(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans

eyewitness travel



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ORLEANS





























































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eyewitness travel



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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL




NEW


ORLEANS







Main Contributor Marylin Wood






















































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Contents

How to Use
this Guide 6
Project Editor Alejandro Lajud
Project Co-ordinator Luis Guillermo Coda Garrido
Art Editor Victor Hugo Garnica
Editors Maria Isabel Amador, Karla Sánchez
Designers Carlos Muñoz, Alejandro Lajud, Victor Hugo Garnica
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Senior Publishing Manager Louise Bostock Lang
Publishing Manager Kate Poole
Director of Publishing Gillian Allan
Editors Stephanie Driver, Mary Sutherland, Andrew Szudek
Map Co-ordinators David Pugh, Casper Morris
DTP Co-ordinators Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk
Production Controller Joanna Bull
Main Contributor
Marilyn Wood
Maps
Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes and James Macdonald at Mapping Ideas Ltd.
One of the impressive floats at Mardi
Photographers Gras World
Julio Rochon, Jaime Baldovinos
Illustrators Introducing
Ricardo Almazan, Ricardo Almazan Jr.
New Orleans
Printed and bound in China
First published in Great Britain in 2002 Great Days
by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK in New Orleans 10
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Putting New Orleans
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2005, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017 on the Map 14
Copyright 2002, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company The History of
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a New Orleans 16
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner. New Orleans
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. at a Glance 32
ISBN 978-0-24125-681-7
New Orleans
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage; ie the “first floor”
is at ground level. Through the Year 42






The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
A striking white tomb at the Lafayette
Front cover main image: Building with ornate ironwork in the French Quarter Cemetery in Garden District
St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square at dusk


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New Orleans
Area by Area

Bourbon Street 48

Royal Street 50
Upper French Quarter 52

Lower French Quarter,
Marigny, and Treme 68

Warehouse and Central
Business Districts 86
View of Artillery Park and Moon Walk on the Mississippi River
Garden District
and Uptown 100 Travelers’ Travel Information
Needs 210
Mid-City 116
Where to Stay 162 New Orleans
Street Finder 218
Where to Eat
and Drink 168

Shopping in
New Orleans 182
Entertainment in Vegetables and fruit for sale in the
French Market
New Orleans 190
Hotel with a cast-iron cornstalk fencing Index 231
Survival Guide
Three Guided Acknowledgments 241
Walks 130
Practical Phrase Book
Beyond New Orleans 138 Information 202 243



















St. Charles Avenue Streetcar




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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This DK Eyewitness Travel Guide helps and it covers all of the important sights, with
you to get the most from your visit to New photographs, maps, and illustrations. Beyond
Orleans. It provides detailed information New Orleans covers nearby Cajun Country, as
and expert recommendations. well as the historic plantations.
The chapter titled Introducing New Orleans Information about hotels, restaurants, shops
maps the city and the region, and sets it in its and markets, entertainment, and sports is
historical and cultural context; it also describes found in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
the most salient events of the year. New Orleans section has advice on everything including
at a Glance is an overview of the city’s main New Orleans’ medical services, telephones,
attractions. New Orleans Area by Area starts on banking, post offices, and the public
page 46. This is the main sightseeing section, transportation system.


Finding Your Way Around New Orleans
The city has been divided into five sightseeing numbered and clearly located on an Area Map.
areas, each with its own section in the guide. After this comes a Street-by-Street Map focusing
Each section opens with a portrait of the area, on the most interesting part of the area. Finding
summing up its character and history, and listing your way about the area section is made easy by
all the sights to be covered. The sights are a numbering system.


Introduction to the area
NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA  53
UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 1For easy reference, the sights in each
The French Quarter is synonymous with (meaning Old Square) is quintessential area are numbered and plotted on
New Orleans. The original 20 blocks were New Orleans. The colorful Creole-style
laid out around present-day Jackson cottages featuring jalousie-shuttered
Square in 1721. The Upper French Quarter windows stand flush along the sidewalks.
runs from Iberville Street to St. Ann and There are also several Spanish-style an area map. To help the visitor, this
includes the busiest blocks of Decatur, buildings decorated with lacy iron galleries.
Chartres, Royal, and Bourbon streets. The This iconic neighborhood escaped with
last of these is particularly lively, offering very little wind damage from Hurricane map also shows the main streetcar
several bars that promise rollicking good Katrina and experienced no flooding in
times. Architecturally, the Vieux Carré the days that followed. and bus stops, and parking areas. The
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Theaters Restaurants p174
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, 5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré 1 Antoine’s area’s key sights are listed by category,
and Presbytère pp58–9 2 Arnaud’s
4 Pontalba Buildings Parks and Gardens 3 Bayona
1 Jackson Square
6 Pirate’s Alley 4 Camellia Grill
7 Père Antoine Alley and Boat Trips 5 Doris Metropolitan such as Museums and Historic Places.
St. Anthony’s Garden t Steamboat Natchez 6 Galatoire’s
q Louisiana Supreme 7 K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
Court Building 8 Nola
w Napoleon House 9 Pelican Club
Museums and Galleries 10 Rib Room
11 SoBou
3 The 1850 House
8 Museum of Death
9 Hermann-Grima
Historic House
0 Historic New Orleans
Collection pp62–3
e New Orleans B U R G U N D Y S T R E E T O R L E A N S A V E N U E
Pharmacy Museum N O R T H R A M P A R T S T R E E T A locator map shows where
S T. A N N S T R E E T
r Jean Lafitte National S T. P E T E R S T R E E T
B O UR B O N S T R E E T
Historical Park
Visitor Center D A U P HI N E S T R E E T R O Y A L S T R E E T you are in relation to other
B U R G U N D Y S T R E E T C O N T I S T R E E T C H A R T R E S S T D E C A T U R S T R E E T WASHINGTON PARK areas in the city center.
T O U L O U S E S T R E E T
ARTILLERY
S T . LO U I S S T R E E T
R O Y A L S T R E E T Stars indicate the
B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T
0 meters 200 I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T C H A R T R E S S T R E E T M i s s i s s i p p i sites that no visitor
D E C A T U R S T R E E T N O R T H P E T E R S S T C L A Y S T N O R T H F R O N T S T PARK should miss.
0 yards 200 CO NT I S T WOLDENBERG
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
See also Street Finder maps
3, 4, & 5
For keys to symbols see back flap
The historic St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square 54  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER  55
Street-by-Street: Upper French Quarter 2 . St. Louis Cathedral, MID-CITY LOWER FRENCH QUARTER
Cabildo, and Presbytère
This is the heart of the French Quarter, containing a These were the most important
religious and administrative
striking and harmonious collection of buildings. The lively buildings in the French and UPPER FRENCH
Jackson Square initially served as a military parade ground, Spanish periods. QUARTER
or place d’armes, where troops were trained and drilled, WAREHOUSE M i ssiss ippi
executions carried out, and public meetings held. The DISTRICT & CBD
Cathedral, Cabildo, and Presbytère face the square. It was
redesigned in 1848, when Baroness Pontalba built the two Street musicians Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 3, 4, & 5
elegant apartment buildings on the upriver and downriver play in front of
Each area has color-coded sides of the square. An impressive statue of General the cathedral.
Jackson was also unveiled in the center of the square,
thumb tabs. where artists now display their work. 7 Père Antoine Alley and
St. Anthony’s Garden
This garden was a favorite local
dueling place in the 19th century.
Tennesee Williams
wrote A Streetcar
Named Desire in an
apartment at 632
St. Peter Street.
A suggested route takes in some of 5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré S T . A N N S T R e e T
This theater, established in 1916, moved
the most interesting and attractive to its current location in 1919. The TOULOUSe ST
building is a replica of the original.
streets in the area. C H A R T R e S S T R e e T W i L k i N S O N S T ST. PeTeR ST displays opulent furniture
3 . The 1850 House
This small museum
and decorations that
convey the middle-class
lifestyles of the
The Omni Royal antebellum era.
Orleans hotel (see
p166) is constructed 1 . Jackson Square
on the site of the 1836 A magnificent statue of
St. Louis Hotel. General Jackson takes
center stage in
Street-by-Street map key Suggested route d e C A T U R S T R e e T where artists
the square,
hang their
works “on
2 This gives a bird’s-eye view of the fence”.
interesting and important parts 0 meters 30 30
0 yards
of each sightseeing area. The w Napoleon House 4 Pontalba Buildings
The most beloved bar in the French
numbering of the entries ties For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81 Quarter is devoted to Napoleon’s The handsome Pontalba apartments, built
memory. His portraits and other
in 1848 for $302,000, are located on the
memorabilia adorn the walls.
upriver and downriver sides of the square.
in with the area map and the
fuller description of the sights
on the pages that follow.
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

