(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans

BA T ON ROUGE  149


Mississippi and the city VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
from the 27th-floor
observation deck. Practical Information
90 miles (144 km) NW of New
E USS Kidd Orleans. * 576,330. n 730
305 S River Rd. Tel (225) North Blvd, (800) 527-6843.
342-1942. Open 9:30am– _ Greater Baton Rouge State
3:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Fair (for 10 days, mid-Oct).
4pm, Sat & Sun. Closed Transport
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 k 9430 Jackie Cochran Drive,
∑ usskidd.com (225) 355-0333. @ Greyhound
The House Chamber, State Capitol Commissioned in 1943, Bus Lines, 1001 Loyola Ave,
this World War II destroyer (504) 524-7571.
P State Capitol saw action in the Pacific, where
State Capitol Dr at N 3rd St. Tel (225) she suffered a kamikaze attack on
342-7317. Open 8am–4:30pm daily. April 11, 1945, and 38 of the crew fascinating objects – a washing
Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, were killed. She also served in the machine dating from 1900,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 Korean War and other missions pirogues (a type of boat used on
Huey Long worked hard to until 1964, when she was decom- the bayous), cockfighting spurs,
persuade the legislators to mi ssioned. Visitors can see the and a tobacco press, to name a
approve the $5 million funding anti-aircraft guns and tour the few. Steele Burden’s paintings
for this Modernist 34-story cramped quarters shared and ceramic figures
building, erected in 1932. It by the 330-man are also displayed,
is the tallest capitol in the crew below decks. along with other
United States. Both the House collectibles. In
and Senate chambers are E Rural Life the time before it
impressive, as are the murals Museum and Old tractor at the Rural was fashionable to
in Memorial Hall. Visitors can Windrush Gardens Life Museum preserve African
still see the bullet holes in the 4560 Essen Lane at I-10. American culture,
marble walls of the first-floor Tel (225) 765-2437. Open 8am–5pm Steele also rescued all the
executive corridor, where Long daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, buildings from nearby Welham
was assassinated on September Thanks giving, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 Plantation and re-erected them in
8, 1935, by Dr. Carl A. Weiss, the Ione Burden and her brother, a typical plantation layout. Today,
son-in-law of a political enemy, Steele, who landscaped Louisiana visitors can gain some insight into
Judge Benjamin Pavy. The State University, assembled this how such a plantation functioned
grounds contain Long’s grave collection of buildings and as a self-contained community.
in a sunken memorial garden. 19th-century tools and artifacts. Crape myrtle, azaleas, and other
There are excellent views of the Each building is filled with plantings fill the adjacent gardens.

Baton Rouge Center
Arsenal
1 Louisiana Old State Capitol Park
State
2 Louisiana State University Capitol
3 Magnolia Mound Plantation R IV E R RO A D S PA N I S H TO W N R O AD
4 Old Governor’s Mansion State
5 State Capitol Library STR E E T
6 USS Kidd N O R TH
7 Rural Life Museum and M AI N STR E E T Amtrak
Windrush Gardens i LA FAYETTE ST 3R D S T 4 TH S T LA U REL 7 TH S T STRE E T Station
p FLO RIDA ST R E ET
p RI VER ROA D
i C O N VENTI O N S T R E E T
s
s B O U LE VARD
i Old Governor's NO R T H I N T E R S T AT E 11 0
s Mansion
s
i A M ER I CA S T R E E T
M Louisiana
Old State LO UISIAN A AVE N U E

Capitol

GO VE RN MEN T S T R E E T
USS Kidd
EU R OP E STR E E T
M AYF L OW ER ST R EE T
Rural Life Museum
F E R D I NAN D S T
R I V E R RO A D
ST LOUIS STREET
0 meters 600 INT ER STAT E 1 0 & Windrush Gardens
10km (6miles)
0 yards 600 Magnolia Mound Plantation Louisiana State
University
1.25km (0.75mile)
3km (1.75miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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150  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

3 Upper Mississippi Plantations

The West Feliciana Parishes, to the north of Baton
Rouge, were not included in the Louisiana Purchase
(see p19) and remained part of the Spanish domain
until 1810. The plantations in this area differ from the
southern Creole-style plantations. They were established
by British immigrants or by Americans from North
Carolina and Virginia, who made their fortunes here
and brought their own culture and architectural Living Traditions
styles. These beautiful plantations, with exceptional Many of the original workshops
surrounding gardens, are well worth visiting. and tools have been reconstructed
and are in use.




Natchez




61
Greenwood Plantation
One of the largest and most beautiful
plantation houses in the area, Green-
wood was built in 1830 by William
Ruffin Barrow in classic Greek style. 10
Jackson




Alexandria
61
1
St Francisville
61

Butler Greenwood M i s s i s s i p p i
Built in 1796, this house Morganza
is thoroughly Victorian, 10
both in its architecture
and furniture. 1

Baton Rouge
New
1 Roads
0 kilometers 5
0 miles 5
The Myrtles
Built between 1796 and 1830, the
Myrtles plantation is exceptionally
well preserved. Its 120-ft- (40-m)-
long cast-iron gallery is its most
extravagant exterior feature.




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UPPER MISSISSIPPI PLANT A TIONS  151







NEW ORLEANS


Locator Map


Cottage Plantation
With its original 14-karat gold wallpaper in
the parlor, this offers one of the best stays
in the area. Andrew Jackson stayed here
after the Battle of New Orleans (see p19).

Natchez




61

Catalpa
This little Victorian cottage is
10 surrounded by 30 acres of splendid
Jackson gardens. Tours of the interior reveal
numerous interesting historic
family heirlooms.


