Lonely Planet Iceland

399

The visa situation for Ice- trails in Vatnajökull National DIRECTORY Directory A–Z Volunteering
land is as follows. Park. Places on its short-term LISTINGS
¨¨Citizens of EU and programs (under four weeks)
Schengen countries – no visa are usually arranged through its Due to the unique way
required for stays of up to partner volunteer organisations, in which surnames are
three months. such as Working Abroad (www. formed in Iceland (girls
¨¨Citizens or residents of workingabroad.com) or Iceland- add the suffix -dóttir,
Australia, Canada, Japan, based SEEDS. Longer-term daughter, to their father’s
New Zealand and the USA – placements are also possible on first name; boys add the
no visa required for tourist Trail Teams that work together suffix -son), telephone
visits of up to three months. for 11 weeks over summer; see directories are alpha-
Note that the total stay within the UST website for details. betised by first name.
the Schengen area must not SEEDS (www.seeds.is) Iceland-
exceed three months in any based SEEDS organises work is no national WWOOF organisa-
six-month period. camps and volunteering holidays tion. In return for volunteer help,
¨¨Other countries – check (generally two to three weeks WWOOF hosts offer food, accom-
online at www.utl.is. in length), primarily focusing modation and opportunities to
To work or study in Iceland a on nature and the environment learn about organic lifestyles.
permit is usually required – (building trails, ecological
check with an Icelandic em- research), but also construction Work
bassy or consulate in person or renovation of community
or online. buildings, or assistance at The increasing flow of tour-
festivals and events. ists to Iceland requires more
For questions on visa exten- Volunteer Abroad (www. workers. To be hired for
sions or visas and permits in volunteerabroad.com) Offers an in-demand summer seasonal
general, contact the Icelandic overview of possible projects work (eg housekeeping and
Directorate of Immigration, in Iceland. Note that many of hospitality in hotels, guest-
Útlendingastofnun the projects listed are under houses and restaurants) you
(www.utl.is). the remit of Umhverfisstofnun, must be from the EU/EEA.
but arranged through various If you’re after a professional
Volunteering international volunteering job, Icelandic language skills
organisations. may be a prerequisite (ex-
A volunteering holiday is a Workaway (www.workaway.info) ceptions exist in the growing
worthwhile (and relatively This site is set up to promote computer programming and
inexpensive) way to get exchange between travellers/ gaming industries, and in
intimately involved with volunteers and families or tourism).
Iceland’s people and land- organisations looking for help
scapes. As well as the below with a range of activities (from For non-EU/EEA nationals,
options, a stint at the Arctic au pair work to farm assistance). things aren’t so easy – you
Fox Center (Melrakkasetur; It has dozens of Icelandic hosts must have a work permit,
%456 4922; www.arcticfox looking for unpaid help in return which most commonly re-
center.com; adult/child kr1200/ for accommodation. quires sponsorship from a
free; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, Worldwide Friends (www.wf.is) local company. Full details
10am-4pm Sep-May; W) in the Iceland-based Worldwide Friends are outlined on the Directo-
wilds of the Westfjords is also runs short-term work camps rate of Immigration’s site:
possible. that largely support nature and www.utl.is.
Iceland Conservation Volun- the environment. There are
teers (www.ust.is/the- also options for involvement in One of the best places to
environment-agency-of-iceland/ community projects, and art and start gathering information
volunteers) Iceland’s Environ- cultural events. and contacts is the website
ment Agency, known as Umhver- WWOOF (www.wwoofindepend of Vinnumálastofnun, the Ice-
fisstofnun (UST), recruits around ents.org) World Wide Opportu- landic Directorate of Labour
200 volunteers each summer for nities On Organic Farms (also (www.vinnumalastofnun.is).
work on practical conservation known as Willing Workers On It provides information on
projects around the country, Organic Farms) has a handful of work in Iceland, plus links to
which mainly create or maintain farm properties in Iceland that agencies that may be able
accept wwoofers, although there to help.

400 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transport

GETTING THERE months beyond your pro- visiticeland.com (under
& AWAY posed departure date. Plan/Travel to Iceland).
Icelandair (www.icelandair.
Iceland has become far more As long as you are in com) The national carrier has an
accessible in recent years, possession of the right doc- excellent safety record.
with more flights arriving umentation, immigration Air Iceland (www.airiceland.is)
from more destinations. control should be a quick The main domestic airline (not
Ferry transport (from north- formality. to be confused with Icelandair).
ern Denmark) makes a good Also flies to destinations in
alternative for Europeans Air Greenland and the Faroe Islands.
wishing to take their own car. WOW Air (www.wowair.com) Ice-
Airports & Airlines landic low-cost carrier, serving a
Flights, cars and tours can growing number of European and
be booked online at lonely Keflavík International Airport North American destinations.
planet.com/bookings. (KEF;%525 6000; www.kefair
port.is) Iceland’s main interna- Sea
Entering the tional airport is 48km southwest
Country of Reykjavík. Smyril Line (www.smyrilline.
Reykjavík Domestic Airport com) operates a pricey but
Iceland is part of the Schen- (Reykjavíkurflugvöllur; Map well-patronised weekly car ferry,
gen Agreement, which p56; www.reykjavikairport.is; the Norröna, from Hirtshals
eliminates border passport Innanlandsflug) Internal flights (Denmark) through Tórshavn
control between Schengen and those to Greenland and the (Faroe Islands) to Seyðisfjörður
countries in Europe. Faroes use this small airport in in East Iceland. It operates year-
central Reykjavík. round, although winter passage
There is passport control is weather-dependent – see
when entering Iceland from A growing number of air- website for more.
a country outside the Schen- lines fly to Iceland (including
gen area. Some nationalities budget carriers) from desti- Fares vary greatly, de-
need a visa to enter Iceland. nations in Europe and North pending on dates of travel,
America. Some airlines have what sort of vehicle (if any)
For entry into the Schen- services only from June to you are travelling with, and
gen area, you must have August. Find a list of airlines
a passport valid for three serving the country at www.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause
of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which
might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater
distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also
contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’
that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for
those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con-
tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet
offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

401

ESSENTIAL WEB RESOURCES Tr a nsp o rt A ir

Four websites every traveller should know about:

Safetravel (www.safetravel.is) Learn about minimising risks while travelling in Iceland.
Icelandic Met Office (www.vedur.is) Never underestimate the weather in Iceland, or
its impact on your travels. Get a reliable forecast from this site (or call %902 0600, and
press 1 after the introduction). Download its app, too (called Veður).

Vegagerðin (www.road.is) Iceland’s road administration site details road openings and
closings around the country. Vital if you plan to explore Iceland’s little-visited corners and
remote interior, and for information about winter road access.

Carpooling in Iceland (www.samferda.is) Handy site that helps drivers and passengers
link up. Passengers often foot some of the petrol bill. It’s a savvy alternative to hitching
(for passengers), and a way to help pay for car rental and fuel (for drivers).

cabin selection. The jour- eg Mývatn, Skaftafell, and planned, consider the bus.
ney time from Hirtshals to Reykjavík and Akureyri Note that space can’t be
Seyðisfjörður is 47 hours. domestic airports – and reserved. It’s free to take a
helicopter sightseeing is bike on Strætó (%540 2700;
It’s possible to make a increasingly popular. www.bus.is) services; other
stopover in the Faroes. Con- companies, such as Sterna
tact Smyril Line or see the Airlines in Iceland (%551 1166; www.icelandbybus.
website for trip packages. is), SBA-Norðurleið (%550
Air Iceland (Flugfélag Íslands; 0700; www.sba.is) and Rey-
GETTING %570 3030; www.airiceland. kjavík Excursions (%580
AROUND is) Not to be confused with 5400; www.re.is), charge
international airline Icelandair. around kr3500.
There is no train network in Destinations covered: Reykjavík,
Iceland. The most common Akureyri, Grimsey, Ísafjörður, Puncture-repair kits and
way for visitors to get around Vopnafjörður, Egilsstaðir and spares are hard to come by
the country is to drive a Þórshöfn. Offers some fly-in day outside Reykjavík; bring your
rental car. tours. own or stock up in the capi-
Eagle Air (%Reykjavík 562 tal. On the road, it’s essential
There’s a decent bus net- 4200; www.eagleair.is) Oper- to know how to do your own
work operating from around ates scheduled flights to five basic repairs.
June to mid-September small airstrips from Reykjavík:
between major destinations; Vestmannaeyjar, Húsavík, Höfn, If you want to tackle the
bus services are more limited Bíldudalur and Gjögur. Also runs interior, the Kjölur route
outside of summer. Don’t a number of day tours. has bridges over all ma-
overlook internal flights to jor rivers, making it fairly
help you maximise your time. Bicycle accessible to cyclists. A
less-challenging route is
Air Cycling is an increasingly the F249 to Þórsmörk. The
popular way to see the coun- Westfjords also offers some
Iceland has an extensive try’s landscapes, but be pre- wonderful, challenging cy-
network of domestic flights, pared for harsh conditions. cling terrain.
which locals use almost like
buses. In winter a flight can be Gale-force winds, driving Transporting
the only way to get between rain, sandstorms, sleet and Bicycles to Iceland
destinations, but weather sudden flurries of snow are
at this time of year can play possible year-round. We rec- Most airlines will carry your
havoc with schedules. ommend keeping your plans bike in the hold if you pack it
relatively flexible so you can correctly in a bike box.
Domestic flights depart wait out bad weather if the
from the small Reykjavík need arises. At Keflavík International
Domestic Airport (Rey- Airport, a new facility (a con-
kjavíkurflugvöllur; Map p56; You’ll be forced to ride tainer 100m east of the Arriv-
www.reykjavikairport.is; In- closely alongside traffic on als exit) is available to as-
nanlandsflug), not from the the Ring Road (there are no semble or disassemble bikes.
major international airport at hard shoulders to the roads). Reykjavík City Hostel (Map
Keflavík. p56; %553 8110; www.
The large bus companies hostel.is; Sundlaugavegur 34;
A handful of airstrips offer carry bikes, so if the weather dm from kr4750, d with/without
regular sightseeing flights – turns bad or that highlands bathroom kr17,900/12,900;
bike trip isn’t working out as
piW) S also offers such

