MASTERCHEF 17 ANGLAIS

A HOMERIC DESTINY
The site of the Agriates comes from the Latin Ager meaning
«Agriculture». The cultivated land, which provided food for
centuries, fed the local population until the middle of the 20th
century. During the First World War, Corsica lost many young men
and the agricultural land was deserted. The term «Desert» came
into use. At the end of the sixties, Jo Poli, Marie-Brigitte’s father,
undertook to tame the wilderness and to breathe agricultural
life into the Teddi place. He planted vines and, by dint of courage
and determination, succeeded in creating an estate of 40 hectares
planted with Niellucciu, Vermentinu and Sciaccarellu. But in 1991,
disaster struck. Jo Poli died two years after his wife. Marie-Brigitte
was only 17 years old. Devastated and distrustful, she was faced
with a painful dilemma: to abandon the estate that her father had
developed with determination or to continue the activity while
knowing nothing of the winegrowing profession. The choice was
the duty of memory and the will to perpetuate her father’s work.
From then on, the young woman knew that her destiny was sealed.

THE ESTATE AND A LIFELINE!
At the age of 22, Marie-Brigitte Poli began to commit herself to
the work of the estate and threw herself wholeheartedly into
the job. «I have no knowledge of either the vine or the wine... It’s
a real challenge! Will I be able to honour my father’s work, his
legacy?», doubts Marie-Brigitte who increases her efforts tenfold
and goes through the throes of destabilisation, insecurity and
collapse! «This field was my lifeline and allowed me to hold on to
my father’s memory! I finally managed to surround myself with

competent people who were willing to help me. The technicians

of the Chamber of Agriculture of Upper Corsica trained me in
vine pruning and cellar techniques, for example», explains the
winegrower. Little by little, the vineyard was restored, production

99

WINEGROWING EVASION
PATRIMONIO

was professionalised and quality improved. «I then managed to get
in touch with Claude Gros, a wonderful oenologist and consultant
at Select-Vins in Narbonne. A winemaker himself, he never imposes
his own style of wine and I am delighted with that. He discusses
in depth, improves the wines, explains things. He is clever and is
constantly looking for small or big solutions. Now he comes to the
estate three or four times a year. The vineyard is also monitored
by Anne-Gaëlle, a viticultural technician and agronomist from the
Chamber of Agriculture. For the last three years, I have been helped
above all by Anne-Laure Casanova, whom I hired as cellar master
and oenologist, she is great», says Marie-Brigitte happily.

A CHOICE RECRUIT
Anne-Laure is a native of Ajaccio and barely thirty years old. She
studied oenology in Montpellier and then travelled for four years
between the northern and southern hemispheres. In Chile, New
Zealand and Australia, she did two harvests a year in a cooperative.
She was able to adapt to large structures and alternate between
modern and old wineries. The oenologist is happy, she learns and
improves every day, she is delighted to go through the vines, to be
more in contact with the land and the biodiversity of the estate
and to work in a modern and easy to work cellar. «The gravity-fed
system for the reds is convenient and very qualitative, the wines are
gorgeous and keep well. The rosés and whites are vinified in a line
of state-of-the-art stainless steel vats, which are easily accessible
and the work is very well organised. It is the ideal cellar for the first
technical approaches in autonomy,» she enthusiastically says. «The
high-tech cellar is put at the service of tradition with its stainless
steel vats, barrel cellar, concrete vats, stoneware jars, pneumatic
press, gravity reception, bottling... All the equipment needed to
perform and innovate in terms of quality is provided. This year,
the harvest is going well, we have no problems with disease in the
rows, thanks to the natural aeration of the site and the proximity
of the sea.»

100

A PRIVILEGED TERROIR
The vineyard, from slopes to plateaus, extends over 40 hectares
around the winery up to the sea and benefits from the ecosystem of
the scrubland. The granite arena soil is aerated, porous and filtering.
The microclimate and exposure offer limited rainfall, the sunshine
and the sanitary influence of the sea breezes are significant. The
estate was awarded HVE3 (Haute Valeur Environnementale = High
Environmental Value) certification in 2020. It is also in the process
of converting to the organic label. «The vineyard is being gradually
restructured, but our vines, which are almost half a century old, are
still there, particularly for the production and authenticity of our
red wines. If the oldest vines are forty years old, the average age of
the vines is fifteen years for the whites and rosés. The island’s noble
grape varieties are favoured and we will be replanting Grenache in
three years’ time,» says Marie-Brigitte. «There are two replanting
projects underway for white and red wines. Our white wines come
from Vermentinu, the rosés from Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu and
the reds from Niellucciu and Grenache», she points out. Each year,
Clos Teddi produces 440 hectolitres of rosé, 400 hectolitres of red
and 480 hectolitres of white for 180,000 bottles. «In Corsica, I have
been working with the company Sodisco for 20 years. Delivery is
made every Monday, as well as the recovery of empty bottles and
the restocking of full ones. My wines are also available in wine
shops and in some restaurants and wine bars,» says Marie-Brigitte.
The ranges are also present in many French regions. «I export to
Asia in Shanghai, to Switzerland and Belgium and to the United
States, but unfortunately we lost the American market during the
health crisis».

A NICE RANGE OF WINES
The Clos Teddi offers two complete ranges of white, red and
rosé wines in «Tradition» and «Grande Cuvée», as well as two
specialities: «Quintessence», a late harvest of Vermentinu and
«Vintina», the anniversary wine of 20 years of vinification, created
in 2019. In the shop, you will find the subtlety, the typicity and the
energy of the Clos Teddi wines. Located on the main street of Saint-
Florent, the pretty stone shop exists since ten years. It welcomes
the visitor with a small coffee table and a chair placed on a raffia
carpet. At the back, the beautiful solid wood counter invites you
to step through the door. The shop reflects Marie-Brigitte’s style,
refined and simple, modern and traditional, bright and subdued.
The colours are peaceful and pleasant. The shelves display the
Clos Teddi ranges, above which are beautiful photos depicting
the vineyard. At the back, in a black oak cupboard, are presented
bottles of champagne, glassware and small equipment necessary
for serving wine. Sales and tasting are done directly and a shipping
service is also offered.

After twenty-two years of hard work, the Clos Teddi has become an
essential reference in the Patrimonio designation. This international
recognition is the reward for the patience and determination of
this winegrower with a strong character. Today, with strength and
charm, Marie-Brigitte is blossoming and dedicating her life to put
the finishing touches to her father’s work, in his memory. Could it
be that this destiny is influenced by Thetis?

Clos Teddi
Casta, 20246 Santo-Pietro-di-Tenda
Phone: +33 (0)9 66 82 24 07

www.closteddi.fr

101

WINEGROWING EVASION
PORTO-VECCHIO

DOMAINE DE TORRACCIA

THE PHILOSOPHICAL
QUEST OF THE TERROIR

The estate is hidden in the scrubland facing the sea, on the heights of Lecci de Porto-Vecchio in
southern Corsica. Lost in the lush vegetation, on the hilly plateaus, the rows of vigorous vines unfold
their undulating perspectives towards the mountainous blocks. On the slopes, the green plots of land,
surrounded by groves of trees, disappear towards the blue of the sea. Here, time stands still, you listen

to the plants, watch the ecosystem and learn about the land.

We turn off at the junction under the sign pointing to the estate. CHRISTIAN IMBERT, AN INSTITUTION
The pinkish-grey road winds its way inland, we go along high After spending fifteen years in Chad, Christian Imbert arrived in
forests and through hamlets, the scrubland is thick and fragrant. Corsica and fell in love with the Domaine de Torraccia. He bought
At the bend of a path, behind the holm oaks, the impressive stone it in 1964 and planted his first vines in 1966. He chose to cultivate
cellar invites us to discover it. We enter the building, the white
and red enamelled concrete vats from the sixties stand next to the the Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu and Vermentinu grape varieties,
modern equipment and the storage space dedicated to the sale.
Mosaic wall plaques serve as landmarks and a timeline. We are contrary to the fashionable varieties of the time. According
warmly welcomed by Marc Imbert, whose eyes are blue, limpid to him, «Corsican wine will only be saved on two conditions:
and luminous. Time stops, we travel with him.
preserving its typicality and reaching a high level of quality.»
At that time, it was difficult to enter the Corsican wine market

because the low yields were competing with large volumes

102

at low prices from the East Coast. After having fought for the
recognition of Corsican wines as CDO, Christian Imbert, backed by

a group of visionary winegrowers committed to the recognition

of the quality and identity of the island’s wines, founded «Uva
Corse» in 1976, the union of winegrowers who own cellars and
controlled designations of Corsica. This association driven by

enthusiasts is inspired by the respect of the land and the return
to Corsican grape varieties. The Domaine de Torraccia now covers

110 hectares and includes 41 hectares of vines and 25 hectares

of olive trees. The vines are trellised and renewed by provining

(layering). The vineyard is managed in a way that respects the life
of the soil and the biotope: the vines are treated without weed
killers, insecticides or chemical fertilisers. Christian uses green
manure, he sows lupin and the following year, vetch and rye. He

contributes to the deep rooting of the vines by working with an

inter-vine plough and a hook. The only prophylactic treatments
are Bordeaux mixture and sulphur flower. Harvesting is done by

hand.

MARC, A SON WITH A SHARP MIND Marc Imbert
Marc, Christian Imbert’s son, was born in April 1964. He grew up
on his father’s estate where he observed that the diversity of the
scrubland was reflected in the vines. Later, he began to wonder
about the winemaker’s involvement in revealing the taste of the

terroir. After some training in oenology, he left for the United

States for ten years to acquire a «philosophical background»
during which he refined and completed his knowledge of wine-
making techniques. There, he studied the problem of water stress

and realised that long prunings are better able to withstand water

shortages. «If you don’t have the capacity to draw water, you

don’t have the capacity to feed either. The real phenomenon of

water stress is a lack of nutrition, which subsequently leads to
a delay in photosynthesis. Often, when it comes to water stress,
we tend to think that the more plant material there is to feed,
the more water the plant needs! However, studies have clearly
confirmed that it is not the quantity of water that is important,
but rather the fragmented habituation of the plant to water. To

tackle water stress, it is necessary to condition the plant to a low

rate of irrigation in order to strengthen its natural resistance,»
explains Marc Imbert. His research has led him to analyse the
hydrogen protons in granite soils to understand acidification
phenomena. He also discovered that it is interesting to adapt the
diurnal cycle of microbiology to crops. «Understanding the terroir

means laying bare all the parameters we have acquired. It means
striving to understand the DNA of the terroir to better understand
the place and access the intimacy of nature,» according to him.

Marc is a wise scholar whose life is wholly devoted to the quest to
transpose the terroir into his wines. He observes the ecosystem,
he understands the living, he interprets the land and he creates

wines that touch the soul.

THE NEVER-ENDING SEARCH water shortages and intense droughts. He noticed a deactivating
effect of the microbial synergy on the plant. He has succeeded in
Three years ago, Marc told Michel Guagnini, his oenologist, that modifying the cycle for the past five years, but nothing is won!
According to him, it is necessary to let the large plant masses
he had no more inspiration and that he was looking for a new
philosophy. He noticed that from one year to the next, he never did develop and invade the maximum amount of land. The «bushes»

the same thing and that he was «always in a never-ending search». phenomenon will allow the soil to resist drought and prevent
He then directed his experiments. He tried experiments on green
manure, on the invasion of grasses and the delay of ploughing. He erosion.
wondered about Mediterranean desertification, seasonal cycles,

103

WINEGROWING EVASION
PORTO-VECCHIO

A PAMPERED VINEYARD
The 42 hectare vineyard, planted in granite arenas, has a high average
age. It is planted with 34 hectares of red Grenache noir, Niellucciu,
Sciaccarellu and 8 hectares of white Vermentinu. Marc takes great
care to improve the management of his parcels. He enriches the
life of the soil from time to time according to the needs. This year,
no mulch, no vetch, no broad bean or radish seeds. He works on
his compost and is considering fertilising with horse manure, he
uses powdered silica, mimosa decoctions and treats the vines with
homeopathic doses. Concerned about the health of his vines, he has
brought in soil from the scrubland to complete the plots on the crests
and change the ecosystem. He is trying out Cinsault-Vermentinu
and Niellucciu-Grenache co-fermentations and is even considering
a short-term programme to replant 5,000 Vermentinu vines. The
wines are exclusively organically grown. The vinification process is
done in the gravity-fed cellar on three levels and he remains faithful
to his father’s concrete and stainless steel vats, in which he refines
the blends and invents new vintages. Marc is constantly looking for
the precision of the acids in his wines. He explores the expression of
wood and tries out «brooding» wines. Recently, he has undertaken
experimental work with fermentation and maturation in «Selvatico»
barrels. All ranges combined, annual production is close to 200,000
bottles. In the future, he plans to move towards quality and to reduce
his vineyard area. He wants a pleasure transition to spend more time
in his vineyards.

OBSERVING AND RESPECTING THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
The vine grows in the scrubland and benefits from a wonderful
ecosystem, the environmental symbiosis is concentrated there.
Pruning and mowing are very well thought out and reasoned. Marc
respects his environment. If biodiversity is weakened, he lets it
regenerate without rushing it. As a nature lover, he has observed a
transitional phenomenon in the cohabitation of insect populations
and their reproduction cycle. In 2008, when he took over the estate,
Marc had only one ladybird for every fifteen vines. Today, the
ladybirds forage on one vine out of five, as they did in 1994. For the
past six years, Marc has not strayed too far from his estate, he is in
harmony with his land. He looks after life!

104

PHILOSOPHER AND ARTIST ... AND LET’S TASTE!
«Philosophy is very important, much more than technique! I was 2021 white «Domaine De Torraccia»: stainless steel tank,
lucky enough to meet people who thought about their art and I aromatic relief, notes of white flowers, vivacity, citrus, nice
developed a whole questioning process on how to «work and think salinity, the length develops fine bitters.
about one’s art», explains Marc who wishes to instil wines whose 2021 white «Oriu»: 100% stainless steel tank, notes of citrus
sensory truth is not only perceptible but also indescribable. One day, and scrubland herbs, volume and tension, juicy and salivating,
having met a renowned photographer, he asked him: «How do you nice balanced finish.
know you’re going to shoot a good photo?» The answer struck him, 2021 white «Alligria»: vinified and aged in barrels. «Rich,
«One of the things I look for is that when I press the shutter, it’s the greedy, fresh and vanilla flavoured, nicely wooded, plant and
moment when it doesn’t remind me of anything I’ve ever shot before. citrus notes, slight mineral expression on grey granite. Can be
That’s when I know the photo is good.» For Marc, «wine is the same! kept for 5 years.
You have to create a surprise!» This helps to confuse the taster. The 2017 white «Salvaticu»: marine, iodine, citrus notes, volume
wine does not exactly match those tasted, for sure, there are some and lactic complexity, a modern approach to wine. To be
differences, but there is little similarity! decanted.