New Orleans Area Map
The colored areas shown on this New Orleans Area by Area
Most of the sights described in this guide lie within the five
areas shown on the map below. Each of these areas has its
map (see inside front cover) are the own chapter. The center of New Orleans – the Upper and Mid-City
Lower French quarters, and the Warehouse and Central
Business Districts – is relatively compact and easy to get
five main sightseeing areas used around, and the suburbs are served by convenient
transport links. As one of the busiest international ports
in the country, the city is constantly growing; the sights
in this guide. Each is covered in a outside the city limits are described in Beyond New Orleans Quarter, Marigny,
(see pp138–59).
Lower French
full chapter in New Orleans Area and treme
Pages 68–85
by Area (see pp46–137). They are MAriGNy
highlighted on other maps treMe QUArter
LOwer
FreNCh
throughout the book. In New Mid-City 0 kilometer 1 Upper FreNCh
QUArter
Orleans at a Glance, for example, Pages 116–129 0 mile 1 CeNtrAL BUsiNess
wArehOUse ANd
they help you locate the top distriCts Upper French Quarter
Pages 52–67
sights (see pp38–9).
GArdeN distriCt
ANd UptOwN
M i s s i s s i p p i
Garden district warehouse and
and Uptown Central Business
Pages 100–115 districts
Pages 86–99
Numbers refer to each Practical information provides everything you
sight’s position on the need to know to visit each sight. Map references
area map and its place pinpoint the sight’s location on the Street Finder
in the chapter. map (see pp218–26).
Detailed information
56  Ne w Orlea N s a rea b y area Upper Fre N c h Q U ar ter  57
3All the important sights in New Orleans
1 Jackson Square and everyday artifacts of the
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. period. A gift shop occupies are described individually. They are
the ground floor.
Today, an attractive and lively
meeting place, this square was 4 Pontalba
named the Place d’Armes in the
early French colony, when it Buildings listed in order, following the numbering
was little more than a muddy St. Peter and St. Ann Sts. Map 5 D2.
field. Here, the troops were v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. - =
drilled, criminals were placed
in the stocks, and executions In 1848, Baroness Micaela on the area map at the start of
were carried out. In 1850, it Pontalba supervised the
was renamed for the hero building of these block-long
of the Battle of New Orleans apartments flanking the the section. Practical information
(see p19), after the Baroness Jazz band playing in Jackson Square uptown and downtown sides
Pontalba paid for its of Jackson Square. They were
beautification and laid out The park is landscaped in a 2 St. Louis erected for over $300,000, and
the gardens and pathways radial pattern, with walkways Cathedral, Cabildo, at the time they were con sidered Interior of Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré includes a map reference, opening
of the square as they exist stemming out from the center the best and the largest
today. Under her auspices, and there are plenty of benches and Presbytère apartments of their kind. Lower Pontalba Building, but building where Faulkner wrote
the Pelanne brothers to sit and enjoy the charm See pp58–9. At the age of 15, Micaela had in 1922, the current site was his first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
designed the hand some of the historical houses. married the foppish aristocrat bought and was used for the in 1925. hours, and telephone numbers. The
wrought-iron fence Outside the park, diverse Celestin Pontalba, a distant first American productions of
that encloses the artists rent space and 3 The 1850 House cousin, and moved to Paris. Eugene O’Neill’s Beyond the 7 Père Antoine
square. At the hang their works on 523 St. Ann St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568- There, her father-in-law tried to Horizon and Oscar Wilde’s Lady
center stands a the enclosing fence, 6968. @ 5, 55. Open 10am–4:30pm force her to sign over her entire Windermere’s Fan. It is a pretty Alley and St. key to the symbols is on the back flap.
statue of General and there are plenty Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 estate. When she refused, he building with a beguil ing Anthony’s Garden
Andrew Jackson of artists waiting to attempted to kill her, but courtyard and fountain. Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
astride a rearing draw your portrait In the Lower Pontalba Build ing, succeeded only in shooting In 2011, the board of directors
horse, which was Water vessel in the or caricature. On the this museum recreates an off two of her fingers. decided to convert part of the This alley is named for one
sculp ted by Clark 1850 House flagstones around antebellum apartment. The She courageously separated building into an eatery due to of the city’s most beloved
Mills for $30,000. the square, tarot three-story residence above the from her husband in 1848 and the severe financial problems clergy men, Father Antonio de
The inscription, “The Union card readers, jazz musicians, ground-floor space is accessed returned to New Orleans. The faced by the theater. The Sedella (Père Antoine), who
must and shall be preserved,” and clowns entertain visitors by a dramatic circular staircase. baroness, like her father the restaurant is run by the famous served as pastor of St. Louis
on the plinth was added by throughout the week. There are The bedrooms contain all philanthropist Don Andrés Dickie Brennan. Cathedral for 40 years. He was
Union General Benjamin also shops on the ground level the innovations of their day, Almonester y Rojas, was a The theater hosts an annual loved for his compassionate
“Beast” Butler, when he of the Pontalba Apartments, including walk-in closets and developer. With plans brought season of perfor mances from ministry to the poor, whom he
occupied the city during the selling gifts, clothing, candy, private bathrooms. Also back from Paris, she proceeded September to June; it is advised assiduously fed and clothed.
American Civil War (see p20). and ice cream. displayed are decorative arts to build apart ments like the you call ahead if you wish to The fenced garden, once
ones she had seen in Paris. buy tickets. It also acts as a a popular dueling ground,
Architects James Gallier and head quarters during the features a great sculpture of
Henry Howard drew up the Tennessee Williams New the Sacred Heart. In the early
plans. The design of the initials Orleans Literary Festival and morning and evening, the scent The visitors’ checklist gives
A and P (for Almonester and Writers’ Conference. of sweet olive lingers in the air.
Pontalba) in the cast-iron
railings of the galleries and
balconies is attributed to one of 6 Pirate’s Alley all the practical information
the baroness’s sons, an artist. Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55.
5 Le Petit Théâtre Although it is named after the needed to plan your visit.
famous pirate brothers, Jean
du Vieux Carré and Pierre Lafitte (see p19), there
is no evidence here that this
616 St. Peter St. Map 5 D2. was once a pirates’ haunt or a
Tel 522-2081. @ 5, 55. Box Office: slave market. Today, the alley’s
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat.
Closed public hols. & classic bohemian atmosphere
and open-air cafés are what
This small theater was the make it worth seeking out.
brainchild of a group of actors The Faulkner House, a 58  ne w orleans area b y area upper french qu ar ter  59
called the Drawing Room bookstore where the shelves
Players, who came together in are lined with William Faulkner
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,
1916 under the management first editions as well as works Ceiling Murals
of Mrs. Oscar Nixon. Their first by other major Southern Faulkner House, a bookstore in ViSiTorS’ CHECKLiST
The Pontalba Buildings, the upriver side of Jackson Square theater was located in the authors, is located in the Pirate’s Alley Painted by Alsatian artist
and Presbytère Practical Information
Erasme Humbrecht in
For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81 1872, the murals portray Jackson Square. Map 5 D2.
different biblical stories.
this complex of buildings was the most important ensemble in Tel 525-9585 (St. Louis Cathedral);
the early colony. the cabildo, designed by Guilberto Guillemard, 568-6968 (Cabildo and
was built and financed in 1795 by Don andrés almonester y daily (St. Louis Cathedral);
Presby tère). open 10am–4:30pm
rojas. It served as a capitol for the legislative assembly of the 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun (Cabildo
spanish colonial government, and subsequently as the city hall. and Presbytère). Closed all major
from 1853 to 1911, it housed the state supreme court. the casa holidays (Cabildo and Presbytère).
& Cabildo and Presbytère.
curial, or presbytère, was built between 1794 and 1813, and 5 St. Louis Cathedral, regular
served as a courthouse until 1911. today, both buildings are services daily. 7 8 =
flagship properties of the louisiana state Museum. two earlier ∑ saintlouiscathedral.org
churches on the site of the st. louis cathedral were destroyed, . Main Altar ∑ lsm.crt.state.la.us
the first by a hurricane in 1722, the second by a fire in 1788. The carved-wood Baroque altars Transport
were constructed in Ghent,
the current building was begun in 1789 and dedicated as a Belgium, and brought to the v St. Charles Ave and Canal
Facades of important buildings cathedral in 1794. It has been substantially modified since then. cathedral in pieces.
streetcars. @ 5, 55, 81.
are often shown to help you
recognize them quickly.
Cathedral Dome
A great mural of St. Louis announcing the Seventh Crusade
was painted above the altar.
Mardi Gras Exhibits
Pieces of floats, colorful
costumes, and historic
photos bring Mardi Gras
New Orleans’ major sights to life all year round.
4Historic buildings are KEY
dissected to reveal their Napoleon’s Death Mask 1 Cabildo
2 Stained-glass windows with
figures of Catholic saints adorn the
cathedral’s interior.
interiors; museums and The museum’s collection 3 Presbytère
includes a casting of
4 St. Louis Cathedral
Napoleon’s face made
5 The clock bell, given the name
after the French emperor’s
galleries have color-coded death in 1821. . Sala Capitular “Victoire” by Père Antoine, was cast in . Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond
Paris. It has tolled hourly since 1819.
The Louisiana Purchase (see p19)
6 The steeples, the portico, and
floor plans to help you find For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81 set was in place at the time. Hurricane Katrina and storm science.
was signed in this room; this desk
the pilasters were added in 1851.
The Presbytère houses exhibits and artifacts on
the most important exhibits.
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INTRODUCING


NEW ORLEANS





Great Days in New Orleans 10–13

Putting New Orleans
on the Map 14–15

The History of New Orleans 16–31
New Orleans at a Glance 32–41
New Orleans Through the Year 42–45













































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10  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

GREAT DAYS IN
NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans has always been a city where and then by duration of stay. They cover
many cultures mingle. Today, that heritage the French Quarter, elegant Uptown, the
is reflected in the diversity of things to exciting visual and performing arts scene,
do and see. The following itineraries are and entertainment for families. Important
designed to provide a flavor of life in this sights have page references so you can check
exuberant city. Some of the city’s best for more details. The price guides include
attactions are arranged first thematically cost of travel, food, and admission charges.


French Quarter and now a charming café and
Mississippi Cruise bar that oozes typical French
Quarter ambience.
Two adults allow at least $125
• Beignets for breakfast Afternoon
• Mardi Gras exhibit Head to the riverfront and the
Steamboat Natchez (see pp66–
• Lunch at Napoleon House
7) for a 2-hour cruise (departs
• Cruise on the Natchez and at 2:30pm), with calliope music,
a Bourbon stroll fascinating narratives on the
city, and views of the busy
waterway. Back on land, a short
Morning walk from the dock, the shops,
Start the day with a classic crafts booths, and flea market
coffee and beignets (donuts) stalls of the French Market
breakfast at the Café du (see p72) are excellent Stunning architecture at the Contemporary
Monde (see p78). Cross for browsing. Return Arts Center
Decatur Street to to Jackson Square
Jackson Square and hire a carriage Style, Art, and
(see p56) to watch for a ride through Creole Culture
street performers the Quarter and
entertain. Visit the the intriguing local Two adults allow at least $120
Mardi Gras exhibit at architecture. Finally, • Explore the Arts District
the Presbytère (see Oysters, at the Acme stroll along Bourbon • Creole history, art and
pp58–9), a landmark Oyster House Street (see pp48–9), antiques on Royal Street
state museum. Then, and enjoy its neon-lit,
amble down Chartres Street bawdy glory before heading • An evening at the theater
to Napoleon House (see p61) to the Acme Oyster House
for lunch. This mansion, built (see p176) for oysters or
for the French emperor, is gumbo (stew). Morning
Breakfast at the popular
Camellia Grill (see p174), a lively
diner with a true NOLA (New
Orleans, Louisiana) experience.
Catch the St. Charles Avenue
Streetcar (see pp106–7) or take a
cab to Lee Circle (see p98)
where, within a three-block
radius, you can happily
overdose on art at the Ogden
Museum of Southern Art (see
p98), the Contemporary Arts
Center (see p99), and Julia Street
galleries, which are clustered
together in the district.
A few blocks away, in an old
river warehouse on S. Peters
and Fulton streets, you’ll find
Garlic, and plenty of it, at the French market restaurants aplenty, offering
Plan de la Ville/La Nouvelle Orléans/Capitale de la Province de la Louisiane, by Thierry, 1755



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GREA T D A Y S IN NE W ORLEANS  11


a variety of lunch options,
including tapas, sushi, and
Mexican food.
Afternoon
Head back to the French
Quarter for the Historic
New Orleans Collection
(see pp62–3), where exhibits
illustrate Creole life in the
19th century. Stroll along
Royal Street (see pp50–51),
taking in its galleries, antiques
stores, and performers and A group of jazz players on Jackson Square
musicians found on nearly
every corner for six blocks. Having explored the maze of A Fun Day Out for
If you want to experience tombs at Lafayette Cemetery the Family
Creole fine dining, (see p104), return to
stop at Galatoire’s the streetcar route Family of 4 allow at least $150
(see p174), an upscale and board the next • Clowns and caricatures
bistro on Bourbon Uptown-bound car • A streetcar ride to the zoo
Street. Culture fans to Audubon Park (see
will have a choice of p113). Walk through the • Swamps and rare alligators
a touring Broadway lush grounds, or cross • History from the back of
production at the the street to visit the a carriage
Saenger Theater campuses of Tulane
(see p97), or a classic and Loyola universities
at Le Petit Théâtre A streetcar named (see p112). Walk, or hop Morning
(see p57). St. Charles onto another Uptown- Start in the French Quarter,
bound streetcar, to at Jackson Square (see p56),
The Historic Charm the Riverbend (see p113), an where clowns, artists, and street
of the Streetcar outdoor recreation area. If performers put on a show for
hungry, grab a counter seat all. A caricature drawn here
Two adults allow at least $75 at Camellia Grill (see p174), a makes for a unique souvenir.
• Go up and down town on charming retro diner. Then, head across Decatur
stately streetcars Street to check out the dance
• Admire mansions and Afternoon troupes and other acts in the
tombs in the Garden After crossing Carrollton performance area next to
District Avenue, window shop along the Jax Brewery. Get on the
bustling Maple Street, with its St. Charles Avenue Streetcar
• Lunch in the Riverbend
fine book stores and upscale on Canal Street and take a
• Cocktails at sunset boutiques. Return to St. Charles leisurely 30-minute ride to the
Avenue to board a downtown- acclaimed Audubon Zoo (see
bound streetcar to the grand pp114–15). If you get hungry,
Morning Columns Hotel (see p165), and grab a bite at one of the zoo’s
Get your $1.25 fare ready for reward yourself with a cocktail cafés (you’ll find the swamp
the first stop of the historic at the Victorian Bar, either on section’s popular eatery is
St. Charles Avenue Streetcar its regal porch or inside at the heaving). While there, check out
(see pp106–107) at the corner ornate bar. the Louisiana swamp exhibit
of Canal and Carondelet streets. of local wildlife, especially the
Passengers travel at a steady rare white alligator.
pace past mansions and
towering oaks. Disembark at Afternoon
Washington Avenue and head Jump aboard the streetcar
into the Garden District for the return trip. Back in the
(see pp102–3), where you’ll French Quarter, take a carriage
see opulent homes and ride from the Decatur Street
splendid gardens that bear side of lively Jackson Square
witness to the wealth of the (see p56) and learn some local
antebellum South. Drop into history. End the afternoon
the lobby of the renowned by grabbing a muffuletta (a
Commander’s Palace (see p179) substantial sandwich) at the
restaurant to pick up a free A predatory jaguar in the lush jungle at popular Central Grocery
guide to historic homes. Audubon Zoo (see p78) – you’ve earned it.




