MASTERCHEF 17 ANGLAIS

SEAFOOD
PRODUCTS

THE OYSTERS THE BEARS

In Corsica, oysters are raised in two ponds of the Eastern Often called the Mediterranean caviar, the sea urchin

Plain: the pond of Diana and the pond of Urbino. The first is a dish of choice that regularly appears on the tables
one is a unique and wild place located a few kilometers from of the greatest chefs. Cooked in a scramble or simply

Aléria where the oyster farmers develop a unique species raw, natural or with a zest of lemon juice, the sea
called the «Nustrale di Diana». The second is located between urchin delights the palate. The sea urchins of Corsica
Ghisonaccia and Aléria. The Corsican oyster, very fleshy, has a
can be mauve, brown, red or slightly green. The
very iodized taste. fishing of this protected species is regulated.

FISH THE LOBSTERS
The lobster has not disappeared in the Mediterranean
The island’s artisanal fishing is an ancestral activity. Fishing techniques but it is a threatened species and its fishing is highly
have changed a lot and many species of fish are caught at sea in Corsica. regulated. Lobsters must be fished deeper and deeper, at
According to the arrivals, you will be able to taste: sea bass, sea bream, depths of 50 to 500 meters and in areas as inaccessible
as the tip of Cape Corsica. The most common, the red
gilthead bream, bonito, grouper, meager, scorpion fish, Saint-Pierre, lobster called Royal, is the one found in most of the fish
dogfish, turbot, whiting, conger eel... We find many species in common tanks of Mediterranean restaurants. It is fished with a
net at a depth of 50 to 180 meters, most often from the
with the coasts of the continent. port of Centuri, a village on the water’s edge. This small
traditional and preserved port is famous for its lobster
fishing. More unusual, the pink lobster with white spots,
called Mauritanian lobster - although it is in fact local -

lives much deeper, between 200 and 500 meters.

49

TRENDS

INTER BIO CORSE

TO PROMOTE THE ORGANIC
FARMING DEVELOPMENT

Due to its geographical situation, Corsica is a land suitable for agriculture and more particularly
for organic farming. With more than 550 producers and nearly 30 000 hectares, organic farming in
Corsica is experiencing a strong development. The surfaces cultivated in organic farming have almost

tripled in five years. The association Inter Bio Corse works every day to support and promote this
type of agriculture. Meeting with Emilie Claudet, coordinator of the association.

By Aurélie Hallereau

Organic bakery L’Alta Spiga at San Giovanni di Moriani

Bathed at sunshine, the island of Beauty is a land that abounds in Of the 600 certified organic producers in the region, 200 are
riches. A very diversified range of animal and plant productions members of Inter Bio. The number of certified producers
is cultivated there: meat, cheese, honey, fruits and vegetables, continues to grow, as proof, «in 2019, the association has helped
wine, fruit juices, aromatic plants, dried fruits, jams and other about fifty farmers to go organic. A valuable help for producers,
processed products... To protect these flavors, structure and Inter Bio Corsica is the only organization for the organic
develop organic agriculture in Corsica, the association Inter Bio farming development in Corsica. Located in the heart of the
Corse was born in 1992 under the impetus of a group of certified eastern coast on the agronomic pole of San Giulianu, Interbio’s
organic farmers. «At the beginning, the association members missions are to develop and structure organic agriculture in
were all volunteers, in 1995 the association had one employee Corsica by preserving the soil, the environment and biodiversity.
and today there are eight of us working all over Corsica» explains «Concretely, we follow the producers who are already in organic
Emilie Claudet. agriculture, we accompany the young producers in reflection

50

Breeding of Paul Bianchi at Villanova MEETING

and the more conventional producers who wish to pass in PAUL BIANCHI
organic» explains Emilie Claudet. Inter Bio Corse provides
administrative and technical support for the conversion process Settled since 1995 in the commune of Villanova, about ten
but also develops more innovative organic and agronomic kilometers from Ajaccio, Paul Bianchi started cattle breeding
production techniques. For this, the association knows perfectly with passion on a 200-hectare farm that is 100% organic. On
well the offer, the demand, the markets, the regulations and his extensive farm, this farmer works in harmony with nature
their evolution. «We organize working committees to bring out to feed his cows which graze peacefully all day long facing the
structuring projects, we offer many training courses to producers sea. «I raise my livestock in total autonomy, my cows only eat
(25 courses were given in 2021) and we communicate on regional what I produce and especially the good grass of the scrubland.
organic products to conquer new markets always by promoting With the sea not far away, the cows and therefore the calves
short circuits and local distribution» she lists. All these actions benefit from a unique contribution which brings to their meat
stimulate the outlets on the French and international markets. a subtle and atypical taste» Paul modestly explains. If the
Every year, during the months of May and June, Inter Bio Corsica farm has naturally become organic, the certification imposes
organizes Bio in Festa with the farmers. The objective is to bring regular and strict controls from the farm to the cutting plant,
the consumer on the farms to discover the places of production including the slaughterhouse. «The cutting room is managed by
and thus create a link with the producers. my brother who is very passionate about this job» reveals the
owner. If the farmer delivers part of his products to restaurants
A COLLECTIVE BRAND TO PROMOTE CORSICAN in Ajaccio, he mainly offers direct sales to individuals and sells
ORGANIC PRODUCTS «BIO DI CORSICA» at the Ajaccio farmers’ market. «I love delivering directly to my
Alliance of tradition and modernity, the collective customers, it allows us to exchange ideas and to adapt to the
mark «Bio di Corsica» is the guarantee of the demand.
Corsican production organic quality.
SOME FIGURES
100% ORGANIC AND 100% CORSICAN The organic sector in Corsica counts today no less than 564
In Corsica, the farms are often small. Animal welfare being of organic producers (121 animal productions and 443 vegetable
primary importance, the animals are raised in the open air, productions) on a total surface of 31 397 hectares certified
their food is certified organic and for their care, the breeders
use alternative medicines. For the respect of the environment, organic. It ranks second at the national level in terms of
the species and the varieties are always adapted to the local percentage of organic UAA.
conditions, the grounds are respected and no chemical of Agence Bio 2020 figures.
synthesis is used. All the certified producers Bio di Corsica commit
themselves to respect the specifications of the certifications
IGP, AOP... They also commit themselves to produce and raise
varieties and local races, to use plants produced in Corsica and
to transform only raw materials produced in Corsica.

https://interbiocorse.org 51

MEETING

THE SUBTLE TASTE OF THE
CORSICAN SUCKLING LAMB

Strong of its pastoral tradition, Corsica makes us discover today one of its niche products
which remains rather unknown: the suckling lamb, the work result of passionate breeders.

By Valérie Donchez and Aurélie Hallereau

Too long confused with the traditional lamb, the Corsican suckling has always been a pillar of the island’s economy and is practiced
lamb is a delicious dish with tender meat that deserves to be throughout the island. «The sale of suckling lambs has always
rediscovered. In leg or in sausages, it knows how to surprise the been a consequence of milk production,» explains Sébastien Rossi.
sharpest palates by its tenderness. To discover this little-known
meat, the Masterchef team went to meet the chef Jean-Pierre CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CORSICAN SUCKLING LAMB
Cordoliani who puts the suckling lamb in the spotlight at L’Auberge Born and raised in Corsica, the Corsican suckling lamb is a product
Corse and three fascinating breeders Sébastien Rossi (GAEC de belonging to the category «white meat». Usually designated
Vignale), Philippe Campana and Jean-Laurent Massari (GAEC E «Agnellu», the Corsican suckling lamb sector has for some years
Belle Bone). «As far as the collective memory of Corsicans can been engaged in a double certification process IGP and Label
go back, the ewe and the sheep breeding appear as inescapable Rouge of the suckling lamb under the name: «Agnellu di Corsica».
wealth of Corsica», introduces Sébastien Rossi, breeder and «Exclusively fed with mother’s milk before being slaughtered
representative of the Corsican milk lamb sector. Sheep farming between 30 and 45 days for a weight between 6 and 10 kg

52

THE CORSICAN SHEEP INDUSTRY

SEEN BYTHREE PASSIONATE BREEDERS

«  If the Corsican suckling lamb
have a such a good quality,
it is because it is fed to the
udder of its mother,
in open air.  »

fatty and too strong in the mouth», explains Jean-Laurent Massari.
This is a misunderstanding of Corsican suckling lamb, which «has
a very tender meat that is not strong in taste,» says Sébastien
Rossi.

Sébastien Rossi and Philippe Campana A RESPECTABLE EXCELLENCE
«If Corsican milk lambs have many gustatory qualities, it is because
(carcass weight), the Corsican suckling lamb is a lamb coming they are fed at their mother’s udder with quality milk», explains
from Corsican ewes of dairy breed and not from ewes for meat», Philippe Campana. «My ewes and lambs live in freedom in many
explains Jean-Laurent Massari «If its small size does not always hectares of natural meadows. They spend all day outside and every
suit the restaurant owners, its taste is really worth the detour. day of the year. My ewes graze on different areas to constantly
A unique taste due to the fact that the Corsican suckling lamb is have good fresh grass and when I give them hay, it’s the hay I make
raised in the pastures, in open air with his mother,» says Sébastien myself,» adds the young breeder. It is thanks to a breeding method
Rossi before adding: «since it has not yet started to graze at the based on both the resources of a territory and the knowledge of
time of slaughter, the suckling lamb is a very good product that the shepherds that the Corsican milk lamb benefits from a high
still has its milk taste and its pink color. If this sheep meat was quality milk, rich in fat, proteins, vitamins and minerals, and that
once very popular with Corsicans, our two farmers know that it reveals a meat so tender and tasty. Corsican ewes are known for
the lamb has unfortunately been a little too neglected by many their robustness and their high milk production capacity. Their
consumers. «The Corsican suckling lamb is often considered too very fine limbs are adapted to long movements on difficult and
uneven grounds. Their udders, developed as «goat udders», make
them particularly easy to milk. «Small or large, the Corsican ewe
is a very good milk producer. Elegant, it is also distinguished by
its very fine head, its small ears and varied wool, black, red, white
and gray. Our ewes are adapted to our way of working, to the soils
and to the climate of Corsica « concludes Sébastien Rossi.

53

MEETING

Jean-Laurent Massari and Maria Petra

NEW LIFESTYLE HABITS THE MEAT POLE
«In the past, Corsican suckling lamb was eaten on every festive «When we began the dairy lamb development process, we realized
occasion,» says Sébastien Rossi. «Easter, Christmas... Every time the problems of adapting to customer demand, the problems of lack
there was a party, a meeting between friends, family reunion, of tools and know-how to develop the product. We set up a project
lamb was part of the meal,» recalls the breeder. Generally, the which is a meat pole. It is a slaughterhouse, a cutting workshop,
suckling lamb was eaten roasted and traditionally the offal was a processing workshop and also a specific sales area for «small
eaten on skewers cooked over a wood fire, wrapped in crépine ruminants», adapted to dairy lambs and goats. We are at the stage
and basted with a vinegar sauce. «At the time, lamb was sold as where we have to launch the management project.
a carcass because people knew how to cut it up and cook it. The
tradition has gradually been lost, consumer habits have changed, A PRODUCT THAT CAN BE EASILY COOKED ON A DAILY BASIS
families are smaller and cook less,» says the breeder. Smaller than the suckling lamb found on the mainland, the Corsican
suckling lamb is a light meat that is easy to eat. At around 15 euros
TOWARDS A REVALUATION OF THE CORSICAN SUCKLING per kilo, it is not very expensive. Easy to cook, it doesn’t require a
LAMB very long cooking time. «You can eat the chops plain with a little salt
The ILOCC (Interprofession Laitière Ovine Caprine Corse) works and pepper,» suggests Sébastien Rossi. «In a frying pan, on a plancha
daily to develop the Corsican milk lamb. «When we realized or over a wood fire, you will have a very good product. You will feel
that the consumer had changed and that he wanted to eat lamb the taste of the meat. You can cook the shoulders in the oven for
by offering a shoulder, a leg or a chop without being obliged to 45 minutes maximum. You can also marinate them with olive oil, a
consume a whole lamb, our group started to make the cut. We little salt, pepper, garlic and some herbs of Provence. Add one or two
make legs, mice, chops, shoulders... We also sell lamb very well glasses of rosé wine to cook and you will have, once again, a product
as minced steaks and sausages, which are particularly popular that is really delicious, very tender, with a subtle taste that makes it a
with young people,» explains Sébastien Rossi. To go further, the success with consumers.» Jean-Laurent Massari’s favorite recipe? A
group is also working on a PGI and Label Rouge certification. leg of lamb confited with honey and cooked in a casserole for 6 hours
«The Corsican suckling lamb is very specific and it must be in the oven. You can also discover it in an oriental version, a tajine of
properly promoted. The document is almost complete. What Corsican milk lamb with dried fruits. You can be sure that the suckling
we lack today to develop this quality meat, are good tools for milk lamb has not finished to amaze the youngsters’ papillae as well
processing and selling but we are working on it!» as the adults.

54

«  Corsican lamb is a product
that I particularly like to work

with as soon as the season
starts, in early spring.  »

THE CORSICAN
SUCKLING LAMB BY
CHEF JEAN-PIERRE

CORDOLIANI

Renowned for highlighting beautiful Corsican products, the L’Auberge Corse
Auberge Corse is the pride of Jean-Pierre Cordoliani. This cooking Mnt Saint-Roch
enthusiast had his first restaurant at age 20 before leaving to 20169 Bonifacio
travel the world and returning nourished by his experiences. In Phone: +33 (0)4 95 10 86 55
July 2013, he opened the Auberge Corse in Bonifacio with the https://laubergecorse.fr
firm intention of making his customers’ taste buds travel to the
most beautiful Corsican lands. For this, Jean-Pierre Cordoliani
does not hesitate to travel throughout the territory to find the
best products. To put the suckling lamb on his menu, he chose
to work with the group of shepherds of Saint Lorenzo. «I put
Corsican suckling lamb on the menu of my restaurant because
it is a traditional product of Corsican gastronomy. Moreover, I
love suckling lamb. At the restaurant, we cook it simply in the
oven, at low temperature, with wild myrtle. We also prepare it in
stretta sauce. These dishes are a real success. Customers come
back year after year to enjoy our suckling lamb.»

55

MEETING

WILD MYRTLE

LAMB SHOULDER

Ingredients for 4 people:
1 boneless lamb shoulder • 150 g of Corsican Panzetta • 1 onion • 2 garlic cloves • 20 g of chestnut flour • 30 g of tomato paste • 75 cl of full-bodied

red wine (Patrimonio) • 10 g of sugar • 1 thyme sprig • 1 rosemary sprig • 3 cl of olive oil • 3 pinches of salt • 3 turns of pepper mill
• For the garnish: 400 g of peeled chestnuts • 20 g of butter • Wild myrtle.
Preparation: 10 min / Cooking time: 2 h 30

Marinate your lamb in the wine overnight. The next day, cut the panzetta into small cubes.
Brown it in a casserole dish with the onion and garlic cloves. Add olive oil. Let it brown for at least 5 minutes. After having recovered the juices at
the bottom of the casserole, add the meat (reserve the marinade), the chestnut flour, the salt, the pepper, the thyme, the bay leaf and the rosemary.

