Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
The NVA activities are then improved by turning them into more efficient activities, or even
eliminating them if possible. Activities that include wastage of excess process must also be eliminated
to shorten the steps, so that the processing time becomes more effective. The Improvements can be
done by improving movements, steps, and other improvements related to efforts to eliminate waste
of movement and excessive processes.
3. Results
Based on the study’s results, the production target set was 1.200 pairs / day for each line. Below
is the output data from the assembling process in Building 2, three days before the research is carried
out based on the production report.
Table 1. Output of Building 2 assembling process
Line Working Day 1 Working Day 2 Working Day 3
Hours Hours Hours
1.235 10 1.245
13A 10 1.240 10 1.218 10 1.234
1.220 10 1.230
13B 10 1.221 10 1.220 10 1.220
1.233 10 1.225
14A 10 1.210 10 1.228 10 1.230
1.210 10 1.208
14B 10 1.215 10 1.216 10 1.210
1.215 10 1.208
15A 10 1.220 10 1.200 10 1.198
1.108 10 1.100
15B 10 1.240 10 1.201 10 1.205
1.190 10 1.185
16A 8 968 10
16B 8 980 10
17A 10 1.210 10
17B 10 1.204 10
17C 8 877 10
18A 10 1.198 10
18B 10 1.180 10
Source: Production Department PT. PWI
Based on the above data, it can be concluded that the output of the 17C assembling line is the
lowest compared to the others. There are several sub-processes in the assembling process having an
excessive cycle time. The cycle time data of the assembling sub-process is presented in Table 2 as
follow:
Table 2. Data cycle time assembling process line 17C
No Process Name Day 1 CT/TT Day 2 CT/TT Max
(sec) (%) (sec) (%) (%)
1 Hotmelt heel counter
2 Press back part molding 1 26,64 89% 27,08 90% 90%
3 Strobel stitching 27,37 91% 28,82 96% 96%
4 Laste insert on the upper 20,55 68% 22,12 74% 74%
5 Gauge marking laste 20,92 70% 22,08 74% 74%
6 Hand grinding 22,84 76% 22,32 74% 76%
25,51 85% 26,17 87% 87%
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805 40
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
No Process Name Day 1 CT/TT Day 2 CT/TT Max
(sec) (%) (sec) (%) (%)
22,17 74% 78%
7 Transfer 1 23,42 78% 34,79 116% 120%
32,76 109% 122%
8 Primary upper 36,08 120%
24,42 81% 83%
9 Cement upper 36,50 122%
24,89 83% 30,53 102% 102%
10 Embed toe cap and outsole and 26,78 89% 32,54 108% 108%
universal press 21,82 73% 79%
15,32 51% 56%
11 Wire brush shoes 23,60 79% 79%
24,99 83% 83%
12 Open the rope and open laste 31,85 106% 18,32 61% 94%
17,14 57% 57%
13 Ariance stitching 23,67 79% 21,19 71% 72%
14 Checking bonding 16,77 56% 20,49 68% 68%
15 Attach the sockliner 21,14 70% 18,35 61% 61%
507
16 Attach the rope 24,59 82%
17 Clean shoes and repairing 28,34 94%
18 TQC finishing 16,23 54%
19 Folding inner box 21,54 72%
17,35 58%
20 Attach the inner box label and the 16,68 56%
hangtag
21 Final QC and packing
Total 509,6
Source: Production Department Building 2, PT. PWI
Based on the review and brainstorming results, it was decided that based on the two day cycle
time calculation, the process that is categorized as having a risk of failure is a process that has a cycle
time value of more than 25.5 seconds, or if it is percentage in the cycle time/takt time ratio more than
85%. From Table 2, it can be concluded that there are 8 processes that fall into the criteria of the failure
process, including:
Table 3. Process with high risk of failure
No Process Name Day 1 Day 2 Median Maximum
1 Hotmelt heel counter 89% 90% 88% 90%
95% 96%
2 Press back part molding 91% 96% 86% 87%
115% 120%
3 Hand grinding 85% 87% 115% 122%
96% 102%
4 Primary upper 120% 116% 107% 108%
79% 94%
5 Cement upper 122% 109%
6 Wire brush shoes 89% 102%
7 Open the rope and open laste 106% 108%
8 Clean shoes and repairing 94% 61%
Source: Production Department Building 2, PT. PWI
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 41
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
From the 8 processes above, assessment, ranking and categories are carried out using RPN
based on the formula RPN = S (Severity) × O (Occurrence) × D (Detection) and FRPN (Fuzzy Risk
Priority Number) using the matlab application with the following results:
Table 4. Comparison of values, categories, and ratings between RPN and FRPN
No Process Name Average RPN Rank Cat. FRPN Rank Cat.
1 Hotmelt heel counter SO D 37,6 9 VL 45,7 9 VL
2 Press back part molding 108 7 L 214,8 6 L-M
3 Hand grinding 1 4,7 8 45,6 9 VL 9 VL
4 Primary upper 374 4 M-H 45,7 3
5 Cement upper 3 4,5 8 382,8 4 M-H 525,9 3 H
6 Wire brush shoes 1 5,7 8 77,7 8 VL-L 525,4 7 H
7 Open the rope and open 8,5 8,8 5 402 4 M-H 141,1 3 L
8,7 8,8 5 495,4 H
laste 3,7 4,2 5
8 Clean shoes and repairing 6,7 6,7 9 VL-L
Source: PT. PWI
Remarks: Cat. (Categories) 1 4,2 9 37,5 9 VL 50,2 8
In the table above, it can be concluded that the top rank for the failure process is in the primary
upper, cement upper, and open rope and open laste. The three processes are ranked 4 based on the
calculation of RPN with the M-H category (moderate to high) while based on FRPN calculations are
ranked 3 with the category H (High). Then, these three processes were mapped using PAM to analyze
VA, NVA, and NVAN, therefore, types of activities that did not provide added value could be
identified and then eliminated. The results of mapping before and after repairs are as follows:
Table 5. PAM of primary upper process
No Component Task Component Type of Point Point
1 Take shoes Task Time Activity Observed Observed
Before (sec) After (sec)
(sec) VA
1,40 0,78
2,56 VA 1,16 1,36
27,71 23,74
2 Primary upper 61,41 VA 33,70 24,18
smearing 1,87 0,82 0,45
NVA 1,05 0,51
3 Put down the shoes 41,18
NVA 41,81 51,02
4 Clean the brush 0,69 11,2 51,02
NVA 8,34
5 Open the shoes, 0,16 5,68 0
check the size 0,14 sec/pair 10,78 0
VA 25,51
6 Insert the rope NVA
Time for 1 Cycle (sec) 66,83 NVAN
65,84 CT
0,99
0
33,42
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 42
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
Source: PT. PWI
*Remarks, at the observed point of activity number 4,5,6 were observed in 1 hour, so it needs
to be divided by 120 (target 120/hour) to get the task time.
Based on the results of the PAM mapping of the primary upper process, it can be seen that
there are three activities categorized as the type of NVA activity, they are cleaning the brush, opening
shoes to check the size and inserting the rope/ shoelace. After monitoring the operator by eliminating
all NVA activities and improve the smearing movement, re-mapping using PAM is done with the
cycle time results decreasing. The cycle time process before improvement was 33.42 seconds, while
after improvement, has been reduced to 25.51 seconds. These three types of NVA consume a portion
of 1.5% of the primary upper activity, so that it does not have a large effect.
Table 6. PAM of cement upper process
Component Type of Point Point
No Component Task Task Time Activity Observed Observed
Before (sec) After (sec)
(detik)
1 Take shoes 2,37 VA 1,12 1,15
1,25 1,35
2 Primary upper 65,11 VA 29,33 23,76
smearing 35,78 28,43
3 Put down the shoes 2,27 VA 0,82 0,77
1,45 1,25
4 Clean the brush 0,17 NVA 64,52
70,62
5 Open the shoes, 1,13 NVA 11,57
check the size 9,00
71,05 sec/pair 56,71
69,75 VA 56,71
1,30 NVA 0
0 NVAN 0
Time for 1 Cycle (sec) 35,525 CT 28,355
Source: PT PWI
*Remarks, at the observed point of activity number 4,5 were observed in 1 hour, so it needs to
be divided by 120 (target 120/hour) to get the task time.
NVA activity of cement upper process is 1.86%. The improvement process was done by
eliminating all the NVA activity. The cycle time of cement upper process after improvement is 28,355
seconds. Much better than before improvement, 35.525 seconds.
Table 7. PAM of open the rope and open laste process
No Component Task Component Type of Point Point
1 Take shoes Task Time Activity Observed Observed
Before (sec) After (sec)
(sec) VA
3,15 2,67
3,15 VA 0 0
2 Open the rope 14,23 7,10 7,38
7,13 7,80
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 43
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
No Component Task Component Type of Point Point
3 Pull the rope Task Time Activity Observed Observed
Before (sec) After (sec)
(sec) VA
2,52 2,17
4,59 2,07 2,47
4 Put down the rope 2,88 VA 1,54 1,12
VA 1,34 Put down the
5 Put down the 1,03 rope &tongue
tongue 2,41 1,38 1
6 Put down the shoes 1,00 VA 1,00 0,83
00
7 Check the size 0,14 NVA 16,55 0
00
8 Tidy up the lorry 1,28 NVA 154 0
00
9 Returns an incorrect 0,48 NVA 57 0
size 0 0
30,16 sec/pair 25,44
28,26 VA 25,44
1,90 NVA 0
0 NVAN 0
Time for 1 Cycle (sec) 30,16 CT 25,44
Source: PT PWI
*Remarks, at the observed point of activity number 7,8,9 were observed in 1 hour, so it needs
to be divided by 120 (target 120/hour) to get the task time.
Based on the observations results, 6.72% of activities in the process of opening the rope and
opening laste were NVA activities. After the NVA activity removed and there is an improvement in
movement, the cycle time is successfully reduced to 25.44 seconds which is initially 30.16 seconds.
After the improvement process, cycle time is checked again to make sure that the improvement
results are succeed. Cycle time data after improvements on the primary upper process, cement upper,
and open the rope and open laste are presented in the following table:
Table 8. Cycle time after improvements
No Process Name Day 1 CT/TT Day 2 CT/TT Max
(sec) (%) (sec) (%) (%)
1 Hotmelt heel counter
2 Press back part molding 1 24,52 82% 28,45 95% 95%
3 Strobel stitching 27,63 92% 25,05 84% 92%
4 Laste insert on the upper 21,80 73% 22,24 74% 74%
5 Gauge marking laste 21,12 70% 22,23 74% 74%
6 Hand grinding 22,07 74% 22,83 76% 76%
7 Transfer 1 25,83 86% 26,75 89% 89%
22,13 74% 21,73 72% 74%
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805 44
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
No Process Name Day 1 CT/TT Day 2 CT/TT Max
(sec) (%) (sec) (%) (%)
83% 25,81 86% 86%
8 Primary upper 24,96 88% 27,82 93% 93%
9 Cement upper 26,54 84% 26,07 87% 87%
10 Embed toe cap and outsole and 25,34
85% 31,53 105% 105%
universal press 25,37 88% 29,66 99% 99%
11 Wire brush shoes 26,45 77% 21,78 73% 77%
12 Open the rope and open laste 23,22 51% 15,78 53% 53%
13 Ariance stitching 15,33 71% 20,30 68% 71%
14 Checking bonding 21,42 75% 23,82 79% 79%
15 Attach the sockliner 22,57 81% 24,61 82% 82%
16 Attach the rope 24,17 65% 15,83 53% 65%
17 Clean shoes and repairing 19,54 74% 20,68 69% 74%
18 TQC finishing 22,23 54% 31,78
19 Folding inner box 16,31 106% 106%
20 Attach the inner box label and the 63% 17,23
18,89 502 57% 63%
hangtag
21 Final QC and packing
Total 477,4
Source: Production Department Building 2, PT. PWI
Based on Table 2 and Table 8, it can be seen the cycle time differences for the three processes
that have been improved. The initial cycle time for the primary upper process was 36.06 seconds and
34.79 seconds, after improvements becomes 24.96 seconds and 25.81 seconds, for the cement upper
cycle time process from 36.50 seconds and 32.76 seconds to 26.54 seconds and 27.82 seconds, while the
process of opening the rope and opening the laste, initial cycle time was 31.85 seconds and 32.54
seconds becomes 26.45 seconds and 29.66 seconds. The total cycle time of the assembling process was
also successfully reduced, the total cycle time before improvements was 509.6 seconds and 507
seconds was successfully reduced to 477.4 seconds. In addition, the output also increased on the first
day after the improvement process. Output per day which was initially 1,100 pairs on the first and
second day before improvements, managed to rise to 1,157 pairs on the first day after improvements.
