THE MAGAZINE OF GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
24
ORIGINAL
RECIPES
MEETINGS
With 16 talented chefs
DISCOVERY
Products of excellence
of the island of Beauty
VISITS
Pietra Brewery
Welcome to the Farm
DOSSIER
Corsica,
the passion of wine
EVENTS
The 150 years
of the Cap Corse Mattei
ITINERARIES
Strolls on the Authentic
Senses Road and in the most
beautiful cities of Corsica
ESCALES
Hotel des Gouverneurs,
Hotel Demeure Les Mouettes,
Hotel Castel Brando,
Acquale Hotel…
SPÉCIAL
CORSICA
N°17 • JULY-AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2022
L 16802 - 17 - F: 5,00 - RD
L 16802 - 17 - F: 5,00 - RD
mediani - Illustration G. Laroche
EDITO
For the summer of 2022, the MasterChef team will take you on a
discovery tour of Corsica, the island for every passion! A land of
adventure, meeting and sharing, Corsica is nicknamed the Island
of Beauty for good reason! This Mediterranean land also provides
a symphony of flavours to delight your senses, and central to its
identity are the delicious aromas of a local cuisine with a big personality. To
help you discover Corsican gastronomy, this edition features sixteen gastronomic
encounters with talented chefs. A real culinary journey of only the highest quality,
using local products from land and sea.
Our authentic Corsica abounds in products and skills that are the heritage of its
rich history and its geographical location in the heart of the Mediterranean. The
Corsicans have long been able to extract the riches of nature and work with them
to create unique products. Citrus fruits, flours, honeys, cold meats, cheeses...
Let’s go and discover the essential products from the island of Beauty and meet
those who represent them, such as the Inter Bio Corse association, which works
every day to support and encourage the agriculture they believe in, the Regional
Chamber of Agriculture of Corsica, which aims to make Corsica a leading region
in respect for the environment, the Syndicat de Défense et de Promotion des
Charcuteries de Corse AOP (Union for the Defence and Promotion of Corsican
PDO Delicatessen Meats) «Salameria Corsa» (Corsican sausage) which fiercely
defends an ancestral pastoral tradition, and finally, sheep farmers who are
passionate about Corsican suckling lamb. They all put passion into their work to
offer you authentic and quality products.
In our section on wine and interviews with winegrowers, you will also realise
that the Corsican vineyard seems to be the most exotic and southern of the
French vineyards. A mountain in the Mediterranean, the island of Beauty offers
a kaleidoscope of natural environments which in turn define the originality and
personality of the wines. Let’s discover this exceptional wine growing region.
Venture along the Route des Sens Authentiques, the Authentic Sensations Trail,
to discover another vision of the island of Beauty and taste its local products. You
won’t be disappointed with the trip! To help you discover Corsica in a unique
way, we have created original gourmet and tourist itineraries for the main towns
of the island.
We would particularly like to thank Mrs Angèle Bastiani, Mr Pascal Acquaviva
and Mr Olivier Luchini from the ATC as well as Mr Dominique Livrelli and Mrs
Marie-Pierre Bianchini from the ODARC. Finally, a big thank you to the historian
Antoine Franzini for his invaluable help.
Enjoy reading!
The MasterChef Magazine team
1
INTERVIEWS
DOMINIQUE
LIVRELLI
Dominique Livrelli, President of ODARC What criteria did you use for the restaurant label
What is ODARC? «Gusti di corsica»?
ODARC is a Public Industrial and Commercial Establishment (EPIC) The work of labelling is underway. The «Gusti di Corsica» label
under the supervision of the Collectivity of Corsica. The Office’s will be awarded to island restaurants that stand out for the quality
projects are carried out for the benefit of the Collectivity within the
local government’s guidelines. ODARC is the coordinating body for of the Corsican products used in the preparation of their dishes.
agricultural development policies and all agricultural development This label will guarantee in particular that restaurant owners
actions carried out in Corsica. It has a very broad remit: drawing
up multi-annual and annual agricultural intervention programmes, use at least 70% of products of Corsican origin in their menu,
creating and managing a network of development agents, managing that certified products will be promoted and that the names will
experimentation and research stations, guiding agricultural land
policy, scrutinising a large part of the measures of the second pillar be respected. The chef must also be able to explain the origin
of the CAP, particularly aid for setting up and modernising farms, of the products to the customers. Quality audits will be carried
supporting production sectors, and promoting Corsican agriculture... out in the labelled establishments to verify compliance with the
Since 2007, ODARC has also been approved as a Paying Agent (PA) commitments. This label aims to be the showcase of Corsican
for the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD)
for all the measures included in the Corsican Rural Development gastronomy that values the resources of the local region.
Programme (PDRC).
How do you explain the fact that Corsica has so many
Why did you create the Authentic Sensations Trail?
Within the framework of its actions to promote agriculture and rural products with a protected designation of origin?
areas, the Office of Agricultural and Rural Development of Corsica Corsica is a land with a long agricultural tradition and is full of
(ODARC) wanted to take on the project of the Authentic Sensations products and skills that are a testament to its history and its
Trail, or «A Strada di I Sensi», as part of a wider long-term strategy
that would enable agriculture and crafts to highlight their heritage geographical location in the heart of the Mediterranean. It is also
and the economic strength of their products. The objective was to a land with a strong identity that has long been a protectionist
promote and develop direct sales, but also to create a collective bulwark against the globalisation of the world economy. In this
project to promote products, trade, areas and more broadly Corsica
itself. Tourism is an important sector in the regional economy and in context, the Collectivity of Corsica has opted, since 2002, for
recent years there has been a shift in demand. One of the challenges
of developing the Authentic Sensations Trail is to enable inland a model of agricultural development based on differentiation,
municipalities to benefit from greater tourist activity, to extend the
length of the «season», to increase not only the attractiveness of aiming to enhance natural, heritage and cultural resources by
rural areas, but also their year-round activity due to the impact on taking advantage of its two major assets: quality and identity.
the local economy and employment. That is why it asked ODARC to take on the project of implementing
this policy and making it one of its strong points in terms of
agricultural interventions. Certification of products does help
to differentiate them from standard production methods, giving
them the best chance to be valued and consequently improve the
income of producers. It is proving to be an effective tool for the
protection of skills and therefore the sustainability of products,
and the production activities that accompany them and which are
located in rural areas, often in difficult environments. Finally, the
officially branded range of island products is a strong element in
the construction of the island’s gastronomic image.
2
ANGÈLE
BASTIANI
What are the aims of the Corsica Tourism Agency (ATC)? Angèle Bastiani, President of ATC
The Corsica Tourism Agency has four roles: to promote our island within
France and abroad, with marketing, digital ads, promotional campaigns, or by land of business tourism, thanks to the increase in quality of the hotel fabric
welcoming journalists, tour operators and travel agents... The ATC’s second supported by the ATC, which has been adapted over the last few years to remote
role is to develop and enhance our island’s tourism offering, by providing working or conference uses. On the other hand, Corsica is not and will never be
assistance to public or private project leaders, financial assistance, advice and a mass tourism destination, with impersonal superstructures of thousands of
support. This role is designed to make the tourism offering as competitive rooms, dense crowds of people inclined towards overconsumption, or soulless
and sustainable as possible. The third role of the ATC is ongoing monitoring dormitory towns.
and analysis of the development of tourism on our island. We use surveys of Does ATC have a strategy for sustainable tourism?
ATC’s strategy is one of tourism deconcentration. Tourism on the island suffers
visitor numbers, image studies, and regular analyses of consumer behaviour, from one negative feature: concentration. Tourists all come at the same time,
which make the Tourism Observatory a real decision-making tool to help tailor with a peak in the first two weeks of August, they all go to the same places, to
tourism strategy to market trends. The final role, which underlies all the others, the most famous «spots» on the social networks, and they all come from the
is to coordinate the various tourism stakeholders on our island. This is carried same social catchment areas, as mentioned above: 70% French, with a real
out in particular through the tourist offices, professionals, carriers, Chambers preponderance from Île de France and the southern PACA region. That makes it
of Commerce, marinas, and training organisations; so many partners work necessary to consider a strategy of deconcentration, with a view to welcoming
alongside the ATC to build a dynamic and positive tourism policy together. tourists all year round, because Corsica has assets in every season; to redirect
them across the island in routes that smooth out the traffic flows, and protect
How do you explain the fact that Corsica has become a very attractive our natural sites, and finally to attract a greater variety of tourists, from all over
France and all over Europe, or even the whole world. All of our work feeds into
destination for visitors both from France and overseas? this deconcentration strategy.
The first of these reasons is obvious: our island is a wonderful place like no
other. Our varied landscapes - coastal, mountainous, rural and urban - are Would you say that Corsica is a gourmet destination?
undeniably breath-taking. Corsica is called the «Island of Beauty» with good Corsica is an island of real gastronomy and delicacies. It is above all a terroir, a
reason. These beautiful landscapes are our most appealing feature for tourists, food region, with producers who work on a personal level, artisanal skill, and
but they are not the only reason why visitors return to the island. Corsican a strong connection between humans and the land. This close connection has
culture is unique and very diverse and the particular customs, language and generated many recipes, and over the years chefs have emerged as masters
traditions, gastronomy, very specific products and flavours, and the overall of these unique flavours. Corsican dishes reflect the complexity and variety
heritage and history of our island, are very important reasons for success of our land: from fish to cold cuts, from cheese to olive oil, from chestnuts
to citrus fruits, Corsica has something to satisfy all tastes and every type of
and loyalty amongst visitors. And then there is the geographical advantage. food enthusiast. The cornerstone of our culinary tradition has always been
conviviality, sharing and the desire to show the world what we are capable of
Corsica is located less than 2 hours by plane from most of the major European offering.
capitals, in the heart of the Mediterranean. French tourists are now regulars,
and represent almost 70% of the annual contingent, with a large proportion
of affinity visitors, i.e. people who have a link with the island beyond a simple
tourist visit. The remaining 30% come mainly from Europe: Italy, Germany,
Belgium, Switzerland, and Scandinavian countries in particular. Our aim, in
order to vary our clientele and the type of tourist consumption, is to welcome
more foreign visitors in the coming years, particularly outside the summer
period.
What types of tourism are available in Corsica?
Corsica is a territory that lends itself to a wide range of discoveries and
activities. Seaside activities are only a small part of the things to do on our
island, although many tourists still come for the beaches. Corsica can be a great
place for sports, especially for outdoor activities, from windsurfing to trail
running, cycling or diving. In a less active but equally pleasant way, Corsica is a
land of discovery, with a thousand landscapes made up of forests, lakes, snow-
covered peaks, mountain pastures, heathland, ponds, beaches of fine sand,
rocks or pebbles. Corsica is a land of culture, with events of all kinds, musical,
theatrical, and artistic with national and international influences. Corsica is a
land of heritage, notably through its buildings, its churches, its Genoese towers,
its citadels, but also its historical and archaeological heritage. Corsica is a great
land of gastronomy and oenology of course, with quality products, grown,
made or cooked by passionate and professional enthusiasts. Corsica is also a
3
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SUMMARY
Interviews Vineyards p.132 Ajaccio Visit
p.136 Bastia
p.02 With Dominique p.62 The corsican p.142 Bonifacio p.174 Pietra
p.146 Balagne
Livrelli, President of ODARC winegrower p.148 Calvi Saga
p.152 Ile Rousse
p.03 With Angèle Winegrower evasion p.156 Porto-Vecchio p.170 Cap Corse Mattei
Bastiani, President p.74 Clos Culombu Address book Stopover
of the ATC p.78 Clos Landry
p.80 Château Prince Pierre p.160 Our favourite p.182 Hotel Les
Discovery p.84 Domaine Terra
places Gouverneurs
p.06 Corsica, the di Catoni
Art and gastronomy Events
all passions island p.90 The cellar of Aléria
p.94 Domaine de Perretti p.166 Corsican crafts p.184 Not to be missed
Gastronomic encounters
della Rocca Cocktails
p.08 With sixteen
p.98 Clos Teddi p.168 Made in Corsica
exceptional chefs p.102 Domaine de
Products Torraccia
p.42 Corsica, p.106 Castellu di Baricci
authentic land Meeting
Trend p.108 CIVC, discover
p.50 Meeting with Corsican wines
Inter Bio Corse Meeting
Meetings p.112 The Safer Corse,
p.52 Corsican suckling a fundamental role
lamb, a subtle taste Itineraries
p.58 Pig breeding p.116 Walks in Corsica,
in Corsica, a secular a place of meetings
know-how
p.118 The Authentic
Interview
Senses Route
p.60 With Hélène Beretti,
Director General of the
Corsican Regional Chamber
of Agriculture
5
DISCOVERY
CORSICA
THE ISLAND FOR
ALL THE PASSIONS
At its best in every season, Corsica is a unique island,
a land of adventure, meetings and sharing. This deservedly so. Corsica is dotted with hillsides and has its own grape
Mediterranean land is nicknamed the Island of Beauty
for good reason! Visiting Corsica means treating your varieties, suitable for its granite, limestone and schist soil. Corsica’s
senses to a thousand new experiences, enjoying a
cuisine full of flavours and tradition, discovering a well-preserved nine appellations d’origines contrôlées wines complement the cuisine
naturalheritage, the wildbeauty of its forests and mountains, theclarity
of its turquoise waters... Staying in Corsica means soaking up its rich and delight the palate. To quench your thirst, you can also drink
culture, meeting its inhabitants who are happy to help you discover the three types of water produced in Corsica, Saint-Georges, Zilia and the
soul of their island, admiring the charm of its villages and breathtaking famous Orezza, or local beers such as Pietra produced from chestnut
landscapes, between land and sea... With its surface area of 8,722 km2, flour, Serena and Colomba. Fish such as bass, sea bream, red mullet,
it is one of the largest islands in the western Mediterranean after Sicily azimizu (Corsican bouillabaisse) or sardines, seafood, lobster from
and Sardinia. It is located 90 km from the Italian port of Piombino, Centuri or Bonifacio, oysters and mussels from the pools at Diane and
170 km northwest of Nice and 12 km from Sardinia. The dominant
Mediterranean climate covers almost two thirds of its area. Summers Urbino can be enjoyed all along the coast. A meal in Corsica always
are very hot and sunny up to 36°C and the average water temperature ends on a sweet note, tortas (dried fruit tarts), Pastizzu with the
is 25°C. Winters are mild and rainfall is spread over a small number of sweet smell of aniseed or Fiadone, the famous brocciu and lemon tart.
