MASTERCHEF 17 ANGLAIS

3), the delicatessen A Loghja Calvi offers a wide range of Corsican
products: wines, liqueurs, condiments, honeys, olive oils, biscuits
and cold meats that you can taste on the spot in a mountain hut
atmosphere. On the opposite side of the road (at number 6), stop
off at the shop of the E Fritelle biscuit factory, a well-known family-
run biscuit factory, located about fifteen kilometres from Calvi in
the village of Calenzana. There is no shortage of restaurants on
the port. At lunchtime, we recommend La Table de Sabine (quai
Adolphe Landy). The service is very good and pleasant and all the
specialities are cooked with fish from the local fishing. Faithful to
Calvi’s history, the Opera Semperfi is another address not to be
missed, where you can find a delicatessen and a wine cellar. This
atypical shop, created by Anthony Albertini, best wine waiter of
Corsica, reveals some treasures of Corsican gastronomy.

AROUND CALVI
The only reason to leave Calvi is to visit the idyllic beaches of Balagne.
There are many beaches to choose from: Galeria for its tranquillity,
Sant’Ambroggio for its picturesque marina, Algajola for its size,
Losari for its entertainment and finally the Ostriconi for its beautiful
white sand. To discover these magnificent beaches in a picturesque
way, we advise you to take the «trinichellu», a small train which goes
along the coast and stops in front of each of them. In Balagne, this

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ITINERARIES

Village of Aregno

Abandoned village of OCCI

little train, which runs slowly with its windows open, is an integral typical Corsican plant. Another nugget of the Balagne region is
part of the landscape. If you like beer, come back to Calvi to visit the Sant’Antonino, a kind of small eagle’s nest. Because of its height
Gloria brewery, whose logo is a stylised reproduction of the Corsican and location, it is the only village in Corsica that you can almost
allegorical figure. Created three years ago by Dume Beretti, a former always see wherever you are in Balagne. It can be visited on foot
cameraman with a passion for beer, the brewery can be visited. To get and invites you to immerse yourself in the Middle Ages, walking
an idea of the contrast between the seaside aspect of the island and through its narrow streets, among which you will see 75 houses
the mountainous relief of the hinterland, go for a walk to the pretty built directly on the rock, with local stone.
little village of Aregno. Set on a hillside, the village and its hamlets
(Torre and Praoli) will make you feel like you are in a different world. FOR GASTRONOMY LOVERS
You will be able to discover beautiful little palaces bearing witness Calenzana is a village on the side of the mountain where
to the glory days of the Balagne region as well as authentic local gourmets will be in for a treat! Numerous wine estates surround
products such as Antoine Negretti’s PDO honey. the village: the Figarella, Orsini, A Ronca, Camellu, and Cardi
estates. Calenzana is home to the «E Fritelle Perrin» biscuit
MEMORABLE HISTORICAL SITES factory, whose shop is in Calvi. In Calenzana, you can meet many
A few kilometres north of Calvi, Lumio is a beautiful town interesting producers such as Barthélemy and Jessica Guidoni,
offering the opportunity for an unforgettable but somewhat a young couple of shepherds who produce farmhouse ewe’s
sporting discovery: a visit to the abandoned village of Occi. milk cheese and PDO Brocciu. On the road to Zilia, Jean-François
Situated on a plateau 377 metres above Lumio, Occi promises Orsini passionately breeds a herd of Corsican calves and also
a breathtaking panoramic view. The foundation of this village makes a delicious olive oil. A few kilometres to the north, in
which was a shelter during the Saracen attacks of the Middle the village of Zilia, the historic biscuit factory of Jean-Noël and
Ages, is estimated to have been made in the 14th or 15th Sandrine Santelli makes Cuggiulelle, a typical Corsican biscuit.
century. Completely deserted in the 19th century, the village
was abandoned in favour of Lumio. Having fallen into ruin, DISCOVERING THE VINEYARDS
it was rebuilt with private funds. There are only three paths The vineyards of Balagne are so rich that there is a Balagne wine
leading to it. If you are in Lumio, make a stop at Astratella, a route, the «Strada Vinaghjola», which extends over 63 kilometres
historical producer of essential oil made from immortelle, a between Calvi and Lavatoggio. In the heart of the Balagne region,

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Prince Pierre-Napoléon Bonaparte castle

located in the towns of Lumio and Montegrosso, the Clos Culombu
estate has been in the same family since 1973. It offers various
activities to discover the vineyard, including bike rides and
donkey rides! For cycling enthusiasts, the Fédération Française
de Cyclisme (French Cycling Federation) recommends two trails
on the estate: the Murato loop and the Cornimozzu. Also born
in the 1970s, the Alzipratu estate is a first-rate estate located
in Zilia. Its comprehensive and sophisticated tour programme
includes a sensory discovery of the vineyard and ends with a
food/wine tasting with Corsican dishes and wines from the
estate. Finally, the Prince Pierre-Napoléon Bonaparte castle is a
recent estate located 17 km south of Calvi. Created in 2017 with
the help of the two aforementioned estates, it is located around
the Château de Torre Mozza, once considered one of the largest
properties in Corsica. A visit to the estate is an opportunity for
a fascinating history lesson and a wine tasting session that is no
less enthralling. To discover Balagne’s vineyards, we advise you
to contact Francois-Marie Buteri, a passionate and fascinating
wine waiter who works in many institutions. At Clos Culombu,
for example, he will organise a guided tour and a personalised
tasting. You can contact him either directly (+33 (0)6 86 26 94
69) or through the Calvi-Balagne Tourist Office.

Calvi-Balagne Intercommunal Tourist Office Clos Culombu vineyards
Chemin de la Plage, Le Port de Plaisance, 20260 Calvi
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 65 16 67 - www.balagne-corsica.com

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ITINÉRAIRES

ITINÉRAIRE

ILE ROUSSE

By Aurélie Hallereau and Nicole Maïon

Ile-Rousse and its surrounding villages perfectly represent by the sea made it a trading place during the Roman era, but also
the culture of the Balagne region in Upper Corsica. Between
breathtaking landscapes and outstanding gastronomic threatened the site with recurrent invasions by the barbarians.
heritage, discover the city of Pascal Paoli, father of the island Deserted by its inhabitants during the Middle Ages, Ile Rousse was
of beauty. then only a place for selling the fishermen and farmers’ products,
who lived on the heights in more secure villages such as Monticello
Despite the ruined loopholes, the ghosts of the Genoese watchtower
still try to watch over the dike linking Isola Pietra to the port of Ile and Santa Reparata di Balagna. In this respect, the history of Ile
Rousse and the fortified mountain villages rising on the heights
of the Balagne. These ghosts could, however, be distracted by the Rousse has always been closely linked to the surrounding villages.
colourful interaction between the azure transparent waters of
one of the most beautiful gulfs in Corsica and the red colour of its This is why a visit to the town should always be coupled with an
porphyry rocks. Five centuries later, they still see visitors strolling exploration of the surrounding small villages in the mountains and
up to the lighthouse lit in 1857 to enjoy the sunset and the changing
light, reflected on the red granite and the Mediterranean coves. plains. Occupied by Genoa as early as 1453, Ile Rousse was reunited
with the mainland by the Genoese authorities, while fortifications
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY protected the city from pirates. When the Corsicans rebelled against
Located in Upper Corsica, île Rousse owes its name to the porphyry
rocks that enclose the surrounding islets. It is a heritage site that the Genoese yoke on the Balagne, they began with Ile-Rousse, the city
bears witness to the history of the Balagne region and Corsica. being an essential stronghold for them. The war for independence
Archaeological traces of the Neolithic period, including ceramics, throughout the 18th century was marked by a major character,
have been discovered on the island of Pietra itself, where the Pascal Paoli, who was appointed Commander in Chief of the Nation
Genoese tower and the lighthouse stand. Being a housing area and Kingdom of Corsica on 20th April 1755. In addition to leading the
since ancient times, Ile Rousse was also a small and prosperous city insurrection for independence, Pascal Paoli implemented a plan for
due to its geographical location. Until the 4th century, it became a the modernisation of the island, a constitution establishing popular
Roman trading post called Rubico Rocega, or Red Rock. Its location sovereignty and the right to vote for men and women. In the midst
of the Enlightenment, Mr Paoli conceived the first democratic state

in Europe. He is also and above all the founding father of Ile Rousse.
Indeed, he created its port with a fortified enclosure to protect it, in
order to compete with the port of Calvi, which was occupied by the
Genoese at the time, and to cut off the maritime traffic with Genoa.
Together with a priest from Balagne, he drew up a plan for the town.

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The covered market

© Olivier Gomez

Place Paoli Pierre-Louis Pistorozzi’s delicatessen

Today, Ile Rousse, known in Corsica as Lisula, is the third largest port
in Corsica. The city has never forgotten the work that Paoli, this man
of Enlightenment, did in favour of Corsican independence, to the
extent that the adjective «paolin» is often used when referring to the
city of Balagne.

TAKE THE TIME TO LIVE Pascal Leonetti best sommelier of France 2006
A first discovery of the old town of Ile Rousse is worth starting with

the Place Paoli where the statue of Pascal Paoli stands in its centre.