Tr a nsp o rt B oat402 West Iceland to Brjánslækur Companies
facilities and will store bike in the Westfjords.
boxes. At Keflavík airport, ¨¨Sæfari (www.saefari.is) Main bus companies:
Bílahótel (www.bilahotel. Connecting Dalvík in North Reykjavík Excursions (%580
is) is a garage (in the same Iceland to Grímsey island on 5400; www.re.is)
building as Geysir Car Rent- the Arctic Circle. SBA-Norðurleið (%550 0700;
al) that offers luggage stor- From June to August, reg- www.sba.is)
age, including bike boxes. ular boat services run from Sterna (%551 1166; www.
The Smyril Line ferry Bolungarvík and Ísafjörður icelandbybus.is)
(www.smyrilline.com) from to points in Hornstrandir Strætó (%540 2700; www.
Denmark transports bikes for (Westfjords). bus.is)
€15 each way.
Bus Bus Passports
Hire
Iceland has an extensive Bus operators offer ‘bus
Various places rent out network of long-distance bus passports’ every summer
mountain bikes, but in gener- routes, with services pro- (valid from early or mid-June
al these are intended for local vided by a handful of main to the first week of Septem-
use only, and often aren’t up companies. The free Public ber), with the aim of making
to long-haul travel. Transport in Iceland map has public transport around the
an overview of routes; pick it island as easy as possible.
If you intend to go touring, up at tourist offices or view it At the time of research,
it’s wise to bring your bike online at www.publictrans none of the passports
from home or purchase one port.is. cover the Westfjords, but
when you arrive; alterna- services along the highland
tively, Reykjavík Bike Tours From roughly June to Sprengisandur and Kjölur
(www.icelandbike.com) has mid-September regular routes can be included.
touring bikes for rent. scheduled buses run to most
places on the Ring Road, into If you’re considering tour-
Resources the popular hiking areas of ing Iceland by bus, do your
the southwest, and to larger homework before buying a
Cycling Iceland (www.cycling towns in the Westfjords and bus passport. They’re not
iceland.is) Online version of the Eastfjords, and on the Rey- cheap, and it’s significantly
brilliantly detailed Cycling Ice- kjanes and Snæfellsnes Pen- more convenient (and may-
land map, published annually. insulas. The rest of the year, be cheaper, if you are two
Icelandic Mountain Bike Club services range from daily, to or more) to hire your own
(http://fjallahjolaklubburinn.is) a few weekly, to nonexistent. vehicle.
The English-language pages of
this website are a goldmine of In summer, 4WD buses run Some passports lock you
information. along some F roads (moun- into a time restriction, others
The Biking Book of Iceland tain roads), including the (eg circular routes) allow you
Keep an eye out for a new series highland Kjölur, Sprengisan- to travel at leisure, provided
of cycling books by Ómar Smári dur and Askja routes (inac- you travel in one direction.
Kristinsson, covering trails in cessible to 2WD cars).
the Westfjords, West, Southwest Passports lock you into
and South Iceland. Not all are Many bus services can using the services of one
available in English. be used as day tours: buses company, and no Icelandic
spend a few hours at the final bus company offers the per-
Boat destination before returning fect network – each has sig-
to the departure point, and nificant geographic gaps in
Several year-round ferries may stop for a half-hour at service, and most routes only
operate in Iceland. Major various tourist destinations run once per day. Strætó
routes all carry vehicles, en route. has the biggest network and
but it’s worthwhile booking most frequent services but is
ahead for car passage. Bus companies may not a part of any passports.
¨¨Herjólfur (www.herjolfur. operate from different ter- You may be better off buying
is) Connecting Landeyjahöfn minals or pick-up points. separate tickets for each leg
in South Iceland to Reykjavík has several bus of your journey, using the bus
Vestmannaeyjar islands. terminals; in small towns, service that offers you the
¨¨Sævar (www.hrisey. buses usually stop at the best route at the time. Find
net) Frequent and main petrol station, but it up-to-date rates on websites.
easy connections from pays to double-check.
Árskógssandur in North ICELAND ON YOUR OWN
Iceland, north of Akureyri, to Many buses are equipped PASSPORTS
the island of Hrísey. with free wi-fi. Reykjavík Excursions and
¨¨Baldur (www.seatours.is) SBA-Norðurleið work togeth-
Connecting Stykkishólmur in Many buses have GPS er to offer Iceland On Your
tracking, so you can see
when your bus is approach-
ing your stop.

403

Own passports; full details at Landmannalaugar and picked up gravel stretch out to most Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M otorc y c l e
www.ioyo.is. at the route’s end in Þórsmörk communities.
(or vice versa). If you’re hiking ¨¨Driving coastal areas can
Pros: Fimmvörðuháls, you can transfer be spectacularly scenic, and
¨¨Services along both the between Skógar and Þórsmörk incredibly slow as you weave
highland Kjölur and the (kr12,500). up and down over mountain
Sprengisandur routes. passes and in and out of long
¨¨Good services in the south ICELAND BY BUS fjords.
(using the strong Reykjavík PASSPORTS ¨¨A 2WD vehicle will get
Excursions network). Sterna has four passports you almost everywhere in
¨¨Coverage in the north that utilising its network. Details summer (note: not into the
includes Akureyri to Húsavík, are at www.icelandbybus.is. highlands, or on F roads).
Ásbyrgi and Dettifoss (using Pros: ¨¨In winter heavy snow can
SBA-Norðurleið’s network). ¨¨Services the entire Ring cause many roads to close;
Road (including the west), mountain roads generally
Cons: and has a highland route – only open in June and
¨¨A gap in Ring Road Kjölur. may start closing as early
coverage in West Iceland, ¨¨Passports don’t specify a as September. For up-to-
with circular passes heading time limit. date information on road
north via the highland Kjölur Cons: conditions, visit www.road.is.
route, then taking the Ring ¨¨Limited routes off the Ring ¨¨Don’t be pressured into
Road. Road. renting a GPS unit – if you
The passports: East Circle Passport Reykjavík purchase a good, up-to-date
Circle Passport Reykjavík to to Varmahlíð via the Kjölur route, touring map, and can read
Varmahlíð via the Kjölur route, then follows the Ring Road it, you should be fine without
then follows the Ring Road around the country (kr42,900). GPS. If you are planning to
around the country (kr42,000). Full Circle Passport Travels take remote trails, it will be
the Ring Road, pure and simple worthwhile.
Beautiful South Passport (kr36,900).
Travel along the full south Ultimate Passport Travels Bring Your Own
coast (Reykjavík to Höfn); the Ring Road, plus Landman- Vehicle
includes routes to Gullfoss, nalaugar and Þórsmörk, and
Þórsmörk, Landmannalaugar includes two day trips from Car hire in Iceland is expen-
and Lakagígar (3/5/9/11 Reykjavík, covering the Golden sive, so bringing your own
days kr24,500/36,000/ Circle and Reykjanes Peninsula vehicle may not be as crazy
53,000/60,500). (kr69,900). as it sounds. The Smyril Line
Highland Hikers Passport ferry from Denmark is busy
Beautiful South Circle Pass- Covering Landmannalaugar, in summer bringing vehicles
port South coast (Reykjavík to Þórsmörk and Skógar; valid for to Iceland from all over Eu-
Skaftafell), plus Landmannal- bus transfer to the start of your rope (book well ahead).
augar (kr22,000). hike, and from the end point
Highlights Passport Kjölur and (kr12,500). For temporary duty-free
the Sprengisandur routes, plus importation, drivers
south coast and northern area Car & Motorcycle must carry the vehicle’s
around Akureyri and Húsavík; registration documents,
no coverage in the east, from Driving in Iceland gives you proof of valid insurance (a
Mývatn to Höfn (7/11/15 days unparalleled freedom to ‘green card’ if your car isn’t
kr46,500/66,000/80,000). discover the country and, registered in a Nordic or
Highland Circle Passport Valid thanks to (relatively) good EU-member country) and a
for one circular route taking in roads and (relatively) light driving licence.
the Sprengisandur and Kjölur traffic, it’s all fairly straight-
routes; also covers Reykjavík to forward. Permission for temporary
Skaftafell (kr44,000). ¨¨The Ring Road (Rte 1) duty-free importation of
Combo Passport Combines circles the country and, a vehicle is granted at the
the Ring Road (except for except for a couple of small point of arrival for up to 12
the western part) and the stretches in East Iceland, is months, and is contingent
two highland routes, plus a paved. upon agreeing to not lend or
few additional routes in the ¨¨Beyond the Ring Road, sell your vehicle. For more
north and south (7/11/15 days fingers of sealed road or information, contact the Di-
kr58,000/77,000/91,500). rectorate of Customs (www.
Hiking Passport This is the customs.is).
best-seller, and with good
reason. If you’re hiking Laugarve- If you’re staying for a long
gur, you can be dropped off at period, you might consider
shipping your own vehicle via
Eimskip (www.eimskip.is)
shipping services. Be aware
that this is far from cheap,

Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M otorc y c l e404 Permit (normally issued by ¨¨Some Icelandic roads can
and involves heavy paper- your home country’s auto- be pretty lonely, so carry a
work, but it may be useful for mobile association). jack, a spare tyre and jump
long-stayers who have lots of leads just in case (check your
gear or a well set-up camp- Fuel & Spare Parts spare when you pick up your
er/4WD. Eimskip has five rental car).
shipping lines in the North ¨¨Petrol stations are
Atlantic. regularly spaced around the ¨¨In the event of a breakdown
country, but in the highlands or accident, your first port of
Driving Licences you should check fuel levels call should be your car-hire
and the distance to the next agency.
You can drive in Iceland with station before setting off.
a driving licence from the ¨¨At the time of research, ¨¨Although the Icelandic
US, Canada, Australia, New unleaded petrol and diesel motoring association Félag
Zealand and most European cost about kr205 (€1.60) Íslenskra Bifreiðaeigenda
countries. If your licence per litre. (FÍB; www.fib.is) is only
is not in Roman script, you open to locals, if you have
need an International Driving

CROSSING RIVERS

While trekking or driving in Iceland’s highlands you’re likely to face unbridged rivers that
must be crossed. There are a few rules to follow.
¨¨Melting snow causes water levels to rise, so the best time to cross is early in the morning
before the day warms up, and preferably no sooner than 24 hours after a rainstorm.
¨¨Avoid narrow stretches, which are likely to be deep – the widest ford is likely to be
shallowest.
¨¨The swiftest, strongest current is found near the centre of straight stretches and at the
outside of bends. Choose a spot with as much slack water as possible.
¨¨Never try to cross just above a waterfall and avoid crossing streams in flood
(identifiable by dirty, smooth-running water carrying lots of debris and vegetation).