days, 50 to 70 days per year. The winds that blow the most in Corsica Other delicacies and typical gastronomic treasures to be savoured are
are the libecciu, the sirocco and the tramontane. Corsica is made up of
two departments, Haute Corse with Bastia as its capital and Corse de chestnut honey, olive oils that have bottled the sunshine, jams, myrtle
Sud with Ajaccio as its capital. About 300,000 people live on the island,
proud speakers of Corsican. The main activities of Corsica are tourism, liqueurs and the famous Corsican pomelos and clementines.
which represents 12% of the GDP, and agriculture, the cultivation of
clementines, kiwis, chestnuts and raising sheep, cattle, pigs etc. THE WILD AND UNSPOILT BEAUTY OF NATURE
Corsica is the island of all superlatives. Small deserted coves, headlands
A SYMPHONY OF FLAVOURS TO DELIGHT YOUR SENSES and huge bays, endless white sandy beaches, an infinite variety of
Corsica would not be what it is without its gastronomy, with the bathing spots stretch along more than 1,000 km of coastline. Its waters
delicious aromas of a local cuisine full of character. Anyone who has
not tasted Corsican charcuterie is missing out on a real treat for the are among the clearest in the world and its mountains are the highest
taste buds. Its unique flavour is due to the local pigs, which are raised
in semi-freedom and feed on food from the maquis. Coppa, lonzu, in the Mediterranean. Everywhere you look its unspoilt nature is home
salsiccia, prizuttu and figatelli have a subtle and fragrant taste and
an undeniable quality. Cheeses are another unmissable speciality of to rare wildlife, vast forests and over 2,000 plant species. Almost half
Corsica. The famous Brocciu PDO, a creamy fresh cheese made from of the island’s territory is classified as a natural park ideal for hiking,
sheep’s and/or goat’s milk, can be enjoyed fresh or in savoury or especially on the GR20, which is renowned for its difficulty. The well
sweet preparations to enhance dishes. You can also enjoy hard goat’s known Scandola marine reserve is very popular for scuba diving.
cheese from Sartène, ewe’s cheese from Alta Rocca, semi-soft Niolo,
Calinzana and Bastilicacciu. Among the other gastronomic treasures These natural treasures make Corsica a paradise for nature and water
of the island are Corsican wines which can hold their own against the
great wines from the mainland, they are known all over the world and sports for thrill seekers. Corsica is a land of adventure. You can hike
on some of the most beautiful marked trails in the world, mountain
bike through wild forests, ride on 2,000 km of trails open to horse
riding, or go diving to discover the marine corals. Between the sea
and the mountains, the road reveals sublime views: villages perched
on the sea, beaches nestled in coves, Genoese towers silhouetted on
the horizon. Cape Corsica, the Agriates desert, the Mare a Monti and
Mare a Mare paths that cross Corsica from coast to coast, the protected
archipelago of the Lavezzi islands, made up of 23 islands and islets of
breathtaking beauty, the Aiguilles Bavella, the «calanches» of Piana...
All these are accessible to lovers of unforgettable walks. A diver’s
paradise, Corsica’s underwater biotopes are particularly rich, with
an abundance and diversity of flora and fauna. The most popular dive
6
sites are the Gulf of Porto and the paradise beaches of the South East.
All along the coast you can practice water sports such as jet skiing,
water skiing, sea fishing and windsurfing. While Corsica is well known
for its magnificent beaches, its winding mountain streams also await
the most athletic canyoning fans. The waterfalls and natural pools with
their crystal-clear waters will appeal to people who love water sports.
A LAND OF CULTURE AND TRADITION
Corsica’s history is long, rich and complex and its cultural heritage
is immense. Romanesque chapels in Castagniccia, Baroque churches
in Bastia, fortifications in Bonifacio or the citadel in Calvi, the past
has left its mark on even the most remote villages on the island.
Discovering the Corsican cities nestled in the shelter of their citadels
is an experience you will never forget. Bastia and its old port where
boats bob against a backdrop of colourful houses protected by the
lofty majesty of the Saint Baptiste church. The Ile Rousse and its
string of red porphyry islets which gave its name to this city wanted
by Pasquale Paoli, the father of the Corsican nation. Calvi, the legacy
of four centuries of Genoese domination with its massive citadel
planted on a rock overlooking the port. Ajaccio, which perpetuates
the memory of the flamboyant emperor Bonaparte, has contributed
to giving Corsica a worldwide reputation. Porto-Vecchio with its
turquoise waters, its gulf and its Genoese citadel. Bonifacio is famous
for its large white limestone cliffs and its citadel overlooking the
sea. The Catholic religion is still an integral part of the Corsican
culture and way of life. Almost every hamlet has its own chapel, and
masses are celebrated in the parish churches, many of which are
remarkable for their architecture. From Bonifacio to the villages of
Cap Corse, the religious brotherhoods, some of which are more than
seven centuries old, still perpetuate the tradition of processions. The
most poignant is that of Sartene. While the traditional songs, often
improvised, reflect the struggles of the past and the harshness of the
way of life, Corsican polyphony is above all the «paghjella», a song
that brings together three tones of male voices that complement and
harmonise with each other. The younger generations have started
singing again. After Canta U populu Corsu, polyphonic groups such
as I Muvrini, A Filetta or the Gjami are now bringing these traditional
forms of musical expression to life. For fun-filled evenings, the island
of Beauty offers a lively nightlife, many festivals of theatre and music,
traditional, classical, religious, jazz, rock and even techno!
7
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
8
LA CORSE
THE ISLAND
OF A THOUSAND
FLAVOURS
Famous for its sumptuous landscapes, Corsica has also forged a strong gourmet reputation,
combining tradition and modernity. From mountain guesthouses to Michelin star restaurants,
its cuisine offers a rich palette of culinary treasures, an integral part of its island heritage. On
the Ile de Beauté, traditions are alive and well and contribute to the food culture, which holds
a central place in the region. Stemming from an ancestral know-how, food traditions based
on sharing, family meals and generous proportions, inspired by Italian and Mediterranean
influences, Corsican cuisine (A Cucina Corsa) is passed on from generation to generation. Over
the centuries, and over the rhythm of the seasons and religious festivals, Corsican women have
developed a simple, varied, unique and delicious cuisine which perfectly illustrates the strong
identity of the island and its inhabitants. This sun-drenched cuisine is centred around the
excellent products of a thoroughly authentic region. While Corsica’s history is closely linked
to the exceptional products from its mountains and countryside - chestnuts, citrus fruits,
fine pork meats, ewe’s milk cheese, wild herbs from the scrubland - talented chefs have also
successfully managed to showcase all the delicate and tasty shellfish, crustaceans and fish
the Mediterranean Sea has to offer. Corsica has forged a strong culinary identity, achieving
a delicate marriage of flavours and scents combining authenticity, generosity, quality and
finesse. Along with the best Corsican chefs, men and women passionate about food, tradition
and creation, we offer you a food journey in harmony with the rhythm of this unique island
which will certainly awaken your taste buds!
Writer: Sylvie Heullant - Photos: Rémy Cortin
9
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
AJACCIO
LE CABANON
CHEF NADINE MICHELI
A small terrace facing the famous citadel of Ajaccio is the
spot where Nadine Micheli has chosen to make you taste
her delicious cuisine made with homemade products.
This unusual restaurant clearly displays the three
main vocations of its owners: fisherman, farmer and
restaurateur. From land or water to the plate in a simple
step!
In an old single-storey building transformed into a kitchen, with a THE CHEF’S RECCOMMENDED ADDRESSES
terrace accommodating around 15 seats, chef Nadine Micheli, who Sheep: Jean-Jacques Bartoli in Bastelicaccia
usually works alone in the kitchen, devotes all her energy and know- Veal: Paul Salini in Ajaccio
how to producing food made with passion, with a Mediterranean Nustral pork and PDO farmhouse sausages: Félix Torre in Cuttoli Cortichiato
theme, in harmony with the features of the product. Nadine was Saffron : Aurélie Avignon in Venaco
born in Marseille, where she lived until she turned 18. Her father was Organic vegetables: Olivier Segonne in Petreto Bicchisano
Corsican and her mother Sicilian. Her teenage dream was to raise Local fishery: Loïc Terrier in Ajaccio
goats with her friends, but fate decided otherwise. Her professional Cow’s milk: Cedric Rafini in Sari d’Orcino
career began in Ajaccio at the age of 22, with a pizza van whose
reputation quickly spread beyond the parking lot where it was MENUS
parked. It was at this time that she met the man who was to become Average meal price: 50 €
her partner, Loïc Terrier. Having lost touch for a few years, they met
again in 2006. Loïc is a fisherman on a small pier in the gulf of the Le Cabanon
Cité Impériale and, in 2009, he suggested she open a restaurant in 4 boulevard Danièle Casanova, 20000 Ajaccio
a small space in front of the fort, where she would cook his catch Phone: +33(0)4 95 22 55 90
of the day. Nadine has always loved cooking and entertaining her
friends, so she decided to embark on this new adventure. Despite
being a self-taught chef, she realized that she had to learn the basics
of the trade, so she trained with her chef friends and read a lot of
cookery books. An internship with the renowned chef Bernard
Pacaud consolidated her new vocation and enabled her to improve
her culinary knowledge. While her technique has developed along
with the dishes she proposes, the ambiance remains the same.
There is no fuss at Le Cabanon, Loïc fishes, Nadine cooks and
recently they have both delved into market gardening. In 2019,
finding an opportunity in the midst of the health crisis, Nadine
embarked on an agricultural training course in Corte, which led
to a vocational diploma, in charge of an agricultural holding. In
January 2021, on a piece of land loaned by the Urban Community of
Ajaccio (Communauté d’Agglomération du Pays Ajaccien), situated
5 minutes from the restaurant, she launched her urban market
garden on 4,500 m2 of land, and began growing organic produce,
with the help of Loïc (who is fully committed to the cause when
he is not at sea): around 1,500 strawberry, raspberry, blueberry,
grape, melon, watermelon, tomato, courgette, lettuce, baby greens,
arugula, carrot, parsnip, potato, sweet potato, chard, beet, squash
and aromatic plants... There is therefore no need to look very far
to find where Nadine draws her inspiration: in the seasonal nature
of her market garden production and Loïc’s daily fishing. While
fish and vegetables are central to her Mediterranean cuisine, she
has expanded her short menu (a guarantee of freshness) to include
a few dishes based on Corsican meat, which she likes to use in all
its parts, including offal. When the weather is not so good, she
welcomes guests in a small room situated on the next street.
10
CONCHIGLIONI
SPIDER CRAB
Ingredients for 4 people:
1 kg spider crab • 300 g conchiglioni • 60 g frozen butter • For the sauce: 80 g butter • 10 cl Cognac
• 1 yellow onion • 1 bird’s eye chilli • 1 tbsp tomato concentrate • 300 g crushed or fresh tomatoes • Spider crab cooking water
• For the filling: 35 g butter • 35 g flour • 400 g Jerusalem artichoke • 250 g milk • 1 garlic clove • 20 g parsley • Espelette chilli pepper
• Salt • To decorate: Carrots • Parsley • Spider crab meat.
Preparation time: 3 hrs - Cooking: 2 hrs 45 mins Food & Wine pairing
Ribbe Rosse
For the spider crab: Plunge the spider crab into unsalted boiling water and cook for 10 min. Remove the
shell of the spider crab. Keep back the cooking water for the sauce. Keep the crab meat for the filling. Clos Culombu 2017
For the sauce: Place the shelled legs and body parts in a pot with butter. Brown over a low heat and deglaze
with cognac. Add the chopped onion, the bird’s eye pepper, the tomato concentrate and crushed or fresh
tomatoes. Moisten with 1 l of the spider crab cooking water and reserve the remaining water for cooking
the conchiglioni. Simmer for 2 hours until reduced by half. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary. Keep to
one side. For the filling: Melt the butter on a low heat in a saucepan. Add the flour and whisk for 5 mins, do
not colour. Mix with 250 g of Jerusalem artichoke pulp previously cooked in milk, then drained and mashed.
Season with salt and Espelette chilli pepper, the grated garlic and the chopped parsley. Add the spider crab
meat and mix. Leave to cool then fill the pasta. For the conchiglioni: Cook the pasta in the spider crab
cooking water with salt, for 2 mins less than indicated on the packaging instructions. Cool them rapidly after
draining, incorporating the frozen butter. Top each conchiglioni with filling. To decorate: 5 mins before
serving, place the conchiglioni on a spider crab sauce base in a round bowl. Cover and leave on a low heat.
Dispose the conchiglioni on the plates, top with sauce, decorate with finely chopped carrots, parsley, chives
and spider crab meat.
11
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
AJACCIO
A NEPITA
CHEF SIMON ANDREWS
A Nepita is nestled on the corner of a small street in the
Cité Impériale, just a few steps from the Law Courts. Its
reputation has been established by word of mouth: a
beautiful restaurant offering delicate flavours that make
your taste buds tingle.
