RASHID -ITC Proceeding Book

Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

Figure 1. a) Equisetum hyemale; b) Echinodorus palaefolius

2. Experimental
2.1. Materials

The aquatic plants used in this study are Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius. The plants
were collected from local fresh water. Each plant was around 5 months of age at the beginning of the
experiment and consisted of 10 to 15 stems. The collected plants were washed and initially
acclimatized by placing them in a small plastic box filled with normal tap water for 15 days to achieve
vigorous and dense root system to be used further in the experiments. In addition, the boxes were
also filled with sand, gravel and activated carbon with 10 cm in height for each layer as illustrated in
Figure 2. The water was maintained at room temperature.

Figure 2. Phytoremediation Reactor 189

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DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.3470905

Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

The batik industry effluent samples were collected from the wastewater treatment plant of
Center for Handicraft and Batik in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. The WWTP consists of several units: wax
removal, sedimentation, coagulation-flocculation, anaerobic filter, and adsorption. The samples used
in this study were taken from four sampling points: the outlet of wax removal tank (P1), outlet of
sedimentation tank (P2), outlet of coagulation-flocculation tank (P3) and outlet of the WWTP (P4).
The sampling points are illustrated in Figure 3.

P1
P3 P2

P4

Figure 3. Layout of WWTP and the sampling points
The samples were taken using clean sealed bottles and then transported to Environmental
Laboratory for analysis of initial COD and BOD.

2.2. Phytoremediation Experiments
For the experiments, the aquatic plants were introduced after acclimatization into the four types

of effluents in the experimental tanks and examined for 14 days of period. The samples from each
tank were taken and analyzed every 7 days.

The concentrations of COD and BOD in the batik effluents before and after phytoremediation
were determined as per the standard procedure stipulated by Indonesian National Standards. Closed
reflux system was used to determine COD, and Wrinkler method was employed to examine BOD.
The percent removals of those parameters by aquatic plants were calculated by using the following
formula:

−
% = = ∙ 100%

In which C1 is the concentration of the parameter before treatment and C2 is the concentration of
the parameter after treatment.

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

3. Results
3.1. Effluents Characteristics

The effluent from batik industry was collected and analyzed for BOD and COD parameters.
Results are shown in Table 1. Based on the analysis, the BOD (285 mg/L) and COD (704.4 mg/L)
values at the outlet of wax removal tank (P1) exceed the permissible limit based on Local Regulation
No. 7 of 2016, namely 50 mg/L for BOD and 100 mg/L for COD. After being treated in sedimentation
tank (P2), BOD and COD decreased significantly, reaching below the standards.

However in the outlet of coagulation-flocculation tank (P3) the two parameters increased sharply
into 180 mg/L for BOD and 404 mg/L for COD. The anaerobic filter and activated carbon adsorption
reduced the BOD reaching 26 mg/L and COD 66.2 mg/L.

Table 1. Initial concentration of batik effluents

Effluents BOD (mg/l) COD (mg/l)

P1 285 704.4

P2 180 404
P3 29.2 83.9
P4 26 66.2

Dyeing and printing processes produce effluent containing toxic organic compounds such as
phenols, heavy metals like copper, chromium and also impart highly concentrated color.

Batik effluents containing mixture of dyes generally have high BOD [16]. High concentration
BOD could be explained by the fact that desiring step in textile process contributes 50 % increase of
BOD load. Biodegradable organic compounds like synthetic and natural polymers in water bodies
cause deficiency of dissolved oxygen and found to have a significant impact on aquatic life [16].

3.2. COD Removal Efficiency

Chemical oxygen demand (COD) is the overall oxygen concentration utilized to chemically
oxidize all of the organic compounds in an effluent sample [17]. The samples were taken on the
seventh and fourteenth day. The results of the COD analysis for each reactor are shown in Figure 4
and Figure 5.

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

100 85.55 86.97
80 64.32 85.76
60
COD (mg/L) 40 10.14 -3.09 P1
20 7 -8.31 14 P2
P3
00 Time (days) -30.06 P4
-20 0
-40

Figure 4. COD Removal Efficiency by a) Equisetum hyemale

COD (mg/L) 100 85.90 88.09
80 81.73 88.23
60
40 30.63 22.05 P1
20 P2
20.24 12.39 P3
00 7 14 P4
0 Time (days)

Figure 4. COD Removal Efficiency by Echinodorus palaefolius

3.3. BOD Removal Efficiency

BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand) is the concentration of oxygen consumed during the
biodegradation of organic compounds in the wastewater [17]. BOD analysis is usually conducted to
determine the severity of pollution from domestic and industrial effluents into water bodies [18]. The
samples were taken from the reactors on the seventh and fourteenth day of the experiments. The
results were illustrated in Figure 5 and Figure 6.

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

100 87.47 88.53
80 72.22 86.94
60
BOD (mg/L) 40 10.96 -2.74 P1
20 7 -1114.55 P2
-25 P3
00 P4
-20 0 Time (days)
-40

Figure 5. BOD Removal Efficiency by Equisetum hyemale

100 87.12 89.96
80 83.89 90.22
60
BOD (mg/L) 40 31.51 19.23 P1
20 3.85 P2
00 7 14 P3
-20 0 -26.71 P4
-40 Time (days)

Figure 6. BOD Removal Efficiency by Echinodorus palaefolius

4. Conclusion

The phytoremediation experiments were conducted in batch system. The aquatic plants were
acclimated before being used in the experiments to help them adapt to the effluents condition.

4.1. COD Analysis

During the first seven days, in the reactors employing E. hyemale as phytoremediation agent, the
removal efficiencies increased for samples from P1 (85.55%), P2 (64.32%), P3 (10.13%), and decreased
for sample from P4 (-8.3%). On the fourteenth day the efficiencies slightly increased for P1 (86.96%)
and P2 (85.75%), and decreased for P3 (-3%) and P4 (-30%). Our results for P1 are in agreement with a

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

study of COD removal from laundry effluents using Equisetum hyemale where the efficiency ranged
between 74–95% for 876.92 mg/l of initial COD value [12].

For the reactors using Echinodorus palaefolius, similar trend was observed. The highest efficiency
was obtained in samples from P1, followed by P2, P3 and P4 respectively. On day seven the removal
efficiencies increased for all samples, namely: P1 (85.90%), P2 (81.72%), P3 (30.63%), and P4 (20.24%).
On day fourteen the COD removal efficiencies slightly increased for P1 (88.09%) and P2 (88.23%), and
decreased for P3 (22.05%) and P4 (12.39%).

The most probable COD removal mechanism was by uptaking the organic matters into the roots
[18]. Apart from that, the media could produce a bio-film which could increase the removal of organic
matters [12]. The degradation by microbial processes also occurred in the roots and rhizomes [19].
The COD removal was also attributed to the filtration by the sand, gravel and activated carbon media
[12]. The results show that for P1, P2 and P3 in Equisetum hyemale reactor and all Echinodorus
palaefolius reactors the optimal process occurred during the first period. It indicates that the microbes
on the roots zone have grown during the acclimatization period; therefore they were already reached
the optimal numbers and growth when being introduced to the effluents.

During the next seven days, microbial growth has slowed down thus the total removal efficiency
either slightly increased or decreased. For P3 in Equisetum hyemale reactor the removal efficiency
was negative which means the COD concentration has increased from the initial condition. Samples
from P3 have been treated in sedimentation and coagulation-floculation tank, therefore the COD
loading (83.9 mg/L) was relatively low. After seven days, the nutrients from organic matters have
decreased further and the microbes has reached stationary phase where the cell growth rate balanced
the death rates and the bio catalytic activities gradually decreased [20]. Those dead cells contributed
to the increase of the COD. The decrease of efficiency after 14 days might be also due to the clogging
of the media which inhibited the filtration processes.

The COD concentration in the effluent from P4 has increased on the seventh day and increased
further on the fourteenth day. The COD concentration has been very low since the beginning of the
process. This lack of nutrients could not support the microbial growth so it entered the stationary
phase and eventually the death phase where the dead cells might create toxicity and deactivate
remaining cells [20].

The highest efficiency of Equisetum hyemale was achieved in the COD removal process of
samples from the outlet of wax removal tank (P1) after 14 days which reached 86.96 %, while the
removal efficiency of Echinodorus palaefolius was achieved in COD removal from effluent of outlet
of sedimentation tank (P2) after 14 days which was 88.23%.

4.2. BOD Analysis

During the first seven days, in the reactors employing Equisetum hyemale as phytoremediation
agent, the removal efficiencies increased for samples from P1 (87.47%), P2 (72.22%), P3 (10.96%), and
decreased for sample from P4 (-25%). On the fourteenth day the efficiencies slightly increased for P1
(88.53%) and P2 (86.94%), and decreased for P3 (-2.74%) and P4 (-11.54%).

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

On the seventh day the BOD removal efficiency in Echinodorus palaefolius reactors significantly
increased for P1 (87.47%) and P2 (72.22%), slightly increased for P3 (10.95%) and decreased for P4 (-
25%). On day fourteen the COD removal efficiencies slightly increased for P1 (89.96%), P2 (90.22%)
and P4 (19.23%), and decreased for P3 (-26.71%) This trend was similar to that of COD in the same
reactor.

