Patternmaking for menswear ( PDFDrive )

step 32 step 33
Developing the right back lining Back lining patterns

• Trace off the right back panel pattern from the left back • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back
panel pattern you have just developed and reverse. panel lining patterns.

• Add the negative vent shape back into the pattern to create CENTER
a straight center back line. NBAOBCNCTAOECKNCTKTCHRHE

• As you are still working on a left back panel shape, you need
to turn it over before adding the annotations for the right
back lining.

GGRRAIAIN LNILNIENERRIIGGHHT TBABCAKCLKINING GGRRAIAIN LNILNIENE
CECNETNTERRE BBAACCKKMLIANSITNEGR PLAN GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE
NEW CNEENWTCEENRTBREA BCAKCKMASTER
PLAN
CCHHEESSTT LLINEEVEL

WWAAIISSTTLLIINNEE

BBAACCKKLILNIINNIGNRIGGHRITGHT
CCUUTT 11LILININNIGNG
BBAACCKKLILNIINNIGNLEGFTLEFT
CCUUTT 11LILININNIGNG

HHEEMMLILNIENE HHEEMMLLINIENE

HEMLINHEEMLINE

250 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

Trench Coat 251

pattern
Single-breasted Jacket

This pattern includes development BACK
of the following features: PBIATCCHK
Shaping the body panels and creating a side panel PNOOINTCTH
Extending the front and shaping the breast with added volume
Extending the hemline FRONT
Creating a center back vent NOTCH
Moving the shoulder slope toward the back
Creating a welted breast pocket CHEST LEINVEEL
Developing a patch pocket with flap
Developing a roll collar with lapel CENTERRE BAACCKK
Developing a tailored two-piece sleeve with cuff vent SIDE SEAM
Developing taped internal seams with no lining
GRAINLILINNEE
step 1 CENTERRE FRROONNTT
Developing the master plan BACK MASTERR FRONT MASTER
PLAN PPLLAANN
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page WAISTLINE
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the shirt you want to develop and transfer the shape HIP LEINVEEL
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.

252 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

PPBBNIOATAOCICCNTKHKCTH
FRONT
PNIOTTCCHH
POINT

step 2 CHEST LEINVEEL
DevelopING the hemline
CENTERRE BACCKK
• From the hemline square down 31⁄8in at the center front, side SIDE SEAM
seam, and center back lines. GRAINLILINNEE

• Join these three points with a straight horizontal line. CENTERER FRONT
BACK MASTERR FRONT MASTER
PLAN PPLLAANN

WAISTLINE

8 3C1M⁄8" HEMLINEE 381⁄C8"M 381C⁄8"M
NEW HEMLINNEE

step 3
Developing the internal shaping

When determining suit panel sizes it is CENTERRE BACK FRONT MASTERR
important to do some market research, BACK PBIATCKH PPLLAANN
investigating similar garments and NECK PNOOITNCTH 12.58"CM
comparing measurements with the style you POINT 03⁄.156"CM
may be developing. Use your fit model FRONT 11⁄2."4 CM
or form to gain the correct proportions BACK MASTER FPRIOTCNTH
for the paneling as this will ultimately PLAN NPOOTICNHT 125.8" CM
affect the balance of the jacket. UNDERARM
CHEST LEINVEEL /USNIDERSAERAM
• To create the front internal dart, at the center front chest, COPORNINETR
waist, and original hemlines square in 5in and mark.
CENTERRE BACK SIDE SEAM CENTERER FRONT
• From the chest level mark square down 41⁄8in, and from the GRAINLILINNEE
hemline mark square up 5in; these two points are the ends of 1.7 C5⁄M8" 10.415⁄8"CM
the dart. 15⁄8."7 CM
1.59⁄1C6"M WAISTLINE
• From the waistline mark measure out 1⁄4in to each side,
making the dart width 1⁄2in. 12.58" CM

• Connect all these points with curved lines. HEMLINE
• For the center back shaping: from the center back, measure
NEW HEMLINE
in 1⁄4in at the new hemline and the original hemline; at the 01⁄4."7 CM
waistline measure in 9⁄16in, and at the center back neck point
measure in 3⁄16in.
• From the chest level draw a curved line up to meet the new
center back neck point and then down to join the new point
on the waistline, then down farther to connect the points
on the hemlines.
• Taking volume from the side seam gives a fitted silhouette
and will also help you to develop the side panel. From the
side seam at the waistline measure out 5⁄8in in each direction
and mark. Connect these two points with a curved line up to
the underarm and down to the original hemline.

Single-breasted Jacket 253

step 4 • Start with the front style line: from the center back measure
Developing the side panel 63⁄4in along the new hemline toward the center front and
mark; continue measuring 3⁄4in and mark, and a further
Side panels 47⁄8in and mark. These points are the ends of the three new
On the front and back slopers you are shaping lines.
going to create style lines that will
separate the panel into front, side, • From the new side seam measure 15⁄16in toward the front
and back, as in the classic three-piece along the waistline and mark; from the underarm / side seam
suit. In the previous step you took away corner measure 3⁄8in along the armhole toward the front and
volume from the side seam back and front. mark; from the side seam measure 2in along the old hemline
To create the side panel you need to toward the front and mark.
combine these to gather and redraw them
as a single shape. Having removed volume • Join the marks at the new and the old hemlines to the
at the side seam, you then need to remove waistline mark with a straight line and continue up to the
additional volume from the back panel, chest and front armhole with a graduated curve; this is the
to finish the fitted shape of the side front style line, which separates the new side panel from
jacket. You do this between the new the front panel.
back and side panel.
• To create the back style lines, from the center back measure
BACK MASTER NBBPPAIOAOTCCTICNKCKHTH FRONT MASTER 61⁄4in along the waistline and mark, and then a further 13⁄16in
PLAN FNFPPRORIOOTTOINCCNNHTHTT PPLLAANN and mark.

6.231C⁄2"M • From the underarm / side seam corner measure 21⁄2in toward
the center back and mark, and a further 3⁄4in and mark.

• The back style lines start from a point on the back armhole
below the notch; to find this measure 2in from the chest
level up the center back and then square across to the back
armhole and mark.

• From this point draw the back style lines, intersecting the
chest and waist at the marks you made earlier, crossing over
each other 31⁄2in above the original hemline and continuing
down to the new hem in a straight line.

5 CM2" 32⁄4"CM 3⁄18"CM

CHEST LEINVEEL LINE

CENTERRE BACK BACK SEPARATION LINE SEPARATION GRAINLILINNEE CENTERRE FRONT
133⁄16C"M
WAISTLINE SIDE BACK SEPARATION LINE SIDE SEAM 31.5⁄136"CM
1661C⁄4"M SIDE FRONT

931⁄C2"M

HEMLINE 273C⁄4"M 52C" M
2 3C⁄4M" 1427.⁄58" CM
NEW HEMLINE
1673⁄4"CM

254 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 5
Developing the new shoulder slope and front hem styling

Shoulder slope • From the back shoulder tip measure 3⁄8in down the armhole
and mark; from the front shoulder tip extend the armhole up
Move the angle of the shoulder seam 3⁄8in and mark. From these two new points draw in the new
before you open up the front: This shoulder seams back up to the high point shoulders.
will prevent the shoulder seam from
being seen from the front, giving • To add style shaping to the center front hem, measure 3⁄4in
a seamless silhouette. down from the hemline at the center front and connect back
to the side seam with a smooth curve.

BACK BACK FRONT FRONT
SBHACOKULDER SHOULDER SHOULDER SHFOROUNLDTER
NHEIGCHKPOINT PTOIPINT PTIOPINT NEHCIGKH POINT
PSOHOINUTLDER POSIHNOTULDER

1 C3⁄8"M
1 3⁄C8"M

BACK MASSTTEERR PBPBNIOAATOCICCTNKKHCTH FRONT MASTER
PLAN NFRPPFOROIOTTONCICNNHTHTT PPLLAANN

CHEST LEINVEEL BACK SEPARATION LINE
SIDE BACK SEPARATION LINE
CENTERRE BACCKK CENTERRE FRONT
SIDE SEAM
WAISTLINE SSIDE FRONT SEPARATION LINE

OLD HEMLINNEE GRAINLILINNEE
NEW HEMLINNEE

23⁄4C" M

Single-breasted Jacket 255

step 6 step 7
Developing the front extension Developing the front breast shaping

• Trace off the front panel onto a separate piece of paper and, Lapel shape
following the instructions on page 50, reverse the shape to Pitching back and opening the front
create the left-hand side panel, which will eventually also breast shape will enable the straight
contain the breast pocket shape. sloper front to follow the contours of
a male chest.
• Extend out 1in horizontally from the center front neck point
and at the hem; connect these points with a straight line to
create the front extension.

CENTERRE • From the chest level measure up 15⁄8in and square a line
FRONT across; repeat four times.
NECK
POINT

12."5 CM

CENTERRE FRROONNTT CHEST LEINVEEL 415C⁄8"M
WAISTLINEE 415C⁄8"M
NEW HEMMLLIINNEE CENTERRE FFRROONNTT 415C⁄8"M
415C⁄8"M
2.5 C1"M CHEST LEINVEEL

WAISTLLIINNEE

NEW HEEMMLLIINNEE

256 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 8 step 9

Developing the welted breast and patch pockets Adding in the volume on the front breast panel

• For the breast pocket placement, from the top of the waist • Cut along the horizontal lines you drew across the chest
dart measure 2in along the chest level toward the center and neck from the center front and neck into the shoulder;
front; this will be the bottom corner of the rectangular open each 3⁄16in upward at the front, creating a wedge shape,
welt opening. adding in a total of 15⁄16in.

• Measure 23⁄8in in the opposite direction and mark; from • Tape against another piece paper and redraw the front panel,
this point square up 11⁄16in; this is the opposite corner of blending through the open steps.
the rectangle.
0.4 C3⁄1M6"
• Join these points with an 43⁄8in straight line, square up 9⁄16in 0.4 C3⁄1M6"
at each end, and draw a rectangular box. 0.4 C3⁄1M6"
0.4 C3⁄1M6"
• The patch pocket runs off the front panel into the side 0.4 C3⁄1M6"
panel and covers the waist dart; when plotting the pocket
measurement do not include the dart width. CHEST LEINVEEL

• From the waist dart measure 3⁄4in along the waistline toward
the center front, and from this point square down 9⁄16in and
mark; this is the starting point for the pocket depth.

• Measure down another 9⁄16in for the welt opening, then
measure down a further 61⁄2in (the pocket depth).

• The pocket width is 57⁄8in, which will run over onto the
side panel.

• Round off the bottom corners of the pocket.

CENTERRE FFRROONNTT WAISTLLIINNEE
NEW HEMLIINNEE
1143C⁄8M"9⁄11.6"5 CM
Single-breasted Jacket 257
111.⁄186"CM
CHEST LEINVEEL 52C" M 62C3⁄8M"

CENTERRE FRROONNTT

WAISTLINE 2 C3⁄4M" 19⁄1.56"CM
1.5 9C⁄1M6"

1557⁄8"CM

16.61⁄52"CM

5175⁄8"CM
NEW HEMLINNEE

step 10 93 1C⁄2"M
Developing the roll collar 14.⁄345" CM

Break point and roll line 12."5 CM
Locate on the pattern where you want your EB PFSNHFSRHOERHIOOCGINOOKNUHTNUTLPTLDODEEIRNRT
collar to break on the new front edge AD
line of the body panel. Consider the 12".5 CM
proportion of your design and silhouette
length. The point at which the front will C 03⁄1.56"CM
turn over to create a lapel is called
the break point (BP) and the line that 415⁄C8"M 31⁄8"CM 2.5 C1"M
it turns on is the roll line. The lower
down the front your BP is, the wider CENTERRE ROLL
an opening you will have around the FRONT LINE
neck silhouette. NECK
POINT
• From the front high point shoulder measure out 1in and
mark point (C). BREAK PPOOIINNTT CHEST LEINVEEL BREAK POINT FACING LINE
WAISTLLININEE 9 CM
• You will run the roll line through point (C); from the 1423⁄4"CM
waistline measure 43⁄4in up the front, mark and name as
the break point. CENTERRE FRROONNTT 10 CM
CENTRE FRONT
• Draw a straight line from here up through (C), continue for
31⁄2in and mark point (A). 9.5 CM

• From (A) square 1in back toward the shoulder and mark
point (B).

• Draw a line from (B) to (C); square out 1in from the top of this
line and mark point (D).

• From (B) extend the line out 13⁄4in and mark point (E). This is
the width of the collar (23⁄4in) at the center back neck curve.

• From (E), starting at a right angle, draw out the collar shape
that you require, finishing the collar notch 15⁄8in in from the
extended front.

• To shape the front of the jacket lapel, measure in 3⁄8in from
the center front neck point. From this point draw a graduated
line back down the center front to give shape.

• From (D) draw a line back toward the shoulder line, crossing
it 3⁄16in back from the front high point shoulder, and blend in
to the curved neck shape.

Checking the shape
It is always important to check the
shape you have created by folding back
the paper on the roll line to assess
it; redraw and develop until you are
satisfied. The sequence above is a method
widely used to draft a basic tailored
collar. Variations can be found in many
patternmaking books available, old and
new; choose the one that you prefer.

258 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

9 CM
4.5 CM

2.5 CM
EB FRONT
AD SHOULDER 41 5⁄8C"M
2.5 CM NECK
POINT
C 0.5 CM

1 CM 2.5 CM
4 CM
step 11 CENTRE ROLL
Developing the facing FRONT LINE
NECK
POINT

• From the collar measure back 15⁄8in along the shoulder seam;

this is the width of the facing. CHEST LINE CHEST LEINVEEL
• From the jacket front measure in 31⁄2in along the WAISTLLININEE

waistline and mark, and measure in 33⁄4in along the hemline FACING LINE

and mark. BREAK POINT BREAK POINNTT
9 3C1⁄M2"
• From the waistline measure 4in down the front edge of
12 CM
the jacket and continue down to the point you marked

on the hemline with a deep curve; this is the lower front WAIST LINE

jacket shaping. 104"CM
CENTTERRE FFRROONNTT
• From the hemline measure 15⁄8in up the side seam and from
CENTRE FRONT
here square in 4in; from this point draw a graduated curve

up to meet the point you marked on the waistline, continue

up in a straight line to the chest level, and blend back to the

shoulder with another curved line.

140" CM 415C⁄8"M

393.5⁄4"CM

step 12 RIGHT RIGHT LEFT LEF
Final front pattern CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SSEELLFF CUT 1 SELF CUT

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the left and GRAIN LINE
right front panels. GRAINLLIINNEE

• Mark the breast pocket on the left side only, and the patch CENTERRE FRROONNTT
pocket position on both sides. GRAINLLIINNEE

CENTRE FRONT
GRAIN LINE

Single-breasted Jacket 259

step 13
Front facing pattern

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
facing pattern.

