pattern
High-waisted Pants
CENTRE FRONT RISE HIP LINE HIIPPLLEINVEEL CENCCTRERONETTTCRBHEACTCUBKRAVRCEIKSERISE
CCREONTTCRHECFURROVNET RISE HIPP LLEINVEL HIP LINE
This pattern includes development SEAT LINE SEEAATTLLEIVNEEL
of the following features: SEAATTLLEINVEEL SEAT LINE
Front pleats
Straight legs INSIDE LEG SEAM FRONT BBACCKK
Fly, fly facing, and fly extension INSSIEDAEMLEG SEAM MASTEFRRONNTT MMPAPALLMSSAABTTANNEEASRRCTKER
Front right-angled welted pockets
Back welted pockets GRAIN LINE PLAMMNAASSTTEERR PLAN
Notched waistband GRRAAIINNLILINENE PPLLAANN SIDE SEAM SOIUDTESESAEMAM
SOIUDTESESAEMAM SIDE SEAM
step 1 KNEE LINE
Developing the master plan KKNNEEEELELIVNEEL GRRAAIINNLILNIENE
GRAIN LINE
Start by selecting the basic men’s pant sloper, or by drafting INISINSDSIEEDALEMELGESGEASEMAM
the basic pant sloper according to the instructions on page 45. KNNEEEELLEIVNEEL
Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the pant KNEE LINE
you want to develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and
all marks, labels, and instructions following the directions on HEMLHINEEEMMLLIINNEE HEEMMHLLIENINMEELINE
page 49.
150 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 2 CEENNTTERRE 133⁄16C"M OLLDD PPLLEEAATTLILINENE 1 C3⁄8"M OLLDD PPLLEEAATTLILINENE WAISTLINE
Developing the front right-angled welted FRROONNTT 833.⁄58" CM
pocket and fly shape and moving the pleats WPOAIISNTT 41C5⁄8M" 145⁄8C"M
17 6C3⁄M4" 3⁄24"CM
• Move the pleat lines 3⁄8in toward the center front along the 1 C3⁄8"M
waistline. Redraw and notch.
CCREONTTCRHECFURROVNET RISE NEWW PPLLEEAATTLILINENE 1143C⁄8"M
• Measure 15⁄8in down from the waistline and 3⁄4in in from FLYY SSHHAAPPEE NEWW PPLLEEAATTLILINENE
the outseam and mark. From this point square down 43⁄8in, 313⁄C16"M 1 C3⁄8M"
and from the same point continue across 33⁄8in toward HIPP LLEINVEL
the center front, creating a right-angled shape. Measure in
3⁄8in from the vertical line and draw a parallel right-angled
shape to make the width of the welt opening. Square off
at both ends.
• To create the fly shape, measure in 13⁄16in from the center
front waist point and square down 63⁄4in. At the bottom of
this line measure 13⁄16in back up and make a mark; draw a
curved line from this point back down to the crotch curve.
step 3 step 4 step 5
Front leg pattern Developing the back welted Back leg pattern
pocket position
• Following the instructions on page 50, • Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the front pant leg pattern. • From the bottom of the back waist dart trace off the back pant leg pattern.
square out 23⁄4in to each side. This will
become the pocket opening.
7 23C⁄4"M BACK LEGBBAACCKKLLEEGG
7 23C⁄4"M CUT 1 PR SCEUULTTF11PPRRSESLEFLF
7 CM
CCREONTTCRH BC7AURCCVKMERISE
CENTR BACK RISE
HHIIPPLLEIVNEEL HIP LINE
FRROONNTTLLEEGG SSEEAATTLELVINEEL SEAT LINE
CUUTT11PPRRSSEELFLF
BBAACCKK BACK
MPPMLALAAASSNTNTEERR MASTER
PLAN GRAIN LINE
GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE INNSSIEADEM LEG SEAM GRAIN LINE
GRRAAIINNLILINENE INSIDE LEG SEAM GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE
SOIUDTESESAEMAM KKNNEEEELLEIVNEELKNEE LINESIDE SEAM
HHEEMMLLININEE HEMLINE
High-waisted Pants 151
step 6 step 7
Developing the front pocket bag Front pocket bag pattern
• Measure 23⁄4in from the outseam along the waistline andPLEAT LINE • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
mark; square down 107⁄8in and mark. PLEAT LINE pocket bag pattern.
• From the bottom of this line square out 25⁄8in toward the FROONNTTPPOOCCKKEETTBBAAGG
center front and mark, and from the outseam measure in CUTT 22PPRRPPOOCCKKEETITNIGNG
53⁄8in along the waistline and mark. Draw a line between
these two points. This is the side pocket seam. From the
bottom of the first line square out 25⁄8in toward the outseam;
from here square up 33⁄8in and then squa13r.e5 CoMut 3⁄4in to meet
the outseam. This point is 71 5C⁄M8in from the waist7liCnMe, measured
along the outseam.
• To create a slight angle to the side of the pocket bag, at the
top of the pocket measure 3⁄8in back along the waistline
toward the outseam and redraw the side pocket seam.
• Round off all the corners.
19.5 CM
27.5 CM 27.5 CM5133⁄8."5 CM GRRAAIINNLILINENE
273C⁄4"M
CENTRE FRONT RISE WAISTLINE 13C⁄8"M
PLEAT LINE PLEAT LINE 2 CM
8.5 CM FRONT POCKET BAG
CUT 2 PR POCKETING
7159⁄8."5 CM
12077.⁄85"CM 6.75 CM GRAIN LINE
12077.⁄85"CM
6.75 CM
CCREONTTCRHECFURROVNET RISE 23C⁄4"M
83.35⁄8"CM
OUTSEAM
265.⁄78"5 CM 265.⁄78"5 CM
152 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 8
Developing the welt shape of the front right-angled pocket
• The shape of the welt is developed on a fold so that a seam • At the top of the line square out 33⁄8in on each side (the
is not needed on all sides and will resemble a T shape. width of the pocket opening).
• Draw a 43⁄8in vertical line (the length of the pocket) down • From the end of each line square down 9⁄16in and mark;
the center of a piece of paper. This is the fold line. square in from these points, ending 9⁄16in from the fold,
and mark. Square down and complete the end of the welt.
• From the bottom of the line square out 9⁄16in on each side.
This is the width of the welt. • Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides of the shape to create
the final pattern.
13⁄C8"M 83.53⁄8C"M 38.35⁄8C"M 31⁄8C"M
13C⁄8M" PPOOCCKEKTEWTEWLTELT 13⁄8C"M
1.94⁄1C6M" CCUUTT1 P1RPSRELSF ELF 91⁄.146"CM
13⁄C8"M 13⁄8C"M
FFRRONOTNPTOCPKOETCKWEELTT SIWDEELT SIDE GGRRAIANI LINNLIENE
4113⁄C8"M
FFOOLLDD
13⁄8C"M 19⁄.146C" M 19.⁄146C" M 31⁄8C"M
13⁄8C"M 13 3C⁄1M6" 31⁄8C"M
31⁄8"CM 1 3⁄C8M"
6173⁄C4"M
step 9 GGRRAIANI LINNLIENE
fly facing pattern 3⁄18"CM
FLY FACING 13C⁄8M"
Zippers CUT 1 SELF R.S.U
When developing the fly length it is High-waisted Pants 153
important to select a zipper that is 3⁄8– FLY FACING
9⁄16in shorter than the fly facing shape. CUT 1 SELF R.S.U
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front fly
facing pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
1 CM3⁄8"415C⁄8M"14 5C⁄8M"3⁄8"
1 CM3⁄8" 3⁄8"
step 10
Developing the fly extension 1 CM
1 CM
Fly extension
The fly extension is attached to the GRAI GNRLIAINNELINE
right side of the center front and sits
behind the left fly facing. The facing 1871C⁄8M" FLY EX FTLEYNEXSITEONNSION 7181⁄C8"M
shape is 3⁄8in longer to cover the bulk CUT 1 SCEULTF1 SELF
of the zipper end.
FFOOLLDD
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a vertical box 71⁄8in long
by 31⁄8in wide to create the rectangular-shaped fly extension. 13⁄8C"M 415C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M" 1 3⁄C8"M
1 3⁄C8"M 1 3⁄C8"M
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
center, and label it fold. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on
all sides.
step 11 • From the bottom of the dart square out 23⁄4in on each side
Developing the back welted pocket and bag and mark; from these points square down 9⁄16in and mark.
Connect these points to create a rectangular shape. This is
• The welt opening is developed at the tip of the waist dart. the welt opening, which sits 9⁄16in from each outside seam of
The pocket bag is then drawn over the back leg pattern and the pocket bag.
traced off to make individual patterns.
• To shape the pocket bag measure 3⁄8in in along the waistline
• From the center of the dart at the waistline draw a 91⁄2in on each side and mark. Connect these points with a shallow
perpendicular line down through the dart tip and make a curve back to the outside seams of the bag. From each
mark; from this point square out 33⁄8in on each side and bottom corner of the bag measure up 13⁄8in and in 13⁄8in
mark. From these points square back up to the waistline to and join these points with a curved line.
create a rectangle. This is the basic shape of the pocket bag.
31⁄8"CM
31⁄8" CM
723⁄C4"M 723⁄C4"M 19⁄.156" CM
1.5 C9⁄M16" 1.5 9⁄C16M"
291⁄42"CM
1.5 9⁄C16M"
3.513⁄8C"M 3.513C⁄8"M 3.513⁄8C"M
83.35⁄8"CM GRRAAIINNLILINENE
CERNOTTCRHE CBUARCVKERISE
3.513C⁄8"M83.53⁄8C" M
BAACCKKWWEELLTTEDPOPOCCKKEETT
MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN
154 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
135"CM
step 12 UNDER POCKET
UNDER pocket bag pattern (back welted pocket) BABCAKGPOCKET BAG BOTTOM
CUCTU2TP2RPPROPCOKCEKTEINTGING
Pocket construction
This pocket design has a self-facing SSTTIITTCCHHLLININEE SSTITTICTCHHLILNINEE
strip sewn to the back of the bag so that FFAACCIINNGG SSTTIITTCCHH LLIINNEE
when the pocket is open the pocketing GGRRAIAINNLLIINNEE
material is not seen.
• When tracing this pattern you need to remove the dart.
Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top
pocket bag pattern by placing the center grainline on one
side of the dart leg and drawing around one side of the top of
the pattern before moving the grainline to the other dart leg
and drawing around the other side.
• Reposition the grainline back to the center of the dart
and continue to draw the remainder of the pocket bag
and welt shape.
step 13 BACBAKCKWWAAISTISLINTE LINE
Top SECTION of under pocket
bag pattern GRAINLINE TOPBASCKEPCOCTKEITOBNAG
(back welted pocket) GRAIN LINE OF UNDERINNER TOP
• Following the instructions on page 50, CUT 2 POCKETING
trace this pattern from the waistline to
the top stitch line of the welt opening, POCKET BAG
adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the
lower edge. CUT 2
POCKETING
STITCH LINE STITCH LINESTITCH LINE
STITCH LINE
⁄ "318CM WELTWPELOT PCOCKKEET OTPEONINPGENING ⁄ "13CM8
1 C3⁄M8" WELWTEPLTOPCOKCEKETTOOPPEENNINIGNG 13⁄C8"M
STITCSHTITLCIHNLEINE STITCHSLTIINTCEH LINE
step 14 GRAINLINEGRAIN LINE BOTTOM SECTION
Bottom SECTION of under pocket bag pattern OF UNDER
(back welted pocket) BBPAAOGCCKINKPNOEECTRKBEBOTATTGOM
CCUUTT2 2POPCOKECTKINEGTING
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace this pattern from
the lower stitch line of the welt opening, adding a 3⁄8in seam
allowance to the top edge.
High-waisted Pants 155
step 15 1541⁄C2"M
Developing the back POCKET self-facing strip
1 C3M⁄8" 31⁄8C"M
• Trace the welt opening from the back pant leg, adding 9⁄16in 91⁄.156"CM
to each end. Measure down 3⁄4in at each end of the lower 1.5 9C⁄1M6" WELWTEPLTOPCOKCKEETT OOPPEENNINIGNG
edge of this rectangular shape to create a larger rectangle
measuring 63⁄4in x 13⁄8in. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the STITSCTIHTCLHILNINEE STITSCTHITCLHINLIENE
top and bottom edges to create the final pattern. 9⁄16"
1.5 CM GRGRAIAINNLLIINNEE 1.5 CM
9⁄16"
2 C3⁄M4" BBAACCKKPOPCOKCETKET 23⁄4C"M
SCFEUALTCFI2N-SGFEALFCING
CUT 2 SELF
1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8C"M
step 16 91⁄.156"CM 5141⁄C2"M 91⁄.156"CM
Developing the back POCKET welt strip 1 C3⁄M8" 31⁄8C"M
BBAACCKKPOPCOKECTKWEETLTWELT FFOOLLDD 19⁄.156"CM
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 51⁄2in 1.5 9C⁄1M6"
long by 11⁄8in wide to create the rectangular welt strip. Divide CCUUTT2 S2ESLFELF GGRRAAININLINLEINE 19⁄.156"CM
the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the center, and 1.5 9C⁄1M6" 13⁄8C"M
label it fold. 1 C3⁄M8" 91⁄.156"CM
19⁄.156"CM
• Add a 9⁄16in seam allowance to each of the shorter sides and
a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the longer sides.
step 17
Developing the left side of the waistband
• Draw a horizontal rectangle 163⁄8in long (half the length of Notched waistband
the full waist measurement) by 13⁄8in wide (the depth of the
waistband). Label the left-hand side center front and the This waistband design has a notched
right-hand side center back. center back that is reminiscent of
traditional tailoring, and buttons for
• Add alignment notches for the front pleat by measuring the attachment of suspenders.