BOD removal occurred due to the microbial activities to break down biodegradable organics in
the effluents, resulting in the lower BOD concentration. Organics were also removed by physical
settling, and most of the organic matter was enmeshed within the sludge and settled within the media
zone [21]. In phytoremediation the degradation of pollutants is the results of synergy between
microbes and the plants in utilizing the organics in the effluents [22].

Almost similar to observed results for the COD removal, for effluents with lower organics loads
the removal efficiencies were lower. The lack of nutrients provided by the effluents caused the slow
growth rate of microbes attached on the roots of the plants. The highest efficiency of Equisetum
hyemale was achieved in the BOD removal process of samples from the outlet of wax removal tank
(P1) after 14 days which reached 88.53%, while the removal efficiency of Echinodorus palaefolius was
achieved in COD removal from effluent of outlet of sedimentation tank (P2) after 14 days which was
90.22%.

Generally, the removal efficiencies of Echinodorus palaefolius are higher than Equisetum
hyemale for all effluents. BOD and COD removal mechanisms are also affected by plants activities.
Echinodorus palaefolius have wide leaves, thus the photosynthesis rates are faster than Equisetum
hyemale where the photosynthesis occurred in the stems. The organics degradation products by the
microbes are utilized by the plants for photosynthesis processes. Therefore, the faster photosynthesis
rate, the faster organics intake rates by the microbes [18].

5. Conclusions

The Equisetum hyemale removed COD and BOD until 86.96% and 88.53% in variation of effluents
concentration after 14 days of contact, while Echinodorus palaefolius COD and BOD removal
efficiencies are 88.22% and 90.22%. Equisetum hyemale showed the best performance in effluents from
wax removal tank and Echinodorus palaefolius were best in removing COD and BOD from effluents of
sedimentation tank. The optimal contact time for removal of pollutants in batik was 7 days.

References

1. Wan Mohd Khalik, W.F., et al., Decolorization and Mineralization of Batik Wastewater through Solar

Photocatalytic Process. Vol. 44. 2015. 607-612.

2. Manjounath, S. and H. Kousar, Phytoremediation of Textile Industry Effluent using Aquatic Macrophytes.

International Journal of Environmental Sciences, 2016. 5(2): p. 10. 195

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Mutiara: Phytoremediation of Batik Industry Effluents using Aquatic Plants (Equisetum hyemale and Echinodorus palaefolius)

3. Subki, N.S. A Preliminary Study on Batik Effluent in Kelantan State: A Water Quality Perspective. in
International Conference on Chemical, Biological and Environment Sciences 2011. Bangkok.

4. Suharto, B., R. Wirosoedarmo, and R.H. Sulanda, Pengolahan Limbah Batik Tulis dengan Fitoremediasi
Menggunakan Tanaman Eceng Gondok (Eichornia crassipes). 2018, 2018. 3(1): p. 6 %J Jurnal Sumberdaya
Alam dan Lingkungan.

5. Subki, N., R. Hashim, and N. Zuhartini Md Muslim, Heavy Metals Analysis of Batik Industry Wastewater,
Plant and Soil Samples: A Comparison Study of FAAS and HACH Colorimeter Analytical Capabilities. 2014. p.
285-289.

6. Rashidi, H.R., N.M.N. Sulaiman, and N.A. Hashim, Batik Industry Synthetic Wastewater Treatment Using
Nanofiltration Membrane. Procedia Engineering, 2012. 44: p. 2010-2012.

7. Indrayani, L. and M. Triwiswara, Efektivitas Pengolahan Limbah Cair Industri Batik dengan Teknologi Lahan
Basah Buatan. Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik, 2018. 35(1): p. 14.

8. Khandare, R.V., et al., Phytoremediation potential of Portulaca grandiflora Hook. (Moss-Rose) in degrading a
sulfonated diazo reactive dye Navy Blue HE2R (Reactive Blue 172). Bioresource Technology, 2011. 102(12): p.
6774-6777.

9. Manjounath, S. and H. Kousar, Phytoremediation of Textile Industry Effluent using Pistia stratiote.
International Journal of Environmental Sciences, 2016. 5(2): p. 7.

10. Durairaj, S., et al., Constructed wetlands treatment of textile industry wastewater using aquatic macrophytes.
Vol. 3. 2013. 1223-1232.

11. Kurniati, E., et al., Lead and chromium removal from leachate using horsetail (Equisetum hyemale). 2014, 2014.
1(2): p. 4.

12. Wahyudianto, F.E., et al., Application of Equisetum hyemale in Constructed Wetland: Influence of Wastewater
Dilution and Contact Time. Journal of Ecological Engineering, 2019. 20(1): p. 174-179.

13. Malik, R., W. surakusumah, and H. Surtikanti, Potensi Tanaman Air Sebagai Agen Fitoakumulator Logam
Kromium Dalam Limbah Cair Tekstil. JRTPPI, 2016. 7: p. 45-52.

14. Prayitno, Pengurangan COD dan BOD Limbah Cair Terolah Industri Penyamakan Kulit Menggunakan Taman
Tanaman Air dengan Tanaman Melati Air. Majalah Kulit, Karet, dan Plastik, 2013. 29(1): p. 6.

15. Sasono, E. and P. Asmara, Penurunan Kadar BOD dan COD Air Limbah UPT PUSKESMAS Janti Kota
Malang dengan Metode Constructed Wetland. Jurnal Teknik WAKTU, 2013. 11(01): p. 11.

16. Khandare, R.V. and S.P. Govindwar, Phytoremediation of textile dyes and effluents: Current scenario and
future prospects. Biotechnology Advances, 2015. 33(8): p. 1697-1714.

17. Bielefeldt, A.R., Water Treatment, Industrial☆, in Reference Module in Life Sciences. 2017, Elsevier.
18. Ghiovani Raissa, D. and B. Voijant Tangahu, Fitoremediasi Air yang Tercemar Limbah Laundry dengan

Menggunakan Kayu apu (Pistia stratiotes). Vol. 6. 2017.
19. Vymazal, J., Constructed wetlands for treatment of industrial wastewaters: A review. Ecological Engineering,

2014. 73: p. 724-751.
20. Najafpour, G.D., CHAPTER 5 - Growth Kinetics, in Biochemical Engineering and Biotechnology, G.D.

Najafpour, Editor. 2007, Elsevier: Amsterdam. p. 81-141.
21. Prajapati, M., et al., Assessing the effectiveness of pollutant removal by macrophytes in a floating wetland for

wastewater treatment. Applied Water Science, 2017. 7(8): p. 4801-4809.
22. Rane, N.R., et al., Phytoremediation of sulfonated Remazol Red dye and textile effluents by Alternanthera

philoxeroides: An anatomical, enzymatic and pilot scale study. Water Research, 2015. 83: p. 271-281.

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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference

(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019

http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter
Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding

Method

Syifa Hanifah 1* and Giarto 1
1 Politeknik STTT Bandung

* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: -

Abstract : In this modern era, textile products that use natural fibers are more in demand because
they offer various benefits such as renewable properties, excellent biodegradability and ease of
manufacture that do not have a negative effect on the environment. Pineapple fiber is one of the
natural fibers besides cotton which is used as raw material for air filter is flax fiber. This fiber is obtained
from the leaves of pineapple plants by extraction, carried out to separate the cambium and fiber using
a decorticator machine. Pineapple (Ananas comous L.) is one of the leading fruit commodities in
Indonesia which leaves are leftover products. From research conducted by M. Asim, et al., (2015) it is
known that the chemical composition and physical properties of pineapple fiber are close to the
composition of flax fibers. So it is possible that pineapple fiber can be made into nonwoven which
functions as an air filter such as flax fiber. The experiment of making air filter nonwoven from
pineapple fiber used thermal bonding method with the help of low melt polyester fiber as a bonding
agent. The comparison of pineapple fiber and low melt polyester fiber used is 9: 1, then made with
three variations of gramation 400, 500 and 600g / m2. The thermal bonding process is carried out at a
temperature of 1300C and pressed at a pressure of 25 bar for five minutes. Tests carried out include
gramation, thickness, density, tensile strength, elongation, water permeability, porosity, pore size and
filtering efficiency. The testing results of nonwoven for air filters with three variations of gramation
fabric have an effect on the dimensions and physical properties of the nonwoven produced. The
greater the Gramation of fabric, the higher the thickness, density, strength, stretch and filtering
efficiency and the greater the gramation of the fabric, the smaller the value of water permeability,
porosity and pore size.

Keywords: air filter

ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

1. Introduction

Textiles are flexible materials made of woven yarn. Textiles are formed by means of embroidery,
sewing, binding and pressing. In this modern era, textile products are increasingly varied, it is not
only applied for clothesbut also widely used for the construction of highway, agro-textile, medical,
food and beverage, automotive, filter media and other product manufacturing industries.

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

Filter media is one of them is air filter for air purifier for household and industrial purposes. In this
air filter, the use of textile materials is more often found in the form of nonwoven fabric with various
types of fibers such as polyester and cotton with all its advantages and disadvantages.

Currently products that use natural fibers are more in demand because they offer various
benefits such as renewable properties, excellent biodegradability and ease of manufacture that do not
have a negative effect on the environment. Natural fibers, other than cotton used as raw material for
air filters are flax fibers. One of the natural fibers that can be found in Indonesia is pineapple fiber or
commonly called PALF (pineapple leaf fiber). The fiber is obtained from pineapple leaves. Pineapple
leaves are waste because so far the consumption of pineapple is only the fruit. Utilization of
pineapple fiber has so far been used to make clothing, but a larger amount is used to make ropes and
twines (Robert R. Franck, 2005 p.322).

