hole seaside golf course in
scramble up here easily from the football
pitch on the road to the airport. Herjólfsdalur.

Herjólfsdalur LANDMARK West Coast HIKING, BIRDWATCHING

F Sheltered by an extinct volcano, green Several perilous tracks climb the steep slopes
around Herjólfsdalur, running along the top
and grassy Herjólfsdalur was the home of of Norðklettur to Stafnsnes, one of the
Vestmannaeyjar’s first settler, Herjólfur
Barðursson. Excavations have revealed re- prime puffin-breeding areas. The ascent is
exhilarating, but there are some sheer drops.
mains of a Norse house where a replica now A gentler walk runs south along the western
stands. The island’s campsite is also here.
On the cliffs west of the golf course, coast of the island, passing above numerous
lava caves where local people hid from the
there’s a little monument to the 200 people pirates in 1627. At Ofanleitishamar, hun-
who converted to Mormonism and departed
for Utah in the 19th century. dreds of puffins nest in the cliffs.

2 Activities T Tours

Ask at the tourist office for a detailed walk- Most boat tours coincide with ferry de-
ing and cycling map of Heimaey. Walks partures, making them convenient for day
through the lava fields, along puffin-nesting trippers.
areas and on the island’s western shores are
particularly ethereal. Hotel Eyjar has bicycle oRibsafari BOATING
rental.
(%661 1810, 846 2798; www.ribsafari.is; Básas-
kersbryggja 8, Harbour; 1hr tour per adult/child
kr8000/4500, Surtsey tour kr16,500/9500;

167

THE 1973 ERUPTION So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le FHVeessi mttiamveaynlsn a&eEyvj ae nrts

Without warning, at 1.45am on 23 January 1973 a mighty explosion blasted through the
winter’s night as a 1.5km-long volcanic fissure split the eastern side of the island. The
eruption area gradually became concentrated into a growing crater cone, which foun-
tained lava and ash into the sky.

Normally the island’s fishing boats would have been out at sea, but a force-12 gale had
prevented them from sailing the previous afternoon. Now calm weather and a harbourful
of boats allowed all but two to three hundred of the island’s 5273 inhabitants to be evac-
uated to the mainland. Incredibly, there was just a single fatality (from toxic gases).

Over the next five months more than 30 million tonnes of lava poured over Heimaey,
destroying 360 houses and creating a brand-new mountain, the red cinder cone Eldfell.
One-third of the town was buried beneath the lava flow, and the island increased in size
by 2.5 sq km.

As the eruption continued, advancing lava threatened to close the harbour and make
the evacuation permanent – without a fishing industry, there would have been little way
to survive on the island. In an attempt to slow down the inexorable flow of molten rock,
firefighters hosed the lava with over six million tonnes of cold sea water. The lava halted
just 175m short of the harbour mouth – actually improving the harbour by creating extra
shelter!

The islanders were billeted with friends and family on the mainland, watching the
fireworks and waiting to see if they could ever go home. Finally, the eruption finished, five
months after it started, at the end of June. Two-thirds of the islanders returned to face a
mighty clean-up operation. The fantastic Eldheimar (p164) museum gives a view into
the dramatic occurrence.

hmid-Apr–Oct) High adrenaline one-hour ing (one hour kr6000) along black-sand
tours run daily in a souped-up Zodiac that beaches.
jets through the archipelago. The small boat
allows the captain to navigate through little Segway Tours SEGWAY TOUR
caves and between rocky outcrops for up-
close views of bird colonies. Trips to Surtsey (%891 6818; www.segwaytours.is; Strandvegur 65,
(note: you cannot get off the boat) require Viking Tours; per hour kr6000) Zip around town.
a minimum of five people. Check online for
schedules and longer tours. z Festivals & Events

Circumnavigate the entire cluster of is- oÞjóðhátíð MUSIC
lands for kr11,500/6500 per adult/child (100
minutes). (National Festival Þjódhátíð Vestmannaeyjar; www.
dalurinn.is; kr22,900) Three-day Þjóðhátíð is
the country’s biggest outdoor festival. Held
at Herjólfsdalur festival ground over the last
Viking Tours BOAT TOUR, BUS TOUR weekend in July or the first weekend in Au-

(%488 4884; www.vikingtours.is; Strandvegur 65; gust, it involves music, dancing, fireworks,
h10am-6pm May–mid-Sep) Boat trips (adult/
child from kr6900/5900) take in the big a big bonfire, gallons of alcohol and, as the
night progresses, lots of drunken sex (it’s
bird-nesting sites on the south coast, and something of a teen rite of passage), with
sail into the sea cave Klettshellir. Bus trips
(adult/child kr5900/4900) tour the island. upwards of 17,000 people attending.
A song is written for each festival.
Children under nine are free. Extra flights are laid on from Reykjavík,

Eyja Tours BUS but you must book transport and accommo-
dation months in advance.
(%852 6939; www.eyjatours.com; Básaskersbrygg- Historically, the festival was first celebrat-
ja, Harbour) Bus tours cover the island’s high-
lights, such as the puffin colonies (adult/ ed when bad weather prevented Vestman-
naeyjar people from joining the mainland
child kr7000/3500). celebrations of Iceland’s first constitution (1

Lyngfell HORSE RIDING July 1874). The islanders held their own fes-

(%898 1809; www.lyngfell.123.is) Lyngfell, tival a month later, and it’s been an annual
on the road to Stórhöfði, offers horse rid-
tradition ever since.

168 also A-frame huts and barrel houses to rent.
Linen is kr1600 per person.
4 Sleeping
Gistiheimilið Hreiðrið GUESTHOUSE €
The 30-minute ferry ride from the mainland (%481 1045; http://tourist.eyjar.is; Faxastígur 33;
means many people visit Vestmannaeyjar s/d/q without bathroom kr7900/12,500/18,700)
as a day trip, though we highly recommend This guesthouse looks a little worse for
spending the night. Out of festival season it’s wear on the outside, but friendly Ruth en-
not hard to find lodging. Visit www.vestman
naeyjar.is for a full list of accommodation.

B&B Hrafnabjörg B&B € sures it feels like home. Features include a
well-stocked kitchen and a cosy TV lounge,
(%858 7727; www.facebook.com/BogBGuest and it also runs walking tours in summer.
house; Hásteinsvegur 40; s/d without bathroom incl
breakfast kr8800/13,400; hApr-Nov) This cosy Sleeping-bag accommodation costs kr4300.

So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VHS leesi metpamieanyngn a e yj a r B&B has tidy rooms and a large breakfast Hótel Eyjar HOTEL €€
room (perfect for the generous breakfast,
including homemade waffles). (%481 3636; www.hoteleyjar.is; Bárustígur 2; d/
studio kr23,000/24,000) Spacious, basic rooms
are well-lit and have private bathrooms;
Aska Hostel HOSTEL € some are extra-large with kitchenettes.
(%662 7266; www.askahostel.is; Bárustigur 11;
dm/d/q without bathroom kr5400/12,900/27,100)
This cheery yellow historic building is home Hótel Vestmannaeyjar HOTEL €€
(%481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is;
to a good hostel in the village centre with Vestmannabraut 28; s/d incl breakfast from
bright, modern rooms and welcoming staff.
kr14,600/20,500; i) Iceland’s first cinema is
now a pleasant hotel, with modern rooms
Sunnuhöll HI Hostel HOSTEL € (some with good town and harbour views),
(%481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is; Vest-
mannabraut 28; dm kr4750) Dorms are rarely friendly staff and the top restaurant Einsi
Kaldi downstairs. Book ahead in summer.
full, and there’s generally a quiet and laid-
back vibe here. Reception is at Hótel Vest- 5 Eating
mannaeyjar. HI members get a discount of
kr750. Heimaey has a surprisingly robust food
scene for such a remote-feeling isle, and has
Glamping & Camping CAMPGROUND € one of Iceland’s best restaurants: Slippurinn.
(%846 9111; www.glampingandcamping.is; sites There is a nice selection of cafes and eateries
per adult/child kr1300/free, huts & barrels kr7900- on and around Bárustigur.
9900; hmid-May–mid-Sep) Cupped in an ex-
tinct volcano, the Herjólfsdalur campsite Stofan Bakhús BAKERY €
(Bárustígur 7; baked goods kr300-990; h9am-
has hot showers, a laundry and cooking fa- 5pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat & Sun) Delicious
cilities. You can also pitch a tent inland and
across the street next to the football field at baked goodies and pastries with top-notch
coffee drinks.
Þórsheimili, which is less windy. There are

SURTSEY

In November 1963 the crew on the fishing boat Ísleifi II noticed something odd – the sea
south of Heimaey appeared to be on fire. Rather than flee, the boat drew up for a closer
look – and its crew were the first to set eyes on the world’s newest island.

The incredible subsea eruption lasted for 4½ years, throwing up cinders and ash to
form a 2.7 sq km piece of real estate (since eroded to 1.4 sq km). What else could it be
called but Surtsey (Surtur’s Island), after the Norse fire giant who will burn the world to
ashes at Ragnarök.

It was decided that the sterile island would make a perfect laboratory, giving a unique
insight into how plants and animals colonise new territory. Surtsey (www.surtsey.is) is
therefore totally off limits to visitors. Just so you know: in the race for the new land, the
blue-green algae Anabaena variabilis got there first. Another discovery? Fossils were
carried up by lava during the eruption and are now part of the island.

Both Ribsafari (p166) and Viking Tours (p167) run boat trips (no entry on the
island). You can get a vicarious view of Surtsey’s thunderous birth by visiting the display
at the museum Eldheimar (p164).

169

oSlippurinn ICELANDIC €€ Vínbúðin ALCOHOL

(%481 1515; www.slippurinn.com; Strandvegur (%481 1301; Vesturvegur 50; h11am-6pm Mon-
Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) National liquor
76; lunch kr 2200-3000, dinner kr3500-4000; chain.
hnoon-2.30pm & 5-10pm early May–mid-Sep)
Lively Slippurinn fills the upper storey of a
beautifully remodelled old machine work- 88 Information
shop that once serviced the ships in the
harbour. The food is delicious Icelandic with Tourist Information Centre (% 488 2555;
a level of creativity that sets it above most www.vestmannaeyjar.is; Strandvegur; h 9am-
restaurants in the country. Ingredients are 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) The
exquisite and combinations of fish, local summer tourist office is staffed by local teens
at a cafe-bookstore.

produce and locally sourced meats divine. 88 Getting There & Around So u th w e s t I c e l a n d & th e Go ld e n Ci rc le VSHhe siomtpampeai nyngn a e yj a r

oGott ORGANIC €€ AIR
(%481 3060; www.gott.is; Bárustigur 11; mains Vestmannaeyjar Airport (Vestmannaeyjaflug
kr1900-2600; v) Fresh fusion food is done völlur; VEY; % 481 1969; www.isavia.is) is about
with care, using organic, healthy ingredi- 3km south of central Heimaey; a taxi (p169)
ents in this jolly corner dining room. Think costs about kr2500, or you can walk. Atlants-
cod fillet with cauliflower puree or spelt- flug (p73) runs scheduled flights from Bakki
wrapped grilled chicken. (near the ferry port at Landeyjahöfn; one-way
adult/child kr8500/5950).
Tanginn ICELANDIC €€
(%414 4420; www.tanginn.is; Básaskersbryggja 8; There are two daily flights between Reykjavík’s
mains kr1600-5800) Giant windows looking domestic airport and Vestmannaeyjar on Eagle
onto the harbour and comfortable, modern Air (www.eagleair.is); approximately kr17,000
decor in slate and wood, make for a fun stop one way.

for fresh fish, burgers, creative salads and BOAT
the like. Dishes are beautifully presented Eimskip’s ferry Herjólfur (% 481 2800;
and there’s Icelandic beer on tap. www.eimskip.is; adult/child/bicycle/car
kr1320/660/660/2120) sails from Landey-
Einsi Kaldi SEAFOOD €€€ jahöfn (about 12km off the Ring Road between
(%481 1415; www.einsikaldi.is; Vestmannabraut 28; Hvolsvöllur and Skógar) to Heimaey year-
mains kr3300-6000; hnoon-10pm Jun–mid-Sep, round. The journey takes about 30 minutes.
reduced hours mid-Sep–May) On the ground Always reserve ahead for cars, and passengers
floor of Hótel Vestmannaeyjar, Einsi Kaldi should book ahead in high season, especially
is Heimaey’s highest-end dining experience, at peak day-tripper hours: the morning to
with well-crafted seafood recipes. Vestmannaeyjar and the afternoon back. You
must arrive at least 30 minutes before depar-
Self-Catering ture. Landeyjahöfn ferry terminal has vending
machines, bathrooms and water, but no other
Krónan SUPERMARKET services.

(Strandvegur 48; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm From 15 May to 14 September five boats depart
Sat & Sun) Groceries. daily (on Tuesdays there are four). Low-season
boats function on a reduced schedule.
Vöruval SUPERMARKET
In really foul weather (summer or winter), the
(Vesturvegur 18; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am- port at Landeyjahöfn can fill with sand, in which
9pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) Groceries in a case the ferry sails to/from Þorlákshöfn instead
geodesic dome. on a reduced schedule of two per day. The sail
takes 2¾ hours, and the fare is substantially
7 Shopping more. Changes are posted on the website and
Facebook page, and you need to check on your
Nostra ARTS & CRAFTS rebooking. It takes roughly two hours to drive
from Landeyjahöfn west to Þorlákshöfn.
(%571 0550; www.nostraverzlun.is; Vestmanna-
braut 33; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat) Getting to or from Landeyjahöfn, Strætó bus
Three local artists create interesting embroi- 52 runs from Reykjavík (Mjódd terminal)–Hver-
dery, clothing, textiles and homewares. agerði–Selfoss–Hella–Hvolsvöllur–Landey-
jahöfn (kr4200, 2¼ hours, three daily in sum-
Útgerðin CLOTHING, ARTS & CRAFTS mer); plus there’s a Landeyjahöfn taxi (p138).

(%891 9060; www.facebook.com/utgerdin; Vest- TAXI
mannabraut 37; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat) This Heimaey Taxi (% 698 2038, 897 1190)
large, modern shop is a good bet for Icelan-
dic crafts and design.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

West Iceland

Includes  Why Go?