Add the tomato paste, sugar and a sprig or two of wild myrtle that you will collect at the end of the cooking. Moisten with the wine from the
marinade. Simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Then cook the chestnuts in butter. Add them before serving.

56

Route de Lévie, 20100 Sartène - Phone: +33 (0)4 95 77 10 20 - www.domaine-fiumicicoli.com
Avenue Pierre de Bernardi, 20253 Patrimonio - Phone: +33 (0)6 10 05 01 13 - www.closdebernardi.com

MEETING

THE PIGS BREEDING
IN CORSICA AND

THE TRADITIONAL
SAUSAGES:

A SECULAR KNOW-HOW

True ancestral pastoral tradition, the pigs breeding in Corsica and the dry sausages which emanate from it,
enjoy a very strong notoriety. The traditional cured meats of Corsica have always been a victim of its success,

thus generating numerous counterfeits present on the island and the continent. Faced with this, it was
important and even urgent to have this traditional production recognized and protected, and consequently,

the breeding on course and the endemic race of Corsican pig. Here are all the tricks to avoid making mistakes!

Text: Aurélie Hallereau - Photos : Salameria Corsa

On the totality of the volume of pork meats sold on the island and Designation of Origin has proved fundamental. Initiated in 2000,
elsewhere, they are 140 breeders-processors to reproduce the this official recognition process was completed in 2014 with the
ancestral gestures which make the signature of the true Corsican protection of three emblematic pieces of Corsican charcuterie: the
pork meats. «Today, it can be estimated that 90% of the so-called
«Corsican» charcuterie is made from pork meat produced outside AOP «Jambon sec de Corse» or «Jambon sec de Corse - Prisuttu»,
the island’s production basin,» says Marc Poggi, Director of the
Union of Defense and Promotion of Corsican AOP charcuterie the AOP «Coppa de Corse» or «Coppa de Corse - Coppa di Corsica»
«Salameria Corsa. Faced with this alarming fact and the growing
number of counterfeit products, the protection by a Protected and the AOP «Lonzo de Corse» or «Lonzo de Corse - Lonzu». No risk

of confusion, the products coming from an authentic breeding of
pig of Corsican race (official name «nustrale») and transformed in
the rules of the art are all identified by a seal on which is affixed the
logo of the AOP and that of the Union of Defense and Promotion of

the Charcuteries of Corsica AOP «Salameria Corsa».

«Corsica is a land of pastoral tradition and the pedoclimatic
conditions are adapted to the manufacture conditions of saltings.
This is the reason why there have always been pig farms of the
Nustrale breed in Corsica, ranging from the small domestic farm of
two or three animals in the backyard, called «u porcu manarinu»,
to larger farms of up to sixty pigs, traditionally called «u porcu
di furestu», and raised on forest pastures by a pig keeper «u
purcaghju». But step by step, the way of raising the pigs, the use of
the endemic breed of pigs and the gestures as they have been done
for centuries have evolved. It was urgent to undertake a process
of safeguarding, recognition and protection of this breeding so
singular and constraining at the same time but which also makes
its strength and the typicity of the products which result from it.
Our mission is therefore to promote the know-how of the breeders,
their great respect for time, land and natural pastures, all of which
are marked by the seasons and climatic constraints» insists Marc
Poggi. No question of compromising, «for the breeders of Nustrale
pigs, time does not count. The Corsican pig is an animal that needs
time to grow and its traditional breeding method is unconditionally
linked to a geographical space, the land and the climate. «Guided
by the breeder, himself helped by «leading» sows, a herd evolves
outside all year long. Thus, the areas for «eating» (understood as

58

«courses»), watering and lying down can vary according to the Lonzu
season,» summarizes Marc Poggi. It takes an average of 18 months Coppa di Corsica

for the pigs to be of good quality and comply with AOP rules. During

this period, these pigs, with their dominant black and sometimes
gray coats, feed naturally on what they find on their natural paths
and/or those laid out by the farmer: grass, barley, acorns, chestnuts,

etc., under the watchful eye of the farmers. Marc Poggi calls them

«the guardians of tradition». «The pig is generally a real opportunist,
it eats everything it finds! That’s why it’s important to accompany
him and guide him on lands with natural and spontaneous forage

resources so that he can feed himself well. But unlike other pig
breeds, the «nustrale» pig lives in packs and has an «exploratory»
instinct. The quality of the meat, and therefore of the finished
product, depends on the way the pig is raised and the quality of its

food. But this implies a great mobility of the cattle and therefore
of those who take care of them,» he explains. The slaughter of the
Nustrale pigs has always taken place on the island and exclusively
in winter after a long finishing phase starting in autumn, during
which the animals explore and roam the chestnut and oak groves
to feed on acorns and chestnuts that have naturally fallen to the
ground. They love it! After the slaughter, the transformation of
the products is carried out in Corsica by the breeders themselves,

respecting a know-how transmitted from generation to generation.

«According to well-guarded ancestral methods, the products

are salted with dry sea salt by burying, without the use of other

preservatives such as nitrites or saltpeter, then matured in natural
ambient conditions for several months. For example, it takes an
average of two years to make a dry cured ham from Corsica AOP,

or almost four years if you add the time it takes to raise a pig,»

says Marc Poggi. This slow and meticulous transformation of the

meat gives birth to unique products with a deep red color. «Both

salty and sweet, the traditional Corsican AOP sausages reveal
intense and complex aromas, often with a nutty taste. The texture
is both firm and unctuous» reveals the enthusiast. According to the
tradition, it is necessary to know how to raise and to know how to

transform, two inseparable notions of the know-how to obtain the

sought-after typicity, the singularity, the marker of origin...

Today, the breeders are proud to propose three products of Corsican

pork-butchery under AOP. It is a considerable asset for them and a

guarantee of quality and authenticity for the consumers. Finally,
other traditional products such as dry sausage and figatellu, are the
subject of internal work for a future AOP recognition in the next few
years. Millennium, the breeding of pig nustrale takes its time. Quality,

animal welfare, respect for the environment and its sustainability

which is the basis of this breeding, respect for farmers, transmission
of tradition, all this is not improvised. «We fight every day so that the
Corsican pork-butchery does not lose its identity, and that also in the

interest of the consumers so that they know what they buy and what
they taste,» confides Marc Poggi.

Union of Defense and Promotion of Prisuttu

Corsican AOP sausages « Salameria Corsa »

Route du Vazziu - CS 90009, 20700 Ajaccio
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 21 64 28 - www.charcuteriedecorseaop.com

59

INTERVIEW

HÉLÈNE
BERETTI

« Our role is to make Corsica
an exemplary land for the

respect of the environment  »

Federating all the actors of Corsican agriculture, and the environment. We are also in the process of obtaining
accompanying farmers and promoting Corsican products HVE certification. This certification is very complementary to the
are the main missions of the Agriculture Chambers appellations: the appellation proves that the product is good and
of Corsica. Meeting with Hélène Beretti, Director General the HVE certification certifies all the practices of a farm. All this
of the Regional Agriculture Chamber of Corsica. explains why Corsican products can sometimes be a little more
expensive than others. Quality has to be paid for, but it has benefits
Interview by Philippe and Sylvie Heullant - Text: Aurélie Hallereau for health and the environment!

Can you tell us about agriculture in Corsica and give us the Can you introduce us Bienvenue à la Feme?
missions of the Corsican Agriculture Chamber? Bienvenue à la Ferme is a brand of the Agriculture Chambers
Corsica is an extremely rural territory, a «mountain island» that highlighting farmers who are committed to offering farm
has always been an agricultural land. Family farming has always products and cuisine based on local products, to offer their
existed and at one time, each family had its own hens for eggs, guests a personalized and professional welcome in a well-
its own cattle for milk, its own pig for cold cuts... The island has tended environment and to be ambassadors of sustainable and
inherited a strong tradition of family subsistence farming that responsible agriculture, representative of the land. All over France,
lasted until the post-war period. When the population moved more than 8,000 certified Bienvenue à la Ferme farmers are ready
from the countryside to the cities, the cultivation of the land to welcome you and help you discover their products and their
changed. This change was amplified in the sixties with the arrival passion for their work. Something to eat, sleep, discover and have
of the Algerian repatriates. Corsica had to adapt to the population fun with family, friends or groups. In Corsica, 80 members, ranging
increase. Agriculture went from a family agriculture to a production from camping to bed and breakfast or educational farms through
agriculture with the implementation of more professional means. the rural cottage, open their doors to tourists in all transparency.
Today, on the whole territory, agriculture is very different between In a preserved natural environment, «Eat farm and live farm» is
the plain and the mountain. Mountain agriculture is mainly the credo of the network members. Professionals who are part
concerned with sheep, cattle, goat and pig breeding; arboriculture of an authentic setting, rich in history, rural traditions and know-
with notably the cultivation of apples and chestnuts, olive growing how. Moreover, the addresses of the Bienvenue à la Ferme network
and citrus growing, without forgetting wine growing. In a territory are very complementary to those proposed by the Route des
like Corsica, we have today 16 production sectors, all based on Sens Authentiques. So do not hesitate to immerse yourself in the
quality. Indeed, when a territory grows from 300,000 inhabitants Corsican producers. It’s an opportunity to discover a heritage,
to more than 3 million in a very short period of time, the most to understand know-how, to share a profession for a day and
relevant choice from an economic point of view for the added value especially to taste good farm products!
of the territory is that of differentiation. Our distinction is quality.
As proof, out of the 16 production sectors, we have almost as many Agriculture & Territories
with PDO, PGI, Label Rouge certifications... To achieve such a level Regional Agriculture Chamber of Corsica
of quality, the Chambers of Agriculture help the sectors, producer Route du stade - Lieu dit Petraolu,
groups and individual producers to improve their technical skills 20215 Vescovato
and remain efficient. It is not enough to obtain the labels, they Phone: +33 (0)4 95 32 84 40
must be maintained. Through their technical teams and their https://Corse.chambres-agriculture.fr
investments, the Chambers of Agriculture are truly the linchpins
of the quality process. Our role is to accompany farmers through
technical advice and training. We work daily to make Corsica an
exemplary land in terms of practices that respect biodiversity

60

CAMPING AT THE FARM LE MANDRIALE FARM INN U SAMPOLU

Camping on a farm? What a good idea to discover an authentic Originally from the small village of Sampolo in the commune
way of life and exceptional products. André Angeletti, a cattle of Ghisoni, Pascal Fazi has always helped his father with the
breeder in organic farming, is delighted to have met the members family farm and the breeding of meat cows. «In 1987, when a
of the «Bienvenue à la ferme» network. It took him three years large hydroelectric dam project was being built in the area, my
to set up a campsite on his farm but he has no regrets. He did father decided to set up a restaurant to feed the many workers
everything with his own hands and signed the sustainable on site. The cuisine has always been made with products from
development charter to make his campsite a place where the farm and products from neighboring producers,» explains
people become aware of their environment. This shepherd’s the enthusiast. That’s how the U Sampolu Inn was born. Today,
son, who had initially embarked on an economic career, wanted it attracts as many tourists as locals. Located not far from Aléria
to pay tribute to his father by returning to the land. Today, his in Ghisoni in the region of the Costa Serena between the towns
greatest pleasure is to show his products and his know-how of Ghisonaccia and Ghisoni, the inn is a magical place bathed in
to the vacationers who come to stay in his campsite, classified greenery. In this haven of peace, you will be able to taste many
among the 10 best in Corsica. Each pitch has a breathtaking Corsican specialities such as the eggplant paysanne, charcuterie
view of the sea or the village. Those who know Le Mandriale and home made terrines or veal in sauce, grilled lamb or pig,
well ask to be installed on the heights of the farm where they farm chicken... «. All our dishes, from the starter to the dessert,
have a magnificent view of the surroundings. They also enjoy are home-made! Our Corsican cuisine is above all a family affair,»
being among the animals, the cattle, of course, but also the deer, emphasizes Pascal, who now produces his own vegetables, kiwis
llamas and watusis that stay in the park. Children can enjoy and clementines, and raises veal and ewes for meat. The inn is
feeding the chickens, goats and rabbits when they are not riding open every day for lunch and dinner in July and August. In May,
a donkey or a horse. All of these activities are free and lead to a June and September, it is open every day except Monday and
better understanding of life on the farm. Visitors can also admire Tuesday evening. Don’t hesitate to visit it for an authentic and
André’s magnificent vegetable garden and especially come and unique moment before or after a walk around the lake and along
taste the good food at his table d’hôte, which is open to both the numerous rivers of the surroundings.
camping and out-of-town guests. The customers are asking for
more. «Some come back every year. They are almost friends,» U Sampalu
says André. «There is a great conviviality in the campsite. That’s Lieu-dit Sampolu, 20227 Ghisoni
our success. To those who ask him how he manages a farm and a Phone: +33 (0)4 95 57 60 18 - www.auberge-u-sampolu.fr
campsite at the same time, he readily answers that it is a timeless
job. «The love of the job is really the strong point of our activity.
There is no time limit. I have the advantage today, thanks to this
formula, of making people discover the products that I grow. It’s
very rewarding.

Le Mandriale
Route de Lozzi, RD81, 20130 Cargèse
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 25 59 60 - www.lemandriale.com

For more information, please visit www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/corse 61

VINEYARDS

CORSICA WINE
PRODUCER

PASSIONATELY WINE

Corsican vineyards seem to be the most exotic and southern of the French vineyards.
A mountain in the Mediterranean sea, the island of Beauty offers a variety of natural
environments which, in turn, contribute to the originality and character of the wines. Corsica
has a multitude of climatic contrasts, geological paradoxes and ampelographic treasures. Let’s

go and discover this exceptional vineyard.