WHEN ART CREATES WINE THE TOURS
Thinking about one’s art means getting to know the seasonal On foot, with a glass of wine in hand, come and discover the
dynamics that influence the plants’ metabolism. It means tasting amazing ecosystem of the Domaine de Torracia. Between the sea
the grape, understanding the forces of its evolution and perfecting and the mountains, enjoy a bike ride through the vineyards, a
one’s intimate knowledge. Working on one’s art means channelling, family outing in the heart of Corsican nature or an unusual ride in
mastering and extracting the aromatic and pedological expressions a horse-drawn carriage. The Domaine de Torracia also organises
of each parcel and completing the work. It means creating and events in the vineyards: the «Opus Corsica» classical music
raising the wine’s quintessence to the essential identity of its terroir. shows. Four shows are planned for early and late July 2022. Hay
Here, the grey granite brings the mineral bitterness, the pink granite bales are used as seats. Every Tuesday, from the beginning of
the salinity, the blue diorite spreads the minerality. As an artist, Marc July until the 13th of August, the Domaine de Torraccia gathers
has his own panel of senses, he rarely tastes other wines so as not to about 400 people and hosts Corsican music groups.
«confuse his inner oenotheque», because, when he tastes the blends,
he knows how to define their profile intuitively. Domaine de Torraccia
20137 Lecci
LET’S PLAY WITH THE RANGES... Phone: +33 (0)4 95 71 43 50
The three ranges «Domaine De Torraccia», «Alligria» and «Oriu» are www.domaine-de-torraccia.com
available in three colours, white, rosé and red. The wine is vinified
and matured in stainless steel tanks, concrete tanks or barrels. The
evolution profiles and refines the personality of the wine and the
containers bring body, volume and aromatic complexity. The fresh
wines are dynamic, crisp and full-bodied, and the reds offer well-
balanced tannins. The last cuvée, «Salvaticu», is a rich and opulent
Vermentinu fermented and aged in barrels.

105

WINEGROWING EVASION
SARTÈNE

CASTELLU DI BARICCI

THE VINE FROM MOTHER
TO DAUGHTER

The beautiful Castellu di Baricci estate spreads its shades of green over 150 hectares in the heart of
the Ortolo valley, in the village of Sartène. Between river depressions and wonderful boulders, the
road winds its way to the foot of the Omu di Cagna mountains. Meeting with Elisabeth Quilichini, who
passionately manages her estate, whose name comes from the impressive peak overlooking the natural

cirque of the valley.

We leave the Territoriale road shortly after the Ortolo bridge, dynamic and resolute, comes up to us, cheerful and smiling.
turning off at right angle to cover the ten or so kilometres
that separate us from the estate. The road winds through a ELISABETH QUILICHINI’S CAREER
breathtaking site. The mountain seems to be painted with a After an exemplary education in Paris, with a Baccalaureat
palette knife, its sides spread out huge rocky slabs from which (equivalent of Advanced level), followed by a Licence in Economics,
long vegetal waves drip. We arrive in front of three large Management and Finance (equivalent of a dregree) at the
rectangular stone pillars, topped with red tiles. We enter the University of Paris Dauphine, Elisabeth Quilichini left for Venice for
estate. The dirt driveway passes through a stunning vineyard a year with Erasmus to prepare a Master’s degree in viticulture-
lined with long, tapered cypress trees reaching up to the sky. oenology. During her Master’s degree, she did an internship at
We arrive on the high plateau near the cellar. The panorama Bernard Jeanjean, a renowned group of wine cellars in Montpellier.
is beautiful, with the vineyards and the peaks in front of us. Travelling a lot, she will go back to Italy where she will work as a
Elisabeth Quilichini, a lovely young woman with velvet eyes, wine merchant and then in wine tourism.

106

THE HISTORY OF WOMEN IN THE FAMILY MANY ACTIVITIES ON THE ESTATE
«My grandmother, Saveria Polidori de Rocca Serra, owned Dating from the end of the 19th century, the farmhouse, the wine
vineyards in Ponte-Leccia and in the region of Sartène. Widowed at cellar, the stables and the cooperage have all been renovated.
39, she recreated the San Micheli estate in 1975. After her studies Three large stone houses are available for rent. In all, they have
in Paris, my mother joined her in her wine-making activities. At 33 beds in very well equipped rooms. Large solid wood tables,
that time, the wines were sold on the vine to traders from Ajaccio, huge comfortable sofas, flower gardens, a stunning view of the
but as the sale of grapes was no longer profitable, they decided vineyards and a large turquoise swimming pool, all the ingredients
to make wine by themselves. Later on, the property was given to are there to provide a relaxing and cheerful family experience. «We
my uncle, my mother’s brother. In 2000, my parents took over the welcome large families of all generations or groups of friends»,
property and wanted to make it an estate with the family at its explains Elisabeth. The welcome is personalised with a bottle of
heart. My mother looked after the vines and my father the olive wine and a flask of oil from the estate. «The client is free and we
trees. It is thanks to them that the estate was born again. In 2010, can accommodate special requests such as babysitting, a specific
I took over the estate but my mother was still at my side,» explains lunch... As for the cooking, we collaborate with an organic market
Elisabeth Quilichini. gardener who offers seasonal products. We are going to extend and
build a new cellar in the next two or three years. We also want to
STRUCTURING AND RESPECTING THE VINEYARD build a reception room and a wine shop.»
The local grape varieties, Minustellu, Grenache, Genovese,
Nielucciu, Vermentinu, Sciacarellu are replanted and managed in THE VISIT OF THE ESTATE
organic agriculture. «Classified as Corse Sartène PDO, the vineyard The visit of the estate and the wine cellar always ends with a tasting
is managed in organic agriculture with a respectful approach to in front of the beautiful panorama. «We offer tastings of our wines
traditions, ancestral grape varieties and the terroir», Elisabeth with cheeses from the valley from local ewe breeders. We also
explains. «We have tried to create a small setting in the valley. The offer a tasting of our olive oil. Our olive grove, composed of the
Ortolo valley is a great terroir and the mountain provides a very Ghjermana and Zinzala varieties, covers seven hectares. The olives
nice coolness on summer nights.» About ten different soils with are harvested on nets and ground on site. They result in an organic
varied structures make up the 16 hectares of the estate, mainly extra virgin olive oil, a bright and glistening olive oil with notes of
granite arena, sand and silt, alluvium, clay... The three colours of cooked artichoke and hazelnut.»
the estate are generous, dynamic, powerful, complex, fine and
elegant. The «Perpetuelle» vintage offers a beautiful complexity Castellu di Baricci
for a wine which is a full-bodied, delicate, toasted, juicy, with a Vallée de l’Ortolo, 20100 Sartène
redcurrant flavour. Phone: +33 (0)9 88 99 30 62 - www.castelludibaricci.com

107

ÉVASION VIGNERONNE
RENCONTRE

LET’S DISCOVER
CORSICAN WINES

As a small nugget of the national production, the Corsican vineyard has managed to draw the best of
its assets to seduce the most specialised oenologists and become an absolute must-have wine that can
be found on the most prestigious tables. With its rich history, its ampelographic diversity and its typical
character, it has proven its qualities over time. The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Corse (CIV-
Corse = Interprofessional Council of Corsican Wines), which groups together the winegrowers of the
nine Island of Beauty PGIs, ensures and works every day to sustainably strengthen the rise in quality of
Corsican wines, so that they can meet the economic and environmental challenges they face. Interview

with Caroline Franchi, Deputy Director of the CIV-Corse.

Interview by Philippe - Text: Luc Saint-Elie

A MULTI-MILLENNIAL HISTORY one another and cultivated this land before the Genoese finally handed
Like many wine-producing regions, the history of Corsica is correlated over Corsica to France in 1768. A new era then began and with it, a
to that of its vineyards. This island, strategically located at the heart
of trade in the Mediterranean, has been the centre of all kinds of tremendous production development which doubled to reach nearly
covetousness and conflicts for centuries. Foreign powers have
succeeded one another on this land. They have all tried to shape 2 million hectolitres per year (compared to 360,000 hectolitres on
Corsica in their own image, bringing with them their own knowledge average today). An activity in full expansion which collapsed in the
and techniques. Since the Phoceans who introduced the vine to the 19th century with the phylloxera which devastated the plantations and
eastern coast of the island in 600 BC, these foreign powers have
contributed to building the island’s vineyard as we know it today, with stopped the development of the vineyard. The history of the Corsican
its rich ampelographic heritage. Etruscans, Romans, Pisans... followed
vineyard is therefore not straight line. It is particularly marked by a
certain number of political, economic but also environmental crises. A
new crisis occurred in 1970 after 17,000 Algerian repatriates settled in
Corsica in the 1960s. They developed a productivist viticulture in which

108

the native grape varieties were substituted by non-native varieties and © Rémy Cortin
the island’s vineyards were on the verge of extinction. In the middle of
the 1970s, it experienced the greatest crisis in its history with national Caroline Franchi, Directrice Déléguée du CIV-Corse
and international overproduction in the low-end wine segment. This
«Wine Paris» held last February. Very present in Germany, Belgium,
crisis led to the uprooting of 25,000 hectares of vines on the island, the United Kingdom and the United States, Corsican wines have a good
reputation. No less than 20% of the production is consumed abroad,
deeply changing the landscape, both in terms of wine production while 35% of the production is sold on the island and 45% on the
and society. The woes of Corsica’s winegrowers were many: little or continent.
no image, virosis, loss of identity, ampelographic amnesia... Corsica’s
A QUALITY EXPLOSION FRAMED BY NINE PDOS AND ONE PGI
winegrowing history could therefore have come to an end. But, in the In Corsica, there are nine protected designations of origin (PDO) and
one protected geographical indication (PGI). If we count in Corsica
face of this unprecedented crisis, the profession did not falter and more than thirty insular grape varieties, 4 of them structure the
specifications of the PDO: in red, Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu; in white,
gave itself the means to bounce back by rethinking its production Vermentinu and Muscat Petits Grains. The Ajaccio PDO extends from
the Gulf of Porto to the borders of the region of Sartène. It is in these
model. Quality, typicality and singularity were the key words. The lands that the Sciaccarellu grape was born. The Patrimonio PDO, the
oldest designation, is located on the slopes of Saint Florent. As with the
emerging organisations that are the Groupement Intersyndical des Calvi PDO, which is located in the Balagne region, between Calvi and Ile-
AOC (GIAC = CDO Inter-union Group), the Centre de Recherche Viticole Rousse, the winegrowers there mostly follow organic farming methods.
de Corse (CRVI = Corsican Wine Research Centre) and the Conseil
Interprofessionnel des Vins de Corse (CIV-Corse = Interprofessional
Council of Corsican Wines) were going to accompany the restructuring

of the vineyard by planting quality grape varieties and modernising
the production tools. If the qualitative revolution initiated in the 1980s
was underway, it came up against a new crisis in the early 2000s. After
more than three decades of interrupted development, the context
of the world wine crisis deeply affected Corsica. To face this, the
industry body - the CIV-Corsica - negotiated a plan to revive viticulture
between 2006 and 2008, in order to structure the vineyard more. On
an individual level, this resulted in the renovation of the cellars, an
assistance on export markets or at trade fairs... On a collective level,
the interprofession recruited an economic and communication agent,

who would help meet the challenges of international competition.
Fifteen years have passed and Corsican wines have been able to take
advantage of this restructuring. Today, when we talk about wine in

Corsica, the word «treasure» takes on its full meaning! Rich of their

common rough history, of their ampelographic diversity and strong of
their typicity, they were able to convince by their quality. Another sign
of the Corsican vineyard’s revival is that it is at the forefront in terms
of conversion to organic farming: 32% of the surface area is in organic
farming (compared to 22% on the continent). In 2020, 99 estates were
either organic or in AB (Agriculture Biologique = Organic Agriculture)
conversion. «The Corsican winegrowers do not make organic wine just
for the sake of it or for marketing, it is a real awareness and a necessity»,
says Caroline Franchi. «The Corsican winegrowers are driven by a
desire to work with respect for the land and the environment. As proof,
many young winegrowers practice biodynamics». It should be noted

that the Patrimonio PDO has included a ban on the use of glyphosate
in its specifications and that the Calvi PDO will soon be one of the first
fully organic designations in France. Caroline Franchi concludes by
saying that «the challenge is both environmental and cultural».