Akranes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Geographically close to Reykjavík, yet far, far away in senti-
Borgarnes . . . . . . . . . . . 171 ment, West Iceland (known as Vesturland) West Iceland of-
Upper Borgarfjörður. . 178 fers everything from windswept beaches to historic villages
Stykkishólmur . . . . . . . 181 and awe-inspiring terrain in one neat little package. Yet
Grundarfjörður. . . . . . 186 many tourists have missed the memo, and you’re likely to
Ólafsvík . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 have remote parts of this wonderful region to yourself.
Rif. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Hellissandur . . . . . . . . 189 The long arm of Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a favourite for
Snæfellsjökull National its glacier, Snæfellsjökull, and the area around its national
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 park is tops for birding, whale watching, lava-field hikes and
Eiríksstaðir . . . . . . . . . 194 horse riding. Inland beyond Reykholt you’ll encounter lava
Búðardalur . . . . . . . . . 194 tubes and remote highland glaciers, including enormous
Hjarðarholt & Around.195 Langjökull with its unusual ice cave. Icelanders honour
Laugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 West Iceland for its local sagas: two of the best known, Lax-
dæla Saga and Egil’s Saga, took place along the region’s
brooding waters, marked today by haunting cairns and an
exceptional museum in lively Borgarnes.

Best Places to Eat Road Distances (km)

¨¨Bjargarsteinn Mathús Húsafell 65
(p187) Stykkishólmur 99 158
Hellnar 122 179 90
¨¨Settlement Centre Búðardalur 79 103 86 145
Restaurant (p176) Reykjavík 74 129 173 194 152

¨¨Gamla Rif (p189)

¨¨Narfeyrarstofa (p184)

Best Places to Stay Borgarnes
Húsafell
¨¨Hótel Egilsen (p183) Stykkishólmur
Hellnar
¨¨Hótel Flatey (p186) Búðardalur

¨¨Hótel Húsafell (p180)

¨¨Egils’s Guesthouse &
Apartments (p176)

171

HVALFJÖRÐUR of contemporary amenities, from double-
decker ‘executive doubles’ with giant picture
Hvalfjörður and the surrounding area feels windows, to a hot-pot named one of the ‘top
suddenly pastoral despite being a mere five hot tubs in the world’ by the New York
30-minute drive from the capital. Although Times. There’s also a good restaurant (two-
lacking the majesty of the Snæfellsnes Pen- course meal kr5900) with spectacular views.
insula further on, the sparkling fjord offers
excellent day-trip fodder. Those in a hurry to Akranes W e s t I c e l a n d ASHikvgarhlatfnsjeös&r Aðcutri v i t i es
get to Borgarnes and beyond should instead
head straight through the 5.7km-long tunnel POP 6970
(kr1000) beneath the fjord. Cyclists aren’t
permitted in the tunnel. Set under striking Akrafjall (572m), the
town of Akranes lies at the tip of the pen-
Interestingly, during WWII the fjord con- insula separating Hvalfjörður from Bor-
tained a submarine station; over 20,000 garfjörður. Largely an administrative and
American and British soldiers passed factory town, it’s mainly worth a stop for its
through. lighthouse and its sprawling Folk Museum
(Byggðasafnið í Görðum Akranesi; %431 5566;
Bring your own wheels. The buses be- www.museum.is; adult/child kr800/free; h10am-
tween Reykjavík and points north bypass 5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, by appointment mid-Sep–
the fjord by taking the tunnel. mid-May), with a restored boathouse, drying
shed, church and fishing boats.
1 Sights & Activities
BORGARBYGGÐ
oGlymur WATERFALL
Buzzy Borgarnes and its broad Borgar-
At the head of Hvalfjörður, Glymur, Iceland’s fjörður were the landing zone for several
highest waterfall (198m), can be reached by famous Icelandic settlers. Inland, up the
following the turn-off to Botnsdalur. From river-twined valley, you’ll find fecund farms
the end of the road, it’ll take a couple of with deep history leading to powerful stone-
hours to reach the cascade on rough trails; a strewn lava tubes and highlands, the gate-
log is placed to bridge one river only in sum- way to the ice caps beyond. This inland area
mer. Try to visit after heavy rains or snow- is part of a proposed Unesco Geopark, called
melt for full effect. the Saga Geopark, celebrating the unique
culture and landscape of the area.
Saurbæjarkirkja CHURCH

(Hallgrímskirkja í Saurbæ; Rte 47) The church at
the Saurbær farmstead is worth a look for its
beautiful stained-glass work by Gerður Hel-
gadóttir. It is named for Reverend Hallgrí-
mur Pétursson, who served here from 1651
to 1669, and composed Iceland’s most popu- Borgarnes
lar religious work, Passion Hymns.
POP 1890
Esja HIKING
Unassuming Borgarnes has got it going on.
On the southern side of Hvalfjörður you’ll For such a tiny place, it bubbles with local
find dramatic mount Esja (914m), a great life. One of the original settlement areas for
spot for wilderness hiking. The most popu- the first Icelanders, it’s loaded with history,
lar trail to the summit begins at Esjuberg, and sits on a scenic promontory along the
just north of Mosfellsbær, and ascends via broad waters of Borgarfjörður. Zip past the
Kerhólakambur (850m) and Kistufell busy petrol stations and go into the old
(830m). quarter to encounter the fun small-town
vibe and one of Iceland’s best museums.

4 Sleeping & Eating 1 Sights

Hvalfjörður has several places to stay and oSettlement Centre MUSEUM
good campgrounds. There are no grocery
stores (Landnámssetur Íslands; %437 1600; www.
settlementcentre.is; Brákarbraut 13-15; adult/child
1 exhibition kr1900/free, 2 exhibitions kr2500/
Hótel Glymur HOTEL €€€ free; h10am-9pm) Housed in an imagina-
(%430 3100; www.hotelglymur.is; d incl breakfast
from kr37,000; i) This hotel on the northern tively restored warehouse by the harbour,
the must-see Settlement Centre offers fasci-
side of Hvalfjörður, near Saurbær, is a cache nating insights into the history of Icelandic

172 Brjánslækur Flatey
(18km)
0 Skarðsströnd
0 40 km
20 miles Skarð

Breiðafjörður Kolfingsnes

Elliðaey

Höskuldsey Hrappsey Staðarfell

Grundarfjörður Stykkishólmur BrokeyFellströnd
W e s t I c e l a n d SBiogrhgtasrnbeysgg ð Hvammsfjörður

Bjarnarhöfn 54

Hellissandur Rif 54 54 Drápuhlíðarfjall 55
Öndverðarnes 574Ólafsvík (527m)
Kirkjufell Hlíðarvatn
Saxhöll Snæfellsjökull (463m) Grundarfjörður 56
National Park
Kerlingarskarð

Snæfellsjökull Snæfellsnes Peninsula Gullborgarhraun

(1446m) Rauðfeldsgjá Búðir 54 Vegamót Gerðuberg Heggstaðir

Dritvík 574 Arnarstapi Búðavík Eldborg
(110m)
Djúpalónssandur Vatnshellir Breiðavík 539
Hellnar

Haffjörður

540

Hítardalur

Faxaflói 533
Álftanes

Borgarfjörður

Akranes

REYKJAVÍK

West Iceland Highlights

1 Snæfellsjökull National 2 Stykkishólmur (p181) trailside crags on the slender
Park (p189) Tramping Wandering past charming trail east from Hellnar.
through crunchy lava fields, chocolate-box houses in this 4 Langjökull Glacier
along windswept coastlines, buzzy harbour town. (p180) Exploring deep
and over Snæfellsjökull. 3 Coastal walks (p192) inside this glacier’s ice cave,
Following seabirds past or tracing its raw edges on the
Kaldidalur Corridor.

Króksfjarðarnes Akureyri 173
690 (85km)
Westfjords Efri-Brú
590 Hrútafjörður Hvammstangi
60
1
Laugarbakki

Laugar 578
Hvammur
DALIR

590 Hjarðarholt Laxá Lax5á9rdalur 68

BúðardSatlóurra-VatnshoHrnösEkiurílkdssssttaaððiirr Staðarskáli
586

Haukadalsá

Erpsstaðir W e s t I c e l a n d BS iogrhgtasrnbeysgg ð
Haukadalur Kaldá

60

Arnarvatnsheiði

Hítarvatn Baula 1
(934m)
F578

Tvídægra

Grábrók Surtshellir & Eiríksjökull
Hraunsnef Stefánshellir (1675m)

Bifröst Viðgelmir

BORGARBYGGÐ Fljótstunga Hallmundarhraun

1 523 Hraunfossar Barnafoss
Munaðarnes Reykholt 518

Svignaskarð 50 Húsafell Haftafell
Krauma (1167m)

Borg á Mýrum Hvítá Kleppjárnsreykir Ok 551
Borgarnes Hvanneyri (1190m) Langjökull
50
Geitlandsjökull
Flókadalur Kaldidalur (1390m)

Corridor

53 550

Skarðsheiði 508 Þórisjökull
(1350m)
Hafnarfjall 520 52
(844m) F338

1 Saurbær Whaling Station Skjaldbreiður
(1060m)
Akrafjall
(572m) Botnsdalur Geysir
HvalfjörHðuvrTaulfnjönreðl ur Glymur
47 37
365 Laugarvatn
Gullfoss
GOLDEN CIRCLE
Esja 48
(914m)
1

Esjuberg Kistufell 36 36
(830m)
Mosfellsbær Þingvallavatn

5 Borgarnes (p171) spending a night (or six) on 8 Viðgelmir (p180)
Stepping back into Saga times this tiny island. Discovering the fascinating
at the impressive Settlement 7 Breiðafjörður (p181) subterranean remains of a
Centre in this fun-loving town. Sailing past swooping puffins violent volcanic eruption in
6 Flatey (p186) Casting and searching for whales on this huge lava tube.
away all of your cares and this beautiful fjord.

174 e# 0 500 m
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Borgarnes B C D
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Bus Stop
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175

Borgarnes accompanied by English translations, don’t
be shy about having museum staff show you
æ Top Sights through. The story behind each photograph
1 Borg á Mýrum........................................ C1 is captivating; you’ll be thinking about this
2 Settlement Centre ................................B7 exhibit long after you’ve left.

æ Sights Brákin SCULPTURE
3 Borgarfjördur Museum ........................B6
4 Brákin .....................................................B7 Þorgerður Brák was Egill’s nursemaid,
5 Skallagrímsgarður ................................B6 thought to be a Celtic slave. In one of the
more dramatic moments in Egil’s Saga,
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours she heroically saves Egill’s life (from an at-
6 Swimming Pool .....................................B6 tempted crime of passion, by his own father,
Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson), and jumps into
ÿ Sleeping the sea to escape the enraged Skallagrímur.
7 Bjarg .......................................................D3 Today a sculpture marks a spot near where
8 Borgarnes B&B .....................................A6 she leapt, ultimately to her death: Skalla-
9 Borgarnes Campsite ............................C3 grímur hit her with a stone, and she never
emerged from the water again.
10 Borgarnes HI Hostel .............................B6 W e s t I c e l a n d BA cotrigvai trinbeeyssg&g ðTours
11 Egils's Guesthouse & Apartments......B7 Skallagrímsgarður PARK
12 Hótel Borgarnes ....................................A6
13 Kría Guesthouse ...................................B4 A cairn marks the burial mound of the father
ú Eating and son of saga hero Egill Skallagrímsson.
14 Bónus .................................................... C6
15 Englendingavík ......................................A6 2 Activities & Tours
16 Ok Bistro ................................................C5
Swimming Pool GEOTHERMAL POOL
Settlement Centre Restaurant ... (see 2)
þ Shopping (www.borgarbyggd.is; Þorsteinsgata; adult/child
kr600/250; h6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat
17 Ljómalind ...............................................C5 & Sun) Borgarnes’ beautiful pool, hot-pots
18 Vínbúðin .................................................C5 and steam room are part of a large fjordside

sports complex, and are a wonderful respite.

settlement and the Saga era. The museum is Oddsstaðir HORSE RIDING
divided into two exhibitions; each take about
30 minutes to visit. The Settlement Exhibi- (%435 1413; www.oddsstadir.is; Oddsstaðir farm)
tion covers the discovery and settlement of Multiday riding tours throughout West Ice-
Iceland. Egil’s Saga Exhibition recounts the land with a large herd of horses.
amazing adventures of Egill Skallagrímsson
(the man behind Egil’s Saga; p176) and his z Festivals & Events
family. A detailed multilingual audio guide
is included. Brákarhátíð CULTURAL

This is not your run-of-the-mill Icelandic (www.brakarhatid.is; hlate Jun) A festival in
folk museum: the Settlement Centre offers honour of Þorgerður Brák, a heroine from
deep background into Iceland’s history and Egil’s Saga. Expect town decorations,
flora and fauna, and a firm context in which parades, a concert and a lively, offshore,
to place your Icelandic visit; and Egil’s mud-football match.
Saga is one of the most nuanced and action
packed of the sagas. The centre has placed 4 Sleeping
cairns throughout town marking key sites
from Egil’s Saga. It also has a top-notch Borgarnes HI Hostel HOSTEL €
restaurant. (%695 3366; www.hostel.is; Borgarbraut 11-13; dm
kr4750, d with/without bathroom kr17,900/12,900;
i) This no-frills sleeping spot gets the job
done. Despite the murals and African masks
on the cinder-block walls, it still feels a bit
Borgarfjördur Museum MUSEUM like a high-school dorm. There’s a kr750 dis-

(Safnahús; %433 7200; www.safnahus.is; Bjar- count for HI members.
narbraut 4-6; adult/child kr1000/free; h1-5pm
May-Aug, 1-4pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr) This small
municipal museum has an engaging exhibit Borgarnes Campsite CAMPGROUND €
(Borgarbraut; sites per person kr1200) There’s
on the story of children in Iceland over the a basic fjordside campground on the main
last 100 years. It’s told through myriad pho-
tographs and found items, and though it’s road running up the peninsula.

176

EGIL’S SAGA

Egil’s Saga starts by recounting the tale of Kveldúlfur, grandfather of the warrior-poet
Egill Skallagrímsson, who fled to Iceland during the 9th century after a falling out with
the king of Norway. Kveldúlfur grew gravely ill on the journey, and instructed his son,
Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, to throw his coffin overboard after he died and build the fam-
ily farm wherever it washed ashore – this happened to be at Borg á Mýrum (p177).
Egill Skallagrímsson grew up to be a fierce and creative individual who killed his first
adversary at the age of seven, went on to carry out numerous raids on Ireland, England
and Denmark, and saved his skin many a time by composing eloquent poetry. Learn
about him at Borgarnes’ excellent Settlement Centre (p171).

For those who’d like to go deep into how the saga ties to the landscape around Bor-
garnes, download the detailed Locatify SmartGuide smartphone or iPad app and load
the ‘Borg on the Moors’ tour, which tells the stories of local landmarks from the tale. The
Settlement Centre has marked eight of the sites with cairns, including Brákin (p175),
Borg á Mýrum, and Skallagrímsgarður (p175), the burial mound of the father and
son of saga hero Egill Skallagrímsson.