31⁄8in in from the center front. Continue measuring 41⁄16in
toward the outseam, and a further 4in along mark the back
pleat alignment notch.
• Develop the notch shape by measuring 1in up the center back
and then a further 13⁄16in and mark. Square in 3⁄8in and mark.
Connect these two points with an angled line and draw a
curved line from the top back to the outseam notch.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the
final pattern.
BUTTON BUTTON 3⁄8"1 CM
POSITION POSITION
2872⁄8".5 CM
3⁄8" 3⁄8"
3⁄8" 13⁄16"
CCFF
13⁄8" LLEEFTFWTAIWSTABAINSDTBAND 1"
PLEAT ALIGNMENT CCUUT T1 P1R SPERLF SELF CCUUT T1 F1USFEUSE 3⁄8"
NOTCH GGRRAIANLIINNELINE CCBB
3⁄8" OUTSEAM104.13⁄16"CM104."3 CM 15"3 CM 3⁄8"
31⁄8" BACK DART
NOTCH
156 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 18
Developing the right side of the waistband
• Repeat the steps above, but work with the center front3⁄8"1 CM • Add the 15⁄8in fly extension to the center front then add a
on the right and the center back on the left, or trace the 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the final pattern.
left-hand side and mirror.
BUTTON BBUUTTTOTNON
POPBOUSTSTIITOTIONION N PPOOSSITIITONION
3⁄8"1 CM
228.75⁄8" CM
3 CM13⁄16" 1 C 3⁄8M" RIGRIGHHTT WWAAISTISBATNBD AND GGRRAAINILNINELINE CCFF 13⁄8" CM
CB CUCTUT11 PPRRSESLFELCFUTC1UFUTSE1 FUSE
2.5 CM1" 313.⁄85" CM
1 CM3⁄8" CB 13⁄8" CM
135C" M 10.34C" M 10.341⁄C16" M PLEAT ALIGNMENT 831C⁄8" M 4 1C5⁄8"M 3⁄8 "
NOTCH
BACK DART FRONT
NOTCH EXTENSION
OUTSEAM
High-waisted Pants 157
pattern
Chinos
This pattern includes development CENTRE FRONT RISE HIP LINE HHIPIPLLEINVEL CENCTERRNOETBRCAEHCBKCAURCIRKSVEERISE
of the following features: CERNOTRCEHFCRUORNVTERISE HIHPIPLELVINEEL HIP LINE
Angled center front waist and crotch curve
Angled center back waist SEAT LINE SEAT LEINVEEL
Dropped crotch SEAT LLEINVEEL SEAT LINE
Straight legs
Front fly, fly facing, and button stand and bearer FRONT BACK
Angled side pockets MASTERFFRROONT MASTEBRACK
Back welted pockets
Notched waistband with front tab PLANMASTERR PPLLAAMNNASTER
PPLLAAN PLAN
step 1 INSIDE LEG SEAM SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
Developing the master plan INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM GRAIN LINEKNEE LKINNEEE SIDE SEAM
LKENVEEELLINE
Start by selecting the basic men’s pant sloper, or by drafting GRAINLLIINNEE GRAINLILINNEE
the basic pant sloper according to the instructions on page 45. SIDE SEAM GRAIN LINE
Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the pant SOIUDTESSEEAAMM IN ISINDSIEEDLAEEMLGESGEASMEAM
you want to develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and KNEE
all marks, labels, and instructions following the directions on KLENVEEEKLLNINEEE LINE
page 49.
HEMLINHEEMLINE HEMLHINEEMLINE
158 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 2 PLEAT
Developing the dropped crotch, front fly,
angled center front waist, and front angled 1 C3⁄M8" 415⁄C8"M 15⁄8"
pocket opening 57⁄8"
CENTTREER 133⁄C16"M 3⁄16"
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level FRONNTT
and redraw the bottom of the crotch curve and the inseam WAIST RNOTTRCEH FCRUORNVTERISE
and outseam. PPOOIINNTT 711⁄88"CM
• Taper the hem in 3⁄4in on both seams and redraw the lines 313⁄C16"M HIP LINE
back up to give the pant a slimmer profile. 415⁄C8"M HIP LEVEL
• Remove the 15⁄8in pleat volume by angling back the front CE SSEEAATTLLEIVNEL
crotch curve. To do this, measure in 13⁄16in from the center
front waist point and from this point square up 3⁄8in. Connect 313⁄C16"M DDRROOPPEPDEDSSEEATATLELVINEEL 313C⁄16M" FRONT LEG
this point back down to the dropped crotch and redraw the CUT 1 PR SE
new waistline with a shallow curve back to the outseam.
The remaining 3⁄8in will be taken out at the center back waist. GRAIN LINE FRONT
MMAASSTTER
• To create the fly shape, measure in 15⁄8in from the new center
front waist point and from here measure down 71⁄8in. At the PLAN
bottom of this line measure 13⁄16in back up and make a mark;
draw a curved line from this point back to the center front INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM KNEE LIENVEEL SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
crotch curve.
GRAINLINE
• From the outseam waist point measure 15⁄8in toward the
center front and 57⁄8in down the outseam and connect these
two points to create the angled pocket opening. Extend the
pocket opening line at the waistline by 3⁄16in and redraw it,
blending the line back to the waistline to enlarge the opening.
HEMLINE
2 3C⁄4"M
2 3C⁄4"M
Enlarging the angled pocket opening to PLEAT
accommodate the width of the hand
The pocket opening must be enlarged to 1 CM 4 CM
3 CM
allow for different hand widths orCEtNhTeRE
pockets will be too tight to use aFWnRdAOISNTT NTRE FRONT RISE
18 CM
stretching will occur. POINT
CE 3 CM HIP LINE 3 CM FRONT LEG
3 CM 4 CM CFRUOT N1 TPRLESGELF
CUT 1 PR SELF
SEAT LINE
DROPPED SEAT LINE
FRONT GRAIN LINE
MASTER
PLAN
INSIDE LEG SEAM
GRAIN LINE
SIDE SEAM
KNEE LINE
GRAINLINE
step 3
Front leg pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
pant leg pattern.
HEMLINE
2 CM
2 CM
chinos 159
step 4 step 5
Developing the dropped crotch, angled center Back leg pattern
back waist, and welted pocket position
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back pant
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level leg pattern.
and redraw the bottom of the crotch curve and the inseam
and outseam.
• Taper the hem in 3⁄8in on both seams and redraw the lines
back up to give the pant a slimmer profile.
• From the center back waist point measure in 3⁄8in and from
this point measure up 3⁄8in; redraw the shorter waistline and
the longer back crotch curve.
• From the bottom of the dart square out 23⁄4in to each side.
Create a rectangular box 9⁄16in deep by 51⁄2in long.
CENTER BACK
WAIST POINT
13⁄8C" M 1 CM
13⁄C8"M
7 C23M⁄4" 19.⁄516"CM 1 CM
1.59⁄C16"M 1541⁄2"CM TRECBUARCVKERISE 7 CM 1.5 CM
HIP LIENVEEL 1.5 CM 14 CM TRE BACK RISEBACK LEG
CUT 1 PR SELF
CROCTECNH HIP LINE BACK LEEGG
3 CM CUT 1 PPRR SSEELLFF
SEAT LI31N3⁄EC16"M
313⁄C16"M SEAT LIENVEEL DROPPED SEAT LINE CEN
DROPPPPEEDD SSEEAATTLLIENVEEL BACK
MASTER
BACK 3 CM PLAN GRAIN LINE
MASTER
GRAINNLLIINNEE GRAINNLLIINNEE
PLLAANN
GRAIN LINE
KNEE LLIINNEE
SI ID IENNSSSEEIAADMEM SEAM KNEE LINE
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM INSIDE SEAM
HEMLLIINNEE
1 C3⁄8M"
1 C3⁄8"M
1 CM
1 CM
HEM LINE
160 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
1423⁄4"CM 41C5⁄8M"
13⁄8"CM
step 6
Developing the front pocket bag 21601⁄4C"M 133⁄C16"M 1557⁄8C" M
FRROONNTT 415⁄C8"M
• First recreate the original shape of the front pant leg POCKET 3⁄24"CM
master plan before the shape for the angled side pocket
was removed and redraw the pocket opening from Step 2 BAG
(without the extension for the enlarged opening). MASTER
• Next create the pocket bag template by measuring 43⁄4in PLLAANN
along the waistline from the top of the pocket opening to
develop the pocket bag width. From this point square down CERNOTRCEH FCRUORNVERISE 7 C2M3⁄4"
101⁄4in; this is the length of the pocket bag.
133⁄16C"M 313C⁄16M"
• From the bottom of the pocket opening on the outseam,
to create a step, measure down 15⁄8in and from this point 133⁄C16"M 313⁄C16"M
measure in 3⁄4in; from here measure down a further 23⁄4in
and connect this point to the pocket length to close the 4123⁄4"CM
bag shape.
03.5⁄1C6"M
• To create a slight angle to the side of the pocket bag, at the
top of the pocket measure 3⁄8in back along the waistline POCKEPOTCOKEPFTEAOCNPINIENGNGIDNFEGAPCTHINLGINEDEPTH LINE
toward the outseam and redraw the pocket length. At the GRGAIRN ALININELINE
bottom of the pocket, round off the corners (13⁄16in by 13⁄16in),
and round off the step.
• Develop the pocket facing depth by measuring in 13⁄16in from
the opening and connecting the waistline with the step using
a parallel curved line.
step 7
Developing the front pocket bag master plan
• Trace off the pocket bag shape with the facing depth line
onto a separate piece of paper, extend the pocket opening
line by 3⁄16in, and redraw it, blending the line back to the top
edge, as in Step 2.
FACING STITCH LINE
TCOUPTP1OPCRKEPTOBCAKEGTING
GRAIN LINE FRONT FPROMOBCAPNAKSLTGETATENR
POCKET
BAG
MASTER
PLAN
POCKET
OPENING
GRAIN
chinos 161 LINE
LINE
0.5 CM step 8POCKET OPENING TOP POCKET BAG FACING STITCH LINE 0.5 CM FACING DEPTH LINE POCKET OPENING
Front pocket bag component patterns CUT 1 PR POCKETING
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top
The pocket bearer GRAIN LINE pocket bag pattern and the top pocket facing from the 0.5 CMGRAIN LINE TOP POCKET BAG
The pocket bearer is cut from the latest development in Step 7, including the extended pocket CUT 1 PR POCKETING
original fabric and is sewn to the under opening. Trace off the pocket bearer and the under pocket
pocket bag, which is then sewn to the bag without the additional shape formed by the extended
waistband and outseam behind the angled pocket opening.
pocket opening. While the pocket opening FACING STITCH LINE POCKET OPENING
was made longer in Step 2, the pocket FACING DEPTH LINE
bearer and under pocket bag will follow FRONT GRAIN LINE GRAIN LINE
the original line of the waistline, POCKET
holding the dimensions of the pocket
parts together. BAG
MASTER
PLAN
FRONT
POCKET
BAG
MASTER
PLAN
0.5 CM
GRAINLINE POPOCCKKEETTOPOENPINEGNLIINNEG TOP GRAINFALBICENAIENREGFR ASSTTICTITCIHCNLHINGLEINTCSEOUTPTIP1TOPCCRKHSEETLLBFINEAERER POCKET OPENING LINE TOP POCKET FACING DEPTH LINE
CUT FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF POCKET OPENING LINE
GRAIN LINE P1OPCRCTKPOEUOTCPTBKAEP1GTOIPNCGGRRKAPINEOLITNCE BKAGERGTAIINNLGINCUEUNTDE1RPRPOPCOGKCEKTRETBIAANGGINLINE GRAIN LINE POCKET OPENING
BBEEAARRERESRTITSCTHILTINCEH LINE GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE
LINE GGRRAAININLINLEINE TOP POCKET BEARER
TOP GRAIN LINE GRAIN LINE CUT 1 PR SELF
N LINE PTCOOUPTCPC1OKPUCREKTSETET1LBBFPEEARARESRREELRF TOP POCKET FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
UNDUENRDERPPOOCCKKEET BTABG AG TOP POCKET FACING
TCOUPTP1OPCRKSEETLFFACING CUTC1UTP1 RPRPPOOCCKEKTEINTG ING CUT 1 PR SELF FRONT
POCKET
BAG
MASTER
PLAN
1 CM 1 CM 31⁄8C"M 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM 31⁄8C"M
1 CM 1 CM 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 3⁄8"
BUTTON POSITBIOBUUNTTSTTOON PNOSITIONS 1 CM
31⁄8C"M 1 CM
3⁄8" POSITIONS
13⁄8C"M
step 9
Developing the front fly button stand and 1 CM
front fly facing 1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the fly shape 1 CM
developed in Step 2 onto a separate piece of paper. Label the POCKET OPENING LINE
straight line, fold; flip the fly shape over along this line and FRONT FLY BUTTON STAND FRONFTROFNTL FYLYBBUUTTTTONO SNTASNTDAND BEARER STITCH LINE GRAIN LINE GGRARINAILINNELINE GRAIN LINE
mirror it to create a single pattern shape. Add a 3⁄8in seam CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF GRAIN LINE
allowance to all sides. GRAIN LINE
• The pattern is folded along the straight line to give double GRAIN LINE GRAIGNRALIINNLIENE FFRRONOTNFLTY FFALCIYNGFACINGTOP POCKET FACING TOP POCKET BEARER
thickness to the buttonholes once positioned. CCUTU1TS1ELFSRE.SL.UF R.S.UCUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
• Trace off the single fly shape from the left side of the button FOLD LINE UNDER POCKET BAGFOFLODLLINDE FRONT FLY FACING
stand to create the fly facing pattern. CUT 1 PR POCKETING CUT 1 SELF R.S.U
162 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS "13⁄8CM 1 CM
"1 C3⁄M8 1 CM
step 10 415⁄C8"M 145⁄C8"M
Developing THE front fly
button bearer FLY CENTTREER FFRROONNTT
MASTTEERR
• Create a master plan to draw the PLAN 313⁄C16"M LEFT
shape of the front fly button bearer by RIGHTT 145⁄C8"M
placing the front leg patterns together
at the center front and tracing around
the outline.