After the cycle time data is re-collected, then the process is eliminated with a cycle time ≥ 85%
TT as a process that is considered to have a risk of failure. There are 9 processes that fall into the
category for the assessment of the new S, O, D. Then the assessment of RPN and FRPN was carried
out by distributing questionnaires to the same correspondent. RPN and FRPN calculations are carried
out again to ensure that the improved process has decreased RPN and FRPN. Later, the value of
FRPN can be used as a reference for future action.
Table 9. Process with high risk of failure
No Process Name Day 1 Day 2 Median Maximum
1 Hotmelt heel counter 82% 95% 86% 95%
2 Press back part molding 92% 84% 90% 92%
3 Hand grinding 86% 89% 91% 89%
4 Primary upper 83% 86% 86% 86%
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 45
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
No Process Name Day 1 Day 2 Median Maximum
5 Cement upper 88% 93% 90% 93%
84% 87%
6 Embed toe cap and outsole and 84% 87%
87% 105%
universal press 98% 99%
7 Wire brush shoe 85% 105% 58% 106%
8 Open the rope and open the 88% 99%
laste
9 Attach inner box label and 54% 106%
attach hangtag
Source: Production Department Building 2, PT. PWI
Table 10. Values, categories, and ratings of RPN and FRPN for future action
Average Categories
No Process Name S O D RPN Rank Categories FRPN Rank VL-L
1 Hotmelt heel counter 1,2 4,7 8 45,12 9 VL 90,7 8 L
and upper and attach 2 4,5 8 72 8 VL-L 130,4 7 L
try counter to upper VL-L
2 Press back part L
VL-L
molding
L-M
3 Hand grinding 1,8 5,7 8 82,08 8 VL-L 126,9 7 M
4 Primary upper 1 8,8 5 44 9 VL 50 8 M
5 Cement upper 2 8,8 5 88 8 VL-L 143,9 7
6 Embed toe cap and 1 7 8 56 8 VL-L 52,3 8
outsole and universal
press 4,7 4,2 5 98,7 8 VL-L 150,2 6
7 Wire brush shoe 3 6,7 9 180,9 6 L-M 299,9 5
8 Open the rope and
open laste 59 216 6 L-M 279,1 5
9 Attach inner box label 4,8
and attach hangtag
Source: Production Department Building 2, PT. PWI
Comparison of RPN and FRPN values based on Tables 4 and 9 are, in Table 4 the primary
upper process, cement upper, and open the rope and open laste shows that the ranking of the three
processes is ranked 4 based on the calculation of the RPN with medium to high category, FRPN is
ranked 3 in the high category. While after the results of the improvement, it can be seen that the
ranking for each process has decreased based on FRPN calculations. The primary upper process
drops to rank 8 with the category VL-L (very low to low, while the cement upper process is ranked 7
with the category L (low). For the process of opening the rope and opening laste, although it does not
experience a deep downgrade, as in the primary upper and cement upper processes, it still shows a
decrease in rating, which is ranked 5 in category M (moderate). A rating downgrade indicates that the
improvement process was declared successful based on the Fuzzy FMEA method. The calculation of
FRPN in Table 10 can be used as a reference for future improvement.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 46
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
4. Discussion
The results of the S, O, D assessment involving six correspondents through the questionnaire
obtained three processes with the highest ranking, and it is important to immediately take corrective
actions to these three processes, so that the cycle time can be reduced. Based on the results of the
PAM mapping in the primary upper process, there are three NVA activities, they are: cleaning the
brush, opening shoes to check the size and inserting the shoelace. Cleaning the brush is not the
operator's job, there should be a laboratory person that replaces the brush which is full of dry glue
with a new brush every hour. The operator also does not need to check the size of the shoe because it
can be seen directly on laste. The process of inserting a shoelace is also not the primary upper
operator’s job, but, it was the responsibility of the operator in the laste insert process, several
processes before the upper primary process. Then, during the primary upper smearing process, both
operators have excess time, especially the second operator, which is 27.71 seconds and 33.70 seconds.
The duration of the smearing process is caused by the ineffective operator movement, so that we do
the improvement by pulling the brush and keeps the pressure in order to make sure the glue is
smeared properly. With this improvement, cycle time was successfully decreased, which initially
33.42 seconds was successfully reduced to 25.51 seconds.
Furthermore, for the cement upper, this process is the same as the primary upper, except for
the type of the glue used. Problems found in the cement upper process are also almost the same as the
primary upper process, so the improvement process is not much different. The cycle time of cement
upper process after improvement is 28,355 seconds. Much better than before improvement, 35.525
seconds.
The third process is opening the rope and opening laste, this process is only carried out by an
operator, different with the primary upper and cement upper which done by two operators. In the
primary upper and cement upper process, the material is flowed by a conveyor, so that the process
control is easier. While, the tool used to open laste is kabogi with the pry tool, and opening the rope is
a manual by hand. 6.72% of the activity in this process is NVA, including checking size, tidying the
lorry, and returning the wrong size shoes. To ensure that the open rope and open laste’s operator
does not need to check the size and return shoes with different size/ wrong size, it is necessary for the
wire brush operator, which is the process before the rope opening and open laste process to do the
task. The open rope and open laste’s operator also has the habit of tidying up the lorry that has piled
up with laste, even though this task is one of the laste insert’s operator responsibility. Meanwhile for
the activity of putting a rope and putting a tongue, it should be done together, the right hand after
pulling the rope is continued to put the rope together with the left hand that was previously used to
hold the shoe, now used to put the tongue. After NVA activity is eliminated and there is an
improvement in right and left hand movements in the process of opening the rope and opening laste,
the cycle time is reduced to 25.44 seconds.
After some of improvements and supervision conducted, the total cycle time before
improvements was 509.6 seconds and 507 seconds, now has been reduced to 477.4 seconds. Moreover
the output on the first day after the improvement process increased, which initially 1,100 pairs on the
first and second day before improvements managed to rise to 1,157 pairs on the first day after
improvements. But on the second day after improvements, output dropped to 1,100 pairs. This is due
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 47
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
to operators returning to do some NVA activities because they are not familiar with the processes
after improvements, and lack of supervision. For this reason, it is necessary to do supervision and
further analyze to the causes of the decreasing output.
This study focuses on increasing production output by reducing cycle times in the assembling
process based on the results of fuzzy quantification of FMEA. We combine FMEA with lean
manufacturing, FMEA as a tool to identify potential failures, the effects that arise on the operation of
the product and identify actions to overcome these problems, while lean as a solution by applying
wasteless concept manufacturing by eliminating activities that have no value add on.
The assembling process is the process of combining several shoe components into complete
shoes. The 17C assembling line has 38 operators with various types of machines, tools, and
components used. Operator line 17C itself is a combination of operators taken from various lines in
various buildings at PT. PWI and formed less than half a year.
Determination of S, O, D, is based on cycle time deviations from takt time, but that does not
mean the cycle time value must be the same as takt time, because in fact, the operator requires an
allowance to carry out activities needed for the operator, such as drinking, toilet, prayer and other
needs. Therefore ideally cycle time cannot be the same as takt time, but it must be less than takt time,
if the company wants to reach the production target. PT. PWI sets a 15% allowance, so that the ideal
cycle time is less than equal to takt time minus 15% takt time (CT≤85% TT). So that, with a production
target 1,200pairs per day or 120pairs for each hour, the takt time or standard time to make one pair of
shoes is 30 seconds. If we use 15% allowance, then:
CT = TT - 15%TT
= 85%TT
= 25.5 seconds/pair.
The cycle time is calculated for two days, and it was decided that the process which is
categorized as having a risk of failure is a process that has a cycle time value of more than 25.5
seconds, or if it is percentage in the cycle time/takt time ratio more than 85%. Because there are two
data from cycle time observations, the data with a maximum cycle time value is used as a reference as
data that having a risk of failure.
The criteria for each severity, occurrence, and detection are also determined. The severity
criteria based on the percentage of the ratio of cycle time divided by takt time, to facilitate the
correspondent in assessing severity. Severity criteria are based on the comparison of cycle time
divided by takt time, to help the correspondent in measuring the severity. The occurence criteria are
determined based on the occurrence of un-ideal cycle time, therefore the chosen correspondents are
those who have worked for a long time in the production department, so that they are considered to
know more about the occurrence of failure in the processes of observation’s objects. While for
detection criteria refers to the type of sub-process in the assembling process. The process that is done
using machine tools will certainly be easier to control, so it is considered more reliable than the
manual process.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 48
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
Quantification Of Fuzzy Failure Mode And Effect Analysis (Fuzzy Fmea)
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Tina Martina : An Effort To Increase The Assembling Process Outputs Of Superstar Model Shoes By Reducing Cycle Time Based On
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Cola Bottling Indonesia Bandung Plant. 2018. Prosiding Seminar Nasional Penelitian & Pengabdian Pada
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DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470805
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Comparison of Fabric Hand with Sensory Comfort for
Knitted Clothes
Ateeq ur Rehman 1, Abher Rasheed 1, Muhammad Babar Ramzan 1*, Muhammad Salman Naeem 1
1 National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan; [email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +92-301-504-2823
Abstract: Sensory comfort is an important criterion in buying decision of garments. Consumers try to
judge wearing comfort by touching, rubbing and squeezing fabric with hand (Fabric Hand). Being
subjective in nature, the effectiveness of ‘fabric hand’ is under question. In this study, a detailed
approach has been adopted to compare ‘fabric hand’ with ‘wearer’s response’ on comfort. Single jersey
fabrics were made in 140 & 160 grams per square meters using cotton and poly-cotton blend yarns.
One half of each of the four fabrics was bleached to white while the other was dyed. In addition, a part
of each processed fabric was kept with normal finish while the second was applied with softener
finish. For fabric hand evaluation, a group of male and female volunteers was trained as per AATCC
evaluation procedure # 05. For sensory analysis, boxer shorts were prepared and the volunteers were
asked to wear them for day long and record responses. The response variables smoothness, stiffness,
roughness and tensile stretch and thickness were evaluated. It was concluded that fabric hand is
economical and reliable, where modern equipment cannot be used. Also, female panelists were found
better in subjective evaluation than males.
Keywords: Sensory comfort; fabric hand; knitted clothes
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
‘Comfort’ is one of the most important attribute of textile products, from consumer view point [1].
The first action that a buyer performs to evaluate the fabric is through the sense of touch. They often
try to make decision regarding comfort parameter; softness, stiffness, roughness, and drape of the
fabrics. The use of human senses in fabric evaluation is termed as sensory analysis [2]. There are
qualitative and quantitative techniques to evaluate physical properties, related to comfort, of fabrics.
The qualitative (descriptive) techniques, also known as sensory analysis, provide a perceived ranking
of a variables of interest, like roughness, stiffness, thickness etc. This involves subjective opinion for
relative grading of available fabrics or of a single fabric against a standard fabric. The quantitative
techniques, on the other hand, provide magnitude of the variables of interest [3].
“Sensory Analysis” is the tactile sensation experienced by touching the fabric inner side with the
body. It can be experienced by wearing garment for extended time which is time taking and
destructive. However, as a quick measure, a common user tries to develop perception, about comfort
of the garment, by treating fabric with hand which is termed as “Fabric Hand”. Fabric hand is the
sensation, experienced by touching, squeezing, rubbing and/or handling the fabric, with hand [4].
51
Ateeq ur Rehman, Fabric Hand Vs Wearing Comfort
Since both are subjective (qualitative) in nature, the results may vary from person to person. In the
pursuit of consistent and reliable results objective evaluation involves mechanical equipment. These
provide a numerical value of variable of interest [3]. Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing, Fabric Touch
Tester and Kawabata Evaluation System for fabrics are among the available equipment [5]. Objective
evaluation does not require any experienced personal for evaluation and has higher consistency. Being
subjective in nature, it may seem hard to develop consensus over sensory analysis yet it has its own
significance as it involves humans who are also the end users of textile products [6].