W e s t I c e l a n d EBaotrignagrnbeysgg ð oEgils’s Guesthouse & shared kitchen and a large wheelchair-
accessible bathroom, plus outdoor seating
Apartments GUESTHOUSE €€ with views and a hot-pot.
(www.egilsguesthouse.is; Brákarbraut 11; d with/
without bathroom incl breakfast kr20,000/17,000,
studios from kr20,400; p) Choose from pris- Hótel Borgarnes HOTEL €€
(%437 1119; http://hotelborgarnes.is; Egilsgata
tine tasteful guest rooms with fjord views 16; s/d incl breakfast kr20,100/23,700; hApr-Nov;
in the Kaupangur Guesthouse to full studi-
os and apartments nearby in the centre of i) Large and relatively characterless, Hótel
Borgarnes has business-style rooms with
town. The guesthouse also has a small cafe. good views that are largely the domain of

oBjarg GUESTHOUSE €€ package tourists.

(%437 1925; [email protected]; Bjarg farm; d with/ Icelandair Hotel Hamar HOTEL, GUESTHOUSE €€€
without bathroom incl breakfast kr20,400/18,300) (%433 6600; www.icehotels.is; Rte 1, Golfvöllurinn;
One of the most beautifully situated places hotel d from kr26,100; i) Hotel Hamar sits on
to stay in the area, this attractive series of a popular golf course 4km north of town.
linked cottages 1.5km north of the centre We found the silver prefab exterior to be off-
overlooks the fjord with the mountains putting, but surprisingly sleek decor and
across the way. It has warm, cosy rooms with mod cons hide within. On-site restaurants.
tasteful wood panelling and crisp white lin-
ens. There are shared guest kitchens, a good 5 Eating
buffet breakfast, a BBQ, spotless bathrooms,
and a turf-roofed cottage that sleeps four. Bónus SUPERMARKET €
(Digranesgata 6; h11am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-
7.30pm Fri, to 6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Bónus is
Borgarnes B&B B&B €€ at the edge of the fjord bridge coming into
(%434 1566, 842 5866; www.borgarnesbb.is;
Skúlagata 21; s/d/q without bathroom incl break- town.
fast kr15,500/18,500/31,900, d with bathroom incl
breakfast kr21,500; i) Go for one of the two oSettlement Centre

rooms on the ground floor with antique Restaurant INTERNATIONAL €€
(%437 1600; www.landnam.is; Brákarbraut 13;
wooden doors and modern fixtures (the rest lunch buffet kr2200, mains kr2200-5000; h10am-
are in the basement); they have fab views of
the bay. Great buffet breakfast. 9pm) The Settlement Centre’s restaurant, in
a light-filled room built into the rock face, is
Kría Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ airy, upbeat and one of the region’s best bets
(%845 4126; www.kriaguesthouse.is; Kveldúlfs-
gata 27; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast for food. Choose from traditional Icelandic
and international eats (lamb, fish stew etc).
kr13,000/18,000) Kría offers two rooms with The lunch buffet (noon to 3pm) is very pop-
great water views in a private home on a
quiet residential street. There’s a pleasant ular. Book ahead for dinner.

177

Ok Bistro ICELANDIC €€ ¨¨Bus 57 to Reykjavík (kr1680, 1½ hours, 12
(%437 1200; www.okbistro.is; Digranesgata 2; Monday to Friday, six Saturday and Sunday).
small courses kr2000-3000, large courses kr3700- ¨¨Bus 57 to Akureyri (kr7980, five hours, two
5000; h11.30am-10pm) Make your way to daily Monday to Friday).
the 3rd floor in a modern business building ¨¨Bus 58 to Stykkishólmur (kr2520, 1½ hours,
to this refined dining room with sweeping two daily, can change to bus 82 at the Vatna-
fjord and mountain views. The emphasis leið crossroads for buses to Hellissandur and
here is on locally sourced ingredients crea- Arnarstapi).
tively prepared. Order tapas style and share ¨¨Bus 59 to Holmavík (kr5040, 2¼ hours,
or go for beautifully presented large mains. one daily Monday, Wednesday, and Friday to
The restaurant is named after the 1200m Sunday).
mountain named Ok. ¨¨Bus 81 to Reykholt (kr840, one hour and 20
minutes, one daily Monday to Friday).
Englendingavík CAFE €€
(%555 1400; www.englendingavik.is; Skúlgata 17; Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
mains kr2450-4500; h11.30am-11pm May-Sep, ¨¨Bus 320 loops from Reykjavík to Borgarnes,
reduced hours Oct-Apr; v) Casual and friend- Kleppjárnsreykir, Deildartunguhver, Reykholt,
ly, with a wonderful waterfront deck, Eng- Hraunfossar, Húsafell, Þingvellir (via the
lendingavík serves good homemade dishes, Kaldidalur Corridor) and back to Reykjavík W e s t I c e l a n d BSA hroorpgupanrdi nbgByogrggðanes
from cakes to full meals of roast lamb or (to Borgarnes kr3500, one daily mid-June to
fresh fish. They have an attached guest- August).
house (doubles with shared bathroom from
kr14,600) in a recently restored building. Sterna (www.sterna.is) services:
¨¨Bus 60 to Akureyri (kr7200, four hours, one
7 Shopping daily late-June to August)
¨¨Bus 60a to Reykjavík (kr1600, one hour, one
daily late-June to August).

oLjómalind MARKET

(Farmers Market; %437 1400; www.ljomalind.is; Around Borganes
Brúartorg 4; h10am-6pm May-Aug, reduced hours
Sep-Apr) S A recent collaboration between There is lots of great-value accommodation
local producers, this packed farmers market around Borgarnes; the Borgarnes tourist in-
sits at the edge of town near the roundabout. formation centre can supply information on
It stocks everything from fresh dairy from more, as can Icelandic Farm Holidays (www.
Erpsstaðir (p195) and organic meat to lo- farmholidays.is).

cally made bath products, handmade wool 1 Sights & Activities
sweaters, jewellery and all manner of imagi-
native collectables. oBorg á Mýrum
LANDMARK

Vínbúðin ALCOHOL (Rock in the Marshes; Rte 54) F The farm,
Borg á Mýrum, just northwest of Borgarnes
(Borgarbraut 58-60, Hyrnu Torg centre; h11am- on Rte 54, is the site where Skallagrímur
6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat Jun-Aug,
reduced hours Sep-May) National liquor-store Kveldúlfsson, Egill’s father, made his farm at
settlement. The farm is named for the large
chain. rock (borg) behind the farmstead (private

88 Information property); you can walk up to the cairn for

Tourist Information Centre (% 437 2214; BORGARNES’ LOCAL LIQUORS
www.west.is; Borgarbraut 58-60; h 9am-
6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Crystalline Reyka Vodka (www.reyka.
Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) West com), found across Iceland, is produced
Iceland’s main tourist information centre; in the in Borgarnes at Iceland’s first distillery.
big shopping centre.
A little family-run brewhouse, Steðji
88 Getting There & Away Brugghús (%896 5001; www.stedji.
com; tasting kr1500; h1-5pm Mon-Sat)
Borgarnes is the major transfer point between 25km north of Borgarnes off Rte 50
Reykjavík and Akureyri, Snæfellsnes and the has a good range of local beers, from
Westfjords. The bus stop (Borgarbraut) is at the strawberry beer to lager and seasonal
cluster of petrol stations (N1, Orkan). beers. Try them all in the brand-new
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: tasting room.

178

views all around. You can also visit the small
cemetery, which includes an ancient grave- Upper Borgarfjörður
stone marked by runes.

Hafnarfjall HIKING Reykholt

The dramatically sheer mountain Haf- Incredibly unassuming, Reykholt (www.
narfjall (844m) rises south across the fjord reykholt.is) is a sleepy outpost (just a few
from Borgarnes. You can climb it (7km) farmsteads really) that on first glance offers
from the trailhead on Rte 1, near the south- few clues to its past as a major medieval
ern base of the causeway into Borgarnes. Be settlement. It was home to one of the most
careful of slippery scree cliffs once you as- important medieval chieftains and scholars,
cend. You’ll get sweeping views from the top. Snorri Sturluson (who was killed here) and
today the main sights revolve around him.
4 Sleeping & Eating
1 Sights
Fossatún HOTEL €
(%433 5800; www.fossatun.is; Rte 50; huts
kr8000, d with/without bathroom kr18,600/12,500; Krauma HOT SPRINGS

i) This family-friendly spot has a guest- (Deildartunguhver; %555 6066; www.krauma.is;
Rte 50; adult/child kr4900/2900; h10am-10pm)
W e s t I c e l a n d SUBlopepreegprairnBbgoyr&gggEaaðrtfijnögr ð ur house, hotel and huts next to a roaring Find Europe’s biggest hot spring, Deildar-
waterfall. The spacious on-site restaurant
(mains kr2000 to kr3800) overlooks the falls tunguhver, about 5km west of Reykholt, just
off Rte 50, near the junction with Rte 518.
and walking paths. Located on the southern Look for billowing clouds of steam, which
branch of Rte 50, about 23km east of Bor-
garnes and 18km southwest of Reykholt. rise from scalding water bubbling from the
ground (180L per second and 100°C!). A
brand-new bathing complex called Krauma
Ensku Húsin GUESTHOUSE €€ offers sleek hot pools, a cold pool and two
(%437 1826; www.enskuhusin.is; Rte 54; d with/
without bathroom incl breakfast kr20,400/16,700) steam rooms. The scalding spring water is
mixed with cold water from nearby Rauðsgil
Located 8km northwest of central Bor- ravine, and no chemicals are added. There’s
garnes off Rte 54, this former fishing lodge
with a dramatic riverside setting has been also a restaurant.

refitted with generous coats of old-school Snorrastofa MUSEUM
charm. Upstairs rooms retain much of the
long-ago feel, and there’s a newer block with (%433 8000; www.snorrastofa.is; kr1200;
h10am-6pm May-Aug, to 5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr)
additional rooms. The owners also offer ac- The interesting medieval study centre Snor-
commodation in a farmhouse 2km away.
rastofa is devoted to celebrated medieval
poet, historian and statesman Snorri Stur-
Skemma Cafe CAFE € luson, and is built on his old farm, where
(Skemman Kaffihús; %868 8626; www.facebook.
com/skemmancafe; Agricultural Museum of Iceland he was brutally slain. The centre houses
displays explaining Snorri’s life and accom-
complex, Havnneyri; snacks 890-1350; hnoon- plishments, including a 1599 edition of his
5pm Jun–mid-Aug) Tucked away in the village
of Havnneyri, in a renovated building that Heimskringla (sagas of the Norse kings).
There’s also material on the laws, literature
dates from 1896, this small cafe has a sunny and society of medieval Iceland, and on the
deck and a range of soups, cakes and coffees.
excavations of the site. You can ask to see the
7 Shopping modern church and reading room upstairs.

oUllarselið CLOTHING, ARTS & CRAFTS Snorralaug SPRING

(%437 0077; www.ull.is; Hvanneyri; h11am-5pm F The most important relic of Snorri’s
Jun-Aug, 1-5pm Thu-Sat Sep-May) Find your farm is Snorralaug (Snorri’s Pool), a circu-
way to off-the-beaten-path village Hvanney- lar, stone-lined pool fed by a hot spring. The
ri, 12km east of Borgarnes, and in among stones at the base of the pool are original
fjordside homes you’ll find this fantastic (10th century), and it is believed that this is
wool centre. Handmade sweaters, scarves, where Snorri bathed. A wood-panelled tun-
hats and blankets share space with skeins nel beside the spring (closed to the public)
of beautiful hand-spun yarn, and interesting leads to the old farmhouse – the site of Snor-
bone and shell buttons. Plus there are nee- ri’s gruesome murder. The pool may be the
dles and patterns to get you started. oldest handmade structure in Iceland.

179

Reykholt Old Church CHURCH A FOODIE TOUR OF THE WEST

F Among the more modern buildings Crisscross Food Tour (%897 6140;
found on Snorri’s ancient farm is a quaint www.crisscross.is) offers food tours
church dating from 1896, which is open to across West Iceland, with farm stops,
the public. A 1040–1260 cistern for a smithy snacks and a meal (full day kr39,500)
was found beneath it in 2001; look for the while taking in local natural sites, from
viewing glass in the floor. waterfalls to lava fields. Pick-up in Rey-
kjavík or Borgarnes.
Icelandic Goat Centre FARM

(%435 1448; www.geitur.is; Rte 523, Háafell; tour
per adult/child kr1500/750; h1-6pm Jun-Aug)
Farm workers walk you through pretty fields Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services:
with endangered Icelandic goats; coffee or ¨¨Bus 320 loops from Reykjavík to Borgarnes,
tea included. The farm’s most famous resi- Kleppjárnsreykir, Deildartunguhver, Reykholt,
dent is Casanova, a bright-eyed goat who Hraunfossar, Húsafell, Þingvellir (via the
had a starring turn in Game of Thrones Kaldidalur Corridor) and back to Reykjavík
(running from a dragon). Find it on dirt- (to Reykholt kr7000, one daily mid-June to
road Rte 523, northeast of Reykholt. August).