010-011_EW_New_Orl.indd 11 05/08/16 3:48 pm

12  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS


2 Days in New Orleans at the world-class Audubon permanent collection, before
Aquarium of the Americas (see returning on the Canal Streetcar.
pp92–3). Next, step over to the
• Explore the heart of the Canal Street Ferry terminal for a Day 2
French Quarter ride to Old Algiers Point. Take an Morning Explore the beautiful
• Ride America’s oldest hour exploring this quaint neigh- Garden District with the best
streetcar bor hood, admiring the cityscape antebellum homes in America
before returning on the ferry. by riding the St. Charles Avenue
• Experience New Orleans
from the river Streetcar. See the Gothic Revival
3 Days in New Orleans Briggs-Staub House (see pp104–
5) and the mansion at the Louise
S. McGehee School (see p105).
Day 1 • Tour City Park and the Loop back along Coliseum Street
Morning Get to know 18th Botanical Gardens towards Lafayette Cemetery
century New Orleans with • Experience the adventure (see p104) and Commander's
exhibitions in the Cabildo (see of Audubon Zoo Palace, former brothel now a
pp58–9). Then, proceed past • Discover the Mississippi restaurant. Stop here for lunch.
musicians and fortune-tellers to with a Steamboat
the Presbytère (see pp58–9) for Natchez dinner cruise Afternoon Reboard the St.
some carnival culture at the Charles Streetcar and continue
Mardi Gras museum. Stroll Uptown to Audubon Park (see
through the beautiful gardens p113) and see the grand Tulane
in Jackson Square (see p56), Day 1 and Loyola Universities (see
passing the statue of General Morning Begin by perusing the p112). Then, walk among the
Andrew Jackson towards the flea markets in the French Market oaks in Audubon Park (see
French Market (see p72), which (see p72). Continue towards p113) to the famous Audubon
has existed on its current site Jackson Square (see p56), Zoo (see pp114–15).
since 1791. surveying the local works of art
displayed along the park fence. Day 3
Afternoon After exploring the Make your way to the famous Morning Stroll down Royal
French Market (see p72) with St. Louis Cathedral (see pp58–9) Street to Antoine Peychaud’s
its open-air stalls, head to the then head next door to the Pharmacy, the birth place of the
Farmer’s Market to sample Presbytère (see pp58–9) for a cocktail. Next, enjoy a French
local culinary specialties. Hurricane Katrina display. Quarter carriage ride, then
Starting at the restored Gallier move on to see some 19th
House (see p74), take a stroll down Afternoon After lunch, hop on century grandeur at the Herman-
Royal Street (see pp50–51), the Esplanade Avenue bus to Grimma House (see p60).
which is lined with art galleries Mid-City and walk along the
and antique shops. Work your beautiful Bayou St. John (see Afternoon Take a walk down
way to the other end of Royal p121). Continue past Pitot Bourbon Street, stopping off at
Street and visit the interactive House (see p121) and French Pat O’Brien’s bar (see pp191–2)
Historic New Orleans Collection Creole homes, crossing the along the way to Lafitte’s
(see pp62–3), a must see for Magnolia Bridge to City Park. Blacksmith Shop (see p80), the
visitors of all ages. Bring the kids to Story land (see country’s oldest tavern. Stroll
p120) or stroll through the along the Moon Walk (see p79),
Day 2 Botanical Gardens (see p120). and find the Lighthouse Ticket
Morning Start your day with a Then, visit the New Orleans Office to book a Dinner Jazz
ride on the historic St. Charles Museum of Art (see pp122–5) Cruise aboard the Steamboat
Avenue Streetcar (see pp106–7) and wander through their Natchez (see pp66–7).
to the charming Garden District
(see pp102–3) and wander
amongst the antebellum
mansions. Swing past the famous
cornstalk fence at Colonel Short’s
Villa (see pp108–9) on your way
to Lafayette Cemetery (see p104)
to see the tombs. Then, meander
past the fragrant gardens to the
Brevard-Wisdom-Rice House
(see p109) before head ing to
Magazine Street for a bite.
Afternoon Spend the day along
the Mississippi River, beginning Interior of the world famous St. Louis Cathedral




012-013_EW_New_Orl.indd 12 05/08/16 3:56 pm

GREA T D A Y S IN NE W ORLEANS  13


5 Days in New Orleans

• Experience the diversity
of New Orleans culture at
the Presbytère
• Admire works of art at the
Museum of Art
• Explore the swamps and
see alligators in the Jean
Laffite Preserve


Day 1 The Presbytère houses exhibitions on Mardi Gras and Hurricane Katrina
Morning Begin your day with
coffee and beignets at Café du Day 3 exhibits at the Jean Lafitte
Monde (see p78), then pick up a Morning Spend time exploring National Historic Park Visitor
souvenir while walking through the Garden District (see pp102–3) Center (see p61) on Decatur
the French Market (see p72) to by riding the St. Charles Streetcar Street, arriving early for the free
the Old Ursuline Convent (see (see pp106–7). You will snake your walking tour. Next, stroll the
p72–3), the oldest building in way past the Women’s Guild boardwalk trail in the alligator-
the Mississippi Valley. Next, head Opera House (see p108) to the filled swamp in the park’s
over to the Woldenberg oldest house in the neighbor- Barataria Preserve, just a short
Riverfront Park (see p90) for a hood, Toby’s Corner (see p108), drive across the river, or buy
leisurely stroll before lunch. and fine Italianate archi tecture at tickets for one of the many
the Musson-Bell House (see p109). swamp boat tours, most
Afternoon Discover marine Get back on at Washington offering transportation from
ecology at the Aquarium of Avenue for more sites or head downtown hotels.
the Americas (see pp92–3) down to Magazine Street for
before hitting Bourbon Street lunch and ride the bus back. Afternoon Step back in time
(see pp48–9) for a cocktail at the at the eclectic New Orleans
Old Absinthe House. Next, learn Afternoon Get your shopping Pharmacy Museum (see p61)
some French Quarter history on fix at the designer stores inside and see tools and techniques of
a carriage ride, or see the sacred the Canal Place (see p96) shopping the 19th century. Then, stop in
Congo Square (see p82) in center, or the more affordable for a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon
Armstrong Park (see p81). Outlet Collection at Riverwalk House (see p61) before finishing
(see p91). Then, pass the fountain the day with a stroll down Royal
Day 2 in Spanish Plaza (see p90) and Street to the Historic New
Morning Beat the crowds by get tickets for the 2pm Harbor Orleans Collection (see pp62–3)
touring the Jackson Square (see Jazz Cruise aboard the Steamboat of old photographs of the city.
p56) landmarks early: start with Natchez (see pp66–7).
the cultural exhibitions in the Day 5
Presbytère (see pp58–9), then Day 4 Morning Explore Uptown with a
enjoy a quiet moment inside St. Morning Learn about the streetcar ride to Tulane University
Louis Cathedral before entering wetlands with interactive (see p112) to see the pottery in
the former seat of government the Newcomb Art Museum (see
at the Cabildo (see pp58–9). p112–13). Next, make your way
Catch the performances by street through Audubon Park (see
musicians before stopping for p113) and wander around
lunch at Pirate's Alley (see p57). Audubon Zoo (see pp114–15),
grabbing lunch before returning
Afternoon Spend the rest of on the Magazine Street bus.
the day in Mid-City; ride the
Canal Streetcar to City Park (see Afternoon Hop off the bus and
pp118–19) for a spin on the spend a few hours in the
100-year-old wooden carousel National WWII Museum (see
or amble through the Sculpture p99) with their state-of-the-art
Garden and admire the fine art Solomon Victory Theater and
collections at the New Orleans numerous displays including
Museum of Art (see pp122–5). airplanes and boats. End the day
Catch the Esplanade Bus back, with a relaxing, sunset ride on
and if there’s still time, visit the the Canal Street Ferry across the
Degas House (see p128). St. Charles Avenue Streetcar river to Algiers Point and back.




012-013_EW_New_Orl.indd 13 05/08/16 3:56 pm

14  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS
Covington
Putting New Orleans on the Map

New Orleans is located in southeast Louisiana, between
Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi River. The airport
handles international and domestic flights, and there
are good road and rail links to the rest of the country. Prior
to Hurricane Katrina, in August 2005, the population of
central New Orleans was approximately 485,000. Many
New Orleanians lost their homes as a result of the terrible
floods and had to move away. By 2014, the population Lake
had rebounded to around 385,000. Pontchartrain

Baton 55
Pontchartrain Causeway
Rouge
10 Frenier

61 La Place
Garyville
Gramercy Lakefront
44 Airport 90
Lutcher M i s s i s s i p p i 61 10 Kenner
Paulina Reserve 47
Wallace 90
Killona Norco International Airport
Armstrong
Vacherie 310 Metairie 61 Lake
18 River Borgne
Hahnville Destrehan 48 Ridge
St. Rose Chalmette
18 New Algiers
Harahan
Lac des Orleans M ississippi Meraux
20 South Allemands 90
Vacherie Luling Avondale Gretna 39
310 Mimosa Park 90 Marrero Harvey Terrytown 46
Boutte Westwego 23 Poydras
Paradis Belle St. Bernard 46
Kraemer Estelle Chasse 39
Chackbay Lake Reggio
Cataouatche
Choctaw
Des Allemands Couba Dalcour
Island Lake Lery
Lac
Boeuf Bayou Lafourche Bertrandville
Lafourche Willis
Crown Point Delacroix
Point Jesuit
90 Bend
St. Charles Lake
Schriever Barataria Belair Petit
Raceland Lake Naomi 39
1 Salvador
Lafitte
Carlisle
23
90 Clotilda Phoenix
Ironton
Davant
24 Lake Myrtle
Fields Lockport Grove
1 Bayou Lafourche
Lake Magnolia
M ississippi
Houma Laurier Bohemia
Larose
Intracoastal Waterway
Diamond
0 kilometers 10
24 Cut Off
0 miles 10
014-015_EW_New_Orl.indd 14 05/08/16 3:48 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Orientations template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 6th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

PUT TING NE W ORLEANS ON THE M AP  15
Covington
Greater New Orleans 25 21 11 59
10 Wiggins
61 Amite Tickfaw Bogalusa Poplarville 26
Zachary 16 Amite 21
Baker 25 49
Port 55 Hammond Picayune
Allen Baton 12 Covington
Rouge Gulfport
10 Biloxi
1 Mississippi Area of main map Bay
Plaquemine 90 St Louis
Armstrong Lake
Lake International Borgne Gulf of
Airport
Mexico
Pontchartrain 1
Morgan
Baton 55 City
Rouge 90
Pontchartrain Causeway 1
10 Frenier
61 La Place Grand Isle Venice Mississippi
Garyville Port
Gramercy Lakefront Fourchon 0 kilometers 50
44 Airport 90
Lutcher M i s s i s s i p p i 61 10 Kenner Gulf of Mexico 0 miles 50
Paulina Reserve 47
Wallace 90
Killona Norco International Airport
Armstrong
Vacherie 310 Metairie 61 Lake
18 River Borgne
Hahnville Destrehan 48 Ridge
St. Rose Chalmette
18 New Algiers
Harahan
Lac des Orleans M ississippi Meraux
20 South Allemands 90
Vacherie Luling Avondale Gretna 39
310 Mimosa Park 90 Marrero Harvey Terrytown 46
Boutte Westwego 23 Poydras
Paradis Belle St. Bernard 46
Kraemer Estelle Chasse 39
Chackbay Lake Reggio
Cataouatche
Choctaw
Des Allemands Couba Dalcour
Island Lake Lery
Lac
Boeuf Bayou Lafourche Bertrandville
Lafourche Willis
Crown Point Delacroix
Point Jesuit
90 Bend
St. Charles Lake
Schriever Barataria Belair Petit
Raceland Lake Naomi 39
1 Salvador
Lafitte
Carlisle
23
90 Clotilda Phoenix
Ironton
Davant
24 Lake Key Myrtle
Fields Lockport Grove
Urban area
1
Bayou
Bayou Lafourche
Freeway Lake M ississippi
Houma Major road Laurier Magnolia Bohemia
Larose
Intracoastal Waterway Minor road
Diamond
Railroad
24 Cut Off
For keys to symbols see back flap
014-015_EW_New_Orl.indd 15 05/08/16 3:48 pm

016-017_EW_New_Orl.indd 16 05/08/16 3:56 pm

INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS  17

THE HISTORY OF

NEW ORLEANS


In 1541, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto discovered the Mississippi River, but
it was the Frenchman Robert de La Salle who sailed down the river for the first time
in 1682. He erected a cross somewhere near the location of modern New Orleans,
claiming it and the whole of Louisiana for his king, Louis XIV.

