PROCEEDING INDONESIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE
(International Conference)
3rd Edtion Volume 1 2019
TEXTILE 4.0
CLOTHING & BEYOND
4.0
ITC Vol.03 No.1 Pages 1 - 335 Bandung, July 2019 ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
POLITEKNIK STTT BANDUNG
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
PROCEEDING BOOK OF
PROCEEDING INDONESIAN TEXTILE
CONFERENCE
“TEXTILE 4.0 CLOTHING & BEYOND “
(International Conference)
Bandung, 27 July 2019
Publisher:
Penerbit Politeknik STTT Bandung
Kementerian Perindustrian RI
Indonesia
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
INTRODUCTION
Dear participants,
Welcome to the 3rd Indonesian Textile Conference (ITC) 2019. It is our great honor and pleasure to
have you all here today.
Indonesian Textile Conference is by far the only scientific event in the field of textiles in Indonesia
aimed to bring together leading researchers, experts, students and people from the industry to share
their knowledge and exchange scientific ideas. Indonesia is one of the leading textile exporter
countries in the world with a total export value of USD 15.3 billion in 2015 and ranked the third after
palm oil and steel (source: Ministry of Industry of Republic of Indonesia). It is one of the ten priority
industries and the mainstay of Indonesian national industry. In a global economy and fast changing
world, the future of Indonesian textile industry will increasingly depend on the industry’s ability to
relentlessly innovate in its products, to use the most advanced, flexible and resource-efficient
processes and to focus its organizational structure as well as business operations according to the ever
changing and growing needs of its customers. In all that, research and innovation are vital and play
an ever increasing role. Indonesian Textile Conference was initiated and is dedicated to promote and
bring progress to research and innovation in the field of textile and textile-related subjects in
Indonesia.
Textile is a rich multidisciplinary area of study and in fact has attracted a great deal of attention and
numerous contributions from non-textile scientists. It is not just about clothing. It is all about material
and all aspects that are inherent in the process of its production and applications. It covers a whole lot
of area which includes but not limited to: advanced material and textile fibers, natural fibers and
natural dyes, utilization of natural sources for textiles in general and/or functional textiles,
environmental protection and ecological considerations in textile industry, life cycle analysis,
clean/green production, best practices in energy efficient processes, bio-based polymer, bio-
engineering, nanotechnology, textile-based composites, industrial management and engineering,
traditional textiles and batik, textile preservation and conservation, and design. Smart, functional and
interactive textile is another area of interest which is quite recent and resulted from the convergence
of latest developments in material science, physics and chemistry, microelectronics and informatics.
Stimuli responsive materials, self-healing polymers, textile energy devices, textile sensor and antenna
are only a few examples of development in this area. Recently added to this is a new emerging
“fashionable technology”. It is a new concept that brings fashion to the next level by integrating
technology and fashion. It looks at the future fashion as intersection of design, fashion, science, and
technology beyond wearable technology.
Still another important and interesting issue in textile is sustainability, especially due to the stigma
associated with the industry as the big polluter and being not environmentally-friendly. Sustainable
textiles and clothing involves the choice of materials, technologies and processing methods
that ensure environmental and social friendliness and safety to human health throughout the entire
life-cycle phases. Thus, there is an ample room for almost everyone to contribute in this conference.
On behalf of the Organizing Committee and the management of Politeknik STTT Bandung, have a
productive and fruitful conference.
Asril Senoaji Soekoco
Chair of the Organising Committee
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Weaving the Future of Indonesian Textile
The development of textile science and technology or even its application in the industry has long
shifted significantly. From merely technology on fiber, yarn and fabric for clothing, the passion for
research and development in textile industry and technology have expanded to other areas of
functional applications such as carpet, shoes, furniture, home textiles, medical, agriculture, even
heavy manufacture industry such as transportation, construction, etc. The expansion of the
application area for textile and textile products has been seriously developed and predicted to be the
focus area in the future. In other words, playing ball in a new park, is inevitable in the development
of textile science and technology in the future. This development has inspired particularly
academicians, researchers, students and mostly practitioners in the industry.
The concept of environmentally friendly is another fundamental issue in the recent textile industry
development. In the last few decades, other than the issue of profitability, environmental issues are
getting stronger and becoming more and more important. Several countries that make textile their
core-industry, are on a decline due to the problem caused by heavy pollution, resulted from the
textile industrial process. That problem has forced the government to enact regulations concerning
environmental pollution. Among the government’s role to support textile industry with
environmental friendly concept is to provide financial incentive and tax exemption also to urge the
industry to be able to self-declare, which is declaring itself free from dangerous chemical substances.
Another expected result is for the industry to be able to innovate in the form of renewable technology
through an environmental friendly concept on each and every process from upstream down to the
downstream.
It was predicted that until the year 2025, the national textile industry of Indonesia will still be
developed as labor-intensive manufacture industry. Nevertheless, in order for the industry to survive
and thrive in the future and maintain its competitiveness it needs to be supported by an integrated
research and development program focusing on innovation and by skillful knowledge workers.
In this regard, it is obvious that universities along with research centers are strategic partners for the
government and the industry. Politeknik STTT Bandung (formerly School of Textile Technology) as
the state owned and the only textile higher educational institution in Indonesia holds a big
responsibility to push forward the development of Indonesia’s textile technology and industry, to be
more competitive, independent and sustainable. To reach the intended goal, a scientific forum is
required to amass experts from connected scientific branches and function to accommodate the
researchers, academicians, students and practitioners on discussing and exchanging ideas, thus
creating a synergy that brings progress for all those involved.
Indonesian Textile Conference (ITC) is initiated and established to become a forum that brings
together the expertise and research results from textile and closely-related different fields with
particular focus on Indonesia. This forum will be the window to see the world’s textile development,
especially from developed countries, by presenting guest speakers from the world’s leading textile
research centers and also participating speakers from abroad. Meanwhile, ITC is also longed to take a
role as one of the main reference in Indonesia’s textile development. The collected research results
provide valuable information and data to map the development of textile related science and
technology in Indonesia and its interrelationships. The mapping would be crucial particularly when
connected to the policy making on the development of national textile industry. Mostly on deciding
its course, focus and funding, correspondingly its human resource management. Consequently, ITC
will give a real contribution and will provide answers for the development of Indonesia’s textile
technology and industry.
Indonesian Textile Conference (ITC) is held once every two years (biennially). The first conference
was held in Bandung, on August 21, 2014 under the name of Seminar Nasional Tekstil 2014, which
was organized by School of Textile Technology (now Politeknik STTT Bandung) and fully supported
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3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
by Indonesian Ministry of Industry. The conference was attended by more than 300 participants from
academia and industry with 30 papers and 5 poster presentations. In order to attract more
international participation, the conference changes its name to Indonesian Textile Conference (ITC)
and becomes the Indonesian international textile conference. This is by far the only periodical
conference in textile science and technology in Indonesia. It is still in its infancy but we believe that it
will grow and play an instrumental role both regionally and globally.
Textiles: Clothing & Beyond
Textile has been narrowly understood as just fabric and clothing, but actually is more than that.
Textile is fabric with unique characteristic, differ from other materials. It is flexible but also has
strength and toughness. Its applications filled our days and cling to us from cradle to the grave.
People don’t realize that textiles and its products has long been used in industry, health, military,
transportation, construction, architecture and also infrastructure supports. The central theme is
chosen to remind the extent coverage of textile application and hence an invitation for anyone having
interest and involvement in the field.
Toward Sustainable Textiles and Clothing: Eco-Friendly Materials, Technologies, and Processing
Methods
Sustainability is no longer a new concept in any industrial sector, including textile and clothing
industry. In fact, it is one of the important agendas of today’s textiles and clothing sector. The textile
and clothing sector consists of a fairly long supply chain, starting with fiber formation and ending at
the apparel production and consisting of many intermittent stages. Nearly half of the life-cycle of
textile products is occupied by this lengthy supply chain, whereas the rest is left to the consumers in
terms of use and disposal stages. Sustainable textile product is the one that is created, produced,
transported, used, and disposed of with the due consideration to environmental impacts,
social aspects, and economic implications, thereby satisfying all three pillars of sustainability:
economic growth, environmental protection, and social equality. Having said that, the choice of
materials, technologies and processing methods in creating textile products are of utmost
importance to ensure environmental and social friendliness and safety to human health throughout
the entire life-cycle phases. A sustainable textile product should begin and end its life-cycle as
smoothly as possible without harming the environment and human beings.
The sub-theme of sustainability is chosen to be the focus of ITC 2019 to reflect and support the
Indonesian national policy on industrial development which puts strong emphasis on sustainability
as one of the main characteristics of future Indonesian industry. It is stated in the State
Legislation No. 3 Year 2014 on Industry that the goal of Indonesian national industry is “to realize
self-sustaining industry, which is competitive, advanced and green”. Furthermore, textile industry
has been classified as one of the ten priority and mainstay industries in the Master Plan for the
Development of National Industry 2015-2035 (Rencana Induk Pembangunan Industri Nasional 2015-2035)
where, again, sustainability is one the pillars.
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
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3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
ABOUT ITC
Editorial Team
Chairman
1. Asril Senoaji Soekoco, M.T Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Scientific Committee
1. Karlina Somantri, Politeknik, M.M. STTT Bandung, Indonesia
2. Dr.Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
People
Reviewer
Tina Martina Rachmat, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Dr. Mohamad Widodo, Politeknik STTT Bandung
Dr Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra, M.Sc., S.Si, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Prof. Dr. Nurindah Nurindah, Indonesian Sweetener and Fiber Crops Research Institute, Indonesian Agency for
Agricultural Research and Development, Indonesia
Salam Titiek Yulianti, Indonesian Sweetener and Fibre Crops Research Institute, Indonesia
Mutiara Triwiswara, Balai Besar Kerajinan dan Batik, Indonesia
Mrs Diana Ross Arief, M.A., Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Mrs Maya Komalasari Komalasari, MT, Politechnic STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Mr Achmad Ibrahim Makki, Politeknik STTT Bandung
Kuswinarti Sudjono
Dimas Kusumaatmadja, Politeknik STTT, Indonesia
Karlina Somantri, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
wulan safrihatini atikah, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Atin Sumihartati, Politeknik STTT Bandung
Mr Ikhwanul Muslim SST., MT., Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Mr. Nandang Setiawan, Indonesia
Editor :
Asril Senoaji Soekoco, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Karlina Somantri, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Dr. Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Managing Editor
Asril Senoaji Soekoco, M.T. Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Dr Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra, M.Sc., S.Si, Politeknik STTT Bandung, Indonesia
Publisher:
Penerbit Politeknik STTT Bandung
Mailing Address :
Gd. Manunggal
Jl. Jakarta No. 31 Bandung , 40272, Indonesia
Phone: (022) 7272580 , email: [email protected]
Copyright, October 2019
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronics, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
written permission of the publisher. Printed in Politeknik STTT Bandung
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
TIME RUNDOWN (DETAILED)
08.00 – 08.30
08.30 – 09.00 ACTIVITIES
09.00 – 09.30 REGISTRATION
09.30 – 12.00
OPENING
12.00 – 13.00 - Welcoming speech 1 : Director of Politeknik STTT Bandung – Tina Martina A.T., M.Si.
13.00 – 13.30 - Welcoming speech 2 : Head of Badan Pengembangan Sumber Daya Manusia Industri – Eko S.A.