Pineapple (Ananas comous L.) is one of the leading fruit commodities in Indonesia. This refers to
the amount of pineapple production which occupies the third position after bananas and mangoes.
The development of pineapple harvest area has increased even though it tends to slow down in the
last five years, as well as its production. For the Southeast Asian region, Indonesia is the third largest
producer of pineapple after the Philippines and Thailand with a contribution of around 23% (Nenas
Outlook, 2016). The results of 2017 agricultural statistics show that pineapple production in Indonesia
reaches 1,396,141 tons / year.

Based on the explanation above, it can be estimated that the use of pineapple fiber as raw
material for air filter has a great opportunity in Indonesia. For this reason, a further study is needed to
determine the physical properties of air filters with the raw material of pineapple fiber.

The purpose of this study is to determine the extent to which pineapple fibers can be processed
into woven weaving by thermal bonding method which functions as an air filter. The purpose of this
study is to produce a product that functions as an air filter on a water purifier that can be used at
home or in industry with raw materials derived from pineapple fiber.

2. Experimental
2.1. Research Methods

To facilitate observation and compilation of data to be obtained, steps need to be taken that can
be seen in Figure 2.1 below:

Observation Identify the scope Hypothesis Research design
(Studi of of the problem
literature)

Conclution of Analysis of Data collection Research
results data

Source: Suryana. 2010. Research Methodology. Indonesian Education University 198

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

Figure 1. Research flow diagram

1) Observation (Study of literature)
At this stage a collection of theoretical references can be supported research to be conducted.
References are obtained from books, journals and other sources.

2) Identify the scope of the problem
At this stage the most relevant and interesting problems to study are sought from the results
of the literature study.

3) Hypothesis
At this stage a temporary answer is made to the research problem whose answer must be
tested.

4) Research design
From the existing hypothesis, a research design is made so that the hypothesis can be
answered scientifically.

5) Research
After making further research designs, the design was practiced

6) Data collection
At this stage, data is collected from the results of research and product testing

7) Analysis of data
Data from the results of testing and research were analyzed according to relevant theories to
answer the hypothesis

8) Conclusion of results
The data that has been analyzed is then made a conclusion.

2.2. Tool Preparation

To make an air filter using the thermal bonding method, the tools used are as follows:

1) Mechanical softener machine

Softener machine functions to smooth the fiber mechanically, so that the fiber grip becomes

smoother.

Machine specifications:

• Made in : Indonesia

• Top roll number : 8 units

• Bottom roll number : 8 units

• Rpm roll up and down : 21 rpm.

2) Cutting machine

The cutting machine serves to cut the filament fibers into staple fibers.

Machine specifications:

• Made in : Indonesia

• Rpm feed roll : 47 rpm

• Feed roll diameter : 100 mm

• Rpm knife : 47 rpm

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

• Size of fiber after being cut : 1.5 inches

3) Opener machine

Opener machine functions to open clumps or bales of fiber.

Machine specifications:

• Made in : Indonesia

• Number of beaters : 3 pieces

• Rpm beater : 500 rpm

• Beater diameter : 500 mm

• Rpm feed roll : 6 rpm

• Feed roll diameter : 60 mm

• Electricity : 5.6 kW

• Fiber size : 1.5 inches

4) Hot press machine

The hot press machine serves to increase the strength of nonwoven by being given a certain

pressure at hot temperatures (maximum 25 0C) so that the low melt fibers will melt and stick

with other fibers.

Machine specifications:

• Made in : Tesktil Center

• Plate size : 30 cm x 30 cm

• Maximum pressure : 1000 bars

• Maximum temperature : 250 0C

2.3. Material Preparation

The raw material used to make woven weaving cloth which functions as an air filter is a mixture
of pineapple fiber and low melt polyester fiber which is a binding fiber with a ratio of 9:1.

The steps for preparing raw materials are carried out as follows:

1) Smoothing pineapple fibers

Pineapple fiber as much as 2.5 kg first through a mechanical smoothing process by grinding
by 8 pairs of rollers on the softener machine. The grinding process is carried out four times or
if the fiber surface is considered smooth enough.

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

Pineapple
fibre

Figure 2. Process of refining pineapple fibres

2) Cutting of pineapple fiber
After the pineapple fibers are mashed then the cutting process. Pineapple fibers measuring
approximately 0.7 m are cut to 1.5 inches use a cutting machine.

Pineapple
fibre 1,5
inches

Figure 3. Pineapple fibers after the cutting process

3) Opening of pineapple fiber

Pineapple fiber measuring 1.5 inches is then processed in an opener machine which functions
to open the fibers that are still clumping. On the opener machine, pineapple fibers are passed
on two beaters so that the clumping fibers will open.

beater 201

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

Figure 4. Opener machine

4) Weighing of pineapple fibers and low melt polyester fibers

Each fiber is weighed according to the calculation formula, pineapple fiber 2,430 g (90%) and
low melt polyester fiber 270 g (10%) so that the weight of the mixed raw material is 2,700 g.

5) Mixing of pineapple fibers and low melt polyester fibers

Mixing of pineapple fiber and low melt polyester fiber is carried out on the machine opener.
Low melt polyester fibers are spread evenly over pineapple fibers in bribe lattice. After it feels
quite even, the engine starts. The blending process involves two beaters and two feedings are
carried out to ensure that the two fibers are evenly mixed.

low melt
polyestr

fibers

Pineaple
fibers

Mixed fibers (b)

(a)

Figure 5. (a) Mixing process (b) Mixing fibers

2.4. Making Nonwoven Samples

After preparing the tools and materials to be used, the next process is making samples which are done by:

1. Weighing mixed fibers The fiber that has gone through the blending process is then weighed
with variations in weight of 40g, 50g and 60g.

Mixed
fibers

Figure 6. The process of weighing mixed fibers

2. Making nonwoven with thermal bonding method

The weighed fiber is then arranged on a 32 cm x 32 cm pan which has been first coated with Teflon
paper on the inside then the fiber is covered by other Teflon paper. Furthermore, the mixed fiber was
pressurized as much as 25 bars and heated at 130 0C for five minutes with a hot press.

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Syifa: A Study of Making Nonwoven Fabric as an Air Filter Based on Pineapple Leaf Fiber by Thermal Bonding Method

Mixed
fibers

Hot press
machine

(a) (b)
Figure 7. (a) Arrangement of raw materials (b) Thermal binding process
2.5 Nonwoven sample Testing

2.5.1 Testing of Nonwoven Gramation

Tests for nonwoven gramation refer to ASTM D 3776 - 96 (Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit
Area (Weight) of Fabric). The steps taken during testing are as follows:

 The sample cloth is cut to a size of 5 cm long and 5 cm wide
 Then the specimen is conditioned in a room with a temperature of 25 0C and humidity of 65%

with a minimum time of 6 hours
 After being conditioned, the specimen is then weighed using a balance sheet with accuracy

up to 0.1% of its mass
 After obtaining the weight then the value is calculated using the formula:

100 ( ⁄ ) 100( ⁄ )
ℎ ( ⁄ ) = ℎ ( ) ℎ ( ) ℎ ℎ ( )

2.5.2 Testing of Nonwoven Thickness

Testing of the thickness of nonwoven refers to ASTM D 5736 - 95 (Standard Test Method for
Thickness of High Nonwoven Fabrics). The steps taken during testing are as follows:

 The sample cloth is cut to a size of 5 cm x 5 cm. Cut fabric must be free of folds, wrinkled or
wrinkled.

 Then the specimen is conditioned at 25 0C and humidity is 65% with a minimum time of 6
hours

 After being conditioned, each side and the middle part of each specimen measured its
thickness using a thickness tester, the thickness value was read to the accuracy of 0.02 mm.

 The results of the thickness value are then calculated on average, standard deviation,
coefficient of variation, sampling error, maximum - minimum value and F test.

2.5.3 Testing of nonwoven Density 203

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For testing the density of nonwoven gramation test data and fabric thickness are used.
Gramation values and fabric thickness obtained from the test results are used to calculate the value of
fabric density using the formula:

( ⁄ ) = ℎ ( ⁄ )
ℎ ( )

2.5.4 Testing of The tensile strength and elongation

Testing of tensile strength and elongation of nonwoven refers to ASTM D 5034 - 08 (Standard Test
Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)). The steps taken during
testing are as follows:

 The sample cloth is cut to a size of 10 cm x 20 cm.
 Then the specimen is conditioned at 25 0C and humidity is 65% with a minimum time of 6

hours
 After being conditioned, the specimen is pulled up to tear using a tens lab tool with a 7.5 cm

pinch distance, 2.5 cm clamp size and 300 ± 10 mm / min withdrawal speed.
 The results of the fabric tensile strength and elongation are then calculated on average,

standard deviation, coefficient of variation, sampling error, maximum - minimum value and
F test.

2.5.5 Testing of Nonwoven Permeability

Air permeability testing of nonwoven refers to ASTM D 737-96 (Standard Test Method for Air
Permeability of Textile Fabrics). The steps taken during testing are as follows:

 The sample cloth is cut to a size of 30 cm x 30 cm
 Then the specimen is conditioned at 25 0C and humidity is 65% with a minimum time of 6

hours
 Once conditioned, specimens are subjected to air pressure using static air permeability test

instruments. The pressure given is 200 Pa with a test area of 20 cm2.
 The results of the fabric water permeability values are then calculated on average, standard

deviation, coefficient of variation, sampling error, maximum - minimum value and F test.