A number of people have worked to evaluate fabrics using subjective techniques (sensory
analysis) [3], [7]–[10]. Subjective assessment may vary depending upon different factors like human
age, sensitivity of the evaluator, gender of panelist (evaluator), duration of touching, force applied
during assessment, finger movement speed and skill. There is also a parallel or even bigger group who
tried to evaluate fabric objectively, using different equipment [11]–[14]. Objective assessment does not
ensure the full representation of the hand due to less involvement of human. But objective assessment
provides quantified results. In addition, some researchers have performed both types of assessments
(subjective and objective) in parallel and have tried to correlate their results [3], [15], [16].
It is apparent from the literature that objective evaluation provides basis to communicate the
perceived value of fabric/clothing comfort parameters at commercial level. However, from end user
view, there is still no substitute of subjective evaluation. A variety of different techniques exist for both
subjective and objective evaluation of fabrics. The results of subjective techniques vary based on
personal perception of individual while sensitivity of equipment is crucial to the objective evaluation.
The effectiveness of subjective techniques has been compared against objective evaluation but there is
certain gap to compare them against wearers perception of sensory comfort.
The present study focuses on to drive a relationship between fabric hand and wearer’s
perception of fabric comfort through sensory analysis. In addition, comparison was made between the
fabric hand results, obtained from male and female evaluators. The research is significant as it
provides insight on effectiveness of judging fabric comfort through hand which is most dominant in
end user buying.
2. Materials and Methods
Two yarns, Cotton and Polyester-Cotton (PC) blend were used to make single jersey fabrics in 140
and 160 grams per square meter (GSM) in each. The obtained four fabrics were divided into two equal
parts and one of each was bleached while the other was color dyed. Again from the eight samples half
of each was normal finished (no softener) while the other was treated with silicon softener. In all
sixteen samples were prepared for testing. Relevant factors and levels are given in Table 1. The
detailed design of experiment (DOE) is provided in Annex A, Table A1.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 52
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470823
Ateeq ur Rehman, Fabric Hand Vs Wearing Comfort
Table 1. Factors and Levels Total specimen
Levels 16
Material Cotton (100%) Polyester/Cotton (60/40)
Content
Factors Areal Density 140 GSM 160 GSM
Processing Bleaching Dyeing
Softener Finish 0 g/l 20 g/l
A renowned vertically integrated knitted textile & apparel manufacturer of Pakistan was engaged
in present research work. They developed fabric in mentioned GSM, using both material contents in
yarn count Ne = 30S. The TPI (turns per inch) for 100% cotton and PC yarns were 20.5 and 19
respectively. The prepared fabrics were processed according the mentioned routes and were also
finished according to the design of experiment. Obtained fabrics were marked for identification and
consequent future use in the study. For fabric hand evaluation, specimens were prepared according to
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorist (AATCC) Evaluation Procedure (EP) # 05.
Similarly, for wearing comfort responses, boxer shorts were prepared according to the commercial size
sets in 34 and 36 waist sizes because all the volunteers who took part in the study had one of the
mentioned two sizes.
In all twelve volunteers, including males and females, took part in the present study. All the
panelists were 21 to 23 years old. They were trained for eight weeks with two hours training session
per week, according to AATCC EP#05. The prepared specimens were provided to individual panelists
in random order and in separate locations so that they must record their own response. The panelists
were asked to evaluate five different physical properties of the fabric namely smoothness, thickness,
stiffness, tensile stretch and roughness. The responses were recorded on a scale of 0 to 5 with a division
of 0.5. Where 1 meant to be best and 5 was worst. The individual respondents performed hand
evaluation as per standard method AATCC EP#05. The results were ranked comparatively, out of
sixteen, using following Equation 1.
Comparative Rank = Average score × 16 (1)
5
For recording responses of wearing comfort, volunteers were asked to wear the sewn garments
for day long and record their responses accordingly. Same approach was adopted to rank the wearing
comfort responses.
3. Results and Discussions
The results of fabric hand evaluation were compared to wearing comfort of the garments. All five
response variables were compared for analysis. In addition, the correlation matrices were drawn to
check the nature of relation between two responses, as shown in Figure 1. (a), (b), (c), (d), (e).
In all the graphs X-axis represents the number of specimen from one to sixteen and Y-axis
represent respective comparative ranking of specimens for mentioned response variable. The
individual graphs and further correlation matrix of each physical parameter show that there is a
significant positive correlation between fabric hand and wearer’s evaluation of sensory comfort.
Particularly, the correlation is highly positive in case of evaluating thickness, tensile stretch and
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 53
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470823
Ateeq ur Rehman, Fabric Hand Vs Wearing Comfort
smoothness. It is enough of the evidence to say that no matter there are technological advancements in
measuring fabric comfort parameter, yet fabric hand is economical and effective way of fabric
evaluation.
15 Smoothness 15 Stiffness
10 10
55
0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Fabric Hand Wearer's Response Fabric Hand Wearer's Evaluation
F/Hand W/ Evaluation F/Hand W/Evaluation
F/Hand 1 F/Hand 1
W/Evaluation
W/ Evaluation 0.936283 1 0.8576705 1
(a) (b)
20
20
Tensile Stretch
Roughness
15
15
10 10
55
0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Fabric Hand Wearer's Evaluation Fabric Hand Sensory Evaluation
F/Hand W/Evaluation F/Hand W/Evaluation
1
F/Hand F/Hand 1
W/Evaluation
W/Evaluation 0.876227 1 0.958906 1
(c) (d)
20 Thickness
0
1 F2ab3ric4Ha5nd6 7 8 9W1e0a1r1e1r2's1E3v1a4lu15at1i6on
F/Hand W/Evaluation
F/Hand 1
W/Evaluation 0.962343 1
(e)
Figure 1. Comparison of Fabric Hand Evaluation with Wearer’s Evaluation for: (a) Smoothness;
(b) Stiffness; (c) Roughness; (d) Tensile Stretch; (e) Thickness
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 54
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470823
Ateeq ur Rehman, Fabric Hand Vs Wearing Comfort
Further investigation was done to analyze responses of male and female panelists. Both of the
fabric hand evaluation results, by male and female, were drawn against the wearer’s responses,
mentioned with “Touch” in the graph legends. Also correlation matrix was obtained to embark light
on individual relationships as shown in Figure 2. (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e).
15 20
Smoothness Stiffness
10
10
5
0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Touch Males Females Touch Males Females
Touch Males Females Touch Males Females
Touch 1 Touch 1
Males
Females 0.688 1 Males 0.2198 1
0.894 0.436 1 Females 0.81 -0.2215 1
(a) (b)
20 20
Roughness Tensile stretch
10
10
0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Touch Male F/Male Touch Male F/Male
Touch Male F/Male Touch Male F/Male
1 1 1
Touch 1 Touch 1 1
Male 0.2924 -0.22064 Male 0.9046 0.8826
F/Male 0.766 F/Male 0.9521
(c) (d)
20
Thickness
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10111213141516
Touch Males Females
Touch Males Females
Touch 1 1
Males 0.9394
Females 0.8413 0.7124 1
(e)
Figure 2. Comparison of Fabric Hand Evaluation of Male and Female Panelists with Wearer’s
Evaluation for: (a) Smoothness; (b) Stiffness; (c) Roughness; (d) Tensile Stretch; (e) Thickness
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 55
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470823
Ateeq ur Rehman, Fabric Hand Vs Wearing Comfort
It is important to note, from graphical representations, there are very weak correlations in the
hand evaluation results of males and females for smoothness and even negative correlations for
roughness and stiffness. It indicates that the average scores of male and female evaluators for
smoothness, roughness and stiffness were far different. However, there were good positive
correlations between hand evaluation of male and females for thickness and slightly strong for
tensile stretch. From the individual responses, female panelists responses had strong positive
correlation to wearer’s evaluation (touch).
Hand evaluations of males were weekly correlated to wearer’s response on roughness and
stiffness. While strong positive correlation was observed in case of tensile stretch and thickness;
smoothness was also positively correlated. In addition to the above, it was further analyzed that
overall weak correlations existed in hand evaluation and wearer’s evaluation in case of judging
stiffness for PC blended yarns and dyed fabrics. Male evaluators were mainly deceived while
evaluating roughness and stiffness of normal finish (no softener), dyed fabrics and PC yarn content.
Similarly, female panelists remained unable to match wearer’s perception of comfort in judging
stiffness of dyed fabrics only while for other responses they had a good positive to strong positive
correlations. The possible causes of strong positive correlations between female hand evaluations
and wearer’s perception perhaps can be explained by understanding skin structure. This might be
because of the fact that female skin is thinner than male skin which might enhance functioning of
underlying receptor cells. Further investigation, therefore, may be conducted in this direction.
4. Conclusions
It was concluded from study findings, that overall fabric hand evaluation and wearer’s
evaluation had strong positive correlation. Therefore, ‘fabric hand’ can be used confidently to
evaluate wearing comfort of the fabric and garments. However, some weak correlations were found
in the evaluation of fabric stiffness. Further analysis revealed that ‘fabric hand’ by female panelists
had strong positive correlation with wearer’s response which proofs that females can better evaluate
fabric hand as compared to men and reason might exist in skin structure difference of females and
males which requires further investigation. The study findings shall provide basis to use hand
evaluation confidently where sophisticated equipment cannot be employed.
References
1. P. W. H. Lee, “Neural Network Prediction of Human Psychological Perceptions of Clothing Sensory
Comfort,” Text. Res. J., vol. 73, no. 1, pp. 31–37, 2003.
2. G. Ozcelik, G. Supuren, and T. Gulumser, “A Study on Subjective and Objective Evaluation of the Handle
Properties of Shirt Fabrics,” Fibers Text., vol. 16, no. 3, pp. 56–62, 2008.
3. A. V. Cardello, C. Winterhalter, and H. G. Schutz, “Predicting the Handle and Comfort of Military
Clothing Fabrics from Sensory and Instrumental Data: Development and Application of New
Psychophysical Methods,” Text. Res. J., vol. 73, no. 3, pp. 221–237, Mar. 2003.
4. AATCC Comittee, “Exposure, Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture,” AATCC - Tech. Man. Vol. 82,
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vol. 82, p. 348,349, 2001.
5. A. Das and R. Alagirusamy, Science in clothing Comfort, vol. 53, no. 9. 2010.
6. I. L. Ciesielska-Wrobel and L. Van Langenhove, “The hand of textiles - definitions, achievements,
perspectives - a review,” Text. Res. J., vol. 82, no. 14, pp. 1457–1468, 2012.
7. S.-A. Kweon, E.-K. Lee, and J.-M. Choi, “A comparative study on the subjective fabric hand according to
gender for winter sleepwear fabrics,” Fibers Polym., vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 6–11, 2004.
8. C. J. Kim and K. Piromthamsiri, “Sensory and Physical Hand Properties of Inherently Flame-Retardant
Sleepwear Fabrics 1,” Text. Res. J., vol. 54, no. 1, pp. 61–68, Jan. 1984.
9. G. V. Civille, Development of Terminology to Describe the Handfeel Properties of Paper and Fabrics. 1990.
10. H. BINNS, “The Discrimination of Wool Fabrics by the Sense of Touch,” Br. J. Psychol. Gen. Sect., vol. 16,
no. 3, pp. 237–247, Jan. 1926.
11. C. W. Kan, M. H. M. Leung, and R. Mongkholrattanasit, “Determination of Surface Properties of Paper
Towels with KES-F System,” Appl. Mech. Mater., vol. 848, no. i, pp. 174–177, 2016.
12. S. S. Najar, X. Wang, and M. Naebe, “The effect of plasma treatment and tightness factor on the low-stress
mechanical properties of single jersey knitted wool fabrics,” Text. Res. J., p. 004051751668196, 2016.
13. X. Xiao, T. Hua, J. Wang, L. Li, and W. Au, “Transfer and mechanical behavior of three-dimensional
honeycomb fabric,” Text. Res. J., vol. 85, no. 12, pp. 1281–1292, 2015.
14. D. Sun and G. K. Stylios, “Methodology Results and Discussion Fabric Thickness and Weight,” vol. 7, no.
3, pp. 245–249, 2006.
15. J.-J. Kim, S. Yoo, and E. Kim, “Sensorial Property Evaluation of Scoured Silk Fabrics Using Quad
Analysis,” Text. Res. J., vol. 75, no. 5, pp. 418–424, 2005.