13.30 – 14.00
14.00 – 14.15 Cahyanto, SH, LL.M.
14.15 – 14.30 COFFEE BREAK
14.30 – 14.45
14.45 – 15.00 PLENARY SESSION
15.00 – 15.15 - Keynote Speaker 1 : Prof. Yohei Yamamoto (University of Tsukuba)
15.15 – 15.30 - Keynote Speaker 2 : Wiah Wardiningsih, S.ST, M.Tech., Ph.D. (Politeknik STTT Bandung)
- Keynote Speaker 3 : Prof. Monica Eigenstetter (Hochschule Niederrhein)
13.00 – 13.30
13.30 – 14.00 BREAK
14.00 – 14.15
14.15 – 14.30 PARALLEL SESSION : TEX, IME (BRAGA BALLROOM 1)
14.30 – 14.45
Eddy Ho (Warp Knitting Expert, Hong Kong)
14.45 – 15.00 “Advanced Application of Warp Knitted Fabric And The Latest Technology of Warp Knitting”
15.00 – 15.15
Hugo Hu (Textile Dyeing Expert, Taiwan)
15.15 – 15.30 “Textile Dyeing”
13.00 – 13.30 Irvan Fauzi Rochman 1, Ika Natalia Mauliza 2
“Biodesizing Cotton Fabric using Amylase Enzyme Produced from Raw Cotton Fabric Waste
13.30 – 14.00 Fermented by Aspergillus niger”
14.00 – 14.15 COFFEE BREAK
Lestari Wardani1, Noerati 2
“Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre”
Fauzi Ajisetia1 and Asril Senoaji Soekoco, S.S.T, M.T.2
“Knit Fabric Making From Acrylic Yarn and Mono Filament of Recycled Polycarbonate”
Sopyan Souri1, Karlina Somantri2
“The Application Of Traffic Light System on CV X”
Tina Martina1, Saifurohman2, Apridayani3
“An Efforts to Increase The Assembling Process Outputs of Superstar Model Shoes by Reducing
Cycle Time Based on Quantification of Fuzzy Failure Mode and Effect Analysis (Fuzzy FMEA)”
PARALLEL SESSION : CLO (BRAGA BALLROOM 2)
Merdi Sihombing (Sustainable Fashion Designer, Indonesia)
“Sustainable fashion”
Ateeq Ur-Rehman (National Textile University, Pakistan)
“Fabric Hand Vs Sensory Comfort; A Comparative Study of Knitted Clothes”
Aprilia Ridhawati1, Taufiq Hidayat RS2, Nurindah3
“Overview of Indonesian National Cotton Varieties (Kanesia) in Supporting National Textile Industry”
COFFEE BREAK
Gunawan1, Dimas Kusumaatmadja2, Hana Maisyah3, Andika Miftah4
“Technical Study and Design of Baduy Woven Fabrics for Traditional Woven Fabric Development
Efforts”
Taufiq Hidayat RS1, Nurindah2, Dwi Adi Sunarto3
“Potential of Brown Cotton Fiber Development for Sustainable Textile Materials”
Maindo Lucy, Professor Salihu Maiwada
“The Laka Traditional Symbols: Their suitability and Usage as Unifying Motifs for Textile Design
Printing and Production”
Dody Mustafa 1 and Noerati Kemal 2
“A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Fibre”
PARALLEL SESSION : ADV, FIB (BRAGA BALLROOM 3)
Vo Thi Lan Huong (Hanoi Industrial Textile Garment University, Vietnam)
“Morphological and Physico‐Mechanical Properties of Cotton Fabric Finished by Regenerated
Bombyx Mori Silk Fibroin”
Yusril Yusuf (Universitas Gajah Mada, Indonesia)
“Optically Responsive Textile Application Based on Uniaxially Ordered Polymer-Liquid Crystal
Microfibers”
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Nuvalu Asidiq and Achmad Ibrahim Makki
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
TIME ACTIVITIES
14.15 – 14.30 ”Study of Absorption Coefficient Analysis of Tricot Warp Knitting Fabrics as Acoustic Textile
14.30 – 14.45 Materials”
14.45 – 15.00
COFFEE BREAK
15.00 – 15.15
Febrianti Nurul Hidayah, S.T., B.Sc., M.Sc
15.15 – 15.30 “The Effect of Tetraethoxysilane as Filler on UHMWPE (Ultrahigh Molecular Weight
Polyethylene)/HDPE Composites”
13.00 – 13.30
13.30 – 13.45 Andri Hardiansyah1, Yuyun lrmawati2, Fredina Destyorini3, Henry Widodo4, Nanik
13.45 – 14.00
Indayaningsih5, Deni Shidqi Khaerudini6, Rike Yudianti7
14.00 – 14.15 “Preliminary Study of Preparation and characterizations of carbon-based materials-embedded on
14.15 – 14.30 nanocomposites fiber for smart textile applications”
14.30 – 14.45
Agung Setia Budi 1, Asril Senoaji Soekoco S.ST, M.T.2
14.45 – 15.00 “The Making of Geotextiles from Raw Waste of Wool Merino and Plastic Using The Thermal
15.00 – 15.15 Bonding Method”
15.15 – 15.30
Febrianti Nurul Hidayah, S.T., B.Sc., M.Sc
“Interlaminar Shear Behaviour of UHMWPE (Ultrahigh Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Based
Composites with Different Matrixes”
PARALLEL SESSION : SPE, ENV, IND (BRAGA BALLROOM 4)
Pipit Hayati (Testex, Indonesia)
“Sustainable Textile to Protect our Future”
Mala Murianingrum1, Untung Setyo-Budi2, Marjani3, Nurindah4
“The Potency of Indonesian Ramie to Support Textile Industry”
Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra1, Siti Rohmah 2, Didin Wahidin 3, Roni Sahroni4, Irwan5 , Dimas
Kusumaatmadja6, M. Vicki Taufik7 , Pudjiati8 , Sarah Saribanon8, Endah Purnomosari 9,
Andrian Wijayono 10, Diana R.A11, Siti Wirdah12
“Influenced of Yarn Structure for Predicting Quality of Yarn Based on Euclidean Coordinate
(Theoretically and Experimentally)”
Gunawan1, I.Prasetyo2, B.Yuliarto3, Abdurrahman4
“Modelling of Woven Fabric as Micro Perforated Panel”
COFFEE BREAK
12 3
Elly Koesneliawaty , Abdurrohman , Andrian Wijayono
“Modeling of Stress Relaxation and Creep Behaviour of Polyester Yarn Used Fitting Data Method by
Using the Maxwell Model Modification Sequence”
Andrian Wijayono1, Taufik Munandar2, Ryan Rudy3 and Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra4
“Woven Fabric Density Measurement Using Image Processing Techniques”
Tuasikal M. Amin1 , Dalyono Mughni2
“Theoretical Analysis and Investigation of the Length of Thread Straps on Plain Knit Fabrics”
Dalyono Mughni1, Tuasikal M. Amin2
“Mathematical Modeling of Penetration into the Yarn in the Lusi Agreement Process”
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ISSN : 2356-5047
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COVER ............................................................................................................................................ i
INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................. ii
ABOUT ITC ..................................................................................................................................... v
RUNDONWN ................................................................................................................................... vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................................................................................... vii
TEX, IME 3 :
“Biodesizing Cotton Fabric using Amylase Enzyme Produced from Raw Cotton Fabric Waste
Fermented by Aspergillus niger” ...................................................................................................... 1
TEX, IME 4
“Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre” ................ 14
TEX, IME 5
“Knit Fabric Making From Acrylic Yarn and Mono Filament of Recycled Polycarbonate” ............... 20
TEX, IME 6
“The Application Of Traffic Light System on CV X” ......................................................................... 32
TEX, IME 7
“An Efforts to Increase The Assembling Process Outputs of Superstar Model Shoes by
Reducing Cycle Time Based on Quantification of Fuzzy Failure Mode and Effect Analysis
(Fuzzy FMEA)” ................................................................................................................................ 38
CLO 2
“Comparison of Fabric Hand with Sensory Comfort for Knitted Clothes” ....................................... 51
CLO 4
“Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric” ................................................................................... 58
CLO 5
“Potential Of Brown Cotton Fiber Development For Sustainable Textile Materials”........................ 69
CLO 7
“A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Fibre” ............. 77
ADV, FIB 1
“Morphological and physico‐mechanical properties of finished cotton fabric by regenerated
Bombyx mori silk fibroin” ................................................................................................................. 84
ADV, FIB 2
“Optically Responsive Textile Application Based on Uniaxially Ordered Polymer-Liquid Crystal
Microfibers” ...................................................................................................................................... 94
ADV, FIB 3
” Absorption Coefficient of Tricot Warp Knitting Fabrics as Acoustic Textile Materials” ................. 103
ADV, FIB 4
“The Effect of Tetraethoxysilane as Filler on UHMWPE (Ultrahigh Molecular Weight
Polyethylene)/HDPE Composites” .................................................................................................. 109
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ISSN : 2356-5047
ADV, FIB 5
“Preliminary Study of Preparation and Characterizations of Carbon-based materials-embedded
on Nanocomposites Fiber for Smart Textile Applications” ............................................................ 116
ADV, FIB 6
“The Making of Geotextiles from Raw Waste of Wool Merino and Plastic Using The Thermal
Bonding Method” ............................................................................................................................. 124
ADV, FIB 7
“Interlaminar Shear Behaviour of UHMWPE (Ultrahigh Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Based
Composites with Different Matrixes” ............................................................................................... 133
SPE, ENV, IND 2
“The Potency of Indonesian Ramie to Support Textile Industry” ................................................... 139
SPE, ENV, IND 3
“Influenced of Yarn Structure for Predicting Quality of Yarn Based on Euclidean Coordinate
(Theoretically and Experimentally)” ................................................................................................ 149
SPE, ENV, IND 4
“Modelling of Woven Fabric as Micro Perforated Panel as Sound Absorber” ............................... 159
SPE, ENV, IND 5
“Modeling of Stress Relaxation and Creep Behaviour of Polyester Yarn Used Fitting Data
Method by Using the Maxwell Model Modification Sequence” ....................................................... 164
SPE, ENV, IND 6
“Woven Fabric Density Measurement Using Image Processing Techniques” ............................... 174
PO 1
“Study on Cellulose Sponges Reinforced by Viscose Rayon Fibers” ............................................. 181
PO 2
“Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and
Echinodorus palaefolius)” ................................................................................................................ 187
PO 3
“Study of Making Nonwoven Farbic as a Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal
Bonding Method” ............................................................................................................................. 197
PO 4
“Knitted Fabric Density Measurement Using Image Processing Techniques” ............................... 218
PO 5
“Wedding Gown Making with Sasirangan Fabric and Borneo’s Motif Embroidery” ........................ 225
PO 6
“Flexible Maternity Garment Using Design Details and Closures”................................................... 232
PO 7
“Study on contents of Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex FFRC in flame retardant treatment for
cotton fabrics” .................................................................................................................................. 248
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PO 8
“The Utilization of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) as The Source of Natural Dye in Dyeing
of Silk Batik” .................................................................................................................................... 255
PO 9
“The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using
Pectinase Enzyme” ......................................................................................................................... 261
PO 10
“Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method
Using Variation Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature” ....................................... 270
PO 11
“Effect of Different Solvent on Tegeran (Cudrania javanensis) Wood Extract Dyeing Quality on
Silk Batik” ........................................................................................................................................ 278
PO 12
“Sisal Fiber Of Agave H11648 as A Potential Raw Material For Eco-Friendly Textile” .................. 285
PO 13
“Designing Batik and Artificial Batik Differentiator Applications Using Tensorflow” ........................ 291
PO 14
“Quality Analysis of Implementation of Cleaner Production at Batik Industry Using The
Importance Performance Analysis (IPA) Methods as a Waste Management Tool” ....................... 297
PO 15
“Quality Analysis of Implementation of Cleaner Production at Batik Industry Using The
Importance Performance Analysis (IPA) Methods as a Waste Management Tool” ....................... 308
PO 16
“Image Color Scale Analysis of Textile Texture Visual in Indonesia Trend Forecasting” ............... 316
SPE, ENV, IND 6
Mathematical Modeling of Size Penetration into the Yarn in the Warp Sizing................................. 326
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Biodesizing Cotton Fabric using Amylase Enzyme
Produced from Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented
by Aspergillus Niger
Irvan Fauzi Rochman 1, and Ika Natalia Mauliza 1,*
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-817-422-262
Abstract: Biodesizing of woven fabric is needed to improve the absorption properties of
the fabric. Biodesizing was carried out using amylase which hydrolyzed starch on
woven fabrics. Commercial amylase production is limited. The amylase can be
produced from Aspergillus niger fermentation on starch-containing substrates. The
potential substrate for the fermentation process is raw cotton fabrics waste, which
contains high starch and has not been utilized. Raw cotton fabrics waste cleaned and
crushed. Aspergillus niger was inoculated on the substrate of raw cotton fabrics waste for
7 days at room temperature. Crude enzyme extracts were tested for amylase enzyme
activites using the DNS method at temperatures of 30, 50, 70, and 90oC and pH 3, 5, 7, 9.