File directed by Sophie Mirande - Photos: Rémy Cortin

VINEYARDS

AN ISLAND OF BEAUTY,
A STRONG IDENTITY

Corsica is a mountain hemmed in by the sea, whose rocky PORTRAIT OF A VINEYARD WITH MULTIPLE FACETS
The terroir is defined by all the natural elements that characterise
framework combines microclimates, splits the relief, shapes the a vineyard: the nature of the soil, its exposure, the microclimate,

coastline, roots the scrubland and generates a multitude of soils the nature of the subsoil and the natural water regulation. The
types of soil have specific characteristics on the organoleptic
on which the native grape varieties like to grow. Its vineyards offer properties of the wines: siliceous soils favour delicacy, subtle
and floral notes; clay gives firm, powerful and alcohol-rich
nine major regions of Protected Designation of Origin and have an wines while limestone offers body and suppleness, bringing
mineral, floral and fruity notes. The geological substratum is
«Island of Beauty» PGI which covers all of the island’s wine-growing mainly granitic and schistose. Corsica is an ancient mountainous

areas. Winegrowing is increasingly oriented towards organic or massif with crystalline formations in the major part of the island,

biodynamic methods. Currently, more than eighty estates are in the west and south, as in Calvi, Figari, Porto-Vecchio and
AB certified (Agriculture Biologique = organic agriculture) or Sartène; and alpine in the north-east characterised by schistose
in conversion to organic agriculture. The diversity of the soils, formations, as in Cap Corse. As for the Eastern Coast, it is based

offers to the Vermentinu, Sciaccarellu and Niellucciu favourable on sedimentary formations from the Quaternary period. The

conditions for the growth and the maturity of their berries. The limestone formations prevail around Patrimonio. Four main

vines are protected by the sea breezes, which keep them healthy types of soil have developed: soils on arenised granite, soils on

and free from cryptogamic diseases. The extraordinary endemic calcareous schist or lustrous schist, clay-limestone soils and soils

grape varieties are replanted in many vineyards. Whether they developed on alluvium. The situations offer soils with a good

are grown alone or in combination, they bring character and water reserve, given the dry climatic context allowing for optimal
specificity to the blends, producing unique wines that accentuate
their island character. Passionate winemakers work to extract vegetative development of the vine. The diversity of the relief
the best from the land and the vine, producing unique ranges of
wines. To do this, they use winemaking techniques that appear to and the proximity of the sea create numerous mesoclimates. The
be the art of mastery and precision. They select parcels and chisel island has specific meteorological characteristics due to the sea,
micro-vintages, they engage in patient and refined maturation in the mountains and its latitude. The coastal areas, where most of
surprising containers, such as the «cigar» or the «wine-globe»,
the vineyards are located, receive pleasant temperatures for most
giving the wine subtle balance, generous volume and aromatic

complexity.

64

of the year, thanks to the maritime and mountain influences. The (Vin Sans Indication Géographique = Wines with no geographical
sea acts as a thermal regulator, in winter its temperature does indication). The Ile de Beauté PGI covers all of the island’s wine-
not fall below 12°C and helps to temper temperatures, while in growing areas. It allows winegrowers to produce more personal
summer, it generates refreshing and pleasant breezes. A very high
level of sunshine of 2,700 hours per year, as opposed to 90 days vintages, particularly for endemic grape varieties that are not
of rain, does not prevent very high or low temperatures, unusual yet included in the PDO specifications. The VSIG represent all
rainfall or violent gusts of wind of over 180 km/h. Mountains and the wines not classified as PDO or PGI. They are nonetheless
valleys create a mosaic of microclimates with cool night winds, qualitative. This approach is a choice made by the winegrower
which the northern and southern extremities of the island (Cap who does not wish to limit himself to the restrictions of the
Corse and Figari) do not experience. The highly varying altitude specifications.
of the vineyards (from 10 to 400 metres), their distance or
proximity to the sea and the local wind regime must also be taken A BRIEF REVIEW OF THE DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN IN CORSICA
into account. The influence of the sea is not always positive from In 1968, Patrimonio was the first island designation to be
a phytosanitary point of view, both because of the humidity and nationally recognised by the Controlled Designation of Origin. In
because of the salty winds. However, inland, the local winds are
conducive, as they clean up the crops and bring life-saving rains. 1972, it was followed by the Coteaux d’Ajaccio CDO and in 1973,
by the regional Vin de Corse CDO. Finally, the other five Corsican
NUMEROUS DESIGNATIONS INCLUDING NINE PDOS «Village» Calvi, Coteaux-du-Cap-Corse, Figari, Porto-Vecchio and
Corsica has nine Protected Designations of Origin, including Sartène CDO were added. On 2nd April 1976, a decree definitively
a regional Corsica PDO or Corsican wine, two «Cru» type confirmed the delimitation of the traditional vineyards and in
designations: Patrimonio PDO and Ajaccio PDO, five 1977 was created the UVACORSE, an association of associated
complementary geographical designations: Corsican «Village»
PDO or Corsican wine, Corse Porto-Vecchio PDO, Corse Figari wine growers. Eager to direct production towards the expression
PDO, Corse Sartène PDO, Corsican Corse Calvi PDO and Corse of an identity and a strong quality, it is firmly committed to a
Coteaux du Cap Corse PDO, as well as a «Vin Doux Naturel» policy of promoting Corsican wines. The Corsican PDO vineyard
designation: Muscat du Cap Corse PDO, which brings together
the terroirs of Patrimonio and those of Cap Corse. In addition to is a coastal vineyard and vines largely cover the outskirts of the
these nine PDOs, Corsica has an «Island of Beauty» PGI and VSIG
island. This maritime organisation of the production brings a

strong unity to the Corsican wine growing. The geographical area

of Patrimonio enclosed in the rocky setting of the Conca d’Oru

remains an exception. All the PDO areas are made up of 111 towns

in the departments of Upper Corsica and Southern Corsica.

CORSICAN VINEYARD
IN A FEW FIGURES

Total surface area:
5,750 hectares

2,800 hectares for 9 PDOs
2,905 hectares of vines

Production:
375,521 hectolitres
50 million bottles

17% red wine
13% dry and sweet white wines

Consumption:
35% in Corsica
45% in mainland France
20% for export

Sources: «L’Encyclopédie des Vins de Corse», Michel Dovaz, Chantal Lecouty, Steven Spurrier - Editions De Fallois. Paris 65

VINEYARDS

ZOOM ON THE NINE PDOS

THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE CORSE CALVI PDO VINEYARD

PDO since 1976 Area: 262 hectares THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE AJACCIO PDO VINEYARD
• Density: 4,000 vines/ha • Yield: 45 hl/ha
• Production: 8,826 hectolitres • Bottles: 1,2 million PDO since 1984 • Area: 248 hectares
• 43% red wine, 30% white wine, 27% rosé wine • Density: 4 000 vines/ha • Yield: 45 hl/ha
• Production : 8,150 hectolitres • Bottles: 1,1 million
• 11 winemakers • 58% red wine • 24% rosé wine • 18% white wine

GRAPE VARIETIES • 17 winegrowers
White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse),
GRAPE VARIETIES
Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse),
Red grape varieties: Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciaccarellu, Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc (Rossula)
Red grape varieties: Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Barbarossa, Aleatico,
Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Carignan, Carcaghjolu Neru, Minustellu, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan
Aleatico, Carcaghjolu Neru and Minustellu
WINE PROFILE
WINE PROFILE Whites: elegant, dominated by Vermentinu which gives the
Whites: dry, very typical from Vermentinu, very aromatic, citrus
citrus, mineral and floral notes.
and fruity notes of beautiful freshness. Rosés : mainly composed of Sciaccarellu and Grenache. Very
Rosés: renowned for their bright, pale pink hue, the Gris
de Calvi are lively and fruity with notes of minerality and red berries. fruity with mineral and spicy notes.
Reds: structured with a strong character. Depending on the Reds: characterised by Sciaccarellu, the traditional CDO grape
vinification process, the wines are very different, they can variety. It gives the wines a light and fruity character, with spicy
become very full-bodied as soon as the maceration is prolonged.
and mineral aromas.
THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE CORSICAN PDO VINEYARD
THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE FIGARI PDO VINEYARD
PDO since 1976 Area: 1,462 hectares
• Density: 4,000 vines/ha • Yield: 50 hl/ha PDO since 1976 Area: 143 hectares
• Production: 69,104 hectolitres • Bottles: 9,2 million • Density: 4,000 vines/ha • Yield: 45 hl/ha
• 14% red wine, 10% white wine, 76% rosé wine • Production: 5,945 hectolitres • Bottles: 790,000
• 26 winegrowers including 4 cooperative wineries • 53% red wine, 30% rosé wine, 17% white wine

GRAPE VARIETIES • 9 winegrowers
White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse),
GRAPE VARIETIES
Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse),
Red grape varieties: Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Grenache,
Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Carignan, Aleatico, Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc
Red grape varieties: Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciaccarellu
Carcaghjolu Neru, Minustellu Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Cari-gnan, Aleatico,

WINE PROFILE Carcaghjolu Neru et Minustellu.
Whites: balanced, lively, fine with floral and citrus notes.
Rosés : strong fruity aromas, pale and brilliant hues, nervous WINE PROFILE
Whites: fine and balanced, aromatic, expressive, full-bodied,
or bodied, sapid with saline notes.
Reds: supple and balanced, very wide range according to the with a beautiful minerality.
dominant grape varieties, medium ageing, they are made from Rosés : very varied, colourful, fruity, generous, harmonious.

blends of Niellucciu, Syrah and Grenache. Reds: intense chromatic hues, opulent, fruity, spicy, with
substance and body.

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THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE CORSE COTEAUX THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE PATRIMONIO PDO VINEYARD
DU CAP CORSE PDO VINEYARD
PDO since 1968 Area: 403 hectares • Density: 4,000 vines/ha
PDO since 1976 Area: 32 hectares • Density: 4,000 vines/ha • Yield: 50 hl/ha • Production: 14,692 hectolitres
• Yield: 45 hl/ha • Production: 959 hectolitres
• Bottles: 1,9 million • 42% red wine, 33% rosé wine,
• Bottles: 128,000 • 54% white wine, 23% rosé wine, 25% white wine • 39 winegrowers
23% red wine • 5 winegrowers
GRAPE VARIETIES
GRAPE VARIETIES White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse)
White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse), Red grape varieties: Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciaccarellu

Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc WINE PROFILE
Red grape varieties: Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciaccarellu, Whites: very nice white wines, very fruity, bodied and fat,
Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Carignan, Aleatico, which can be aged for a long time depending on the vinification

Carcaghjolu Neru. process.
Rosés : light, fresh, full-bodied and fruity.
Reds: full-bodied wines, often with high alcohol levels (over
13%) and with present but supple tannins. Medium to long

ageing wines.

WINE PROFILE THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE SARTENE PDO VINEYARD
Whites: crystal clear, aromatic, fine and elegant, nice minerality,
PDO since 1976 Area: 245 hectares • Density: 4,000 vines/ha
freshness, great aging potential thanks to the terroir. • Yield: 45 hl/ha • Production: 10,030 hectolitres
Rosés : pleasant, fruity, fine and expressive wines.
• Bottles: 1,3 million • 51% red wine, 29% white wine,
Reds: powerful aromas, silky tannins, generous volume. 20% rosé wine • 8 winegrowers

Suitable for medium aging.

THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE CORSE GRAPE VARIETIES
PORTO-VECCHIO PDO VINEYARD White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse),

PDO since 1976 Area: 90 hectares • Density: 4,000 vines/ha Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc
• Yield: 45 hl/ha • Production: 2,914 hectolitres Red grape varieties: Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Grenache,
Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Cari-gnan, Aleatico,
• Bottles: 385,000 • 41% red wine, 36% rosé wine,
23% white wine • 4 winegrowers Carcaghjolu Neru et Minustellu

GRAPE VARIETIES WINE PROFILE
White grape varieties: Vermentinu (Malvoisie de Corse), Whites: dominated by Vermentinu, light, fruity, generous.
Rosés : very variable, fresh, red fruits and spices flavour,
Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese, Ugni Blanc
Red grape varieties: Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Grenache, chromatic hues.
Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Barbarossa, Syrah, Carignan, Aleatico, Reds: very variable, deep ruby, with a predominance
of Sciaccarellu and Syrah, nice aromatic complexity, texture
Carcaghjolu Neru et Minustellu.
and volume..
WINE PROFILE
Whites: expressive citrus and mineral notes, white flowers, THE MAIN ELEMENTS OF THE MUSCAT DU CAP
CORSE PDO VINEYARD
vegetal notes.
Rosés : bright, floral nose, pleasant, nice vivacity. PDO since 1997 • Area: 39 hectares • Density: 4,000 vines/ha
Reds: depending on the dominant grape variety • Yield: 30 hl/ha • Production: 489 hectolitres • Bottles: 65,000
Sciaccarello: fairly light wines, spicy, fine tannins, fruity and
juicy. Nielluccio: dark wines, animal nose, red fruits, supple • 100% Muscat • 28 winegrowers

tannins, substance. GRAPE VARIETIES
White grape varieties: Muscat à petits grains.

WINE PROFILE

Whites: very aromatic natural sweet wines, color ranging

from light gold to light amber, rich and very complex, charming,
full-bodied, floral, fruity, candied, honeyed...

Suave and greedy, they are classified among the best Muscats

in the world.

67

VINEYARDS

ENDEMIC GRAPE VARIETIES,
A REAL TREASURE

Between PDO grape varieties, PGI grape varieties and those being studied without any designation, the ampelographic
characteristics offer their differences. Let’s get aware of the diversity and richness of island wines.

AT THE FOREFRONT OF WINEGROWING GENETIC ANALYSIS VERMENTINU
The CRVI (Centre de Recherche Vitivinicole Insulaire = Island Wine Originally, this grape variety was traditionally grown throughout
Research Centre) is an association under the French law of 1901, Corsica. It is certainly the most valuable white grape variety in
created in 1982, whose Board of Directors is made up exclusively Corsica and the Mediterranean vineyards. It produces top-of-the-
range white wines, pale yellow with green reflections, with an
of winegrowers from all over the island. It is a research structure elegant and complex nose where notes of white flowers (hawthorn,
applied to the island’s vineyards. Unique in its kind, independent, acacia), yellow flowers (broom) mingle with those of white fruits
multidisciplinary, it covers all the vitivinicultural themes, from the (pear, apple, quince), dried fruits (almond), citrus fruits and exotic
fruits. On the palate, they are perfectly balanced, ample and lasting,
vine to the wine. Its aim is to accompany the Corsican vineyard on sometimes with a mineral touch. It is an eclectic grape variety that
the road to quality and typicality. The primary and historic mission of can explore many different winemaking routes and produce very
the CRVI was, at the end of the 1970s, to restore the genetic heritage different styles of wine (wood, concrete egg, residual sugars).

of wine, in order to provide winegrowers with selected and healthy BIANCU GENTILE
Originally, it was grown in South Corsica in the Sartène region. It
plants of Corsican grape varieties necessary for the reconstitution is part of the Island of Beauty (except Patrimonio) PDO and PGI
grape varieties. It produces pale yellow wines with green or even
of the island vineyard. The wine industry is working tirelessly to golden yellow highlights. Their aromatic palette is wide and varies
according to the stage of maturity of the grapes: grapefruit, exotic
enhance the value of products with a strong identity in order to fruits, fresh and dried apricots, candied orange, flowers and white
fruits, honey, mineral notes... All these aromas contribute to give
become more competitive. Thus, in 2009, the work of the CRVI led

professionals to introduce the six local grape varieties: Aleaticu,

Minustellu, Carcaghjolu Neru, Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Genovese,
into the new CDO specifications, with a view to their recognition as
PDOs. As a result, the family of leading grape varieties has grown,

with Vermentinu, Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu now sharing the

starring role in the PDO identity with their noble root-stock cousins.

