step 8 WWAAISITSLTINLEINE GRAIGRNALIINNLIENE 831C⁄8M"
Back yoke pattern BBAACCK YKOKYEOKE CENCTEENTRREBBAACCKK
133C⁄1M6" OUSITDES SEEAAMM CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF
• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the final back yoke pattern. 1 CM 3.5 CM 3.5 CM 1 CM
Seam allowance is not added as many 1 CM 1
seam variations are possible in jeans
construction. The two most commonly BACK LEG YOKE GRAIN LINE
used are flat felled seams and lapped
seams; the former usually has a seam BAALICGNKMLENETGNOYTCOHKESE
allowance of 3⁄8in and the latter 3⁄16. ALIGNMENT
NOTCHES
FLY
EXTENSION
CUT 1 SELF
18 CM
3⁄8"
13⁄8"
3⁄8"
1 CM 1 CM
13⁄C8"M 13⁄8C"M
3.5 CM FOL.D LINE
step 9 GRAINLINE 1 CM 1
Front fly facing pattern GRAIN LINE 1 CM 1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the fly shape CENTRCEEFRNOTNETR FRONT 63⁄4"
developed in Step 4 onto a separate piece of paper and flip it
over, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides to create the 17 CM
final fly facing.
FLYFLFYAFACCIINNGG
CUCTUT1 1SSEELLFFR.SR..US.U
13⁄C8"M
13⁄C8"M
step 10
Front fly extension pattern
1 CM3⁄8"3.5 CM 3.5 CM 1 CM
FLY EXTENSION
13C⁄8M" CUT 1 SELF 13⁄8" 13⁄C8"M
GRAINLIGNRAEIN LINE
Front fly extension size FLY
13⁄8"EXTENSION
The front fly extension is longer than 3⁄8"CUT 1 SELF
the fly facing so that it will cover
it, because multiple seams may cause
irritation to the wearer.
71⁄8" 18 CM
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a vertical box 71⁄8in l1oCMng 1 CM
1 CM
by 23⁄4in wide. 1 CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the 3.5 CM FOL.FDOLILNDE
center, and label it fold. GRAIN LINE
• When folded and placed along the front crotch curve the top
edge of the fly extension will need to be modified to follow
the angle of the waistline. Trace across and redraw. CENTRE FRONT
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides. 13C⁄8M" 13C⁄8"M
1 CM 1 CM
3⁄8"
3⁄8"
17 CM
200 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
ING
LF R.S.U
133.⁄58" CM 1431⁄8"CM
30⁄1.65" CM
step 11 3.5 CM 11 CM 73."5 CM
Developing the front jeans pocket bag 133⁄C16"M
and bearer 0.5 CM POC7K.5ECTMLINE133⁄C16"M 273⁄C4"M
• Extend the pocket opening line 3⁄16in above the waistline to GRAIN LINE 249C1⁄2M" 3 CM
allow for the width of the hand. From this point measure a
further 13⁄8in toward the center front to create the pocket GRAINLLIINNEE POCKET 3 CM HHIIPPLLEINVEL
bag width. From here square down 91⁄2in and mark; then POCKET OPENINGLINE
square back 61⁄4in to the outseam. 24 CM ALIGNMENT NOTCHES7 CM
• Develop the pocket opening facing and bearer depth by HIP LINE FRONT
drawing a line 13⁄16in from and parallel with the opening line. FRONT MASTER
MASTER PLAN
• From the opening line on the outseam measure 13⁄16in down PLAN
(the facing depth) and a further 23⁄4in and mark. Connect
this point with the end of the pocket depth line using a 16 CM 6161⁄4"CM
descending curve.
step 12 FACING ALFIACGINNGMALEIGNNTMENNTOTNOCTCHH APOPLOOPICGCEKNEMNKTEEIONNPTTGENNOINTCGHES POCKET OPE
Front jeans pocket bag and GGRARINAILINNLEINE ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT N
bearer patterns NOTCH
3.5 CM 11 CM FFAACCINIGNAGLIGNMENT NOTCH POCKET OPENING
ALIGNMENT
NOTCH ALIGNMENPTONCOTKCEHETS
OPENING
FRONT JEAN ALIGNMENT
CCFPRUUOOTNT1CTP1KJREEPSAETRNLPFBSOPAECOKGCLEKFTEBTIANGG NOTCH
POCKETING FACING ALIGNMENT NOTCH
• The jeans pocket bag is constructe0.5dCM GRAIN LINE
FACING ALIGNMENT NOTCH
in one piece. Trace off the pocket bag 7.5 CM POCKET OPENING
3 CM ALIGNMENT NOTCHES
shape from the master plan mirroring 7 CM FRONT JEAN POCKET BEARER POCKET OPENING POCKE
CUT 1 PR SELF ALIGNMENT NOTCHES ALIGN
fsitoholadvpeleinrfeur.osRimnegmthtoheveleeleftthftse-ihdpaeon.c2d4kCesMtidoepaesnPOitCnKhEgeT LINE3 CMGRAIN LINE GRFAIFNOOLLLIDNDLIENLIENE
• Trace off the final pocket bearer shaHIPpLeINE
from the front pocket master plan.
FRONT
MASTER
PLAN
7.5 CM POCKET 16 CM FRONT JEAN POsCtKeETpB1A3G FOLD LINE
3 CM POCKEOTPOEPENININNGG CUT 1 PR SELF PDOECVKEETLINOGPING THE Coin pocket
7 CM ALIGNAMLEINGT NNOMTCEHNEST FRONT JEAN
FPROONCTKJEEATN BPOECAKERTEBREARER PATTERN
NOTCH CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF
• Draw a rectangle 23⁄8in wide by 4in
POCKET OPENING long. At one end, along the shorter
ALIGNMENT NOTCHES side, mark two fold lines 3⁄8in apart.
POCKET OPENING
ALIGNMENT NOTCHES
GGRARINAILINNLEINE COIN 236⁄8C"M 13⁄8C"M
POCKET FFOOLLFDDOFOLLDD 13⁄8C"M
FACING ALIGNMENT NOTCH CUT 1 SELF
GRAIN LINE
GRAINLINEGRAIN-
POCKET LINE
FACING ALIGNMENT NOTCH OPENING 140 "CM
ALIGNMENT
PANLOICOGKNTEMTCEONHPTENNIONTCGHES COIN POCKET
CUT 1 SELF
jeans 201
FRONT JEAN POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR SELF POCKETING
INE
step 14
Developing the back patch pocket bag
1 CM
YOKE LINE7.53C"M 133⁄C16"M • From the center point of the yoke line measure out 3in each
7.53C"M side and f2roCmM each of these points square downFA13C⁄IN16Gin and
3 1C3M⁄16" mark. Draw a line between these two points; this is the top
opening of the patch pocket. FromFOtLhDe center point of the
opening, square down 57⁄8in and mark. FOLD
• From this point measure up 3⁄4in and mark. Square out 21⁄2in
to each side, and connectPtAhTeCsHePpOCoKinEtTs up to the top opening
line to give an angled pockCeUTt 1shPRapSeEL. F
• Connect the same points down to the center point on the
bottom line.
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM 5175⁄8"CM
2 C3⁄M4" GGRRAAIINNLLIINNEEHHIPIPLLEINVEL
CCERNTORTECBHACCKURIRSVEE
32⁄4"CM
GRAIN LINE
SEAT LEINVEEL
BACK PATCH
POCKET
MASTER PLAN
SIDE SEAM YOKE LINE7.5 CM 3 CM 1 CM FAFACCIINNGG 1 CM
GRAIN LINE7.5 CM
CENTRE BACK RISE3 CM2 3C⁄4M" 23⁄C4"M
step 15 3⁄8"FFOOLDLDFOFLODLD
Back patch pocket bag pa15tCMtern GGRRAIAIN LNINLIENE
PPAATTCHCPHOCPKOETCKET
3⁄8"CCUUTT1 P1RPSERLFSELF
• Following the instructions on page 50, traHIcPeLINEoff the patch
pocket bag pattern2 aCMnd add a 3⁄4in fol2dCeM d facing at the top
and a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all other sides to create the
final pattern. SEAT LINE
BACK PATCH
POCKET
MASTER PLAN
202 Chapter FOUR the patterns: PANTS
step 16 POCKET OPENING CENTERER BACK FLY EXTENTSION
Developing the waistband ALIGNMENT NOTCH
SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
• Draw a rectangle 31⁄4in wide by 34in SOIUDTESSEEAAMM
long (317⁄8in waist measurement plus
5⁄8in ease plus 11⁄2in fly extension 1 C3⁄M8" FOLD LINE GRAINLLIINNEE WAISTBBAANNDD POCKET OPENING 13⁄8C" M
measurement) with the fly extension 4 1C5M⁄8" 228C5⁄8M" CUT 1 SELF ALIGNMENT NOTCH 415⁄C8"M
marked at the right-hand end. Draw a
fold line down the center lengthways. 4 1C5M⁄8" CF 145⁄C8"M
1 C3⁄M8" 3.5 11C⁄2"M 13⁄8C" M
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to all sides.
• Notch the center front, pocket 1795⁄8."5 CM 8252⁄8"CM 7159⁄8."5 CM
openings, outseams, and center back. POCKET OPENING Make all arrows with pink text into black
ALIGNMENT NOTCH arrows
jeans 203
TheCHAPTER FIVE
Patterns:
outerwear
pattern
ANORAK
This pattern includes CHEST LIENVEEL PBPNBOAIAOTCICCTNKKCHTH
development of the following features: BACK MASTER PFNFRIROTOOCTNCNHTTH
Adding volume to the front and back patterns POINT
Enlarging the neckline PLAN
Creating a shaped and elasticated hemline FRONT MASTER
Creating a dropped shoulder with seam moved toward PPLLAANN
CENTREER BACK
the front SIDE SEAM
Developing a center front patch pocket with mitered GGRRAAIINNLLIINNEE
corners, zipper opening, and flap CENTERER FRONT
Enlarging the sleeve cap
Creating a sleeve with elasticated cuffs WAISTLINE
Developing a hood with separate front peak
HEIPMLLEINVE L
step 1
Developing the master plan
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the jacket you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
206 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 2 BACK HSHIGOHUPLDOEINRT FCREONNTRTE FRONT
Developing the enlarged SNHEOCKULPDOEINRT HSHIGOHUPLODEINRT
neck, dropped shoulder, and ⁄316" SNHEOCKULPDOEINRT
lowered arm, and adding CENTERRE BACK ⁄301.65" CM
volume to the side seam NECK POINT 3⁄01.65" CM CENTRERE FRONT
NECK POINT
• From the center front neck point 3⁄01.65" CM
measure down 3⁄4in and from the front 23⁄4C" M 23 ⁄4C" M 23⁄4"CM
high point shoulder measure in 3⁄16in;
measure in 3⁄16in from the back high BACK NEW FRONT
point shoulder. Using the basic upper SSHHOOUULLDDEERR BNAECWK SHOULDDEERR
body sloper as a template draw in the PTOIPINT PBITACCHK PTOIPINT
new front and back necklines. PNOOINTCT H
CHEST LEINVEEL
• From the front and back shoulder tips 31.35⁄8"CM NNFRPPNFOEROIOWETTOWNCICNNTHHTT
measure up 3⁄16in and out 3⁄4in over the
armhole and find and mark the new 23⁄4C" M
shoulder tips.
3.51C3⁄8M"
• Open up the side seam by adding in
3⁄4in between the front and back body CENTERER BACK BACK FRONT
panels and repositioning. SIDE SEAMMASTER MAASSTTEERR
SIDE SEAM
• From the chest level square down 13⁄8in PLAN PLAN
on each side and, starting from the GRAINLLIINNEE
underarm / side seam corner, redraw CENTERRE FRONT
the new armhole shape using the basic
upper body slopers as a template up to WAISTLINE
the new shoulder tips. Draw in the new
notch positions. HEMLINE
0.5 CM CENTRE FRONT BACK SHHIGOHUPLDOEINRT FCREONNTRTE FRONT
0.5 CM SHOULDER NSHECOKULPDOEINRT HSHIGOHUPLODEINRT
NECK POINT SNHEOCKULPDOEINRT
0.5 CM
2 CM 2 CM CENTRERE BACK
NECK POINT
CENTRE FRONT CENTRERE FRONT
NECK POINT NECK POINT
DER NEW FRONT 2 CM BBAACCKK FRONT
5 CM BACK SHOULDER SSHHOOUULLDDEERR NEW SHOULDDEERR
PITCH POINT PTOIPINT NBAECWK PTOIPINT
POINT BPAITCCKH
step 3 NPOOITNCTH
NEW
Extending and shaping the hem NFNNPPFROEROIEOWTTOWICCNNNHTHTT
PFRITOCNHTand shaping the side seam
POINT
2 CM • Extend the center front, side seam, CHEST LIENVEEL
3a.5nCdMcenter back lines down 43⁄8in
from the hemline and square across to
MFARcSOrTNeETaRte a new hemline.
• PTLoANshape the hemline measure 13⁄16in
SIDE SEAM CENTERRE BACK BACK FFRROONT
SIDE SEAM OLD SIDE SEAMMASTER MASTER
OLD SIDE SEAM
GRAIN LINE PLAN PPLLAAN
CENTRE FRONT GRAINLLIINNEE
up the side seam and blend back CENTERRE FRONT
toward the center front and center
back using a French curve.