The amylase enzyme produced was used for biodesizing of raw cotton fabrics at 70oC,
pH 7, for 10, 30, 50 and 70 minutes. Biodesizing fabrics is carried out by weight
reduction, absorbency, and fabric surface morphology. Enzyme activity test showed that
the amylase worked effectively at 70oC and pH 7. Crude enzyme hydrolize starch
effectively at 70 minutes which result in 7.24% of weight reduction, 10 seconds
absorption value, and smoother morphological surfaces.
Keywords: amylase enzyme; Aspergillus niger; biodesizing; raw cotton fabrics waste
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
During the weaving process the warp yarn are exposed to considerable mechanical
strain. In order to prevent breaking, they are usually reinforced by sizing with a
gelatinous substance [1]. About 75% sizing agents used consist of starch and its
derivatives. Starch has been used as sizing components for cotton, being readily
available, relatively cheap, and based on natural, sustainable materials. Pretreatment
process in textile is carried out to remove impurities before dyeing and finishing
process. Desizing as one of pretreatment process in which the size applied to the warp
yarn before weaving is removed to enhance the penetration of dyes and chemicals in
1
Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
the next wet processing [2]. Desizing methods are available in various types, they are
alkali desizing, oxidative desizing, acidic desizing, and enzymatic desizing. Enzymatic
desizing is the most widely practiced method of desizing starch. Enzyme which is used
in desizing process is amylase. Amylase is a hydrolytic enzyme which catalyses the
breakdown of dietary starch into smaller oligosaccharides, dextrin and maltose [1], [3].
Users believe that amylase more effective method to remove starch without damaging
to the fabrics because it work in specific substance. The process of removing starch by
the amylase is called biodesizing process. Environmental an economic benefits of
enzymatic desizing are avoiding chemical fiber damage, increasing biodegradability of
effluent, and less handling of aggressing chemical which harmfull to the environment
[1]. While the amylase enzyme is still very limited and the price is relatively expensive.
This enzyme cannot be produced domestically. Therefore, efforts are needed to solve
this problem, so that the availability of enzymes can fulfill market share needs.
Enzymes can be obtained from various sources including from the growth period of
wheat (malt), the remains of animal pancreas, plants and microorganisms [4].
Microorganisms are considered the most economical compared to other sources,
because they can be produced through fermentation techniques in a lower cost with less
time and space requirement, and because of their high consistency, process modification
and optimization can be done very easily [5]. The microorganisms that are widely used
to produce enzymes are mold such as Aspergillus. One of the Aspergillus species that
has the potential to produce amylase enzymes is Aspergillus niger. Aspergillus niger
accounts for almost 95% of the commercial production of amylase and other enzymes
[6].
Aspergillus niger is a mold from genus of Aspergillus, family of Moniliaceae, order
Hyphomycetales, and division Deuteromycota [7]. The mold can grow optimally at
temperatures of 35-37 0C, with minimum temperature of 6-8 oC and maximum
temperature of 45-47 oC. It has large conidial carrier head that is packed densely, round
and black, black-brown or purple-brown. The Konidian is large and contains pigments.
Most strains in this group have skleeotia which is gray to black. Some strains are used
in the production of citric acid, gluconate acid and enzymes [8].
Figure 1. Morphology of Aspergillus niger [9] 2
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
Aspergillus niger productivity to grow and synthesize products in an environment is
influenced by several factors, including pH, temperature, inoculum size, incubation
period, carbon, and nitrogen sources [10].
One of the most nutrients for Aspergillus niger for its growth is carbohydrate. Many
carbohydrate sources are found in rice, corn, cassava, groundnut oil wastes, wheat [11],
[12]. One of the results of this processed product is made into flour without reducing
the levels of carbohydrates contained in it. Carbon sources are usually simple sugars,
such as dextrose. However, for certain purposes complex carbohydrates can be used as
a source of carbon, for example cellulose. Although in small amounts, nutrients such as
sodium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, manganese, copper, zinc,
chlorine and cobalt can be needed by the organism, so the culture medium must also
contain these nutrients in small quantities.
Raw cotton fabrics waste is a raw fabrics made from cellulose that has not been
processed so that it has not been contaminated with chemicals. In the weaving process,
warp need sizing process in order to increase the strength of the warp. Sizing of warp is
using natural starch (starch) with the percentage of starch following the amount of tetal
warp. The high carbohydrate content (cellulose and starch) in the raw cotton fabrics
waste is similar to the content found in rice bran. The use of rice bran as a solid
substrate for the growth of Aspergillus niger has been widely investigated to produce
amylase enzymes. Singh, S., Sharma, S., Kaur, C., Dutt, D. (2013) reporting that
Aspergillus niger grows optimally on rice bran substrate and produces amylase enzyme
[4].
The temperature will affect the growth rate of the Aspergillus niger mold, at the
optimal temperature the growth of the mushroom colonies in converting the substrate
into a product will be more increased and effective. Karri, et al (2014) states that the
optimum media temperature of Aspergillus niger mold on rice bran substrate with the
highest enzyme activity value is 30oC [13].
The optimum pH is needed to produce the enzyme by the Aspergillus niger. During
the fermentation process, pH of the media tends to change by various factors, changes
in the pH of the environment will affect the metabolic process of Aspergillus niger as a
result of optimum pH growth of Aspergillus niger mushroom media at pH 7 [14].
According to Karri et al (2014) said that the maximum production of amylase
enzyme by Aspergillus niger mold was obtained after 6 days [13] Different fermentation
time was states by Singh et al (2008) who reported that the highest enzyme activity from
fermented Aspergillus niger fungi occurred at 7 days fermentation time [15].
Amylase enzymes has different characteristics. Sukandar (2009) in Jayanti (2011)
stated that enzyme activity will be influenced by several factors, including the
concentration of enzymes and substrates, temperature, pH, and inhibitors [16]. This
factor will affect the enzyme in producing the product. At the optimum temperature,
the collision between the enzyme and the substrate is very effective, so that the
3
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
formation of the enzyme-substrate complex is easier and the product formed increases.
The optimum temperature of the amylase enzyme generally ranges from temperatures
of 40-70oC [17], and the optimum enzyme concentration derived from bacteria or mol
for desizing process is 0.5-1 g / L [2]. Singh et al (2008) stated that the temperature of the
amylase enzyme from the Aspergillus niger for desizing process was optimum at a
temperature of 70oC [15]. The optimum pH condition requires an enzyme to activate all
enzymes in binding to the substrate [18]. The optimum pH of the amylase enzyme is at
pH 7 [1].
The use of foodstuffs such as rice as a medium for producing enzymes from
microorganisms less effective, because of the high costs. Alternative materials that can
be utilized as a growth medium of mold to produce enzymes also mostly contained in
raw cotton woven fabric waste originating from the textile industry. In the textile
industry, raw cotton woven fabric is a raw fabric that has not been processed yet.
Utilization of raw woven fabric in some textile industries is not considered very well, in
fact in one of the textile industries in the Cimahi area and some textile industries in
West Java, has not been done properly. Fabrics in low grade and large defect left until
they are weathered and dusty in the warehouse even though the amount of waste
produced is not so much. Raw cotton fabric contain (94% cellulose) (1.3% protein) (1.2%
pectin) (0.6% wax) (1.2% ash) (1.7% pigment and other substances) [19]. it also contain
starch which is intentionally added for the purposes of the weaving process. The starch
will coat the surface of the thread so that the surface becomes slippery, flexible, will not
break easily due to friction. In general, starch used for the weaving process consists of
natural starch, synthetic and modified so that the use of starch types needs to be
adjusted to the type of fiber used. Raw cotton woven fabric is natural fiber so that the
covenant process is carried out using natural starch. Starch are complex carbohydrates
produced by cassava in the form of tapioca flour. The high levels of cellulose found in
raw cotton woven fabric waste in addition high levels of carbohydrates found in starch
made the raw cotton woven fabric as of the most needed elements of the Aspergillus
niger to grow and reproduce.
Raw cotton woven fabric which has a high carbohydrate content will produce high
glucose as well as for the growth nutrition of Aspergillus niger fungi in producing
amylase enzymes. Waste of raw cotton woven fabric potential to be used as solid media
in the fermentation process of Aspergillus niger in producing amylase enzymes. High
cellulose and starch (amylose & amylopectin) in the raw cotton fabric waste assumed to
be used as a solid medium for molds in producing amylase enzymes for desizing
process. If the waste of raw cotton woven is used as a solid substrate for fungal growth
media, it can increase the utilization of raw cotton fabric waste that has not been treated
properly.
Amylase effective to hydrolise many kind of starch including commercial starch,
yam, maize, cassava, and sweet potato [20], [21]. Chinnamal (2013) produce amylase
from microbial then used to remove starch from raw cotton. Amylase has good
4
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
activities in almost after desizing analysis including residual starch, iodine test,
shrinkage, fabric weight , tensile strength and absorbency [22].
Solid state fermentation as a fungal growth medium was chosen because it can
represent the condition of the substrate used which is insoluble in water and does not
contain free water but is sufficient to contain water for microbial purposes. The media
functions as a source of carbon, nitrogen and energy sources. In addition, it is believed
to reduce production costs, simple techniques, low energy requirements and easy
product recovery.
2. Materials and Methods
The research was conducted on a laboratory scale at Politeknik STTT Bandung.
