Step 22 GRAINLILINNEE
Hood opening facing strip and edging patterns FACING LINE
• The hood opening facing is a strip of fabric, 13⁄16in in depth, HOOD FACINGGNICAF DOOH
CUT 1 SELF FLES 1 TUC
that follows the curved shape of the hood opening. The
MC 3
edging finishes the hood opening.
• On the hood side panel pattern, measure in 13⁄16in at the
neckline and mark and 13⁄16in at the top of the front hood
opening and make a mark. Connect these points to create
a curve 13⁄16in in depth along the opening.
• Trace off the hood opening facing strip onto a new piece of
paper and, following the instructions on page 50, create the
FOLD full pattern shape. 1.5 CM
1.5 CM
• With a tape measure held upright measure along the
outer edge of the facing strip—in this case 271⁄2in. Draw a
rectangular box 271⁄2in long by 13⁄16in wide and mark a fold
line lengthways down the center to create the edging.
HOOD FACING
CUT 1 SELF
31 3C⁄16M"
HHOOOODD GLLG
MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN
313C⁄16M"
72071C⁄2"M
1.5 9C⁄1M6" HOOD OPENING EDGINNGG GL FOLD 19.⁄156"CM
1.5 9C⁄1M6" CUT 1 RIB 19.⁄156"CM
100 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 23
Center back hood panel pattern
• Draw a rectangular box 23⁄8in wide by 201⁄4in long. This will
become your final center back hood panel.
CENTERRE BACK 13⁄16" BACK HOOD GRAINLINE
NNEECCKK PPOOIINNTT 13⁄16" CUT 1 SELF 5210.15⁄4"CM
7270⁄8"CM
Step 24 831C⁄8"M RIBBED CUFF GRAINLINE FOLD 831C⁄8"M
Ribbed cuff pattern 831C⁄8"M CUT 1 PR RIB 831C⁄8"M
• The cuff is a folded pattern. Draw a rectangular box
2707⁄8"CM
61⁄4in wide and 77⁄8in long. Mark the fold line halfway 91 CM
along the width.
8 CM
8 CM
91 CM
hooded sweatshirt 101
Step 25 20 CM
Ribbed waistband pattern
8 CM
• The waistband is a folded pattern. Draw a rectangular box 8 CM
8 CM
61⁄4in wide and 353⁄4in long. Mark the fold line halfway along
the width.
8 CM
20 CM
91 CM 313⁄4"
38 1C⁄8M" GRAINLINE FOLD 8 3C1M⁄8"
8 CM RIBBED WAISTBAND 8 CM
31⁄8" CUT 1 RIB 31⁄8"
91 CM 313⁄4"
102 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
hooded sweatshirt 103
pattern
Casual long-sleeved shirt
This pattern includes development
of the following features:
Shaping the body
Creating a grown-on placket
Adding length to the body
Extending the shoulder, moving the shoulder
seam, and enlarging the armhole
Creating a back yoke
CreatOinFgFIaCEbRreCaOstLLpAoRcket WING-TIP COLLAR CAMBRIDGE BAOTAING WIDE SPREAD CLUB COLLAR O
Creating a two-piece collar COLLAR CUTAWAY COLLAR D
Lowering the armhole
Reducing the sleeve cap height
Developing a cuff with cuff guard PBPBNAOIAOTCICCTNKKHCTH
FRONT
PNIOTTCCHH
POINT
CHEST LEINVEEL
CCEENNTTREER BBAACCKK
SSIIDDEE SSEEAAMM
GRAINLLIINNEE
CCEENNTTREER FFRROONNTT
BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER
PLAN PPLLAANN
Step 1 WAISTLINE
Developing the master plan
HIEPMLLEINVEL
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the shirt you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
104 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
FRONT SHOULDER
NECK POINT
FRONT HIGH POINT
SHOULDER
2.5 CM1" SHSOEUALMDER 23⁄4"CM 3⁄24"CM SHOSUELADMER 21."5 CM
23⁄4C"M 3⁄24"CM
Step 2
Developing the enlarged armhole, extending CHEST LIENVEEL 2 3⁄C4"M
the shoulder, moving the shoulder seam, and BACK MASTER 2 3⁄C4"M
adding length and width to the body
CENTERER BACK PLAN OLD BACK SIDE SEAM FRONT MASTER GRAINLLIINNEE
• To create the relaxed fit of this shirt style, add 3⁄4in each to WAISTLINE NEW SIDE SEAM PLAN CENTERRE FRONT
the front and back side seams. This will enlarge the armhole OLD FRONT SIDE SEAM
and give the shallower sleeve cap of an extended shoulder
style. You will need to reposition the front and back upper HEMLINE 41C5⁄8M" 623⁄8C"M
body slopers to add 15⁄8in at the side seams and redraw the NEW HEMLINE
master plan.
• From the front shoulder tip measure out 3⁄4in over the
armhole, square down 3⁄4in, and mark. At the front high point
shoulder measure 1in down the neckline and draw a new line
across to meet the new mark at the armhole.
• Trace this shape onto a new piece of paper and cut it out.
Add the shape to the top of the back shoulder seam and
trace around it. This will create a shorter shoulder on the
front and a longer shoulder on the back.
• Extend the center front and center back lines down 23⁄8in
from the hemline and square across to create a new hemline.
Step 3 NPBNBAIETAECWCCWKHK NEW
Developing the new armhole and body shaping PNOOINTTCH FNREOWNT
UNDERARM PFIRTCOHNT
• Measure 1in down the new side seam and make a mark. From U/ SNIDDEERSAERAMM PNOOINTCT H
this point on the front and back master plans, using the basic PCOOIRNNTER CHEST LEINVEEL
upper body slopers as a template, trace the new lowered
armhole shape, continuing it up to connect with the new 21."5 CM
shoulders. Transfer the back and front notches to their new CENTREER BACKK 124C3⁄4M"
positions on the lowered armhole. 52"CM
• To develop the side seam, measure out 3⁄8in in both GRAINLLIINNEE
directions where the new side seam intersects the waistline. CCEENNTTREER FFRROONNTT
BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER
• Connect both these points up to the new underarm / side PLAN PPLLAANN
seam corner and down to the new hemline at the bottom of
the new side seam with straight lines. 1C3M⁄8" 13⁄8"CM 1C3⁄8M" 31⁄8"CM WAISTLINE
• Create a side back dart by measuring 43⁄4in from the center 1243C⁄4"M HEMLINE
back along the chest level and the original hemline. Draw NEW HEMLINE
a vertical line to connect these two points.
Casual long-sleeved shirt 105
• Measure 2in down this new line from the chest level and
mark. This point will be the starting point of the side back
dart. Where the new line intersects the waistline, measure
3⁄8in out on both sides and mark. This will become the
widest point of the dart. Draw in the dart legs, connecting
all the above points and the end of the dart line at the
original hemline.
BPPNNNBIAOEATEOCWICCWNTKHKCTH CENTRERE
NEW PFRONT
FRONT NECK
NPIOTTCCHH POINT
POINT
1.5 9⁄C16"M
1.5 9⁄C16"M
313⁄C16"M
1 3C⁄8"M
Step 4 CHEST LEINVEEL
Developing the grown-on placket
CENTERER BACK BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER GRAINLLIINNEE
• The placket width in this style is 13⁄16in and is centered over PLAN PPLLAANN CENTERER FRONT
the center front line. Measure 9⁄16in out from the center front
neck point and mark, and back 9⁄16in along the neckline and WAISTLINE
mark. Repeat at the hemline and connect all four marks to
make a rectangle.
• Add another rectangular placket shape, 13⁄16in wide, to the
front of the first rectangle, and then add a further 3⁄8in
seam allowance.
• The overall measurement of the placket excluding the seam
allowance is now 23⁄8in.
HEMLINE
NEW HEMLINE
3 13⁄C16"M
3 13⁄C16"M
1 3C⁄8"M
CENTRERE NEW NEW
BACK BACK BACK
NECK SHOULDER SHOULDER
POINT POINT TIP
FR
CU
Step 5 831⁄8C"M 381⁄8"CM
Developing the back yoke and front breast
pocket NNEEWW 5 2C"M 52C"M
BBAACCKK
• To create the back yoke measure 31⁄8in down the center back CHEST LEINVEEL PNITOCTHCH 145C⁄8"M
from the center back neck point and mark. Measure 31⁄8in POINT 273C⁄4"M
from the new back shoulder tip down the armhole and mark. NEW
Connect these two points with a straight line. FRONT
PNIOTTCCHH
• From the front armhole measure 43⁄4in in along the chest POINT
level and mark. At this point square up 15⁄8in and down 23⁄4in
and draw a vertical line. At the top of the line square out 2in 1423C⁄4"M
on each side and mark. These points will become the
pocket corners. CENTERER BACK BACK MASTER 4.513C⁄4"M 4.513C⁄4"M GRAINLLIINNEE
PLAN FRONT MASTER CENTERER FRONT
• Measure up 3⁄8in from the bottom of the vertical line and
square out 13⁄4in to either side and mark. Join these points WAISTLINE PPLLAANN
back to the bottom of the vertical line with straight lines.
Connect these points back up to the pocket corners to create
the final pocket shape.
HEMLINE
NEW HEMLINE
106 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
FRONT RIGHT GRAI FRONT LEFT
CUT 1 SELF GRAI CUT 1 SELF
8 CM 8 CM
Step 6 NEW Step 7
BACK back pattern
PITCH
POINT • Trace off the back onto a new piece of paper and, following
the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
Front pattern NEW 5 CM 5 CM
FRONT
PITCH
CHES•T LFINoEllowing the instrPuOcINtiTons on page 504, CtMrace off the front
pattern, indicating the breast12pCoMcket p7 oCMsition on the right
front panel with drill holes at the corners.
CENTRE BACK 4.5 CM 4.5 CM GRAIN LINE
CENTRE FRONT
BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER
PLAN PLAN
WAISTLINE
FOLD BACK
FOLD CUT 1 SELF
FOLD
FOLD
HEMLINE GRAINLLIINNEE FRONT LEFT GRAINLLIINNEE
FOLD CUT 1 SELF
NEW HEMLINE FOLD
FRONT RIGHT FOLD
CUT 1 SELF FOLD
GRAINLLIINNEE
Step 8 GRAIN LINE FAFCACIINNGG
Breast pocket pattern 2.51"CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the breast FFOOLLDD FFOOLLDD
GGRARINAILINNELINE
pocket pattern, addCiBnUAgTC1KaSE1iLnF facing to the top. 2.51"CMBREAST
POCKET
Step 9 CSBCEUURLTTEAF11SSTEPLOFCKET
Back yoke pattern
• Trace the back yoke onto a new piece of paper and, following GRRAAIINNLILINNEE
the instructions of page 50, create the full pattern shape.
BACCKK YYOOKKEE
CUT 1 PR SELF
Casual long-sleeved shirt 107
Step 10 Step 11
Developing the collar stand Developing the top collar
Measuring half the neck from the master plan • Trace off the stand shape from Step 10 onto another piece
of paper.