French Colony colony diminished, criminals and
The first French settlements were prostitutes were deported from France
established on the Gulf Coast at to New Orleans, the first 88 women
Biloxi in 1709. It took another 19 years arriving from La Salpêtrière, a Paris
before Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de house of correction, in 1721. The first
Bienville, established a settlement on slaves had arrived a year earlier, and in
the Lower Mississippi at New Orleans. 1727, the Ursuline Sisters arrived and
In 1721, the engineer Adrien founded their convent. The Company
de Pauger laid out the French Quarter of the West speculative bubble
behind the levees that had been eventually burst and Law’s company
constructed. Two years later, the collapsed. In 1731, the king resumed
capital of the colony was moved control and sent Bienville back to
from Biloxi to New Orleans. govern and to quash the rebelling
However, the colony did not prosper, Chickasaw and Natchez Indians.
and the French Regent, Philippe Commerce began to grow, despite the
d’Orléans, turned over control to a restrictions that the French had imposed
private financier and speculator, on trade with England, Spain, Mexico,
Scotsman John Law, who floated Florida, and the West Indies. Much of it
stock in his Company of the West was illegal. By 1763, river traffic had
and promoted Louisiana as a utopia, grown so prodigiously that exports
which it was not. The natives were (indigo, sugar, rum, skins, and fur)
hostile, the land was a swamp, and totaled $304,000.
the climate pestilential, but, lured by By that time, the contest for the
Law’s advertisements, thousands of control of North America had begun
Germans and Swiss left for Louisiana in earnest; in 1755, the Seven Years’
and, if they survived the perilous ocean War had broken out between Britain
crossing, settled along the Mississippi. and France, Spain, and other
Whenever immigration to the new European powers.


1682 La Salle explores the 1720 The first 1727 The Ursuline 1763 Exports top
Mississippi and claims shipment of slaves Sisters arrive in $300,000
Louisiana for Louis XIV arrives on July 7 New Orleans

1550 1650 1750
1541 Spanish explorer 1718 Jean Baptiste Le 1721 88 women arrive from a
Hernando de Soto Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, house of correction. Adrien de
discovers the establishes a settlement Pauger lays out the Vieux Carré
Mississippi River
C. de la Motte, an aristocrat of the French colony
Americans take control of the city after the Louisiana Purchase



016-017_EW_New_Orl.indd 17 05/08/16 3:56 pm

18  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

















St. Louis Cathedral, flanked by the Cabildo (left) and Presbytère, built during Spanish rule
Spanish City allowing citizens to trade with countries
The Seven Years’ War ended in 1763, and other than Spain. In 1788, a fire on Good
Louis XV signed the Treaty of Paris, which Friday, March 21, destroyed 856 buildings.
ended French ambitions in North America. The destruction was so extensive that most
Before signing, however, he had secretly of the French-style buildings were lost.
ceded Louisiana to his cousin, the Spanish After the fire, the Spanish decreed that all
king, Charles III. The French settlers in buildings of two stories or more were to
Louisiana were outraged at the news, be construc ted of brick, thus giving the
and when the Spanish governor Don rebuilt city a definite Mediterranean look.
Antonio de Ulloa arrived in 1766 to take In the 1790s, under Baron Carondelet
control, they rebelled, driving him back (1792–7), New Orleans thrived. He granted
to Havana. Alexander O’Reilly, an Irish-born free trade to the Americans on the Mississippi
Spanish general, arrived with 24 warships, and made New Orleans the port of deposit
2,000 soldiers, and 50 artillery pieces. for three years. The city’s first theater and
He executed six ringleaders of first newspaper were soon
the rebellion at the site of the established, gas lamps lit the
Old US Mint, on October 25, streets, and a basic police force
1769, and firmly established was recruited. Drainage ditches
Spanish power. were dug too, to protect the
During the American city against flooding by
Revolution (1775–83), Governor the Mississippi. Prosperity
Bernardo de Galvez supported increased, and the sugar
the American colonists and industry was created in 1796,
skillfully defended Baton Rouge, when Jean Etienne de Boré
Natchez, Mobile, and Pensacola. Spanish Governor Bernardo de first granulated sugar on a
He also relaxed trade res trictions, Galvez (1776–85) commercial scale. The city was


1765 First 1769 Governor O’Reilly 1788 Fire on March 21
Acadians arrive suppresses the 1766 (Good Friday) destroys
from Nova Scotia rebellion 856 buildings

1760 1770 1780 1790
1791 Toussaint L’Ouverture
1763 Treaty of Paris 1775–83 leads slave revolt in Saint
signed; Louisiana Revolutionary War Domingue (Haiti)
and New Orleans Bernard de Marigny, an
ceded to Spain early plantation owner





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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  19


home to important plantations like
the one owned by Bernard de
Marigny in the Lower French Quarter.
New Orleans also received an infusion
of talented men from the French
colony of Saint Domingue (now
Haiti), who had fled the slave uprising
there in 1791. By 1804, refugee
planters and slaves were pouring into
New Orleans. They added a distinct Andrew Jackson leading the Battle of New Orleans
Caribbean cast to the colony, erecting
West Indian-style houses. The planters’ slaves James Wilkinson and William C. C. Claiborne
and free people of color expanded the officially ratified the transfer on December
practice of voodoo in the colony. 20, 1803, at the Cabildo. On April 30, 1812,
Louisiana was admitted to the Union, six
The Louisiana Purchase and weeks before the United States declared war
the Battle of New Orleans on Great Britain because of restraint of trade
Although Spain ceded Louisiana to France and the impressment of Americans into
in 1800, Napoleon, who was preoccupied in the British navy. In January 1815, despite the
Europe, soon sold it to the United States for Treaty of Ghent, which had theoretically
$15 million to help pay for his wars. General ended the war the month before, British
forces launched a fresh attack on New
Orleans. Under General Andrew Jackson,
a ragtag army of pirates, American
frontiersmen, French gentlemen, and free
men of color beat back the British, validating
the peace treaty and finally ending hostilities.
In 1812, the first steamboat had arrived
in New Orleans, and soon after the victory
at the Battle of New Orleans, waves of
newcomers, attracted by rapid commercial
growth, drove the population to more than
40,000. Nevertheless, friction between the
French Creoles and the Americans gave rise
to the creation of two separate districts; the
French Quarter and an uptown American
section. Canal Street separated the two,
and the space between was known as the
Representation of the Battle of New Orleans at Chalmette neutral ground.


Spanish treaty of 1795 1803 Louisiana 1812 The steamer New Orleans
Purchase ratified on arrives in the city in January
1796 Sugar December 20
industry 1815 Andrew Jackson triumphs at the
established
Battle of New Orleans on January 8
1800 1810 1820
1795 United States and
Spain sign a treaty 1800 Louisiana 1812 Louisiana 1814 Treaty of Ghent,
opening the Mississippi ceded from admitted to the signed on December 24,
to American trade Spain to France Union on April 30 ends the War of 1812





018-019_EW_New_Orl.indd 19 05/08/16 3:48 pm

20  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

Steamboats, Cotton,
and Sugar
The arrival of the first steamboat,
in 1812, opened the city’s trade
to the interior and the upcountry
plantations. Before the steamboat,
cargo was carried on flatboats,
which floated down the Ohio
and Mississippi from Louisville,
Kentucky, on a journey that
took several weeks. The new The Robert E. Lee steamboat on the Mississippi
steamboats cut the journey to a
fraction of that time. Between 1803 and courtly life, gambling, and easy living. The
1833, about 1,000 boats a year docked at the only blights were the frequent epidemics of
port of New Orleans. By the mid-1830s, cholera and yellow fever. Between 1817 and
the port was shipping half a million bales 1860, there were 23 yellow fever epidemics,
of cotton, becoming the cotton capital of killing more than 28,000 people. The worst,
the world. By 1840, it was the second most in 1853, killed 10,300 people.
important port in the nation, after New
York, and the population had passed 80,000. Civil War and Reconstruction
Other commodities that enriched the city The Civil War brought prosperity to an
were sugar, indigo, coffee, and bananas. As end. In 1861, Louisiana seceded from
many as 35,000 steamboats docked the Union. In 1862, Union Navy
at the wharves in 1860, clearing Captain Farragut captured New
$324 million worth of trade. Orleans, and General Benjamin
By this time, New Orleans was “Beast” Butler occupied the
the largest city in the South, and, city on May 1. Butler hanged
with a population of 168,000, it William Mumford for tearing
was the sixth largest city in the the United States flag down
nation. The immense wealth that from the Mint, confiscated the
was being generated led to the property of those who refused to
city’s further expansion and cultural 1845 portrait of sign an oath of allegiance, and
development. The city of Lafayette a family passed an ordinance declaring that
(now the Garden District) was annexed any woman who insulted a Union
in 1852; the French Opera House was built in soldier would be regarded as a prostitute
1858; the Mardi Gras festival became more and locked up. The citizens chafed under
widely celebrated when the first parading his rule and that of his successor, General
krewe, Comus, was founded in 1857 New Nathaniel Banks. After the war, the city
Orleans also developed a reputation for its struggled to recover, but the source of so


1831–5 New Orleans 1845 New Orleans is the 1853 Yellow fever 1866
becomes the world’s second biggest port in kills 10,300 between Mechanics
largest cotton market the country July and November Civil War gun Hall Riot

1830 1840 1850 1860
1820–30 The 1861 Louisiana secedes
development of the from the Union 1865 Civil
steamboats allows the 1862 Union General War ends
city to open trade to the 1852 The city of Lafayette is annexed, Benjamin Butler occupies
interior of the country becoming the Garden District the city on May 1





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(Source v1.2)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  21


much of the city’s wealth – the upriver
plantations – had been destroyed. The “Old
South” never recovered; the steamboat era
was over, and the economic shift toward
the northeast left New Orleans languishing.
Poor race relations troubled the city after
the Civil War. In 1865, at the end of the Civil
War, slaves were freed but lived in legal
limbo. In 1866, a race riot broke out near
Mechanics Hall in downtown New Orleans,
where a group of white and black men Slave cabin in a cotton plantation, circa 1860
were drafting a new state constitution to
extend full rights to black men (women began to erode as old Confederates
would not vote until the 20th century). resumed full political, civil, and economic
During the attack, 37 delegates were power. Segregation became entrenched
killed and 136 wounded; the violence of in 1896 when, in Plessy v. Ferguson, the US
the Mechanics Hall riot was a key element Supreme Court established the so-called
in Congress’s decision to organize “separate but equal” mandates. Segregation
Reconstruction (aligning the seceding was not successfully challenged again for
states to the Union) as a military occupation more than 50 years. Racial tensions only
of the old Confederacy by federal troops. worsened as waves of Italians and Irish
In 1877, federal troops withdrew, but immigrants arrived in the late 19th century.
the legal and social gains made by African Although the 1884 Cotton Centennial
Americans during Reconstruction soon Exposition boosted the city’s profile as a
major commercial center, crime,
prostitution, and corruption
remained rampant. In 1897, in an
attempt to control the lawlessness
that was troubling the city, Alderman
Sidney Story sponsored a bill that
legalized prostitution in a 38-block
area bounded by Iberville, Basin,
Robertson, and St. Louis streets.
This area, which became known as
“Storyville”, fostered the beginnings
of a new style of impro visational
music, called jazz (see pp22–3). It was
later demolished to make way for
Painting of a fleet of Civil War frigates low-income housing.