16. L. Bacci et al., “Sensory evaluation and instrumental measurements to determine tactile properties of wool
fabrics,” Text. Res. J., vol. 82, no. 14, pp. 1430–1441, Mar. 2012.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 57
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470823
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric
Gunawan1*, Dimas Kusumaatmadja1, Hana Maisyah2, Andika Miftah2
1 Lecturer, Textile Engineering, Politeknik STTT Bandung
2 Student, Textile Engineering and Fashion Design, Politeknik STTT Bandung
* Correspondence: [email protected]
Abstract : The Baduy tribes live in the ancestral land located in Kanekes Village, Leuwi Damar
District, Lebak Regency. Leuwi Damar Subdistrict is one of the 19 Sub districts in Lebak Regency and
located in a hilly area in Kanekes Village. Kanekes village is one of village from others 295 Villages
and 5 Village offices in Lebak Regency. Baduy are known as the most powerful inland tribes who
hold the principle of cultures in their lives. In this research, textile engineering approach is use to
analyze Baduy traditional woven fabric. The research is conducted to identify technique, design,
structure, material, process, equipment, weaving loom and finishing process. The main purposes is to
make a blue print of Baduy traditional woven and to conserve their traditional clothes and fabric.
Investigation conducted in inner and outer Baduy. Cotton, polyester and pelah use as material for
baduy traditional woven. Weavers use yarn from inside and outside baduy. There are six weaving
structure design that is Jamang, Aros, Adu Mancung, Lamak Suwat, Poleng, and Romal. The equipment of
weaving loom is made from bambo. Baduy woven fabrics are analyzed to get technical specification
such as weaving structure, fabric weight, warp density, weft density, yarns count. A dyed yarn is
mainly used for the fabric. Some weavers dye yarn and fabric using natural and synthetic dyed.
Keywords: Baduy traditional woven, blue print, weaving loom, traditional woven design
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Indonesia is a nation which is rich with cultural outcomes. One of the cultural heritage is variety
of traditional fabrics that live and develop in almost every region in Indonesia. This wealth makes
Indonesia as nation and country that has a character in a cultured life.
Traditional fabrics such as woven fabrics with their respective characteristics in various regions
can be proposed as intellectual property of Indonesian cultural heritage and a characteristic of an
area. Therefore, it is necessary to study traditional woven fabrics in various places that not only
emphasize the social, cultural and artistic aspects, but also identify more thoroughly and deeply in
terms of design, products, raw materials and techniques. This needs to be done to get the blue print of
the traditional woven fabrics. This traditional woven fabric blueprint is very important to study so
that it will later become the primary source of information on how the traditional woven fabric can be
made.
58
Gunawan : Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric
In this study, Baduy Woven Traditional Fabric will be used as a model in reviewing traditional
woven fabrics that can be seen from the technical specification of woven fabric, products, raw
materials and techniques. This study will produce a blueprint for traditional Baduy woven fabrics
and can be done to map the other traditional fabrics in other regions.
Baduy tribe is a sundanese tribe who live in the village of Kanekes, Leuwidamar-Lebak, Banten
Province. One of Baduy culture is traditional woven fabric which is produced from the culture with
motives, materials and manufacturing techniques.
Baduy tribe is generally divided into three groups, namely tangtu, panamping and dangka. The
Tangtu group is known as the Inner Baduy that most rigid the culture. The Tangtu lives in three
villages: Cibeo, Cikartawana and Cikeusik. The characteristics of Baduy tribe in their clothing are
natural white and dark blue and wear white headbands. Panamping groups are those who are known
as outer Baduy, who live in various villages that spread around the inner Baduy, such as Cikadu,
Kaduketuk, Kadukolot, and so on. The Baduy community is characterized by wearing black clothes
and headbands. Dangka Baduy groups live outside the Kanekes area and at present there are two
villages, namely Padawaras and Sirahdayeuh. Kampung Dangka has a function as a buffer zone for
external influences (permana, 2001).
The traditional Baduy woven fabrics have been studied by several observers and researchers.
The study of Baduy traditional woven fabrics is generally carried out as one of the sub-sections for
capturing the life of the Baduy tribe. Nanang (1) conducted a study of Sunda wiwitan visual culture
by examining Baduy woven fabric. In this study, we trace the beginning of the tradition of making
Baduy woven, function and type of Baduy woven fabric, the relationship between Baduy woven
fabric and the belief and culture of Baduy people and a brief description of Baduy weaving
techniques.
Nugraha (2) has carried out research on Baduy weaving using a disciplinary approach to visual
culture. The focus of the study was carried out through extracting visual elements associated with the
Sundanese cultural system. This brings an understanding of the meaning of visual elements which
are symbols of Baduy tribe culture.
Maftukha (3) conducted a study of the aesthetic value of woven arts produced by Baduy tribes
women outside the 2010-2013 period. From the point of view ethnographic and art criticism method,
it can be seen that outside culture does not affect the meaning of weaving. The outside cultures has a
influences in technical treatment, partnership systems, material, the function of woven fabric, and
development.
R. Gurniwan (4) conducted a study on the strategies for the life of the Baduy tribes in Lebak-
Banten District with a study on the socio-cultural aspects. From this research, it was found that one of
the activities of the Baduy community outside of agriculture is by trading several handicrafts
including Baduy weaving.
This Research related to pressure on aspects of the study of textile design and technology needs
to be done to get a comprehensive and in-depth picture so that in the end there will be a blue print of
Baduy woven fabric that currently exists and is developing.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 59
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470974
Gunawan : Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric
2. Experimental
2.1. Materials
This research is directly done with collecting data by observing in the Baduy area of Kanekes
village. The data obtained is then processed and analyzed in the laboratory at the STTT.
2.2. Method
The study was conducted in three steps. The first step is to study the literature relating to Baduy
traditional weaving from various sources. The second step is a direct survey where the Baduy tribe
lives, namely in the Village of Kanekes. In this second step, direct observation, interviews and
documentation of all technical aspects, raw materials, designs and processes for making woven
fabrics will be conducted. In this second period, Baduy traditional woven fabrics will also be
collected. In the third step, all Baduy woven fabrics will be analyzed in depth at the Polytechnic STTT
laboratory to obtain a technical data from structures, yarn numbers, warp density and weft density,
material, yarn number and fabric weight.
Table 1. Research Plan
No Description Implementation
1. Research Problems
1. Identify the material 1. Study the material, design,
used to make Baduy manufacturing process and
woven fabric meaning of Baduy woven fabric.
2. Identify the design and 2. Making a weaving plan that can
hand loom process be understood if it will be remade
or developed on hand loom or the
3. Analysis of the woven possibilities on modern machines
fabric produced
4. Making a weaving plan
2. Data collection 1. Direct observation 1. Characterization of Baduy woven
technique 2. Literature study fabrics in laboratories to obtain
3. Interview woven fabric specifications,
4. Characterization of weaving structures, warp density,
weft density, yarn numbers, fabric
woven fabrics weight, yarn number..
2. Observations and interviews to
obtain information from primary
sources.
3. Data Processing 1. Analysis of the 1. Analysis and identification of
Techniques
manufacturing process materials, designs and processes
2. Characterization analysis for making woven fabrics
of woven fabrics 2. Analysis of technical specifications
of Baduy woven fabric
4. Generalization and Woven fabric structure,
Recommendations manufacturing process, and
traditional Baduy woven
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 60
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470974
Gunawan : Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric Implementation
No Description
fabric material.
3. Results
3.1. Raw Materials
The results of testing carried out by combustion tests and cross-sectional tests of fibers on the
fabric obtained showed that the yarn as raw material in the manufacture of Baduy woven fabrics
came from two types of fibers, namely cotton and polyester fibers.
At the time of the cellulose yarn combustion tests such as cotton, rayon, etc. have the following
characteristics: not smoky, smelling of burning paper and the final result of combustion in the form of
fine ash. To sharpen, a cross-section test of the fiber is carried out which shows a cross section of the
fiber shaped like a kidney. Based on this, it can be ascertained that the yarn is cotton yarn.
When testing the combustion of synthetic fiber, yarns such as polyester, polyamide, etc have the
following characteristics: black smoky, smells of burning plastic, and the final result of burning
clumps hard black. A cross-section test of the fiber was carried out which showed a cross-section of a
round fiber. Based on this, it is certain that the yarn is polyester yarn.
However, there is one special fabric that is very difficult to find in Baduy, namely “kain Pelah”.
This fabric is only found in Baduy in precisely the Cibeo village. The name of the Pelang cloth is
because the raw material comes from the stem of a split plant in the Baduy forest. The stem of the
plant is cut after being taken and then steamed in water, then dried, loosened by pressing it between
the fingers of the foot and finally the stem tied up to the other stem so that it becomes a rather rough
yarn.
The number of warp yarns and feed used to make Baduy woven fabrics are quite varied. Warp
yarns have numbers starting from Ne1 4,18 - 28,28 while weft yarns start from Ne1 3,6 - 14,25. This
data shows the diameter or smoothness of the warp yarn used is higher than the weft yarn.
In general, warp and weft yarns used to make Baduy woven fabrics come from two sources,
namely from inner and outer Baduy. Yarns that can be produced from inner Baduyare cotton yarn
and split stem. Cotton yarn produced from cotton plants in Baduy is very small. While the Pelah
sticks are much less and are very rarely used in making Baduy woven fabrics.
Along with its development, currently many Baduy weavers buy yarns from outside, for
example from the Majalaya area or around the outer regions of Baduy. In general, yarns purchased
from outside are cotton yarn and polyester yarn that has been colored or has undergone with a
dyeing process. There are also a small number of Baduy weavers who buy greige yarn to be dyed
themselves either with dyes from natural or synthetic.
No Fabric Table 2. Data of Yarn Testing Results Conclusion
Warp Threats (Ne1) Weft Threats (Ne1)
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Gunawan : Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric
1. Jamang Fabric 17,39 9,35 Cotton fiber
5,47 Cotton fiber`
2. Adumancung fabric 11,16 7,67 Cotton fiber
6,87 Cotton fiber
3. Aros Fabric type 1 28,28 4,97 Cotton fiber
4. Poleng Fabric 13,28 Cotton fiber
5. Lamak Suat Fabric 15,15
6. Romal
3.2. Design and Structure of Woven Fabric inside and outer Baduy
The type of fabric from inner and outer Baduy are adjusted to the customary culture provisions.
Inner Baduy produces a woven that more simpler in color and structures. In contrary, outer Baduy
weavers produces woven fabrics that more developed in color and structures. Fabrics that have been
made are stored outside the house for sale as seen in some of the following Baduy weaver houses.
The technical specifications of Baduy woven fabrics are analyzed so that the data can be obtained
from woven structures, fabric weight, warp/weft density, warp and weft, and number of warp and
feed yarns.
Figure 1. Baduy woven fabrics
In general, the design of Baduy woven fabric can be grouped as follows:
1. Jamang Fabric
The design of the Jamang cloth is divided into two, namely Jamang bodas and hideung. Jamang
bodas cloth is a white cloth while the Jamang hideung cloth is a black cloth. The design of this woven
fabric is very simple; it is made with plain woven.
Table 3. Technical Specification of Jamang Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 181 gram/m2
2 Warp density 49,33 pcs /inch
3 Weft density 31,67 pcs /inch
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No Technical specifications 17,23 %
4 Warping Shrinkage 9,83 %
5 Weft shrinkage 17,39
6 Warping yarns number (Ne1)
7 Weft yarns number (ne1) 9,35
Figure 2. Jamang Fabric and weaving plan
2. Adu Mancung
The design of the fountains is fabric with triangular motifs facing each other and turning
towards each other, so that the ends of the triangle meet each other. Woven on the design of the fabric
is formed by weaving the weft yarn over several strands above the warp yarn and then the jump
number decreases gradually so that the triangle effect is obtained. The weft yarn used is one strand of
weft for the base of plain structures fabric and two types of weft yarn to form a fist design consisting
of black and red.
Table 4. Technical specification of Adu Mancung Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 198,5 gram/m2
2 Warp density 54 helai/inch
3 Weft density 31 helai/inch
4 Warping Shrinkage 12,97 %
5 Weft shrinkage 4,94 %
6 Warping yarns number (ne1)
7 Weft yarns number (ne1) 15,96
9,12
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Figure 3. Adu Mancung Fabric and weaving plan
3. Poleng Fabric
Basically poleng design consists of changing the arrangement of warp yarns and feed alternately
forming a straight line and box effect using plain structure.