We will develop half the collar stand
before creating the full collar stand. • Continue the center back line vertically up 3in from the top
By taking measurements from the master of the stand, square across 91⁄2in, and make a mark. This is
plan, which is drawn in half, you will be the collar point. Connect this point back down to the center
measuring half of the neck measurement. front neck with a straight line. You have now created the
• On the master plan measure the length basic top collar shape.
of the back neck, in this case 43⁄8in, • At the collar point extend the front edge of the collar out and
and the front neck from the shoulder up by 3⁄8in and draw a curved line back to meet the outer
tip down past the center front line edge. This will give the collar a smoother shape.
to the point at which the placket
finishes, in this case 53⁄8in. • Measure up 1in from the top of the stand along the center
• Add these two measurements together back and make a mark. From here, square across to a point
to give half the neck measurement, above the shoulder notch. From this point draw a curved
in this case 93⁄4in. line to meet the center front neck, mirroring the curve
of the stand. This is the inner edge of the 2in-wide top
collar shape.
COLLAR
DEVELOPMENT
• On a new piece of piece of paper, draw a rectangle measuring CCOOLLLLAARR
POINT
93⁄4in by 1in, which is the half neck measurement by the
13⁄8C" M
width of the collar stand. Label the narrow side as the center
back neck and the long side as the neckline. 5 CM2"
2.5 CM1"
• From the center back neck, measure 43⁄8in (the half back SHOULDER NOTCH
CB CB
neck measurement) along the bottom line of the rectangle CF
and place a notch. Label it the shoulder notch. Do the same
43⁄8in along the top line of the rectangle. 1413⁄8C" M 1533⁄.85" CM
• Measure up 9⁄16in at the front edge of the rectangle
and join this point back to the lower shoulder notch with
a slight curve.
• From the shoulder notch, measure 53⁄8in (the half front neck
measurement) along this curved line. At the front of the
curved line, square up 1in (the width of the collar stand). REMOVE 0.3 CM
GRAIN LINE
Then draw another curved line to connect this line back to
the top shoulder notch. UNDER COLLAR
CUT 1 SELF
CENTER SHOULDER CENTER CB NECK
BACK NOTCH FRONT OUTER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
NECK NECK
GRAIN LINE
CB 1" INNER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
1" 43⁄8" 53⁄8" TOP COLLAR
93⁄4" CUT 1 S9E⁄1L6"F
NECKLINE CUT 1 FUSE
STAND WIDTH CB NECK OUTER EDGE OF STAND
108 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
CF COLLAR STAND GRAIN LINE CF
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 FUSE
INNER EDGE OF STAND
Step 12
Top collar pattern
Collar stand pattern
under collar Pattern
• Trace off the collar stand pattern and, following the
instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
• Trace off the top collar pattern and, following the instructions
on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
• The under collar is a copy of the top collar reduced by 1⁄8in
at the center back neck, which is blended back with a line
to both collar points; this reduction, when sewn, will pull the
seam edge under the collar slightly so as not to be seen.
Make a separate pattern for the under collar.
STAND WIDTH
CCOOLLLLAARRSSTTAANNDD
CCUUTT 11 PPRR SSEELLFF CCUUTT 11 FFUUSSEE
CCFF GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE
CB NECK
CCFF
OOUUTTEERREEDDGGEEOOFFTTOOPPCCOOLLLLAARR
CCTOUUCTCPTTOUUC11PTTOFSC11ULEOLSLFSLAFEUELRSLAEFR GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE
INNER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
SHOULDER NOTCH SHOULDER NOTCH
REMOVE 1⁄8" OUTER EDGE OF STAND
UNDUENRDCEROLCLOALRLAR GRAIN LINE GRAINLINE
CUTC1USTE1LSFELF INNER EDGE OF STAND
CB NECK
Casual long-sleeved shirt 109
TOP OF
CSRLEOEWVNEPCOAINPT
BPBAIATCCCKHK NFFPPRORIOTOTOCICNNNHTHTT
NOPOTCINHT
Step 13 BICUENPDSELREAVREML LINE
Developing the sleeve master plan BABACCKK SLLEEEEVVE E
MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN
• Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve UBNADCEKRUANRDMESREAARMM SEAM FRFORNONTTSSLLEEEEVVEE
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the CEENNTTREERLILINNEEMAMSATSTEERR PPLLAANN
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper
slightly longer than the length of the sleeve you want to FROUNNTDEURNADREMRASERAMMSEAM
develop and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks,
labels, and instructions, following the directions on page 50.
The design illustrated is shaped and has a gathered tuck on
the back of the sleeve for even more shaping.
CCUUFFFF HHEEMM
Measurements for developing the sleeve
You will need three measurements here:
1. Half the armhole measurement—measure
the new armhole on the front and
back patterns. In this case the front
armhole is 101⁄4in and the back 11in.
Add these measurements together
(211⁄4in) and divide in half,
making 105⁄8in.
2. Half the biceps measurement—measure
the biceps width from the master plan.
In this case it is 14in. As this is a
casual-fitting shirt you can determine
the amount of ease according to the
design. In this case we will add 5in
ease to the biceps measurement, making
19in. Divide this measurement in half,
making 91⁄2in.
3. The cuff measurement, which in this
case is 91⁄2in (the wrist measurement),
plus a 2in tuck, making 111⁄2in.
110 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 14
Developing the sleeve with a reduced sleeve cap height
and shaping the cuff hemline
• Measure 1in down the center line from the top of the sleeve • From the cuff hemline measure 5in up the center line and
cap to reduce the height of the sleeve cap by the same square out 53⁄4in on both sides (the wrist measurement
amount that you lowered the armhole in Step 3. plus 2in for the tuck) and mark. To create the shaping at the
bottom of the sleeve, measure down 3⁄16in on the back sleeve
• At an angle from the new top of the sleeve cap, draw out from the center of the new cuff hemline and mark this point.
a line measuring half the new armhole—105⁄8in. From the On the front sleeve, measure up 3⁄16in from the center of the
center line, draw out a line measuring half the new biceps new cuff hemline and mark this point. Join the points with
measurement—91⁄2in. Adjust these lines until they meet to a curved line that is convex on the back sleeve and then
form a triangle and repeat on the other side of the sleeve. reverses at the center line so that it is concave on the front.
This will become the frame around which you construct the
new shortened sleeve cap. • Now draw in the new underarm seam lines from either end
of the new cuff hemline to the new corners of the sleeve at
biceps level to create the sleeve shape.
CTORPOOWF N SSLLEEEVEEVCEAPHEAD
SLPEEOVIENCTAP HHEIEIGHGTHT
2.5 1C" M
12075 ⁄8C" M 21075⁄8C" M
NUENNCSWDLEOEWREEBNRVBEAEAARCCRAKKTM 24 CM91⁄2" UBINCEDPESRLEAVREML LINE 2914⁄2"CM NNEEWWFRFORNOTNT NEW
POBICNETPS LEVEL UPSBCLIOONCEREDIENNPVEESTERRLEAATVREML UND
POI
BBAACCKK SSLLEEEEVVEE FFRROONNTT SSLLEEEEVVEE
MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN
BACKUNUNDDEERRARRMMSESAEMAM EELLBBOOWWLELVIENLECCEENTNETRRLIENLEINE
FRONT UUNDNEDREARRMASREMAMSEAM
0.5 CM"⁄3 16 03⁄16."5 CM
1534⁄4".5 CM 1534⁄4".5 CM
13 CM5"
CCUUFFFFHEHMEMLINE
Casual long-sleeved shirt 111
Step 15
DEveloping the new sleeve shape
• Add shape to the sleeve cap by measuring 33⁄8in from the • Using a French curve, draw in shallow raised curves from the
new top of the sleeve cap along the diagonal line toward the new top of the sleeve cap through the marks on the upper
new front corner of the sleeve at biceps level, square out portion of the sleeve cap, reversing the curves at the marks
1⁄2in, and mark. Then from the front corner of the sleeve at on the lower portion of the sleeve cap, and finishing these
biceps level measure 4in up along the diagonal and mark. hollow curved lines at the corners of the sleeve at biceps
On the back measure down 31⁄2in on the diagonal, square out level. To add in the notches, first measure the distance on
1⁄2in and mark; measure 31⁄8in up from the back corner of the the front and back body panels between the corners of the
sleeve at biceps level and mark. sleeve at biceps level and the notches around the armhole.
Then transcribe the measurements to the sleeve cap,
measuring from the sleeve corners toward the cap.
• From the back underarm seam line measure in 3in along the
new cuff hemline and square up 61⁄4in. This is the cut line
for the cuff guard. From the bottom of the cuff guard line,
continue to measure 13⁄4in and mark, and a further 2in and
mark. This will become the tuck.
CTORPOOWF N
SLPEOEVINE TCAP
1.3 CM1⁄2" 9 3C1 ⁄2M" 83.3⁄58" CM 11⁄2."3 CM
10 C4"M
83C1 ⁄8"M 91⁄2"
ONT NNEEWWBABCAKCK 91⁄2" NNEEWWFRFORNOT NT
ARM BSCUPILOOCNEREEDINNPVEESTERRLEAATVREML UCBSPLIOONCEREDEINNPVEESTERRLEAATVREML
UBINCEDPESRLEAVREML LINE
BBAACCKK SSLLEEEEVVEE FFRROONNTT SSLLEEEEVVEE
MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN
BUANCKD UENRDAERRAMRMSESEAAMM
CCEENTNETRRLIENLEINE
FURNODNTEURNADRERMARSMESAEMAM
6116⁄4" CM
7.35" CM TTUUCCKK NEW CUFF HEM
4.153⁄4C" M 5 2C" M
CCUUFFFFHEHMEMLINE
112 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
CROWN
POINT
9 CM 8.5 CM 1.3 CM
10 CM
Step 16 NEW FRONT
UNDERARM LINE Sleeve pattern UNDERARM
POINT
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the sleeve SSLLEEEEVVE E
pattern, indicating the top of the cuff opening position with CCUUTT1 1PRPSRELSFELF
FMRAOSNTTERSLPELEAaVNEdrill hole.
CENTRE LINE
UNDERARM SEAM
GGRRAIANILINNLEINE
6 CM
TUCK
CM 5 CM
NE Step 17
Developing the cuff
Measuring the cuff • On a separate piece of paper, draw a box 9in long by 61⁄4in
wide to create a rectangular-shaped cuff.
The cuff is a double pattern piece that
is sewn onto the end of the sleeve and • Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the
turned inside out. The cuff shape will center, and label it fold.
start and finish at the guard opening.
Measure this width from the pattern,
in this case 113⁄8in, and subtract 2in
for the tuck and 3⁄8in for the seam
allowance (3⁄16in on either side) on
the cuff guard opening, making 9in.
