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3.3. Transforming the image of 2D to 3D
In this section, the researcher used the sketches image during the idea development process to a
3D prototype. This will give a total look of the garment so that the researcher can identify the
problems at the early stage from different views. The techniques used by the researcher is draping on
dummy and producing toile.
Figure 5. Transforming the 2D Images sketches to 3D prototype samples
(Design 1)
In this proposed prototype, exploration was on the flexibility effect at the underarm. The
suggested adjustable closure used is buttons and loops. After completing the toile, the researcher
identifies that the garment does not fully expand. The expansion and shrinking effect only occur at
the bust. Based on the criteria, the adjustment of expansion must occur at the bust and abdomen,
since that is the main physical changes occur during pregnancy. As a result, a hidden pleat using
invisible zip as adjustable closures is suggested at the centre front for a wider expansion effect for this
proposed product.
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Figure 6. Transforming the 2D Images sketches to 3D prototype samples
(Design 2)
In this proposed prototype, exploration was on the flexibility effect at the princess line. After
completing the toile, the researcher refines the idea by placing a hidden pleats with invisible zip were
only placed at the back and front princess line, however at the pleats were also inserted at the centre
front as well as centre back for a wider garment expansion. The opening of the zip must be adjustable
until the bust. In addition, a placement of pocket was added to this design to enhance the
functionality.
Figure 7. Transforming the 2D Images sketches to 3D prototype samples 241
(Design 3)
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In the final ideation development, researcher designs a multi-function garment which can be
worn as a top and skirt. In the early stage of this garment making, the researcher uses bias cut flare as
the flexibility medium. However, the expansion was not wide enough to be worn during pregnancy.
As a result, additional hidden pleats with invisible zip is placed at the back and front princess line.
3.4. Refining the Product
The researcher has decided that the proposed product (maternity garment) must have aesthetic
value and functionality. The researcher refines the product based on the findings of the survey.
(Refer to Table 1). The components that researchers focus on were the closures and design details,
pattern and garment construction and the material used to obtain a flexible maternity wear.
3.4.1 Closures and Design Details
Based on the result of the analyzed data, the closures that the mothers prefer during pregnancy
are buttons, zip, hook and bar, strap buttons and velcro. As for the design detail on the garments,
most mothers prefer to have garment with flares, pin tucks and hidden pocket. Therefore the
researcher aims in designing maternity garments with these closures and design details.
3.4.2 Pattern and Garment Construction
The technical pattern of the prototype was made using pattern block construction and draping.
The working patterns were transferred to final patterns to produce the actual and final prototype.
3.4.3 Fabrics and Materials
The most suitable fabrics and materials for local maternity wear are light to medium weight
fabrics. The best and common fabric suggested by the clinical is cotton fabric. Referring to the data
collected, the characteristics of cotton fabric is moisture control, hypoallergenic, insulation,
waterproof, comfort and durability. The reason to this is that 100% cotton is a fully breathable fabric,
which it is cooler when worn in hot conditions. (Smeader,2010). Furthermore, an article by Peterman
(2009) had stated that the advantages of cotton clothing are breathable and has ability to control the
body moisture.
Therefore researcher had chosen to apply cotton as material in maternity garment and other
textile as a substitute to this proposed design. The colours chosen for this design were warm and cool
colour with minimal motifs, since more that 50% of the respondents prefer minimal motifs.(Table 1)
3.5. Technical Drawing of Complete Design
Figure 8 shows a technical drawing of design 1. The shrinking and expansion medium are
buttons and loop at the armhole, loop and band at the side waist and invisible zip with pleats at the
centre front.
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Figure 8. Technical Drawing of Design 1
Figure 9. Technical Drawing of Design 2
Figure 9 shows a technical drawing of design 2. The shrinking and expansion medium are
buttons and loop at the side waist and invisible zip with pleats at the centre front, front princess line,
centre back and back princess line. A placement of pockets at the side is additional function to the
design.
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Figure 10. Technical Drawing of Design 3
Figure 10 shows a technical drawing of design 3. The researcher applied a multi-functional
garment, which can be worn as a top and a skirt. The medium flexibility of this design is the
adjustable pleats at the front and back princess line with invisible zip, as well as the flare of the
garment. An invisible zip is placed at side seam, for armhole when worn as a top.
4. Discussion
In the process of development, three design products were made to meet the objectives of this
research. The objectives were the following:-
Provide pregnant women with clothing that is valued as it can be worn during pre to post-
natal.
Design 1 until 3 were designed with adjustable characteristics which means they can shrink and
expand, to be worn throughout their pregnancy period, pre and post-natal period. In addition, design
3 were designed as functional garments that can be adjusted into different garments which are skirt,
cape or dress, to be worn during pre and post-natal based on the suitability of the mother.
Provide pregnant women with clothing that can be expand and shrink using fastenings and
design details.
Since the body of the mother grew gradually from month to month, the researcher designed
garments with fastenings and design details as the medium of expansion and shrinking effect of the
garments. The adjustments were designed for the adjustment of bust and waist, since those are the
main body changes during pregnancy. Design details of flared and pleated which created wider
expansion were chosen rather than pin tuck. Whereas the closures, zips and draw stings were used to
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control the expansion and shrinking sizes, rather than hook and bar, or snap buttons, since its
adjustment is limited.
In the process of developing and exploring the proposed product, the researcher had developed
more critical analysis of what each garment should include and its function. The researcher had
started with the idea that flexibility of the garment is from big into small or small to big, but with
further development gives the idea of developing the garment into useful garments for pre or post
pregnancy. In the first design, the researcher explored different closures but is only minimally
explored onto the garment for the purpose of practicality and comfort of the pregnant mother.
However, the researcher explores different types of closures, design panels and functional design
details, such as the pocket to the second design. The development was not only focusing in the
expansion of bust and abdomen but around the body. This development eventually gives an
innovative look to this design.
5. Conclusion
In conclusion the researcher has achieved the aims and objectives of the research, in providing
pregnant women with flexible clothing that can be worn from pre until post-natal period by adjusting
different closures and design details. Through exploration of different closures as a medium in
developing the expansion and shrinking of the garment, the researcher had exposed other innovative
functions of closures rather than only using them to fasten the garment. Furthermore, this research
will also provide ideas of how a functional garment can also be a wearable stylish garment rather
than as an art to wear.
5.1 Recommendation
In completing the research studies, the researcher offers a few recommendations for future
related research. The main development of the product was aimed in creating innovation on the
silhouette of the garment and only minimal studies were made on the fabric. Therefore, it is
recommended that a further study on suitable technical textile such as anti-radiation fabric as a
continuation of this research.
Moreover, the colours of the proposed product were derived from the psychological colour
studies. However, an evaluation of colour mood has not yet been done, due to the limitation of
expertise and time. Therefore, a further study to evaluate the mother’s colour mood when wearing
the garments is suggested
In addition, the researcher would also suggest a nursing maternity garment for a future study as
a continuation of this research, since this research proposed a flexible garment that can be worn
during the post-natal period.
A suggestion of exploration on the functions of the closures other than fastening the garment
would also be a good attempt for a future study. In this research, the researcher explored closures as
medium of expanding and shrinking the garment. However, the researcher believed that closures can
also be used as functional decorative accessories such as zip into a belt or buttons as buckle or
brooches.
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Furthermore, the researcher suggests local designers could apply the idea of shrinking and
expanding using design details and fastenings on garments that can be marketed such as women’s
uniform or uniform body troops (e.g. police, hospital uniform, etc.). This will create awareness of
functional garments to fashion consumers, rather than acts as an art expression (art to wear)
6. Patents
The technical drawings of design and research of the maternity wear collection has intellectual
property with reference number AR2019003137.
References
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2. Barnfield, R. (2012). Pattern Cutting Primer. Switzerland: Page One Publishing Pte Ltd.
3. Beckford, R. (n.d.). Pregnancy Body Size Changes. Retrieved from Ehow:
http://www.ehow.com/video_4441457_pregnancy-body-size-changes.htm
4. Bishop, T. (2011). Young, funky and pregnant. Retrieved from http://articles.baltimoresun.com/2001-10-
28/news/0110280370_1_venus-motherhood-wilsons
5. Brindley, G. S. (1955). The Colour Of Light Of Very Long Wavelength. Journal of physiol. Retrieved from
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6. Cardy, L., & Dart, A. (1982). Maternity Clothes. London: Bell& Hyman Limited.
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http://www.medicinenet.com/pregnancy/article.htm#facts
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10. Conrad-Stopler, M. (2012). What is the second trimester (week 13-week 28)? Retrieved from Medicinet:
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11. Conrad-Stopler, M. (n.d.). What are the changes that happen to a woman's body during the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
trimester of her pregnancy? Retrieved from Medicinet:
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12. Halbriech, B. (1998). Secrets of a Fashion Therapist. Great Britain: Aurum Press Ltd.
13. Handley, M. C. (2006). EMOTIONAL RESPONSES TO PREGNANCY BASED ON GEOGRAPHICAL
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Study on contents of Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex
FFRC in flame retardant treatment for cotton fabrics
Nguyen Thi Huong 1, 2, Vu Thi Hong Khanh 1*
1 Hanoi University of Science and Technology, No. 1, Dai Co Viet, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Viet Nam;
[email protected]
2 Hanoi Industrial Textile Garment University, Le Chi, Gia Lam, Hanoi, Viet Nam;
[email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +84-903-446-318
Abstract: N-methylol dimethylphosphonopropionamide with labeled Pyrovatex CP New and
the crosslinking modified dihydroxy ethylene urea formaldehyde free labeled Knittex FFRC
has achieved good flame retardancy for cotton fabrics. In this study, we are interested in the
combination of these two compounds at different concentration in the process of flame
retardant. There are 9 options were experimented. The fabric samples treated with 3 different
concentrations 350, 400 and 450 g/l of Pyrovatex CP New and each of the different concentrations
80, 100, 120 g/l of Knittex FFRC. The flame-retardant efficiency of treated samples and the
samples after 20, 30 washing of cycles were evaluated through the characteristics of the 45°
flame test. The method was according to ASTM D 1230-94 standard. The results showed that
the treated samples after being burned for 9s were self-extinguish, and the char length less
than 30 mm. The drapability of samples were tested according to NF G07-109 standard. The
finished cotton fabrics were soft.
Keywords : Flame retardant; Cotton; Pyrovatex CP New; Durable; Formaldehyde free.
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Cotton is a natural vegetable single elongated fiber, developed from an epidermal cell of the
cotton seed, which grows in many countries of the world [1]. Cotton fabric is an important textile
widely used to produce apparel, home furnishings, and various industrial products due to its
characteristics of softness, breathability, and capability to absorb moisture [2]. However, cotton
fabric has low fire resistance [3-6]. Cotton fabrics catch fire easily and the flame spreads fast [7].
Therefore, it is necessary to flame retardant treatment for cotton fabric.
Among several chemical finishes being applied to impart FR properties to cotton fabrics,
very few create finished fabrics that can withstand FR properties after being laundered several
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times. N-methylol dimethyl phosphonopropionamide (MDPA) is among the major FR
materials utilized for the cotton fabrics [8], which reacts with cellulose hydroxyl groups and
forms covalent bond. These compounds affect the themolysis, prevent the formation of
levoglucosan and flammable volatiles, and promote the formation of char. In contrast, they
may release formaldehyde when combined with melamine resin [9]. Thus, it is necessary to
select a new cross-linking agent to provide a better fire resistance effect for cotton.
In our previous study, in the flame retardant finishing for cotton fabric, Pyrovatex CP New
(PR) has been used as flame retardant agent, Citric acid and Kinitex FFRC (modified DHEU) have
been used as cross-linking agents. The results show that the treated with PR combined K
withstand 45° flame test. In addition, this fire resistance maintains up to 30 of washing cycles.