Although he has kept a slight British accent, chef Simon Andrews feels THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
his heart is in Corsica and has made the Île de Beauté his adopted Fish: fishermen Eric and Philippe Costa in Ajaccio
home. Originally from a small town southwest of London, at the age Permaculture grown fruit and vegetables: Sébastien Bonardi in Tavera
of 20, being passionate about cooking, the young Simon Andrews Vegetables: Léo Méssineo - Le Jardin de Léo in Ajaccio
decided to leave college to attend a hotel school and complete his Organic veal: Paul Bianchi, livestock breeder in Villanova
apprenticeship in a two-starred London restaurant called Chez Nico, Cheese and charcuterie: Mireille and Jean-André Mamelli in Sarrola
before joining the kitchens of Penny Hill Park, a 5* hotel located in Carcopino
his native town of Camberley. After feeding the All Blacks during the Aromatic herbs: Florence Weis, hunter of wild plants in Ajaccio
1998 Rugby World Cup, he set himself the challenge of discovering
the subtleties of French cuisine and moved to Beziers to work at MENUS
the Château de Lignan Michelin-starred restaurant for the summer Average à la carte price: 60 €
season. He stayed there for 8 months as second-in-command, before
moving north to join the kitchens of three-starred chef Jean-Pierre A Nepita
Bruneau in Brussels. A combination of the lack of sunshine and his 4 rue San Lazaro, 20000 Ajaccio
passion for scuba diving led him to leave Brussels for a season at the Phone: +33 (0)4 95 26 75 68
Lido in Propriano in 2003. Once he had fallen under the spell of the www.anepita.fr
Île de Beauté, he decided to settle down and found a job at the Palm
Beach restaurant on the Sanguinaires road in Ajaccio. It was there that
he met a beautiful woman, Roberta, from Ajaccio who became his wife
and the mother of his daughters. After seven years working steadily,
he left the Palm Beach restaurant just before it received a Michelin
star and decided to open his own restaurant with Roberta. This is
how A Nepita was born in 2009, in a small street in the heart of the
city, named after the wild marjoram herb of the Corsican mountains.
Despite being situated in a location without much appeal, the couple
took up the challenge wholeheartedly and the restaurant quickly
became a success. Customers were seduced by the finesse and quality
of the dishes artfully concocted by Simon, and by Roberta’s friendly
welcome. Regulars flock to A Nepita to enjoy a modern gastronomic
cuisine with delicate flavours, featuring the finest, freshest products of
the island, prepared to order, a cuisine focused mainly on seafood and
seasonal vegetables, and delicious land and sea food combinations.
Simon Andrews offers a signature cuisine that resembles his creative,
balanced, foody nature: perfectly cooked, with no superfluous details,
focusing essentially on taste. The menu, comprising 4 starters, 4 main
courses and 4 desserts, changes daily according to the market, the
catch of the day and the chef’s inspiration, with the exception of his
signature dish: a succulent grilled octopus with mashed potatoes,
Vuletta and veal stock. Catering for around twenty seats inside and
ten outside, it goes without saying that it is wise to make a reservation
to be sure not to miss out on experiencing this gourmet indulgence,
served by a chef who is passionate about taste and who uses only the
finest ingredients.
12
FILLET OF SCORPION FISH
FROM LOCAL COASTS, SERVED WITH
RAVIOLI WITH BROCCIU CHEESE AND CHARD,
SEASONED WITH ‘NEPITA’ HERBS
Ingredients for 4 people:
2 scorpion fish, approximately 800 g • For the ravioli: 100 g flour • 2 eggs • Salt, pepper • 200 g farmhouse brocciu cheese • 1 small pinch of
dried Nepita herbs • For the bouillabaisse gravy: head and bones of the scorpion fish • 1 onion • ½ fennel • 1 carrot
• 3 star anise • 80 g tomato paste • 200 ml white wine • 0.5 g Ucciani saffron • 2 l water • olive oil • For the celery puree : 200 g celeriac
• 100 g milk • 100 g cream • For the chard: 1 bunch of chard • 1 Sisco onion • 1 pinch dried Nepita herbs.
Preparation time: 1 hr / Cooking time: 45 mins Food & wine pairing
For the scorpion fish: descale, gut and cut into fillets, removing the central bone structure with descaling DZ - Domaine Zuria
tweezers. Set aside, chilled. For the ravioli: For the ravioli pasta: mix the flour, one egg and salt by hand until
smooth. Wrap with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 30 mins. For the brocciu cheese filling: mix the brocciu
cheese, one egg, a small pinch of Nepita herbs, salt and pepper. Mix with a fork. To make the ravioli: roll the
ravioli dough as thinly as possible using a pastry machine, place about 50 g of brocciu cheese on the dough and
place another sheet of ravioli dough on top. Then with a cookie cutter cut ravioli of 6 cm in diameter (1 ravioli
per person). For the bouillabaisse gravy: cut the heads and bones into pieces. Fry the chopped vegetables
and star anise in olive oil in a pan. Brown well and add the concentrated tomato paste, white wine and water.
Reduce for 45 mins, pass through a sieve and add the saffron. Leave to infuse for at least 10 mins. For the
celery puree: peel the celery and cut into small pieces roughly 2 cm in diameter. Put in a saucepan with the
cream and milk, bring to the boil and cook for 15 mins over a low heat. Mix with an electric blender to obtain a
very smooth puree. For the chard: separate and cut the white stems and green parts of the chard with a knife.
Cut the stems into squares and the green parts into strips. Cook the stems in boiling water for 6 mins and the
green parts for 1 minute. Thinly slice an onion, cook in olive oil over low heat without colouring, then add the
chard and Nepita herbs. For the dressing: cook the scorpion fish fillets on the skin side over a low heat for 8
mins, then keep them warm on a plate. Cook the ravioli in boiling water for 2 mins. Place the scorpion fish fillet
on the chard, arrange the celery purée on the side of the plate, followed by the ravioli and the bouillabaisse
gravy.
13
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
ALERIA
U SPURTINU
BISTRO POPULARE
CHEF PAUL-ANTOINE CHENOZ
In the heart of Aleria, the former capital of Corsica, the
large terrace of the U Spurtinu bistro is simply charming.
In this ideal setting for exchanges and meetings, you will
be spoilt for choice between sinking into the comfortable
club armchairs or sitting around a large keg to taste
delicious Corsican cuisine with a twist of modernity.
While this restaurant is not by the sea, it is off the beaten track, THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
out of sight, with a chic and vintage decor and a warm and Cheeses, suckling lamb: Xavier Bartoli, Domaine U Marfisola in Prunelli-di-
friendly atmosphere, which make you quickly forget its location Fiumorbo
on the road linking Bastia to the South of Corsica. U Spurtinu, Fruit and vegetables: Domaine de Nepali in Aghione
«the little basket» in Corsica, opened in 2010 by Pierre François Organic vegetables: Jacques and Monique Bariani in Aleria
Lepidi, was originally supposed to be a wine bar and delicatessen, Fish: Pierre Antoine Gougelet in Sari-Solenzara
offering quality products from Corsica. However, the concept - Beef: Jacques and Lucien Filippi, Gaec U Petricciu in Canale-di-Verde
promoting the know-how of local producers - quickly evolved Veal and lamb: Jacques Mariani in Aleria
into a small tapas-type restaurant around a glass of local wine,
and then into a restaurant showcasing local products. After the MENUS
premature death of Lepidi, his children Olivia and Alexandre, Average slate menu price: 50 €, Lunch menu: 25 €.
still students at the time and having helped their father in the 6-course discovery menu upon reservation: 60 - 70 €
restaurant since their childhood, decided to take over the reins to depending on the ingredients
breathe new life into the place. They created a new atmosphere
and baptized it «Bistro Populare», promoting a bistro-esque U Spurtinu
cuisine accessible to everyone: refined, delicious and using 425 Avenue Saint Alexandre Sauli, 20270 Aleria
products harvested from the rich local soil. Wanting to continue Phone: +33 (0)4 95 36 27 83 - https://uspurtinu.fr
the story passed down by their father, the brother and sister,
both passionate about their island’s heritage and farmers, have
modernised the menu. As for the decoration, objects from their
own family history are presented, creating a pleasant brocante
atmosphere. A new chef, Paul-Antoine Chenoz, joined the ranks
this season. Originally from Marseille and having spent a number
of years in Paris to work in the theatre, Chenoz decided after six
years on the stage to trade his actor’s hat for that of a chef ’s after
training at the renowned École Ducasse. After running his own
restaurant, the Sybaris, in the Marais district of Paris where he
reinvented classic dishes with flair, Chenoz left Paris for Belgium
in 2019 to launch a rotisserie concept. However, his plans were
halted by the health crisis, so he instead began to work as a
gourmet consultant for restaurant professionals. Being a diving
enthusiast, he arrived in Corsica last April to explore not only
the seabed but also the island’s rich food culture. He met the
young and dynamic managers of U Spurtinu shortly after his
arrival, with whom he quicky hit it off. The result is a beautiful
Mediterranean-inspired village restaurant where you can enjoy
food which is a mix between bistronomy and gastronomy,
using the finest Corsican ingredients, a cuisine which follows
the produce of the seasons and is refined, contemporary and
gourmet, with the chef ’s creative touch.
14
RACK OF LAMB IN AN
SPARAGUS HERB CRUST,
POTATO PUREE, SEASONED GRAVY
Food & wine pairing
Castellu di Baricci
2020
Ingredients for 4 people:
For the lamb: 1 whole rack of lamb • Salt • Pepper • For the gravy: Lamb trimmings and bones • Vegetable stock • Olive oil • Butter • A splash
of sherry vinegar • Aromatic herbs (thyme, bay leaves…) • Garlic • Thyme • Salt • Pepper • For the herb crust: Butter with seasonal herbs (parsley
and Nepita herbs or marjoram) • 2 tsp parmesan • For the vegetables: 500 g asparagus • 500 g small new potatoes • 75 cl 20% fat single cream.
Preparation time: 30 mins / Cooking time: 30 mins
For the gravy: Cover the bottom of a pan with olive oil and cook the lamb bones and trimmings on a high heat until the juices stick
to the bottom of the pan. Add 1 tablespoon of butter, the garlic, thyme, parsley and aromatic seasoning. Deglaze with vegetable stock
and cover with the stock to the level of the meat. Leave to simmer for 30 mins. Strain through a sieve, then put the gravy back on a
high heat and reduce until thickened. Add 1 tbsp of butter and a splash of sherry vinegar. Set aside. For the lamb: Lift the rack of
lamb, cleaning the bones well and keeping the trimmings for the gravy. Sear on all sides over a high heat until browned. Apply a strip
of herb butter to the top edge of the rack. Season with salt and pepper. Place in a fan-assisted oven at 200°C for 12 mins. Leave to
rest for 10 mins. For the herb crust: Mix the Corsican herbs and parsley and add them to the butter with salt and pepper. Add the
Parmesan cheese and spread on a sheet of baking paper. Place another sheet of baking paper over the butter to seal it between the
two sheets. Spread the butter evenly with a rolling pin to obtain a homogeneous dough. Set aside in the fridge. For the vegetables:
Clean the asparagus, peel the stalks and blanch. Then plunge the cooked asparagus into a bowl of frozen water to stop the cooking
process. Set aside. Cook the potatoes in a pan of cold water. Once cooked, after around 20 mins, mix them with a ladle of cooking
water and the single cream until you obtain a very liquid purée. Add salt. Strain through a sieve and add to the siphon. To serve: Place
asparagus sections on the bottom of the plate. Cut a piece of 3 lamb chops and place on top of the asparagus. Using the siphon, cover
the asparagus with the potato puree. Pour the seasoned gravy onto the plate just before serving.
15
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
BONIFACIO
A CHEDA
CHEF LIONEL LEBRUN
Less than 10 minutes from the bustling port of
Bonifacio, in the charm of an old Corsican Dimora,
A Cheda invites guests to take their taste buds on a
journey through modern and creative gastronomic
cuisine, with fresh local products served on their
plates, in accordance with the seasons.
MENUS In a chic and refined, unfussy atmosphere, this beautiful restaurant,
5-course U Bunifazincu menu: 69 € with its charming terrace surrounded by gardens and looking onto the
8-course Nustrale Surprise menu: 99 € swimming pool, is an ideal setting for savouring the culinary creations
9-course Prestige menu: 149 € of chef Lionel Lebrun. Lebrun prides himself on his Mediterranean
10-course Table d’Hôte menu for two people prepared and served by the cooks, cuisine with character, revamping Corsican classics and driven by his
overlooking the kitchen: 179 € overflowing inspiration to innovate traditional dishes. Not particularly
Permanent menu, average price: 80 € passionate about academic studies at school, Lionel instinctively
decided to follow in the footsteps of his grandfather (a fine cook who
Hôtel A Cheda 4* spoiled the family with his food) by entering the apprentice training
Route de Porto-Vecchio, Cavallo Morto, 20169 Bonifacio centre in his hometown of Blois in 1996 at the age of 15. Wanting to
Phone: +33(0)4 95 73 03 82 - https://acheda-hotel.com travel, the young Lionel spent a year in Germany in a Michelin-starred
restaurant after completing his apprenticeship in the Domaine de
Seillac before working in a brasserie on the banks of Lake Geneva in
Lausanne. His journey then led him to the German speaking part of
Switzerland, then to the Valais region of Switzerland. In 2004, at the
age of 24, he took his first position as chef at Roi Théodore in Porto
Vecchio, driven by his desire to discover Corsica, his mother and
grandmother’s homeland. At the end of the season, he left for Tours to
open a lounge restaurant, but his desire to return to the Île de Beauté in
Corsica persisted and after a year he returned to the kitchens of a fish
restaurant in Pinarello, Le Golfe. In 2008, he was contacted by the A
Cheda restaurant, which had just been awarded a fourth Michelin star
and was looking for a chef who could express the charming and atypical
character of the place through food. Lionel began by selecting the
best local producers and fishermen, passionate about their work and
their region, and developed an eight-hectare permaculture vegetable
garden of aromatic plants, fruits and vegetables, from which he picks
his ingredients before each service. In this food, combining products
and sensations, each element is chosen with the utmost care in order
to compose harmonious and flavoursome dishes. This rigorous chef
seeks consistency in his cooking, seasoning and presentation, and he
uses no unnecessary ingredients in his visually creative dishes. Lebrun
organizes immersions in his kitchen, each one giving two guests the
opportunity to experience the behind-the-scenes preparation of food
and the opening of the dinner service, before tasting the Nustrale
Surprise Menu, created at the whim of the chef’s inspiration and
according to the market of the day. A wonderful experience of sharing
and enjoying food!
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
Nustral pork: Sebastien Duval and Sylvie Adani - La Ferme de Casella in
Bonifacio
Sheep’s cheese: Evelyne and Stéphane Roghi in Bonifacio
Sustainable fishery: Damien Catoire and Philippe Botti in Bonifacio
Nustral charcuterie: Don-Jacques and Jean Zani - Charcuterie
Cuzanaccia in Cozzano
Olive oil: Anne Amalric - Domaine Marquiliani in Aghione
16
HEAD-TO-TAIL BROWN
MEAGRE FISH
Ingredients for 4 people:
3 brown meagre fish (or sea bass) 400 - 600 g/per piece, including one for the purée • For the brown meagre purée:
the fillets of one of the 3 brown meagre • 1 egg white • 1 drizzle of cream • Garden herbs • Salt, pepper, chilli flakes
• For the borage chlorophyll: 300 g borage leaves • 1 l water • 9 g agar-agar • Coarse salt • For the lemon frost-
ing: 500 g lemon juice • 50 g sugar • 7 g agar-agar.