The one affectionately called U Babbu («the Father», in Corsican),

is enthroned there and can be seen while sitting on a café terrace

in the shade of the hundred-year-old plane trees. The Place Paoli

is a real meeting place where all generations meet every day. In a
warm atmosphere, many games of petanque are regularly arranged
between friends and enthusiasts. After having taken the time to live
on this square, a meeting with Pascal Leonetti, Best Wine Waiter
of France in 2006 (phone: +33 (0)6 17 06 34 25) will allow you to
know everything about the vineyards of Balagne. With him, you will
be able to take advantage of a tailor-made service to visit the various
wine farms and taste the wines that interest you. To discover another
gustatory heritage of the Balagne region, let’s go to the producers’
market. Built in the 19th century, the covered market, classified
as a historical monument, seems to be a real Greek temple with
its 21 columns. The producers attending the market are a perfect
representation of this region, also known as the garden of Corsica,

with its plains presented as a vast open-air vegetable garden, its

almond trees and its olive groves at the origin of the oliu di Balagna,

the olive oil of Balagne. Before heading off to taste specialities in

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ITINÉRAIRES

The Misericorde church

© Olivier Gomez

Speloncatu village Reginu olive groves

the various villages, a visit to the producers’ market will whet BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES IN THE AREA
To be transported back in time, take a tour around Ile Rousse
your appetite! You can always confess your sin of greediness at to discover the beautiful villages that bear witness to Corsican
the church of the Immaculée Conception de Marie (19th century) culture. We mentioned Santa Reparata di Balagna, one of the
and its forecourt, surrounded by large date palms. Inside, you strongholds of the Fabbiani family and their warehouse on Ile
can admire two 17th century paintings. Finally, after a look at Rousse. This town, classified Natura 2000, is located in the
the Institut des Filles de Marie, which is undergoing an ambitious heart of the beautiful Reginu valley, which is home to numerous
restoration programme, take a stroll through the old town. Look protected species, including the magnificent Royal Milan. In the
up and admire the Florentine houses to finally discover the Eglise Middle Ages, Santa Reparata di Balagna could boast an ancient
de la Miséricorde. During your stroll, don’t hesitate to taste the castle with four towers. Two of them are still visible. This is also
delicious ice creams of the Glacier Lucciani, located on Avenue an opportunity to eat at the farmhouse inn L’Aghjalle. You will
be served local dishes made from local products and, above all,
Picconi! seasonal recipes based on the farm’s fruit and vegetables. A short

BETWEEN CULTURE AND TRADITIONS visit to the Biscotti Josephine biscuit factory will provide you with

Ile Rousse is a city that you can easily discover on foot! On your some sweets to enjoy on your return. In the Reginu valley, you
way, don’t miss the Scalo Tower, built by the Genoese around 1575. can admire the olive groves and, of course, taste the local olive
It was given a new name in the 18th century by its owners at the oil. Don’t hesitate to buy bottles of Olivadia olive oil. This is a way
time, the Fabbiani family, major warehouse and shop owners who to remind you of your holiday in the kitchen when you get home.
stored their goods there. A walk along the A Marinella promenade Similarly, feel free to go to Belgodère if only to taste the gold of
will lead you to one of the three beautiful sandy beaches, namely Balagne, namely the honey of beekeepers François and Michel
Gacon, directly from the Reginu plain. Among the many fortified
Napoleon beach. At the end of the walk is the access to the villages of Balagne, Speloncato and Pigna are worth mentioning.

peninsula of La Pietra, via the dike. This will allow you, after a Situated on the heights of the Nervia valley, the village of Pigna
20-minute walk, to discover the ruins of the Genoese tower and
also tells of the authenticity of the Balagne. As you stroll through
the Fanale di Pietra, the lighthouse of the rocky Pietra peninsula.
its narrow streets, you will discover a site that has been beautifully
Plan this walk at the end of the day to fully experience the sunset
and the breathtaking view of the entire Balagne coastline, from restored by its craftsmen who will tell you passionately about
the Revellata to Cap Corse.

154

Magnificent village of Pigna

their know-how. You will be able to taste good local specialities stock up on the best of Balagne’s cold meats, but also to enjoy
the excellent menus of the I Salti restaurant, on the Reginu plain.
and the wines of the country. For this, you can sit down at the
Pietralba, which opens the doors of the Balagne to visitors, by
restaurant A Casarella! Speloncato has always been a shelter with
high houses, mazes of narrow streets and vaulted passages. After virtue of its geographical location, is also an agro-pastoral town
some lovely detours through the village, stop off at the A Torra which offers unique cheeses made by local producers. A visit to
Paisana shop. Another village not to be missed is Monticello. the farm will allow you to taste the cheeses made by David Costa,
Standing at an altitude of 218 metres, it offers a breathtaking view a farmer who breeds 650 goats. He offers farmhouse, fresh and
of the Mediterranean sea. This old village has kept all its character matured goat cheeses and PDO brocciu. Once you have made your
gastronomic discoveries in the hinterland, enjoy the beautiful
with its narrow streets and vaulted passages. Its visit will whet beaches of fine sand and turquoise water, starting with Bodri
beach near Ile-Rousse. After swimming, walk for about ten minutes
your appetite and may lead you to the well-named restaurant
La Bergerie to taste dishes from the heights of the village. As for in the scrubland to discover the neighbouring site, Ghjunchitu
Corbara, it is one of the oldest villages of Balagne and it gathers beach. Between gastronomy, heritage, varied landscapes and
several hamlets hung on the mounts of Guido, Borgu and Pietralta. leisure activities on outstanding beaches, the Balagne is definitely
Apart from a chapel built in the old arms room of the Castel, worth a visit! It is not a coincidence that Jonathan Cohen and the
Corbara is a typical village with some Moorish architecture. One adventurers of the new series Le Flambeau, parodying Koh Lanta,
of its native inhabitants became Sultana of Morocco! After so are looking to win the competition not in Mexico at Chupacabra
many wonders, a trip down to the beach will allow you to enjoy a but on the coast of Balagne and Ile-Rousse. As Jonathan Cohen
meal of fresh and local fish starting with the Corsican denti at the explained on Konbini: «We chose Corsica because it offers real
restaurant La Siesta. Clinging to their rocky peak and surrounded amazing landscapes. We shot in the north of Corsica and on Ile
by cedars, cypresses but also palm and olive trees, the Ville-di- Rousse, and it really blew our mind!»
Paraso and its four hamlets, have a little air of Tuscany. Such a
place has inspired many artists, starting with Utrillo, who painted Ile Rousse-Balagne Intercommunal Tourist Office
the parish church of Ville di Pariso, the work being now in the Avenue Calizi, 20220 L’Ile-Rousse
Prado Museum. In other words, a stroll through Ville di Pariso Phone: +33 (0)4 95 60 04 35
will inspire you and whet your appetite for wonderful food. Don’t
www.balagne-corsica.com
hesitate to stop by the Pierre-Louis Pistorozzi delicatessen to

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ITINÉRAIRES

Palombaggia beach ITINÉRAIRE

PORTO-VECCHIO

By Aurélie Hallereau and luc Saint-Elie - Photos : François-Xavier Serafino

The region of Porto-Vecchio is a beautiful seaside resort Relais & Château, Jean-Jacques Gauthier, the chef, welcomes
located on the east coast in the very south of Corsica. It is a you for an exceptional moment in an amazing setting. In the
unique place that offers all the faces of the island of beauty north of the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio, you will find the bay of Cala
within a few dozen kilometres. From Porto-Vecchio, you Rossa, the Benedettu peninsula and the Gulf of Saint Cyprien.
will be able to discover all the different aspects of Corsica: You can enjoy the beautiful beaches and the many supervised
scrubland, sea, beaches, mountains, rivers... You will also activities, such as water sports (sailing, windsurfing, paddle,
be able to explore a rich cultural heritage and the many kayaking, etc.), scuba diving and snorkelling. When you arrive
traditions and skills of local producers. On top of that, you on the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio, you can’t miss the Belvedere hotel,
will find local particularities, such as ancient salt marshes a stunning 4-star hotel whose gourmet restaurant is well worth
which have earned the town the nickname of «City of Salt». a stop. The terrace facing the sea is idyllic. You can enjoy a
cuisine that favours seasonal products and local aromatic plants.
Like most Corsican towns, Porto-Vecchio has had an eventful Another option is the splendid 5-star Casadelmar hotel, whose
history through invasions and battles. In the Corsican language, restaurant, where chef Fabio Bragagnolo is at work, has been
Porto-Vecchio is called «Portivechju», which means «old port». awarded two Michelin stars. Just a few more metres and you are
To discover this beautiful town, we suggest that you don’t stop at in the heart of the city.
the «must-see» sites and activities, but rather get off the beaten
track, because, in reality, Porto-Vecchio and its surroundings THE MAGIC OF THE CITY
have much more to offer! Like other Corsican towns with a strong Genoese past, the citadel
of Porto-Vecchio was built by the Office of Saint George under
THE WONDERFUL SEA the former Republic of Genoa, in order to develop the fertile land
In the south of the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio, you can enjoy all the around it and to watch over the movements of the sea and defend
pleasure of the beach: you can relax, swim, have lunch... On the against attacks. The first destination is the citadel and its Genoese
beautiful beach of Palombaggia, if you feel peckish or just a little gate, which was originally the only entrance to the citadel. In
thirsty, you can take a break at the straw huts «I Pini» or, very the past, it gave direct access to the port, but today it offers an
close to it, «La Paillotte». This is the opportunity to taste good unobstructed view of the salt marshes located at the mouth of
grilled food or fresh fish with your feet in the water! If you have the Stabiacciu. These salt marshes are today unexploited and
a more gastronomic taste, we suggest La Table de Mina. In this closed to the public, but they have previously contributed to the