• The button stand and fly facing are
attached to the left pant leg and
the button bearer is attached to the
right pant leg. From the center front
measure 15⁄8in along the waistline of
the left leg for the positioning of the
buttons and a further 15⁄8in for the
overlap and make a mark.
• From the bottom of the fly curve
draw across and up, slightly curving
your line, to meet this point on
the waistline.
13C⁄8M" 1 3C⁄8M"
13C⁄8"M 13⁄8C"M
step 11 BLCLBEUUEUFTTTFTT1OFTTPLNRYOFBSELNEAYLRFER GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE chinos 163
Front fly button bearer pattern BEARER
CUT 1
4 CM 4 CM PR SELF
CENTRE FRONT • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the button
bearer final pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to
R all sides.
3 CM LEFT
4 CM
13C⁄8M"
1 C3⁄M8"
23C⁄4"M 62.51⁄2"CM 31⁄8"CM step 12
Developing the back welted pocket and
6.521⁄2C"M bag shape
31⁄8"CM
• The welt opening is developed at the tip of the waist dart.
723⁄C4"M 723⁄C4"M 91⁄1.65" CM The pocket bag parts are drawn over the back leg pattern
and then traced off to make individual patterns.
1.5 C9⁄1M6" 1.5 9C⁄16M"
• From the center of the dart at the waistline draw a 91⁄2in
291⁄42"CM perpendicular line down through the dart tip and mark; from
1.5 9⁄C16M" this point square out 33⁄8in on each side and mark. From
these points square back up to the waistline to create a
5114⁄2"CM 3.153⁄8C"M rectangle. This is the basic shape of the pocket bag.
GRAINLLIINNEE
3.513⁄8C"M 5 C2"M 3.513C⁄8"M CERNOTTRCEHBCAUCRKVREISE • From the bottom of the dart square out 23⁄4in on each side
and mark; from these points square down 9⁄16in and mark.
Connect these points to create a rectangular shape. This is
the welt opening, which sits 9⁄16in from each outside seam of
the pocket bag.
• To shape the pocket bag measure 3⁄8in in along the waistline
on each side and mark. Connect these points with a shallow
curve back to the outside seams of the bag. From each
bottom corner of the bag measure up 13⁄8in and in 13⁄8in
and join these points with a curved line.
3.513C⁄8"M 5 C2"M
BACKK WWEELLTTEPDOCKET
MPOACSTKEERT PLAN
MASTER PLAN
step 13 135C"M
BACK pocket bag BOTTOM pattern (back
welted pocket) 393C⁄8M" BACK POCKET
BBACAKGOFBBOACTKTPOOCMKET BAG
Pocket construction CCUTU2TPR2PPOCRKETING
This pocket design has a self-facing POCKETING
strip sewn to the back of the bag so that
when the pocket is open the pocketing STSITTICTCHH LLININE E STSTITITCCHHLINLEINE
material is not seen.
GRAIGNRLAIINNLIENE FFAACCININGGSTISTCTHITLICNEH
• When tracing this pattern you need to remove the dart. LINE
Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the pocket
bag pattern by placing the center grainline on one side of 1541⁄C2"M
the dart leg and drawing around one side of the top of the
pattern before moving the grainline to the other dart leg 63⁄4" 20 CM
and drawing around the other side.
• Reposition the grainline back to the center of the dart
and continue to draw the remainder of the pocket bag
and welt shape.
164 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 14 BACK WAISTLINE
Top section of under pocket bag pattern BACK WAISTLINE
(back welted pocket)
BACK POCKET TOP OF FRONT OF BACK POCKET BAG
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace this pattern from BAG INNER TOP CUT 2 POCKETING
the waistline to the top stitch line of the welt opening, adding CUT 2 POCKETING
a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the lower edge. GRAINLGIRAINN LEINE
"⁄318CM STSITTITCCH HLINELINE STISTTITCCHHLINLE INE
WELTED POCKETWELTED POCKET OOPEPNIENGNING "⁄1 C3M8
13C⁄8M" WELTEWDELPTEODCPOKCEKETT OOPPEENINNGING 13⁄C8"M
step 15 STITCSHTITLCIHNLEINE STITCHSTLITICNHELINE
Bottom section of UNDER pocket bag pattern
(back welted pocket) GRAIN LINE OCBBBUOFAATTBTCG2AOCPKMIKONCOPPKNFOOECFETRKCIRNOEKGTNTEBATG
BOTTOM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace this pattern from CUT 2
the lower stitch line of the welt opening, adding a 3⁄8in seam POCKETING
allowance to the top edge.
GRAINLINE
step 16 step 17
Developing the back self-facing strip Developing the back welt strip
• Trace the welt opening from the back pant leg, adding 9⁄16in • On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 51⁄2in
to each end. Measure down 3⁄4in at each end of the lower long by 11⁄8in wide to create the rectangular-shaped back
edge of this rectangular shape to create a larger rectangle welt strip.
measuring 65⁄8in x 13⁄8in. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the
top and bottom edges to create the final pattern. • Divide the box in half lengthways draw a line across the
center, and label it fold.
• Add a 9⁄16in seam allowance to each of the shorter sides and
a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the longer sides.
51⁄2" 14 CM
1 C3M⁄8" 13⁄C8"M "91⁄.156 CM 145C1⁄M2" "19⁄.156 CM
"19.⁄516CM 13C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
"1.59⁄C16M WEWLETLTPPOOCCKKETEOTPEONIPNGENING "1.59⁄C16M "19.⁄156CM
SSTTITICTHCLHINELINE GGRRAAIINNLILINENE STITCSHTILTCINH LEINE "1.59⁄C16M "19.⁄156CM
13C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
2 3C⁄4M" "91⁄1.65 CM BABACCKK PPOOCKCETKEFATCING "1.59⁄1C6M "19.⁄516CM "91⁄.156 CM
FACCUTIN2 GSELF
CUT 2 SELF 23⁄C4"M BBAACCKKPOPCOKECT KWEELTT WELT FOFLOD LLIDNE
CCUUTT22SESLFELF GGRRAIAN ILNINLEINE
1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
chinos 165
step 18
Developing the right side of the waistband
• This style has a notched center back so the waistband will be and mark and label the center front. Measure a further 31⁄8in
drafted in two parts. for the fly extension for the button bearer. Complete
the rectangle.
• Take the waist measurement from the front and back leg • Develop the notch shape by measuring 3⁄4in up the center
patterns to create the waistband. Draw a vertical line 13⁄8in back and in 3⁄8in along the top of the waistband and join
long (the depth of the waistband) and label it center back. these two points.
Square across 87⁄8in for the back pant width and mark the • Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the
outseam. Measure a further 71⁄2in for the front pant width final pattern.
WAIST BAND CIRC - 83 CM / 2 CM EASE OSIUTDSEEASMEAM
FLY EXTENSION
FFBBFLOEOYEARREARBXERUTRBTEETUNORSTNIOTNON
3⁄8"1 CM 3⁄8"1 CM
3⁄8"1 CM
1 CM3⁄8" 1 C3⁄8"M RRIGIGHTHWTAWISTABAISNTD BAND WAWIASISTT LLIINNEE GGRRAIANLININELINE CCFF
CCBB CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF 3. 153⁄8"CM
2 CM3⁄4" 71⁄2"
1 CM3⁄8" 87⁄8"
BA BCAKCKDDAARRTT 831⁄8" CM 1 C 3⁄8"M
NONTOTCCHH
FLYFLNYONTOTCCHH
POPCOCKKEETT
NONTOTCCHH
step 19
Developing the left side of the waistband
• Use the basic waist measurement from the right waistband to • Develop the notch shape by measuring 3⁄4in up the center
create the left waistband rectangle (71⁄2in + 87⁄8in) but then back and in 3⁄8in along the top of the waistband and join
add the measurement for the center front waistband tab, these two points.
which is 15⁄8in in length with an additional 9⁄16in to create the
point. The waistband depth is 13⁄8in. • Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the
final pattern.
FWFRAIORSNTOTBNANTD OSIUTDSEEASMEAM
TAWBAISTBAND
TAB
4 CM15⁄8" 3⁄18"CM
1.75 CM11⁄16" 1.5 9⁄16"CM LELFET WFATISWTBAAINSDTBAND GRAIGNLRINAE IN LINE 3. 153⁄8"CM CCBB
BUTTON CUCTU1 TPR1SEPLRF SELF
POSIBPUOTITSITTOIOONNN WWAAISISTTLLININE E 23⁄4"CM
71⁄2"
CCFF 87⁄8"
FLYFLNYONTOTCCHH
POPCOKCKEETT BAC BKACDKADRARTT
NONTOTCCHH NOTNCOTHCH
166 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
chinos 167
pattern
Basic Sweatpants
This pattern includes development CENTRE FRONT RISE
of the following features: CERNOTRCEH FCRUORNVTERISE
Angled center front waist and crotch curve CENCTRERONETTCRBHEATCCBKUARRCVIEKSERISE
Angled center back waist HIP LINE HHIPIPLLEIVNEEL
Dropped crotch HHIIPPLLEINVE L HIP LINE
Enlarged volume in straight legs
Stitched front fly SEAT LINE SEATT LLEINVEL
Side welted pockets SEAT LEINVEEL SEAT LINE
Back patch pocket
Drawstring ribbed waist GRAIN LINE GRAINLLIINNEEFRONT SIDE SEAM BACK
Center back notch detail MASTERFRONT SOIUDTESSEEAAMM MASTEBRACK
Ribbed cuff at hem
PLANMAASSTTEERR PPLLAAMNNASTER
step 1 PLAN PLAN
Developing the master plan SOIUDTESSEEAAMM IINNSSIEDAEMSEAM
INSIDE SEAM KNEE LKINNEE SIDE SEAM INSIDE SEAM
Start by selecting the basic men’s pant sloper, or by drafting LKENVEEEL LINE
the basic pant sloper according to the instructions on page 45. GRAINLILINNEE
Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the pant GRAIN LINE
you want to develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and KNEE
all marks, labels, and instructions, following the directions on INSIEDAEMSEAM KLNEEVEEKLLNINEEE LINE
page 49.
HEM LINHEEMLLININEE HEMLLIHNINEEEM LINE
168 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
1 C3⁄8M" 145⁄C8"M
133⁄C16"M
CROTCH CURVE 171⁄88"CM
step 2 3 15C⁄8"M 133⁄C16"M HIP LINE
Developing the dropped crotch, front fly, and HIP LEVEL
angled center front waist 133⁄C16"M
SSEEAATTLELIVNEEL
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level DDRROOPPPEEDDSSEEAATTLELIVNEEL 133⁄C16"M
and redraw the bottom of the front crotch curve and the
inseam and outseam. FRONT
MASTER
• Remove the 15⁄8in pleat volume by angling back the front PLAN
crotch curve. To do this, measure in 13⁄16in from the center INSIENASIMDE SEAM
front waist point and from this point square up 3⁄8in. Connect GRAINLLIINNEE SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
this point back down to the dropped crotch and redraw the
new waistline with a shallow curve back to the outseam. KNEE LLEINVEL
The remaining 3⁄8in will be taken out at the center back waist.
• In this style the fly shape is stitched rather than constructed.
To create the fly shape, measure in 15⁄8in from the new center
front waist point and from here measure down 71⁄8in. At
the bottom of this line measure 13⁄16in back up and make
a mark; draw a curved line from this point back to the
crotch curve.
HEMLLIINNEE
step 3 CENTER CROTCH CURVE
Developing the dropped crotch, angled center BACK WAIST
back waist, and welted pocket position POINT
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level 13⁄8"CM
and redraw the bottom of the crotch curve and the inseam 13⁄C8"M
and outseam.