Hence, in this study the cotton fabrics were treated with different contents of PR and Knittex
FFRC. The aim is to observe the effect of chemical content on the fire resistance of treated
samples and after 30 wash cycles. The 45° flammability test characteristics of untreated and
treated samples after different number of washing cycle were determined to assess the flame
retardancy of the treated fabric and its laundering durability. Besides, drapability test was used
to evaluate the softness of fabric before and after processing.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1 Materials
The 100% cotton, 2/1 twill weaves fabric with construction 17.24 × 35.71 (Tex)/142 × 58 (per
inch) weighing 190 g/m2 was supplied by Hanoi Dyeing Joint Stock Company, Viet Nam. The
fabrics were desized, scoured, bleached and mercerized. Pyrovatex CP New (PR), Knittex FFRC
(K), Invadine PBN were supplied by Huntsman. Pyrovatex CP New (PR) is a N-methylol
dimethylphosphonpropionamide, and in this study, was used as flame retardant agent.
Knittex FFRC is a modified dihydroxy ethylene urea, which was used as crosslinking and
Invadine PBN as tenside agents. The chemical formulas of the main agents are showed in
Table 1.
Table 1. Chemical formulas of the main agents
Agents Chemical formula
Pyrovatex CP New
Dihydroxy ethylene 249
urea
2.2 Methods
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One bath, pad-dry-cure technique was used in this study for flame retardant treatment.
Firstly, the fabric was impregnated in finishing solution, then padded, dried and cured.
2.2.1 Finishing solution
In order to find the effects of two variables factors (PR and K concentrations) on fire
resistance efficiency, the concentration of PR was changed from 350 g/l to 450 g/l, the
concentration of K was changed from 80 to 120 g/l. In all experiment, the concentration of
tenside agent was 5 g/l.
2.2.2 Flame retardant treatment process
In this study, the fabric samples 35x 35cm were impregnated with finishing solution with
different chemical concentrations (Shown in Table 2). The fabrics were padded through two
nips to reach an average wet pickup of 80% by padder SDL D394A, then the samples were dried
at 110 °C for 5 minutes, and the cured time is 180°C for 2 minutes. The stenter SDL D398 was
used for drying and curing steps. Finally, the samples were washed under running water for 5
minutes and dried in the stenter at 110 °C for 3 minutes. The treated samples were stored in the
polyethylene bags and in the standard laboratory conditions for 24 hours before any further
analysis.
Table 2. The bath formulations
Sample code PR (g/l) K (g/l) Tenside
(g/l)
S1 350 80 5
S2 350 100 5
S3 350 120 5
S4 400 80 5
S5 400 100 5
S6 400 120 5
S7 450 80 5
S8 450 100 5
S9 450 120 5
2.2.3 Washing of treated samples
The treated samples were washed in accordance with ISO-6330 standard clause 6A [10]. This
study aims to determine the flame retardant durability of the treated fabric. This process added
non phosphate ECE reference detergent A, and tested by the Electrolux EW 1290W front load
washing machine. After the end 20 and 30 of washing cycles, the samples are retained to test the
flammability of samples.
The flame retardant finishing and the washing process were carried out at chemical
textile LAB of Hanoi University of Science and Technology (HUST)
2.2.4 Flammability test 250
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The flame retardant treated samples were tested on a 45° flammability tester according to
ASTM D 1230-94 [11] procedure to observe ignition times, char length, after-flame and after-
glow of the samples. The test was carried out at chemical textile LAB of Hanoi University of
Science and Technology.
2.2.5 Determination of drapability
AFNOR - NF G07-109 [12] Tests for fabrics- Method for determination of the drape of a
woven or knitted fabric. There are control and 3 samples with different chemical content that
have been tested drapability (S1, S5 and S9)
3. Results
3.1 The flammability of finished cotton fabrics.
The flame resistances of the control and finished cotton fabric samples were assessed by the
characteristics of 45◦ flammability test. The result shows in Table 3, Figure 1
Table 3 and Figure 1 show that the control sample burned strongly after direct exposure to
the ignition source. The ignition time was only 3 seconds. After removing the combustion
source, the sample continued to burn and after-flame was 36s. After extinguishing, there was 9 s
of after-glow, and the cotton fabric almost completely burned out without any remains. In
contrast, during the flame testing, the treated sample self-extinguished immediately while the
flame was removed. No after-flame and after-glow were observed and the ignition times were 9
seconds (3 times longer than the untreated sample, Figure 2).
The results in Table 3 and Figures 1b, 1c and 1d showed that the treated samples created
char with a length of less than 3cm. Thus, the flame resistance of the cotton fabric was enhanced
with the applied flame retardant finish.
Table 3. 45o flammability characteristics of control, treated samples
Sample Ignition times After-flame (s) After-glow (s) Char length Number of
(s) (mm) washing cycle
Control 3 36 9 Completely 0
burned
S1 9 00 27 ± 1
S2 9 00 26 ± 1
S3 9 00 27 ± 2
S4 9 00 27 ± 1
S5 9 00 26 ± 1
S6 9 00 26 ± 2
S7 9 00 26 ± 1
S8 9 00 27± 1
S9 9 00 26 ± 2
S1 9 00 27 ± 1
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Sample Ignition times After-flame (s) After-glow (s) Char length Number of
(s) (mm) washing cycle
S2 9 00 26 ± 2 20
S3 9 00 26 ± 3
S4 9 00 26 ± 2 30
S5 9 00 26 ± 2
S6 9 00 26 ± 1
S7 9 00 26 ± 3
S8 9 00 26± 2
S9 9 00 26 ± 2
S1 9 00 27 ± 1
00
S2 9 00 26 ± 1
S3 9 00 26 ± 2
S4 9 00 26 ± 1
S5 9 00 26 ± 2
S6 9 00 26 ± 1
S7 9 00 26 ± 1
S8 9 00 26± 2
S9 9 26 ± 3
a) Control b) S1 to S9 treatedsamples
c) S1 to S9 after 20 of washing cycle d) S1 to S9 after 30 of washing cycle
Figure 1. The results 45o flammability test of control; 20, 30 of washing cycle and treated
samples
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10
Control 350-80 350-100 350-120 400-80 400-100 400-120 450-80 450-100 450-120
Figure 2. The Ignition times of control; No washing (0 OWC); 20 of washing cycles (20
OWC), and 30 of washing cycles (30 OWC) samples
3.2 Drapability of the control and treated fabrics.
The result in Table 4 shows the drapability of the original and the cotton fabrics finished
with different concentrations of Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex FFRC. After treatment, the
drapability of the fabric was almost unchanged. The treated cotton fabrics remained soft. These
small changes in Drape coefficient do not have a practical impact on the product. No color
distortion of the fabric was observed owing to the flame retardant finish application.
Table 4. Drape coefficient of control and treated cotton fabrics
Drape coefficient of Drape coefficient of The average value of
Drape coefficient D
Sample reverse D (%) the face D (%) (%)
Control 56,26 56,73 56,49
400-100 56,95 57,87 57,41
450-120 55,56 56,12 55,84
350-80 53,87 54,57 54,22
4. Discussion
The results from this study show that Pyrovatex CP New provides durable flame
retardancy on cotton fabric. The char formation of treated samples may be due to the the
phosphorus-based flame retardant, which promoted the dehydration of the cotton fabric
when the fabric was thermally decomposed [9]. There was virtually no difference in the
char length of the samples treated with 9 different finishing solutions for up to 20, 30 of
washing cycles. This suggests that Knittex FFRC and Pyrovatex CP New are a durable
crosslinking and flame retardant agents in finishing treatment for cotton fabrics. In addition,
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the treated cotton fabrics remained soft.
On the other hand, the 45◦ flammability test is not severe enough to assess the difference in
the ability flame retardant of cotton fabric when was treated with different concentration of PR
and K. Therefore, there is a need for other studies such as vertical flammability test, TGA or
LOI, and so on in order to assess their difference.
Acknowledgments: This work was comprehended in the framework of project KC.02.13/16-20
which is financed by the MOST of Vietnam. The authors wish to sincerely thank KC.02/16-20
program, Chemical-textile LAB, Testing center of textile - leather materials and Laboratory
of Polymer and
Composite Materials of HUST for supports during our research. The authors also thanks Hanoi
Industrial Textile Garment University for supporting the publication of this research.
Author Contributions: Vu Thi Hong Khanh conceived and designed the experiments;
Nguyen Thi Huong. performed the experiments; Vu Thi Hong Khanh and Nguyen Thi
Huong analyzed the data, wrote the paper.
Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest. The founding sponsors had no
role in the design of the study; in the collection, analyses, or interpretation of data; in the
writing of the manuscript, and in the decision topublish the results.
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9. Sohail Y., Parag B., Nemeshwaree B., Giorgio R., Optimizing Organophosphorus Fire Resistant Finish for Cotton
Fabric Using Box-Behnken Design, In: International Journal of Environmental Research, 2016. 10(2), pp. 313-320.
10. Zheng D., Zhou J., Zhong L., Zhang F., Zhang G., A novel durable and high-phosphorous-containing flame
retardant for cotton fabrics, In: Cellulose, 2016. 23(3), pp. 2211-2220.
11. NF EN ISO 6330 -Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing, in: European standard. 2002, French
12. ASTM D 1230 -94 Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles, In: Philadelphia, PA: American
Society for Testing and Materials. 1994.
13. NF G07-109, Tests for fabrics. Method for determination of the drape of a woven or knitted fabric., 1980.
ISBN :978-623-91916-0-3 254
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470943
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
The Utilization of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) as
The Source of Natural Dye in Dyeing of Silk Batik
Dwi Wiji Lestari 1, and Yudi Satria 1
1 Center for Handicraft and Batik, Ministry of Industry Republic of Indonesia
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-822-4526-6610
Abstract : Exploration of various types of plants that are the largest source of natural dyes has begun
to developed. Study on the utilization of Kudo (Lannea coromandelica) as a natural dye for silk batik
had been conducted. Extraction of natural dye was carried out using water with a temperature at 100
°C. The coloration was applied to silk batik at both acidic (pH 4) and basic (pH 10) conditions using
alum and ferrous sulfate as the mordants. The results indicated that kudo bark has the potential to be
used as a source of natural dyes for silk batik. The highest color strength was obtained by using kudo
bark extract under basic condition with the presence of ferrous sulfate. The obtained color shades for
acid conditions with ferrous sulfate fixative, acid conditions with alum fixative, base conditions with
alum fixative and base conditions with ferrous sulfate fixative, were dark brown, light brown, beige,
and reddish brown, respectively. The results of fastness properties of the dyed fabric were good (4-5).
Keywords : batik; natural dye; kudo; silk
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Indonesian batik is a masterpiece of cultural heritage in humanity and has been recognized by
United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 2009. Currently,
Indonesian batik Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) generally used natural dyes in dyeing
process of batik. The immensity of Indonesia that has a diversity of specific crops is a potential
natural resource for this country. Part of tropical plants such as roots, wood, bark, stems, leaves,
flowers, seeds, sap and fruit have been used to produce natural dyes in batik. Variety of plant species
in tropical has been used in beautifying Indonesian batik through the resulting color [3].
Kudo tree (Lannea coromandelica) or commonly called by the locals in different parts of
Indonesia as Jaran wood (Java), Javanese wood (Sulawesi), Reo tree (Flores) is a softwood species and
belongs to Anacardiaceae family and Lannea genus. Beaman, J.H (1986) in Reddy, A.K (2011) said
that among the 40 members of the genus Lannea, only Kudo trees grow in tropical Asia. Its
international name is Indian Ash [10].
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Dwi Wiji Lestari : The Utilization Of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) As The Source Of Natural Dye In Dyeing Of Silk Batik
In the bark of Kudo, it is contained flavonoid and terpenoid compounds, but no alkaloids and
steroids were found [10]. Flavonoids are one of the metabolites that are known to be color carriers.
Flavonoid compounds are a group of the largest phenol compounds found in nature. These
compounds are the red, purple, blue and yellow carrier substances found in plants. With the content
of flavonoids, kudo bark has the potential to be used as a source of natural dyes [11].