156

The citadel view

economic development of the town since they produced one fifth Marina
of Corsica’s consumption during the First Empire. The citadel is
a lovely place to walk around. Walk along its ramparts and visit
one of its five bastions, the Bastion de France. The Tourist Office
offers guided tours as well as cultural exhibitions every summer.
Its roof terrace offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the Gulf
of Porto-Vecchio. Shopping enthusiasts will be happy to visit
the boutiques in the upper town to discover the many island
designers such as Calarena, Karma Koma, Benoa or Casanera.
Sometimes, in the evening, you can enjoy concerts in the central
square of the upper town. You can also listen to polyphonic songs
in the church of Saint Jean-Baptiste. Located in the centre of the
citadel, this baroque church was built in the 19th century on the
remains of an old Genoese building. In the old town, underneath
the citadel below the ramparts, the marina, with its numerous
restaurants and ice cream shops, is a perfect place to relax at
the end of the day. You will find yourself daydreaming as you
watch the boats return to the quay. Just a stone’s throw from the
port, you can visit the Usine à Liège. The exploitation, treatment
and processing of cork has greatly contributed, along with the
exploitation of the salt marshes, to the economic development
of Porto-Vecchio. Today, the old factory is a cultural place. It is
home to the theatre company «I Chjachjaroni», which regularly
holds shows for children and adults during the summer. Another
experience, both very local and very pleasant, is to have an
aperitif on a terrace in the heart of the town and share a platter
of Corsican cold meats and cheeses. For this, we recommend

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ITINÉRAIRES

Ospedale village

going to the Bel Ombra in Rue Aspirant Michelin, to the U a stroll out of time. On leaving the village, stop at the pinnacle of
Spuntinu located on the church forecourt or to the Vinyle in U Pinu Tortu to enjoy a stunning view of the coastline. Further
Rue Borgu. These typical bars will take you on a journey with a up, you will come to the hamlets of Agnaronu and Cartalavonu.
fine selection of cold meats and cheeses. At dinner time, many Continuing in the direction of Zonza, in the heart of a forest of
restaurants in the heart of the town offer local and traditional laricio pines and beech trees, you will arrive at the Ospedale
cuisine. One example is A Cantina di l’Orriu at 5 cours Napoléon. dam. This dam supplies drinking water to the entire region of
This typically Corsican restaurant has a pleasant terrace and the extreme south of Corsica. If you are a thrill-seeker, Xtrem Sud
an adjoining shop, where you can find local specialities. From offers you its via ferrata and its adventure course in the trees.
the terrace of the restaurant A Furana in Rue Borgo, you have a
fantastic view of the port. Finally, the family restaurant Sous la A HIKER’S PARADISE
Tonnelle, in rue Général Abbatucci, has been run by mother and Above Porto-Vecchio, you enter the domain of the Corsican
daughter since 1967, and has a warm and cosy atmosphere. To mountains, the reliefs quickly become higher, with beautiful
stay in the local atmosphere, look out for the often religious but views of the sea. Around l’Ospedale, you will find beautiful
above all cultural various traditional festivals, such as the Fête hiking trails. One of them is the Mare à Mare Sud, a mid-
patronale de la Saint-Jean (24 June) or the Fête traditionnelle mountain itinerary that links Porto-Vecchio to Propriano in five
porto-vecchiaise known as «Luddareddu» on 31 July. stages, passing through the villages of the Alta Rocca. Situated
between two stages of the Mare à Mare Sud, A Punta di a Vacca
THE MOUNTAIN, MORE AUTHENTIC THAN EVER Morta is another well-known itinerary that offers breathtaking
We have seen the sea and the town... Let’s now take a look at views. Finally, A Piscia di Ghjaddu is a beautiful hike of only 4
the mountains. About twenty minutes from Porto-Vecchio, km above the dam. At the end of this route, you will discover
l’Ospedale is a lovely little mountain village located at 900 metres the wonderful Piscia di Ghjaddu waterfall, which springs from a
altitude in the massif of the same name. The village itself, built in mineral wall and falls 70 metres. This natural curiosity is one of
granite, with its chapel, fountain and gardens, invites you to take the region’s must-see walks: laricio pines, waterfalls, rocks, rock

158

© ODARC
© ODARC

Corsican delicatessen by Maxence Finidori Aromatic plants of Stéphane Rogliano

shelters... you will be amazed! As for eating, drinking or sleeping, in Porto-Vecchio is a great group of producers where you will
although wild, the region offers a lot of facilities. You will come find plenty of fresh and local products. There is no shortage of
across bars, restaurants and numerous gites. We recommend the delicatessens. We recommend A Muredda, Au Panier Rouge and
Refuge at Cartalavonu, in the Ospedale forest or the Auberge du Sapori Nustrali. You will leave with plenty of memories in your
Col de Bavella. head and in your luggage.

WOMEN, MEN, KNOW-HOW Porto-Vecchio Intercommunal Tourist Office
Very far from the peri-sport activities, the region of Porto- Avenue Maréchal Leclerc
Vecchio is, by its variety, a great opportunity to immerse oneself 20137 Porto-Vecchio
in the Corsican soil, to go and meet men, women and know-how. Phone: +33 (0)4 95 70 09 58
On the Authentic Senses Way, many craftsmen, craftswomen www.ot-portovecchio.com
and producers open their doors to talk about their trade with
passion. You can meet Didier Beltramo, breeder and producer
of farmhouse cheeses called Les Bergeries de Bala. In Figari,
Maxence Finidori will show you his farm and his black pig breeding
on board a buggy. For a unique moment of escape, the aromatic
plant producer Stéphane Rogliano offers you olfactory aperitifs
in the middle of myrtles and lentisks, immortelles, rockroses,
creeping junipers and mountain thyme... Many activities that will
leave you with unforgettable memories. Speaking of souvenirs,
if you want to take home some of the island’s products, go to
the farmers’ markets in Lecci (on Wednesday mornings) and
Porto-Vecchio (on Sunday mornings). The U Core Paesanu shop

159

ADDRESS BOOK

OUR FAVOURITE
PLACES

- AJACCIO - Maison Ferrero - BASTIA - the chefs Vincent Peinado and
Fill up on flavours in this Michael Tedesco. In a warm
Le Palm Beach Hôtel le Bastia and friendly atmosphere, we
On the road to the beautiful delicatessen. Located on the heights of Bastia advise you to try the shellfish
Sanguinaires, the Palm Beach 4 bd Madame Mère marinière... A real treat! At
welcomes you in an idyllic and overlooking the city, the Corto, everything is home-
setting. You will be lulled by Phone: +33 (0)4 95 21 30 75 hotel has 60 very comfortable made with local and seasonal
the lapping of the waves only www.maisonferrero.com rooms and 7 flats. It offers a
10 metres from the rooms. panoramic view of the sea and products. It is really worth the
Route des îles Sanguinaires Hôtel Mercure visit!
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 52 01 03 A beautiful 4-star hotel for an a very warm welcome.
11 bd Benoîte Danesi 1 rue de la Marine
https://palm-beach.fr exceptional moment. Phone: +33(0)4 20 19 01 90 Phone: +33(0)4 95 48 52 87
115 Cours Napoléon
L’Ariadne Plage Phone: +33(0)4 95 10 09 09 www.hotel-lebastia.fr https://www.facebook.com/
With your feet in the water https://all.accor.com
on the Ariadne beach, this Le Corto CortoBastia/
restaurant offers seafood Hôtel San Carlu Located on the Vieux Port
Facing the citadel, this splendid of Bastia, the restaurant Le
cuisine: grilled fish, 4-star hotel is a place of life and Corto is a must for lovers of
bouillabaisse and lobsters are fish and shellfish... All the
relaxation. sea products are cooked with
on the menu. 8 bd Danièle Casanova refinement and delicacy by
20 route des Sanguinaires Phone: +33(0)4 95 21 13 84
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 52 09 63 www.hotelsancarlu.com

Restaurant Chez Pech Clos Capitoro
Come and enjoy fish and Located on the Gulf of Ajaccio,
shellfish specialities with a
breathtaking view of the sea. the vineyard extends over
Route des Sanguinaires 30 hectares.
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 52 00 90
20166 Grosseto-Prugna
www.au-bec-fin.com Phone: +33(0)4 95 25 19 61

www.clos-capitoro.com

160

HÔTEL DEMEURE LES MOUETTES

CHARM, FEET IN THE WATER

By Sylvie Heullant

A privileged location on the road leading to the Sanguinaires, a the same high standards of quality, the menu takes on the appearance
of a refined trattoria, halfway between Italy and Corsica. When the
few steps from the centre of Ajaccio and its colourful streets and days get cooler, the elegant dining room takes over. As for the wine
list, it offers the finest local wines, but in the future, it may extend its
lively markets, but a thousand miles from the hustle and bustle, island concept by inviting other Mediterranean islands (Greece, Sicily,
Sardinia, etc.) to be represented on it. The service, particularly caring,
an outstanding panoramic view of the sea, a heavenly setting, brings an extra soul and undoubtedly contributes to make its guests
live unique moments. At the spa, the Intimu treatments, with 100%
unparalleled service... the charm of this former 19th century villa Corsican organic active ingredients and essential oils, are provided on
the hotel’s roof terrace, with the added bonus of a breathtaking view
is felt at every moment. of the Mediterranean. In addition, you will enjoy a small golden sandy
private beach, a heated seawater swimming pool and a jacuzzi facing
A PRESTIGIOUS PAST the sea... All these ingredients contribute to create the magic of this
L’Hostellerie de la Grande Bleue is a house built in 1880 by a exceptional and discreetly elegant place.
Corsican family who used to come here in the summer and which
was transformed in 1930 into an inn, a tea dance and a seaside Hôtel Demeure Les Mouettes 4*
establishment. Families from Ajaccio came there to relax and the 9 Cours Lucien Bonaparte, 20000 Ajaccio
tourists from the north of Europe, attracted by the mild temperatures, Phone: +33 (0)4 95 50 40 40
came to spend the winter. Bought by a family of hoteliers, the Baretti,
at the end of the 1940s to make a film studio, it was transformed in www.hotellesmouettes.fr
1954 into a luxury establishment renamed Les Mouettes. As one of the
first prestigious hotels in Ajaccio, it has welcomed many famous guests
from the world of art, entertainment, sport and politics, from Marcel
Pagnol to Maria Callas. Since its takeover in 2006, its current owner
Jean-Baptiste Pieri, who was trained in the luxury hotel business from
an early age by his parents who ran the Castel Brando in Erbalunga,
has been successfully restoring the soul of this elegant and charming
place.