7 C2M3⁄4"
• From the center back waist point measure in 3⁄8in and from 5114⁄2"CM
this point measure up 3⁄8in; redraw the shorter waistline and
the longer back crotch curve. HHIIPP LLEINVEEL
• From the bottom of the dart square out 23⁄4in to each side 313⁄C16"M SEAT LEINVEEL 313⁄C16M"
to create the pocket placement guide line of 51⁄2in, for the DROPPED SEAT LEINVEEL
right leg only. The top of the patch pocket is aligned against
this line. BACK
MASTER
PLAN
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
GRAINLILINNEE
INSIEDAEMSEAM
KNEE LLEINVEEL
HEMLLIINNEE
basic sweatpants 169
step 4 step 5
Adding volume to the front leg Developing the front side welted pocket
Pocket construction • From the new outseam waist point measure down 1in; from
this point measure in 3⁄4in and down 57⁄8in to the hip level.
This pocket design has a self-facing Remove a 3⁄4in by 57⁄8in rectangle, which will become the
strip sewn to the back of the bag so that welted pocket opening.
when the pocket is open the pocketing
material is not seen. 21."5 CM
CENTRE FRONT RISE
2.5 CM CERNOTRCEH FCRUORNVTE RISE 5175⁄8"CM
1.3 CM HIHPIPLELVINEEL
• Cut up the grainline and open by 1in. REMOVE
• From the outseam waist point measure out 1⁄2in; draw inHtIPheLINE SIDE POCKET
WELT SHAPE
new outseam line.
DRDORPOPPEPDEDSESAETATLELVINEEL
DROPPED SEAT LINE FRONT
MASTER
FRONT PLAN
MASTER
PLAN 2.5 CM
CERNOTRCEH FCRUORNVTE RISE 1⁄12."3 CM INSIDE LEG SEAM SIDE SEAM GRAIN LINE
12."5 CM INSIDE LEG SEAM GRAIN LINE
KNEE LINE 15 CM KNEE LINE
GRAIN LINE REMOVE
HHIPIPLELVINEEL CENTRE FRONT RISE steHIpP 6LINE SIDE POCKET
DRDORPOPPEPDESDESAETALTELVIENLE WELT SHAPE
SIDE SEAM
FRONT Front leg pattern
MASTER
PLAN SOIUDTESSEEAAMM DROPPED SEAT LINE FRONT LEG
INSIEDA1E.M3LECGMSEAM CUT 1 PR SELF
GRAINLLIINNEE • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
FpRaOnNtTleg pattern.
MASTER
PLAN
SIDE SEAM GRAIN LINE
CENTRE FRONT RISE KNEE INSIDE LEG SEAM
2.5 CM KLNEEVEELLINE GRAIN LINE
2.5 CM KNEE LINE HEMLINE
CENTRE FRONT RISE HEMLINE REMOVE
HIP LINE SIDE POCKET
DROPPED SEAT LINE 15 CM WELT SHAPE
HIP LINE
FRONT
MASTER DROPPED SEAT LINE FRONT LEG
PLAN FRONT CUT 1 PR SELF
MASTER
KNEE LINE PLAN
INSIDE LEG SEAM SIDE SEAM GRAINLILINNEE
GRAIN LINE INSIDE LEG SEAMHEMLINE HEMLINE
GRAIN LINE
SIDE SEAM
KNEE LINE
FRONT LEG
CUT 1 PR SELF
HEMLINE HEMLINE
170 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 7 REMOVE 1⁄04."7 CM 12."5 CM POCKET
Adding volume to the back leg 3⁄24"CM PLACEMENT
Creating extra volume for the sweatpant silhouette 7 C23M⁄4" CERNOTTRCEHBCAUCRKVERISE
in the back 5114⁄2"CM
To create the sweatpant silhouette
extra volume needs to be added. This is HHIPIPLELIVNEEL
achieved by adding 1in through the middle
of the pattern and by keeping the dart SOIUDTESSEEAAMMDDRROOPPPPEEDDSSEEAATT LLIENVEEL GRAINLLIINNEE
width (3⁄4in) but removing 1⁄4in from the BACK INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM
outseam, giving an extra 11⁄2in ease in MASTER
the waist of the back leg pattern. PLAN
• Cut up the grainline and open by 1in. KNEE
• Remove the dart legs and continue the waistline across, KLENVEEELLINE
keeping the volume in the pattern.
• From the outseam waist point measure in 1⁄4in; draw in the
new outseam line.
HEMLINE
REMOVE 0.7 CM RE2MCOVME 0.7 CM 2 C2.M5 CM CENTER5 CM
2.5 CM BACK WAIST52"CM
PPOLACCKEEMTENPPTOLACCKEEMTENT POINT
CENTRE BACK RISE RO‘8V.EF5’ SMCCHOBMAVPAELRO“3‘8V3.EF5⁄’”8"MSSCCHOHBMAAVPAPELECROTCH CURVE
7 CM st7eCpM8 CENTRE BACK RISE HIP LINE HHIIPP LLEIVNEL
14RCMemo1v4iCnMg the center back
DROPPEDDSREDOARPTOPPLEIPNDEEDSESAETALTINLEVEL GRAINLILINNEE
HIP LINnE oHtIPchLINdE etail BACK BABCAKCK GRAIN LINE
MASTER MAMSATSETRER
• To remove the V shape detail, from PLAN PLPALNAN
DROPPED tSDhEReAOTPcLPeIENnDEteSErAbTaLcINkEwaist point measure
KNEE
33⁄8in down the back crotch curve and KNEE LINELKENVEEELLINE
mark, andBA2CiKn aloBnAgCKthe waistline and
mark. CoPMnLAnASeNTcEtRthMPeLAsASeNTEtwR o points with a
straight line.
KNEE LINEKNEE LINE
step 9
Back leg pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the back pant leg pattern.
SIDE SEAM SIDE SEAM NEW GGRRAAIINNLILINNEE
SIDE SEAM SOIUDTESSEEAAMM INSIDE LEG SEAM
GRAIN LINE NEW GRAIN LINE INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM
GRAIN ILINNSIEDE LEG SEAM
INSIDE LEG SEAM
BACK LEG
CUT 1 PR SELF
BACK LEG
CUT 1 PR SELF
HEMLINE HEMLINE HEMLINE HEMLINE HEMLLIINNEEHEM LINE
basic sweatpants 171
153" CM
step 10 23C⁄4"M 21."5 CM
Developing the front side welted pocket
position and bag
• From the outseam waist point measure 5in along the FFRROONNT STIDSEIDE
MWPWAOEESLCTLTEETKDREEPPDTLOACNKET
waist, and from this point square down to the hip level plus MASTER PLAN 5157⁄8C"M
a further 31⁄8in; from here square back to the outseam.
Measure 2in along this line and make a mark.
• From the bottom of the welt opening shape13mCMeasure down GGRRAAIINNLLIINNEE
13⁄16in along the outseam and connect this point to th2 CeM 22i.n5 CM HHIPIP LLEINVEEL 13 3C⁄1M6"
point at the bottom of the pocket bag with a straight line. 83C1⁄8M"
• To add curves to this line, divide its measurement into four DROPPDREODPPSEEDASTEALTELVINEEL
and mark. From the bottom of the line square down 3⁄16in at 3⁄16"
the first mark and from the top of theFRliOnNTeSIsDEquare up 3⁄16in 0.5 CM 3⁄160".5 CM
points, 15
at the first mark. Draw a curved line joining theseWELTED POCKET CM
MASTERPLAN
25" CM
starting at the bottom and reversing the curve in the middle
of the line. GRAIN LINE
HIP LINE
3 CM
8 CM
0.5 CM 0.5 CM
5 CM
DROPPED SEAT LINE
FRONT POCKET BAG FOLD GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 PR SELF
step 11 step 12
Front pocket bag pattern Developing the front welt strip
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front • On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 57⁄8inGRAIN LINE
pocket bag pattern, and mirror it over to create both sides long by 11⁄2in wide.
of the bag, with the opening on one side only.
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
center, and label it fold.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to each side.
GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE 57⁄8" 1 CM3⁄8" 1 CM
3⁄8" 1 CM 1 CM
3⁄8" FOLD 3⁄8"
FRONT POCKET WELT F
1 CM CUT 1 PR RIBFRONT POCKET BAG 1 CM C
1 CM 1 CM
1 CMCFURT 1O PNRT SPELOFCKET WELT 1 CM
1 CM CUT 1 PR RIB 1 CM
2 CM
FFOOLLDD FRONT POCKET WELT FOLD GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 PR RIB 15 CM
2 CM
FRFROONNTT PPOCOKCETKBEATGBAG 1 CM FOLD FOLD 1 CM
CUCTUT11 PPRRSESLFELF 1 CM 15 CM 1 CM
1 CMGRAINLINE
1 CM
2 CM
GRAIN LINE
2 CM
1 CM
1 CM
3⁄4" 3⁄4"
3⁄8" 3⁄8"
3⁄8"
3⁄8"
172 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 13 273⁄C4"M 273⁄C4"M
Developing the back right patch pocket bag
2 C3⁄M4" BACK
• Use the pocket position line on the back leg pattern as the 1 C3M⁄8" POCKET
starting point for developing the patch pocket bag. From LINE
this line measure 3⁄4in up and 3⁄8in down at each end and
join these points to create a rectangle. This is the folded 5114⁄2"CM CENTERER LINE
facing shape. GRAINLLIINNEE
CROTCECNHTRCEUBRAVCEK RISEHHIPIPLELIVNEEL
• Continue to measure down 51⁄2in on each side and square 145⁄C8"M
across. From each bottom corner of the bag measure up 145⁄C8"M
15⁄8in and in 15⁄8in and join these points with a curved line.
FFAACCIINNGG
FOFOLLDD LLINIENE
step 14
Back right patch pocket bag pattern FACINFAGCINSGTSITTITCCHH LLINIENE FACINFGACISNTG ISTTCITCHH LLIINNEE
7 CM 7 CM
2 CM
• Following the instructi1oCMns on page 50, trace ofPBfAOCCtKKoETcreate the
back right patch pocket pattern and add on theLINsEelf-facing
allowance as shown.
14 CM
CENTRE LINE BBAACCK RKIGRHTIGPAHTTCH POCKET GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE CPUATT1CSHELFPOCKET
CENTRE BACK RISE CUT 1 SELF
HIP LINE
4 CM GRAINLINE
4 CM
basic sweatpants 173
31⁄8CM" 13⁄C8M"
step 15 C8M⁄ " CM"
Developing the center back V notch style detail
3 31⁄
• The center back notch detail is purely a design feature. 1
• Draw a horizontal line 4in in length and mark each end; 8
from the center of the line square down 33⁄8in and mark. 2" 2"5 CMCENTER 5 CM
This is the center back line. CENTREBACKBACK
• Connect these three points to form a triangle. CENTER
• Extend the lines out by 3⁄8in at each end and draw a larger BACKCENTRE BACK INSERT8.5 CM
triangle to give 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
CUT 1 RIB
INSERT
CUT
1 RIB
GRGAINRLIANIENLINE
33⁄8"
C8M⁄ " 318CM⁄ "
3
1
step 16
Developing the ribbed waistband
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 303⁄4in • Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
long (the length of the ribbed waistband calculated according center, and label it fold.
to the standard stretch calculation given below) by 4in wide
(double the depth of the waistband). • Mark cord holes for the drawstring in the bottom left and
bottom right corners.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
3⁄8" 3⁄8" 303⁄4" GRAINLINE
3⁄8" 3⁄8"
3⁄8" FOLD 3⁄8"
2" RIBBED WAISTBAND DRAW 2"
2" CUT 1 RIB CORD
3⁄8" HOLES 2"
3⁄8"
DRAW
CORD
HOLES
Sizing the waistband step 17
Before developing the waistband pattern Developing the ribbed hem cuff
for the ribbed jersey, it is important
to calculate the amount by which you will • On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 85⁄8in
need to reduce the waistband and this long by 61⁄4in wide (double the depth of the hem cuff).
will vary depending on the stretch ratio
of the rib you are using. The stretch • Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the
of ribbed jersey will depend on the center, and label it fold.
amount of elastic or spandex used by
the manufacturer. • Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
A standard calculation for the waistband 85⁄8"3⁄8" 3⁄8" FOLD 3⁄8"
length can be made by measuring the 3⁄8" GRAINLINE 31⁄8"
circumference of the waist from the
front and back pant patterns and then 31⁄8" 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 31⁄8"
by dividing this measurement by four; HEM CUFF 3⁄8"
one-quarter is then subtracted from the CUT 1 RIB
measurement of the waist circumference.
31⁄8"
You may have to reduce the waistband
further than this standard formula, 3⁄8"
depending on the stretch of the jersey 85⁄8"
rib. Use this calculation as a starting
point and check the stretch ratio before
making the final waistband pattern.