RENOWNED WINES
The island’s vineyards are world-renowned, and today, there are 135
individual wine cellars and 4 cooperative cellars producing 50 million
bottles each year. The breakdown is 47% rosé, 34% red and 19% white
for the individual cellars and 81% rosé, 11% white and 8% red for the
cooperative cellars. As a result of this joint action, the collective is now
very strong around the Corsican vineyard. Winegrowers, wine waiters,
great chefs are proudly united around the»Vins de Corse» (= Wines of
Corsica) brand. The craze for Corsican wines can be seen at the various

trade fairs in which the interprofession takes part, such as the recent

109

ÉVASION VIGNERONNE
RENCONTRE

About the Corse Coteaux du Cap Corse PDO, Bishop Giustiniani, Centre). For red wines, the two main varieties are Niellucciu, planted
former advisor to Francis I, who described Corsica for the Genoese, in the north (Patrimonio), which gives a powerful, full-bodied wine,
and Sciaccarellu, planted in the south-west (Ajaccio), which offers a
wrote «The wine of Cap Corse is the right eye of this region». The crisp, spicy and supple wine with a strong aromatic potential. When
Corse-Figari PDO is the most southern vineyard of Corsica, it is blended, Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu can produce exceptional wines,
the former providing structure and the latter, elegance. They are
located northwest of Bonifacio. It would be the oldest vineyard in sometimes associated with classic grape varieties such as Grenache,
Corsica and even in France. The Muscat du Cap Corse PDO produces Syrah or Mourvèdre. Corsican white wines are mainly made from
a Muscat that is rightfully renowned. It is an exceptional wine that Vermentinu, a grape variety found in the CDOs of the south of
France (Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence...) under the name of Rolle.
some winemakers offer in tasting cellars. It can also be found on The Muscat du Cap Corse (outstanding, very fresh, more subtle and
certain Michelin-starred tables. It is a wine that must be explained less sweet than those of the continent) is made from Muscat blanc à
and accompanied. The vines of the Porto-Vecchio PDO, situated on petits grains. To these grape varieties used for the PDO, we must add
a long list of other Corsican grape varieties: Biancone, Barbarossa,
hillsides, produce an elegant and bodied red wine from a blend Pagadebiti, Minustellu, Vintaiu, Brustianu, Aleaticu, Muriscu,
of Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu and Grenache. As for the Corse-Sartène Riminese, Carcaghjolu Neru, Carcaghjolu Biancu, Genovese, Biancu
Gentile, Cudiverta, Murescola, Rossula Biancu, Cualtacciu, Rossula
PDO, it offers wines with a strong character made from Sciaccarellu, Brandica...
Niellucciu, Barbarossa or Vermentinu grapes. Finally, the Corsica
A WINE ROUTE UNDER CONSTRUCTION
PDO, the only «regional» type designation, covers the entire eastern To discover all the facets of the Corsican vineyard, there is a
wine route in Patrimonio and in Balagne. In the near future,
seaboard between Bastia and Solenzara. The vineyards are planted the interprofession would like to offer a global coverage of the
Corsican vineyard. A lot of information made available to visitors
in the only plain of the island, they are leaning against the rocky will allow to list the wine tourism activities proposed by the
ridges which culminate at more than 1,000 metres. Alongside these vineyards and will highlight the work of the wine growers. To be
nine designations, there is a PGI: the Island of Beauty PGI. This sign continued.

of quality under the European label covers all the island’s wine- Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Corse
7 boulevard du Général de Gaulle
growing areas. Some estates choose this designation to produce 20200 Bastia
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 32 91 32
more personal vintages, often top-of-the-range vintages made from www.vinsdecorse.com
island grape varieties not included in the specifications of the nine
PDOs. The incredible variety of Corsican terroirs is reflected in the
amazing number of grape varieties specific to the island that are
used by the winegrowers. In the 1950s and 1960s, a first generation

of winegrowers became aware of the importance of the island’s
grape varieties. The Domaine de Vassal sur le Continent collection
(1959) and the Domaine Comte Abbatucci (which has created a real

conservatory of Corsican grape varieties) are home to the island’s
first grape varieties. All the Corsican heritage grape varieties are
listed, vinified and currently being worked on by the CRVI (Centre
de Recherche Viti-vinicole Insulaire = Corsican Wine Research

110

CORSICAN GRAPE
VARIETIES

QUIZ 1 - Niellucciu grape variety is:
a) A cousin of the Tuscan variety Sangiovese used to make Chianti,
CORSICAN ROSÉS it represents 35% of the Corsican vineyard and is the basis of the
reputation of the Patrimonio PDO.
b) A hybrid grape variety obtained from Syrah.
c) Used for sweet white wines.

2 - Corsican PDO wines:
a) Must use blends of the 30 grape varieties listed on the island.
b) Use 4 native grape varieties: Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu, Vermentinu and
Muscat Petits Grains.
c) Do not have any reference grape varieties, the attribution of the PDO
being linked solely to the location of the terroir.

1 - The «Just Rosé» operation is: 3 - In the Corsican vineyard, there are in total:
a) A set of brochures explaining how rosé wines are made in Corsica. a) Only 4 native grape varieties, those used by the PDOs.
b) A Wine Truck which travels around Corsican towns during the b) 30 native grape varieties listed by the CRVI.
month of August with two wine waiters on board to present the c) The same grape varieties as in the Provençal vineyards.
island’s wines.
c) An operation of the interprofession to invite the wine growers to 4 - The Sciaccarellu grape variety:
produce only rosé wines. a) Bears a name that means «dark or black» because of its thick skin
and small, very dark and purplish grapes.
2 - Corsican rosés: b) Has a light-coloured bunch, a very thin skin, an abundant pulp
a) Are identical in every way to Provençal rosés. and very small seeds. You can see through the skin. It is called
b) Look similar to Provençal rosés (pale translucent pink hues), but «Sciucitaghlolu», which means «which bursts or crunches under
the use of local grape varieties (notably Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu) the tooth».
gives them their own personality with a perfect balance between c) Is used exclusively for Muscat du Cap Corse.
roundness of fruit and crispness (meaning of the word «Sciaccarellu»
in Corsican). 5 - The Muscat Petit Grains grape variety:
c) Are different from other rosés because of a production method a) Is found in varying proportions in all Corsican PDOs.
that is very specific to the island. b) Is mainly a table grape.
c) Produces sugar-rich musts that enable the production of natural
3 - Corsican rosés: sweet wines with great aromatic delicacy. It is the only grape variety
a) Are table wines not concerned by the designations. of the Muscat du Cap Corse PDO.
b) Represent 5% of PDOs.
c) Represent 56% of PDOs and 76% of PGIs.

4 - The «Ile de Rosé» project is:
a) A general promotional campaign for rosé wines produced in

Corsica.
b) A project launched on the initiative of several cooperative
wine cellars and an individual wine cellar to produce a jewel rosé

representative of a strong Corsican identity and promoted as a PGI for

the Island of Beauty.
c) A nickname for Corsica which highlights the fact that all the wines
produced are rosés.

5 - The production of rosé wines:
a) Represents15% of Corsican production which is mainly focused
on red wine.

b) Is marginal, the Corsican grape varieties are poorly adapted to this

production.
c) Represents 68% of Corsican wine production.

Answers: Corsican rosés quiz: 1 - (b) - 2 - (b) - 3 - (c) - 4 - (b) - 5 - (c) - Corsican grape varieties quiz: 1 - (a) - 2 - (b) - 3 - (b) - 4 - (b) - 5 - (c)

111

RENCONTRE

A FUNDAMENTAL ROLE

Regulating land on an island with a gorgeous coastline likely to attract all kinds of covetousness and
practicing extensive quality agriculture, the role of Safer Corse is not simple, but it is fundamental. Interview

with Antoine Vallecalle, Deputy Director General of Safer.

Interview by Sylvie and Philippe Heullant - Text: Luc Saint-Elie

BIRTH OF THE CORSICAN SAFER
Although the Safer were created by the agricultural orientation

laws of 1960 and 1962, the same cannot be said for the Corsican

Safer. It was not until 1977, i.e. 15 years later, that it came into

being, two years after the events in Aléria. With the independence

of Algeria in 1962, more than 17,000 pieds-noirs (mostly
farmers) settled in Corsica. The government granted them land
and facilities, to the detriment of the Corsicans. In August 1975,

the occupation of a pied-noir wine grower’s farm in Aléria and the

disproportionate response of the Minister of the Interior led to

a tragedy that greatly contributed to the emergence of Corsican

agricultural unionism and, more broadly, of Corsican nationalist
sentiment. It was in a difficult context, both on an agricultural
and political level, that Safer Corse took its first steps. During the
first few years, its land action focused partly on the management
and redistribution of the property initially allocated to these large
wine growers repatriated from North Africa, for the benefit of
young farmers. Nearly 6,000 hectares will be retroceded during

this period. At the same time, the island’s agriculture is confronted

with European political orientations that will weaken it. After the
difficult years of 2000, the political and strategic positioning of
Safer Corse is to understand the multiple uses of land and not only
its agricultural dimension. The diversification of activities and the
new territorial challenges are pushing it to commit to supporting

local authorities in favour of rural development and an ambitious

land policy in Corsica.

© Rémy Cortin THE SAFER CORSE CHALLENGE
Today, the main challenge for Safer Corse, and its main difficulty,
Société d’Aménagement Foncier et d’Etablissement Rural, a Safer is to carry out a public service mission with the constraints of a
is a public limited company governed by common law, non-profit limited company, in a very closed market that is difficult to free
(without profit distribution), with missions of general interest and up. The geographical particularities of Corsica explain why the
under the supervision of the Ministries of Agriculture and Finance. priorities of Safer Corse are slightly different from those of other
Safer companies on the mainland. The «land potential» on the
Safer covers the whole of France and has a variety of missions like island is there, but when we analyze the regional land market,
it is constrained by the fact that the island is a mountain in the
the development of agriculture and knowledge of the territories, sea. Today, the land economy is largely a mountainous chain
with almost no land mobility. There are territories where no
observation and land monitoring. It is a real land operator for local transaction ever takes place, which proves that there is neither
interest nor stake. Often, the causes are legal, with an enormous
authorities, a reference partner. The Safer also works daily on a rate of indivision. However, these areas are indeed agricultural
and agriculture lives very well there.
subject that has become extremely important, the environment.

They contribute to the protection of landscapes, natural resources

and biodiversity.

112

STRONG LAND PRESSURE time, we see people arriving whose origins are not agricultural
The plain is subject to all sorts of land pressures, particularly and who wish to set up on small surfaces. The risk for us is to
due to the creation of necessary infrastructures. This is the identify and qualify these projects.
same phenomenon as that seen at the national level, to which
are added all the issues linked to the coastline. Agriculture is THE SAFER CORSE AMBITIONS
very constrained in these areas, which makes it very difficult to Safer Corse’s ambitions sometimes come up against ill-adapted
free up land. For Safer Corse, finding a hectare of vineyard or regulations. For example, Safer Corse would like to extend its
clementine plantation to buy is a small event that only happens action to forests, but this is covered by a separate code. The
very rarely. All the land used by agriculture fights more easily reason is simple: Corsica has many cork oak forests that produce
against the biodiversity of the soil, but the market is blocked. acorns on which Nustrale pigs feed. «We would need a regulatory
There are buy-outs, of course, but no farm takeovers in the specificity. Today, Mediterranean forests are not taken into
traditional sense. On a daily basis, Safer Corse consolidates account and they are outside the jurisdiction of Safer», regrets
and accompanies farms that have been established within five Antoine Vallecalle. Safer’s mission does not stop at agriculture.
years. In this sea-mountain duality, the complexity is major. In these missions, there is an environmental dimension that is
Land is mainly found on the coast where the most productive of major importance in a territory with 1000 km of coastline.
agriculture is located, and this productive agriculture coexists In this respect, Safer is focusing on global warming and
with the coastal areas where land is blocked, among other working on the resilience of agriculture. The company wants
things, by speculative entries. to be very innovative on development, which sometimes
clashes with local structures. Very innovative projects are
THE SAFER CORSE PROBLEMS coming in from young people who want to set up in business,
In this paradox, Safer Corse tries to free up land and, above all, especially from the point of view of quality, short circuits and
ensures that regulation is maintained to avoid a surge in land agricultural development. They are often confronted with the
prices. Despite this very low availability of land, Safer Corse non-existent land supply. The lack of available land, combined
regularly carries out support actions. «The wine market is with the island’s ideal geographical location, makes Safer’s role
closed, even padlocked, because it works well, and it’s the same and right of pre-emption fundamental. To help a young farmer
for the clementine market. On the other hand, two years ago, wishing to take over the family estate, the Safer also has an
above Aléria, we handed over a farm to parents whose young essential role to play in advising and assisting with the transfer
people were setting up in the framework of the generation of land. The Safer Corse has ideas to sell and a lot of projects
renewal. In the mountain area, we also handed over about fifty in its drawers. It is in the process of launching its multiannual
hectares with chestnut trees to a family who lived there and activity programme, which will be spread over the next seven
made and still make charcuterie, chestnut flour and a little olive years. It aims to set up an installation observatory to give a
oil. Another example, near Saint-Florent, we helped the buyer of clear view to the various holders of agricultural projects on the
a property with olive trees to convert the farm to a more agro- offer that Safer is able to propose, by territory. In addition, to
touristic version with a label», Antoine Vallecalle explains. meet the need for regulation, it is in the process of setting up
«geo-markets», land prices by territory, to ensure the greatest
THE LAND VALUATION possible legibility and transparency.
The search for value is imperative to ensure the viability of
projects and farms. At the moment, we are in the process of Safer Corse
allocating eight hectares with a beautiful stone house and we Route du stade, Lieu-dit Petraolo
are accompanying the buyers in this development project. The 0215 Vescovato
idea is to commit to the buyer for a certain period of time, with Phone: +33 (0)4 95 32 36 24
a role of control, monitoring and economic study... From time to www.corse.safer.fr

113

RENCONTRE

ANNIE AND VANINA SUZZONI the farm. In 1986, the father, retired from the army, left a plot of
RIO MAGNO FARM IN ANTISANTI land to his daughter Annie, who worked in the administration.
She decided to plant a hectare of kiwifruit, which was in vogue at
In Antisanti, a commune near Aléria, nothing predisposed Annie the time. The embryonic farm was born without any equipment,
machinery or premises... The work was done by hand. Two
Suzzoni to become a citrus fruit producer and then to organize years later, Annie planted 2.5 hectares of pomelos, which are
still grown today. At the beginning, production took a long time
the installation of her daughter Vanina with a view to passing on to get going because there was no market for the pomelo. But
Annie held on. This tenacity paid off, as production now stands
at 300 tonnes per year. In 1997, Annie wanted to expand her
farm and Safer Corse helped her. «When I learned that a plot
of land close to mine was for sale, I contacted the Safer. My
application was accepted. Of the 50 hectares put up for sale,
11.5 hectares were allocated to me, which allowed the economic
consolidation of my initial farm. The remaining 38.5 hectares
were given to two young people from the region, allowing them
to set up in business,» explains the producer. At that time Annie
was still a civil servant, she remained a civil servant until 2003,
with a dual status: as a farmer and as a local civil servant. From
that date on, she decided to devote herself full-time to farming.
The Rio Magno farm, named after the small river that runs
alongside the plantations, stopped growing kiwi fruit in 2012
and devoted itself to citrus fruit. Today, in addition to pomelos,
Annie produces 400 tonnes of clementines. In 2019, the Safer is
once again helping her by allocating a 5.5 hectare plot of land,
which will allow her to extend her farm and at the same time
plan for the installation of her daughter, who has been working
on the farm as an employee for several years. «Safer has helped
me twice, once to secure my farm, and a second time to enable
my daughter to set up and prepare for the transfer of the farm
to the family.