4 Sleeping & Eating Húsafell W e s t I c e l a n d SUBlopepreegprairnBbgoyr&gggEaaðrtfijnögr ð ur

Reykholt has a simple restaurant at its hotel. Tucked into an emerald, river-crossed valley,
Head to Borgarnes for much better choice with the river Kaldá on one side and a dra-
and to stock up on groceries. matic lava field on the other, Húsafell’s, with
its encampment of summer cottages and its
Steindórsstaðir GUESTHOUSE € chic hotel, is a popular outdoor retreat for
(%435 1227; www.steindorsstadir.is; Rte Reykjavík residents, and the main access
517, Reykholtsdalur; s/d/tr without bathroom point for nearby Langjökull glacier.
kr10,000/14,500/18,000) Set on a farm in
the rolling fields about 2km from Reykholt 1 Sights
proper, this sweet guesthouse offers clean,
cosy rooms with countryside views. There’s Hraunfossar WATERFALL

a shared kitchen, a hot tub (with views, too!) (Rte 518) The name of this spectacular
waterfall translates to ‘Lava Field Waterfall’
and friendly owners. Some sleeping-bag ac- because the crystalline water streams out
commodation (kr5000).
from below the lava field all around. Find
the turn-off on the north side of Rte 518,
Fosshótel Reykholt HOTEL €€
(%562 4000, 435 1260; www.fosshotel.is; d incl
breakfast from kr21,100; pi) The only hotel 6.5km west of Húsafell.

in Reykholt proper, the Fosshótel is a bland 4 Sleeping & Eating
block with basic motel-style rooms, a couple
of hot-pots and a restaurant. The Húsafell complex has a simple bistro
with a mini-mart and there’s a gourmet res-
Hverinn Restaurant INTERNATIONAL € taurant in the hotel. Borgarnes is the largest
(%571 4433; www.hverinn.is; Rte 50, Kleppjáms- nearby city for more choices.

reykir; mains kr1600-2500; h10.30am-9pm May- Gamli Bær GUESTHOUSE €
Oct) Simple eats from daily soups to burgers
are on offer at this large roadside restaurant (Old Farmhouse; %895 1342; sveitasetrid@sim
net.is; Rte 518; d with/without bathroom from
with friendly staff. Also has basic groceries kr14,000/13,000; hmid-May–Sep) Renovated
and a campground (kr1500 per adult) and
guesthouse (double with shared bathroom 1908 farmhouse with shared or private bath-
rooms; just east up the valley from Húsafell,
kr14,500). Find it about 5km west of Reyk- on Rte 518.
holt near the junction of Rtes 518 and 50.
Húsafell CAMPGROUND €
88 Getting There & Away (Ferðaþjónustan Húsafelli; %435 1556; www.
husafell.is; sites per adult/child kr1500/800) The
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: Húsafell vacation resort is a one-stop shop,
¨¨Bus 81 to Borgarnes (kr840, one hour and 20 with campsites and summer houses, plus a
minutes, one daily Monday to Friday). minimarket, bistro (mains kr2000 to kr2700;

open 11am to 9pm) and outd­oor geothermal

180 ic, 2km-long lava tube connected to Stefán-
swimming pool (adult/child kr1200/300; open shellir, a second tunnel about half the size.
10am to 10pm daily June to September, reduced You can explore Surtshellir on your own if
hours October to May). you have caving gear (helmet, torch etc).

oHótel Húsafell HOTEL €€€
(%435 1551; www.hotelhusafell.com; d incl break-
fast from kr39,500; p) The star of the show in Langjökull & Kaldidalur Corridor

the Húsafell vacation village is this chic and Southeast of Húsafell, the absolutely incred-
contemporary new hotel, offering spacious, ible Kaldidalur valley skirts the edge of a
comfortable rooms. Art is the original work series of glaciers, offering incredible views
of local artist Páll Guðmundsson, and the of the Langjökull ice cap (the second larg-
outstanding restaurant (mains lunch kr2000 est glacier in Iceland) and, in clear weather,
to kr4000, dinner kr4500 to kr7000) serves cre- Eiríksjökull, Okjökull and Þórisjökull. The
ative, Icelandic cuisine showcasing superb Kaldidalur Corridor, also simply known as
ingredients and refined presentation. unsurfaced Rte 550, is slow but dramatic go-
ing (mountain ice, barren rock), and often
W e s t I c e l a n d BGU ope ptretgrianrBgboTyrhggegarðrefj&öArwðauyr 88 Getting There & Away fogged in in summer. It links south to the
Golden Circle, offering the option to create
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: an extended loop from Reykjavík. The pri-
¨¨Bus 320 loops from Reykjavík to Borgarnes, mary way to see the Kaldidalur Corridor is
Kleppjárnsreykir, Deildartunguhver, Reykholt, with your own wheels or on the Reykjavík
Hraunfossar, Húsafell, Þingvellir (via the Excursions bus, but tours are available.
Kaldidalur Corridor) and back to Reykjavík (to
Húsafell kr8000, one daily mid-June to August). 1 Sights

Hallmundarhraun oLangjökull GLACIER

East of Húsafell, along Rte 518, the vast, bar- The Langjökull ice cap is the second larg-
ren lava flows of Hallmundarhraun make est glacier in Iceland, and the closest major
up a wonderful eerie landscape dotted with glacier to Reykjavík. It’s accessed from the
gigantic lava tubes. These long, tunnel-like Kaldidalur or Kjölur tracks, and its closest
caves are formed by flows of molten lava be- access village in West Iceland is Húsafell.
neath a solid lava crust, and it’s possible to Do not attempt to drive up onto the glacier
visit several of them. yourself. Tours depart from Reykjavík or
Húsafell: Mountaineers of Iceland (p71)
If you’ve got a 4WD, it’s also possible to offers snowmobiling, and Dog Sledding
continue into the interior along Rte F578 (p71) has summertime dog-sledding
beyond Surtshellir, through the lakes at Ar- tours.
narvatnsheiði, and on to Hvammstangi.
Note that Rte F578 is usually only open sev- oInto the Glacier ICE CAVE
en weeks a year; see www.road.is.
(Langjökull Ice Cave; %578 2550; www.into
theglacier.is) This enormous (300m-long)
1 Sights man-made tunnel and series of caves head

oViðgelmir – the Cave LAVA TUBE into Langjökull glacier at 1260m above sea
level. The glistening, LED-lit tunnel and
(%783 3600; www.thecave.is; tour per adult/child caves opened in 2015 and contain exhibi-
from kr6500/free) The easiest lava tube to vis-
it, and the largest in Iceland, 1100-year-old, tions, a cafe and even a small chapel for
those who want to tie the knot inside a
1.5km-long Viðgelmir is located on private glacier. Tours can be had from Húsafell or
property near the farmstead Fljótstunga. It
sparkles with ever-changing rock formations the glacier edge (adult/child kr19,500/free),
from Reykjavík (kr29,900), or on many com-
and has a stable walkway within it on which bo tours, such as snowmobiling, by helicop-
tours are conducted. Check the website for
tour times; helmet and torch included. ter, or including the Golden Circle.
A maximum of 80 visitors at a time can
Surtshellir LAVA TUBE travel up the glacier by monster truck, then

F Just a bit to the southeast of Fljótstun- have about 45 minutes touring the glacier.
ga on Rte 518, a bright yellow sign marks the
turn-off to Arnarvatnsheiði along Rte F578 4 Sleeping & Eating
(rental cars not allowed). Follow the bumpy
track for 7km to reach Surtshellir, a dramat- Head to Húsafell, Reykholt or Borgarnes for
accommodation.

1 Sights & Activities 181

You’ll find food in Húsafell, Reykholt or oBreiðafjörður FJORD
Borgarnes; the Ice Cave base camp has just
a tiny cafe. Stykkishólmur’s jagged peninsula pushes
north into stunning Breiðafjörður, a broad
88 Getting There & Away waterway separating the Snæfellsnes from
the looming cliffs of the distant Westfjords.
Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) services: According to local legend, there are only two
¨¨Bus 320 loops from Reykjavík to Borgarnes, things in the world that cannot be counted:
Kleppjárnsreykir, Deildartunguhver, Reykholt, the stars in the night sky and the craggy
Hraunfossar, Húsafell, Þingvellir (via the islets in the bay. You can count on epic vis-
Kaldidalur Corridor) and back to Reykjavík (one tas and a menagerie of wild birds (puffins,
daily mid-June to August). eagles, guillemots etc). Boat trips, includ-
ing whale watching and puffin viewing,
Otherwise, come on a tour. While you can drive are available from Stykkishólmur, Grunda-
the roads with a sanctioned vehicle (check with rfjörður or Ólafsvík.
your rental company), you should never go up on
the glacier without a guide. oNorska Húsið MUSEUM

SNÆFELLSNES (Norwegian House; %433 8114; www.norskahusid. W e s t I c e l a n d GS nte ytæktfikenilgslhTsóhnlemsruePr&enAiwnasuyla
PENINSULA is; Hafnargata 5; adult/child kr800/free; h11am-
6pm Jun-Aug, 2-5pm Tue-Thu Sep-May) Styk-
Sparkling fjords, dramatic volcanic peaks, kishólmur’s quaint maritime charm comes
sheer sea cliffs, sweeping golden beaches from the cluster of wooden warehouses,
and crunchy lava flows make up the diverse shops and homes orbiting the town’s har-
and fascinating landscape of the 100km- bour. Most date back about 150 years. One
long Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The area is of the most interesting (and oldest) is the
crowned by the glistening ice cap Snæfells- Norska Húsið, now the regional museum.
jökull, immortalised in Jules Verne’s Jour- Built by trader and amateur astronomer
ney to the Centre of the Earth. Good roads Árni Thorlacius in 1832, the house has been
and regular buses mean that it’s an easy trip skilfully restored and displays a wonder-
from Reykjavík, offering a cross section of fully eclectic selection of local antiquities.
the best Iceland has to offer in a very com- On the 2nd floor you visit Árni’s home, an
pact region. upper-class 19th-century residence, decked
out with his original wares.
Stykkishólmur, on the populated north-
ern coast, is the region’s largest town and a oSúgandisey ISLAND
logical base. Moving west along the northern
coast, you’ll pass smaller townships. On the The basalt island Súgandisey features a
western part of the peninsula, Snæfellsjökull scenic lighthouse and grand views across
National Park encompasses not only its gla- Breiðafjörður. Reach it via the stone cause-
cier but bird sanctuaries and lava fields. The way from Stykkishólmur harbour.
quiet southern coast has several good horse
farms beneath towering crags. Volcano Museum MUSEUM

Stykkishólmur (Eldfjallasafn; %433 8154; www.eldfjallasafn.is;
Aðalgata 8; adult/child kr1000/free; h11am-5pm)
POP 1110 The Volcano Museum, housed in the town’s
old cinema, is the brainchild of vulcanolo-
The charming town of Stykkishólmur (www. gist Haraldur Sigurðsson, and features art
visitstykkisholmur.is), the largest on the depicting volcanoes, plus a small collection
Snæfellsnes Peninsula, is built up around of interesting lava (‘magma bombs’!) and ar-
a natural harbour tipped by a basalt islet. tefacts from eruptions.
It’s a picturesque place with a laid-back at-
titude and a sprinkling of brightly coloured Library of Water ART MUSEUM
buildings from the late 19th century. With
a comparatively good choice of accommoda- (Vatnasafn; %857 1221; www.libraryofwater.is;
tion and restaurants, and handy transport Bókhlöðustígur 17; adult/child kr500/free; h1-6pm
links, Stykkishólmur makes an excellent Jun-Aug, by appointment Sep-May) For relaxing
base for exploring the region. There’s free views of town and bay, head up the hill to
wi-fi throughout the whole town. the Library of Water. This window-lined
space showcases an installation by Ameri-
can artist Roni Horn (b 1955). Light reflects

W e s t I c e l a n d S itngyæhkftkeisls&lhsAóncletmsiuvPirte in iesnsula 182

Snæfellsnes Peninsula e# 0 20 km
0 10 miles

Flatey (18km);
Brjánslækur (30km)

f#
#\Stykkishólmur
Kolgrafarfjörður Öxney
Brokey
D
Helgafell Ólafsey

Breiðafjörður Hraunsvík (73m)R D

Bjarnarhöfn Búðardalur
Shark (50km)
Museum #\Skjöldur
Melrakkaey
777â# Vatnaleið #\
·/576 R Drápuhlíðarfjall
Látravík Grundarfjörður

·/Búlandshöfði #\ Selvallavatn (527m) 54
Hraunsfjörður Kerlingarfjall
77766777/··/ ·/44466444·/·/ 77·/·/·/ 77 7 7/· 7·/ DÖV(SbaDnvtiödjrnúdrvspt#õe#õBbcuarGl#eollðioóNrfuraffungsfetDruvs/)sn#æ5rssíhSÙ#7eikak9rt5asnváa7xSSdí4ulhkaRSkuHaNnHórÙ#aanä#rx#æóaelruÙ#æhslðtlðaböli5sfoi÷#7hhjvlseMaln2íóóslrklaala#sælg#\aalljnFaörPÜ#rdorkaVrRruY#uKIiravfnkrlBlatlg#õun#\ðúS(Ej#æksa1iryRnRn4khslfdætein4ueeLfSlsi6flflnótMlheo(imasn5rls5ódpól2s7da)slða4ll6jruuFöfmare5kln7læc#\)ul0g#ækÓlRalRurlaaSr#\#æuföHsðn#\vefgGíeAlKklhlandraFetnarskmlBóSlragliðrertrbjaeáotsurittrhðuØ#raíearpiðvi5ií75k454B4Buðúað(8haM8krRaæmleuRlt)intfuerll#\HBBe(úú9lgðð8Rrai6Kirvnm(ií4drk)k6uRj3rumfeL)lý#\l sGØ#uGrhuuónelldsÞtaohrrogfjuHReöisorreðsffuÿ#erllKerlingarskarðR(585m)Ljósufjöll
Hraunsfjarðarvatn R
Miðhraun
Baulárvallavatn #\
#\
56
Vegamót
R Hólsfjall #\Stakkhamar

Harfursfell Gerðuberg
(722m) #æ
R
54

Ø# Borgarnes (65km);
Ytri- Reykjavík (137km)
Tunga

Þúfubjarg Faxaflói Haffjörður

66(bird cliffs)

183

and refracts through 24 glass pillars filled Fransiskus Hotel HOTEL €€
with Icelandic glacier water. (%422 1101; www.fransiskus.is; Austurga-
ta 7; s with/without bathroom incl breakfast
Stykkishólmskirkja CHURCH from kr17,900/12,900, d/f incl breakfast from

(%438 1288; www.stykkisholmskirkja.is; h10am- kr29,100/34,400; p) This new hotel in a ren-
5pm) Stykkishólmur’s futuristic church, de-
signed by Jón Haraldsson, has a sweeping ovated wing of a Catholic monastery and
hospital complex offers well-maintained
bell tower that looks like a whale vertebra. modern rooms with private bathrooms and
The interior features hundreds of suspended
lights and a painting of the Madonna and flat-screen TVs.

child floating in the night sky. Höfðagata Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€
(%694 6569; Höfðagata 11; d with/without bath-
Stykkishólmur Swimming room incl breakfast from kr23,000/18,000, apt

Pool GEOTHERMAL POOL, HOT-POT kr25,000) This tidy, well-run guesthouse of-

(Sundlaug Stykkishóms; %433 8150; Borgarbraut fers five small but well-appointed double
4; adult/child kr800/220; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu,
to 7pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, reduced rooms with a shared refrigerator, and one
fully equipped apartment.
hours Sep-May) Water slides and hot-pots
are the highlights at the town’s geothermal oHótel Egilsen W e s t I c e l a n d S nlteyæekfpkeiinlslghsónlemsuPren i nsula
swimming pool, in the municipal sports BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
(%554 7700; www.egilsen.is; Aðalgata 2; s/d
complex. kr24,000/30,000; i) One of our favourite lit-
tle inns in Iceland, this boutique hotel fills
T Tours a lovingly restored timber house that creaks

Seatours BOATING when winds howl off the fjord. The friendly
owner has outfitted cosy (tiny!) rooms with
(Sæferðir; %433 2254; www.seatours.is; Smið- traditional woollen blankets and original
justígur 3; h8am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-
5pm mid-Sep–mid-May) Various boat tours, artwork. Complimentary iPads and a home-
made breakfast (kr2500) sweeten the deal.
including the much-touted ‘Viking Sushi’, a
one- or two-hour boat ride (kr5900/7370)
taking in islands, bird colonies (puffins until Fosshotel Stykkishólmur HOTEL €€€
(%430 2100; www.fosshotel.is; Borgarbraut 8; s/d/
August) and basalt formations. A net brings tr incl breakfast kr26,200/30,500/37,800; i) The
up shellfish to devour raw. Also offers dinner
cruises and runs the Baldur Ferry to Flatey. best rooms in this jarring silver box up on a
hill have super bay and island views. Rooms
Partners with Reykjavík Excursions for Rey- are motel-basic and not all have wi-fi.
kjavík pick-up. On-site shop and cafe. Chil-
dren under 15 are free.
5 Eating
4 Sleeping

Harbour Hostel HOSTEL € Meistarinn FAST FOOD €
(www.facebook.com/meistarinnsth; Aðalgata; hot
(%517 5353; www.harbourhostel.is; Hafnargata dogs kr540-600, sub sandwiches kr1400-1600;
4; dm/q without bathroom from kr4400/23,000)
This simple harbourside hostel offers some hnoon-8pm Jun-Aug) This friendly pýlsuvag-
ninn (wiener wagon) has the best hot dogs
of the town’s best cheap lodging, with dorm in town. Each menu item is named after
rooms (four-, eight- and 12-bed dorms), dou-
bles and family rooms. someone from Stykkishólmur.