Table 5. Technical specification of Poleng Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 159 gram/m2
2 Warp density 23,67 helai/inch
3 Weft density 33,67 helai/inch
4 Warping Shrinkage
5 Weft shrinkage 6,37 %
6 Warping yarns number (ne1) 4,49 %
7 Weft yarns number (ne1) 13,28
6,87
Figure 4. Adu mancung Fabric and weaving plan
4. Aros
Basically, Aros design consists of changing the arrangement of types and colors of warp yarns
and feed alternately forming line and box effects. At each base of the feed yarn box weaves several
strands above the warp yarn. The webbing used is plain webbing as a base and special webbing to
form the Aros design.
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Table 6. Technical specification of Aros Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 202 gram/m2
2 Warp density 103,33 helai/inch
3 Weft density 31,33 helai/inch
4 Warping Shrinkage
5 Weft shrinkage 16,46 %
6 Warping yarns number (ne1) 2,5 %
7 Weft yarns number (ne1) 28,28
7,67
Figure 5. Aros Fabric and weaving plan
5. Lamak Suat
The design of the Lamak Suat fabric consists of alternating the arrangement of warp yarns
alternately forming a line effect. The weft yarn used is only one type. The weaving structure used a
plain
Table 7. Technical specification of Lamak Suat Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 268 gram/m2
2 Warp density 93,67 helai/inch
3 Weft density 30,33 helai/inch
4 Warping Shrinkage
5 Weft shrinkage 15,25 %
6 Warping yarns number (Ne1) 5,2 %
7 Weft yarns number (Ne1) 14,52
5,42
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Figure 6. Lamak Suat Fabric and weaving plan
6. Romal
The design of the Romal fabric is basically plain structure which is given an impression treatment
on the fabric. Currently Roman fabric is not produced in Baduy, but is made outside the Baduy.
Table 8.Technical specification of Romal Fabric
No Technical specifications Value
1 GSM 155 gram/m2
2 Warp density 40 helai/inch
3 Weft density 25,67 helai/inch
4 Warping Shrinkage 10,71 %
5 Weft shrinkage 4,49 %
6 Warping yarns number (ne1)
7 Weft yarns number (ne1) 16,54
8,24
Figure 7. Romal Fabric and weaving plan 66
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Gunawan : Technical Aspect of Baduy Woven Fabric
3.3. Dyeing
In general, Baduy weavers use a dyed yarn. Others weaver dye yarn and fabrics using natural
and synthesis dyes. They use natural dyes from plants that exist and grow in the Baduy region.
Synthetic dyes are purchased from outer Baduy, one of which is Majalaya. The natural coloring
technique is done by squeezing or extracting seeds, leaves or stems of plants, then adding water so
that colors appear, dip directly and dry. The dyeing process use synthetic dyes by heating water,
entering the dye, entering the yarn, rinsing and drying the dye.
Figure 8. Dyeing process
4. Conclusion
Based on the data obtained, some conclusions can be taken as follows:
1) Raw Materials
The raw materials used are cotton, polyester and cuttings. In general, cotton yarn is the most
widely used compare with polyester yarn. The root stem is a plant that grows in the Baduy
forest area which is very rarely used as raw material. Raw materials come from inner and
outer Baduy. In general, Baduy people buy yarn from outside rather than producing by their
own. Because of limited availability in Baduy area, weavers use yarn from outer Baduy
comparing.
2) Design
Baduy traditional woven fabrics are grouped into 6 structures; Jamang bodas and hideung, adu
mancung, poleng, lamak suwat, Aros and Romal.
3) Weaving Equipment
Weaving equipment is made by the Baduy people who are all made of wood or bamboo in
Baduy. Baduy weaving equipment in principle has in common with other weaving
equipment that develops by following the principal movement principle shedding, filling
insertion and weft yarns launching.
4) Development of Baduy Weaving Fabrics
Baduy traditional woven cloth has the potential to be developed in a variety of fashion
household interior needed. Lamak Suat woven fabric that is applied to shoes has a unique
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design. Similarly, when Lamak Suat or Aros woven cloth when combined with other fabrics
have their own advantages and characteristics.
5) Dyeing
In general, Baduy weavers use dyed yarn. But weavers also found immersion in yarns and
fabrics using natural dyes and synthesis
5. Acknowledgments
The author expresses his highest gratitude and appreciation to the Ministry of Industry for
funding and Politeknik STTT for facilitation in the research.
References
1. Nanang Ganda Prawira, Getting to Know Sundanese Fine Culture Wiwitan Baduy Part 1 Woven Fabric
Baduy, UPI, Bandung
2. Wahyu Nugraha, Study of Baduy Woven Fabric, http://www.fsrd.itb.ac.id/wp-content/uploads/kajian-rupa-
kain-tenun-Baduy.pdf.
3. Nina Maftukha, Study of Weaving Art Aesthetic Values produced by Women from the Outer Baduy Tribe,
http://www.s2sr.fsrd.itb.ac.id/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/nina-maftuha.pdf .
4. Gurniwan, the Life Strategy of the Baduy Community in Lebak-Banten Regency A Socio-Cultural Study,
Journal of Historic Synthetic Metals 146 (2004) 167–174.December 2007.
5. Permana, Geography Study Program, Baduy Society, UNY FISE, 2011
6. Feri Prihantoro, Baduy's sustainable life, Aisa Good ESD Practice Project, 2006.
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Potential of Brown Cotton Fiber Development for
Sustainable Textile Materials
Taufiq Hidayat RS1*, Nurindah1, Dwi Adi Sunarto1
1 Indonesian Sweetener and Fiber Crops Research Institute
Indonesian Agency for Agricultural Research and Development
Jl. Raya Karangploso KM.4, PO Box 199, Malang
* Correspondence: [email protected]
Abstract : The use of brown cotton fiber to meet fiber raw materials needs to be supported, because
chemicals used for colouring in textile industry contributes to high pollution in the environment. The
program for assembling brown cotton fiber varieties in Indonesia has begun in 2006. In 2018 three new
superior varieties of brown cotton fiber were released, namely Bronesia 1, Bronesia 2 and Bronesia 3. This
paper discusses the potential of brown cotton fiber as a textile raw material in Indonesia. The brown
cotton fiber of Bronesia variety has the potential to produce 1011 kg/ha cotton fiber. Cotton fiber of
Bronesia has fiber lengths ranging from 23-25 mm and has fiber strength between 21-23 g/tex. The
uniformity fiber of brown cotton Bronesia is included in the high category, ranging from 83 - 84%. The
brown cotton fiber of Bronesia has three color gradations, namely medium brown, light brown and dark
brown. The brown cotton fiber of Bronesia has resistance to pest infestations, and can grow well on dry
land. The brown cotton fiber of Bronesia has the potential to be used in the textile industry, especially the
traditional weaving industry, therefore, it can support the sustainable textile industry. The purpose of
this review is to discuss the opportunities for the use of brown cotton fibers from Bronesia varieties in
supporting the Indonesian textile industry.
Keywords: Bronesia; Brown cotton; Textiles; Weaving
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
One of the natural fibers producing plant which is as the main raw material in the textile industry
and textile products is cotton plants (Gossypium hirsutum L). The textile and textile products (TTP)
industry is one of the strategic sectors which development is prioritized, because it contributes
significantly to the national economy [1]. The national textile industry shows that trade was surplus with
69
Taufiq Hidayat : Potential Of Brown Cotton Fiber Development For Sustainable Textile Materials
a value of not less than US $ 5 million, absorbing 1.34 million people and contributing to meet domestic
needs of 46%. The value of textile industry investment in 2016 increased to IDR 7.54 trillion with
significant foreign exchange earnings from the export value of US $ 11.87 million and capable of
absorbing as much as 17% of the total workforce in the manufacturing industry [2].
The integrated textile industry in Indonesia involves the upstream to downstream sectors in
producing final products, so that it requires and uses natural fibers. To be the largest TTP in Southeast
Asia, it requires and uses a large amount of fiber raw material [3]. The need for cotton raw materials
continues to increase along with the development of the population which drives the development of
domestic TTP. The spinning industry, especially for cotton fiber, increased from 6.1 million spindles in
1997 to 7.8 million spindles in 2014, or in the last within 15 years there has been a growth of around 2%
per year [4]. However, domestic supply of cotton fiber is very low. The of cotton imports volume every
year tends to increase and varies from 450 to 760 thousand tons, equivalent to 99.5% of the national fiber
needs, which are valued at approximately US $ 650 million [5].
Efforts to fulfill the demand for cotton fiber raw materials are carried out by increasing production
of cotton fiber. In addition to white cotton, colored cotton fibers are also potentially utilized to meet the
needs of the textile industry. There are four color groups of cotton fibers, namely white, brown, green and
blue fibers [6]. The most widely cultivated is the brown and green fibers. In Indonesia, the development
of colored-cotton began in 2006 in the program of assembling cotton varieties, especially brown-cotton
fibers. Among colored-cotton fibers, brown fibers are more commonly cultivated and the brown colors
are more stable than green fibers [7]. Brown, gray and reddish-brown colors are caused by tannin content
and phenolic compounds in fiber lumen vacuoles [8].
The research result [9] reported that currently the demand for colored cotton for the textile
industry would increase to reduce environmental pollution due to uncontrolled chemical coloring
processes and become a very high contributor of pollutants throughout the fabric production process.
Excessive use of water when coloring will also cause hazardous waste that has impacts not only on
humans, but also threaten the surface water source [10]. [11] states that a minimum of 30 liters of water is
needed in the production of 1 kg of fabric and 1-15% of the dye used in the textile industry is lost in
textile industry waste water. Compared with white cotton fibers that are needed to treat with chemical
dyes to make artificially colored cotton, the natural colored cotton fibers have a fairly high color
resistance when washing repeatedly and not easily fade if exposed to ultra violet [12]. The development
of colored cotton could be associated with the development of organic cotton.
In order to obtain new varieties of colored cotton, Indonesian Sweeteners and Fibers Crops the
Research Institute (ISFCRI) conducted plant breeding activities that started with crosses involving three
female parents (Kanesia 7, Kanesia 8, and Kanesia 9) with three male parents, namely KI 42 (73814,
originally from Greece), KI 124 (Multiple Dominant), and KI 502 (RLBL, originally from Australia). The
purpose of this breeding was to produce cotton that is tolerant/moderately tolerant to drought and
possesses brown fiber. From the results of the crossing, progeny was obtained which were then selected
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Taufiq Hidayat : Potential Of Brown Cotton Fiber Development For Sustainable Textile Materials
individually and continued by lines selection. Selected lines were then tested for their production
potential which was conducted in 2013. Subsequently, multilocation tests were carried out in 2014-2016 in
3 locations, namely: Asembagus, Pasirian and Sumberejo to test 6 selected lines and Kanesia 10 varieties
used as a comparison. In 2018, Balittas released three new varieties of brown fiber cotton, namely
Bronesia 1, Bronesia 2, and Bronesia 3.
The purpose of writing this review is to provide an overview and discussion about the assembly of
brown-colored cotton and its opportunities in supporting the textile industry in Indonesia. The discussion
that will be presented includes the process of the breeding of brown colored cotton, the production
potency and fiber quality of the superior varieties produced, and their potential for development in
supporting textile industry.
2. Breeding of Brown-Colored Cotton
Balittas has assembled brown-colored cotton varieties with a cross of six parents in 2006, conducted
at Karangploso Research Station in Malang. The female parents consisted of three Kanesia varieties,
namely Kanesia 7, Kanesia 8, and Kanesia 9; and male parents were three selected introduced accessions
from Greece, United States and Australia, namely KI 42 (accession 73814), KI 124 (Multiple Dominant
accession), and KI 502 (access to RLBL-Red Leaf Brown Lint).
Selection activities of plant breeding program were carried out at Karangploso Research Station,
Malang starting from the population of F1 - F6 (conducted during 2007-2012), planted in conditions
without pest control on rainfed land with a standard cotton cultivation package. Selection was carried out
with selection criteria that included low levels of plant damage caused by cotton planthopper and cotton
bollworm, number of fruit > 15 bolls/plant with a selection pressure of 15%. Test of preliminary potential
production of F7 was carried out in 2013. These tests resulted 19 lines which were crossed in 1999 and
2003. The tests were carried out on experimental plots of these lines and compared with Kanesia 10.
From this test we obtained 6 expected lines.