68

Biancu Gentile wines beautiful expressions. Taste examination ALEATICU
reveals body and length, good balance and freshness. It is a variety This grape variety has been present in Corsica for a long time, mainly
that lends itself well to various winemaking itineraries to achieve in Patrimonio, Cap Corse and Côte Orientale. In its best expression, this
many different wine styles (wood, concrete egg, residual sugars...). variety gives birth to dark red wines whose aromas are both exuberant
and original: the dominant flavour is of the «muscat, rose, lychee»
GENOVESE type. There is a certain harmony on the palate with a light structure
Genovese is part of the Island of Beauty (except Patrimonio) PDO supported by a good balance. In blending, Aleaticu will bring notes
and PGI grape varieties. Originally, it was grown in Upper Corsica that strengthen the singularity of the final product but may surprise
(Nebbiu, Balagne and Cap Corse). The wines made from Genovese by their floral and muscatel character. The natural acidity of this grape
are pale yellow with green reflections, their nose is very pleasant variety and the power of its aromas make it a good candidate for the
without being too overpowering. They flavour is reminiscent of production of sweet red wines. When vinified as a rosé, Aleaticu brings
flowers, white fruits and citrus fruits. On the palate, they can be an unexpected expression to the blending process with «lychee» and
tense and firm, with good balance, fatness, body, concentration and «rose» type aromas, or even dried flowers.
great length. Genovese has a high alcoholic potential.
MINUSTELLU
CODIVARTA Originally, it was grown in southern Corsica (Sartène and Ajaccio).
Originally, it was grown in Cap Corse. This grape variety produces The wines made from Minustellu are very colourful, a beautiful deep
light yellow wines with pale green highlights. Their nose is not red like a black cherry with violet reflections, their nose is expressive
very exuberant but the aromas are rather fine, like flowers and without being exuberant, typical of black fruits (blackberry, blueberry),
white fruits with sometimes citrus notes. On the palate, they can small red fruits (cherry), dried fruits (almond) with light spicy or even
sometimes lack acidity and seem a little flat. balsamic (mint) or empyreumatic (cocoa) notes and sometimes floral
(violet). On the palate, after a nice first impression in the mouth, they
NIELLUCCIU have substance, the tannins are present but they are supple and silky.
Originally it was grown mainly in Patrimonio, and locally in Balagne, This grape variety can be used pure or blended. It will then reinforce
Côte Orientale, Cap Corse and Porto-Vecchio. Niellucciu is the the structure of the Sciaccarellu and round out that of the Niellucciu
main grape variety of Corsica and particularly of the Patrimonio without its aromas modifying their typicality. The resulting wine is
designation where it reigns supreme. The wines produced are «deep pleasant, expressive and balanced. In rosé, Minustellu will produce
red» in colour and have a rich aromatic palette: small black fruits musts whose lively, deep colour can «enhance» some juices that are
(blackcurrant, blackberry), red fruits (raspberry, strawberry), dry too pale. Unblended, it can seem slightly vinous.
fruits (hazelnut and grilled almond), woody notes, empyreumatic
notes (coffee, cocoa, etc.), even balsamic notes (mint, liquorice). If CRACAGHJOLU NERU
the terroir allows a good expression of polyphenolic maturity, the It was originally grown in the extreme south of the island. The wines
wines are full-bodied, concentrated, robust and can afford to last made from Carcaghjolu Neru are coloured, of a fairly deep garnet
for several years without failing. The rosé wines from Niellucciu are red, quite aromatic with notes of red and black fruit (blackcurrant),
noteworthy for the liveliness of the fruity notes (small red fruits, slightly spicy and a vegetal character reminiscent of laurel but also
strawberries, redcurrants, etc.) and the sweetness of the spicy notes of undergrowth. On the palate, these wines of character have tannins
(cinnamon). On the palate, they are lively, sometimes even firm, that can sometimes seem a little rustic on rich soils, but without
and, depending on the conditions of production, the richness of the being rough. The phenolic maturity seems to have been reached for a
polyphenols makes it possible to obtain light or vinous wines, either saccharimetric richness equal to 12%. Vinified as a rosé, Carcaghjolu
light pink or more coloured. Neru produces slightly vinous wines, with notes of blond caramel and
even some rather singular notes of camphor.

SCIACCARELLU MUSCAT À PETITS GRAINS
It is traditionally grown throughout Corsica (Balagne, Cap Corse,
Sciaccarellu is mainly found in the south of the island. This black Côte Orientale, Sartène region). In Corsica, it is called Uva Muscatélla,
Muscadélla, Moscatélla. This grape variety is used to make dry white
grape variety is the symbol of the great originality of Corsican wines.
wines, natural sweet wines and sparkling wines. It can also be used in
It has an exceptional aromatic dimension: pepper, blackcurrant, blends (with a small percentage) to bring aromatic nuances to neutral
cherry, liquorice, smoke, cinnamon, leather, raspberry, orange,
caramel, etc. These unique wines are cherry to ruby red in colour, wines. Muscat à petits grains blanc has a high sugar potential with a
their structure is light and elegant, and their mouth feel is suave good balance of acidity and an intense, powerful and delicate flavour.
with great aromatic power. The taster will find both length and
complexity. In the rosé, notes of red fruit, exotic fruit, flowers and Muscat à petits grains is characterised by its varietal muscat aromas:
spices combine to form a bouquet of unrivalled delicacy. On the
palate, the balance is particularly interesting: the wines are fresh, i.e. rosewood and lychee. They guide the fruity notes, citrus, exotic
smooth and fine. Generally poor in colour, it nevertheless retains fruits, floral aromas, honey, stewed fruits, candied fruits, almonds,
a good acidity which gives its natural pale pink to salmon colour on infusion plant notes, verbena and lemongrass. The technique

a straightforward and attractive character. Sciaccarellu is used in of passerillage and desiccation on lauzes in the sun offers another
profile of sweet wine by bringing more aromatic concentration, colour,
blends but also produces elegant single-variety wines.
intensity and fullness, while keeping a certain freshness.

69

VINEYARDS

THE PASSIONATE
WINEMAKERS EXPERTS

Four different forms of agriculture coexist and have an impact on our era and our way of life. Let’s consider
their purposes in order to make a conscious choice regarding the winegrowing method.

CONVENTIONAL VITICULTURE «In 2021, 47 wine growing properties
Conventional agriculture emerged as a result of the industrial will have the Agriculture Biologique
revolution, in order to create monocultures such as viticulture. This (= Organic Agriculture) label and
research focused on increasing productivity and favoured the use
of inputs such as synthetic fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides. 17 will be in conversion».
However, as the soil was considered at that time as a mere support for
producers, this resulted in soil impoverishment, leading to a search ORGANIC VITICULTURE
for alternatives such as integrated or even organic viticulture. It is in Organic farming, regulated in Europe since 2007, is based on
the 1990s that the concept of sustainable agriculture was born. respect for natural balances. It excludes the use of synthetic
chemicals and GMOs and limits the use of inputs. In the context
INTEGRATED VITICULTURE of organic viticulture, winegrowers only use products that are
For some winegrowers, integrated viticulture is a first step towards free of synthetic organic molecules. Organic farming does not
organic viticulture. According to the law, integrated viticulture was ban inputs, but allows products of natural and organic origin to
introduced in 2002 and is a method of encouraging winegrowers to protect the plant from diseases, such as sulphur and copper. Raw
reduce the use of pesticides in order to use phytosanitary products materials of natural origin are used in order to preserve the life
to treat the vines only when necessary. This makes it possible to of the soils and the sustainability of animal and plant species
meet the criteria of sustainable development. It can include the that favour the natural ecosystem. Organic winemaking was
«Haute Valeur Environnementale» («High Environmental Value») only made official in July 2010. An organic wine is only labelled
certification, which aims to develop sustainable production and if the regulations relating to the cultivation of the grapes and
consumption. the vinification process have been respected. In conclusion,
the winegrower involved in this process must go through a
«In 2021, 46.46% of the vineyards are conversion phase into Organic Agriculture, certified by an
engaged in sustainable viticulture» independent body. After certification, he is obliged to wait three
years before applying the label.

70

BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE THE VINEYARD FACING CLIMATE CHANGE
Biodynamic viticulture is derived from the theories of the In 2017 and 2021, Corsica experienced two of the driest vintages
Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) and is based of the 21st century. In order to adapt to weather changes, the
on the statements of several winegrowers and merchants CRVI has included its programme in the national winegrowing
concerning the loss of quality of their wines and the lack of strategy for adaptation to climate change. To do this, it is
biological activity in their soils, due to excessive pressure experimenting with numerous scientific and cultural solutions,
from conventional viticulture. Biodynamic viticulture aims to in collaboration with the winegrowers. A major study of the
bring biological life back to the vineyard and connect it to its entire territory of Corsica was launched last April to enable the
environment. Herbicides are banned, and vegetation grows simultaneous analysis of precise indicators. The CRVI has criss-
freely between the rows of vines. Natural fertilisers are made crossed all the denominations of the island’s vineyards with
from animal droppings, which are then introduced into buried twenty connected weather stations. The precious data, open air
cow horns, to be dynamised later with water and then applied temperature, temperature under shelter, air humidity, rainfall,
to the vineyard. Problems, such as fertilisation, pest and sunshine and wind speed and gusts, will be used to predict the
disease treatment, are treated with composts and biodynamic impact of climatic evolution. They will be used, on the one hand,
preparations numbered 500 to 508, composed of medicinal to supply the tools for phytosanitary forecasts and, on the other
plants, minerals and organic matters. Their aim is to revitalise hand, to complete the analysis of the elements inherent to the
the soil and strengthen the crops. Each treatment is applied in «Corsican Terroir».
homeopathic doses and strictly follows the biodynamic calendar
of Maria Thun (1922-2012), a pioneer of biodynamic gardening WHICH ARE THE CONSEQUENCES FOR THE VINES
and in the use of cosmic and lunar rhythms, which designates AND THE GRAPES?
the ideal days and times for planting, pruning, harvesting... In Climate change takes place on three climate levels. The
conclusion, biodynamics stimulates the life of the soil, the plants’ Macroclimate which reigns over the region, the Mesoclimate
immunity and coexists with all living beings. The fight against which is observed over a few hundred square metres and the
weeds is done by sowing others, fertilisation and treatments Microclimate which is located between rows of vines. Climatic
are organised around biodynamic preparations, according to modifications severely damage the vines. Winter frosts at -18°C,
the astral calendar and the position of the planets. It results summers at +42°C that scald or roast the grapes, hydric stress that
from the synergy between organic agriculture, permaculture, blocks growth and defoliates the vines, nights that are less and
prophylactic activities and cosmic influences. less cool, hydric deficit multiplied by two during the day and the
increase in evapotranspiration, modify the terroir and phenology.
«In 2021, 8 vineyards are in The effects are quickly visible and devastating. Depending on the
Biodynamic viticulture, i.e. less stage of ripening, we observe poor root development, too short vine
shoots, small yellowing leaves, apical mortality, wilting of berries,
than 6% of the farms» premature leaf fall and increased stress on the plant material,
which is highly vulnerable to mildew attacks... As for the grapes,
BIG-HEARTED MEN AND WOMEN AT THE HEART agronomists have noted a 1.8% drop in the weight of berries at
OF THE VINEYARD ripening from 1995 to 2017. Ripening is earlier but chlorophyll
The wine industry is aware, responsible and committed to activity is down with a trend towards technological precocity
respecting the natural balance of the terroirs and climates, (overall maturity). The concentration of sugars during ripening
and to preserving the soil and the grape varieties. It is striving is increasing and the composition of ripening grapes is becoming
to improve the energy efficiency of the vineyards and refuses more variable.
polluting cultivation methods. It wishes to bequeath to future
generations a healthy, living and fertile land. Today, Corsica is one WHAT TO DO IN THE VINEYARD?
hundred percent «agroecological» in its ethical, economic and Help the vine to adapt, by improving the efficiency of rainfall, reducing
social aspects. Moreover, the cultivation of the ampelographic runoff, favouring penetration through the porosity of the soil,
heritage offers a fascinating «vinodiversity» for marketing, as developing the root system, reducing transpiration and leaf volume.
it allows the production of new products, the preservation of The soil should be enriched with humus, individual composting
their quality and the prospecting of international markets. It or green waste. It should be worked regularly and decompacted
is particularly respected and tested by the careful and patient mechanically or biologically with grass or cruciferous seedlings. To
winegrower, who knows how to reveal the purest wines with the avoid erosion and preserve the environment, the solution lies in the
most noble expressions from his land. In Corsica, the notion of green covering of the vineyard. It favours deep rooting, increases the
Terroir is an obvious one! soil structure, develops organic matter, increases biological activity,
offers more bearing capacity and regulates the water supply of the
plants. Mulch (organic plant mulch placed at the foot of the vines)
fertilises the soil and keeps self-propagating plants away.

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VINEYARDS

Limiting runoff on a terroir scale for limiting wilting in the case of hot, dry vintages, as well as the
The hydraulic layout of the vineyard is concerned with the impact on yield and wine quality. His studies focus on several
creation of retention basins, carrier drains, earth-filled pit areas: the first one, on 30% or 50%-woven shading nets to
drains, stream channelling, «collecting» gullies, water collection
ponds at the bottom of the slope or even runoff deflectors. protect the bunches and foliage from excessive exposure to the
Fertirrigation solutions are adapted to the cultivation projects. sun; the second one, on vine cultivation, with late pruning to try
The pumping systems, the filtration and the automation of
the water cascade processes and the pressure regulation are to delay the cycle and thus postpone the ripening of the grapes to
adjusted to the heterogeneity and pedological complexity of the a cooler period; the third one, which improves the microclimate
plots. of the bunches by increasing the shading of the foliage; the

Promoting atmospheric cooling and biodiversity fourth one, on the trimming at mid-veraison in order to limit the
Hedges or wooded strips act as windbreaks and protect against
erosion. Agroforestry respects the environment, refreshes the loss of water through evapotranspiration and the accumulation
atmosphere and protects biodiversity. Tits, bats and insects of photosynthesis; the fifth one focuses on the soil by testing the
repopulate the natural habitat, while the biostimulants provided
by the decomposition of the plants and the activity of the biotope effectiveness of compressed hemp mulching under the vine row
promote the deep root development of the vine plants. in order to conserve humidity and limit weeds; the sixth one on
isohydric and anisohydric measures (plant evapotranspiration of
grape varieties), sensitivity to drought and diseases and, finally,

the seventh one concentrates on grape varieties that are more

resistant to frost and stress, including late maturing identity

grape varieties, not yet included in the official catalogue.

Adapting vine management To conclude, Corsican winegrowers are preparing for a hotter,
The foliage management is essential to protect the vine, reduce drier climate, sudden changes in temperature, and the increasing
transpiration and favour the shading of the grapes and the soil, scarcity of water resources. They are working to moderate the
while trying to maintain a microclimate at the level of the organs impact of these changes on the life of the vine and are tending
of the vine. It is worth noting that goblet pruning facilitates to mitigate the modification of the berries’ composition. At the
photosynthesis and protects the soil. We note that moving the same time, oenologists are directing their research towards new
trunks upwards reduces the reflection of the soil, and we tend aromatic balances, adapting the stages of vinification to the
to favour spreading out to shelter and aerate the grapes and development of the wines of 2050.
the soil from exposure to the sun. For the past two years, Gilles
Salva, Director of the plant division, vineyard and plant material The Corsican vineyard offers its generous nature, its range
management strategy at the CRVI, has been conducting a trial of terroirs and its authentic wines to those who know how
on the emblematic Sciaccarellu grape and climate change at the to appreciate them. We went to meet nine characterful
Domaine Alzipratu, in Balagne. He proposes to study the levers winegrowers. See you at the vineyards!