83C1⁄M8" SSLLEEEEVEVCEUCFFUFF 293" CM GRGARIAINNLILINNEE
83C1⁄M8" CCUUTT11PRPRSESLFELF FFOOLLDD
Casual long-sleeved shirt 113
2 CM 2 CM
TOP EDGE 3⁄4" 3⁄4"
TOP EDGE
3⁄4"
2.15" CM2 CM
1 3⁄8C"M
1 3⁄8C"M
FOLD
FOLD
FOLD
Step 18
Developing the top cuff guard FFOOLLDD
FOLD
• On a separate piece of paper, create a rectangular box 61⁄4in FFOOLLDD
long by 23⁄8in wide.
16 CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the GRAIN LINE
center, and label it fold.
611⁄64"CM
• At each end square out 3⁄4in up and 3⁄4in down from the fold GRAINLLIINNEE
line and mark. Join these points with straight lines. This will
leave you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side. BOTTOM CUFF GAURD TOP CUFF GUAAURD
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
• From the top left corner measure 1in along the long side of
the rectangle and square across 3⁄4in. This small rectangular1 CM4 CM 1 CM
shape will be removed from the pattern.
2 CM 1 CM 1 CM 2 CM
• From the bottom right corner measure 3⁄8in down the long 3⁄8" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄8"
side of the rectangle and mark, and measure 3⁄4in in on the
short side and mark. Join these points with an angled line. BOTTOM EDGE STITCHED
TO CUFF
• Now measure 3⁄8in in along the top edge of the rectangle you 6 CM
drew in the top left corner and join this point to the top of
the first angled line to give a pointed shape to the top of
the cuff guard.
23⁄8"
TO CUFF
BOTTOM EDGE STITCHED
TOP EDGE M
Step 19 2.5 CM2 CM
Developing the bottom cuff guard 1 CM
• Create a rectangular box 61⁄4in by 23⁄8in. FFOOLLDD
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the FOLD
FOLD
center, and label it fold.
• At each end square out 3⁄4in from the fold line and mark on FOLD
both sides. Join these points with straight lines. This will 161⁄64"CM
leave you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side. GRAINLLIINNEE
16 CM
BOTTOM CUFF GAUUARD TOP CUFF GAURD
CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 1 PR SELF
1 CM 4 CM 1 CM
3⁄8" 15⁄8" 3⁄8"
114 Chapter three the patterns: shirts E STITCHED
UFF
M
2 CM 1 CM
Casual long-sleeved shirt 115
pattern
Lumberjack Shirt
This pattern includes development Creating a classic Western-style front yoke
of the following features: shape that doubles up as pocket flaps to
Shaping the body the internally sewn pocket bag
Creating a sewn-on placket
Adding length to the body Creating a back yoke with center back pleat
Creating a baseball hemline Creating a two-piece collar
Creating a set-in sleeve
Developing a cuff with cuff guard
BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER
PPLLAANN PPLLAANN
CHEST LEINVEEL
Step 1 CENTERER BACK
Developing the master plan WAISTLINE SIDE SEAM
HHIPIPLLEINVE L GRAINLILNE
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by CENTERER FRONT
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the shirt you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
116 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
BACK MASTER FRONT MASTER
PPLLAANN PPLLAANN
CHEST LEINVEEL
Step 2
Lengthening the body and developing the CCEENNTTREER BACK
baseball hemline SSIIDDE SEAM
GRAINLLINE
• Extend the center front, side seam, and the center back lines CENTREER FRONT
down 23⁄8in from the original hemline.
WAISTLINE
• Join these three points with a straight horizontal line to
create a new hemline.
• On this new hemline measure in 15⁄8in from the center back
and the center front.
• From these points draw graduated curves up to meet the
end of the side seam on the original hemline. You have now
created a generic baseball hemline.
HEMLINE 623⁄8C"M
NEW HEMLINE
41C5⁄8M" NEW HEMLINE 41C5⁄M8"
CENTRERE
FRONT
NECK
POINT
Step 3 FRONT MASTER 2.5 C1M"
PPLLAANN 2.5 C1"M
DevBAeCKPlLMAoANSTpERing the sewn-on placketFRONT MASTER BACK MASTER
PLAN PLAN 1.59⁄C16M"
• The placket width is 1in and is drafted over the center front CHCEHSETSLTELVIENLE FFOOLD
as a template to be traced off and attached later.
WAISTLINE FOLD
• FromCHEStThLIeNE center front neck point measure back 1⁄2in along
the neckline and mark, and measure out 1⁄2in and mark; HEMLINE CENTERER FRONT
repeat this at the new hemline and connect these points with NEW HEMLINE
straight lines and label the outer one fold.
• From the outer line measure out another 1in at the neckline
for the placket width and mark; repeat at the hemline.
Measure out another 9⁄16in to create the seam allowance;
repeWAaIStTLIaNEt the hemline. Again, join these points and label the
first line fold.
• The overall measurement of the placket is now 21⁄2in,
including the seam allowance.
CENTRE BACK SIDE SEAM GGRRAAINLLINE
SIDE SEAM
GRAIN LNE
CENTRE FRONT
CENTERER BACK
FFOLD
FFOOLLD
HEMLINE 6 CM
NEW HEMLINE
4 CM NEW HEMLINE 4 CM
2.5 C1"M
2.5 C1"M
1.59⁄1C6"M
6.251⁄C2"M
lumberjack shirt 117
BACK
PBIATCCKH
PNOITNCTH
NFFPPRROIOTOOTICNCNNHTHTT 1791C⁄2"M FOLD
313C⁄16M"
Step 4 FOLD
Developing the front yoke shape
CHEST LIENVEEL FRONT MASTER
• From the front notch on the armhole square across to meet BACK MASTER PPLLAANN
the new placket shape.
PPLLAANNCENTERRE BACK CENTERRE FRONT
• Measure between the front notch and the placket, in this SIDE SEAM
case 71⁄2in. WAISTLINE
FOLD
• Divide this measurement in half, in this case 33⁄4in, and at HEMLINE
this new point square down 13⁄16in and mark. This will be the NEW HEMLINE FOLD
apex of the curve on the Western-style front yoke.
• Draw a curved line from the front notch to the point at
the apex of the curve, followed by another curved line to
the point at the other end of the horizontal line you drew
to the placket line.
Step 5 BACK FFRROONNT MTAMSTAERSPTLEARN
Developing the breast pocket and flap PBAICTKCH PLAN
PNOOTICNHT 31⁄8"CM
Pocket size 3⁄8"
Pocket widths generally reflect the wBiAdCKPtLMhAANSTER 1 C3⁄M8" 14.5 C53M⁄4" FFOOLLDD
of a human hand or a group of fingers. PFRIFNTROOCOTNHCNHTT
The depth can depend on your design POINT
ethos or the depth of a hand from
fingertip to wrist. FFOOLLDD
CENTRE BACK CHEST LINE 4131⁄8" CM CCEENTNETR FRREONFTRONT
SISIDED SEEASMEAM POPCOCKKEETT PPOOSISTIOITNION
• To make a pocket 43⁄8in wide, measure 3⁄8in down from
center of the pitch line you drew and square out 21⁄8in either FOLD
side. Each end of this horizontal line should intersect the
curved line of the yoke to create a triangular shape. Mirror
this shape above to create a diamond shape, the apex of
which sits 3⁄8in above the horizontal pitch line. Add a 3⁄8in-
wide facing strip that follows the curve of the yoke from
both sides of the diamond shape. This shape will become the
concealed pocket flap described in Step 11 below.
• In this example the pocket depth is 53⁄4in measured from the
middle of the diamond shape. Draw vertical lines fWroAImSTLeINaEch
point where the pocket intersects the curve of the yoke to
create a rectangle 53⁄4in x 43⁄8in. Mark the lower corners of
the pocket with drill holes.
118 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
D
BACK MASTER BACK NFRPPFOROIOTTONCICNNTHHTT
PPLLAANN BNPPAOOITCTICNKCHTH
CHEST LEINVEEL FOLD
Step 6 WAISTLINE UNDERARM FOLD
Developing the front shirt panel / SIUDNEDSEERAAMRM
Shaping for a fitted silhouette CPOORINTER
Side seam shaping will give the shirt
a fitted silhouette. Back shaping with CENTERER BACK SIDE SEAM POCKET POSITION CENTERER FRONT
a dart will give you an even more NEW FRONT SIDE SEAM FRONT MASTER
fitted silhouette.
PPLLAANN
1.59⁄1C6"M
FOLD
• Where the waistline intersects the side seam measure 9⁄16in HEMLINE FOLD
toward the center front and mark. NEW HEMLINE
• From the underarm / side seam corner draw a slightly curved
line down to meet the new point on the waistline and carry
through with a curve back to the hemline at the bottom on
the side seam.
Step 7 9 3C1M⁄2 " 1616⁄4"CM
Developing the back yoke shape, center back BACK MASTER
pleat, and shaped back panel PPLLAANN BACK FRONT MASTER
PBIATCCKH PLAN
• From the back armhole notch square across to the center PNOITNCTH
back to create the back yoke panel. 2 3C⁄4"M FOLD
NFROFPPOTROITCNOICNTHNHTT
• From where this line intersects with center back measure UNDERARM FOLD
out 3⁄4in. / SIUDNEDSEERAAMRM
COPRONIENRT
• Connect this point to the bottom of the new hemline at the
center back with a straight line. This will create half of the CHEST LEINVEEL 41.35⁄4C" M
pleat width. 1541⁄2"CM
• Where the waistline intersects the side seam measure 9⁄16in POCKET POSITION
toward the center back and mark.
CENTERRE BACK NEW BACK SISIDDEESSEEAAMM CENTERRE FRONT
• From the underarm / side seam corner draw a curved line SIDE SEAM
down to the new point on the waistline; carry through with a 13C⁄8M" 13⁄8C"M
curve back to the hemline at the bottom of the side seam.
WAISTLINE
• From the center back measure 51⁄2in along the chest level.
• From this point, square down to the original hemline. 1.59⁄1C6"M
• Measure 13⁄4in down this line and mark. Measure 4in up the
FOLD
line from the original hemline and mark. Where this line
intersects the waistline measure out 3⁄8in on each side and 140" CM
mark these points. Join all these points with straight lines to
create the dart. HEMLINE FOLD
NEW HEMLINE
lumberjack shirt 119
Step 8 Step 9
Developing the collar stand Developing the top collar
Measuring half the neck from the master plan • Trace off the stand shape from Step 8 onto another piece
We will develop half the collar stand of paper.
before creating the full collar stand.
By taking measurements from the master • Continue the center back line vertically up 3in from the top
plan, which is drawn in half, you will be of the stand, square across 97⁄8in, and make a mark. Connect
measuring half the neck measurement. this point back down to the center front line with a straight
• On the master plan measure the length line. You have now created the basic top collar shape.
of the back neck, in this case 35⁄8in, • At the collar point extend the front edge of the collar by 3⁄8in
and the front neck from the high and draw a curved line back to meet the outer edge. This will
point shoulder down past the center give the collar a smoother shape.
front line to the point at which the
placket finishes when folded, in this • Measure up 1in from the top of the stand along the center
case 61⁄4in. back and make a mark. From here, square across to a point
• Add these two measurements together above the shoulder notch. From this point draw a curved
to give half the neck measurement, line to meet the center front line, mirroring the curve of the
in this case 97⁄8in. stand. This is the inner edge of the 2in-wide top collar shape.