Preparation time: 1 hr / Cooking time: 12 mins
For the fish: cut the brown meagre head to tail, holding the tail. Remove the head, gut the fish and cut it into two,
then set aside. Remove the bones, rinse and set aside. For the brown meagre purée: place all the ingredients in
the blender and distribute the mixture into pastry pouches. Spread a piece of film lengthwise and season. Open
the fish and stuff with the puree. Close tightly. Cook for 12 mins at 65°C then chill. For the borage chlorophyll:
plunge the leaves into salted water then mix in a blender. Boil with the agar-agar, season and pour onto a tray of
your chosen size. Set aside. For the lemon frosting: cook to a temperature of 85°C, stirring with a whisk. Keep
cool. Mix once set and dispense into a pipette. For the fish bones and dried head: boil water and immerse the Food & wine pairing
fishbones for 30 seconds. Cool and clean them. Cut the heads as desired, place them between two baking sheets Famidda de Peretti
and dry in the oven at 120°C for 6 hours. To decorate: Cut a disk of borage chlorophyll jelly. Cut the fish in half,
cutting the tail in half as well. Arrange on the plate, add the head and bones as decoration, then decorate with dots della Rocca
of lemon frosting and a drizzle of olive oil. Jules 2021
17
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
BRANDO
LE PIRATE
CHEF JERRY MONMESSIN
The terrace of the Le Pirate restaurant, installed on the
quays of the charming little fishing port of Erbalunga,
looks like a movie set with its Genoese tower and its
picturesque houses built at sea level in the background. It
has been a source of inspiration for many painters, and at
sunset the view is breathtaking! An exceptional setting in
which to discover the gastronomic cuisine, full of colours
and flavours, of talented chef Jerry Monmessin.
Jerry, the little boy from Epinal in the Vosges, knew his vocation from
an early age, to say the least. At 4 years old, he told his parents that he
wanted to be a cook when he grew up, never missing an opportunity
to sneak into the kitchen when they took him to a restaurant.
Nevertheless, he had to wait until he was old enough to enter the
Ecole Hôtelière de Gérardmer. At the age of 19, he took his backpack
to England to work in restaurants offering French gastronomy. Five
years later, he returned to France to work alongside starred chef
Edouard Loubet at the Moulin de Lourmarin, then left for a few
seasons in Contrexéville, where he discovered light gastronomy. In
2004, during a season in Courchevel, he met the owner of Le Pirate,
Jean-Pierre Ricci, who asked him to join the kitchen team of his
restaurant in Cap Corse for the summer. A year after his arrival, he
became second-in-command, then the following year, he became
head chef and was awarded a star in 2006. He joined forces with
the owner of Le Pirate and in 2018 ended up buying the restaurant,
which has built a solid reputation in the island’s gastronomic
landscape. Tasting Monmessin’s creative and refined cuisine takes
you on a culinary journey between land and sea, a magnificent
aromatic adventure with original, delicate and well-balanced flavour
combinations. The generous and harmonious plates reflect the
powerful, passionate and committed team, guided by this inspired
chef. Monmessin is The latter is supported by a second chef also
brimming with creativity and enthusiasm, Paul-Antoine Digiacomi.
Jerry Monmessin knows how to skilfully present the richness of
Corsican soil and its exceptional products with elegance. He has
fun experimenting with flavours in harmonious associations, often
punctuated with small hints of citrus or acidity subtly measured and
balanced to titillate the taste buds. For Jerry, cooking is not a static
activity, it is constantly evolving, revealing a rich palette of colours,
tastes and aromas. Hurry to this restaurant, located in the heart of
the most beautiful landscapes of Corsica for an impressive gourmet
getaway, you will not be disappointed!
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES MENUS
Fish: Poissonnerie Garbani in Bastia Discovery: 58 € or 78 €, Pleasure: 98 €, Lobster: from 198 €
Tiger beef and veal: Jacques Abbatucci, Ferme Fil Di Rosa in Serra-di-Ferro A la carte: average price 95 €
www.vachetigre.com
Olive oil: Moulin Oltremonti in Linguizetta - www.oltremonti.fr Le Pirate
Tomatoes, strawberries, courgettes, aromatic herbs: Pépinière Jam & Frère, Erbalunga, 20222 Brando
Quentin and Antoine Jamet in Cagnano Phone: +33(0)4 95 33 24 20 - www.restaurantlepirate.com
18
RED MULLET MISO
Food & wine pairing
Carco 2019
Patrimonio
Antoine-Marie Arena
Ingredients for 4 people:
4 red mullet fish • 1 l water • 50 g salt • For the sauce: 30 g butter • Garlic • Fennel • Tomato • Onion • Sherry vinegar • 1 square of
dark chocolate • For the miso marinade: 200 g red miso • 80 g olive oil • 40 g red fruit vinegar • 52 g fresh blackberries • For the miso
aubergines: 2 aubergines • For the blackberry pickles: 200 g blackberries • 300 g white balsamic vinegar • 35 g sugar • For the cuttlefish
confit: 1 cuttlefish • 50 ml olive oil • Garlic • Rosemary • To serve: Fresh blackberries • Purple and green Shiso shoots.
Preparation time: 2 hrs 30 / Cooking time: 8 hrs
For the red mullet: Gut the fish, reserving the livers and bones, cut into fillets, keeping them attached to the tail, Remove the bones and
cut the tail in regular widths so that the skin does not shrink. Put the fillets in a 5% brine (1 l water for 50 g salt). For the sauce: Cut
the aromatic garnish. Colour the red mullet heads and bones with olive oil, halfway through the colouring add the butter and aromatic
garnish, remove the juices and deglaze with the sherry vinegar. Add the red wine and white base. Cook for approximately 1hr30. Strain
through a cheesecloth and reduce to desired consistency. Just before serving, combine with red mullet livers, butter and chocolate. Blend
and strain again. Do not boil the sauce again. For the cuttlefish confit: Open up the cuttlefish, remove the head, bones and ink. Clean
thoroughly. Remove the skin from both sides, place in a vacuum bag with olive oil, garlic, salt and rosemary. Steam cook at 72°C for
8 hours. For the miso/blackberry marinade: Crush the blackberries and mix with the rest of the ingredients. For the aubergine miso:
The day before: cook the aubergines whole in a steam oven at 95°C for 45 mins. Cut off the top and peel them as soon as they come out
of the oven, then put them in tork paper in the refrigerator overnight. For the blackberry pickles: The day before: heat the vinegar and
sugar then pour over the blackberries while hot and cover and leave to cool until the next day. Remove the blackberries from the vinegar
then crush them, keeping the crushed pieces. To serve: Brown the aubergines a la plancha, slice them into three pieces lengthwise and
then open them in two, spreading the marinade on all sides. Brown a cuttlefish rectangle on both sides and place it in the middle of
the aubergine. Spread a layer of miso marinade on top, cover with sauce and put in the oven for 3 mins. Brown the red mullet fillets a
la plancha, keeping them pink. When they come out of the oven, lacquer the aubergines again with the sauce. Make five dots with the
blackberry pickles along the length of the aubergine. Put ¼ of fresh blackberries on each point and add the purple and green Shiso
shoots. Serve the sauce between the red mullet and the aubergine.
19
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
CALVI
LA SIGNORIA
CHEF ROMAIN MASSET
Ideally located a few minutes from the citadel and the
superb beaches of Calvi, surrounded by hundred-year-old
pine, eucalyptus, palm, olive and orange trees, La Signoria
is a little corner of paradise, a superb Genoese stately
home dating back to the 18th century. One could not
dream of a more beautiful setting to savour the refined
and delicate food of starred chef Romain Masset.
Dining in the elegant dining room of this gourmet restaurant,
or on the large terrace overlooking the mountains and forest
of Bonifato, is a unique experience hosted by a chef with an
impeccable background. When he was younger, Romain was
fascinated watching his grandfather in the kitchen preparing
family meals. These moments of exchange and sharing shaped
Romain’s passion for gastronomy. After training as a pork butcher
at the CEPROC and then as a chef at the École Médéric in Paris,
the diligent student quickly climbed the ladder of his profession
and enriched his experience in some of the greatest restaurants
in France. At Drouant with Louis Grondard, he learned how
to master the classic basics of gastronomy and the quest for
flavours. Yannick Franques at Château Saint-Martin then
introduced him to modernity and freedom of expression. Finally,
Régis and Jacques Marcon at Saint-Bonnet-Le-Froid instilled in
Romain the discipline of permanently seeking excellence and to
use every facet of a product. Masset was a finalist in the Meilleur
Ouvrier de France Cuisine competition in 2018 and came third at
the Bocuse d’Or in 2019. He took over the kitchens of the Signoria
in April 2021 to skilfully combine Mediterranean dishes with
the island flavours. All the flavours of Corsica are expressed in
his fragrant, creative and subtle cuisine through local products
of exceptional quality, masterfully combined. In his dishes,
Balagne flowers, the scents of the scrubland, the freshness of the
vegetables from the Signoria kitchen garden are combined with
the delicacy of Mediterranean fish and the flavour of free-range
meats, like an ode to the majestic island which has adopted him.
The promising talent of his second-in-command, Alex Negretti,
is also to be commended.
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
Fruit and vegetables: Diogo maraîcher de la Signoria in Calvi
Tiger breed veal: Antoine Abbatucci in Serra-di-Ferro - www.vachetigre.com
Honey: Adan Hander in Calenzana - www.facebook.com/people/Producteur-
Apiculteur-Adam-Handler
Charcuterie: Samira Pierlovisi, A Muresca in Cuttoli-Corticchiato
MENUS
Discovery menu: 120 €, Expérience menu: 160 €, Average à la carte price: 125 €
La Signoria
Route de la Forêt de Bonifato, 20260 Calvi
Phone: +33(0)4 95 65 93 00 - www.hotel-la-signoria.com
20
POIVRADE ARTICHOKE
WITH CORSICAN CLEMENTINE AND GERANIUM
Ingredients for 4 people:
For the artichoke: 8 ‘poivrade’-type artichokes
• 1 onion • 1 carrot • 20 g white wine
• 1 l vegetable stock • 10 g geranium
• For the breading: 1 egg • 50 g flour
• 200 g breadcrumb coating • For the
artichoke puree: 1 Camus artichoke
• 250 g vegetable stock • 1 clementine
• For the pickles: 4 small poivrade artichokes
• 500 g pickle syrup • 250 g cream
• 30 g geranium • For the tartelette:
150 g shortcrust pastry • 1 Camus artichoke
• 1 clementine • For the geranium siphon:
10 g clementine juice • For the biscuit: 10 g
flour • 24 g grapeseed oil • 20 g water.
Food & wine pairing
Léa 2019
Clos Landry
Preparation time: 1 hr 30 min / Leave to set: 40 min
For the artichoke: Turn the artichoke over, Peel the vegetables and cut them in into 1cm pieces. Brown the vegetables in a frying pan
with oil, add the artichokes, deglaze with white wine and moisten with the vegetable stock and geranium. Cook for about 25 mins. For
the artichoke puree: Turn the artichoke, then cook with the vegetable stock. Blend the artichoke until you obtain a fairly compact
purée. Season, then grate the clementine skin. Stuff the artichokes with the purée, stick them together and then bread them. Set aside to
fry. For the pickles: Turn the artichokes, blanch them in a saucepan for 5 mins then set aside in a jar with the boiling syrup prepared the
day before. Mix the cream with the geranium, strain and reserve three quarters for the siphon and whisk up the rest. Drain the pickles
and garnish with the cream. Set aside in the fridge. For the tartelette: Roll out the dough and distribute it into tartlet moulds. Bake at
160°C for 8 mins. Set aside. Turn the artichoke and dice, mix with the artichoke and garnish the tartelettes. For the siphon: Take the
geranium-infused cream made in advance and add the clementine juice. Siphon and garnish the tartelettes. For the biscuit: Mix all the
ingredients in a then place in moulds and bake at 160°C for 5 mins. soup plate, then place in moulds and bake at 160°C for 5 mins. To
serve: Fry the artichoke, cut it in half and dress to taste.
21
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
CASALABRIVA
LE FRÈRE
CHEF HENRI ABBATUCCI
Near the prehistoric site of Filitosa, at the bend of
a path criss-crossing the Taravu valley hides this
restaurant in a bucolic setting, proposing a unique
concept around a star food product: the «tiger cow».
Le Frère is not like other establishments. Located in the middle THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
of nature on the magnificent Count Abbatucci family estate, it Tiger veal and beef: Jacques Abbatucci, Ferme Fil di Rosa in Serra
is a restaurant offering almost exclusively one product, but an di Ferro - https://www.facebook.com/FermeVacheTigre
exceptional product! The identity and reputation of the place Aromatic herbs: Solange Favre, Macchia e Ortu – Castidducciu
are forged around an excellent organic product, «Tiger Cow», in Pila-Canale
meat from an authentic Corsican cattle breed, identifiable by Charcuterie: Anita Renucci, A Filetta in Cozzano
its brindle coat. The breeder, Jacques Abbatucci, who registered https://www.facebook.com/Charcuterie-Renucci-Cozzano
the brand in 2006 in order to sustain and renew this Corsican Wine: Jean-Charles Abbatucci, Domaine Comte Abbatucci - Calzola
«breed», is none other than the brother of the owner, talented in Casalabriva
chef Henri Abbatucci. Domaine Kiesale was created in 1983
when Henri’s aunt, Marie-Jeanne, returned to the countryside MENUS
and created a farm guest house to show travelers her land. Average à la carte price: 50 €
Nearly 30 years later in 2011, Henri also returned to his native
countryside and started a second career with his wife Carine at Le Frère
his side by taking over the establishment. Indeed, Henri has not Pont de Calzola, Domaine Kiesale, 20140 Casalabriva
always been a chef. For 15 years, he devoted himself entirely Phone: +33(0)4 95 24 36 30 / 06 67 57 78 39
to his career as a combat helicopter pilot in the special army www.restaurantlefrere.fr
forces. When he reached the age of military retirement, after
two years spent at piloting commercial helicopters in Porto-
Vecchio, he decided to embark on his second passion, cookery,
and to focus his creations on showcasing the famous meat with
its unequalled flavours and tenderness. With his characteristic
methodology, rigour and commitment (his military training
undoubtedly contributed to these character traits) he prepares
the meat in all its forms and with a range of sauces with great
skill: cooked with the kidneys, confit with honey, in liver pâtés,
sautéed with chestnuts, flavoured with lemon and Nepita and
so on... No piece nor offal escapes his creativity, the only limit
being his quest for a balance of flavours. As for the rest, the
charcuterie, the market garden products and the cheeses are
supplied by his neighbours. To accompany these feasts, there
is only one Domaine on the wine list, La Domaine du Comte
Abbatucci, converted to biodynamics and operated by the third
brother, Jean-Charles. No less than 12 references of white, red
and rosé wines from native grape varieties, renowned for their
aromatic and taste qualities, are offered for tasting and purchase,
and the restaurant also houses the sales outlet of the winery.