• To develop the side seam shaping, at WAISTLINE
the hemline measure 3⁄8in into the
front body and connect this point
back to the new underarm / side seam
corner with a straight line. Repeat
these steps for the back by measuring
3⁄8in into the back body. HEMLINE
11 C4M3⁄8"
1 CM3⁄8" 13⁄8C" M 1413⁄8C" M
313⁄C16"M ANORAK 207
"13⁄16 SSHHSSOOEEUUAALLMMDDEERR FRONT FRONT SHHIGOHUPLDOEINRT
BACK HIGH SHOULDER SNHECOKULPDOEINRT
SPHOOINUTLDER TIP "13⁄16
13⁄136"CM
NSHECOKULDER BACK 3 C1M3⁄16"
POINT SHOULDER
TPIOPINT
step 4 CENTERER BACK CHEST LIENVEEL FRONT MASTER
Repositioning the shoulder seam NEW SIDE SEAMBACK MASTERPPLLAANN
NEW SIDE SEAMPLAN
• From the front high point shoulder measure 13⁄16in down the
front neck curve and 13⁄16in down the armhole from the front GRAINLILINNEEWAISTLINE
shoulder tip and draw in the new shoulder seam. Cut and CENTERER FRONT
remove this shape from the front body panel.
• To add the shape onto the back body panel, from the back
high point shoulder and the back shoulder tip measure up
13⁄16in and connect these points with a straight line from the
back high point shoulder, curving it down slightly to the new
shoulder tip.
NEW HEMLINE
step 5
Adding volume to the front
KCAB KCAB ERCTNENECTER
REDLUOHFRSONT FKRCOANBT
• TraceRoEfDfLUtKhOCeHENSfront body panel onto NKCECENK
a new pieTcNeIOoPf paper. VEoRluTNmECe will be KCEHNIGH POINT TPNOIOINPT
padatdteedrnbypMiCceuc4ettsinogpaenndtosprerTKKedNCCaIeOEAdfNPBiinneg the TNIOSHPOULDER
the shape.
OSSRHEIOGAUIMNLADLER SHOSUELADMER 1M5⁄C8" 4
• From the side seam squMaCre4 in 31⁄2in at
two points and from the hemline draw M15C⁄8"4
a 133⁄4inREvTeSrAtMicKaClAliBne passing through
the points.NCAoLPntinue to measure in a FRONT MASTER FRREOTNSTAMAKSCTAEBR
further 4in and from the hem draw RETSPALMANKCAB PNLAALNP
a 153⁄4in vertical line.
NALP GRAINLINE
• Measure 2in down the side seam from
the underarm / side seam corner and UNDERARM GRAINLINE
from here draw an angled line to the / SIDE SEAM
top of the 153⁄4in vertical line. CORNER
• Measure down a further 21⁄2in andENIL NIARG MC2"5 ENIL NIARG ENIL NIARG MC 5
connect this point with an angled line MC251⁄.26" MC 5.6
to the top of the 133⁄4in vertical line.
M31C⁄2"9 MC4"01
• From the hemline cut up each line and
out to the side seam, leaving the shape SIDE SEAM
connected by a fraction of an inch. 133⁄4"
153⁄4"
• Starting from the center front open MC 04
each panel out 2in at the hem. MC 53
• Redraw the new hemline with a MC319⁄2" MC40"1 M2C" 5
gradual curve back toward the center
front, removing the overhanging MC2"5
MC 5 panel corMnCe5rs.
208 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 6
Front pattern and developing the front neck facing, patch pocket bag, and hem WIDTH
• Trace off the front onto a new piece of paper and, following • From the bottom of the rectangle measure down 15⁄8in along
the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape. the center front and then square out 15⁄8in right and left; this
You will now develop the front neck facing and patch pocket is the width of your facing. Connect these points back up to
on top of this pattern. meet the curved lines drawn previously and round off all
the corners.
• The front neck facing will strengthen the zipper insertion.
From the front high point shoulders measure 15⁄8in down • To develop the pocket bag measure 23⁄8in down from the
each shoulder seam and draw a curved line down toward the bottom of the facing shape. From this point square out
center front following the shape of the neckline. 61⁄4in left and right. Measure 125⁄8in down both sides to
create a square.
• From the center front neck point measure out 3⁄16in on
both sides along the neckline. From these points create • Measure 13⁄16in up along the length of the hemline to
a rectangle 3⁄8in wide by 43⁄4in long; this will be cut later to create a channel to take the elastic for a gathered finish.
allow the zipper to be sewn in.
415C⁄8"M 14 5C⁄8"M
3⁄18"CM
ZIPPER LENGHTHT
4132⁄4"CM
415⁄8C"M
145C⁄8"M 623C⁄8"M
FRONT BODY 161C⁄4"M
CUT 1 SELF
3212C5M⁄8" GRAINLLIINNEE 1325C⁄8"M
3 1C3⁄1M6" 1661C⁄4"M 133 ⁄1C6"M
HEM STITCH LINE FOR ELASTICATED GATHERING
ANORAK 209
step 7
Front neck facing pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the neck
facing pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on the neckline
and shoulders only.
FRONT NECK FACING
CUT 1 SELF
GRAINLLIINNEE
FRONT NECK FACING
CUT 1 SELF
GRAIN LINE
step 8 1 CM 1 CM
Front hem FACING pattern 1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the hem 1 CM FRONT HEM FACING GL CUT 1 SELF
facing pattern, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
1 C3⁄M8" 3⁄18"CM 31 ⁄8"CM 13 ⁄8C" M
1 C3⁄8M" 13 ⁄8C" M
1 C3⁄8"M FRONT HEM FACING GL CUT 1 SELF 1 3C ⁄8M"
210 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 9 POPCO1KC32K2EE5C⁄TT8M"TTOOP P
Developing the pocket bag with mitered corners
and zipper opening 14 5C⁄8M" 13 C5M" 513"CM 41C5⁄8M" TOP FRO
ZIPPZIPEPREROOPPEENNINIGNG CUT 1 SE
• Trace off the 125⁄8in by 125⁄8in square from the front body, 1 CM1 CM 1 CM BOTTOM
indicating the center grainline. CUT 1 SE
3⁄8" POCKET
• The zipper opening will be inserted along a panel seam, GGRARINAILINNLEINE2181C"M MASTER
which is created by measuring down 15⁄8in from each top POCKPELTAMNASTER
corner and squaring across. To create the zipper opening 3⁄8"
draw a rectangle 10in by 3⁄8in, centered on the panel seam. PLAN
1 CM
• To develop the mitered corners that will give the pocket a 2181C"M
bellows effect, square out 3⁄8in from the bottom corners and
connect to the top corners to give a new angled side. From 3⁄8" 41C5M⁄8" FFOOLLDD 145C⁄8M" 3⁄8"
the new angled side measure in 15⁄8in along the bottom line 1.95⁄1C6"M 41C5⁄M8" POCPKOECKTETBBOOTTTTOOMM 145C⁄8M" 19.⁄516C"M
and mark, and from this point square down 15⁄8in and mark.
Repeat on the other side. Join the lower points on each side 1.95⁄1C6"M 1.95⁄1C6"M
with a straight line to create a new pocket bottom line. Name
the old bottom line fold. Continue to measure 9⁄16in down the
angled side and mark. Measure 9⁄16in out from the new pocket
bottom line and mark. Join these two points back to the point
you marked on the original pocket bottom line (now the fold
line). Repeat on the other side.
POCKET TOP
32 CM
4 CM CTOUPTPT1FOORSOEPCNLKFTFPERATOTCNBHTAPOGCKET CUT 1 SELF
1 CM
4 CM 1 CM 13 CM 13 CM CBPBUOOOTTTCT1OTSKMEOELFFMRTOBNFTARPGOATNCTH POCKET
GRAIN LINE CUT 1 SELF
1 CM ZIPPER OPENING
1 CM
GRAINLGIRANINE LINE GGLL
step 10
Bottom and top pocket bag patterns
POCKET MASTER
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off thPeLANbottom
pocket bag pattern.
• Following the instru28cCMtions on page 50, trace off the top 28 CM
pocket bag pattern.
1.5 CM 4 CM FOLD 4 CM 1.5 CM
4 CM POCKET BOTTOM 4 CM
FFOOLLDD
1.5 CM 1.5 CM
step 11 13C8M⁄ " 1322 C5M⁄8" 13C8M⁄ "
Pocket flap pattern
⁄ "31 8CM POCKET FLAPPOCKET FLAP GGRAIRN LIAINENLINE FOLDFOLD LINE ⁄ "31 C8M
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 6 ⁄ "116 C4M 6 ⁄ "161CM4
125⁄8in long by 61⁄4in wide to create a rectangular-shaped CUT 1 SELF
pocket flap.
CUT 1 SELF
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the FOLDFOLD LINE
center, and label it fold.
⁄ " ⁄ "31 8CM 31 C8M
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
318CM⁄ " 1322 C5M⁄8" 3⁄18CM"
ANORAK 211
step 12
Adding volume to the back and creating the back neck facing
• Trace off the back body panel onto a new piece of paper. • Starting from the center back open each panel out 2in at
Volume will be added by cutting and spreading the pattern the hem.
pieces open to redefine the shape.
• Redraw the new hemline with a gradual curve back
• From the side seam square in 31⁄2in at two points and from toward the center back, removing the panel corners that
the hemline draw a 133⁄4in vertical line passing through the are overhanging.
points. Continue to measure in a further 4in and from the
hem draw a 153⁄4in vertical line. • To create the back neck facing, measure 15⁄8in down the
shoulder seam from the back high point shoulder and mark,
• From the underarm / side seam corner measure 2in down the and 15⁄8in down the center back from the center back neck
side seam and connect this point with an angled line to the point and mark. Join these points with a curved line following
top of the 153⁄4in vertical line. the shape of the neckline.
• Measure down a further 21⁄2in and connect this point with an
angled line to the top of the 133⁄4in vertical line.
• From the hemline cut up each line and out to the side seam,
leaving the shape connected by a fraction of an inch.
CENTERRE BACK BACK
BACK BSAHCOKUHLIDGEHR SHOULDER
NECK CBAECNKTRPSENPHOOEOINCINUTKTLDER NECK
POINT POINT
4 1C5M⁄8" NECK 41 5C⁄8"M SHSOEUA4LMCDMER
POINT
SSOEHAROMIGUILNDAELR SSOEHAROMIGUILNDAELR 4 CM
BACKPLMAANSTEBRACKPPLLMAAANNSTER
BACKPPLLMAAANNSTEBRACKPLMAANSTER
GRAIN LINE 5 CM UNDERARM / GRAINLLIINNEE
GRAINLLIINNEE SIDE SEAM GRAIN LINE
6.5 CM CORNER
52"CM
62.15⁄2"CM
10 CM 104"CM 93C1⁄2M"
9 CM
40 CM SIDE SEAM
3514503C⁄4C"MM
13353⁄4C"M
10 CM 1490"CCMM 391C⁄2"M 5 CM52C"M 5 CM
5 2C"M
212 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 13 BACK BODY CENTERER BACK
Back pattern and hem FACING CUT 1 SELF GRAINLILINNEE
• Trace off the back onto a separate BACK BODY
piece of paper and, following the CUT 1 SELF
instructions on page 50, create the
full pattern shape, adding a 3⁄8in CENTRE BACK
seam allowance on the neckline and GRAIN LINE
shoulders only.
3 CM HEM STITCH LINE FOR ELASTICATED GATHERING 3 CM
• Measure 13⁄16in up along the length
of the hemline to create a channel to HEM STITCH LINE FOR ELASSTTIICCAATED GATHERING 313 ⁄C16"M
take the elastic for a gathered finish.
1 CM
31C3⁄1M6" 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM GRAINGLINELBACK HEM FACINGCUT 1 SELF 1 CM
GL
step 14 BACK BODY
Back neck facing pattern CUT 1 SELF
CENTRE BACK C8M3 13C8M 13C8M⁄ " ⁄ "318CM
GRAIN LINE
⁄ " ⁄ "1
• Trace off the back neck facing onto a separate piece of paper BACK NECK FACING
and, following the instructions on page 50, create the full CUT 1 SELF
pattern shape, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on the neckline
and shoulders only.
1 CM BACK NECK FACING
CUT 1 SELF
3 CM 1 CM 3 CM
HEM STITCH LINE FO1RCEMLASTICATED GATHERING
1 CM BACK HEM FACING GL CUT 1 SELF
step 15
Back hem FACING pattern
• Trace off the back hem facing onto a separate piece of paper
and, following the instructions on page 50, create the full
pattern shape, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M 13 ⁄8C"M
13⁄C8"M 13 ⁄C8"M
13 ⁄C8"M
1 3⁄C8"M BACK HEM FACING GGLL CUT 1 SELF 13 ⁄C8"M
ANORAK 213
1 CM 1 CM
BACK HEM FACING
CUT 1 SELF
TCORPOOWFN
SLEPEOVIENTCAP
BACK FRONT
BPAICTKCH PFIRTOCHNT
NPOOTICNHT PNOOITNCTH
UNSDLEEREAVREM
step 16 POCINOTRNER BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE USNLEDEEVREARM NEW BACK
Sleeve master plan AT BICEPS PCOOIRNNTER PITCH POINT
LEVEL AT BICEPS
Start this development by selecting the LEVEL 1.75 CM
basic men’s sleeve sloper, or by drafting BUANCDKERUANRDMERBAARCKM SEAM
the basic sleeve sloper according to the BACK LLIINNEE
instructions on page 42. Cut a large CENTERER LINE
piece of drafting paper slightly longer FOREARM LINE
than the length of the shirt you want
to develop and transfer the shape of FURNODNETRAURNMDEFRRAORNTM SEAM
the sloper and all marks, labels, and 3 CM
instructions, following the directions ELBOW LINE
on page 48. For this design the sloper
will be altered to reflect the dropped
shoulder and lowered armhole.