• On a new piece of piece of paper, draw a rectangle measuring 9275⁄8" CM COLLAR
97⁄8in by 1in, which is half the neck measurement by the SSHHOOULUDELRDNEOTRCHNOTCH POINT
width of the collar stand. Label the narrow side as the center
back neck and the long side as the neckline. 13⁄8"CM
• From the center back neck, measure 35⁄8in (the half back 5 CM2" CCBB CCBB
neck measurement) along the bottom line of the rectangle 2.5 CM1"
and place a notch. Label it the shoulder notch. Repeat along
the top of the rectangle. COLLAR
DEVELOPMENT
• Measure up 9⁄16in at the front edge of the rectangle and
join this new point back to the lower shoulder notch with
a slight curve.
• From the shoulder notch, measure 61⁄4in (the half front neck
measurement) along this curved line. At the front of the
curved line, square up 1in (the width of the collar stand).
Then draw another curved line to connect this line back to
the top shoulder notch.
• From the top right corner of the stand measure along 1in
(the width of the placket) and from this point square across
to the lower curved line. Label this center front neck. Round
off the top right corner with a slight curve.
COLLAR STAND
DEVELOPMENT
CENTER SHOULDER CENTER
BACK NOTCHES FRONT
NECK NECK
2.5 CM1" 9 3C5⁄8M" 6116⁄4" CM 12".5 CM
19⁄1.65" CM
9275⁄8" CM
NNEECCKLKINLEINE 1661⁄4"CM
120 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
NEW SEAM ALLOWANCEE 31⁄8"CMSESAEMA AMLALLOLOWAWNACNECE Step 11
Front yoke and concealed pocket flap
BUTTON 12."5 CM facing patterns
PLACEMENT 12."5 CM
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the shape of
Step 10 91⁄.156"CSMESAEMAAMLLALOLWOAWNACNECE the front yoke pattern from Steps 4 and 5.
Front placket pattern
FOLD • Indicate the concealed pocket flap position with a broken line.
• Following the instructions on page 50, • Trace off the flap facing pattern separately.
trace off the placket pattern from Step CENTERRE FRONT GRAINLILINNEE GRAIN LINE
3, adding a 3⁄8in seam allowance to the FRONT PLPALCAKCEKTET CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 2 FUSE FRONT YOKE
right-hand side of the placket pattern. CUT 1 PR SELF
FRONT YOKE
CUT 1 PR SELF
FOLD FLAP STITCH LINE
FLAP STITCH LINE
GRAIN LINE GRAINLLIINNEE FLAP FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
FLAP FACING
CUT 1 PR SELF
Step 12 Step 13
Front breast pocket bag pattern Back yoke pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front • Trace off the back yoke from Step 7 onto a new piece of
pocket bag pattern from Step 5. paper and, following the instructions on page 50, create the
full pattern shape.
FCPFRUROOTOCN1TNKPPTREOTSBCEKRBLEFEATAGBSAGT
CUT 1 PR SELF
GRAIN LINE BAACCKK YYOOKKEE CENTERRE BACK
CUT 1 PR SELF GRAINLILINNEE
GRAINLINE
lumberjack shirt 121
Step 14 Step 15
Front pattern Back pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off a copy of the • Trace off the back shirt panel and, following the instructions
lower front shirt panel from Step 7. Follow the curve from on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
the armhole to where the curve meets the top of the pocket
bag, draw a horizontal line across the pocket, and then follow
the curve toward the center front. This will create the pocket
opening edge under the flap.
PLEAT
BACK
CUT 1 SELF
GRAINLLIINNEE
FRONT CENTERRE BACK
CUTC1UPTR1SPERLF GRAINLILINNEE
Step 16 SSTTAANNDD WWIIDDTTHH SSTTAANNDD WWIIDDTTHH
Collar stand pattern OUTER EDGE OF STAND
Top collar pattern
Developing the under collar CCOOLLLLAARRSSTTAANNDD
CCUUTT11PPRRSSEELLFF CCUUTT 11FFUUSSEE
CCFF
CCFF
GRAINLIGNREAIN LINE
• Trace off the collar stand pattern and, following the CENTER
instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape. BACK
• Trace off the top collar pattern and, following the instructions OOUUTTEERREEDDGGEEOOFFTTOOPPCCOOLLLLAARR
on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
TCCOUUCTCPTTOUUC1PTT1OCSF11LOUELFSSLLAUEFLERSLAEFR GGRRAAIINNLLININEE
• The under collar is a copy of the top collar, reduced by 1⁄8in, INNER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
at the center back neck, which is blended back with a line
to both collar points; this reduction, when sewn, will pull the SHOULDER NOTCH SHOULDER NOTCH
seam edge under the collar slightly so as not to be seen.
Make a separate pattern for the under collar. REMOVE1⁄8 "
UNDUENRDECROLCLOALRLAR GGRRAAININLILNIENE
CUTC1USTE1LSFELF INNER EDGE OF STAND
CENTER
BACK
122 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
TOP OF
CSRLOEEWVNEPCOAIPNT
BACK FRONT
BPAITCCKH FPRITOCNHT
NPOOTCINHT NPOOTINCHT
Step 17 UNDSELREAERVME UBINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE FFRROONNTT SSLLEEEEVVEE USNLDEEERVAERM
Developing the sleeve master plan PCOOIRNNTER BBAACCKK SLLEEEEVVEE MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN COPRONIENRT
AT BICEPS MMAASSTTERRPPLLAANN AT BICEPS
Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve LEVEL
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the LEVEL
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper
slightly longer than the length of the shirt you want to develop BACK UUNNDDEERRAARRMMSSEEAAMM
and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks, labels, and CENTERER LINE
instructions, following the directions on page 48. The design 2641.1⁄45"CM
illustrated is shaped and has a gathered pleat on the back of
the sleeve for even more shaping. The sleeve sloper that you NEW SLEEVE LENGTH
have selected might be longer or shorter than the design you FRONUTNUDNEDREARRAMR SMESAEMAM
are developing. Analyze by taking a measurement from your
fit model or dress form and by consulting your size chart, or 2181C" M
even by using competitors’ garments for comparison. The NEW CUFF HEM WIDTH
sleeve length is 241⁄4in and the cuff measurement is calculated CUFF HEM
by adding 13⁄16in to the wrist measurement of 97⁄8in for a tuck,
giving 11in.
SLETOECPVPROEOOICNWFATNP
Step 18 BBAACCKK FRFORNOTNT
Developing the sleeve shape NOPTITCCHH PNITOCTHCH
POINT
• To create the shaping at the bottom of the sleeve, measure POINT
down 3⁄16in on the back sleeve from the center of the new
cuff hemline and mark this point. On the front sleeve, UNDSELREAERVEM UBINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE FMFMRRAOAOSSNNTTTTEERSRSLLPPEELELAEVANVENE USNLDEEERVAERM
measure up 3⁄16in from the center of the new cuff hemline CPOIRNNTER BBAACCKK SSLLEEEEVVEE COPRONINETR
and mark this point. Join the points with a curved line that AT BICEPS MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN AT BICEPS
is convex on the back sleeve and then reverses at the center LEVEL
line so that it is concave on the front. LEVEL
• Now draw in the new underarm seam lines to create the NEW BUANCDKERUANRDMERSAERAMM SEAM CENTERRE LINE
sleeve shape. 6214.1⁄45"CM
NEW SLEEVE LENGTHHT
• From the back underarm seam line measure in 31⁄8in along NEW FURNODENTRAURNMDESREAARMM SEAM
the new cuff hemline and square up 61⁄4in. This is the cut line
for the cuff guard. Measure in a further 15⁄8in at the bottom 161⁄64"CM
of this line and mark and then a further 13⁄16in and mark. TUCK
This will become the tuck. 0.5 3⁄C16M"
0.53C⁄16M"
831C⁄8"M 41C5⁄8M" 313C⁄16M"
NEW CUFF HEM
CUFF HEM
lumberjack shirt 123
Step 19GRAIGNRLIANIEN LINE Step 20
Sleeve pattern Developing the cuff
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
Measuring the cuff
sleeve pattern. The cuff is a double pattern that is sewn
onto the end of the sleeve and turned
SLEEVE inside out. The cuff shape will start
CUT 1 PR SELF and finish at the guard opening. Measure
this width from the pattern, in this case
SLEEVE 11in, and subtract 13⁄16in for the tuck
CUT 1 PR SELF and 3⁄8in for the seam allowance (3⁄16in on
either side) on the cuff guard opening,
making 91⁄2in.
• On a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal box 91⁄2in
long by 51⁄2in wide to create a rectangular-shaped cuff.
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the
center, and label it fold.
SLEEVE CUFF GRAGIRNAILNI LNINEE2491C⁄2M" 154 1C⁄2M"
CUT 1 PR SELF FOFOLLDD
CUT 1 PR FUSE
SLEEVE CUFF
CUT 1 PR SELF
CUT 1 PR FUSE
FFOOLLDD
Step 21 2 CM 2 CM
Developing the top cuff guard TOP EDGE 3⁄4" 3⁄4"
TOP EDGE
• On a separate piece of paper, create a rectangular box 61⁄4in 3⁄4"
long by 23⁄8in wide. 2 CM21."5 CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, drawing a line across the 13⁄8C"M
center, and label it fold. 13⁄8C"M
• At each end square out 3⁄4in from the fold line on both sides FOLD
and mark. Join these points with straight lines. This will leave FOLD
you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side. FFOOLLDD
• From the top left corner measure 1in down the long side of 611⁄64"CM
the rectangle and square across 3⁄4in. This small rectangular GRAINLILINNEE
shape will be removed from the pattern.
TOP CUFF GUAAURD
• From the top right corner measure 3⁄8in down the long side CUT 1 PR SELF
of the rectangle and mark, and measure 3⁄4in across the
short side and mark. Join these points with an angled line. 2 CM 1 CM 1 CM 2 CM
3⁄8" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄8"
• Now measure 3⁄8in down from the edge of the rectangle you BOTTOM EDGE STITCHED
drew in the top left corner and join this point to the top of TO CUFF
the first angled line to give a pointed shape to the top of the 6 CM
cuff guard. 23⁄8"
TO CUFF
124 Chapter three the patterns: shirts BOTTOM EDGE STITCHED
Step 22 FOLD
Developing the bottom cuff guard FOLD
FOLD
• Create a rectangular box 61⁄4in by 23⁄8in.
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the 161⁄64"CM
GRAINLILINNEE
center, and label it fold.
• At each end square out 3⁄4in on both sides from the fold line BBOOTTTTOOMM CCUUFFFF GGUAAURRDD
CUT 1 PR SELF
and mark. Join these points with straight lines. This will leave
you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side.