With her innate sense of hospitality, Carine presents the menu
and tells you the story behind each dish in such a way as to evoke
all your senses and make you want to taste everything... All the
elements are gathered here to create a perfect alchemy, making
this address a must visit of Corsican gastronomy.
22
LEMON & NEPITA
TIGER BEEF
Ingredients for 4 people:
800 g tiger beef (or Bourguignon) • 400 g chopped onions • 80 g lard • 2 crushed garlic cloves (without the shoot)
• 1 lemon (zest and segments) • 4 g Népita (wild Corsican marjoram) • ½ l rosé wine (Faustine) • 1 bay leaf
• 1 sprig of fresh rosemary • 1 sprig of fresh thyme • Flour • Coarse salt • Pepper • Oliver oil.
Preparation time: 1 hr / Cooking time: 5 hrs / Infusion time: 12 hrs Food & wine pairing
Cut the bourguignon into 2 cm pieces. Brown in a frying pan in the lard, cover with flour. Put the meat in Cuvée 2019
an ovenproof dish. In the same frying pan, brown the chopped onions and crushed garlic in a little olive
Collection Général
oil. Pour the mixture with the meat, add the bay leaf, thyme, rosemary and lemon segments. Add salt Domaine Comte
and pepper. Cover with the wine and a little water if necessary. Mix everything together. Cover the pan
and put it in the oven at 140°C. Cook for 2 hours and 30 mins, then remove the lid and continue cooking Abbatucci
for 2 hours and 30 mins. Add the Nepita, mix and leave to infuse overnight. Reheat in a bain-marie for
about 20 mins or in the oven at 140°C. Grate a few lemon peels over the meat before serving. Serve with
tagliatelle or mashed potatoes.
23
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
FOLELLI
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES I FULETTI
Goat’s cheese: Jean André Santini, shepherd in Fiuminale
Fish: Daniel Defusco, fisherman in the port of Taverna CHEF ALESSANDRO CAPONE
Organic farming: Jean Marie Brunini in Santa-Lucia-di-Moriani
and Denis Cosenza in Fulelli I Fuletti is an address in Northern Corsica which
Cattle breeding: Marc Bracconi in Pero-Casevecchje is passed on by word of mouth. Despite being
Milk: Emanuela Defendini in Talasani surrounded by buildings, it is a real oasis where
you can enjoy chef Alessandro Capone’s culinary
MENUS creations on a large, shaded terrace, sheltered
Average à la carte menu: 55 €, Lunchtime menu: 19 € from the traffic and public eye, or inside the cosy
restaurant.
I Fuletti
Route de San Pellegrino, 20230 Folelli Considering gastronomy as an art form in which all the senses
Phone: +33(0)4 95 34 06 67 - www.facebook.com/I-Fuletti are evoked, Alessandro Capone expresses himself as a true artist
in his food: modern and unique, entirely devoted to Corsican
24 products. Capone knows how lucky he is to have been born
in Puglia, in this remote region of southern Italy where, from
a very young age, the street sellers who went from village to
village introduced him to the products of the local fishermen,
market gardeners, breeders and cheesemakers, according to
the seasons. Alessandro found his vocation early on in life. At
the age of three, the future chef asked a seamstress going from
house to house to embroider the word «Chef» on his first school
apron. At the age of fourteen, his parents decided to move to
Corsica. He obtained a diploma at the Lycee Maritime de Bastia
but did not want to pursue studies. A motorcycle accident left
him house-ridden for several months, during which he devoted
his time to playing the guitar and cooking. Once he recovered,
he divided his time between his two passions. He set up a music
group that toured Europe for five years and, in between tours,
worked as an extra in restaurants. At the age of 28, with the
birth of his first child, he decided to settle in Corsica to be closer
to nature. In 2011, he took over the U Tavaninchu restaurant
in Velone Orneto, which is where he took his first steps in the
restaurant industry. Mixing Italian, Corsican and more widely
Mediterranean influences, it quickly became a food reference on
the island. In 2018, Alessandro embarked on a new adventure
and opened I Fuletti with his mother Maria Grazia, who is a
central presence in the restaurant. Alessandro proposes dishes
of the day which vary according to the availability of local
produce. He promotes all the products he chooses rigorously for
their taste and their history. For example, the ice creams they
develop using the best island products - chestnuts, hazelnuts,
Corsican PDO honey replacing sugar, fresh milk produced by the
only cow’s milk producer in Corsica... Capone finds most of his
inspiration in nature, as his father always told him to, saying
«Look at nature, it provides everything we need in life». Placing
all ingredients on an equal footing, he prepares lobsters and
herbs with the same dedication, giving free rein to his creativity.
While his cooking techniques are mostly Italian, learned in his
youth from his grandmother and mother, Alessandro Capone
plays on the micro-regional climate of Corsica by sourcing
produce locally. In 2019, he was ranked among the best young
talents by Gault Millau and in 2020 I Fuletti was listed among the
109 best restaurants in France.
MARINATED LANGOUSTINE
Ingredients for 4 people:
12 medium-sized langoustines • For the marinade: juice of 2 lemons • 4 tsp sweet soy sauce • 8 tsp candied
bell pepper oil • For the candied bell pepper oil: 3 red bell peppers • 30 cl olive oil • Salt • Oregano.
Preparation time: 20 mins / Cooking time: 35 mins Food & wine pairing
For the candied bell pepper oil: The day before, peel, seed and slice the peppers, then cover with olive oil. Pumonte 2021
Add salt and oregano to taste. Bake in an oven at 180°C in a terracotta dish for 35 mins. Peel halfway through
cooking, then leave to cool very slowly with a lid before filtering. For the langoustines: Shell the langoustines. Domaine d’Alzipratu
Remove the black gut and cut in half. Cover with the marinade and set aside for 20 mins in a cool space. 25
Serve with a salad of grilled seasonal vegetables (bell peppers, aubergines, courgettes, romaine lettuce, basil…)
and a few slivers of salted pistachios to add crunchiness.
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
ILE ROUSSE
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES STELLA MARE
Charcuterie: François Albertini in Loreto di Casinca
Suckling lamb, cheese, brocciu cheese: François Fondacci in Monticellu CHEFANGE CANANZI
Beef: Jean-Marc Nobili in Nessa
Fruit and vegetables: Stéphane Graziani in Santa-Reparata-di-Balagna Located at one end of the magnificent Ile Rousse beach,
Olive oil: Jérôme Cananzi in Avapessa from the Stella Mare, you can have your feet in the sand
in seconds. The Stella Mare is not a straw hut, it is a
MENUS beach restaurant in an idyllic setting offering delicious
Average menu of the day price 48 € Mediterranean cuisine based on local Corsican products.
Stella Mare Idyllic is indeed the best word to describe the setting of this
20220 Ile Rousse restaurant! The large terrace with its many tables opens entirely
Phone: +33(0)4 95 60 05 76 out onto the Mediterranean Sea, offering an amazing panoramic
sea view. To the rear, you can see the beautiful landscapes of
26 the Balagne region. Comfortably installed on the decking of this
gourmet restaurant, let yourself be transported by the lapping
of the waves and let your taste buds travel to the heart of the
island’s flavours. The kitchens of this charming restaurant are
managed by the very capable chef Ange Cananzi. As a child of
Santa-Reparata-di-Balagna, Ange used to accompany his father
on fishing trips and together they would cook the fish they
brought home. A few years later, his first experience with the
world of work was in local bakeries and cookie factories which
inspired him with their delicious smells. From his contact with
enthusiastic professionals and the variety of products that make
up the identity of the Ile de Beauté, his vocation was marked out,
one which he developed at the Lycée Hôtelier de Balagne which
had just opened its hotel section in 1985. Diploma in hand,
Cananzi tried his hand at all types of catering, from pizzerias
and snack bars to traditional restaurants, but it was his time
in the kitchens of the luxurious Signoria restaurant in Calvi
that made him decide to turn his hand to refined gastronomic
cuisine. Determined to stand on his own two feet, he opened
his restaurant Pasquale Paoli in Ile Rousse in 2007 and was
awarded a star the following year, which he kept until 2016. For
more than twelve years, this renowned address delighted the
palates of lovers of gourmet Corsican cuisine, far beyond the
locals. In 2020, his partner Sabine Acquaviva, owner of the Stella
Mare, offered him the position of chef in her establishment. The
address was not unknown to Ange, who had worked there for
four seasons from 2001 to 2005 and met the woman who now
shares his life. He therefore decided to put his know-how into
the dishes served at the Stella Mare and to treat fans of Corsican
food to the best products of the island in its enchanting setting.
His food is centred around Corsican cuisine with ultra-fresh
local products, but he also brings his own creative touch to
modernise traditional dishes. As a passionate cook committed
to promoting his region, Ange Cananzi’s credo is to give his
own interpretation of Corsican traditions according to the
seasons through a relaxed style of food, between land and sea
platters, developing a wonderful aromatic palette. To introduce
us to his world, he offers his own take of the famous recipe for
«Storzapretti» quenelle with brocciu cheese and chard, which he
serves with spider crab gravy and sea fennel.
STORZAPRETTI
WITH SPIDER CRAB GRAVY
AND SEA FENNEL
Ingredients for 4 people:
1 kg brocciu cheese • 1 bunch of chard • 400 g spinach • 1 sprig of thyme • 2 bay leaves • 1 sprig of fennel
(preferably wild) • 1 bunch of sea fennel or sea asparagus • Nepita herbs (or marjoram) • 6 leaves of fresh
mint • 5 cloves of pink garlic • 4 yellow onions • 1 spider crab • 2 large potatoes • 3 eggs • Plain flour
• 100 g concentrated tomato paste • Salt • Ground white pepper • Corsican fruity olive oil.
Preparation time: 45 mins / Cooking time: 2 hrs Food & wine pairing
For the spider crab gravy: Clean the spider crab, brush and cut into pieces, fry with the aromatic Pitraïa 2019 - Domaine
herbs until browned. Moisten with the concentrated tomato paste and soften with water. Cook for
2 hours over a low heat. Filter the juice and reduce to a syrupy texture. For the Storzapretti: Drain Bernard Renucci
the brocciu cheese. Wash the chard and spinach, cut finely and poach in boiling water. Cool them in ice,
then squeeze out the water. Place in a bowl: brocciu cheese, chard, spinach, eggs, mint, Nepita herbs,
salt and pepper and stir all together with a spatula. Shape the quenelles and poach them in simmering
salted water. When they rise to the surface, they are cooked. Strain into a colander. Keep warm.
To serve: Serve individually in deep plates. Pour in the reduced spider crab gravy and arrange
3 quenelles per plate. Add the poached sea fennel and pour the fruity olive oil over the top.
27
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
LEVIE
A PIGNATA
CHEF JEAN-BAPTISTE
DE ROCCA SERRA
Both farm and guesthouse, located at an altitude of 850
m in Alta Rocca, 5 km from the village of Levie, near the
prehistoric sites of Cucuruzu, A Pignata is a charming
stopover, a haven of peace. Immersed in nature, it is
easily one of the most beautiful addresses of the island in
which to truly experience Corsica.
In Corsica, sea and mountain are never far apart. It takes only THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
30 minutes from the magnificent beaches of southern Corsica to Vegetables and citrus fruits: A Pignata
enjoy delicious, locally sourced food, while soaking up the views Farm charcuterie: A Pignata
of the majestic Aiguilles de Bavella from the large panoramic Honey: A Pignata
terrace of A Pignata. In colder temperatures, guests can dine Cheese and brocciu passu cheese: Georges Mary, shepherd, Sartène
in the warm dining room with a feature fireplace. Discovering Supplementary organic farming: Jean Digiacomo, Propriano
a region involves exploring its past and present-day traditions,
especially food-related traditions. This is what the owners of this MENUS
unique restaurant, dedicated to making generous and authentic Menu - 58 €
dishes, propose to their guests. A Pignata is above all a family-
run restaurant, with a history spanning back two generations. A Pignata
First, Antoine and Marie-Lilas De Rocca Serra (known fondly Route des sites archéologiques de Cucuruzzu, 20170 Levie
as Lily), the founders, created a pizzeria and discotheque on Phone: +33(0)4 95 78 41 90 - www.apignata.com
the family property, in parallel with the restaurant in Levie
where Lily ran the kitchens with her mother Marie-Rose. In
the 1980s, the couple stopped these activities to start raising
pigs and chickens. Being real pioneers, they created an agro-
tourism establishment, built with their own hands, made of
wood and local stone, to cater for tourists and locals, as well as
5 lovely guest rooms. Antoine and Jean-Baptiste, their two sons,
took over from them in 2001 and further developed the place
without changing its character. It now boasts 17 comfortable
guest rooms, 2 perched huts and 1 caseddu (shepherd’s hut), a
covered heated swimming pool, a hammam, and a wellness and
massage cabin. The two brothers share the different activities
of the estate: breeding «nustral» pigs, producing charcuterie,
organic market gardening, olive growing, and the hotel and
restaurant. In their distribution of tasks, Antoine has taken over
the kitchens, highlighting the exceptional products of the farm
from age-old recipes passed down by his mother, grandmother
and generations of women before them, which he cooks slowly
in the same way. Following a short period of training at the Ecole
Hôtelière de Montpellier and a stint in a restaurant in Aix-en-
Provence, he decided to return to his island to complete a double
agricultural and equestrian tourism guide training programme,
while also helping Lily prepare lunch and dinner services. The
atmosphere of the kitchens and the delight he sees in his guests’
eyes when they taste his family dishes convinced him to take over
the running of the restaurant. He proposes a unique traditional
menu, by reservation, which features ingredients produced on
the family farm. People come to this restaurant in search of
authenticity and high-quality ingredients, a cultural experience,
and to discover flavoursome food which has been served over
decades without being lost in changes over time.