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«When we took over the Palazzu,
we wanted to make this magical
place a place for sharing, a reflection
of our values», explains Petru-
Battista Rezzi, manager of the place.
Immersed in the history of an old
18th century building, a former oil
press, the visitor discovers a high
quality gastronomy that is part of a
global approach based on in a global
approach based on direct circuit
and self-production. This is a unique
place to discover the sweet and
savoury cuisine of chef Petru-Celinu

Hamon.

Restaurant U Palazzu - Village de Pigna, 20220 Pigna - Phone: +33(0)4 95 47 32 78 - www.hotel-corse-palazzu.com

Route de Zilia, 20214 Zilia - Phone: +33(0)4 95 62 75 47 - www.domaine-alzipratu.com

WINEGROWING EVASION
BALAGNE

CLOS CULOMBU

A FAMILY COMMITMENT
SERVING THE LAND

Located in the bay of Calvi between Lumio and Montegrosso, the Clos Culombu vineyard is just a stone’s throw
from the sea. A dirt road, lined with vines, leads to the linear and refined cellar made of wood and concrete.
This is an impressive cellar amidst collections of grape varieties, olive trees and holm oaks. The relaxed
atmosphere of the place contrasts with the resolutely modern reception area of the cellar. A long tasting
counter is occupied by customers who taste the wines of the property, while discovering the works of local
artists. Paul-Antoine Suzzoni, Etienne and Christine’s son, the owners, warmly welcomes us in his office.

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THE BIRTH OF THE VINEYARD PAUL-ANTOINE SUZZONI
«The story of the vineyard began in 1972 when my uncle, Paul After a BTS (Brevet de Technicien Supérieur = advance technician’s
Suzzoni, with the strong support of his father Antoine, decided certificate) in viticulture-oenology obtained in 2012, a degree in
to plant vines,» says Paul-Antoine Suzzoni. «At that time, my Biochemistry for a DNO (Diplôme National d’Œnologie = National
grandfather already thought that everything of speculative Diploma of Oenology) received in 2013 and a Diploma of Viti-Œno
or material value was of no importance. For him, the most Engineer acquired in 2016 at Changins (High School of Viticulture
important thing was the Land! He saw the vineyard as a noble and Oenology in Switzerland), Paul-Antoine Suzzoni returned to
and viable earthly heritage, the only way to wealth,» explains the family property in July 2016, with the intention of doing the
Paul-Antoine. Paul Suzzoni therefore looked for areas that could vinifications before leaving to travel abroad with Lola, his girlfriend.
be mechanised and eventually found about 20 hectares of land to But he was convinced to stay because of his desire to take part in
buy. In 1973, he created three plantation zones on a 25 hectares the project to extend the new winery and to make the property’s
vineyard. In 1976, the first harvests, from the first 14 hectares current plans a reality. The projects were completed before the
of Niellucciu, were vinified in rosé and red. «At the time, wine health crisis of 2020.
was sold in bottles and in bulk. My uncle and grandfather used
to go to the villages with the van and sell the wine by the can. THE STRUCTURING WORK
Bottles were rare and to get some, you had to go and get them «In 1986, my father, Etienne, who was studying to be a veterinarian,
from the landing stage in the port of Calvi, remove them from the decided to become a winemaker. He took over the farm two years
pallet and load them into the van. You needed a lot of conviction later, structured it and enlarged it,» says Paul-Antoine. Adopting his
to make wine here! My family undertook huge work to make father’s wisdom, Etienne focused on the land. «The treasure being
a product that was difficult to sell at the time. My grandfather the land, it was necessary to invest in the land». When Etienne took
and my uncle used to say that it took three litres of wine to over the farm, there were about thirty hectares. Today, the surface
pay for one litre of milk. Corsican wines did not have much of area has increased tenfold, «we have 320 hectares of land divided
a reputation among local consumers and were not of interest to into 64 hectares of planted vines, eight hectares of olive trees and
the continental and foreign markets. Going to Paris to sell wine a hundred hectares dedicated to breeding, mainly suckler cows
was a utopia,» Paul-Antoine says proudly. and a few bullocks for the wheat threshing folklore, La Tribbiera,»

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WINEGROWING EVASION
BALAGNE

says Paul-Antoine. The two brothers, Paul and Etienne, wish to because he is my father, but he is someone who had quite noble
plough using the bullocks’ traction formerly used in Balagne and commitments, quite healthy in the overall and in the partnership
Patrimonio. Mule and horse breeders being quite rare, «My father with the winegrowers,» insists the young winegrower.
was passionate about bullocks a little for that, too!» Today, it is
Christine, Etienne’s wife, who was trained in animal work by Jean- THE CELLAR AND THE PRODUCTION
Claude Lorenzoni, who criss-crosses the plots. She has bought two The original cellar, which was outdated and unsuitable, was
mules and works about ten hectares. Ploughing, ridging, ploughing restructured in 2010. A modern, easy-to-work winery with
in, inter-vine ploughing back... She drives and directs her team with stainless steel tanks, maturing areas, a reception area and bright
a master’s hand. rooms was built. But with the increasing volumes to be vinified,
the 55 hectares of the property and the 40 hectares of the trade,
ETIENNE’S COMMITMENT the cellar was once again becoming too small. In 2018, a beautiful
When Etienne took over the estate, he was part of the new wave extension was built, equipped with ten 72 hl raw concrete vats
of winegrowers, a new generation who wanted to give Corsican filled by gravity, an amazing vertical hydraulic press, barrels and
winegrowing a good reputation. He joined winegrowers like Yves three bronze-coloured concrete eggs.
Leccia, Yves Canarelli, Jean-Charles Abbatucci, young winegrowers
in search of recognition of the winegrowing work and of the TOWARDS A VIRTUOUS APPROACH
identity and quality references of the Corsican vineyard. «My The green and vigorous vineyard has the organic certification
father and my uncle went to Paris, followed and supported the since 2013 and the Demeter certification since 2018. It has
ideas of the leaders and then became a bit of leaders themselves beautiful grassy rows of radish, oats, lupin, grasses and crucifers
and also a bit of a driving force on certain points», underlines to structure the soil and aerate it. «We try to make the mulch thick
Paul-Antoine. Etienne takes on the philosophy of Antoine Arena, enough with biomass to provide nitrogen and organic matter. We
the discernment of Christian Imbert and the determination of make our Preparation 500 with the cowpat from our cows and in
Dominique Gentile. Confident and committed, out of love for his horns that come partly from our own herd. The silica structures
land and his island, he became involved in agricultural policy, in the plant and can be used before the harvest to stimulate the
turn President of the Union, President of the GIAC (Groupement synthesis of polyphenols and anthocyanins, to extract colour
Intersyndical des AOC = Intersyndical Group of CDOs) and and to homogenise the maturity of the grapes and the plant.
President of the Chamber of Agriculture of Upper Corsica. He After observing, I noticed that the horn silica had an effect on
works for the collective, projecting his driving directions for the olive trees, the olives turned green and ripened quickly. I also
the interprofession and for the Corsican vineyard. «It is not noticed, during tests of dynamised silica spraying carried out

76

on a plot of Sciaccarellu three days before the harvest, that the Storia Di is aged in barrels. Our conviction revolves around the
colour concentration was greater and the aromatics were more complexity of the containers and that of the grape varieties which
expressive than the model zone. Perhaps there is no causal link,» offer a great product complexity. We work on balance,» says Paul-
explains Paul-Antoine, before concluding with his feeling, «the Antoine Suzzoni. The Ribbe Rosse parcel range, «is an island, with
winemaker’s approach tends to do better, to make his farm more a particular pedology, of clay alluvium». This beautiful terroir,
resilient and to regenerate his soils by making them more alive. splashed by the sunset and the marine atmosphere, brings fruit
I like the term of «regenerative agriculture». Isn’t the objective concentration, body, complexity, minerality, substance and
of biodynamics to pass on soils that are more fertile and more balance to the three colours. Extracting the best from the land,
resilient than those we have received?» respecting the living, regenerating life, observing, restructuring,
thinking, producing diversity and tasting its authenticity, such
THE PROPERTY MAKES ITS WINE RANGES! are the honest, dynamic and hardworking commitments of the
The Tribbiera PGI range comes from the eastern plain, Tallone fathers and sons of the family, since the creation of the estate.
and Urbinu and Calvi. «This part of the trade is interesting
because it makes entry-level volumes for PGI rosé, white and red OTHER ACTIVITIES AT CLOS CULOMBU
wines. There is a potential to go up in quality and that enables us On July 22nd, Clos Culombu invites you to attend «La Tribbiera»,
to make a first vintage at a very attractive price,» explains Paul- the traditional wheat threshing on the farm. Open to the public,
Antoine. For the Clos Culombu core range, on tasting and for the this event is also an opportunity to enjoy a food-truck/wine bar at
three colours, we notice the taste of the vineyard on the fruit, the noon. «Our aim is to present a more or less complete agricultural
freshness, the balance, the frankness. The wines reveal the varietal organism in conditions of complex and coherent cultural
diversity on the granite arenas of Calvi. «This is the soul that biodiversity and diversity towards a balance between man and
my father wanted to give to his wines,» the winemaker proudly nature». Each year, in the tasting cellar, the Clos organises an
announces. The umbrella range of Storia Di evolves according to exhibition of local artists. All year round, you can also enjoy
the vintages, it offers stories, micro-cuvées and experiments. «It mountain bike rides through the marked vines and a donkey ride
is our learning about terroirs, which we do not know completely, through the vineyard.
it is an internal work of research, vinification and endemic grape
varieties,» reveals Paul-Antoine. These are plots of land that are Clos Culombu
planted in good proportion with a multitude of grape varieties Chemin San Petru, 20260 Lumio
harvested at the same time, then vinified and aged as they were Phone: +33 (0)4 95 60 70 68
in the past, in special and atypical containers. «A large part of the www.closculombu.fr

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WINEGROWING EVASION
BALAGNE

CLOS LANDRY

A COMMITMENT TO MEMORY

The beautiful Clos Landry vineyard is located on the road to Calvi airport. The linear and green vineyards
spread out towards the north, on a barely sloping area, bordered by old umbrella pines. On the horizon, the sea
shimmers... A winding road leads us in front of a large building with a sculptural arched door. The five-metre-

high cellar is dug into the granite arena. Marc Paolini, a young man with dark hair, dynamic and elegant, is
waiting for us with a smile on his face.

The Clos Landry bears the name of a family who acquired it at the BIRTH OF LÉA AND A NEW CUVÉE
In 2001, when Marc’s little sister Léa was born, the family dedicated
beginning of the 19th century. Married to a Corsican woman, Mr a prestige cuvée to her. This was the very first parcel selection of the

Landry came to settle on the Isle of Beauty to found an agricultural vineyard. The blend of Sciaccarellu, Grenache and Niellucciu was
estate with the idea of bequeathing it to his son, who finally preferred
politics. Marc’s great-great-grandfather was therefore hired as the co-fermented in stainless steel vats and then aged in oak barrels for
vineyard’s manager. This was the beginning of a beautiful family 24 months. A cuvée for ageing! «At that time, I didn’t work much on
story, as Marc’s great-grandfather succeeded in changing the the vineyard because I was studying in Nice in the faculty of eco-
statutes to take over and run the property. Today, the Clos Landry,
run by Marc Paolini, the fifth generation of winegrower, is made up management. It was when my grandfather died that I decided to
of 21 hectares in front of the cellar and 4 hectares in Calenzana.
go back to help my mother who was finding it difficult to manage
THE ROSÉ GRIS: A FAMILY INSTITUTION! everything on her own», recalls the young man. In 2010, while Cathy
«Our first rosé gris from Corsica, our iconic rosé, was born in the was making her first vintage, Marc became an agricultural employee
1970s thanks to my grandfather who, in order to save an unusable on the family property, where he acquired all the skills needed to work
in the vineyard and the cellar. He learnt the rigour, the seriousness and
harvest, had the idea to make a white wine, without maceration. the sweats! He also learnt to be interested in the soil, the life of the
By selecting the free-run juice, he got a very clear rosé. He was a
precursor in Corsica for pale rosés», explains Marc Paolini. The grey vine and the ecosystem. «I fell in love with the land and nature and
rosé is the most famous product of the Clos Landry, it goes perfectly
well with summer dishes. it was at this time that I really wanted to become a winemaker». He
then followed a course in wine-making and oenology in Burgundy,
where the teaching was oriented towards pedology, the notion of soil,
wine growing, tasting and vinification. Marc only returned to his roots

78

in 2015 to make his first harvest. «I was nervous because I had never produce a mineral Vermentinu that is quite taut, fresh, with a nice grain
harvested or converted the grapes into wine on my own», he confesses. resulting from the poor, sandy-clay soil. This was the «Roche Mer»
As fate would have it, Christophe Wagner, a young energetic oenologist
version which is available in white and red, aged on lees in stainless
and biodynamist at heart, came to relieve the team. Driven by the steel tanks. In 2020, the «Etonnant Cinsault», fresh and generous with
concentrated cherry and spice, completed the range of production.
desire to experiment and create new vintages, they both committed The progression of the range was dazzling, it had gone from four to
themselves to enriching the initial range composed of the Blanc des eleven wines in seven years and that is not the end of it... A sparkling
Copines, the Rosé Gris, the Rouge Tradition and the Cuvée Léa Rouge. wine is being considered! «To increase the working and maturing
A first trial was carried out on a plot of old Carignan vines dating from surfaces, the cellar should be extended in the coming months. All this
1965. The wine was vinified in stainless steel tanks and aged for a year would not have been possible without my mother’s work. From 2009
to 2015, the work of restructuring the old, deficient vineyard required
in Burgundy barrels. The result was stunning, the 2015 vintage, called her to make huge efforts to renew parcels of Sciaccarellu, Grenache,
Vermentinu and Biancu Gentile. It is thanks to her courage and hard
«l’Inattendu», was warm and powerful with a touch of greed and ripe work that we can now produce exceptional cuvées in the original spirit
fruit. In 2016, the two artists improved and perpetuatead the range of of our wines», the thirty-year-old emphasises.
the Clos and refined the vinification and maturation of the Carignan. To
perfect the plot experiments, the winery acquired several demi-muids. THE VINEYARD’S SUMMER EVENT
Fascinated by the profile of Burgundian whites, they created the Léa Twice during the summer, in mid-July and early August, the property
Blanc cuvée from a 0.5 hectare plot. The tasting of this Vermentinu opens its doors to the public. Walking and tasting tours are organised
wasa gorgeous on the body, the toastiness and kept the mineral and in the vineyard and, at the end of the journey, the sporty epicureans
tense freshness brought by the granitic arena soil. In 2018, the pair are welcomed by a group of Corsican singers. During the evening,
discussions take place at the bar, over wines and farmhouse platters!
converted to AB (Agriculture Biologique = organic farming) with a
Clos Landry
biodynamic vision of the vineyard and biodiversity through a future Route de la forêt de Bonifatu, 20260 Calvi
Phone: +33 (0)6 80 48 98 49 - ww.closlandry.com
agroforestry project. The soil in the rows was enriched with nettle
manure prepared on the vineyard, while decoctions of immortelle
and eucalyptus were sprayed on the leaves to protect them from the
sun. The environment was influenced by the healthy microclimate,
which is favourable to the development of the plant material. In
2019, Christophe and Marc wanted to expand the range of whites and

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WINEGROWING EVASION
BALAGNE

CHÂTEAU PRINCE PIERRE

THE CONSECRATION
OF A NEW TERROIR

Located about twenty kilometres south of Calvi, the bastion of Torre Mozza defies the centuries and
the ravages of time, from the top of the hill. Impressive, massive, rectangular, it sits proudly on the
impregnable valley. If you expect to see a charming castle, you will be surprised! Today it only has the
name of it, but in a few years, the remains of the building will be transformed into a wine tourism site.