2.5.6 Testing of Nonwoven Porosity

To get the porosity value of nonwoven using the value of the test results of fabric density and
mixed fiber density values. Then the values are calculated using the following formula:

∅ (%) = 100%



(%) = (1 − ∅) 100%

where :
ε = fabric porosity (%),
∅ = volume fraction of solid material (%)

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ρ_fabric = fabric density (kg / m3)
ρ_fiber = fiber density (kg / m3)

2.5.7 Testing of Pore Size and Nonwoven Filtering Efficiency

Testing the size of the pores of the nonwoven refers to SNI 08-4418-97 (How to test the size of
geotextile pores). The steps taken during testing are as follows:

 Sample cloth cut with a diameter of 25 cm.
 Then the specimen is conditioned at 25 0C and relative humidity (RH) 65% for 6 hours.
 The mesh container to be used is weighed first and recorded the weight as the weight of the

empty container.
 The conditioned specimens are weighed by weight and the value is recorded as the empty

filter weight.
 Grains with a specific mesh size are weighed as much as ± 50g and the weight is recorded as

the initial grain weight.
 The weighed filter is then mounted on an empty mesh container and the weighed granules

are spread throughout the filter surface.
 Then the container is sifted for 15 minutes
 After 15 minutes the mesh container and filter are weighed again, the weight is recorded as

mesh container weight + grain and filter weight + granules.
 The weighing results are used to calculate the size of the pore and filter filtering efficiency

and then calculate the average, standard deviation, coefficient of variation, sampling error,
maximum - minimum value and F test.

2.5.8 Testing Nonwoven Samples Test Results

2.5.8.1 Fabric Gramation Test Results

Table 1 is processing data from the results of testing the Gramation of fabric resulting from three
variations.

Table 1. Data on the result of Gramation fabric testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N fabric wight (g/m2) fabric wight (g/m2) fabric wight (g/m2)

Min 10 10 10
Max 424,8590 529,3013 624,4054

S 393,19 486,00 597,22
454,86 569,85 681,96
18,19 25,184 30,100

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CV 4,281 4,758 4,821
E 2,653 2,949 2,988
Fcount 1,38 1,19 1,65
FTable 3,18

2.5.8.2 Fabric Thickness Test Results

Table 2 is processing data from the results of testing the thickness of fabric resulting from three
variations.

Table 2. Data on the result of thickness fabric testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N
thickness (mm) thickness (mm) thickness (mm)
Min 10 10 10
Max 1,78 2,16 2,49
1,70 2,08 1,70
S 1,91 2,28 2,62
CV 0,08 0,07 0,08
E 4,57 3,27 3,02
Fcount 2,83 2,03 1,87
FTable 1,14 1,14 1,00
3,18

2.5.8.3 Fabric Density Test Results

Table 3 below is the processing of data from the results of fabric density testing resulting from three
variations

Table 2. Data on the result of fabric density testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
N (gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)

density (Kg/m3) density (Kg/m3) density (Kg/m3)
10 10 10

239,65 245,49 250,87

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Min 214,86 213,16 228,08
Max 262,03 265,05 267,44
14,53 15,60 11,85
S 6,06 6,35 4,72
CV 3,76 3,94 2,93
E 1,07 1,73 1,23
Fcount 3,18
FTable

2.5.8.4 Tensile Strength Test Results

Table 4 below is processing data from the results of fabric strength testing resulting from three
variations.

Table 3. Data on the result of fabric tensile strength testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N
strength (N) strength (N) strength (N)
Min 10 10 10
Max
169,28 209,42 333,03
S 114,92 138,60 224,10
CV 240,03 298,99 483,02
E 43,86 59,01 80,50
Fcount 25,91 28,180 24,172
FTable 16,06 17,47 14,98
1,35 1,36 1,84
3,18

2.5.8.5 Fabric Elongation Test Results

Table 5 is processing data from the results of fabric elongation testing produced from three
variations.

Table 4. Data on the result of fabric elongation testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
N (gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)

elongation (%) elongation (%) elongation (%)
10 10 10

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Min 18,15 18,30 18,34
Max 10,40 11,41 9,79
27,01 32,80 28,80
S 6,73 5,89 5,70
CV 37,13 32,16 31,09
E 23,01 19,93 19,27
Fcount 1,14 1,03 1,18
FTable 3,18

2.5.8.6 Fabric Water Permeability Test Results

Table 6. below is processing data from the results of fabric water permeability testing resulting from
three variations.

Table 5. Data on the result of fabric air permeability testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N
air permeability air permeability air permeability
Min (cm3/cm2/s) (cm3/cm2/s) (cm3/cm2/s)
Max 10 10 10
183,60 135,40 109,90
S 171,00 122,00 104,00
CV 199,00 150,00 116,00
E 9,62 11,01 4,09
Fcount 5,24 8,13 3,73
FTable 3,25 5,04 2,31
1,14 2,69 2,35
3,18

2.5.8.7 Fabric Porosity Test Results

Table 7 below is processing data of the results of fabric porosity testing resulting from three variations
of fabrication.

Table 6. Data on the result of fabric porosity test results

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)

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N Porosity (%) Porosity (%) Porosity (%)
10 10 10
Min
Max 91,78 91,58 91,40
91,01 90,91 90,83
S 92,63 92,69 92,18
CV 0,50 0,53 0,41
E 0,54 0,58 0,44
Fhitung 0,33 0,36 0,27
1,06 1,29 1,22

Ftabel 3,18

2.5.8.8 Test Results for Fabric Pores

Table 8 below is the data processing results of testing the fabric pore size resulting from three
variations. Each variation of nonwoven is tested with different grain sizes, if the weight of the
granules that pass is less than 5%, the pore size of the nonwoven is the same as the size of the grain
used. Testing the size of the pores of woven fabric refers to SNI 08-4418-97 (How to test the size of
geotextile pores).

Table 8. Data on the result of fabric pores testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N tested with grain size tested with grain size tested with grain size

Min (0,425µ) (0,355µ) (0,250µ)
Max 5 5 5

S 4,567% 4,544% 3,679%
CV 4,29 4,37 3,04
E 4,80 4,69 4,20
Fcount 0,211 0,118 0,496
Ftabel 2,594
4,6612 2,274 13,483
4,043 4,20 11,817
1,79
6,39 2,35

2.5.8.9 Filtering Efficiency Test Results
Table 9 below is the data processing test results of filtering efficiency resulting from three variations.

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Table 9. Data on the result of filtering efficiency testing

Item Variation 1 Variation 2 Variation 3
(gramation 400 g/m2) (gramation 500 g/m2) (gramation 600 g/m2)
N Filtration efficiency for Filtration efficiency for Filtration efficiency for
granules 0,425 µ (%) granules 0,355 µ (%) granules 0,250 µ (%)
Min
Max 5 5 5
74,139 83,922 93,673
S 73,52 83,66 92,73
CV 74,74 84,53 94,34
E 0,572 0,390 0,624
Fcount 0,771 0,465 0,666
Ftabel 0,676 0,408 0,584

1,47 1,60 1,09

6,39

3. Results and Discussion

The discussion chapter is a discussion of the results of the experiments conducted. The data presented can
be in the form of graphs and images of the test results. The graphs presented are graphs between the
weight of the raw material and the other parameters of gramation.

The following will be elaborated on the discussion of experimental results on variations in fabric
gramation and the process of fiber hand lay-up.

3.1. Fabric Gramation Test Results

The weight of nonwoven (or mass of fabric) is defined as the mass per unit area of cloth and is
usually measured in g / m2 (or gsm). From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of
Fcount < Ftable value so that Ho can be accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3
are mutually influential and are in the same range. Can be seen in Figure 8, graph the results of the
average of fabric gramation test shows the more raw materials used, the fabric produced is more
tightly. This can be proven by the formula:

100 ( ⁄ ) 100( ⁄ )
ℎ ( ⁄ ) = ℎ ( ) ℎ ( ) ℎ ℎ ( )

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700,000 624,405
600,000
500,000 529,301
400,000
gramasi (g/m2) 300,000 424,859
200,000
100,000

0,000

40 50 60
weigth of raw material (g)

Figure 8. The graph of average of Fabric Gramation

If the weight of the raw material in the same area is more then it will produce a heavier weight of
fabric per unit area or in other words the fabric produced is denser, conversely if the weight of the
raw material in the same area is less then the fabric produced will be tenuous.

3.2. Fabric Thickness Test Results

fabric thickness (mm) 3
2,49

2,5 2,16

2 1,78

1,5

1

0,5

0

424,859 529,301 624,405

gramase (g/m2)

Figure 9. The graph of average of Fabric Thickness

Fabric thickness is defined as the distance between two fabric surfaces under the specified
applied pressure. From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of Fcount < Ftable value so
that H0 can be accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 are mutually influential
and are in the same range. Can be seen in Figure 9 graph of the average of fabric thickness that the

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greater the fabric gramation, the thicker the fabric. This is because when raw materials of different
weights are arranged in a container with the same area, the composition of the raw material will
increase in a high direction so that the thickness will increase.