GRAINLILINNEE

step 14 CENTERRE FRONT
Developing the side panel and hem ALLOWANCE FRONT FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the side
panel onto a separate piece of paper.

• Next you need to remove the internal volume by closing the
dart shapes in the side seam. Cut down both sides of the
side seam to the bottom of the shaping and out along the
waistline, making sure to leave the shapes connected by a
sliver of paper at the edges so that the side lengths do not
change when manipulated.

• Reposition by closing up the shape and tape together.
• Measure 15⁄8in down on both sides at the hemline and square

across to create a rectangular box; this is the hem allowance.

SIDSIEDSEEASMEAM step 15 SISDIEDSEEASMEAM
Combining the side panel
CCLLOOSSEE 19⁄.156"CM
CCLLOOSSEE • Trace off the closed side panel onto 19⁄.156"CM
a separate piece of paper.
145C⁄8"M
• Match up the front panel at the waist
and hemlines to the new side panel at
the side front style line.

• Transcribe across the position for the
remainder of the welted opening for
the patch pocket.

SSIIDDEEFRFORNOTNSETPSAREAPTIAORNALITINEON LINE SSIIDDEEBABCAKCSKEPSAERAPTIAORNALTIINOEN LINE FOOLLDD SSIIDDEEBBACAKCSKESPAERPAATIROANTILIONNE LINE
ALLFOAWCAINNGCE
FFOOLLDD 145⁄8C"M NNEEWWHHEEMMLINLEINE
ALFLAOCWIANNGCE
NEW HEMLINE

260 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 16 step 17
Developing the center back vent back pattern
and back neck facing • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back panel pattern.
panel onto a separate piece of paper.
BACK
• From the hemline at the center back and side seams square CUT 11PPRRSSEELLFF
down 15⁄8in and square across to form a rectangle, extending
it 15⁄8in past the center back; this is the hem allowance. GRAINLILINNEE

• From the bottom of the hem allowance measure up 77⁄8in
and then square back into the center back. From this point
measure up 9⁄16in on the center back and draw an angled
line back to the top corner of the vent shape.

• The center back neck facing is 15⁄8in in width to match the
front; measure 15⁄8in down from the center back neck point
and 15⁄8in down the shoulder from the back high point
shoulder and connect these two points with a curved line.

CENTRERE BACK
BACK BNAECCKK
NECK SHHIGOHUPLDOEINRT
POINT PSOHOINUTLDER
145C⁄8"M
415C⁄8"M

CENTERER BACKBACK MASTER PLAN
SIDE SEAM
CHEST LEINVEEL FOLD

WAISTLINE
91⁄1.56" CM

207C7⁄M8" VENT step 18
Back neck facing pattern
FOLD 415C⁄8"M • Trace off the back neck facing onto a separate piece of paper
ALLFOAWCAINNGCE
415C⁄8"M NEW HEMLINE and, following the instructions on page 50, create the full
pattern shape.
C CEENNTTREERBABCAKCK
GGRRAAIINNLILINENE BACK NECK FACING
CCCBCUUAUUTTCTTK11Y11FSOUESFKSLUEEFELSFE

Single-breasted Jacket 261

5153⁄1.65"CM ⁄1.951C6"M 1 CM
13⁄C8"M
13⁄C8"M TTOOPPSTSITTCIHTLCINHE LINE
⁄1.95 1C6M" CCUUTTLLININE E BOTBTOOPPTOTOMOCCMKSEKSTTTEIOITTTPCCEOHNHPLINILNEGEINNIENG
step 19 1.9516C"M⁄
Developing the welted breast pocket top and GGRRAIANILINNLIENEWELTWEELDTEBDRBEREAASSTT 156.51⁄8C"M
bottom bag POCKPAONECDTKBETOTOTTTPOOPM BAG
13.553C⁄8M" ANDMBAOSTTETROPMLANBAG
• From the front left final pattern in Step 12, trace off the MASTER PLAN
breast pocket opening onto a separate piece of paper so that
you have a rectangle 43⁄8in long by 9⁄16in wide drawn at an
angle to the grainline.

• Extend the top stitch line by 9⁄16in to the right and 3⁄8in to the
left, and extend the bottom stitch line by 9⁄16in to the left and
3⁄8in to the right.

• Connecting these points on the left, draw a 53⁄8in vertical
line down. Connecting the points on the right, draw a 61⁄8in
vertical line down. Square across 53⁄8in at the bottom to
connect these two lines (the width of the pocket bag).

135.53⁄8C"M

step 20
Breast pocket bag patterns

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the pocket
bag shape and add a 3⁄8in seam allowance above the top
stitch line to create the final top pocket bag pattern.

• Trace off the pocket bag shape again as far as the bottom
stitch line, then add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on top of the
stitch line to create the final bottom pocket bag pattern.

13⁄8C"M 1 CM

1 CM 13⁄C8"M

1 3C⁄8M" 1 CM

1 CM 1 3C⁄8M"

TOP BREAST BOTTOM BREAST POCKET BAG
PTOOPCBKREEATSTBPAOGCKET BAG CUT 1 POCKETING
CCUUTT1 1POPCOKECTIKNEGTING
BOTTOM BREAST
TOP BREAST POCKET BAG PBOOTCTOKMEBTREBAASGT POCKET BAG
CUT 1 POCKETING CCUUTT1 P1OCKETING
POCKETING
GRAIN LINE
15.5 CM
GGRRAIANILINNLIENE
GGRRAIANILINNLIENE

GRAIN LINE

262 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 21 • Mirror this parallelogram along the fold line.
Developing the breast pocket welt • Add a 9⁄16in seam allowance to both long sides of the shape

Welts and a 3⁄8in allowance to the shorter sides.
If your welted pocket is angled then the
welt’s shape will need to reflect this. ⁄3C8M"
Welts can be the same size or larger than
pocket openings and are doubled over so 1
they have two layers of fabric, with a
fusing layer in between for rigidity. 43⁄8" 11 CM ⁄ "19.51C6M
2.5 CM BCCRUUEBCCTTRUUAETT11AS11SSSTFFTUEEUPLSPOFLEFSOCFCOFKECOEELLTKNDDCWEETENTLETTRRWE4FFE3OO⁄LL81D"1TLCLDIMNELINE
• From the front left pattern in Step 12, trace one long side of ⁄3C8"M 1"
the breast pocket opening onto a separate piece of paper GGRRAINAILINNELINE
so that you have a line 43⁄8in long at the same angle as the 1 1"
breast pocket itself. This will become the center fold line.
Copy the direction of the grainline across, too. 2.5 CM

• Parallel to the grainline, draw 1in lines up from both ⁄ "19.51C6M
ends of the line and mark. Connect these marks to create
a parallelogram. 2.51C"M FFOOLLDD 12.5" CM

⁄ "19.51C6M
⁄13CM8"

⁄ "19.51C6M

⁄13C8M"

31⁄8C"M 155 7C⁄8M" 31⁄8C"M
FFAACCININGG
FFOOLLDD 13⁄316C"M

step 22 PCCPAUAUTTTCT1CHP1HPROPSPCREKOLESFCTEKLEFT
Developing the final patch pocket
GGRRAIANILINNLIENE
• On a separate piece of paper draw a rectangular box 57⁄8in 61⁄2" 16.5 CM
wide by 75⁄8in tall.

• From the top measure 13⁄16in down each side and square
across with a broken line, naming it fold; this will become the
facing for the pocket bag.

• Round off both bottom corners and add a 3⁄8in seam
allowance to create the final pattern.

step 23 13C8M"⁄ 6 ⁄ "151.58CM 13C8M"⁄
Developing the final patch pocket flap
FOFOLLD D 11.52⁄ "CM
• On a separate piece of paper draw a rectangular box 61⁄8in PATCH POCKET FLAPPATCH POCKET FLAP
wide by 21⁄4in tall. FOFOLLDD
CUT 2 PR SELF
• From the top measure 1⁄2in down each side and square across GRGRAAIINNLINLEINE CM⁄ "
with a broken line, naming it fold; this will be sewn in to the CUCTUT 2 PR1 PR FUSE SELF
welt opening construction. CUT 1 PR FUSE 4
4.531
• Round off both bottom corners and add a 3⁄8in seam
allowance to create the final pattern.

Single-breasted Jacket 263

step 24 • On separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 57⁄8in long
Developing The patch pocket piping by 3⁄4in wide to create a rectangular-shape for the piping.

Piping • Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
The piping is sewn between the pocket center, and label it fold.
flap as decoration to the opening.
In this example it is only 3⁄16in wide. • Add a 3⁄16in seam allowance to both long sides and a 3⁄8in
seam allowance to each end to create the final pattern.

13C⁄8"M 5175⁄8"CM 13⁄C8"M
FOLD
2 C3M⁄4" PATCH PPOOCCKKEETTPPIIPPIINNGG GL 30⁄1.56" CM
CUT 1 PR SSEELLFF 30⁄1.56" CM
30⁄1.56" CM
03⁄.156"CM

step 25
Developing the two-piece tailored sleeve

Measurements required to develop the sleeve • Divide the armhole measurement (21in) by 6 to give 31⁄2in
• Armhole 201⁄4in + 3⁄4in ease = 21in. and add 3⁄8in ease to give 37⁄8in. From (1) square out 37⁄8in to
the left and to the right and label these points (5) and (6).
(Take this measurement from the
basic upper body sloper.) • From (2) measure out 37⁄8in to the left and to the right and
• Sleeve length to wrist = 251⁄4in. label these points (7) and (8).
(Take this from the shoulder tip,
running down the back of the elbow to • Connect all points (5), (6), (7), (8) to form a rectangle.
the wrist; extra length can be added • Divide the sleeve cap length (63⁄4in) by 3 to give 21⁄4in. From
at this point to suit your design.)
• Top of sleeve cap to elbow length = (6) measure down 21⁄4in, make a mark and label it back notch.
133⁄4in. From the back notch square in 1in and mark point (A); this is
• Upper biceps circumference = 16in. the top point of the back seam on the undersleeve.
(This measurement is taken round the • From (3) square out to the left to intersect the line from
upper arm; extra width “ease” can be (5) to (7) and mark point (B), and square out to the right to
added for movement.) intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (C). This is
• Cuff measurement = 113⁄4in. Remove the biceps level.
3⁄4in as 3⁄8in from each side to reduce • From (B) measure out 1in and mark point (D), and measure
the cuff width from the basic tapered in 1in and mark point (E). From (C) measure in 3⁄8in and mark
sloper, which is 125⁄8in. point (F), and measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (G).
• Sleeve cap height = 63⁄4in. • To establish the front notch on the armhole divide the sleeve
cap height (63⁄4in) by 2 to give 33⁄8in, and subtract 7⁄8in to
• Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the give 21⁄2in. This will ensure a rectangular shape to the sleeve
length of your sleeve or the arm length of your fit model. cap instead of the square shape that would occur if the
sleeve cap were just divided in half. From (B) measure up
• Draw a 251⁄4in vertical line down the center and label it 21⁄2in, make a mark and label it front notch.
center line; label the top of this line (1) and the bottom (2). • From (4) square out to the left to intersect the line from
This is the length of the sleeve. (5) to (7) and mark point (H), and square out to the right to
intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (I). This is
• From (1) measure down 63⁄4in (the sleeve cap height, or one- the elbow level.
third of the armhole measurement not including ease) and • From (H) measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (J), and measure
label point (3). in 15⁄8in and mark point (K).

• From (1) measure down 133⁄4in (the elbow length) and label
point (4).

264 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

• From (7) measure up 3⁄4in and from this point measure out • Draw in the top sleeve front seam by drawing a blended line
3⁄4in and mark point (L); this is the top sleeve cuff point. connecting the points from (L) through (J) to (D).
Measure in 3⁄4in and mark point (M); this is the undersleeve
cuff point. • Draw in the undersleeve front seam by drawing a blended
line connecting the points from (M) through (K) to (E).
• The cuff circumference is 113⁄4in. Divide this between the top
and undersleeve so that the top sleeve cuff width is 63⁄4in • Using a French curve, draw in the top sleeve cap starting at
and the undersleeve is 5in. This allows the top sleeve seams (D) with a concave curve through the front notch where you
to fall toward the back of the arm, slightly out of view. reverse the curve to a convex curve up to (1) and back down
to the back notch with a similar convex curve.
• From (L) draw a line 63⁄4in long to intersect the line from (7)
to (8) and mark point (N). From (M) draw a line 5in long to • Measure the length of this line and compare it to the
intersect the line from (7) to (8), also at point (N). These are measurement of the armhole on the front and back patterns.
the cuff hemlines. Adjust the curves until the line is the same length as
the armhole.
5 9.387⁄C8"M 1 9.387⁄C8"M 6
• Using a French curve, draw in the top of the undersleeve
FNPRPFOROIOTTOINCCNNHTHTT 251.6⁄4"CM starting with a convex curve starting at (E) up to (A).
62.15⁄2"CM A
• Again, measure this line and adjust it until it is the same
D BE BACK measurement as the armhole on the front and back patterns.
PNIOTTCCHH
POINT • Draw in the back seam of the top sleeve with a blended line
from the back notch through points (G) to (I) and continue
down to (N).

• Draw in the back seam of the undersleeve with a blended line
from (A) through (F) to (I) and also continue with this seam
on the same line as the top sleeve down to (N).

163⁄74"CM 2.5 C1"M

31533⁄4C"M F
BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE
C G
3
2.5 C1"M SSEEAAMM 1 C3⁄8M"
2.5 C1"M 1 C3⁄8M" SEAM

SLEEVE BBAACCKK BACK
MASTER
PATTERN FURNODENTRSSLLEEEEVVEE SLEEVE

251⁄4" TOP

H K EELLBBOOWWLLEIVNEEL
J 4
TOP SLEEVE FROORENTARSMEASMEAM I
1 C3⁄8M"
CENTERER LINE
UNDER SLEEVE FROORENTARSMEASMEAM 41C5⁄8M"

BOTTOM
M PCSCUOLUUNEIFNFDEFTFVEERPSOLINETEVE
TOP SLEEVE 51"3 CM
CUFF POINT

3⁄24"CM
3⁄24"CM
TOP SLEEVE L
CUFF POINT
32⁄4C" M N
8
7 CUFF61H73⁄4E"CMMLINES 2

Single-breasted Jacket 265

step 26 step 27
Developing the final top sleeve pattern with Developing the final undersleeve pattern with
cuff vent cuff vent

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top • Trace off the undersleeve onto a separate piece of paper and,
sleeve onto a separate piece of paper. following the instructions on page 50, reverse it over.