Campground CAMPGROUND € Nesbrauð BAKERY €
(%438 1830; Nesvegur 1; snacks kr400-1200;
(%438 1075; [email protected]; Aðalgata 27; sites h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun) On
per adult/child kr1300/free; hMay-early Sep)
Basic; managed by the golf course nearby. the road into town, this bakery is a good
choice for a quick breakfast or lunch. Stock
Bænir og Brauð GUESTHOUSE €€ up on sugary confections such as kleinur
(%820 5408; www.baenirogbraud.is; Laufásvegur
1; d kr19,600-29,900) This snug, immaculate (traditional twisty doughnuts) or ástar pun-
gur (‘love balls’; fried dough and raisins).
house sits along the fjord, and some rooms
have lovely views of the bay. Greta, the kind- Bónus SUPERMARKET €
(Borgarbraut 1; h11am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-
ly owner, also owns Hótel Egilsen down 7.30pm Fri, to 6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Groceries;
the road. Breakfast costs kr2300; there is a
shared refrigerator and coffee maker. near the swimming pool.

184 e#0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
Stykkishólmur B C D
A Breiðafjörður (400m);
Flatey (33km);
Brjánslækur (45km)
abakki Súgandisey #æ2

1 fðagSatkaólast¡gur BókhlSöilðfuusrtíggatura Df# 1
Landey ÞvervegurBaldur Ferry
ur Causeway

SkúlagataLandeyjarsund
Tangagata
HafnargaStæabrÿ#aut ú# 6 Smiðjustígur

#

3 â# 12 20

Reitarvegur 1 â# ÿ# 11
Norska 14 ú#17
2 Húsið 19 ú# Austurgÿ#ata 2

Frúarstígur þ# â#

22 5

W e s t I c e l a n d S nht yoækpfkpeiilsnlhgsónlemsuPren i nsula 13 21 Maðkavík
4
ÿ# ú# Ü# Borgarflöt

3 Lágholt Silfurgata 24HAþ#öðalgaú#ta231L#þ5aufásveg ÿ# 8 3
Sund Árnatún
16

ú#

ã# Borgarbraut
7
Nesvegur
18 ú# Viewing Disc
ö# ÿ#

4 NesÁksinkninn Ásklifarás Golf 10 4
D
ò# S# 9 Course
›# Grundarfjörður (45km); Ø#
DBorgarnes (93km)

ABC

oNarfeyrarstofa ICELANDIC €€ Sjávarpakkhúsið ICELANDIC €€
(%438 1800; Hafnargata 2; mains kr2600-3500;
(%438 1119; www.narfeyrarstofa.is; Aðalgata 3; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat Jun-Aug,
mains kr2000-5000; h11.30am-midnight Mon-
Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun May-Sep, reduced hours Oct- reduced hours Sep-May) This old fish-packing
house has been transformed into a wood-
Apr; v) This charming restaurant is the lined cafe-bar with harbour-front outdoor
Snæfellsnes’ darling fine-dining destina-
tion. Book a table on the second floor for seating. The speciality is blue-shell mussels
straight from the bay, but it’s also a great
the romantic lighting of antique lamps and daytime hang-out. On weekend evenings it’s
harbour views. Ask your waiter about the
portraits on the wall; the building has an a popular bar where locals come to jam.

interesting history. Skúrinn INTERNATIONAL €€

Plássið ICELANDIC €€ (%544 4004; Þvervegur 2; mains kr1700-2800;
hnoon-11pm) Casual spot for grabbing a piz-
(%436 1600; www.plassid.is; Frúarstígur 1; mains za, burger, nachos, fish and chips, and beer,
kr2500-5000; h11.30am-10pm May-Sep; vc)
This bistro-style old-town building is a with a nice deck for sunny days.

perfect family-friendly spot, with elegant 7 Shopping
touches (wine glasses, mod furnishings)
and friendly service. Using local ingredients,
it serves up a full run of regional specials, Leir 7 ARTS & CRAFTS

and the catch of the day is usually delicious, (www.leir7.is; Aðalgata 20; h2-5pm Mon-Fri, to
4pm Sat) Artist Sigriður Erla produces table-
paired with salad or barley risotto. Local ware from the fjord’s dark clay at this pot-
beers, too. New management took over in tery studio in the heart of town. There’s also
late 2016; we’ll see if they can keep it going! woodcraft.

185

Stykkishólmur 12 Harbour Hostel ........................................C2
13 Höfðagata Guesthouse...........................C3
æ Top Sights 14 Hótel Egilsen ............................................C2
1 Norska Húsið ........................................... C2 ú Eating
2 Súgandisey ............................................... D1 15 Bónus ........................................................C3
16 Meistarinn ................................................B3
æ Sights 17 Narfeyrarstofa .........................................C2
3 Library of Water ...................................... C2 18 Nesbrauð ..................................................B4
4 Stykkishólmskirkja ................................. D3 19 Plássið.......................................................C2
5 Volcano Museum .................................... C2 20 Sjávarpakkhúsið ......................................C2
21 Skúrinn......................................................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours þ Shopping
6 Seatours................................................... D2 22 Gallerí Lundi .............................................C2
7 Stykkishólmur Swimming Pool............. C4 23 Leir 7..........................................................C3
24 Vínbúðin....................................................B3
ÿ Sleeping
8 Bænir og Brauð ....................................... C3 W e s t I c e l a n d SGnte ytæktfikenilgslhTsóhnlemsruePr&etnAoiwnGasruyulnadar fj ö r ð ur
9 Campground ........................................... B4
10 Fosshotel Stykkishólmur ....................... C4
11 Fransiskus Hotel ..................................... D2

Gallerí Lundi ARTS & CRAFTS

(Aðalgata4a; h12.30-6pmMay-Sep) Local handi- Stykkishólmur to
crafts sold by friendly villagers. Also offers Grundarfjörður
coffee.
The scenic stretch between Stykkishólmur
Vínbúðin ALCOHOL and Grundarfjörður is filled with myth and
mystique, from spiritual mountains to Saga-
(Aðalgata 24; h2-6pm Mon-Thu, 1-7pm Fri, 11am- storied lava fields.
2pm Sat Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Across
the main road from Bónus.
1 Sights
88 Getting There & Away
Helgafell MOUNTAIN
BOAT
Baldur Ferry (% 433 2254; www.seatours. About 5km south of Stykkishólmur, the holy
is) Car ferry between Stykkishólmur and mountain Helgafell (73m) was once venerat-
Brjánslækur in the Westfjords (2½ hours) ed by worshippers of the god Þór. Although
via Flatey (1½ hours). From early June to late quite small, the mountain was so sacred in
August there are daily departures from Styk- Saga times that elderly Icelanders would
kishólmur at 9am and 3.45pm, returning from seek it out near the time of their death. To-
Brjánslækur at 12.15pm and 7pm. During the day, locals believe that wishes are granted to
rest of the year there is only one ferry per day, those who climb the mount.
leaving Stykkishólmur at 3pm (no boats on
Saturdays), returning at 6pm. Berserkjahraun LAVA FIELD

Adult/child fares to Brjánslækur are kr5460/ About 15km west of the intersection of Rte
free. Reserve ahead for vehicles (additional 54 and Rte 56 lies the dramatic, spiky lava
kr5460/7910 per car/camper). Round trip from field at Berserkjahraun (Berserkers’ lava
Stykkishólmur to Flatey costs kr7480. Check field). Crowned by looming mountains, this
online for concession and winter fares. lunar landscape gets its name from Eyrbyg-
gja Saga.

BUS Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum MUSEUM
You can get to Reykjavík (2½ hours) by changing
in Borgarnes. All service is greatly reduced in (%438 1581; www.bjarnarhofn.is; Bjarnarhöfn
winter. farm; adult/child kr1100/free; h9am-6pm Jun-
Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) The farmstead
Strætó (www.bus.is) services from the bus at Bjarnarhöfn is the region’s leading pro-
stop (Aðalgata) at the Olís petrol station: ducer of hákarl (fermented shark meat), a
¨¨Bus 58 to Borgarnes (kr2520, 1½ hours, two traditional Icelandic dish. The museum has
daily). exhibits on the history of this culinary cu-
riosity, along with the family’s fishing boats
¨¨Bus 82 to Arnarstapi via Grundarfjörður– and processing tools. A video explains the
Ólafsvík–Rif–Hellissandur (kr2100, 1¼ hours, butchering and fermenting procedure.
two daily June to mid-September). The rest
of the year it only goes from Stykkishólmur to
Hellissandur four days per week.

186

W e s t I c e l a n d SGinrgæuhnftdesalrlsfjnöesr ðPuern i nsula FLATEY

Of Breiðafjörður’s innumerable islands, little Flatey (literally ‘Flat Island’) is the only one
with year-round inhabitants. In the 11th century Flatey (www.flatey.com) was home to a
monastery, and today the appealing island is a popular stopover for travellers heading to
(or from) the Westfjords. Push the slow-mo button on life, and enjoy a windswept after-
noon amid brightly coloured houses and swooping Arctic terns.

Sleeping & Eating

Læknishús (%438 1476; s without bathroom kr9000; hJun-Aug) Læknishús is about
400m from the pier and offers simple farm accommodation in summer. Sleeping-bag
accommodation kr4000.

Krákuvör (%438 1451; sites per person kr1200; hJun-Aug) One of the island’s farms,
about 300m from the pier, Krákuvör offers camping.

Hótel Flatey (%555 7788; www.hotelflatey.is; s/d/tr without bathroom incl breakfast
kr23,900/27,500/36,900; hJun-Aug) Hótel Flatey has some of the most charming, nook-
like rooms in Iceland, and the on-site restaurant (lunch mains kr2200 to kr3100, dinner
mains kr5000, three-course menu kr9300 to kr9700; open noon to 9pm) is fantastic as well. On
some weekends, slip down into the basement for live evening jam sessions with locals.

Getting There & Away
To cross Breiðafjörður aboard the Baldur Ferry (p185) and stop off in Flatey, you must
take the first ferry of the day, disembark, and board the second daily ferry across, or one
the next day (boats only pause on the island for around five minutes as they cross the
fjord). No cars are allowed on Flatey, so for those taking a car to the Westfjords, it is pos-
sible to send it on across (no additional charge) while staying behind in Flatey.

To visit Flatey as a day trip from Stykkishólmur, take either boat during summer, dis-
embark at Flatey and catch the ferry as it returns to Stykkishólmur. Note that the twice-
per-day ferry service only runs in summer. You can also visit with local tour companies.

Find the museum off Rte 54 on a turnout 1 Sights
from Rte 577, on the fjordside, northeastern
edge of Bjarnarhafnarfjall (575m). oKirkjufell MOUNTAIN

Greenland shark, which is used to make Kirkjufell (463m), guardian of Grunda-
hákarl, is poisonous if eaten fresh; fermen- rfjörður’s northwestern vista, is said to
tation neutralises the toxin. Note that Green- be one of the most photographed spots in
land shark is classified as near threatened. Iceland. You’ll see Ben Stiller skateboard-
ing past in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty
Each visit to the museum comes with a (2013). Ask staff at the Saga Centre (p186)
bracing nibble of hákarl, accompanied by if you want to climb it, they may be able to
Brennivín (aka ‘black death’) schnapps. Ask get you a guide. Two spots involving a rope
about the drying house out back. You might climb make it dangerous to scale when wet
find hundreds of dangling shark slices dry- or without local knowledge.
ing; the last step in the process. Kirkjufell is backed by the roaring water-
falls, Kirkjufellsfoss; more camera fodder.
Grundarfjörður
Saga Centre MUSEUM
POP 860
(Eyrbyggja Heritage Centre; %438 1881; www.
Spectacularly set on a dramatic bay, little grundarfjordur.is; Grundargata 35; h9am-5pm)
Grundarfjörður is backed by waterfalls The Saga Centre is a tourist information
and surrounded by ice-capped peaks often centre, cafe (p187), library, internet point
shrouded in cottony fog. More prefab than and small museum rolled into one. The
wooden, the town feels like a typical Icelan- museum displays an old fishing boat and
dic fishing community, but the tourist facili- gear, plus a children’s toy collection. It sells
ties are good and the surrounding landscape national park maps, and has a free walking
can’t be beat, with its iconic Kirkjufell. map of the area.

T Tours 187

Hótel Framnes HOTEL €€
(%438 6893; www.hotelframnes.is; Nesvegur 8;
oLáki Tours WHALE WATCHING, WILDLIFE s/d incl breakfast from kr17,100/24,000; i) This

(%546 6808; www.lakitours.com; Nesvegur 5) basic dockside inn has a spacious lobby, and
Láki Tours has excellent fishing, puffin-
spotting and whale-watching trips from small rooms, some with views. A nearby
Grundarfjörður or Ólafsvík. The puffin tour building holds the least costly rooms.
(adult/child kr5900/free; June to August)
from Grundarfjörður goes to wonderful 5 Eating
basalt island, Melrakkaey, with colonies of
puffins, kittiwakes and other seabirds, and Emil’s Cafe CAFE €
super views of Kirkjufell. Whale-watching (Grundargata 35, Saga Centre; mains kr1190-1950;
tours (adult/child kr9400/free) depend on h9am-9pm) In the Saga Centre, this cheery
the season, but cover the best whale terrain cafe is tops for cappuccinos, hot soup and
in the region; orca, fin, sperm, blue, minke sandwiches.
and humpback whales are all possibilities.
Meistarinn FAST FOOD €
Check online for tours and departure (hot dogs kr540-600, sandwiches kr700-1600;
points. Its Grundarfjörður office has a cafe hJun-Sep) The Meistarinn hotdog wagon
(mains kr1600 to kr2500; open 9am to 9pm) has menu items named after members of
with a good buffet lunch, and a shop. the Danish royal family. W e s t I c e l a n d TGS noruæurnfsdealrlsfjnöesr ðPuern i nsula

Snæfellsnes Excursions BUS TOUR Samkaup SUPERMARKET €
(Grundargata 38; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
(%616 9090; www.sfn.is; tours from kr10,000) Day 8pm Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Small
trips around the major sites of Snæfellsnes
Peninsula, from Stykkishólmur, Grunda- supermarket and N1 petrol station.ith a grill.

rfjörður and Ólafsvík. Offers Reykjavík pick- oBjargarsteinn Mathús SEAFOOD €€
up (from kr17,000 including a boat trip).
(%438 6770; www.facebook.com/Bjargarsteinn
restaurant; Sólvellir 15; mains kr2900-4000; h2-
4 Sleeping 10pm Jun-Aug, 5-8pm Sep-May, closed mid-Dec–
mid-Jan) This new restaurant is operated by
Grundarfjörður has a good collection of seasoned restaurateurs who have created a
guesthouses and rental apartments, as lively menu of Icelandic dishes, with an em-
well as a campground; check www.grundar phasis on seafood and everything fresh. Des-
fjordur.is for a full list. See Icelandic Farm serts are delicious, and pretty, too. The sea-
Holidays (www.farmholidays.is) for accom- sonal menu is always changing, and views to
modation on nearby headlands, such as Kirkjufell are stupendous.
Suður-Bár.