3.3. Fabric Density Test Results

252 250,87
624,405
250

Densitas (Kg/m3) 248
246 245,49

244

242
239,65

240

238

236

234 529,301
424,859

gramase (g/m2)

Figure 10. The graph of average of Fabric Density

The density of the fabric is defined as the measured weight per unit area (kg / m2) divided by the
thickness of the fabric measured from the fabric (m). From the results of the F test calculation shows
the value of Fcount < Ftable value so that H0 can be accepted which means that the value of variations
1, 2 and 3 are mutually influential and are in the same range. It can be seen in Figure 10 the graph of
the average results of the fabric density test found that the greater the value of fabric Gramation then
the density will be higher. This is due to the increasing amount of fiber (raw material is getting
heavier) in a volume of the same object which causes the distance between fibers to be increasingly
tight.

3.4. Test Results for Tensile Strength

350 333,027

300

tensile strenght (N) 250 209,419
200 169,277

150

100

50

0

424,859 529,301 624,405

gramase (g/m2)

Figure 11. The graph of average Tensile Strength of Fabric

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According to S.J. Russel (2007), the stress-strain properties of nonwoven are determined by the
orientation distribution of fiber segments. From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of
Fcount <Ftable value so that H0 can be accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 are
mutually influential and are in the same range. Figure 11 the graph of the average of tensile strength
of the fabric shows that the greater the gramation of the fabric, the greater the value of tensile
strength. This is due to the increasing number of fibers in the same area, when the amount of fiber is
large, there will be a lot of fiber orientation distribution. When large amounts of fiber in one area are
tied together using a method, when the resulting fabric is pulled up to cause the fabric to tear the
tensile strength value will be large.

3.5. Fabric Elongation Testing Results

elongation (%) 18,400 18,302 18,339
18,350 624,405
18,300 18,150
18,250
18,200
18,150
18,100
18,050

424,859 529,301

gramase (g/m2)

Figure 12. The graph of average of Fabric Elongation

According to NM Susyami Hitariat, et al. (2005), the stretch of cloth is interpreted as the increase
in fabric length when the fabric is broken compared to the original fabric length expressed in percent
(%). The values of variations 1, 2 and 3 are mutually influential and are in the same range. In Figure
12, the graph of the average of fabric elongation shows that the higher the gramation of the fabric, the
higher the elongation value. This is because the bond points at each Gramation are increasing, if the
bond point increases with increasing gramation, the tensile strength of the fabric will also increase,
this will affect the the fabric elongation.

3.6. Fabric Air Permeability Test Results

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Air permeability (cm3/cm2/s) 200,0 183,6

150,0 135,4
100,0
109,9

50,0

0,0

424,859 529,301 624,405

gramasi (g/m2)

Figure 13. The graph of average of Fabric Air Permeability

From the results of the calculation of the F test shows the value of Fcount < Ftable value so that H0
can be accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 affect each other. It can be seen
from Figure 13 the graph of the average of fabric air permeability, that the greater the fabric
gramation, the smaller the value of air permeability. This is because the weight and thickness of the
fabric determines the fabric density which determines the proportion of the cavity in the fabric
structure produced. The denser the fabric, the smaller the proportion of the cavity in the fabric, if the
proportion of the fabric cavity is small then the air will be difficult to pass through the fabric.

3.7. Fabric Porosity Test Results

91,90 91,78
91,80
Porosity (%) 91,70 91,58
91,60
91,50 91,40
91,40
91,30
91,20

424,859 529,301 624,405
gramase (g/m2)

Figure 14. The graph of average of Fabric Porosity

According to S.J. Russell (2007) the weight and thickness of the fabric determines the density of
the fabric which also affects the freedom of movement of the fiber and determines the porosity of the
fabric (proportion of cavities) in the structure of the nonwoven. Porosity provides information about

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the overall pore volume of porous material and is defined as the ratio of non-solid volume (vacuum)
to the total volume of nonwoven. (%). From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of
Fcount < Ftable value so that H0 can be accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 are
mutually influential and are in the same range. Can be seen in Figure 14 above the lower the higher
the value of fabric gramation, the lower the value of porosity. This is in accordance with the theory
given by S.J Russell and can be proven by the formula:

∅ (%) = 100%

(%) = (1 − ∅) 100%

If the density of fabric is a large while the fiber density value is a dividing factor has a fixed
value, the value of ∅ will also be large which will then affect the value of ε which is the reduction
factor will be greater so that the value of ε will be smaller.

3.8. Results of Testing of Fabric Pore Size

0,500 0,425
0,400
fabric pore size (µ) 0,300 0,355
0,200
0,100 0,250
0,000 624,405

424,859 gramase (g/5m229),301

Fiture 15. The graph of average of Fabric Pore Size

According to S.J. Russel (2007) open pore size is important to determine the filtering performance
and blockage of nonwoven and allows the determination of the filtering power of the nonwoven (%).
From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of Fcount <Ftable value so that H0 can be
accepted which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 are mutually influential and are in the
same range. Can be seen in Figure 15, the value of the pore size gets smaller with the increase in fabric
gramation. This is influenced by the gramation and thickness of the fabric which then becomes a
determinant of fabric density. When the fabric has a high density, the open pore size will be less
because the amount of fiber that binds more and more, on the contrary if the fabric density is low
then the open pore size will increase because the number of fibers that binds less and less.

3.9. Filtering Efficiency Test Results

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100 93,673
80 74,139
filtering efficiency (%) 83,922

60

40

20

0

424,859 529,301 624,405

gramase (g/m2)

Figure 16. The graph of average of Filtering Efficiency

From the results of the F test calculation shows the value of Fcount < Ftable value so that H0 can be accepted
which means that the value of variations 1, 2 and 3 are mutually influential and are in the same range. It can be
seen in Figure 16 the graph of the testing results, filtering efficiency shows that the higher the value of
gramation, the higher the filtering efficiency. This is due to the density which then affects the size of the pores
of the nonwoven. If the fabric gets denser, the porosity and pore size will be smaller, according to the
theory of fabric porosity and pore size, so that when particles larger than 0.425µ pass through the air
filter, more particles will be held back in air filter cloth with a pore size of 0,250 µ.

3.10. The ability of pineapple fiber as an air filter

From the results of all tests that have been carried out include gramation, thickness and density
affecting tensile strength, elongation, porosity, air permeability, pore size and filtering efficiency
which can then influence the filtering capacity of the nonwoven. With different pore sizes of 0.425 µ,
0.355 µ and 0.250 µ and associated with specific size data for indoor air contamination (national air
filtration association, V6 2010), all three variations of pineapple fiber air filter cloth (90%) and low
melt polyester fibers (10%) that have been made will be able to filter contaminants such as bacteria,
cigarette smoke particles, kitchen smoke particles or oil, dander, dust, insecticide dust, coal dust,
plant spores, fertilizers and hairs that have a size of 0 , 5 - 100 µ with filtering efficiency 74.139%,
83.922% and 93.67%.

.Conclusion

1) The results of the analysis of the dimensions and physical properties of nonwoven that have
been made show:

 The more weight the raw material is weighed, the greater the value of the gramation.
 The greater the value of gramation of the nonwoven, the higher the value of thickness,

density, tensile strength, elongation and filtering efficiency of the nonwoven.
 The greater the value of gramation of nonwoven, the smaller the value of air

permeability, porosity and pore size.

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2) Based on the results of testing and discussion, pineapple fiber can be used as an alternative
raw material in making air filter fabric.

4. Suggestions

For further research, if using raw materials and the same binding method, it is better to go
through a web-making process to obtain a better nonwoven and chemical properties testing and field
tests to find out more specific uses and filters for air filter nonwoven

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18. P.P. Kolte and Vijay Shivankar. 2015. Bilayer Non-Woven Fabric for Air Filtration. International journal on

Textile Engineering and Processes Vol.1 Issue 3
19. Russel,J.S.2007. Handbook of Non Wovens. Woodhead Publishing Limited And CRC Press LLC.
20. Slamet Riyadi, A.L.,Dr.,SKM. 1982. Pencemaran Udara. Usaha Nasional. Surabaya
21. Stoker, H. S. and Seager, S.L. 1972. Environmental Chemistry: Air and Water Pollution. Glenview, Illinois:

Scott Foresman
22. Sudjana,M.A.,M.Sc. 2005. Metode Statistika.
23. Sunu, P. 2001. Melindungi Lingkungan Dengan Menerapkan ISO 1400. Jakarta: PT. Gramedia Widia Sarana

Indonesia.
24. Suryana. 2010. Metodologi Penelitian. Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia

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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference

(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019

http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

Knitted Fabric Density Measurement Using Image
Processing Techniques

Ryan Rudy1, Andrian Wijayono2*, Taufik Munandar3, and Valentinus Galih Vidia Putra4

1 Textile Evaluation Laboratory, Politeknik STTT Bandung; ryanruud@@gmail.com
2 Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]

3 Knitting Laboratory, Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]
4 Physics and Mechatronics Laboratory, Politeknik STTT Bandung; [email protected]

* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-8180-9980-810

Abstract: A method of measuring the stitch density (course per inch and wale per inch) of a knitted
fabric has been developed in this research. The stitch density of a knitted fabric measured by
capturing a digital image of the knitted fabric to be examined by means of a digital microscope,
converting the image into digital image information, storing the digital image information in a digital
memory and converting said information by a central processing unit into the stitch density
information. The method was tested using 3 knitted fabric samples with different densities. In order
to validate the proposed method, the results were compared with the mean stitch density directly
measured from the standards methods. It has been found that the results between conventional and
proposed method are not significantly different (with 0,95 significance value).