28
STUFFED DAUBE
Ingredients for 5 people:
For the sauce: 4 chopped onions • 2 minced garlic cloves • 1 bunch of parsley, chopped • 300 g mushrooms such as ceps
and black trumpet mushrooms • 150 g concentrated tomato paste • 2 bay leaves • ½ l wine • Salt • Pepper • For the
daube: 300 g minced veal • 300 g minced beef • 400 g minced pork • 150 g minced onions • 100 g chopped parsley
• 150 g breadcrumbs soaked in milk • 12 g salt • 6 g pepper • 3 eggs.
Preparation time: 30 mins / Cooking time: 2 hrs Food & wine pairing
For the sauce: Brown the onions and garlic, then add the mushrooms and parsley. Add concentrated tomato Clos Canarelli
paste and bay leaves. Deglaze with wine. Add salt and pepper. For the daube: The day before: soak the Cuvée Alta Rocca
breadcrumbs in milk and drain. Mix all ingredients to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Shape into a loaf. Flour
the bread and fry it on both sides. Put it with the sauce in a pot and completely cover with water. Cook for
2 hours over a medium heat. Set aside for 24 hours. Cut 5 slices, place in a pot with the sauce and simmer
before serving.
29
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
LINGUIZETTA
CHEZ MARIE
EN CORSE
CHEF SERGIO RISDONNE
Between sea and mountains, in the heart of the
agricultural plain, along the national road linking Porto
Vecchio and Bastia, there is a place off the beaten track
which is authentic and full of charm, a heady mix of
restaurant, grocery store, café, tobacconist and guest
house. A part of the local fabric: Chez Marie en Corse.
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES «Happiness on the roadside» is the motto of Chez Marie en
Fruit and vegetables: Yannick Carteret - Yann Solo Bio in Linguizzeta Corse. There is nothing to suggest from the outside what awaits
Veal: Jacques and Audrey Filippi in Linguizzeta you inside: push the door to take a real leap back in time. In a
Charcuterie: Stéphanie Frombolacci and Pierre-Antoine Battini in Tox decor straight out of the 1950’s, the owner Pascal Orsini and his
Olive oil: Emilie Borel Berta and Ivo – Mulinu Oltremonti in Linguizzeta partner Sergio Risdonne have kept the soul of the place, making
it a place for exchanges where the locals come to have a drink
MENUS at the bar or eat a tasty dish prepared by Sergio. After a career
Average slate menu price: 40 € in the high-end hotel industry on the mainland, Pascal arrived
in 2012 with Sergio to revive the establishment where he used
Chez Marie en Corse to spend his childhood vacations: a traditional Corsican family
Bravone, RN 198, 20230 Linguizetta guesthouse created 40 years earlier by his great-uncle and great-
Phone: +33(0)4 95 38 81 85 - www.chezmarieencorse.fr aunt Marie. As for Sergio, an Italian from Rome, he began his
career in Switzerland as a waiter in palaces in Gstaad, Bern and
Geneva before joining Gordon Ramsey and Richard Corrigan’s
team in London. His career then continued in France with Michel
Rostang and William Ledeuil at Ze Kitchen Gallerie, before his
decision to move to Corsica led him to embark on a new career,
moving from the dining room to the kitchen. This was not a
difficult transition for Sergio, who spent his childhood immersed
in the culture of home cooking watching his grandmother
cook. His memories of a fresh, authentic and gourmet cuisine
still inspire him today and contribute to the spirit of the place.
At Marie’s, you come to taste food which is characterised by
sharing and seasonal dishes with an Italian influence, based
almost exclusively on locally-sourced Corsican products. Over
time, the two partners have built up an address book of small,
carefully selected local organic suppliers located less than 5 km
from them. Due to the lack of agricultural production on the
island, some products escape the net, but meet the same quality
requirements, such as the Setaro artisanal pasta used to make
the chef ’s famous carbonara pasta, the other ingredients of this
delicious recipe coming straight from Corsican soil. While the
atmosphere is something akin to a jovial family canteen, we do
not compromise on the quality of the ingredients used in the
delicious food created by Sergio. Depending on the season, you
will be served in the living room or the garden, which resembles
an open-air dance hall. Pascal and Sergio are committed to
environmentally-friendly measures, respectful of their region
and nature, which has enabled Chez Marie to join the Ecotourism
Network in the East of Corsica.
30
SAUTEED ORGANIC CORSICAN
VEAL WITH ARTICHOKES
Ingredients for 4 people:
1,5 kg sautéed organic veal (loin and shank) • 2 l vegetable stock • 1.5 l red wine • 2 carrots • 2 sticks of celery
• 1 blond onion • 6 purple artichokes • ½ lemon • 1 bouquet garni (sage, thyme, rosemary) • Olive oil
• Salt and pepper.
Preparation time: 30 mins / Cooking time: 1 hr 45 Food & wine pairing
Brown the meat in a pan over a high heat, browning well on all sides, and season with salt and pepper. Chiosu Fronelli 2020
Set aside. Prepare a mix of diced carrots, celery and onion. Brown. Add the meat once the vegetables have
softened and deglaze with red wine. Cover with the broth once the alcohol has evaporated, add the bouquet Minustellu
garni and bring to the boil, covered. Preheat the oven to 120°C and cook the sauté for about 1.5 hours,
checking every 15 mins to make sure it does not dry out. Cut the artichokes in half and soak them in lemon
water to avoid oxidation. Add the artichokes after around 1 hour of cooking when the meat starts to soften.
Finish cooking for around 20 mins.
31
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS LA FERME
MURATO DE CAMPO DI MONTE
LES MENUS CHEFFE PAULINE JULLIARD
Exclusive menu with seasonal products: 60 € with muscat aperitif,
wine and coffee included. Campo di Monte is hidden on the bend of a chaotic
La Ferme de Campo di Monte path winding through the undergrowth, in Haute-
Campo Di Monte, 20239 Murato Corse, south of Bastia. It is a timeless haven of peace:
Phone: +33(0)4 95 37 64 39 an immersion in the Corsican wildlife of yester year
www.fermecampodimonte.com awaits you in this magnificent 18th century farm with
its exceptional panorama overlooking the gulf of Saint-
32 Florent and the small village of Murato nestled in the
mountains.
After an aperitif with muscat wine beside a pretty spring-
sourced lake, in the shade of the trees in the large garden, the
traditional meal, a selection of Corsican specialties prepared
by Pauline Juliard, are served in the small dry stone walled
rooms of the farmhouse. Waxed cupboards, old tables, sepia
family photos, bouquets of wildflowers... the decor is rustic.
Pauline works alone in the kitchen, repeating the techniques
she learned instinctively from her grandmother Pauline Marie
and her mother Innocence. As a tribute to these exceptional
cooks, she proposes a simple and authentic Corsican cuisine,
with nostalgic flavours. Proud of her heritage, she offers a
unique menu that varies over the seasons, made using only local
products supplied by local producers and livestock breeders.
She uses the recipes of her grandmother and her mother, who
she always saw cooking during her childhood, and recipes of
the village elders: Corsican soup, zucchini fritters, fresh cheese,
local charcuterie, wild boar daube, Corsican veal stew, brocciu
quenelles, farm cheeses with homemade jam, Fiadone, candied
clementines and other traditional specialities according to the
seasons and the religious calendar, such as lamb at Easter and
young goat’s meat at Christmas... Puffed fritters are drizzled
with brandy and wine is served in a carafe. Pauline is very much
at home in her restaurant, but she hasn’t always been a cook.
Born in Bastia, after having managed a construction company in
Bastia, in 1985 she decided to change her life and settle with her
son Eric in the same village as her ancestors in an old farmhouse
dating back to 1600 which she respectfully restored to make her
farmhouse. She started out just cooking for friends, but word of
mouth worked so well that the place soon saw an influx of true
Corsican food fans. You will have to reserve if you want to enjoy
this authentic food experience! At Campo di Monte, respect for
traditions is observed, to the point of excluding outdoor meals,
because in Corsica we always eat inside! You can however enjoy
the pleasant garden and its splendid views between courses and
after your meal.
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
Veal: La Ferme de Campo di Monte
Goat and sheep cheese: Famille Casanova in Vallecalle
Brocciu cheese: Famille Germain in Furiani
Vegetables: Jean Coppi in Murato
LE FIADONE
Ingredients for 6 people:
500g unstrained brocciu cheese • 4 eggs • 250 g sugar • 1 small untreated lemon • 1 knob of butter.
Preparation time: 10 mins / Cooking time: 50 mins
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grate the lemon zest.
Mix the brocciu cheese, the eggs, sugar and grated lemon zest to make a smooth paste.
Butter a 28 cm diameter tin and pour in the mixture. Place in the oven and cook for 50 mins.
The Fiadone should have a nice dark brown colour.
Leave to cool and serve.
Food & wine pairing
Réserve du Président
Cuvée Historique 2019
33
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
PORTO-VECCHIO
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES CASADELMAR
Brocciu & cheeses: Fromagerie Mallaroni -GAEC d’Urtolu in Sartène
Pork cheek: L’Oru di Piazza in Zicavo CHEF FABIO BRAGAGNOLO
Black pig: Dumé Cesari in Cozzano - www.charcuteriecorsedusud.fr
Olive oil: Domaine Marquiliani in Aghione An exceptional location, right on the water, for this
Red tuna: Damien Muller in Saint-Florent - www.corse-ikejime.com exceptional restaurant! Come and enjoy the refined and
Anchovies: Pierre-Antoine Gougelet in Sari Solenzara creative Mediterranean cooking of two-starred chef
Fabio Bragagnolo in a park of nearly three hectares,
MENUS in the shade of olive trees and umbrella pines, facing
Discovery menu: 190 €, ‘Creation and Passion’ menu: 270 € the bay of Porto-Vecchio and just minutes from the
Average price for the gastronomic menu: 180 €, Brunch: 95 € city center and the most beautiful beaches of southern
Corsica. Welcome to paradise!
Hôtel Casadelmar 5*
Route de Palombaggia, 20538 Porto-Vecchio Casadelmar is a cosy restaurant, entirely overlooking the sea,
Phone: +33(0)4 95 72 34 34 - www.casadelmar.fr with two alcoves for more intimate dinners and a magnificent
panoramic terrace offering a breath-taking view of the bay of
34 Porto Vecchio. In this unique setting, embark on the culinary
journey proposed by talented chef Fabio Bragagnolo! Born in
Friuli, the son of a baker, Fabio did not intend to follow in his
father’s footsteps but instead always imagined himself as a chef.
He learned the basics of cooking, especially French cuisine, in
Italy at a hotel management school. After his first experience at
the Four Seasons hotel restaurant in Milan working with Sergio
Mei, his desire to see the world led him first to London and then to
Paris in 1999 where he joined the Carpaccio kitchen at the Royal
Monceau as second-in-command. In 2004, he moved to Corsica
to participate in the opening of the Casadelmar alongside chef
Davide Bisetto. With this talented duo, they didn’t have to wait
long before receiving a Michelin star. Having fallen in love with
the Île de la Beauté, Fabio decided to settle down and quickly
climbed the ladder from sous-chef to head chef. When Davide
left the restaurant in 2014, Bragagnolo naturally took over the
kitchen and in 2015 was awarded a second star in recognition
of his hard work, perfectly mastered creativity and exceptional
talent. In 2020, the Casadelmar restaurant joined the ranks
of the Grandes Tables du Monde, a prestigious international
community of starred restaurants. Being a fan of locally
sourcing produce, Bragagnolo likes to promote the products
of Corsica and the Mediterranean according to the seasons,
showcasing their flavours with the greatest respect. He will
use ingredients from further afield if required for his excellent
dishes, elegantly mixing ingredients from his native Italy and
his adopted island of Corsica. With great attention to taste, this
passionate, humble and discreet chef, dedicated to pleasing his
guests with his culinary creations, expresses his talent in a sea-
inspired cuisine, meticulous and creative, balanced, delicately
flavoured using aromatic plants and flowers grown in the
grounds of the restaurant. A partnership with INRA (Institut
National de Recherche Agronomique) gives him access to one
of the most beautiful collections of citrus fruits in the world,
which he uses in his dishes like an artist. With skilful alchemy,
he combines with art and delicacy the most delicious Corsican
fish with the best island products, driven by his sensitivity and
unlimited inspiration. On Sundays, during the summer, don’t
miss Bragagnolo’s famous brunch, a fabulous gastronomic buffet
made using exceptional products!
RACK OF DUMÈ CESARI PORK
RIBS WITH ROSEMARY
Ingredients for 4 people:
500 g rack of pork ribs • 50 g olive oil • 10 g salt • 10 g pepper • 50 g rosemary • 4 garlic cloves • 4 sand carrots
• 25 g Verger de Raphaëlle hazelnut oil • U Renusu Verger de Raphaëlle hazelnut-infused salt • 50 g butter
• 10 g toasted hazelnuts.
Preparation time: 30 mins / Cooking time: 2 hrs
Prepare the rack of pork, add salt and pepper, garlic and olive oil. Place it in a vacuum bag and cook in the oven at
58°C for 2 hrs. Wash the carrots, cut the leaves, place them on a baking sheet in the oven at 120°C for 2 hrs or 2h30
depending on the size of the carrots. Take out and remove the carrots, collect the pulp and put in the Thermomix
(or blender) to obtain a puree. Add the butter, hazelnut oil and hazelnut-infused salt. Remove the skin and bake to
dry at 60°C. After drying, fry at 170°C until crispy. Take the rack of pork out of the vacuum bag and roast in a pan Food & wine pairing
on all sides, reduce the cooking juices. Arrange the dried carrots on a plate, fill with the carrot purée and add the Oriu - Domaine de Toraccia
carrot sprouts. Slice the rack of pork and season with the cooking juices.