114

COLOMBANI FAMILY Colombani then contacted the Safer, which asked him if he had
GAEC COLOMBANI A VALLE D’OREZZA
enough money to pay before launching the pre-emption procedure.
In Valle d’Orezza, the Colombani family produces chestnut flour,
their initial activity, breeds Nustrale pigs and produces organic The agreement is then requested from the bank, which gives the
olive oil. If the chestnut flour represents a large part of the
activity, the farm has 450 black pigs and produces about 2000 green light. The Safer launched the pre-emption procedure. This
liters/year of organic olive oil. In a heavily legal context, which
was followed by an eight-year legal battle, at the end of which
lasted several years, the Safer has always been at the side of Paul
Paul Colombani won his case in cassation and during which Safer
Colombani, who works with his two sons, also farmers. The story was at his side. During these eight years, the property began to
deteriorate. For example, the lot included the largest drying shed
begins 13 years ago, the day the owner of the local castle puts
in Castagniccia, whose roof collapsed, and the barn collapsed too.
60 hectares of land in a single block up for sale. Paul Colombani,
One of the main arguments used by Paul Colombani’s opponent
a local boy, remembers, «I knew the place well, I dreamed of it
is that there are chestnut trees on the property and that in fact
when I was a child. When everyone learned that the land was for
it is outside the jurisdiction of the Safer (which cannot preempt
sale, it was already done, a billionaire had just bought it. Paul forests). «Basically, the chestnut tree in Corsica is not considered
to be a fruit tree,» explains Paul Colombani, «as a result of the

little arrangements made by the administrations for subsidies

linked to the forest, this prevented Safer from pre-empting. Safer

once again intervened on behalf of the Colombani farm on the

occasion of the sale of the Casabianca wine estate, presented as

one of the largest wine estates in Corsica. Taken over through the
Fonds Foncier Agricole, financed by the Collectivité de Corse and
ODARC, the Safer divided the estate among 20 young farmers who
were each given the opportunity to acquire 20 hectares. One of

Paul Colombani’s sons is among those selected. The work of Safer

at his side, often in adversity, is welcomed by Paul Colombani,

«there is land that is sold at crazy prices. Safer is there to regulate,
Antoine (editor’s note: Antoine Vallecalle, Deputy General
Manager of Safer) has a very difficult role, his telephone rings all
the time. Fortunately, when a lot is allocated, it is done in a public

way. Antoine has patience, he knows how to carry things, but to

do the job he has done during these years when speculation is at

its peak, deserves a tip of the hat.

115

ITINERARIES

© JC Marsily

CORSICA

A PLACE OF ENCOUNTERS

The itineraries we have conceived to discover Corsica offer you the opportunity to explore
its various aspects, to follow the coastline in search of beaches and coves, to wander through
the hinterland to discover the hidden charms of the small picturesque villages and to meet
the producers of olive oil, cheese or delicatessen products... In short, we offer you a tourism of

character to understand a beautiful culture... That of the land.

ITINERARIES
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY

THE AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY
STRADA DI I SENSI

La beauté de la Corse rurale

A gastronomic region par excellence, Corsica has much to share with those who take the time to explore it.
Venture along the Authentic Senses Way to discover another vision of the «Island of Beauty» and taste its local

products. You won’t be disappointed.

Interview by Aurélie Hallereau - Text: Tatiana Gieselmann

© JC Attard

THE SOUL OF THE ISLAND OF BEAUTY «  Eating is incorporating a territory  »
Leave the beaten track and the clichés about Corsica to discover
the Authentic Senses Way - A Strada di I Sensi. Meet the men Jean Brunhes
and women, farmers and craftsmen, who embody the soul of
the island of beauty. Preserving ancestral know-how, respecting TASTE CORSICA
the land and the seasonal nature of the products, they choose to The Authentic Senses Way is made up of more than 500 members,
create a close relationship between producers and consumers in
order to help people discover their products and their land. It is farmers and craftsmen who open the doors of their farms and
this unique approach that tourists will find along the Authentic
Senses Way - A Strada di I Sensi, a sale without intermediaries workshops to people who want to taste, understand and learn about
but also a catering, accommodation and leisure offer allowing the richness of the island of Beauty. The Office du Développement
them to discover Corsica in a different way, as a true land of Agricole et Rural de Corse (ODARC, Office of Agricultural and Rural
agriculture. Development of Corsica) has developed the agritourism route
called Route des Sens Authentiques - Strada di I Sensi, focusing on

the discovery of products with the PGI (Protected Geographical
Indication) and PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) labels. Thus,
you will taste Corsican honey, hazelnuts from Cervione and wines

118

© Lea Eouzan Pieri

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW! as only the island knows how to produce them. Build a privileged
relationship with the farmers, craftsmen and cultural actors you
Corsica is one of the French regions that has obtained the will meet on your Authentic Senses Way. From a horse ride to a table
largest number of official quality signs. Sixteen products have a d’hôte, via a botanical discovery walk, discover another Corsica, its
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO): Corsican wines (9 PDOs), soils, its inhabitants, their conviviality, their sense of sharing after
Brocciu, Corsican olive oil, Corsican honey, Corsican chestnut having created your own road book.

flour, Corsican dry cured ham, Corsican Coppa and Corsican YOUR LOG BOOK
Lonzo. The Corsican Clementine is awarded a Protected For a customised discovery of the Corsican soils, go to the
gustidicorsica.com (Gusti Di Corsica) website, then create your
Geographical Indication (PGI) and a Label Rouge. The Corsican account on line by clicking on «log book». Then create your log
Pomelo, the Cervione Hazelnut - Nuciola di Cervioni, the book by clicking on the «Authentic Senses Way» heading. Choose
the producers and craftsmen you want to meet either by region
Corsican Kiwi and the Wines of the Island of Beauty are also (Nebbiu - Capi corsu, Balagna...) or by category (Corsican wines,
protected by the PGI. Many Corsican farmers have joined the Corsican veal...). Your dream is to go on a journey around the
«Agriculture Biologique» (AB = Organic Agriculture) label. The olive tree? Click on the «L’Oliu di Corsica» category. You will
surface area cultivated in organic farming has almost tripled in then see the list of olive oil producers featured on the Authentic
Senses Way. Each one has his own story that you will certainly
5 years. enjoy discovering. From an unusual heritage to a childhood
passion, producers, craftsmen and cultural actors who will
mark out your route have much to share with you. Choose the
ones you want to meet from the list and add them to your log
book. You will then be able to calculate your itinerary via the
site and set off to discover this Corsica of the interior which is
worth the journey between scrubland, pure air and breathtaking
landscapes. For example, in Patrimonio, on the Authentic Senses
Way - A Strada di I Sensi, taste Pierre Carli’s Corsican Honey

119

ITINERARIES © Lea Eouzan Pieri
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY © JC Attard

– PDO Mele Di Corsica. He is nicknamed the «queen maker» © JC Attard
and raises with passion black bees of the Corsican ecotype. He
invites you to discover his hives and the benefits of his honey
during a visit to his farm. «I make different types of honey:
spring honey with a delicate taste, chestnut honey with a long
finish and a pronounced bitterness. Not forgetting the honeydew
of the scrubland and the autumn scrubland, a honey known for
the initiates...» explains the passionate beekeeper. Let yourself
be surprised by their subtle tastes while listening to Pierre
Carli telling you how he takes his bees to gather honey in the
enchanting setting of Upper Corsica. Truly another world! We
now head for the Sisco Valley where Olivier Bardin has inherited
the onion. What would you do if your great-uncle entrusted you
with a small box containing the last seeds of sweet onions from
Sisco? Would you quit your job as a civil servant in Montpellier,
as Olivier did, to relaunch the production of golden onions?
Today, this passionate producer also devotes six hectares of his
land to the production of PDO olive oil. Go and meet him on the
Authentic Senses Way - A Strada di I Sensi.

QUALITY CHARTER
Such a project is submitted to rigorous controls by the ODARC.
On the Authentic Senses Way, you are sure to find quality
products made from local raw materials, recipes that take the
seasonality of fresh produce into account and productions that
favour certified products (PDO, PGI...). During your visit, each
provider will be able to explain the origin of their products.
Only restaurants with the «Gusti Di Corsica» label can also be
members of the network.

Gusti Di Corsica
The «Gusti Di Corsica» label will be awarded to restaurants on the
island that stand out for the quality of the Corsican products used in the
preparation of their services. It will guarantee that restaurateurs use

Corsican products of proven quality.

www.gustidicorsica.com

120

© Lea Eouzan Pieri © JC Attard

ITINERARIES
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY

ON THE ROAD

OF THE AUTHENTIC
SENSES

Corsican people have a real passion for their island and for the Mediterranean and bear witness to a history and a strong
good reason. In ancient times, it was called Kalliste by the identity. No less than twelve products from Corsican agriculture
Greeks, meaning «the most beautiful»... This island, whose relief are today protected by a Controlled and Protected Designation
sharply plunges into the sea, offers to everyone the beauty of of Origin (CDO/PDO): wines, brocciu, kiwi, olive oil, honey,
its shores, its coves, its beaches, its high mountains whose late chestnut flour and cold meats. The clementine, the pomelo
snow-covered peaks watch over transparent and icy lakes, and the hazelnut are identified by a Protected Geographical
its deep valleys that end in the sea, its rivers, its fertile plains, Indication (PGI), as are the wines of the island of beauty.
its eagle-like nest villages clinging to their dizzying peaks, its Corsica and its producers wish to go even further. Many other
majestic towns steeped in history, its forests, its scrubland... The recognition procedures are underway: PDO for different types
magnificence of its Mediterranean landscapes will enthrall and of cheese and the Cap Corse onion, PGI for milk-fed lamb, kid
surround you as soon as you set foot on the island. From north and immortelle essential oil. These official labels guarantee the
to south, from east to west, each of the nine regions (which have origin and quality of the products. They also make it possible
long remained separated from each other and organised into to protect and pass on know-how in order to perpetuate these
distinct territorial entities) that make up the island has its own productions and the activities that come with them. These
personality, its own treasures to discover, its marvellous wild labels also help to maintain traditional landscapes, local breeds
landscapes between mountain and sea, coated in an unreal light. and varieties, and to maintain activity in the areas covered
One of the unrivalled riches of Corsica is the encounter with its by the designation, which are generally rural areas subject to
inhabitants. This island is full of producers, craftsmen, farmers, desertification. Masterchef Magazine takes you on the Authentic
winegrowers, breeders and beekeepers, whose know-how and Senses Way, to discover the nine beautiful Corsican regions and
respect for traditions guarantee products of outstanding quality, the producers who love their land and are proud of their tasty
products that have character, that carry all the sunshine of products. Bona strada!

122

ITINÉRAIRE

NEBBIU - CAPI CORSU

Are you looking for an exceptional natural setting? An unspoilt, inhabitants from Cap Corse offer to visitors has been a tradition
peaceful environment, a real place to recharge your batteries? for generations... Emotions, sensations, perfumes, gastronomy...
Welcome to Cap Corse, a finger pointing into the Mediterranean You will find the whole soul of Corsica here. Cap Corse is a world
sea! This unique peninsula, enhanced by the sea, the mountains apart, an «island within the island» as its inhabitants like to say.
and the wind, just a step away from Bastia and Saint Florent, has Bathing enthusiasts will be happily surprised by the unusual and
everything to please the most demanding ones. This wild region wild beaches of Cap Corse. You will also discover the terraced
has been able to preserve the beauty of nature. Hiking enthusiasts crops and the centuries-old olive groves of the fertile plain of the
will be delighted thanks to the customs path which allows them Conca d’Oru (Horn of plenty), that are the testimony of the intense
to walk around the region, to discover many authentic villages far agricultural activity of past centuries. Today, pastures and young
from any urban development, to wander along the small paths, olive groves still shape the landscape, but this land remains above
to enjoy the breathtaking landscapes and to admire the Genoese all the hotspot for Corsican winegrowing. Its clay-schist soils,
towers. Cap Corse has long been a favourite target for pirates and it sometimes softened by limestone formations, have produced
is not surprising to see many Genoese towers, these watchtowers wines which have been among the best ones in the Mediterranean
are scattered all along the coastline. The warm welcome that the since Antiquity.

Spirits Chestnut flour

Casa Angeli - Daniel and Antoine Angeli A Nebbiulinca - Aurore Sardo
Today, Casa Angeli offers around forty products based on old The brown and biscuit-like «A farina fornina» honours the sweet
traditional recipes, including Pastis Corse à l’Ancienne, which won the taste of the Muratu chestnut. Aurore has always worked on the
2013 gold medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in the spirits farm. She travels to all the fairs in France, even seducing Fauchon,
category. «Maceration of yesteryear and eau-de-vie, that’s the secret
of authentic taste!» reveals Daniel. «To obtain quality products and the prestigious Parisian grocery shop! Simultaneously, she has
strive for excellence, you have to be flawless and very demanding,» been developing a leisure centre for the past six years, which
adds Antò, now at the head of the company. A great satisfaction for his introduces people to the Nebbiu through hiking and offers guided
father who, as a young man, used to produce his own wine!
tours of Muratu and the chestnut grove.
Lieu-dit Poggiale, Rogliano Lieu-dit Milelli, Murato

123

ITINERARIES
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY

ITINÉRAIRE

CASINCA - CASTAGNICCIA -
COSTAVERDE

South of Bastia, on the east coast, lies a contrasting land where Cold meats
water is in abundance and soil is fertile. First of all, the Casinca
plain, topped by charming villages set in the greenery like Allevu di Pol di Feru - Pierre Albertini and son
balconies on the sea. Named «Rome’s granary» in ancient times, Pierre has taken over the pig farming of his ancestors, a family
this region is still the star of the island’s market garden and fruit tradition that has been passed down for three hundred years!
production, particularly a booming citrus and hazelnut culture Coppa, Lonzu, Prisuttu PDO... His cold meats are as good as the
in Cervione. Moving up inland, the chestnut tree reigns supreme. passion he has for his native land, for his village Loretu di Casinca.
The majestic villages of the Castagniccia bear witness to a glorious
past built on the exploitation of the chestnut grove, which remains Place du village, Loreto di Casinca
today the main activity of this region, with 29 outstanding and
typical villages, Romanesque chapels and convents to visit. These Citrus fruits and hazelnuts
remote villages with their lauze roofs, paved streets, small squares
and fountains are in perfect harmony with the rich and wooded PGI Clementines and hazelnuts - Jean-Paul Mancel
vegetation. On the sea side, you will have the choice between Jean-Paul Mancel has been producing clementines, pomelos,
15 fine sandy beaches ideal for swimming with the family.
almonds and, more recently, hazelnuts since 1981. He is
Vinegars and syrups President of the Association pour la Promotion et la Défense de

Les jardins d’Alesani - Patrice Bouret la Clémentine de Corse, du Pomelo de Corse et de la Noisette
Patrice Bouret has brought back to life the terraces that were de Cervioni (Association for the Promotion and Defence of the
abandoned long ago. Pears, figs, strawberries, morello cherries,
blackcurrants and raspberries grow there, before passing into Corsican Clementine, the Corsican Pomelo and the Cervioni
his copper cauldrons, for magical family recipes. Delicious syrups Hazelnut). His products can be tasted in the two country lodges
and four real vinegars: citron, fig, myrtle and raspberry, which
are macerated for three months in cider vinegar. All products are that can accommodate up to ten people.
natural and free of any additives or preservatives. Alesani’s fruits
are grown and cultivated naturally, without chemical fertilisers or Chemin Botrangulu, Valle di Campoloro

artificial pesticides. Goat cheese
Felce village, Felce
Farm - Ange-Paul Alfonsi
In the Regional Natural Park of Corsica, at an altitude of nearly 600

metres, in the middle of centuries-old chestnut trees, Ange-Paul
raises some one hundred and forty goats. Milking is done by hand in
the pure tradition! In the cheese factory, on the ground floor of their

house, his wife transforms about 120 litres of milk into delicious
fresh, white and melting cheeses. They are already a real treat as soon

as they come out of the mould!