HEMLINE 3 CM
CROWN 32 CM
POINT SLEEVE HEM
BACK FRONT 23⁄C4"M
PITCH PITCH
POINT POINT 32⁄4"CM 2 C3⁄M4"
NEWNBEAWCKBACK NNEEWWFFRROONNTT
PITCHNOPTOCINHT PNITOCTHCHPOINT
step 17
RARM Developing the sleeve master plan UNDERARM OLD UBINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE
T POINT NEW BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE
UNDERARM LINE
• Open up the master plan along the center line by 3⁄4in and 1.75 1C1⁄1M6" 111.⁄176"5 CM
UNDERARM BACK SEAM
BACK LINE
CENTRE LINE
FOREARM LINE
UNDERARM FRONT SEAM
3 13C⁄16M"
intersecting the biceps level. GRAINLILINNEE
313⁄C16"M
• From the top of the sleeve cap measure down 3⁄4in, the SLEEVE
CUT 1 PR
amount by which you dropped the shoulder on the upper
body sloper.
• From the center of the biceps level square down 11⁄16in, half
the amounEtLBbOyWwLhINiEch you dropped the armhole. Redraw the
new biceps level position, extending it by 13⁄16in each side.
• Using the basic sleeve sloper cap shape as a template,
redraw the new sleeve cap, indicating the lowered notches.
• Extend the sleeve hemline by 13⁄16in to each side and draw in
the new underarm seams by connecting the points back up
to each end of the new biceps level.
• Extend the sleeve hemline by 13⁄16in to each side, recreating
the opposite angle to the sleeve pitch, as the hem will be
folded up.
• When adapting any sleeve, check the amount of ease and
adjust if necessary before copying off the final pattern. 133⁄16C"M HCEUMFFLIHNEEMLINE 133⁄16C"M
2 3C⁄4"M
32 CM
SLEEVE HEM
214 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
2 CM
2 CM 2 CM
NEW BACK NEW FRONT
PITCH POINT PITCH POINT
step 18
UNDERARM Sleeve pattern OLD UNDERARM LINE
POINT 1.75 CM 1.75 CM
NEW UNDERARM LINE
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the new
UNDERARM FRONT SEAM GRAIN LINE
3 CMsleeve pattern. 3 CM SLEEVE
CUT 1 PR SELF
GRAINLLIINNEE
3 CM CUFF HEMLINE 3 CM CUFF FACING GATHERING LINE
2 CM FOLD
ANORAK 215
step 19 D 4172⁄8."5 CM C 6.521⁄2C"M
developing the hood 133⁄C16"M 14503C⁄4"M
51"3 CM 2 3⁄C4"M
• Starting at the bottom right side of your paper mark point PANEL A
(A); square left 97⁄8in (the length of the combined neck 9⁄11.65" CM ALIGNMENT 41 3⁄24"CM
measurement) and mark point (B). NOTCH
GRAINLLIINNEE CENTREER FRONT LINE
• From (A) square up 153⁄4in (half the head circumference) and PEAK
mark point (C). Complete the rectangular box and mark ALIGNMENTBACK PANEL LINE
point (D). NOTCH
HOOD MASTER
• From (B) square up 3in (the neck height) and then square in PPLLAANN
3in and label as center back line.
3⁄18"CM
• Taking half the front and back neck measurements added
together (97⁄8in) use a French curve to draw the neck shape 7.53"CM CENTRERE HALF NECK MEASUREME 391⁄2C"M
from (A) up to a finishing point on the center back line. BACK LINE
• From (A) measure up 31⁄2in and then out 3⁄8in and draw in a 7.5 3C"M
curved line.
• From (D) square down 5in and then across 9⁄16in and mark;
and again from (D) square across 47⁄8in and then down 13⁄16in
and mark.
• From (C) square down 21⁄2in and then out 3⁄4in and mark.
• Use these points to draw in your hood shape (determined by
the design, head size, neck opening, and usage).
• From the top of the hood opening, measure 43⁄4in down the
front opening and draw in the peak alignment notch.
NT
NT B 2957⁄8"CM
12.5 CM C
3 CM 6.5 CM
PANEL 2 CM
ALIGNMENT
NOTCH HOOD SIDE PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF
step 20 12 CM
Hood side panel pattern
BACK PANEL LINE
GRAIN LINE PEAKCENTRE FRONT LINE GRAINLLIINNEE
• Following the ANinLOIsGTtCNrHMuEcNtiTons on page 50, trace off the hood side
panel pattern. 40 CM
HOOD MASTER
PLAN
1 CM
ENTRE HALF NECK MEASUREME 9 CM
ACK LINE
7.5 CM
25 CM A
216 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
HEAD
HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT CENTER
FOR HEAD BACK
CIRCUMFERENCE NECK
POINT
NECK
HEIGHT CENTER FRONT
NECK POINT
CENTER SHOULDER
FRONT TIP
NECK
POINT
Taking measurements for the hood CB NECK
POINT
There are three measurements you need to create the
pattern for the hood: BACK NECK
1. The front and back neck measurements, taken from the PANEL HEIGHT
pattern—here they are 47⁄8in and 47⁄8in. If you are FRONT CF NECK
developing a hood with a center back panel remember to PANEL POINT
deduct the panel width from the final neck measurement CHEST LEVEL
as well as from the crown and front opening.
2. The front and back neck height, found by placing the
front pattern on top of the back pattern and aligning
them at the chest level, then measuring the distance
between the front and back neck heights—here it
is 3in.
3. The vertical circumference of the head, taken for
the hood opening by measuring around the face of the
model’s head, starting and finishing at the center
front neck point—here it is 311⁄2in.
ANORAK 217
step 21 HOHOOODD FFRRONOTNT
Developing the center back hood panel
BACK PANEBALCKLIPANNEEL LINE 3.5 13⁄8"CM
Measurements for the hood panel 3.5 13⁄8"CM
The center hood panel is 31⁄8in wide at 71⁄14"8.5 CM
the neckline and 23⁄4in wide at the hood
opening. To find the length, measure the NONTOCTCHH NNOTOCHTCH
back panel line on the hood master plan
to create the center panel—here it is 5.521C⁄8" M 5.251⁄8"CM
201⁄2in. The shape of the panel follows
the shape of the head, so it is narrower CCEENNTTERRBEACKB LIANCEK LINE 201⁄2"
at the back of the neck, wider at the GRAINLIGNERAIN LINE
crown, and then narrower again at the 52 CM
front of the head—following a similar
principle to the way the segment of an
orange is shaped.
• Draw a vertical grainline 201⁄2in long. At the top square
out 13⁄8in on each side and label the line hood front. At the
bottom measure out 15⁄8in on each side and draw a slightly
curved line reflecting the shape of the center back neck on
the upper body sloper; label as neck edge.
• From the center of the hood front square down 71⁄4in and
then square out 21⁄8in to each side: this is the widest point.
Notch for alignment.
• On both sides connect the hood front to the neck edge,
passing through the central notch alignment line; this shape
will become the final center back hood panel.
HOOD PANHELOOD PANEL
CUT 1 SELCFUT 1 SELF
BACK PBAANECL LKINPEANEL LINE
4 CM15⁄8" 415C⁄8" M
NECNEKCKEEDDGGE E
218 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 22 • Repeat for the other half of the rectangle.
Developing the hood peak pattern • Draw the peak curve by connecting the left and right 3⁄4in
• Start by drawing a rectangular box 31⁄2in wide by 9in long. marks with a curved line passing through the halfway point
Divide in half widthways at 41⁄2in. on the lower side of the rectangle.
• From this center point on one side of the rectangle measure
out 13⁄8in and mark; on the same side of the rectangle,
measure 3⁄4in down along its width and mark. Join these
points with a curved line.
PEAK ALIGNMENT NOTCH
PEAK ALIGNMENT NOTCH
PEAK PEAK
ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT
NOTCH NOTCH
31⁄8"8 CM 133⁄8."5 CM 133⁄8."5 CM 8 CM31⁄8"
2 C3M⁄4" HOOHDOOODPOEPNEINNIGNGEEDDGGEE HOHOODOOD POEPENNININGG EEDDGGEE 2 3C⁄4M"
PEAK
CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 1 STIFFING
GRAINLINE
GRAIN LINE
7 CM23⁄4" PEAK 7 CM23⁄4"
CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 1 STIFFING
ANORAK 219
pattern
Fitted denim jacket
This pattern includes CHEST LIENVEEL BPPBNOAITAOCICNCTKHTKCH
development of the following features: BACK MASTER FRONT
Creating front and side back panels NPIOTTCCHH
Creating a sewn-on front placket PLAN POINT
Reducing the length of the body
Creating a front yoke and combined front and back FRONT MASTER
PPLLAANN
shoulder panel CENTTREER BBAACCKK
Developing side welted pockets SIDE SEAAMM
Developing a front breast envelope pocket GRAINLLIINNEE
Developing a shaped convertible collar with hidden stand
Creating a waistband with tabs CENNTTREER FFRROONNTT
Developing a casual two-piece sleeve with two-piece cuff
WAISTLLIINNEE
step 1
Developing the master plan HEIPMLLEIVNEEL
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the jacket you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
220 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 2 BACK MASTER BACK FRONT MASTER CENTRERE
Developing the enlarged neck, reduced body PLAN BPAITCCKH PPLLAANN FRONT
length, front placket, and body panels NPOTINCTH NECK
POINT
• From the center front neck point measure down 3⁄4in, FRONT
and draw in the new neckline using the basic upper body FPRIOTCNHT 23⁄4C" M
sloper as a template. NPOOTICNHT
9 C31M⁄2" 415C⁄8"M
• From the new center front neck point measure down 181⁄2in,
and from this point square across to the center back to YOKE LINE
reduce the body length. 7 2C3M⁄4" 5.521C⁄8"M
• From the new center front neck point measure back 3⁄4in CHEST LIENVEEL 83C1⁄M8" 124.75⁄8"CM
along the new neckline and mark, and measure out 3⁄4in 7119⁄2"CM
and mark. Repeat this at the new hemline and connect these CENTERRE BACK
points with straight lines to create a rectangle. This is the GRAINLLIINNEE 41781C⁄2"M
15⁄8in-wide placket.
BACK PANEL LINE
• To create the three front panel shapes first create the front SIDE SSEEAAMM
yoke. From the front neckline measure 31⁄2in down the side
of the placket and from this point square across to the back FRONT PANEL LINE
armhole and make a mark. FRONT PANEL LINE
• From the placket measure 21⁄8in along the yoke line you have CENTERER FRONT
just drawn and from this point square down to meet the new
hemline. Continue to measure a further 23⁄4in along the yoke WAISTLINE
line and square down to the hemline again. These are the
three front panels. NEW HEMLINE 83C1⁄M8" 124.75⁄8"CM 72C3⁄4M" 5.251⁄C8"M 41C5⁄8M"
19 7C1⁄M2"
• To create the back panel measure 71⁄2in from the center back
along the hemline and mark; repeat at the chest level. Draw OLD HEMLINE
a vertical line through these points, at the chest level curving
in toward the armhole mark made earlier.
step 3 CENTRE BSPAHOBSTCOIIAHNPKUCOTLKUDLEDRER FRONT FRONT
Developing the shoulder panel, side welted BACK SHOULDDEERR SHOULDER
pocket, and breast envelope pocket NECK PTIOPINT NFERCOKNT HIGH POINT
POINTT PSOHIONUTLDER
• Measure 15⁄8in down the front high point shoulder and make
a mark. Measure 23⁄4in down the armhole from the front 4.153⁄C4"M 415C⁄8M"
shoulder tip and square across 4in into the front.
Join this line back up to the mark you made on the neckline. 273⁄C4"M 723C⁄4"M
• Measure 13⁄4in from the center back neck point along the 72 3C⁄4"M 7 2C3M⁄4"
neckline and make a mark. Measure 23⁄4in down the armhole
from the back shoulder tip and square across 51⁄2in into the 1541⁄2"CM 140"CM
back. Join this line back up to the mark you made on
the neckline. 62C3⁄8M" 623C⁄8"M
• From the center front measure in 13⁄16in along the yoke line YOKE LINE
to develop the breast envelope pocket. Continue to measure
a further 43⁄4in for the pocket width, and divide it in half. At SIDE SSEEAAMM 313⁄C16M"
each end measure down 51⁄2in and join across the bottom to 313⁄C16M"
create a rectangle. CHEST LLEINVEEL
1451⁄2C"M
• The side welted pocket is developed from the side seam into CENTERRE BBAACCKK BACK FRONT CENTTERRE FFRROONNTT
the front body. From the hemline square 13⁄16in up the side GRAINLILINNEE MASTER MMAASSTTER
seam, then measure up a further 51⁄2in and create the welt
shape by drawing a 51⁄2in by 3⁄4in rectangle. Continue to PLAN PLAN
measure up 13⁄16in along the side seam for the height of the
pocket bag, and make a mark. To develop the width of the 1243C⁄4"M
pocket bag measure 47⁄8in along the hemline from the side
seam and then square up 63⁄4in. Close the shape by joining 31C3⁄M16" 23⁄4C" M
this point to the mark on the side seam with an angled line.