2.1. Material
Microbial culture of Aspergillus niger was obtained from the Microbiology
Laboratory of the Faculty of Chemical Engineering, Institut Teknologi Bandung. Raw
cotton woven fabric waste substrates was obtained from PT Bratatex, Jl. Mahar
Martanegara Cimahi. Also other chemicals as follow: KH2PO4 (p.a.), NaNO3 (p.a.),
MgSO4 (p.a.) and glucose, starch, buffer pH, DNS
2.2. Methods
2.2.1. Material characterization
The research begins with the initial characterization of raw cotton fabric waste
which will be used as a substrate in the fermentation process by Aspergillus niger.
2.2.2. Production of Amylase
Production of amylase enzymes use solid fermentation method. Raw cotton woven
fabric waste crushed into small pieces. Microbial culture of Aspergillus niger was
inoculated on 8 grams of raw cotton waste medium by adding 1 ml of inoculant and
then incubated at 30oC for 7 days. Additional nutrients such as KH2PO4, NaNO3 and
MgSO4 are given to be able to meet the nutritional needs that can be accepted by the
fungus Aspergillus niger in addition to nutrient intake from its own growth media. The
extraction of amylase enzyme was carried out by adding 100 mL of distilled water to
the fermentation substrate and shaken at 150 rpm for 10 minutes at room temperature.
Next, centrifuged at 3,000 rpm for 20 minutes. The supernatant obtained was used as a
crude enzyme extract.
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 2. Preparation process (a) Aspergillus niger culture (b) raw cotton fabric waste after crushed
(c) sterilization
2.2.3. Enzyme activities
The amylase enzyme activity was tested using the DNS method at temperatures of
30, 50, 70, and 90oC and pH 3, 5, 7, 9 [20].
2.2.4. Biodesizing
The results of the enzyme activity test were used as parameters of the biodesizing
process. The amylase enzyme produced was used for the biodesizing process raw
cotton fabric at 700C, pH 7, for 10, 30, 50, and 70 minutes.
2.2.5. After Desizing Characterization
Biodesizing fabric is carried out by weight reduction test, absorbency test, and
fabric surface morphology test.
3. Results
Raw cotton fabric waste used in this study contains 7.16% of starch. Aspergillus
niger is fermented on a substrate that comes from the waste of raw cotton fabric waste
that has been cut into small pieces to form a slightly broken fiber. Substrate
visualization of raw cotton woven fabric waste before and after fermentation with
Aspergillus niger can be seen in Figure 3.
(a) (b) 6
Figure 3. Substrate visualization (a) before fermentation (b) after fermentation
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
Solid state fermentation produce amylase enzyme which can be seen in Figure 4.
The enzyme tested for its activity on temperature and pH so that optimum conditions
were used for the biodesizing process.
Figure 4. Crude Amylase Enzyme
3.1. Enzyme Activity
Enzyme activity is the ability of enzymes to work in converting substrates into products
(reducing sugars). The amylase enzyme obtained from fungal microorganisms has different
characteristics. This is because the enzyme amylase in carrying out its catalytic activity is
influenced by several factors including temperature and pH.
3.1.1. Effect of temperature on enzyme activity
The test results of amylase enzyme activity against temperature can be seen in Figure
5.
Enzyme Activity (unit/mL) 0,22 0,1868 0,1958
0,2
0,1764
0,18
0,16 0,1502
0,14
0,12 40 60 80 100
Temperature (⁰C)
0,1
20
Figure 5. Amylase enzyme activity against temperature
3.1.2. Effect of pH on enzyme activity 7
The test results of amylase enzyme activity against pH can be seen in Figure 6.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470817
Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
Enzyme Avtivity (unit/mL) 0,195 0,1921
0,19 0,1875 0,187
0,185
0,18 0,1617
0,175 2 4 6 8 10
0,17
0,165 pH
0,16
0
Figure 6. Amylase enzyme activity against pH
3.2. Biodesizing of raw cotton fabric using amylase enzyme from raw cotton fabric waste fermented by
Aspergillus niger
Biodesizing on raw cotton fabric is done by varying the contact time of 10, 30, 50,
and 70 minutes. Data analysis was obtained from the results of weight reduction test,
fabric absorption test, and fabric surface morphology on the results of the biodesizing
process by the amylase enzyme as follows :
3.2.1. Weight reduction of fabrics
Weight reduction of 8 7,24
fabrics (%) 6,79 7,11 80
6 5,56
4
2
00 20 40 60
0 Biodesizing time (minutes)
Figure 7. Biodesizing time against weight reduction of fabrics
3.2.2. Fabric absorption
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
Absorption time 60 48,46
(seconds) 50
40 35,43
30
20 20,46
10
0 10,35
0 20 40 60 80
Biodesizing time (minutes)
Figure 8. Biodesizing time against absorption time
3.2.3. Fabric Surface Morphology
(a) undesized
(b) biodesizing 10 minutes (c) biodesizing 70 minutes
Figure 9. The Fabric Surface Morphology using Scanning Electron Microscope
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
4. Discussion
Production of amylase enzyme through the fermentation of raw cotton woven
fabric waste with Aspergillus niger had been done. The substrate changes during the
fermentation period. Initially, the white substrate becomes surrounded by black spots
around the substrate. This shows that the substrate becomes the growth medium of
Aspergillus niger. During the growth period, Aspergillus niger produces black pigments
which are a sign of the existence of Aspergillus niger [23]. This can be seen in Figure 3.
After the fermentation process is complete, harvesting the enzyme is carried out to
produce a crude enzyme as shown in Figure 4.
4.1. Enzyme activity
4.1.1. Enzyme Activity Against Temperature
Based on Figure 5, enzyme activities increased at a temperature of 30oC to 50oC and
optimum at a temperature of 70oC with an enzyme activities value of 0.1958 Unit / mL.
This condition shows an increase in kinetic energy or an increase in the effectiveness of
enzymes that will facilitate the formation of substrate enzyme complexes, so that the
products are more [18]. At a temperature of 90oC the enzyme activity decreased with
the enzyme activity value of 0.1502 Unit / mL this occurs because the enzyme
undergoes denaturation.
4.1.2. Enzyme Activity Against Temperature
Based on Figure 6, the value of enzyme activities have increased with increasing
value of acidity. Optimum enzyme activity was at pH 7 with an enzyme activity value
of 0.1921 Unit / mL and decreasing at pH 9 with an enzyme activity value of 0.1627 Unit
/ mL. Decrease in the effectiveness of the amylase enzyme is caused by damage to the
amylase enzyme at high pH. pH is one of the important factors that must be considered.
This is because, that an enzyme is a protein molecule, its protein molecule stability is
greatly influenced by the acidity of the environment, in certain pH conditions the
protein molecules of the enzyme will be damaged (denatured).
4.2. Biodesizing of raw cotton fabric using amylase enzyme from raw cotton fabric waste fermented by
Aspergillus niger
Biodesizing is the process of starch removal using the amylase enzyme as the stage
of application of the product synthesized by the Aspergillus niger mold from the solid
state fermentation process of raw cotton woven fabric on textile materials in the form of
cotton woven fabric which still contains starch. The amylase enzyme will specifically
degrade starch on the surface of the fiber by hydrolyzing the insoluble chain of starch
molecules into water-soluble glucose. Enzyme characteristics are influenced by several
factors including temperature, pH, and contact time [1].
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
4.2.1. Weight reduction of fabrics
A weight reduction test was carried out to find out how much starch was lost on
the fabric after 10, 30, 50, and 70 minutes using the amylase enzyme. The weight
reduction test results can be seen in Figure 7. Processing time affects the percent weight
reduction value. Weight reduction of fabric that biodesized at 70 minutes higher than
the other fabrics. It means that the longer the processing time the more starch is
removed. Increasing the processing time the more enzymes that hydrolyze the
substrate. This amylase enzyme will hydrolyze the amylose and amylopectin starch
chains on the surface of the fiber along with the increase in processing time. At that
time, the amylase enzyme effectively attacked the starch polymer chains so that starch
can dissolve into a simpler form (glucose, maltose) so that the starch material will
decrease and cause the weight reduction percentage value to increase. Enzyme
molecules are catalysts that are very efficient in accelerating the conversion of substrate
to final products. One single enzyme molecule can make as many as one thousand
substrate molecules per second. This fact also explains that the enzyme molecule is not
consumed or changes during the reaction process, meaning the length of contact or
reaction between the enzyme and the substrate determines the effectiveness of the
enzyme's work. In addition, the increasing effectiveness of the enzyme activity in
degrading starch on the surface of the fiber is also supported by the process conditions
besides the length of time, temperature and pH the process is also very influential for
enzymes in degrading starch that coats the fabric, if the pH value and temperature are
low or height will cause a denaturation process which results in a decrease in the value
of enzyme activity.
4.2.2. Fabric Absorption
The absorption test determines the ability of fabrics to water absorption. The result
was absorption time value. The ability to absorb cloth is influenced by the content of
components in the fabric. Fabrics that still contain a lot of starch will have poor
absorption capacity. Good fabric absorption can be obtained by removing components
that can block the absorption process. The results of the absorbency test can be seen in
Figure 8.
The results of absorption test of the fabric shows that the longer the time of the
biodesizing process, the shorter the absorption time of the drops test results. That
shows that the starch attached to the surface of the fiber is partially dissolved which
means that the enzyme effectively degrades insoluble starch to dissolve in water so that
the fiber pores are more open so it is effective for absorbing water. However, the
absorption time obtained from the results of this test has not been very effective, the
shortest absorption time only occurs in 10 seconds, because other components such as
other fiber impurities have not been removed. The processing time affects the percent
weight reduction value.
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
4.2.3. Fabric Surface Morphology
Fabric surface morphological test was carried out using Scanning Electron
Microscope (SEM). This test was carried out to determine the appearance of the fiber
surface resulting from the biodesizing process using enzymes (biodesizing) with
variations in the time of biodesizing process 10, 30, 50, and 70 minutes. The surface
image of the fiber on the surface testing of this material is carried out on blank cloth to
see the fabric which is actually still coated with starch compared to the fabric which was
tested at 10 and 70 minute process time variations in order to see the performance of the
amylase enzyme in degrading the substrate at the shortest time and the longest time.
Image of fiber surface image as a result of testing the surface morphology of the
material can be seen in Figure 9.
From Figure 9, it is clear that the surface image of cotton fiber treated when the
longest starch removal process or for 70 minutes biodesizing process produce cleanest
surface image of the fabric. Figure (C) shows that there is no starch lining the fiber.
Different things are shown on the fabric in Figure (B) with the treatment of the starch
removal process for 10 minutes, it can be seen that the starch still covers the surface of
the fiber. However, the same process has been carried out using the amylase enzyme. It
happens that, the activity of the amylase enzyme in hydrolyzing the substrate is
influenced by the processing time. The longer the time, the effectiveness of the amylase
enzyme to attack the starch polymer chains that are on the surface of the fiber is
increasing so that starch can dissolve into a simpler form (glucose, maltose) so that the
starch material in the fiber will decrease. During the 10 minute process the contact time
of the enzyme in binding to the substrate is not optimum so that even though the starch
removal process has been carried out, when the contact time of the reaction between
enzymes is less effective the starch removal process will not be effective because the
enzyme will be very active binding the substrate as contact time increases
5. Conclusions
The raw cotton woven fabric waste can be used as a solid substrate for the amylase
enzyme production using fermentation process by the Aspergillus niger fungus with
starch content on the substrate of 7.16%. The amylase enzyme produced from the solid
state fermentation process of the raw cotton woven fabric waste by the Aspergillus niger
effectively removes the starch contained in the cotton fabrics. The longer the processing
time, the greater the weight reduction value, the shorter the absorbency time decreases
and the surface morphology of the material is cleaner. The best value for weight
reduction, absorption, and surface morphology was found in 70 minutes with a weight
reduction percentage of 7.24%, 10 seconds absorption test and the cleanest surface
morphology among other fabrics. Raw cotton fabric waste can be used as an alternative
growth medium for Aspergillus niger
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Irvan Fauzi Rochman : Biodesizing Cotton Fabrics Using Amylase Enzyme Produced From Raw Cotton Fabric Waste Fermented By
Aspergillus Niger
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13
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470817
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical
Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
Lestari Wardani 1,*, Noerati 2
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung; Noerati
* Correspondence: [email protected]
Abstract: Pineapple leaves which are agricultural wastes can be used as textile products.