174 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
basic sweatpants 175
pattern
Tailored Shorts
This pattern includes development Shortened straight legs
of the following features: Front fly, fly facing, and button stand and bearer
Angled center front waist, crotch curve Angled side pockets
Angled center back waist Back welted pockets with flaps
Dropped crotch Straight waistband with side tab
step 1 The adaptations already made for the chinos style are:
Developing the master plan Angled center front and back waist to remove the pleat volume
Dropped crotch front and back
This shorts style is developed from the master plan of the Front fly development
chinos. Start by selecting the chinos master plan, or develop Alignment of back welted pockets
the master plan from the basic men’s pant sloper by following
the instructions for the chinos on pages 158–60.
4 CM 13⁄8"CM
1 CM
3 CM 1 C3⁄M8" 415⁄C8"M 13⁄8C" M 1 CM
313⁄C16"M
18 CM 1 CM
711⁄88"CM
FRONT 7 C23M⁄4" 19.⁄156" CM BAACCKK
MASTFERRROOPNNLTTAN MAASSTTBEERARCPPKLLAANN
3 CM HIP LINE 1.5 9C⁄16M" 715C14⁄2M"CM 1.5 CM
MAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN 313⁄C16"M HIPP LLEINVEL MASTERPLAN
3 CM 1.5 CM 14 CM
3 1C5⁄8M" HIPP LLEINVEL
3 CM SEAT LINE HIP LINE
31C3⁄16M" DROPPED SEATSLEIAANTTELLEIVNEE3LCM
SEAATTLLEIVNEEL
DROOPPPPEEDDSSEEAATTLELVINEEL 313⁄C16"M
31C3⁄1M6" DRRSOOEPAPPTPEELDDINSSEEEATATLELVINEEL 133⁄C16"M
3 CM
3 CM DROPPED SEAT LINE
INSIDE SEAM SOIUDTESESAEMAM
INSSIEDAEM SEAM SIDE SEAM
GRAIN LINE GRRAAIINNLILINENE
GRRAAIINNLILINENE GRAIN LINE
IN ISIINDSNEESIASDMEEASMEAM
SIDE SEAM
SOIUDTESESAEMAM
KNEE LINE
KNNEEEELELIVNEEL KKNNEE LLEIVNEEL
KNEE LINE
176 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 2 415⁄C8" M 3⁄16"
Developing the front angled side pocket 1575⁄8"CM
opening and front shorts length
CERNOTCRHE CFURROVNET RISE HIPP LLEINVEL
• From the outseam waist point measure 15⁄8in toward the FFRRONT
center front and 57⁄8in down the outseam and connect these MMASSTTEERR
two points for the angled pocket opening. Extend the pocket PPLLAANN
opening line at the waistline by 3⁄16in and redraw it, blending
the line back to waistline to enlarge the opening. DRROOPPPPEEDDSSEEATATLELVINEEL
Enlarging the angled pocket opening to SOIUDTESESAEMAM 31343.⁄84" CM
accommodate the width of the hand
20.581C⁄16M" INSSIIDDEELELEGGSESAEMAM GRRAAIINNLILINENE
The pocket opening must be enlarged to
allow for different hand widths or the
pockets will be too tight to use and
stretching will occur.
• From the bottom of the pocket opening measure 133⁄4in down 0.8 5C⁄16M" NEEWW HHEEMMLLININEE 0.8 5C⁄16M"
the outseam and then square out 5⁄16in. Redraw the outseam KNEEEELLEINVEEL
back from this point.
• From the bottom of the crotch curve measure 81⁄16in down
the inside leg and then square out 5⁄16in. Redraw the inseam
back from this point.
• Draw a line between the two points to form the new hemline.
4 CM
15 CM
CENTRE FRONT RISE HIP LINE FRROONNTTLLEEGG
CUUTT11PPRRSSEELFLF
step 3 FRONT
Front leg pattern MASTER GRRAAIINNLILINENE
PLAN
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
leg pattern. DROPPED SEAT LINE SIDE SEAM
34.8 CM
20.5 CM INSIDE LEG SEAM GRAIN LINE
0.8 CM NEW HEMLINE 0.8 CM
KNEE LINE
tailored shorts 177
124C3⁄4M" 4 1C5⁄M8"
13⁄8C" M
step 4 21061⁄4C"M 313 ⁄C16"M 1575⁄8"CM
Developing the front pocket bag FFRROONT 415⁄C8" M
• First recreate the original shape of the front pant leg PPOOCCKKEETT 3⁄24"CM
master plan before the shape for the angled side pocket BBAAGG
was removed and redraw the pocket opening from Step 2 MMPPAALLSSAATTNNEERR
(without the extension for the enlarged opening).
• Next create the pocket bag template by measuring along the CERNOTCRHE CFURROVNET RISE 7 C2M3⁄4"
waistline a further 43⁄4in from the opening to develop the
pocket bag width. From this point square down 101⁄4in; this is 133⁄16C"M 313⁄C16"M
the length of the pocket bag.
• From the bottom of the pocket opening, to create a step, 313⁄C16"M 313⁄C16"M
measure down 15⁄8in and from this point measure in 3⁄4in;
from here measure down a further 23⁄4in and connect this 1423⁄4"CM
point to the pocket length to close the bag shape.
• To create a slight angle to the side of the pocket bag, at the FACING STITCH LINE POCKPEOTCKOEPFTFAEAOCNCPINEIINNGNGIGDNEGDPETHPLTIHNELINE 30⁄.156"CM
top of the pocket measure 3⁄8in back along the waistline TCOUPTP1OPCRKEPTOBCAKEGTING GGRRAAININLILNIENE FRONT
toward the outseam and redraw the pocket length. At the POCKET
bottom of the pocket, round off the corners (13⁄16in by 13⁄16in), FPROMOBCAPNAKSLTGETATENR
and round off the step. BAG
• Develop the pocket facing depth by measuring in 13⁄16in from GRAIN LINE MASTER
the opening and connecting the waistline with the step using
a parallel curved line. PLAN
step 5 POCKET
Developing the front pocket bag master plan
• Trace off the pocket bag shape with the facing depth line onto
a separate piece of paper, extend the pocket opening line up
3⁄16in, and redraw it, blending the line back to the top edge.
178 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
OPENING
GRAIN
ET TCOUPTP1OPCRKESTELFFACING
GTER
AN
GRAIN LINE
step 6 PPOOCCKKEET TOPOEPNEINNGILNINGELINEPOCKCPECUOUTTCTKB11EEPTPARRBRESSAEEERLRFLERF BBEEAARREERRSTSITTCITHCLIHNELINE
Front pocket bag component patterns GRGARIANINLILNINEE
GRAIN LINE
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top
pocket bag pattern and the top pocket facing from the GRAINLINE
latest development in Step 5, including the extended pocket
opening.0.5TCrMace off the pocket bearer and the under pocket
bag without the additional shape formed by the extended
pocket opening.
FACING DEPTH LINE POCKET OPENING UNDERUNPDOERCKPOECTKBETABGAG
GRAIN LINE CUT 1 PCURTP1OPCR KPOECTKINETGING
0.5 CM
FRONT CUT 1 PCRUPTOC1KPERTINPGOCKETING BEARFEARCSTIINTCGHTOLSINPTEGPIFTORATCCACOHIIKNNPEGLLTIIPNSNBTEOEAITCGCKHELITNEBAG
POCKET
BAG
MASTER
PLAN
GRAGRINAINLLININEE POCKET OPENING
FACING DEPTH LINE
CUT 1 PR SELF GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE UNCDUETR1 PPORCPKOECTKBEATGING The pocket bearer
TOP
CUT The pocket bearer is cut from the
original fabric and is sewn to the
POCKET OPENING LINE GRAINLINE P1FTOPAOCRKCPSEEITLNPFFAOGCCINGKET FRONT waistband and outseam behind the angled
POCKET pocket opening. It is attached to the
pocketing material of the under pocket
BAG bag. While the pocket opening was made
MASTER longer in Step 2, the pocket bearer and
under pocket bag will follow the original
PLAN line of the waistline, holding the
dimensions of the pocket parts together.
GRAIN LINE GRAIN LINE
POCKET BEARER
CUT 1 PR SELF
1 CM 4 CM 1 CM 1 CM31⁄8C"M POCKET OPENING LINE4 CM 14 5C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M" 31⁄8C"M TOP POCKET FACING
1 CM GRAIN LINE 13⁄8C"MCUT 1 PR SELF
15⁄8" 13⁄8C"M FFOOLLDDLINLIENE 1 CM
step 7 1 3⁄C8"M 4 CM 4 CM
Developing the front fly facing 13⁄C8"M 1 CM
31⁄8C"M 1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the fly shape 13⁄8C"M
developed in Step 1 onto a separate piece of paper and flip
it over, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to create the final fly BEARER STITCH LINE FRONT LEFT FLY FACING FRONFTROLNETFLETFTFFLLYY FFAACINCIGNG FOLD LINE
facing pattern. GRAIN LINE CUT 1 SELF R.S.U CUT 1CUSTE1LSFELFR.R.SS..UU
18 CMPOCKET BEARER FFLYLYEXTEEXNTSIEONNSION
step 8 CUT 1 PR SELF 1781C⁄8M" CCUTU 1T S1ELSFELF 1781⁄C8"M
Developing the fly extension
UNDER POCKET BAG FLY EXTENSION
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a vertical box 71⁄8in longCUT 1 PR POCKETING CUT 1 SELF
by 31⁄8in wide to create the rectangular-shaped fly extension.
GRAIN LINE 1 CM GRAGIRNAILNI LNINEE
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
center, and label it fold. GRAINLINE GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides. 1 CM 31⁄8C"M
31⁄8C"M 1 CM
31⁄8C"M 415C⁄8M" 415C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
13⁄8C"M 4 CM 4 CM 1 CM
tailored shorts 179
step 9 19⁄.156" CM
Developing the back shorts length
1.5 C9⁄1M6" 5114⁄2"CM
• From the waistline measure 195⁄8in down the outseam
and then square out 5⁄16in. Redraw the outseam back from CREONTTCRHECBUARCVKERISE BACK
this point. CUT 1
• From the bottom of the crotch curve measure 81⁄8in down the HHIPIPLELVINEEL
inside leg and then square out 5⁄16in. Redraw the inseam back
from this point. 49.819C5⁄M8" SOIUDTESESAEMAM GRRAAIINNLILINENE
• Draw a line between the two points to form the new hemline.
DRROOPPPPEEDDSSEEATATLELVINEEL
BBACKK INNSSIEDAEM LEG SEAM
MMAASSTTEERR
PPLLAANN
2810⁄8."5 CM
0.8 5⁄1C6"M NEEWWHHEEMMLLININEE 0.8 5⁄C16M"
KKNNEEEELELIVNEEL
step 10 CENTRE BACK RISE BAACCKKLLEEGG
Back leg pattern CUUTT11PPRRSSEELFLF
1.5 CM GRRAAIINNLILINENE
• Fleogllopwatitnegr1n.t5h.CeMinstruction14sCoMn page 50, trace off the back
HIP LINE
49.8 CM SIDE SEAM GRAIN LINE
DROPPED SEAT LINE
BACK INSIDE LEG SEAM
MASTER
PLAN
20.5 CM
NEW HEMLINE0.8 CM 0.8 CM
180 Chapter FOUR the pattKeNrEnEs:LPIANNETS
2 3C⁄4"M 62.51⁄2"CM 31⁄4" CM step 11
Developing the back welted pocket
6.521⁄C2"M and bag shape
31⁄8" CM
• The welt opening is developed at the tip of the waist dart.
273⁄4C" M 273⁄4C" M 19⁄.156" CM The pocket bag parts are drawn over the back leg pattern
and then traced off to make individual patterns.
1.5 C9⁄1M6" 1.5 9C⁄16M"
• From the center of the dart at the waistline draw a 91⁄2in line
921⁄42" CM down through the dart tip and mark; from this point square
1.5 9⁄C16M" out 33⁄8in on each side and mark. From these points square
back up to the waistline to create a rectangle, which is the
5114⁄2"CM 3.513⁄8C"M basic shape of the pocket bag.
GGRRAIAINNLILNIENE
3.513⁄8C"M 3.513C⁄8"M CCREONTTCRHECBUARCVKE RISE • From the bottom of the dart square out 23⁄4in on each side
and mark; from these points square down 9⁄16in and mark.
Connect these points to create a rectangular shape. This is
the welt opening, which sits 9⁄16in from each outside seam of
the pocket bag.
• To shape the pocket bag measure 3⁄8in in along the waistline
on each side and mark. Connect these points with a shallow
curve back to the outside seams of the bag. From each
bottom corner of the bag measure up 13⁄8in and in 13⁄8in
and join these points with a curved line.
5 C2"M 5 C2M"
3.513C⁄8"M
BAACCKKWWEELLTTEDPOPOCCKKEETT
MAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN
step 12 135"CM
Under pocket bag pattern (back welted pocket)
93C3M⁄8" UNDER POCKET
Pocket construction BBAACGK POCKET BAG BOTTOM
This pocket design has a self-facing CCUUTT22PRPRPOPCOKECTKINEGTING
strip sewn to the back of the bag so that
when the pocket is open the pocketing STSITTCITHCHLLININEE STSITTITCCHH LLIINNEE
material is not seen.