Place du village, Pietricaggio

124

Hazelnuts

Le Verger de Raphaëlle - Raphaëlle Peignier Astima
In 2001, Raphaëlle decided to produce olives, hazelnuts and figs on
her husband’s unexploited land. She has also created an educational
farm where horses, donkeys, ponies, bees and many other animals

live in harmony. What a beautiful encounter!

Casa accinta, Ghisonaccia

Grapes

A Caspa - Louis Pinna
Louis has spent his whole life in the vineyard, first as a winegrower

and then he decided to convert the estate into table grapes. The
various varieties of red and white grapes meet the requirements of
gourmets who are looking for the freshness of a grape harvested on
the day. In summer and winter alike, Louis walks the furrows of his

colourful vineyard every morning.

Hameau Casaperta, Aleria

ITINÉRAIRE Wine

CORSICA LIVANTINA Domaine Vecchio - Florence Giudicelli Girard
Together with her husband Jérôme, an oenologist, Florence created
the Domaine Vecchio during the 2000 harvest. The wines are those of
artisan winemakers. The microclimate favours morning mists and the
cool nights make the grapes fruity and acidic for perfect ripeness!

Chiatra di Verde, Chiatra

Nature lovers will be delighted to discover the Urbinu pond, the Olive oil
second largest pond in Corsica. It is an exceptional ecological
place, a paradise for birds: grey herons, kingfishers, egrets... You Domaine Marquiliani - Anne Amalric
can taste the famous oysters of the Diana pond and the mussels Anne runs the 47-hectare family farm and grows almonds, olives
of the Costa Serena ponds. Urbinu pond is bordered by the Pinia and grapes. The Aghione plateau is one of the first Corsican olive-
forest, made up of maritime pines which border the beach. In the growing areas! Her olive grove gently spreads out in the valley where
heart of the eastern plain, the tradition of vineyards and orchards outstanding soil and microclimate give her oil softness and balance.
still thrives today as well as new crops: Corsican clementine, Her oils branded Domaine Marquiliani and Moulin de Pauline 100%
pomelo, kiwi... But Corsica Livantina is also the age-old land
of the shepherds of Fium’Orbu and the wide plain of Aleria, fruit juice have naturally been awarded a gold medal.
renowned since ancient times for its abundant production. The Aghione
wealthy Aleria, capital of Corsica under the Emperor Augustus,
was a cosmopolitan trading post sought after by all the peoples Goat cheese
of the Mediterranean. History enthusiasts will love visiting the
archaeological site of Aleria: the ancient site, the museum housed Casgiu San Paolo - Dominique Chabas
in Fort Matra, the Roman baths, the pre-Roman necropolis and Dominique quickly switched from breeding ewes to goats, a
the remains of the Puzzichellu (Aghione) baths. The 13 villages demanding ancestral island tradition. «I like the contact with this
of the region are full of heritage treasures, in particular the animal,» she explains. Her herd now numbers 120 goats. Her respect
Santa Croce chapel which is adjacent to the ancient Sainte Marie and attachment to her goats gives her cheeses an outstanding quality.
parish church. Bathing lovers will appreciate diving in the blue
waters of eastern Corsica, fishing in the wild torrents, refreshing Route de Linguizzetta, Linguizzetta
themselves in the waterfalls, lakes and river natural pools.

125

ITINERARIES
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY

ITINÉRAIRE

DUI SEVI - DUI SORRU - CRUZINI-CINARCA

With an extraordinary fauna and flora, gulfs, amazing roads, the air exhales the scents of immortelle, myrtle, thyme,
sanctuarised pink granite rocks, large forests of hundred- cistus, juniper. This paradise of scents has a taste of heaven...
year-old laricio pines, wild rocky coasts witnessing a distant The countless Genoese towers and forts that protected the
volcanism, mountain lakes, waterfalls and natural pools with population from pirate invasions are still standing and, in the
crystal clear waters, the cantons of the Deux Sevi, the Deux Sorru villages, the spirit of the lords of yesteryear still hovers. The
and the Cruzzini-Cinarca offer a vibrant hymn to nature. This prehistoric and medieval sites, the Genoese bridges, the Cargèse
extraordinary area is now internationally renowned. Scandola and Vico convents and the Greek church of Cargèse are a delight
nature reserve, one of the treasures of Corsica, has been a for art and history lovers. Gourmets are not forgotten: craftsmen,
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. It is a true delight as well as cheese, honey, wine, olive oil, essential oils, cold meats
to admire the proud chestnut trees, the terraced hillsides, and chestnut flour producers are proud to share with them the
the orchards, the cultivated gardens... As you walk along the delights of their land.

Goat cheese Cold meats

U Corsu - Clément Piani Nicolas Capodimacci
Every day, Clément makes the Cinarca valley sweeter. Above the Nicolas leads his pigs with enthusiasm under the thousand-
welcoming house, nestled in the middle of 150 hectares of family year-old chestnut trees and fulfils his ambition every day:
land and pastures, you will see the sheepfold and the cheese dairy. to live off his land and the work of his hands. His Protected
Here, each of the 200 goats has a name: Agatha, Miss Marple, Daikiri Designation of Origin labelled cold meats benefit from the
or Papagallu... A true family story. You will be able to finish your visit exclusive reintroduction of the genuine Porcu nustrale, which

bringing with you a gorgeous ingot-shaped cheese! gives it its much appreciated taste.
Route de Casaglione, Sant’Andréa d’Orcino Lieu-dit A Noce, Rosazia

126

ITINÉRAIRE

SUD CORSE

The strength of the southern lands is inspiring. Don’t miss Ewe’s milk cheese
the famous lion-shaped rock at Roccapina. It has guarded this
preserved coastline for centuries, and overlooks its beautiful Cheese factory - Maxime Ansaloni
sandy beach, its Genoese tower and its hiking trails. Head for Maxime «fell into the pot» at a very young age and took over from his
Bonifacio. Perched on limestone cliffs, the houses of the Upper
Town proudly face the sea. The Genoese built this sparkling parents to keep the herd of 200 goats and sheep. His cheeses have
town, first as a fort, then as a fortified town surrounded by 2.5 won many «Prix d’Excellence», especially his tasty casgiu sartinese.
km of ramparts, which you can discover on a marked trail that From July onwards, the herd moves to the Cuscionu plateau for three
starts at the Col Saint-Roch. The charm of Porto Vecchio can be months of summer pasture and Maxime plans to do the milking at the
found in the citadel at the top of a rocky promontory made of high altitude sheepfolds. The shepherd of Muratello will continue to
pink porphyry, in the bastions and the large Genoese gate and in
its charming little streets. Up there, the view of the Gulf of Porto- amaze us.
Vecchio and the saltworks is wonderful. For sure, you will want Centre village, Muratellu
to take the boat to the Lavezzi islands or to go to the beach! It’s a
good thing since there is no shortage of them and they are among Aromatic plants
the most beautiful in Corsica. To name but a few: Palombaggia,
Santa Giulia or Cala Rossa... You can also walk in the forests of Le potager en herbes - Marc Ceselia
Bavella, Sambucu, Asinau, the thematic paths of Cuscionu, the Marc and Charlène mainly grow edible flowers, aromatic plants and
heritage paths of Quenza, the canyons and the waterfall of Piscia seasonal vegetables. Basil, bergamot, Thai thyme, Sichuan berries and
di Ghjaddu. A short distance from the captivating medieval a thousand other scents emanate from these 8,000 m² of family land.
town of Bonifacio and the attractive town of Porto-Vecchio, the A variety of endemic herbs and flowers and species from all over the
Cagna mountain watches over the vineyards and pastures of world grow in the land of Bonifacio. Today, the farm has a processing
the gentle Figari plain. And A Muredda, the bewitching scent of laboratory, where Marc offers chutneys, jellies, flavoured oils and a
Corsica’s prized immortelle, leads to the majestic pine forest of
the Ospedale. range of syrups.
Les Hauts de Sant’Amanza, Bonifacio

127

ITINERARIES The Centru di Corsica, the heart of Corsica, «Core di Corsica», is
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY dotted with valleys, mountains, majestic forests, lakes and rivers
that give you the feeling of touching the Corsican soul. Central
ITINÉRAIRE Corsica owes much of its cultural, landscape and architectural
identity to its ancestral traditions. It is a delight to follow the
CENTRU DI CORSICA transhumance paths that follow the valleys, pass the crests
and are dotted with amazing sheepfolds. From the deep forest
of Vizzavona to the statue of Christ Roi taking center stage on
the Verghju pass, nature lovers will be fulfilled. From south
to north, The Venacais stretches from the majestic Vizzavona
forest to the beautiful Verghellu Valley. This region composed
of nine villages lies in the hollows of forests of laricci pines
and beeches, meadows and terraces, protected by an imposing
mountainous cirque made up of the Monte d’Oru and Cardu
massifs. Hiking aficionados can climb the peaks of the Cintu and
Rotondu massifs, enjoy the crystal clear waters of the Tavignanu
and Restonica rivers... The Centre Corse refers to the history of
past centuries. The tradition of beautiful and mysterious sacred
or profane polyphonic songs, the tales and legends inspired by
beliefs and magic, the traditions and ways of life of the inland
villages are preserved here. In the centre of the island, Corte
was the capital of independent Corsica in the mid-18th century.
Built around its Citadel, the majestic Corte dominates the steep
valleys of the Restonica and Tavignanu rivers from its «Eagle’s
Nest». An unforgettable landscape!

Market gardening Cheeses

E Lenze Niulinche - Jean-Pierre Nicolai Sheepfold - Joseph-Antoine Orsatelli
Jean-Pierre and his wife have left the computer business to focus In the Orsatelli family, the pastoral tradition and know-how have
on values that are more important to them. The couple chose to been handed down from generation to generation. Joseph-Antoine
return to their family home in Lozzi to begin their new life and set
up a completely organic market garden. The quality of the fruit and always knew he would be a shepherd. Driven by his quest for
vegetables grown by Jean-Pierre, the jams and condiments prepared product excellence and his respect for the land, he makes tasty ewe’s

by Marie-Claude, have naturally seduced gourmet people. milk cheeses. His milk-fed lambs are a tribute to the best Corsican
A Calunica, Lozzi gastronomy.

Veal Lieu-ditLecca Pegura,Santa Lucia diMercurio

E Tramizolle - Jean-Darius Luciani Chestnut flour
The outstanding reputation of Corsican veal is well established and
Jean-Darius is one of the producers who guarantee its quality and Sativa - Pasquin Flori et Jean-Yves Acquaviva
its exceptional taste. His professional career has always been closely It was on the university benches that the destiny of the two men was
linked to the family tradition, whose pastoral vocation seems to go linked. Pasquin had some land and a few chestnut trees in the village
back to the dawn of time. His father, his grandfather, his ancestors
and they started to produce a few kilos of flour for fun. Then, the
were breeders of Niolu and his two sons will take over after him. desire to take things further pushed them to build an exemplary farm
That’s it!
at the foot of the highest peak in Corsica.
Casamaccioli Lozzi

Wine

Domaine Vico - Jean-Marc et Emmanuel Venturi
Clos Venturi is the only vineyard in the Centre Corse region, and also
the one with the highest altitude - between 300 and 400 metres. With

such a high position, the resulting flavours offer a unique taste.
Route De Calvi - Ponte-Leccia, Morosaglia

128

ITINÉRAIRE

SARTINESI - VALINCU - TARAVU

This territory, made up of three valleys - the Sartenais, the Valinco Honey
and the Taravo - is the birthplace of Corsican history, which combines
the seaside with the inland, and offers visitors a journey to the heart Ferme Bocca - Maria Ghjuvanna Colombani
of an agricultural, gourmet, cultural and heritage-rich land. It gathers Maria produces several types of PDO quality honeys. After
18 towns and villages which have preserved their historical centre meeting a saffron producer from Taravu (Sylvain Martinez-
and their characteristic architecture in their own way and which Ciccolini), she set up her beehives in Cozzano and the interaction
are all worth visiting: Propriano, Campomoro, Olmeto, Argiusta- between honey and saffron came naturally. She develops a
Moriccio, the beautiful Sartène which sits in an amphitheatre above range of original products: honey vinegars, honey jams, muesli,
the Valinco gulf. According to Prosper Mérimée, this is the «most
Corsican of Corsican towns» and it offers an outstanding panorama biscuits...
as far as the peaks of Bavella. This territory gathers two thirds of Cozzano
the island’s megaliths. The Tavaro valley is the oldest populated in
Corsica. Gourmets will be able to enjoy typical products of the island Cold meats
of beauty. Vines and olive trees are cultivated here, and pastoral
activity is important. The mountains, full of oak and chestnut trees, Gaspard et Dominique Cesari
are devoted to pig breeding. Cold meats, cheese, wine, olive oil, Dominique runs the business, which he is gradually developing and
honey... water lovers are also spoiled. Indeed, the Sartenais Valinco modernising, and his brother is in charge of marketing on the Ajaccio
Taravo is also represented by kilometres of beach, crystal clear market. Sausages, coppa, lonzu, Prisutu, valetta, potted head cheese,
waters, rivers and green scrubland. The perfect marriage between figatelli and country terrine, his products respect a traditional and
plain and mountain!
family production which is reassuring!
Olive oil Cozzano

Le Moulin de Sardelle - Etienne et Julie Andreani Chestnuts
Etienne Andreani revived a centuries-old olive grove, pruned the
trees, planted new olive trees, and set up a modern and efficient A casa di a Castagna - Véronique Leoni
mill. The Moulin de Sardelle was born from this conscientious and While discussing with two other chestnut growers, Véronique
persistent work and the reputation of their sweet and fruity olive oil
decided to make Corsican marrons glacés and to create the
quickly crossed the borders of Taravo-Valinco. Dolci Corsi brand. Two decades later, the three chestnut
Sollacaro
growers’ bet has paid off, as the reputation of the traditionally
made marrons glacés seems to be well established. The Dolci

Corsi range offers chestnut jam, brandy flavoured candied
chestnuts and homemade clementines, citron or figs jams.