The use of kudo bark as natural dyes for textiles has been widely reported. Varenkar & Sellapam
made kudo bark extract with the ratio of ingredients material : water (1 : 5) at 60 °C for 4-5 hours and
produced a brownish red on textile dyeing [6]. The kudo bark extract also gives a light red colour if
using tin fixation, as was done by Ravi Upadhyay & Mahendra Singh Choudhary [9].
This research aims to study the potential as well as to determine the quality of natural coloration
of kudo on silk batik.
2. Materials And Methods
2.1 Materials and reagents
The materials employed were Kudo bark from Palu (Central Sulawesi), silk fabric, batik wax,
Turkey Red Oil (TRO), distillated water, Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), Acetic acid (CH3COOH), alum
(Al2(SO4)3.K2SO4.24H2O) and Ferrous sulfate (FeSO4).7H2O.
2.2 Apparatus
The equipment used were natural dye stuff extractor, stirrer, dyeing bath, laboratory glassware,
analytical scales, universal pH indicator, and tools for batik making and process were used in this
work. Shimadzu 2401 UV-Vis Spectrophotometer (PC) S for color strength test and rotawash color
fastness tester (Launder-O-meter) for color fastness to washing test.
2.3 Extraction of Dye
Kudo bark was extracted using aquadest in the weight ratio of 1:10 and boiled for 60 minutes.
The extract solution and wood were separated by filtration and then the solution was cooled for 60
minutes before dyeing process.
2.3 Pre-Mordanting Process
The silk fabrics were macerated using mordant before dyeing process. Alum and sodium
carbonate were added in hot water until completely dissolved. The mordant process was carried out
at 80 °C for 60 minutes, and left for 12 hours at room temperature. Then, the fabrics were washed
using water and dried at room temperature.
2.4 Dyeing Process
The dyeing was done repeatedly 6 times to ensure maximum absorption of dye. Each immersion
is done for 15 minutes. The pH of dye solution give effects to the color result. In order to achieve an
acid condition, a number of acetic acid was added to the dye solution. However, addition of sodium
carbonate was conducted to make the dye solution turns basic (pH 10).
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Dwi Wiji Lestari : The Utilization Of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) As The Source Of Natural Dye In Dyeing Of Silk Batik
2.6 Fixation (Post Mordanting) Process
The process of fixation is done by immersing the dyed fabrics in 2 types of fixative solution, there
were alum and ferrous sulfate for 2-4 minutes until evenly distributed, then poured, rinsed with
water and dried.
3. Results
Table 1. Test Results of Color Fastness to Washing
acid-basic condition, Color strength Color fastness to dE*ab (Color
fixative (K/S) washing Shade)
acid, alum 0,06 4 (Good) 32,58
acid, ferrous sulfate 0,07 4 (Good) 43,45
base, alum 0,01 4-5 (Good) 16,61
base, ferrous sulfate 0,04 4-5 (Good) 63,6
4. Discussion
4.1 Color difference test (L, a, b) and Color Shade (dE*ab) value
In the color shade test, the L notation represents the reflected light that produces white, gray,
and black acromatic color with a range of 0-100 values. The notation a denotes a red-green mixed
chromatic color, with a + a (positive) value from 0 to +100 for red, and a -a (negative) value from 0 to -
80 for green. Notation b denotes a blue-yellow mixed chromatic color, with a + b (positive) value from
0 to +70 for yellow and a -b (negative) value from 0 to -70 for blue. dE*ab value indicates the color
shade between the standard fabric and the samples [4].
It can be seen in Table 1, dE*ab value on the dyeing in basic condition use ferrous sulfate fixative
gives the highest value, 43,45. Treatment with different fixative materials gives different coloration
result. Alum fixative creates brighter color and ferrous sulfate fixative creates the darker color [8].
pH 4
(acid)
Alum Fixation, Alum Fixation, Ferrous sulfate Fixation, Ferrous sulfate Fixation,
Before wax removal After wax removal Before wax removal After wax removal
pH 10
(base)
Alum Fixation, Alum Fixation, Ferrous sulfate Fixation, Ferrous sulfate Fixation,
Before wax removal After wax removal Before wax removal After wax removal
Figure 1. Silk Batik Dyeing using Kudo Bark
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Dwi Wiji Lestari : The Utilization Of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) As The Source Of Natural Dye In Dyeing Of Silk Batik
As shown in Figure 1, the fabric has been dyed with natural dyes and produces a brown color,
either in acid or base. The obtained color shades for acid condition with ferrous sulfate fixative, acid
condition with alum fixative, basic condition with alum fixative and basic condition with ferrous
sulfate fixative, were dark brown, light brown, beige, and reddish brown, respectively.
4.2 Color Fastness to Washing Test
As shown in Table 1, the results of the color fastness to washing showed good quality on 4-5
scale. The gray scale within range 1-5 was used as the color change on fabrics, where 1 is poor and 5 is
outstanding. This is because silk fibers that have protein-molecular structure have good binding
power with natural dyes.
The addition of fixative materials (complex salts) is essential for increasing the dye resistance of
natural dyes. The addition of fixative materials such as alum and ferrous sulfate will enlarge the dye
molecules and make it difficult to get out from the pores of the fibers [5].
4.3 Color Strength Test (K/S)
The color strength test is performed to find out the amount of dyestuff absorbed by the fabric.
K/S expressed the relative color strength of dyed fabrics and evaluated by the light reflectance
technique using Kulbeka-Munk equation.
K/S = (1 – R)2 / 2R ……........................................................ (1)
K is the absorption coefficient, S is the scattering coefficient, and R is the decimal fraction of the
reflectance of dyed fabric.
As shown in Table 1, the color strength value ranged from 0,01 to 0,07. The highest value is the
sample of the dyeing on acidic conditions with ferrous sulfate fixative. It is because at the time of
fixation using ferrous sulfate fixative, there is a reaction between polyflavonoid tannins from natural
dye and Fe3+ from the fixative material of ferrous sulfate which produces complex salt. Ferrous
sulfate mordant is well known for it’s ability to form complex coordination bond and to chelate with
the dye and interact with the fibers [7].
The reaction between tannins with Fe3+ metals in silk dyeing can be seen in Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
Figure 2. Tannin reaction with Fe3+ from ferrous sulfate 258
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Dwi Wiji Lestari : The Utilization Of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) As The Source Of Natural Dye In Dyeing Of Silk Batik
Figure 3. Reaction of protein (silk) petide chain with tannin
Silk fabrics can successfully dyed with natural dyes [1]. This may due to phenolic compounds of
dyestuff component that can form hydrogen bonds with the carboxyl group of protein fibers.
Furthermore, the anionic charge on the phenolic groups forms an ionic bond with cationics (amino
group) on the protein subtrate.
The pH values of the dye have a considerable effect on the dyeability of silk fabrics while using
natural dye. The effect of pH can be attributed to the correlation between dye structure and fabric.
Since the dye used is soluble in water and containing -OH groups, it would interact with the
protonated terminal amino groups of silk fibres at acidic pH via ion exchange reaction due to the
acidic character of the -OH groups. The anion of the dye has complex characters, and when it is
bound on the fibre, with ionic forces this ionic attraction would increase the dyeability of the fibre [2].
5. Conclusion
Based on the results, it can be concluded that Kudo bark was potential to be used as a source of
natural dyes for silk batik. The obtained color shades for acid condition with ferrous sulfate fixative,
acid condition with alum fixative, base condition with alum fixative and base condition with ferrous
sulfate fixative, were dark brown, light brown, beige, and reddish brown, respectively. The test of
fastness to washing towards coloration sample gave good quality on a scale of 4-5.
References
1. B.J. Agarwal, B.H. Patel. Studies on dyeing of wool with a natural dye using padding techniques. Man-made
Textiles in India 2002, Volume 45, 237-241
2. F.A. Nagia , R.S.R. EL-Mohamedy. Dyeing of wool with natural anthraquinone dyes from Fusarium
oxysporum. Dyes and Pigments. 2007, Volume 75, 550-555
3. Hidayat,J and Fatmahwaty. The Art and Sustainable Aspects of Natural Dyeing in KANAWIDA Hand
Drawn Batik. IPTEK, Journal of Proceeding Series 2014, Volume 1, 136-143
4. HunterLab Measure Color...Measure Quality. (2008). Virginia. Retrieved from
https://www.hunterlab.se/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Hunter-L-a-b.pdf
5. Lestari, D.W and Satria, Y. Pemanfaatan Kulit Kayu Angsana (Pterocarpus Indicus) Sebagai Sumber Zat
Warna Alam Pada Pewarnaan Kain Batik Sutera. Dinamika Kerajinan Dan Batik. 2017, Volume 34, No 1, 35-42
6. Nikita G. S. Verenkar and Krishnan Sellappan. Some potential natural dye yielding plants from the State of
Goa, India. Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources. 2017. Vol. 8(4) , 306-315
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 259
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Dwi Wiji Lestari : The Utilization Of Kudo Bark (Lannea coromandelica) As The Source Of Natural Dye In Dyeing Of Silk Batik
7. Ohama, P., and Tumpat, N. Textile Dye from Sappan Tree (Caesalpinia sappan Linn.) Extract. International
Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering. 2014, Vol.8, No.5, 432-434
8. Prayitno, R. E., Wijana, S., & Diyah, B. S. (2014). Pengaruh Bahan Fiksasi Terhadap Ketahanan Luntur dan
Intensitas Warna Kain Mori Batik Hasil Pewarnaan Daun Alpukat (Persea americana Mill.). Retrieved from
http://skripsitip.staff.ub.ac.id/files/2014/08/Rohmad-Eko-Prayitno.pdf
9. Ravi Upadhyay & Mahendra Singh Choudhary. Tree Barks As A Source Of Natural Dyes From The Forests
Of Madhya Pradesh. Global Journal of Bio-Science and Biotechnology. 2014, VOL.3 (1), 97-99
10. Reddy, A.K, Joy, J.M, Kumar, C.K. Lannea coromandelica: The Researcher’s Tree. Journal of Pharmacy Research.
2011,Volume 4, No. 3, 577-579
11. Yusro, F. Rendemen Ekstrak Etanol dan Uji Fitokimia Tiga Jenis Tumbuhan Obat Kalimantan Barat
(Rendement of Ethanol Extracts and Phytochemical Tests In Three of Species Medicinal Plants of West Borneo).
Jurnal TENGKAWANG. 2011, Volume 1, No 1, 29-36
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3 260
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470999
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie
Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
Luvya Nita1*, Maya Komalasari2, Atin Sumihartati3
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
3 Politeknik STTT Bandung, [email protected]
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Telp, : + 62-821-1984-2716
Abstract : Ramie fiber is a material derived from hemp bark.This fiber is still in a bundles form,
because it is bound by a layer of gum. This adhesive must be removed because the ramie fiber needs
to break down into strands of fibers before it can be spun into yarn.The degumming process aims to
remove as many gum compounds as possible from the strands of ramie fibers. In crude ramie fibers,
the gum content ranges from 25% -30%. After degumming process, the results of bleaching shows
that the content of pectin found in ramie fibers decreases. Degumming process on ramie fibers uses
pectin as enzyme that has the ability to hydrolyze pectin in ramie fibers content. The pectinase
enzyme produced by microbes was chosen because of its advantages, such as low production cost,
high production capacity, and, in a short time, easily affected productivity – by changing the pH and
temperature. In order to determine the effect of pH and temperature on the physical properties of the
fibers, the pH in the experiment ranged from 5, 6, 7 and 8, while the temperature ranged from 60 – 70
C. Based on the research that has been done, the pH and temperature have an effect on the results of
the ramie fibers degumming process namely % weight reduction, tensile strength and whitenessness
index value. The optimum condition obtained was at pH 7 using a temperature of 700C with %
reduction in weight of 8.01%, tensile strength of 18.76 g/ tex and a whitenessness index of 47.15%.