4 CM 1 CM
⁄3 8" 15⁄8"
1 CM 3⁄8"
lumberjack shirt 125
pattern
Short-sleeved safari shirt
This pattern includes development CHEST LEINVEEL PPBBNIAOTAOCICCNTKHKCT H
of the following features: BACK MASTER FRONT
Creating a darted body NPIOTTCCHH
Constructing a grown-on and a sewn-on placket PLAN POINT
Adding length to the body
Creating a baseball hemline FRONT MASTER
Creating a shoulder yoke PLAN
Creating an epaulet and sleeve tab CENTREER BBAACCKK
Creating a patch pocket with flap SIDE SEAM
Creating a two-piece collar GRAINLLIINNEE
Lowering the armhole
Reducing the sleeve cap height CENTREER FFRROONNTT
Developing a short sleeve incorporating a cuff
WAISTLINE
Step 1
Developing the master plan HEIPMLLEINVE L
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the shirt you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
126 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
CENTRERE FRONT
NECK POINT
Step 2 CENTERER BACK CHEST LEINVEEL PBPBNOIAAOTCICCTNKKHCTHSIDE SEAM GRAINLLIINNEE CENTERER FRONT
Lengthening the body and creating a grown-on BACK MASTER FRONT FOLD
and sewn-on placket NPIOTTCCHH
PLAN POINT
• Extend the center front and center back lines down 23⁄8in
from the hemline and square across. FRONT MASTER
PPLLAN
• The front left body panel has a grown-on placket of 1in and
the front right body has a sewn-on placket. You can create WAISTLINE
both from one pattern development.
FOLD
• From the center front neck point measure back 1⁄2in along
the neckline and mark, and measure out 1⁄2in and mark; HEMLINE
repeat this at the new hemline and connect these points with
straight lines and label the outer one fold. 263C⁄8"M 623C⁄8"M 62C3⁄8M"
• From this line continue to measure out 1in at the neckline and NEW HEMLINE
mark, and then a further 9⁄16in for the seam width; repeat at
the hemline. Again, join these points, mark, and label the first 2.5 C1"M
line as a fold line. 2.5 C1"M
1.59⁄1C6"M
• The overall measurement of the placket is now 21⁄2in,
including the seam allowance.
Step 3
Developing the new armhole, body, and
hem shaping
Shaping the body NNBNPBPAEOOIAETCWTCWICNKCKHTH UNDUENRDAERRM NEW
There is no side seam shaping in this / SIDAERSMEAM FNREOWNT
design because the side back and side PFRITOCNHT
front darts give enough shape to COPRONINERT PNOOITNCTH
the silhouette.
CHEST LIENVEEL 1661⁄4"CM
• Measure 3⁄4in down the side seam and mark. From this
position on the front and back master plan, using your 11.451⁄C2"M 25"CM 23⁄4"CM
basic upper body slopers as a template, trace the new BACK
lowered armhole shape, continuing it up to connect with CENTERER BACK FFRROONNTT GRAINLILINNEE
the shoulders. Draw in the new lowered notch positions. MASTER MASTER CENTERER FRONT
PLAN FOLD
• Create the front dart by measuring 61⁄4in along the chest PPLLAANN
level from the old underarm / side seam corner and mark,
square down and draw a line to connect with the new 1.5 C9⁄1M6" 1.95⁄16C" M SIDE SEAM
hemline. Where this line intersects the waistline measure out WAISTLINE
3⁄8in on both sides and mark. This will become the widest 1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8"CM
part of the dart. Repeat at the new hemline, measuring out
3⁄16in on both sides and mark. Draw in the dart legs from the FOLD
chest level down, connecting all of the above points.
HEMLINE 52.15⁄8"CM
• Create the side back dart by measuring 41⁄2in along the 11.541C⁄2"M NEW HEMLINE
chest level and the original hemline from the center back
and mark. Draw a vertical line to connect these two points. 0.5 3⁄1C6"M
Measure 2in down this new line and mark and up 21⁄8in and 0.5 3⁄C16"M
mark. Where this new line intersects the waistline measure
out 9⁄16in on both sides and mark. This will become the widest you will need to step the hemline down so that it continues in
point of the dart. Draw in the dart legs, connecting all of the a smooth line when the dart is folded. Do this by tracing the
above points. dart legs and the hemline onto a separate piece of paper, fold
the dart, and then redraw the hemline. Cut it out and, when
• Develop the hem shaping from the center front to the side you open up the paper, you will have a template off which to
seam using a French curve. When you reach the front dart trace the step. Continue to draw in the hemline up to the side
seam and then back down to the center back.
short-sleeved safari shirt 127
PBSHOASBTCIOHAIPNKCOUTKLUDLEDRER FSPFSTROHIRHPOOIOONNUNTUTLTLDDEERR FRONT
SHHIGOHUPLDOEINRT
NSHECOKULPDOEINRT
145C⁄8"M
Step 4 93.35⁄4"CM 8 3C1⁄8M" BNPPBNNIAOEATEOCWICCWNTKHKCTH 381⁄C8" M
Developing the front and back yoke shapes NNEEWW 140" CM
FFRROONNTT
• For the back yoke shaping measure 33⁄4in down the center CHEST LEINVEEL NPOITTCCHH
back line and mark, and 31⁄8in from the back shoulder tip POINT
down the armhole and mark. Connect these two points with
a straight line. CENTERRE BACK BBAACCKK FFRRONT GRAINLILINNEE
MASTER MASTER CENTERER FRONT
• For the front yoke measure 31⁄8in down the armhole from the FOLD
front shoulder tip and mark, square across 4in, and mark, PPLLAANN PPLAN
and measure 15⁄8in down the front high point shoulder and
mark. Connect all the above points with straight lines. SIDE SEAM
• Trace off the back yoke onto a separate piece of paper. Next, WAISTLINE
align the back shoulder seam you have just traced with the
front shoulder seam on the master plan and trace off the FOLD
front yoke shape to complete the yoke.
HEMLINE
NEW HEMLINE
Step 5
Yoke pattern
• Trace off the yoke onto a new piece of paper and, following
the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
R NSFEHRCOOKUNPLTODIENRT
4 CM
IN LINE BNNAOBOACTTCKCCKHH YOKE GGRRAAIINNLILINENE NBNBOAOATCCTCKKHCH
CENTRE FRONT CUT 1 PR SELF CCEENNTRTEEBRACBKACK
SHOSUHOLUDLEDRERSSEEAAMM SSHHOOUULDLEDRESREASMEAM
FOLD NFORNFTOROCNHOTT CNHT CYUOTK1EPR SELF NFROOTFNNCROOHTTNCTH
FOLD NENECCKKLLIINNEE NNEECCKKLLININE E
128 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 6
Developing the front patch pocket and flap
Front patch pocket shape
The front patch pocket is placed directly
over the side front dart and is 31⁄2in
wide by 41⁄2in long at the lowest point
of its spade shape.
• From the dart point measure out 13⁄4in on both sides along NEW 52" CM 9 CM31⁄2" 13⁄8" CM
the chest level and mark to create the 31⁄2in pocket width. BACK 41.35⁄4"CM 4.153⁄4C" M 3 CM13⁄16"
PITCH
• From these points, square up 13⁄16in and mark. From the same POINT
points, square 23⁄4in down from the chest level and mark.
Measure down 9⁄16in on the dart line and mark. Join all the NEW
above points to create the spade-shaped pocket.
NNFREOOTWNCHT
CHEST LINE FRONT
PITCH
Pocket flap shape POINT
The pocket flap is also spade shaped and
is developed on top of the pocket for 104" CM 273⁄4"CM
fit purposes. The top flap is positioned
3⁄8in above the pocket opening edge.CENTRE BACK 1.5 CM9⁄16" CCENETENRTFRROENTFRONT
SISIDDEESESAEMAM FRMOFNAPTRLSMAOANTSNETETRR F FOOLLDD
BACK
MASTER PLAN
• Measure up 3⁄8in from the center at the top of the pockePtLaAnNd
square out 13⁄4in on both sides and mark. This is the upper FOLD
edge of the pocket flap.
• From the center of this line squaWreAdIoSwTnLI2NinEand mark; this
is the lowest point of the spade shape. Measure 3⁄8in back up
this line, square out 2in on both sides, and mark. Join these
points up to the upper edge of the pocket flap and down to
the lowest point of the spade shape.
HEMLINE
NEW HEMLINE
short-sleeved safari shirt 129
NEW
BACK
PITCH
POINT
CHEST LINE NEW 5 CM 9 CM 1 CM
FRONT 4.5CM 4.5CM 3 CM
PITCH
POINT
Step 7 10 CM 7 CM 0.53⁄1C6"M FFOOLLDD FFOOLLDD 03.⁄516C" M
Pocket patterns FOFOLLDD
CENTRE BACK 1.5 CM CENTRE FRONT 2 CM FAFACCIINNGG 2 CM
NEW 3⁄4" 3⁄4"
BACK
BACK SIDE SEAM FRONT PITCH
POINT
• Following the insMPtALrSATuNERctions CENTRE BACKon pageMASTER trac9 CeM off the pocket FFOOLLDD
PLAN 50,NEW 1 CM POCKET BAG
FRONT CPCOUU20.C5CTMTCMK1E1PTRPBSRAEGLSFELF
PITCH
POINT
patterns, adding a 3⁄8in allowanceCHEST LINE to the5 CM top4.5CM4.5CM of3 CM the pocket
10 CM 7 CM CENTRE FRONTFOLD 0.5 CM FOLD FOLD
2 CM FOLD
flap anWdAISaTLI3N⁄E4in facing plus a ⁄ in seam allowance3 16 BACK1.5 CM to the top FACING
FRONT
MASTER SIDE SEAM MASTER FOLD
PLAN PLAN FOLD
of the pocket bag.
WAISTLINE FOLD POCKET BAG
CUT 1 PR SELF
FOLD GRAIN LINE
HEMLINE HEMLINE GRAIN LINGERAINLINE
NEW HEMLINE
NEW HEMLINE
⁄ "3 18CM ⁄ "1 C3M8
FOFOLLD D FOLD
POCKET FLAP FOLD
1 CM POCKETCUT 2 PR SELF GRAINLGIRAINN LIENE 1 CM
FLAP
CUT 2 PR SELF
FOLD FOLD
POCKET FLAP
CUT 2 PR SELF
GRAIN LINE
BACK
CUT 1 SELF
Step 8 GRAINLILINNEE
Back pattern
• Trace off the back onto a new piece of paper and, following
the instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
1 CM
2.5 CM
2.5 CM
1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
FRONT RIGHT
CUT 1 SELF
130 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
LD
G
1 CM 1 CM Step 9 CENTERRE FRONT
Front pattern CENTRE FRONT
• The right-hand side of the front pattern has a sewn-oFnRONT RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT LEFT FRONT LEFT
placket as a design feature and the left-hand side hasCUaT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 SELF
grown-on placket that is folded back and sewn. Following the
instructions on page 50, trace off the front pattern including GRAIN LINE GRAINLILINNEE BACK GRAIN LINE
the placket to create the left-hand panel, and then retrace CUT 1 SELF
the front panel without the placket development to create
the right-hand panel.