Pineapple leaf fibre has excellent properties such as high strength and modulus. Pineapple
leaf fibres need to be used as textile products. One method used is treatment with enzyme.
In this study an investigation of enzyme treatments for pineapple leaf fibre was analyzed.
The test was carried out by applying the enzyme xylanase and pectinase enzyme to
pineapple leaf fibres with and without alkaline. After the application of the enzyme, weight
reduction, fibre morphology, fineness and sorbtion time of pineapple leaf fibres were
sought. The results showed that the use of enzyme affected to the weight reduction,
fineness and sorbtion ability.
Keywords: Pineapple leaf fibre; Xylanase enzyme; Pektinase enzyme
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Pineapple fibre is a natural extracted from pineapple plant leaves. The pineapple plant is
mostly cultivated in tropic and sub-tropic countries. Pineapple plant farming has an important role
in tropical and sub-tropical countries agriculture and it is mostly cultivated for its fruit. Tons of
pineapple leaves are left as agrowaste material since the majority of pineapple extracts are extracted
from waste pinapple plant leaves [1].
At the present, waste treatment is in the spotlight in the world. One way to minimize the
formation of waste leaf pineapple is to use pineapple leaf fibres to become textile materials.
Pineapple fibre has excellent properties such as high strength and modulus. Highly amount
of cellulose (70-82% based on weight of fibres) and 16-22.2% hemicellulose, 5-13% lignin,
2.5-3.5% wax and others [1].
Nowadays, natural fibre reinforced composites have had great interest due to the cost
saving, improvement of the productivity improvement and the mechanical product [2].
Pineapple leaf fibre is one of the natural fibres. The major problem is natural fibrous as a
reinforced material is improper contact with adherent surface and polymer material. Thus
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Wardani, Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
the improved interface quality of composites is commonly treated by treating surfaces of
fibres with suitable methods such as chemical modifiers, coupling agents and
compatibilizer agents. The use of enzyme technology has been increased substantially in
the natural fibre processing [2].
Previous research has examined the effect of xylanase enzymes on the mechanical
properties of corn husk [3] and application of cellulase and laccase to pineapple leaf fibres
[4]. In this study, alkalineand enzyme treatments were used. This study aims to investigate
the effect of enzymatic treatment on the mechanical properties of pineapple leaf fibre. The
enzyme used are xylanase and pectinase. Enzymes have been used in processing fibre
sources such as flax and hemp. At present, fibre liberation is affected by retting i.e., the
removal of binding material present in plant tissues using enzymes produced in situ by
microorganisms. Pectinases are believed to play the main role in this process, however,
xylanases may also be involved [5]. Xilanase enzyme breaks the covalent bond between
lignin and cellulose and depolimerize hemicellulose in the fibre [3].
2. Materials and Methods
2.1 Materials
Pineapple leaf fibres were used is a comercial pineapple leaf fibre called Alfibre. The age of the
fibres since it planted is 1,5 years old, however, as long as the pineapple leaves reaches above 60
cm, it can be used as fibre. Xylanase enzyme obtained from BPPT Research and Development.
Pectinase enzyme used is a comercial pectinase. Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and Acetic Acid
(CH3COOH) is a technical grade supplies from CV Sofyan Jaya.
2.2 Methods
Method used in this experiment is based on Yilmaz experiment with corn husk. A portion of
pineapple leaf fibre was alkalized with NaOH. Pineapple leaf fibre were subjected to alkalization
treatment at a NaOH concentration of 7,5 g/L for 20 min under boiling temperature in distilled
water. The alkalization treatment was carried out at 1:20 liquor ratio. Alkalization was followed by
rinsing several times, one with hot water, neutralizing with 10% acetic acid solution, rinsing and
drying under ambient conditions.
Xylanase Enzyme treatment was carried out in beaker glass at 70oC, pH 9 with liqour ratio
1:20 in distilled water. Pectinase Enzyme treatment was carried out in beaker glass at 70oC, pH 7
with liqour ratio 1:20 in distilled water. Duration of each enzyme treatment is one hour. Enzyme
consentration was calculated based on the percentage ratio enzyme mass to the fibre mass [3].
Enzyme consentration used is 1% based on fibre weight.
After enzyme treatments, morphological structure, weight reduction, tenacity, fineness and
sorbtion time of treated pineapple leaf fibre were evaluated. Morphological structure was
measured using microscope with 40x magnification. Weight reduction was measured by measuring
the untreated pineapple leaf fibre mass and then its mass after treated. The weight reduction was
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Wardani, Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
calculated with the percent of weight. Tenacity of the fibres was measured based on SNI 08-1112-
1989. Fineness of the fibres was measured based on SNI 08-1111-1989. Sorbtion time was measured
by water drop test.
3. Results
The effect of treatments on physical and mechanical characteristics of pineapple leaf fibre have
been investigated. The weight reduction, tenacity and wet sorption ability are shown in table 1.
Table 1. weight reduction, tensile properties and wet ability of treated pineapple leaf fibres
Weight Tenacity Fibre fineness Sorption
reduction (%) (g/tex) (tex) time (s)
Neat - 21.4 3.99 5.28
Pretreatment 24,2180 13.73 2.64 1.67
Pretreatment + xylanase 1% 33,7496 11.21 1.97 1.75
Pretreatment + pectinase 28,1453 10.74 2.64 1.51
1%
Xylanase 1% 9, 7728 21.08 2.83 4.91
Pectinase 1% 9,1542 20.16 3.38 2.39
3.1 Morphological Structure
Morphological structure of each treatment with 40x magnification indicates that there is no
significant different between plain pineapple leaf fibre, alkaline treatment pineapple leaf fibre and
enzyme treatment pineapple leaf fibre. Morphological structure consists of longitudinal section and
cross section. Figure 1 shows the longitudinal section of pineapple leaf fibre while figure 2 shows
the cross section of pineapple leaf fibre.
(a) (b)
(c) (d)
Figure 1. longitudinal section of pineapple leaf fibre. (a) Non treatment (b) NaOH treatment (c)
Xylanase treatment (d) Pectinase treatment
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Wardani, Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
(a) (b)
(c) (d)
Figure 2. cross section of pineapple leaf fibre. (a) Non treatment (b) NaOH treatment (c) Xylanase
treatment (d) Pectinase treatment
3.2 Weight Reduction
From table 1, it can be seen that there was a weight reduction after the pineapple leaf fibres
were treated. Alkaline treatment shows a greater reduction than only treatment with enzymes. Large
weight reduction occurs in the treatment of a combination of alkaline treatment and enzyme
treatment. Either with xylanase enzyme or pectinase enzyme shows significant result in weight
reduction when it is combined with NaOH. This result illustrates that although alkaline use cannot
be replaced by the use of enzymes, alkaline use can be reduced.
3.3 Tenacity
Based on table 1, it can be seen that the treatment carried out on pineapple leaf fibres reduces
the tenacity of pineapple leaf fibres. The biggest tenacity reduction is found in pineapple leaf fibres
treated by NaOH and enzyme. The smallest tenacity reduction is found in pineapple leaf fibres
treated only with enzymes.
3.4 Fibres Fineness
Based on the table 1, it can be identified that the treatment carried out on pineapple leaf fibres
increase the fineness of the fibres. The finest fibres is found in pineapple leaf fibre treated by NaOH
and xylanase enzyme. It is related with the weight reduction since it influence the fibres fineness.
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Wardani, Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
3.5 Sorption Time
Based on table 1, it can be seen that the treatment carried out on pineapple leaf fibres improves
sorption time on pineapple leaf fibres. The fastest sorption time is found in the treatment of
pineapple leaf fibres with a combination of NaOH and xylanase enzymes.
4. Discussion
In this study, alkaline treatment and enzymes were carried out on pineapple leaf fibres. Tests
include morphology structure, weight reduction, tenacity, fineness and sorption time.
Alkaline treatment was used to achieve good results because alkaline can remove waxes and
other non cellulosic compound [2]. Xylanase enzyme breaks the covalent bond between lignin and
cellulose and depolymerize hemicelulose in the fibre. Depolymerize hemicelulose and separated
lignin are removed during washing [6]. Pectinase enzyme can be degrading the pectin in the middle
lamella and the prymary cell wall of higher plants [7].
On the observation of the morphology structure a 40x magnification was used using a
microscope. The use of SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) will be able to clarify the desired
results.
Weight reduction in pineapple leaf fibers treated with NaOH and enzymes occurs because
alkaline treatment with NaOH remove impurities in non-cellulose substances and waxes. xylanase
enzymes depolymerize hemicellulose while the pectinase enzyme trade the potential located in the
middle lamella and the primary cell wall of higher plants. The degradated substance then removed
during washing so it make weight reduction occur.
Alkaline and enzyme treatment have an effect on tenacity, fineness and sorption time of the
fibers. This is due to the breakdown of bonds by both the alkaline and the xylanase and pectinase
enzymes. Alkalinecan degrade lignin in the cellulosic fiber structure, the enzyme xylanase
depolymerizes hemicellulose and the pectinase enzyme degrades pectin. Breaking the bond makes
the handle softer and the tenacity will decrease.
The enzyme works both the xylanase enzyme and the pectinase enzyme in line with the alkaline
treatment. This means that the use of NaOH as an alkaline treatment can be reduced by using
enzymes, both xylanase and pectinase enzymes. Enzyme treatment increases fibre sorption time
because xylanase enzyme degrades xylan which binds lignin and other than cellulose (lignin and
hemicellulose) therefore the sorption time of fibre is improved.
5. Conclusions
Treatment of pineapple leaf fibres using alkalineand enzymes influences weight reduction,
tenacity, fineness and time sorbtion. The highest weight reduction was found in the treatment of
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Wardani, Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Pineapple Leaf Fibre
NaOH and xylanase. The lowest tenacity is found in the treatment of NaOH and enzymes, while the
fastest sorbtion ability is found in the treatment of NaOH and enzymes.
References
1. Kalayci, Ece & Yavaş, Arzu & Avinc, Ozan. (2017). THE EFFECTS OF CELLULASE AND LACCASE
ENZYME TREATMENTS ON PINEAPPLE FIBRES.
2. Threepopnatkul, P., Kaerkitcha, N., & Athipongarporn, N. (2009). Composites : Part B Effect of surface
treatment on performance of pineapple leaf fibre – polycarbonate composites. Composites Part B, 40(7), 628–
632. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compositesb.2009.04.008
3. Effect of xylanase enzyme on mechanical properties of fibres extracted from undried and dried corn husks.
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 39(1), 60–64.