Multilocation tests were carried out in 2014-2016 in 3 locations of Balittas research stations, i.d.,
Asembagus, Pasirian and Sumberejo. The agroecological specifications of each location are presented in
Table 2. During plant growth, the rainfall in Asembagus was 254-538 mm, in Pasirian varied at 260–1,263
mm and in Sumberejo varied at 276-428 mm. Six selected lines were used in this tests that carried out in
2013 and Kanesia 10 was involved as a comparison (Table 1).
Table 1. List of tested lines and comparison varieties
No Lines Crossing Combination Fiber Color
1 06063/5 Kanesia 8 X KI. 42 Dark brown
2 06062/3 Kanesia 7 X KI. 502 Light brown
3 06066/2 Kanesia 8 X KI. 502 Light brown
4 06066 Kanesia 8 X KI. 502 Light brown
5 06067/3 Kanesia 9 X KI. 42 Dark brown
6 06063/3 Kanesia 8 X KI. 42 Dark brown
7 Kanesia 10 Comparison White
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From those multilocation tests, 3 superior lines were proposed to be released as new superior
varieties which are tolerant/moderately tolerant to drought and brown-colored fibers of lines 06062/3,
06066/2 and 06063/3. These lines are then proposed to be released as new superior varieties of brown-
colored cotton, namely Bronesia 1 Bronesia 2, and Bronesia 3, respectively.
3. Potential Production of Brown-Colored Cotton
The multilocation test results of brown-colored cotton showed the average of plant height and
yield components, consisting of the number of fruits/plants and the weight of 100 pieces (g). Table 2
shows that some of the tested lines showed variations of plant heights, and the average height of Bronesia
1, Bronesia 2, and Bronesia 3 varied between 114 - 121 cm. That no significant difference for plant height
between brown-colored cotton with white fiber cotton, with a range of 90-120 cm [13]. The average
number of boll/plant varies between 11-13 bolls/plants. The average weight of 100 bolls varies between
415 - 502 g. The number of formed cotton bolls per plant is directly proportional to the weight of seed-
cotton produced. The more the number of bolls, the higher the weight of cotton produced. That the
number of bolls per plant positively correlates both phenotypically and genotypically to yield per plant
[14].
Table 2. The average plant height, number of bolls, and weight of 100 bolls of Bronesia varieties
Parameters Bronesia 1 Cotton Variety Bronesia 3
115 Bronesia 2 121
Plant height (cm) 11 114 13
Number of bolls/plant 502 11 415
Weight of 100 bolls (g) 456
The cotton productivity of Bronesia varieties in three locations showed that the productivity of
Bronesia cotton was generally higher in Asembagus (Table 3). The three varieties showed different
performances in all three locations. In Asembagus, Broneisa 3 shows the highest fiber productivity
compared to the other two varieties. In Pasirian, however, Bronesia 1 showed the highest production
potential, while in Sumberrejo Bronesia 2 showed the highest performance for production potential. This
difference relates to the physiological process of cotton plants related to their ability to produce fiber,
which is influenced by agro-climatic conditions at the study site.
Table 3. Fiber productivity of brown-colored cotton varieties
Location Bronesia 1 Fiber Productivity (kg/ha) Bronesia 3
Asembagus 910 Bronesia 2 1011
854
Pasirian 852 708 700
Sumberejo 728 759 669
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4. Fiber Quality and Color of Brown Colored Cotton
Fiber quality is determined by color, dirt, and post-harvest processing. A good fiber has bright
colors and good luster, do not contain dirt and are free from nep. The fiber content and quality of cotton
fiber are composed of fiber length, smoothness, strength, stretch and uniformity which are presented in
Table 4. The strength of cotton fibers accepted by textile industry ranges from 28 to 32 g/tex for G.
hirsutum and 42 to 46 g/tex for G. Barbadense; fiber length ranges from 27.4-31.5 mm for G. hirsutum and
34.5-36.3 mm for G. Barbadense; for fiber uniformity ranges from 80.0 - 82.5% for G. hirsutum, and 85.0 -
86.5% for G. Barbadense; fiber fineness is an indirect measurement of fiber smoothness and fiber maturity;
which is needed from 3.9 - 4.9 mic for G. hirsutum and 3.7 - 4.2 for G. Barbadense [15]. The fiber length
together with fiber strength will determine yarn strength and flatness, as well as the efficiency of the
spinning process [16].
Table 4. Qualty of brown-colorred fiber of Bronesia
Fiber Quality Fiber content
(%)
Variety length fineness strength elongation uniformity
(mm) (mic) (%) 33.6
Bronesia 1 23.96 5.70 (g/tex) (%) 84.7 34.5
Bronesia 2 25.74 4.00 84.9 33.1
Bronesia 3 23.20 4.10 22.4 6.9 83.6 40.9
Kanesia 10 28.28 4.60 88.7
23.7 5.9
21.2 8.8
27.0 8.1
The fiber length of Bronesia varieties showed the average of fiber length of 23.96 mm, 25.74 mm
and 23.20 mm, respectively. The three varieties have a shorter fiber length than Kanesia 10 (28.23 mm).
Fiber length is the average length of long fibers, fibers which are 12 mm long are classified as short fibers.
Measurement of fiber length is expressed in 1/32 inches; the anatomical range is 0.79 - 1.36 inches. Longer
cotton fiber tends to be finer, softer, and more twisty.
Data on fiber fineness measurements showed that Bronesia varieties reached 5.70, 4.00 and 4.10
mic, respectively. However, Bronesia 1 has a smoothness level that does not include the range of
smoothness desired by the textile industry which ranges from 3.5-4.9 mic. Low fiber smoothness is
caused by a lack of carbohydrates during fruit formation, lack of K elements, excess N, and excessive
irrigation.
The strength of fiber is the energy needed to break a bundle of fiber in the size of one unit with a
stelometer device which is expressed in the ratio between the strength at break and when stretching. The
fiber strength of Bronesia varieties is 22.4 (low), 23.7 (low) and 21.2 (low) respectively. Higher fiber
strength determines the strength of the yarn and is directly affected by changes in air humidity when
testing fiber.
The elongation and uniformity of Bronesia varieties ranged from 6.9% and 84.7%, 5.9% and 84.9%,
and 8.8% and 83.6%, respectively. The elongation percentage of the Bronesia 3 was better than that of
other varieties and Kanesia 10. The percentage of uniformity of the three varieties is lower than Kanesia
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10. The measurement of fiber uniformity was carried out using a fibrograph which illustrates the
uniformity of fiber length. If the percentage of UR <77 means that the uniformity of fiber is very low or
the percentage of short fibers is high, the more short fibers will cause a break in the yarn in the spinning
process so that the resulting yarn is of low quality. The uniformity index is expressed as a percentage
which is very high (> 85%), high (83 - 85%), medium (80 - 82%), low (77 - 79%), and very low ( <77%) [17].
Meanwhile, for indicators of fiber content, Bronesian varieties produced 33.6%, 34.5% and 33.1% fiber
content respectively.
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 1. The color of colored cotton of Bronesia (a) Bronesia 1, (b) Bronesia 2, (c) Bronesia 3
The color observation of brown-colored cotton fiber was carried out on Bronesian varieties using
two comparative tools of cotton fiber colors, namely the Munsell Color Charts for Plant Tissues and the
Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Color Charts (Figure 1). The results of the observations were that
Bronesia 1 had a medium brown color with Munsell color charts value: group 7.5 YR and value 7/6 while
the RHS value was included in Greyed Orange Group 165C. Broensia 2 variety have light brown color
with Munsell color charts value: group 6.0 YR and value 7/6 while RHS values are included in Greyed
Orange Group 165D. Bronesia 3 variety have dark brown color with Munsell color charts value: group 5.0
YR and value 6/10 while RHS values are included in Greyed Orange Group 164A.
5. Potential Development of Brown Cotton Fiber
The development of cotton commodities to support the textile industry on an ongoing basis can
utilize brown fibers. Release of three new superior varieties of brown cotton, with potential production
reaching 1011 kg/ha of fiber, the supply of raw materials for the textile industry can be achieved. In
addition to the textile industry, brown cotton fibers can also be used as traditional weaving industry raw
materials. The existence of weaving in Indonesia gives its own color to the wealth of the nation's culture
(local content). Woven fabrics are not only assets, but also have potential as a source of foreign exchange.
This potential arises, considering that woven fabric is now not just a symbol of tradition. Woven fabrics
have become modern products, no longer being conventional materials [18].
Dissemination of technology results of research that has been carried out by Balittas in Kab. Sumba
Barat Daya, East Nusa Tenggara has carried out a spinning demo of yarn made from brown cotton fiber.
The craftsmen greatly appreciate the presence of brown cotton which is very much needed in the process
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of making woven fabrics. In addition to adding woven fabric motifs, the use of brown cotton fibers can
also reduce the cost of weaving production, especially in terms of coloring cloth. The color of the fabric
from brown fiber is not easy to fade and is not slippery like a woven fabric that uses synthetic threads.
The woven fabric from Sade Hamlet is generally very attractive, both in color and product because
the materials used to produce woven fabrics come from nature, there is no mixture of chemicals such as
the yarn they use comes from cotton, which then they spin themselves using traditional tools. While in
terms of color, the famous Dusun Sade woven fabric will not fade even though it is often washed. Thus,
the opportunity to use brown fiber is large enough to be used in making traditional woven fabrics [19].
The supply of cotton raw materials can be developed with a system of partnerships between cotton
farmers and fabric managers or craftsmen. The development can be started by preparing superior seeds
where the manager is obliged to provide quality seeds to cotton farmers. Thus, the manager also plays a
role as a breeder of seeds. Some cotton development areas such as in South Sulawesi and East Nusa
Tenggara have established a cotton partnership system, so that the development of cotton seed systems
can realize an independent cotton seed community system to meet traditional textile and weaving
industry raw materials can be achieved.
6. Conclusion
Bronesia 1, Bronesia 2 and Bronesia 3 are released as new varieties of Indonesian colored cotton.
The potential production of the new varieties was 1011 kg/ha of cotton fiber. The quality of brown cotton
fiber varies, even though its quality is still below the average quality of Kanesia fiber 10. The color of
Bronesia varieties of brown cotton fiber has three color gradations, namely light brown, light brown and
dark brown. The demand for colored cotton for the textile industry would increase to reduce
environmental pollution due to uncontrolled chemical coloring processes and become a very high
contributor of pollutants throughout the fabric production process.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 75
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470917
Taufiq Hidayat : Potential Of Brown Cotton Fiber Development For Sustainable Textile Materials
References
1. Kementerian Perindustrian, “Industri Tekstil Dan Produk Tekstil Di Revitalisasi,” Siaran Pers, 2010. [Online].
Available: http://www.kemenperin.go.id/artikel/60/Industri-Tekstil-Dan-Produk-Tekstil-Di-Revitalisasi.
[Accessed: 01-Apr-2018].
2. A. Hayun, “Tekstil Indonesia di Perdagangan Internasional,” Universitas Pamulang, Banten, 2017.
3. Kementerian Perdagangan, “Tekstil Dan Produk Kreatif Indonesia,” Warta Ekspor, Jakarta, p. 20, Apr-2019.
4. Direktorat Jenderal Perkebunan, “Pedoman Teknis Pelaksanaan Kegiatan Kapas Tahun 2013,” Jakarta, 2014.
5. A. Sagala, “Kebijakan sektor industri TPT dalam mendukung pengembangan kapas dan rami pasca
pencabutan subsidi ekspor kapas negara maju. Prosiding Lokakarya Nasional Kapas dan Rami,” in Prosiding
Lokakarya Nasional Kapas dan Rami, 2007, pp. 20–23.
6. M. R. Chaudhry, A. Guitchounts, Common Fund for Commodities (United Nations), and International
Cotton Advisory Committee., Cotton facts, 1 st. Washington D.C., USA: International Cotton Advisory
Committee, 2003.
7. P. Singh, V. V Singh, and V. N. Waghmare, “Naturally coloured cotton Central Institute for Cotton Research
Nagpur,” in CICR Technical Bull No.4, 2000, pp. 1–10.
8. K. . Kranthi, “How Colourful is the Future of Naturally Coloured Cotton?,” 2014, p. 4.
9. V. . Waghmare and K. . Koranne, “Coloured Cotton: Present Status, Problems and Future Potentials,” Indian J
Genet., vol. 58, no. 1, pp. 1–15, 1998.
10. M. M. Aslam, M. A. Baiq, I. Hassan, M. Malik, I. A. Qazi, and H. Saeed, “Textile Wastewater Characterization
and Reduction of its COD & BOD by Oxidation,” Electron. J. Environ. Agric. Food Chem., vol. 3, no. 6, pp. 804–
811, 2004.