A TASTE OF PARADISE Chef Alessandro Capone

In this luxurious establishment, which looks like a large and beautiful
family villa, and which is a member of the Châteaux et Hôtels Collection
- Les Collectionneurs chain, almost all of the 27 comfortable rooms and
suites, elegantly and carefully decorated, have terraces overlooking the
sea. A large and beautiful terrace lined with eucalyptus and palm trees,
with the Gulf of Ajaccio as the only horizon, the blue of the sea and the
sky merging into a lively and hypnotising picture, what better place
to drink a cocktail at sunset and to taste at dinner time the delicate,
creative and gastronomic cuisine of the promising Alessandro Capone,
Gault & Millau 2019. Made from the best island products, according to
the rhythm of the seasons, his dishes invite you on a gustatory journey
to the heart of the Corsican and Mediterranean soils. At lunchtime, with

161

ADDRESS BOOK

OUR FAVOURITE
PLACES

- BASTELICACCIA - - BONIFACIO - Sperenanza A Cheda

Auberge du Prunelli Hôtel A Cheda With the services of A Cheda, seven contemporary luxury suites,
each with its own private garden and swimming pool, are set in an
Florie Castellana, mixologist A few steps from the town extension of the vegetable garden and gardens. The interior spaces,
and author of the only book of of Bonifacio and its port, in which are largely open to nature and planted with Mediterranean
cocktails in Corsica, «Signature essences, distil a true art of living. Refinement, discretion, choice of
the heart of a beautifully high quality natural materials, attentive service... All the ingredients
- Cocktails de Corse», has landscaped garden, the
settled in the cellar of the charming hotel A Cheda are there for an unforgettable stay.
Auberge de Prunelli, a place welcomes you in the calm
with a strong identity in the and intimate atmosphere of https://asperanza.com/
Ajaccio region. A meeting a Corsican Dimora. The hotel
between island mixology and offers all the services of a four-
star quality establishment
Corsican gastronomy. in an elegant and relaxed
Pont de Pisciatello atmosphere. Each of the 16
characterful rooms, set in
Phone: +33(0)4 95 20 02 75 pretty individual houses with
dry stone walls, is individually
decorated. The gourmet
restaurant offers creative
Mediterranean cuisine using
fresh local produce and
products from the property’s
organic garden. You can also
enjoy its beautiful heated
outdoor pool, a jacuzzi, a sauna

and a spa.
Cavallo Morto
Phone: +33(0)4 95 73 03 82

https://acheda-hotel.com

Chez Marco - LUMIO - guests in a Corsican style is summer season. Passionate and
expressed through a warm talented, this son and grandson
Ideally located on the beach of Hôtel A Casa Di Mà and attentive service. The 28
La Tonnara, this restaurant is rooms, some with terrace, of restaurateurs has worked
THE place to be for fish lovers. Between land and sea, the offer all the comfort of a luxury in prestigious restaurants.
This restaurant welcomes you hotel A Casa di Mà is ideally hotel. For the pleasure of your The hotel also has two bars,
in an idyllic setting, entirely located 15 minutes from Calvi, taste buds, the gastronomic one of which is located near
20 minutes from Ile-Rousse restaurant with Mediterranean the beautiful heated outdoor
open to the sea, to enjoy a flavours «La Table di Mà»
simple and authentic cuisine. and the pretty mountain welcomes its new chef Vincent swimming pool.
villages of Balagne. It offers Champ for the start of the Route de Calvi
Plage de la Tonnara both a breathtaking view of the Phone: +33(0)4 95 60 61 71
Phone: +33(0)4 95 73 02 24 mountains and the bay of Calvi.
In the hotel, the art of receiving www.acasadima.com
www.chezmarco-tonnara.com

162

CASTEL BRANDO

A HOUSE FULL OF CHARM
AND CHARACTER

By Sylvie Heullant

The picturesque port of Cap Corse, Erbalunga, is home to an © Hôtel Castel Brando 2022
authentic and elegant 19th century mansion set in a century-
old park of palm trees, cedars, olive trees, Caribbean lime
trees and other exotic species. With the mountains as a
backdrop, Castel Brando conveys an atmosphere of serenity.
The charm of the past combined with modern comforts
make it a unique address.

AN IDEAL LOCATION FOR A HISTORIC PROPERTY

Just 9 kilometres from Bastia, the cultural and historical capital
of Corsica, Castel Brando is ideally located to discover the
natural and patrimonial treasures of Cap Corse. The typical
pebble beaches and small wild coves can be reached on foot
and the beautiful sandy beaches are only 10 minutes away by
car. Being a member of the Châteaux et Hôtels Collection - Les
Collectionneurs chain, Castel Brando is one of these «Americans’
Houses», typical beautiful colonial residences of Cap Corse built
by Corsicans who came back from their exile from the New
World. Five years ago, Julien Pieri took over the running of the
property created by his parents, Joëlle and Jean-Paul. In the late
1980s, they acquired Castel Brando as an impulse purchase
from the Calisti family, who made their fortune in the sugar
cane plantations of Santo Domingo. After many years of neglect,
they set about restoring it with traditional materials and period
furniture, recreating the soul of the house and transforming the
palazzo into a small authentic hotel, a category that did not exist
in Corsica at the time. Today, Joëlle and Jean-Paul’s presence
continues to enliven the house. Concerned about the well-
being of their guests, the owners have managed to preserve the
atmosphere of a beautiful family home where the gentle lifestyle
and the art of hospitality are fostered.

A HAVEN OF PEACE AND RELAXATION Julien and Jean-Paul Pieri

More than a hotel, Castel Brando conveys a timeless lifestyle Hôtel Castel Brando 4*
where time seems to stand still. The 40 air-conditioned rooms Route du Cap, Erbalunga
and suites, all different and tastefully furnished, are located in 20222 Brando
the historic house and in the lovely outbuildings with terraces. Phone: +33 (0)4 95 30 10 30
At aperitif time, Vincent Micheli’s delicious cocktails, created www.castelbrando.com
with local ingredients, can be enjoyed in the gardens or on the
beautiful vintage veranda to the sound of the house piano. Served
in the beautifully decorated restaurant, «Les Américains», or on
the large shaded terrace, which is reminiscent of a charming
Mediterranean village square, the tasty Corsican-style cuisine
of chef Simon Fleury gives pride of place to organic, fresh and
local produce. It is accompanied by the best island wines. The
spa also provides an island atmosphere, where treatments are
carried out with a range of Corsican «Intimu» products with the
scents of myrtle, lavender, immortelle... Two swimming pools,
one of which is heated, an indoor jacuzzi, a meeting room and a
gym room are also available to guests.

163

ADDRESS BOOK

OUR FAVOURITE
PLACES

- PORTO-VECCHIO - A Rundinella
Located about 10 minutes
Hôtel Goldens Tulip from the beach, this property
At Goldens Tulip Hotel, offers accommodation with
enjoy the view from your facilities such as an outdoor
room’s balcony. Take a dip in pool open in season, free
the heated outdoor pool or private parking, a garden
relax on the terrace. Fitness and a barbecue. This 3-star
facilities are also available. residence offers room service,
concierge service and free Wi-
Rue Henri Frenay Fi. The hotel has family rooms.
Phone: +33(0)4 13 96 18 13
Lieu-dit Asciajo
https://porto-vecchio. route de Palombaggia
Phone: +33(0)4 20 19 01 90
goldentulip.com
www.corse-loc.com
Restaurant l’Alivi
Gourmets can enjoy the best Les Villas de Lava
Located in Appietto near
Corsican recipes... Lava beach, Les Villas de
Route de Pezza Carda Lava offers accommodation
Phone: +33(0)4 95 21 80 22 with a dining area and a fully

La table de Nathalie equipped kitchen.
In this restaurant, the chef D381, 20167 Appietto
cooks delicious recipes based Phone: +33(0)4 20 19 01 90
on fresh regional and seasonal
www.lesvillasdelava.net
produce!
4 rue Jean Jaurès
Phone: +33(0)4 95 71 65