Keywords: ramie degumming; enzym pectinase; pH
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
The degumming process is the most crucial step in the processing of china grass (coarse ramie
fibers). China grass is ramie fibers that has gone through a process of decortication which is the
process of separating leaf stems from the bark.This process greatly determines the final quality of the
fibers ready for spinning. China grass (coarse ramie fibers) contains gum ingredients between 25% to
30%. This gum consists mostly of pectin and hemicellulose. Since the hemp content of pectin is quite
high, at 3% to 27%, the ramie fibers tend to be more rigid. In addition, the maximum gum residue
content requirements in textile materials of ramie fibers are 1.5-2.5%. The processing of ramie fibers
into china grass is carried out using physical and chemical processes. The results are quite good, but
this process has the disadvantage of producing waste, both solid, in the form of pieces of fibers which
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
is a by product of decortization, and liquid waste, in the form of caustic soda which is harmful to the
environment. To minimize the presence of waste in the processing of ramie into china grass,
biological processing is an appropriate alternative because it does not produce waste.
Pectinase is an enzyme used in the degradation of pectin molecules, and are divided into three
major groups, namely enzymes that deesterify (pektinaseterase), enzymes that carry out
depolymerization (hydrolase and liase), and protopectinase. Deesterification enzymes cut the ester
bond between the carboxyl group of the polyalgalactonic acid unit and the methyl group.
Depolymerization enzymes divide the glycosidic a-14 bond on pectin compounds. Whereas
protopectinase is a pectinase enzyme that dissolves protopectin{1}. Enzymes have a certain pH for
optimum activity. Changes in the pH of the solution affect the effectiveness of the active part of the
enzyme in forming a substrate enzyme complex. Low or high pH can cause a denaturation process
and result in a decrease in enzyme activity[20]. The reaction using an enzyme catalyst is influenced by
temperature. At low temperatures the reaction is slow while at higher temperatures the reaction is
faster. The increase in temperature causes the denaturation process to occur, so the active part of the
enzyme will be disrupted so that the concentration of the effectiveness of the enzyme decreases and
the reaction speed decreases. The increase in temperature before the denaturation process can
increase the reaction speed, but the increase in temperature at the start of the denaturation process
will reduce the reaction speed. Since there are two opposite effects, an optimum point will occur,
which is the right temperature for a reaction using the pectinase enzyme[15,20].
Based on this, the purpose of this study was to determine the effect of pH and temperature of the
pentinase enzyme on the ramie fibers degumming process, and to obtain the optimum value of pH
and temperature of the pectinase enzyme in the degumming process of ramie fibers on the physical
properties of fibers.
2. Experimental
2.1. Materials
Ramie fibers (China grass) from Wonosobo, Enzym Pectinase (pectate lyase) 2% owf, Acetic acid
(pH: 5,6,7),Sodium carbonate10% (pH 8), Hydrogen perokside 50%, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium
silicate, wetting agent.
2.2. Method
Exhaust Ramie fibers (China grass) with HT dyeing machine laboratory scale with rasio 1: 10 ,
oven machine, 60 ° C and 70 ° C for 120 minutes. Testing Weight Reduction, Fibers Strength and
Tensile Strength (SNI 08-1112-1989), Whitenessness Index for Fibers (SNI ISO 105-J02:2011), Scanning
Electron Microscope (SEM).
3. Results
3.1. Weight Reduction
The heavy-duty test is carried out after the ramie fibers degumming process, the test results are
as follows:
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
Table 1. % Reduction in the weight of ramie fibers with variations in pH and temperature
Variation Temperature
pH 5 600C 700C
pH 6 6.64% 7.59%
pH 7 6.84% 8.01%
pH 8 7.09% 8.15%
6.19% 7.54%
3.2. The Strength of Tensile and Stretch Fibers
Tensile strength and stretch of fibers carried out for ramie fibers after degumming and after
bleaching process.
Table 2. Tensile Strength of Ramie fibers after the degumming process(g/tex)
Variation China Grass Temperature
600C 700C
pH 5 31.16 g / tex 28.73 g / tex 24.77 g / tex
pH 6 27.11 g / tex 23.84 g / tex
pH 7 25.29 g / tex 22.44 g / tex
pH 8 28.97 g / tex 25.19 g / tex
Table 3. Tensile Fibers after the bleaching process (g/tex)
Variation China Grass Temperature
31.16 g / tex
pH 5 600C 700C
pH 6
pH 7 21.88 g / tex 20.16 g / tex
pH 8
20.95 g / tex 20.02 g / tex
19.52 g / tex 18.76 g / tex
21.59 g / tex 19.89 g / tex
3.3. Whiteness Index for Fibers
Whiteness-grade testing is done for fibers which are carried out by bleaching using hydrogen
peroxide, the test results are as follows:
Table 4. Whiteness index of ramie fibers
Variation Temperature
600C 700C
pH 5 22.24% 32.75%
pH 6 33.81% 34.51%
pH 7 46.75% 47.15%
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
pH 8 32.48% 36.40%
3.4. Scaning Electron Microscope(SEM)
Scaning Electron Microscope (SEM) is used to observe the morphology of fibers in a longitudinal
and transverse manner. SEM results are compared to ramie fibers which have not been carried out by
the degumming process and after the degumming process. The degumming process is followed by a
bleaching process which is carried out at optimum conditions for optimum pH and temperature.
(a) (b)
Figure 1. (a) Cross section of fibers before the degumming process and (b) longitudinal cross section
of fibers before the degumming process.
(a) (b)
Figure 2. (a) Cross section of fibers after the degumming process and (b) longitudinal cross section of
fibers after the degumming process.
4. Discussion
4.1 % Weight reduction
The graph of the relationship between the effect of temperature and pH on the degumming
process using the pectinase enzyme on weight reduction can be seen in Figure 3 as follows:
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
% Weight reduction 9,00% 7,59% 8,01% 8,15% 7,54%
8,00% 7,09%
7,00%
6,00% 6,64% 6,84%
5,00%
6,19%
04
5678 9
pH Condition of solution
60°C 70°C
Figure 3. Graph of the relationship between the influence of pH and temperature on the% reduction
in the weight of ramie fibers.
The Figure 3 shows that the higher the temperature of the process is, the greater the weight
reduction is, and the higher the pH of the solution is at or near neutral pH, the greater the weight
reduction will be. It happens because when the temperature is 700 C, the activity of the enzyme ride
that allows the molecules degrades more than in the temperature 600C, because enzyme activity
decreases when the temperature is 600C. Increased temperature will increase molecular kinetic
energy. Increased molecular kinetic energy also increases molecular motion so that the enzyme
integrating pectin molecules also increases. Each enzyme has an optimal temperature, which is when
the reaction rate is the fastest. The optimal increase in temperature in this study is 700C, when the
temperature of the enzyme activity also increases because it allows the most degeneration of the
pectin molecule.
Pectinase enzymes are sensitive to changes in pH and each enzyme has an optimum pH for its
activity. It can be seen from Figure 3 that the effectiveness of the most active enzyme is in pH 7
conditions observed from the greatest weight reduction both at 600C and 700C. In the condition of pH
8 the weight reduction decreases because the change in pH (acid or base) will result in the
denaturation process of the enzyme where the protein becomes inactive and does not work on the
substrate. The pH which shows the highest enzyme activity of the enzyme is considered as the
optimum pH. Most enzymes can work most effectively in the environment pH range and the
optimum pH in this study is 7.
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4.2 Testing the Strength of Tensile Ramie fibers
(a) (b)
Figure 4. (a) The effect of pH and temperature after the degumming procces, (b) the effect of pH and temperature
after the bleaching process
In Figure 4, it can be seen that the higher the temperature of the ramie fibers degumming
process, the more the tensile strength decreases and the higher the pH or close to the neutral pH, the
tensile strength also decreases. However, when the pH (acid or base) changes, the tensile strength
increases compared to pH 7. It happens because in the pH (acid or base) condition, the enzyme
protein becomes inactive and does not work on the substrate, so there is still a lot of gum in the fibers
which makes the fibers unravel between one another, and the value of strength continues to rise.
The results of the tensile strength of ramie fibers after the bleaching process can be seen in Figure
4. The result shows that the higher the temperature of the ramie fibers degumming process, the
tensile strength decreases and the higher the pH or close to neutral pH, the tensile strength decreases.
Oxidizers such as H2O2 are strong oxidizers which can cause damage to ramie fibers. The damage to
this fibers will result in a decrease in the tensile strength of the fibers and a decrease in the tensile
strength depends on how much damage the fibers has. This occurs because the free oxygen released
by H2O2 is more reactive and more unstable, so when it is done in an atmosphere of alkaline,
hydrogen bonds with the OH primary between two molecular chains of fibers in the presence of
NaOH and will be separated into OH free primary. Moreover, the compactness of fibers when carried
out withdrawal as a result the tensile strength becomes less. The lowest tensile strength is at
conditions of 700C and pH 7. This is because the gum has disappeared so hydrogen peroxide will
damage and break the cellulose chain resulting in the decrease of the value of the strength.
4.3 Whitenessness Index for Fibers
Fibers derived from natural fibers tend to have a slightly brownish yellow color, as do ramie
fibers. Whiteness of ramie fibers is a parameter that must be met, because the whiteness index is one
of the important parameters that affect the quality of ramie fibers. The bleaching process aims to
whiten ramie fibers by removing the components of the absorbing natural pigments in the fibers,
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especially the lignin functional group. The process of cooking with pectinase enzymes can only
remove impurities in the fibers but cannot whiten the fibers, so the fibers is bleached. The process of
bleaching ramie fibers uses H2O2 50%. The highest whiteness index value is at conditions of 700C and
pH 7.The effect of the degumming process using the enzyme pectinase on the whiteness index of
ramie fibers can be seen in Figure 5 as follows:
% Whitenessness Index 50,00% 47,15%
45,00% 46,75%
40,00%
35,00% 34,51% 36,40%
30,00% 33,81%
25,00% 32,75%
20,00%
32,48%
40
22,24% 7 8
56
60°C 70°C
pH Condition of solution
Figure 5.Graph the effect of the degumming process on the whiteness index of ramie fibers.
In Figure 5 it can be seen that the higher the temperature of the ramie fibers degumming process,
the greater the value of the whiteness index and the higher the pH or close to the neutral pH, the
greater the value of the whiteness index.Because the greater the weight reduction, the more dirt or
gum dissolves, so that it will facilitate the bleaching process using hydrogen peroxide in an alkaline
atmosphere that will produce active oxygen which oxidizes the existing natural pigments so that the
material becomes whitened. The hydrogen peroxide decomposition chemical reaction can be seen in
chemical reactions as follows:
H2O2+ OH H2O + H02-
HO2OH-+ On
H2O 2 H2O + O2
From the above reaction, hydrogen peroxide will break down into HO2-in an alkaline
atmosphere, oxygen is then formed which will oxidize the double bond of natural pigment into a
single, non-colored bond so that the material becomes whitened. The bleaching process is carried out
in alkaline conditions with the addition of sodium hydoxide, so if the previous cooking process is not
perfect, it is refined. Moreover, the removal of impurities becomes cleaner and the ingredients become
whiter because of the oxidation process of natural pigments. When compared with all variations, it
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
turns out that the whitening process with the highest whiteness grade value is degrading ramie fibers
with a temperature of 700C and pH 7, this is because that process of gum removal is more effective.
4.4 Scaning Electron Microscope (SEM)
Decortified ramie fibers is a hemp tree that is processed using a decortication machine to obtain
stem fibers. The degumming process reduces gum as a pretreatment before proceeding to the next
process. In ramie fibers from decortication and degumming, there are physical differences.
Degummed fibers are softer and thinner than decorticated ramie fibers. The results of the
decortication process have brown fibers, but the fibers degummed are faded brown. That shows that
gum has been removed.