Grund GUESTHOUSE € RúBen INTERNATIONAL €€
(%438 6446; Grundargata 59; mains kr2100-4900;
(%840 6100; www.resthouse.is; Rte 54; d without h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm
bathroom kr14,500) This well-renovated little
family-run guesthouse sits 2.8km east of Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) This joint
is popular with locals for its friendly staff,
Grundarfjörður, and has cosy rooms, some no-nonsense diner-style atmosphere, and
with sea or mountain views. Guests share a
kitchen, living room and laundry. broad menu: from pasta to soup, burgers,
fish and chips or lamb.
Grundarfjörður HI Hostel HOSTEL €
(%562 6533; www.hostel.is; Hlíðarvegur 15; 88 Information
dm from kr4750, d with/without bathroom from
kr17,900/12,900; i) This outfit features Saga Centre (p186) has tourist information
everything from prim dorm rooms to smart, and local maps.

apartment-style lodging. Reception is in the 88 Getting There & Away
red house, while accommodation is spread
across several buildings in town. HI mem- Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
bers get a discount of kr750. ¨¨Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Arnarstapi
(kr840 to Stykkishólmur, two daily June to
H5 Apartments APARTMENT €€ mid-September, the rest of the year four days
(%898 0325; Hrannarstígur 5; apt kr23,700) per week and only as far as Hellissandur). It
Large modern apartments in the centre of runs via Vatnaleið (crossroads Rtes 54 and 56)
town. Book via Airbnb or booking.com. and Ólafsvík–Rif–Hellissandur; stops at the N1
station in Grundarfjörður.

188

WISHING AT HELGAFELL

It is commonly believed that those who ascend humble Helgafell (p185) will be granted
three wishes, provided that the requests are made with a pure heart. However, you must
follow three important steps to make your wishes come true:
Step 1 Start at the grave of Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir, heroine of an ancient local saga.
Step 2 Walk up to the Tótt (the chapel ruins), not uttering a single word, and (like
Orpheus leaving Hades), never looking back.
Step 3 Once at the chapel ruins, you must face east while wishing. And never tell your
wishes to anyone, or they won’t come true.

Ólafsvík Campground CAMPGROUND €
(%433 6929; www.snb.is; Dalbraut; sites per adult/
POP 960 child kr1000/free; hJun-Aug) Local camp-
ground with showers and playground.
W e s t I c e l a n d SÓinlgaæhfftsesvlílksnes P en i nsula Quiet, workaday Ólafsvík won’t win any
hearts with its fish-processing plant. Al- Hringhótel Ólafsvík HOTEL €€
though it’s the oldest trading town in the (%436 1650; www.hringhotels.is; Ólafsbraut 20;
country (it was granted a trading licence d & studio kr29,100; i) This large hotel has
in 1687), few of the original buildings sur- merely functional rooms in its main build-
vive. For visitors it’s best as a jumping-off ing, but the annexe across the street has
point for whale watching or a quick stop at good studios with kitchenettes, some with
Hraun for a meal. sea views. Popular with tour groups.

Some Láki Tours (p187) whale-watch- Hraun INTERNATIONAL €€
ing trips depart from here: the waters off- (%431 1030; Grundarbraut 2; mains kr2000-5000;
shore and west to the tip of the peninsula hnoon-10pm Jun-Aug, some weekends Sep-May)
are the region’s best for whale sightings.

1 Sights This upbeat establishment on the main road
cheerfully fills a blond-wood building with
a broad front deck. The only gig in town be-
Steypa GALLERY sides fast food, it does excellent fresh mus-

(%866 8358; www.steypaphoto.com; Norður- sels, burgers and fish, and has beer on tap.
tangi; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug) F Peruse an
interesting photography exhibition in the
former Marine Museum (Sjávarsafn). 88 Information

Ólafsvíkurkirkja CHURCH Ólafsvík is the largest settlement in the
Snæfellsbær district – the region’s tourist
(www.kirkjanokkar.is; h8am-6pm) Ólafsvík’s information centre (% 433 6929; www.snb.
modern church is made entirely of trian- is; Kirkjutún 2; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, reduced
gular pieces. hours Sep-May) is located in a white building
behind Pakkhúsið.
Pakkhúsið MUSEUM

(Packhouse; %433 6930; Ólafsbraut; adult/child 88 Getting There & Away
kr500/free; hnoon-5pm Jun–mid-Sep) Mildly
interesting display telling the story of the Strætó (www.bus.is ) services:
town’s development as a trading centre, ¨¨Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Arnarstapi (kr1260 to
and an on-site cafe (snacks kr250 to kr650). Stykkishólmur, two daily June to mid-Septem-
ber, four days per week in low season; stops at
4 Sleeping & Eating the petrol station).

Við Hafið Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € To get to Reykjavík (kr4620, 3½ hours) you
(%436 1166; [email protected]; Ólafsbraut must change for bus 58 at the Vatnaleið cross-
55; dm/d without bathroom kr4100/14,600) roads, and then again in Borgarnes.

Clean, simple rooms with shared bath-
rooms and kitchen facilities are the order
of the day in this large guesthouse. Rif

POP 160

Blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Rif is a harbour vil-
lage that makes Ólafsvík look like the big

189

city. Dramatic waterfall Svödufoss, with its fishing boat in Iceland, and a cool replica of
barrelling cascades and dramatic hexagonal a fisher’s turf house, plus loads of old photos
basalt, can be seen in the distance. and memorabilia. Look for the set of lifting
stones once used to test the strength of pro-
Between Rif and Hellissandur, spot the spective fishermen.
lonely church (built 1903) at Ingjaldshóll,
the setting of Víglundar Saga. If the church 4 Sleeping & Eating
doors are open, you can see a painting de-
picting Christopher Columbus’ possible visit There’s fast food at the petrol station. Oth-
to Iceland in 1477; it’s thought he came with erwise, go east to Rif, Ólafsvík and Grunda-
the merchant marine and inquired about Vi- rfjörður for more choices.
king trips to Vinland.
Hellissandur Campground CAMPGROUND €
4 Sleeping & Eating (%433 6929; sites per adult/child kr1000/free;
hJun–mid-Sep) This campground is one of
Tiny Rif doesn’t offer much in the way of ac- our favourites, set right in the middle of
commodation, though there’s a good hostel. spiky lava field Sandahraun, with showers
Head to Grundarfjörður for more choice. and a small playground.

Freezer Hostel HOSTEL € Hótel Hellissandur HOTEL €€ W e s t I c e l a n d SHlneelæelfpi sei nlslgasn&ndeuEsartPienngi nsula
(%865 9432; www.thefreezerhostel.com; Hafnar-
gata 16; dm/apt from kr6100/28,500) This quirky (%430 8600; Klettsbuð 7; d incl breakfast
kr26,400) This hotel has good, clean rooms
joint in a former fish factory combines aus- with modern bathrooms, and some top-floor
tere four-, six-, and eight-bed dorms with
a cool theatre and live-music venue. In rooms have views to the glacier. But, under
new management, the restaurant has closed
summer there’s an active program of plays, and the lobby is generally unstaffed.
storytelling and music. Check online for the
schedule. It also lets two apartments.
88 Getting There & Away
oGamla Rif CAFE €
(%436 1001; Háarifi 3; cakes from kr850, fish soup Strætó (www.bus.is) services:
kr1900; hnoon-8pm Jun-Aug) Gamla Rif is run ¨¨Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Arnarstapi (kr1680 to
by two fishermen’s wives who have perfected Stykkishólmur, stops at the N1 petrol station).

a variety of traditional snacks. They dispense
local travel tips with a smile, and serve tasty
coffee and cakes. The show-stopper is their Snæfellsjökull National
fish soup (from their husbands’ daily catch) Park
with fresh bread; don’t miss it.
Encompassing much of the western tip
88 Getting There & Away of Snæfellsnes Peninsula Snæfellsjökull
National Park (%436 6860; www.snaefells-
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: jokull.is) wraps around the rugged slopes of
¨¨Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Arnarstapi (kr1680 the glacier Snæfellsjökull, the icy fist at the
to Stykkishólmur, two daily June to mid-Sep- end of the long Snæfellsnes arm. Around its
tember, four days per week the rest of the year, flanks lie lava tubes, protected lava fields,
when it only goes as far as Hellissandur). which are home to native Icelandic fauna,
and prime hiking and coastal bird- and
Hellissandur whale-watching spots.

POP 380 When the fog swirling around the glacier
lifts, you’ll see the mammoth ice cap, which
Hellissandur is the original fishing village was made famous when Jules Verne used it
in its area. There’s not much to it any more, as the setting for Journey to the Centre of
except great views of the glacier and fjord. the Earth. In his book, a German geologist
and his nephew embark on an epic jour-
1 Sights ney into the crater of Snæfells, guided by a
16th-century Icelandic text:
Sjómannagarður MUSEUM
Descend into the crater of Yocul of Snef-
(Maritime Museum; %436 6619; Útnesvegur; fels, which the shade of Scartaris caresses,
adult/child kr800/free; h9.30am-noon & 1-6pm before the kalends of July, audacious trav-
Tue-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug) This small eller, and you will reach the centre of the
maritime museum houses Bliki, the oldest earth.

190 Vatnshellir LAVA TUBE
Today, the park is criss-crossed with hik-
This 8000-year-old lava tube with multiple
ing trails, and during proper weather it is caverns lies 32m below the earth’s surface,
possible to visit the glacier with a tour or 1km north of Malarrif. The pull-out is visible
guide. Malarrif is home to the National Park from Rte 574, and the tube can only be vis-
Visitor Centre (p190), and area tourist ited by guided tour with Summit Adventure
offices sell maps and give advice, too. The Guides.
park’s online map is also excellent.

1 Sights Malarrif LIGHTHOUSE

oSnæfellsjökull GLACIER F About 2km south of Djúpalónssan-
dur, a paved road leads down to the rocket-
It’s easy to see why Jules Verne selected shaped lighthouse at Malarrif, from where
Snæfell for his adventure Journey to the
Centre of the Earth: the peak was torn apart you can walk 1km east along the cliffs to the
rock pillars at Lóndrangar (an eroded cra-
when the volcano beneath it exploded and ter), which surge up into the air in surpris-
then collapsed back into its own magma
chamber, forming a huge caldera. Among ing pinnacles. Locals say that elves use the
lava formations as a church. A bit further to
certain New Age groups, Snæfellsjökull is the east lie the Þúfubjarg bird cliffs, also
W e s t I c e l a n d S ingæhfteslllssjnöesk uPlelnNi nastui olnaal Par k considered one of the world’s great ‘power
centres’. Today the crater is filled with the ice accessible from Rte 574.

cap (highest point 1446m) and is a popular T Tours
summer destination.
The best way to reach the glacial summit oSummit Adventure Guides ADVENTURE
is to take a tour with Summit Adventure
Guides, Snæfellsjökull Glacier Tours or Go (%787 0001; www.summitguides.is) Offers
West! (p191). These companies approach much-loved 45-minute tours of the Vatn-
the peak from the south, on Rte F570; Rte shellir lava tube (adult/child kr3250/free).
F570’s northern approach (near Ólafsvík) is Guides shed light on the fascinating geolog-
frustratingly rutty (4WD needed) and fre- ical phenomena and region’s troll-filled lore.
quently closed due to weather-inflicted dam- Helmet and torch included. Dress warmly,
age. Even the well trained and outfitted are wear hiking boots, and preferably gloves,
not allowed to ascend the glacier without a too. They also run myriad Snæfellsjökull
local guide; contact the National Park Visi- glacier tours (kr9900 to kr19900) with hik-
tor Centre in Malarrif for more information. ing (kr10900), skiing (kr13900), snowshoe-
ing (kr9900) and ice-climbing (kr14900)
options.