- PORTO-VECCHIO - at the Utile of the Pôle du
Stabiacciu, in Porto-Vecchio,
Rémy Mary, Corsican butcher specialises in the maturing
of purebred meats in a cellar,
and caterer with exceptional taste and
As a strong advocate of a
constantly evolving cuisine, tenderness.
this enthusiast offers noble, « Utile » - Pôle du Stabiacciu,
identity-based and quality
products in the renowned 20137 Porto-Vecchio
family store, created in Phone: +33(0)9 72 66 46 44
1973 in Saint Cyprien by
the Stromboni brothers. Centre commercial de
Since 2018, a second shop Saint Cyprien, 20137 Lecci
Phone: +33(0)4 95 71 61 03

164

« A  n elegant place,
discreet and full

charm  »

L’ACQUALE

A LUXURY COCOON IN THE HEART OF CALVI

By Philippe Heullant

Ideally located on the heights, in the middle of the bay of the THE WELL-BEING INTERLUDE
A large heated swimming pool, equipped with hydromassage jets,
Genoese city, close to the fine sandy beaches, the port and the will delight young and old alike. The recently opened spa features
a hammam and a jacuzzi in an elegant and relaxing setting. A fully
historic centre at the same time, the L’Acquale hotel is the ideal equipped gym is available throughout the day.

place to discover the capital of the Balagne. MEETING
A large room equipped with new generation projection equipment
AN ELEGANT AND WARM ATMOSPHERE with touch screen will host your meetings. The hotel L’Acquale
You will be welcomed by the Acquaviva family who have managed in Calvi is definitely one of the must-see hotels on the island of
to transform this hotel into an elegant, discreet and charming place. beauty.
All the rooms and suites have a sea view, so you can admire the half-
moon shaped bay of Calvi and the medieval citadel at any time of the Hôtel l’Acquale 4*
day. The rooms are elegantly and luxuriously furnished and have a Avenue Santa Maria, 20260 Calvi
terrace or a garden. In the evening, head to the Roof Top where you Phone: +33 (0)4 95 65 24 23
can enjoy the sunset over the bay and the Monte Grossu mountains. www.hotelacquale.com
This magical place offers a tapas menu mainly composed of local
products, accompanied by a wine list of the best vineyards in the
region and a very creative cocktail list.

165

CRAFTSMANSHIP

CORSICA’S ARTISANAL
KNOW-HOW

The Island of beauty’s crafts mark the strong identity of the Corsican people
and its culture through the earth, fire and water.

By Nicole Maïon

Knife from the Jean-Noël Guillaumin cutlery

Besides beautiful landscapes, varying from the coast to the CUTLERY, A SHARPENED ART
mountains and sunny lands, Corsica is a land where traditional Knife culture in Corsica dates back to the ancient period when Corsica
craftsmanship is passed on from generation to generation, became Roman in the 2nd century. The Corsicans learned to use the
notably in the service of tableware that highlights the tasty local ore to make tools for work but also to defend themselves from
traditional dishes of Corsican culture. In each of the island’s invaders. Each one thus had its own knife, manufactured by the village
micro-regions, crafts have developed for daily use, from cutlery blacksmith. The shepherds, for their part, designed their own knives
to pottery and ceramics, including basketry and even ironwork from the materials available, from metal or wood scraps to goat and
to make knives, jugs, baskets and chairs. These traditional skills ram horns. Cutlery is one of the most renowned crafts in Corsica. The
have been enriched with modern techniques to offer original different types of knives vary according to each Corsican region and
pieces that tell the story of Corsica and its culture. The rusticity, especially mark the personality of their owner. Apart from the different
authenticity and generosity of Corsican gastronomy can be types of knives, starting with the shepherd’s knife with a distinct shape,
appreciated by the taste but also by the look of the handcrafted the stiletto, which appeared during the Renaissance, was the weapon
objects to be used at table. A different way of discovering the of choice for the Corsicans in a land where the successive occupants
island culture through the materials specific to the island in of the island forbade the carrying of weapons. Cutlery tells in its own
the service of the preparation and presentation of culinary way the Corsican culture and also the codes of honor. The cutlers
dishes. Earth, wood, especially chestnut wood, but also metal have always developed this ancestral art to the point of transforming
sublimated by ironwork are invited, not to mention the braiding their knife into a precious and personalized work of art, sometimes
of myrtle wood and wicker to create baskets and baskets on the to the point of engraving it with coral and the eye of Saint Lucia as the
table. ultimate good luck charm with the added bonus of absolute durability.

166

Knives

Jean-Noël Guillaumin
Professional cutler since 2004, Jean-Noël Guillaumin makes with

passion unique pieces from the traditional Corsican shepherd
knife to the most sophisticated folding knives. Each new knife
that leaves the workshop is a challenge for Jean-Noël who started

with a stilettu, the stylus.

Nebbiu - Capi Corsu - Plaine du Nebbiu, Saint Florent

Knives Pottery

Fabien Cazorla Julien Truchon
Fervent defender of traditions and their implementation, Fabien Modelling the clay, shaping the pieces, drying them, firing them...
Cazorla is real, authentic and passionate. If you want to meet him, Natural gestures for this young man, who as a child already played
come to Scata! He will explain to you how he shapes a horn for a in his father’s pottery workshop. Today, Julien is famous beyond the
handle or how he works the metal sometimes, with the help of his borders in the table arts with unique creations or in very limited

father and his sister. series... You can visit him all year long.
Casinca - Castagniccia - Lieu dit fabrica vecchia - route d’Orezza, Scata
Nebbiu - Capi Corsu - Campo d’Elge, Patrimonio
Knives

Bertrand Filhol
Bertrand Filhol is a blacksmith at heart. When he was 10 years old,
he was already trying to forge a blade with an old piece of steel and a
barbecue. After many years of training, Bertrand Filhol took his anvil

to Sari d’Orcino to open his own workshop and make his knives.
Dui Sevi-Dui Sorru - Cruzini - Cinarca - ld Chiosella, Coggia

THE CLAY METAMORPHOSIS
The earth, water, fire... Corsican craftsmen have always made
pottery for functional but also decorative purposes with a glazed
ceramic version. From the ancient potter to the art craftsman,
potter and ceramist, Corsican tables are colored by artistic pieces
that tell the story of the island’s land. From the choice of the lands
used, the techniques of shaping to the decoration, these containers
are a way to take in hand a little of the island of beauty.

SCENTED BASKETS
Scents of the maquis are not only about cheeses and herbs. The
baskets are also a source of perfumes at the table. Basketry has
been developed since the dawn of time from branches and stems
delicately picked from the maquis. Basket makers weave and
intertwine the branches of myrtle or rush to create different kind of
baskets, and even cheese molds.

ARTISANAL RED CORAL HARVESTING Basketry
According to the legend, the coral would be the petrified blood of
the queen of Corsica, Medusa, and would repel the evil spell. Its Natalina Figarella
Recognizable by her black hat, her plaid shirt and her baskets, Noëlle
artisanal harvesting is carried out at a depth of nearly 100 meters Figarella grew up watching her father weave all sorts of branches and
twigs to make baskets, fatoghje or other pots. Taking up her father’s
by hand. This activity is very regulated because only authorized torch was an obvious choice and for the past few years, Natalina has
fishermen can dive in the sea bed searching for the red gold, on
delimited fishing zones, on the island coasts. The precious branches been offering her own creations.
provide protection in the form of jewelry but are also integrated Casinca - Castagniccia - Costa Verde - Lieu-dit E Prunciali, Silvareccio

into decorative art pieces in the home.

167

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES AND SPIRITS

CORSICA

ENJOY TRADITIONS

White, blond, amber and black, there are four types of beers produced in Corsica by three main
breweries, a semi-industrial brewery, two artisanal breweries and some microbreweries. On
the whole island, you can also taste the Cap Corse, a sweet wine with cinchona. This vermilion
colored aperitif has a bitter and woody taste. As for brandies, you will find them all over the
territory, brandies made from grape marc or macerated fruits like arbutus or hawthorn berries.
Several distilleries produce liquors. There are many varieties: liquors flavored with myrtle, lemon,
chestnut or mandarin. Finally, Rappu, traditionally produced in the Cap Corse district, is an
aperitif wine with smoky and fruity aromas and flavors of licorice, caramel and prun. And what

about cocktails? Here are some Made in Corsica cocktails!

COCKTAILS

COCKTAILS
MADE IN CORSE
By Sylvie Heullant - Photos : Rémy Cortin

COCKTAILS MADE BY FLORIE CASTELLANA - CONCEPT STORE MATTEI IN BASTIA

CORSICAN’ TINI

• 4 cl of Gin Mattei L’Immortel
• 3 cl of Cap Corse Mattei White

• 1 burnt immortelle flower

In a mixing glass filled with ice cubes, pour the Gin Mattei
L’Immortel and the Cap Corse Mattei Blanc. Stir with a
mixing spoon. Pour into a cocktail glass. Decorate with a

lightly burned immortelle flower.

A NOSTRA

• 3 cl of Gin Mattei
• 3 cl of Cap Corse Mattei White

• 4 pieces of fresh grapefruit
• 1 handful of mint
• 2 cl of vanilla syrup

• Schweppes tonic or homemade tonic soda

In a Tumbler glass, crush the grapefruit and the mint with
the vanilla syrup. Add the crushed ice, then the Mattei gin,
the Mattei white Cap Corse and top up with Schweppes

tonic. Stir the whole with a mixing spoon.
Decorate with mint.