1866 1877 Reconstruction ends; 1890 Racial tensions 1897 Sidney Story
Mechanics federal troops leave reach their peak in proposes official red
Hall Riot New Orleans light district

1870 1880 1890 1900

1896 Supreme Court
General Robert E. Lee 1884 Cotton Centennial decision in Plessy v. Ferguson
Exposition permits racial segregation





020-021_EW_New_Orl.indd 21 05/08/16 3:48 pm

22  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

History of New Orleans Jazz

Jazz is America’s original contribution to world culture. It
evolved slowly and almost imperceptibly from a number
of sources – from the music played at balls, parades, dances,
and funerals, and New Orleans’ unique blend of cultures.
Its musical inspirations included classical music (the original
jazz musicians were classically trained), spirituals, marches,
and American folk influences – the entire mélange of music
that was played in 19th-century New Orleans. Trumpeter Oscar “Papa” Celestin
The founder of the Tuxedo Brass
Band in 1911 also composed
“Down by the Riverside.”
Congo Square
On Sundays, slaves
gathered here to
celebrate their
one day off, playing
music and dancing.



Papa Jack’s
Dixieland Jazz Band
This all-white band,
led by Nick LaRocca,
made the first jazz
recording in 1917.













Louis Armstrong
This world-famous jazz trumpeter Bordellos, or “sporting
began singing on the streets of houses,” were where jazz
New Orleans. He played with Kid gained its popularity.
Ory before leaving the city in 1922
to join King Oliver’s band in Chicago.


Buddy Bolden (1877–1931), a Joe “King” Oliver (1885–1938)
barber born in New Orleans, played started playing cornet in New “King” Oliver
cornet and formed one of the first Orleans in 1904, but moved to
jazz bands in the 1890s Chicago with his Creole Jazz Band
1880 1900 1920
Sidney Bechet (1897–
Jelly Roll Morton (1890–1941) 1959) played clarinet
began his piano career in the and soprano saxophone
brothels of Storyville. He was the with early leaders like
first great jazz composer and pianist Freddie Keppard





022-023_EW_New_Orl.indd 22 05/08/16 3:56 pm

THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  23


Kid Ory’s Trombone
Edward “Kid” Ory played with King
Oliver and Louis Armstrong’s
famous Hot Five band.






Riverboat Jazz Bands
After Storyville was closed down in 1917, New Orleans’
best musicians moved onto the boats or migrated to
northern cities. Pianist Fate Marable’s band included
Louis Armstrong, who played the cornet.






The Boswell Sisters
Connie, Martha, and Vet Boswell
sang and recorded in the early
1930s. This was the most popular
female jazz group of its time.



Musicians were screened
off so that they could not
see the patrons.










Storyville Jazz Salon
Many early jazz artists entertained in Storyville
at the bordellos, playing behind screens – Jelly Roll Morton
Buddy Bolden, King Oliver, Jelly Roll Morton, Ferdinand “Jelly Roll” Morton, who formed
Sidney Bechet, Kid Ory, Freddie Keppard, and the band The Red Hot Peppers, claimed
Manuel Perez among them. to have invented jazz in 1902.


Louis Armstrong (1901–1971) was Terence Blanchard (1962–), a trumpeter, played
the greatest of all jazz musicians. with Lionel Hampton and Art Blakey before forming
From 1940 to 1960, he played with Louis Armstrong his own quintet. He is famous for composing and
his All Star Band playing the music for Spike Lee’s films
1940 1960 1980 2000
Danny Barker (1909–1994) Harry Connick, Jr. (1967–) played in New
played guitar and banjo with the Pete Fountain (1930–) Orleans clubs as a teenager, later becoming
big bands in the 1930s and 1940s is considered one of the a major jazz-pop music star and arranging
before returning to New Orleans best clarinetists in the world the score for When Harry Met Sally





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24  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS


During World War II, business picked up
again in the shipyards, and New Orleans
produced thousands of the famous
Higgins boats that were used in Allied
amphibious landings on all war fronts.
In 1946, Mayor deLesseps Story “Chep”
Morrison was elected as a reformer and
served until 1961. During his administration,
the city began to take on its current appear­
ance. He constructed the Pontchartrain
A World War II Higgins boat Expressway, a new airport, and, in 1958,
the $65­million Mississippi River Bridge
20th-Century New Orleans – (later renamed the Crescent City
From Storyville to 2000 Connection), which opened the West Bank
Until it was abolished on October 2, 1917, area to suburban development. In 1954, the
Storyville was the most extraordinary Supreme Court ruling Brown v. the Board
spectacle of legalized vice in the United of Education ordered the desegregation of
States. Patrons could pick up a copy of public education. Schools were integrated
the “Blue Book” in a bar or hotel and by federal marshals in 1960.
find the names and addresses of 700 During the 1960s, there was some
prostitutes listed with their prices and economic regeneration when NASA took
their skin color. Storyville, however, also over an old aviation plant to build the
gave jazz a boost, because many early Saturn rocket booster, and a ship channel
jazz artists began their musical lives in was opened, enabling very large ships
the brothels. to enter the port. In 1969, the port was
The Department of the Navy closed still the second largest in the nation.
Storyville down in 1917, because it During the boom, new buildings like the
feared that it was too tempting to sailors
shipping out from New Orleans to fight
on the World War I battlefronts. Although
the war briefly boosted business in the
shipyards, the economy languished in
the early 1930s. The effects of the
Depression were evident by 1933, when
five New Orleans banks failed and 11 per
cent of the citizenry was on welfare.
Under the New Deal, Mayor Robert
Maestri used federal dollars to build
roads, bridges, parks, and public buildings. The Crescent City Connection Bridge, reconstructed in the 1990s


1933 Five New Orleans 1936–46 Mayor Robert 1961 NASA acquires the 1975 Super­
banks fail; 11 per cent of Maestri uses federal old Michoud aviation dome opens
the citizens are on relief funds to repair the city’s plant to assemble Saturn
infrastructure booster rockets
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1917 Storyville 1936 Vieux Carré 1954 Brown v. Board of 1960 N. O.
abolished on Commission Education orders schools are
October 2 established desegregation desegregated
1941–45 Higgins boats by federal
Storyville brothel sign produced at the shipyards marshals





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THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  25


World Trade Center, Rivergate, and One
Shell Square were erected, and several
grand hotels rose up along Canal Street.
In 1967, the city was granted an NFL
(National Football League) franchise.
The 1965 Voting Rights Act changed
the political picture in the city. In 1969,
Mayor Moon Landrieu was elected
primarily thanks to the support of black
voters, and he appointed the first black NASA Saturn rocket, built in the 1960s at the Michoud plant
person to a senior position in his
administration, paving the way for the comply, and canceled their parades. The
election of Ernest N. “Dutch” Morial, the first ordinance was later toned down, and
black mayor, in 1978. Proteus resumed its parade in 2000. In
The early years of the Morial administration 1994, Dutch’s son, Marc Morial, was
benefited greatly from the oil boom, but elected mayor. He served two terms,
by 1986, the bubble had burst, due to the building a powerful political machine for
drop in international oil prices; as a result, the governing of New Orleans. Some
the city’s economy was devastated. economic diversification and the boom in
Meanwhile, the white and the late 1990s helped
middle class flight to the restore prosperity, but the
suburbs, which began in city still suffers from an over-
the 1950s, continued, dependence on both the
leaving parts of tourism and oil industries,
the inner city to the poor. and from the persistent
Morial sought to salvage problems of corruption. In
the city’s fortunes by August 2005, a disastrous
advancing construction on flood caused by Hurricane
the Convention Center, Katrina (see pp26–9) swept
farther developing the into the city, killing more
waterfront, and than 1,400 people, but
encouraging tourism sparing most historic
investment, but racial Millennium celebrations on the neighborhoods. Several
tensions increased, finally Mississippi River years after Katrina, much
spilling over into Mardi remains to be done, but the
Gras. In 1991, the City Council passed a city is steadily recovering, doing what it
stringent anti-discrimination law, refusing has always done best; delivering the
to grant parade permits to all; the Comus, pleasures of food, drink, music, and art to
Proteus, and Momus krewes refused to the many visitors that flock here.


1975 Super- 1980s Oil 1987 Pope 1995 A flood in May 2010 Mitch Landrieu
dome opens boom and John Paul II causes $760 million elected mayor
bust visits the city worth of damage

1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1994 Marc
1960 N. O. 1984 Louisiana World Morial elected 2011 The Mississippi reaches
schools are Exposition helps riverfront mayor, age 34 historic flood stages, but the
desegregated development levees hold
by federal 2002 C. Ray Nagin 2005 Hurricane
marshals Pope John Paul II elected mayor Katrina hits the city




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26  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

Hurricane Katrina

Hurricane Katrina – and the subsequent levee failures –
which hit New Orleans in August 2005, has been called
the most expensive disaster in US history. More than
850,000 homes were damaged and entire communities
along the Gulf Coast of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama
were destroyed overnight. The official death toll in 17th Street Canal and
Louisiana alone exceeded 1,400 people, and many London Avenue Canal
more were forced to relocate across the country. Katrina’s storm surge over­
Much of the destruction in the city was caused whelmed these canals and
by floodwaters. The recovery effort has been a flooded much of the city.
monumental undertaking: billions of dollars
in insurance proceeds and government
funds have been committed so far.















Tulane and Loyola Universities
These institutions had to contend
with damage to the facilities
and the displacement of most
employees and students. They
managed to reopen in 2006.



The St. Charles Avenue
Streetcar was severely damaged
by the winds, which tore down
the overhead power lines. The
rolling stock, however, survived
the storm, and service was The massive Mississippi River levees that
resumed in 2007.
help contain the river weathered Katrina
without a problem, ensuring that the French
Quarter, Central Business District, Uptown,
and parts of the Garden District remained dry.
Aug 28 Mayor Ray Nagin orders Aug 31 Attempts to plug Sep 24 Hurricane Rita makes landfall;
the mandatory evacuation levee breaches fail; parts of New Orleans are flooded again
of New Orleans flooding continues until
waters reach the level of
Aug 26, 2005 State of emergency Lake Pontchartrain Mayor Nagin Feb 28, 2006 First post­
declared in Louisiana Katrina Mardi Gras
2005 2006
Aug 29 Katrina makes landfall; storm surge Sep 15 President Bush Nov 28 City’s first public
inundates some communities; levees fail around pledges to rebuild the city school reopens
New Orleans and massive flooding reported
Sep 12 Federal Emergency
Sep 6 Evacuation of Management Agency (FEMA) Oct 6 Drinking water declared
Superdome is completed director Michael Brown resigns safe in most of the city




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THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  27

The City Underwater
The historic neighborhoods built on higher ground Why the Levees Failed
did not flood, while the newer communities, built New Orleans relies on a network
on reclaimed swamp land, were devastated as lake of man-made canals supported by
water surged through the levee breaches. concrete walls and earthen levees to
drain water from the low-lying city
The New Orleans Fair Grounds St. Louis Cathedral and into Lake Pontchartrain. The storm
race track flooded, but the venue other landmarks in the surge from Hurricane Katrina forced
was still able to host the New Orleans historic French Quarter a massive amount of water from
Jazz & Heritage Festival in 2006. Horse were built on high the lake back into the canals, and
racing resumed in November 2007. ground and therefore eventually this water overflowed the
avoided flooding. walls meant to contain it.






Water cascaded over the canal
walls with such force that it eroded
the supporting earthen banks. This
even tually weakened the levees so
much that the walls collapsed and
flood water poured into the city.









The Mississippi River-
Gulf Outlet, a man-made
ship ping channel outside of
New Orleans, helped funnel
the storm surge into the city
via the Industrial Canal.



Roof Damage at Lower Ninth Ward
the Superdome In this area, water blasted
Storm winds tore off the through the failed levees with
roof of the city’s largest such force that homes were
sports arena, a refuge ripped from the ground,
for several thousand leaving little to salvage
residents. It took days in the flood’s wake.
for the people trapped
there to be evacuated.
May 6 All New Orleans Sep 25 Mercedes-Benz Superdome Dec 23 St. Charles Avenue Streetcar
neighborhoods declared reopens for first football game service fully restored
officially open for return
Feb 28, 2006 First post- Jun 29 Convention Nov 23 New Orleans Fair Grounds
Katrina Mardi Gras Center reopens racecourse reopens
2007
Aug 24 Port of New Orleans operates at Dec 24 City population officially
100 per cent of pre-Katrina cargo levels estimated at 300,000
May 27 Audubon Jun 12, 2007 New Orleans New Orleans
Aquarium of the appoints its first inspector general streetcar
Americas reopens to root out city corruption




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28  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS


The Impact of Hurricane Katrina the Gulf Coast. This storm surge
inundated entire commu nities
Hurricane Katrina was a disaster of unprecedented outside of the region’s protection
magnitude for New Orleans, combining the destructive levees. In New Orleans itself, the
force of a powerful hurricane with levee failures that left levee walls collapsed, allowing
much of the city inundated by floodwaters for weeks. It was water from Lake Pontchartrain
to pour into the city.
clear from the start that the city’s recovery would take years, The paralyzed city descended
and early results materialized very slowly as bureaucratic into chaos, with thousands of
issues mounted. However, the spirit and improvisation that desperate citizens pleading for
have long made New Orleans such a captivating place for help from their rooftops. The
visitors have also fueled the city’s recovery. As the rebuilding Federal Emergency Management
Agency (FEMA) was criticized
work continues, New Orleans has emerged as a showcase for its disorganized, slow
and proving ground for new ideas, while the warm response, but eventually the
atmosphere and unique charms of the historic city have military arrived in force to
survived to greet visitors once again. oversee a massive evacuation.