POCKET
BAG
WAISSTTLLIINNEE 1541⁄2C"M
WELTT
1763⁄4C"M
NEW HEMMLLIINNEE 3 1C3⁄M16" 32⁄4"CM
124.57⁄8C" M
fitted denim jacket 221
step 4 BREAST ENVELOOPPEE
Developing the breast envelope pocket parts PPOOCCKKET MASTERPPLLAANN
• All the pocket parts are developed on top of each other and 31⁄8"CM
then traced off separately. The envelope breast pocket is 31⁄8"CM
stitched behind the front panels along the yoke. 41"0 CM
19.⁄516C" M YOKE LINE
• First draw the rectangular opening. From the center of 1.59⁄1C6"M
the top line of the pocket measure out 2in on each side. 31C3⁄M16" 145C⁄8"M
Measure down 9⁄16in at each end and join to create a 4in
by 9⁄16in rectangle. 1 C3⁄M8"
• Next draw the pocket flap, which will be stitched into the 381C⁄8"M
yoke seam and sit over the welt. From each end of the top PANEL LINE
pocket line square down 13⁄16in and mark; from the center of SIDE SSEEAAMM PANEL LINE 23⁄4C" M
the top line square down 15⁄8in and mark. Join the points at
the sides to the central mark to create the angled pitch of the 6 C2M3⁄8" CENTREER FRONNTT263⁄8C" M
flap point.
• To shape the angled envelope pocket bag square down 43⁄4in
from the center of the top pocket line and from this point
square out on each side to meet the side lines of the pocket
rectangle. According to the shape desired, on each side
draw an angled line up from a point along this line to the
top corner. Finish by connecting these points down to the
center line.
step 5 step 6
Front FOLDED placket pattern Developing the final combined shoulder panel
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
• In this design the shoulder panels are constructed by joining
front placket shape developed in Step 2. Double over the the front and back shoulder panels developed in Step 3.
rectangular shape and draw the fold line down the center. Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
shoulder pattern from the front sloper, then align the front
NECK EDGE shoulder seam with the back shoulder seam and trace off
the back shoulder pattern to create the final shoulder
yoke pattern.
FOLD
GRAINLILINNEE SLEEVE LINESLEEVE LINE SHOULDER YOKESHOULDER PANEL NECBKAECKDGE
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
NECKBEADCGKE
SHOULDER LINE
FRONT FPLOLADCEKDETPLACKET SLEEVE LINESLEEVE LINE GRAIN LINE NEFCRKOENDTGE NEFCRKOENDTGE
CUT 1 PR SELF
GRAINLINE
222 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
BACK BODY GRAIN LINE SIDE BACK
CUT 1 SELF BODY
CUT 1 PR SSEELLFF
BACK BODY
CUT 1 SSEELLFF SIDE BACK
BODY
step 7 GRAINLLIINNEE CUT 1 PR SELFGRAINLLIINNEE
Back and side BACK body panel
patterns GRAIN LINE
• Trace off the back body panel onto a
new piece of paper and, following the
instructions on page 50, create the full
pattern shape.
• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the side back body pattern.
step 8 FRONT NECKLINE
Front yoke BODY panel pattern GRAINLLIINNEE FRONT NECK LI
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front NE
yoke pattern developed in Step 3, adding alignment notches
for the shoulder panel.
FFRROONNTT YYOOKKEE BBOODDYY PPAANNEELL
CUT 1 PR SELF
fitted denim jacket 223
SIDE BOTTOM POCKET BAG GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
14 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM ⁄ "3 81 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
2 CM
FOLD LINE 1 CM3⁄8" 2 CM3 4⁄ " 2 CM3⁄4" 1 CM
2 CM 1 CM3⁄8"
1 CM 5 ⁄ "1 214 CM
step 9 SIDE WELT POCKET ⁄ "1 3CM 8 2 CM
Side welted pocket CUT 1 PR SELF
comPONENT PATTERNS GRAIN LINE FOLDD LINELINE 1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, SIDE WELT SHAPE GRAIN LINE FOL 2 CM 1 CM SIDE BOTTOM POCKET BAG17 CM 1 CM 1 CM
trace off all the side welted pocket CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR POCKETING
parts developed in Step 3. 1 CM 1 CM
1 CM
• Start with the welt shape, doubling 5 ⁄ "14 CM1 2 12.5 CM
the width to create a 51⁄2in by 11⁄2in 14 CM 1 CM
rectangle. Mark the center fold line 1 CM SIDEGWELTRAPOCKETINLINE
lengthways and add a 3⁄8in seam SIDE TOP POCKET BAG
allowance to all sides to create the CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR POCKETING GRAIN LINE
final pattern.
⁄ "3 81 CM ⁄ "1 3CM 8 2 CM 14 CM 2 CM
• The top pocket bag has the welt 3 CM 3 CM
rectangle removed and the bottom 3⁄1 CM8" 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
pocket bag is a full shape. Add a 3⁄8in 3⁄2 CM4"
seam allowance to all sides to create 3⁄2 CM4" 3⁄8" 1 CM 1 CM
the final patterns. 3⁄1 CM8" 1 CM
1 CM
1 CM 14 CM 1 CM
1 CM 3⁄8" 3⁄8"1 CM 1 CM 1 CM GRAIN LINE
⁄2 13CMC8"M 2 CM ⁄31 C8"M
13⁄16" 2 CM SIDE WELT POCKET 1 CMGRAIN LINE 3⁄8"FOLD LINE 1 CM 3⁄8"
3 CM CUT 1 PR SELF
2 CM 14 CM ⁄13C8M"
SIDE TOP POCKET BAG 2 CM 1 CM 1 CM
⁄13C8M" CUT 1 PR POCKETING 63⁄4" 1 CM
1 CM ⁄1 3CM8"
1 CM SIDE BOTTOM POCKET BAG 1 CM
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
1 CM1 CM SIDE TOP POCKET BAG 1 CM SIDE BOTTOM POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING CUT 1 PR POCKETING
51⁄2" 14 CM
GRAINLINE 17 CM GRAINLINE
1 CM 3⁄8" 3⁄8" GRAIN LINE 1 CM
1 CM GRAIN LINE
⁄13 C8M"
3 CM 2 CM
1 CM 3 CM
2 CM 1 CM 1 CM ⁄13C8M"
13⁄16"
S1ID2.E5 TCOMP POCKET BAG 1 CM ⁄13C8M" ⁄1 C3M8"
⁄13 C8M" CUT 1 PR POCKETING
47⁄8" 1 CM3⁄8" 3⁄8"1 CM 3⁄8"
1 CM
1 CM
14 CM
step 10 1 CM 17 CM
Front body panel patterns GRAIN LINE
1 CM
• Following the instructions on page 1 CM 2 CM
50, trace off all the front body panel 3 CM
patterns developed in Step 3: the
center front panel, the middle front 1 CM
panel, and the side front panel.
1 CM 1 CM
12.5 CM
GRAIN LINE GRAIN LINE GGRRAIAINLNILNIENE POCPKOECTKETSTSITTCIHCHLINES PPOOCCKKETET POCKET
PSTOICTKCEHTLINES PSTOICTKCEHTLINES PSPSTOTIOICTCTKCKECHTEHLITLNIENSES STTIITTCCHHLILNIENSES STITCH LINES
GGRRAIAINLNILNIENE
POCKET STICH POCKET STICH
FRROONNTTATAGTTRATACIAHNCTHLOITNPLOEAPCLKAETCKET
GRAIN LINE GRAGIRNAILINLNIENE
WELT OPENING WELT OPENING WWEELLTTOPOEPNEINIGNG SSIIDDEEFFRRONOTNPTAPNEALNEL MMIIDDDDLE FFRROONNTTPAPNAENLEL CCEENNTTERREFRFORNOTNPTANPEALNEL CENTRE FRONT PANEL
SIDE FRONT PANEL SIDE FRONT PANEL CCUUTT11PPRRSESLEFLF CCUUTT 1 PRRSSEELLFF CCUUTT11PPRRSESLEFLF
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF MIDDLE FRONT PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF MIDDLE FRONT PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF
224 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 11 13C8M"⁄
Front breast envelope pocket 13C8"M⁄
COMPONENT PATTERNS
⁄13 C8M" 1 CM ⁄13C8M"
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the final
envelope pocket parts developed in Step 4. BREAST ENVELOPE GRAINLINEGRAIN LINE ⁄13C8M"
BPREOASCTKEENVTELOPE POCKET
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides to create the final 1 CM 1 CM
envelope pocket and flap patterns. CUT 1 PR SELF BREAST ENVELOPE POCKE
1 CM CUT 1 PR SELF
• Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the top and sides to create the CUT 1 PR SELF
final envelope pocket facing pattern.
⁄13C8M"
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM BREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FLAP 1 CM 3 ⁄8"
1 CM CUT 2 PR SELF 1 CM 3 ⁄8"
GRAIN LINE 3⁄8"
3⁄8"
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
13CM8"⁄ 1 C3M8"⁄ 1 CM
1 CM
⁄ "3 81 CM ⁄ "1 3CM8 1 CM
⁄ "3 18CM
BREAST ENVELOPEBREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FLAP BREAST ENVELOPE POCKET
POCCUKT 2EPRTSEFLFLAP CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 2 PR SELF
1 CM GRAINGRAILINEN 1 CM
1 CM LINE
1 CM
GRAIN LINE
⁄ "13CM8
1 CM 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
1 CM BREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FACING 1 CMGRAIN LINE 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM
1 CM CUT 1 PR SELF 1 CM
BREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FLAP
CUT 2 PR SELF
GRAIN LINE
1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
BREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FACING GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 PR SELF
3⁄8"
GRAINGRALINEIN
LINE
3⁄8"
1 CM 1 CM
⁄ "3 81 CM ⁄ "13CM8
BREAST ENVELOPEBREAST ENVELOPE POCKET FACING
POCKETCUT 1 PR SELF FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
fitted denim jacket 225
step 12
Developing the final waistband parts and tab
1 CM The waistband and tabSIDE SEAM • For the front waistband draw a rectangle 145⁄8in long by 31⁄4in
BACK PANEL LINE wide (15⁄8in doubled for the folded band). Indicate the panel
Take the measurements of the hemline lines with notches for alignment. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance
for the front and back body panels from on all sides to create the final pattern.
the master plan in Step 2, including the
placket width. The denim jacket in this • For the back waistband draw a rectangle 15in long by 31⁄4in
design has a split waistband 15⁄8in in wide (15⁄8in doubled for the folded band). Indicate the center
width, with a tab inserted at the side back with an alignment notch at 71⁄2in (half the waistband
back panel seam. The tab is developed on length). Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides to create the
top of the front waistband for proportion final pattern.
and then removed for the final pattern.
• For the waistband tab construct a rectangle 23⁄8in long by
1 CM 13⁄16in wide. At one end measure back 3⁄8in at the sides and
join these points to a center point to create an angled
1 CM 1 CM point. Add a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides to create
CEMENT 4 CM the final pattern.
1 CM 6 CM 1 CM FRONT WAISTBAND 31⁄8"CM FOLD GRAIN LINE CENTRE FRONT 4 CM
3 CMCUT 1 PR SELF BBACAKCPKANPELALINNEEL LINE
SISDIEDSEEASMEAM 1 CM
1 CM 37 CM 1 CM
3⁄18"CM
1 CM 1 C3M⁄8" 13⁄8C" M
1 CM 145⁄8C" M
1 CM 1 CM 133⁄16"CM CCEENNTTERREFRFORNTONT 145⁄8C" M
13⁄8C" M
GRAIN LINE TWCAUABTIS2PTTPBLARAABNCSPDELEATLAFMCBEEMNENTT
1 CM 1 CM 6 2C3⁄8"M 1 3C⁄8"M FRONFRTONWTAWIASISTTBBAANNDD FFOOLLDD GGRARINALIINNELINE
1 CM 1 CM CUT C1UPT R1 PRSESELLFF
1 CM3⁄8"
31⁄8"CM 1 C3⁄8M" 1435⁄78" CM 1 C3⁄8M"
381C5"M 1 CM SIDE SEAM 31⁄8"CM
BACK PANEL LINE
1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8C" M
1 CM CB CB 14 5C⁄8M"
1 CM BACK WAISTBAND GRAINLLIINNEE 1 CM FOLD
CUT 1 SELF TAB PLACEMENT
1 CM 1 CM 14F5RC⁄8OM" NT WAISTBAND CENTRE FRONT
1 CM GRAIN LINE 3 CM
1 C3⁄M8" CUT 1 PR SELF
6 CM FOLD GRAIN LINE
13⁄C8"M
1 3C⁄8"M 381C5"M 1 CM 1 C3⁄8M"
1 CM 37 CM
13⁄8C"M 3⁄8"
3⁄8"
1 C3⁄8M"
GRAGINRLAININE LINE WAISTBAND TAB
CUT 2 PR SELF
1 C3⁄8M"
1 CM 3⁄8"
1 CM
3⁄8"
3⁄8"
38 CM
1 CM
BACK WAISTBAND 1 CM
CUT 1 SELF
CB CB
226 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear GRAIN LINE
1 CM
CENTRE BACK NECK step 13
Developing the shaped convertible collar with hidden stand
STAND MASTER Measuring half the neck from the masteTOrPpCOlaLPLnLAARNMASTER • Starting in the center of the piece of paper make a mark to
PLAN We will develop half the collar and indicate the bottom of the center back and label it (A). From
stand before creating the full collar (A) draw a 10in horizontal line and mark (B) at the end.
and stand. By taking measurements from
the master plan, which is drawn in half, • From (A) measure out 33⁄8in (the width of the half back neck)
you will be measuring half of the neck along the line and place a notch. Name it the shoulder notch.
measurement.