The transformation of the estate begins with the creation of the vineyard and the development
of the site. Soon, the «Château» designation will take on its full meaning thanks to the energy

of Jean-Vincent and Jean-Raphaël Grisoli, owners of the property since 2017.

© Rémy Cortin

Between Calvi and Galeria, the winding road leading to the castle runs cousin of Napoléon III. We climb up the dirt road that runs alongside
alongside and stretches over huge pink granite cliffs. An abundance the young vines in the middle of the island’s vegetation. We stop at
of vegetation covers the steep verticals. The azure shades play on about 200 metres altitude in front of a wonderful cirque between the
the contrasts while the scent of the scrubland accompanies us. In sea and the scrubland. To the south-west, we glimpse the sea and the
the distance, we can see the impressive jagged silhouette of a very magnificent Scandola reserve, below, a linear procession of vegetation
openwork castle, sentinel of the Bay of Crovani. Built between 1852 and rocks punctuated by the perfect plantations of the vineyard and to
and 1854 by nearly 300 men, it was the residence, the shelter, the the east, the imposing mining site of Argentella. Welcome to Château
«solitude» of Pierre-Napoléon Bonaparte, nephew of Napoléon I and Prince Pierre-Napoléon.

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MEETING WITH JEAN-VINCENT GRISOLI
«My brother Jean-Raphaël is sorry not to be present this morning,»
apologises Jean-Vincent Grisoli. We take the red and ochre path
leading to the top of the plateau, the heat filling the atmosphere.
«Our family comes from Montemaggiore. In the 1950s, our
grandfather had the opportunity to buy a small house down by
the sea to go fishing. We spent our family holidays in Argentella.
We used to go on motorbikes to play in the castle and we already
dreamed of restoring it,» recalls Jean-Vincent.

TWO BROTHERS FOR A DREAM
In their youth, they were influenced by a member of their family
who was a winemaker in Patrimonio. For a while, they pursued
their professional career. Then, wishing to return to their roots,
they decided to make their dream come true: to buy or create a
wine estate in Corsica. In 2017, the two brothers learned that the
bastion of Torre Mozza, located just above the family home, was
for the umpteenth time for sale. They presented their file to the
authorised institutions, which considered their project to be both
sincere and feasible. They acquired a beautiful plot of land facing
the sea and out of the way in the mountains: an arc of 180 hectares
overlooking the Luzzipeu valley and facing due south. The highest
point of this land, with its 35° slope, is about 300 metres altitude.

PRINCE PIERRE-NAPOLÉON BONAPARTE
Since 2017, the Racine-Grisoli brothers have become the owners
of this huge building, the remains of which have been preserved.
Jean-Raphaël and Jean-Vincent are interested in the obscure and
controversial life of Napoleon III’s cousin, whose story they enjoy
telling. «Pierre-Napoléon Bonaparte was born in 1815 in Rome. He
spent a turbulent childhood in the Roman countryside of Canino.
He is complex, bon vivant, vindictive and a womaniser. He was held
captive by Pope Gregory XVI for the assassination of a sub-lieutenant
of the papal guard during riots related to the revolutionary
movement of the «carbonari», a political movement that contributed
to the unification of Italy. After an eventful stay in the United
States with his uncle Joseph Bonaparte, he took part in Bolivar’s
various revolutions in South America and fought alongside General
Santander. In 1848, he returned to France and was elected deputy of
Corsica to the assembly of the second republic, then president of the
General Council of Corsica. As a hunting enthusiast, Pierre-Napoléon
explored the area around Calenzana and discovered a wonderful site
between the sea and the mountains. In 1852, he decided to build his
future castle there in place of a ruined fortification, «La Torre Mozza».
This was one of the coastal towers erected by the Genoese in the
15th century that prevented and defended against barbarian attacks.
Until 1854, the construction of the castle involved more than three
hundred workers and craftsmen from the town. A huge surrounding
wall encloses the four hectares of garden as well as the small hamlet
where the farm workers lived. On the grounds, olive trees and vines
were planted and seeds were grown. The estate was self-sufficient.
Prince Pierre-Napoléon’s wife, Nina Bonaparte, could not stand the
quiet of the castle and stayed in Paris. During his Parisian escapades,
he gave her two children, Roland and Jeanne. To hear more of this
exciting story, come and listen to Jean-Raphaël, who will be delighted
to hold you spellbound! In contemporary history, the castle will be
used as a school during the Second World War. Abandoned for a long
time and then much coveted, the property finally found its buyers
in 2017.

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ÉVASION VIGNERONNE © Rémy Cortin
BALAGNE

SPECIALISED WINE-GROWING SKILLS
Before planting the first eight hectares in 2018, Pierre Acquaviva
of the Alzipratu vineyard and Etienne Suzzoni of Clos Culombu
advised and guided them in the field of winemaking. Lionel
Le Duc, an agricultural engineer and pedologist, has drilled
pedological pits to choose the grape varieties best suited to the
granite arena soils composed of seven different granites. «He is
now the director of the property,» says Jean-Vincent Grisoli. At
the time of the acquisition, the consultant oenologist Emmanuel
Gagnepain also agreed to follow them. «We really appreciated
his work during the analysis of the organoleptic profiles that we
wanted to obtain in our wines,» explains Jean-Vincent.
PHARAONIC WORKS
In order to bare and service the property, the two brothers
hired teams and got involved in the work with passion. They
undertook to clear scrub, remove stones, dig up and stub out
several hectares with bulldozers and mechanical diggers, driven
by enthusiasm and energy. They are fully aware of their efforts
and their work in respect of the ecosystem, adopting a virtuous
circle. «All the stones have been kept and then recycled to
rebuild walls, make drains, pave roads, create level crossings. On
this huge surface, the work is intense.»
MANAGING THE VINEYARD
The microclimate on the vineyard is very conducive to vine
growing. «The nights are cool and the air flows well throughout
the vineyard. This avoids cryptogamic diseases and allows for
very light treatments. On a phytosanitary level, it is perfect»,
says the winegrower with delight. Moreover, the estate is in a
Natura 2000 zone, not far from the Scandola Reserve, and has
never been treated. «Very windy, the vineyard benefits from the

82

© Rémy Cortin parcel selections is available in two red wines. The first vintage,
«Bleu impérial», is a single-variety blend based on Cinsault,
also called «Blue Imperial» in Australia. The choice of name is
perfect, it is both a reference to the name of the grape variety
in other countries and a nod to the imperial lineage of Prince
Pierre-Napoléon! Planted on an eight-hectare plot on the
highest sloping hillside (30%), it offers two different curves of
maturity. Cinsault grows very well on the granitic arenas. «For
this cuvée, the ripening was pushed four weeks beyond phenolic
maturity. We were surprised because the usually light colour of
the Cinsault was here much more marked and the tannins were
very present.» The black fruits really explode in the mouth. A
second cuvée, «Lucien Bonaparte», in tribute to Prince Pierre’s
father, was created exclusively from the Sciaccarello grape
variety. Lucien Bonaparte was the president of the Conseil des
Cinq Cents (Council of Five Hundred) in October 1799 and saved
his brother Napoleon from failure during the coup d’état of 18
Brumaire. This cuvée was aged for over 22 months in demi-
muids and concrete eggs. For the coming years, the two brothers
have many projects in mind, such as the building of the cellar
and the winery and the renovation of the castle. «We would
also like to make olive oil from our two hundred year old olive
trees and plant almond, pistachio and some citrus trees», says
Jean-Vincent Racine-Grisoli. These are great projects for this
estate, which is already offering on-site tastings and a tour of
the vineyard in buggies!

sea. It therefore seemed obvious to us to convert it to organic WINE TASTING
from the outset. We fenced it off to protect the vines from wild The granite complexity of the terroir reveals its texture in the
boars. The vineyard follows the principles of biodynamics with minerality, delicacy and salinity found in the estate’s wines.
a view to Demeter certification. «Our agricultural engineer 2021 «Argentella» Rosé cuvée: 70% Sciaccarellu, 20%
Lionel Le Duc is working on replanting hedges and setting up Cinsault, 10% Vermentinu. A bright red colour, with a brilliant
agroforestry within the plots. The hectares are constantly and crystalline aspect, the nose is rich on berries, redcurrant,
being worked, structured, fenced and planted. The two daring blackberry, arbutus berry, with vegetal notes, the fruity palate
brothers are aiming to develop the 45 hectares of vineyard. A is wide and straight with a nice crunchy vivacity. The finish is
vineyard where white grape varieties are predominant. «In our elegant and marked by a fine salinity. A beautiful balance.
vineyard, Vermentinu dominates. It is completed by old native 2021 «Argentella» White cuvée: 100% Vermentinu. Slow
grape varieties such as Rimenese, Genovese, Codivarta and direct pressing, 24-hour skin maceration at 10°C. Luminous gold
Bianco Gentile. For the red wine, Sciaccarellu, the leading variety with silver highlights, complex and aromatic nose of citrus fruit,
of the Corse Calvi PDO, is predominant, followed by Minustellu, fine buttery and brioche notes, delicate minerality. The first
Niellucciu, Aleatico, Carcajolo Nero and the well-known Cinsault, impression in the mouth is wide and generous on the pomelo
which is very resistant to drought,» explains the wine enthusiast. and infusion, the luxuriant heart of the mouth accompanies the
finish with its «peppy» vegetal freshness.
WATER, SOURCE OF LIFE 2021 «Argentella» Red cuvée: 70% Sciaccarellu, 30% Cinsault.
At the time of the first plantings, the town council granted the Brilliant deep ruby, greedy nose, red fruit paste, white pepper,
young winegrowers part of the capacity of the Argentella dam the mouth is supple and fleshy with beautiful melted tannins,
to water the young vines. As water is essential on the estate, the finish stretches to morello cherry and prune stone.
two separate boreholes, one at 80 metres and the other at 95 2021 Bleu Impérial cuvée: 100% Cinsault. A seductive dark
metres deep, have been added to the system. The extracted amaranth colour, notes of ripe red fruit, prune and kirsch cherry,
water is pumped to the top of the estate. The stored water flows the generous mouth reveals the aromatic complexity of myrtle
back down by gravity to give pressure to the pipes. Next year, a liqueur, the straightforward finish is delicately saline.
pipeline will be drawn from the Argentella dam to the estate to 2020 Lucien cuvée: 100% Sciaccarellu. A generous and deep
irrigate it in the event of drought. ruby colour, with notes of kirsch cherry, fresh strawberry
coulis and white pepper, the wide, fleshy mouth is energised by
THE BIRTH OF THE WINES aromatic nuances of redcurrant jelly and eucalyptus notes, the
The first range, called «Argentella», presented in three colours, lovely tannic volume extends into a splendid finish.
refers to the locality of the silver mine that has been exploited
since Antiquity and also represents the family home, close to Château du Prince Pierre-Napoléon Bonaparte
the heart of the young winemakers. Another range in micro- 20214 Calenzana

83

WINEGROWING EVASION
CAP CORSE

DOMAINE

TERRA DI CATONI

Christian Mons-Catoni has an extraordinary entrepreneurial destiny and an exceptional life path.
Let’s meet a friendly, cheerful, endearing and dynamic winegrower from Cap Corse.

84

A HIGH-FLYING CAREER CAP CORSE, HIS NATIVE LAND
Christian wanted to rebuild the family estate and enhance it in
In 1964, when he was only 19 years old, Christian Mons-Catoni order to bequeath it to his three daughters. In 1996, he began to
take over the farming of the four and five hundred year old olive
obtained his law degree in Paris and was quickly driven by a trees of the «Capanaccia» variety. In 2000, he set about recovering
the family land that had been scattered through inheritance. He
strong self-confidence feeling that propelled him towards a bought back all the undivided lots from his cousins and set about
hectic professional life. In 1966 he became a publisher, in 1970 reorganising and restructuring the 25 hectares of the original
he became a professional racing driver and then director of the estate. In 1812, this large estate by the sea was very rare. Olive
Winfield driving school in Magny-Cours for four years. He then trees and vines reigned supreme. The land was abandoned at the
joined SOGITEC, an aeronautical engineering company and time of phylloxera and was forgotten for a century. The scrubland
subsidiary of Dassault. Following a contract for the sale of Mirages took over and the inextricable vegetation settled on the rocky
escarpments at two hundred metres altitude. In 2005, a huge
3 to Australia, he was in charge of translating into English and manual work project began: start from the scrubland, from a
virgin land full of rocks and create everything! The first step was
bringing to standard various technical documentation. Recognised digging the road with 35-ton shovels, in the rock up to the top of
for his high strategic values, he continued with maintenance the hill, tapping, stubbing out, crushing, dynamiting, excavating,
films, simulators, synthetic image generators, and, in 1983, he to get the flat and regular surfaces necessary for the planting of
joined Dassault. His dynamic entrepreneurial mindset led him to the vines. In 2010-2012, the preparation of the soil will last three
manage the French subsidiary of Control Data (CEA Méteo), the years. Three more years will be needed for planting, and it will
American supercomputer manufacturer, for five years. In 1989, he be another three years before the first harvest and the first wine!
was recruited by Thomson-CSF and spent twelve years working
on on-board electronics, gas pipelines, defence IT systems for the DISCOVERING HIS WORK
Charles-de-Gaulle aircraft carrier, outsourcing and application This beautiful estate is listed as an Ile de Beauté PGI. Facing
maintenance... He continued his professional rise by joining the Tuscan archipelago, it rises two hundred metres above the
Transiciel, a digital services company, and stayed there for five Tyrrhenian Sea on a steep camber of about 50%. We embark
years. In 2000, with his business partner Georges Cohen, he bought in a pick-up truck that is well suited to climbing, together
the company «Auverland», a French off-road car manufacturer,
then «Panhard», a military vehicle manufacturer which he will with Christian Mons-Catoni, the owner of the site, a cheerful
later sell to Volvo. To complete his professional work, Christian
Mons-Catoni was for a while elected to the presidency of GICAT
(Groupement des Industries Françaises de Défense Terrestre =
Group of French Land Defence Industries).