• From the bottom of the sleeve measure down 13⁄16in and draw • From the bottom of the sleeve measure down 13⁄16in and
a rectangular box to create the facing strip. draw a rectangular box to create the facing strip. Extend the
length of the cuff facing by 13⁄16in at the inner sleeve seam.
• Extend the length of the cuff facing by 13⁄16in at the inner
sleeve seam and square up 4in to create a rectangular box • On top of this extension square up 4in from the facing and
13⁄16in in width. This is the cuff extension. create a rectangular box 13⁄16in in width.

• Measure a further 9⁄16in up the back seam and join this point • Measure a further 9⁄16in up the back seam and join this point
to the outer corner of the box, creating an angle and shape to the outer corner of your rectangular box, creating
similar to the center back vent. an angle and shape similar to the center back vent.

• The corner is then folded to create a mitered corner • The corner is then folded to create a mitered corner
during construction. during construction.

GRAIN LINE
GRRAIAINNLILNIENE

GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE
GRAIN LINE

TOP SLEEVE 41"0 CM
CTUOOTPP1SSLPLEREEVESEVELEF 10 CM
FOOLLDD
CUUTT11PPRRSESLEFLF FOLD
UUNNDDEERRSLSELEEVEEVE
1.5 C1.M5 C9⁄M16" CUUUTNT1D1PEPRRSSESLLEEFLEFVE91⁄1.65" C1.M5 CM
CUT 1 PR SELF
3 CM3 C13M⁄16" CUFCFFUUOFFFLAFFFDCOFOFAILNLACDDGCINIGNG FOLD
FOOLLDD

10 CM
41"0 CM

3 CM313⁄C16"M 3 1C3⁄1M63" CM CUUFFFOFCOFLUFLFDAFDFACOFCILNFIDGNAGCING 313⁄C16"M3 CM

3 CM 313⁄C16"M
313⁄C16"M 3 CM

266 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

Single-breasted Jacket 267

pattern
Double-breasted Jacket

This pattern includes development of the following features:
Shaping the body panels and creating a side panel
Creating a double-breasted extension and shaping the breast

with added volume
Extending the hemline
Creating side vents
Moving the shoulder slope toward the back
Lowering the armhole
Developing a welted breast pocket
Developing jetted side pockets
Developing a coin pocket
Developing a shaped convertible collar with hidden stand

and lapel
Developing a tailored two-piece sleeve with cuff vent
Developing a full body lining

268 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 1 BACK
Developing the master plan PBIATCCKH
PNOOITNCTH
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page PFRNFITROOCOTNHCNTTH
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the POINT
length of the jacket you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following CCHHEESST TLELVIENLE
the directions on page 48.
CCEENNTETRRBEACBKACK
Creating the jacket sloper SSIIDDEESESAEMAM
To create a suit jacket sloper from the GGRRAIAINLINNLEINE
basic sloper, you need to make some shape
adaptations to the front, side, back, CCEENNTETRRFERFONRTONT
and shoulder areas of the pattern, BACKBMACAKSMTAESRTER FROFRNOTNTMMAASSTTEERR
building on the techniques learned PLANPLAN PLPLAANN
in the single-breasted jacket
development (pages 252–67). WWAAISISTLTINLEINE

HHIIPPLELVINELE

BACK MASTER BACK FRONT MASTER
PLAN PBITACCHK PPLLAANN
CHEST LIENVEEL PNOOINTTCH
step 2
Developing the hemline FRONT
FRPOITNCTH
• From the hemline square down 2in at the center front, side NOPOTCINHT
seam, and center back lines.
CENTERER BACK
• Join these three points to form the new hemline. SIDE SSEEAAMM
GRAINLLIINNEE

CENTERER FRONT

WAISTLINE

5 CM2" HEMLINE 5 C2M" 5 C2M"
NEW HEMLINE

Double-breasted Jacket 269

SBPAHOCTBSOINIHAKUPTCOLKDUELDRER FRONT FRONT HIGH CENTRE 0.5 CM
SHOULDER POINT SHOULDER BACK
TPIOPINT NECK
CENTRERE POINT
FRONT
1 3C⁄8"M 13C⁄8M" NECK
POINT
BACK MASTER BACK FRONT MASTER BACK MASTER PBPBNIOATAOCICCNTKHKCT H FRONT MASTER BACK
PLAN PITCH PLAN PLAN NFROFPPOROITTONCICNHTNHTT PPLLAANN 91⁄.156"CM P
POINT
52C"M
FRONT
step 3 PITCH
POINT

Developing the new shoulder slope and front

doubClHEeST-bLINrE easted extension CHEST LIENVEEL

C

• From the back shoulder tip measure 3⁄8in down the armhole
and mark; from the front shoulder tip extend the armhole up
3⁄8in and mark. From these two new points draw in the new
shoulder lines back up to the high point shoulders.

• From the center front neck point measure down 9⁄16in and
draw in the new neckline up to the front high point shoulder.

• FromWAtIShTeLINnEew center front neck point square out 2in; repeat
this at the new hemline. Connect these two points to create
the double-breasted extension.
CENTRE BACK SIDE SEAM SIDE SSEEAAMM GRAINLLIINNEE CENTRE BACK
GRAIN LINE CENTERER FRONT

CENTRE FRONT
CENTERER BACK

WAISTLINE

1.5 CM

5 CM HEMLINE 5 CM 5 CM OLDHHEEMMLILNINEE
NEW HEMLINE NEWNEHWEMHLEINMELINE

0.5 CM

BACK FRONT CENTRE CENTRERE 30⁄.165"CM
SHOULDER SHOULDER FRONT BACK
POINT POINT NECK NECK
1 CM POINT POINT
1 CM

BACK MASTER BACK FRONT MASTER 1.5 CM BACK MASTER NNBNBPPAEOOAIETCWTCWICNKCKHTH FPNPNNFRIOETREOOWICNOWTNHTNCTHT FRONT MASTER BACK
PLAN PITCH PLAN PLAN UNDERARM PPLLAANN
CHEST LIENVEEL / USCNIPDODOEREINSNREETARARMM
step 4 POINT 5 CM
WAISTLINE 23⁄4C" M
FRONT
Lowering the armhoPlITCeH and developing the
POINT
internal shaping

• FrCoHmESTtLhINeE underarm / side seam corner measure 3⁄4in down 4.5 CM C
the side seam and using the front and back upper body
CENTRE BACK slopers as a template redraw the armhole from this point,SIDE SEAMGRAIN LINE CENTERER BACK SIDE SSEEAAMM
connecting it back up to the shoulder on either side. CENTRE FRONT GRAINLLIINNEE
Draw in the new notches on the lowered armhole.
CENTERER FRONT
• To shape the center back, measure in 3⁄16in at the new CENTRE BACK
hemline, measure in 9⁄16in at the waistline, and measure in
3⁄16WinAISaTLtINtEhe center back neck point. 1.59⁄C16"M

• Connect these points with straight lines to create the new
center back line.

HEMLINE OHELDMLHINEME LINE
NEW HEMLINE NEW HEMLINE

270 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear 0.53⁄1C6"M

CENTRE 0.5 CM
BACK
NECK
E POINT

step 5

Developing the side panel PNBPNBNIOAETAEOCWICCNWTKHKTCH
NNEEWW
.5 CM BACK MASTER NEW FRONT MASTER BACK MASTER FFRROONNTT FRONT MASTER
5 CM BACK PLAN NPOITTCCHH PPLLAN
• aTanPkLdAinNwgillvoallsuomheeflrpoymPPoOITuItCNhHTteoNFREsdOWiedNTveesloeapmthgePiLvsAeiNdseapfaitnteeld. silhouette POINT
From the CHEST LIENVEEL
PITCH 7119⁄2"CM
original side seam at measure out 3⁄8in into the
thPeOIwNTaistline

front and back bodyUNpDaEnRAeRlMs. 4.51C3⁄4M" 4.153⁄C4"M
• CCoHnESnTeLcINtE these two poPiOnINtTs with straight lines up to the new
13⁄C8"M NENWEW
underarm / side seam co2rCnMer and down to the point where UNUDNEDREARRAMRM
PO/ ISNIDTE SEAM
the original side seam line intersects the old hemline. 1.59⁄1C6"M
CORNER
• For the front style line, from the original side seam measure BACK SIDE SEAM
GRAIN LINE BACK SIDE SEAM FRONT SIDE SEAM GRAINLLIINNEE
CENTRE FRONT CENTERER FRONT
CENTERER BACK
CENTRE BACK 2in along the new hemline toward the front and mark, andSIDE SEAM SIDE SSEEAAMM

measure 15⁄8in along the waistline toward the front and mark.
At the new underarm / side seam corner square in 9⁄16in

toward the front and mark. 3311⁄⁄88""CCMM

• JoWinAISuTLpINEthe three points with straight lines. This is the front WAISTLINE 1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
14 5C⁄8M"
1.5 CM style line, which separates the new side panel from the 6116⁄2."5 CM

front panel.

• Having removed volume at the side seam, you then need to

remove additional volume from the back panel, to finish the

fitted shape of the jacket. You do this between the new back

and side panels. OLD HEEMMLLIINNEE 83C1⁄8M" 5 C2"M
• ToHcErMeLIaNEte the back style lines, from the center back measure
187C1⁄M8"
61⁄N2EiWnHaEMloLInNEg the waistline and mark, and continue to measure NEW HEMLINE
3⁄8in and a further 3⁄8in and mark both points.
0.5 CM • From the center back measure 71⁄2in along the chest level SISIDDEE SSEEAAMM
and mark, and measure a further 3⁄8in and mark. Measure in

71⁄8in along the original hemline and mark.

• The back side seams start from a point on the back armhole

below the notch; measure up 13⁄4in from the chest level on

the center back and then square across to the back armhole

and mark the point where the line intersects the armhole.

• From this point, starting with a shallow curve, draw the back

style lines, intersecting the points marked on the chest level,

waistline, and original hemline, and continuing down to the

new hemline. 415C⁄8M"
415C⁄8M"
step 6 415C⁄8M"
Developing the front lapel shaping 415C⁄8M"
415C⁄8M"
CHEST LIENVEEL

Lapel shape CENTREER BACK
Pitching back and opening the front GRAINLLIINNEE
chest/lapel shape will enable the
straight sloper front to follow the BACK SIDE SSEEAAMM
contours of a male chest. SBBAACCKKSISIDDEESSEEAAMM

From the chest level measure up 15⁄8in and square a line across; FRONT SIDE SEAM
repeat four times. CENTREER FFRROONNTT
WAISTLINE

OHELDMLHIENME LINE
NEW HEMLINE

Double-breasted Jacket 271

step 7

Developing the welted breast pocket and side

jetted pocket 4 CM

• For the breast pocket placement, from the c4eCnMter front 1.5 9C⁄1M6" 931C⁄2"M
square in 33⁄8in along the chest level; this is th4eCMbottom 1.59C⁄16M"
corner of the rectangular welt opening. CHEST LIENVEEL 8.533C⁄8"M
5 CM2" 124.75⁄8"CM
• From this point, draw a line 31⁄2in long at an angle4 ,CMending WAISTLINE
9⁄16CinHESaTbLoINvEe the chest level. Create a rectangle 9⁄16in w4idCeM by
31⁄2in long. HEMLINE
NEW HEMMLLIINNEE
• A center dart is created to run down into the side jetted
pocket to give shape to the lower chest. This pocket runs off
the front panel into the front style line; when plotting the
pocket measurement do not include the dart width, which
will be added next.

• From the center front measure in 47⁄8in along the chest level
andWAfISrToLmINE here square down to the old hemline. Mark a point
on this line 2in below the chest level; this is the top of
the dart.

• From the front side seam measure in 31⁄2in along the
waistline and mark. Measure a further 9⁄16in and mark; this is
the dart width. From these points draw two straight lines up
to the dart top.

HEMLINE

• The pocket opening sits 9⁄16in below the waistline. Create
a reNEcWtaHEnMgLIlNeE 53⁄4in long and 9⁄16in wide; this is the
pocket opening.
CENTRE BACK
GRAIN LINE

BACK SIDE SEAM
SBACK SIDE SEAM

FRONT SIDE SEAM
CENTRE FRONT
CENTREER BACCKK
GRAINLLIINNEE
BBACK SIDE SSEEAAMM

BACK SIDE SEEAAMM
FRONT SIDEE SSEEAAMM
CENTREER FFRROONNTT
931C⁄2"M 19⁄.156"CM
19⁄.156"CM
19⁄.156"CM
19⁄.156"CM

145.53⁄4C" M

step 8 30⁄1.46" CM
Adding in the volume on the front lapel / 30⁄1.46" CM
chest panel, creating the center dart volume
and front hem styling UNDERARM 30⁄1.46" CM
/USNIDERSAERAMM 30⁄1.46" CM
• From the master plan trace off the front panel only onto CPOIRNNTER 30⁄1.46" CM
a separate piece of paper including all the development in
Steps 6 and 7. FRONT MASTER
PPLALANN
• Cut along the horizontal lines you drew across the chest
and neck from the center front and neck into the shoulder; MOVE SEAM OUT CENTERER FRONT
open each 3⁄16in upward at the front, creating a wedge shape,
adding in a total of 15⁄16in. 1.5 9C⁄1M6"

• Tape against a new piece of paper and redraw the front panel FRONT SIDE SEAM
blending through the open steps.
32⁄4C" M
• When the center dart is sewn up, this will reduce the length
of the top of the jetted pocket. To add back this volume,
square out 9⁄16in (the width of the dart) from the top of the
pocket opening. From here blend a line back up into the front
style line finishing at the armhole.

• To add style shaping to the center front hem, measure down
3⁄4in from the hemline at the new front edge and connect
back to the front style line with a smooth curve.

• Cut another piece of paper and trace off a new front
master plan.