A Modern Diaspora
Amid the turmoil were
moments of great courage and
generosity. The US Coast Guard
rescued an estimated 33,500
people from the area, and
countless individuals stepped
up to help those displaced
and in dire need. When the
evacuation was complete,
the flooded city and its suburbs
sat virtually empty as residents
spread out across the US in
search of temporary shelter.
On September 15, President
George W. Bush delivered a
Destruction in the wake of Hurricane Camille (1969) televised speech from Jackson
Square to pledge that the nation
would do “whatever it takes” to
A History of Hurricanes Levee Failures and a rebuild New Orleans. Recovery
Fitful Response
Like many other communities efforts began by plugging levee
on the Gulf of Mexico, New Hurricane Katrina formed over breaks and draining the flooded
Orleans has had to contend the Atlantic in late August 2005. neighborhoods, leaving behind
with powerful, devastating As storm-track forecasts zeroed endless vistas of washed-out
hurricanes throughout its in on the New Orleans area, destruction. The body count
history. In particular, Hurricane government officials and after the disaster exceeded
Betsy in September 1965, and residents began making 1,400 in Louisiana alone.
Hurricane Camille in August pre parations. On August 26,
1969, caused much destruction the Louisiana governor
in the metro area. declared a state of emergency,
Each hurricane season, local and on August 28, Mayor Ray
residents would follow the Nagin ordered a mandatory
storm forecasts, but while evacu ation of New Orleans.
there had been several close Several thousand residents
calls, the city had managed took to the highways, but many
to escape major damage for others stayed put; the Mercedes-
many years. However, rapidly Benz Superdome was opened
accelerating coastal erosion as a refuge to shelter them.
was stripping away the massive Katrina made landfall on
wetlands that stand between August 29: winds knocked
New Orleans and the open down trees, shattered windows,
waters of the Gulf. These and tore roofs across the area.
wetlands would prove crucial as But much worse damage came
they provide a natural buffer from the wall of seawater the Aerial image of the city revealing the
against tropical storms. hurricane had driven towards extent of the devastation




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THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  29


The New Orleans Saints
With their hometown devastated and
their stadium, the Superdome, in ruins, the
New Orleans Saints football team ended
the 2005 season with one of the National
Football League’s worst records. However,
the team came roaring back the following
year. The restored Superdome reopened in
September 2006, just in time for the Saints’
first home game since Katrina. The team
won that game and went on to end the
season with a trip to the conference
championship. Along the way, the Saints’
success provided an uplifting cause for
New Orleanians, who embraced the team
The grand reopening of the Mercedes-Benz Superdome as a symbol of their city’s recovery.

business, and volunteers from programs have also grown to
Picking Up the Pieces around the world flocked to the encourage environmentally
Neighborhoods built on high area to help with the recovery sensitive designs in rebuilding
ground, such as the French effort. Though the tourism and the city.
Quarter and the Garden District, convention industries were
did not flood and were open for severely reduced, and staffing
re-entry just weeks after Katrina. shortages were rampant, A New New Orleans
For other areas, a slow planning New Orleans managed to Today, it is possible to visit New
process for rebuilding began as host its traditional Mardi Gras Orleans without seeing a trace
the government debated how celebration in February 2006. of the disaster, though outside
to fund the immense recovery the historic areas, signs of the
effort. Residents slowly trickled devastation still linger. Recovery
back and were provided with Rebuilding Better continues on a block-by-block
thousands of trailers for As residents continued to return basis, even as large-scale
temporary lodging. to the city, the Army Corps of reconstruction projects begin
Engineers began building a to take shape.
stronger, more advanced flood- The city’s population is still
control system. This project will significantly smaller than before
take years to complete, but it has Katrina. However, many of the
already increased the city’s level residents who have returned,
of protection, as the river’s levees and newcomers drawn to New
held in 2011. The federal govern- Orleans since the disaster, have
ment eventually approved embraced the city’s cultural
billions of dollars in aid to repair heritage and are reinvigorating
local infra structure and help its many unique traditions.
resi dents rebuild their homes The population has also taken
Debris amassed in front of a house in the and businesses. After several a renewed interest in politics
aftermath of Katrina central planning processes fell and wide-ranging political
apart, frustrated neighborhood reforms have been created to
groups began crafting their own hold officials more accountable,
Open for Business
redevelop ment plans. Private and improve civic institutions.
Despite the devastation and
lack of urban infrastructure, the
recovery of New Orleans began
to spread from the rela tively
intact historic core to the
surrounding neighborhoods.
Restaurants and businesses
slowly reopened, sometimes in
makeshift conditions, and the
first schools resumed lessons
before the end of 2005. The
New Orleans port, the city’s
long-standing economic
powerhouse, also got back to Homes being built in the New Orleans Musicians’ Village




028-029_EW_New_Orl.indd 29 05/08/16 3:48 pm

30  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

History of Mardi Gras

Culminating on Mardi Gras – the day before Ash Wednesday –
the Carnival celebrations in New Orleans attract visitors from
across the United States and around the world. Since the
1700s, the period between Twelfth Night (January 6) and
Ash Wednesday, the start of Lent, has been celebrated with
lavish balls, presented by private citizen groups known as
“krewes.” Although most balls are private, many krewes also
put on parades, with ornate costumes and floats. These take
place for 10 days before Mardi Gras, with the oldest and
most famous parades on Tuesday itself. Bacchus Kings
The Krewe of Bacchus
has invited Bob Hope, Kirk
Douglas, and Charlton
Heston to be their king.
Rex
This krewe was
founded in 1872 to
organize a spectacle
for Grand Duke Alexis,
a younger son of
Czar Alexander II.





King Cake
The traditional
food of Carnival,
each king cake
contains a small
plastic figure of a
baby, representing
the baby Jesus.





Parade Floats
Each krewe has 14
or more colorful
floats, some still
made of traditional
papier-mâché, that
are pulled through
the city in the parades.

1762 The Spanish 1827 Masquerade 1857 Krewe of 1882 Krewe of
pass a law forbidding balls re-authorized Comus founded at Proteus formed by
slaves to wear masks the Gem Saloon in men from the
the 100-block of Cotton Exchange
Royal Street
1750 1775 1800 1825 1850 1875
1870 The Twelfth Night Revelers
1805 Balls and Krewe formed; the first to
masking banned choose and crown a queen
Old Mardi Gras costume 1872 Krewe of Rex formed





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THE HIST OR Y OF NE W ORLEANS  31


Where to See Mardi Gras
The history of Mardi Gras is
displayed at a permanent
exhibition in the Presbytère
(see pp58–9). Many floats are
constructed at Blaine Kern’s
Mardi Gras World (see p108) and
can be seen there all year long.




French Quarter Celebrations
Crowds jam the French Quarter to watch the
costumed crowds and impromptu parades.






The Presbytère presents a
colorful display of Mardi
Throws Gras history.
Souvenir doubloons
(coins), beads, and dolls
are thrown from the
floats to the crowds.
This tradition began
with Rex in 1881.






Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World
is the place where many of the
Mardi Gras Colors floats are made.
The purple, green, and gold masks, banners, and
other decorations that adorn buildings everywhere
during the Carnival season are derived from the original
costume worn by Rex in the 1872 parade. He used a
theatrical costume made for Richard III, consisting of a
purple velvet cloak with green rhinestones and a golden
scepter and crown. Today, these colors are still used: purple Rex’s Scepter
The King of Mardi Gras, a
symbolizing justice, green for faith, and gold for power.
prominent New Orleans
citizen, is chosen by the Rex
organization every year.
1909 Zulu, the first 1968 Krewe of Bacchus 1991 A city ordinance requires
black krewe, organized breaks traditions. It parading krewes to open their
as a parody opens its ranks to all membership to all. Comus, Momus,
and invites celebrities and Proteus cancel their parades
to become its king Rex knight
1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 2025
1889 The first marching 1935 The Elks 2000 Proteus resumes
krewe, Jefferson City organize the first parading after a nine- 2008 The city returns to
Buzzards, founded truck krewe year absence its pre-Katrina Mardi Gras
parade schedule, with
11 days of festivities





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INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS  33

NEW ORLEANS AT A GLANCE

There are more than 100 places of interest following eight pages are a time-saving
described in this book. They range from the guide to the best New Orleans has to offer.
legendary Bourbon Street to the quiet and Architecture, wrought and cast iron, and culture
beautiful live oaks in City Park, and from have their own sections. There is also a guide
Jackson Square, with its spontaneous jazz to the diverse cultures that have given this city
street-musicians, to the scientific exhibits in its unique character and feeling. Below is a
the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas. The selection of sights that no visitor should miss.

New Orleans Top Ten Sights













Garden District and Uptown
See pp100–115 Royal Street
New Orleans Museum of Art See pp50–51
See pp122–5










St. Charles Avenue
Streetcar See pp106–7


Audubon Aquarium of the
Bourbon Street Americas See pp92–3
See pp48–9



Audubon Zoo
See pp114–15









Jackson Square City Park Steamboat Natchez
See p56 See pp118–19 See pp66–7
Elaborate costume and headdress featured in the Mardi Gras parade



032-033_EW_New_Orl.indd 33 05/08/16 3:56 pm

34  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS


Exploring New Orleans’ The Spanish
Many Cultures The Spanish took over from the
French as administrators of
New Orleans’ unique flavor derives from the incredible mix Louisiana from 1763 to 1800
of peoples and cultures assembled on the banks of the (see pp18–19), but few immigrants
Mississippi River; Native American, French, Spanish, African, from Spain actually settled in
New Orleans. Spanish is still
Anglo-American, Jewish, Italian, German, and Irish. They spoken by descendants of the
have all contributed to the “gumbo” that is New Orleans. “Isleños” – those who came at the
request of the Spanish from the
Canary Islands in the 1770s. In
the 1950s, Latin American
refugees from Cuba, Nicaragua,
and Honduras flooded into the
city. The most obvious Hispanic
influence can be seen
throughout the French Quarter
in the design of the buildings.

The Germans
The first Germans arrived in
1722, lured by John Law’s
promotion of the colony as
an earthly paradise (see p17).
French colonists signing a treaty with Native Americans About 10,000 had left their
homes in the Rhineland
Domingue added a distinct West between 1719 and 1720 after
The Native Americans Indian flavor to the culture at the the Thirty Years’ War. Nearly
Numerous Native American beginning of the 19th century. 2,000 arrived in the region,
tribes lived in the Delta: There was a continuous flow of settling as small farmers about
Attakpas, Bayougoula, Okelousa, immigration from France 25 miles (40 km) upstream
Choctaw, Houma, Tunica, and throughout the rest of the from New Orleans, in an area
Chitimacha. They were either century. Their influence is most known as the “German Coast.”
wiped out like the Natchez, clearly seen in the cuisine as well A second wave followed
who were destroyed in the war as in architecture and decorative between 1820 and 1850,
of 1730, or removed, like the arts, such as the furniture bringing thousands more, who
Choctaw, to Oklahoma. Only created by Prudent Mallard. were fleeing political turmoil in
scattered traces of these tribes Europe. Another wave followed
remain, mostly outside the city. just before the Civil War, and
The African Cultures
The first slaves arrived in
The French 1720, and by 1724, there were
The French came down the enough to justify the Code Noir
Mississippi from Canada and for their control. New Orleans
explored and settled the region became known for its large
in the late 17th and early 18th number of free people of color,
centuries. Refugees from the many of whom came from
French colony of Saint Haiti during the 1791–1808
Haitian Revolution. On the eve
of the Civil War, the city of
168,000 people had 13,000
slaves and free people of
color. From Africa and the
West Indies came music that
influenced the birth of jazz
(see pp22–3). During Mardi Gras
and on St. Joseph’s Day (March
19), the Mardi Gras Indians pay
The French Market, where the city’s homage to Native Americans Mardi Gras Indian, unique to
diverse cultures mix who hid runaway slaves. New Orleans





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NE W ORLEANS A T A GLANCE  35



then another from 1865 to
the 1890s. By 1870, there were
more than 15,000 living in New
Orleans itself. For a time, they
were the largest immigrant
group in Louisiana.