FOLD GRAINLLIINNEE FOLD
FOLD GRAIN LINE FOLD
1 CM
1 CM
31⁄8"CM
21."5 CM
21."5 CM
3⁄18"CM
1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8C" M
Step 10 FOLD
Placket pattern
• Following the instructions on page
50, trace off the placket pattern
separately to be cut with fusing.
GRAINLILINNEE
FPLRAOCNTKELTEFT PLACKET
CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 FUSE
1 C3⁄8M" 13⁄8C" M
1 C3⁄8M"
2.5 C1M"
2.5 C1M"
1 C3⁄8M"
short-sleeved safari shirt 131
Step 11 Step 12
Developing the collar stand Developing the top collar
Measuring half the neck from the master plan Collar shape
We will develop half the collar stand
before creating the full collar stand. There are many variations in collar
By taking measurements from the master shape, both traditional and contemporary.
plan, which is drawn in half, you will Here we are developing a straight collar
be measuring half the neck measurement. shape. Again, only half of this pattern
• On the master plan measure the length will be drafted.
of the back neck, in this case 31⁄2in, • Trace off the stand shape from Step 11 onto another piece
and the front neck from the shoulder
tip down past the center front of paper.
line to the point at which the
placket finishes when folded, • Continue the center back line vertically up 3in from the top
in this case 61⁄4in.
• Add these two measurements together of the stand, square across 91⁄2in, and make a mark. This is
to give half the neck measurement,
in this case 93⁄4in. the collar point. Connect this point back down to the center
• On a new piece of piece of paper, draw a rectangle measuring front line with a straight line. You have now created the basic
93⁄4in by 1in, which is the half neck measurement by the
width of the collar stand. Label the narrow side as the center top collar shape.
back neck and the long side as the neckline.
• At the collar point measure up 3⁄8in from the front edge of
• From the center back neck, measure 31⁄2in (the half back
neck measurement) along the bottom line of the rectangle the collar extend the front edge of the collar by 3⁄8in and
and place a notch. Label it the shoulder notch. Repeat along
the top side of the rectangle. draw a curved line back to meet the outer edge. This will
• Measure up 9⁄16in at the front edge of the rectangle and join give the collar a smoother shape.
this point back to the shoulder notch with a slight curve.
• Measure up 1in from the top of the stand along the center
• From the shoulder notch, measure 61⁄4in (the half front neck
measurement) along this curved line. At the front of the back and make a mark. From here, square across to a point
curved line, square up 1in (the width of the collar stand).
Then draw another curved line to connect this line back to above the shoulder notch. From this point draw a curved
the top shoulder notch.
line to meet the center front line, mirroring the curve of
• From the top right corner of the stand measure along 1in (the
width of the placket) and from this point square across to the the stand. This is the inner edge of the 2in-wide top
lower curved line. Label this center front neck. Round off the
top right corner with a slight curve. collar shape. COLLAR
DEVELOPMENT
COLLAR
POINT
31⁄8"CM
5 CM2" CCB CBB SHHOOUULLDDERERNONTOCTHCH
2.5 CM1"
833.⁄58" CM 1661⁄4"CM
CENTER SHOULDER CENTER
BACK NOTCHES FRONT
NECK NECK
2.5 CM1" 83.15⁄2" CM UNDER COLLAR 1616⁄4"CM 21."5 CM
CUT 1 SELF 24.953⁄4C" M 19⁄1.65" CM
NNEECCKKLLINEE
GRAIN LINE
CB NECK
OUTER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
TOP COLLAR
CUT 1 SELF GRAIN LINE
CUT 1 FUSE INNER EDGE OF TOP COLLAR
132 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 13
Collar stand pattern
Top collar pattern
Developing the under collar
• Trace off the collar stand pattern and, following the
instructions on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
• Trace off the top collar pattern and, following the instructions
on page 50, create the full pattern shape.
• The under collar is a copy of the top collar reduced by 1⁄8in
at the center back neck, which is blended back with a line
to both collar points; this reduction, when sewn, will pull the
seam edge under the collar slightly so as not to be seen.
Make a separate pattern for the under collar.
STAND WIDTH STAND WIDTH
COCLOLLALRARSTSATNADND
CCUUTT11PPRRSSEELFLF CUTCU1TFU1SFEUSE
CCFF GRGARINALININLEINE
CB NECK
CCFF
OUOTEURTEERDEGDEGOEFOTFOPTOCPOCLLOALRLAR
TOP COLLAR
CUTT1OPSCELOFLLAR GRAGINRLAININE LINE
CUTCU1 TFU1SSEELF IINNNNEERR EEDDGGEE OOFF TTOOPP CCOOLLLLAARR
CUT 1 FUSE
SHOULDER NOTCH SHOULDER NOTCH
REMOVE 1⁄8" OUTER EDGE OF STAND
UCNUDTUCEN1URDSTCEE1ROLSFLCELOLAFLRLAR GRAIGNRLAININE LINE
INNER EDGE OF STAND
CB NECK
short-sleeved safari shirt 133
Step 14
Developing the shoulder epaulet and sleeve tab
• For the sleeve tab, draw a rectangle 1in wide by 85⁄8in long. square across for the fold line. The tab on the sleeve that the
• Create the point at the end of the tab by measuring 3⁄8in sleeve tab folds over is prebought herringbone cotton tape.
• For the shoulder epaulets draw a vertical rectangle 1in wide
back down both long sides of the rectangle and then joining and 41⁄2in long. Follow the instructions for the sleeve tab, but
these two points back to a central point. with a 9⁄16in seam allowance and no fold line.
• At the other end of the rectangle, measure in 3⁄8in and
square across for the seam allowance, and a further 1in and
22 CM
FOLD FOLD 85⁄8" GRAIN LINE
2.5 CM
SLEEVE TAB SLEEVE TAB
CUT 2 PR SELF CUT 2 PR SELF
FFOOLLDD 2.5 CM SLEEVE TAB 1 CM
FFOOLLDD 1 CM CUT 2 PR SELF
1"
GRAIGNLRIANIEN LINE
1" 11.5 CM 3⁄8"
2.5 CM
31⁄8"CM
41⁄2"
FOLD SHOULDER EPAULET GRAINLLININEE 12".5 CM
CUT 2 PR SELF 11.5 CM
SHOULDER EPAULETE
CUT 2 PR SELF
FOLD SHOULDER EPAULETE GRAIN LINE 2.5 CM
CUT 2 PR SELF
19⁄1.65" CM 31⁄8"CM
1.5 CM 1 CM
TOP OF
SLCEREOWVNEPCOIANTP
BAPBCIATKCCHK NFFPPRIOROTOCINONTHTTCNHT
NOTPOCINHT
BICEPS LEVEL
UNDER ARM LINE
Step 15 BACBAKCKSSLLEEEVEE VE CENTRE LINE FMRAOSFMNRTAOTSENTTESRRSLLPPEELEALVENAEVNE
Developing the sleeve master plan MAMSATSTEERR PPLALNAN
Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve BACKUNUDENRDAREMRSAERAMM SEAM CENTER LINE FROUNNDTERUANRMD SEERAAMRM SEAM
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper
slightly longer than the length of the shirt you want to develop
and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks, labels, and
instructions, following the directions on page 48. The design
illustrated has a short sleeve with turned-up cuff.
HCUEFMF HLEINM E
134 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 16 TCORPOOWFN
Developing the sleeve with a reduced SLEPEOVIENTCAP
sleeve cap
2 C3⁄M4" SLEEVE HCEAAPD
Measurements for developing the sleeve HEIGHT
You will need three measurements to 21705 C⁄8"M 1207 5C⁄8"M
develop the sleeve:
1. Half the armhole measurement—measure 21.7851⁄2C" M BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE 8.5
2811⁄2."75 CM NEW BACK
the new armhole on the front and UNDERARM
back patterns. In this case the front BBAACCKK SLLEEEEVVEE FROFNRTOSNLTESELEVEEVE POINT
armhole is 101⁄4in and the back 11in. MMAASSTTERRPPLLAANN MASMTAESRTEPRLPALNAN
Add these measurements together
(211⁄4in) and divide in half, BACUKNDUENRDAERRMARSEMASMEAM
making 105⁄8in. CENTERER ILINNEE
2. Half the biceps measurement—measure
the biceps width from the master FURNODNETRAURNMDESREAARMM SEAM
plan. In this case it is 14in. As
this is a casual-fitting shirt you
can determine the amount of ease
according to the design. In this case
we will add 3in ease to the biceps
measurement, making 17in. Divide this
measurement in half, making 81⁄2in.
3. Half the cuff measurement, which in
this case is 175⁄8in.
• Measure 3⁄4in down the center line from the top of the sleeve TCORPOOWFN
cap to reduce the height of the sPCOlReIONeWTvNe cap by the same SLEPEOVIENTCAP
amount that you lowered the armhole in Step 3.
• At an angle from the new top of the sleeve cap, draw out SLEEVE HEAD 1.3 C1⁄2M"
a line measuring half the new armh2oClMe—105⁄8in. From the HEIGHT
center line, draw out a line measuring half the new biceps 25"CM 273C⁄4"M 11⁄2."3 CM
measurement—81⁄2in27. CAMdjust these lines until27tChMey meet to
form a triangle and repeat on the other side of the sleeve. 8.533 C⁄8"M
This will become the frame around which you construct the 03⁄1.65" CM 0.5 C3⁄1M6" 263C⁄8"M
new shortened sleeve cap. UNDERARM LINE BUINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE
21.75 CM 21.75 CM
Step 17 BACK SLEEVE FRONT SLEEVE NEW BACK BBAACCKKSLSELEEVEEVE FROFNRTONSTLSELEEVEEVE NEW FRONT
MASTER PLAN MASTER PLAN SULNEDEEVREARM MMAASSTETREPRLPALNAN MAMSTAESRTEPRLPALNAN USLNEDEEVREARM
PCOIRNNTER PCOOIRNNTER
Completing the new sleeve shape AT BICEPS AT BICEPS
LEVEL LEVEL
• Shape the sleeve cap by measuring 23⁄4in from the new top
of the sleeve cap along the diagonal line toward the new
front sleeve corner at biceps level, square out 1⁄2in, and mark.
Then measure 23⁄8in up along the diagonal line from the
front corner of the sleeve at biceps level, square 3⁄16in down,
and mark. On the back measure 2in down the diagonal line
from the sleeve cap top, square out 1⁄2in, and mark; measure
33⁄8in up along the diagonal line from the back sleeve corner
at biceps level, square down 3⁄16in, and mark.
• Using a French curve draw in shallow raised curves from the
new top of the sleeve cap through the marks on the upper
portion of the sleeve cap, reversing the curves at the marks
on the lower portion of the sleeve cap, and finishing these
hollow curved lines at the corners of the sleeve at biceps
level. Add in the notches taken from the body panels.