272 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 9
Developing the shaped convertible collar, coin pocket, and hem shaping

Break point and roll line • The welted coin pocket is developed just above the jetted
Locate on the pattern the position where pocket running across the center dart. From the waistline
you want the collar to break on the square up 3⁄8in, then create a rectangle 9⁄16in wide by 23⁄8in
new front edge line of the body panel. long, with the measurement split between each side of the
Consider the proportion of your design dart so that 3⁄4in is toward the center front and 15⁄8in toward
and silhouette length. The point at which the side seam.
the front turns over to create a lapel
is called the break point (BP) and the • At the center front hemline measure back 33⁄4in toward
line that it turns on is the roll line. the side seam and mark; measure 85⁄8in up the center front.
The lower down the front your BP is, the Use a French curve to give a smooth rounded edge to the
wider an opening you will have around the bottom corner.
neck silhouette.
313 ⁄1C6"M E
• From the high point shoulder measure out 1in and mark A
point (C). 415 ⁄C8"M
B
• You will run your roll line through (C); from the waistline D 381 ⁄8C"M
measure 63⁄4in up the front, mark, and label break point.
2.5 C1M" 31⁄8"CM
• Draw a straight line from here up through (C), continue for
31⁄8in, and mark point (A). C
2.5 C1M"
• From (A) square 1in back toward the shoulder and mark COLLAR
point (B). NOTCH

• Draw a line from (B) to (C). Square out 13⁄16in from the top of 3 C13M⁄16" 133C⁄16M"
this line toward the shoulder and mark point (D).
4.513C⁄4"M 52C" M 13⁄C8"M
• From (B) extend the line out 15⁄8in and mark point (E). This is
the width of the collar (23⁄4in) at the center back neck curve. FRONT MASTER ROLL LINE
PPLALANN
• From (E), starting at a right angle, draw out the collar shape
that you require, finishing the collar notch 23⁄8in in from the CHEST LEINVEEL
extended front.
BREAK POINT
• To shape the front of the jacket lapel, measure in 3⁄8in from
the center front neck point. From this point draw a graduated 415⁄C8"M 6173⁄4"CM
line back down the center front to give shape, and draw up 3⁄24"CM
13⁄16in to create the collar point. Draw a line from the collar
point back to the end of the collar notch. CCEENNTTERRE FRONT

• From (D) draw a line back toward the shoulder line, crossing 1.59C⁄1M6" 1 C3⁄M8" 91⁄.156"CM
it 3⁄8in back from the high point shoulder, and blend in to the
curved neck shape—find the angle by measuring in 13⁄4in 825⁄28" CM
from the collar notch and then up 13⁄16in until it connects to
the neckline. HEMLINE
NNEEWW HHEEMMLLIINNEE
Checking the shape
It is always important to check the 9.533C⁄4"M
shape you have created by folding back
the paper on the roll line to assess
it; redraw and develop until you are
satisfied. The sequence above is a method
widely used to draft a basic tailored
collar. Variations can be found in many
patternmaking books, old and new.

Double-breasted Jacket 273

4 CM

step 10 12 CM FFRROONT RIGHT FFRROONNTT LLEEFFTT
Front right and front left CUT 1 SELF CCUUTT 11 SSEELLFF
body patterns
FRONT FACING
• Following the instructions on page 50,FACING LINE CUT 1 PR SEELLFF
trace off the front panel to create the GRAIN LINE
final front right pattern, excluding
the welted breast pocket and the CENTRE FRONT
collar development. GGRRAAIINNLILINNEE
CCEENNTTERRE FFRROONNTT
• To trace off the left side final front CCEENNTTERRE FFRROONNTT
pattern, reverse the master and copy
the underside. Mark the breast pocket GGRRAAIINNLILINNEE
and omit the welted coin pocket.

4 CM 12 CM
4 CM

415C⁄8M"

step 11 GRAIN LINE FRONT LEFT
Developing the front facing CENTRE FRONT CUT 1 SELF
pattern CENTRE FRONT
124C3⁄4M"
• Develop the front facing using the GRAIN LINE
front right panel pattern. FACING LINE124C3⁄M4"

• From the high point shoulder, measure GRAINLILINNEE14 5C⁄8M"
15⁄8in back along tCFhRUOeTN1sTShREILoGFHuTlder seam; CENTERRE FRONT
this is the width of the facing. GGRRAAIINNLILINNEE
CCEENNTTERRE FFRROONNTT
• From the jacket front, measure in
43⁄4in along the chest level and mark,
and repeat at the waistline.

• From the hemline, measure 15⁄8in up
the side seam and from here square
across toward the center front.

• Draw a blended line joining these
points from the shoulder seam
through the chest and waistlines and
continue straight down toward the
line you drew at the hem until the two
intersect 15⁄8in above the hemline.

• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the final facing pattern.

145C⁄8M"

274 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

3.5 CM 3.5 CM 3.5 CM

step 12

Developing the shaped convertible collar and hidden stand

• Trace off the half collar development from Step 9 onto a CB COLLAR MASTER
REMOVE 0.9 CM
• Remove thPLeAsNtand shape from the development by tracing
CB
separate piece of paper. 2 CM 2 CM 2 CM 0.4 CM onto a separate piece of paper; double it over to create the
0.4 CM 2 CMfull stand shape, indicating the vertical cut lines.
• To develop half the concealed stand shape, measuNrEeCK3⁄L4IiNnEup 0.4 CM
• Cut down the vertical lines on the full stand shape, leaving
the center back from the neckline and mark; measure 15⁄8in in thCeOmLLaAtRtach4eCdMat the neckline by a fraction of an inch.
OAvNeGrlLaEp the sections along the top edge, moving them 1⁄8in
from the point at the angle of the front neck curve and mark.

Connect these points with a curved line.

• From the center back measure 3⁄4in along the neckline and toward the center back; this will bring the neckline up.

13⁄8in along the outer edge and mark, repeat twice; divide the • Trace off the half top collar shape onto a separate piece

collar into four sections by connecting these points to form of paper. Cut down the vertical lines from the outer edge,

cut lines through the collar shape. leaving them attached at the bottom by a fraction of an inch.

Starting from the center back, open out each line by 3⁄16in,

curving the top collar down.

3.513⁄8C" M 3.513⁄8C" M 3.153⁄8C" M • Remove 3⁄8in from the center back, which is the amount lost
byCcOlLoLsAinRgMtAhSeTsEtRand up.

PLAN

RREEMMOOVVEE 3⁄8"0.9 CM CB COLLAR MASTER PLAN

3.5 CM 3.5 CM 3.5 CM
2 CM3⁄4" 2 C3M⁄4"
2 C3⁄4M" 2 C3⁄4M"

NE3⁄4C" KLINE3⁄4" 3⁄4"
0.4 CM CB NECKLINE
3⁄160".4 CM COLLAR CO41L5L⁄C8P"AMLRAMN ASTER

ANGLE CCOOLLLALRASRTANSDTAND
2 CM 2 CM 2 CM 2 CM
NECKLINE
REMOVE 0.9 CM 0.4 CM 1⁄80".3 CM CCBB
0.4 CM COLLAR 4 CM 1⁄80".3 CM 1⁄80".3 CM
ANGLE 1⁄80".3 CM 1⁄80".3 CM
1⁄80".3 CM
CB

3⁄106".4 CM 3⁄106."4 CM NNEECCKLKINLEINE
COLLAR MASTER
PLAN

CCBB

COCOLLLLAARRMAMSATESRTPELARN
PLAN

STEP 12

COLLAR STAND TOP COLLAR GRAINLINE
CUT 1 PR SELF
step 13
collar and COLLAR stand patterns 0.3 CM ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT
0.3 CM 0.3 CM 0.3 CM NOTCH NOTCH
0.3 CM
0.3 CM
• Trace off the top cCoOllLaLrAoRnStoTAaNnDew piece of paper and, • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the full
following the instructions on page 50, create the full stand pattern.
pattern shape.
0.3 CM CB 0.3 CM 0.3 CM
0.3 CM CBNECKLINE 0.3 CM
0.3 CM
STEP 12

TOP COLLAR ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT
CUT 1 PR SELF NOTCH NOTCH

NECKLINE GRAINLINE GRAINLINE
ALIGNMENT
NOTCH COLLAR STAND
ALIGNMENT CUT 1 PR SELF
NOTCH

Double-breasted Jacket 275

step 14 SIDE MASTER CLOSE DAARRT SIDE M
Developing the side panel and hem ALLOWANCE PPLLAANN CLOSE DART PLA

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the side WAISTLINE BACK SIDE SEAM WAIST
panel from Step 5 onto a separate piece of paper.
1.5 CM
• Next you need to remove the internal volume by closing the
dart in the side seam. Cut down both sides of the side seam
to the bottom of the shaping and out along the waistline,
making sure to leave the shapes connected by a sliver of
paper at the edges so that the side lengths do not change
when manipulated.

• Reposition by closing up the shape and tape together to
redraw the new side panel shape.

• At the hemline measure 15⁄8in down on both sides and square
across to create a rectangular box; this is the hem allowance.

20 CM

HEMLINE FOLD

415C⁄8M" ALLFOAWCAINNGCE 415C⁄8M" FOL

4 CM

step 15 4 CM 4 CM
Developing the side vent

Parts of the vent BACK SIDEE SSEEAAMM SIDE MASTTEERR SIDE
PPLLAANN CUT 1 PR SEL
The vent development has two parts. One
is a side vent facing that sits SIuDEnMdAeSTrER the WAISTLINE FOLD
back body panel, attached to the PsLiANde
panel. The vent shape is doubled so that
it can be folded back on itself to create
a facing with a mitered top. The second
part is a facing that is developed on the
back panel and sits over the side vent:
This is a single shape that acts as a
facing when turned in.

WAISTLINE

CLOSE DART
CLOSE DART
• To add the side vent to the side panel, square out 15⁄8in from 1.59C⁄16M" SIDE SEAM
the back style line at the hemline and mark. Then measure
out a further 15⁄8in and mark. Square up 15⁄8in (the hem 20 C77M⁄8" FOLD
allowance measurement) and mark, then a further 77⁄8in
(the vent length) and square back into the back panel. 4 CM FOLLDD

• Measure 15⁄8in back along this line and square down to the 415C⁄8M"
mark on the hemline.

• Extend the 15⁄8in facing line from the side panel across
the vent.

• At the top of the vent, measure up 9⁄16in on tHhEMeLIoNEutsideFlOinLDe
and again on the back style line. Connect these two points
back down to the top of the center lin4eCMof the ventF.ATCIhNGis
creates the mitered corner at the top of the vent.

415C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M"

276 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 16
side pattern

• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the side panel pattern.

SSIIDDEE
CCUUTT11PRPRSELF
SELF

SIDE MASTERSIDE SEAM STEP 15
PLAN FFOOLLDD

WAISTLINE GRAIN LINE

CENTER 1 5⁄48"CM
BACK
NECK
POINT

4 C1M5⁄8"

FFOOLDD BACBKACKMMAASSTETREPRLAN
PLAN
FOLD
CCHEHSET LSEVTELLINE

step 17 CECNETENRTBARCKE BACK
Developing the back hem, vent, and back
neck facing WWAAISITSLITNELINEAA
1.5 CM9⁄16"
• From the master plan trace the back panel onto a separate
piece of paper. 2077⁄8" CM

• From the hemline measure down 15⁄8in on both sides and
square across to form a rectangle; this is the hem allowance.

• From the bottom of the hem allowance measure out a further
15⁄8in from the front style line, then square up 15⁄8in (the hem
allowance measurement), then a further 77⁄8in (the vent
length) and square back in to the side panel. From this point
measure up 9⁄16in on the side seam and draw an angled line
back to the top corner of the vent shape.

• The back neck facing is 15⁄8in in width to match the front;
measure 15⁄8in down from the center back neck point and
15⁄8in down the shoulder and connect these two points with
a curved line following the shape of the neckline.

4 C1M5⁄8" FALALOCWIANNCGE 145⁄8C" M
4 1C5⁄8M"

Double-breasted Jacket 277

CENTRE BA STEP 16A
BABCAKCK
4 CM CUCTUT11 PPRRSESLFELF

GRAIN LI FFOOLLDD

4 CM WAISTLINEAA

step 18 1.5 CM

Back panel and back neck facing patterns

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back20 CM
BACK MASTER
• panel pattern. neck facing onto a newPpLieAcNe of paper
Trace off the back

and, following the instructions on4 CpMage 50, cFrAeCIaNGte the fu4llCM FOLD

pattern shape. 4 CM

CHEST LINE

STEP 16B
CENTRE BACK

GGRRAAIINNLILINNEE

GRGAIRNLAIINEN LINE
BBAACCKK NNEECCKK FFAACCIINNGG
CCUUTT 11 SSEELLFF

WAISTLINEAA
1.5 CM

20 CM

4 CM FACING 4 CM
4 CM

STEP 16B ⁄3 8C"M 491⁄11.65"CM ⁄19.51C6M" 1 CM
⁄318C"M
step 19 1 TTOOPPSSTTITICTHCLHINLEINE
Developing the breast pocket top and CCUUTTLLININE EBOBTOPPTTOOOTCCOMKMKESETSTTTOIITPTOCECPNHHEINLLNIGNIINNEEG
bottom bags GRAIN LINE
⁄19.51C6M"
• From the front left finBaAl pCaKttNerEnCiKn SFtAeCpIN9,Gtrace off the breast 91.516C"M⁄
pocket opening onto Ca UseTp1arSaEteLFpiece of paper so that you TOP BREAST POCK
have a rectangle 31⁄2in long by 9⁄16in wide drawn at an angle. GGRRAIAIN LNINLIENE CUT 1 POCKETING

• Extend the top stitch line by 9⁄16in to the right and 3⁄8in to the 142.75⁄8C"M 5143.⁄54"CM
left, and extend the bottom stitch line by 9⁄16in to the left and
3⁄8in to the right. 114.51⁄C2"M

• Connecting these points on the left, draw a 47⁄8in vertical
line down. Connecting the points on the right, draw a 53⁄4in
vertical line down. Square across 41⁄2in at the bottom to
connect these two lines (the width of the pocket bag).

278 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 20
Breast pocket bag patterns

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the pocket
bag shape and add a 3⁄8in seam allowance above the top
stitch line to create the final top pocket bag pattern.

• Trace off the pocket bag shape again as far as the bottom
stitch line, then add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to create the final
bottom pocket bag pattern.