Figures 1 and 2 show the surface of ramie fibers before the degumming (China grass) process
and after the degumming process with a temperature of 700C and pH 7. The Figure is the SEM micro-
photograph, and the fibers surface morphology was observed by SEM at 500 X and 1000 X for cross
section. The results of SEM photo observations are clear so that they can be analyzed. The results of
the observation show that the treatment of the degumming process affects the quality of the fibers
surface. Fibers without treatment shows that the structures of fibrils in ramie fibers are still covered
by gum and are still in bundles form. In the treatment of degumming process with a temperature of
700C and pH 7 the surface of the fibers becomes clean and smooth. Fibers can decompose easily into a
single fibers due to the reduced gum and pectin content between fibers shown in Figure 6.
(a) (b)
Figure 6. Longitudinal surface (a) Ramie fibers before the degumming process(China grass). (b) After
the degumming processwith a temperature of 700C and pH 7
5. Conclusion
Higher pH and temperature affect the % weight reduction, the tensile strength g / tex and the
whiteness index value.
The optimum condition obtained was at pH 7 using a temperature of 700C with % reduction in
weight of 8.01%, tensile strength of 18,76 g/tex and a whiteness index of 47.15%.The degumming
process of ramie fibers using the enzyme pectinase can affect the whiteness grade value of ramie
fibers.
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Luvya : The Study of pH and Temperature Effect in Ramie Fibers Degumming Process Using Pectinase Enzyme
References
1. Alkorta, I., Garbisu, C., Llama, MJ., and Serra J.L., 1998. Industrial Application of Pektin Enzymes: A Review,
Proses Biochemistry, 33: 21-28.
2. Chaplin, M.F. and Bucke. 1990. Enzyme Technology. Cambridge University Press. Cambridge, Great Britain.
3. Duanet al. 2016.Bio-deguming Technologi of jute bast by Pectobacterium sp. DCE-01. AMB Express. China.
4. Fu SY, Yu JY, Wu LL. Liu LF, Xia ZP, Liu GZ. Study on High Temperatur Degumming of Jute Fiber. Text
Technol Dev.2008; 1;73-9.
5. Guo, F., Zou, M., 2012., An Effective Degumming Enzyme from Bacillus sp.Y1 and Synergistic Action of
Hydrogen Peroxide and Protease onEnzymatic Degumming of Ramie Fibers. BioMedResearch International
Vol 2013.
6. Kartesz, John T. 2011. Boehmerianivea L. Gaudich. USDA NRCS National
Plant.http://plants.usda.gov/java/ClassificationServlet?source=profile&symbol= BONI2&display=31. [8
April 2019].
7. Kristina Simic, dkk, Application of Cellulases in The Process of Finishing.2015.
8. Ottaway,J.H, and App,D.K. 1984. Biochemistry, Fourth Edition,Bailicre Tyndall.
9. P. Soeprijono dkk., 1974. Textile Fiber : Institut Teknologi Tekstil.
10. Poedjiadi, A.1994. Dasar-Dasar Biokimia. Jakarta: Universitas Indonesia Press.
11. Stanbury, P.F and Whitaker,A. 1984. Principles of Fermentation Technology. Pergamon Press. New York.
12. Yadav, S ., Pramod, K.Y., Dinnesh, Y., and Kapil, D.S., 2008, Purification and Characterization of An Alkaline
Pectin Lyase From Aspergillus Flavus, Proses Biochemistry,43 : (547- 552).
13. SNI 0620:2015. Textiles – Test methods for extractable substances. Badan Standardisasi Nasional (BSN).
14. SNI 08-1112-1989. Test method for breaking strength and elongation of flax fibre per bundle. Badan Standardisasi
Nasional (BSN).
15. SNI ISO 105-J02:2011, Textiles-Tests for colour fastness – Part J02 : Instrumental assessment of relative whiteness.
Badan Standardisasi Nasional (BSN).
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100%
Viscosa Fabric with Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using
Variation Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring
Temperature
Maya Komalasari 1, NM.Susyami Hitariat 1* and Afifah Nurhasanah 1
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung
* Correspondence: [email protected], [email protected] Tel.: +62-815-7372-3273
Abstract : Batik is one of the riches of Indonesian heritage and characteristics. The basic batik cloth
commonly used is derived from cellulose (cotton) and from protein (silk). At present the price of silk
continues to increase along with the scarcity of raw materials. As an alternative to silk fabric, 100%
viscose fabric is chosen which has the same luster as silk and a good drape ability so that it is referred
to as superior drapery. Research on the nature of viscose fabrics to resemble silk needs to be done
holistically to improve the crease recovery-resistant properties by controlling the decrease in tensile
strength, slenderness so that it is done by refining 80 g / l dimethylol-dihydroxy-ethylene urea finish
resin and adding additives. The experiment was carried out by varying the concentration of Stiffener
50 5 g / l, 10 g / l, and 15 g / l and curring temperature of 150ºC, 160ºC and 170ºC. Evaluation for the
fabric are handling test, ability to return from crease recovery fabric, tensile strength, drape ability
and appearance resistance after washing. The test results showed the influence of the concentration of
the filler (Stiffener 50) and curring temperature. The higher the concentration of filler and curring
temperature, the higher the ability of the fabric to return from crease recovery, tensile strength and
drape value, for the value of the handling to visually decrease will be. The result of this study showed
that 100% viscose cloth can be used as an alternative to batik silk. The optimum condition based on
the handling is obtained by increasing the concentration of filler as much as 10 g / l curring
temperature 160ºC with ranking 2 (soft), the angle value returns the warp direction and weft 131 °, the
value of tensile strength is 7.6 kg and weft to 7.26 kg and drape ability of 0.29708.
Keywords: viscose; pad-dry-cure; finishing; curring
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Batik is a handicraft as a result of coloring using wax. It uses hot wax as color resistor and
canting, a pen-like tool, as writing utensil for the motifs. The process of making batik cannot be done
on all types of fabrics, only fabrics made from natural materials can be used to get maximum result.
Fabrics used for batik must have undamaged properties due to the influence of the batik process and
can be colored at cold temperatures or room temperatures because batik wax as a color resistor can
270
Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
not stand the heat temperature above 70oC. In general, fabrics that have these properties are fabrics
made from natural fibers such as cellulose fibers and protein fibers, such as cotton or silk fabrics.
Viscose rayon is a fabric made from fibers produced by cellulose regeneration. Viscose rayon
structure is the same as other cellulose fibers, with the advantage of physical properties that look
luster, and good absorption like silk.
However, this 100% viscose fabric has smaller slack value compared to silk, and is with high
crease recovery when compared to silk[1,2]. Seen from its resilience, silk cloth has a fairly good
resilience compared to the low viscose fabric resilience, so that silk wrinkle resistance is better than
viscose fabric. To find alternative raw materials for batik silk, 100% viscose cloth needs to be
improved by using an anti-wrinkle resin (Knittex FEL). Wrinkle resin (Knittex FEL) has a chemical
composition in the form of dimethyloldihidroxy-ethylene urea (DMDHEU) which is a reactant resin
which tends to form short polymers but many are cross-linked with molecular cellulose (viscose). In
refining finish resin this requires a catalyst to accelerate the rate of chemical reactions without
experiencing changes in chemical reactions. The amount of catalyst used depends on the amount of
anti-wrinkle resin which is 30% from the use of anti-wrinkle resin. The use of catalysts requires a high
acidic pH of 3.5-4.5, but, in 100% viscose fibers, the acids will break the chains of glucose molecules in
the cellulose chain so that hydrocellulose will be formed.
The hydrocellulose causes a decrease in tensile strength in 100% viscose fibers. To prevent a
decrease in tensile strength, a filler containing polyvinyl acetate (Stiffener 50) is needed. Therefore, it
is necessary to find the optimum concentration of filler by varying the filler (Stiffener 50) by 5 g / l, 10
g / l and 15 g / l so that it has good resilience without reducing the strength of the viscose fabric. The
addition of Stiffener 50, besides preventing a decrease in tensile strength, also gives a stiffer grip effect
on 100% viscose fabric so that it can make the viscose fabric straightness resemble the straightness of
silk fabrics. The handle that becomes rigid certainly makes the viscose cloth uncomfortable to wear.
On the other hand, the silk cloth has a soft grip, so a softener has to be added to make the handle on
the 100% viscose fabric resemble silk. Softener substances used are nonionic or slightly cationic in
order to obtain permanent soft properties because in general the fibers in the negatively charged
water and cationic softening agents are positively charged. This will make the softening agent react
and makes a permanent soft property of the fabric and decreases the conductivity of the electricity.
Based on the results, it is necessary to analyze the resin finish refinement process by varying the
concentration of filler (Stiffener 50) and curring temperature variations on the fabric resilience to
determine whether the filler used can improve the resilience of 100% viscose fabric without reducing
its tensile strength. To obtain optimum conditions from the process of refining viscose fabric finish
resins that resemble silk fabric, it is necessary to test the handling, tensile strength, drape ability and
repeated washing to obtain the durability of the resin on the fabric.
2. Experimental
2.1. Materials
Viskosa 100% (Dobby, Weight fabric 101,35 g/m2 , Silk Fabric 76,78 g/m2, Crease recovery resin
DMDHEU (Knittex FEL) 85 g/l, Catalis (Knittex catalyst Mo) 30 % from Knittex FEL Resin, Filler
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Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
Polivinil Asetat (Stiffener 50) 5,10,15 g/l, softener polidimetil polisiloksan (Ultratex STS-D) 30 g/l,
softener polidimetil polisiloksan (FMI) 20 g/l, polisilikat acid (Formax W) 10g/l.
2.2. Method
Padd-dry-Cure method with WPU 80%, The fabric is squeezed with padding machine then dried
with Stenter machine laboratory 100°C for 1-2 menit , and IR Curing with temperature 150°C, 160°C
dan 170°C for 2 minutes. Evaluation for the fabric as visual handling, crease recovery ability test (SNI
ISO 2313:2011), Tensile strength test (SNI 0276:2009), drape ability (SNI 08-1511-2004), appearance
after washing (SNI ISO 0298:2009).
3. Results
3.1. Handling Visual method
Visual assessment of fabric handling can be seen in Table 1. An assessment was carried out to
find out the fabric handling that resembles a silk cloth (comparative fabric) which included cloth that
was very soft, soft, soft enough, soft and not soft. Assessment is carried out by 5 observers who have
experience in the textile field. Assessment can be seen in Table 1 as follows:
Table 1. Handling visual test with Observer assessment
Variation Curring Observer assessment
Concetration
temperature 5 Total value
(PVAc) 12 3 4 value rank
5 g/l 150ºC 5 5 5 5 5 25 1
10 g/l 160ºC 5 4 5 5 5 24 1
170ºC 5 4 5 5 4 23 1
150ºC 5 4 4 3 4 20 2
160ºC 4 3 3 4 3 17 2
170ºC 2 3 2 3 3 13 3
150ºC 2 2 2 3 2 11 3
160ºC 4
15 g/l 2 1 2 21 8
170ºC 1 1 1 11 5 5
Information for Value Rank for handling test : 1: No soft, 2 less soft ; 3 plenty soft ; 4 : soft ; 5 : very soft
3.2. Crease recovery Angle (SNI ISO 2313:2011)
The average yield of the retest value of fabric crease recovery in the direction of warp and weft
after the resin finish refinement process.
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Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
Table 2. Crease Recovery angle of warf and weft before and after washing
Average ability crease recovery test (o)
Variation Curring temperature
Concetration
(PVAc)) Before washing After washing
5 g/l 150 oC 160 oC 170 oC 150 oC 160 oC 170 oC
10 g/l
15 g/l Warp Welf Warp Welf Warp Welf Warp Welf Warp Welf Warp Welf
Viskosa
fabric 114 111 125 120 126 124 112 108 119 115 124 119
128 126 131 131 134 133 125 120 127 127 128 129
140 139 143 141 147 146 135 133 139 137 142 141
90 76
Silk fabric 124,6 117,66
3.3. Tensile strength
The average of tensile strength in the direction of warp and weft after the resin finish before and
after washing.