85

WINEGROWING EVASION
CAP CORSE

winemaker and «Chica», his apricot poodle that follows him marl, degraded schist and clay-schist bottom. The grassy rows
everywhere. We slowly progress vertically, bumpy and chaotic, of broad bean and slimy inula stand alongside mauve and white
battered by the track and amazed by the panorama that opens rockrose with sage leaves, arbutus and lentiscus complete the
up as we ascend. The bumpy red dirt track winds through the biotope’s biodiversity. We look at the vines that are growing.
scrub for five kilometres and gradually climbs to the high plateau. The row on the right, where there is little soil, has been pruned
We pass Sciaccarellu, Sauvignon, Vermentinu, and Viognier on a slope and has not developed much, whereas on the left, in
plants which has replaced the Muscat à petits grains, because the embankment, it is spreading out and taking its time to enter
Christian wants to be unique in his wine production. «I don’t the soil. «This year, we added broad beans to fix the nitrogen
want to make wines like everyone else!» Inspired by the Tuscan in the roots and sheep manure. This way, we manage to have
winegrowers, he wanted to plant the Val de Loire grape variety quite a lot of organic matter. The vines are looking good and
like them, despite the lack of water. «You have to be crazy to grow are starting to produce fruit. The altitude and the breezes help
Sauvignon, especially on hillsides! In 2017 there was no harvest to fight against mildew. We used the shredder on almost sterile
because of the severe drought! It didn’t produce anything. Now soil, and that way, we succeeded in improving it.» Christian
the Sauvignon is deeply planted. It took twelve years for it to can’t stop talking about vineyard management. «Ploughing is
adapt to the terroir!» He also plans to plant four hectares of red absurd,» he says, «it is a misunderstanding of the vine’s typology,
grape varieties other than Niellucciu. To do so, he is following which has a very deep, swirling root system. Do not kill the life
the work of the CRVI (Centre de Recherche Viticole de Corse = of the soil by ploughing, respect the substratum, the worms, the
Corsican Wine Research Centre). mycelium... The panorama opens onto vineyard terraces planted
with cypress hedges that create vertical lines that break up the
AN ESTATE MANAGED USING ORGANIC FARMING METHODS winding horizontals! Because it is visually appealing, Christian
The 4x4 finally comes to a halt on the upper plateau, offering a was inspired by Tuscan perspectives, because in Italy, cypresses
beautiful view of the green shades of the terraced crops and the are everywhere! To illustrate his words, he draws small straight
blue of the sea drenched with sunlight. Young Genovese vines lines in the air, «tac, tac, tac, tac», which outline the landscape. In
the middle of the slope, further down, there is a beautiful rowan
grow against the beautiful schist blocks on a tri-layered soil of

86

«  His olive oil and wines
are exclusive to Terra
di Catoni shops and

restaurants.  »

tree, a stone pine, fig trees... No monoculture here! We can see the ago, the trees have been re-cut and have grown back on the

roofs of the red and blue houses, the tool sheds of the ancestors old roots. The Capanaccia grows very slowly, this small olive
which is the signature of the Cap Corse, harvested on a net,
have been rebuilt with the stones extracted from the ground gives a very aromatic and sapid oil with a very ripe black fruit
taste. Our guide has his harvest ground by his friend François
during the clearing of the scrubland and the digging of the soil, Andreani at Folelli. Certified AB (Agriculture Biologique =
organic agriculture) by InterBio, the mill is authorised by the
to make the small houses of the hangar, the wine cellar, the shop Oliu Di Corsica union to press the olives of the Domaine Catoni.
and the restaurant. All the construction work was carried out Further down, a lush garden stands out with an old banana tree
by the owner and one of his employees, who is a bricklayer. The with large varnished leaves, damaged fig trees, orange trees
110-metre deep borehole goes down to sea level and supplies laden with fruit and multitudes of butterflies in the tall grass.
water to all the houses on the estate. The stone walls surround We slowly and uneasily make our way to the nest of four hidden
kilometres of land on which the vines now grow freely. In the Panhards, withdrawn in the foliage and watching us... They are
19th century, buckwheat, similar to rye, was grown here and still in use on the estate.
the threshing ground was located nearby. The inhabitants of the
Cap lived in self-sufficiency, they did not buy anything. Christian A BEAUTIFUL WINE CELLAR
remembers his grandmother’s words: «They only bought thread We reach the sublime cellar wine whose architecture blends
and ticking»... «All the mills on the Cap were wheat mills, the into the landscape. Inside, we are welcomed by an incredible
Moulin du Cap Corse Mattei, as well as Macinaggio and Morsiglia jumble of stainless steel vats, presses, labelling machines
mills. The last one, in Cagnano, has three millstones: the first one and other packaged boxes. The 20 hl vats contain the 100%
for olives, the second one for chestnut flour and the third one for Sauvignon, 100% Vermentinu white wines and/or their blend,
wheat or corn». We take the track again, we cross rabbits and while the 10 hl vats protect the olive oil that will be bottled
partridges, «Chica» barks, the wild boars are not far away! They on site. Approximately 15,000 to 20,000 bottles are produced
plough the land with rage, they are a disaster for the vineyard each year, including 6,000 of «Pet Nat» and a fresh red wine of
at harvest time! The pick-up negotiates an uphill bend, bumpy
and chaotic, and we arrive in front of the 1950-1955 orchard, the
silver olive trees offer their foliage to the sun. Burnt fifty years

87

WINEGROWING EVASION
CAP CORSE

Sciaccarellu. The winegrower’s credo is to make highly original LET’S TASTE!
wines, as much in the choice of grape varieties, the production, 2021 «Rosé Pet Nat» Prestu Limited Edition
the vinification method, the ageing process, as in the choice of Neither filtered nor disgorged, it contains natural lees which
bottle and cap. The 2019 Sauvignon-Vermentinu «Millete» blend enhance the bouquet of this Sciaccarellu. Brilliant colour with a
is slowly aging on its lees in 14 hectolitre tanks. It is currently very dense foam, fresh nose, lively and fruity palate with a touch
on sale in the shop with the 2018 Sauvignon. The wines are of bitter orange, salty finish. Goes well with wild boar terrine with
aged for a minimum of two years in stainless steel tanks, bottled hazelnuts, muscat, coppa.
unfiltered, and spend a year in a tent in the vineyard before
being released. The «Pet Nat» natural sparkling wines in white 2020 «White Pet Nat» Prestu «ANDANTE» Limited Edition
or rosé, unfiltered, do not wait. They are bottled in «Prosecco» Neither filtered nor disgorged, it contains natural lees which
bottles with screw caps, put in boxes and then on pallets and enhance the bouquet of this Vermentinu. Nice golden colour, fresh
quickly marketed. sparkle, buttery nose, citrus notes. Goes well with goat’s cheese.

MANY STRINGS TO HIS BOW! «2018 Sauvignon»
His olive oil and wines are exclusive to Terra di Catoni shops and Brilliant golden colour, a nose of turmeric, walnuts, citrus fruit,
restaurants. Two fine delicatessens in Porticciolo and Erbalonga liveliness and salinity characterise this Sauvignon that wakes you
are stocked with local and artisanal products, cheeses, cold up. Goes well with a plate of raw milk ewe’s cheese.
meats, seasonal vegetables, various jams, biscuits, drinks, wines,
beers, aperitifs, liqueurs and brandies and offer customers Terra Di Catoni olive oil
authentic products from Cap Corse region. In addition, the Harvested the old fashioned way. Nice smoothness, notes of cooked
artichoke, sweet and balanced aniseed finish on fresh almond. Goes
three restaurants in Porticciolo, Erbalonga and Macinaggio well with a plate of ewe’s and goat’s cheese, grilled red mullet with
cherry tomatoes, coppa.
offer a menu of simple and tasty dishes. The staff are friendly
and helpful. A fourth restaurant should open soon in Bastia. Domaine Terra di Catoni
Finally, a large-scale project should see the light of day in Meria, Lieu-dit Porticciolo, 20228 Cagnano
in April 2024, a 4-star Hotel & Spa. It will have eighteen «zen» Phone: +33 (0)4 95 46 00 14 - +33 (0)6 24 90 85 12
rooms and eight swimming pools. The concept can be summed www.terradicatoni.com
up in two words: wine tourism and wine therapy, inspired
by the «Caudalies» farms in Aquitaine, the spa will offer the
«Sarmence» cosmetics, made from the wines of the Domaine
Abbattucci, and the rooftop restaurant, with its unobstructed
view of the sea, will offer a menu focused on dietetics, fitness,
well-being and nature. The tour of the estate is amazing and the
passionate guide takes you out of time in a pick-up truck to the
top of a steep, green hill, 200 metres above the sea! You can ask
for a package for the day including a walk, lunch and tasting of
Corsican specialities.

88



WINEGROWING EVASION
CÔTE ORIENTALE

THE CAVE D’ALERIA

SITE OF HISTORY AND WINE

A large cellar on the beach, feet in the water, breathing to the rhythm of the sea spray, who could have
imagined it? An archaeological site dating from the 6th century BC, a wonderful arable coastal plain and
the will of men to work the vine, this is how the Cave d’Aléria was born, spearheading the Corsican wine

industry.

The Territoriale road winds its blue asphalt strip endlessly along cellar can be seen behind the white arenas. The sea, a few dozen
metres further on, seems to be a pool of sunshine. On a sandy track,
the coastal belt of the Costa Serena. On either side of the road, the
green rows of vines, like a flight in formation, frantically overlap between the vines plants, we reach the tall pines. The cellar staff,
the waves of the ochre-red hillsides. The vineyard of the Cave with their twinkling eyes, smiling faces and a touch of humour, lead

d’Aléria urges you to follow it straight ahead to the beach. The us towards the shop’s esplanade.

90

BEAUTIFUL VINEYARDS FROM ORGANIC AGRICULTURE FOR

QUALITY
The most remote vineyards are located at more than 80 km
south from the north of the island, from Ghisonaccia-Gare to

Borgo, passing through Aléria, Tallone and Aghione. The soils
are alluvial, they are made up of sandy marl and grey marl or

sandy-clay. The exposure, due east and south-east, offers little
undulating relief whose marine influence pervades the terroir.
The vineyards are naturally planted with endemic grape
varieties, Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu and Vermentinu. Other terroirs
complete the grape varieties of association such as Grenache,

Syrah, Cinsault, Muscat à petits grains and Muscat à gros grains.

The current craze is based on old grape varieties, so Biancu
Gentile was introduced in 2017 on the terroir of the president

of the Cave d’Aléria, Christian Orsucci, who also plans to grow

Carcaghjolu Neru. The grape varieties of the Vins De Pays have
almost all been uprooted. No more Merlot, Chardonnay and
Cabernet Sauvignon! The island’s ampelographic resources
are highlighted to acquire more identity and typicity. The

winery produces Protected Designation of Origin and Protected
Geographical Indication wines. The member partners are all
committed to preserving their environment, 95% of the vines
are HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale = High Environmental
Value) certified and the remaining 5% will be certified at the end

of the year. A large part of the vineyards will soon be certified as
Organic Agriculture, currently 100 hectares are HVE and organic
certified, the land is fertilised with natural manure.

Christian Orsucci, President of the Cave d’Aléria MARKET AND PRODUCTION

HISTORICAL PERMUTATION The Cave d’Aléria is today the leading producer in Corsica. Its
The city of Alalia was founded by fleeing Greeks in 445 BC. Here, cooperative members cultivate 1,500 hectares, the 300,000
they grew wheat, olives and vines. The inhabitants imported hectolitres of vats allow for vinification and maturation and each
amphorae and ceramics. This was the beginning of international year 7,000,000 necks are bottled. The Cave d’Aléria stands out
trade. Then, the Etruscans arrived. Part of the Greek population from the local wine production with 100,000 hectolitres of wine
produced annually. In comparison, Corsica supplies the market
went into exile in Italy and the other part chose to live together with a total of 330,000 hectolitres of wine. 72 to 75% is vinified
with the Etruscans. The trading post mixed. Later, Romans as rosé. Today, 40% of the volume of the cellar is sold in Corsica,
landed and quickly took over. They built a fort and renamed 40% on the continent and the remaining 20% is exported to
the town «Aleria». They proclaimed it to be the capital of Germany, the United States, Japan, Italy, Belgium and Switzerland.
Corsica. During this occupation, the town was thriving, trade Consumer taste guides the references and volumes. For example,
was flourishing, land cultivation was booming and wine was in Germans are more interested in woody notes and sweetness, and
demand. In the middle of the 20th century, the huge cooperative they appreciate the «Réserve Du Président». The German market
Cave d’Aléria is considered as the wine-producing flagship of the corresponds to 1,700,000 bottles. «For some years now, we have
been looking for ways to enhance our image,» explains Amélie
Eastern Coast, thanks to its size but above all to the notoriety of
Mauduit, the Sales Director. «The solution is to have at least
its archaeological site. The Cave d’Aléria was founded in 1958. one wine reference in the wine merchants and the restaurants.