FAFACCININGG SSTTITITCCH HLINLEINEGGRRAAIINN LLIINNEE
• When tracing this pattern you need to remove the dart. 1451C⁄2M"
Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the pocket
bag pattern by placing the center grainline on one side of 2063C⁄4M"
the dart leg and drawing around one side of the top of the
pattern before moving the grainline to the other dart leg and
drawing around the other side.
• Reposition the grainline back to the center of the dart
and continue to draw the remainder of the pocket bag and
welt shape.
tailored shorts 181
step 13 BACKBACWK WAAISITSLTINELINEGGRARINALIINENLINE
Top SECTION of pocket bag pattern (back
welted pocket) TOP SECTION OF
POCKET BAGBACK POCKET BAG
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace this pattern from
the waistline to the top stitch line of the welt opening, adding INNER TOP
a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the lower edge.
CUTCU2T 2PPOOCKCETIKNGETING
STITSCTITHCH LLINIENE STITCSTHITCHLLIINNE E
"⁄13 C8M WELT WPEOLT PCOCKKEET OTPEONINPG ENING "⁄13C8M
1 3C⁄8M" WELTWEPLOT PCOKCEKETT OOPPENEINNGING 13⁄8C"M
STITCHSTLITICNHELINE STISTTCITCHH LLIINNEE
step 14 GRAIN LINE BBSBCAAUEOGCTCKT2INTTPPNOOIOEOCCRMKKNBEEOTTOITNTFGOM
Bottom SECTION of pocket bag pattern POCKET BAG
(back welted pocket) CUT 2
POCKETING
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace this pattern from
the lower stitch line of the welt opening, adding a 3⁄8in seam
allowance to the top edge.
GRAINLINE
step 15 145C1⁄M2"
Developing the back self-facing strip
1 C3M⁄8" 31⁄8C"M
• Trace the welt opening from the back pant leg, adding 9⁄16in 91⁄.156"CM
to each end. Measure down 3⁄4in at each end of the lower 1.59⁄C16M" WEWLETLTPPOOCCKKETEOTPEONPINEGNING
edge of this rectangular shape to create a larger rectangle
measuring 65⁄8in x 15⁄16in. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the STISTTCITHCHLLIINNEE SSTTIITTCCHHLINLEINE
top and bottom edges to create the final pattern.
2 3C⁄4M" 19⁄.156"CM FBFBCAAUAACCTCIKCN2IGPKSNOEGLCPFKOETCKET GRAIGNLLINE 1.59⁄1C6M"
CUT 2 SELF
32⁄4C"M
1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
182 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 16 19.⁄156C" M 511⁄24"CM 19.⁄156"CM
Developing the back welt strip 1 3C⁄8M" 1 3C⁄8M"
1.59⁄C16M" BBAACCK PKOCPKOETCWKEELTT WELT FOFLODLLIDNE 19.⁄516C"M
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box
51⁄2in long by 11⁄8in wide to create the rectangular-shaped 1.59⁄C16M" CCUUTT2 S2ELSFELF GRGARAININLLIINNEE 19.⁄516C"M
welt strip. 1 3C⁄8M" 13C⁄8"M
91⁄.156"CM 91⁄.156"CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the
center, and label it fold.
• Add a 9⁄16in seam allowance to each of the shorter sides
and a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the longer sides to create the
final pattern.
step 17 SIODUETSSEEAAMM 1 C3⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
Developing the back welted pocket flap GGRRAIAINNLILINENE5 C2M"
• The pocket flap shape is developed over the back welt CCERNTORTECBHACCKURIRSVEE23⁄4C" M
opening. From the top of the welt opening, at the dart point,
square down 2in and mark. From this point square across 273C⁄4"M 723C⁄4"M
23⁄4in to each side and connect these two points with the top
of the welt opening to create a rectangle. HHIIPPLLINEEVEL
• From each bottom corner measure up 3⁄4in and connect
these points back down to the center of the bottom line to
form the pointed shape of the pocket flap.
• Round off the bottom corners.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the top edge of the flap.
1 CMSIDE SEAM 1 CM
GRAIN LINE2 CM
5 CM
CENTRE BACK RISE
7 CM 7 CM
GRGRAAIINNLINLEINE
step 18 "⁄318CM "⁄13C8M
Back welted pocket flap patternHIP LINE POCKET
FLAPPOCKET FLAP
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the CUT 2CUT 2 PR SELF PR SELF
flap pattern.
tailored shorts 183
step 19 • You can create the outseam tab on top of the waistband,
Developing the waistband which will allow you to define the correct proportion.
• Create a rectangle 323⁄4in long (the waist circumference • In this case create the waist side-seam tab 23⁄8in long by
measurement) by 23⁄4in wide (double the waistband width). 13⁄16in wide. Measure 3⁄8in in from the left on each long side
Draw a fold line lengthways across the center. Indicate the and connect these points to the center of the left-hand
outside seams and center back, and mark notches for the vertical to create the pointed shape of the tab.
pocket opening and back darts.
• Add 15⁄8in to the center front for the fly extension.
SOIUDTESESAEMAM
1791⁄2"CM 8272⁄8."5 CM 8272⁄8."5 CM 7119⁄2"CM 145⁄C8" M
FOOLLDD GRRAAIINNLILNINE E FOOLLDD
3.513⁄8"CM 3.513⁄8C"M
CF CCBB CCFF
PNOPNOOCOTTCKCCKEHEHTT BBAACCKKDDAARRTT BBAACCKK DARRTT FFLLYYEEXXTTENSIIOONN
PNPNOOOOCTCTKKCCEEHHTT
3⁄18"CM 5 2C"M
1.5 C9⁄1M6" 311⁄8C"M
1.5 C9⁄1M6"
1 3⁄C8"M
FOLD GRAIN LINE WAISTBAND FOLD
CUT 1 SELF
GL WAISTBAND TAB
CUT 2 PR SELF
184 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
FOLD FOLD BACK DART
BACK DART 3.5 CM
POCKET BACK DART
NOTCH POCKET
POCKET NOTCH
NOTCH
POCKET BACK DART 1 CM FLY EXTENSION
NOTCH 3 CM
5 CM
1.5 CM
1.5 CM
step 20 1 CM 5 CM 1 CM
Waistband pattern
1.5 CM 3 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the 1.5 CM
waistband pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
1 CM
• Trace off the tab pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to
all sides.
FOLD GRAIN LINE WAISTBAND FOLD
GRAINLINEGRAIN LINE CUT 1 SELF
FFOOLLDD WAAIISSTTBBAANNDD FOLLDD
CUUTT11SSEELLFF
GL WAAIISSTTBBAANNDDTATABB
CUUTT22PPRRSSEELFLF
GL WAISTBAND TAB
CUT 2 PR SELF
tailored shorts 185
pattern
Cargo Pants
This pattern includes development CENTRE FRONT RISE
of the following features: CERNOTTRCEH FCRUORNVTERISE
Lowered front waist and angled crotch curve CENCTRERNOETTCRBEHATCCBKUARRCVIKESERISE
Angled center back waist HIP LINE HHIPIPLLEIVNEEL
Dropped crotch HHIIPPLLEINVE L HIP LINE
Back yoke
Carrot leg SEAT LINE SEATT LLEINVEEL
Shaped knee patches SEAT LEINVEEL SEAT LINE
Front fly, fly facing, fly extension, and button stand
Angled side pockets GRAIN LINE FRONT BBACK
Back inverted box-pleat patch pocket MASTERFRONT MMAASTEBRACK
Cargo-style bellows pocket
Sectioned waistband PLANMAASSTTEERR PPLLAAMNNASTER
PLAN PLAN
step 1 GRAINLLIINNEE SIDE SEAM SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
Developing the master plan KNEE LKINEE SOIUDTESSEEAAMM SIDE SEAM
INSIDE SEAM LKINNEEE LINE
Start by selecting the basic men’s pant sloper, or by drafting GGRAINLILINNEE
the basic pant sloper according to the instructions on page 45. GRAIN LINE
Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the pant I INNSISINDDESIELDSEEEGSAESMAEAMM
you want to develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and INSIEDAEMSEAM KNEE
all marks, labels, and instructions, following the directions on KNLEEVEEKLLNINEEE LINE
page 49.
HEM LINHEEMLLININEE HEMLLIHNINEEEM LINE
186 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
133⁄C16"M
1.5 C9⁄1M6"
step 2 CERNOTTRCEHFCRUORNVTERISE HHIPIPLLEINVEL
Developing the dropped crotch, lowered front
waist, and angled center front waist 31C3⁄1M6" C OSLEDATSELEAVTELLINE 133⁄C16"M
DROPPENDEWSESAETALTELVIENLE
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level
and redraw the bottom of the front crotch curve and the top INSIEDAEMSEAM SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
of the inseam and outseam. 2.5 C1"M
KNEE
• From the center front waist point measure in 13⁄16in and from GRAINLLIINNEE KLENVEEELLINE
this point measure down 9⁄16in. Redraw the new front crotch
shape to the dropped crotch and redraw the new lowered 03⁄.156" CM
waistline with a shallow curve back to the outseam. The
remaining 3⁄8in will be taken out at the center back waist.
• On the knee level measure in 1in from the inseam and mark,
and 3⁄16in from the outseam and mark. On the hemline
measure out 23⁄4in from the grainline toward the inseam and
mark, and 31⁄2in toward the outseam and mark. Redraw the
new leg seams to taper the front leg silhouette.
HEMLLIINNEE
273⁄C4"M 93C1⁄2M"
3.5 1C3⁄M8" 13⁄8"CM
273⁄C4"M 1 3C⁄8"M
YOKE LINE
ERNOTTRCEHBCAUCRKVERISE
step 3 HHIIPP LLEINVEEL
Developing the dropped crotch, angled center
back waist, and back yoke position OSELDATSLEEAVTELLINE C
NDERWOPSPEEADTSLEINAET LEVEL
• Drop the seat level down 13⁄16in from the original seat level 31C3⁄1M6" 133⁄C16"M
and redraw the bottom of the back crotch curve and the top 19⁄1.65" CM
of the inseam and outseam. GRAINLLIINNEE INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
• From the center back waist point measure in 3⁄8in and from KNEE
this point measure up 3⁄8in; redraw the shorter waistline and KLNEEVEELLINE
the longer back crotch curve.
1.5 9⁄C16M" 1.5 9⁄C16"M
• From the waistline measure 23⁄4in down the crotch curve and
mark, and 13⁄8in down the outseam and mark; connect these
points with a straight line. This is the yoke line.
• On the knee level measure in 9⁄16in from the outseam and
mark, and 9⁄16in from the inseam and mark. On the hemline
measure out 43⁄8in from the grainline toward the outseam
and mark, and 4in toward the inseam and mark. Redraw the
new leg seams to taper the back leg silhouette.
HEMLINE 104"CM
1143C⁄8"M
cargo pants 187
8.5 CM 5.5 CM KNEE 8.5 CM
1 CM PATCH 11 CCMM
1 CM FRONT 8.5 CM
MASTER
8.5 CM PLAN
5.5 CM
KNEE LINE
INSIDE LEG
step 4 SEAM
Developing THE front leg styling, front knee SIDE SEAM
patch, fly, and pocket positions
415⁄C8"M 145⁄C8"M
• To create the fly shape, measure in 15⁄8in from the new 3⁄16"
center front waist point and from here measure down 71⁄8in. CERNOTRCEH FCRUORNVTERISE
At the bottom of this line measure 13⁄16in back up and make 711⁄88"CM HHIIPPLLEINVEEL 263C⁄8"M
a mark, then draw a curved line from this point back to the 381⁄C8"M
crotch curve. 133⁄16C"M
313⁄C16"M
• To create the angled pocket opening, measure in 15⁄8in along
the outseam waist and connect this point back to where the INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM SESAETATLELVINEEL SOIUDTESSEEAAMM CARGO
hip level joins the outseam with a straight line. GRAINLLIINNEE FRONT POCKET
MASTER POSITION
• Extend the pocket opening line at the waistline by 3⁄16in PLAN
and redraw it, blending the line back to waistline to enlarge
the opening. 7 C23M⁄4" 32⁄4"CM 273⁄C4"M
10 C4M" KNEE
Enlarging the angled pocket opening to LKENVEEELLINE
accommodate the width of the hand
The pocket opening must be enlarged to 41"0 CM
allow for different hand widths or the
pockets will be too tight to use and 32⁄4"CM
stretching will occur.
HEMLINE
• To mark the cargo pocket position measure 23⁄8in down from
the bottom of the slit pocket opening and 31⁄8in in from that
point and mark.
• To develop the front knee patch measure 23⁄4in up from the
knee level on both the outseam and the inseam and square
across; measure 4in down from the same points and
square across.
• From the center of these lines measure out 3⁄4in; redraw,
passing through these points with a curved line.
step 5 8.5 3C3M⁄8" 25.1⁄58"CM KNEE 383.5⁄8"CM
Adding darts to the front knee patch 1 C3⁄8M" PATTCCHH 1133⁄⁄88CC"" MM
1 C3⁄8M" INSIEDAEMLEG FRONT SOIUDTESSEEAAMM 383.5⁄8"CM
• To add the knee darts trace off the knee patch shape onto a SEAM MASTER
separate piece of paper. Divide it in half horizontally across 8.53C3⁄M8" PLAN
the center (half the patch height of 63⁄4in). On both seams
measure up 3⁄8in and down 3⁄8in from the center and connect 521.5⁄8"CM
each of these points to the center line with a 21⁄8in line, KKNNEEEE LLEINVEEL
forming the darts.