Zevaco

129

ITINERARIES
AUTHENTIC SENSES WAY

ITINÉRAIRE

GRAVONA - PRUNELLI - PAESI D’AIACCIU

This region with a rich historical past invites you to discover the return from Egypt to find refuge before going into exile in 1793.
villages of the Prunelli valley, to walk along the old paths of the While in Bastelica and Eccica-Suarella, the shadow of Sampiero
Haute-Gravona valley, to cross the Vizzavona pass (1,167 metres) Corso hovers, whose story is said to have inspired Shakespeare
which marks the natural boundary between the department of to write Othello. The Gulf of Ajaccio offers visitors beautiful
southern Corsica and Upper Corsica. In the vicinity of the Tavaco white sandy beaches and pleasant seaside resorts like Porticcio.
village, you can bathe in the cool waters of the Gravona. This is Far from being a barrier, the sea-mountain duality has prompted
particularly pleasant in summer. The forest of Vizzavona is one of this region to exchange, swap, trade, federate and work to save
the most beautiful in Corsica, consisting mainly of Lariccio pines and pass on ancestral know-how. The region is also a beautiful
and beech trees. Going north along the coast, you will reach the land of welcome for the «Apanera», the small black bee specific to
mythical Calanques de Piana and the Scandola nature reserve. The Corsica, for numerous aromatic and medicinal plants and for fruit
memory of Bonaparte marks the paths of Ajaccio where he spent trees. In fact, partnerships have been created to preserve the rich
his childhood. All around its harbour and its citadel, the old town natural heritage of ancient fruit trees, in order to develop orchards
of Ajaccio offers pretty narrow streets with high and colourful with the smells and flavours of yesteryear. These flavours are also
houses. The house where Napoleon Bonaparte was born is in the found in the «Bastelicaccia», the well-known soft cheese with a
rue Saint-Charles. It was in Bocognano that he stopped on his bloomy rind that so deliciously stimulates the taste buds!

Fruit and vegetables Wine

L’Ortu di San Ghjuvà - Jean-Michel Fortune Clos Ornasca - Laetitia et Jean Antoine Tola et Manenti
Jean-Michel is a market gardener and offers tasty fruits and Laetitia and her partner Jean-Antoine Manenti manage their
vegetables from organic farming. As a nurseryman, his garden
centre offers his family’s production for sale directly, without traditional quality vineyard on almost 10 hectares and a
treatment or addition of pesticides for Mediterranean gardens, modern and efficient cellar. Clos Ornasca is part of the Ajaccio
PDO. The shallow sandy-gravel land of this estate, dotted with
flowering plants and «organic» market garden plants.
Plaine de Saint Jean de Pisciatellu, Eccica Suarella rocks, its poor, acidic and filtering soil where the vine must
seek its nutrients by the strength of its roots, result in a wine of

great quality.
Eccica Suarella

130

Veal

U Marsulinu - Laetitia Simeoni et Jean-Baptiste Geronimi
The fourth generation of farming families, Laëtitia Simeoni and Jean-

Baptiste Geronimi are keen to make the most of their land, which
they cherish so much. As for Jean-Baptiste, he breeds 300 ewes and
produces tome, casgiu vechju and brocciu. Meanwhile, Laëtitia breeds
43 cows, all selected from the most beautiful breeds of cattle, for an
unbeatable meat quality. They also work together and produce the «e

murze» endemic immortelle and transform it into essential oils.

Marsulinu, Calenzana

Honey

ITINÉRAIRE Les chasseurs de miel
Corinne Dumas and Christian Aurenty decided one day to leave
BALAGNA everything behind and start afresh. As soon as their children stood on
their own feet, they chose beekeeping to get closer to nature. Corinne
In Balagne, Corsican nature displays all the colours of the rainbow. If and Christian have transformed the old house of an ancestor in the
you like the sea, you will be delighted to swim in the clear turquoise heart of Lumio into a charming honey house where you will find their
waters of the beaches. From Calvi to Ile Rousse, long sandy beaches different honeys, Corinne’s beeswax candles and natural cosmetics,
alternate with wild coves, all the way to the quiet Gulf of Galeria. You and... delicious honey-based pastries that Christian bakes with
will also enjoy diving in the deep blue waters of the Agriate Marine delight. Not being in an absolute search of profitability, they live at the
Park. If you prefer river bathing, go for the freshness of the green and rhythm of their bees and generously share with their customers what
pure waters of the Figarella and Tartagine rivers. Another outstanding
site in the region is the Cinque Arcate bridge, which opens the doors they accept to give over the seasons.
to the Fango valley and invites you to immerse yourself in the heart 18 Route de l’église, Lumio
of this Corsican nature protected by UNESCO and listed as Natura
2000. On one side, the mountains and the forest, on the other, you Cheeses
can already guess the sea. Fango is a stream with crystal clear waters.
If you look closely, you will even see Corsican «macrostigma» trout François Fondacci
swimming in it. You can also enjoy kayaking with your family and The Fondacci family comes from Santa Reparata and has always
admire the forty or so species of birds and water turtles that live in raised hundreds of ewes and produced farmhouse cheese on the
the marshes, which are full of elm and alder trees, ferns and white Balagne plains! François, Josée and Antoine’s son, is keeping this
water lilies. If you look carefully, you will see the mouflon, the symbol family tradition alive. In 2008, the young man took over the farm,
of mountainous Corsica, as well as the golden eagle which inhabits which spreads over four communes - Santa Reparata of course,
the steep relief of the Gorges de l’Asco. The wild scrubland and forests Monticello, Île Rousse and Speloncato. His mother, Josée, is in charge
are part of the natural treasures of the Balagne. Rockroses, holm of making the cheese with him. She taught him everything, because
oaks, arbutus trees, junipers, myrtle, golden in the sun, olive trees, traditionally, in Corsica, the woman is the one who was in charge of
vineyards (cultivated since Antiquity), almond and peach orchards,
and immortelle plantations make up a cameo of greens that are both making the cheese.
soft and deep that will blow you away. Higher, the dark green of the Ld Chialza, Monticello
oaks and laricio pines surround you with their freshness in the forests
of the Fango, Bonifato and Tartagine. To this colour palette can be Olive oil
added the blue of the sky and the sea as well as the green of the rivers
and trees, without forgetting the deep ochre and the red of the rocks Dominique Raineri
of southern Balagne, that are real natural sculptures. The charm of Dominique Raineri has more than one string to his bow: he is a
the perched villages overlooking the sparkling sea is unquestionable. bricklayer, a shopkeeper and an olive grower. He has been devoting
It is a pleasure to wander through the narrow streets, to discover the most of his time to this last activity since 2003. As a child, he imagined
typical houses, some of which dating back to the Middle Ages, and building his house in the middle of this property and bringing the
to visit the many Romanesque and Baroque churches and chapels. olive and fruit trees back to life. Fulfilled mission! It all started with
Balagne, this bright and refreshing «island within the island», which the complete renovation of the family olive grove, 35 trees that
has been thriving since the dawn of time, is well worth a visit! belonged to his great grandmother. But the work to rehabilitate these
3 hectares was huge, as they had been left fallow for too long. It was
necessary to create accesses, clear the land, and then plant new young
olive trees that are now 5 years old. He did all this on his own! The
house has been well settled for 10 years, to welcome visitors eager

for calm and serenity.
Zilia

For more information, please visit www.gustidicorsica.com 131

ITINERARIES

ITINÉRAIRE

AJACCIO

By Aurélie Hallereau and Nicole Maïon

Benvenuti in Aiacciu! The Corsican setting of Ajaccio is not only of the young city of Ajaccio, which became the first city in southern
the county town of Corsica and a port city on the west coast Corsica. Ajaccio is the largest city in Corsica, and is today endowed
of the island, set in the Mediterranean blue. The birthplace of with a rich cultural and natural heritage. Above all, the city has
Napoleon Bonaparte offers a cultural and natural heritage, with illustrated throughout its history its ability to resist the enemy. It
many itineraries, rich in artistic, ecological and gastronomic is not surprising that Bonaparte, who was born on 15 August 1769
wonders. An experience to be lived in slow time mode to better in the old quarter, rue Saint Charles, made his debut here before
enjoy the pleasures of this jewel of the island of beauty! becoming Emperor of France and then King of Italy. The inhabitants
of Ajaccio have always fought against the invaders. Ajaccio was in
THE SETTING OF THE GULF OF AJACCIO fact the first French city to be freed from the occupation in 1943 and
Situated on the west coast of southern Corsica and overlooked by the stood out for the constant sheltering of Jews by the Corsicans.
mountains on one side and the Gulf of Ajaccio with its beaches on the
other, Ajaccio offers landscapes that vary at all hours according to IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE EMPEROR
the course of the sun. Its sunny climate promotes a luxuriant nature To take up the course of Ajaccio’s history, head for the old town
in the very heart of the city with intense perfumes, from one street to to discover the colourful facades of the Genoese houses, then
the other. On every walk, colour is omnipresent until you discover in the lively Tino Rossi port, before taking a stroll through the
the distance, on the route des Sanguinaires running along the beach, narrow streets to reach Napoleon’s birthplace, which has now
the small archipelago of the Sanguinaires islands with the red granite been transformed into a museum. The Napoleonic heritage is
that inspired its name. omnipresent in Ajaccio, you can also discover the Palais Fesch-
Musée des Beaux Arts which, in addition to exhibiting a large
A JEWEL OF LIGHT SINCE 530 YEARS number of Italian paintings from Botticelli to Veronese via
The imperial city brightly celebrates its 530 years of history since Titian, is full of paintings and objects to the glory of Napoleon.
the creation of a fortress in 1492 by the Genoese. This castle, erected Let’s not forget the Imperial Chapel and the numerous statues
on the Punta della Leccia, was the starting point for the development honouring the most famous child of the Ajaccio region. Similarly,

132

© OT Ajaccio

© OT Ajaccio

the emperor’s ghost is lurking in Ajaccio cathedral, where a people in music around traditional Corsican dishes, prepared
Napoleon Bonaparte was baptised. Another emblematic place like grandmothers in the village, with local products. Another
in Ajaccio is the Grand Café Napoléon at 10 Cours Napoléon. option is the Alba brasserie, which honours local and seasonal
Created in 1930, it awaits you for a cup of tea around delicious products, choosing all its products daily from the market, the
pastries, an aperitif or a chic gourmet dinner accompanied by a fish market and local producers. After visiting the Palais Fesch,
hundred or so references of wines that will delight wine lovers. don’t hesitate to stroll down the eponymous street. Now a
Both children and adults will also be able to immerse themselves pedestrian street, rue Fesch was originally the road that led to
in Napoleonic history in a more playful way at the Naporama, the city gates, known as «u Borgu», the faubourg. Rue Fesch has
which hosts reconstructions of the great battles with customised managed to preserve its charm and authenticity, not to mention
Playmobil. This is a great way to remember your history lessons the beautiful shops. Drop in at the Cave du Cardinal, cours
while having fun. Napoléon. Elodie and Julien Innocenzi will share with you their
passion for wine and Corsican gastronomy. You can also stop
GOURMET ADDRESSES at the Passe temps, a beautiful family-run place which is at the
As you wander through the streets of Ajaccio, stop off at a few same time a café, a restaurant and an antique shop! Ajaccio is
gourmet places to enjoy a bit of the local tradition. For lunch, full of good addresses for gourmets. The products selected from
head for the Mani restaurant, run by Romuald Royer, a Michelin among the best Corsican craftsmen in the A Casetta delicatessen
star chef and former head of the Lido restaurant in Propriano. are also proof of this.
You can sit down at large rustic tables to share good food with
local products. Lovers of fish shall not miss the delicious octopus MANY SPECIALITIES
dish! Another mythical address in the old town is the restaurant To get closer to the local producers, head for Place Campinchi
20123. This address will immerse you in Corsican culture within where the central market of Ajaccio takes place. It has a
a reconstruction of the decor and the typical atmosphere of the gourmet market where you can discover a historic fish shop
villages of the past. You will discover the identity and culture of whose stalls are supplied by local fishermen. The market is also

133

ITINERARIES

an opportunity for tasting on the spot. You can taste the best that will really blow you away. The great site of La Parata and
Finucchietti of Ajaccio and delicious Bruccio doughnuts. From the Sanguinaires islands represent an exceptional natural site
cold meats to canistrelli, through Corsican cheeses and seasonal classified Natura 2000 and Grand Site de France. You can fully
fruit and vegetables, local producers are waiting for you to experience this beautiful escape in the middle of nature on foot
present their products. We also advise you to visit a noteworthy or by bike. Take the time to observe the rocky massifs, breathe in
wine cellar, the Chemin des vignobles, run by an enthusiast, the scents of the vegetation, observe the sea heather, the witch’s
Nicolas Stromboni, elected best wine merchant in France in claw or the sea fennel. The only thing you will have to do is to
2011. Once you have been energised by the tasting of Corsican dream with the birds swirling around the Gulf of Ajaccio in front
delicacies, head off to the citadel, built on a strategic site to of this sea with its azure reflections for a real immersion in the
protect the town effectively. Ajaccio’s citadel has just reopened Tropics... but in Corsica! The hike in the isolated archipelago of
to the public and is waiting for you! After visiting this timeless the Sanguinaires is done on a picturesque and marked out path
place full of history, we advise you to stop off at one of the oldest which will allow you to discover an austere Genoese tower and a
restaurants in the city, La Calata. Entirely renovated, it is a very lighthouse. On the way back to Ajaccio, treat yourself to a stopover
popular place among Ajaccians for an aperitif with a view of the in a gourmet restaurant. The Dolce Vita, also a prestige hotel, is
fishing port. run by Jean-Jacques Lovichi. It was one of the first restaurants
to be awarded a star in Corsica. It offers sophisticated Corsican
AJACCIO’S AZURE REFLECTIONS dishes to be enjoyed facing the Sanguinaires Islands. To go
The imperial city also offers a fine sandy beach which extends further in the discovery of protected marine panoramas, book an
along the route des Sanguinaires. This is an opportunity to early morning excursion to the port of Tino Rossi to discover, on
taste the dishes of Ajaccio’s beautiful straw huts, the traditional a day trip, the caves and red granite coves in the Scandola nature
meeting points of the Ajaccians. At the Neptune, in a breathtaking reserve which can only be visited by boat. With a bit of luck,
setting, you can taste very good grilled fish. Very close to the sea, you may see the Osprey, emblematic of Scandola, or a peregrine
the Goéland By Dolce Vita offers refined cuisine. Clinging to the falcon. Back at the port, treat yourself to some home-made
rocks, the Scudo straw hut is an emblematic place where the chef sweets at the Pasteria Galeani bakery, one of the oldest shops
invites you to taste his rib steak on the plancha or his skewer in Ajaccio, handed down from generation to generation. And if
of scallops. You can then head off again to discover the coves your trip to the seabed has given you a craving for fresh fish,