170

CORSICA MARGARITA CAPO SPRITZ

• 4 cl of Tequila Blanco • 1/3 of Cap Corse Mattei Red or White
• 2 cl of Cap Corse Mattei Red • 2/3 of sparkling muscatel
• 2 cl of Cap Corse Mattei Red Grande Reserve • 1/2 slice of orange

• 2 cl of Cointreau In a large Spritz glass filled with ice cubes, pour the Cap
• 2 cl of lemon juice Corse Mattei and the sparkling muscatel. Mix everything
• 1,5 cl of sugar syrup
• 1 slice of dried orange together with a cocktail spoon. Decorate with ½ slice
of orange.

In a shaker filled with ice cubes, pour the Tequila, Cap Corse Mattei Concept Store
Rouge and Cap Corse Grande Réserve, Cointreau, sugar 15 boulevard du Général de Gaulle
20200 Bastia
syrup and lemon juice. Shake vigorously. Pour into a Mattei Phone: +33 (0)4 95 32 44 38
glass and strain through a tea strainer. Garnish with a slice www.mattei-conceptstore.com

of dried orange.

171

COCKTAILS

COCKTAILS MADE BY HUGO FALLER - COCKTAIL BAR AT THE HOTEL LES GOUVERNEURS IN BASTIA

STRAWBERRY
NEPITA

• 45 ml of Alma vodka
• 25 ml of red Cap Corse Mattei
Grande Réserve
• 20 ml of organic lemon juice
• 30 ml strawberry coulis flavored
with nepita (wild marjoram)

For 1L of strawberry coulis :
• 500 g strawberries
• 3 beautiful branches of nepita
• 1 glass of red Cap Corse Mattei
Grande Réserve
• 250 g of white powdered sugar
• 1/2 L of water

For the strawberry coulis:
Sauté 300 g of strawberries in a
saucepan over high heat for 1 min then
stir in the Cap Corse. After the alcohol
has evaporated, add the nepita leaves,
cover and leave to infuse over low heat
for about 10 minutes. Add the rest of
the strawberries, the water and blend.
Strain. Add sugar and bring to a boil.
Reduce to the consistency of a coulis
and let cool.

Pour all ingredients into a shaker filled
with ice. Ingredients must be cool.
Shake vigorously. Strain through a fine
sieve into a Martini glass without ice.
Decorate with a beautiful strawberry
spiked with a sprig of nepita.

Hôtel des Gouverneurs 4 étoiles
3 bis rue des Turquines, 20200 Bastia
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 47 10 10
www.hoteldesgouverneurs.fr

172

APA

• 45 ml of butterfly lavender infused tequila reposado
• 15 ml of bitter orange liqueur • 15 ml of white Cap Corse
Mattei Grande Réserve • 20 ml of organic yellow lemon juice
• 25 ml of honey syrup of the maquis

For 1L of butterfly lavender infused tequila reposado:
• 1L of tequila reposado
• 25 g of butterfly lavender flowers
• 60 ml of water

For 1L of maquis honey syrup:
• 400 g of maquis honey • 600 ml of water

For the butterfly lavender infused tequila reposado:
Heat the water. In a container, soak the lavender flowers with
hot water, add the tequila. Cover and leave in the dark for 5 to 7
days. Filter.

For the honey syrup of the maquis: In a saucepan, heat the
honey and water until dissolved, let cool.

Pour all the ingredients into a shaker filled with ice.The
ingredients must be fresh. Shake vigorously. Strain through a
fine sieve into a Margarita glass without ice. Decorate with a
butterfly lavender flower.

THE CAP GARDEN

• 45 ml of Mattei L’Immortel gin
• 25 ml of white Cap Corse Mattei Grande Réserve
• 30 ml rosemary/lemon syrup
• 20 ml of organic lemon juice

For 1L of rosemary/lemon syrup:
• 1 bowl of fresh wild rosemary
• 2 large organic lemons
• 380 g white sugar powder
• 620 ml water

For the rosemary/lemon syrup:
Steep the rosemary and lemon peels in simmering
water.Turn off, cover and let macerate overnight. Strain,
add sugar and heat until sugar is dissolved. Let cool.

Pour all ingredients into a shaker filled with ice.
Ingredients must be cool. Shake vigorously. Strain
through a fine sieve into a Rocks glass over ice.
Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a lemon peel.

173

VISIT

PIETRA

A CRAFT BEER WITH A GOOD
CHESTNUT TASTE

Brewed with chestnut flour from the Castagniccia mountains, Pietra has become the emblematic beer of
Corsica in the space of 30 years. The roundness of its mouthfeel, its creamy foam and its bitter acid attack
have won over the hearts of holidaymakers and locals, who have also adopted the new additions to the

range: the blonde, the white with the herbaceous notes of the maquis or the IPA.
All the scents of Corsica concentrated in one bottle.

Interview by Philippe and Sylvie Heullant - Text: Tatiana Geiselmann - Photos Rémy Cortin

With an amber color, a generous and unctuous foam and spicy FROM BREADFRUIT TO LIQUID BREAD
caramel aromas, Pietra is one of the emblems of Corsica. Impossible Exiled in Paris and cramped in their executive position, the
to leave the Island of Beauty without having opened at least one Sialellis came back to spend some vacations in Corsica in the
bottle of this local beer, with your toes in a fan, in the shade of the summer of 1992, shortly after the birth of their son Hugo. «One
pine forest, the soft lapping of the waves in the background. However, evening, while drinking a half pint on the terrace, Armelle said to
when Dominique and Armelle Sialelli launched their first brewery herself that it would be nice if we could drink a Corsican beer,»
nearly 30 years ago, nobody believed in their project. «Corsica is a recalls her husband. The idea was born, but the business was not
land of wines, olive trees, cheeses and cold meats,» says Dominique, quite there yet. It will take four years for the couple to release
a native of the region. «Beer is normally produced in the North, in their first bottle. «I didn’t think it was necessarily legitimate
Belgium and Germany. At the time, no brewery existed on the island. to make beer here in Corsica,» explains Dominique Sialelli,
And this was the starting point of their little business. «I needed a local base. The young parents therefore looked
into the history of beer and discovered that the drink already
existed in ancient times in Mesopotamia and Egypt. In the
past, the fermentation of cereals made it possible to preserve
the year’s harvest and the resulting beverage was nicknamed
«liquid bread». A word that resonates with Dominique. «In our
region, we call the chestnut tree the breadfruit tree, because we
use its flour to replace wheat». Chestnut will therefore be the
key ingredient of their beer, but there is no question of using
it only as a flavoring: mixed with the malt during the mashing
phase, chestnut flour will be a raw material in its own right in
the fermentation process. After months of trials, failures and
hard work, the two apprentice brewers finally found the perfect
dosage. For the name, it will be Pietra, in homage to the town
where Dominique grew up, Pietraserena, hamlet of hardly 50
souls, nested on a rocky promontory above the plain of Aléria.
They themselves put down their suitcases in Furiani, just above
the Acqua Bianca water table, south of Bastia. For several
months, they criss-crossed the markets and agricultural fairs
of the region to make people discover their little foam. And the
success is immediate. Despite its six degrees of alcohol, Pietra
does not have the heaviness of its Belgian competitors, «which
is hard to drink when it’s 40°», but still offers more character
than a simple blonde. A beer in the image of Corsica: soft and
powerful at the same time.

175

VISITE

AN ARTISANAL KNOW-HOW myrtle and juniper invade the nostrils from the very first sip
Today, the recipe for Pietra has remained unchanged. The and recall the wild vegetation of the Isle of Beauty. To meet the
production process has also remained unchanged, although ever-increasing demand, the Sialellis then developed Pietra
production has increased from 10,000 to 100,000 hectoliters per bionda, a lighter and less bitter version of the emblematic Pietra
year. The range has also expanded. «In the 2000s, we launched with chestnut flour, and Pietra Rossa, a beer with red fruits and
Serena, a pure malt blonde, without chestnut flour, lighter, more accents of morello cherry, blackberry and raspberry. «A few
refreshing, for the summer season,» says the owner. Then came years ago, we created the Pietra IPA and more recently an organic
the white Colomba, a mixture of barley and wheat, with citrus and gluten-free range,» lists the patriarch. «It took a year and a
notes and a vegetal smell. It too has its roots in the Corsican half to develop the Pietra IPA,» says Hugo Sialelli, the oldest son,
territory, since it is with the herbs of the scrubland that this now 30 years old and who has joined the family business. «It’s a
little moss with such particular scents is elaborated. «Every slightly lighter IPA, softer on the palate, with less bitterness and
time I go hiking in Corsica, I find that there is a characteristic more florality. The organic lineup includes a white, a blonde and
smell», says Dominique Sialelli, «Napoleon said that when you a session IPA, all gluten-free and top-fermented. The first one is
arrive in Corsica by boat, you smell the island before you see impregnated with the scents of Erba barona, the Corsican thyme,
it». It is therefore this smell that Dominique wanted to capture and Nepita, a kind of wild marjoram from the maquis; the second
in his white beer. «We wanted people, when they return to the one takes up the roundness of the chestnut flour, the brewery’s
mainland and uncork the bottle, to have the feeling of returning signature, and the last one honors the hops with aromatic notes
to the hinterland. This was a success, as the scent of arbutus, of peach and apricot.