• On the master plan in Step 2 measure • From (A) square up 13⁄16in and mark (G); continue up 2in and
mark (D).
the length of the back neck, in this
case 33⁄8in, and the front neck from • From (D) square out 10in and mark (E) at the end.
the shoulder tip down past the center • To give the collar shape, measure up 3⁄8in from (B) and mark
front line to the point at which the
placket finishes, in this case 63⁄4in. (F). Join this point back with a slightly curved line measuring
• Add these two measurements together 33⁄8in to (C).
to give half the neck measurement, in • From (E) square up 3⁄8in and out 3⁄8in and from these points
this case 10in. run a straight line back down to (F) and back along to blend
in with the top line toward (D). Then continue each of these
NECK EDGE lines up from the 3⁄8in mark until they intersect. This is the
collar point.
• Develop the hidden stand shape by drawing a curved line out
from (G) down to meet (C).
• Trace the master plan onto a separate piece of paper and cut
out the stand. Divide the stand length into four equal parts
C and draw vertical cut lines.
• Remove the top collar shape from the development by
tracing onto a separate piece of paper. Trace the cut lines
across from the stand.
D COLLAR1 3C⁄8M" 13⁄C8"M
POINT
5 C2M" TTOPP COOLLLLAARR C EE
MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN 1673⁄4C" M
G F
31C3⁄M16" STAND MASTER
PLAN 13⁄8C" M
A 83.35⁄8"CM
B
CENTRE BACK NECK 2150."5 CM
TOP COLLAR MASTER
PLAN
CENTREER BACK NNEECCKK TOP COLLAR MASTER
PPLLAN
CENTER SSTTAANNDPLPDMAALNMSATAENRSTER
BCEANTCRKE BNAECKCNKECK C
A
NNEECCKKEDEGDE GE
fitted denim jacket 227
D CM
step 14 0.9 CM the c0o.4nCMvertible0.4cCoM llar and0.4 CsMtand
Adding
shaping to
CENTRE BACK NECK
• Cut down the vertical lines on the top collar shape, leavingREMOVE • Cut down the vertical lines on the stand shape, leaving them
them attached at the bottom by a fraction of an inch. attached at the bottom by a fraction of an inch. Overlap the
Starting from the center back open out each line by 3⁄16in,NEW CENTRE BACK sections along the top edge moving them by 1⁄8in toward the
curving down the top collar. From the center back neck center bPTaOLAPcNCkO;LtLhARisMAwSTilElRbring up the neckline.
remove 3⁄8in, the width lost when closing up the stand.
0.39⁄8"CM 0.34⁄16C" M 0.43⁄1C6"M
CENTERER BACK NECK 0.43⁄1C6"M
REMOVE
NEW CENTERER BACK
TOP COLLAR MMAASSTTEERR
PLAN
0.31⁄8C" M
0.31⁄8C" M 0.31⁄C8"M
STAND MASTER
CCEENNTTERRE BACK NECK PLAN
NECK EDGE
step 15 0.3 CM
Collar stand pattern
0.3 CM 0.3 CM
• Trace off the collar stand onto a nSTeAwNDpMiAeScTEeR of paper and,CENTRE BACK NECK
following the instructions on pagPeLA5N0, create the full pattern
shape, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
NECK EDGE
138C"M⁄ TAOTLIAPGOLCINPOMGLELCNNATORMLELNATR TATOLAIPOGLICNPOMGLECLNNATORMLELNATR
3⁄8"
3⁄8"
1 CM 1 CM
COLLCAROSLTALNADR STAND GGLL ⁄13C8M"
CUT 1CPUR STEL1F PR SELF
FRONFNRETOCKYNTNOYOKOTKCEEH FRONFNTREOCYKNTNOYOKOTKECEH
NECK NOTCH NECK NOTCH
1 CM GRAIN LINE 1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
TOP COLLAR
CUT 1 PR SELF
228 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
TOP COLLAR TOP COLLAR
ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT
1 CM 1 CM
1 CMstep 16 1 CM
COLLAR STAND
GL
TOP Collar patteCUrT 1nPR SELF
FRONT YOKE FRONT YOKE
• Trace off the top collar onto a new piece of paper and,NECK NOTCH NECK NOTCH
following the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern
shape, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides.
31⁄8"CM GGRRAIAINNLILINNEE 31⁄8"CM
1 3C⁄M8" TOOPPCCOOLLALAR R 13⁄8C" M
1 3C⁄M8" CUUTT11PPRRSESLEFLF 13⁄8C"M
1 3C⁄8M" 1 3⁄C8"M
step 17 to the yoke line and on the back master plan from the back
Developing the sleeve master plan shoulder tip to the back panel line. In this case the combined
yoke measurement from the front yoke line to the back panel
Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve line is 105⁄8in and the remainder of the armhole measures
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the 91⁄2in. Transfer these measurements to the sleeve by
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper measuring down the front and back armhole of the
slightly longer than the length of the sleeve you want to sleeve from the shoulder tip and marking the seam
develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks, panel alignment notches.
labels, and instructions, following the directions on page 48.
The design illustrated has a two-piece sleeve. 2710C5⁄M8"
Casual two-piece sleeve SEAM SEAM
The two-piece sleeve shown here is for PANEL PANEL
a casual jacket that retains the sleeve ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT
cap shape of the basic sleeve sloper,
unlike the tailored two-piece sleeve UPONDINSCETLORERAENRVEMER BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE UPSCONLOEDIRNEENTVREEARRM
that has a padded sleeve cap. The AT BICEPS AT BICEPS
starting point is the basic sleeve LEVEL BUANCDKERUANRDMERBAARCKM SEAM LEVEL
sloper from which two panels—the top BACK LLIINNEE
sleeve and undersleeve—are created. 61 C2M4"
CENTERRE LINE
For this two-piece sleeve we are going to FRONT LILINNEE
separate the under- and top sleeve panels FURNODENTRAURNMDEFRAORNTM SEAMM
so that the seams align with the points ELBOW LINE
at which the side back and front yoke LEVEL
seams meet the armhole.
• Shorten the sleeve to allow for the addition of the cuff. NEW HEMLINE
From the sleeve hemline measure up 31⁄2in on each side and 1325C⁄8"M
square across to create the new hemline. 931⁄C2"M
931⁄C2"M
• To find the position at which to separate the top sleeve 931⁄C2"M
and undersleeve panels, measure the armhole on the front
master plan created in Step 2 from the front shoulder tip OLD HEMLINE
fitted denim jacket 229
27 CM
step 18 SEAM
PANEL
Starting to develop thAeLIGtNwMEoN-Tpiece sleeve SEAM PANEL
MENT AOLNASOIGELNBIAGNOBMNOMDMPDEAYEYNNNETTL SSLLEEEVEEVE SAOSAOLENIAELGNBMIANOGBMPMDNAOEYNMNPDETAEYLNNETL
MPPMLALAASANSTNETRER
• Divide the width of the new biceps level into four and
mark. From these points square up to the same level as the BUICNEDPES RLEAVRELM LINE
shoulder tip and down to the sleeve hemline to divide the BUANCKDUENRDAERRAMRMBSAECAKM SEAM
BACK LINEsleeve into fUoNuDrEsReAcRtMioLnINsEwidthways. LabUPeONlDINtEhTReAnReMw lines back BBAACKC LKINLEINE
CENTRE LINEline, center line, and front line to recreate the frame of the CCEENTNETRRLIENLEINE
FRONT LINEoriginal sleeve sloper. FFRROONTNLITNELINE
UNDERARM FRONT SEAM
• On the back underarm seam, mark (A) where it intersects the FURNONDTEURNADERRMARFMRSOEANMT SEAM
elbow level and (B) where it intersects the new hemline. 11 NNEEWWEELBLOBWOLWEVELLINE
AA OOLLDDEELBLOBWOLWEVELLINE DD
• On the front line, mark (C) where it intersects the new 1 C3M⁄8"
hemline and (D) where it intersects the elbow level.
133⁄16"CM
• Mark (1) where the elbow level intersects the back line. The
EsLqBuOaWreLINcrEeated by points (A), (B), (C), and (D) will now be BB
pivoted counterclockwise from (1) on the elbow level by 13⁄16in, NNEEWWHEHMELMINELINE
measured from the center line at the hem. Do this by copying
the square onto a separate piece of paper to pivot and draw CC
in the new position. OOLLDDHEHMELMINLEINE
• Square down from the back seam panel alignment notch. 2710C5⁄8M"
Trace off the triangular shape between the sleeve cap and 41C5⁄8M"
the biceps level. Flip this shape over and position it so that
theNbEaWcHkEcMoLrInNEer of the sleeve at biceps level aligns at the 249 1⁄C2" M
center line along the biceps level. Copy the shape over.
Repeat from the front seam panel alignment notch.
9 CM
9 CM
9 CM
OLD HEMLINE
32 CM
step 19
Developing the top and undersleeve shapes
SAOELNIAGBMNOMPDAEY•NN ETTtLhoedfervoenltoupntdheertaorpmsPMSsleLLeAAEeaSENvmTVeEERufrnotniltysoeuaminSAOtseELNqIrAGBusMNeOaMPcDrAEetYNNtiEhTnLe3n1⁄e2iwn from
angled
hemline and from this point draw a line up to connect with UTTNOUODPNEPSRLDSSEELLEERVEEEEVSFEVLRFEEORENFOTVNOSETRESFAEEMOAARRMEMARSEMA SMEA1.M5 9⁄1C6"M
the front seam panel alignment notch.
• To create the top sleeve back seam continue to measure TOP SLBEAECVEK BTAOCKP SSELAEMEVE SEAM
5in along tUhNeDaERnAgRleMdLhINeEmline, which gives the hem facing. BBAACKCKUNUDENRDSELEREVSELSEEEAVME SEAM
UNDERARM BACK SEAM
BACK LINE FURNONDTEURNADERRMARFMRSOENATM SEAM
CENTRE LINE
FRONT LINE
UNDERARM FRONT SEAM
Using a curved line connect this point to the back seam panel BACKU UNNDDEERRAARRMMSEBAAMCK SEAM
alignment notch, passing through the elbow level. CCEENTNETRRLIENELINE
• To develop the undersleeve shape square in 15⁄8in from the
back seam panel alignment notch and from this point draw
down a curved line passing through the elbow level 3⁄4in in
from the top sleeve back seam (measured along the elbow
A • Flervoeml)1tchoenNfnrEeoWcntEtinLsBgeOatWomtLphINaeEnheelmalliignnem. ent notch measure in EELLBBOOWW LELVINELE 2 C3⁄4M"
1 CM 9⁄16in to ensOuLrDe EtLhBaOtWthLeINfEroDnt and back underarm seams
are aligned on the center line. (This method may differ 2 3C⁄4"M
depending on changes made to the basic sleeve sloper
following any lowering of the armhole.) Using a curved line
connect this point with the hemline, passing through the
elbow level 3⁄4in in from the top sleeve front seam (measured3 CM
B along the elbow level). NEW HEMLINE 5" 13 CM
13723⁄.44" CM
C 931⁄2C" M
OLD HEMLINE
230 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 20 step 21 step 22
Undersleeve pattern Top sleeve pattern Two-piece sleeve cuff PATTERN
• Following the instructions on page 50, • Following the instructions on page 50, • Construct a rectangle 101⁄4in long
trace off the final undersleeve pattern, trace off the final top sleeve pattern, by 31⁄4in (19⁄16in doubled in width
adding in alignment notches. adding in alignment notches. for a folded cuff). Add a 3⁄8in seam
allowance on all sides to create the
final pattern.
GRAIN LINE GRAIGNRLIAINNELLIINNEE 13C8M"⁄ 10261⁄C4"M 1 3CM8"⁄
GRAGIRNALIINNLEINE 1260C1M⁄4"
⁄31 C8"M TWO-PIECE GRGARIAINNLLIINNEE FFOOLLDD ⁄13C8M"
1 ⁄54 C8"M CSULFFEEVE CUFF 1 ⁄4 C5M8"
CCUUT 1TPR1SPELRF SELF
1 ⁄54 C8"M 1 ⁄4 C5M8"
⁄31 C8"M ⁄13C8M"
TOTPOSPLSELEEVEVEE 13C8M"⁄ 13 C8"M⁄
CUCTU1TP1RPRS SEELLFF
UNDER SLEEVE
CUT 1 PR SELF
UNDERUSNLDEEEVRESLEEVE
CUT 1 PCRUTS1ELPFR SELF
fitted denim jacket 231
pattern
Trench Coat
This pattern includes development of the following features: Fitting the trench coat
Shaping the body panels, moving the side seam to the back
Creating a double-breasted extension Traditionally, trench coats were produced
Extending the hemline as an outer garment to be worn over
Lowering the armhole suit jackets or dress coats. Chest
Creating a center back vent circumferences, neck openings, armholes,
Developing a storm flap and epaulet sleeve caps, and sleeve lengths were all
Developing front welted pockets made larger to accommodate the garment
Developing a shaped convertible collar with hidden stand underneath. Modern interpretations
combined with a more casual approach to
and lapel dress no longer dictate that trench coats
Developing a tailored two-piece sleeve with cuff vent should be oversized. When developing this
Developing a full body lining style, take into account the formality
or informality of the garment you are
designing, together with how it may
be worn.