134

© OT Ajaccio

come aboard the Poséidon, a restaurant boat located in the old are cultivated in the traditional way: tilling, ploughing back and
port. There you can taste shellfish and fish from the fishermen digging are done by hand. In addition to the AOP Ajaccio wines,
of Ajaccio, all from sustainable and local fishing. A guilt-free way this family vineyard produces natural sweet wines, a blanc de
to enjoy a good meal in an original and warm atmosphere on the blancs according to the Champagne method and brandies. If you
boat! Finally, to end this beautiful day, go to the rooftop of the want to know all the secrets of essential oils, the Corsica PAM
Fesch Hotel and Spa. Here, you can sip cocktails on the rooftops distillery, located in the Ocana village, opens its doors to the
of Ajaccio, facing a panoramic view of the gulf... A truly magical public. A great opportunity to be immersed in the heart of the
break! Ajaccio offers routes that are both gourmet and cultural, Corsican scrubland. In the same village, Denis and Nancy Casalta
where the beauty of the architecture is permanent while the will share their passion for PDO honey. For those who are curious,
palm trees offer you a little freshness. The Office Intercommunal an educational tour invites you to discover the secrets of the bee
du Tourisme du Pays d’Ajaccio (Ajaccio intercommunal Tourist and the queen during which you will be able to see them very
Office) has made sure to facilitate the visits and curiosity of closely thanks to a glass hive. A little further on the road to Tolla,
its visitors. For the past two years, the Tourist Office has been go and meet the goat farmer Lionel Pinzutti. He will make you
selling a city pass for 24, 48 or 72 hours, in order to enjoy the taste, among other things, his delicious Bastelicaccia. Enough to
main attractions mentioned above in complete freedom, with leave with genuine and unforgettable souvenirs!
free admission and discounts offered by its partners.

MEN AND WOMEN OF EXCEPTION Ajaccio Intercommunal Tourist Office
Now that the city of Ajaccio no longer holds any secrets for 3 boulevard du Roi Jérôme, 20000 Ajaccio
you, set off into «its country» to meet winegrowers, craftsmen, Phone: +33 (0)4 95 51 53 03 - www.ajaccio-tourisme.com
producers... Men and women of exception, each one more
enthralling than the others. Nestled on the slopes of Mezzavia, the
Comte Peraldi vineyard has been producing quality wines since
the 16th century and is part of the Ajaccio PDO. A few kilometres
from the Gulf of Ajaccio, the Clos Capitoro is one of the jewels
of the island’s wine-growing industry. The 50 hectares of vines

135

ITINERARIES

ITINÉRAIRE

BASTIA

By Aurélie Hallereau and Luc Saint-Elie - Photos : JC Marsily

Located between the sea and the mountains, in the north- A GREAT CLIMATE
east of the island of Beauty, on the slopes of the «Serra di Thanks to its Mediterranean climate and its magnificent beaches, the
Pignu» which rises to an altitude of almost 1,000 metres, destination is naturally an ideal place for idleness, leisure and outdoor
Bastia has a unique and original character. We suggest that activities. Whether they are sandy or pebble beaches, Bastia’s beaches
you take a stroll through the beautiful capital of Genoese are easily accessible and are a real little paradise. You can choose and
Corsica, from the old town to the Citadel, via the Romieu switch between the Miomo and Grigione coves, two beautiful pebble
Garden and its Old Port... And much more. beaches on Cap Corse; the Marana coves, vast stretches of sand lined
with pine trees located on the lagoon to the south of Bastia; and the
A CITY OF ART AND HISTORY Arinella, the city’s largest beach. Some of them are equipped with
Situated on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea, Bastia is leisure centres offering a wide range of water sports: sailing, diving,
classified as a «city of art and history». City of history, because water skiing, jet-skiing, sea kayaking, paddle... As for the mountains,
the land of Bastia has been occupied since Antiquity. The city in just ten minutes, you will discover small walking and hiking trails.
appears to be enigmatic, timeless and creative. As you explore its From family walks to more sporting routes, everyone will choose
narrow streets winding along the foot of colourful facades and according to the level of difficulty and their desires. This duality of
interspersed with charming squares, you will quickly realise just sea and mountain makes Bastia an ideal base for lovers of outdoor
how rich the city’s historical architecture is, linked to its Genoese activities.
past. Bastia also has a rich baroque religious heritage, made up
of churches, oratories and chapels with splendid decorations. THE STRONGHOLD OF CORSICAN GASTRONOMY
The city is now a candidate for the «label de capitale européenne Bastia’s gastronomy, between the sea and the mountains, is a
de la Culture 2028» (2028 European Capital of Culture label). reflection of the region. On the sea side, this coastal town offers a

136

Place du donjon - Citadelle

Romieu Garden Governors’ Palace and open-air theater

multitude of specialities straight from the fishermen’s nets. Among the family. An entire district of the city bears his name in homage:
the classics, sardines with brocciu (a typical Corsican cheese), «San Ghijsé». Another sweetness are the Canistrelli. They were
baccalà (cod) or denti (a fish from the Mediterranean Sea) without originally the traditional dry shepherd’s biscuit. You can find them
forgetting anchovies à la bastiaise which can be eaten as a starter at Chez Mireille, a traditional pastry shop located in an alleyway
leading to the Old Port, or at La Biscutteria, a biscuit factory that
with a salad or simply on a slice of toasted bread as an aperitif. You can is easy to find as you will be attracted by the scent of the biscuits
from the street! Bastia is full of charming little shops where you can
try them at the Epica, a traditional family restaurant with a superb find all the local specialities, such as the Cap Corse Mattei concept
view of the Old Port. Bastia is also a great place to try the delights store on place Saint-Nicolas. The shop, which has been completely
of the famous Corsican cured meats. All these specialities can be renovated and listed as a historical monument, dates back to 1872.
On the market square, located halfway between the Old Port and
accompanied by a local wine. Bastia is located at the crossroads of the place Saint Nicolas, every weekend, local producers come to
three Corsican wine PDOs: Coteaux du Cap Corse PDO, Muscat-du- present their products in a typically Mediterranean atmosphere.
Cap-Corse PDO and Patrimonio PDO. To discover the vineyards, a
wine route, starting north of Bastia in the direction of Cap Corse, A THOUSAND AND ONE WAYS TO VISIT BASTIA
As you can guess, living at the pace of Bastia means taking the time
stretches from Luri to Macinaggio over 53 kilometres. To discover to discover the landscapes, the history, the gastronomy... Taking the
time to discover everything that makes it so beautiful. To immerse
Corsica’s gastronomy, there is plenty of addresses, either trendy, yourself further in the heart of the Corsican soul and get to know
Bastia through its traditions, the Tourist Office recommends «les
classy, traditional or family-run... Many restaurants have made
a name for themselves! Don’t forget to try the Bastian pastries,
which will delight your taste buds, especially the panzarotti (sweet
doughnuts made of chickpea or rice flour). Originally, this pastry is
linked to Saint-Jospeh, an important religious festival held on 19th

March. The Bastians celebrate their patron saint, the protector of

137

ITINÉRAIRES

Légendines». Every Tuesday, starting from the place Saint-Nicolas, there and in October, it hosts the Salon du Chocolat. Every Sunday,
you can discover the town through its legends, its unusual or second-hand goods enthusiasts come to browse among the diverse
strange events... On foot and accompanied by a tourist guide, you stalls of the flea market exhibitors. Do you feel like going for a walk
will cross the jewels of the town’s heritage. Strange or historical despite the heat? After the unavoidable place Saint-Nicolas, lined
facts, unusual anecdotes, traditions and customs are all part of
the tour. The visit continues with a private concert of Corsican with the Tyrrhenian Sea, go to rue Napoléon, inaugurated in 2013.
polyphonic songs in an oratory of the city and ends with a delicious
tasting of local products. The mix of culture, history, emotion, music This beautiful pedestrian street covered with stone paving will lead
and traditional products, allows you to capture the spirit of the you to two of Bastia’s must-see districts: the Old Port and the place
town (and more widely of Corsica) in an original and enjoyable way. du Marché. The place du Marché has a large number of restaurants,
The ideal starting point for any visit to Bastia is the very impressive
place Saint-Nicolas. It is one of the largest squares in Europe (with a brasseries and cafés. Markets are held here on Saturday and Sunday
surface of 22,100 m², almost 300 metres long and 80 metres wide). A mornings. Nestled in a small cove, the Old Port is both a life-size
central point of life in Bastia and a meeting place for all generations, postcard and a real place to live. It is one of the liveliest areas of the
it is a place where people meet for lunch on the terrace, an aperitif city, with restaurants and brasseries. Walkers, fishermen and cafe
with friends, a moment of relaxation with the family... With its three owners keep it alive from morning to night! If you are in the mood
emblematic monuments, the war memorial, the bandstand and the
statue of Napoleon in the toga of a Roman emperor, it is a kind of for freshness, stop off at one of Bastia’s ice-cream producers and let
small open-air museum. In summer, numerous musical events take yourself be tempted by the local flavours, bruccio ice-cream, citron
place; in winter, a Ferris wheel and a Christmas market are set up ice-cream, chestnut ice-cream... For sure, you will love it! From the
Old Port, you can then go to the Citadel. There are two options for
this: a quiet option, by taking the Mantinum, a recently inaugurated
lift that connects the green theatre to the southern quay of the Old
Port. The word Mantinum comes from the name given by the Romans

138

The Aldilonda Promenade

to the city of Bastia. The second option is to go up to the Citadel via AN ANCESTRAL TRADITION
Another way of exploring the city is through music and the discovery
the stairs of the Romieu Garden or the rue du Colle. Built on a rocky
of Corsican songs, which are an integral part of the island’s soul.
promontory, the Citadel offers a real breathtaking view. This is the Every Friday, the Tourist Office offers a concert of polyphonic songs
in the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church. Located between the Place du
highlight of the visit to the town and the atmosphere you will feel Marché and the Old Port, this religious building dating from 1630
reveals an imposing baroque façade. With its two bell towers, this
is the one of a small village with narrow strets. You can visit the magnificent church seems to have a protective eye on the old town.
Place du Donjon and the Palais des Gouverneurs, which houses the
Bastia History Museum, whose hanging gardens offer an incredible THE BALCONY VILLAGES
Leaning against the hillside, the balcony villages of the Bastia
view stretching as far as the islands of the Tuscan archipelago. hinterland are the reflection of a Corsica anchored in its traditions
Every year in June, the Palais des Gouverneurs is transformed into a and the witnesses of the rural life of the past. From Furiani to Santa
temple of regional creation by hosting Creazione, the Mediterranean Maria di Lota, via Ville di Pietrabugno and San Martino di Lota,
Fashion and Design Festival. In the heart of the Citadel, you can continue your visit of the region by discovering the balcony villages
also visit the baroque Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, which houses an
extraordinary silver statue of the Virgin Mary. To reach the Old Port, located at the entrance of Bastia. To immerse yourself in the depths
take the stairs near the old gunpowder magazine. They will lead you of the Corsican identity, the Tourist Office is offering, from July
onwards, the «Canti in Paese», village visits led by a tourist guide,
to the Aldilonda, a real footbridge over the sea. This monumental followed by polyphonic singing. This is an opportunity to realise just

architectural work, leaning against the ramparts of the Citadel, is how much authenticity has been able to withstand the test of time.
a real link between a past marked by the Genoese influence and a
resolutely modern city. A little further on, the Aldilonda is extended

by the Spassimare, a soft path linking the old town to the beaches of

Ficaghjola and Arinella.

139

ITINÉRAIRES

Miomo’s marina and it’s Genoese tower

© Balloid © Balloid

Sainte Lucie Church - Ville di Pietrabugno Paoline Tower of Furiani

IN GIRU, ARTISTIC ITINERARY
To discover the territory in a different way, the Tourist Office

proposes this year an artistic itinerary created by Julien de

Casabianca, an internationally renowned street artist from Bastia.
From July to October, discover the giant works of art that line this
unique artistic route in Corsica. Five towns, five works, a universal

theme to be discovered without further delay...