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AGING IN WINE AND WHISKY BARRELS
The Pietra range includes a total of 15 beers. Some are only seasonal,
like the winter brew, made of Corsican barley and chestnut flour,
and enriched with orange peel and cinnamon from Madagascar.
«What interests us is not quantity, but quality,» Dominique Sialelli
emphasizes, «that’s why some beers are only released in limited
editions. The company manager also wants to promote local
craftsmen. Recently, he has formed a partnership with Babbone
Rossu, a manufacturer of Limonellu, a kind of alcohol-free limoncello
made with Corsican lemons. The result is a white beer, extremely
refreshing and sparkling, «it feels like eating a lemon meringue pie,»
smiles the son, Hugo. If the Sialellis can afford to produce ephemeral
beers, it is also because they now have two brewing rooms: the main
one with large stainless steel tanks and a fully automated bottling
conveyor belt, on which glass bottles clash in an endless ballet. And
a «pico brewery», as Hugo Sialelli calls it, adjoining its big sister,
where new mixtures are tested and beers are produced that will
only be released in a few thousand copies. «It allows us to work very
precisely on the recipes,» says the thirty-year-old, constantly looking
for new flavors. Behind him, imposing wooden barrels line the wall.
«These are aging barrels that have contained whiskey,» explains the
young man, «we are currently testing to age beer in them. Like wines
or spirits, the beer will capture the tannins and aromas trapped in
the wood. «The brews will stay six to eight months in the barrels, and
if we control the oxidation well, it can give very surprising things»,
Dominique adds. The Sialelli family also works with barrels from
local winegrowers, always with the idea of anchoring their craft beer
in the territory and spreading the Corsican identity.

Pietra Brewery
Route de La Marana, 20600 Furiani
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 30 14 70 - http://brasseriepietra.corsica

177

SAGA

THE REVIVAL OF A
CENTURY-OLD DRINK

Closely linked to Corsican history and heritage, Cap Corse Mattei is an emblematic Corsican aperitif
wine. Reflecting a whole era, that of the industrial revolution and the beginnings of advertising, this
emblematic drink of the Island of Beauty has known, for a few years, a revival of vitality. Taken over
by a quartet of island entrepreneurs, it is now part of the summer cocktails, with Spritz and Negroni

adorned with Mediterranean flavors.

Interview by Philippe and Sylvie Heullant - Text: Tatiana Geiselmann

178

© Rémy Cortin

Marble tables, a bunch of caned bistro chairs, a deck of cards Louis Napoleon Mattei developed an avant-garde iconography
and aperitif advertisements on the walls. These are the which increased the success of the drink tenfold: white letters
settings, recognizable among a thousand, of Marcel Pagnol’s circled in black with a refined typography standing out on a red
Marseille trilogy. If you pay close attention to the last opus, background and proclaiming the name of the brand loud and
César, released in 1936, you may notice these posters, hung clear. The logo was used on all everyday objects, carafes, glasses,
behind the drinkers sitting on the terrace: Cap Corse Mattei. ashtrays and metal posters. Taking a bottle with them in their
luggage, the Corsican workers exiled in the colonies made the
APERITIF WINE WITH CORSICAN FLAVORS drink known beyond the borders. The aperitif became a must
Emblematic drink of the Island of Beauty, the Cap Corse Mattei in French and international bars and cafés. In 1900, the recipe
was born under the impulse of a young visionary Cap Corsin, was rewarded at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, in 1908 in
Louis Napoleon Mattei. Originally from Ersa, a small village on the London, in 1910 in Brussels and in 1911 in Turin.
northern tip of the island, this wine merchant wished to highlight
the remarkable heritage of his native land. He therefore selected GOING BACK TO THE ROOT AND BACK TO THE SUCCESS
two local grape varieties: Muscat and Vermentinu. From the cold- The price of success, the Cap Corse Mattei is abundantly copied.
pressed grapes, he created a mistelle, a mixture of unfermented Over the years, it also falls into disuse, relegated to the closets
grape must and alcohol, which preserves the primary aromas and of grandmothers and neglected by young people. Threatened to
the sugar naturally present in the fruit; an ancient technique used disappear, the brand was taken over in 2017 by four Corsican
to produce Pineau des Charentes, Floc de Gascogne and Pommeau entrepreneurs, eager to revive the heritage of this mythical drink.
de Normandie. To enrich his drink and give it a bittersweet flavor, They plunged into the family and regional archives, unearthed
Louis Napoleon Mattei added a macerate of cinchona (a bark the original recipe and relaunched the production. Produced in a
native to Peru, once used as a remedy for malaria and fever, but traditional way from plants and spices rigorously selected from
soon left the cupboards of apothecaries to earn the zinc of coffee local and international producers, Cap Corse Mattei reconnects
shops), Corsican citron and a secret selection of local fruits, plants with its roots and finds a second youth. Rather than an aperitif
and exotic spices. The result is an aperitif wine with the smell of served dry, «on the rock», it can now be enjoyed as a cocktail.
candied fruits and slightly roasted flavors. Drizzled with sparkling muscatel and served chilled with a slice
of orange, it offers a perfect alternative to the Spritz; mixed with
AN AVANT-GARDE ICONOGRAPHY a frosted gin and Campari, it allows you to enjoy a Negroni in the
Praised for having medicinal virtues, Cap Corse Mattei quickly colors of Corsica. A must-have for the summer, to be enjoyed, of
conquered the hearts of the French. A fine communicator, course, with Nustrale pork ham and thinly sliced dry figatellu.

179

SAGA

A FLORILEGE
OF SPIRITS WITH THE
CORSICAN FLAVORS

Aperitif wines, liquors, gins

The House of L.N. Mattei draws on the riches of the Corsican soil to produce a wide
range of spirits. From the iconic recipes of the Mattei brand, the distillery offers today

a wide variety of mixtures, with the fruity flavors of the country.

Created from the merger of the Mavela estate (artisanal distillery
of Corsican whisky and exceptional spirits) and the Mattei
brand, L.N. Mattei combines the best of both companies: the
meticulous know-how of Mavela brandies and the iconic recipes
of the Mattei company. Located in the heart of the eastern plain
of Corsica, the distillery has taken up residence in the commune
of Aléria, within the Casabianda estate, a veritable green lung of
600 hectares, between vineyards, orchards and hundred-year-
old plane trees. To the east, the sea and its white sandy beaches,
to the west the steep mountain reliefs.

RED AND WHITE
Inside the pink plastered building, rows of bottles with black,
white and red labels are lined up: it is the iconic Cap Corse Mattei.
Composed of Corsican grape juice, from Muscat and Vermentinu
grapes, blended with macerations of cinchona peel, citron and
a secret mixture of 15 local and exotic plants and spices, this
is the brand’s emblem. A sweet and fruity aperitif wine, with
the smell of figs, a voluptuous and warm body and fine bitter
notes. For some years now, L.N. Mattei has also been making its
flagship drink in white. Enriched with citrus macerations, this
aperitif is slightly more bitter than its red cousin and plays on
the acidity of citrus fruits. At the end of mouth, we recognize
like a perfume of orange blossom. Served fresh with ice cubes,
it is also combined perfectly with the tonic, this carbonated
drink, itself containing cinchona. For those who like bitterness,
a Grande Réserve version has been added to the range, both
in white and in red. Composed of the same ingredients as the
original recipe, this spirit is distinguished by an aromatic profile
even more marked in bitterness and stronger in alcohol (17
degrees, against 15 degrees for the classic). Ideal for full-bodied
cocktails, short or long drink version.

180

© Rémy Cortin
© Rémy Cortin

CEDRAT, LEMON AND MYRTLE MATTEI CONCEPT STORE
The Mattei distillery’s know-how is not limited to the Cap Corse, Located in Bastia’s old town, the Mattei Concept Store is beautifully
however. Drawing on the riches of the local flora, the legendary
company also produces a small sample of liqueurs with local decorated by sculptor Ivo Borghesi. You will discover friezes of vine
flavors. The oldest is the liqueur Cédratine, elaborated in 1880
by Louis Napoléon Mattei from a blend of plant distillates and branches, large baskets sculpted in high relief as well as advertising bas-
a double distillation of Corsican citron. This small rustic citrus
fruit, halfway between lemon and grapefruit, makes it possible to reliefs representing in still life the products of Mattei establishments.
create a drink that is both sweet and spicy, mellow and acidic. The The interior fittings complete this neoclassical decor. As the only store
Myrttei liqueur, another recipe from the founder Mattei, draws its in Corsica to be listed as a historical monument, the store, which has
resources from the Corsican maquis. Available in white and red
versions, it is made from macerations and distillations of wild remained unchanged since the beginning, has recently become the
myrtle berries, harvested in the area. Poured into crushed ice, it is Mattei Concept Store. Featuring high ceilings, Lariciu pine flooring,
the perfect end to a meal in the shade of the parasols. Last creation and red wooden shelves filled with delicious products, the store is a
of the distillery, the Limoncellu Mattei honors the rich aromatic place steeped in history where Cap Mattei enthusiasts can enter the
palette of the yellow lemon of Corsica. The zest is macerated in
alcohol, accompanied by a few citrons and limes, then combined brand’s iconic world. For an immersion in history, the «museum»
with sugar and spring water, to produce a sweetly acidic liqueur.
To be tasted frosted, to wake up your taste buds. corner presents historical stills, accessories, vintage bottles... So many