2015
35
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
SAINT-FLORENT
AUBERGE
LE MONTANA
CHEF ANTOINE COSTA
Located a mere five minutes from the port of St
Florent, the Costa family establishment is well known
among the locals, who come to enjoy a hearty, refined
cuisine firmly rooted in regional food traditions
in a pleasant setting.
Le Montana forged its reputation through word of mouth. The THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
key to its success is its harmonious flavours, its local cuisine, Prisuttu ham: San-Petrone Benoit Rinaldi, pig breeder in Sans Lorenzo
which is straightforward, efficient, gourmet and affordable. Lonzu, coppa, sausage: Biancu u Neru, François-Frédéric Navarra,
Another central feature is the family spirit that gives the place pig breeder in Santu Petru di Tenda
a distinctive charm. Le Montana is first and foremost a family Pork and suckling pig meat: Cyril Provent, pig breeder in Farinole
venture, that of Antoine and Thierry’s parents who enjoyed and butcher in St Florent
cooking for the locals and welcoming half-board guests. The two Fish: Jean-Michel di Menza, fisherman in St Florent
brothers have been immersed in this atmosphere since their Olive oil: Olivier Morati, olive grower and harvester in Santu-Petru di Tenda
childhood. While Thierry chose to work in serving the food, Honey: Marion Morati, beekeeper in Oletta
Antoine discovered his passion for cooking at a very early age. To Lamb: Jean-Louis Lucciani, shepherd in Oletta
channel his excessive energy, his mother used to bake with him at
her side. Antoine can’t remember having any other ambition. As
soon as he was old enough to start training, he joined the Lycée
Hôtelier de Bastia. While working as an extra in a restaurant in
Saint-Florent, the owners offered him the opportunity to work
for the summer season in another of their luxury establishments
in Val Thorens, Le Fitzroy, where he discovered the world of
gastronomy. With their parents growing older, the brothers
decided to return to the village to take over the family business
and modernised the establishment. The restaurant now offers
the opportunity to dine either in a very pleasant room with
contemporary decor, or on the terrace around the pool, and to
have a drink with appetizers in the adjoining lounge area. Their
parents retain a foothold in the running of the restaurant and
keep the family spirit alive, while Thierry is very attentive to
his guests. In the kitchen, family customs and traditions are
reflected in Antoine’s dishes. Through his passion for his job and
the Corsican products he sources from local producers, he gives
us the opportunity to see, smell and taste the different flavours of
this fertile region. With the seasons and their different products
- meats, fish, plants taking the spotlight in turn - optimised in
Antoine’s demanding and perfectionist cuisine, he strives to find
the perfect balance of flavours for the ultimate taste experience.
On your way to Cap Corse, don’t hesitate to stop at Le Montana,
you will have a truly memorable meal.
MENUS
A la carte menu around 40 €
Auberge Le Montana
Lieu dit Guadelle, route d’Oletta, 20217 Saint-Florent
Phone: +33(0)4 95 37 14 85
36
SCORPION FISH
MILLEFEUILLE
WITH SPIDER CRAB RAVIOLI
Food & wine pairing
Sur la Route du Cap… 2020
Stéphanie Olmeta
Ingredients for 4 people:
For the millefeuille: 2 scorpion fish (around 700 g) • 1 spider crab • 4 slices of prisuttu ham • Salt • Pepper • Olive oil • Fresh fennel
• For the ravioli pasta: 250 g flour • 15 cl water • 10 cl olive oil • 1 egg • ½ tsp salt • For the prisuttu ham crumble: 4 slices of prisuttu ham
• For the bisque : 1 spider crab • 1 bouquet garni (mixed herbs) • 1 bulb of fennel • 4 Roma tomatoes • Olive oil • Cognac • ½ l white wine • Salt
• Pepper • Saffron • ¼ l crème fraiche • For the shallots candied with Muscat wine: Shallots • Muscat wine • For the citron brulé: 3 untreated
yellow lemons.
Preparation time: 30 mins / Cooking time: 45 mins
For the millefeuille: Cut the 4 scorpion fish fillets, cutting them in half lengthwise to obtain 8 half fillets. Season the fillets skin side. Cut the
slices of prisuttu ham. Overlay ½ a slice of prisuttu, ½ a scorpion fish fillet, ½ a prisuttu ham slice, ½ a scorpion fish fillet, skin side up. Place
them on baking parchment paper with olive oil. Bake in a 160°C preheated oven for 6-8 mins. For the bisque: Cut the spider crab into
6 parts (first in two parts longways, then in three parts on each side). Fry over a high heat and then flambé with cognac after browning. Add
the coarsely chopped tomatoes, the bouquet garni and the fennel bulb cut into 4 pieces. Sweat and add the white wine, a touch of saffron
and 1 l of hot water. Simmer over low heat. Remove the spider crab after 25 mins of cooking and set aside. Leave to reduce for 1.5 hrs on a
low heat. Mix and Pass through a strainer. Cream lightly. Extract the flesh from the spider crab carcasses. Set aside. For the shallots candied
with Muscat wine: Finely chop the shallots, sweat in soft butter, cover with muscat wine and leave to reduce. Set aside. For the ravioli
pasta: Place the ingredients in the mixing bowl, mix for 5-6 mins. Shape into a soft, homogeneous ball. Leave to rest for 2 hrs. Roll the dough
twice and cut out with a circular cookie cutter 8 cm in diameter. Garnish the middle of the dough circle with 1 teaspoon of shallots candied
in muscat wine. Add 1 tablespoon of spider crab meat, moisten the edge of the pastry circle with water, cover with another circle of dough
and seal. Cook the ravioli for1 minute in boiling water. For the prisuttu ham crumble: Cook the prisuttu slices between
2 hotplates for 30 mins at 100°C. Mix. For the citron brûlé: Place the lemons in the oven at 100°C for 45 mins. Once cooled, cut the lemons
in half and remove the flesh with a teaspoon. To serve: Place the scorpion fish millefeuille on the plate. Place a quenelle of citron brûlé on the
plate. In a small bowl, place the freshly boiled ravioli on a bed of warm bisque. Sprinkle with the prisuttu ham crumble before serving.
37
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
SAINT-FLORENT
MENUS LA GAFFE
Discovery menu: 58 €, Inspiration menu: prices according to ingredients,
Average à la carte price: 90 € CHEFYANN LE SCAVAREC
La Gaffe An air of la dolce vita, creativity and indulgence wafts
Le Port, 20217 Saint-Florent through the charming village of Saint-Florent. Ideally
Phone: +33(0)4 95 37 00 12 - www.restaurant-lagaffe.com located on the port, close to yachts and fishing boats, the
restaurant La Gaffe offers you a gastronomic journey on
38 the shores of the Mediterranean, brilliantly prepared by
chef Yann Le Scavarec.
A native of Morbihan, Yann Le Scavarec used to help his uncles
who were bakers in Lorient. Attracted by the delicious smells,
he used to pass by the kitchens of the gastronomic restaurant
he delivered daily to taste their sauces. Being a chef had always
been his dream. After training at the Lycée Hôtelier in Vannes,
he began his career in the starred restaurant L’Amphitryon in
Lorient before joining the gastronomic kitchens of chef Charles
Barrier in Tours. His career then led him to a luxury brasserie in
Trouville, where he joined as a sous-chef and earned his chef ’s
stripes at only 22 years of age. It is now fifteen years since he set
sail for the Ile de Beauté to take over the kitchens of La Roya in
Saint-Florent. Two years after his arrival, his work was rewarded
with a star. In 2016, wanting to express his creativity and spread
his wings, he landed in the port, at the La Gaffe restaurant,
which he took over before buying it the following year. The
contemporary and sober decoration of the room with nautical
accents, opening onto an elegant terrace bordering the quays, is
in total harmony with Yann Le Scavarec’s delicate cuisine. Like
a painter, he creates his plates according to his inspiration and
the market of the day. Colours, flavours and textures blend so
sublimely at the hands of this talented chef that one forgets all
the work and technicality involved. To make his creations, most
often inspired by the sea but not without some delicious foods
from inland, he selects the best local craftsmen, fishermen,
breeders, market gardeners... leaving nothing to chance to
showcase the work of Corsican producers. It is in the simple
yet complex alchemy of two or three products, which work well
together, that lies the magic of a honed cuisine, unfussy and
subtle at the same time, developing a delicate aromatic palette.
The captain is not alone at the helm of the ship to delight his
customers, he also relies on the support of two women, Vanessa
Crespin, his faithful sous-chef for the past six years, and his life
partner Séverine, who supervises the restaurant with warmth
and professionalism. Don’t hesitate to raise the anchor and let
yourself be carried away by a symphony of flavours concocted
with passion.
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
Citrus fruits: Jean-Marc Gandouin in Folleli
Organic vegetables: Ferme de Queccialba in Oletta
Honey: Pierre Carli in Patrimonio - www.corsemiel.com
Olive oil: Domaine Oltremonti in Linguizzetta - www.oltremonti.fr
Cheese: Fromagerie Casanova in Vallecalle
SAINT-PIERRE FISH
WITH CORSICAN ASPARAGUS AND CITRUS FRUITS
Ingredients for 4 people:
4 green asparagus • 4 Saint-Pierre fillets • 120 g citrus fruit juice • 120 g clarified butter • 2g salt • 1 orange
• 1 grapefruit • 1 blood orange • 500 g peas • 3 tsp olive oil.
Preparation time: 1 hr / Cooking time: 15 mins Food & wine pairing
Clos Teddi
For the asparagus: Heat a large volume of salted water. Peel the asparagus and cook for about 2,5 mins. Grill
Grande Cuvée 2020
on both sides and set aside. For the orange sabayon grapefruit and citrus segments: Remove the citrus Patrimonio
segments and set them aside in a box. Recover all the juice from the citrus fruits which will be used for the
sabayon. Slice the asparagus without entirely cutting them in half, use some of the citrus segments previously
removed and place them along the asparagus. Set aside. Prepare a large volume of salted water and cook the
peas. Cool them in a bowl with ice. Blend some of the peas, season to taste and keep some to decorate the
plate. Melt 120 g of clarified butter and set aside. Weigh 120 g of citrus juice into a saucepan and take 5 egg
yolks. Start whisking in the form of an 8 over a medium heat. When the bottom of the pan can be seen, the
sabayon is ready. Add the butter off the heat, salt and pepper. For the Saint-Pierre: Preheat oven to 180°C.
Season the fish with salt on both sides. Heat a large frying pan with 3 tablespoons of olive oil. When the pan
is almost smoking, place the fillets in the pan and cook over medium heat for 1 min. Turn the fillets over
and place them directly on a baking sheet. Place them in the oven for 3 mins with the asparagus. To serve:
Prepare 4 plates. Heat the puree and peas. Remove the fillets and asparagus from the oven. Form a quenelle
of pea purée. Arrange the fillet and asparagus in a row, with a few citrus segments and the sabayon next to
the asparagus.
39
GASTRONOMIC ENCOUNTERS
SARTÈNE
LA TABLE DE LA FERME
DOMAINE DE MURTOLI
CHEF LAURENT RENARD
In Southern Corsica, with its air of being World’s End,
the Domaine de Murtoli, spread over 2,500 hectares
of preserved nature along 8 km of coastline, is unlike
anywhere else. If there was ever an exceptional venue,
atypical and unique, where luxurious authenticity,
simplicity and discretion are the rule, this is it. The
authentic and refined gastronomic experience offered
by Chef Laurent Renard is equal to the beauty and
reputation of the estate.
Large terraces shaded by large sails border the sumptuous golf MENUS
course of the estate. When the weather is cooler, the large and I Piattini: à la carte menu around 50 € for 4 savoury dishes and a dessert
warm dining room with its monumental fireplaces, wooden La Table de la Ferme by Laurent Renard: à la carte menu around 150 €
ceilings and terracotta floors polished by time is a charming La Table de la Ferme par Mathieu Pacaud: 6-course menu 180 €,
setting for tasting the inspired, sober and refined cuisine of 8-course menu 320 €
Chef Laurent Renard. Originally from the south of France, and
not particularly inclined towards lengthy studies, the young La Table de la Ferme - Domaine de Murtoli
Laurent obtained a vocational training certificate in cooking Vallée de l’Ortolo, 20100 Sartène
before making his debut in Paris at the Méridien Etoile. Two- Phone: +33(0)4 95 71 69 24 - www.murtoli.com
starred chef Jean-Marie Meulien took Renard under his wing
and sent him to restaurants on the French Riviera to perfect his
skills. With these experiences behind him, Laurent left to learn
rigor and excellence from the Raimbault brothers at the Oasis
in Mandelieu la Napoule. He stayed there for 14 years, then
worked with Daniel Boulud in New York and Annie Féolde in
Florence before practicing his art as a chef at La Villa in Calvi,
where he was awarded a star. He stayed there for three years
before being appointed executive chef of the three restaurants
of the Domaine de Murtoli in 2017: La Plage, offering summer
cuisine right on the water, La Grotte and its traditional
Corsican cuisine and La Table de la Ferme. Throughout the
year, adapting his dishes to the seasons, Laurent Renard serves
excellent Mediterranean cuisine at La Table de la Ferme, which
is gourmet, balanced, generous and subtle all at the same time,
prepared using products from the estate’s farm: veal, lamb,
fruit, vegetables and herbs from the garden, edible flowers, eggs
from the henhouse, cheese from the farm’s shepherds, olive oil
from the mill and honey from the estate… When necessary, he
supplements his produce with ingredients from friends who are
local farmers and fishermen. Another taste experience offered
is a series of small dishes, I Piattini, featuring a range of island
flavours. On summer evenings, the multi-starred Parisian chef
Mathieu Pacaud comes to contribute to the tasting experience
at La Table de la Ferme. All that remains to be done is take
to the countryside and indulge in these delicacies to taste the
flavours of the island.