Table 3. Tensile Strength of warf and weft before and after washing
Variation Average of tensile strength (Kg)
Concetration
(PVAc)) Curring temperature (oC)
5 Before washing After washing
10
15 Warp Welf Warp welf
Viskosa
fabric 150 160 170 150 160 170 150 160 170 150 160 170
Silk 4,8
6 6,5 7 6 6,2 6,6 4 4,5 4,53 4 4,5 6
8
7,2 7,6 7,8 7 7,26 7,67 4,6 4,8 5 5 5,46
7,83 8 8,68 7,8 8 8,3 7 7,53 8 6,5 7,5
7,66 6,66 5 4,5
8 7 6,5 6
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DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470793
Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
3.4. Drape ability
Table 4. Drape ability fabric with variation concentration and curring temperature
Variation Concetration 150 (oC) Curring temperature (oC) 170 (oC)
(PVAc) 0,24718 0,27176
0,27462 160 (oC) 0,30468
5 0,31098 0,25004 0,3378
10 0,29708
15 0,32456
Viskosa fabric 0,30923
Silk 0,50224
4. Discussion
4.1 Visual Handling method
The average calculation in Table 1, using the ranking method observer standard analysis, shows
that at a concentration of 10 g / l filler, with the curring temperature of 160 ° C, viscose fabric 100%
handling for silk, looks like same for handling silk fabric. In accordance with the results obtained in
the recipe with concentrations of anti-creasing resins, softener additives and the addition of a
(Stiffener 50) 5 g / l give a very gentle effect compared to concentrations of 10 g / l and 15 g / l, because
of the higher concentration of fillers polyvinyl acetate (Stiffener 50). It also gives the effect of rigid
properties and the higher the curring temperature of the heat gives a thick effect on the fabric (bulky).
There are 2 softening agents used in this study, namely non-ionic polydimethylsiloxane type softener
and cationic type amino-functional polysiloxane which is capable of providing permanent soft
properties. This happened because generally the fibers in the negatively charged water and cationic
softening agents are positively charged, so that the substance the softener reacts and creates a
permanent softness to the fabric. Both of these substances are silk-type softening agents which have
excellent softening, excellent soft, very good for slippery. Silicone softeners are also stable in hot
temperatures and resistant to repeated washing and good product sharing by forming a film layer on
the surface of the fabric and crosslinked. The addition of a polysilicate acid additive (Fornax W) also
gives a soft effect to the fabric and makes it easier for the fabric to be sewn and provides an anti-tear
effect on the fabric.
4.2 Crease Recovery Angle
The results of testing the fabric back from the viscose fabric tangling can be seen from a graph of
the ability to return from warp and weft tangles. Related to the graph above, the back angle of the
warp and feed folds, and it was found that the 100% viscose fabric’s, after the resin finishing process,
value at the back angle of the folds is increased compared to the viscose fabric before the finishing
process of resin finishes. In addition, the return angle of the 100% viscose fabric fold that has been
processed has exceeded the return angle value of the silk fabric fold. This shows that the viscose
fabric 100 % that has been processed resembled the nature of silk fabric. The increase in the return
angle value of the folds is due to the addition of the anti-tangle resin (Knittex FEL New).
274
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Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
Dimethyloldihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU) is a type of cyclic reactant resin. This resin is reactive
thermosetting, so it can react with itself but react more with cellulose forming crosslinking
compound. The resin compound has two active groups which, when heated, can react with the
hydroxyl group of cellulose and form a cross bond. The active groups of pracondensate will also bind
the -OH group from the adjacent cellulose molecular chain so that a cross bond between the cellulose
molecules occurs through methylene bridges or ethylene ether bridges [7], resulting in good tangle-
resistant properties. Table 2 shows that the more concentration used, the higher the value of the fabric
return angle from the folds is. Polyvinyl, as filler etat, affects the value of the degree of angle back to
the fabric. It happens because the filler enters the crevices of the fiber and the fibers become more
bonded which are prevented due to mechanical pressure given so that the fibers’ shape do not change
and becomes resistant to tangles. This can occur because the higher the polymerization temperature
concentration results in the resin entering the fiber and polymerizing so that it forms a cross bond
between the resin and the cellulose OH group. The ability of the fabric to return from this fold is
directly proportional to the greater the concentration of the filler (Stiffener 50) and the curring
temperature of the filler. After washing, the ability of the cloth back from the creasing of the warp
direction and feed after repeated washing has decreased. The decrease is due to the presence of resins
which are lost during repeated washing processes. This can occur because soap has a hydrophobic
and hydrophilic group to release resins that are on the surface of the fabric. However, it does not
show a decrease of more than 10%, so the resistance to repeated washing is still acceptable.
4.3 Tensile Strength
Basically the tensile strength of viscose fabrics is lower than the silk fabrics. Showed in Table 3,
there was a decrease in tensile strength in viscose fabrics which had been processed to refine the
finish resin which could be caused by the addition of an anti-tangle resin that requires an acidic
atmosphere. The acid in high temperature will break the chains of glucose molecules in the cellulose
chain so that hydrocellulose is formed. The hydrocellulose causes a decrease in tensile strength in
100% viscose fibers. The addition of a polyvinyl acetate (Stiffener 50) filler that functions as a
substance that fills the fiber cracks is done to increase the weight of the fabric and give a stiff effect so
that the fibers get tighter and the tensile strength gets better. This study also uses polysilicate acid
(Fornax W) tearing agent which has a polysilicate acid content of 10 g / l to prevent a drastic decrease
in tensile strength of the fabric due to the padding process of the fabric experiencing friction due to
pressure. Fabrics are worked with substances that have the ability to coat or fill the gaps between
threads. Fiber or yarn has a rough surface because of the polymer coating on its surface so that the
yarn does not easily shift. The Fornax-w anti-tear substance used has the ability to coat or fill the gaps
between threads, and also can give a soft effect on the fabric. Likewise, the higher curring
temperature gives an opportunity for acids to hydrolyze the fibers so that more and more chains of
molecules break up and cause the tensile strength to decrease. However, in the presence of fillers and
the higher use of curring temperature, the chance for fillers to enter the fibers and repair value of
fabric tensile strength gets higher.
4.4 Drape ability
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Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
Based on the graph, it can be seen that higher concentration of the polyvinyl acetate (Stiffener 50)
filler and the curring temperature of the cake gives higher value of the slenderness coefficient of the
fabric (more rigid) as showed in figure 1 :
Drape ability 0,4 0,32456 0,3378
0,31098
0,29708 0,30468
0,3 0,27462 0,25004 0,27176
0,2 0,24718
0,1
0 10 15
5
Variation Concentration Filler PVAc (g/l)
150 160 170
Figure 1. Graph of Drape ability with variation in concentration of Filler PVAc (g/l) and curring
temperature
The stiffness is obtained because the filler closes the surface of the fabric by coating. When the
layer joins the fiber and binds to produce a stiff effect and is given a hot temperature, it produces a
rigid polymer which does not change in repeated washing. However, the concentration of fillers as
much as 5 g / l and 10 g / l has not been able to increase the direct coefficient value of the viscose
blank. This is due to the use of softener substances (Ultratex STS-D and Ultratex FMI) which are quite
a lot that affect the good grip properties of the fabric. When the filler is 15 g / l, the direct coefficient
value starts to stabilize (equal to the direct value of the viscose blank) even at curring temperatures of
160ºC and 170ºC, the direct coefficient value is higher (stiffer) even though the silk coefficient has not
been close.
5. Conclusion
The test results of the physical properties of 100% viscose fabric that has been completed by
resin finish include crease recovery angle test, the tensile strength of the fabric and drape ability for
the fabric. The results of the conclusion are as follows:
1. Based on the calculation of the average value, it is found that the higher the addition of the
concentration of the filler (Stiffener 50) and the higher the curring temperature of the filler, the
higher the return properties of the folds, the tensile strength of the fabric and the slackness of
the fabric are.
2. The optimum condition is based on the fabric handle visually at the concentration of filler
(Stiffener 50) as much as 10 g / l curring temperature of 160ºC with rank of 2 (soft).
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Maya: Alternative Batik Silk on Finishing Process for 100% Viscosa Fabric With Pad-Dry-Cure Method Using Variation
Concentration (Stiffener 50) and Curring Temperature
3. The optimum condition based on the results of testing and calculation of the average value of
100% viscose physical properties test that the silk-like value is obtained at the concentration of
the filler (Stiffener 50) as much as 10 g / l curring temperature of 160 ° C with the angle value
returning to the direction 131 ° and the direction of feed 131 °, the tensile strength of the warp
direction is 7.6 kg and the feed direction is 7.26 kg and the slope value is 0.29708.
References
1. Billie J. Collier, dkk (2009), Understanding Textiles Seventh Edition, Volume 10.
2. Hitariat, N.M Susyami, Technology Textile and Garment Finishing, Polytechnic STTT Bandung, 2016.
3. Hitariat, N.M Susyami, (Textile Finishing), School of Textile Technology, 2005.
4. Shore,John,. Colorant and auxiliaries, VOL ii, Society of Dyers and Colourists, 2002.
5. Soeparman, (1977), Finishing Technology, Institut Teknologi Tekstil.
6. Soeprijono P, dkk, (1973), Textile Fiber, Institut Teknologi Tekstil.
7. W.D Schindler dan P.J.Hauser, Chemical Finishing of Textiles, Woodhead Publishing Limited,
8. Leaflet Knittex FEL New, Knittex Catalyst MO Leaflet Stiffener 50Hunstman. Leaflet Ultratex STSD, Leaflet
Ultratex FMI, Leaflet Fornax W, Huntsman
9. SNI ISO 2313:2011, Kain Tekstil – Crease Recovery Angle, Badan Standarisasi Nasional (BSN).
277
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DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470793
Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Effect of Different Solvent on Tegeran (Cudrania
javanensis) Wood Extract Dyeing Quality on Silk
Batik
Vivin Atika 1 ,Tin Kusuma Arta 1, Dwi Wiji Lestari 1, Agus Haerudin 1and Aprilia Fitriani 1
1 Balai Besar Kerajinan dan Batik - Kementerian Perindustrian
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: -
Abstract: Tegeran (Cudrania javanensis) wood has been used as natural yellow dyes source for batik
that traditionally obtained from extraction process by boiling in some amount of water. Tegeran dyes
gives deep yellow color in cotton and silk batik with good fastness properties, but rarely reported
about its result quality using different type of solvents in extracting process. Therefore, we conducted
this research to find out how much different type of solvent in extracting process giving influence on
dyeing result quality of silk batik. In this research has been carried out Tegeran wood extraction using
four different solvent such as alcohol 70%, aquadest, acid/acetic acid solution pH 2.5 and
alkaline/sodium hydroxide solution pH 12. The extract then used to dye batiked silk fabric. Tegeran
wood extract coloring result in silk batik giving range colour from yellow to deep cream. The color
strength values obtained were batik fabric dyed with Tegeran wood extract from alcohol 70% solvent
0.49, acid 0.57, aquadest 1.15, and alkaline 1.78. From color difference testing results, we obtain value
of batik fabric colored with tegeran wood extract from alcohol 70 % L*=79.34, a*=6.37, b*=53.51;
aquadest L*=87.91, a*=-0.69, b*=34.53; alkaline L*=76.06, a*=9.41, b*=14.76; and acid L*=77.70, a*=8.21,
b*=36.72. The best solvent is sodium hydroxide pH 12 that brought deepest brown color and alcohol
70% that brought the lowest color degradation.