Saxhöll Crater VOLCANO Snæfellsjökull Glacier

Southeast of the Öndverðarnes area, on Rte Tours SNOWMOBILE TOUR
574, follow the marked turn-off to the road-
side scoria crater Saxhöll, which was respon- (%663 3371; www.theglacier.is; snowcat/snow
mobile tours kr11,500/27,000; hMar-Jul) Two-
sible for some of the lava in the area. There’s hour snowcat (truck with chain wheels)
a drivable track leading to the base, from
where it’s an uneven 300m climb for mag- and snowmobile tours ascend the glacier to
about 1410m.
nificent views over the enormous Neshraun
lava flows. 4 Sleeping & Eating

oDjúpalón Beach BEACH Most of the hamlets in the park have rental
houses, campgrounds or guesthouses, and
(Djúpalónssandur) On the southwest coast, Rte there are a few hotels throughout the park.
572 leads off Rte 574 to the wild black-sand
beach Djúpalónssandur. It’s a dramatic place Stock up on groceries in Borgarnes or
to walk, with rock formations (an elf church, Stykkishólmur; provisions and restaurants
and a kerling – a troll woman), two brackish are few and far between in the park.
pools (for which the beach was named), and
the rock-arch Gatklettur. Some of the black 88 Information
sands are covered in pieces of rusted metal
from the English trawler Eding, which was National Park Visitor Centre – Gestastofa
shipwrecked here in 1948. An asphalt car (Snæfellsjökull National Park Visitor Centre;
park and public toilets allow tour-bus ac- % 436 6888, 591 2000; www.snaefellsjokull.
cess, and crowds. is; Malarrif; h10am-5pm Jun-Sep, 10am-4pm
Mon-Fri Oct-May) This is the spot for informa-
tion on Snæfellsjökull National Park: it’s an

191

information office in Malarrif with maps and rooms, is the area’s choice sleeping option
brochures, as well as displays on local geology, (and thus often booked solid). Even if you’re
history, flora, fauna and customs. Rangers have not overnighting, we highly recommend
an active summer program of free park guided having dinner at the restaurant. It’s all run
tours; check online or email. Note: the park with sustainability in mind.
office in Hellissandur is administrative only and
not open to the public. Primus Café CAFE €
(%865 6740; mains kr1500-2500; h10am-9pm
88 Getting There & Away May–mid-Sep, 11am-4pm mid-Sep–Apr) Welcom-
ing spot for cakes, soups and simple meals.
Strætó (www.bus.is ) services:
Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Anarstapi runs twice oFjöruhúsið SEAFOOD €€
daily June to mid-September (four days per (%435 6844; cakes & quiches kr950, mains
week in the rest of the year, when it only goes as kr2500-2800; h11am-10pm Jun-Aug, reduced
far as Hellissandur). hours Mar-May & Sep-Nov) It’s well worth fol-
lowing the stone path down to the ocean’s
Having your own wheels is the best way to see edge for the renowned fish soup at beauti-
the park.

fully situated, quaint Fjöruhúsið. Located by W e s t I c e l a n d GS noe utættfihenelgrlnTshnSensræePf&eenlAilwnsasnuyelsa
the bird cliffs at the trailhead of the scenic
Southern Snæfellsnes Hellnar–Arnarstapi path, it also serves cof-
fee in sweet, old-fashioned china.
To the east of Snæfellsjökull National Park,
coastal Rte 574 passes the hamlets of Hellnar Fosshotel Hellnar Restaurant ICELANDIC €€
and Arnarstapi, with their glacier tour com- (%435 6820; dinner mains kr3500-5600; h6-
panies and sea-sculpted rock formations.
It continues east along the broad southern 9.30pm Mar-Oct; p) S Even if you’re not
coastal plain, hugging huge sandy bays such overnighting at Hótel Hellnar, we highly
as Breiðavík on one side, and towering peaks recommend having dinner at its restaurant,
with waterfalls on the other. This stretch has which sources local organic produce for its
some super horse riding. Icelandic menu, plus offers heavenly skyr
cake for dessert. Reserve ahead.

Hellnar 88 Getting There & Away

Bárður, the subject of Bárðar saga There’s no public transport in Hellnar. You can
Snæfellsáss, was part giant, part troll and catch Strætó bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Anarstapi
part human. He chose an area near Hellnar, (two daily June to mid-September, four days per
a picturesque spot overlooking a rocky bay, week in winter) in nearby Arnarstapi.
as his home (called Laugarbrekka). Toward
the end of his intense saga, he became the Arnarstapi
guardian spirit of Snæfell. Today Hellnar is
a tiny fishing village (once huge) where the Linked to Hellnar by both the main road
shriek of seabirds fills the air and whales are and a wonderful coastal hike this hamlet
regularly sighted. of summer cottages is nestled between the
churning Arctic waters and the gnarled
1 Sights pillars of two neighbouring lava fields. A
monument pays tribute to Jules Verne and
Bárðarlaug, up near the main road, was a comical signpost measures distances to
supposedly Bárður’s bathing pool, though major cities via the earth’s core. A second,
the pond is no longer hot. Down on the enormous troll-like monument stands as a
shore, the cave Baðstofa is chock-a-block tribute to Bárður, the region’s guardian spir-
with nesting birds. Nearby is the head of it, and the leading character in a local saga.
the trail to Arnarstapi (p192). Ancient,
velvety moss-cloaked lava flows tumble east Tours to ascend the Snæfellsjökull glacial
through the Hellnahraun. crown usually start from near Arnarstapi.

4 Sleeping & Eating T Tours

oFosshotel Hellnar HOTEL €€ oGo West! ADVENTURE TOUR, CYCLING TOUR

(%435 6820; www.fosshotel.is; d incl breakfast (%695 9995; www.gowest.is) S Friendly cou-
from kr27,900; hMar-Oct; p) S Fosshotel ple Jon Joel and Maggy run ecofriendly cy-
Hellnar, with its sun-filled, comfortable cling, hiking, boating, hot-spring and glacier

192

HIKING THE COAST BETWEEN that mysteriously disappears into the cliff
ANARSTAPI & HELLNAR wall. Birds wheel overhead, a stream runs
along the bottom of the gorge, and you can
Local maps detail myriad hiking slink between the sheer walls for quite a dis-
trails connecting the sights of the tance. The gorge figures in a dramatic part
Snæfellsnes Peninsula (online at www. of the local saga of Bárður, described on a
snaefellsjokull.is). One of the most sign at the parking area.
popular (and scenic!) is the 2.5km

coastal walk (around 40 minutes) be- Breiðavík
tween Hellnar and Arnarstapi. This trail
follows the jagged coastline through a East of Rauðfeldsgjá, Rte 574 skirts the edg-
nature reserve, passing lava flows and es of an enormous sandy bay at Breiðavík.
eroded stone caves. During tumultuous The windswept coast, with its yellow ex-
weather, waves spray through the rocky panse of sand, is wonderfully peaceful,
arches; when it’s fine, look for nesting though tricky to access. The pasture-filled
seabirds. region running along the coastal mountains
from here east to Vegamót is considered
W e s t I c e l a n d S lnoeuæetfpheienlrlgns&nSeEnsaætPfienenglilnssnuelsa tours. Some focus on cultural aspects, oth- one of the best places in Iceland for horse
ers on landscape. Snæfellsjökull glacier riding, and there are several stables of in-
tours (from kr14,000) are hikes, with cram- ternational repute.
pons, ice axe etc included. Also runs tours
in Southern Iceland, or with Reykjavík pick On the eastern edge of Breiðavík, look for
up. the placard telling the grisly tale of Axlar-
Björn, Iceland’s notorious 16th-century seri-
4 Sleeping & Eating al killer, who made his living in lean times
by murdering travellers here.
Buy groceries in Borgarnes or Stykkishól-
mur before arriving; there are no shops in T Tours
Arnarstapi and just one basic cafeteria.
Stóri Kambur HORSE RIDING

(%852 7028; www.storikambur.is; hJun–mid-
Sep) Family-run operation offering one-/two-
hour rides on the beach (kr7500/13,000),
Snjófell with glacier views when it’s clear.

Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE, CAMPGROUND €€
(%435 6783; www.hringhotels.is; sites per tent
kr1600, d with/without bathroom kr25,100/15,700;
hMay-Sep) Snjófell has basic accommoda- Búðir & Búðahraun
tion and cafeteria dining (mains kr2000
to kr5000). Travellers pitch tents on grass Búðir has a lonely church and a hotel, but
outside (no showers), or bed down in the there is no sign of its former fishing village
guesthouse or new cabins with private bath- along its craggy, mossy inlets. A walking
rooms. Wi-fi in reception area only. trail leads across the elf-infested nature
preserve, Buðahraun lava field. The ancient
88 Getting There & Away lava field is protected; if you look down into
its hollows and cracks you’ll find flourishing
There is no public transport going east. To get to flowers and ferns, many of them themselves
Reykjavík, you can take bus 82 to the Vatnaleið protected native Icelandic species. The path
crossroads (at Rtes 56 and 55) and change for also leads to the crater Búðaklettur. Ac-
bus 58 to Borgarnes, where you must change cording to local legend, a lava tube beneath
once more. Buðahraun, paved with gold and precious
Strætó (p401) services: stones, leads all the way to Surtshellir in
¨¨Bus 82 Stykkishólmur–Anarstapi (two daily upper Borgarfjörður. It takes about three
June to mid-September, four days per week the hours to walk to the crater and back.
rest of the year).
4 Sleeping & Eating

Rauðfeldsgjá Hótel Buðir HOTEL €€€
(%435 6700; www.hotelbudir.is; Buðir; d kr39,900-
Rauðfeldsgjá CANYON 54,500; i) Windswept and on a gorgeous,

Just north of Arnarstapi and Stapafell, on remote coastline, Hótel Buðir tries to be
Rte 574, a small track branches off to the
stunning Rauðfeldsgjá, a steep, narrow cleft stylish, though it’s besieged by tour groups
and prices are stiff for what you get. No 28

193

has the best views (and a teeny balcony). FROM ARNARSTAPI TOWARDS
The restaurant (mains kr7900 to kr9900) is THE GLACIER
sometimes closed to those not in prebooked
tour groups. If you drive up the F570 from Arnarstapi,
you’ll pass Stapafell (526m), home
Lýsuhóll to Gerðuberg to the local little people, and you’ll see
miniature house gables painted onto
Horse ranches dot this area, several of- rocks in their honour. Further along
fering accommodation. Grassy fields and you’ll pass a collapsed crater, which cre-
sandy beaches alternate with lava fields and ated a series of lava caves about 1.5km
mountain backdrops, making for great rid- from the main road. The largest cave is
ing country. Sönghellir (Song Cave), which is full of
18th-century graffiti and is rumoured to
1 Sights & Activities resound with the songs of dwarfs. Bring
a torch to read the various markings
oLýsuhólslaug GEOTHERMAL POOL and don’t be shy about belting out your
favourite melody.
(%433 9917; adult/child kr3000/1000; h1.30-
8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun Jul-Aug) The
geothermal source for Lýsuhólslaug pumps
carbonated, mineral-filled waters in at a per- W e s t I c e l a n d SDioagluhitrthse&rnA cStniæv ifteilelssnes
fect 37°C to 39°C. Don’t be alarmed that the
pool is a murky green: the iron-rich water Hotel Rjúkandi HOTEL €€
(%788 9100; www.rjukandi.com; cnr Rtes 54 & 56,
attracts some serious algae. Find it just be- Vegamót; d incl breakfast kr27,100; hcafe 10am-
yond the horse ranch at Lýsuhóll. 6pm, restaurant 6-9.30pm) S Vegamót means
‘crossroads’, and that’s exactly where you’ll
Gerðuberg LANDMARK find this sustainably operated hotel, cafe

Just where Rte 54 curves between the and restaurant. You’ll probably spot its cafe,
Snæfellsnes Peninsula and the mainland,
you’ll find the dramatic basalt towers of Rjúkandi Kaffi (snacks kr450-1600), first. It’s
next to the N1 station, and is loaded with
Gerðuberg rising from the plain. homemade cakes, daily soups and happy

Ytri-Tunga WILDLIFE WATCHING locals. Simple, clean rooms have private
bathrooms. The hotel’s restaurant serves
The deserted farmstead at Ytri-Tunga, just well-presented Icelandic fare.
east of Hof, occasionally has a colony of seals
offshore, best seen in June and July.
Guesthouse Hof GUESTHOUSE, COTTAGE €€
(%846 3897; www.gistihof.is; Rte 54, Hof farm-
T Tours stead; d with/without bathroom kr17,800/14,700,

oLýsuhóll HORSE RIDING, COTTAGES 2-bedroom houses kr26,000) Friendly Hof has a

(%435 6716; www.lysuholl.is) Equine enthu- varied selection of basic apartment-style ac-
siasts should look no further than this commodation, each with their own hot tub
friendly horse farm. Even if you’re not rid- and beautiful views, as well as free-standing
ing, the farm and its guesthouse and cot- cabins with private bathrooms, and their
tages (double/quad including breakfast own shared kitchen cabin. There is also
kr20,000/32,000, cottage kr25,000) are sleeping-bag accommodation. Wi-fi in pub-
a fun place to stay. Guides will show you lic areas only.
around the stables, and there are both short
excursions (one hour kr7000) and multiday Langaholt GUESTHOUSE €€
(%435 6789; www.langaholt.is; Rte 54, Görðum;
tours (eight days €1850). sites per person kr1000, d kr25,200) Langaholt is

4 Sleeping & Eating a family-run golf course, guesthouse, camp-
ground, and restaurant (open 8am to 9pm).
Traðir Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ Simple rooms often have great views, but
(%431 5353; www.tradirguesthouse.net; Rte 54,
Traðir farm; d without bathroom kr15,300, cottage the bathrooms could be better.

kr21,200) Comfortable guest rooms and a
private cottage are set on the shore of the
southern Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and there’s DALIR
a small cafe serving simple meals. It also of-
fers horse riding, and fishing licenses for the The scenic corridor of rolling fields and crag-
nearby Staðará river. gy river-carved buttes between West Iceland
and the Westfjords served as the setting for

194 looking out over Hvammsfjörður, at the
the Laxdæla Saga, the most popular of the mouth of the Laxá river. A current claim to
Icelandic sagas. The story revolves around a fame is its dairy, which produces most of the
love triangle between Guðrun Ósvífursdóttir, cheese in Iceland. The local supermarket
said to be the most beautiful woman in Ice- carries a good sampling.
land, and the foster brothers Kjartan Ólafs-
son and Bolli Þorleiksson. In typical saga 1 Sights
fashion, Guðrun had both men wrapped
around her little finger and schemed and Leifsbúð MUSEUM
connived until both were dead – Kjartan at
the hands of Bolli, and Bolli at the hands of (%434 1441; www.dalir.is; Buðarbraut 1; h11am-
Kjartan’s brothers. Most Icelanders know 5pm Apr-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Mar) F
the stories and characters by heart and hold There’s a folk museum, tourist informa-
the area in which the story took place in tion centre and cafe-restaurant (p194)
great historic esteem. all rolled into one at Leifsbúð down by the
harbour. Look out for the museum’s Viking
exhibit featuring Leifur Eiríksson and Erik
the Red.
Eiríksstaðir
W e s t I c e l a n d DSE iarglíhikrtsss ta ð i r 4 Sleeping
Eiríksstaðir Reconstruction LANDMARK

(%434 1118; www.leif.is; Rte 586; adult/child Búðardalur Campground CAMPGROUND €
kr1250/free; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug) The farm
Eiríksstaðir was home to Eiríkur Rauðe (%434 1644; sites per adult/child kr1200/free;
hmid-May–mid-Sep) This simple campsite
(Erik the Red), father of Leifur Eiríksson, has showers and laundry.
the first European to visit America. Al-
though only a faint outline of the original Dalakot GUESTHOUSE €€
(%434 1644; www.dalakot.is; Dalbraut 2; d with/
farm remains, a reconstruction turf house without bathroom kr21,900/15,900) Guesthouse
was built using only the tools and materials
available at the time. Period-dressed guides Dalakot has simple rooms, and a restaurant
(open noon to 9pm) with a broad menu
show visitors around and tell the story of (mains kr1600 to kr2600).
Erik the Red, who went on to found the first
European settlement in Greenland.
Find Eiríksstaðir 8km inland on gravel 5 Eating & Drinking

and paved Rte 586, east of Stóra-Vatnshorn’s Leifsbúð Café & Restaurant CAFE €
(%434 1441; www.leifsbud.is; cafe noon-6pm, res-
church, on Haukadalsá river. taurant 6-10pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep; hsnacks kr800-

1800, mains kr2500-3000) Part of the Leifsbúð
museum and tourist information centre,
Búðardalur this little cafe offers cakes, pizza, soup and
meatballs, and a dinner restaurant should
POP 270 be opening in 2017.