4. Adsul, M. ., Ghule, J. ., Singh, R., Shaikh, H., Bastawde, K. ., Gokhale, D. ., & Varma, A. . (2004).
Polysaccharides from bagasse: applications in cellulase and xylanase production. Carbohydrate Polymers,
57(1), 67–72. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.CARBPOL.2004.04.001
5. Bajpai, P. (1999). Application of Enzymes in the Pulp and Paper Industry. Biotechnology Progress, 15(2), 147–
157. https://doi.org/10.1021/bp990013k
6. Yilmaz, N. D., Çalişkan, E., & Yilmaz, K. (2014). Effect of xylanase enzyme on mechanical properties of
fibres extracted from undried and dried corn husks. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 39(1), 60–64.
7. Bruhlmann, F., Kim, K. S., Zimmerman, W., & Fiechter, A. (1994). Pectinolytic enzymes from actinomycetes
for the degumming of ramie bast fibers. Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 60(6), 2107–2112.
https://doi.org/10.3929/ethz-a-001401783
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Knit Fabric Making From Acrylic Yarn and
Monofilament of Recycled Polycarbonate
Fauzi Ajisetia1* and Asril Senoadji Soekoco2
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: -
Abstract : Raw materials use polycarbonate and acrylic yarn. Polycarbonate an engineering
plastic made from a condensation reaction of bisphenol A with phosphagen in alkaline
media. (Mujiarto, 2005). Acrylic yarn that is carried out by a knitting process with a type of
plain bondage has a stable dimension (Hurley, 1966). Polycarbonate is carried out by the
melting spinning process. After that, acrylic yarn is carried out by knitting and inserted into
polycarbonate monofilament. Fabrics from these raw materials are tested for moisture
content & regained, thermal conductivity, infrared cameras, and broken resistance. Testing
the moisture content and moisture regaining the monofilament insertion proves this second
thing, ie the level is reduced.
Keywords: polycarbonate; anti-infrared; knit fabric
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
The development of textile technology is now propagating with raw materials sourced from
plastic. Plastics are divided into two kinds of thermoplastics and thermosets, and among them are
often used in the textile industry on thermoplastic types. Thermoplastics are a group of plastics that
can melt when heated and harden when cooled. Characteristic thermoplastics, which lend material
names, can be reversed. That is, it can be reheated, reshaped and frozen repeatedly. The types of
plastics in the thermoplastic group are Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET), Polypropylene (PP),
Polystyrene (PS), Polyethylene (PE), Polyvinyl-chloride (PVC), Polycarbonate (PC), Polyamides (PA),
etc. The survey conducted by the Plastic Europe community, that the production of thermoplastics in
the world in 2016 amounted to 280 million tons and 50% of that amount was in Asia (Europe, 2018).
Polymethyl methacrylate is commercially the most important member of a series of acrylic
polymers which can be considered structurally as derivatives of acrylic acid. Groups of these
polymers include polyacrylate, polymethyl acrylic, and important fiber-forming polymers,
polyacrylonitrile. This polymer is a transparent material, microscopic and X-ray analysis shows that
the material is generally amorphous (Brydson, 1999). PMMA, being the first transparent
thermoplastic material, signaled the use of plastics materials as a substitute for optically transparent
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Ajisetia, Knit Fabric From Acrylic and Polycarbonate
glass. Rohm and Haas were acquired in 2009 by The Dow Chemical Company (DOW). PMMA is a
quasi-commodity thermoplastic resin that has excellent weather ability and clarity. (Trade names:
Plexiglas, Lucite, Perspex, and Crystallite, etc.) (Ibeh, 2011). Acrylic yarn made by knitting with plain
mesh has a stable dimension (Hurley, 1966).
Polycarbonate (PC) is an engineering plastic made from a condensation reaction of bisphenol A
with phosphorus (phosgene) in alkaline media. (Mujiarto, 2005). Bisphenol A (BPA) is one of the
highest production chemicals in the world. BPA is found mainly in polycarbonate plastic containers
and aluminum can epoxy resin layers (Groff, 2010). Polycarbonate has a unique combination of
characteristics such as optical clarity (it is amorphous and transparent), toughness (high impact
strength), hardness, dimensional stability, ductility, high thermal resistance, and excellent electrical
resistance. These attributes of PC lend it to use in a broad range of applications from typical
household items such as eyeglass lenses and digital media (computer and music CDs, DVDs) to
automotive and aerospace electronic equipment and accessories, scratch-resistant glazing, riot shields,
and to medical devices and construction applications, used engineering thermoplastics, compact
discs, riot shields, vandal proof glazing, baby feeding bottles, electrical components, safety helmets,
and headlamp lenses. Polycarbonate containing bisphenol A has properties such as absorption of
infrared. This was explained by (Thompson, Kraus, & Covington, 2008) in his journal entitled
"Infrared absorption spectroscopy of Polycarbonate at high pressure". In the journal also explained
that the frequency of infrared absorption was measured using the Grüneisen parameters. This
infrared absorption can be applied to military textile clothing.
The current trends in PC’s chemistry and applications occurred in the 1950s when Bayer and GE
separately commercialized processes based on bisphenol A (BPA). Early productions were based on
reacting phosgene with phenol to produce diphenyl carbonate (DPC), which was then reacted with
BPA to produce the polymer; the generated phenol by-product was captured for reuse. However, this
approach suffered from slow reaction rates and the need for several small-scale batch reactors.
Figure 1. Chemical structure of polycarbonate.
The invention of PC resin is attributed to Daniel W. Fox of GE Polymers (now SABIC). Dr. Fox
developed SABIC’s Lexan PC in 1953 after his experimental work in the effort to develop a new wire
insulation material [2]. Bayer AG, Germany was also working on PC, and in 1958 received the first
U.S. Patent [3] on the interfacial phosgene method for making PC. Mobay (now Bayer America)
followed with the next patent on PC. GE Polymers (SABIC) received its patent in 1960 on the
transesterification process for PC, and also developed the interfacial phosgene process. NASA started
using Lexan PC resin in its astronaut pressure helmet assemblies (Bubble Helmet) and visors for the
history-making lunar landing. PC was introduced commercially in the early 1960s (Ibeh, 2011).
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Military textile has clothing needs in the form of soldier uniforms that have camouflage abilities.
At present, the camouflage in the uniform only covers the visible and has an infrared spectrum that is
close enough. Visual camouflage is obtained by printing on the fabric by adjusting the color to the
background shades to be faced. However, some detectors can detect ultraviolet, near and far infrared,
radar, and, seismic sectors (Adanur & Tewari, 1997). Therefore, a fabrication study was carried out
using polycarbonate raw material. Based on the description of the background above, the title raised
in this thesis is: "Making Knitted Fabric Using Monofilament from Polycarbonate and Acrylic Yarn"
2. Experimental
2.1. Materials
Fiber is a substance that is long, thin, and easily bent. Fiber length several hundred times wide.
In terms of its constituent chemicals, textile fibers are composed of very large molecules, namely in
the form of cellulose, proteins, thermoplastics or minerals. (Priowirjanto, 2001).
Fiber is the raw material used in making threads and fabrics. There are textile fibers made from
raw materials sourced from nature or manufacturing or called synthetic fibers that are made
chemically. All fibers have innate characteristics and characteristics of each fiber that are diverse,
cannot be separated from the characteristics and have/have various kinds of properties (Noerati,
2013).The raw material used in this study is man-made fiber, which is fiber derived from
polycarbonate waste raw material. Artificial fiber is a fiber that is made with the technology of
making fibers, the raw materials of artificial fibers can be derived from natural sources such as
cellulose or protein can also come from raw materials that must be synthesized first (Noerati, 2013).
2.2. Method
The spinning of artificial fibers in question is not spinning fibers into yarn, but the process of
forming polymers into a form of fiber. The method used is generally known as the extrusion
technique. In the method of forming polymers by extrusion, the liquid or polymer solution is pressed
on a vessel so that it exits through a small hole called the spinneret. The spinneret is a hollow vessel
similar to a filter with a very small hole diameter, generally with the size of each hole only a few
microns. The process of making polycarbonate fibers uses a melting spinning process. Melting
spinning is carried out if the polymer raw material is easily melted and not damaged by heat, after
the melt of the polymer passes through the polymer spinneret it is cooled by cold air blowing
(Noerati, 2013).
Raw materials for acrylic and polycarbonate are made into knit fabrics using a flat knitting
machine. Knitting technology is one of the technologies used to make fabrics, in addition to using
weaving and nonwoven technology. The structure of the knit fabric is formed by the threads that are
joined together. The location of these snares is regular, which is a row. The row of entanglements
towards the length of the fabric is called Wale (B-B), while the row of entanglements towards the
width of the fabric is called Course (A-A) (Noerati, 2013). The acrylic yarn raw material is carried out
by the knitting process and then inserted by monofilament fiber from polycarbonate. From the
process, 3 variations were made, namely 100% acrylic, 1 polycarbonate acrylic, and 1 polycarbonate
acrylic with the bond used, namely 1x1 RIB.
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Carbon thread is inserted into the fabric periodically every number of courses. In this way, the
carbon thread is inserted between the entanglement of cotton thread, as well as inserting the weft
thread in the weaving process. This process requires special techniques because insertion is still done
manually. The position of the entrapment on the needle of the front needle bed and the rear bed
needle facing each other allows the inserts to fit into the knit fabric so that the carbon thread is right
between the threads of cotton thread (Siregar & Eriningsih, 2011).
3. Results
This study has several test results that will be compared between variations of 100% acrylic, 1
acrylic 1 polycarbonate, and 1 acrylic 2 polycarbonates. The fabric is subjected to moisture content &
regain testing, thermography, and broken resistance. The results of the test are as follows.
3.1. Moisture Content and Moisture Regain
This test is conducted to determine the moisture content in the three variations of fabric that
have been made. This test uses SNI 8100: 2015 Textiles - Test method for moisture content (moisture
content or moisture regain). The following are the tools and materials used and the method of testing
carried out according to the SNI.
3.1.1. Tools and Materials
Tools and materials used in accordance with SNI 8100:2015 Textiles - The method for testing
moisture content (moisture content or moisture regain) is as follows :
Oven
Weigh Bottle
Analytical Balance
Knit Fabrics
3.1.2. Test Method
Test methods carried out in accordance with SNI 8100: 2015 Textiles - The method for testing
moisture content (moisture content or moisture regain) is as follows:
Preheat the weighing bottle with the sharpening lid separately in the oven at a temperature of
105 ° C to 110 ° C for one hour.
After heating for one hour, move the weighing bottle closed to the desiccator and allow it to
cool to room temperature.
Open the sharpening lid briefly to equalize the air pressure inside the weighing bottle. Then
weigh it closed.
Reheat the weighing bottle and cover it in the oven at a temperature of 105 ° C to 110 ° C for
15 minutes, then transfer it to the desiccator, let it cool and weigh. If the difference in weight
of the weighing bottle twice in a row is not more than 0.1%, it is called fixed weight.
Enter test samples that are already in standard conditions into weighing bottles,
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close and weigh. This weight minus the weight of the weighing bottle (9.d) is the air dry
weight of the test sample, called A.