Keywords: Tegeran; batik; solvent; extraction
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
Tegeran wood has been used as natural yellow dyes source for batik along with other
vegetable dyes Ceriopstagal (Perr.) C.B. Robinson (Soga tingi) bark and Peltophorumpterocarpum
(DC.) Backer ex K. Heyne (Soga jambal) wood to form soga color (Maimunah, 2012; Anastasia & Rum,
2014). Given latin name of Cudrania javanensis Trécul/Maclura javanica Blume/Cudrania
cochinchinensis (Lour.)/Maclura cochinchinensis, and local name kayu kuning, tegeran spread out
through South Asia (Himalayan Mountain, Nepal, India), East Asia (Japan), and South East Asia
(Malayan Peninsula, Papua Island, Bismarck Island, New Caledonia, until East Australia)
(SangatRoemantyo, 1991).
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Vivin Atika : Effect of Different Solvent on Tegeran (Cudrania javanensis) Wood Extract Dyeing Quality on Silk Batik
Tegeran wood as natural dyes traditionally obtained from extraction process by heating it in
some amount of water. The heating was carried out until yellowish dark solution was obtained and
ready to be used for dyeing batik. The color result in cotton and silk is yellow gold until yellow
brown. Tegeran wood has been reported to contain flavonoid, alkaloid,steroid, saponin, also tannin
(Swargiary & Ronghang, 2013). Based on Kongkiatpaiboon, et al. (2016) and Septhum, et al. (2007)
report, the main flavonoid in Tegeran is morin.
Batik is handicraft made by resist dyeing using hot batik wax as resistant written by
chanthing or stamp (Anonim, 2014). Natural dyes batik coloring process include fabric pretreatment,
fabric dyeing and dyeing finishing (post mordant and batik wax removal). Fabric pretreatment is
mordanting using metal salt alumuniumsulphate/tawas. Fabric mordanting step is carried out to give
bridge between the dye and fabric, so that it can bond finely and increasing the color fastness
properties (Vankar, 2000). After pre mordanting, the fabric is ready to be dyed. The dyeing process
then finished with post mordanting using metal salt mordant and batik wax removal. Batik wax
removed from the dyed batik fabric by soaking it in boiled water for certain time until all wax
removed.
Tegeran wood as natural batik dye rarely used as single dye because its poor color fastness in
hot water during batik wax removing process (Atika & Haerudin, 2013). In our previous research,
tegeran wood was extracted using water solvent with temperature variation. The solution was acid
and its dyeing fabric results’s final color fastness properties was good (Atika & Salma, 2018). Tegeran
natural dyes has also been studied for silk yarn dyeing with alum mordanting (Septhum, et al., 2007)
and as nano emultion using tween 80 emulsifier for batik dyes (Herawati, dkk., 2012). All research
giving good result for color fastness properties, but rarely reported about different solvent type for
extracting process. Therefore, we conducted this research to find out how this is related with color
shade result for batik dyeing.
2. Materials and Methods
The research were conducted by experimental method, with variation of extraction solvents
such as ethanol 70%, acid solution/hydrochloric acid solution pH 2.5, aquadest, and alkaline
solution/sodium hydroxide solution pH 12). The material used in this research were Tegeran wood
(Cudrania javanensis) from Sulawesi, silk batiked fabric, aquadest, ethanol 70%, hydrochloric acid,
sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, alumunium sulphate, tapioca flour, and neutral detergent. The
equipment used were extractor basin/waterbath, dyeing bath, electronic weight balance, batik wax
removal set, and gas stove. The research were divided into 4 steps: dyes extraction, fabric dyeing
(dyeing, post mordant, batik wax removal), batik fabric color testing, and data analysis.
Dyes extraction
Tegeran wood chips were boiled at 100ºC, each in acid solution, aquadest and alkaline
solution. It was also macerated in ethanol 70% solution for 96 hours. Acid solution made by adding
hydrochloric acid in aquadest until it reached pH 2.5, while alkaline solution made by adding sodium
hydroxide in aquadest until it reached pH 12.The extract were filtered and the filtrate kept in closed
bin.
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Fabric dyeing
Silk batiked fabric were dyed using four dyeing solution under room temperature. The
dyeing was carried out by soaking for 15 minutes then drying open air (not under direct sunlight).
This process was repeated again until 6 times.
Post mordant usually called fixation using alumunium sulphate solution. Alumunium
sulphate solution was made by boiling 70 g/l alumunium sulphate in water. The solution then let
precipitate for one night before used for post mordant. Each fabric was soaked in the solution for 5
minutes, then dried in open air and wash thoroughly by clean water.
The post mordanted dyed batik fabrics were having wax removal process to clean it from
wax. The batiked dyed fabrics were boiled in alkaline solution containing 10 g/l sodium carbonate,
until all wax completely removed from the fabrics. The batik fabrics then dried open air and ready for
testing. We called this with “batik fabric” term.
Fabric testing
Color strength and color difference measurement of samples is conducted using ultraviolet
visible spectrophotometer. This measurement gives value of reflectance (R) that then converted
empirically into color strength value (K/S) using Kubelka-Munk equation with assumption that there
were no other factor interfered. K/S can be considered as the amount of dyes absorbed into the fabric
(Kuntari & Barkasih, 2005).
(1 − )
= 2
Where:
K = Light absorption coefficient
S = Light diffraction coefficient
R = Reflectance
Color difference measurement using CIELAB color space, based on lightness, chrome and
hue. This three dimensional color space consist of three axis such as L* (lightness), a* (green – red),
and b* (blue – yellow) (CIE, 1976). L* value is 0 = black and 100 = white, a* value is + = red and - =
green, while b* value + means yellow and – means blue. Color difference can be obtained using
following equation (Larrain, Schaefer, Reed, 2008).
= + +
Where: 280
ΔE = Color difference
L = Lightness
a = Redness - Greenness
b = Yellowness - Blueness
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Vivin Atika : Effect of Different Solvent on Tegeran (Cudrania javanensis) Wood Extract Dyeing Quality on Silk Batik
3. Results
The silk batiked fabrics were dyed and the color shades results were gold, yellow, until
brown, as seen in Table 1. Silk batik color testing results presented in Table 2 and Table 3.
Table 1. Tegeran wood extract dyeing result on silk batik
Samples Before Pelorodan After Pelorodan
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from alcohol 70%
extraction
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from aquadest extraction
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from alkaline extraction
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from acid extraction
Table 2. Color strength testing results of samples before pelorodan process
Samples %R K/S
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from alcohol 70% extraction 38.33 0.49
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from aquadest extraction 25.10 1.12
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from alkaline extraction 18.58 1.78
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from acid extraction 35,97 0.57
Un-dyed silk 98.30 0.00
Table 3. Color difference testing results of samples
Samples Before Lorod After Lorod ΔE*Lab
L* a* b* L* a* b* 16.50
33.31
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from 72.42 9.08 65.09 70.46 11.00 48.82 18.95
alcohol 70% extraction
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from 56.89 17.62 57.24 83.44 2.27 44.23
aquadest extraction
Silk batik dyed with tegeran from 61.05 17.29 51.98 69.79 15.14 35.32
alkaline extraction
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Silk batik dyed with tegeran from acid 57.13 17.34 49.77 70.73 12.59 19.68 33.35
extraction
4. Discussion
From Table 1, we can see the dyeing result with different extract solution from Tegeran wood.
Dyed fabrics colors varies from gold to brown, while batik fabrics colors from yellow, pinkish brown
to light brown.
Each solvent brought out different colors in the silk batik fabric. Tegeran wood has been
reported contain flavonoids the source of yellow color, and tannin that can give brown color
(Swargiary and Ronghang, 2013).
The color strength values range from 0.49 – 1.78. Batik fabric dyed with Tegeran wood extract
from alcohol solution gave the lowest K/S value 0.49, followed by batik fabric dyed with Tegeran
extracted from hydrochloric acid solution 0.57, batik fabric dyed with Tegeran extracted from
aquadest 1.15, then the highest is batik fabric dyed with Tegeran extracted from sodium hydroxide
solution 1.78.
Reflectance is defined as the ratio of the incident light to the reflected light or transmitted
light (Clarke, 2006). Reflectance were converted into K/S color strength value. The higher the K/S
value means more dyes were absorbed by the fabric. The deepest color were batik fabric dyed with
Tegeran wood extracted in alkaline solution, followed by aquadest, acid and alcohol. Batik fabric
dyed with aqueous solvent extraction has absorbed more color than alcohol solvent. In aqueous
solvent extract (aquadest, alkaline, acid), tannin were dominating the dyes because it tend to dissolve
in water in relatively high temperature, ie 100ºC (Atika & Salma, 2017). Also there has been reported
that alkaline solution increase the extractability of phenolic compounds of Tegeran wood (Sakagami,
et al, 2013). Morin, the source of yellow pigment, were reported extracted by alcohol from Tegeran
heartwood (Kongkiatpaiboon, 2017). Therefore, batik fabric dyed with Tegeran wood extract with
alcohol 70% gave yellow gold color.
From color difference testing results, we obtain value of batik fabric colored with Tegeran
wood extract from alcohol 70% solvent L*=79.34, a*=6.37, b*=53.51; aquadest L*=87.91, a*=-0.69,
b*=34.53; alkaline L*=76.06, a*=9.41, b*=14.76; and acid L*=77.70, a*=8.21, b*=36.72. From the lightness
values, batik fabric dyed with Tegeran wood extract from aquadest solvent gave the highest, followed
by alcohol 70%, acid, alkaline. The highest redness value was obtained by batik fabric dyed with
tegeran extract with alkaline solvent, followed by acid and alcohol 70%, except for aquadest solvent
extraction dyeing result gave greener shade color.
The ΔE value range from 16.50 – 33.35. The less ΔE value means the least color degradation.
The lowest ΔE obtained by dyed sample with extracted Tegeran wood dye with alcohol 70%,
followed by alkaline, aquadest and acid solvents. It means the alcohol dyebath treatments give the
lowest color degradation, followed by alkaline, aquadest and acid dyebath.
According to Septhum, et al. (2009), color absorbed by alum with pre-mordanted depending
on solution acidity, initial concentration and dyeing bath temperature. Related to batik dyeing
process, color quality depend also with batik wax removal, fabric type and mordant type (Atika&
Salma, 2017). The initial concentration of dyes depending on chromospheres content and extraction
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condition. Extraction using alcohol 70% gave less color intensity but less color degradation. It may
because alcohol 70% can make the dyes remain in the fabric during wax removal process. Water was
less maintain the fabric color, because of the higher polarity that may broke the weaker bond between
the dyes and the fabric. This become excess dyes that mended in fabric surface (Avinc, et al., 2013)
and will be expelled during wax removal process.
5. Conclusions
Tegeran wood extract coloring result in silk batik giving range color from yellow to deep
cream. The best solvent is alkaline dyebath solution that brought deepest brown color and alcohol
70% dyebath that brought the lowest color degradation.
6. Author Contributions
All the author have the same contribution in writing this paper.
Acknowledgements
This research was funded by Ministry of Research, Technology and Higher Education
through Center of Excellent Center of Handicraft and Batik Ministry of Industry. We express our
gratitude and convey the highest appreciation to all parties involved in helping this research.
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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference
(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
Sisal Fiber Of Agave H11648 as A Potential Raw
Material For Eco-Friendly Textile
Arini Hidayati Jamil 1, Marjani 2, and Titiek Yulianti1
1 Indonesian Sweetener and Fiber Crops Research Institute
* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: -
Abstract : Sisal (Agave sisalana) is one of the most interesting fiber plants. Sisal fiber has good quality
due to its physical characteristics such as shiny yellowish white color, strong, saltwater resistant, and
eco-friendly raw material. The sisal fiber is biodegradable. In addition, the plant has also an
important rule in improving land productivity. It contains 63.78% of alpha cellulose, 94.35% of
holocellulose, 20.91% of pentosan and 4.76% of lignin. Usually, sisal fiber is used for carpet, mat,
rope, bag and other handicrafts. With some treatments, sisal fabric quality can be improved to
produce good quality textile. H 11468, a hybrid of A. amaniensis Trel. and Nowell
× A. angustifolia Haw x A. amaniensis, is one of the most popular Agave fiber plants in the world. In
Indonesia, it has been grown in an area of 800 ha of West and East Nusa Tenggara provinces, with
total production approximately 5.57-ton dry fiber/year in the fourth year of planting. The bundle
strength of the fiber achieved 31.36 g/tex. The individual fiber has intermediate length : width ratio
(184.35). Sisal fiber has tenacity 40-49 cN/tex, strain 2-3%, initial modulus 25-26 N/tex, and tensile
strength 510-635 N/mm2. The fiber can be used for clothing, domestic use, geotextile, and others
coarser material.