For Hikers
¨¨A smooth surface suggests that the river is too deep to be crossed on foot. Anything more
than thigh-deep isn’t crossable without being experienced and having extra equipment.
¨¨Before attempting to cross deep or swift-running streams, be sure that you can
jettison your pack midstream if necessary.
¨¨Lone hikers should use a hiking staff to probe the river bottom for the best route and to
steady themselves in the current.
¨¨Never try to cross a stream barefoot. Bring wetsuit boots or sandals if you want to keep
your hiking boots dry.
¨¨While crossing, face upstream and avoid looking down or you risk getting dizzy and losing
balance. Two hikers can steady each other by resting their arms on each other’s shoulders.
¨¨If you fall while crossing, don’t try to stand up. Remove your pack (but don’t let go of
it), roll onto your back and point your feet downstream, then try to work your way to a
shallow eddy or to the shore.

For Drivers
¨¨If you’re not travelling in convoy, consider waiting for other traffic.
¨¨Watch where and how experienced drivers cross.
¨¨You may need to check the depth and speed of the river by wading into it (using
techniques described for hikers, including a hiking staff). A good rule of thumb: if you
would not want to wade through a river you should not drive through it.
¨¨Work with the water – drive diagonally across in the direction of the current, making
sure you’re in a low gear. Drive steadily, without stopping or changing gear, just slightly
faster than the water is flowing (too slow and you risk getting stuck, or letting water up
the exhaust).

405

breakdown cover with an In the height of summer allows for some spontaneity Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M otorc y c l e
automobile association many companies run out of (unlike every other form of
affiliated with ARC Europe rentals. Book ahead. accommodation, campsites
you may be covered by the don’t need to be prebooked).
FÍB – check with your home Many travel organisations Campervanning in winter
association. (eg Hostelling International is possible, but we don’t
¨¨FÍB’s 24-hour breakdown Iceland, Icelandic Farm Hol- particularly recommend it –
number is %511 2112. Even idays) offer package deals there are few facilities open
if you’re not a member, it that include car hire. for campers at this time,
can provide information and and weather conditions may
phone numbers for towing Most companies are make it unsafe.
and breakdown services. based in the Reykjavík and
Keflavík areas, with city and Large car-hire companies
Car Hire airport offices. Larger com- usually have campervans for
panies have extra locations rent, but there are also more
Travelling by car is the only around the country (usually offbeat choices, offering
way to get to some parts in Akureyri and Egilsstaðir). from backpacker-centric
of Iceland. Although car- Ferry passengers arriving via to family-sized, or real 4WD
hire rates are expensive Seyðisfjörður should contact set-ups. Some companies
by international standards car-hire agencies in nearby offer gear rental to help your
(actually the most expensive Egilsstaðir. trip go smoothly (GPS, cook-
in Europe, according to one ing gear and stove, barbecue,
recent study), they compare Car-hire companies: sleeping bags, camping
favourably to bus or internal Átak (www.atak.is) chairs, fishing equipment,
air travel, especially if there Avis (www.avis.is) portable wi-fi hot spots etc).
are a few of you to split the Budget (www.budget.is) Camper Iceland (www.camper
costs. Shop around and book Cars Iceland (www.carsiceland. iceland.is)
online for the best deals. com) Go Campers (www.
Cheap Jeep (www.cheapjeep.is) gocampers.is)
To rent a car you must be Europcar (www.europcar.is) The Happy Campers (www.happy
20 years old (23 to 25 years biggest hire company in Iceland. campers.is)
for a 4WD) and hold a valid Geysir (www.geysir.is) JS Camper Rental (www.js.is)
licence. Go Iceland (www.goiceland. Truck campers on 4WD pick-ups.
com) Rent Nordic (www.rent.is)
The cheapest cars, usu- Hertz (www.hertz.is)
ally a small hatchback or SADcars (www.sadcars.com) MOTORCYCLE HIRE
similar, cost from around Older fleet, therefore (theoreti- Biking Viking (www.rmc.is/en/
kr10,000 to kr12,000 per cally) cheaper prices. biking-viking) offers motorcycle
day in high season (June to Saga (www.sagacarrental.is) rental, tours and service.
August). Figure on paying
from around kr15,000 for CAR SHARING Insurance
the smallest 4WD that offers A peer-to-peer car-sharing
higher clearance than a platform called Cario (www. A vehicle registered in Nordic
regular car but isn’t advised cario.com) offers people or EU-member countries
for large river crossings, and the chance to hire privately is considered to have valid
from kr20,000 for a larger owned cars from locals. If automobile insurance in
4WD model. you take up this option, do Iceland. If your vehicle is
your homework and assess registered in a non-Nordic or
Rates include unlimited the costs and the small non-EU country, you’ll need
mileage and VAT (a hefty print – from our research, a ‘green card’, which proves
24%), and usually collision some prices were not much that you are insured to drive
damage waiver (CDW). different than those of while in Iceland. Green cards
car-rental companies; cars are issued by insurance com-
Weekly rates offer some were much older; and you panies in your home country;
discount. From September don’t have the reassurance contact your existing insurer.
to May you should be able to of a company behind you to
find considerably better daily help if things go wrong. When hiring a car, check
rates and deals. the small print; most vehi-
CAMPERVAN HIRE cles come with third-party
Check the small print, as Combining accommoda- insurance and CDW to cover
additional costs such as ex- tion and transport costs you for damage to the car.
tra insurance, airport pick-up into campervan rental is a Also check the excess (the
charges and one-way rental booming option – and has initial amount you will be
fees can add up. extra appeal in summer, as it liable to pay in the event of
an accident) as this can be
In winter you should opt surprisingly high.
for a larger, sturdier car for
safety reasons, preferably
with 4WD (ie absolutely not a
compact 2WD).

406 Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M otorc y c l e Unsurfaced roads The transition At-risk areas are marked with
Hire vehicles are not cov- from sealed to gravel roads is orange warning signs.
marked with the warning sign F roads Roads suitable for 4WD
ered for damage to tyres, ‘Malbik Endar’ – slow right down vehicles only are F-numbered.
headlights and windscreens, to avoid skidding when you hit River crossings Few interior
or damage caused to the the gravel. Most accidents involv- roads have bridges over rivers.
car’s underside by driving on ing foreign drivers in Iceland are Fords are marked on maps with
dirt roads, through water or caused by the use of excessive a ‘V’.
in ash- or sandstorms. Many speed on unsurfaced roads. If Tunnels There are a number of
companies will try to sell you your car does begin to skid, take tunnels in Iceland – a couple
additional insurance to cover your foot off the accelerator and are single lane, and a little
these possibilities. You need gently turn the car in the direc- anxiety-inducing! Before you
to consider whether this is tion you want the front wheels to enter such tunnels, a sign will
appropriate for you and your go. Do not brake. indicate which direction has right
plans, and how prepared you Blind rises In most cases roads of way. There will be a couple of
are to cough up in the event have two lanes with steeply pull-over bays inside the tunnel
of such occurrences (and the cambered sides and no hard (signed ‘M’). If the passing bay
cost of the insurance versus shoulder; be prepared for is on your side in the tunnel, you
factors such as the length of oncoming traffic in the centre of are obligated to pull in and let
your rental and what regions the road, and slow down and stay oncoming traffic pass you.
you plan to visit). There is no to the right when approaching a
way of predicting what cli- blind rise, marked as ‘Blindhæð’ Road Rules
matic conditions you might on road signs.
meet on your trip. Single-lane bridges Slow down ¨¨Drive on the right.
and be prepared to give way ¨¨Front and rear seatbelts
Road Conditions & when approaching single-lane are compulsory.
Hazards bridges (marked as ‘Einbrei𠨨Dipped headlights must be
Brú’). Right of way is with the car on at all times.
Good main-road surfaces closest to the bridge. ¨¨Blood alcohol limit is
and light traffic (especially Sun glare With the sun often 0.05%.
outside the capital and sitting low to the horizon, sun- ¨¨Mobile phone use is
southwest region) make glasses are recommended. prohibited when driving
driving in Iceland relatively Winter conditions In winter except with a hands-free kit.
easy, but there are some make sure your car is fitted with ¨¨Children under six years
specific hazards. Watch the snow tyres or chains; and carry a must use a car seat.
‘Drive Safely on Icelandic shovel, blankets, food and water. ¨¨Do not drive off-road (ie
Roads’ video on www.drive.is Ash and sandstorms Volcanic off marked roads and 4WD
for more. ash and severe sandstorms can trails).
Livestock Sheep graze in the strip paint off cars; strong winds
countryside over the summer, can even topple your vehicle.
and often wander onto roads.
Slow down when you see live-
stock on or near roadsides.

F ROADS

We can think of a few choice F words for these bumpy, at times almost-nonexistent tracts
of land, but in reality the ‘F’ stands for fjall (mountain). Do not confuse F roads with gravel
stretches of road (regular gravel roads are normally fine for 2WDs, although some of
them are bumpy rides for small, low-clearance cars).
¨¨F roads are indicated on maps and road signs with an ‘F’ preceding the road number
(F26, F88 etc).

¨¨Opening dates vary with weather conditions, but are generally around mid- to late June.

¨¨F roads only support 4WDs. If you travel on F roads in a hired 2WD you’ll invalidate your
insurance. F roads are unsafe for small cars: do yourself a favour and steer clear, or hire a
4WD (or take a bus or super-Jeep tour).

¨¨Before tackling any F road, educate yourself about what lies ahead (eg river crossings)
and whether or not the entire route is open. See www.road.is for mountain-road opening
details.

¨¨While some F roads may almost blend into the surrounding nature, driving off marked
tracks is strictly prohibited everywhere in Iceland, as it damages fragile ecosystems.

407

BUYING FUEL Tr a nsp o rt H itching & R ide- S haring

Most smaller petrol stations are unstaffed, and all pumps are automated. There is the
(time-consuming) option of going inside a staffed service station to ask staff to switch
the pump to manual, enabling you to fill up and pay for your fuel afterwards. To fill up
using the automated service:

¨¨Put your credit card into the machine’s slot (you’ll need a card with a four-digit PIN)
and follow the instructions.

¨¨The next step is determined by the type of payment machine. On newer touchscreens
you can press ‘Full Tank’, or you input the maximum amount you wish to spend, then wait
while the pump authorises your purchase. Entering a maximum amount pre-approves
your card for that capped amount, but you are only charged for the cost of the fuel put into
your vehicle (this can be any amount you wish, up to the pre-approved capped amount).

¨¨Select the pump number you are using.

¨¨Fill tank.

¨¨If you require a receipt, re-enter your card into the slot.

The first time you fill up, visit a staffed station while it’s open, in case you have any problems.
Note that you need a PIN for your card to use the automated pumps. If you don’t have a PIN,
buy prepaid cards from an N1 station that you can then use at the automated pumps.