11.5 CM 1.5 CM ⁄13 C8M" 1 CM
1 CM

11.5 CM 1.5 CM 1 CM

CUT LINECUTBLTOIPONTOPETCOSKTMEIBTTSTOCPTOOHTOIPPTTCLECOSIKNHNTMEIEINLTTSIGCNTOHEIPTLECINHNIENLIGNE 1 CM 1.5 CM 1.5 CM
M
⁄13C8M" ⁄13C8M"

1 CM 1 CM 1 CM

2.5 CM

⁄13 C8M" 1 CM

TOP BREAST BOTTOMBOTBTORMEBARESATST POCKET BAG 2.5 CM 2.5 CM
TOP BREASPCTCTOUOUPPTOTCB1CRPKK1EOEAECTPSKTBTOEATPBCGIONACKGKGEETTBINAGG BPCCOUOUTTTTC1OPKM1OEBCPRKCTOEEUTATBCISN1ATKGPPGOEOCTCKKIENETTIGNBGAG

CUT 1 POCKETING

GRAIN LINE GGRRAIANI LINNLIENE 1.5 CM 1.5 C
GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE 14.5 CM GGRRAIAIN LNINLIENE
GRAIN LINE 14.5 CM

1 CM

11.5 CM
11.5 CM

step 21
DEVELOPING THE Breast pocket welt

Welts • Mirror this parallelogram along the fold line.
• Add a 9⁄16in seam allowance to both long sides of the shape
If your welted pocket is angled, then the
welt will need to reflect this. Welts can and a 3⁄8in allowance to the shorter sides.
be the same size or larger than pocket
openings and are doubled over so they 13C8M"⁄
have two layers of fabric, with a fusing
layer in between for rigidity. 391C⁄2M" ⁄91.516C"M

13C8M"⁄

1 CM

1 CM ⁄19.5 1C6M" BRBCCERUUFAETTOAF11SSOLSFTTLDUEDPLSPOFEOCKCETKWEETLTWELT GGRRAINAILINNLEINE 2.51C"M
CCEFNEOTNRLETDFEOLRLIDNLEIN39E1C⁄2M"
• From the front left pattern in Step 9, trace one long side of

the breast pocket opening onto a separate piece of paper 21.5"CM 21.5" CM
so that you have a line 311C⁄M2in long at the same angle as the
⁄91.516C"M
breast pocket itself. This will become the center fold line. CCUUTT11SFEULSFE
FFOOLLDD
Copy the direction of the grainline across, too. 2.51C"M

BREAST POCKET BAG • Parallel to the grainline, draw 1in lines up fromBOTTOM BREAST POCKET BAG both 13C8M"⁄
1 POCKETING CUT 1 POCKETING

ends of the line and mark. Connect these marks to create ⁄19.51C6"M 391C⁄2M"
GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE a parallelogram. 31 C8"M⁄

Double-breasted Jacket 279

step 22
Developing the coin pocket top and bottom bag

• Draw a rectangle 23⁄8in wide and 21⁄2in tall (the size of the • Square up 9⁄16in on both sides and connect these points to
coin pocket bag). Label the top edge as the bottom stitch line create a second rectangle.
and add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides. This is the bottom
coin pocket bag. • Label the top edge of this rectangle as the top stitch line.
Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides. This is the top coin
• Draw another rectangle the same size and again label the top pocket bag.
edge as the bottom stitch line.

STEP 19C STEP 19C

STEP 19B

1 CM STEP 19 A ⁄318C"M 23⁄86"CM ⁄31 8C"M
1 CM ⁄1 C3M8" TOPTSOPTSITTICTCHH LLINIENE ⁄31 C8"M
1.5 CM ⁄318C1"MCM 23⁄86" 6 CM ⁄318C"1MCM ⁄91.156C"M 1 CM
CM ⁄31 C8"M1.5 CM ⁄1.59C1M6" 1 CM
6.5 CM 26.51⁄2C"M
⁄113.C58M"CM BOTTOBOMTTOSMTSITTITCCHH LLINIENE 2 CM BOT

2 CM COIN POCKET WELT 2 CM BOTTOBMOTSTOTMITSTCITHCHLLIINNEE BOTTOM COIN POCKET BAG
CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 POCKETING
62.51⁄2C"M TOP COIN POCKET BAG
BCPBOUTOTOT1COTPMTKOCCOCEOKUMTEITNT1IBPNCOFGAUOCSKGIEENT BAG
CUT 1 POCKETING TCOUPT 1CPOOCIKNETING
POCKET BAG
FOLD CUT 1 POCKETING
GRAIN LINE FOLD
GRAIN LINE
62.51C⁄22M"CM 62.51C⁄2M" GRAINLINEGRAIN LINE 6.5 CM

1.5 CM GRAINLINE 1.5 CM

1 CM 1 CM 6 CM 1 CM ⁄13C8M" ⁄13C8M" 1 CM
1 CM ⁄31 8C"M ⁄31 8C"M 1 CM
⁄31 C8"M 263C⁄8M" ⁄31 C8"M
⁄13C8M" ⁄31 8C"M

263C⁄8M"

STEP 19B

STEP 19 A 1 CM

⁄3 18"CM 23⁄86" CM ⁄3 18"CM 1 CM
⁄19.51C6M" ⁄1.95 1C6M"
step 23 1.5 CM
DEVELOPING THE Coin pocket welt
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 23⁄8in ⁄324C"M CCCCOUOUTTIINN1P1SOPESCLOKFEECLTKFWEELTT WELT ⁄23C4M" TOP CO
⁄324C"M CCUUTT11FUFSUE SE ⁄23C4M" CUT 1 P
long and 11⁄2in wide to create a rectangular-shaped welt.
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the FFOOLLDD GRAIGRNAILIN LNINEE FFOOLLDD

center, and label it fold. 6.5 CM
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to each end and a 9⁄16in seam
⁄91.156C"M 263⁄C8"M ⁄1.95 1C6M"
allowance to each long side to create the final pocket ⁄3 18"CM ⁄3 81"CM
welt pattern.
1 CM
280 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear 1 CM

step 24
Developing the top and bottom side pocket bags

• Draw a rectangle 53⁄4in wide and 61⁄4in tall (the size of the • Square up 9⁄16in on both sides and connect these points
coin pocket bag). Label the top edge as the bottom stitch line to create a second rectangle. Label the top edge of this
and add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides. This is the bottom rectangle as the top stitch line. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on
side pocket bag. all sides. This is the top side pocket bag.

• Draw another rectangle the same size and again label the top
edge as the bottom stitch line.

STEP 20 A

STEP 20 B ⁄13C8M" 5143.⁄54"CM ⁄3C8M"
⁄13C8M"
⁄31 C8"M ⁄19.51C6M" TOPTSOTITPCHSLTINITE CH LINE 1
⁄13C8M" BOTTBOOMTSTTITOCMH LISNETITCH LINE
1 CM STEP 20 C
1 CM 14.5 CM
1.5 CM 5134⁄.45"CM ⁄31 8C"M ⁄13C8M" 1
BOTTOM STITCHBLOINTETOM STITCH LINE ⁄13C8M" 1 CM
16 CM ⁄1.95 1C6M"
16 CM
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM

BOTTOM SIDE 1.5 CM SIDE POCKET JET TOPTPOOSIPCDEKSPEIODTCEKBETABGAGGRAIN LINE FOLD 1.5 CM
POCKET BAG 1 CM CUT 2 PR SELF
CUT 1 PR CUCT U1 PTR POCKETING 1 CM
POCKETING 1 CM 16 CM
1 PR 166 1C⁄4M"
BOTTOM SIDE POCKET BAG 61⁄4" POCKETING
CUT 1 PR POCKETING GRAIN LINE 1 CM

GRAIN LINE 14.5 CM

16 CM 61⁄4"

61⁄4" 16 CM

GRAINLINE GRAINLINE

1 CM ⁄13C8M" ⁄13C8M" ⁄13C8M" 5143.⁄54"CM ⁄13C8M" 1 CM
1 CM ⁄31 8C"M ⁄1 C3M8" ⁄13 C8M" ⁄13 C8"M 1C

5143.⁄54"CM

step 25

DESVTEP2E0A LOPING THE Side pocket jet STEP 20 B

1 CM 14.5 CM 1 CM STEP 20 C

1 CM 1 CM ⁄ "318CM SIDE POCKET JET
⁄ "318CM CUT 2 PR SELF
1.5 CM • On a separateTOP STITCH LINE piece of paper,1.5 CM draw a ho1 CMriz1 CMontal box 5 ⁄ in1 214.5 CM long 1 CM ⁄ "318CM
1 CM 5 ⁄ "14.5 C3M4 ⁄ "13C8M
(the width of theBOTTOM STITCH LINE side pocket opening) by 9⁄16in wide to createBOTTOM STITCH LINE
16 CM
the side pocket jet. ⁄ "911.56CM SIDE POCKET JET FOFOLLDD ⁄ "19.5 C1M6
CUT 2 PR SELF
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the GRAINLIGNRAEIN LINE
TOP SIDE POCKET BAG ⁄ "31CM 5 ⁄ "143.54CM ⁄ "13CM8
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
BOTTOM SIDE POCKET BAG 8
center, and label it fold. CUT 1 PR POCKETING

16 CM GRAIN LINE 16 CM ⁄ "318CM ⁄ "31CM
GRAIN LINE
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all side16sCM to create the final 8

side pocket jet pattern.

1 CM 14.5 CM 1 CM 1 CM 14.5 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM

Double-breasted Jacket 281

30⁄.165"CM FRONT
HIGH POINT
SHOULDER

step 26 SHOULDER
Developing the front lining TPIOPINT

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the 0.53C⁄16M"
front body panel from Step 9. Remove the facing shape from
the front; the remaining shape will become the front lining. UNDERARM 30⁄.156"CM
PU/CONSOIDINRDETNEREASRREMAM
• Next you need to add ease by increasing the armhole width GRAINLLIINNEE
to allow for movement. At the shoulder tip measure out 0.53C⁄1M6"
3⁄16in and mark, and up 3⁄16in and mark. Find the new shoulder
tip, and draw a straight line back toward the front high FRONT LINING
point shoulder. CUT 1 PR LINING

• From the top of the front style line measure up 3⁄16in and
mark, and out 3⁄16in and mark. Find the point and using a
French curve draw a line 3⁄16in out from the original armhole
back up to the new shoulder tip.

• From the new point blend the front side seam down to meet
the original hemline.

• From the hemline extend the front style line and the front
edge down by 3⁄4in and square across; this will create
an overlap to allow movement when bending over in
the garment.

• Draw a fold line 3⁄8in up from the new hemline.

2 C3⁄4M" FOLD
NEW HEMLINE
32⁄4C" M

282 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

HOULDER HIGH POINT
OINT SHOULDER

0.5 CM

3⁄24"CM 3⁄01.6"5 CM
TBPSIAPOHCOKINSUTHLODULEDRER
0.5 CM step 27 PPLLEAETAT GGRRAIANILINNELINE 03⁄1.65" CM
GRAIN LINE Developing the back lining 3 11.23⁄58"CM
M 03⁄1.65" CM
.5 CM • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the CCEENTNETRRBAECKBACK PUCU/ SNOONIDRDIDENENREESTARERRAMAMRM
back body panel from Step 17. Remove the hem allowance
shape; the remaining shape will become the back lining. BBAACKC LIKNILINGNING
CCUTU 1T P1R LPINRINLIGNING
• You need to add ease to the center back to allow the lining
0.5 CM to expand across the shoulderblades and also to increase the 2 C3M⁄4" FFOOLLDD 23⁄4"CM
armhole to allow for movement.
FRONT LINING
CUT 1 PR LINING• Fold over the vent shape onto the pattern, trace around it,
and then remove the vent and its negative shape from the
back style line.

• From the center back neck point measure out 3⁄4in and then
square down 123⁄8in and square back in; this will become the
pleat at the center back.

• From the back shoulder tip measure out 3⁄16in and mark, and
up 3⁄16in and mark. Find the new back shoulder tip and draw a
straight line from here back toward the high point shoulder.

• From the top of the back style line measure out 3⁄16in and
mark. From this new point, and using a French curve, draw a
line 3⁄16in out from the original armhole back up to the new
shoulder tip.

• From the new point blend the back style line down to meet
the original hemline.

• From the hemline extend the center back seam and the
side vent seam down by 3⁄4in and square across; this will
create an overlap to allow movement when bending over
in the garment.

• Draw a fold line 3⁄8in up from the new hemline.

SHOULDER FOLD SBIADCEKSUENADMEUBCRANCODAKERRRMNAER/MR 30.156"CM⁄⁄301.56"CM
30.156"CM⁄
2POINT CM 2 CM 0.5 CM POINT UFUFRNRNODODNENERTATRRAMRM / SIDE
0.5 CM PSOEIANTM CORNER
NDERARM ⁄0.53 C16M"
OINT ⁄30.156C" M
0.5 CM stNEeWp H2E8MLINE 2 CM SHOULDER
Developing the side lining POINT
2 CM 0.5 CM

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the PLEAT
31.5 CM GRAIN LINE

CENTRE BACK
side panel from Step 15. Remove the hem allowance and the 0.5 CM
0.5 CM
GRAIN LINE vent shape; the remaining shape will become the side lining. UNDERARM
POINT

• Next you need to add ease to the underarm shape to allow GGRRAIAINNLILINENE

the lining to expand, giving increased movement to the

armhole width. At the top of the front and back style lines

measure up 3⁄16in and mark, and measure out 3⁄16in and mark.

Find the new points (the front and back underarm / side

seam corners), and using a French curve connect them up at
BACK LINING
a distance of 3⁄16in out from the original armhole. CUT 1 PR LINING

• From the underarm / side seam corner blend the style lines

down to meet the original hemline.
FRONT LINING
• From the hemline extend the back and front style lines downCUT 1 PR LINING SSIIDDEELILNIINNIGNG
CCUUTT11PRPLIRNILINNGING
by 3⁄4in and square across; this will create2 CMan oveFOrLlDap to2 CaM llow

movement when bending over in the garment.

• Draw a fold line 3⁄8in up from the new hemline.

FOLD 2 CM
NEW HEMLINE
2 3C⁄4M" FFOOLLDD 23⁄4C"M

Double-breasted Jacket 283

step 29
Developing the two-piece tailored sleeve

Measurements required to develop the sleeve • From (B) measure out 1in and mark point (D), and measure
in 1in and mark point (E). From (C) measure in 3⁄8in and mark
Measurements required to draft the point (F), and measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (G).
tailored two-piece sleeve are as follows.
• Armhole 207⁄8in + 15⁄8in ease = 221⁄2in. • To establish the front notch on the armhole divide the sleeve
cap height (7in) by 2 to give 31⁄2in, and subtract 3⁄4in to give
(Take this measurement from the 23⁄4in. This will ensure a rectangular shape to the sleeve cap
basic upper body sloper.) instead of the square shape that would occur if the sleeve
• Sleeve length to wrist = 251⁄4in. cap were just divided in half. From (B) measure up 23⁄4in,
(Taken from the shoulder tip, running make a mark and label it front notch.
down the back of the elbow to the
wrist; extra length can be added at • From (4) square out to the left to intersect the line from
this point to suit your design.) (5) to (7) and mark point (H), and square out to the right to
• Top of sleeve cap to elbow length = intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (I). This is
133⁄4in. the elbow level.
• Upper biceps circumference = 16in.
(This measurement is taken round the • From (H) measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (J), and measure
upper arm; extra width “ease” can be in 15⁄8in and mark point (K).
added for movement.)
• Cuff measurement = 113⁄4in. Remove 5 1 10.541C⁄8"M 6
3⁄8in from each side to reduce the cuff
width from the basic tapered sloper,
which is 125⁄8in.
• Sleeve cap height = 7in.