Keywords: H 11468, Sisal fiber, textile, ecofriendly
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
1. Introduction
As a commitment to the environment, using natural resources to replace non-biodegradable
material become the best choice of some industries. Indonesia is the top 5 of textile producing
countries. Fashion sector is raising very fast and requiring more textile materials. Natural fiber
resources from animals as well as plants have more advantages because of their environment-friendly
sources, biodegradable, and has specific characters. The sisal plants grown in arid and semi-arid
could improve land productivity.
Plant fibers are grouped according to plant parts where the fiber comes from e.i. bast fiber, leaf
fiber, and fruit fiber. Bast fiber comprises of kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus), ramie (Boehmeria nivea),
roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), jute (C. olitorius and C. capsularis), linum (Linum usitatissimum). Coir
285
Arini Hidayati Jamil : Sisal Fiber Of Agave H11648 as A Potential Raw Material For Eco-Friendly Textile
(Cocos nucifera), cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) and kapok (Ceiba petandra) are grouped as fruit or
seed fiber. Leaf fiber covers Agave (Agave sisalana and A. cantala), abaca (Musa textillis), etc.
One of promising fiber plant that can be developed in Indonesia is agave. There are several
agave species developed around the world, but only two species of Agave developed in Indonesia
e.i. A. sisalana (sisal) and A. cantala. Agave fiber has been used for long time by Indonesian for ropes,
bag, geotextile, handy-craft, fishing nets, etc (Santoso, 2009). Agave has good physical charactersas
fiber, ie: the color is shiny white, strong, salt water resistant, recyclable, and eco-friendly.
In 2015, PT Sumbawa Agro Sisal introduced H 11648 from Guangdong, China, and then The
Indonesian Sweetener and Fiber Crops Research Institute (Balittas) has released it in 2017. H 11468 is
a hybrid of A. amaniensis Trel. and Nowell × A. angustifolia Haw x A. amaniensis from East Africa and
has been spread around the world due to its excellent fibre and production.
Fiber from Dry Climate
West and East Nusa Tenggara Provinces have a dry climate and semi-arid region. Usually,
Sumbawa farmers planted corn or secondary crops once a year during rainy season with low
productivity due to water inadequacy. Dry seasonis not suitable for food crops because there is no
water irrigation. However, sisal plant can grow well in these conditions where other plants hard to
grow (Gintare, 2018) since sisal plant is a xerophytic perennial herb, monocarpic and robust plant.
Sisal is a strong tropical plant that requires full sunlight and moderate relative humidity. The plant
uses Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM) pathway, where CO2 fixation is able to conduct at night
and closed stomata during photosynthesize at the day to minimize transpiration. It makes sisal is
able to survive at extreme heat and drought conditions. Therefore sisal widely developed in arid and
semi-arid regions (Dahal et al., 2003). Sisal plant tends to grow better on limestone land that loaded
with bases, especially Calcium(Dahal et al., 2003; Santoso, 2009). Furthermore, during cultivation
process, sisal only requires little treatment (Santoso, 2009). Other advantages of planting sisal are
their extensive roots of the plant could reduce soil erosion. Sisal could also used as a border to protect
crop from predators since its leaf arrangement. During fiber process, leaf extraction produces organic
waste for compost or organic matter to fertilize soil andfor biogas (Hulle et al., 2015) and natural
fungicide.Xie et al. (2016) reported that Lasiodiplodia theobromae the cause of mulberry root rot could
be controlled significantly (73.1%) by fresh leaf juice of H 11648.
According to Berger (1969) and Tohir (1967), in the past between 1950-60’s agave plantation has
been developed in East Java (Ijen dan Kelud volcano), Middle Java (Merapi volcano area), West Java
(Pamanukan and Ciasem), and North Sumatera (Siantar and Bilah). Today, most of A. cantala grown
on Madura Island, while A. sisalana developed in South Malang, Jember, and South Blitar (Santoso,
2009). Since 2015, the new introduction hybrid of sisal, H 11648, has been developed in an area of 800
ha, mainly on Sumbawa Island, West Nusa Tenggara and some areas ofEast Nusa Tenggara. The
hybrid is well adapted on Sumbawa Island, grows faster and produces higher yield than in China,
therefore it could increase land productivity on Sumbawa Island (Setyo-Budi et al., 2017).
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Agave H 11648: Plant and Fiber Characteristics
Plant Characters
Agave H 11648 (Hybrid 11648) is a hybrid plant from backcrossing of (A. amaniensis × A.
angustifolia) × A. amaniensis (Dahal et al., 2003; Huang et al., 2019). The hybrid is widely planted in
many countries. Agave H 11648 has lanceolate bluish-green leaves. The potential length of the leaves
reached 120-150 cm and the potential width ranged from 11 to 15 cm. The plant has a dark brown
spike at the tip of each leaf and without spines on the leaves margin. The leaves shrouded in a thin
layer of wax.During its life cycle of 8 to 13 years, the plant produces 560-650 leaves. Each leaf has a
maximum weight of 520 g with fiber content 4-5.3%. H 11648 produces 4.73 – 5.96ton dry
fiber/year/ha depends on the environmental conditions, farming management, and age of the plant.
The first harvest was carried out at 36 – 48 months after planting. On Sumbawa Island, H 11648
produces 5.57-ton dry fiber/year/ha in the fourth year of planting. The variety adapts to various
environmental conditions. Nevertheless, H 11648 is susceptible to zebra diseasecaused by
Phytophthora (Setyo-Budi et al., 2017). The life cycle is longer, the leaf and fiber production of Agave H
11648 are higher than A. sisalana (Dahal et al., 2003). Committe on Commodity Problems (2013) of
FAO reported that Agave sisalana could produce 12.5 tonnes of dry fiber/hectare while H 11648
produced 17.6 tonnes of dry fiber/hectare in 8 year sisal life cycle in Tanzania.
Figure 1. Appearance of sisal H 11648 Figure 2. H 11648 fiber
plant.
Source : Setyo-Budi et al. (2017)
Chemical Composition of Fiber
Main chemical components of plant fibers are cellulose, hemicellulose, and pectin with ratio are
widely different between plant types and species (McDougall et al., in Brink et al., 2003). According to
Magaton et al. (2015),in Brazil, fiber of Agave H 11648 has similar chemical composition to Agave
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sisalana. However, chemical composition of fiber ofA. sisalana grown in Indonesia different to this
grown in Brazil (Table 1).
Table 1. Chemical composition (%) of A. sisalana and H 11648 fibers
Agave Celluloce/ Pentosan/ Holo- Lignin Extract- Fiber Reference
sisalana Glucans Xylan cellose Klason ives origin (Jamil et al.,
sisalana 2018)
H 11468 63.78 20.91 94.35 4.76 0.18 Indonesia
(Magaton et
61.40 13.80 10.70 2.43 Brazil al., 2015)
60.20 14.10 12.00 3.34 Brazil
Morphology of Fiber
Morphological properties of the fiber will determine compatibility of fiber use. For textile
material,the most important factor is the ratio of length and width of the individual fiber cell. For
example, clothing requires length and width ratio more than 1000, which will be fulfilled by ramie,
flax, and cotton fibers. while jute, kenaf, roselle, abaka, and sisal fibers are less than 1000 and
considered as intermediate length: width ratio, thus they are usually used for coarse textile. The
surface and the cell tips of sisal fiber are uniforms (Brink et al., 2003).
Table 2. Fiber morphology of H 11648
Parameters Value
Length (mm) 2.43
Width (µm) 13.18
Length : width ratio 184.35
Source : Unpublished data
Physical Properties of Fiber
H 11648 fiber has a shiny yellowish white color. The fiber bundle strength reached 31.36 ± 1.85
g/tex (Setyo-Budi et al., 2017). There is a lack of information about the properties of H 11648 fiber. For
sisal fiber physical properties, the tenacity reaches 40-49 cN/tex, strain 2-3%, initial modulus 25-26
N/tex (Hulle et al., 2015). According to Weindling in Brink et al. (2003) tensile strength of fiber strands
and durability in leaf fiber group, sisal fiber are the second after abaca fiber and better than New
Zealand flax and Mauritius hemp. Tensile strength of sisal achieves 510-635 N/mm2 (Eichhorn et al. In
Brink et al., 2003). However physical properties can be widely different within species even between
fiber strands in the same plant. Moisture content, temperature, and test methods also affecthe value of
physical properties (Brink et al., 2003). Moreover, Ekundayo and Adejuyigbe, (2019) explained that
sisal fiber is biodegradable, does not trap dust and moisture, can be dyed, sound absorber, and fire
resistant with natural borax treatment.
Sisal Fiber as A Textile Material
Before, plants fiber used as a raw material for textile, it passes through several steps including
cultivation, harvestingleaves, fiber extraction, fiber hackling and weaving (Li et al., 2008). Sisal fiber is
extracted from sisal leaves using a decorticator machine. The fibers are spinning into yarn or thread
288
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DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470929
Arini Hidayati Jamil : Sisal Fiber Of Agave H11648 as A Potential Raw Material For Eco-Friendly Textile
and then knitting or woven to get fabric. Clothing, domestic use, and coarser material such as burlap
are included in fabrics (Brink et al., 2003). Meanwhile, FAO (2019) wrote that the main use of sisal
fiber in textile is for buffing clothbecause sisal fiber has enough strength to polish steel without
scratch it. Sisal fiber also used as geotextile in road constructions, reclamation of land and
stabilization of slopes (Teresinha, 2017). Sisal yarn has a potential function as a flame retardant and
the ability was increase up to 1.5 times aftermethylol dimethylphosphonopropionamide (MDPA)
application (Shukla et al., 2017).
According to Methacanon et al. (2010) research, sisal fiber has good potential as raw material
for woven limited life geotextiles (LLGs) for land strengthening. Dry sisal and roselle fiber have a
significantly higher tensile strength than that of water hyacinth and reed fiber. Furthermore, the
tensile strength and elongation of them are increased when the fibers are wet. The researchers also
investigated the moisture absorption, thermal property, and durability of the fibers after accelerating
weather exposed.
Figure 3. Fabrics made from sisal fiber (Manyam and Alapati, 2018)
Manyam and Alapati (2018)have successfully increased the flexibility of sisal fiber for better
yarn spinning with an eco-friendly method. The yarn weaved to form a fabric. The sisal fiber treated
with an enzyme to make it smoother, brighter, slightly more flexible, drapability, and suitability of
the fabric.
References
1. Berger, J., 1969. The World Major Fibre Crops, their cultivation and manuring. Centre d’Etude del’Azote,
Zurich.
2. Brink, M., Escobin, R.P., van der Vosen, H.A.M., 2003. Introduction, in: Plant Resources of South-East Asia
No 17. Fiber Plants. Backhyus Publishers, Leiden, the Netherlands, Leiden, pp. 15–55.
3. Committe on Commodity Problems, 2013. Potential Constraints to Smallholder Integration Into The
Developing Sisal Value Chain in Tanzania. Negombo, Sri Lanka.
4. Dahal, K.R., Utomo, B.I., Brink, M., 2003. Agave sisalana Perrine, in: Plant Resources of South-East Asia
No 17. Fiber Plants. pp. 68–75.
5. Ekundayo, G., Adejuyigbe, S., 2019. Reviewing the Development of Natural Fiber Polymer Composite : A
Case Study of Sisal and Jute. Am. J. Mech. Mater. Eng. 3, 1–10.
https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ajmme.20190301.11
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ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3
DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470929
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