Keywords: image processing; course per inch; wale per inch; stitch density.

ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

1. Introduction

There have been some conventional methods to measure stitch density of knitted fabrics and the
most traditional one is the manual operation method. However, this measurement shows some
drawbacks, which are time-consuming and tiring. Therefore, it is necessary to develop an automatic
counting system for stitch density. Image processing has been proved to be an efficient method of
analyzing fabric structures [1-14]. There have been recent studies to measure the fabric density using
fourier transform analysis [1-4] which usually requires some advances in mathematical and
programming. Other measuring methods use co-occurrence matrix and gray line-profile [5,6]. In this
research, the proposed image processing method to measure the stitch density is the counting pixel
method. In this paper, we aim to investigate the efficiency and accuracy of the method, and compare
it with manual operation method procedure.

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2. Materials and Methods
Knitted fabric structures are used in this study. The samples consist of three samples of rib knit

structure, which are selected for evaluating the performance of the proposed method. The
characteristics of each fabric samples are shown in Table 1.

Table 1. Characteristics of knitted fabric samples

Sample Fabric Sample Structure Pattern Density,
code stitch/inch

(Wale X Course)

S1 Rib Solid 28 X 12

S2 Rib Solid 32 X 15

S3 Rib Solid 26 X 14

Figure 1 shows the captured image of sample fabric (S1). As we see in Figure 1, black area

appears along the spacing between yarns. We use this property to find stitch density. These black area

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are caused by the light transmitted through the fabric from the light source of the digital microscope.
The boundary positions between yarns can be easily defined by measuring the wale spacing and
course spacing on the digital image. The pixel counting method does not require a preprocessing or
filtering technique in the measurement. The measurement of manual operation is based on “SNI
0458:2013 Tekstil - Kain rajut pakan - Cara uji konstruksi” standards method.

Course spacing for one course

Wale spacing for two wale

Figure 1. Captured image of knitted fabric (S2) using digital microscope device
3. Results

The results of each methods are compared (manual operation and pixel counting method) in this
research. The comparison of stitch density between both methods for the fabrics are shown in Table 2.

In order to validate the proposed method, the results are compared with the mean stitch density
directly measured from the standards methods. The results shows that the stitch density between
conventional and proposed method are not significantly different (with 0,95 significance value). The
T-test results between conventional and proposed method are shown in Table 3. The Independent
sample T-test result is performed by SPSS Statistics 17.0 software.

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Table 2. The result of stitch density of knitted fabric using manual operation and image
processing method

Sample Manual Operation Image Processing
code
Fabric sample
S1
Wale/inch Course/inch Wale/inch Course/inch

̅ = 28.6 ̅ = 12.8 ̅ = 28.07 ̅ = 12.08
s = 0.83666 s = 0.8681 s = 0.8056
s= CV% = 6.53 CV% = 6.67
0.89442 CV% =
3.09
CV% =
3.127

̅ = 32 ̅ = 15 ̅ = 32.5 ̅ = 15.1

s = s = 0.44721 s = 0.5098 s = 0.4256

0.83666 CV% = 2.98 CV% = CV% = 2.82

CV% = 1.57

S2 2.61

̅ = 26 ̅ = 14 ̅ = 26.88 ̅ = 14.91

s = s = 0.7071 s = 1.2668 s = 0.4902

1.09544 CV% = 5.05 CV% = CV% = 3.29

CV% = 4.71

S3 4.21

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Table 3. The T-test results of knitted fabric stitch density between conventional and proposed
method

The Independent T-test result of wale density of sample (S1) from image processing and manual
operation

The Independent T-test result of course density of sample (S1) from image processing and manual
operation

The Independent T-test result of wale density of sample (S2) from image processing and manual
operation

The Independent T-test result of course density of sample (S2) from image processing and manual
operation

The Independent T-test result of wale density of sample (S3) from image processing and manual
operation

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The Independent T-test result of course density of sample (S3) from image processing and manual
operation

4. Discussion
The result of this study shows that the pixel counting method yields equal result with the manual

operation (the values are not significantly different with 0,95 significance value). All of the T-test
result for all comparison shows the Sig. value are above 0,05, which means that the stitch density
results between manual and proposed method are not significantly different.

5. Conclusions

We investigated the performance of pixel counting method to find the stitch density. We
have discovered that the method gives us some benefits that cannot be obtained by manual
operation. The pixel counting method does not require a preprocessing or filtering technique
in its measurement. Above all, the result of proposed method measurement shows equal
result with the manual operation measurement. It has been found that the fabric density
measurement results between manual and proposed method are not significantly different
(with 0,95 significance value). Thus, the proposed method, which is not time-consuming nor
tiring, can be an alternative in measuring the stitch density of knitted fabrics.

Acknowledgments: This work was supported by Mechatronics and Physics Laboratory, Politeknik STTT
Bandung.
Author Contributions: Andrian Wijayono, Taufik Munandar and Ryan Rudi designed, performed validation of
experiment and wrote the paper; Valentimus Galih Vidia Putra designed the image processing methods.
Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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References

1. Shady, E., Gowayed, Y., Abouiiana, M., Youssef, S., & Pastore, C. (2006). Detection and Classification of
Defects in Knitted Fabric Structures. Textile Research Journal, 76(4), 295–300.
https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517506053906

2. Saeidi, R. G., Latifi, M., Najar, S. S., & Saeidi, A. G. (2005). Computer Vision-Aided Fabric Inspection
System for On-Circular Knitting Machine. Textile Research Journal, 75(6), 492–497.
https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517505053874

3. Xu, B. (1996). Identifying Fabric Structures with Fast Fourier Transform Techniques. Textile Research
Journal, 66(8), 496–506. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759606600803.

4. Hosseini Ravandi, S. A., & Toriumi, K. (1995). Fourier Transform Analysis of Plain Weave Fabric
Appearance. Textile Research Journal, 65(11), 676–683. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759506501108.

5. Shih, C.-Y., & Lee, J.-Y. (2004). Automatic Recognition of Fabric Weave Patterns by a Fuzzy C-Means
Clustering Method. Textile Research Journal, 74(2), 107–111. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750407400204.

6. Lin, J.-J. (2002). Applying a Co-occurrence Matrix to Automatic Inspection of Weaving Density for Woven
Fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 72(6), 486–490. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750207200604.

7. Wijayono, A., Putra, V.G.V., Irwan, I., Iskandar, S., Rohmah, S. (2017). Penerapan Teknologi Pengolah Citra
dan Fisika Pada Bidang Tekstil. CV. Mulia Jaya. Yogyakarta.

8. Wijayono, A & Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Stitch Per Inch Measurement Using Image Processing Techniques.
Arena Tekstil, Vol. 33, No. 2. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.31266/at.v33i2.3571.

9. Behera, B.K. and Pattanayak, A.K. Measurement and modeling of drape using digital image processing.
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research. Vol. 33. pp. 230-238 (2008).

10. Wijayono, A., Irwan, I., Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Implementation of Digital Image Processing and Computation
Technology on Measurement and Testing of Woven Fabric Parameters. arXiv:1810.07651. Cornell
University.

11. Wijayono, A., Irwan, I., Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Implementation of Digital Image Processing and Computation
Technology on Measurement and Testing of Non Woven Fabric Parameters. arXiv:1810.07650. Cornell
University.

12. Wijayono, A. & Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Implementation of Digital Image Processing and Computation
Technology on Measurement and Testing of Various Yarn Parameters. arXiv:1810.07649. Cornell University.

13. Wijayono, A. & Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Implementation of Digital Image Processing And Computation
Technology On Measurement And Testing Of Various Knit Fabric Parameters. arXiv:1810.06422. Cornell
University.

14. Wijayono, A. & Putra, V.G.V. (2018). Implementation of Image Analysis Techniques For Various Textile
Identification. arXiv:1810.06423. Cornell University.

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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference

(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019
http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

Wedding Gown Making with Sasirangan Fabric and
Borneo’s Motif Embroidery

Resti Merdina 1, and Karlina Somantri 2*
1,2 Politeknik STTT Bandung

* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +62-812-2022-0260

Abstract: Indonesia has a great culture, including its traditional fabrics. This traditional fabric needs to
be preserved, so it does not extinct. One of the efforts to preserve traditional fabrics is to use these
traditional fabrics and introduce them to the community. Sasirangan is one of the traditional fabrics of
the Banjar tribe from South Borneo. This fabric is made using a tie dye technique that produces a
variety of motifs that are special or unique from its region. This sasiranganfabric was originally a cloth
used by nobles, to attend traditional ceremonies. However, traditional ceremonies were rarely carried
out. This can make the traditional fabric become extinct. One way to introduce this sasiranganfabric to
the public is to make a wedding gown using sasirangan fabric. Sasirangan is used on body parts and
ribbon-shaped applications on the back of part the dress. In addition, on this wedding gown,
embroidery application is added with a regional motif fromBorneo,mangosteen motif and jaruju
leaves on the chest and back, and the embroidery is also added to the skirt of the wedding gown.