Place the weighing bottle containing the test sample open in the oven at a
temperature of 105 ° C to 110 ° C for one hour
Weigh the bottle cap and transfer it to the desiccator. After reaching room temperature, open
the bottle weigh a little to equalize the air pressure. Then close again and weigh.
Reheat the weighing bottle containing the test sample into the oven at a
temperature of 105 ° C to 110 ° C for 15 minutes, then transfer it to the desiccator, let it cool
and weigh. If the weighing difference is not more than 0.1%, it is called fixed weight. This
weight minus the weight of the weighing bottle (9.d) is the oven-dry weight of the test
sample, called B
3.1.3. Test Result
Testing the three fabric variations using testing standards namely SNI 8100: 2015 Textiles - The
method for testing moisture content (moisture content or moisture regain) is in the following Table 1.
Table 1. Data of Moisture Content and Moisture Regain Result
Fabric Variation Moisture Moisture
Content Regain
Acrylic 100% 0.010652% 0.010768%
1:1(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 0.007113% 0.007164%
1:2(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 0.004409% 0.004428%
3.2. Determination of Mass Per Unit Area
This test has two test methods, namely testing using fabric weight per unit length and weight of
fabric per unit area based on ISO ISO 3801: 2010. Based on SNI ISO 3801: 2010 the method of testing
the weight of the fabric per unit length and weight of the fabric per unit area is a revision of SNI 09-
0274-1999 the method of testing the dimensions and weight of the fabric. SNI ISO 3801: 2010
originally contained a method for testing the length, width, and weight of the fabric.
3.2.1. Tools and Materials
Tools and materials used for the test is as follows :
Cutter
Metallic Ruler
Metal Plate
Table
Analytical Balance
Knit Fabric
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3.2.2. Test Method
Test methods carried out in accordance with SNI ISO 3801: 2010 Textiles – Determination of mass
per unit length and mass per unit area is as follows:
Cut the 10x10 cm fabric in parallelogram so that the fabric of the knit fabric is not separated.
Measure the mass of cutted fabric.
Record the test results on the fabric.
3.2.3. Test Result
Fabrication testing is carried out to determine the weight of the fabric in area units, gram/m2. For
the results of testing of the three variations of the fabric are in Table 2 as follows.
Table 2. Data of mass per unit area
Fabric Variation Mass
Acrylic 100% 274.7667 gram/m2
1:1(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 322.2333 gram/m2
1:2(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 327.5333 gram/m2
3.3. Thermography Test
This test is carried out using two intermediate media namely heating media and human media.
The following are the tools and materials as well as the work steps taken in the test.
3.3.1. Tools and Materials
Tools and materials used in thermography test is as follows :
Smartphone with installed flir one application
Flir one infrared camera
Knit fabric sample
3.3.2. Test Method
The work steps taken in the test are as follows:
Prepare a smartphone that has the flir one application installed.
Connect the flir one camera to the smartphone that has the flir one application installed, then
turn on the flir one camera.
Place the test sample cloth on the media provided (heater or human).
Then take a picture of the cloth using the installed flir one camera.
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3.3.3. Test Result
Visual testing using infrared cameras is done to determine the ability of polycarbonate which has
anti-infrared properties. The following are temperature data which is muted by samples with humans
in the table 2.
Table 3. Data of Reducing Temperature
Fabric Variation Temperature
Reduced
Acrylic 100% 2.167⁰C
1:1(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 2.333⁰C
1:2(Acrylic:Polycarbonate)
2.767⁰C
The following is an image taken using an infrared camera using the human back in Figure 1.
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 2. Thermography test on human back from 3 variation of knit fabric : (a) acrylic knit fabric
with 2 sheet polycarbonate insertion; (b) acrylic knit fabric with 1 sheet polycarbonate insertion; (c)
acrylic knit fabric without polycarbonate insertion.
The following is an image taken using an infrared camera using heater with 68⁰C temperature in
Figure 3.
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 3. Thermography test on heater with 680C temperature from 3 variation of knit fabric : (a)
acrylic knit fabric with 2 sheet polycarbonate insertion; (b) acrylic knit fabric with 1 sheet
polycarbonate insertion; (c) acrylic knit fabric without polycarbonate insertion.
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The following is an image taken using an infrared camera using heater with 680C temperature in
Figure 4.
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 4. Thermography test on heater with 1000C temperature from 3 variation of knit fabric : (a)
acrylic knit fabric with 2 sheet polycarbonate insertion; (b) acrylic knit fabric with 1 sheet
polycarbonate insertion; (c) acrylic knit fabric without polycarbonate insertion.
3.4. Bursting Strength Test
Bursting strength test for the fabric variation are applied to SNI 08-0617-1989 with the following
tools and materials and work steps.
3.4.1. Tools and Materials
Tools and materials used in accordance with SNI 08-0617-1989 is as follows :
Bursting strength tester
Knit fabric test sample
Cutter
3.4.2. Test Method
The work steps of fabrication testing in accordance with SNI 08-0617-1989 are as follows:
Adjust the diaphragm on the tool until evenly distributed by removing the pressure. Every
test starts, the needle scale must be in the zero point position.
Clamp the test sample.
Increase the pressure on the rubber diaphragm at a steady pressure rate until the fabric
breaks / breaks.
Remove the pressure after the cloth has broken down. Record numbers on a scale up to the
nearest hundred grams.
3.4.3. Test Result
Fabric breakdown testing is carried out to determine the maximum pressure produced to break
down the knit fabric. For the results of testing of the three variations of the fabric are in Table 3 as
follows.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 27
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3471040
Ajisetia, Knit Fabric From Acrylic and Polycarbonate
Table 4. Data of Bursting Strength Test
Fabric Variation Temperature
Reduced
Acrylic 100% 77.03 N
1:1(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 87.69 N
1:2(Acrylic:Polycarbonate) 96.21 N
4. Discussion
In this section of the journal we will discuss the results of the tests that have been carried out,
and also we will compare it with the literature that we have.
4.1. Moisture Content and Moisture Regain
There are differences in the results of humidity in the variations of 100% acrylic, 1 acrylic 1
polycarbonate, and 1 polycarbonate 2 acrylics. The effect is that the more monofilament is inserted
into the acrylic knit fabric, the lower the moisture content and moisture regain. So, from the three
variations, it can be concluded that the insertion of monofilament polycarbonate can reduce the
percentage of moisture content and moisture regain in Figure 5 as follows.
Moisture Content
Figure 5. Chart of the moisture content & regain test
4.2. Determination of Mass per unit area
Tests of fabric grading on all three variations of the fabric were carried out to determine the
weight of the fabric of broad unity. According to Chang The more material, the greater the mass
(Chang, 2003). It can be seen from the picture that the more insertion of polycarbonate fibers in
knitted fabrics, the acrylic knit fabric will also increase in weight. As quoted by Leo, the density of
acrylic is 1.18 g / cm3 while for polycarbonate is 1.2 g / cm3 (Leo, 2010), therefore the addition of
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 28
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3471040
Ajisetia, Knit Fabric From Acrylic and Polycarbonate
polycarbonate can add weight to the fabric. Test results obtained following the literature above in
Figure 6 as follows.
Figure 6. Chart of mass per unit area
4.3. Termography Test
In Figure 7 can be seen that the more fiber is inserted, the greater the temperature is reduced.
Following the literature according to Iman Mujiarto polycarbonate has low flammability (Mujiarto,
2005). Polycarbonate (polycarbonate) is an engineering plastic made from a condensation reaction of
bisphenol A with phosphorus (phosgene) in alkaline media. (Mujiarto, 2005). Bisphenol A (BPA) is
one of the highest production chemicals in the world. BPA is found mainly in polycarbonate plastic
containers and aluminum can epoxy resin layers (Groff, 2010).
temperature inCelcius
Figure 7. Chart of reduced knit fabric temperature 29
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3471040
Ajisetia, Knit Fabric From Acrylic and Polycarbonate
4.4. Bursting Strength Test
In bursting strength test is to determine the maximum pressure needed to break down the knit
fabric. In the test, the results of the test are obtained with the chart in Figure 8. In Figure 8 it can be
seen that the more fiber insertion in the knit fabric, the greater the power needed to break down the
knit fabric. This is caused by the presence of polycarbonate fibers that are between the entanglement
of knit fabrics. According to Mujiarto polycarbonate has good impact strength properties (Mujiarto,
2005).
Figure 8. Chart of reduced knit fabric temperature
5. Conclusion
Knitted fabrics made of acrylic yarn can be inserted polycarbonate monofilament during the
knitting process using a flat knitting machine. The knit fabric is carried out for moisture content &
regain test, mass per unit area test, and also bursting strength test to give the information of
humidity, mass, and strength of the fabric. The thermography test is to prove the character of the
polycarbonate monofilament. The visual result of the thermography test is the more polycarbonate
monofilament was inserted on the fabric the darker the result was. The result of reduced temperature
is the more polycarbonate monofilament was inserted on the fabric temperature will more reduce.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 30
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3471040
Ajisetia, Knit Fabric From Acrylic and Polycarbonate
References
1. Adanur, S., & Tewari, A. (1997). An overview of military textile. 350-351.
2. Brydson, J. (1999). PLASTICS MATERIALS. Boston: Lliffe Books.
3. Chang, R. (2003). Kimia Dasar Konsep-Konsep Inti Jilid 1 Edisi Ketiga. Jakarta: Erlangga.
4. Europe, P. (2018). Plastic - The Facts 2017. 9.
5. Groff, T. (2010). Bisphenol A: invisible pollution. 524.
6. Hurley, R. (1966). The Dimensional Stability Of Acrylic Knit Fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 993.
7. Ibeh, C. C. (2011). Thermo Plastic. London: CRC PRESS.
8. Leo, D. (2010, May 20). Density/Massa Jenis Plastik. Retrieved from Plastic Indonesia:
http://www.plastic.web.id/forum/density-massa-jenis-plastik/
9. Mujiarto, I. (2005). SIFAT DAN KARAKTERISTIK MATERIAL PLASTIK DAN BAHAN ADITIF.
10. Noerati. (2013). BAHAN AJAR PENDIDIKAN & LATIHAN PROFESI GURU TEKNOLOGI TEKSTIL.
Bandung: Sekolah Tinggi Teknologi Tekstil.
11. Ozturk, M. K., Nergis, B., & Candan, C. (2011). A study of wicking properties of cotton- acrylic yarns and
knitted fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 324.
12. Priowirjanto, G. H. (2001). MENGIDENTIFIKASI SERAT TEKSTIL. Suraaya: DEPARTEMEN
PENDIDIKAN NASIONAL.
13. Siregar, Y., & Eriningsih, R. (2011). KAIN RAJUT KAPAS DENGAN SISIPAN BENANG KARBON. Arena
Tekstil, 65.
14. Suryana. (2010). METODOLOGI PENELITIAN. Bandung: UNIVERSITAS PENDIDIKAN
INDONESIA.
15. Syahputra, R. (2010). Aplikasi Deteksi Citra Termografi Untuk Pendeteksian Keretakan Permukaan
Material. Forum Teknik, 19.
16. Thompson, J. S., Kraus, R. G., & Covington, A. (2008). Infrared absorption spectroscopy of polycarbonate at
high pressure. 734.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 31
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3471040
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
Sopyan Souri1, Karlina Somantri2*
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-812-2022-0260
Abstract: One of ways to do quality control is to duplicate the method of Traffic Light System (TLS).