4 CM 4 CM
188 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
ONT RISE
18 CM
step 6 step 7
Front leg patterns Developing THE back leg styling, back knee
patch, back yoke, and pocket positions
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
knee patch pattern and the upper front and lower front • Trace off the back yoke shape onto a separate piece of paper,
leg patterns. cut through the dart legs, and close up to create the curved
yoke shape.
8.5 CM UPPER FRONT UPPER FRONT
11 CCMM CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF • To remove the remaining volume left by the dart leg,
8.5 CM measure 3⁄8in in from the outseam along the yoke line
CARGO and reshape the outseam from this point back down to the
N POCKET hip level.
POSITION
• To mark the patch pocket position square out 23⁄4in in each
GRAINLILINNEE direction from the bottom of the dart horizontal to the
crotch curve.
ALIGNMENT
NOTCH • To mark the cargo pocket position measure 23⁄8in down from
the hip level and 31⁄8in in from that point and mark.
FRONT KNEE PATTCH
CUT 1 PR SELF • To develop the back knee patch measure 23⁄4in up from
the knee level on both the outseam and the inseam and
ALIGNMENT square across; measure 4in down from the same points and
NNOOTTCCHH square across.
LOWER FRONT • Find the center of these lines and mark. On both seams
CUT 1 PR SELF measure down 3⁄8in from the top line and up 3⁄8in from the
bottom line and mark. Shape the knee by joining these points
back to the center points with straight lines.
GRAINLILINNEE 3.5 1C3M⁄8" 273⁄C4"M
1 3C⁄8"M BACK
MASTER
723 ⁄C4"M 723 C⁄4"M PLAN NOTTRCEHBCAUCRKVERISE
6 2C3M⁄8" HHIPIPLLEIVNEL
83C1⁄8M"
CARGO SEAT LEINVEEL CER
POCKET
GRAINLLIINNEE POSITION SOIUDTESSEEAAMM INSIEDAEMLEG SEAM
GRAINLILINNEE
1 C3⁄8M" KNEE 13⁄8C" M
7 C23M⁄4" LKENVEEELLINE 273⁄C4"M
10 CM4" 140" CM
1 C3⁄8M" 13⁄8C" M
HEMLINE
cargo pants 189
step 8 step 9
Back leg patterns DEVELOPING THe Front fly facing and
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the yoke button stand
pattern, the knee back pattern, and the upper back and lower • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the fly shape
back leg patterns. developed in Step 4 onto a separate piece of paper. Flip over
the fly shape along the straight edge line and redraw to
BACK YOKE create a mirror image. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
CUT 1 PR SELF
GL • The pattern is folded along the straight line to give double
CB thickness to the buttonholes once positioned.
• Trace off the single fly shape from the left side of the button
stand to create the fly facing pattern.
1 CM
1 CM 4 CM 4 CM
ALIGNMENT 1 CM 41C5⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M FOLD LINE
NOTCHES 3⁄8" 3⁄8"
PPPPPAOOOTSCSCIKTIHTEIOITONN 31⁄8C"M 1 CM
GRAINLLIINNEE GR GAIRANINLILINNEE GRAIN LINE
UPPER BACK
CARGO CUT 1 PR SELF FRONT FLY BUTTON STAND
POCKET CUT 1 SELF
POSITION
7181⁄8C"M
ALIGNMENT FRO FNRTONFTLFLYYFFAACICINGNG
NOTCHES CUT C1UTS1ESLELFFRR..S.S.UU
GRAINLLIINNEE KNEE BACK 1 CM
CUT 1 PR SELF
3⁄8" 1 CM 4.5 CM 4.5 CM 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM
ALIGNMENT 1 CM 154⁄8C"M 15⁄48"CM 13⁄8C"M FOL.D LINE
NNOOTTCCHHEESS
31⁄8C"M 1 CM
3⁄8" 3⁄8"
1 CM 4 CM 1 CM FFOOLLDDLILNIENE
1 CM 1 CM
GRAINLLIINNEE 19 CM BBUUTTTTONOPNOSITIONS 19 CM
LOWER BACK POSITIONS
CUT 1 PR SELF GRAIN LINE
GRAIN LINE GGRRAAIINNLILINENE
FRO FNRTONFTLFYLYBBUUTTTTONOSNTASNTDAND FLY
EXTENSION
CUT 1 SELF
18 CM
FRONT FLY FACING CUT C1UTS 1ESLEFLF 1 CM 1 CM
CUT 1 SELF R.S.U 1 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 4.5 CM 4.5 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
190 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS FOL.D LINE
FRONT
CUT 1 S
step 10 1 CM 3⁄8"
developing the Front fly extension
3⁄8"
Fly extension size 1 CM 14.35⁄4"CM 143.⁄54"CM 1 CM
The front fly extension is wider and
longer then the fly facing and button 1 C3⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
stand so that it will cover them both,
because multiple seams may cause FFOL.ODL LDINE
irritation to the wearer.
1791C⁄2"M GGRRAIANILINNLIENE 7119⁄2"CM
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a vertical box 71⁄2in long
and 31⁄2in wide to create the fly extension. FLY EEFXXLTYTEENSNISOINON
CUT 1CUSTE1LSFELF
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the
center, and label it fold. 1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C" M
13C⁄8"M 13⁄C8"M
• When folded and placed along the front crotch curve the top
edge of the fly extension will need to be modified to follow 1243C⁄4M" 41C5⁄8M"
the angle of the waistline. Trace across and redraw. 13⁄8"CM
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides. 12061⁄4C"M 133⁄C16"M 1557⁄8"CM
145⁄8C" M
step 11 FRONT 3⁄24"CM
Developing the front pocket bag POCKET
• First recreate the original shape of the front pant leg master BAG
plan before the shape for angled side pocket was removed MASTER
and redraw the pocket opening from Step 4 (without the
extension for the enlarged opening). PLAN
• Next create the pocket bag template by measuring 43⁄4in CCREONTCREH FCRUORNVERISE 7 2C3M⁄4"
along the waistline from the pocket opening to develop the
pocket bag width. From this point square down 101⁄4in; this is 133⁄16C"M 313⁄C16"M
the length of the pocket bag.
313⁄C16"M 313⁄C16"M
• From the bottom of the pocket opening on the outseam,
to create a step, measure down 15⁄8in and from this point 4123⁄4"CM
measure in 3⁄4in; from here measure down a further 23⁄4in
and connect this point to the pocket length to close the 03.⁄516C"M
bag shape.
POCKET FOPAOPCCEKIENNTFGIAONCPGLIENINGNINLEGINDE DEEPPTTHH
• To create a slight angle to the side of the pocket bag, at the GRAGINRALIINNLEINE
top of the pocket measure 3⁄8in back along the waistline
toward the outseam and redraw the pocket length. At the FRONT
bottom of the pocket, round off the corners (13⁄16in by 13⁄16in), POCKET
and round off the step.
BAG
• Develop the pocket facing depth by measuring in 13⁄16in from MASTER
the opening and connecting the waistline with the step using
a parallel curved line. PLAN
FRONT
step 12 POCKET
Developing the front pocket bag master plan
BAG
• Trace off the pocket bag shape with the facing depth line MASTER
onto a separate piece of paper, extend the pocket opening
line by 3⁄16in, and redraw, blending the line back to the PLAN
top edge.
cargo pants 191
step 13 BEARER STITCH LINE BEARER STITCH LINE
Front pocket bag component patterns
UNDER POCKET BAG UNDER POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING CUT 1 PR POCKETING
The pocket bearer BEARER STITCH LINE • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top ALIG
pocket bag pattern and the top pocket facing from the latest NOT
UNDER POCKET BAG development in Step 12, includinNALOgITGCNHtMhENeT extended pocket
CUT 1 PR POCKETING opening. Trace off the pocket bearer and the under pocket ALI
The pocket bearer is cut from the bag without the additional shape formed by the extended GRAIN LINE NO
pocket opening.
original fabric and is sewn to the GRAIN LINE
waistband and outseam behind the angled
pocket opening. It is attachedALIGNMENT to the
NOTCH
pocketing material of the under pocket
GRAIN LINE
bag. While the pocket opening was made
longer in Step 4, the pocket bearer and
under pocket bag will follow the original
line of the waistline, holding the
dimensions of the pocket parts together.
FACING STITCH LINE
TOP POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
UUNNDDEREPROCPKOETCBKAGET BAG FACING STITCH LINE POCKETGRAINLGIRNAIEN LINEPOCKETPOOPCEKOPENINGNEITLINE TOP PTOOCPKEPT OBACGKET BAG FACING STITCH LIFNAE CING STITCH LINE TOP POCKET POCKET OPENING LINE GRAIN LINE
CCUUTT1 P1RPPROCKPEOTINCGKETING BEARER CUT 1CPURTPO1CKPERTINPGOCKETING FACING
BEARER SCTOUTPB1EPOPARCRKPEEORTCBKSAETGTIITNCGH CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELFGGRRAAININLINLEINE
TITCH LINELINE
ALIGNMENT NG LINEPCOUCTK1ETPRBESAERLFER NANALOLOITGICTGNHMCNEHMNTENT GRAIN LINE
NOTCH
GRAIN LINE GRAIN LINE PCOUCCTTOKUPT1EP1TPOPRBCREKSSEAEETLRLFFFEARCING
NANALOLOITGICTGNHMCNEHMNTENT
TOP POCKET FACING GGRRAIANILNINLEINE GRAIN LINE GGRRAIANILNINLEINE
CUT 1 PR SELF
step 14 TOP POCKET FACING 1 CM3⁄8"237⁄4C" M 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 237⁄4C" M 1 CM
Developing the back inverted box-pleat CUT 1 PR SELF FFOOLDLLIDNE 13⁄8C"M
patch pocket and panel top 1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
3⁄8"
• For the patch pocket draw a rectangle 7in wide and FFOLODLLIDNEBBAACCK PKLEPALTEEDAPTATECDH POCKET 1
65⁄8in deep. PCUATT1CPHR SPELOFCKET 1 CM
3⁄8"CUT 1 PR SELF
• From the top of the center line measure out 3⁄8in on GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE 3⁄8"
both sides and mark, and then a further 3⁄8in on both FACING STITCH LINE POCKET OPENING LINE 1557C⁄8M" FFOLODLLIDNE 5157⁄C8"M
sides and mark. Repeat at the bottom of the vertical 23C⁄4"M
line. Join all these points with dotted vertical lines TOP POCKET BAG GRAIN LINE 3⁄8"
and label each fold. The two outside lines will be CUT 1 PR POCKETING FFOLODLLIDNE
folded toward the center line to create the hidden
inverted box pleat. 3⁄8"
ALIGNMENT PCOUCTK1ETPRBESAERLFER 1 CM
1
• From the left bottom corner measurNeOTuCHp 3⁄4in and
mark, and measure across 3⁄4in and mark. Join these GRAIN LINE 2 3C⁄4M"
two points to create a shaved corner. Repeat at the
GRAIN LINE right bottom corner.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides. 13⁄8C"M
192 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
TOP POCKE
CUT 1 PR S
7 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 7 CM 1 CM
1 CM
FOLDLINE 1 CM 5141⁄C2"M 1 CM
FOLDLINE 1541C⁄2M"
1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
GRAIN LINE
FOLDLINE BACK PATCH 2 C3M⁄4"
FOLDLINE PBAOCCK KPAETCTHPPAOCNKEETLPANEL FOFLODLDLLIINNEE
CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF
3⁄8" 3⁄8" 2 C3M⁄4"
GRGARIAINNLILINNEE13C⁄8M"
13⁄C8"M
3⁄8" 3⁄8"1 CM
EATED PATCH POCKET step 15 1 CM
SELF Developing the panel top for
the back inverted box-pleat
patch pocket
• For the panel top of the patch po1c5 kCMet
draw a horizontal rectangle 51⁄2in
long by 11⁄2in wide. Divide it in half
lengthways and draw in a dotted fold
line. This will give a panel facing
of 3⁄4in.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on
all sides.
2 CM
1 CM step 16 1 CM
Developing the cargo-style bellows pocket 313C⁄16M" TOOPP FFAACCIINNGG 133C⁄16M"
• The bellows sides and bottom are developed onto the FFOOLLDD LINE
pocket front. Start by drawing a vertical rectangle 9in long
381C⁄8"M 381C⁄8"M
2 3C⁄4M" 2 3C⁄4M" 2 3C⁄4"M 2 3C⁄4M"
by 61⁄4in wide. GRRAAIINNLINEE
• Along the top edge of this shape add a 13⁄16in facing strip.