Bastia Intercommunal © Balloid

Tourist Office Flenu Beach, Pietranera
Place Saint-Nicolas

20200 Bastia
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 54 20 40

www.bastia-tourisme.corsica

140



ITINERARIES

ITINÉRAIRE © Marie-Jo Culioli Vichera

BONIFACIO

By Aurélie Hallereau and Luc Saint-Elie

At the very end of Corsica, to which it is linked by a thin line A MAGICAL AND TIMELESS PLACE
of land, Bonifacio unfolds from the cliff, where its citadel is At the top of the promontory, overlooking the sea, the citadel of
located, to the sea, where its port extends. This high limestone
plateau, looking like the prow of a ship, proudly overlooks the Bonifacio covers the entire plateau of the promontory that ends the
sea. Welcome to Bonifacio. peninsula. As you walk around, you can see the narrow houses, tightly

A HIGHLY COVERED CITY clustered together, clinging to numerous layers of white limestone
Bonifacio is a city with an eventful past that is believed to have been
founded in 830 by Boniface II, Count of Lucca and Marquis of Tuscany, and overlooking a dizzying peak with the sea below. This landscape
who gave it his name. Because it overlooks the sea, the town is is what makes Bonifacio a magical and timeless place. After having
perfectly located to control the passages between northern Sardinia
and southern Corsica. Highly coveted, Boniface decided to make it taken your time to stroll and wander through the narrow streets of
a fortified place. As an important trading port and maritime route the citadel, the first great experience from this thousand year old
between Italy and Spain, Bonifacio has been inhabited by various fortress is without doubt the King of Aragon’s Stairway. This groove
peoples: Pisans, Genoese, Aragonese, French, Ottomans... It is only with of 189 steps, each one as irregular as the other, is classified as a
the signing of the Treaty of Versailles in 1768 that the town’s history
is definitively linked to Corsica. This particular history and the various historical monument and picturesque site of Corsica. The legend says
monastic orders that have succeeded one another in Bonifacio have
left a very rich heritage in terms of both tradition and architecture. that it was dug by human hands in one night by the troops of the King
This unique heritage has earned the town the title of Town of Art and of Aragon in 1420. The reality is in fact a little less heroic since this
History. Bonifacio is also part of the «Grand Site» operation, with the
aim of being awarded the «Grand Site de France» label in a few years’ dizzying descent towards the sea has been dug into the limestone
time... Visiting Bonifacio is like walking through an endless variety of cliff to access a fresh water well, called the Saint-Barthélemy well. On
treasures.
the way down, you will enjoy a 180° view of the sea, Sardinia and the
cliffs. At the bottom, you will walk along the turquoise blue water in a
path dug into the cliff. Another emblematic place is the Fortress of the
Standard, the centrepiece of the city’s fortifications. Built in the 13th

century and then rebuilt several times, it is somewhat the symbol of
Bonifacio. This imposing fortress, considered the highest in France,

overlooks the entrance to the port. In the past, it was used to protect

the access to the Genoa Gate, which was initially the only entrance

142

to the town. A visit to the Fortress of the Standard gives you access A NATURE RESERVE TO PRESERVE
to the Roman Garden of the Remains and the underground rooms. This brings us to the grain of sand (locally called U Diu Grossu,
Amidst various species of Mediterranean flora, the Garden of the the Big Finger or the Thumb). This huge and very popular rock,
Remains presents the ruins of the ancient 13th century fortifications. set in the sea, is said to have broken away from the cliff several
Twenty minutes of wandering to admire the stunning views of the
centuries ago. It is a paradise for seabirds, such as the European
port and the outstanding panoramas of the cliffs and Sardinia. The
shag, the cory’s shearwater and the gull, and its upper part is
views are breathtaking. In the underground rooms, a memorial
covered with sparse evergreen vegetation. It can be seen from
recounts some of the most important scenes in the life of the city,
such as its thousand years of fortifications. Within the fortified walls the cliff tops of the upper town, from the Pertusatu and Campu
of Bonifacio, the imposing Genoa Gate and its drawbridge dating Rumanilu hiking trails or on sea walks. For this, you can contact
the Tourist Office.
from the 16th century are also worth seeing. Until the 19th century,
the gate was the only access to the Upper town. Another historical GOOD RESTAURANT ADDRESSES...
fact is the Torrione De Bonifacio, also called the Old Tower. Built in Gastronomy is everywhere in Bonifacio, in many different forms.
1484 and successively fortified by the armies, this watchtower was
erected on the ancient Casteletto, which itself was most probably In the classic form of gastronomic restaurants (some have their
constructed on the first fortification built in the 9th century by own vegetable garden), we can name Chez Marco, a paradise for
Boniface. This landmark being too visible for enemy armies, the lobster and fish lovers. Located on the beach of La Tonnara, in
an authentic and warm setting with an extraordinary view of the
Torrione was destroyed in 1901 and rebuilt in the 1980s. The Saint sea, the restaurant offers a real taste experience, particularly
with its unmissable royal lobster of Bonifacio, the speciality of
Roch chapel was built at the foot of the ramparts of Bonifacio on
the spot where the last victim of the plague epidemic of 1528 died the restaurant. Every day, the chef also cooks local fish delivered
- epidemic that decimated three quarters of Bonifacio inhabitants.
by the fishermen from the restaurant’s pontoon! If you go
The chapel overlooks the sea and offers an incredible view of the through the old town where the Tourist Office is located, you
citadel, the port, Sant’Antoniu beach and Sardinia, one of the most can eat at the Aria Nova, a very nice restaurant mentioned in
breathtaking panoramas in Corsica. many guides. The chef is a former chef of Fouquet’s. For cooking

143

ITINERARIES

© Marie-Jo Culioli Vichera

© Giovanni Santilaurini © Giovanni Santilaurini

enthusiasts, at the magnificent 4-star hotel A Cheda, chef Lionel can be identified by the «Nustrale» logo. Another initiative from
Lebrun has set up kitchen immersions. From 7.30 pm to 9 pm, you the Tourist Office is the «Rendez-vous gourmands», which offer
will experience the restaurant’s backstage and take part in the
service kick-off, before swapping your chef ’s hat for a napkin and you a tasting tour every Thursday evening to introduce your taste

savouring the tasting menu according to the chef ’s inspiration or buds to local flavours. This event, held in various grocery shops
the Bonifacian menu made from 100% local products. We also
recommend Les Terrasses du Roy d’Aragon with its spectacular in the city, is a unique opportunity to meet producers who are
cliffside terrace and Ciccio, which is particularly suited to lovers passionate about their local production! You can also find local
of PDO meats. The atmosphere is rustic and chic. You can also specialities directly from the producer, such as at the Ortulinu,
order your food and have it delivered if you want to be more
relaxed. In a different and more intimate style, the Casarella is an organic bakery run by a former rugby player who also sells
perfect for those who love Italian gastronomy. local products (the buns and jams are absolutely incredible). If
you like honey, you can’t avoid Nathalie Bourras’ products. She
...AND MANY SPECIALITIES
As far as specialities are concerned, there are several markets in has settled in Carpa, at the top of Bonifacio and makes a wild
Bonifacio. Every Tuesday, the weekly market is held under the honey that varies according to the season. For olive oil lovers,
Loggia de l’Arsenal in the Upper Town. On Fridays, in the same Fabienne Maestracci’s is a reference in PDO. A soft, subtle oil,
place and in a welcoming atmosphere, the producers’ market
with almond and walnut flavours, from thousand-year-old olive
offers numerous products from local agriculture, organic farming trees. In the same way, beer lovers must visit «A strada di a

or Corsican crafts. In Bonifacio, some producers, accommodation biera», a cellar located in the small long street. Julien Guyet has
providers and hoteliers (for breakfasts) have created a network
allowing the consumption of local products (vegetables, fruit, set up a micro-brewery there where he offers his own beverages
wines, cheeses, olive oils, jams...). These professionals, who
promote the short circuit and who reflect Bonifacian know-how, as well as other beers produced in Corsica. The place is really
worth the visit. As you can see, Bonifacio is making great efforts

to develop and promote the region’s gourmet assets. So much

that it was in the heart of the Pisan district, on the heights of the
town, that the Corsican culinary festival Art’è Gustu was held in
April, a two-day meeting between chefs, producers and visitors.
A hundred or so local producers and craftsmen were set up under

144

© Giovanni Santilaurini
© Giovanni Santilaurini

a 1,000 m² tent for this event, which has been sponsored since its AND FAMOUS WINES
The vineyards of the north of the island of beauty are well known,
inception by the chocolate maker Pierre Hermé. Bonifacio also but Corsican vineyards extend to the south of the island. Around
Bonifacio, you will find three that are well worth a stop: Domaine
has a long tradition of fishing, 18 fishermen are authorised to Zuria, Buzzo and Canarelli. Domaine Zuria, named after the family
that runs it, is a young family estate whose first plantations date
fish in the pond. Some of them will offer you to accompany them, back to 2013. The wines that come from three different locations
for example in the framework of Pescatourism operations (it is (Stintinu, Musella and Spinella), are produced in an environmentally
the same concept as agrotourism or oenotourism, please contact friendly way. This concept is clearly explained during the guided
the Tourist Office for more information). Others combine fishing tours offered every Tuesday and Thursday, ending with a tasting in
and cruising, such as Tony Chiocca, who offers trips with meals the cellar. Located in Sant’Amanza, Domaine Buzzo has a long family
on the boat. While on the harbour, if it’s time, you can head to tradition. Thierry Buzzo is an independent winegrower with an
the restaurant Les 4 vents. Located at the end of the harbour, the author’s wine approach. Finally, between the sea, the maquis and
place has a marine atmosphere and will give you the impression the mountains, on sun-drenched granite and limestone soils, the
of being on board a ship. On the same quay, Le Vivier will treat
you to seafood specialities which you can also buy on the spot. If Clos Canarelli has been producing for more than 30 years a wine

the weather is hot, you can also enjoy one of the creations of the renowned throughout the world and an olive oil that is well worth a
visit! Located in Figari, the estate also has vineyards on the edge of
Rocca Serra ice cream maker on the port. Regularly praised by the the cliffs of Bonifacio. This organic wine made using a biodynamic

great chefs, it is THE reference in terms of artisanal ice creams culture is appreciated by wine lovers.
and sorbets. You will also find the Corail de Bonifacio, an original
delicacy with a taste reminiscent of the Calisson d’Aix. The Corail Bonifacio Intercommunal Tourist Office
is made with Corsican almonds, orange, candied lemon from 2 rue Fred Scamaroni, 20169 Bonifacio
Corte and PDO chestnut honey extracted in Bonifacio, to which Phone: +33 (0)4 95 73 11 88
are added some secret spices. So, if you manage to leave, take www.bonifacio.fr

with you the Corsican flavours of this original delicacy, the origin

of which is to be found in a love encounter between a certain
Napoleon and a beautiful Bonifacian woman.

145

ITINERARIES

ITINÉRAIRE © Tonio Bassani

L’île Rousse BALAGNE

ITS NATURE ITS KNOW-HOW
… And the scrubland perfumed the sea The soul of Balagne is in the hands of Man
Small Corsica in Corsica, Balagne concentrates on 944 km² all The land of Balagne is like a mother concerned with feeding her
the landscape treasures of the coast and the inland up to the children properly. This is undoubtedly the reason for its exceptional
mountains. From the highest peaks to the depths of the deep blue fertility, which has earned it the mythical nickname of «the garden of
sea, there are no borders here. In Balagne, nature has settled in Corsica». Both the sea air and the scent of the scrubland are found in
peace and quiet without creating obstacles or disturbances for the vineyards, which overlook the sea. The coastal hinterland and its
those who venture there, as if to express its hospitality and its sunny exposure are just as fertile. Its balcony villages are thriving little
joy of welcoming them. It is no coincidence that man’s influence niches, whose orchards, vegetable gardens and gardens give the best of
is everywhere here, since he has known how to shape it with themselves. Among the most emblematic local products, olive oil wins
such inspiration. Whether the rustle of a leaf falling from a tree, the gold medal for taste and refinement. Inhabitants from Balagne take
the echo of the river responding to the waves, the polyphonic the creativity expressed by their land in consideration to transmit it
song of the birds, the scent of myrtle competing with that of through their hands on precious materials that they transform into
immortelle, Balagne is a source of well-being to be explored. sharing objects, in order to preserve the ancestral know-how of the
region. Thus, each village develops its materials in living workshops
On foot, by bike or in the air... immerse yourself in these where the curious visitor and the craftsman share a magical moment
landscapes whose hospitality never stops inspiring that of encounter and mutual smile.

of humans. « Live happily today, because tomorrow, it will be too late »
Jacques Higelin

Come in... You are at home here!

146

© Sébastien Aude

Citadel of Calvi © ArnaudTorrelli

« RENCONTRES BALANINES » © ArnaudTorrelli
The excellence of the know-how from our region
Passionate about their trade and their living environment, the
winners of the «Rencontres Balanines» brand are eager to share
their talent, which has become a real vocation. They welcome you
to their workshop and are willing to take the precious time to
talk and listen to you. It is this requirement, in terms of care and
welcome for their visitors, that has enabled them to obtain the
«Rencontres Balanines» brand, which they proudly display on the
façade of their production site.

They are just waiting for you...

Craftsmen, potters, jewellery designers, glassmakers, honey or
olive oil producers, singers or winegrowers defend the values of
their living or immaterial heritage, respectful of both Corsican
traditions and hospitality. They will also be able to tell you about
Corsica, their Corsica, and yours too, who knows?... Stroll along the
paths of the Balagne region to discover villages of authentic charm
that are home to these creators of exception. Let yourself be carried
away by these first moments of sharing and smiles which will
certainly mark your visit to Corsica and the Balagne.

Here, more than anywhere else, encounters are at the heart of the journey!

147

ITINERARIES

ITINÉRAIRE

CALVI

By Aurélie Hallereau and Luc Saint-Elie

Located at the north-western end of the island of Beauty Managed by the Kerefoff family, this place alone is a small piece of
facing the coastline of the French Riviera, Balagne, which the cultural life of France from the 60s to the 80s. Jacques Dutronc
broadly is the area between Calvi and Ile Rousse, is a kind and Guy Bedos sang there, Gainsbourg fainted there and Jacques
of postcard of archetypal Corsica. The sea is blue, the sand Higelin almost took up residence there... He even dedicated a
blond and the sky of an azure colour which reflects that of song to it, «La Ballade de Chez Tao». The citadel is a real source of
the Mediterranean sea. The beautiful town of Calvi, a real inspiration. Izia, daughter of Jacques Higelin and goddaughter of
jewel in the island, is a little paradise with a rich heritage one of the Kerefoff brothers, who was at Tao’s when she learned
and history. Discovering the town of Calvi means discovering of her father’s death, named her fourth album «Citadelle», in
a lot of beauty and charm in just one city. tribute to Calvi. While strolling through the citadel, you can stop
at the Palace of the Bishops, the Caserne Sampiero and in some
IRRESISTIBLE CITADEL delicatessens, Corsican designer shops, café terraces... All this
Calvi is made up of two parts: its citadel and its port. Standing under the protection of Sainte Marie. For an unobstructed view
on a rocky promontory overlooking the Mediterranean sea, the of the citadel and the bay of Calvi, take advantage of the height of
majestic Genoese citadel, surrounded by high ramparts, offers a the Rooftop terrace of the Acquale hotel.
unique scene. Like a jewel box set on the water, the citadel looks
out peacefully over the snow-capped massifs of Monte Grossu. At SOME VERY GOOD ADDRESSES
the entrance to the citadel, topped by a marble plaque bearing On your way down from the citadel, take a stroll down rue
the city’s motto «civitas Calvi semper fidelis», you will pass a Clémenceau, THE pedestrian and shopping street of the city. At
statue of Christopher Columbus who, according to history, was the beginning of the street (at number 5), stop at Annie Traiteur,
born in Calvi. Allow time to visit and wander through the narrow it is just one of the best shops for Corsican products in the Balagne
streets of this unique place. During your stroll, you will certainly region, and one of the best supplied. You will find there typical
pass by one of the trendiest places in town: Chez Tao. It is both a takeaway dishes made from local products, you can’t leave without
piano bar and a discotheque from which the view is outstanding. tasting the cheese and courgette fritters! Next door (at number

148