232 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 1 BPPNBAIOAOTCCICTNKKCHTH
Developing the master plan FPFNRIRTOOOCTNCNHHTT
POINT
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page CCHHEESSTTLLEIVNEEL
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the coat you want to develop and transfer the shape CCEENTNETRRBEABCAKCK
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions following SIIDDEESSEEAAMM
the directions on page 48.
GGRARIANILINNLEINE
CCEENNTTERREFRFORNOTNT
BACBKACMKAMSATESTRER FROFRNOTNMTAMSATSETRER
PLAPNLAN PLPALNAN
WAAIISSTTLLININEE
HIEPMLELVINEEL
37".5 CM
step 2 CHEST LEVEL NNBAOENBPPCWAIOETTCWIKCCNKHTH NNEWEW
Lowering the armhole, extending the hemline, FRFORNOTNT
and developing the double-breasted extension CHEST LINE PPOINTICONHTTCH
12".5 CM
• From the chest level square down 1in on each side and 21."5 CM
starting from the new underarm / side seam corner redraw
the new armhole shape using the basic upper body slopers BACBKACMKAMSATSETERRCENTCEERNTBRAECBAKCKFFRROONNTTMAMSATESRTER
as a template. Transfer the back and front notches to their PLAPLNAN SIDE SESIADEM SEAMPPLALNAN
new positions on the lowered armhole. GGRRAIAIN LNILNIENE
• Extend the side seam, center front, and center back lines CCEENTNRTEEFRRFONRTONT
down vertically from the existing hemline to the required WWAIASITSLTINLEINE
length of the coat.
OOLLDDHHEMELMINLEINE
• Square across from the center front to the center back at the
new hemline.
• To develop the double-breasted extension, square out 3in
from the center front at the neckline.
• Repeat at the hemline.
• Connect the two points with a vertical line to create the
double-breasted extension.
HEHMELMINELINE
73.5"CM
Trench Coat 233
step 3
Developing the hemline facing, back vent, and front welted pocket position
Developing the hemline facing, back vent, and front • Add the hem allowance to the bottom of the pattern as
welted pocket position a horizontal rectangle measuring 15⁄8in in width.
Most trench coat styles have a back vent
incorporated into the design. The job of • To develop the vent measure 2in up the center back from
this vent is to allow freedom of movement the old hemline, and from this point square out 23⁄8in.
around the leg and seat area. Sitting
down in a closed garment will restrict • From the bottom of the hemline allowance, square out 23⁄8in.
body movement and feel uncomfortable. Join the two points with a vertical line.
The length of your design will generally
determine the length of the vent needed; • Now measure an additional 9⁄16in up the center back line
the longer the coat or jacket, the longer and mark.
the vent.
• Draw a line from this point down to the top of the vent
The vent extension has a diagonal line at extension at its outside edge, creating a diagonal line at the
the top so that the seams, when pressed, top of the vent.
are not as bulky as they would be if the
vent was square. A diagonal seam with • To develop the rectangular pocket opening, measure in 9in
less bulk creates an optical illusion, along the old hemline from the center front and then square
drawing your eye away from this detail. up 13⁄16in and mark; this will be the bottom right-hand corner
Take time to look at other examples of of the pocket opening. Create a rectangle 71⁄8in long by 3⁄4in
vents as you do your research. You will wide at an angle of your choice.
find that some are topstitched along
this diagonal seam and others are • Mark each corner of the pocket opening with a drill hole.
sewn internally.
BNAEBPNIACEWTCWCKKH
NOPOTICNTH NNEWEW
FFRRONOTNT
PPNIOTOICNHTTCH
CHEST CLHEEVSETLLINE
CENTCEERNTBRAECBKACK BACK MASTER SIDE SEAM FRONT MASTER CENTCEENRTFRER FORNOTNT
BACK MPALASNTER SIDE SEAM PLFARNONT MASTER
PLAN PLAN
WWAAIISSTTLILNIENE 32⁄4C"M
POPCOCKKEETT187O 1P⁄PC8E"MENINNIGNG GRAIGRNALIINNLIENE
91⁄.156C" M HEOMLLIDNEHEMLINE 31C3⁄M16"
25C" M 293"CM
6CM23⁄8"
15⁄8" 4CM
4CM
NNEEWWHEHMELMINLEINE
FFAACCININGG 15⁄8"
234 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 4 • From the side seam, measure 41⁄8in along the back armhole
Developing the shaping lines toward the back notch, and draw a vertical line down from
this point to the hemline.
Shaping the coat
To create a fitted coat you can introduce • From the intersection of this line with the waistline, measure
shaping into the sloper by moving the 13⁄8in toward the center back and 9⁄16in toward the side seam
side seam into the back panel. Once you and mark both points.
have extended the front panel you can
create two new style lines. Shaping is • Join these new points back up to the armhole with slightly
created by removing the internal volume curved lines.
between these lines. At the hemline you
can add a little flare to the design by • Label the line that defines the new back panel shape back
crossing the lines over, thus adding panel style line.
volume by extending the circumference
of the hem. • Label the line that defines the new front panel shape front
panel style line.
• Continue the back panel style line down in a graduated curve
until it meets the vertical line you first drew.
• At the hemline, measure out 23⁄4in from the vertical line you
first drew toward the center back and mark.
• Continue the front panel style line down in a graduated curve
until it meets this new point.
NNEEWW
BBAACCKK
NPPOIOTTICNCHTH NEW
PFNRIETFNOWCRNOHTOTCNTH
POINT
CHECHSETSTLELIVNEEL 10.5CM
BACBKAMCKAMSATSETRER
CCEENNTRTEEBRACBKACK 41⁄8" FFRROONPTNLPMTALANMASTANESRTER
PLAPNLAN
31.3⁄58C"M SSIIDDEESESAEMAM POPCOCKKEETT OPPEENINNIGNG
GRAGIRNAILINNLIENE
WAISTWLAINISETLINE ⁄19.156C"M
CENCTEENRTRFERFORONNTT
BACK PANEL STYLE LINE
OLD HOELMD HLEINMELINE FRONT PANEL STYLE LINE
BACK BVAECKNTVEENTXTEXETNESNISIOONN
HEMHLEINMELINE FFOOLLDD
273⁄4C"M FFAACCIINNGG
Trench Coat 235
step 5
Developing the shaped convertible collar with hidden stand and lapel
and positioning the front dart line
Break point and roll line • Square left 1in and mark point (B).
The point at which the front will turn • Join points (B) and (C) with a dotted line.
over to create a lapel is called the • From (B) square out 1in back toward the shoulder and mark
break point (BP) and the line that it
turns on is the roll line. The lower point (D).
down the front your BP is, the wider • From (D) square back into the shoulder, curving the line
an opening you will have around the
neck silhouette. slightly back toward the neckline and cutting off the high
point shoulder.
Collar measurements and lapel shape • Continue the straight line from (D) through (B), extending
To draft the lapel and shaped convertible it to the width you would like to make the collar, and mark
collar with hidden stand for a pattern point (E).
with a front neck measurement of 53⁄4in, • At a right angle from (E) draw out the collar shape
excluding the double breast extension, you require.
and a back neck measurement of 33⁄4in, • Mark a notch at the point where the top collar joins the
first locate the position on the pattern neckline and at the point where it meets the shoulder line.
where you want your collar to break on • To position the line of the front dart, measure 13⁄4in from the
the new front edge line of the body original side seam along the front armhole toward the front
section. To work out the shape and size notch. From here draw a straight line in toward the pocket,
of the lapel and collar, consider the finishing one-quarter of the way up from the bottom of the
proportion of your design and the length pocket opening. This is the line of the dart.
of the silhouette. It is always a good
idea to assess the shape of the lapel by B2.15" CM E
folding the paper back on the roll line. 2.5 C1"M A
Redraw and develop the shape until you D 393. ⁄54"CM
are satisfied. C
HIGSHHOPUOLDINERT
• To give the front of your lapel some shape, from the neckline SHNOEUCLKDPEORINT
square out 3⁄8in and square up 3⁄8in. Find the new front neck
point and join this point back to the neckline and down to 2.5 1C"M
the break point with slight curves to give the shaping for NNEECCKKLLININE E
the lapel. 13⁄8C"M
• From the high point shoulder continue the shoulder seam out NNEEWW 13⁄8C"M
1in and mark point (C). NBPBPAOIAOCTTCICNKCKHTH
NEW RROOLLLLPOPINOTINT
• From the break point on the front line draw a straight dotted FRONT BBRREEAAK KPOPINOTINT
line to (C). NEPWITCH
FRPOONINTT
• Continue this line beyond (C) for 33⁄4in (the length of the NOTCH
back neck measurement) and mark point (A).
CHCEHSESTTLLEINVEEL 4.5 CM
BACBKACMKAMSATSTEERR BACK PABNAECLKSPATNYELLESTLIYLNEELINE
FFRORNOTNPTANPEALNSTEYLLESLTINYELE LINEFFRROONNT MTAMSTAESRTER
PLPALNAN ORIGINOALRISIGIDENSAELASMIDE SEAM 13⁄4"PLPALNAN
POPCOCKKEETT OOPPEENININGNG
CCEENTNRTEEBRACBKACK WAIWSATISLTINLIENE GRAGIRNAILINNLIENE
CENCTEENRTRFERFORONNTT
OLD HEOMLDLHINEMELINE
BBAACCKKVEVNETNEXTTEENXTITOENNTION
HHEEMMLILNIENE FFOOLLDD
FFAACCIINNGG
236 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 6 • With an awl holding the pieces of paper down at the same
Development of the front dart shaping point, pivot the new pattern clockwise so that the top of the
dart line moves a distance of 13⁄16in to the left.
Rotating the pattern
Creating and opening a dart on the front • Trace along the dart line again, creating the second side of
panel will allow you to introduce shaping the dart, and continue to trace the rest of the panel shape.
that runs from under the arm toward the
front pocket, giving the trench coat a • After pivoting, the hemline will be pitched lower toward the
closer fitted silhouette. This dart is center back line. Blend the two lines together with a shallow
achieved by opening and rotating, or curve. Once the dart is closed this will bring the hemline back
pivoting, the pattern. up into a straight line.
• Trace off the shape of the front panel from the master plan step 7
onto a separate piece of paper. Front PANEL pattern
• To open the dart line at the armhole, on another piece of • Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
paper trace around the front panel starting from the end panel pattern.
of the dart line at the pocket opening, up to the top of the
dart line at the armhole and then continuing in a clockwise
direction until the point directly under the end of the dart on
the hemline.
• Make sure the two pieces of paper are aligned exactly, and at
the pocket end of the dart line place a drill hole through both
pieces of paper.
31C3M⁄16" CHECSHTELISNTE LEVEL FRONT PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF
FRONT PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF
FRONT PANEL
CUT 1 PR SELF
DDAARTRTLINLIE/NPE/OCPKEOTCKET3CMCHEST LINE
WAWISATISLTILNINEE DART LINE/ POCKET CENTRE FRONT POCKET OPENING GRAIN LINE
CCEENTNRTEEFRRFONRTONT PO PCOKCEKTETOOPPEENNIINNGG GRAIN LINE
CECNETNETRREBBAACCKK DDRRIILLLLHHOOLELE WAISTLINE GRAINLINE
OLD OHLEDMHLEIMNLEINE
DRILLHOLE
CENTRE BACK OLD HEMLINE
FACING FOLD
OLD HEMLINE OLD HEMLINE FACINFAGCING FFOOLLDD
OLD HEMLINE
Trench Coat 237
step 8
Developing the shaped convertible collar with hidden stand
The shaped convertible collar with hidden stand • Fold a piece of paper in half and, laying the fold on the center
In this design the trench coat collar back of the collar on the master plan, trace off the shape of
has a separate stand incorporated which the collar (including the notches). Label the center back.
allows the collar to turn over and sit This is the collar master plan and you will be developing
flat around the back of the neck. this in half.
COLLAR MASTER PLAN • The next step is to create the stand shape. Measure 1in up the
center back (the width of the collar stand). From this point
COLLAR DEVELOPMENT draw a curved line that ends where the roll line intersects the
neckline on the master plan. This ensures that the stand will
not be seen when the collar is turned down.
• Place a double notch along this new line.
CCEENTNRTEEBRACBKACK
2.15" CM SSTTAANNDDDEMVEALSOTPEMERNPT LAN
NECK NEEDCGK EEDLGIENLEINE
S SHHOOUULLDDEERR
NNOOTTCCHH
step 9
Collar stand pattern
• Trace off the collar stand pattern onto a new piece of paper
and, following the instructions on page 50, create the full
pattern shape.
COLLCAROLLAR CENTRE BACK NECKCOLLAR STAND COLLAR
AALINLGOITNNCMGHOENNTTMCEHNT CUT 1 PR SELF ACALOINLLGOILTNNACMGRHEONNTTMCEHNT
CENTERCUT 1 FUSE
COLLAR STAND BACK NECK GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE
CUT 1 PR SELF NECK EDGE LINE
CUT 1 FUSE
NECK EDGE LINE
SHOUSLHODULEDERR SHOULDER
NOT NCOHTCH NSHONOOTUTLCCDHEHR
238 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 10 • Trace off the half collar shape without the stand from the
Developing the collar using slash and spread collar development.