Keywords: Sasirangan; Banjar tribe; Borneo; Traditional fabric; Wedding gown

ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

1. Introduction
Indonesia is a country with a various culture. Sasirangan fabric is one of the Indonesian cultural, a

traditional fabric from Banjar tribe, South Borneo. The uniqueness of this fabric can be seen in the
variety of its motifs. Sasirangan comes from the word "sirang" (local language) which means tied or
sewn by hand and drawn by the thread [10]. In the very beginning, sasirangan fabric was used as
traditional clothing, usually in the form of headbands, belts for men as well as scarves, veils, or
“kemben” for women. This sasirangan fabric was originally only used in traditional ceremonies.
Nowadays, traditional ceremonies have rarely been performed. This can cause sasirangan fabric to
become extinct. One of the ways that can be done to preserve this sasirangan fabric from the extinction
is by introducing the fabric to the community. One of the ways to introduce sasirangan fabric is using
the fabric as a wedding gown. Besides using sasirangan fabric, the wedding gown will also be added

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the embroidery as application using Tapuk Manggis (mangosteen pockmark) motif which is a typical
motif from Borneo. The examples of Sasirangan fabrics and its motifs are shown in Figure 1.

(a) (b)

Figure 1. (a) The examples of Sasirangan fabrics, (b) Examples of Motifs of Sasirangan Fabrics, 1.
Gigi Haruan, 2. KambangKacang, 3. HirisGagatas, 4. Kambang Sasaki, 5. DaunJaruju, 6. Tampuk
Manggis, 7. Bintang, 8. KangkungKaubakan, 9. OmbakSinampurkarang, 10. Bayam Raja, 11.
KulatKarikit, 12. HirisPudak, 13. UlarPadi, 14. MayangMurai, 15. Naga Balimbur, 16.
RamakSahangThe purpose of making a wedding gown using sasirangan fabric is to introduce
sasirangan fabric to the public. The goal is to create alternative modern wedding gown using
traditional fabrics and preserving Indonesian culture from extinction.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1 Material

2.1.1 Sasirangan fabric
The motif of sasirangan fabric that be used in this wedding gown is “Tapuk Manggis”

(mangosteen pockmark, no. 6 on Fig 1b). The motif comes from flowers on the top of the mangosteen
fruit. Each mangosteen has flowers that can estimate the contents of the fruit hidden inside. It has a
philosophy of the honesty (five or six mangosteen flowers represent five or six fruit inside). Another
motif used in this wedding gown is “DaunJaruju” (jaruju leaves, no 5 on Fig 1b). The philosophy of
jaruju leaves is prevent disaster.

2.1.2 Another material

Another material used for wedding gown as shown on Figure 2

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Resti Merdiana : Wedding Gown Making with Sasirangan Fabric and Borneo’s Motif Embroidery

Figure 2. Material Used for Wedding Gown

Table 1. Material used for wedding gown

No Item Qty

1 Sasirangan fabric 2 plies
2 Sateen fabric 11 m
3 Siffon fabric 11 m
4 Tulle fabric 2m
5 Organza fabric 2m
6 Hard tulle fabric 20 m
7 Asahi fabric 2m
8 Rubber (4 cm width) 1m
9 Sewing thread 3 cones
10 Swarovsky beads 3 gross
11 Pearl beads 4mm 2 strand
12 Pearl beads 6mm 2 strand
13 Pearl beads 8mm 2 strand
14 Long beads 1 box
15 Lace 11 m
16 Covered button 20 pcs

2.2 Methods

Making wedding gown is starting from making the moodboard (Fig. 3) as the source of
inspiration. Then preparing the material, measure the body parts (Table. 2), pattern making (Fig. 4),
sewing, fitting the gown and finishing (attaching the application).

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Figure 3. Moodboard

Table 2. Body Measurement

No Item to be measured Size (cm)

1 Chest girth 90
2 Waist girth 72
3 Neck girth 36
4 Body length 33
5 Chest width 34
6 Shoulder width 12.5
7 Back width 35
8 Back length 37
9 Sleeve length 55
10 Armscye girth 44
11 Highest sleeve point length 13
12 Upper-arm girth 34
13 Wrist girth 19
14 Waist height 85
15 Skirt gitrh 10 m

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Figure 4. Pattern of wedding gown

3. Results
The result of wedding gown can be seen on Fig. 5.

Figure 5. Wedding gown

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4. Discussion

The wedding gown made fromSasiranganfabricand the application of the mangosteen
embroidery motif has a ballgown silhouette, or L silhouette with a cathedral tail length. The
embroidery motif of the mangosteen are spread along the skirt and the tail of the gown. Sasirangan
fabric is used in the body of the gown and the ribbon application in the back side of the gown.

The line applied to this bridal is a straight line and curved lines. Straight lines impress tension,
certainty, stiffness, and firmness. Curved lines are flexible, beautiful, feminine and soft. Both lines are
applied to this bridal dress. Straight lines are found in the pieces, folds, and effects seen from the bridal
dress body. While the curved line is more dominant in the embroidery motif made.

The accent that emerges from the clothing details in the form of sasiranganfabric is used on the
body parts and the embroidery application arrangement which is placed on the parts that focus on the
application of the embroidery technique. Small embroidery applications are placed on the chest and
spread in parts of the skirt made in large quantities, while medium and large embroidery applications
are made in large quantities but only spread on the skirt. This is intended so that the rhythms
generated from the placement of embroidery applications can be seen and become the main focus of
this outfit.

References

1. Daryanti, Sukamto.; MembuatBusanaAnak,; 2003
2. Djati, Pratiwi; dkk,; PoladasardanPecahPola,; 2001
3. Ernawati, Izwemi; Nelmira, Weni.;Tata BusanaJilid 1. DirektoratPembinaanSekolahMenengahKejuruan :

Jakarta; 2008
4. Ernawati, Izwemi; Nelmira, Weni.;Tata BusanaJilid 2. DirektoratPembinaanSekolahMenengahKejuruan :

Jakarta; 2008
5. Ernawati, Izwemi; Nelmira, Weni.;Tata BusanaJilid 3. DirektoratPembinaanSekolahMenengahKejuruan :

Jakarta; 2008
6. Fathnur Sani K (2016). MetodologiPenelitianFarmasiKomunitasdanEksperimental.
7. Goetpoespo. (2005). PuspaRagamBusanaPemilihanBahanTekstil.
8. Suherseno, Hery; DesainBordiruntukKerahdanManset; 2005
9. Soekarno; Lanawati, Basuki.; PanduanMembuatDesainIlustrasiBusana (TeknikDasar, Terampil, Mahir);

2008
10. Seman, Syamsiar.; SasiranganKainKhas Kalimantan Selatan; 2010
11. Yuliarma; The Art of Embriodery Designs; 2016

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Proceeding Indonesian Textile Conference

(International Conference)
3rd Edition Volume 1 2019

http://itc.stttekstil.ac.id
ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

Flexible Maternity Garment Using Design Details and
Closures

Nur Farhana bt Mohd Puzi 1*, Dr Suzanne Maria Stankard and Dr Asliza bt Aris
1 Kolej Kemahiran Tinggi Mara Rembau, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia

* Correspondence: [email protected] ; Tel.: +06-06-697-0426

Abstract : The proposed research of Flexible Maternity Garment using Design Details and Closures is
a study of maternity garments that are flexible to be worn by pregnant mothers. The objective of the
research is to provide pregnant women with clothing that is valued, as it can be worn from pre until
post-natal. Therefore, the flexibility of the garment is the innovation of the proposed product, in
which the garment can expand and shrink using different design details and closures. The method of
the research is through clinical and fashion data collections as well as distributed survey to
respondents whom have experienced pregnancy. These data collected were categorized into three
criteria (the design details, closures/fastenings and characteristics) that should be applied and avoid
on maternity garments. The results of the analysis were used as guidelines in developing the
proposed product. The process of developing each garment includes idea development, toiling, pre-
test and prototype. As an end product, the researcher created different flexi maternity garments with
differing fastening and design details.

Keywords : maternity wear, closures, fastenings, flexible

ISBN : 978-623-91916-0-3

1. Introduction

This research proposed a project product of maternity wear. From what the researcher had
identified, the fashion of maternity wear collection are developing in the local market, however, not
all garments are practical and meets the preferences of the mothers. In order to fulfill this issue, the
researcher proposed a study of Flexible Maternity Wear through Design Details and Fastenings.

1.1. Problem Statement

The maternity wear collections that the researcher intends to propose fulfill the problems that
had been identified in the fashion market in Malaysia and among the expected mothers regarding
maternity garments. Through the pilot observation at local boutiques and pilot snow-ball surveys, the
following problem had been identified by the researcher regarding maternity wear in the local
market.

1.1.1. Lack of maternity wear collection in local boutique

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There are minimal local boutiques that retail maternity wear. Mothers sometimes have trouble in
looking for maternity garments. According to an article by Feride Hikmet Atak, an actress had once
stated that she had hard time in finding suitable maternity garment during her pregnancy. (Feride,
2011)

1.1.2. Higher demand of maternity wear due to women’s involvement in professional practice

As Malaysia striving in developing the country, with increased access to education, employment
opportunities and changes in the socio-cultural environment, Malaysian women have progressed and
participated effectively in all aspects of development of the country. As a result of women occupying
all sectors of employment, a higher demand of maternity wear collection in fashion market has
occurred. (Sally, 2011)

1.1.3. Lack of Flexible Maternity Garment

Through pilot observation and unstructured interviews to local boutiques and expected mothers,
the majority of maternity wear in the market were designed for the mother to be worn during her
second to third trimester only. Therefore, mothers would not buy maternity garments in large
quantities, since they would only wear them during pregnancy.