UNDERARM SEAM
CENTRE INE
UNDERARM SEAM
BACK UNDERARM SEAM
CENTERER ILINNEE
FRONTUUNNDEDERARARRMMSSEEAAMM
short-sleeved safari shirt 135
CROWN NEW TOP OF
POINT NSELWEECVREOCWANP POINT
SLEEVE HEAD 1.3 CM 5 CM 7 CM 1.3 CM
HEIGHT
Step 18
ShortenING the sleeve 251.05" CM
8.5 CM
of 0t.h5 CeMsleevUeNcDaERpAmRMeLaINsEu0r.5eC1M0in 6 CM BUINCDEEPRSARM LEINVEEL
the top
• From down the center SHO
CUT
line and square out 75⁄8in on both sides. This is the new cuff
hNeEWmBwACiKdth. Join the ends of this line back up to theNEcWoFrRnOeNrTs 19.2755⁄8C" M 19.2755⁄8C" M 12."5 CM
oPUfONIDtNhETReARsMleeve aMtBAAbSCiTKcESReLPEpLEsAVNElevel with a cFMuRAOrSNvTTEeRS.LPELEAVNE UNDERARM CUCFFUFHFEMHELIMNE FOLD 21."5 CM
POINT
FFAACCININGG FOLD FOLD 12".5 CM
• To add the folded cuff to the cuff hem, measure 1in up from 13⁄C8"M
FOLD
this line, and square acroEsLsB,OdWraLIwNEing a dotted line to meet BBAACCKK SSLLEEEEVVEE CENTERRE LINE FRFORNOTNTSSLLEEEEVVEE
MMAASSTTEERR PPLLAANN MMASATSETERRPPLLAANN
the lines at the sides. This is the line to which the cuff will
UNDERARM SEAM
CENTRE INE
UNDERARM SEAM
fold up. From the cuff hem continue to measure down 1in and
square across with another dotted line, the same width as
the first dotted line. Measure a further 1in down and square
across with a line the same width as the cuff hem. Join all
these points at the sides.
• Add a further 3⁄8in seam to the end.
Blending a seam
To find out how to create the steps in
the curved underarm seam so that it is
smooth when the cuff is folded, try
folding the pattern and then drawing in
the curve of the underarm seam. Either
trim the seam with the paper still folded
or mark with a tracing wheel, before
opening out the pattern.
NEW CROWN POINT
Step 19
SHOrt Sleeve pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the 25.5 CM GRAINLLI INNEE
UNDERARM LINE
CM sleeve pattern.
SHORT SLEEVE
EW FRONT 19.25 CM FOLD 19.25 CM 2.5 CM CUT 1 PR SELF FOLD
NDERARM CUFF HEMLINE FOLD 2.5 CM FOLD
OINT FOLD FOLD
FACING FOLD 2.5 CM FOLD
1 CM FOLD
FOLD
BACK SLEEVE CENTRE LINE FRONT SLEEVE
MASTER PLAN MASTER PLAN
136 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
short-sleeved safari shirt 137
pattern
Bib shirt
This pattern includes development CHEST LIENVEEL PBPBNAIOATOCICCNTKHKCTH
of the following features: BACK MASTER FRONT
Shaping the body NPIOTTCCHH
Creating a concealed front placket PLAN POINT
Adding length to the body
Shaping the hem with a lowered back FRONT MASTER
Creating a pleated bib panel PPLLAANN
Creating a mandarin collar CENTREER BACK
Lowering the armhole SIDEE SSEEAAMM
Widening the sleeve cap GRAINLLIINNEE
Developing a cuff with cuff guard
CENTREER FRONT
Step 1
Developing the master plan WAISTLINE
Start by selecting the basic men’s upper body sloper, or by HIPLLIENVEEL
drafting the basic sloper according to the instructions on page
40. Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than the
length of the shirt you want to develop and transfer the shape
of the sloper and all marks, labels, and instructions, following
the directions on page 48.
138 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
CM 12."5 CM
CM
Step 2 BNPPBAAOIOTCCITCNKKCHTH 11..""2255
Developing the left placket and the concealed FRONT
right placket and adding length to the body CENTERRE BACK CHEST LEINVEEL NPIOTTCCHH SIDE SEAM GRAINLLIINNEE
BACK MASTER POINT CENTERER FRONT
• The hem shape in this design has a lowered back. On the
front body extend the center front and side seam lines down PLAN FRONT MASTER
23⁄8in from the hemline and square across. PPLLAANN
• On the back body, extend the center back and side seam lines WAISTLINE
down 31⁄2in from the hemline and square across.
• From the center front neck point measure back 1⁄2in along
the neckline and mark, and measure out 1⁄2in and mark.
Repeat this at the new hemline and connect these points
with straight lines. This will become the right placket width
of 1in.
• From the outer line measure out another 1in at the neckline
and mark; repeat at the hemline and join these points with
straight lines. This will become the underside of the placket.
HEMLINE 9 3C1M⁄2" 623C⁄8"M 62C3⁄M8"
931C⁄2"M
2.5 C1"M
2.5 C1"M
Step 3 Step 4
Front right placket pattern Concealed left placket pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the placket • Trace off the placket shape from the front body twice
shape you have just developed onto a separate piece of more and position the two plackets side by side. Add 3⁄8in
paper, adding 3⁄8in seam allowance on all sides to create the seam allowance on all sides to create the final left placket
final front right placket pattern. pattern. The concealed placket is made by folding the placket
together in the directions indicated by the arrows.
31⁄8"CM 1 CM 3⁄18"CM
12."5 CM 2.5 CM 21."5 CM
12."5 CM 1 C2.M5 CM 21."5 CM
31⁄8"CM 2.51CCMM 21."5 CM
2.5 CM 21."5 CM
2.5 CM 3⁄18"CM
2.5 CM
1 CM
1 CM 1 CM
1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8C" M 1 CM 1 C3⁄8M" 13⁄8C" M
1.25 CM 1 CM CONCEALEDPLLEAFCTKPELTACKET
1.25 CM 1.25 CM CONCEALEDPLACKET CUT 11SSEELLFF
1.25 CM BACK 2.5 CM CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 FUSE
2.5 CMPITCH CUT 1 FUSE
POINT
FOLD FOLD
FRONT
PITCH FOLD LINE FOLD LINE FOLD FOLD FOLD
POINT FOLD
ER FRONT MASTER GRAIN LINE ATTACH TO SHIRT RIGHT SIDE UP ATTACH TO SHIRT RIGHT SIDE UP
PLAN CENTRE FRONT
GRAIN LINE GRAINLLIINNEE SEFAOMLD
CENTRE FRONT GRAIN LINE FOLD GRAINLILINNEE SEAM
GRAIN LINE
SIDE SEAM
FOLD FOLD ILLUSTRATION OF THE END OF THE
FOLDED CONCEALED PLACKET
2.5 CFMRONT LRIEGFTHTPLPLAACCKEKTET FRONT LEFT PLACKET FOLD FOLD FOLD
2.5 CCMUT 1 SELF CUT 1 FUSE CUT 1 SELF CUT 1 FUSE FOLD
6 CM 9 CM 6 CM 6 CM FOLD FOLD
1 3C⁄8M"
2.5 CM 13⁄8C" M 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 CM 1 C3⁄M8" 13⁄8C" M
2.5 CM
1 3⁄C8"M
1 3C⁄8"M 1 CM 2.5 C1"M
2.5 C1"M 2.5 CM 2.5 C1"M
2.5 C1"M 2.15CCMM 2.5 C1"M
2.51CCMM 2.5 C1"M
1 3C⁄8"M 2.5 CM
2.5 CM 1 3⁄C8"M
2.5 CM
1 CM
bib shirt 139
5 C2"M FRONT
HIGH POINT
Step 5 NEW SHOULDER
Developing the new armhole, BNAECWK
bib, and hem shaping PBITACCHK CENTER FRONT
PNOOINTTCH NECK POINT
• Measure 3⁄4in down the side seam and make a mark. From
this position on the front and back master plan, using your CHEST LEINVEEL NFNNFPPREORIOETOWTOWICNCNNHTTHT 825⁄28"CM
basic upper body slopers as a template, trace the new BACK
lowered armhole shape, continuing it up to connect with the 23⁄4C" M 6.251C⁄2"M
shoulders. Transfer the back and front notches to their MASTER FRONT
new positions on the lowered armhole. PLAN
MMAASSTTEERR
• The bib shape is developed on the front body master plan by PLAN
measuring 85⁄8in down from the center front neck point, then
squaring across 21⁄2in. CENTECREBNTARCEK BACK SIDE SEAM CENTERRE FRONT
• Next measure 2in down the front shoulder seam from the WAISTLINE
front high point shoulder. Connect this point to the line you
drew previously. Draw in a shallow curve connecting the two GRAINLINE
lines at the bottom.
HEMLINE
• Redraw the hemline with a French curve from the new
lowered center front up to the side seam on the original
hemline and back down to the lowered hemline at the
center back.
Step 6 PPBNBIAOAOTCCICTNKKCHTH
Developing the body shaping
CHEST LEINVEEL FRONT
• To develop the side seam, measure out 3⁄8in in both BACK PNIOTCTCHH
directions where the side seam intersects the waistline. POINT
MASTER
• Connect both these points with straight lines up to the new PPLLAANN FRONT
underarm / side seam corner and down to the hemline at the MMAASSTTEERR
bottom of the side seam.
PPLLAANN
• From the center back measure 3⁄8in along the waistline. CENTERER BACK
From this point draw a straight line to the intersection SIDE SEAM
of the chest level and the center back, and another line
down to the new hemline. GRAINLLIINNEE
CENTREER FRONT
31⁄8"CM WAISTLINE 1 C3M⁄8"
13⁄8"CM
OLD HEMLINE
140 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
1.25 CM
1.25 CM
Step 7 FRONT GRAINLLIINNEE BACK GRAINLILINNEE
Front pattern CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the front
body pattern.
Step 8
back pattern
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the back
body pattern.
1⁄1.2"25 CM Step 9 Pleating 0.6 CM
1⁄12."25 CM Developing the pleated bib panel 0.6 CM
1⁄12."25 CM In a production scenario pleating would 0.6 CM
1⁄12."25 CM.6 CM always be sourced from a professional 0.6 CM
1⁄12."25 CM pleater. The fabric would arrive pre-
1⁄12."25 CM pleated to your requirements, at which
1⁄12."25 CM stage the patterns for the pleated panels
1⁄12."25 CM would be cut. The steps described here
show how you can investigate pleating
ratios yourself.
0.61⁄4C" M 1.25 CM
1.25 CM
11⁄.22" 5 CM
• Trace off the bib shape from the master
plan onto a separate piece of paper.
• Decide on the type of pleats and their
ratio. In this design we have ten knife
pleats at a distance of 1⁄2in apart, with
a fold between each pleat of 1⁄2in (1⁄4in
when folded).
• On another piece of paper, draw out the
pleating scheme and then fold the paper
into the pleats.
• With the paper still folded, place the
center front of the bib shape against the
edge of the first pleat and draw around
the shape. Still with the paper folded,
cut out the shape and then open up the
paper to reveal the pattern for the pleated
bib shape.
bib shirt 141
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 C1⁄4M"
0.6 CM
0.6 CM
0.6 CM
0.6 CM
.25 CM 0.6 CM 0.6
0.6
Step 10 0.6
Pleated bib pattern 0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
BIB CUT 1 PR SELF
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace around the
pleated shape to create the bib pattern.