The Cajuns
When the British gained
control of French Canada,
they insisted that the Acadians
swear an oath to the British
crown. When they refused,
they were exiled. Many A jazz band marching in the French Quarter
returned to France, but others
traveled south to Catholic east coast, all seeking fortunes in By 1860, there were 24,000
Spanish Louisiana. The first the new territory. Many of them Irish in New Orleans, crowded
650 people arrived in the were of Scots-Irish or English into a narrow area dubbed
region in 1765 and settled as descent. They settled in what the “Irish Channel” between
farmers along the bayous west became the American Sector on the river and Magazine Street,
of New Orleans. Today, Cajun the upriver side of Canal Street, east of Louisiana Avenue.
culture is undergoing a and brought another new The majority of them worked
renaissance, assisted by Cajun architectural style to the city. as laborers (building the
and zydeco artists and chefs New Basin Canal), and as
such as Paul Prudhomme, of stevedores. The later
K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen (see The Jews generations became very
p174). While Cajun culture is The Jewish community made a successful in politics.
separate from New Orleans’ big impact on New Orleans
Creole-influenced culture, from the 19th century, when
Cajun food, and music can many Jews emigrated from The Italians
be sampled here. Germany and Eastern Europe, Although some Italians arrived
and in 1828, the first synagogue before the Civil War, many more
was organized. In the 19th arrived later and replaced slaves
century, Samuel Zemurray, for as agricultural laborers. By 1890,
one, started a fruit-importing there were more than 25,000
company, which eventually living in New Orleans, and
became the United Fruit more arrived at the turn of the
Company. He was a great century. Most came from Sicily
philanthropist, and donated and settled in the poor French
enormous sums of money to Quarter, where they started
Tulane University (see p112). out as laborers, peddlers,
and market vendors, bringing
interesting new flavors to the
The Irish
French Market. Their influence
Cajun craftsman sitting at a traditional The Irish arrived in the mid- can be seen mainly in the
workbench 19th century, fleeing the 1840 cuisine, including the popular
potato famine in Ireland. muffuletta sandwich (see p170).
The Anglo-Americans
The rough-and-ready men
who piloted the riverboats down
the Mississippi were the first
Americans to arrive in New
Orleans and give it its reputation
as a City of Sin. They came in
search of “dixies,” or 10-dollar
bills, and their carousing became
notorious. After the Louisiana
Purchase in 1803 (see p19),
government workers and land
speculators migrated from the A New Orleans canal, built by Irish laborers





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36  INTRODUCING N e w ORlea N s


The Architecture of New Orleans

New Orleans is one of the few american cities that has managed
to retain much of its historic architecture. The French quarter
has many buildings dating back 150 years or more, while the
Garden District has splendid mansions designed in a variety
of styles. Beautiful houses line esplanade avenue, historically
the residential nucleus of the Creole elite, and the city also
possesses a good stock of 19th-century public buildings built in
Greek Revival style. It is not always easy to categorize buildings
by style, for many of them are hybrids, like the Gallier House,
which incorporated both Creole and american features. Eastlake-style townhouse on
Esplanade Avenue

French Colonial
Only a few buildings, such as the Old Ursuline Convent (see p72) and Lafitte’s
Blacksmith Shop (see p80), remain from this period, which combines various
French styles of the 18th century. Most were destroyed by a series of fires: in
1788, 856 wooden buildings were destroyed; in 1794, 212 buildings. However,
the city’s many Creole cottages are reflective of this era.
The roof was made The brick chimney rose through
of wood tiles. the center of the house.
Brick, stucco, and
timber walls
Lafitte’s Blacksmith
Shop is a fine example Water channels
of brick between protected the
posts, in which wood from
soft local bricks water damage.
are supported by
cypress timbers
and protected
by plaster. Gas lamps were
added in the
19th century.


Spanish Colonial
After the 1788 and 1794 fires, the Spanish decreed that any building
of more than one story must be constructed of brick. The houses that
were subsequently built can still be seen in the French Quarter. They
often combine residence and store, and feature arcaded walls, heavy The second floor
doors and windows, and a flagstone alleyway leading to a loggia and was the family
home.
fountain-graced courtyard.

The attic was used
as a warehouse.
Walls were built
of brick instead
of wood.

Napoleon House, in
the French Quarter,
19th-century cast-iron is a typical three-
balconies storied Spanish house.
Only the crowning
tower is unique.





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Ne w orlea N s a t a g l a N ce  37




Federal Townhouse
Greek Revival
Americans from the Atlantic states brought their own elements, like the
architectural preferences with them, and the successful columns, were used
among them erected Federal-style homes in these houses.
that stand out from the French or
Spanish cottages surrounding
them in the Quarter.
Doorway with
fanlight transoms
Galleries were
supported by
columns and The Beauregard-
window architraves. Keyes House was
built in 1826 and
Cast-iron details restored in the 1940s
were used as by novelist Frances
decoration. Parkinson Keyes.
Raised American Cottage Shotgun House
Most of these raised cottages feature extensive These cottages were so called because a
eaves and an alleyway leading to a rear garden bullet fired from a shotgun through the front
or courtyard. The interior usually contains four door would go straight through the house
rooms arranged symmetrically and separated and out the back as all the doors were aligned.
by a center hall. The kitchen and servants’ They come in single and double versions, and
quarters are away from the house at the rear. usually have a set of box steps in front.
Gabled roofs were Main bedrooms
popular and were often were usually at the The main doorway Simple balconies
high enough for an attic. front of the house. leads directly into overlook the porch.
the first room.
A wide balcony
faced the street.









Esplanade Avenue is The ground floor The Marigny has several Box steps
lined with several kinds was used as a examples of traditional
of these raised cottages. storage area. shotgun houses.

The Creole Plantation House
The refugees from Saint Domingue (Haiti) brought this Caribbean-style French doors
dwelling to New Orleans. This one-story residence is usually raised on brick gave access to
pillars (to catch the breezes and to cope with flooding) and incorporates the veranda.
a wraparound veranda. The space below the house and the flagstone
piazza below the veranda are used as service or storage areas. Wide verandas
were built at the
front entrance.


Brick pillars Plantation
raised the house. houses were
the most popular
style of residences
built along the
Bayou St. John.





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38  INTRODUCING NE W ORLEANS

Famous New Orleanians

Because of its cultural roots, geographic importance, and easy-going
ways, New Orleans has been a magnet for creative people since the 18th
century. A great many writers and artists came here to live, and, like
Tennessee Williams, called New Orleans their spiritual home. Others, like
Louis Armstrong, were born here. Nurtured by its culture, they carried
their musical, literary, and artistic creations to the rest of the world.










ESPLANADE AVENUE

MID-CITY



TREME MARIGNY
Edgar Degas LOWER
CANAL STREET
The French painter visited the city FRENCH QUARTER
in 1872–3 (see p128). During this
PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRESSWAY
period, he painted many well-known
UPPER
pictures and portraits. FRENCH
QUARTER
WAREHOUSE AND
CENTRAL BUSINESS
CARROLLTON AVENUE
DISTRICTS



GARDEN DISTRICT JACKSON AVENUE
AND UPTOWN


M ississippi

Truman Capote
Born in Touro Infirmary in
the Garden District, this
famous author wrote his first
work, Other Voices, Other
Rooms, in a rented room
at 711 Royal Street.
Anne Rice
Born in New Orleans, author Anne Rice attended
Redemptorist School and once lived at 1239
First Street in the Garden District. The city stars in
her Vampire Chronicles (see p109).




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NE W ORLEANS A T A GLANCE  39

Mahalia Jackson
This gospel singer (see p82)
was born on Water Street and
grew up at an aunt’s house at
7467 Esther (now Pitt) Street.



John James Audubon
Throughout his career, the noted
naturalist and painter lived on
the edge of poverty, first at 706
Barracks Street, then at Oakley
House plantation, where he
stayed in 1821 (see p153).




ESPLANADE AVENUE

MID-CITY Louis Armstrong
Born in a shack at 723
Jane Alley, Louis Armstrong
strongly influenced the
development of solo jazz
performances (see pp22–3).
TREME MARIGNY Armstrong Park (see p81),
LOWER near the French Quarter,
CANAL STREET
FRENCH QUARTER and the city’s airport are
named after him.
PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRESSWAY
UPPER
FRENCH
QUARTER William Faulkner
WAREHOUSE AND His first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
CENTRAL BUSINESS was written at 624 Pirate’s Alley
CARROLLTON AVENUE (see p57), when he was living
DISTRICTS
in the city in 1925.



GARDEN DISTRICT JACKSON AVENUE
AND UPTOWN
0 kilometer 1
0 mile 1
M ississippi








Marie Laveau
The most famous voodoo Andrew Jackson
queen in New Orleans (see This general won the Battle
pp84–5), Laveau celebrated of New Orleans in 1815
her rituals on the banks of (see p19) at Chalmette
Bayou St. John. Battlefield downriver.




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40  INTRODUCING N e w ORlea N s


New Orleans Ironwork

The shadows cast by New Orleans ironwork add a romantic
touch to the city. wrought iron, which came first, was
fashioned by hand into beautiful shapes by German, Irish,
and black artisans. Cast iron, on the other hand, was poured
into wooden molds and allowed to set. as a result, the latter
has a somewhat solid, fixed appearance, unlike wrought iron,
which is handmade and has a more fluid aspect. examples
of both kinds of work can be seen throughout the city,
particularly in the French Quarter and the Garden District.


Colonial-style house, Royal Street











Decorative iron balconies with unique designs and
patterns are seen on many galleries. They are admired
as much today as they were in antebellum times.






Royal Street’s famous
corn stalk fence













The Pontalba Buildings,
commissioned by Baroness Pontalba
(see p57), spurred on the craze for
ironwork. Completed in 1850, they
transformed the profile of Jackson
Square (see p56). Some of the patterns
were designed by the Baroness’s son.
The signature of New Orleans is Creole ironwork, which
appears in many forms, including fences, gates, window
grilles, balconies, hinges, doorknobs, and lanterns.





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ne w orleans a t a glance  41


Wrought ironing contains
a purer iron. Handmade
and stronger than cast iron,
it is very common in the
French Quarter.




Ironwork details were
added to many buildings in
the 1850s. Lacy balconies
depicting oak leaf and acorn
can be seen on the LaBranche
House at 700 Royal Street.













Cast iron shaped in elaborate designs
was often used in homes in the Garden
District. It was superior to wood because
it withstood humidity.



Cornstalk Fences
There are three “cornstalk” fences in
New Orleans, so-called because of their
decorative motifs. One is at 915 Royal
Street (see p79), another at Colonel
Short’s Villa in the Garden District
(see p109), and a third is at the Dufour-
Plassan house on the corner of White
and Bell streets in Faubourg St. John.
Ironwork Motifs
In the 1850s, Philadelphia iron-mongers Wood &
Perot opened a branch office in New Orleans. Offering
hundreds of patterns specially designed
for the city, the company quickly
grew, its motifs including abstracts,
acorns, fruits, cherubs,
bacchants, vines,
and animals. These
were soon seen in
Cast-iron railings throughout
railing detail the city.