Slash and spread • Measure across the length of the half collar and draw lines to
In order to sit flat across the divide it into five equal sections.
shoulders, the outer edge of the collar
needs to be wider than the inside edge. • Cut down each line toward the stand, but do not cut right
You can use the slash and spread method through to the edge.
to increase the length of the outer edge
of the collar. • Transfer the measurements obtained from your muslin to
your paper pattern, and open out the lines on the pattern
Slash and spread is a technique that to the same distances as on the muslin.
allows you to introduce fullness or
volume to an area of a pattern by cutting • Redraw the collar, creating a smooth curve at the outer edge.
a line in the pattern and opening the two • You may find that the collar point is too square and you need
sides out at one end of the line only.
Once you have introduced the volume, to add some shaping according to the style of the design.
you can then trace off the new shape. Continuing the curve, measure out 3⁄4in from the edge of the
collar and draw a line back to the center front neck point.
CECENNTTERRE BBAACCKK COCLOLLARLADERVELOPMENT
MASTER PLAN
COLCLOLALRAR OOPPENEN OOPPENEN
ALI AGLINGMNEMENNTT
NOTNOCTHCH COLLAR DEVELOPMENT OOPPEENN
CENTCEENRTRBEABCAKCK
COLLAR OOPPEENN
MASTER PLAN
CENTER BACK OUTOEURTEERDEDGGEEOOFFCCOOLLLALRAR CCOOLLLLAARR
PPOOIINNTT
CENTRE BACK COLLAR POINT DEVELOPMENT
2 C3⁄4M"
COLLAR POINT MASTER PLAN
SSHHAAPIPNGING
CCEENNTRTEEFRROFNRTONNECTKNPEOCINKT POINT
Trench Coat 239
step 11 TOP CTCOUOPTLC1LOAPLRRLASRELF GRAIN LINE
TOP Collar pattern CUT 1CUPTR1 SFUESLEF
CUT 1 FUSE GRAINLINE
• Trace off the half collar pattern and,
following the instructions on page 50,
create the full pattern shape.
step 12 • From the high point shoulder measure 2in along the shoulder
Developing the front facing shape seam toward the armhole.
Front facing • Draw a straight line connecting these points from the
In this design make the front facing hemline up toward the shoulder seam, blending through
wider than the double-breasted extension the chest level to the marked point on the shoulder with
so that the button and buttonhole are cut a smooth curve.
and sewn through the main fabric, giving
them support and strength.
• Develop the front facing on the front panel pattern. 13 ⁄8C"M
• From the new front line measure in 33⁄4in along the chest 13 ⁄8C"M
level, and measure in 33⁄8in along the waistline, the old CCOOLLLALRANROTNCOHTCH
hemline, and the new hemline.
13⁄C8"M
13 ⁄C8"M
FNREFOCRNKOTPSONHITNOTHULIGDEHR POINT 13C⁄8M"
SHOULDER
13C⁄8M"
52C" M
CHECSHETSLTELIVNEEL step 13 CCEENTNRTEEFRRFONRTONT
Front facing pattern
393.⁄54"CM
• Following the instructions on page
FFRORNOTNPTANPEALNSTEYLLESLTINYELE LINEWWAAISISTTLLIINNEE 50, trace off the front facing shape to GGRRAIANI LNIILINENE
GRGARIAINNLILINNEEOOLLDDHHEMELMINLEINE create the final pattern, adding a 3⁄8in
seam allowance to all sides.
POCPKOECTKEOTPOEPENININNGG
FRFORNOTNTFFAACCIINNGGLILNIENE 383.5⁄8"CM FRONT FAFCIRNOGNT FACING SELF
CENTCEERNTFRER FORNOTNT 383.⁄58"CM FUSE
FRONFRTOLINTNLIENE
PR
PR
PPRRCCFSUEUULSTTFE11
1
1
CUT
CUT
FFOOLLDD
HEHMELMILNINEE
FFAACCININGG 1 3C⁄8M" 13C⁄8M"
13⁄8C"M
38.35⁄8C"M 13⁄C8"M
240 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 14 GRAINLINE
Back PANEL pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back
panel pattern.
GRAIN LIINE
BACK PANBEALCK PANEL
CUT 1 PR SCEULTF 1 PR SELF
FFOOLLDD
step 15
Developing the front welted pocket stand and bags
Pocket shape • To develop the shape for the welted pocket stand, which will
The pocket bag for this trench coat is be attached to the bottom stitch line during construction,
not rectangular like most patch pockets square out 2in from the bottom stitch line at each end and
but shaped like half a human kidney. connect the points. At the top end extend the line by 3⁄8in
The depth and width is determined by the and connect this point back to the bottom stitch line at an
opening you have drawn on your master angle. This will conceal the opening when sewn down.
plan and the internal space available to
position the pocket within the design. ⁄ "13C8M 1.5CM9⁄16"
133⁄C16M"
• Start by creating a separate master plan on a new piece of
paper. Trace round the rectangular pocket opening shape, HALFFWOELLDTHASLFFHOWLAEDLTP SEHAPE POCKETTOP SOTIPTTCEHPOLONIIPCNKBENESTCOCGTOUUITPTETTTLININC1ONEGHLMILISNTNEUINETDECR SHTITLCIHNLINEE GRAIN LINE
indicating the direction of the grainline next to it.
POCKET BAG
• Label the two long sides of the rectanglar box top stitch line MASTER PLAN
and the other bottom stitch line. The pocket and welt stand
shapes are developed from these lines. 3⁄8" POCKET BAG
1CM MASTER PLAN
• To develop the bag shape, square out 3⁄8in from the top stitch 5CM
line at each end and connect the points. Extend this line 9⁄16in 1.5CM9⁄16"
at each end. 2"
• Starting from a right angle at each end of this line, draw a GRAINLINE
half kidneylike shape that, once constructed, will hang below
the pocket opening.
• When drawing the pocket bag shape check that you do not
extend it too far forward so that it interferes with the facing
or button placements. This will now become your top pocket
bag shape.
Trench Coat 241
POCKET WELT
CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 1 PR FUSE
step 16 GRAINLINE
Pocket welt pattern
POCKET WELT GRAIN LINE
• The welt flap shape that you have just developed is only
a half pattern. Trace it off and, following the instructions CUT 1 PR SELF
on page 50, create the full pattern. CUT 1 PR FUSE
FOLDFOLD
step 17 BOTTTO UOMNPDESTRSOTSIPTTIISTTTITCCTHCCLHHIHNLIELNILEINNEE GRGRAIAINNLILINENE
Top pocket bag pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the pocket TOP POCKET BAG TOP POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING CUT 1 PR POCKETING
bag shape.
TOP S TTIOPTSTCITHCHLLIINENE BOTTO UMNDSERTISTTITCCHHLINLEINE 13C8M⁄ " GRGARIAINNLILINENEUNDER POCKET BAG
step 18 CUT 1 PR POCKETING
Under pocket bag pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the top 13⁄8CM" UNDER POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR POCKETING
pocket bag shape to create the under pocket bag pattern;
make sure you carry over the stitch lines. The under pocket
bag is smaller than the top pocket bag. To create the under
pocket bag pattern, measure up 3⁄8in from the understitch
line and draw a parallel line; this is the new edge of
the pattern.
242 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 19 • This is the storm flap master plan onto which you will
Storm flap and epaulet master plan develop the style lines.
Storm flap CHECSHETSLT ELIVNEEL
A design feature on this trench coat CENCTEENRTRBEABACCKK
style is the classic storm flap that
is associated with many outerwear BACKKNNECEKCKBAC
garments. The flap is sewn down to the
front chest and to the back, leaving the SSHHOOUULDLEDRESREASMEAM K
armhole open. Storm flaps are open to FFRROONNTTNENCECK
interpretation and can be designed in AARRMMHOHLOE LE
many different ways.
STOSTROMRMFFLLAAPP CCEENTNRTEEFRROFNTRONT
• Cut a piece of paper large enough to cover the front and MMAASSTETREPRLAN
back upper body panels. PLAN
• Draw a horizontal line through the middle of the paper. CHESCTHLIENEST LEVEL
• Place the front and back body panels together at the
shoulder, as you would if you were sewing them together,
and position the shoulders along the seam.
• Trace round the front and back upper body from the chest
level up, including the armhole.
step 20
Developing the storm flap and epaulet
• To develop the storm flap as a half pattern with the epaulet • To draft the epaulet draw a 51⁄2in line out from the shoulder
protruding from the shoulder, start from the high point seam, square down 2in toward the front chest level, and
shoulder, measure in 3⁄16in along the shoulder seam, then square back toward the armhole. Create the point at the end
square down 97⁄8in toward the chest level and center front. of the epaulet by measuring 3⁄4in back down both sides and
then joining these two points to a central point at the tip.
• From this point square across 31⁄2in to just below the chest
level and mark. From the front corner of the underarm and BBAACCK K 31 ⁄C8"M
side seam measure in 13⁄16in along the chest level and from
here square up 3⁄4in and mark. 13⁄16" 33 ⁄4"9.5 CM
31⁄8C"M
• Connect these two points with a curve to complete the lower 3 CMCHCELHSETEVLSIENTEL
front edge of the storm flap.
CCEFFENOOTNLLRTDEDEBRACBKACK
• To draft the side of the flap around the armhole, extend the
shoulder seam out 3⁄4in. Next measure in 3⁄8in from the back 13C⁄8M"
armhole along the chest level and then square up 3⁄8in and
mark. With a shallow curve, join this point to the end of the 30.516C"M⁄ SHNSHEIHGOCOKUHLUPDOPLEIONDRTIENRT
extended shoulder seam and the point at the outside edge
of the front of the flap. SHSOHOUULLDDEERRSSEAEMAM NECNKOEPOCPEEKNNIINNGG
32 ⁄4C"M
• To shape the lower edge of the back of the storm flap 51 ⁄2"14 CM STORM FLAP
first locate the position of the lower back point. To do this EEPPAAULUELTETET AARLIRMNHMEOLHEOLILNEE DEVELOPMENT
measure in 33⁄4in from the center back along the chest level
and square down 13⁄16in and mark. 52"CM 32 ⁄C4"M STORM FLAP 2957 ⁄8C"M
DEVELOPMENT CCEENTNRTEEFRROFNRTONT
• Then locate the apex of the curve on the center back by
measuring 3⁄8in up the center back line from the chest level 3⁄4" 2 CM
and mark.
31C3⁄M16" 31 ⁄2"9 CM CCHHEESTSLTINLEEVEL
• Join this point to the lower back point with a curve, FFRROONTNT
representing half of the curve across the center back. Draw
a shallow curve from the lower back point to the point at the
edge of the armhole curve.
Trench Coat 243
step 21 STORM FLAP
Storm flap pattern CUSTTO1RPMRFLSAEPLF
• Trace off the storm flap onto a new piece of paper and, CUT 1 PR SELF
following the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern
shape, indicating with notches the position of the epaulet.
2"5 CM PEOPSAIUPTEOLIPOSAEIUNTTLIOENTTE SSHHOOUULLDDEERRLINLEINE SHSOHUOULLDDEERR LLININEE EPEPPOAPSOUAILTSUEIOITLTNTEIEOTN
CENCETNETRREBBAACCKK
step 22 GRAGIRNAILINNLIENE
Epaulet pattern 5141⁄2C"M
EPAULET
• Following the instructions on page 50, CUTEP4ASUELELTFTE CUT 4 SELF
trace off the pattern for the epaulet.
GRGAIRNALIINNELINE
2 C3⁄M4"
step 23 • Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
Developing the two-piece tailored sleeve length of your sleeve or the arm length of your fit model.
Measurements required to develop the sleeve • Draw a 271⁄2in vertical line down the center and label it center
Measurements required to draft the sleeve: line; label the top of this line (1) and the bottom (2). This is
• Armhole 211⁄4in + 13⁄8in ease = 221⁄2in. the length of the sleeve.
(Take this measurement from the • From (1) measure down 71⁄4in (the sleeve cap height, or
basic upper body sloper.) one-third of the armhole measurement not including ease,
• Sleeve length to wrist = 271⁄2in. to which you can allow tolerance of plus or minus 3⁄16in) and
(Take this from the shoulder tip, label point (3).
running down the back of the elbow to
the wrist; extra length can be added • From (1) measure down 161⁄8in (the elbow length) and label
at this point to suit your design.) point (4).
• Top of sleeve cap to elbow length =
161⁄8in. • Divide the armhole measurement (221⁄2in) by 6 to give 33⁄4in
• Upper biceps circumference = 133⁄8in. and add 3⁄8in volume to give 41⁄8in. From (1) square out 41⁄8in
(Take this measurement from round the to the left and to the right and label these points (5) and (6).
upper arm; extra width “ease” can be
added for movement.) • From (2) measure out 41⁄8in to the left and to the right and
• Cuff measurement = 125⁄8in. (This label these points (7) and (8).
garment is taken from the basic
tapered sloper. As an overgarment • Connect all points, (5), (6), (7), (8), to form a rectangle.
there is no need to reduce the • Divide the sleeve cap height (71⁄4in) by 3 to give 23⁄8in.
cuff width.)
• Sleeve cap height = 71⁄4in. From (6) measure down 23⁄8in, make a mark, and label it back
notch. From the back notch square in 1in and mark point (A);
this is the top point of the back seam on the undersleeve.
• From (3) square out to the left to intersect the line from
(5) to (7) and mark point (B), and square out to the right to
intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (C). This is
the biceps level.