Speed Limits portant, too – be savvy about running to Akranes, Bor-
where you position yourself. garnes, Hveragerði, Selfoss
¨¨Built-up areas: 50km/h. Try standing at junctions, and Hvalfjarðarsveit. See
¨¨Unsealed roads: 80km/h. near petrol stations or even www.straeto.is for informa-
¨¨Sealed roads: 90km/h. by Bónus supermarkets. tion on routes, fares and
timetables.
Hitching & When you arrive at your
Ride-Sharing accommodation it can’t hurt Local bus networks op-
to let people know where erate in Akureyri, Ísafjörður,
Hitching is never entirely you’re aiming for the next and the Reykjanesbær and
safe, and we don’t recom- day. There may be another Eastfjords areas.
mend it. Travellers who traveller going that way who
hitch should understand can give you a ride. Check out Taxi
that they are taking a small Carpooling in Iceland (www.
but potentially serious risk. samferda.is) for rides – note Most taxis in Iceland operate
Nevertheless, we met scores there is an expectation that in the Reykjavík area, but
of tourists who were hitching passengers will contribute to many of the larger towns also
their way around Iceland and fuel costs. offer services. Outside of
most had positive reports. Reykjavík, it’s usually wise to
Single female travellers and Local Transport prebook.
couples tend to get a lift the
quickest. Bus Taxis are metered and
can be pricey. Tipping is not
Patience is a prerequisite Reykjavík has an extensive expected.
of hitching, and logic is im- network of local buses con-
necting all the suburbs, and At the time of research,
there were no Uber and Lyft
services in Iceland (yet).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Language

Icelandic belongs to the Germanic language READING ICELANDIC
family, which includes German, English,
Dutch and all the Scandinavian languages Letter Pronunciation
except Finnish. It’s related to Old Norse, and Á á ow (as in ‘how’)
retains the letters ‘eth’ (ð) and ‘thorn’ (þ), Đ ð dh (as the ‘th’ in ‘that’)
which also existed in Old English. Be aware, É é ye (as in ‘yet’)
especially when you’re trying to read bus Í í ee (as in ‘see’)
timetables or road signs, that place names Ó ó oh (as the ‘o’ in ‘note’)
can be spelled in several different ways due to Ú ú oo (as in ‘too’)
Icelandic grammar rules. Ý ý ee (as in ‘see’)
Þ þ th (as in ‘think’)
Most Icelanders speak English, so you’ll Æ æ ai (as in ‘aisle’)
have no problems if you don’t know any Ice- Ö ö eu (as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’)
landic. However, any attempts to speak the
local language will be much appreciated. Yes. Já. yow

If you read our coloured pronunciation No. Nei. nay
guides as if they were English, you’ll be under-
stood. Keep in mind that double consonants HHvoawðasreegyiroþuú?gott? kvadh se·yir thoo got
are given a long pronunciation. Note also that
öy in our pronunciation guides is like the ‘-er y-’ Fine. And you? alt feent en thoo
in ‘her year’ (without the ‘r’) and that kh is like Allt fínt. En þú?
the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch. Stress generally

falls on the first syllable in a word.

BASICS What’s your name? kvadh hay·tir thoo
Hvað heitir þú?

Hello. Halló. ha·loh My name is … yekh hay·ti …
Ég heiti …
Good morning. Góđan daginn. gohth-ahn dai-in
Do you speak English?
Goodbye. Bless. bles Talar þú ensku? ta·lar thoo ens·ku

Good evening. Gott kvöld. khot kverld I don’t understand.
Ég skil ekki.
Good night. Gođa nótt. khoh-th-ah noht yekh skil e·ki

Thank you Takk./Takk fyrir. tak/tak fi·rir It will be OK. thah-tah rah-dohst
Þetta reddast.
Excuse me. Afsakið. af·sa·kidh

Sorry. Fyrirgefðu. fi·rir·gev·dhu DIRECTIONS

Where’s the (hotel)? kvar er (hoh·te·lidh)
Hvar er (hótelið)?

WANT MORE? Can you show me (on the map)?
Geturðu sýnt mér ge·tur·dhu seent myer
For in-depth language information (á kortinu)? (ow kor·ti·nu)
and handy phrases, check out Lonely
Planet’s phrasebooks range. You’ll find What’s your address?
them at shop.lonelyplanet.com. Hvert er heimilisfangið kvert er hay·mi·lis·fan·gidh
þitt? thit

409

EATING & DRINKING NUMBERS aydn
tvayr
What would you recommend? 1 einn threer
Hverju mælir þú með? kver·yu mai·lir thoo medh 2 tveir fyoh·rir
3 þrír fim
Do you have vegetarian food? 4 fjórir seks
Hafið þið ha·vidh thidh 5 fimm syeu
grænmetisrétti? grain·me·tis·rye·ti 6 sex ow·ta
7 sjö nee·u
I’ll have a … yekh ait·la adh fow … 8 átta tee·u Language EATING & DRINKING
Ég ætla að fá … 9 níu tu·tu·gu
10 tíu throw·tee·u
Cheers! skowl 20 tuttugu fyeur·tee·u
Skál! 30 þrjátíu fim·tee·u
40 fjörutíu seks·tee·u
I’d like a/the Get ég get yekh 50 fimmtíu syeu·tee·u
…, please. fengið …, takk. fen·gidh … tak 60 sextíu ow·ta·tee·u
70 sjötíu nee·tee·u
table for borð fyrir bordh fi·rir 80 áttatíu hun·dradh
(four) (fjóra) (fyoh·ra) 90 níutíu
100 hundrað
bill reikninginn rayk·nin·gin

drink list vínseðillinn veen·se·dhit·lin

menu matseðillinn mat·se·dhit·lin

that dish þennan rétt the·nan ryet

bottle of (beer) (bjór)flösku (byohr)·fleus·ku

(cup of) kaffi/te ka·fi/te
coffee/tea (bolla) (bot·la)

glass of (wine) (vín)glas (veen)·glas

water vatn vat

breakfast morgunmat mor·gun·mat

lunch hádegismat how·de·yis·mat

dinner kvöldmat kveuld·mat That’s too expensive.

EMERGENCIES Þetta er of dýrt. the·ta er of deert

Help! Hjálp! hyowlp It’s faulty. thadh er gat·ladh
Það er gallað.
Go away! Farðu! far·dhu
Where’s the …? Hvar er …? kvar er …
Call …! Hringdu á …! hring·du ow …
bank bankinn bown·kin
a doctor lækni laik·ni
market markaðurinn mar·ka·dhu·rin
the police lögregluna leu·rekh·lu·na
post office pósthúsið pohst·hoo·sidh

I’m lost. TRANSPORT
Ég er villtur/villt. (m/f) yekh er vil·tur/vilt

Where are the toilets? Can we get there by public transport?
Hvar er snyrtingin? kvar er snir·tin·gin Er hægt að taka er haikht adh ta·ka

rútu þangað? roo·tu thown·gadh

SHOPPING & SERVICES Where can I buy a ticket?
Hvar kaupi ég miða? kvar köy·pi yekh mi·dha
I’m looking for …
Ég leita að … yekh lay·ta adh … Is this the … Er þetta … er the·ta …
to (Akureyri)? til (Akureyrar)? til (a·ku·ray·rar)
How much is it?
Hvað kostar þetta? kvadh kos·tar the·ta boat ferjan fer·yan

SIGNS bus rútan roo·tan

Inngangur plane flugvélin flukh·vye·lin
Útgangur
Opið Entrance
Lokað Exit
Bannað Open
Snyrting Closed
Prohibited
Toilets

410

What time’s Hvenær fer … kve·nair fer … I’d like a Get ég get yekh
the … bus? strætisvagninn? strai·tis·vag·nin taxi … fengið fen·gidh
leigubíl … lay·gu·beel …
first fyrsti firs·ti
at (9am) klukkan (níu klu·kan (nee·u
last síðasti see·dhas·ti fyrir hádegi) fi·rir how·de·yi)

One … ticket Einn miða aitn mi·dha tomorrow á morgun ow mor·gun
(to Reykjavík), … (til … (til
Language TRANSPORT please. Reykjavíkur), rayk·ya·vee·kur)
takk. tak How much is it to …? kvadh kos·tar til …
Hvað kostar til … ?

one-way aðra adh·ra Please stop here.
leiðina lay·dhi·na Stoppaðu hér, takk. sto·pa·dhu hyer tak

return fram og fram okh Please take me to (this address).
til baka til ba·ka Viltu aka mér til vil·tu a·ka myer til
(þessa staðar)? (the·sa sta·dhar)

GLOSSARY

See the Icelandic Cuisine districts in the times before to the goals in football, and
chapter (p382) for useful Christianity (singular goði) the earmarks of sheep
words and phrases dealing mudpot – bubbling pool of
with food and dining. hákarl – putrid shark meat superheated mud
hestur – horse
á – river (as in Laxá, or höfn – harbour nes – headland
Salmon River) hot-pot – outdoor hot tub norður – north
álfar – elves or spa pool, found at swim-
austur – east ming baths and some ac- puffling – baby puffin
commodation; in Icelandic,
basalt – hard volcanic rock hot-pot is heitur pottur reykur – smoke, as in Rey-
that often solidifies into hraun – lava field kjavík (literally ‘Smoky Bay’)
hexagonal columns huldufólk – hidden people
bíó – cinema hver – hot spring safn – museum
brennivín – local schnapps sagas – Icelandic legends
bær – farm ice cap – permanently sandur – sand; can also
frozen glacier or mountain top refer to a glacial sand plain
caldera – crater created by Íslands – Iceland scoria – glassy volcanic lava
the collapse of a volcanic shield volcano – gently
cone jökull – glacier, ice cap sloped volcano built up by
fluid lava flows
dalur – valley kirkja – church sími – telephone
kort – map skáli – hut, snack bar
eddas – ancient Norse stræti – street
books Landnámabók – com- suður – south
ey – island prehensive historical text sumar – summer
recording the Norse settle- sundlaug – heated swim-
fell – see fjall ment of Iceland ming pool
fjall – mountain laug – pool; one that is
fjörður – fjord suitable for swimming tephra – rock/material
foss – waterfall lava tube – underground blasted out from a volcano
fumarole – vents in the tunnel created by liquid lava tjörn – pond, lake
earth releasing volcanic gas flowing under a solid crust torg – town square
lón – lagoon
gata – street lopapeysa/lopapeysur vatn – lake, water
geyser – spouting hot (sg/pl) – Icelandic woollen vegur – road
spring sweater vestur – west
gistiheimilið – guesthouse lundi – puffin vetur – winter
gjá – fissure, rift vík – bay
goðar – political and re- mörk – woods or forest; vogur – cove, bay
ligious leaders of certain colloquially mörk also refers