1.1.4. Limited Design detail that can be adjustable in maternity garment

Through pilot observation, there are lack of adjustable closures and design detail in maternity
garment. The most common adjustable medium used in maternity wear are adjustable buttons at the
waist band in pants and string/band tying at the back waist and elasticated bump band in the pants.
Other design details such as pin tucks and pleats were also common, however the expansion and
shrinking effect is minimal.

1.2. Project Significance

The development of this project is to create an evergreen collection that can be worn at the
beginning of the pre-natal, first trimester until the post-natal (after pregnancy). Mothers will be able
to purchase maternity garments that can be worn at longer period. Furthermore, this will reduce the
financial burden of the mothers by purchasing fewer clothes and indirectly will support the
prevention of cloth pollution in Malaysia.

Moreover, the garments of this collection will be long lasting style. Therefore, the expected
mothers will no longer need to purchase garment that can be worn for only few months. This project
will also benefit the local fashion market, since the design will be based on the preferences of the local
desires.

2. Experimental

The researcher used both quantitative and qualitative methods to obtain information to develop
the proposed project. Quantitative method was in a form of questionnaire distribution whereas for
qualitative, the researcher made an in depth study and evaluation based on observation and
unstructured interviews. The data is used in both theoretical and practical framework.

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INTRODUCTION RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ANALYZED DATA

 Objectives, Significant  Data collection,  Accumulating data
of studies, Limitation designing strategies, (findings)
& Delimitation formulating research
question, accumulating  Accumulating (literature
 Literature Review data, Procedure in Review)
Developing Design
 Accumulating through
observation

01 02 03
INTRO METHOD ANALYZE

05 04
EVALUATE DEVELOP

EVALUATION

 Prototype making and APPLYING THE ANALYSIS DATA INTO DESIGN
Testing (PROPOSED PROJECT) & PROJECT
DEVELOPMENT

 Idea exploration and experimentation
 Experiment through draping/ technical

fashion

Diagram 1. The flowchart or process of the research

2.1. Research Strategies Design Method

In this section, the researcher focuses on designing method to obtain the variables for research
questions that had been outlined. The methods designed were based on the suitability of each
research questions.

As for the research questions related to the suitability of garments to be worn during and after
pregnancy, the method used is in a form of contextual method, whereby the research gathers

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information through secondary data. Clinical and fashion information was obtained through books
and web. The researcher did visual observation for a better understanding in maternity changes.

On the other hand, for research questions in line with only fashion, the method designs were in a
form of primary and secondary data. In order to obtain a quantitative result, the researcher had
distributed surveys among 50 respondents, to identify the preferences of the mothers, the demand of
the market and the problems in maternity wear. Data were also obtained through visual observation,
journals and articles related to fashion trend, market and maternity wear.

2.2. Accumulating Data (findings)

In this section, the data gathers were accumulated and will be used to develop the proposed
project. The data were based on the survey distributed to 50 respondents as sample for this research
that was among mothers who are currently or have been pregnant. The distribution was made in
Klang valley and bureau area to all races since the aim of the product was design for local market.

2.2.1. Accumulating data from literature review

Referring to literature review, the researcher had identified certain guidelines to be applied in
project development. The fabrics, colours, design details and closures required in maternity garments
were the highlight among the data that the researcher obtained. The characteristics that the researcher
will take note in developing the garment is the usage of cotton or cotton blend as the fabric for the
garment making since cotton is a fully breathable fabric, which it is cooler when worn in hot
conditions. (Smeader, 2010). Furthermore, the researcher aims in applying warm and cool colour such
as reddish maroon and bluish, greyish due to the positive impact of the colour on the person wearing
the garment.

Suitable closures and design details were used in exploring the flexibility of the garments.
Closures such as zip and buttons, design details such as flares and pleats will be used as medium for
shrinking and expanding effect in development process. These details were collected from The
Fashion Designer's Directory of Shape and Style aswell as Pattern Making for Fashion Design (4th
edition). (Travers-Spencer & Zaman, 2008) (Joseph-Armstrong, 2006)

According to a thesis study by Marilyn C. Handley (2006), the researcher stated two different
changes that occurred during pregnancy. They are physical and emotional changes. The most obvious
physical changes people are aware is the growth of abdomen. However, the early changes also
include amenorrhea, breast enlargement and tenderness, nausea and vomiting, urinary frequency and
fatigue. (Handley,2006). As pregnancies progresses, the changes that most mothers are concerned of
are the changes in complexion, body size and shape, changes in gait, and loss of attractiveness. These
changes are generally addressed during prenatal care and are described as minor and are limited in
duration. The symptoms generally resolve without major consequences. (Handley, 2006).

2.2.1. Accumulating data from literature review

After completing the data collection and survey, the researcher had made an in depth study
evaluation based on pilot observation and unstructured interviews. The pilot observation was to
visits to local maternity boutiques and other fashion areas in Putrajaya and Klang valley, in order to

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be updated with the local fashion trend, maternity wear style and flexible fastening used in garments.
The unstructured interviews were done among women who have experienced pregnancy. The
content of the interview were regarding the physical and emotional changes during pregnancy,
problems that they faced during pregnancy and existed maternity garment in market.

Furthermore, based on the analysis from data collected in chapter 4, the researcher had listed the
criteria and closures that should be applied and avoid in designing the proposed product. The criteria
are the design details, closures and the preferred characteristic on maternity wear.

2.3. Method of Developing the Proposed Product through Fashion Practice

In this section, the researcher will develop the design based on the criteria that had been listed
from the data collected from literature review and the result of data analysis

Applying the Analysis Data Into Design (Proposed Project) & Project Development

Creating Guidelines
Identifying the criteria based on data collected and result of survey

Idea Development
Idea development through sketches and draping

Toile making
- The 2D sketches were transform into toile.
- Placement of design detail and the flexibility of the garment
- Pre-Evaluation was carried out to test the flexibilty of the garment

Produce Proposed Protoytpe
- 4 Proposed product were produced

- Evaluation on the product

Diagram 2. Process of Fashion Practice

The early idea development was through sketches and draping. In the sketching process, the
researcher had used computer software (adobe illustrator and photoshop) to place the lines and
shapes on croquis (figure). The sketches were then refined using collage and mix media. The 2D
sketches were transformed into toile, which is a mockup of the garment, to test the pattern and ensure
that the garment fits properly before it is cut out onto the real fabric and constructed. The adjustments
of the garments were done in this process. The further step was to produce four garments. The
garment was then evaluated based on the mother’s opinion and views

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3. Results and Discussion

In this section the researcher had experiment and explores different design and materials
to produce the proposed product. In this chapter, the researcher had arranged the process into design

selection (idea development), transforming the 2D image into 3D prototype, refining the product to
meet the proposed criteria and pre-evaluation.

These data were obtained through distribution of questionnaires. The results from the
respondents were than analyzed in SPSS in order to calculate the percentage of the respondents’

problem and requirement. Based on the results of the survey, the researcher had identified the
characteristics, closures and design detail that should be applied in developing the product.

3.1. Analyzed data for Design Development

The researcher had listed the criteria that should be applied and avoid in designing the proposed
product based on the result of the survey. These criteria are the design details, closures and the
preferred characteristics on maternity wear.

Table 1. List of Criteria based on the Data Analysis

CRITERIA APPLIED AVOID

Design Detail - Pintuck - Belt

- Flares - Sashes

- Pleats

- Hidden Pocket

Closures - Zip - Hook & eye

- Buttons

- Snap buttons

Characteristics of - Flexible

Garments - Expand and shrink (must occur at

bust & abdomen)

- Comfort

- Suitable fabric

- Long Lasting

Criteria to meet the - Expansion and shrink effect on the - Complicated

Physical changes of abdomen and chest placements of

mothers - The fastenings should be practical, fastenings such as zip/

such as neckline opening, centre front button at the back

opening

Materials - Breathable fabrics, e.g cotton - Avoid heavy weight

- Medium weight fabric materials as tops

- Easily care garments, such as

- Minimal Motifs/ pattern must be denim

placed suitable to mothers body

silhouette

3.2. Design Selection / Process 237

In this section, the designer focused on developing ideas through different techniques.

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3.2.1. Developing Basic Design

In this process, the researcher had done some sketches in using different media such as mix
media, collage and computer software (Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop). The idea was to obtain
form and silhouette of maternity garment and the flexibility of the garment (expand and shrinking
effect)

The researcher had chosen the basic elements and principles of art and designs as the subject
matter. The design was then refine based on the criteria that had been outlined from the analyzed
data (as shown in Table 1).

3.2.2. Placement of Motifs into Design

The researcher had also explored placement of lines motifs to obtain silhouette and form. The
researcher had explored different techniques using sketches and computer to obtained different
silhouette and illusion. The medium and technique used in this process were mix media, collage and
Adobe Photoshop.

Figure 1. Placement of Lines to obtain silhouette and form

The subsequent step of Idea exploration is the researcher refines the design to meet the criteria
and aims of the research. The designer used the process of add and remove to refine the design. The
design must be functional and have aesthetic value. The criteria were of the followings:

- Functional : Flexible: expanding and shrinking effect (chest & abdomen)
- Aesthetic : Minimal design motifs

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-
Figure 2. Refining the silhouette to meet the criteria (Design 1)

Figure 3. Refining the silhouette to meet the criteria (Design 2)

Figure 4. Refining the silhouette to meet the criteria 239

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