PLEAT FOLD
DIRECTION
Step 11
Developing the mandarin collar
Measuring half the neck from the master plan • On a new piece of piece of paper, draw a rectangle measuring
97⁄8in by 1in, which is the half neck measurement by the
We will develop half the collar before width of the mandarin collar. Label the narrow side as the
creating the full collar. By taking center back neck and the long side as the neckline.
measurements from the master plan, which
is drawn in half, you will be measuring • From the center back neck, measure 35⁄8in (the half back
half the neck measurement. neck measurement) along the bottom line of the rectangle
• On the master plan measure the length and place a notch. Label it the shoulder notch. Repeat along
the top line of the rectangle.
of the back neck, in this case 35⁄8in,
and the front neck from the shoulder • Measure up 9⁄16in at the front edge of the rectangle and join
tip down past the center front line this new point back to the shoulder notch with a slight curve.
to the point at which the placket
finishes, in this case 61⁄4in. • From the shoulder notch, measure 61⁄4in (the half front neck
• Add these two measurements together measurement) along this curved line. At the front of the
to give half the neck measurement, curved line, square up 1in (the width of the mandarin collar).
in this case 97⁄8in. Then draw another curved line to connect this line back to
the top shoulder notch.
• From the top right corner of the stand measure along 1in (the
width of the placket) and from this point square across to the
lower curved line. Label this center front neck. Round off the
top right corner with a slight curve.
CEENNTTERRE SHHOOUULLDDEERR CCEENNTTERRE
BAACCKK NOTTCCHHEESS FRROONNTT
NNEECCKK NNEECCKK
2.5 CM1" 9 3C5⁄M8" 6116⁄4"CM 12".5 CM
2957⁄8C" M 91⁄1.65" CM
NEECCKKLLININEE
142 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
CENTRE SHOULDER CENTRE
BACK NOTCHES FRONT
NECK NECK
Step 12 2.5 CM 9 CM 16 CM 2.5 CM
Mandarin collar pattern 1.5 CM
• Trace off the mandarin collar onto a new piece of paper 25 CM
and, following the instructions on page 50, create the full NECKLINE
pattern shape.
STAND WIDTH SHOULDER NOTCH SHOULDER NOTCH STAND WIDTH
CF
CB NECK
CF
OUTER EDGE OF STAND
MANDARIN COLLAR GRAINLLIINNEE
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 FUSE
INNER EDGE OF STAND
TOP OCFROSWLNEEPOVINET CAP
NBOATPPBCIOCATKCICNHHKT FPNPFRIOTROOCINONTHTTCNHT
Step 13 BICEUPNSDELREAVRMELLINE CENCTEENTRRLEILINNEE FRONT SLEEVE
Developing the sleeve master plan BACK SLEEVE MAFMSRAOTSNTETERRSLPELPEAVLNEAN
MASBTACEKRSLEPELVEAN
Start this development by selecting the basic men’s sleeve
sloper, or by drafting the basic sleeve sloper according to the MASTER PLAN
instructions on page 42. Cut a large piece of drafting paper
slightly longer than the length of the shirt you want to develop BACK UUNNDDEERARRAMRSEMAMSEAM 61.5 CM NEW SLEEVE LENGTH FRONT UNUNDDEERRAARRMMSESAMEAM
and transfer the shape of the sloper and all marks, labels, and NEW SLEEVE LENGTH
instructions, following the directions on page 48. The design
illustrated is shaped and has a gathered tuck on the back of 241⁄4"
the sleeve for even more shaping. The sleeve sloper that you
have selected might be longer or shorter than the design you NNEEWWCCUFU12F81FHC"FEMMHWEIDMTHWIDTH
are developing. Analyze it by taking a measurement from CUCFUFFFHHEEMM
your fit model or dress form and by consulting the size chart,
or even by using competitors’ garments for comparison. The bib shirt 143
sleeve length is 241⁄4in and the cuff measurement is calculated
by adding 13⁄16in to the wrist measurement of 97⁄8in for a tuck,
making 11in.
CTORPOWOFN
SLPEOEVINETCAP
Step 14 NEW NEW
Developing the sleeve for a lowered armhole BACK FRONT
NPIOTTCCHH NPIOTTCCHH
Having enlarged the sleeve circumference POINT PONT
in Step 5, you will need to check the
length of the sleeve cap and increase UNDSELREAERVME UBINCDEEPRSALREMVELLINE USNLDEEERVAERM
according to the new armhole measurement. CPOIRNNTER COPRONINETR
AT BICEPS 1.5 CM AT BICEPS
Start by measuring the front and back LEVEL 1.5 CM
of the new armhole on the upper body BBAACCKK SSLLEEEEVVEE FFRROONNTTSSLLEEEVEEVE LEVEL
slopers (in this case 10in and 107⁄8in MMAASSTTEERRPPLLAANN MMAASSTTEERRPLPALNAN
respectively). Add these measurements
together (207⁄8in) and then measure the BACK UNDERARM SEAM CENTERRE LINE FRONUTNUDNEDREARRAMR SMESAEMAM
sleeve cap (201⁄8in). The sleeve cap,
therefore, needs to be increased by
3⁄4in and not beyond, allowing for the
amount of ease.
3⁄01.6"5 CM
• Extend the biceps level out 9⁄16in on both sides so that the NEW CUFF HEMLINE 0.5 C3⁄16M"
CUFF HEMLINE
new sleeve cap measures 207⁄8in, the same measurement as
the new armhole.
• Using the basic sleeve sloper as a template, redraw the
new sleeve cap shape, and indicate the new lowered
notch positions.
• To create the shaping at the bottom of the sleeve, measure
down 3⁄16in on the back sleeve from the center of the new
cuff hemline and mark this point. On the front sleeve,
measure up 3⁄16in from the center of the new cuff hemline
and mark this point. Join the points with a curved line that TOP OCFRSOLWENEVE
is convCPeORxOINWoTNn the back sleeve and then reverses at the center PCOAINPT
line so that it is concave on the front.
• Now draw in the new underarm seam lines to create the BACK
NPIOTTCCHH
NEW sleeve shape. NEW POINT
BACK FRONT
PITCH PITCH FRONT
POINT PONT NPOITTCCHH
PONT
UNDERARM LINE UNDSELREEAVREM BIUCNEDPESRLAERVMELLINE USNLDEEERVAERM
CPORINNTER COPRONINETR
1.5 CM 1.5 CM UNDERARM AT BICEPS BBAACCKKSLSELEEVEEVE FFRROONNTT SSLLEEEEVVE E AT BICEPS
POINT LEVEL MMAASSTETREPRLPALNAN MMAASSTTEERRPPLALANN
LEVEL
BACK SLEEVE FRONT SLEEVE
MASTER PLAN MASTER PLAN
Step 15 UNDERARM SEAM
DEVELOPING the sleeve BACK UNDERARM SEAM
UNDERARM SEAM • From the back underarm seam line measure in 31⁄8in alongCENTRE LINEUNDERARM SEAM 611⁄64"CM
the new cuff hem and square up 61⁄4in. This is the cut line for CENTERRE LINE
the cuff guard. Measure in a further 15⁄8in and mark, then
a further 13⁄16in and mark. This will become the tuck. FRONT UNDERARM SEAM
UNDERARM SEAM
0.5 CM TUCK
NEW CUFF HEMLINE 831C⁄8"M 41C5⁄8M" 313C⁄16M" NEW CUFF HEMLINE
CUFF HEMLINE
0.5 CM OCULDFFCHUEFMF LHIENMELINE
144 Chapter three the patterns: shirts
Step 16 SLLEEEEVVEE GGRRAIAINLNINLIENE
Sleeve pattern CUUTT11PPRRSESLEFLF
• Following the instructions on page 50, trace off the
sleeve pattern.
Step 17 • On a separate piece of paper, draw a box 91⁄2in long by 51⁄2in
Developing the cuff wide to create a rectangular-shaped cuff.
Measuring the cuff • Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line across the
The cuff is a double pattern piece that center, and label it fold.
is sewn onto the end of the sleeve and
turned inside out. The cuff shape will
start and finish at the guard opening.
Measure this width from the pattern
(11in) and deduct 13⁄16in for the tuck and
3⁄8in for the seam allowance on the cuff
guard opening, making 91⁄2in.
27 3C⁄4M" SLSELEEEVVEECCUFUF FF 912⁄25"CM GRGARIAINNLILINNEE
27 3C⁄4M" FFOOLDLDLINE
CUCCTUUTT111PPPRRRFSSUESLEFELF
CUT 1 PR FUSE
bib shirt 145
TOP EDGE 2 3C⁄4M" 2 3C⁄4"M
21."5 CM23⁄C4"M
1 3⁄C8"M
FOLD LINE 13⁄8C"M
FOLD LINE
FOLD LINE
Step 18
Developing the top cuff guard FOFLODLLIDNE
FOFLODL LDINE
• On a separate piece of paper create a rectangular box 61⁄4in FOFLODL LDINE
long by 23⁄8in wide.
16 CM
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw down the center, GRAIN LINE
and label it fold.
161⁄64"CM
• At each end square out 3⁄4in up and 3⁄4in down from the fold GRAINLILINNEE
line and mark. Join these points with straight lines. This will
leave you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side. BOTTOM CUFF GAURD TOP CUFF GUAAURD
CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 PR SELF
• From the top left corner measure 1in down the long side of
the rectangle and square across 3⁄4in. This small rectangular 1 3C⁄8M" 23⁄C4"M 2 C3⁄4M" 1 3C⁄8M"
shape will be removed from the pattern.
62C3⁄8M"
• From the top right corner measure 3⁄8in down the long side of BOTTOM EDGE STITCHED
the rectangle and mark, and measure 3⁄4in across the short
side and mark. Join these points with an angled line. TO CUFF
• Now measure 3⁄8in down along the right edge of the TOP EDGE
rectangle you drew in the top left corner an1 CdMjoin th4 iCsMpoint1 CM 2 CM
to the top of the first angled line to give a pointed shape to 2.5 CM
the top of the cuff guard. FOFLDOLLIDNE 1 CM
FOFLDOLLIDNE
Step 19 FOFLDOLLIDNE
Developing the bottom cuff guard
FOLD LINE
• Create a rectangular box 61⁄4in by 23⁄8in.
• Divide the box in half lengthways, draw a line down the 611⁄64"CM
GRAINLLIINNEE
center, and label it fold.
• At each end square out 3⁄4in up and 3⁄4in down from the fold
line and mark. Join these points with straight lines. This will
leave you with a 3⁄8in seam allowance on each long side.
16 CM
BOTTOM CUFF GAUUARD
CUT 1 PR SELF
13⁄C8"M 415C⁄8"M 1 3C⁄8M"
146 Chapter three the patterns: shirts 1 CM 2 C
BOTTO
bib shirt 147
TheCHAPTER FOUR
Patterns:
PANTS
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Patternmaking for menswear ( PDFDrive )
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