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 411

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Alexis Averbuck

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last My work on Iceland was a labour of love supported
edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful by many. Big thanks to Heimir Hansson (Westfjords),
advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna Brunner & Jón Björnsson (Hornstrandir), Dagný Jóhannsdóttir
Jessica Brooke, Bart Streefkerk, Cliff & Helen Elsey, (Southwest), Kristján Guðmundsson (West), Rag-
Daniel Crouch, Elena Kagi, Eyþór Jóvinsson, Fiorella nheiður Sylvía Kjartansdóttir (Reykjavík and every-
Taddeo, Gudrun Stefansdottir, Helen Simpson, Ildiko where!), Einar Sæmundsen (Þingvellir) and Helga
Lorik, Janire Echevarri, John Gerrard, John Malone, Garðarsdóttir (Laugavegurinn). Svava Guðjónsdóttir
Joshua Wood, Keela Shackell-Smith, Klavs Hendil, kept my statistics accurate. Edda and Páll made
Linda Moore, Ling-Shao Chang, Lisa Romano, Lori Húsafell so, so special! Carolyn was once again a
Zoras, Marco Conti, Marianne Backman, Marlies Van brilliant, generous, astute collaborator. Respect to
Hoef, Martin Fettke, Matt Kurz, Melanie Zahnd, Peter James for his great care. Rachel, Jenny, Oren and
Gordon, Peter Madsen, Peter Stern, Richard Owen, Timothy were amazing BOB-sters, making Icelandic
Ryan Nix, Sarah Britton, Sebastian Steel, Semir Jahic, escapades a family adventure. Ryan = peachy.
Sonia Martinez, Steve Eldridge, Sylvia Perez, Terry
Bedard, Victoria Courtney, Vidal de Freitas Mansano ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

WRITER THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson
BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the
Carolyn Bain Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and
Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
I wish I had the space to thank every Icelander (and Cover photograph: Geothermal field, Kerlingarfjöll,
expat and fellow traveller) who, over the course of my Martin M303/Shutterstock ©
visits, has helped me see more, understand more and
enjoy more – from guesthouse owners and national
park rangers to highland tour drivers. A heartfelt
takk fyrir to so many people for great conversations,
invaluable information and so many acts of kindness.
Cheers to James Smart for my favourite gig, and
bouquets to my superb project collaborator, Alexis
Averbuck.

412 This guidebook was produced Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson,
by the following: Saralinda Turner
BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Destination Editor James Cartographer James Leversha
Smart Cover Researcher Naomi
This 10th edition of Lonely Product Editor Tracy Whitmey Parker
Planet’s Iceland guidebook Senior Cartographer David Thanks to Imogen Bannister,
was researched and written Kemp Dan Corbett, Gemma Graham,
by Carolyn Bain and Alexis Book Designers Cam Ashley, Jane Grisman, Paul Harding,
Averbuck. The previous edition Gwen Cotter Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones,
was also written by Carolyn Assisting Editors Michelle Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor,
and Alexis. The 8th edition was Bennett, Bella Li, Anne Karyn Noble and Victoria
written by Brandon Presser, Mulvaney, Kristin Odijk, Smith
Carolyn Bain and Fran Parnell.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 413

Index ALPHABETICAL ORDER

The Icelandic letters Þ and Ö appear at the end of the
alphabet after the letter Z.

100 Crater Park 109 architecture 23, 376 Berserkjahraun 185 Breiðamerkurfjall 327
Arctic Fox Center 212, 213 Berufjörður 308-9 Breiðamerkursandur 327
A Arctic foxes 39-40, 212, bicycle travel, see cycling Breiðavík (Snæfellsnes) 192
Bíldudalur 203-4 Breiðavík (Westfjords) 200
accommodation 23, 388-91, 213, 130 birds 40, 367 Breiðdalsvík 308
392 see also individual Arctic Henge 281 birdwatching Breiðdalur 307-8
locations area codes 397 Brennisteinsalda 146
Árnarhóll 65 Borgarfjörður Eystri 295 Brennugjá 112
activities 24, 38-47, see also Arnarstapi 191-2, 31 Langanes 283 Bridge Between Two
individual activities Arnarvatnsheiði 180 Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs 201
Árnes 129 Stórhöfði 166 Continents 109
Áfangar 98 art galleries, see museums western Mývatn 267-8 Brimurð 166
air travel see also flight Þúfubjarg bird cliffs 190 Brjánslækur 200
& galleries Bjarnarfjörður 219 Brydebúð 161
tours Ásbyrgi canyon 278-9 Bjarnarhafnarfjall 186 Búðahraun 192-3
children’s fares 391-2 Ásgrímur Jónsson Bjarnarhöfn Shark Búðardalur 194-5
to/from Iceland 400 Museum 185-6 budgeting 19, 385
within Iceland 401 Collection 65 Blue Lagoon 20, 101-5, Búðir (Fáskrúðsfjörður) 306
Akrafjall 171 ASÍ Art Museum 64 9, 159 Búðir (Snæfellsnes) 192, 34
Akranes 171 Askja 16, 348, 349, 16 Blönduós 226 Búðir (Þingvellir) 113
Akureyri 242-57, 244, 234 Askja route 346-9 boat tours Búland 139
accommodation 247-9 Ásmundur Sveinsson Akureyri 247 Búlandstindur 308
activities 243-5 Heimay 167 Búrfell 129-34
drinking & nightlife 251 sculpture 105 Hofsós 232 bus tours
entertainment 251 ATMs 394 Reykjavík 68-70
festivals & events 247 aurora borealis 9, 27, 73, Siglufjörður 233 Mývatn 262
food 249-50 Stykkishólmur 183 Reykjavík 70-1
shopping 256 156-7, 323, 2, 5, 9, 133, boat travel bus travel
sights 243 156-7 to/from Iceland 400-1 accessible buses 398
tourist information 256 Aurora Reykjavík 59 within Iceland 402 children’s fares 392
tours 245-7 Austurvöllur 55 boating 42 within Iceland 402-3, 407
travel to/from 256-7 Bobby Fischer Center 126 business hours 395, 396
travel within 257 B Bolungarvík 211-12 Bustarfell 283-4
weather 392 books 352, 372-3 Byggðasafnið Hvoll 240
Akureyri Art Museum 243 Baðstofa 191 culture 377, 381
Akureyri Museum 243 Bakkagerði 295-7 fauna 368 C
Aldeyarfoss 259 Bárðarbunga 350 food 382, 384
Aldeyjarfoss 344 Bárðarlaug 191 geology 365 cafes 13
Almannagjá 112 beaches Borg á Mýrum 177-8 camping 20, 391, 389, 392
Alþingi 55 Borgarbyggð 171-81 car travel 403-7, see also
Alþingi Site 112-13 Breiðavík 200 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14,
angelica 368 Djúpalón Beach 190 295-7 road trips
animals 21, 131, 366-8, see Hvallátur 200 Borgarfjördur Museum 175 bringing a vehicle 403-4
also individual animals Ingjaldsandur 205 driving licences 404
Árbæjarlaug 67 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Borgarnes 171-7, 174 F roads 406
Árbær Open Air Museum 66 Bræðslan 26, 296 hire 405
Beach 67 Brákin 175 insurance 405-6
Map Pages 000 Rauðasandur 200 Breiðafjörður 181 internet resources 401
Photo Pages 000 Reynisfjara 155 maps 394
Skarðsvík 194 petrol 404, 407
Sólheimasandur 154
beer 88, 332, 385
festivals 24
microbreweries 82, 86,

88, 242

414

I N D E X C - G car travel continued customs regulations 392 Eldfellshraun 166 Flatey 186
road conditions 406 cycling 44, 67, 68, 401-2, Eldgjá 139 Flateyri 206
road rules 394, 406-7 Eldheimar 164 flight tours 73-4
safety 396, 401, 404, see also mountain electricity 393
406 biking electronica music 373 Akureyri 247
spare parts 404-5 elves 380 Eyjafjallajökull 142
D embassies 392 highlands 339
cathedrals, see churches & emergencies 19, 398, 409 Mývatn 262
cathedrals Dalir 193-5 emigration 231-2 Möðrudalur 270
Dalir Heritage Museum 195 energy 368-70 Reykjavík 73-4
caves, see also ice caves Dalvík 240-1 environmental Skaftafell 321
Arnarstapi 192, 193 dangers, see safety Fljótsdalsheiði 294
Grjótagjá 265 design 23, 376 hazards 396-7 Fljótshlíð 140-1
Hallmundarhraun 180 Dettifoss 280, 32 environmental issues 353 Flóahreppur 125-6
Hellnar 191, 192 Dimmuborgir 266 Erpsstaðir 195 Flói Nature Reserve 123-4
Hljóðaklettar 279 disabilities, travellers Esja 171 Flókalundur 197-200
Höfði 266 Eskifjörður 303-4 Flosagjá 112
Lofthellir 266 with 398 events, see festivals & flowers 367-8
Sönghellir 193 discount cards 397 Flúðir 119-20
Tindastóll 230 diving & snorkelling 44, 73, events Flögufoss 307
Vatnajökull National exchange rates 19 Fontana 114
Park 276-7 113, 242, 45 Exploration Museum 271 food 23, 80, 382-6
Viðgelmir 180 Djúpalón Beach 190 Eyjafjallajökull 253, 362, language 409
Djúpivogur 289, 309-10 tours 383
caving 72 dog sledding 235, 262, 364, 253 foxes, Arctic 39-40, 212,
cell phones 397 Eyjafjallajökull Visitor 213, 130
children, travel with 391-2 234 Freysnes 324
churches & cathedrals Dómkirkja 56 Centre 142 Frostastaðavatn 146
Drangey 230 Eyrarbakki 123-4 frostbite 393
Akureyrarkirkja 243 Drangsnes 218-19 Eyvindur of the fumaroles 365-6
Cathedral (Hólar) 231 Draugasetrið 124-5 fungi 367-8
Dómkirkja 56 Drekagil 348 Mountains 345
Hallgrímskirkja 59 Drekkingarhylur 112 G
Húsavíkurkirkja 271 drinks 88, 384-5, see also F
Landskirkja 166 Gallerí Fold 64
Ólafsvíkurkirkja 188 beer F roads 406 galleries, see museums &
Reykholt Old Church 179 language 409 Fagrifoss 318
Saurbæjarkirkja 171 water 393 Fálkí 194 galleries
Stafkirkjan 164 driving, see car travel farmhouse accommodation Gamla Laugin 119
Stykkishólmskirkja 183 Duushús 105 gardens, see parks &
Víkurkirkja 161 Dynjandi 204, 22 389-90
Þingeyrar 226 Dýrafjörður 205 Faroe Islands 70 gardens
Þingvallakirkja 113 Dyrfjöll 294 Fáskrúðsfjörður 306 Garðskagi headland 108
climate 18, 24-7, 392 Dyrhólaey 154-5 festivals & events 24-7 Garður 108
coffee 83 gas stations 404, 407
consulates 392 E Bræðslan 26, 296 gay travellers 394
credit cards 394, 395 Folk Music Festival 233 genealogy 380-1
cultural centres east Iceland 50, 285-310, Herring Festival 233 genetic research 380-1
Duushús 105 286-7 Rauðasandur geology 279, 364-6
Harpa 59 accommodation 285 geothermal areas
Kaupvangur 283 Dagar Myrkurs 289 Festival 201
Nordic House 65 food 285 Reykjavík Arts Bjarnarflag 268
culture 254-5, 352-3, highlights 286-7 Hveragerði 120
377-81 road distances 285 Festival 374 Hveravellir Nature
Culture House travel to/from 288 Þjóðhátíð 26, 167
(Húsavík) 271 travel within 288 film locations 375 Reserve 342
Culture House films 352, 370, 375-6 Hverir 269
(Reykjavík) 64 eastern Mývatn 265-6 geothermal energy 368-9
currency 395 Eastfjords 295-307 Fimmvörðuháls 14, 144, 15 geothermal pools 9, see
economics 362 Fischer, Bobby 126 also hot springs
Map Pages 000 Eddas 137 fishing Árbæjarlaug 67
Photo Pages 000 Egil’s Saga 176 Blue Lagoon 20, 101-5,
Egilsstaðir 288-92, 290 Breiðdalur 307
Einar Jónsson Museum 65 Flateyri 206 9, 159
Eiríksstaðir 194 Reykjavík 70 Bjarnarfjörður 219
Eldfell 166, 167 Seyðisfjörður 299 Drangsnes 219
Fjaðrárgljúfur 325
Fjallabak Route 139
Fjalla-Eyvindur 345