• To create the bellows sides, on each side of the pocket BELLLLOOWWSSSISIDDEE FOOLLDDLLIINNEE
FFOOLLDD LINE BELLLLOOWWSSSISIDDEE
measure out 11⁄2in from the original top line and 11⁄2in from
the bottom line and join these two points. Draw a fold line
down the middle. 23 C9M"
• For the bottom bellows strip, draw a similar 11⁄2in rectangle at
the bottom edge, with a center fold line. CAARRGGOO PPOOCCKKEETTBBAAGG
CUUTT 11PPRRSSEELLFF
• To create the two cutaway corner shapes, draw a line at 45
degrees to each bottom corner and square out from this 3⁄4in
in each direction. Draw three sides of a 11⁄2in square, cutting
into the bellows strips. When sewn these shapes will create
mitered corners when the bellows are folded.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides except the top of the 6161⁄4C" M
bellows side panels.
BBEELLLLOOWWSS 2 CM3⁄4"
BOOTTTTOOMM
FOOLLDD LLIINNEE
2 CM3⁄4"
3 CM TOP FACING 3 CM 1 CM 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 63⁄41"7 CM 1 CM
GRGARIAINNLILINNEE
FOLD LINE 13C⁄8M" 13C⁄8M"
st8eCMp 17 3⁄8" 3⁄8"
8 CM
2 CM 2 CM Developing the ca2rCMg2oCM pocket flap
GRAIN LINE 6 CM 6 CM
BELLOWS SIDE • To develop the pocket flap, draw a rectangle 63⁄4in long andFOLD LINE
FOLD LINE 43⁄4in wide. Divide the width in half 23⁄8in by 23⁄8in with aBELLOWS SIDE 23⁄8" CARGO FOFOLLDDLLINIENE 23⁄8"
do23tCtMed line the length of the pattern. This will be the fold line 23⁄8" PCAORCGOKPEOTCKFELT AFLPAP 62C3⁄M8"
when constructed. CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF
6 CM
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
CARGO POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR SELF
16 CM 1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
2 CM 1 CM 63⁄41"7 CM 1 CM
BELLOWS FOLD LINE
BOTTOM 2 CM
cargo pants 193
step 18 • To develop the facing, on a separate piece of paper, draw
Developing the waistband facing a horizontal box 15⁄8in wide by 347⁄8in long (331⁄8in waist
measurement + 13⁄4in fly extension), then notch the positions
This waistband is developed in two parts. of the following for alignment—pockets, outseams, and center
The inside facing is one full piece while back—by measuring them from the waistline on the front and
the outside is segmented into parts that back pant patterns.
match the pocket openings.
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the final
facing pattern.
CENTERER FRONT / FLY EXTENTION POCKET OPENING CENTERRE BACK SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM POCKET OPENING
CENTERRE FRONT
41C5⁄8M" BACK FACING GRAINLLIINNEE 145⁄8"CM
CUT 1 SELF 2827⁄8."5 CM
CENTRE FRONT / FLY EXTENTION 1 3C⁄8M"
13C⁄8"M 143.⁄45" CM 1651⁄8."5 CM 145C⁄8"M 2827⁄8."5 CM 41C5⁄8M" 1651⁄8."5 CM
POCKET OPENING CENTRE BACK SIDE SEAM
SIDE SEAM POCKET OPENING
CENTRE FRONT
4 CMstep 19 BACK FACING GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 SELF
Developing the waistband BACK RIGHT
CUT 1 SELF
• 1TCMo d4e.5vCMelop the wais1t5.b5 CaMnd, create sep4 CaMrate panel patterns 22.5 CM 22.5 CM 4 CM CENTRE FRONT / FLY EXTENTION 15.5 CM 1 CM
22.5 CM
15⁄8in wide and the following in length: front left (61⁄8in),
pocket section left (15⁄8in), back left (87⁄8in), back right
POCKET OPENING SIDE SEAM
SIDE SEAM CENTRE BACK POCKET OPENING
(87⁄8in), pocket section right (15⁄8in), and front right including
fly extension (77⁄8in).
1 CM • Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the 1 CM
final patterns. 1 CM
FRONT LEFT BACK LEFT FRONT RIGHT 4 CM
CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF
CF CENTERER FRROONNT /T /FLFLYYEEXXTTEENNTITIOONN1 CM
1 CM CF 15.5 CM 4 CM 22.5 CM 4 CM 15.5 CM 4.5 CM 1 CM
POCKET
SECTION LEFT POCKET
CUT 1 SECTION RIGHT
POCKET OPENING CUT 1
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
CENTERRE BACK POCKET OPENING
13⁄C8"M FRONT LEFT BACK LEFT BACK RIGHT FRONT RIGHT 13C⁄8M"
1 C3M⁄8" CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF 13⁄8C" M
4 C1M5⁄8" 1651⁄8.5" CM 2827⁄8."5 CM 2827⁄8."5 CM 1651⁄8."5 CM 415C⁄8"M
1 C3M⁄8" 13⁄8C" M
41.53⁄4C" M 31⁄8C" M
13⁄8C"M 415C⁄8"M 415C⁄8"M
POCKET
SECTION LEFT POCKET
CUT 1 SECTION RIGHT
CUT 1
194 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
4 CM
M
cargo pants 195
pattern
Jeans
Bootcut leg Straight leg
Skinny leg Carrot leg
Shrinkage This pattern includes development
of the following features:
Shrinkage is not included in this Lowered front waist and angled crotch curve
adaptation of the jeans pattern. All Raised center back waist
raw cotton denim shrinks when washed. Back yoke
A shrink test should be carried out Straight legs, bootcut legs, carrot legs, skinny legs
first. Cut a square yard, apply the Jeans pocket
washing technique relevant to the final Coin pocket
product, and remeasure the square yard: Back patch pocket
This will give you the ratio by which Straight waistband
the square has shrunk, which you can then
apply to the pattern by increasing the
width and length. Alternatively, make
the jeans in their entirety and then
apply the washing technique relevant
to the style. Remeasure the jeans and
adapt the pattern to accommodate the
shrinkage ratio.
196 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 1 step 2
Developing the master plan Developing the lowered front waist and angled
crotch curve
Start by selecting the basic men’s pant sloper, or by drafting
the basic pant sloper according to the instructions on page 45. • Remove the 15⁄8in pleat volume by angling back the front rise.
Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the pant From the center front waist point measure in 13⁄16in and from
you want to develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and this point measure down 9⁄16in. Redraw the new front crotch
all marks, labels, and instructions, following the directions on curve shape down to the crotch point.
page 49.
CENTRE FRONT RISE CENCTRERNOETTCRBEHATCCBKUARRCVIKESERISE 133⁄16C"M
CREONTRCEH FCRUORNVTE RISE PPLLEEAAT
LLIINNEESS
1.5 C9⁄1M6" NNEEWWCFCF WAIST
4 15C⁄8"M
HIP LINE HHIIPPLLEINVEEL NE
HHIPIPLLEIVNEL HHIPIPLLEIVNEEL SEAT LEINVEEL H
HIP LINE
SEAT LINE FRONT
SEAT LEINVEEL SEATT LLEINVE L MASTER
SEAT LINE PLAN
FRONT
GRAIN LINE GRAINLLIINNEEMASTEFRRONTSIDE SEAM BACK INSIEDAEMSEAM
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM MASTBEARRCK GRAINLILINNEE
PLAMNASTER SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
PLAN PPLLMAAANSTER SIDE SEAM
PLAN
KNEEKLNIENEE SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
INSIDE SEAM LKENVEEEL LINE SIDE SEAM
GRAINLILINNEE
GRAIN LINE
INISN IESINADSMIEDSEESAEMAM
INSIEDAEMSEAM KKLENNVEEEKEELNLEINEELINE KNEE
LKENVEEELLINE
3 CM PLEAT
LINES
WAIST NEW CB
1.5 CM
HEM LHINEEMLLIINNEE NEW CF 4 CM HEMLLIINNEE
HEMHLLIENIMNEELINE jeans 197
NNEEWWHHIPIPLLEINVEL 32⁄4"CM
HIP LINE HHIPIPLLEINVEL
SEAT LINE
SEAT LEINVEEL
FRONT
MASTER BACK
PLAN MASTER
PLAN
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
INSIDE SEAM GRAINLLIINNEE
GRAIN LINE
SIDE SEAM INSIEDAEMSEAM
step 3 KNEE
Developing the raised center back waist LKENVEEEL LINE
KNEE LINE
• From the crotch curve cut along the hip level toward the
outseam. Open up the back crotch curve 3⁄4in and redraw the
new position of the waist top.
HEMLLIINNEE
HEM LINE
CENTER 1413⁄8C" M
FRONT
WAIST
POINT 313.⁄58"CM
CF 37".5 CM
CCFF
17 6C3M⁄4" 145⁄C8"M
3⁄24"CM HHIIPPLLEINVE L
step 4 415⁄C8"M CF
Developing the front fly, jeans pocket, 133.⁄58" CM SEAT LEINVEEL FRONT LEG
and leg silhouettes C CUT 1 PR SELF
• To create the fly shape, measure in 13⁄8in from the center FRONT
front waist point and from here measure down 63⁄4in to MASTER
create a rectangular fly shape. At the bottom of this line PLAN
measure 3⁄4in back up and make a mark; draw a curved line
from this point back to the crotch curve. INSIEDAEMSEAM KNEE GRAIN LINE
GRAINLLIINNEE KLENVEEELLINE
• From the outseam waist point measure back 43⁄8in and down
3in and create a rectangle. At the bottom left corner of the SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
rectangle measure 15⁄8in along and 15⁄8in up and join the
points to create a rounded opening. BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG SLIM LLEEGG BOOT CUT LEG
STRAIGHT LEG STRAIGHT LEG STRAIGHT LEG
• The original outseam of the master plan is the outseam for SLIM LLEEGG BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG SLIM LEG
the straight leg silhouette. To create the slim leg silhouette SLIM LEG
measure in 13⁄16in from both seams along the hemline and STRAIGHT LEG
redraw the seams up to the seat level.
BOOT CUT LEG
• To create the bootcut silhouette measure out 3⁄4in from
both seams along the hemline and redraw the seams up to
the knee.
HEMLLIINNEE
2 C3⁄4M" 3 13C⁄16M"
3 1C3⁄16M" 2 C3⁄4M"
3.5 CM 11 CM
F 7.5 CM
CF
17 CM 4 CM
2 CM HIP LINE
step 5 4 CM CC FF
SEAT LINE FRONT LEG
Front leg pattern 3.5 CM FRONT CUT 1 PR SELF
C MASTER
PLAN
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
pant leg pattern using the desired leg silhouette.
INSIDE SEAM KNEE LINE SIDE SEAM GRAINLILINNEE
GRAIN LINE
BOOT CUT LEG SLIM LEG BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG
STRAIGHT LEG STRAIGHT LEG STRAIGHT LEG
SLIM LEG BOOT CUT LEG SLIM LLEEGG
HEM LINE SLIM LLEEGG
STRAIGHT LEG
BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG
2 CM 3 CM
3 CM 2 CM
198 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
3⁄18"5⁄0C1.68"M CM 831⁄C8"M
YOKE STYLE LINE
31C3⁄1M6"
step 6 0.85⁄1C6"M CROTCH CURVE
Developing the back yoke shape and HIHPIPLELVINEEL
leg silhouettes
SESAETATLELVINEEL BACK LEG
• From the waistline, measure 31⁄8in down the crotch curve and
mark, and 13⁄16in down the outseam and mark; connect the SOIUDTESSEEAAMM BACK
points with a straight line. This is the yoke line. MASTER
PLAN
• Measuring along the waistline, remove 3⁄8in from the GRAINLLIINNEE
outseam, which is extra volume left by the front pleat. KNEE INSIEDAEMSEAM
KLNEEVEELLINE
• Trace off the back yoke shape onto a separate piece of paper,
cut through the dart legs, and close up to create the curved LEG STRAIGHT LEG SLIM LEG BOOT CUT LEG
yoke shape. BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG STRAIGHT LEG
BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG STSRTARIAGIHGTHTLELGEG SLIM LEG
• To remove the remaining volume left by the dart leg, SLIM
measure 5⁄16in in from the outseam along the waistline and
reshape the outseam from this point. HEMLLIINNEE
• The original outseam of the master plan is the outseam for 2 C3⁄4M" 3 13C⁄16M"
the straight leg silhouette. To create the slim leg silhouette 3 13C⁄16M" 2 C3⁄4M"
measure in 13⁄16in from both seams along the hemline and
redraw the seams up to the seat level.
• To create the bootcut silhouette measure out 3⁄4in from
both seams along the hemline and redraw the seams up to
the knee.
1 0C.8M CM 8 CM
3 CM YOKE STYLE LINE
step 7 0.8 CM
Back leg pattern
HIP LINE BACK LEG WAIST LINE
CUT 1 PR SELF
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back
pant leg pattern using the desired leg silhouette.
SEAT LINE
BACK
MASTER
PLAN
SIDE SEAM SIDE SEAM
GRAIN LINE 3 CM BACK YOKE
INSIDE SEAM CUT 1 PR SELF
KNEE LINE
LEG STRAIGHT LEG SLIM LEG BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG
BOOT CUT LEG STSRTARIAGIHGTHTLELGEG
LEG SLIM LEG
SLIM GRAINLLIINNEE
SLIM LEG
BOOT CUT LEG STRAIGHT STRAIGHT LEG
BOOTCCUUTTLLEEGG
HEM LINE
2 CM 3 CM jeans 199
3 CM 2 CM
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