10.451⁄8C" M

• Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the NFRPPFOROOITTOINCCNNTHHTT 71"7.6 CM 52.38⁄8"CM2.5 C1"M
length of your sleeve or the arm length of your fit model. 263.9⁄4"CM A

• Draw a 251⁄4in vertical line down the center and label it D BE BACK
center line; label the top of this line (1) and the bottom (2). PNIOTTCCHH
This is the length of the sleeve. POINT

• From (1) measure down 7in (the sleeve cap height, or one- 13353⁄4C"M F
third of the armhole measurement, not including ease) and BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE
label point (3). C G
3
• From (1) measure down 133⁄4in (the elbow length) and label 2.5 C1"M SSEEAAMM 1 3⁄C8"M
point (4). 2.5 C1"M
1 3⁄C8"M SEAM
• Divide the armhole measurement (221⁄2in) by 6 to give 33⁄4in
and add 3⁄8in volume to give 41⁄8in. From (1) square out 41⁄8in SLEEVE BBAACCKK BACK
to the left and to the right and label these points (5) and (6). MASTER
PATTERN FURNODENTRSSLLEEEEVVEE SLEEVE
• From (2) measure out 41⁄8in to the left and to the right and
label these points (7) and (8). 251⁄4" TOP

• Connect points (5), (6), (7), (8) to form a rectangle. H K ELBOW LIENVEEL
• Divide the sleeve cap height (7in) by 3 to give 23⁄8in. From (6) J 4
TOP SLEEVE FROORENTARSMEASMEAM I
measure down 23⁄8in, make a mark and label it back notch.
From the back notch square in 1in and mark point (A); this is 1 3C⁄8M" CENTERRE LINE
the top point of the back seam on the undersleeve. UNDERSSLLEEEEVVEEFFROORNETASREMASMEAM 415C⁄8"M
• From (3) square out to the left to intersect the line from
(5) to (7) and mark point (B), and square out to the right to TOP SLEEVE BOTTOM
intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (C). This is CUFF POINT M PCSCUOLUNUEIFFDNEFFETVRPESOLINETEVE
the biceps level.
32⁄4"CM 153" CM
TOP SLEEVE 32⁄4"CML
CUFF POINT 23⁄4C" M
N
7 CUFF16H73⁄4E"CMMLINES 2 8

284 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

• From (7) measure up 3⁄4in and from this point measure out • Measure the length of this line and compare it to the
3⁄4in and mark point (L); this is the top sleeve cuff point. measurement of the armhole on the front and back patterns.
Measure in 3⁄4in and mark point (M); this is the undersleeve Here the length should be 117⁄8in. Adjust the curves until the
cuff point. line is the correct measurement.

• The cuff circumference is 113⁄4in. Divide this between the top • Using a French curve, draw in the top of the undersleeve with
and undersleeve so that the top sleeve cuff width is 63⁄4in convex curve starting at (E) up to (A).
and the undersleeve is 5in. This allows the top sleeve seams
to fall toward the back of the arm, slightly out of view. • Again, measure this line and adjust it until it is the same
measurement as the armhole on the front and back
• From (L) draw a line 63⁄4in long to intersect the line from (7) patterns—in this case 87⁄8in.
to (8) and mark point (N). From (M) draw a line 5in long to
intersect the line from (7) to (8), also at point (N). These are • Draw in the back seam of the top sleeve with a blended line
the cuff hemlines. from the back notch through points (G) to (I) and continue
down to (N).
• Draw in the top sleeve front seam by drawing a blended line
connecting the points from (L) through (J) to (D). • Draw in the back seam of the undersleeve with a blended line
from (A) through (F) to (I) and also continue with this seam
• Draw in the undersleeve front seam by drawing a blended on the same line as the top sleeve down to (N).
line connecting the points from (M) through (K) to (E).

• Using a French curve, draw in the top sleeve cap starting at
(D) with a concave curve through the front notch where you
reverse the curve to a convex curve up to (1) and back down
to the back notch with a similar convex curve.

step 30 STEP 25 A
Developing the final top sleeve pattern with cuff vent
GGRRAIAINLNINLIENE
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top
sleeve onto a separate piece of paper.

• From the bottom of the sleeve measure down 13⁄16in and draw
a rectangular box to create the facing strip.

• Extend the length of the cuff facing by 13⁄16in at the back
seam and square up 4in to create a rectangular box 13⁄16in in
width. This is the cuff extension.

• Measure a further 9⁄16in up the back seam and join this point
to the outer corner of the box, creating an angle and shape
similar to the center back vent.

• The corner is folded to create a mitered corner during
construction.

TTOOPPSLSELEEVEEVE
CCUUTT11PRP SRESLFELF

1.5 C9⁄M16"

FFOOLLDD FFOOLLDD
CCUUFFFFFAFCAICNGING 4"10 CM

3 C13M⁄16"

313C⁄16"M

3 13⁄C16"M

Double-breasted Jacket 285

step 31GRAIN LINE
Developing the final undersleeve pattern
with cuff vent GGRRAIAINLINNLEINE

• Trace off the undersleeve onto a separate piece of paper and,TOP SLEEVE41"0 CM
following the instructions on page 50, reverse it by turningCUT 1 PR SELF FFOOLLDD
it over. UUNNDEDRESRLESELVEEEVE
CCUUTT1 1PRPSRELSFELF91⁄1.65" CM
• From the bottom of the sleeve measure down 13⁄16in and draw
a rectangular box to create the facing strip.

• Extend the length of the cuff facing by 13⁄16in at the back
seam and square up 4in to create a rectangular box 13⁄16in in
width. This is the cuff extension.

• Measure a further 9⁄16in up the back seam and join this point
to the outer corner of your rectangular box, creating an
angle and shape similar to the center back vent.

• The corner is folded to create a mitered corner
during construction.

1.5 CM

FOLD
10 CM

3 CM FOLD FFOOLLDD 133⁄1C6"M
CUFF FACING CUCUFFFF FFAACCININGG
3 CM
3 C13M⁄16"
3 CM
3 13⁄C16"M

286 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 32
Developing the final two-piece sleeve lining patterns

Matching the measurements • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the
top sleeve from the sleeve master plan.
Having enlarged the armhole of the body
panel lining, we will now increase the • From the shoulder tip measure up 3⁄16in and mark, and from
sleeve cap so that the measurements the front and back shoulder tips measure out 3⁄16in and mark,
match. At the cuff hem we will increase and measure up 3⁄16in and mark. Find the new points and
the length of the lining so that when the connect these to new shoulder tip with a curved line.
arm is raised the lining will not pull
the outer sleeve. • From the new shoulder tips draw a line down to blend in with
the cuff hem.

• From the cuff hem measure down 3⁄4in and square across to
increase the length of the lining. Draw a fold line 3⁄8in inside
the new hemline.

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
undersleeve lining pattern.

• At the top of the front and back shoulder tips measure up
3⁄16in and mark, and measure out 3⁄16in and mark; connect
these points with a curved line.

• From the new shoulder tips draw a line down to blend in with
the cuff hem.

• From the cuff hem measure down 3⁄4in and square across to
increase the length of the lining. Draw a fold line 3⁄8in inside
the new hemline.

CROWN 0.5 CM BACK BACK 0.5 C 30⁄M.156"CM30⁄.156"CM
STOLEPPEOOVCPFEIONRCTOINAWTPN SHOULDER SHOULDER 0.5 C 30⁄M.165"CM
30⁄.156"CM POBIANCTK TIP 0.5 CM
FRONT
SHOULDER 0.5 CM SHOULDER 0.53⁄C16M"
POFIRNOT NT 0.5 CMTPIOPINT
30⁄.165"CM 0.5 CM
SHOULDER 30⁄.156"CM
TPIOPINT
0.5 CM GRAIN LINE FRONT
0.5 CM GRAINLLIINNEE SHOULDER
30⁄.165"CM TIP
0.53C⁄16M"
30⁄.156"CM

0.5 CM

GRAINLLIINNEE
GRAIN LINE

TOP SLEEVE LINING UNDERSSLLEEEEVVEELILINININNGG
TOP SCLUETE1VEPRLILINININNGG UNDECRUSTL1EPERVELI LNIINNIGNG
CUT 1 PR LINING CUT 1 PR LINING

2 CM FOLD 2 CM FOLD 23⁄4C" M
FOLD FOLD
2 C3⁄M4" 23⁄4C" M 2 CM

2 C3⁄4M" Double-breasted Jacket 287

2 CM

pattern
Waxed Jacket

This pattern includes development of the following features:
Adding volume to the side seam
Enlarging the neckline
Creating a sewn-on front placket
Extending the hemline
Creating side vents
Developing a waist belt
Dropping the shoulder
Lowering the armhole
Developing breast and front patch pockets with gussets

and flaps
Developing a back envelope pocket with side zipper
Developing a shaped convertible collar with stand
Developing raglan sleeves with elbow patches
Developing a full body lining

288 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 1 CCHHEESSTTLELIVNEEL BPPNIAOBTOCAICNTCKHCTKH
Developing the master plan BACK MASTER FRONT
NPOITTCCHH
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by PLAN POINT
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the FRONT MASTER
length of the jacket you want to develop and transfer the shape PLAN
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following CENTREER BACK
the directions on page 48. SIDE SEAAMM
GRAINLLIINNEE

CENTREER FRROONNTT

WAISTLINE

HIEPMLLEINVEL

step 2 FRONT HIGH POINT 3⁄0.165"CM FRONT HIGH POINT
Developing the enlarged neck, dropped SHOULDER 31⁄8"CM SHOULDER
shoulder, lowered armhole, and extended hem 31⁄8"CM
length, and adding volume to the side seam CENTRERE FRONT
30⁄.165"CM NECK POINT

0.53⁄1C6"M 23⁄4C" M

• From the center front neck point measure down 3⁄4in and at NEW BACK 32⁄4C" M NEW FRONT
the front high point shoulder measure in 3⁄16in; repeat at the NOTCH NOTCH
back by measuring in 3⁄16in from the back high point shoulder. CHEST LEINVEEL
Using the basic upper body sloper as a template draw in the 3.5 1C3M⁄8" 3.5 1C3M⁄8"
new front and back neck curves.
BACK MASTER NUENWDEURNADREMR/ASRIMDEPSOEINATM
• Open up the side seam by adding in 3⁄4in between the front PLAN CORNER
and back body panels and repositioning.
WAISTLINE FRONT MASTER
• From the front and back shoulder tips measure up 3⁄16in and PPLAN
out 3⁄8in over the armhole and make a mark. CENTERRE BACK NEW SIDE SEAM
GRAINLLIINNEE
• From the chest level square down 13⁄8in on each side and,
starting from the new underarm / side seam corner, redraw CENTERRE FRONT
the new armhole shape using the basic upper body slopers CENTRE BACK
as a template. Draw in the new notch positions on the
lowered armhole. HEMLINE

• To create the jacket length, extend the center front and 114C3⁄M8" 4113⁄8C" M
center back lines down by 43⁄8in. Square across to create the
new hemline and bring down the side seam line to meet it. NEW HEMLINE

2 3C⁄4M"

waxed jacket 289

0.5 CM BACK HIGH
1 CM POINT
1 CM
SHOULDER
0.5 CM
step 3 CENTRE FRONT 14 5C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M"
Creating the raglan shoulder shapes NECK POINT 263C⁄8"M
and front placket width 0.5 CM AALLIIGGNNMMEENNTT
13.5 5C3M⁄8" NOTCHES AALLIIGGNNMMEENNTT
• From the high point shoulder measure 15⁄8in down the bac2kCM NNOOTCTCHHES 41 ⁄324"CM
neck curve and 15⁄8in down the front neck curve and mark.
1 3C⁄8"M NEW 1 3⁄C8"M
• From the new underarm / side seam corner measure 33⁄4in UNNEDWERARM
up the front aCHrEmSThLoINlEe and make a2 CmM ark, and measure CHEST LEINVEEL / USNIDDEESREAARMM
33⁄4in up the ba3c.5kCMarmhole and make a ma3r.5kC.M PCOOINRTNER

• From these points draw straight lines up to the marks you .53C3⁄4M"9 93.53 ⁄4C"M
made on the front and back neck cuNrEvWeUsN. DERARM POINT

• From the back BnAeCcKkMAcSuTErRve measure 53F⁄R8OiNnT dMAoSwTEnR this line and
then square up 3⁄8PiLnA.NFrom the front neckPLmANeasure 43⁄4in
down the lineWAaISnTdLINtEhen square up 3⁄8in.

• With a shallow curve, draw another line from the points on
the back and front neck curves to the armholes, this time
passing through the marks at 3⁄8in.

• Trace off the shoulder shapes ready to transfer to the sleeve,
adding front and back notches for alignment.

• To create theHEsMeLwINEn-on placket, square out 13⁄16in at the center
front1n1 eCMck point and mark, and square in 13⁄16in and mark. 11 CM
Repeat at the new hemline on the center front and mark.
Join these poNEinWtHsEMtoLINcEreate the 23⁄8in placket shape.
CENTRE BACK CENTERRE BACK BACK MASTER NEW SIDE SEAMFRONT MASTER
NEW SIDE SEAM PLAN GRAINLLIINNEEPPLLAANN

GRAIN LINE WAISTLINE CENTERER FRONT
CENTRE FRONT PLACKET SHAPRE

NEW HEMLINE

2 CM 62C3⁄8M"

step 4 133C⁄16M"
Developing the placket stitch line, folded hem
ALLOWANCE, side vent, and waist belt position FFRRONT
MASTER
• Trace off onto a separate piece of paper the front body
pattern from the previous step without the raglan shape. PPLAN

• To indicate the stitch line placement for the sewn-on placket 5 CM
draw a dotted line from the neckline to the hemline at
a distance of 13⁄16in in from the center front. SIDE SEAM PLACKET STITCH LINEE SIDE SEAM
31⁄8"CM CENTREER FRONT
• To indicate the hem allowance stitch line draw a dotted line 4110⁄8."5 CM
13⁄16in above the hemline.
2.5 CM1" WAIST WAISTLINE W
• From the center front measure in 2in along the hem 2.5 CM1" BELT 20
and then square down 13⁄16in; this is the starting point for 19
the hem allowance. 2 C3M⁄4" 32⁄4C" M
415C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M" 17
• Extend the hem allowance along to the side seam and square 6.5 CM
up. At this point measure out 15⁄8in plus a further 15⁄8in; this
is the side vent width with a central fold line. 2597C⁄8M" SIDE VENT
FOLD
• From the top of the hem allowance at the end of the side 3 CM
vent square up 97⁄8in and then square back to the side seam; FAHCEINMGSSTTITITCCHHLLININEE 133C⁄16M" 1.5 CM 3 CM
this is the side vent length.
3 1C3⁄M16" FOLD FOLD
• On top of the vent length measure up 3⁄4in; from this point HHEEMMAFLALCOIWNAGNCE HEM FACING
draw a line back to the side vent fold line and then angle
back up to meet the side seam at the same 3⁄4in height. 133C⁄16M" 5 2C"M

• To develop the waist belt position measure up and down 1in 14 5C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M"
on the side seam each side of the waistline; this is the belt
width. From these points create a rectangle 2in wide by 41⁄2in
long along the waistline. From the front of the rectangle,
measure back 3⁄8in either side and draw two lines back down
to the center to create the waist belt tip.