Founded as a cargo depot in Saga times, this
pin-sized town occupies a pleasant position

ÖNDVERÐARNES

At the westernmost tip of Snæfellsnes, Rte 574 cuts south, while Rte 579, a tiny gravel
and occasionally surfaced track, heads further west across an ancient lava flow to the tip
of the Öndverðarnes peninsula, which is great for whale watching.

As the paved road winds through charcoal lava cliffs you’ll pass Skarðsvík, a golden
beach with basalt cubes alongside. A Viking grave was discovered here in the 1960s and
it’s easy to understand why this stunning spot would have been a favoured final resting
place.

After Skarðsvík the track is unpaved and bumpier (still manageable for a 2WD). Park
at the turn-off (left side) to walk through craggy lava flows to the imposing volcanic
crater Vatnsborg, or continue driving straight on until you reach a T-intersection. One
kilometre to the left lie the dramatic Svörtuloft bird cliffs (Saxhólsbjarg), with excel-
lent walkways, and a tall, orange lighthouse. To the right, a bumpy track runs parallel
to the sea 1.9km to a squat, orange lighthouse. From its parking area, you can walk to
the very tip of the peninsula, for whale watching, or walk 200m northeast to Fálkí, an
ancient stone well which was thought to have three waters: fresh, holy and ale!

195

Blómalindin Kaffihornið CAFE

(%434 1606; www.blomalindin.is; Vesturbraut 12a) ERPSSTAÐIR DAIRY FARM
Get a good cup of coffee at this coffee house–
cum flower shop. When the peanut gallery starts moan-
ing, ‘Are we there yet?’, you know it’s
7 Shopping time to head to Erpsstaðir (%868
0357; www.erpsstadir.is; Rte 60; cowshed
Bolli Craft ARTS & CRAFTS adult/child kr650/free; h1-5pm Jun–mid-
Sep; c) the perfect place to stretch
(%434 1410; www.facebook.com/bollicraft; Vest- your legs. Like a mirage for sweet-
erbraut 12; h10am-6pm mid-May–Aug, noon-6pm toothed wanderers, this dairy farm on
late Apr–mid-May & Sep) Cool local arts and the gorgeous Rte 60 (between Búðard-
crafts include handmade sweaters, sheep- alur and the Ring Road; with high moun-
horn buttons and charming elves. tain valleys, streams and waterfalls)
specialises in delicious homemade ice
88 Getting There & Away cream (kr400). You can tour the farm, W e s t I c e l a n d HSDhaj laoriprðpai nrgholt & A round
greet the buxom bovines, chickens,
Strætó (www.bus.is) services: rabbits and even guinea pigs, then gorge
¨¨Bus 59 Borgarnes–Bifröst–Búðardalur– on a scoop.
Skriðuland–Króksfjarðarnes–Hólmavík (to
Hólmavík kr2940, five weekly mid-May to The farm also sells skyr and cheese;
mid-September, two weekly mid-September to try the rocket-shaped skyr-konfekt
mid-May) stops in Búðardalur at the N1 petrol (meant to look like an udder), a deli-
station). cious dessert made with a hard white
chocolate shell encasing thick skyr. It’ll
Hjarðarholt & Around blow you away.

Although the Dalir is central to several of Erpsstaðir also offers a rental cottage
the best-loved Icelandic sagas, little remains (from kr20,000; linen kr1000 per per-
of the original farms. For example no trace son) if you’re contemplating ice cream
remains of Hjarðarholt, the one-time home for breakfast...
of Kjartan Ólafsson and his father, Ólaf the
Peacock. Their farmstead was said to be one 1 Sights
of the wonders of the Norse world, with
scenes from the sagas carved into the walls, Dalir Heritage Museum MUSEUM
and a huge dining hall that could seat 1100.
You will find, however, a beautiful church (%434 1328; adult/child kr1000/free; h10am-
on the site with great views over the valley 4pm Jun-Aug, by appointment Sep-May) This neat
where the region’s history unfurled. museum’s curator is a wonderful character
who knows a great deal about Dalir’s bril-
Nearby, and also on the Laxá river, liant history. There’s an unexpected 1883
Höskuldsstaðir was the birthplace of Hall- traditional baðstofa (living/sleeping room).
gerður Longlegs (also called Longtresses), The museum is in the basement of the Hótel
wife of Gunnar of Hlíðarendi, who starred Edda, of all places.
in Njál’s Saga. Other important residents of
the farm include Bolli and his foster brother 4 Sleeping & Eating
Kjartan from Laxdæla Saga.
Hótel Edda HOTEL, CAMPGROUND €€
(%444 4930; www.hoteledda.is; Sælingsdalur;
sites per person kr1200, d with/without bathroom
Laugar kr28,200/15,700; hearly Jun-late Aug; is)
The Hótel Edda has a newer wing with
Just north of the spot where Rte 590 heads surprisingly modern rooms, an older hospi-
west off Rte 60 you’ll find the encampment tal-style annexe with shared bathrooms, and
at Laugar, the birthplace of Laxdæla Saga sleeping-bag space in converted classrooms.
beauty Guðrun Ósvífursdóttir. Historians The restaurant (%444 4930; www.hoteledda.
believe they’ve found Guðrun’s bathing is; Sælingsdalur; mains kr2000-5000; h6-9pm
pool (Guðrúnarlaug): the hot pool is well early Jun-late Aug) gets good reviews – it serves
marked above the entrance to Hótel Edda, the delicious ice cream from Erpsstaðir, plus
and has a small changing kiosk. Tungustapi, there’s a large swimming pool.
in the distance, is a large elf cathedral.

You’ll need your own wheels to get here.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Westfjords

Includes  Why Go?

Látrabjarg The Westfjords is where Iceland’s dramatic landscapes come
Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . . 200 to a riveting climax and where mass tourism disappears –
Patreksfjörður. . . . . . . 201 only about 10% of Iceland’s visitors ever see the region. Jag-
Tálknafjörður. . . . . . . . 203 ged bird cliffs and broad multihued dream beaches flank
Bíldudalur . . . . . . . . . . 203 the south. Rutted dirt roads snake north along jaw-dropping
Þingeyri. . . . . . . . . . . . 204 coastal fjords and over immense central mountains, reveal-
Dýrafjörður . . . . . . . . . 205 ing tiny fishing villages embracing traditional ways of life.
Ísafjörður. . . . . . . . . . . 207 In the far north, the Hornstrandir hiking reserve crowns the
Bolungarvík. . . . . . . . . . 211 quiet region, and is home to cairn-marked walking paths re-
Ísafjarðardjúp. . . . . . . 212 vealing bird life, Arctic foxes and ocean vistas. The Strandir
Hornstrandir. . . . . . . . 214 coast is less visited still, with an end-of-the-line, mystical
Hólmavík. . . . . . . . . . . 218 feel, geothermal springs and minuscule oceanside hamlets.
Drangsnes. . . . . . . . . . 218
Bjarnarfjörður. . . . . . . 219 Leave plenty of time: unpaved roads weave around fjords
Norðurfjörður. . . . . . . 220 and over pothole-pitted mountain passes, but the scenery
is never short of breathtaking. Once you get used to it, you
may not want to leave.

Best Places to Eat Road Distances (km)

¨¨Tjöruhúsið (p210) Þingeyri 129
¨¨Litlibær (p212) Ísafjörður 175 47
¨¨Heimsendi Bistro (p202) Hólmavík 234 265 221
¨¨Simbahöllin (p205) Norðurfjörður 333 348 303 105
¨¨Stúkuhúsið (p202) Reykjavík 397 405 450 230 334

Best Places to Stay Patreksfjörður
Þingeyri
¨¨Guesthouse Kirkjuból í Ísafjörður
Bjarnardal (p206) Hólmavík
Norðurfjörður
¨¨Hótel Laugarhóll (p219)

¨¨Urðartindur (p220)

¨¨Camping in Hornstrandir
Nature Reserve (p214)

197

SOUTH COAST is camping in Miðjanes (about 4km to the
west of Reykhólar), where a guesthouse is
The sparsely populated south coast of the also being added.
Westfjords is a tiny version of what’s to
come on the wild and wonderful peninsu- There are no restaurants or grocery stores
las further north. Remote fjords twist into in Reykhólar, just a minuscule minimart
the coastline, and though there’s been a and cafe at the tourist office. Bring in your
new road built to cut across their desolate own supplies.
isolation, it’s still a bare and dramatic place.
It’s the primary breeding area for the en- Reykhólar HI Hostel GUESTHOUSE €
dangered white-tailed eagle. (Álftaland; %892 7558, bookings 575 6700; www.
hostel.is; dm kr4750) This hostel under new
ownership has two simple eight-bed dorm
rooms, two soothing hot-pots out back and a
Reykhólar guest kitchen. Thre’s a discount for HI mem-
bers of kr750.
Tiny Reykhólar sits on the southern edge of
the Reykjanes Peninsula, a minor geother- Hótel Bjarkalundur HOTEL €€
mal area and gateway to the southernmost (%434 7863; www.bjarkalundur.is; d with/without
Westfjords. Gilsfjörður is an eagle breeding bathroom incl breakfast kr26,900/19,900, cottages
ground, and west along the coast, the key kr24,500; hMay-Oct) On Rte 60, just north of
inlets for eagle spotting are Þorskafjörður, the turn-off to Reykhólar, Hótel Bjarkalun-
Djúpifjörður and Vatnsfjörður. dur is a summer hotel with an impersonal
motel feel. The cottages are quieter. There’s a
1 Sights & Activities petrol station and a restaurant serving lack-
lustre grub (mains kr1700 to kr4500). Wi-fi Th e W e s tfj o rds RS ioegyuhktthhsóC&loaAarcstti v i t i e s
Reykhólar Tourist Office Museum MUSEUM is spotty.
(%894 1011; www.visitreykholahreppur.is; kr750;
h11am-5pm Jun-Aug) The well-managed tour- 88 Getting There & Away
ist office has a little museum with antique
boats, stuffed birds and a movie of local life Strætó (www.bus.is):
in the 1950s and ‘60s. There’s a small on-site ¨¨Bus 59 Hólmavík–Búðardalur–Borgarnes
cafe (snacks kr500 to kr1200), plus lots of stops at Króksfjarðarnes’ White-Tailed Eagle
Westfjords information. Centre.

White-Tailed Eagle Centre MUSEUM

(%894 1011; www.visitreykholahreppur.is; Króks- Flókalundur
fjarðarnes; adult/child kr500/free; h11am-6pm
mid-Jun–mid-Aug) The White-Tailed Eagle Flókalundur, the junction between the road
Centre highlights the attempts to increase up to Arnarfjörður and Ísafjörður, and Rte
the population of the struggling species, 62 to the southwestern peninsulas, sits at
which peaked in 2011 at 66 nests. It also the head of Vatnsfjörður. The two-house en-
has a handicraft market. The centre is just campment at Flókalundur was named after
north of the causeway on Rte 60 that crosses the Viking explorer Hrafna-Flóki Vilgerðar-
Gilsfjörður. son, who gave Iceland its name in AD 860.

Norður Salt LANDMARK Today, the most interesting thing in the
area is Hellulaug (Rte 62; by donation) a nat-
(www.nordursalt.com) Norður Salt, on the point ural hot-pot in among the rocks near the
in Reykhólar, processes sea salt from the seashore. At high tide, do as the locals do
local salt bays. You can peek in its windows. and jump in the frigid sea, then run back
to the pool to warm up (38°C). The Vatns-
Reykhólar Sea Baths HOT-POT fjörður Nature Reserve was established to
protect the area around Lake Vatnsdalsvatn,
(Sjávarsmiðjan; %577 4800; www.sjavarsmidjan. a nesting site for harlequin ducks and great
is; adult/child kr3900/free; h1-7pm Jun-Aug) In northern divers (loons). Various hiking trails
windswept Reykhólar, the seaweed baths run around the lake and into the hills be-
give you soft skin and a view of the coastal yond. Hótel Flókalundur(%456 2011; www.
plain, rimmed by salt bays. flokalundur.is; sites per person kr1400, d incl break-
fast kr24,200; hmid-May–mid-Sep) is a recently
4 Sleeping & Eating updated bungalow-style hotel with small,
tidy wood-panelled rooms with renovated
There are a couple of simple places to stay
in Reykhólar plus a campground, and there

198

Aðalvík Búrfell

DENMARK (498m)
STRAIT GranahlHíðesteyri

Hnifsdalur– Grunnavík
Bolungarvík Tunnel
Skálavík

Bolungarvík

Súgandafjörður Syðridalsvatn Óshlíð

Ingjaldsandur ÖnundarfjöSruððuruFrelaytreiy6r5i Tungudalur Ísafjarðardjúp
Hnífsdalur
64 Ísafjörður Vigur

Skutulsfjörður

Ísafjörður– Breiðafell Suðavík
Suðureyri–
Flateyri Tunnel
Litlibær
Dýrafjörður 624 60 61
Núpur Skrúður
Th e W e s tfj o rds SGF loeótukttaihnlgCuonTadhsuetr e & Away 4WD only Meðaldalur
Svalvogar 622 SkötufjörðurLambadalsfjall
(957m)
Haukadalur
Þingeyri Þingeyri
Peninsula

No Cars Sandfell

Selárdalur Kaldbakur Sjónfrið
Arnarfjörður (998m) (920m)

Hrafnseyri

KetildaGlirræn6a1h9líð Borgarfjörður Gláma
Dynjandi

Bíldudalur Suðurfirðir

Tálknafjörður 60
Kollsvík Patreksfjörður
63

Hænuvík Patreksfjörður 60 Vatnsfjörður
Breiðavík 615 Nature Reserve
Hvallátur Foss
Fossdalur
Brunnar Hnjótur 62 Flókalundur Fossá
Bjargtangar Keflavík Sauðlauksdalur
62
Látrabjarg 614 612 Krossholt Brjánslækur
Rauðasandur Tungamúli
Vatnsfjörður
Melanes Kleifaheiði
Skarðabrún Barðaströnd
Stálfjall
Breiðafjörður
Flatey (5km);
Stykkishólmur (25km)

The Westfjords Highlights

1 Rauðasandur (p200) toothed cliffs while spying on 4 Látrabjarg (p201)
Exploring an ethereal rosy Arctic foxes. Watching puffins swoop
beach and azure lagoon while 3 Dynjandi (p204) Letting around gigantic bird cliffs.
looking for basking seals. the mists of this majestic 5 Arnarfjörður (p204)
2 Hornstrandir Nature waterfall swirl around you Spooking yourself with sea-
Reserve (p214) Roving saw- as you climb its dizzying monster lore in Bíldudalur
cascades.