11. J.-M. Herrmann, M. Vautier, and C. Guillard, “Photocatalytic Degradation of Dyes in Water: Case Study of
Indigo and of Indigo Carmine,” J. Catal., vol. 201, no. 1, pp. 46–59, 2001.
12. D. K. Dickerson, E. F. Lane, and D. F. Rodriguez, Naturally Colored Cotton : Resistance to Changes in Color and
Durability When Refurbished With Selected Laundry Aids, 1st ed. California: California Agricultural Technology
Institute, 1999.
13. L. Efe, A. Sefer Mustafayev, and F. Killi, “Agronomic, fiber and seed quality traits of naturally coloured
cottons in east mediterranean region of Turkey,” Pakistan J. Bot., vol. 42, no. 6, pp. 3865–3873, 2010.
14. P. . Fryxel, “Taxonomy and germplas resources,” Agris., vol. 1, no. 24, pp. 27–57, 1984.
15. C. D. Delhom, V. B. Martin, and M. K. Schreiner, “Engineering & Ginning: Textile industry needs,” J. Cotton
Sci., vol. 21, no. 1, pp. 210–219, 2017.
16. N. Fitrihana, “Pengetahuan Tekstil,” B4D3 Consultants, 2008. [Online]. Available:
https://batikyogya.wordpress.com/2008/08/21/pengetahuan-tekstil/. [Accessed: 02-Jul-2019].
17. R. R. Hegde, A. Dahiya, M. . Kamath, X. Gao, and P. K. Jangala, “Cotton Fibers,” India, 2004.
18. G. Hartanti, “Tenun dan Penerapannya pada Desain Interior sebagai Warisan Budaya,” Humaniora, vol. 2, no.
1, pp. 572–582, 2011.
19. T. Nurmeisarah, I. G. Sudirtha, and M. D. Angendari, “Tinjauan Tentang Tenun Tradisional Dusun Sade
Desa Rambitan Kecamatan Pujut Kabupaten Lombok Tengah,” J. Bosoparis, vol. X, no. 1, p. 12, 2015.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 76
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470917
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology
Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Fibre
Dody Mustafa 1* and Noerati Kemal 2
1 Politechnic STTT Bandung; [email protected]
2 Politechnic STTT Bandung; [email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-085-6201-8089
Abstract: This paper reports the structure and most significant parameters of fibre from dombos
in Wonosobo, Central java, Indonesia. Dombos is a mixbreed or crossbreed between domestic sheep
from Wonosobo and texel sheep from Netherlands. Dombos has unique hairs, that cannot be
utilized to be wool fibre. The external and internal structures of the fibre were evaluated based on
microscopic observations of the fineness and cross sections. It was determined that both the
surfaces and cross sections of the dombos fibres are shown. The aim of this study is to analize the
special characteristic of dombos fibre. The mechanical properties such as fibre length, fineness and
tenacity of dombos fibre are evaluated.
Keywords : fibres, wool fibre, dombos fibre,mechanical properties, morphology of fibre
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Wonosobo sheep or dombos are genetically originated from Central Java such as Kejajar,
Garung, Kalijajar, Mojotengah, Watumalang, and Kertek. This dombos can be raised in highland
about 600m sea level above. In 2010, the population of dombos in the whole area of Central Java
were 9808 (Muryanto, dkk., 2010). Dombos is a mixbreed or crossbreed between domestic sheep
from wonosobo and texel sheep from Netherlands.
Although dombos has unique hairs, it is unfortunate that the hairs are not able to be used as
wool fibre which caused a lot of waste. Local farmers usually burn the dombos hair and create
another problem in the environment such as air pollution. A minor part of dombos hair are made
use as pillow filling or burned. In fact, sheep hairs or fleeces were special part of sheep, it could be
1-2% of sheep total weight, however, domestic farmer nowadays cannot exploit the dombos fibre in
cosideration of the dombos fibre features.
2. Materials and Methods
1.1 Materials
Material used for characterization is sorted dombos fibre. The sorting process is intended to
separate the long and short fibres. Furthermore, the sorted fibres are cleaned of external impurities
such as twigs, dirt, dust, soil and internal impurities such as fat to avoid the smell and arisen
bacterias by scouring.
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Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
1.2 Micronaire
To get fineness in a unit of length quantity on dombos fibre, micronaire testing is needed which
later results in the form of micron scale fineness using SNI ISO 2403:2010. This standard test is
adopted by ISO/R 220 where the wool is one of the raw materials that can be used for this standard.
Samples in this test are as much as 5.9 gram using shadowgraph. The setting of mercury is 2.25
cmHg, air pressure is 1.75 kg / cm2 with an upper limit setting of 37.8 microns and a lower limit of
20.8 microns. The scheme of micronaire tester is shown in figure 1.
Notes : Figure 1. Scheme of micronaire tester
1. Air in
2. Foot controller 8. Master plug
3. Aair flux 9. compression chamber fibre
4. Pressure knop 10. Manometer
5. Guided knop 11. Valuer
6. Evaluator knop 12. Compression plunger
7. Air faucet 13. Air filter
14. Manometer
1.3 Fibre Length
Fibre length of the dombos fibre was measured with SNI ISO 6989:2016 using 100 samples of
dombos fibre.
1.4 Tensile Strength
The mechanical strength of the fibre was measured in accordance with the SNI ISO 3060:2010,
this standard test is adopted by ISO/R 220 which the wool is one of the raw materials that can be
used for this standard. The tensile strength and elongation at break of bundle fibres were
determined with an stelometer at 65% R.H. and 21 OC using a 1/8 inch gauge length.
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Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
Figure 2. Scheme of stelometer
1.5 Moisture Regain
Moisture regain was measured on samples equilibrated at same relative humadities with
temperatures 110 OC. The five samples (each weigthing about 3000 mg) were tested in mesdan
incubator oven. This method used SNI 8100:2015 where exicator and glass storage for fibre are
needed for additional evaluation.
1.6 Morphology
Fibre morphologies were examined using a microscope with scale 1:40 to see the cross section
and longitudinal of the fibre. Integrated PC Microscope which is used to examine can be seen from
figure 3.
Figure 3. Microscope integrated with PC 79
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470779
Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
3. Results
3.1. Mechanical Properties
In this research, the micronaire, fibre length and tensile strength are used for evaluation of
mechanical properties.
3.1.1. Micronaire
From the micronaire test data, the average micronaire number shows the number of 28
mikrogram/inch with FC 0.85 and the result of fineness dombos fibre is 8.5 dtex. To achive the dtex,
the formula is shown below:
Fineness (microgram/inch) = Fineness average x FC (1)
(2)
Fineness (militex) = Fineness average x 39.37 (3)
(4)
Fineness (denier) =
2.82
Fineness (dtex) = 10 ( )
9
3.1.2. Fibre length
In table 1 there is data fibre length where it turns out that the produced average length is 156.5
mm resulting from the formula:
FL (average) = (5)
Table 1. Data of fibre length
FL (mm) TF FL x TF (mm)
110 6 660
115 10 1150
120 10 1200
130 10 1300
135 15 2025
140 10 1400
145 10 1450
155 10 1550
165 10 1650
175 5 875
180 2 360
190 2 380
100 15,650
Notes:
FL = Fibre length
TF = Total Fibre
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Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
With an average fibre length of 156.5 mm, this dombos fibre is included in the long fibre and is
predicted to produce worsted yarn.
3.1.3. Tensile Strength
Tensile test results per bundle of dombos fibre can be seen in table 2 with CF values for the
tenacity of 1.131 and 0.535 of CF elongation, which is where the tenacity value and elongation at
break are generated from the formula:
Tenacity (g/tex) = 14.9 (6)
Elongation at break (%) = Elongation (7)
Tabel 2. Tenacity and elongation of dombos fibre
Breaking Elongation data Elongation at Weight of fibres Tenacity (g/tex)
break (%) (mg)
Strength (Kp) (%) 11.04
10.70 6.715 16.85
4.4 20.0 9.89 4.775 13.13
8.29 3.850 11.02
4.0 18.5 14.44 7.800 11.47
13.91 6.535 12.83
3.0 15.5 12.57 5.383 13.79
10.70 4.765 12.71
5.1 27.0 15.24 6.630 12.06
9.36 6.705 12.12
4.45 26.0 14.44 6.900 12.70
4.1 23.5 11.95 -
3.9 20.0
5.0 28.5
4.8 17.5
5.0 27.0
Average
3.2. Moisture Regain
Table 3 shows the moisture sorption of water for samples. The result indicates that the moisture
regain of dombos fibre is 14.48%. The formula for moisture regain is:
MR = ℎ − ℎ 100% (8)
ℎ
Table 3. Moisture Regain of dombos fibre
Gross weight (mg) Dry weight (mg) MR (%)
3000 2573 16.6
3000 2638 13.7
3000 2636 13.8
3000 2650 13.2
3000 2605 15.1
14.48
Average
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Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
3.3. Cross Sectional of Dombos fibre
The cross section and longitudinal view of the microscope demostrates that the cross section of
the fibre looks scaly, while the longitudinal cross section looks round but not evenly the same as the
cross section of wool fibre in general. The cross section and longitudinal morphology test results can
be seen in Figure 4.
Bulleted lists look like this:
First bul
let
(a) (b)
Figure 4. (a) Cross section dombos fibre, (b) Longitudinal cross section dombos fibre
4. Discussion
Since no one has discussed the dombos fibre characterization, this study has become the first to
write. Being the prior to write this study, the initial data are meant to determine the mechanical and
morphological properties of these dombos fibres, which are described as follows:
1. Data shows that the morphology of dombos fibres is same as wool in generaly.
2. The moisture regain was 14.48%, which indicated that the result was still below the moisture
regain of wool.
3. The fibre is fine because the micronaire test results show 8.5 dtex, if spun into yarn it will be
a very fine thread because the average fibre length is 156.5 mm.
4. From the data, the tenacity and stretch of this fibre will have good viscoelastic, but further
research is needed in order to find out its viscoelastic properties.
5. Conclusion
In conclusion, the application of dombos fibre can be used not only for clothing, but also in the
civil field as insulation panels and substitutes for heat insulators made of synthetic materials.
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Mustafa, Dody : A Study of Mechanical Properties and Morphology of Domba Wonosobo (Dombos) Wool
References
1. D. Rama Rao, V B Gupta, Physical and morphological characteristics of wool fibres, IJFTR vol 17, 1992.
2. Muryanto, Pelestarian dan pengembangan dombos, Loka aksara, 2010.
3. Sinclair, R. (2014). Understanding Textile Fibres and Their Properties: What is a Textile Fibre? Textiles and
Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology. Elsevier Ltd. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-84569-931-4.00001-5
4. M.Duldjaman, daya pintal dan kekuatan benang bulu domba priangan dan peranakan merino, ISSN
0126-0472, 2005
5. Zdzislaw C, Properties and structure of polish alpaca wool, Institute of natural fibre and medicinal plants,
FIBRE AND TEXTILE in EASTERN EUROPE, Vol 1, 2012.
6. SNI 8100:2015 Tekstil - Cara uji kadar lembab (moisture content atau moisture regain)
7. SNI ISO 3060:2010 Serat kapas - Cara uji kekuatan tarik per bundel datar
8. SNI ISO 2403:2010 Tekstil - Serat kapas - Cara uji nilai micronaire
9. SNI ISO 6989:2016 Tekstil – Serat – Cara uji panjang dan distribusi panjang serat stapel (cara per helai)
10. (http://m.id.ruili-textile-es.com/info/characteristic-of-lamb-fur-27474060.html)
11. http://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.1177/004051756603600814
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 83
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Morphological and Physico‐mechanical Properties
of Finished Cotton Fabric by Regenerated
Bombyx Mori Silk Fibroin
Vo Thi Lan Huong1,2, Duong Thi Thom1, and Nguyen Ngoc Thang1,*
1 Hanoi University of Science and Technology ‐ No. 1, Dai Co Viet Str., Hai Ba Trung, Ha Noi, Viet Nam;
[email protected]
2 Hanoi Industrial Textile Garment University ‐ Le Chi Ward, Gia Lam District, Ha Noi City, Viet Nam;
[email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +84‐904309930
Abstract: Silk is one of the natural protein fibers used widely all over the world. This
material has been found to be smooth and shiny, exhibits good mechanical strength, and is
biocompatible. It has been shown that fibroin may be dissolved into an aqueous solution,
and then formed into a number of different geometrical forms. This paper presented the
dissolving process of Vietnam Bombyx mori silk fibroin by an aqueous lithium bromide
solution and regenerated it onto cotton fabric via padding method. The fibroin coated cotton
fabrics were characterised by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform
infrared spectrophotometry (FTIR) and color measurement. The air permeability, wrinkle
recovery angle and breaking strength of the fibroin treated fabric were determined as
representative physico‐mechanical properties. The analysed results presented no change of
the air permeability values, noticeable increase in the wrinkle recovery angle values, and
slight improvement of the breaking strength when the fabrics were treated with higher silk
fibroin concentration.