290 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

step 5
Developing front patch pocket parts and positions

Matching the measurements • From this point create a rectangle 63⁄4in high by 71⁄2in wide;
this is your pocket bag shape. Round off the bottom corners
Having enlarged the armhole of the body by measuring 13⁄16in up and in from each corner.
panel lining, we will now increase the
sleeve cap so that the measurements • The lower pocket flap position sits 3⁄8in above the bag and
match. At the cuff hem we will increase is 3⁄16in wider on each side edge. Measure up 3⁄8in above the
the length of the lining so that when the pocket bag and from this point create a rectangle 77⁄8in long
arm is raised the lining will not pull and 21⁄2in wide sitting over the pocket bag.
the outer sleeve.

313C⁄16M"

3 CM FFRROONNTT
MASTER
• Trace off onto a separate piece of paper the front bMoFARdSOyTNETR
PLAN PPLLAANN

pattern from the previous step. 135"CM

• To establish the position of the front breast patch pocket 153" CM 133.5⁄8"CM
4132⁄4"CM 91⁄.156"CM
bag, measure 33⁄4in up from the waistline and 21⁄8in in from 5 C2M"
the center front and mark; this is the bottom right corner of 5.251⁄8C" M
PLACKET STITCH LINE SIDE SEAM
your pocket bag. SIDE SEAM CENTRE FRONT CENTERER FRONT
1 CM
• From this point create a rectangle 5in high by 43⁄4in wide; 9.53C3⁄M4"
this is the pocket bag shape. Round off the bottom corners.

• The breast pocket flap position sits 3⁄8in10a.5bCoMve the bag and is

3⁄16in wider on each side. Measur2e.5uCMp 3⁄8BWiEAnLITSaT bove WthAIeSTLpINoEcket WAISTLINE
2.5 CM 2077C⁄8"M
bag and from this point cre2aCMte a rectan2gCleM 5in long and 2in 1791⁄2"CM
wide sitting over the pocket bag4.CFMr4oCmM the bottom line of the
6.251⁄2C" M 6137⁄4"CM
rectangle measure up 9⁄16in on each side and draw two lines

back down to the center to create an envelope point to the 52"CM

pocket flap. 25 CM SIDE VENT
FOLD
• To develop the lower waist pocket bag shape underneath the 31C3⁄M16" 133⁄C16M"
1.5 9C⁄1M6" 133C⁄16M" 133⁄C16M" 19⁄.156"CM
waistline, measure 9⁄16in up from the facing stitch line and 2in
in from the center front and make a mark;FAtFChOINiLsGD SisTITtChHeLINbEottom 3 CM FOLD
right corner of the pocket 3bCaMg. HEM AFALLCOINWGANCE

HEM FACING 3 CM 5 CM

4 CM 4 CM

step 6 step 7
Front pattern and developing Front facing pattern
the front facing
52C" M
• Following the instructions on page
50, trace off the front body pattern, • Following the instructions on page
annotating all the positions needed for 50, trace off the front facing, adding
pockets and belt. alignment notches and a 3⁄8in seam
allowance on all sides to create the
• Draw a vertical dotted line from the final pattern.
neckline to the hemline at a distance
of 2in from the center front line; FRONT
this will become the width of the CUT 1 PR SELF
facing pattern. FOLD GRAINNLILINNEE
GRAINLLIINNEE
FROFNRTOFNATCIFNACGING
FRONT FACING LINE CUTC1UTPR1 SPERLSFELF
PLACKET STITCH LINE

FOLD

52C" M

waxed jacket 291

step 8
Front breast patch pocket patterns with gusset

• Following the instru3CMctions on page 50, trace off the breast edge of the bag shape that will be stitched down to the
1 CM jacke1tCM b2CMody—in this case 141⁄8in. Draw the gusset as a long
1 CM
rFOeLD ctangular shape, 141⁄8in long by 13⁄16in wide, and add a 3⁄8in
1 CM 1 CM
seam allowance on all sides.
pocket flap pattern; GRAIN LINE add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all1CM sides.
2 CM

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the breaFsOLDt

pocket bag pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance all aroundBREASTPOCKETBAG1 CM 1 CM
3 CM CUT 1 PR SELF

the outside edge36CM 1aCnM d a36CM 3⁄4in1 CMfacing strip to the top opening GRAIN LINE ⁄13C8M" ⁄13 C8M"
⁄23C4M" ⁄32 4C"M
edge, which will be folded into the bag.
BREAST POCKET GUSSET
CUT 1 PR SELF

GRAIN LINE
• The measurements to develop the gusset on the breast FFOOLLDD FFOOLLD D

patch pocket bag are taken by measuring around the outside

1 CM 1 CM

1 CM 3 CM BBRREAESAT SPOTCKPEOT CBAKGET
1 CM BCUATG1 PR SELF
CUT 1 PR SELF
36 CM 36 CM GGRRAIANILINNLEINE

3⁄8"1 CM 1 CM3⁄8"
3⁄8" 1 CM 1 CM3⁄8"

BREAST POCKET GUSSETBREAST POCKET FLAPGRAIGRNAINLILINENE
CUT 1 PR SELFCUT 2 PR SELF

BREAST POCKET FLAP
CUT 2 PR SELF

1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 36 CM 1 CM

1 CM 3 CM
1 CM

3⁄8"3 CM1 CM 141⁄8" 1 CM GRAINLINE GRAIN LINE 3⁄8" 3 CM
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM3⁄8" BREAST PBORCKEEAT GSUTSSPETOCKET GUSSET 13⁄8"CM
CUT 1 PRCSEULFT 1 PR SELF
13⁄16" 13⁄16"
141⁄8"
1 C3M⁄8" 13⁄8"CM

3⁄8" 3⁄8"
1 CM 36 CM 1 CM
step 9 BREAST POCKET FLAP
CUT 2 PR SELF GRAIN LINE

Front waist patch pocket patterns with gusset

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the waist • The measurements to develop the gusset on the breast

pocket flap pattern, doubling it over along the length to patch pocket bag are taken by measuring around the outside

make a folded pattern and adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance edge of the bag shape that will be stitched down to the

on all sides. jacket body—in this case 191⁄2in. Draw the gusset as a long

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the waist rectangular shape, 191⁄2in long by 13⁄16in wide, and add a 3⁄8in

pocket bag pattern1,CMadding a 3⁄8in seam allowance all aroun1dCM seam allowance on all sides.
1 CM 1 CM
the outside edge and a 13⁄16in facing strip to the top opening
⁄13C8M" ⁄13 C8"M
edge, which will be folded into the bag. 133⁄1C6M" 31C3⁄M16"
WAIST POCKET FLAP
6.5 CM CUT 1 PR SELF 6.5 CM

⁄31 8C"M FOLD GRAIN LINE FOLD ⁄13C8M" FOFOLLDD FOFOLLDD
3⁄8"
1 CM 1 CM3⁄8" WAIST GUSSET POCKET BAG 1 CM
CUT 1 PR SELF 3 CM
1 CM
WAIST POCKET BAG
6.5 CM 6.5 CM CUT 1 PR SELF

6.5 CM WCCWUAUATTIISS1T1TPPRPOPSCROEKLESCFTEKFLLEAFTP FLAP 62.51⁄C2"M 3 CM

21⁄2"

1 CM GRGARIAINNLLIINNEE 1 CM FOLD GRAIN LINE FOLD
WAIST GUSSET POCKET BAG
1 CFMOFOLLDD FOFOLLDD 1 CM CUT 1 PR SELF

62.51⁄C2"M 62.51⁄C2"M GRAINLINE

1 CM 3⁄8"
1 CM ⁄13C8M"
3 CM

1 CM 1 CM GRAIN LINE

3⁄8"1 CM 1 CM 49.5 CM

1 CM ⁄13 CM GRAIN LINE 1 CM

8"

3⁄8" 1 CM 191⁄2" 3⁄8" 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM⁄3 8" 1 CM 3 CM 13⁄8"CM 1 CM

3 CM 1 CM 13⁄16"

13⁄16" 49.5 CM WAISWT PAOICSKTETPGUOSCSEKT ET GUSSET GRAINLINE GRAIN LINE 13⁄8"CM3 CM
GRAIN LINE CU49T.5C1CMPURTSE1LFPR SELF
1 C3M⁄8" WAIST POCKET GUSSET 3⁄8"
CUT 1 PR SELF
1 CM3⁄8" 49.5 CM 191⁄2" 1 CM

292 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

49.5 CM 49.5 CM

1 C3M⁄8" 1 CM
12 C43M⁄4" 1 CM
1 C3M⁄8"

1 C3⁄M8 " 13⁄8C" M 1 CM 1C

step 10 FRONT SEWNO-NONPLPALCAKCEKTET WAIST BELT
Front sewn-on placket pattern CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF

• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 43⁄4in 6276.55⁄8"CM GRAIN LINE
wide by 265⁄8in long (the length of the center front) to create GRAINLLININEE
the rectangular-shaped placket.
6276.55⁄8"CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
center, and label it fold. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on
all sides.

FOLFDOLLDINE

623C⁄8"M 1 CM 1C
263C⁄8"M

1 C3M⁄8" 13⁄8C" M 1 CM
1 CM
13⁄8C" M
4132⁄4"CM
13⁄8C" M

step 11 BACK
Developing the back side vents, hem ALLOWANCE, MASTER
and waist belt position PLAN

• Trace off the back body without the raglan shape onto a new 91⁄.165"CM CENTREER BBAACCKK LLIINNEE 91⁄.165"CM
piece of paper and, following the instructions on page 50,
create the full pattern shape. 2.5 CM1" 273C⁄4"M 723⁄4C"M WAISTLLIINNEE 723⁄C4"M 273C⁄4"M 12."5 CM
2.5 CM1" 23⁄4C" M 2 C3M⁄4" 12."5 CM
• From the hemline corners square down 13⁄16in and square
across to create the facing. 259C7⁄8M" BACK VEENNTT 9257⁄8"CMBBAACCKK VVEENNTT

• Repeat this above the hemline by squaring up 13⁄16in, and HEHMEAMLLFOAWCIANNGCSETSITTCITHCLHINLEINE 313C⁄16M"
indicate the hem stitch line with a dotted line. HEMLINE 14 5C⁄8M"

• Extend the hem allowance line and the hemline out from the 313C⁄16M"
side seam at both ends by 15⁄8in; this is the vent width. 14 5C⁄8M"

• From each end of the extended hemline square up 97⁄8in and
square back to the side seam; this is the vent length.

• On the top of the vent length measure 3⁄4in up the side seam
and from this point draw an angled line back down to the
vent corner.

• To develop the waist belt position square up 1in and down 1in
each side of the waistline to establish the belt width. From
these points create a rectangle by connecting the points
across the back.

• To position the belt loops, from the side seam on each side
measure 23⁄4in along the waistline and draw two rectangles
9⁄16in wide by 23⁄4in long centered over the waistline.

waxed jacket 293

step 12 BBAACCKKBOBDOYDPYANPEALNEL CCEENNTETRRBEABCKA LCIKNELINE
Back body PANEL pattern CCUUTT11SESLEFLF GGRRAIAINLNINLIENE

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back WWAAISISTTLLIINNEE
body pattern without the side vents, which will be sewn on
as part of the back envelope pocket bag, annotating all the
positions for belt and loops.

• Add the position of the back envelope pocket by measuring
97⁄8in up from the hemline on both sides and squaring across
to create a rectangle 22in wide by 97⁄8in high.

28 CM11" 281C1"M

9275⁄8" CM BABCACKKEENNVVEELLOOPEPEPOPCOKECTKBEATGBAG

HHEEMM FAALLCOIWNAGNCSETSITTCITHCHLLININEE
HHE. AMLLFOAWCAINNCGE

13⁄8C"M

1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C "M 1 CM
2 CM
step 13 1 CM 1 CM 31⁄8"CM 1 CM
BACK Side vent pattern
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
2 CM 2 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the side vent GRAIN LINE 1 CM 1 CM GRAIN LINE
pattern and add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides to create
the final pattern. GRAINLLIINNEE

step 14 FOLD ZIPPER OPENING
Developing the waist belt pattern ZIPPER OPENING

• To create the waist belt trace off from Step 4 the front ends BACK SIDE VENT
of the belt and from Step 11 the middle section, constructing CUT 1 PR SELF
a rectangle 2in wide by 311⁄2in long. Add a 3⁄8in seam
allowance on all sides to create the final pattern. UNDER ENVELOPE FACING1 CM 1 CM TOP ENV3⁄E8L"OPE1 CMFACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
3⁄8"1 CM 3⁄8 " 3⁄8" CUT 1 PR SELF
3⁄8"
1 CM3⁄8" CENTRE BACK LINE 1 CM 13 ⁄8 "CM
GRAIN LINE 1 CM 3 CM
EL 1 CM 1 CM

1 CM3 ⁄8" 3⁄8 "
1 CM
1 CM
WWAAISITSBETLTBELT 1 CM
CCUUTT1 P1R SPELRF SELF 1 CM NGOTCRHAIN LGIRNAINELINE 3 CM
1 CM
1 CM NOTCH

1 3⁄8"CM BACK ENVELOPE POCKET BAG 13⁄8" CM
CUT 1 PR POCKETING 1 CM
WAISTLINE 1 CM 1 CM
294 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear 2 C1MC 3⁄8"M
RAIN LINE
28 CM 1 CM

GRAIN LINE 1

CENTRE BACK LINE 1 CM1 3⁄8"
GRAIN LINE 1 CM 13C⁄8M"
BACK BODY PANEL 3⁄8"
CUT 1 SELF 1 3C⁄8M"

NNOOTCTHCH NONTOCTHCH

step 15

Back envWeAISlTLoINEpe pocket bag BCUABPTCOAK1CCEPNRKKVPEEEOTLNCOKBVPEEAETPIGLNOOGCPKEET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
pattern GRAIN LINE

28 CM 28 CM

•25 CFM ollowBAiCnK EgNVtELhOPeE PiOnCKsETtBrAuG ctions on page 1 CM 1 CM GRAINLINE

50, trace off the final back envelope 1 CM
pockeHtEMbFAaCgINGfSrTIToCHmLINEStep 12. Add a1 C3⁄M8in
seam allowance on all sides. NOTCH 13C⁄8M" NNOOTCTHCH NOTCH NONTOCTCHH 13C⁄8M"
3⁄8" 3⁄8"
HEM FACING