Fjallsárlón 327, 13
Fláajökull 330, 331

415

Fontana 114 Greater Reykjavík 98-9 travel to/from 342 holidays 395-6 INDE X G - H
Gamla Laugin 119 Greenland 73 travel within 338, 342 Hólmavík 218
Grettislaug 230 Grímsey 260-1 hiking 21, 39 Holuhraun 20, 348-9
Hveragerði 120 Grímsvötn 322 Akureyri 245 Hornstrandir Peninsula
Hveravellir Nature Grindavík 109-10 Borgarfjörður to
Grjótagjá 265 214-17, 215
Reserve 342 Grundarfjörður 186-8 Seyðisfjörður 296 horse riding 42, 72, 43
Laugafell 344 Guðrúnarlaug 195 Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi 278
Laugardalslaug 67 Gullfoss 117 Dyrfjöll 294 Árnes 129
Laugarvatn 114-15 Gunnuhver 109 eastern Mývatn 266 Akureyri 246
Lýsuhólslaug 193 Egilsstaðir 289 Borgarnes 175
Mývatn Nature H Eskifjörður 304
Fimmvörðuháls 14, Breiðavík 192
Baths 268 Hafnaberg 109 Breiðdalur 307
Nauthólsvík Geothermal Hafnarfjall 178 144, 15 Eyjafjallajökull 142
Hafnarfjörður 99 highlands, the 346 Gauksmýri 226
Beach 67 Hafnarhólmi 295 Hornstrandir 216 Geysir 116
Norðurfjörður 220 Hafrahvammagljúfur Hvannadalshnúkur 325-7 Grindavík 109
Reykjadalur 121 Ísafjörður 207 Heimaey 167
Reykjarfjarðarlaug 204 canyon 294 Kjölur 344 Hólmavík 218
Reykjavík 67 Háifoss 134 Landmannalaugar 146 Húsavík 273
Selfoss 126 Hali 328 Laugavegurinn 148-9, Hveragerði 122
Seljavallalaug 142 Ísafjörður 208
Suðureyri 206 Hallgrímskirkja 59, 2 151, 150 Lýsuhóll 193
Sundhöllin 67 Hallmundarhraun 180 northern Mývatn 268 Neskaupstaður 305
Sundlaugin Hellu 136 Hallormsstaðaskógur safety 396-7, 404 Reykjavík 72
Tálknafjörður 203 Seyðisfjörður 299 Varmahlíð 227
Tindastóll 230 292-3 Siglufjörður 233 Þingvellir National
Vesturbæjarlaug 67 Skaftafell 320-1
Gerðarsafn Art Harpa 59-64, 255 Snæfell 295 Park 113
Museum 98-9 Haukadalur 116 Vatnajökull National Þjórsárdalur 134-5
Gerðuberg 193 health 393 horses, see Icelandic
geysers 365-6 Heiðmörk Nature Park 331 horses
western Mývatn 268
Geysir 116-17, 29 Reserve 66-7 Þórsmörk 152 hot springs 365-6, 237,
ghosts 380 history 22, 354-63 see also geothermal
Giantess 105 Heimaey 163-9, 165, 16 Danish rule 358 pools
Gjáin 134 Heimaklettur 164 financial crisis 361-3 Gunnuhver 109
glacier walks 42, 72 Heinabergsjökull 330, 331 first national Krauma 178
glaciers & ice caps 366 heitur pottur, see hot-pots Landmannalaugar 146
assembly 355-7 Reykhólar Sea Baths 197
Fláajökull 330, 331 Hekla 135, 253, 252 independence 359-60 Seltún 110
Heinabergsjökull 330, Hekla Center 134 Irish monks 354
Helgafell (Heimaey) 166 Norwegian influence 358 hot-pots 9, see also 
331 Helgafell (Stykkishólmur) Saga Age 357-8 geothermal pools
Hoffellsjökull 330, 331 Sturlung Age 357-8
Kverkjökull 349-50 185, 188 US military Hrauneyjar 344-5
Kvíárjökull 327 Hella 136-8 Hraunfossar 179
Langjökull 180 Hellisgerði 99 presence 360 Hrífunes 316
Mýrdalsjökull 154 Hellisheiði Geothermal Vikings 354-5, 356 Hrísey 251
Skaftafellsjökull 321 WWII 360 Hrútafjörður 224
Snæfellsjökull 190 Power Plant 121 hitching 407 huldufólk 380
Sólheimajökull 154 Hellissandur 189 Hjálparfoss 129 Húnaflói 224
Svínafellsjökull 324 Hellnahellir 134 Hjalteyri 241 Húsafell 179-80
Vatnajökull 329 Hellnahraun 191 Hjarðarholt 195
Gljúfurárbui 141 Hellnar 191 Hlíðarendi 141 Húsavík 270-6, 272
Gluggafoss 141 Hengifoss 293 Hljómskálagarður Húsavík Whale
Glymur 171 Herðubreið 348 Park 57-8
Goðafoss 258-9 Herðubreiðarlindir 347-8 HNLFÍ Health Clinic & Museum 270-1
Goðaland 152 Herjólfsdalur 166 Spa 122 Húsey 300
Golden Circle 48, 100, Herring Era Museum 233 Hof 326 Húsið á Eyrarbakka 124
111-20, 102-3 Highlands National Hoffellsjökull 330, 331 Hvalfjörður 171
golf 166, 245 Hvallátur 200
Grænavatn 110-11 Park 347 Hofsós 231-2, 12 Hvammstangi 180, 224-5
great skuas 319 Hólar í Hjaltadalur 231 Hvannadalshnúkur 325-6
highlands, the 50, 338-50, Hólaskjól 139 Hveradalir 343

340-1 Hveragerði 120-3, 121
highlights 338, 340-1
history 345, 349
planning 338, 342
tours 339, 346-7

416

INDEX H-M Hveragerði Stone & tourist information 398 Kling & Bang 64 Vatnshellir 190
Geology Exhibition 121 transport 401 Kolugljúfur 226 Viðgelmir 180
Ísafjarðardjúp 212-17 Kópasker 281 Laxness, Halldór 111, 373
Hveravellir Nature Ísafjörður 207-11, 208 Kópavogur 98-9 legal matters 391, 394
Reserve 342-3 islands Leifsbúð 194
Drangey 230 Krafla 269-70, 262 LGBTI travellers 90, 394
Hverfisgallerí 64 Grímsey 260-1 Krauma 178 Library of Water 181-3
Hverfjall 265 Hrísey 251 Krýsuvík 99 lighthouses
Hvítá river 118 Viðey 98 Kverkfjöll 349-50 Malarrif 190
Hvítárvatn 342 Vigur 211 Kverkfjöll route 349-50 Reykjanesviti 109
Hvítserkur 225 itineraries 28-35, 237, 28, Kvíkan 109 Listasafn Árnesinga 121
Hvolsvöllur 138-40 30, 33, 34 literature 137, 371
hydroelectric power 368-9 L live music 374
hypothermia 393 J Ljósafoss Power
Lagarfljót 292-4 Station 113
Höfn 333-6, 334 Jeep tours 37, 69, 71 Lagarfljótsormur 292 Ljótipollur 146
Höfði 266 Askja route 346-7 lagoons 21-2 Lofthellir 266
Hörðubreið lookout 139 east Iceland 289 Lakagígar 317-18 Lómagnúpur 318-19
Höskuldsstaðir 195 Egilsstaðir 289 lakes Lóndrangar 190
Geysir 116 Lónsöræfi 337
I highlands, the 342, Grænavatn 110-11
346-7 Kleifarvatn 110 lopapeysur 94, 255
i8 64 Kjölur route 339 Laugarvatn 114-16 Lýsuhóll 193
ice caps, see glaciers & Kverkfjöll route 349 Mývatn 259-69, 262 Lýsuhólslaug 193
Lónsöræfi 337 Tjörnin 55 Lögberg 112-13
ice caps Mývatn 261
Patreksfjörður 202 Víti (Askja) 348, 349, 16 M
ice caves 235, 235, 252 Vatnajökull 329, 330 Víti (Krafla) 269
Kverkfjöll 349-50 Vík 161 Þingvallavatn 113 Mælifell 163
Skaftafell 321-2, 323 Þórsmörk 152-3 Öskjuvatn 348, 349 magazines 397
Laki 317-18
ice climbing 72 Jón Sigurðsson Memorial Landlyst 164 Magni 253, 253
Icelandic Airwaves 27 Museum 204 Malarrif 190
Icelandic Emigration Landmannalaugar 146-8, 38 maps 370, 394
Jónsson, Einar 65 Landskirkja 166 measures 397
Center 231-2 Jökuldalur 139 Langanes 283 medical services 393
Icelandic Folk Music Jökulsárgljúfur (Vatnajökull Langisjór 139 Melrakkaey 187
microbreweries 82, 86, 88,
Centre 233 National Park – North) Langjökull 180-1, 31
Icelandic Folk & Outsider 276-80 language 408-10 242, see also beer
Jökulsárlón 11, 327-9, 2, Látrabjarg Peninsula 200-1 midges 265
Art Museum 258 5, 10, 41 Laugafell 344 midnight sun tours 246
Icelandic Goat Centre 179 Laugar 195 Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar
Icelandic Horse History K Laugar Spa 67
Laugardalslaug 67 Museum 200
Centre 231 Kaldidalur Corridor 180-1 Laugardalur 66 Mjóifjörður 213, 302
Icelandic Horse Park – Kárahnjúkar dam 294 Laugarvatn 114-16 mobile phones 397
Katla 253 Laugavegurinn hike 148-9, Móði 253
Fákasel 123 Katla Geopark 160 money 19, 394-5
Icelandic horses 123, 231, kayaking 42-4 151, 150, 38 motorcycle travel 403-7,
laundry 397
227, 367, 12, 159, see Flateyri 206 lava caves, see caves see also car travel,
also horse riding Seyðisfjörður 299 lava fields road trips
Icelandic language 408-10 Þórshöfn 282 mountain biking, see also
Icelandic Museum of Rock Keflavík 105-8, 106 Bárðarbunga 350 cycling
‘n’ Roll 105 Kelduhverfi 276 Berserkjahraun 185 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 314
Icelandic Phallological Keldur 138 Dimmuborgir 266 Lakagígar 318
Museum 64 Kerið 119 Holuhraun 348-9 museums & galleries, see
Imagine Peace Tower 98 Kerlingarfjöll 343 Lakagígar 317-18 also cultural centres
immigration 398-9, 400 Kervíkurfjall 166 Leirhnjúkur 269 Akureyri Art
Ingjaldsandur 205 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 314-17 northern Mývatn 268 Museum 243
Ingólfshöfði 326-7 Kirkjufell 139, 186, 133 LAVA – Iceland Volcano & Akureyri Museum 243
insurance Kjölur route 339, 342-3 Earthquake Center 138 Árbær Open Air
car 405-6 Kleifarvatn 110 lava tubes 72 Museum 66
health 393-4 Snæfellsjökull National-
internet access 394
internet resources 59 Park 189-90
accessible travel 398

Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000

417

Ásgrímur Jónsson Museum of Icelandic Víkingaheimar 105 food 221 I N D E X M - P
Collection 65 Sorcery & Volcano Museum 181 highlights 222-3
Witchcraft 218 Westfjords Heritage itineraries 246
ASÍ Art Museum 64 road distances 221
Bjarnarhöfn Shark National Gallery of Museum 207 Northern Lights 9, 27, 73,
Iceland 64-5 Whales of Iceland 59 156-7, 323, 2, 5, 9, 133,
Museum 185-6 Wilderness Center 293 156-7
Borgarfjördur National Museum 65 Þórbergssetur 329-30 northern Mývatn 268-9
Natural History music 373-4 Núpsstaður 319
Museum 175 music festivals Nýidalur 344
Brydebúð 161 Museum 212 Bræðslan 26 NÝLO 64
Bustarfell 283-4 Natural History Museum Eistnaflug 26
Byggðasafnið Hvoll 240 Folk Music Festival 26 O
Culture House of Kópavogur 99 Iceland Airwaves 27
Nonnahús 243 Reykjavík Jazz Oddi 137
(Húsavík) 271 Nonsense Museum 206 Ofanleitishamar 166
Culture House Norska Húsið 181 Festival 27 Ólafsfjörður 239-40
NÝLO 64 Secret Solstice 25-6 Ólafsvík 188
(Reykjavík) 64 Old Blacksmith’s Skálholt Summer Ólafsvíkurkirkja 188
Dalir Heritage Old Blacksmith’s
Workshop 204 Concerts 26
Museum 195 Old Bookstore in Mýrdalsjökull 154 Workshop 204
Duushús 105 Mýrdalssandur 163 Old Harbour 58
Einar Jónsson Flateyri 206 Old Reykjavík 54
Ósvör Maritime Mývatn 259-69, 262 Omnom Chocolate 59
Museum 65 Möðrudalur 270 opening hours 395, 396
Eldheimar 164 Museum 211-12 Orgelsmiðjan 125
Exploration Museum 271 Pakkhúsið N Ósvör Maritime
Frakkar á
(Hafnarfjörður) 99 Námafjall 269 Museum 211-12
Íslandsmiðum 306 Pakkhúsið (Ólafsvík) 188 names, Icelandic 379, 399 outdoor activities 38-47,
Gallerí Fold 64 Reykjavík Art National Gallery of
Garður Folk Museum 108 see also individual
Gerðarsafn Art Museum 55 Iceland 64-5 activities
Reykjavík Art Museum – National Museum 65
Museum 98-9 national parks & P
Hafnarfjörður Ásmundarsafn 66
Reykjavík Art Museum – reserves 368 painting 376
Museum 99 Reykjanesfólkvangur Pakkhúsið
Herring Era Museum 233 Kjarvalsstaðir 64
Húsavík Whale Reykjavík Museum of National Park 110-11 (Hafnarfjörður) 99
Snæfellsjökull National Pakkhúsið (Ólafsvík) 188
Museum 270-1 Photography 55 Papey 310
Húsið á Eyrarbakka 124 Saga Centre 186 Park 189-91 Paradíshellir 98
Hveragerði Stone & Saga Museum 59 Vatnajökull National Park parks & gardens
Sagnheimar
Geology Exhibition 121 13, 276-80, 293, 319- Austurvöllur 55
Hverfisgallerí 64 Byggðasafn 164 24, 326, 331, 320, 13 Heiðmörk Nature
i8 64 Selasetur Íslands 224 Þingvellir National Park
Icelandic Emigration Settlement Centre 171-5 111-14, 132 Reserve 66-7
Settlement Natural History Hljómskálagarður
Center 231-2 Museum 212
Icelandic Folk Music Exhibition 54-5 Natural History Museum of Park 57-8
Sigurgeir’s Bird Kópavogur 99 Höfði 266
Centre 233 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Lystigarðurinn 243
Icelandic Folk & Outsider Museum 268 Beach 67 Reykjavík Botanic
Sigurjón Ólafsson Neskaupstaður 304-6
Art Museum 258 newspapers 397 Gardens 66
Icelandic Horse History Museum 66 Nikulásargjá 112 Skrúðgarður 271
Sjómannagarður 189 Njál’s Saga 140 Skrúður 205
Centre 231 Sjöminjasafnið á passports 398-9, 400
Icelandic Museum of Njarðvík 105-8, 106 Patreksfjörður 201-2
Eyrarbakka 124 Nonnahús 243 Peningagjá 112
Rock ‘n’ Roll 105 Skógar Folk Museum 143 Norðfjörður 304-6 Perlan 65-6
Icelandic Phallological Skriðuklaustur 293 Nordic House 65 petrol stations 404, 407
Skrímslasetur Icelandic Norðurfjörður 220 phonecards 397
Museum 64 Norðurnámur 146 planning, see also 
Íslenska Sea Monster Museum Norska Húsið 181 individual regions
203 north Iceland 49, 221-84, budgeting 19, 385
Stríðsárasafnið 302 Snorrastofa 178
Jón Sigurðsson Memorial Sorcerer’s Cottage 219 222-3
Steinasafn Petru 306-7 accommodation 221
Museum 204 Steinshús 214
Kling & Bang 64 Steypa 188
Kvíkan 109 Sudurnes Science &
Landlyst 164 Learning Center 108
Leifsbúð 194 Sögusetrið 138
Library of Water 181-3 Veiðisafnið 124
Listasafn Árnesinga 121 Víkin Maritime
Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar Museum 59

Museum 200

418

I N D E X P - S planning continued Reykjarfjörður 213, 219-20 hypothermia 393 Skarðsvík 194
calendar of events 24-7 trekking 404 skating 67-8
Iceland basics 18-19 Reykjavík 48, 52-99, 53, Saga Centre 186 Skeiðarársandur 319
Iceland’s regions 48-50 56-7, 60-1, 8 Saga Geopark 171 skiing 235
internet resources 19 accommodation 52, 74-9 Saga Museum 59
itineraries 28-35, 237, activities 67 sagas 371, 372 Akureyri 243-5
28, 30, 33, 34 courses 68 Egil’s Saga 176 Eskifjörður 304
outdoor activities 38-47 day trips 69 Njál’s Saga 140 Ólafsfjörður 239
repeat visitors 20 discount cards 65 Sagnheimar Seyðisfjörður 299
Ring Road travel 36 drinking 13, 86-9 Byggðasafn 164 Skarðsdalur 233
tours 44-7 entertainment 89-90 Salurinn 99
travel seasons 18, 24-7 food 13, 52, 79-86 sandar, the 318-19 Skógafoss 143, 234
highlights 53 Sandfellsheiði 325 Skógar 143-6
poetry 371-2 history 54 Sandgerði 108-9 Skógar Folk Museum 143
politics 353 information 94-5 Sauðárkrókur 228-30 Skriðuklaustur 293-4
pop music 373-4 internet resources 59 Saurbæjarkirkja 171 Skrímslasetur Icelandic
population 353 itineraries 54 Saxhöll Crater 190
postal services 395 nightlife 13, 86-9 scenic flights see flight Sea Monster
Power Plant Earth 109 orientation 94 tours Museum 203
pseudocraters 267 shopping 90-4 school holidays 396 skuas, great 319
public holidays 395-6 sights 54-67 scuba diving, see diving &
tours 68-74 snorkelling skyr 383, 255
puffins 16, 40, 295, 367, 17, transport 52 sculpture 376 Skötufjörður 212
35, 131 travel to/from 95-6 sleeping-bag
travel within 96-7 seals 41-5, 224, 41, 131
Q weather 392 Selasetur Íslands 224 accommodation 390
Slyppugil Valley 152
quad biking 72-3, 109, 141 Reykjavík Art Museum 55 Selfoss 126-8, 127 smoking 397
Reykjavík Art Museum – Seljalandsfoss 141, 159 Snæfell 294-5
R Seljavallalaug 142 Snæfellsjökull 190, 253
Ásmundarsafn 66 Seltjarnarnes 66 Snæfellsjökull National
Ráðhús 55 Reykjavík Art Museum – Seltún 110
radio 397 Settlement Centre 171-5 Park 189-91
rafting, see white-water Kjarvalsstaðir 64 Settlement Exhibition 54-5 Snæfellsnes Peninsula 12,
Reykjavík Arts Festival 374
rafting Reykjavík Culture Night 26 Seyðisfjörður 14, 297-301, 181-93, 182, 12, 35, 43
Rauðanes 282 Reykjavík Museum of 298, 14 Snæfjallaströnd 213-14
Rauðasandur 200 snorkelling, see diving &
Rauðfeldsgjá 192 Photography 55 shopping 409
Raufarhöfn 281-2 Reykjavík Zoo & Family Siglufjörður 233-9 snorkelling
Raufarhólshellir 121 Sigurgeir’s Bird Snorralaug 178
religion 353, 379-80 Park 66 Snorrastofa 178
reserves, see national Reynisdrangur 161 Museum 268 snowmobiling 42, 73, 190
Reynisfjara 155 Sigurjón Ólafsson snowshoeing 235
parks & reserves ride-sharing 407 Sólheimajökull 154
restaurants 385-6 Rif 188-9 Museum 66 Sólheimasandur 154
Réttin 98 Ring Road 11, 36-7, 307- Sorcerer’s Cottage 219
Reyðarfjörður 302-3 Silfra 113, 45 South Iceland visitor
Reykhólar 197 10, 11 Sjómannagarður 189
Reykholt (Golden road conditions 406 Sjöminjasafnið á centre 123
road trips 289 southeast Iceland 50, 311-
Circle) 117-18 Eyrarbakka 124
Reykholt (Upper Golden Circle 112 37, 312-13
Ring Road 11, 36-7, Skaftafell 319-24, 320 accommodation 311, 315
Borgarfjörður) 178-9 accommodation 323 food 311
Reykjadalur 121 307-10, 11 activities 320-1 highlights 312-13
Reykjahlíð 263-5 Öndverðarnes 194 food 323-4 road distances 311
Reykjanes Peninsula 101-11 rock music 373-4 tourist information 324 southern Mývatn 266-7
Reykjanesbær 105-8 Route 917 284 tours 321-3 southwest Iceland 48, 100-
Reykjanesfólkvangur travel to/from 324 69, 101, 102-3
S weather 323 accommodation 100
National Park 110-11 food 100
Reykjanesviti lighthouse 109 Sæheimar 164 Skaftafellsheiði 321-4 highlights 102-3
safety 162, 396-7 Skaftafellsjökull 321 road distances 100
Map Pages 000 Skagafjörður 226-31 spas, see geothermal pools
Photo Pages 000 car travel 396, 401, Skálanes 301-2 Sprengisandur route 344-6
404, 406 Skálholt 118-19 Stafafell 337
Skallagrímsgarður 175 Stafkirkjan 164
frostbite 393 Skansinn 164 Stafnsnes 166
geological risks 396-7
hiking 396-7