• From (B) measure out 1in and mark point (D), and measure
in 1in and mark point (E). From (C) measure in 3⁄8in and mark
point (F), and measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (G).
244 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
• To establish the front notch on the armhole divide the sleeve • From (7) measure up 3⁄4in and from this point measure out
cap height (71⁄4in) by 2 to give 35⁄8in, and subtract 3⁄4in to 3⁄4in and mark point (L); this is the top sleeve cuff point.
give 27⁄8in. This will ensure a rectangular shape to the sleeve Measure in 3⁄4in and mark point (M); this is the undersleeve
cap instead of the square shape that would occur if the cuff point.
sleeve cap were just divided in half. From (B) measure up
27⁄8in, make a mark, and label it front notch. • The cuff circumference is 125⁄8in. Divide this between the top
and undersleeve so that the top sleeve cuff width is 71⁄8in
• From (4) square out to the left to intersect the line from and the undersleeve is 51⁄2in. This allows the top sleeve seam
(5) to (7) and mark point (H), and square out to the right to to fall toward the back of the arm, slightly out of view.
intersect the line from (6) to (8) and mark point (I). This is
the elbow level. • From (L) draw a line 71⁄8in long to intersect the line from (7)
to (8) and mark point (N). From (M) draw a line 51⁄2in long to
• From (H) measure out 3⁄8in and mark point (J), and measure intersect the line from (7) to (8) also at point (N). These are
in 15⁄8in and mark point (K). the cuff hemlines.
5 104.61⁄8C" M 1 104.61⁄8C" M 6 • Draw in the top sleeve front seam by drawing a blended line
connecting the points from (L) through (J) to (D).
FRONT 1781.⁄45" CM 263.⁄18" CM2.5 C1"M GRAIN LINE
FPRIOTNCTH A • Draw in the undersleeve front seam by drawing a blended
NPOOTICNHT line connecting the points from (M) through (K) to (E).
BBAACCKK
277.⁄28"5 CM NPOITTCCHH • Using a French curve, draw in the top sleeve cap starting at
DD B E POINT (D) with a concave curve through the front notch where you
reverse the curve to a convex curve up to (1) and back down
4161⁄C8"M F to the back notch with a similar convex curve.
BUINCDEPESRALERVMELINE
C G • Measure the length of this line and compare it to the
3 measurement of the armhole on the front and back patterns.
2.5 C1"M FUNRDOENRTSSLLEEEEVEVEBABCAKCSKESAE1MA3⁄C8M"M Here the length should be 145⁄8in. Adjust the curves until the
2.5 C1"M TOPP SSLLEEEEVVEEBBAACCKKSESAE1AM3⁄MC8"M line is the correct measurement.
SSLLEEEEVVEE • Using a French curve, draw in the top of the undersleeve with
MMAASSTTEERR convex curve starting at (E) up to (A).
PPLAATNTERN
• Again, measure this line and adjust it until it is the same
271⁄2" measurement as the armhole on the front and backTOP SLEEVE FOREARM SEAM
patterns—in this case 81⁄4in.
• Draw in the back seam of the top sleeve with a blended line
from the back notch through points (G) to (I) and continue
down to (N).
• Draw in the back seam of the undersleeve with a blended line
from (A) through (F) to (I) and also continue with this seam
on the same line as the top sleeve down to (N).
H K EELLBBOOWWLLEIVNEEL
J 4
415C⁄8"M I
TOOPP SSLLEEEEVVEEFFROORNTEASREAMMSEAM UNDDEERRSLSLEEVEEVEFOFROERAERAMRSMESAEMAM CENNTTERRELILINNEE TOP SLEEVE
1 3C⁄8"M CUT 1 PR SELF
BOTTOM
SLEEVE
CUUNFDFERSLEEVE 1.5CM
TOP SLEEVE M PCOUINFFT POINT
CUFF POINTL 5114⁄2"CM
3⁄24"CM 32⁄4"CM N
3⁄24"CM 8
7 CUUFFFF71H1H8⁄8E"ECMMMLLININEESS 2 3 CM CUFF HEMLINE FOLD
FOLD 10 CM
FOLD
FACING
FOLD
3 CM
Trench Coat 245
step 24
Top sleeve pa5tte1r0.6nCM, fa1 cin10g.6 C,Mand6 cuff vent
6.1 CM
A BACK GRAIN LINE
Adding theFRONT sleeve facing 18.5 CM 2.5 CM PITCH GRAINLINE
POINT
PITCH
It is PiOINmTportant that you have already
established your7.25 CM sleeve length before 41 CM
toF
adding Da slB eEeve facUiNDnERgARM CthG e bottom of
3 LINE
2.5 CM SEAM 1 CM
2.5 CM 1 CM SEAM
your sleeve.
SLEEVE BACK BACK
MASTER
PATTERN SLEEVE SLEEVE
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the final top FRONT TOP TOP SL TEOEPVSELEFERVEOFNOTRESAERAMMSEAM
sleeve pattern, adding in alignment notches. TOPTSLOEPEVSELEEVE
HK sq4 uELaBOrWeLIdNEownI 13⁄16in CUT 1CUPTR 1SEPLFR SELF
• From the and draw a
sleeJ ve hemline TOP TSOLPESELVEEEVEBABACCKKSSEEAAMM
TOP SLEEVE FOREARM SEAM
rectangular box. This is the sleeve facing, which will be folded1 CM
up inside the sleeve. UNDER SLEEVE FOREARM SEAM 4 CM CENTRE LINE
• Extend the length of the sleeve facing by 13⁄16in at the back
seam to create a sleeve opening.
• Measure up 4in along the back seam and create a
rectangular box 13⁄16in in width.
• Measure up a furtheBrOTT9O⁄M16in and join this point to the outer
corner of the box, crCSLeUEFEaFVtEing an angle and shape similar to the
2 CM POINT ⁄1.951C6"M
2 CM M 14 CM
centTeOPrSbLEEaVcE kLvent. FFOOLLDD FFOOLLDD
TwhitehCcUaoFFmrPnOIiNetTerroefdt7hsee2CaCUsMmFlF1eH8EeoCMMvnLINecESefa2fcoilndgedaNnbdacokp8 aenndinagtctaacnhbeed 313C⁄1M6"
• finished HCCEUUFMFFLFHIENMELINE FOFOLLDD FFOOLLDD
to the FFAACCININGG 140" CM
31 3C⁄16M"
sleeve lining.
step 25 GGRRAIAIN LNILNIENE
Undersleeve pattern, facing, and cuff vent
UNDUENRDESRLESLEEVEEVEBBAACCKK SSEEAAMM UNUDNERDESLREESVLEEFEOVREEAFRRMOSNEATMSEAM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the final UND UENRDSELRESELEVEEVE
undersleeve pattern, adding in alignment notches. CUT C1UTP 1AI PRAISRESLELFF
• From the sleeve hemline square down 13⁄16in and draw a ⁄91.516C"M
rectangular box to create the sleeve facing.
41"0 CM
• Extend the length of the sleeve facing by 13⁄16in at the back FFOOLLDD
seam to create the other side of the sleeve opening.
13 ⁄16"
• Measure up 4in along the back seam to create a rectangular CUCHFUFEFHMFELMILNINEE MC 3
box 13⁄16in in width. FFOOLLDD FFAACCINING G
• Measure up a further 9⁄16in and join this point to the outer 313C⁄1M6"
corner of the box, creating an angle and shape similar to the
center back vent.
• The corner of the sleeve facing and opening can be finished
with a mitered seam once folded back and attached to the
sleeve lining.
246 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
0.3516C"M⁄ CTROOPWON F
PSOLIENTEVE CAP
step 26 BACK
Developing the top sleeve TTSTOHEIPHPBOOAFUCLKDER
lining
⁄03.156C" M
• Following the instructions on page 50,
trace off the top sleeve pattern onto a GGRRAIANI LNILNIENE
separate piece of paper.
FRONT 03.156"CM⁄
• Remove 3⁄8in from the lower edge of STHOOPUOLFDER
the sleeve, leaving a 3⁄4in facing. TITPHE FRONT
• From the back shoulder tip measure ⁄0.53 C16M"
out 3⁄16in and up 3⁄16in and mark.
TOP STOLPESELVEEEVLEI LNIININNGG
• From the front shoulder tip measure CUT 1CUPTR1LPIRNILINNIGNG
out 3⁄16in and up 3⁄16in and mark.
• Using the sleeve cap shape as a
template, join these points at the cap
with a curved line.
• From the new shoulder tips redraw the
lines down to blend in with the new
sleeve hemline.
23⁄C4"M
REREMMOOVVEE TTBSOHEPHACBOOAFKUCLKDER
TIP
3⁄8"1CM
30.156"CM⁄
⁄0.53 C16M"
step 27 GGRRAIANI LNILNIENE TFORPOOFNT
Developing the under sleeve lining TSHHE OFRUOLNDTER
30.156"CM⁄ TIP
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
undersleeve pattern onto a separate piece of paper. ⁄30.156C" M
• Remove 3⁄8in from the lower edge of the sleeve, leaving UNDEURNSDLEERESLVEEEVLIENLIINNINGG
a 3⁄4in facing. CUT 1CUPTR1LIPRNILINNIGNG
• From the front shoulder tip measure out 3⁄16in and up 3⁄16in
and mark.
• From the back shoulder tip measure up 3⁄16in and then out
3⁄16in and mark.
• Join these points along the underarm with a curved line.
• From the new shoulder tips redraw the lines down to blend in
with the new sleeve hem.
RREE1M3CM⁄O8MVO"EVE
23C⁄4M"
Trench Coat 247
BSSBAHHACOCKOULKUDLEDR ER30.156"CM⁄
PTOIIPNT
step 28
Developing the front body lining ⁄0.35 1C6M"
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the ⁄03.51C6M"
front body panel without the facing.
GRGARIAINNLILINNEE JOINJOITNOTFOAFACICINNGG
• Remove 1in from the lower edge of the hem allowance.
• From the shoulder tip square out and up 3⁄16in, find the new
shoulder tip, and blend back to the front facing line along
the shoulder.
• From the top of the front style line, measure 3⁄16in out into
the armhole and continue this line and the style line up to
a point and mark where they intersect.
• Join this point with the new shoulder tip by drawing a curved
line following the shape of the armhole.
FROFNRTOLINNITNGLINING
CUTC1UPTR1LINPINRGLINING
HEMHELMINLIENE
RERMEMOOVVEE RREEMMOOVEVE
1" 2.5CM 21."5CM
step 29 BACK 5 C2"M
Developing the back neck facing SHOBAUCKLDHIGEHRPOINT
POISNHOTULDER
Back neck facing
The back neck facing is added to give 5 2"CM FFAACCINING G
strength and to stabilize the collar.
It is connected to the front facing at CENTER BACK BACK LINING
the shoulder and is cut from facing MASTER PLAN
fabric and fused.
BACK LINING
Here it is illustrated as a half pattern MASTER PLAN
to be traced off before you make the
adaptations for the ease in the lining. CHCHEESSTTLELVIENLE
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace the left back CENTRE BACK
pattern onto a separate piece of paper. Measure 2in down the
center back and 2in down the shoulder seam from the high
point shoulder. Connect these points with a curve following
the shape of the neckline.
248 Chapter five the patterns: outerwear
step 30 BACK NECK FACING CCEENNTTREERBABCAKCK
Back neck facing pattern CUTB1ASCKELNFECK FACING GRGARIAINNLILINNEE
CUTCC1UUFTT U11 SFSUEESLFE
• Trace off the back neck facing onto a
new piece of paper and, following the
instructions on page 50, create the full
pattern shape.
52C"M BSPSTBOHACOIIAHNPKUCOTLKUDELRDER
5 C2M" FAFCAICNINGG ⁄301.56"CM
⁄03.516C"M
step 31 PL19P⁄.E15L6EAC"ATMT LEFT BACK
Developing the left back body lining LELFITNBINACGK LINING ⁄03.516C"M
MAMSATESRTPELRAN
• Using the tracing of the back pattern on which you drew the UUNNDDEERARRAMRM
neck facing, create half of the back lining pleat to introduce PLAN P/ OSIINDTE SEAM
ease. From the center back measure out 9⁄16in below the NEWNECWENCETNETRREBBAACCKK CORNER
facing line and mark, and from the chest level measure out CECNENTTERRE BAACCKK CCHHEESSTTLILNEEVEL
9⁄16in and mark. Join these two points and then blend the line GRAIN LINEGRAINLINE
back to the original center back line at the waist with
a slight curve. Notch the center back along this new line. WWAAISISTLTINLEINE
• From the shoulder tip measure out 3⁄16in and up 3⁄16in and find RERMEOMVOVEEVVEENNTTSSHAHPAEPE REMROEVMEOVNEENEGGAATTIIVVEE OOFFVEVNETNSTHASPEHAPE
the new shoulder tip. Draw a straight line back to the outer
edge of the neck facing.
• At the underarm / side seam corner square out 3⁄16in. Join
this point back to the new shoulder tip using a curved line
following the original armhole shape.
• Because the vent on the left side of the back pattern is
folded in when constructed, remove the vent shape from the
lining together with a negative of the vent shape in the back
panel lining itself.
• Remove 1in from the lower edge of the hem allowance.
This will leave enough fabric to allow for an overlap, or ease,
in the lining at the hem.
2R1.R"E5EMCMOMVOEVE HEMHELMINLIENE21R.R"E5EMCMOMVOEVE
Trench Coat 249
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