A little later, it was necessary to create a real first range of We have the terroirs and the know-how to create high quality
recognisable wine and to give it a name. It was agreed to call it wines. Our equipment is modern, our teams are efficient and our
«Réserve» followed by «Président», in honour of the authority oenologist Alain Leymarie is a perfectionist who is constantly
in charge at that time. The «Réserve du Président» vintage has
just celebrated its 64th anniversary. Then came the three-colour thinking about the wine profiles to be developed.»
ranges in blends and single-variety wines for the «Historique»
SPACE AND CONTAINERS
and the top-of-the-range white, rosé and red for the «Prestige», Like a huge maze of vats of all sizes with large red and blue pipes
made from plot selections. Today, the Cave d’Aléria continues to running along the floor, whirring pumps, inactive tangential
develop its difference in the right direction and is growing in filters, long and voluminous pneumatic presses and other
line with national and international markets. It evolves in the
diversity of its ranges, creates carefully elaborated vintages and cleaning tanks, the cellar covers half a hectare of floor space
maintains its definition of wine. and contains 300,000 hectolitres of fermenting room. The area

is divided into three parts: the first one, on the outside, is a
vertical army of huge stainless steel vats with a capacity of 600
to 800 hectolitres that reach for the sky. In the second part,

91

WINEGROWING EVASION
CÔTE ORIENTALE

Amélie Mauduit, Sales Director

the rectangular concrete vats are leaning against the retaining THE COMMITMENT OF THE CAVE TO HISTORY

walls. Their high walls, browned by age, run towards the high According to Christian Orsucci, President of the Cave d’Aléria,
roof. At man’s height, gaping holes framed in red are lined with «the winery lacked coherence for some, it even gave off an image
a hermetic stainless steel single door. In the midst of a powerful
hubbub of machinery, near the huge and heavy access door that was a little too industrial. This is why we wanted to create a
opening onto the delivery platform, Amélie Mauduit explains that
a major project to renew the building is underway. «We are going cohesion between the archaeological site and the cellar by going
to completely renovate the cellar according to environmental back to the roots, to the sources, by working with the amphora.
standards. The work is scheduled for 2025-2026 and will last We wanted to give meaning and soul to the history of wine. To
do this, we have imagined and designed our museum, which will
five years. The roof will be covered with photovoltaic panels that open its doors very soon. Reproductions, jars and amphorae from
the Etruscan period and many other potteries will be on display.
will insulate and reinforce the original roof! A large extension We have strengthened our work with the University of Corsica
and the researchers of the DRAC, Direction Régionale des Affaires
will start at the entrance to the estate with a space dedicated Culturelles (= Regional Department of Cultural Affairs). We have
to winemaking and a convergence centre with pipes leading to discovered many remains in the locality and even in our vineyards.

the filtration area. The wines will be stored there and ready to We wanted to use this ancestral know-how and bring it up to date.
be bottled. We will save time, safety and ease of working,» she Located near the shop, the museum will immerse visitors in a
memorial space where they will be able to see and understand the
asserts. In the recently built third part, the lines are clean and gestures of ancient life. In a way, we want to make eternity last! Our
modern, the pale green paint emphasises the serenity of the «Eterna» range fits perfectly into this vision!»
cellar. The amphorae and jars of more than 800 litres, made of
SALES AND COMMUNICATION
terra cotta and sandstone, are shaped by hand. «We produce The terrace, with its blonde parquet floor, has barrels and high
10,000 bottles a year, we have found the right formula for the chairs to welcome visitors. The view of the sea invites you to relax. A
last two years with these containers,» says Alain Leymarie. On small slate offers some local drinks and the wines of the production.
one side the Niellucciu and on the other the Vermentinu with
«The terrace is there to provide a real social life. We also plan to
an oxidative ageing without the whole bunches. «Sandstone and
terra cotta do not respond in the same way. For the white in a jar, create events with painting exhibitions and literary presentations»,
we are looking for apricot and melon aromas at the beginning says Amélie. The spacious and bright shop is equipped with a

of oxidation while avoiding acidity and the waxy side that can large tasting counter, various bottles with attractive labels and
appear in just one month. You have to oxidise the product but three eight-bottle oenomatics. «We are developing e-commerce
not too much,» explains Alain. «We plan to blend amphora-terra online and we have set up a counter for customers who, when they
cotta and amphora-sandstone for a richer, more voluminous red.
Later, we will work with concrete eggs,» he concludes.

92

«  Generosity
at the heart of wine

and history at
the heart of men! »

Gilbert Guillem, Cellar Master

Alain Leymarie, Oenologist

subscribe, instantly increase their number of followers on their finish. Very nice wine.
account. We are looking for closeness with our customers, about a
hundred of them visit the shop every day!» 2021 rosé Prestige du Président: opal pink colour, brilliant, greedy
nose, «milk-grenadine», rich, acidulous, smoky vegetal touch. The
LET’S TASTE! first impression in the mouth is generous and crisp, with floral notes.
Nice vivacity on red berries and white pepper, clean and aromatic
2021 white Réserve du Président: pale green colour, brilliant, finish. Very nice wine.
fresh vegetal notes, body of the pomelo pulp, good balance, nice 2020 red Réserve du Président: deep black, blackberry juice, floral
minerality. A lovely aperitif wine. nose, wisteria, small black and red berries, violet, nice tender and
2021 white Petroni: crystal clear pale green gold colour, very citrusy dynamic volume, the tannins are nicely melted. A well-balanced
nose with notes of Yuzu, very vegetal, nice liveliness, a lot of pep! The
palate is taut, very pleasant, with a nice saline finish, very balanced. wine, pleasant to drink.
Beautiful expression, very aromatic, light. A lovely summer wine!
2020 white Prestige du Président: brilliant gold colour, vanilla 2020 red Petroni: dense, deep and dark substance, toasted nose,
caramel, buttery notes and red fruits, ample, generous, salivating
nose, pear in syrup, quince jelly and nougat nose, fullness and mouthfeel, ripe and silky tannins, delicate and energetic length. A
volume on the palate with candied citron, white pepper, nice length very fine wine for a meal!
with a saline relief.
2021 rosé Réserve du Président: shimmering colour, redcurrant 2017 Prestige du Président: deep black, rich substance, beautiful
juice, iodised orange nose, vegetal notes, lively and acidic palate with woody complexity, cherry stone, eucalyptus notes, mentholated,
ample and generous volume, supple, notes of star anise, liquorice,
red berries, nice saline length.
rich and opulent length, beautiful tannic precision. A wine for
2021 rosés Petroni: pink quartz colour, silver tints, crystal clear,
redcurrant nose, slightly mineral, good tension, very fruity. The first pleasure.
impression in the mouth is lively, greedy, nice on the redcurrant,
raspberry, nice tension on the vegetable, it is sharp! A beautiful saline Cave d’Aléria
Route de la mer - Padulone, 20270 Aléria
Phone: +33 (0)4 95 57 02 48 - www.cavedaleria.fr

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DOMAINE DE PERETTI
DELLA ROCCA

THE HEART RECOGNITION

The county road, lined with low stone walls, winds through an aerial tunnel of grey-blue branches. We take the indicated
path, the progress is slow, the destination unclear. All of a sudden, at the bend in the road, surrounded by a variety of
vegetation of various species, a modern and elegant architecture invites us to admire it. The turquoise water of the
swimming pool overflows onto the tender green vine. The terrace is perfectly laid out for breakfast. The bright light
enhances the serenity of the place, watched over by a hundred-year-old cork oak. A large shaded park, where one can
guess the sheepfolds, offers a feeling of peace. Jean-Baptiste de Peretti della Rocca, welcomes us in a friendly manner.

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PORTRAIT OF A GENEROUS WINEGROWER the vines create the architecture of the vineyard. Cypress trees
WITH AN ATYPICAL CAREER frame the plot boundaries, while oats, sweet peas and thistles
In 1988, at the age of 19, Jean-Baptiste de Peretti della Rocca created mark the inter-plot paths. The surrounding vegetation encourages
the covered car park at Figari airport on the family land, which he biodiversity. The vineyard’s piecemeal planting began in 2013,
sold to Europcar six years later. He then left for Madagascar for two with three hectares of Vermentinu, followed by the planting
years to open, with his cousin, a factory making smocked dresses for years 2014, 2019 and 2022, during which an average of three
children. It was an intense experience, but the partnership did not hectares of the native varieties Sciaccarellu, Minustellu, Niellucciu,
work out, so he returned to France. He then created, in Paris with his Genovese, Carcaghjolu Neru and Biancu Gentile are planted. Jean-
ex-wife, the «Baobab» company, which markets internationally raffia Baptiste chose to grow different clones of Carcaghjolu Neru and
baskets imported from Madagascar. His wife conceived the drawing Vermentinu, in order to have a balance in relation to the desired
and design. The business lasted four years and in 2002, the company wine profile. Today, the vineyard covers just over 15 hectares, of
was sold. In 2003, when his son Jules was born, he decided to return which 9 are in production. The estate is in conversion to organic
to Corsica and took over the herd of twenty cattle managed until farming and will be certified AB (Agriculture Biologique = Organic
then by his uncle. At the same time, he opened a fashion boutique Agriculture) in 2023.
«Mare Di Latte» in Porto-Vecchio, which he ran for fifteen years. In
2007, after obtaining his farming permits, he shared with his uncle WINE CELLAR AND VINTAGE
his father’s land that were due to him. He decided to develop the land In 2017, the first vintage produced by the three hectares harvested
and fulfil a childhood dream. was quickly produced. The vinification was done at Clos Colonna
in Sartène because the wine cellar had not yet been built. The
THE EMERGENCE OF THE VINEYARD temporary 100 m² cellar, built in 2018, lacks working space but
The plots of land spread out, just in front of the house, in a eight hectares were able to be vinified there last year. A new
semicircle on the sandy-clay slopes, facing south-west. The groves cellar, equipped with technological devices and various tanks and
of olive trees and the patches of scrubland left here and there in containers for maturing, will be built at the top of the «Supranu»

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FIGARI

plot in 2023. The foundations have already been built. For the is perfect and the vintage is well underway, it has rained just
names of his vintages, Jean-Baptiste pays tribute to members enough. The two large plots, whose soil is alluvial, sandy-silt, are
of his family as the new vintages come out: 2017 «Jules» for doing very well, the soil here is richer than the granite arena.
his father and son, in all three colours, 2019 «Colette» for The vineyard is very beautiful, lush, there is almost no loss», says
his daughter, in all three colours, 2020 «Joséphine» for his happily our guide. «Except perhaps in the last plantation of six
mother, a fresh red and the last 2020 «Françoise» vintage for hectares where the soil is harder, compact, draining and stony.
his grandmother, who raised him, is an aged white that will be This soil is prone to landslides and poor water circulation. The
released in mid-June. subsoil is complicated and leads to more mortality. Up there,
on the hillock, there is no irrigation yet, so we’ll have to think
THE TEAM OF THE ESTATE about watering», explains Mr Peretti della Rocca. We change
The vinifications are carried out by the brilliant consultant plot, here the thuja hedges criss-cross the spaces and protect
oenologist Aurélie Patacchini, who has been following him from the vines from the wind, the grassing is under control. The vines
the beginning, as have many island winemakers. The controls are bushy, green and very beautiful. On the height of the tying,
and the follow-up of the production are carried out by Maxence the flower heads are tender but vigorous. «I am happy because
Pellegrini, cellar master, a young dynamic woman who has been the wind did not blow too much this year! There, the plot of
accompanying Jean-Baptiste since 2020 in his quest to improve Grenache affected by mildew is surrounded by the two plots
his wine profiles. She wears several hats on the estate since she «Suprana» and «Luntanu», we treated them with copper and
is at the same time cellar master, sales representative, delivery sulphur, which has protected them. On the other side, the vines
manager and receptionist at the estate hotel. A real performance! have been affected by the frost, it hurts my heart», continues
Maintenance is taken care of by Mourad, who is also a farm Jean-Baptiste. In the rows of the new vineyard, very recently
worker, mechanic, machine driver and delivery man, depending planted with vines, the frail shoots timidly stretch out their
on the needs. The phytosanitary monitoring is carried out by single leaf in a squared formation. Opposite, the workers are
Pierre-Albert Spaccesi-Nuvoli, viticulture advisor at the regional busy. With their backs bent, they are disbudding. Pierre-Albert
chamber of agriculture of Corsica. The team is completed by two notices that they will have to use the lifters because the vine has
seasonal workers and sales are handled by the «Vindemia» sales risen very quickly and the shoots are quite brittle. The vineyard
agency which covers the Upper Corsica region. is well fenced, there are no stray cows or wild boars! «In winter,
the sheep are delighted, they have access to the plots of land that
A LITTLE TRIP THROUGH THE VINEYARD are normally off limits to them. They fertilise and clean the rows
Pierre-Albert, an agronomist specialised in viticulture, offers to of vines.» It is noon, the vehicle sets off towards the restaurant.
take us to discover the vineyard. We climb into his pick-up and Jean-Baptiste and the chef Emmanuelle Canonicci, his cousin,
drive along the paths of the estate. «The phytosanitary aspect are waiting for us for a selection of dishes offered on the menu.

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JEAN-BAPTISTE, A WINEGROWER AND HOTELIER SERVING
NICE AND TASTY FOOD
The couple separated in 2017, and the house quickly became too big
for Jean-Baptiste. What to do with all this space? Either rent out the
house, or make the place live by bringing in customers? The second
option seemed more suitable. He turned to a British tour operator
who had to stop working with him because of the Brexit. He then
thought that the concept of a hotel could work. Providing service and
amenities in a green setting should be of interest... The house is large
and the spaces quickly fitted out. The four rooms will be named after
the family members and will be arranged and decorated according to
the character of each one, either sober, refined, zen or dynamic. Let’s
not forget that this decision, made with heart and soul, also concerns
the estate’s vintages, which reflect the family’s personalities when
tasted! The gite opened to customers in July 2020. Success came
quickly. The sheepfolds in the park have been restored or built in a
refined architecture with dynamic lines. They are very comfortable
dry brick houses, fitted out with modern equipment. The large picture
window opens onto the terrace, the bucolic garden and the topaz blue
swimming pool. Quality service is offered, as well as cleaning, room
service and private tastings. The gite now welcomes a loyal continental
and local clientele.

ON THE COOKING SIDE
«The vine, wine, accommodation, tourism and hotel business are
complementary for me,» says the owner of the estate. According to
him, the reception of people helps to make the wine known, which
allows people to discover real local products. The hotel business is
the combination of service, taste and pleasure generated by the well-
being provided by the place, the plate and the good wine. «We offer our
guests a dining area that can seat around 30 people in the evening. The
cooking is prepared exclusively with local seasonal products. We work
with committed producers who respect the terroir. We buy our meat
from François Maestracci, our neighbour who breeds calves, Vincent
Canarelli’s cheeses come from the Murtoli estate, and the vegetables
come from our own garden. We also produce our own olive oil, of the
Zinzala variety, which is typical of southern Corsica. The olives are
harvested the old-fashioned way, on nets, we have about twenty trees.
Two years ago we obtained one hundred litres of oil», he concludes.

A HAPPY MAN
Today, Jean-Baptist has a sense of fulfilment. His heart is at peace. He
believes in life. He is all the more proud that his son Jules is studying
viticulture and oenology in Beaune. «He is training to better take over
the reins of the Famidda estate!» In terms of accommodation, the
estate offers four rooms and four sheepfolds with a swimming pool.
The sheepfolds are rented for a minimum of seven days in July and
August. The rooms are rented for the night. The estate offers wine
tasting and/or cheese or cold meat platters for €35 per person. In
addition, you can enjoy walks in the vineyards and walks along the
«Testa Vintilegne» coastline.

Domaine de Peretti della Rocca
Pruno, 20114 Figari
Phone: +33 (0)6 49 52 68 84 - www.deperettidellarocca.com

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PATRIMONIO

LE CLOS TEDDI

A LEGENDARY
PLACE NAME

The Clos Teddi vineyard is located in the town of Casta, in the Agriates desert. The relief shows vast ridges,
valleys and snowy summits. Facing the sea and the Cap Corse, the arid landscape of scrubland and granite
rocks seems to have been carved by the sea gusts. «Sometimes the toponomy reveals a legend that testifies to
the presence of the gods. Thus, at the foot of Monte Genova, we find the name of the nereid Thetis, a marine
divinity, metamorphosed and masculinised into «Teddi». The vineyard, owned by Marie-Brigitte Poli, has thus

rediscovered a feminine side.

The six-kilometre track heckles the car with its many cracks and winding through the imposing cirque of the Agriates. Far ahead, a
protruding lines. The wheels struggle to find their balance between spectacular granite gneiss inselberg, Monte Genova, rises up. Marie-
Brigitte, with her hazelnut eyes, appears like a Greek statue. In the
the slopes and steep paths. The red and dusty path is eaten away bright, modern tasting room, a stunning square glass table stands in
by natural gullies. The path sinks inexorably into the fragrant, thick the centre of the room and serves as a skylight for the maturing cellar
and dense scrubland. Welcome to the land of the Clos Teddi estate. located ten metres below.
The wine cellar, built on the plateau, is surrounded by green vines,

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