BACK ENVELOPE POCKET BAG 1 CM
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
25 CM
1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM ENVELOPE POCKET
2 CM MASTER PLAN
1 CM

1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 10 CM
2 CM 2 CM
FOLD FOLD

GRAIN LINEstep 16 1 CM 1 CM GRAIN LINE 3 CM 3 CM

Developing the top and under envelope pocket 3 CM 1 CM 13⁄16" 32⁄4"CM

20 CM 2 CM

facing with zipper opening

FOLD 1 CM ZIPPER OPENING
ZIPPER OPENING
Envelope pocket 1 CM GRAIN LINE FOLD
1 CM
The envelope, or poacher’s, pocket inBACK SIDE VENT CENTRE BACK LINE CENTRE BACK LINE
this design has identical zipped openingsCUT 1 PR SELF GRAIN LINE 727⁄0G8"RCAIMN LINE
on both the left- and right-hand sides so
it can be used from either side of theUNDER ENVELOPE FACING TOP ENVELOPE FACING BACK BSEOLDFYCBPUAACTNK1EBSLEOLDFY PANEL
jacket.1 CMThe po1 CcMket openings have a foldedCUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1
facing 3wCMith th3 CeM zipper attached to the
1 CM under or1 CM linin1 CgM side of the opening. 1 CM 927⁄58"CM GGRARINAILINNELINE

WAISTLINE WAISTLINE

1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 28 CMENVELOPE POCKET 1 3⁄C8"M 28 CM
2 CM MASTER PLAN
1 CM
FOLD
28 CM 28 CM

• The facing for the pocket’s opening is constructed as a 25 CM 25 BACK ENVELBOAPCEKPEONCVKEELTOPBEAGPOCKET BAG
CM

folding rectangle, 4in wide by 97⁄8in long. Divide in half 133⁄1C6"M

lengthways, adding a fold line down the middle. NOTCH NOTCH HEM FACINGHSETMITFCAHCILNINGESTITCH LINE
4" HEM FACINGHEM FACING
• To divide again for the insertion of a 77⁄8in closed-end zipper, 10 CM

measure out 13⁄16in from each end of the fold line and square 1 CM

1 CM
across. Measure in 13⁄16in along this line from the bottom and
1 CM 1 CM
mark and 3⁄4in from the top and mark. This is the opening for

the zipper. 31⁄8C"M 13⁄8C"M 1 CM
2 CM
• Create a stepped opening by drawing a rectangle 77⁄8in long 1 CM 1 CM
13⁄18C"CMM
32⁄4"CM
13⁄8C"M

by 3⁄8in wide, centered along the opening. 13⁄C8"M 1 CM 13⁄8C"M 1 CM 1 CM 1 3C⁄8M"
23⁄4C"M 2 CM 2 CM 23C⁄4M"
GRAINLINE 13⁄8C"M 1 CM 1 CM 1 3C⁄8M" GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE TOP ENVELOPE GRAINLINGERAIN LINE
FACING
FFOOLLDD
ZIPPER OZIPEPNPIENGR OPENING CUT 1 PR SELF

UNDER ENVELOPE 1 CM FOLD GRAIN LINE ZIPPER OPENING ZIPPER OPENING ZIPPER OPENING
FACING 2 CM ZIPPER OPENING
1 CM
CUT 1 PR SELF

NG

ZIPPER OPENING

step 17 28 CM UNDER ENVELOPE FACING CM 2 CM 1 CM TOP ENVELOPE FACING
Top and under envelope pocket facing patterns CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
BACK ENVELOPE POCKET BAG 1 TOP ENVELOPE FACING
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the two parts FACING CUT 1 PR SELF
of the back envelope facing patterns, and add a 3⁄8in seam
allowance on all sides on both patterns. WAISTLINE HEM FACING STITCH LINE HEM FACING UN1DECRMENVELOPECUT 1 PR SELF 13⁄8C"M 1 CM 1 CM 1 3C⁄8M"
CENTRE BACK LINE 2 CM 313C⁄1M6" 1 CM 13 3C⁄1M6"
GRAIN LINE 1 3⁄C8"M 13⁄8C"M
3 CM 1 C3⁄M8"
1 CM 1 CM 3 CM

BACK BODY PANEL 13C⁄8M" 1 CM 1 CM FOLD
CUT 1 SELF 1 CM ZIPPER OPENING

1 3⁄C8"M 1 CM
2 CM
1 CM
28 CM GRAIN LINE 1 13C⁄8CM"M
2 3⁄C4M"
1 3C⁄8M"

NG

25 CM waxed jacket 295

step 18 step 19
Sleeve master plan Developing the sleeve master plan

Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve • Draw round the basic sleeve sloper, opening it up along the
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the center line by 3⁄8in.
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper
slightly longer than the length of the shirt you want to develop • From the shoulder tip measure down 3⁄8in, the amount by
and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks, labels, and which you extended the shoulder on the body panel.
instructions, following the directions on page 48.
• From the biceps level square down 9⁄16in, half of the amount
SLETCPOEORVPEOIONCWFTANP by which you dropped the armhole; redraw the new biceps1 CM
level position, extending it by 1in on each side.
BNBPPAOAIOCTTKCCICNHKHT FRONT
PFIRTOCNHT • Using the basic sleeve sloper as a template, redraw the new
PNOOITNCTH sleeve cap indicating the lowered notches.

• To shape the sleeve hemline, measure 3⁄8in up each
underarm seam and 9⁄16in in on each side and mark.

• From these points draw in the new underarm seams,
connecting them back up to the1 CeMxtended biceps level.

• From the new sleeve hemline square down 13⁄16in to create
the facing shape, pitching out at each side to reflect the
sleeve seams when folded.

SULNEDEEVERACRAPM UBINCDEPESRLAERVMELLINE SULNEDEEVERACRAPM OLD UNDERARMLINE
APTOBINICTEPS CROWN APTOBINICTEPS 1.5 CM NEW UNDERARMLINE 1.5 CM
LEVEL POINT LEVEL
BUANCDKEURNADRERMABRAMCSKEASEMAM
BAACCKKLILNIENE FURNODNETRUANRDEMRFARROMNSTEASMEAM 2.5 CM 3⁄18"CM 2.5 CM
CCEENNTTERRELILNIENE
FOORREEAARRMMLINLIENEBACK FRONT 13⁄C8"M
PITCH PITCH
POINT POINT BACK GRAIN LINE
UNDERARM LINE NOTCH

EELLBBOOWWLELIVNEEL FRONT
NOTCH

UNDERARM UNDERARM 19⁄1.56" CM OLDDEBULICNBEDOPEWSRLALERINVMEELLINE
POINT POINT NEWW BUICNEDPESRLAERVMELINE 1.59⁄C16M"

UNDERARM BACK SEAM UNDERARM FRONT SEAM 2.5 C1"M 2.5 C1"M
BACK LINE
CENTRE LINE GRAAIINNLILINNEE
FOREARM LINE
ELBOW LINE
1.5 CM ELLBBOOWWLLEINVEEL 1.5 CM
HEMLINE
32 CM 1 C3MCM NEW SLEEVE HEMLINE 1 CM
FACING 3 CM
SLEEVE HEM

32 CM 9⁄1.165" CM
SLEEVE HEM 9⁄1.165" CM
1 C331M⁄38C⁄"16M" NEWW SSLLEEEEVVEEHHEEMMLILNINEE 31⁄8"CM
FACCIINNGG 313⁄C16"M

296 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

23⁄4"7 CM 23⁄4"7 CM

step 20 31⁄2" 9 CM ELBOW PATCH 9 CM31⁄2"
Developing the elbow patch CUT 1 PR SELF 31⁄2"
pattern
ELBOW PATCH GRAIGRNAILNILINNEE
• Construct a rectangle 7in long by CUT 1 PR SELF
51⁄2in wide. Divide the shape into four
quarters, each 31⁄2in by 23⁄4in. Using 31⁄2"
a French curve create an oval-shaped
elbow patch. 9 CM 9 CM

23⁄4"7 CM 23⁄4"7 CM

step 21
Developing the raglan panel sleeve

• Before you can separate the sleeve for the raglan you need • Trace off the front raglan shape from Step 3. Add to the
sleeve cap by placing the shoulder tips together at the new
to establish the elbow patch position. Trace off the sleeve shoulder tip and aligning the tips of the raglan to the sleeve
cap lines.
pattern from Step 19. From the center line along the elbow
• It is important that the raglan sleeve panels have a fluid line.
level measure 43⁄8in out into the back sleeve and mark. Align To do this, shape the shoulder tip and the points where the
raglan shapes join the sleeve cap with shallow curves.
one side of the elbow patch pattern to this point and, using

the pattern as a template, draw in the patch position.

• Separate the sleeve into two halves, naming them front

and back.

• Trace off the back raglan shape from Step 3. Add to the

sleeve cap by placing the shoulder tips together at the new

shoulder tip and aligning the tips of the raglan to the sleeve

cap lines. BACK
SHOULDER
BBAACCKK FRONT
SSHHOOUULDLDERER SHOULDER

UNDER ARMLINE UNDER ARMLINE BACK
SHOULDER
E CENTRE LINE ALIGNMENT ALUIGNNDMEENRTARMLINE UBINCEDPESRLEAVREML LINE FRONT
R CENTRE LINESLNEOETCVHE BBAACCKKSLSELEEVEEVE SHOULDE
CEENNTTERRELILINNEEMASTERNOTCH MMAASSTTEERRPLPALNAN UBINCEDPESRLEAVREML LINE
11 CM CENTRAL LINEPLAN UNDER ARMLINE FFRROONNTTSLSELEEVEEVE UNDER AR
CENTRAL LINEBICEPS LEVELUNDER ARMLINMBEAACSKTESRLEPELAVENBACK SLEEVEMMAASSTTEERRPLPALNANFRONT S
CEENNTTRARLALLINLIENE MASTER PLAN MASTER
ELBOW LINE SSLLEEEEVVEE ELBOW LINE EELLBBOOWWLELVINELE EELLBBOOWWLELVINELE
MMAASSTTEERR ELBOW
PPLLAANN ELBOW LINE ELBOW LINE

11 CM

1413⁄C8" M EELLBBOOWWLLEIVNEEL

HEM FACING HHE.MALFLWANCCINEG
HEM FACING
HEM FACING HEM FACING HEH.MALFLAWCNICNEG
HH. EAMLLOFAWCAINNCGE
HEM FAC

waxed jacket 297

BACK RAGLAN SLEEVE
CUT 1 PR SELF
BACK RAGLAN SLEEVE
CUT 1 PR SELF
FRONFTRROANGTLRAANGSLLAENEVE
CUT 1 PR SELF
FRONT RAGLAN
CUT 1 PR SELF

step 22
Raglan panel sleeve patterns

• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front and
back raglan panels as separate patterns.
GRAIN LINE
GRAINLLIINNEE

GRAINLLIINNEE
GRAIN LINE

step 23
Developing the shaped convertible collar with stand

• On a new piece of paper draw a 95⁄8in horizontal line • From (E) square out 9⁄16in and draw an angled line down
and mark the left end (A) and the right end (B). This is to (F). Measure a further 3⁄8in up to create the collar point.
the neckline. From the collar point draw a curved line back toward (D).

• From (A) square up 15⁄8in and mark (G), and a further 31⁄8in • From (G) square across to the angled front edge, and from
and mark (D). This is the center back neck. (C) square up to this horizontal line. Measure down 3⁄16in from
where the line from (G) intersects the angled front edge and
• Finish drawing the rectangle by marking the top right corner mark (H). Connect (H) back to the point above (C) with a
(E) and connecting it down to (B). slight curve.

• To shape the stand, measure up 3⁄8in from (B) and mark (F). • Starting from (A) make three marks along the neckline at a
From (B) square in 25⁄8in and mark (C). Join to (F) with distance of 13⁄4in apart, and square up from each mark to the
an angled line. top line of the rectangle to make three cut lines.

D 31⁄8C" M
8 3C1M⁄8"
E 1.95⁄16C"M

COLLAR
MASTER
PLAN
CENTERRE BACK NECK
G SHOULDERSTAAND 03⁄.156"CM
14 5C⁄8M" NOTCHMASTER H
PLAN
A 143.5⁄4"CM CENTERER FRONT143.5⁄4"CMF

NECKLLIINNEE C 13⁄8C" M
41.53⁄4C" M
143.5⁄4"CM 62.55⁄8"CM B
9254⁄8."5 CM

298 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear

0.9 CM 0.4 CM 0.4 CM

0.

8 CM CENTRE BACK NECK SHOULDER MASTER
NOTCH PLAN

CENTRE FRON CENTRE FRONT

step 24 0.5 CM

SeGparating and shMSaTAApSNTiDEnR g the stand and H
SHOULDER 0.5 CM
NOTCH collar H

PLAN STAND • Cut down the vertical lines on the collar shape, leaving them
attached at the botFtom by a fraction of an inch. Starting from
4 CM • Remove the stand shape from the development by traMPFcLAiASnNTgER
C 1 CM C the center back op1eCnMout each line by 3⁄16in, curving down the
onto NaECsKeLpINaErate piece of paper, the vertical collar6..5FCrMom the ceBnter back remove 3⁄8in width, which is the
including B amount lost by closing the stand up.

4.5 CM cut lin4.e5 sC.M 4.5 CM 6.5 CM • Cut down the vertical lines on the stand shape, leaving them
NECK LINE attached at the bottom by a fraction of an inch. Overlap the
tops by 1⁄8in toward the center back so that it brings up
A• Remo4v.5e2C4M.t5hCeM collar sha4.5pCeMfrom the dev4.e5 lCoMpment by tra4c.5iCnMg the neckline.

onto a separate piece of paper. Trace ac24r.o5 sCMs the cut lines

from the stand.

0.4 CM 0.4 CM

0.39⁄8"CM 0.4 CM 0.34⁄16C" M
03.4⁄16C" M

03.⁄416"CM

RREEMMOOVVEE COLLAR COLLAR
CENTERRE BACK NECK MASTER MASTER
CENTERER BACK NECKPLAN PLAN
CENTRE BACK NECK
0.31⁄8C" M CF
0.3 CM
0.13⁄8"CM 0.13⁄8"CM STAND 0.3 CM
MASTER
PLA0N.3 CM STAND
MASTER
PLAN

NECKLLIINNEE

NECK LINE

step 25 • Trace off the collar pattern and, following the instructions on
Collar stand and collar patterns page 50, create the full pattern shape.

• Trace off the collar stand and, following the instructions on
page 50, create the full pattern shape.

COLLAR GRAINLLIINNEE
CUT 1 PR SELF
SHOULDER
SHOULDER NOTCHES
NOTCHES
GLL
COLLAR STAND
CUT 1 PR SELF

waxed jacket 299