Popular balcony motifs






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42  INTRODUCING Ne w O R lea N s

NEW ORLEANS THROUGH
THE YEAR

The spring and fall, enjoying the most Bastille Day, and New Year’s eve. at
temperate weather, are the best times to Christmas time, local restaurants celebrate
visit. although the pace slows with the with traditional French “Reveillon” dinners.
heat of the summer, the city is still alive The high points of the year, however, are
with indoor and outdoor events. some Mardi Gras, with all the Carnival festivities
festivities celebrate themes specific to New stretching from January to as late as early
Orleans, such as the French Quarter Festival March, and the New Orleans Jazz and
in april. The city also throws parties for Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest) in late april
the major holidays, especially 4th of July, and early May.


and end with the last parade on discussions on New Orleans
Spring Mardi Gras (“Fat Tuesday,” or based authors and books.
During the spring, the weather the Tuesday before Lent). There Don’t miss the “Stella and
is at its best in New Orleans, are day and night parades, and Stanley” screamfest held
neither too hot nor too humid. masked balls (few of which are in Jackson Square (www.
There are two main events in open to the public). The whole tennesseewilliams.net).
the city, both of which are city is in party mode, so it’s
internationally renowned: advisable to book hotels well in
Mardi Gras, with its parades, advance (for parade dates and
street celebrations, and times see www.mardigras.com).
masked balls all over the city, St. Patrick’s Day Parade
and the Jazz Fest, which is held (weekend before and on Mar 17).
over two long weekends. It The city commemorates
is very important to have Ireland’s famous patron saint
confirmed reservations for with parades through the
transportation and lodging French Quarter, Irish Channel,
during this peak season. and Old Metairie Road, where
cabbages are thrown to the
March public. An all-day street party
Mardi Gras (Feb, dates vary). around Parasol’s Bar in the
The lively Carnival festivities Irish Channel takes place on
(see pp30–31) begin two or St. Patrick’s Day itself. A huge jazz brunch at the French
three weeks before Mardi Gras St. Joseph’s Day (on and Quarter Festival
around Mar 19). The city’s
Italian population honors April
the patron saint of Sicily with French Quarter Festival (second
elaborate altars of food. Angelo weekend). To celebrate the food
Brocato’s ice-cream parlor and music of New Orleans, this
(see p179) is one of the best festival is held in the French
places to see an altar. Quarter, with free musical
Crescent City Classic (Sat entertainment, “the world’s
before Easter). Since 1979, largest jazz brunch,” fireworks
world-class runners have over the Mississippi River, and
gathered in New Orleans for children’s activities (www.
this 10,000-meter race from frenchquarterfestivals.org).
the French Quarter to City Park. Spring Fiesta (begins Fri night
Thousands of amateur runners after Easter, lasting five days).
join in (www.ccc10k.com). With the French Quarter’s
Tennessee Williams New historic homes as the main
Orleans Literary Festival and attraction, this celebration
Writers’ Conference (late Mar). also has a parade that ends with
This five-day cultural festival the coro nation of a local queen.
takes place in various locations New Orleans Jazz and Heritage
to honor the celebrated writer, Festival (Jazz Fest) (last
with theatrical productions, weekend in Apr and first weekend
A family dressed in colorful Mardi lectures, readings, literary in May). In this seven-day
Gras costumes walking tours, and panel festival, held at the Fair Grounds,




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Average daily hours of sunshine
Hours Sunshine Chart
10 From May through
September, the
8
weather is hot and
6 humid, and the sun
shines for 6 to 8 hours
4 a day. From October
through March, the
2 temperature is colder,
and there are often
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec heavy fogs.
(www.go4thontheriver.com).
Summer This coincides with Essence,
Hot and extremely humid which draws top acts in
weather along with daily black entertainment (www.
thunderstorms make essencemusicfestival.com).
summertime in New Orleans
the off-season period. Since August
the late summer is also the White Linen Night (first Sat).
time when hurricanes and An open-air event in which a
tropical storms are frequent, number of art galleries take
it is wise to be prepared for their exhibits outdoors to
weather alerts. The biggest the Warehouse Art District.
celebration in the city is 4th Satchmo SummerFest (first
of July (Independence Day). weekend). This annual festival
is usually scheduled to coincide
June with the great jazz icon’s
French Market Creole Tomato birthday. Held in the French
Festival (first weekend). Held Quarter, with jazz, food,
in and around the French kids’ events, and special
Market, this unique festival programs (www.satchmo
Crowds enjoying the music at the offers cooking demonstrations summerfest.com).
Jazz Fest and local cuisine (www. Southern Decadence (last
frenchmarket.org). week of Aug to Labor Day).
more than 4,000 jazz musicians Southern Deca dence is a gay
entertain, with a large selection July street party that has over-the-
of traditional food, crafts, and Go 4th on the River (Jul 4). top costumes, parades, and
evening concerts (www. The riverfront hosts the rowdy behavior, and is a great
nojazzfest.com). Independence Day time for adults. Centered in the
cele brations. There is music, French Quarter, it culminates
May food, and entertainment on Labor Day, the first Monday
Whitney Zoo-to-Do (first for the whole family, plus a of September (www.southern
Fri in May). The largest one- spectacular fireworks display decadence.com).
night fundraising event in
the country takes place at
Audubon Zoo (see pp114–15),
with unforgettable dances
among the animals, under
the stars.
Greek Festival (Memorial Day
weekend). The Hellenic Cultural
Center, near Lake Pontchartrain,
hosts two days of cuisine, music,
and arts and crafts.
New Orleans Wine & Food
Experience (Memorial Day
week end). US and European
wineries come to town for
parties, talks, and tastings
(www.nowfe.com). Go 4th on the River celebration at Woldenberg Park




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44  INTRODUCING N e w ORlea N s


Average monthly rainfall Rainfall Chart
New Orleans is one
MM Inches
300 12 of the rainiest cities in
the United States, and
240 July and August are its
9 rainiest months, with
180 daily showers. Tropical
6 storms can cause
120 widespread power
3 failures. The hurricane
60
season lasts from June
to Novem ber, peaking in
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec August and September.
around Oct 31). A mini-Mardi
Gras with masking, costumes,
and impromptu street parties
on Decatur Street. Kids get a
big party at Audubon Zoo –
the Boo-at-the-Zoo.
November
Turkey Day Race (fourth Thu
in Nov). This 5-mile (8-km) run
has celebrated Thanksgiving
Alligator close-up at the Louisiana Swamp Festival for a century.
New Orleans Fair Grounds
at the Audubon Zoo (see pp114– Horse Racing Season
Fall
15), live Louisiana swamp animals (opens Thanksgiving Day).
Although there may still be are the center of attention. Those The thoroughbred racing
rainy days in September, the brave enough to touch them season lasts from late
driest months of the year are allowed to do so, under November through March,
are October and November, close supervision. There is also at the country’s third-oldest
when both humidity and heat Cajun food, music, and crafts. racetrack (see p128).
decrease. Halloween is the most Celebration in the Oaks
important celebration of this October (late Nov through early Jan).
season, and it launches the Oktoberfest (every week end). City Park (see pp118–19) is
biggest selling period of the year. The German community transformed by countless
The New Orleans’ Saints football celebrates its cultural roots sparkling Christmas lights.
team starts the NFL season at the Deutsches Haus (1023 Bayou Classic (late Nov).
which lasts through December. Ridgewood St, Metairie, (504) Football fans swarm
522-8014) with music, food, downtown for the annual
September and beer. showdown between
Madisonville Wooden Boat New Orleans Film Festival Louisiana’s historically
Festival (last weekend of Sep). (early to mid-Oct). This week- black colleges.
The largest gathering of long event takes
wooden water craft in the place at various
the New Orleans area, at venues around the
picturesque Madisonville on city and pre sents the
the Tchefuncte River. A Kids works of filmmakers
Dingy Workshop, Quick and from all over the
Dirty Boat Building Contest, world. Visiting cele-
and live entertainment brities, authors, and
(www.woodenboatfest.org). film stars always
Saints Football (Sep–Dec, attend the event.
Mercedes-Benz Superdome). The Jazz Awareness
NFL football season starts in Month (all month).
September with games at the Celebrating jazz at
Mercedes-Benz Superdome its birthplace, daily
(see p97) through December concerts are held
or January (see pp193–4). throughout the city.
Louisiana Swamp Festival (late Halloween in New The Fair Grounds, home to thoroughbred racing in
Sep, early Oct). For two weekends, Orleans (on and the Deep South




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ne w orleans through the y ear  45


Average monthly temperature
°C °F Temperature Chart
30 90 New Orleans is a
semi-tropical city, and
25 80
during the summer,
20 70 the temperature may
15 60 rise above 90°F (33°C).
Winters are relatively
10 50 mild, as are spring and
5 40 fall, which are the most
comfortable times of
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec year to visit.
Mardi Gras (early Feb to early
Winter Mar). Carnival begins on
The winter months are Jan 6 with masked balls and
enlivened by the holiday spirit other celebrations. However,
of Christmas and New Year. the majority of the parades
As soon as Christmas festivities do not begin until the
end on Twelfth Night (Jan 6), second weekend before
the excitement of Mardi Gras Mardi Gras itself (the Tuesday
begins to build with events before Lent).
and preparations for the main
celebrations before Lent.
Public Holidays
December New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Christmas (all month). Martin Luther King Day
Candlelight caroling in Jackson (3rd Mon, Jan)
Square (see p56), Reveillon
dinners, and his toric homes Mardi Gras Parade making its way Mardi Gras Day (varies,
Feb 3–Mar 9)
decorated for Christmas in through Lafayette Square
the French Quarter and Presidents Day (3rd Mon,
Garden District. featuring colorful period Feb)
Festival of Bonfires (early to costumes and artillery Memorial Day (end May)
mid-Dec and on Christmas Eve). demonstrations. Independence Day (Jul 4)
Both riverboats (see pp66–7) Labor Day (1st Mon, Sep)
and paddlewheelers ply February Columbus Day (2nd Mon,
the Mississippi River in this New Orleans Boat & Oct)
blazing festival in which local Sportfishing Show (second Veterans Day (Nov 11)
people build bonfires to guide week). A display at the
Santa Claus to their hometown Mercedes-Benz Superdome Thanksgiving (4th Thu, Nov)
for Christmas. (see p97), with all the latest Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Countdown (Dec 31). On New fishing accessories.
Year’s Eve, people gather at
Jackson Square (see p56) to
await and celebrate the arrival
of the New Year with live
music, food, and fireworks.
January
Sugar Bowl (first week).
Thousands of college
football fans gather in the
Mercedes-Benz Superdome
(see p97) for this important
postseason game.
Battle of New Orleans
Anniversary (weekend closest
to Jan 8). A live reenactment
of this 1815 battle (see p19)
takes place at Chalmette
Battlefield in St. Bernard Parish, Fireworks at the traditional Countdown on New Year’s Eve




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046-047_EW_New_Orleans.indd 46 13/08/14 2:11 pm

NEW ORLEANS


AREA BY AREA





Bourbon Street 48–49

Royal Street 50–51
Upper French Quarter 52–67
Lower French Quarter,
Marigny, and Treme 68–85
Warehouse and Central
Business Districts 86–99
Garden District
and Uptown 100–115

Mid-City 116–129
Three Guided Walks 130–137



































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48  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

A View of Bourbon Street

Today, Bourbon Street, rather than Basin Street, is
synonymous with sin. The name has nothing to do with
bourbon, despite the string of bars that line this legendary
street; it is named after the French royal family of Bourbon.
One bar after another proffers vats of such lethal concoctions
as Nuclear Kamikaze, Brain Freeze, and Sex on the Bayou,
most often to the accompaniment of blasting rock or blues.
Other venues offer everything from peep shows and topless
and go-go dancers, to drag shows and gay nights. During
Mardi Gras, the lacy balconies above the sidewalks sag from The Famous Door
the weight of drinking revelers. This nightclub comes alive to
the beat of live 1970s and 1980s
rock music.


ST
OUIS
L
ST .


ST ST ST
VILLE BIENVILLE ONTI

IBER C

Arnaud’s
Count Arnaud
Cazenave opened the
original Arnaud’s in
1918. There are 17
dining rooms with
mosaic tiles, mirrored
walls, and paddle fans
(see p174).
Galatoire’s
Run by the Galatoire family since 1905,
this restaurant has the ambience of a
perpetual cocktail party.











The World Jeweler
Lafcadio Hearn, the
Old Absinthe House famous American
This building is notable for its entresol, the journalist, once
half-story between the first and second floors. rented a room here.
An aerial view of the French Quarter



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