THE CHEF’S RECOMMENDED ADDRESSES
DPO Charcuterie: GAEC Felix Torre in Cuttoli, nustrale cattle breeder
and selector - www.cuttoli.fr and Jonathan Juste in Pie-d’Orezza, also a nustrale
cattle breeder and selector
40
SAUTEED NUSTRALE VEAL
CHOPS AND GREEN ASPARAGUS
WITH VULETTA, AND NEPITA FLAVORED
COOKING JUICES
Ingredients for 4 people:
4 boneless veal chops (approximately 180 g each) • 12 green asparagus • 100 g sliced Vuletta
• Veal gravy • Nepita herbs (wild marjoram) • 3 garlic cloves • 1 lemon • 50 g butter • 20 cl melusine
• Edible flowers • Olive oil from the Domaine de Murtoli • Fleur de sel • Salt • Pepper • Thyme.
Preparation time: 20 mins / Cooking time: 10 mins Food & wine pairing
Peel the asparagus and remove the hard part of the vegetable. Fill a couscous pot with water, add salt, Château Prince Pierre
Napoléon Bonaparte 2020
lemon zest and a few Nepita leaves. Steam the asparagus for 5 minutes and then roll it in a slice of
Vuletta. Finish cooking the asparagus in a non-stick pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a clove of garlic.
Season the veal chops and brown them in a frying pan with a drizzle of olive oil. Add butter, garlic
and thyme to enrich the meat at the end of cooking. Remove the ribs, remove the fat from the pan,
deglaze with the melusine, reduce and moisten with the veal juice. Add the Nepita and reduce to the
desired consistency. Trim the veal ribs and cut them in half lengthwise. Arrange the pieces of veal and
3 asparagus on the plate. Make a ribbon of sauce around the meat, add fleur de sel and a few edible
flowers as decoration.
41
PRODUCTS © Odarc / JC Attard
CORSICA
AN AUTHENTIC LAND
Corsica abounds in products and know-how testifying to its rich history and its geographical
location in the Mediterranean heart. The Corsicans knew how to extract the richness of nature
and to work them to propose authentic products. Citrus fruits, flours, honeys, delicatessen,
cheeses... We suggest you to discover the essential products of the island of Beauty.
By Aurélie Hallereau
FRUITS, VEGETABLES,
CONDIMENTS, FLOUR AND HONEY...
THE CORSICAN CLEMENTINE IGP THE CORSICAN POMELO IGP
Unique French clementine, the Corsican clementine is mainly found in If the culture of citrus fruits is very old in Corsica, the pomelo
the eastern plain of the island, from Bastia to Porto Vecchio, between
2 and 300 meters of altitude. The Corsican clementine benefits from (originating from the Antilles) was implanted in Corsica in the
a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) guaranteeing its quality, its 1990s with the variety with red flesh Star Ruby. This seedless
traceability and its freshness. Harvested by hand with its leaves, its fine
and shiny skin reaches its maturity and its coloring naturally on the tree. fruit has a smooth and fine skin of yellow color which can
Rich in vitamins and trace elements, this juicy fruit with a delicately present a spot of orange-red color. Its very juicy flesh is pink to
acidic taste is harvested from October to January depending on the purple red. Its taste is fragrant and sweet, with some acidity,
variety: Caffin (early), Commune SRA and Oraval (in season) or Nules but without bitterness. Its gustatory qualities and its method
(late). of production have earned it recognition from the National
Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO). In 2014, it obtained
a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), guaranteeing
excellence and know-how. In the orchards particularly well
exposed, it is found from February but the harvest is mainly
from March to June.
THE CORSICAN KIWI IGP
Appeared at the beginning of the seventies, the kiwi culture
developed in Corsica in front of the increasing demand of the
consumers. Its orchards extend mainly on the eastern side of
the island. Thanks to the climatic conditions and the know-
how of Corsica in fruit growing, the Corsica kiwi is, since 2020,
recognized by a protected geographical indication.
THE CORSICA LEMON
Originally from Southeast Asia, the lemon was the first one to
arrive in Europe. Cultivated in the Mediterranean, it arrived in
Corsica in the first century of our era thanks to the sailors. This
large oval to round fruit, often dented, is harvested from September
to January. Its zest is candied and used in pastry, confectionery
(nougats, fruit jellies...) and in spirits. Candied, the Corsica citrus
takes a pretty translucent color. The liqueur of lemon is realized
from the peel of the fruit.
PRODUCTS
THE ALMOND THE HAZELNUT OF CERVIONI IGP
Traditionally cultivated on the eastern coast of the island, in
First almond producing region in France, Corsica defends a
reasoned culture and the quality of the varieties that grow on Ampugnanu, Casinca and Costa Verde, the hazelnut of Cervioni IGP
their soil. More than in table fruit, fresh or dry, it is especially
in pastry and confectionery that the use of almonds remains delivers a frank and clear taste which can be slightly wooded. It can
be eaten as a dry fruit as an aperitif or as a dessert. It is also used
the most sustained: canistrelli, nougats, calissons, sugared in a wide range of derived products: cream, oil, flour, chocolate,
nougat, honey... It has given birth to a spread, Nuciola, as well as to
almonds, coated almonds, roasted salted or sweetened,
almond powder and paste. a condiment: Salinu (crushed hazelnuts and organic salt).
CHARDS
Very widespread on the island, the cultivation of
chard is done in private gardens as well as in market
gardens. Chards also grows wild in nature. It is
mainly the green part that is used in traditional
culinary preparations. Chards is the basis of herbal
dishes such as pie, storzapeti, tart… Although
production is possible all year round, temperate periods
are more favorable..
THE ARTICHAUT THE CHESTNUT
In Corsica, the production of the The particularity of the Corsican chestnuts lies in the
fact that the separation between the fruit and the
artichoke extends from Biguglia to bug is done naturally. The use of these fruits varies
the south of Aléria and from Ajaccio according to the period of harvest. At the beginning
to Bastelicaccia. Originally from the
west of the Mediterranean, the artichoke of the season, the chestnuts are boiled in salted water
with fennel (e ballotte). Otherwise, they are delicious
is used in the composition of many traditional
roasted. Mainly transformed into flour, chestnuts
Corsican dishes such as stuffing, new vegetables are also marketed as candied chestnuts, jams and
in jars or simply in salads. Cooked, the artichoke
is delicious with a good vinaigrette but it must be liqueurs.
consumed quickly.
44
THE SWEET ONION OF THE CAPE CORSICA THE CORSICA OLIVE OIL AOP
Commonly called the Sisco onion because of the The quality and the typicity of the Corsica olive oil « Oliu di
Corsica « are recognized by an Appellation of Controlled and
importance of its cultivation in this town, the sweet onion Protected Origin (AOC/AOP). These official signs of quality
of Cape Corsica has been cultivated in this area for a very guarantee that the olive oil was produced in Corsica, with local
long time. From the aromatic point of view, the Cape
Corsican onion differs from other varieties by its great varieties of olives, according to a historical know-how but with
modern cultural methods and respect for the environment. The
sweetness, the weakness of its tear factor as well as the Corsican olive oil is marked by an extreme sweetness due to the
original proportion of its aromatic compounds. It can be harvest of the fruits at an advanced maturity. When tasted, the
found on the shelves as early as July, before its complete intense perfumes of the Corsican maquis explode in the mouth.
The Corsica olive oil is declined in two ranges: one more «fresh»
maturity.
resulting from the harvest on the tree and with the aromas of
almond, artichoke, hay, dried fruits or apple; the other more»soft
« resulting from a method of ancestral harvest by natural fall on
nets, with the aromas of black olive, dried fruits or flowers of the
scrubland.
THE CORSICA HONEY AOP
The honey of Corsica `` Mele di Corsica « benefits from an
AOC Protected designation of origin and from its European
equivalent, the AOP Protected designation of origin. An official
sign of quality that covers the entire range of varieties with
the following names: Spring, Maquis of spring, Miellats of the
maquis, Chestnut grove, Maquis of summer and Maquis of
autumn. Products of complex floral composition with typical
markers of the island flora, the honeys of Corsica must come
from nectars and/or honeydews gathered by the bees of Corsica
ecotype on the spontaneous and natural plant associations
of Corsica. The hives are smoked with natural fuels such as
pine needles, eucalyptus leaves or rosemary. According to the
varieties, the harvests are spread out from April to February.
THE CORSICAN CHESTNUT FLOUR AOP
The Controlled and Protected Designation of Origin (AOC/AOP) «
Farine de châtaigne corse - Farina castagnina corsa « guarantees that
the chestnut flour has been produced in Corsica with local chestnut
varieties, respecting traditional techniques and ancestral know-
how without chemical treatments. The Corsican chestnut flour is
characterized by its sweet taste, its fineness, its biscuity taste and
its melting in the mouth. Ally of the gastronomy, it participates in
the preparation of numerous recipes, salty or sweet, traditional or
innovative. It can be found in emblematic preparations such as fritters,
nicci, pulenda. It can also replace wheat flour in the composition of
many common products: bread, pasta, cakes, pancakes, breadcrumbs…
45
PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
OF THE LAND
THE NUSTRALE BLACK PIG
Present on the island for thousands of years, the Corsican
pig is a slow-growing animal characterized by its hardiness
and its ability to walk. Officially recognised in 2006, the
Nustrale is the traditional pig breed of the island of Beauty.
This endemic breed and the acorn or chestnut finishing
phase of the animals are the main foundations of the
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and its European
counterpart the AOP. The emblematic Corsican pig is the
raw material for three AOP cured meats: Prisuttu, Lonzu
and Coppa. Other pork products complete the range:
Salciccia, Ficatellu, Salamu, Panzetta, Bulagna...
PRISUTTU AOP
The Jambon sec de Corse or Corsican dry ham - Prisuttu is the fresh leg
of «Nustrale» pork salted with dry sea salt without any other additive or
preservative, dried and matured for at least 12 months. Prisuttu has a rather
elongated shape and is characterized by a rich aromatic bouquet, a sweet
nutty flavor, a great smoothness and a rather firm texture. This delicatessen
is distinguished by its deep red color and the thickness of the fat. It is eaten in
shavings...
CORSICAN COPPA AOP
Corsican coppa or Coppa di Corsica» is a pork loin salted with sea
salt, dried and matured. Cylindrical in shape and embossed
with a visible string, the Coppa must be matured for at least
5 months. It is distinguished by its deep red color and
marbling, a complex aromatic bouquet, a good creaminess,
a mild, nutty flavor and a dry texture. When sliced, the
intermuscular fat is visible. Coppa is generally eaten from May
until December for the best pieces. It is eaten in slices or strips
2 mm thick.
CORSICAN LONZO AOP
Before being marketed, the «Lonzo de
Corse or Corsican lonzo - Lunzo» must be
at least 3 months old. Lonzo is a salted,
dried and matured pork loin that can be
recognised by its parallelepiped shape,
variable length and embossed with visible
stringing. This typical delicatessen from
the island of Beauty is characterized by
light and fresh aromas, a mild flavor, a
slight unctuousness and a firm and dry
texture. When sliced, it has a red, marbled
muscle and a layer of covering fat.
© Odarc / L Ouezan
© Rémy Cortin
© Odarc / L Ouezan THE CABRI
An emblematic animal in Corsica, the cabri
has been present throughout the island for
thousands of years. An essential dish for the
festive season, particularly for the end of year
celebrations, the cabri is an extremely tender
meat that can be eaten roasted or cooked in a
sauce, accompanied for example by chestnuts.
Fed exclusively on their mother’s milk,
these goats have never grazed before being
slaughtered. This is part of what makes the
the quality and delicacy of their meat.
SUCKLING LAMB
Stemming from an ancestral tradition, sheep breeding comes
exclusively from Corsican sheep breeds. Fed under the mother’s
care from birth to slaughter, Corsican suckling lambs benefit
from high quality milk, rich in fat, proteins, vitamins and
minerals. It is the method of rearing that makes this meat so
tender and tasty that it can be eaten roasted or in sauce.
Traditionally, the offal is eaten on skewers cooked over a wood
fire, wrapped in the crépine and basted with a vinegar sauce
or, more generally, cooked in a pan. Suckling lamb is a seasonal
product, traditionally consumed during the Christmas and Easter
periods. For several years now, the sector has been involved in a
double certification process: IGP (GPI) and Label Rouge
(Red Label).
CORSICAN VEAL
Raised in its mother’s womb, the Corsican veal grows
in freedom in the middle of nature, making the most
of the natural resources of the environment. Typical
taste, flavor and pinkish color of the flesh are the
result of this great breeding tradition. In fact, it is the
consumption of grass and scrubland vegetation that
gives Corsican veal its distinctive color on the market
and gives it its special flavor. Sautéed, roasted in
the oven or simply grilled, Corsican veal delivers its
authentic and fragrant taste.
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PRODUCTS © Odarc / JC Attard
© OdarcCHEESES
Jewel of gastronomy, Corsican cheeses all have © Odarc / JC Attard
their own character. here are some
must-haves!
BROCCIU PDO
A must of the island gastronomy, Brocciu is a cheese made of goat
or ewe’s milk, or even both mixed together. Exceptional, it is the
only French cheese in AOC resulting from the whey (lactoserum).
To the whey added with salt, we add a maximum of 25% of whole
raw milk. Its production begins in November, after the weaning of
the lambs and kids, and ends in May/June, when the milk becomes
less rich. Brocciu can be refined. In this case, it is dry salted on the
surface after 24 hours of draining and then transported to a cool
room where it can remain from 15 days to several months. This
cheese is perfect for pastries (fiadone, imbrucciate...) or culinary
preparations (stuffed artichokes, mint omelet...). It can also be
eaten plain, or with a hint of myrtle brandy!
CHEESE OF CALENZANA
Mainly made from goat’s milk, this soft cheese with a
washed rind is square in shape with slightly rounded
corners. Before being tasted, this cheese must be
matured for at least four months. It can be eaten fresh
or «vechju», up to one year after maturing. This cheese
is made in the production area of Calenzana and the
surrounding areas in Balagne in Haute-Corse.
BASTELICA CHEESE
This soft cheese with a bloomy rind made from raw ewe’s
or goat’s milk has a cylindrical, irregular and crushed
shape. Creamier in winter, its paste has a color that can
go from white to ivory. After salting and unmoulding,
it is left to drain. It is eaten after at least one month of
maturing.
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