419

Stakkabót 166 Tindfjöll 141 Vesturbæjarlaug 67 weather 18, 24-7, 392 I N D E X S - Þ
Stakkholtsgjá Canyon 152 Tindfjöll Circle 152 Vesturdalur 279-80 safety 393, 396
Stapafell 193 tipping 395 Viðey 98
Steinarr, Steinn 214 Tjörnes Peninsula 276 Viðeyarstofa 98 weights 397
Steinshús 214 Tjörnin 55 Viðgelmir – the Cave 180
Stekkjarkot 105 toilets 398 Vigur 211 west Iceland 49, 170-95,
Steypa 188 tourism, effects of 352-3, Vík 160-3, 392
Stokkseyri 124-5 Víkin Maritime Museum 59 172-3
Stokksnes 337 370 Víkingaheimar 105 accommodation 170
Stóraklif 164 tourist information 398 Vikings 353, 356 food 170
Stórihver 146 tours 44-7, see also boat Víkurkirkja 161 highlights 172-3
Strandir 217-20 visas 398-9 road distances 170
Strokkur 116 tours, flight tours, Jeep western Mývatn 267-8
Stykkishólmskirkja 183 tours, walking tours Víti (Askja) 348, 349, 16 Westfjords 11, 49, 196-220,
accessible tours 398 Víti (Katla) 269
Stykkishólmur 181-5, caving 72 Volcano House 55 198-9
184, 32 children’s fares 392 Volcano Museum 181 accommodation 196
food tours 383 volcanoes 364-5 food 196
Stöng 134 glacier walks 42, 72 highlights 198-9
Stöðvarfjörður 306-7 highlands, the 339, Askja 16, 348, 349, 16 road distances 196
Súðavík 212 346-7, 350 Bárðarbunga 350 Westfjords Heritage
Suðureyri 206-7 Hvannadalshnúkur 325-7 Eldfell 166, 167 Museum 207
Sudurnes Science & Lakagígar 318 Grímsvötn 322 whale watching 131,
Reykjavík 68-74 194, 133
Learning Center 108 Skaftafell 321-3 Hekla 135, 253, 252 Akureyri 247
Súgandisey 181 southeast Iceland 330 Helgafell 166 Dalvík 240
Sun Voyager 65 Vatnajökull 328, 329 Katla 160 Hauganes 241
Sundhöllin 67 traditional music 233, 374 Kerið 119 Húsavík 271-3
super-Jeep tours, see Jeep Traustholtshólmi Private Laki 317-18 Reykjavík 68
Island 129 Saxhöll Crater 190 Öndverðarnes 194
tours travel seasons 396 Vatnsborg 194 whales 16, 41-2, 59, 275,
Surtsey 168 travel to/from Iceland volunteering 213, 399 130, see also whale
Surtshellir 180 400-1, 409-10 Vopnafjörður 283-4 watching
sustainable travel 80 travel within Iceland 401-7, Whales of Iceland 59
Svartifoss 320-1 409-10 W whaling 369
Sveinsson, Ásmundur 55, travellers cheques 395 white-tailed eagles 197
trekking, see hiking walking, see hiking white-water rafting 42, 44
66, 105 Tröllakirkja 152 walking tours Hvítárvatn 342
Svínafell 324-5 Tröllaskagi 12, 231-42 Reykholt 117-18
Svínafellsjökull 324 Tungustapi 195 East Iceland 289, 291 Varmahlíð 227
Svörtuloft bird cliffs 194 TV 375-6, 379 Reykjavík 68 wi-fi 394
swimming 42 TV locations 375 water 393 Wilderness Center 293
swimming pools 21-2, see waterfalls 23 wildlife 21, 131, 366-8, see
V Aldeyarfoss 259 also individual animals
also geothermal pools Aldeyjarfoss 344 & birds
Akureyri 243 vacations 395-6 wildlife watching 39-42, 131
Hofsós 232 Valahnúkur 109 Dettifoss 280, 32 Dyrhólaey 154-5
Systrafoss & Systravatn Valahnúkur Circle 152 Dynjandi 204, 22 Grundarfjörður 187
314 Varmahlíð 226-8 Fagrifoss 318 Hvammstangi 224
Sögusetrið 138 Flögufoss 307 Ytri-Tunga 193
Sönghellir 193 Vatnajökull 253, 252 Gljúfurárbui 141 winter travel 240, 235
Vatnajökull beer 332 Glymur 171 women in Iceland 378
T Vatnajökull National Park Goðafoss 258-9 work 399
Gullfoss 117
Tálknafjörður 203 13, 276-80, 293, 319-24, Háifoss 134 Y
taxes 395 326, 331, 320, 13 Hengifoss 293
taxis 407 Vatnsborg 194 Hjálparfoss 129 Ytri-Tunga 193
Tectonic Plates 112 Vatnshellir 190 Hraunfossar 179
Teigarhorn 308 Vatnsnes Peninsula 225 Þ
telephone services 397, vegan travellers 386 Seljalandsfoss 141, 159
vegetarian travellers 386 Skógafoss 143, 234 Þingeyrar 226
399 Veiðisafnið 124 Svartifoss 320-1 Þingeyri 204-5
television 375-6, 379 Veiðivötn 345-6 Systrafoss & Systravatn Þingvallabær 113
thermal pools, see  Þingvallakirkja 113
Vestmannaeyjar 16, 163-9, 17 314
geothermal pools Öxarárfoss 112
time 397-8
Tindastóll 230

420 eastern 134-6 Ö Öskjuvatn 348, 349
western 128-34 Öxará 112
Þingvallavatn 113 Þorlákshöfn 123 Ögur 213 Öxarárfoss 112
Þingvellir National Park Þórshöfn 282 Öndverðarnes 194 Öxnadalur 228
Önundarfjörður 205-6
111-14, 132 Þórsmörk 152-4, 43, 159 Öskjuleið (Askja
Þjóðhátíð 26, 167 Þúfubjarg 190
Þjóðveldisbærinn 134 Route) 346-9
Þjórsárdalur

I N D E X  Þ- Ö

Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000

421 NOTES

CLAARTJE SCHOUTEN422

I N D E X -LONELY PLA NET IN THE WILD

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes

Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Walking Tour
Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano
Other Sight Oasis International
Park State/Province
Activities, Pass Disputed
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Regional/Suburb
Waterfall Marine Park
Bodysurfing Cliff
Diving Population Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province)
Skiing City/Large Town River, Creek
Snorkelling Town/Village Intermittent River
Surfing Canal
Swimming/Pool Transport
Walking Water
Windsurfing Airport
Other Activity Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Bus
Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Reef
Cycling
Sleeping Ferry Areas
Camping Metro station
Monorail Airport/Runway
Eating Parking
Petrol station Beach/Desert
Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station
Taxi Cemetery (Christian)
Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other)
Drinking & Nightlife Tram
Cafe Tube station Glacier
U-Bahn/Underground station
Entertainment Other Transport Mudflat

Entertainment Note: Not all symbols displayed above Park/Forest
appear on the maps in this book
Shopping Sight (Building)

Shopping Sportsground

Swamp/Mangrove

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Carolyn Bain
A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in
various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and
Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia,
to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia
to the luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s
alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated
visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a
range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

Alexis Averbuck
Alexis Averbuck was born in Oakland, CA, and earned a degree at Harvard Uni-
versity. She has travelled and lived all over the world, from Sri Lanka and India to
Mexico, Europe and Antarctica. In more recent years she’s been living in Hydra,
Greece, and exploring her adopted homeland; travelling to France to sample
oysters in Brittany and careen through hill-top villages in Provence; and adven-
turing along Iceland’s surreal lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier tongues.
A travel writer for over two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific
by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia, Europe and the Americas. She also
appears in videos and on television promoting travel and adventure, and is a painter – visit www.
alexisaverbuck.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited
CRN 554153
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-
10th edition – May 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum
ISBN 978 1 78657 471 8 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017

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retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
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our content.’