Keywords: Bombyx mori silk; Fibroin solution; Regenerated fibroin; Padding; Cotton fabric
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
The raw Bombyx mori silk consists of two main components named fibroin and sericin.
However, the raw silk could not be used directly for textile application due to allergic
problem of the human skin with sericin [1,2.]Therefore, degumming process is applied to
remove sericin from silk fibroin. Silk fibroin has a long history of use as textile material due
to its mechanical robustness, high biocompatibility, biodegradability, morphologic
flexibility, and good water vapor permeability [1.]In recent years, regenerated silk fibroin
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Vo Thi Lan Huong : Morphological and physico‐mechanical properties of finished cotton fabric by regenerated Bombyx mori silk fibroin
from Bombyx mori silk has been widely studied as a biomaterial for tissue engineering and
regenerative medicine [‐15], environmentallysensitive hydrogel [,37,8], bone repair[‐57],
fracture fixation [‐68]. Dissolution and regeneration of the silk fibroin form the central steps
to shape the polymer for different functional applications. It has been shown that fibroin
could be dissolved in a number of different highly concentrated salt solutions, e.g., calcium
chloride/water/ethanol, calcium nitrate/methanol/water, and lithium bromide/water/ethanol
[13,‐12]. These solutions are subsequently dialyzed to remove the salt and regenerated
fibroin can be formed.
The use of silk fibroin solution as a finishing agent for the treatment of textile fabrics has
been reported [9,10]h, owever, the effect of different chemicals and organic solvent on the
fibroin regeneration from its solution have not studied yet in detail. In this investigation, the
dissolving process of Vietnam Bombyx mori silk fibroin by aqueous lithium bromide
solution, and the fibroin regeneration onto cotton fabrics using several chemical solutions
have been demonstrated. The fixation of silk fibroin onto cotton fabrics were characterised
by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry
(FTIR) and color measurement. To clarify the influence of the fibroin on the physico‐
mechanical properties of treated cotton fabrics, the selected samples were characterised with
regard to air permeability, wrinkle recovery angle and breaking strength. The results
contributed to the understanding of deposition and properties of the cotton fabric coated
regenerated silk fibroin. Such an approach would open new perspectives in application of
regenerated silk fibroin on textiles.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Materials
Raw Bombyx mori silk (Vong Nguyet village, Bac Ninh province, Vietnam) were
degummed in a solution of 5 g/l Na2CO3 at 98⁰C for 30 min at a liquor ratio of 1:20 (mass in
gram per volume in mL). The silk fibroin was rinsed five times by warm and cold distilled
water, then dried at 40⁰C and stored at 65% relative humidity and 20⁰C. Cotton fabric was
used in this study (100% cotton, Ne32, woven plain, scoured and bleached, Hungyen Textile
and Dyeing Co.,Ltd, Vietnam). Other chemicals (Na2CO3, C2H5OH, LiBr,
Al2(SO4)3.18H2O) purchased from Aladdin Shanghai Biochemical Technology Co.,Ltd,
China, were analytical graded.
2.2. Methods
Dissolution of Fibroin
A LiBr/C2H5OH/H2O (LiEtW) solution with a weight ratio of 45:44:11 was used as a
solvent for dissolution of silk fibroin. To prepare the solvent, 6.6g of LiBr was dissolved in
8.3ml ethanol and 1.7 ml distilled water [1]. Fibrosionlutions were prepared by dissolving a
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Vo Thi Lan Huong : Morphological and physico‐mechanical properties of finished cotton fabric by regenerated Bombyx mori silk fibroin
maximum amount of degummed fibroin in 10g LiEtW at 80 C for 1 h.
In this research, the maximum amount of degummed fibroin dissolved in the given
LiEtW solution was 1.4 g and the obtained solution contained of 12 wt% fibroin.
The process of degumming and dissolving silk fibroin was given in Figure 1.
Figure 1. Scheme of degumming and dissolving silk fibroin.
Table 1. The aqueous solutions used for regenerating silk fibroin solution
Solutions used for fibroin regeneration Abbreviations
Calcium chloride (CaCl2) ReS.Ca
Aluminum sulfate (Al2(SO4)3) ReS.Al
Methanol (CH3OH) ReS.Me
Ethanol (C2H5OH) ReS.Et
Acetone ((CH3)2CO) ReS.Ax
Regeneration of Fibroin
To find out a suitable condition for the regeneration of silk fibroin, the solution was
treated with different salt solutions and solvents listing in Table 1. In a typical process, 10 g
of the fibroin solution in LiEtW was mixed with 70 mL of the regenerated agent. The
solution was rested overnight to allow the regenerated fibroin to settle. The regenerated
fibroin appeared as a white substance, adhering to the glass subject and partly dispersed in
the solution. Three independent repetitions were performed for each experiment protocol.
The selected condition for the regeneration of silk fibroin was used to finish cotton fabrics.
Finishing of cotton fabric with silk fibroin solutions
In a typical experiment, 100ml of various concentration of fibroin solutions (0.5, 1, 1.5 wt
% fibroin) were prepared to finish cotton fabric. Cotton fabric samples with size of 35 35
cm were impregnated with the fibroin solution using a laboratory padder (nip pressure
0.6kg/cm2, 10rpm, Atlas, model D394A, China). The treated fabrics were then rested for 10
mins, and dried in a laboratory dryer (110⁰C, 2 mins; SDL mini dryer, model 398, England).
The dried samples were treated with Acetone solvent and dried in an oven. In the
subsequent step, the samples were soaked in an aluminum sulfate solution for two hours.
This process was repeated for the second time for permanent fixation of silk fibroin onto
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Vo Thi Lan Huong : Morphological and physico‐mechanical properties of finished cotton fabric by regenerated Bombyx mori silk fibroin
cotton samples. The samples were washed in distilled water to remove residual LiBr salt and
dried at 60⁰C. The process of finishing of cotton fabric with silk fibroin solutions was
illustrated in Figure 2.
Figure 2. Scheme of finishing of cotton fabric with silk fibroin solutions.
Analytical Methods
Scanning Electron Microscope (SM‐6510LV Jeol, Japan) and Fourier transform infrared
spectrophotometry (Nicolet iS10, Thermo Scientific, America) were used to confirm the
regeneration of silk fibroin onto cotton fabric.
The color change of the treated sample with the untreated sample was evaluated using a
Data color 800 spectrophotometer (Data color, USA). The ∆L*, ∆a*, ∆b* values of the samples
over the range of 400‐600nm were used to calculate the color‐difference value of ∆E using
the equation 1.
∆E = √∆L∗ + ∆a∗ + ∆b∗ (1)
Physico‐mechanical property measurements
The air permeability measurement was performed according to DIN 53887:1977 using a
SDL ATLAS tester (M021A SDL ATLAS, USA). The wrinkle recovery angle of the samples
was evaluated according to ISO 2313:1972, using a wrinkle recovery tester (HUST, Hanoi,
Vietnam). The breaking strength of the samples was tested in warp and weft directions,
according to TCVN 1754 – 1986, using a Universal Material Testing Machine (RT‐ 1250A,
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Japan).
3. Results and discussion
3.1. Solubility of silk fibroin in Lithium bromide/ Ethanol/Water
It was reported in the literatures that the degumming silk fibroin dissolves only in a
limited number of solvents and alcoholic aqueous salt solutions, due to the presence in
fibroin of a large amount of inter‐ and intra‐molecular hydrogen bonds, and its high
crystallinity and specific physicochemical properties. In this research, we chose the LiEtW
(weight ratio of Lithium bromide/ Ethanol/ Water was 45:44:11) solution as a co‐solvent to
dissolve the silk fibroin because lithium halides solutions exhibited high solvency with silk
fibroin [1,13‐14]T. he interaction of solvent ions in the alcoholic aqueous salt solution with
functional groups of the fibroin macromolecules leaded to dissolution of fibroin. It had been
assumed that the inter‐ and intra‐molecular hydrogen bonds in the chains of fibroin were
broken as a result of the nucleophilic attack by the anion [13,1]4 .
In order to use the fibroin solution for finishing textile fabrics, high content of silk
fibroin in the fibroin solution should be made. As the previous reports, the solubility of silk
fibroin in the LiEtW system is quite good; however, the concentration of resulted silk fibroin
solution is not high. Thus, we tried to increase the amount of fibroin dissolving in the LiEtW
solution by increase of the temperature. In this work, 1.4 g silk fibroin was completely
dissolved in 10 ml of the given LiEtW solution at 80⁰C for 1h. As shown in the Figure 1, the
obtained fibroin solution was transparent, dark yellow and high viscosity. The fibroin
concentration in the obtained solution was much higher than that reported in previous
studies [1, 11,131,4].
3.2. Fibroin regeneration
To recover silk fibroin from salt‐containing aqueous solutions, the dialysis process was
applied. This process removed the inorganic salt (LiBr) and organic solvent (EtOH), and
destabilised the Li‐fibroin complex leading to coagulation of silk fibroin. The main
disadvantage of the dialyzed process is the long preparation time (aqueous fibroin solutions
should be dialyzed for several days). Thus, to apply the regeneration of silk fibroin from its
solution for coating textile material in the large scale, replacement of dialysis by mores
simple operations should be considered.
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Vo Thi Lan Huong : Morphological and physico‐mechanical properties of finished cotton fabric by regenerated Bombyx mori silk fibroin
Figure 3. FTIR spectra of the samples: (a) Silkworm cocoon; (b) Degummed silk fibroin; (c)
Regenerated silk fibroin in acetone solvent; (d) Regenerated silk fibroin in Al2(SO4)3 aqueous
solution.
In this study, various regenerated fibroin solution systems were investigated, and the
results showed that the best condition for the regeneration of silk fibroin were treated the
fibroin solution with both acetone solvent and Al2(SO4)3 solution. Acetone solvent acted as a
poor solvent in which silk fibroin molecules shrink when the fibroin solution was poured
into the acetone solvent. The collected coagulation of fibroin was then treated with Al2(SO4)3
solution to replace Li+ ions in the fibroin‐Li+ complex by Al3+ ions to form stable fibroin‐Al
complex. It means that this coagulation method could be applied to deposit directly silk
fibroin onto surface of cotton fabric.
In order to determine the change of functional groups of silk fibroin in each step of
dissolved and regenerated fibroin processes, the infrared spectroscopic measurements of
silkworm cocoon, degummed silk fibroin, regenerated silk fibroin in acetone solvent and
regenerated silk fibroin in Al2(SO4)3 aqueous solution samples were performed, and the
spectra were given in Figure 3. The characteristic peaks of silk fibroin at 3274 (cm‐1), 1619 (cm‐1),
1514 (cm‐1) and 1231 (cm‐1) are associated with N‐H in amino group, C = O (amide I), C = O (amide II)
and C = O (amide III), respectively [1, ‐911]. Compare to the raw silk fibroin and the regenerated
fibroin, the silk fibroin in LiEtW solution shown a significant shift in N‐H group. The amide I and
amide II absorbance shifted toward higher wavenumbers of 3280 (cm‐1) for N‐H group, 1621 (cm‐1) for
amide I and 1515 (cm‐1) for amide II, while amide III absorbance slightly blue shifted from 1231(cm‐1)
to 1230 (cm‐1). The shift of the amide absorbance could be due to the interaction of Li+ ions with amino
groups of fibroin molecules to form the fibroin‐Li+ complex. The peak at 2937.3 (cm‐1) was confirmed
the C‐H group, and peaks at 1604‐1608 (cm‐1) were C‐N groups of amino acid [1, 9, 11.]On the basis of
the FTIR observations, the mechanism of fibroin regeneration was elucidated in light of Figure 4.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 89
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470884
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RASHID -ITC Proceeding Book
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