GINS WITH CORSICAN FLAVORS elements that remind us that Louis Napoleon Mattei was a pioneer in
Anxious to adapt to the desires of the younger generation,
L.N. Mattei also launched last year the creation of gins with a communication. In line with the desire of its creator, the Mattei Concept
Mediterranean style. Two references have been created: L.N. Store offers a fine selection of the best gastronomic products: a cellar
Mattei Distilled Dry Gin, the result of the distillation of a selection with more than 700 references of exceptional wines, champagnes and
of citrus fruits (citrons, lemons) and plants from the maquis
(gentian, marjoram, etc.), and L’Immortel, a more powerful spirits from Corsica and around the world. It is also a delicatessen
and finer gin, to be drunk dry or with ice. In both cases, these
newcomers to the brand are prepared according to the rules of the ambassador of quality products with a pleasure offer built around rare
art: the various local plants and fruits are macerated before being or traditional tastes and flavors. Finally, it’s spaces where products
slowly distilled in a copper still, a production tool that allows the mixing art of living, fashion, design... To offer or to offer oneself.
preservation of the individual aromatic profile of each ingredient.
The result is a well-balanced gin with herbaceous notes and fresh A superb universe!
citrus aromas. A real dive into Corsica.
Distillerie LN Mattei siège Distillerie LN Mattei
et Mattei Concept Store U Licettu
15 bd du Général de Gaulle 20270 Aleria
20200 Bastia Phone: +33 (0)4 95 56 60 30
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 32 44 38 www.distilleriemattei.com

181

STOPOVER

HÔTEL DES GOUVERNEURS

IN THE HEART OF THE CITADEL

Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the 4-star Les Gouverneurs hotel in Bastia is ideally located to
enjoy the delights of the capital of Genoese Corsica. Built in the heart of the citadel, the establishment

offers 26 magnificent rooms with a soothing and enchanting
and bewitching decoration. Its high quality services, restaurant, wellness area and its heated indoor

swimming pool allow you to fully enjoy a relaxing stay.

By Philippe Heullant - Photos : Rémy Cortin

Simply cross the threshold of the Hotel des Gouverneurs to AN IDEAL SITUATION
understand that here, one comes to relax, in an enveloping and The Hotel des Gouverneurs, like the nearby Palace of the
hushed atmosphere. This unique place, a member of Small Luxury same name, enjoys an ideal location near the Old Port, the
Hotels of the World, is a blend of luxury and history. Nestled in market square and the Place Saint Nicolas. This prestigious
the impenetrable citadel of Bastia, Les Gouverneurs is intimate, establishment is a few minutes from the beaches and ten minutes
almost secret. Following two years of work with the support of from Bastia airport.
the city and the historical monuments, the establishment opened
its doors in 2015 and unveiled an innovative and delicate hotel, a SEA VIEW ROOMS
work of art that blends perfectly with the citadel’s environment. In a refined atmosphere, the hotel has 26 comfortable rooms,
Excellence, availability, attention to detail and authentic service... all with a sea view. All of the rooms are unique, with luxurious
All the ingredients are there for a suspended parenthesis in an furnishings, noble materials and a fine, uncluttered decor.
exceptional hotel that is a must-see. All the ingredients are there Classic, superior, junior suite and luxury suite, they are real
for a suspended parenthesis in an exceptional hotel that is a must- jewel cases integrating the codes of excellence. To match the
see. You will be carried away by the unique atmosphere of the high quality services of the establishment, the only 4-star hotel
citadel district, between history, art of living and splendor. in Bastia, a Biologique Recherche wellness area awaits you for an

182

invigorating stopover. The spa invites you to take a break from
everyday worries for a unique moment of well-being. Thanks to
the heated indoor pool, sauna and steam room, you can relax
and tone up in a soothing atmosphere. Adapted for both men
and women, Biologique Recherche customized face and body
treatments are also available. Take a moment just for you!

AN EXCELLENT RESTAURANT
On one of the most beautiful terraces of the city, with sight on
the sea and the city of Bastia you will be able to taste delicious
cocktails of the mixologist house. Cocktails with subtle
associations honoring the Corsican products. The terrace is the
ideal place to enjoy an excellent brunch that will surprise you
by its creativity and simplicity. At dinner time, you will discover
an original cuisine made only with seasonal and local products.
What to live an exceptional moment, out of time, on the roofs
of Bastia. If you are looking for a confidential and extremely
well located hotel, then the Hotel des Gouverneurs is the place
for you. You will be delighted by the welcome reserved by the
extremely professional staff !

Hôtel des Gouverneurs
3 bis rue des Turquines, 20200 Bastia
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 47 10 10
www.hoteldesgouverneurs.fr

ESCALE

ITINÉRAIRE © Jean Charles Marsilly

BASTIA
A City of Art and history

An ancient fortified city overlooking the azure waters of the with high ochre buildings, the Sainte-Marie cathedral and its
Mediterranean, Bastia is an ideal entry point to discover the extraordinary silver virgin, and the Governors’ Palace, today
charms of Corsica. Its polychrome houses, its rich historical transformed into the Bastia history museum. Going back down
heritage and its lively cultural life are worth the detour, to the Old arbor, you can take the monumental staircase of the
for a weekend or several days, before setting off to explore Romieu garden, with its vases, statues and fountains, and its
the preserved nature of the surroundings. A rejuvenating breathtaking view of the turquoise waters of the coast. At the foot
interlude, less than two hours by plane from the main of the stairs, you will be immersed in the authentic charm of the
European cities. old Bastia, with multicolored fishing boats alongside pleasure
boats returning from the open sea, all in a warm and welcoming
Perched on its rocky promontory facing the sea, Bastia is ideally atmosphere. Wandering through the narrow streets, you can
located between the sea and the mountains. To the east, the steep go up to the baroque church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the largest
relief of the Haute-Corse, its hillside villages and olive forests; to in Corsica, then walk through the alleys of the market to taste
the south, the tangle of vineyards and scrubland hit by sea spray; the regional specialities with a good taste of vacations, cheese
and to the north, the jagged coastline of the Cap Corse, wild and fritters, slices of coppa and canistrelli of all kinds. The last stop
preserved. A perfect starting point to explore the Island of Beauty. is Saint Nicolas square, the heart of the city, surrounded by palm
To reach this little jewel of the Mediterranean, nothing could be trees and middle-class buildings, where the ballet of waiters
simpler: Bastia is served by the second largest airport in Corsica, invites you to sit on a terrace to enjoy the sunshine and the many
located only 30 minutes from the city center and with more than events organized by the city, candidate for the European Capital
40 air links from the main European capitals. Thus, from Paris, of Culture 2028 label.
it takes less than two hours to reach the heart of the city and
discover the cobbled streets and colorful houses of the former THE ECONOMIC LUNG OF THE ISLAND OF BEAUTY
Genoese capital. A place of vacation and rest, Bastia is not a city that only beats to the
rhythm of the summer. The city’s dozens of hotels can accommodate
THE CORSICAN CULTURAL CAPITAL holidaymakers and business travelers throughout the year, with an
Once you arrive at your destination, the city is easily explored offer that can satisfy all tastes and budgets. The former Genoese city
on foot. In the upper part, the unavoidable Citadel, called Terra is a real economic powerhouse on the island of Beauty and a perfect
Nova, a medieval fortress of the XVth century sheltering several business destination. It has major assets for hosting seminars,
historical treasures, among which the Donjon square, lined congresses and conferences in prestigious settings.

184



EVENTS © Rémy Cortin Wine Fair
Luri - July 9 and 10
© JC AttardMEET NEW PEOPLE!
Olive fair
All year long and all over the island, hundreds of volunteers of the FFRAAC, © ODARC Montegrossu - July 16 and 17
Federation of Rural, Artisanal and Agricultural Fairs of Corsica, organize
events, fairs, shows, markets... to promote Corsican products Wood and forest festival
and to promote the island’s many skills. Here is the 2022 calendar. Vezzani - July 22, 23 and 24

186 Mountain Products Market
Riventosa - July 29

Aullene Fair
Aullène - July 30 and 31

Almond Fair
Aregno - August 6 and 7

Rural Tourism Fair
Filitosa - August 5, 6 and 7

Corsican knife festival
Cuttoli Corticchiato
August 12 and 13

Baracci Fair Water and
Health
Olmeto - August 12 and 13

Bread Fair
Lumio - August 15 and 16

Fig Festival
Plain of Peri
September 17th and 18th

European Heritage Days
Arghjusta Muriccio
September 17 and 18

The honey festival
Murzu - September 25

Chocolate fair
and Corsican delights
Bastia - October 1st to 31st

Chestnut Fair
Bocognano
December 9, 10 and 11

© 2022 - CONCEPTION SUNMADE.FR - SYLVAIN ALESSANDRI – ATC / MAX COQUARD – BESTJOBERS / SEBANADO - SUNMADE / ATTARD MIGLIACCI – ATC / ATC - CENITZ STUDIO / ADRIEN SALA – UNSPLASH / AL-ELMES - UNSPLASH

Je suis mille saveurs
à goûter

© 2022 - CONCEPTION SUNMADE.FR - PHOTOS : SYLVAIN ALESSANDRI – ATC / MAX COQUARD – BESTJOBERS / SEBANADO - SUNMADE / BRUNO SELLIER – MOTO REVUE / AL ELMES - UNSPLASH / ALEX BLAJAN - UNSPLASH / JULIUS KRIESE - UNSPLASH

Je suis mille voyages
à vivre toute l’année