The Traffic Light System works in the same way as the traffic light system in transportation. It has red,
yellow and green lights. The red light shows that production must stop because there are many defects
produced in the production process. Yellow lights mean warning signs and for green lights means that
production runs smoothly without any defects. The Traffic Light System in the garment industry is
designed to mark problems found in the production process that allow immediate action to be taken
from all production processes that have the potential to produce defective products. Traffic Light
System can be used to do quality control effectively. At the same time it can also measure the level of
performance of each operator in order to make products meet the standards. CV X produces Muslim
fashion. When producing veils, there were problems with the number of products has seam defects,
452 pieces from the total production of 3157 pieces (14.31%). After applying the Traffic Light System
method, the number of product defects was reduced to 230 pieces from the total production of 3058
pieces (7.52%). After the implementation of the Traffic Light System in the company, there was a
decrease in defective products 6.79%.
Keywords: quality control; Traffic Light System; defect; in-line inspection, sewing line
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Quality control is an activity which has very important effect in the production process. To ensure
good product in production output, a control function is needed during the production process. Traffic
Light System is a system that is implemented by several companies to control and improve product
quality in the production process so that it can ensure that quality and production run well. The Traffic
Light System was first introduced by JC Peny for its suppliers [7]. A study conducted by a group of
students explained that there was a decrease in rework from 2.14% to 1.01% on the sewing line in the
company Gokilaa Garments Tripur [6]. CV. X is one of the manufacturing industries that produces
Muslim hijabs and clothing. At CV X there were found 452 pieces of product defects from the total
production of 3157 pieces. The defect causes the product to be returned to the production line to be
32
Sopyan Souri : The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
repaired. Traffic Light System is implemented in the company to control and control product quality
so that it can minimize product repairs
2. Materials and Methods
The materials needed for the application of Traffic Light System quality control methods are
quality control reports from the Quality Controller, Traffic Light System forms, and stationery. In this
method the quality controller fills out a form to record the results of the operator's work inspection in
inline quality control. The goal is to make it easier to analyze the results of inspection data. On the
Traffic Light System form, there are some information that shows in line quality control that checks the
working result of the operator. The information as follow; the name of the operator, the production
line, the process carried out by the operator, date. The color describes the working results. Green color
means there are no defects, yellow color means found one defect and red color means two or more
defects were found. In addition, there are dates filled in accordance with when the production is carried
out, operator working hours, color information filled in according to how many operators make
defective products. Defect information filled in according to company specifications. Traffic Light
System is formed to facilitate inline quality controller to give defect codes and defect classifications.
After all filled day by day, the form will be signed by the head of Quality Control Department, inline
Quality Controller and production supervisor. This traffic light system is applied to all sewing
operators in the sewing line.
3. Results
3.1 The application of Traffic Light System
Traffic Light System form that used in CV X as follow (see Figure 1)
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 33
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470984
Sopyan Souri : The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
Figure 1. Traffic Light Systemform in CV X
Quality controller performs quality checks every 2 hours randomly on each operator. The number
of items inspected is 7 pieces per operator. If no defect is found, a green ribbon will be given to the
operator. If 1 piece of defective goods is found in 7 pieces of items examined, a yellow ribbon the will
be given to the operator. If 2 or more defective items are found, a red ribbon is given to the operator
(see Fig. 2). This random checking is applied to all the operators on the sewing line.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 34
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470984
Sopyan Souri : The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
Figure 2.The application ofTraffic Light Systemin CV X
When the operator gets a green ribbon, the operator is always motivated to maintain accuracy and
increase the ability of doing their work. Operators marked with yellow bands are always given
direction and motivation so that their work can be done more carefully so that it can produce good
products. Operators are also reminded not to get a red ribbon because it will harm themselves and the
company. Operators who get a red ribbon, are motivated to work more closely and do the best of their
sewing skills while doing work. Supervisor will also give the examples or corrections on how to do
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 35
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470984
Sopyan Souri : The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
certain processes. If many defective products are caused by the machines, the mechanics will
immediately do the reparation andmake the report to the maintenance head.
3.2 Comparative results of rework defective goods di sewing line before and afterTraffic Light
SystemIs Applied
Table 1. Comparative results of number of defect goods, before and after the application of Traffic
Light System
Before Traffic Light System After Traffic Light System
Day Good Total % production Day REWORK Good Total %
quality Output quality Output production
REWORK (pieces) (pieces) target/day (pieces) (pieces) (pieces) target/day
(pieces) (805 pieces)
803 (805 pieces) 674 732
790 690 747 90,93%
1 129 674 788 99,70% 1 58 722 784 92,80%
776 98% 57 718 773 97,40%
2 110 680 3157 2 60 2804 3058
97,80% 55 96%
3 101 687 96,40% 3 230 7,52%
94,28%
4 112 664 97.97% 4
TOTAL 452 2705 TOTAL
X
X 14,31% %
%
output output
% %
Rework
Rework
4. Discussion
After the implementation of the Traffic Light System, there are several influences that arise, as
follows: reducing the number of defective products at the time of production, because checks are
carried out periodically, randomly, so that each operator must ensure that the products they produce
are of good quality.
This Traffic Light System method is considered effective in reducing the number of defects that
occur because it can find defects directly from the source. In addition, the Traffic Light System method
also increases the operators’ awareness and does their jobs more carefully. Systemic Traffic Light is
more effective than other quality tools because of its visual communication. At the same time it
measures operator performance level in quality. No operators like being presented themselves as lower
quality makers. So they concentrate on quality aspect during stitching garments. Lack of applied TLS
method CV X is the summary of the report was written on paper. To be improved, it is better if CV X
implemented TLS online system.
References
1. Islam, M & Rahman, M. (2013). Enhancing lean supply chain through traffic light quality management
system.Management Science Letters , 3(3), 867-878
2. Ahyari,Agus.; ManajemenProduksi, PengendalianProduksiedisiempat, bukudua, BPFE: Yogyakarta, 2002.
3. Gitosudarmo, Indriyo.;ManajemenProduksi, BPFE: Yogyakarta, 1991.
4. Texeurop, Procedure for Traffic Light Quality System 2013
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 36
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470984
Sopyan Souri : The Application of Traffic Light System on CV X
5. Sewing Traffic Light System. Available online : www.garments-info.com (accessed on 02-07-2019)
6. A Visual Quality Control Tool. Available online : www.fibre2fashion.com (accessed 02-017-2019
7. Traffic Light System for Quality Inspection inGarment Manufacturing. Available online:
www.onlineclothingstudy.ac.id (accessed on 02-07-2018).
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 37
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470984
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
An Effort to Increase the Assembling Process Outputs
of Superstar Model Shoes by Reducing Cycle Time
Based on Quantification of Fuzzy Failure Mode and
Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
Tina Martina1, Saifurohman2, Apridayani3
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
3 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
Abstract: Based on observations at PT. Parkland World Indonesia, 17C assembling line is known to
never reach the production target compared to other lines with the same process, this is the lowest of
the 13 lines in Building 2. To analyze the assembling process, Fuzzy Failure Mode and Effect Analysis
(Fuzzy FMEA) tools are used to obtain the highest risk priority number (RPN) and Fuzzy risk priority
number (FRPN) as a reference for priority improvements. 8 assembling sub-processes are known to
be in the not ideal category, so that the severity, occurrence, and detection must be assessed and
processed into FRPN output using the matlab application. Corrective action is carried out by the
Process Activity Mapping method to be able to classify each activity so that the type VA (value
added), NVA (non value added), and NVAN (non value added but necessary) can be identified.
Every NVA activity will be removed to reduce CT. After repairs, the total CT of the assembling
process was successfully reduced. On the first day of repairs, the output produced increased by
57pairs/ day. In addition, the results of the recalculation show that the FRPN value of the repaired
process has decreased, which indicates that the process has undergone improvement.
Keywords: Fuzzy Failure Mode and Effect Analysis, Lean Manufacturing, Process Activity Mapping
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Since 2011, Indonesia has entered the Industry 4.0 Revolution [17]. In order to meet the
industrial revolution 4.0, PT. Parkland World Indonesia (PT. PWI) seeks to increase the use of robots
and automation in the shoe production process to increase the productivity. The use of machines and
robots has been set automatically in order to meet the expected output target. But in fact, there are
still some obstacles that cause nonoptimal productivity. There are four main processes in the
production process of Superstar model shoes including the cutting process, preparation, sewing, and
assembling process. In the assembling process, the line 17C’s output is the lowest of the 13 lines in
Building 2, this assembling line never reaches the target compared to other lines that work on the
38
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
same process. This is due to the actual cycle time exceeds takt time due to waste in the production
process carried out by the operator. Waste that is carried out includes waste of movement and waste
due to excessive processes. These kind of wastes cause the processing time becomes longer. Waste is
an activity that absorbs, or wastes resources such as expense or additional time but does not add any
value to the activity [38]. Problems in the production process such as waste must be immediately
eliminated because it will cause the production process flow to be hampered. In the assembling
process there were 21 sub-processes involving 38 operators. Therefore, an analysis tool is needed so
that the improvement of cycle time for the assembling process can be done effectively and efficiently.
The use of FMEA helps companies find the most dominant mistakes that will be given a solution /
improvement. FMEA is a research method to determine how a product, process or system might fail
and the possible effects of the failure mode [35]. Fuzzy FMEA is a development model of the
conventional FMEA method, adding Fuzzy concepts to the FMEA algorithm allows linguistic data
[28] and the numerical data used has a membership value for each attribute [20]. By using fuzzy
FMEA and lean manufacturing, we do analysis and improvements in this assembling process. This
study aims to increase production output through cycle time reduction by improving based on
FMEA, in the assembling sub-process with the highest FRPN value or the highest ranking process.
2. Materials and Methods
FMEA's tool with fuzzy logic as a form of conventional FMEA development, is used to
prioritize improvements in sub-processes that have a cycle time value that exceeds takt time, by
rating the process with the highest RPN value in the production department of Building 2. To get the
RPN value, we need to determine the severity, occurrence and detection. Observation data was
collected on March 25, 2019 to April 5 2019. Data collected were primary data obtained directly from
the object of research at PT. PWI through interviews, direct observation, output data, targets per day
of the assembling process, machinery data, tools, and components used, and actual data cycle time
using time studies.
Determination of severity is based on the amount of cycle time deviation from takt time. PT.
PWI sets a 15% allowance, so that, cycle times with values less than equal to takt time are reduced by
15% takt time (CT≤85% TT). Occurrence is determined based on the chance of a process experiencing
excessive cycle time. Opportunities for occurrence have values between 0 and 1. While, to determine
detection, depends on how much the process requires control. Manual processes tend to require
greater control than the process that is done with the machine.
Severity, occurence, and detection are determined in 8 assembling sub-processes which are
considered to have inappropriate cycle time, by distributing questionnaires to 6 correspondents who
get involved in the brainstorming process, including production manager, line manager, and 4
administrative staff in Building 2. The assessment results of the 6 correspondents are averaged and
processed for ranking based on FRPN using the matlab application. The values for each severity,
occurence, and detection are entered as input data and processed into FRPN output. The process with
the highest FRPN value or with the highest ranking is analyzed using Process Activity Mapping
(PAM), by classifying value added activities (VA), non value added activities (NVA), and non value
added but necessary activities (NVAN).
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 39
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
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