Alexandria
61
1
St Francisville
61
M i s s i s s i p p i
Morganza
10
1

Baton Rouge Oakley House
New Naturalist John James Audubon (see p113)
1 Roads tutored James Pirrie’s daughter, Eliza, at this
plantation. Many of Audubon’s original prints
are on display. Fascinating nature trails are
also available.



Rosedown Key
This plantation has remarkable
original furnishings, plus fine Major road
formal gardens. Minor road




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152  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

Exploring the Upper Mississippi Plantations

North of Baton Rouge, the plantations were established by
British or Americans, who held on to their Anglo-Saxon
heritage. A different architecture with Greek Revival
influences is dominant in this area. These grand plantation
house buildings were once the hubs of thriving businesses,
relying on slavery until it was officially abolished in Louisiana
in 1864. Many of these plantations have been restored and
are now charming B&Bs, whilst others, such as Rosedown
Plantation, offer a fascinating insight into what life would
have once been like in the state.

parties he gave in the gardens,
which were landscaped with a One of the two old slave cabins at
pond complete with an island Cottage Plantation
for picnics, a deer park, and
several summer houses. He bois. The property includes
also maintained greenhouses several outbuildings, one of
filled with exotic tropical which has been converted into
plants including banana, a restaurant. Overnight lodging
Butler Greenwood, surrounded by guava, and mandarin. is also offered.
beautiful gardens
E Cottage Plantation P Greenwood Plantation
E Butler Greenwood 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville. 6838 Highland Rd, St. Francisville.
8345 Hwy 61, St. Francisville. Tel (225) Tel (225) 635-3674. Open 10am–4pm Tel (225) 655-4475. Open Nov-Feb:
635-6312. Open 9am–5pm daily. & daily. Closed major holidays. & 8 10am–4pm; Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm.
8 ∑ butlergreenwood.com ∑ cottageplantation.com Closed Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksgiving,
Pennsylvania Quaker physician The land on which this house Dec 25. & 8 7 ∑ green
Samuel Flower founded stands was granted to John Allen woodplantation.com
this plantation in 1796. His and Patrick Holland in 1795. In 1830, James Hammon
daughter, Harriet, ran it for Judge Thomas Butler Coulter designed this majestic
most of the 19th century as a purchased the original Greek Revival home for William
cotton-producing plantation. cottage and property in Ruffin Barrow, who had
Today, it is still a working 1810. He was the son of migrated from the Carolinas. It
plantation operated by Colonel Thomas Butler, stood on 12,000 acres, which
the eighth generation one of the five fighting were worked by 750 slaves.
of the family. Family Butlers who served under Some 40 outbuildings housed
portraits hang General Washington workshops that made the
throughout the house, during the American plantation completely self-
which contains many Revolution (1775–83). He sufficient. The Barrows became
of the original Exhibit at Butler extended the house to one of the most prominent
19th-century Greenwood accommodate his family. families in the area, but
furnishings, including The interiors are lavishly anticipating the Civil War, they
a fine 12-piece parlor set decorated with 14-karat gold- sold the plantation. It survived
made of rosewood and leaf wallpaper and plenty of faux the war serving as a hospital,
upholstered in the original
scarlet-colored fabric. The
plantation also offers lovely
B&B-style accommodation.
E Catalpa
9508 Hwy 61, St. Francisville. Tel (225)
635-3372. Open by appointment only.
Closed Dec 15–Jan 31. & 8
The current building is a
reconstruction of the original,
which was destroyed in a fire in
1885. Carolinian William J. Fort
established the plantation in the
early 1800s. He was famous for
his hospitality and for the many Greenwood Plantation, furnished with impressive antebellum pieces




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UPPER MISSISSIPPI PLANT A TIONS  153


but afterward it deteriorated
rapidly. In 1906, Mr. and Mrs.
Frank Percy restored it, salvaging
the marble mantels and silver
hinges and doorknobs.
Tragically, in 1960, lightning
destroyed the entire structure,
except for the 28 massive Doric
columns. It has since been
restored, and visitors can once
again see the splendor of the
70-ft- (21-m)-long central hall
and the rest of the interior.
Greenwood runs a B&B and is
a popular venue for weddings.
Greenwood Plantation, one of the largest American-style plantations
E The Myrtles
7747 Hwy 61, St. Francisville. Tel (225) cedar and cypress, has a double colonial architecture was adapted
635-6277. Open 9am–5pm daily. gallery supported by Doric to the Louisiana climate. The
Closed major hols. & 8 7 columns. Other sections of the surrounding bosky paradise
∑ myrtlesplantation.com house feature Georgian details. is inhabited by numerous
A leader of the Whiskey The Turnbull family owned species of birds.
Rebellion (1794) in Pennsylvania, and operated the plantation In 1821, naturalist John James
Judge David Bradford fled south from 1835 to 1955. Practically Audubon (see p113) and his
and established this plantation all of the contents of the house assistant arrived to teach
in 1796. He built the north wing are original, including rosewood daughter Eliza Pirrie dancing,
of the house and in the early furniture by Mallard and music, drawing, and math. He
1800s, his daughter and her Seignoret, portraits by Thomas and his assistant received room
husband, Judge Clark Woodruff, Sully, brocade draperies, and and board and $60 a month.
added the 107-ft- (36-m)-long marble mantels. Daniel The arrangement did not last,
gallery. Ruffin Gray Stirling and Martha Turnbull, who and he left after only four
bought the house in 1834, established the plantation in months, having quarreled with
and added the south wing. 1835, purchased most of the his employer. Still, in that brief
Local legend says that several furnishings on their initial Grand time he began at least 32 bird
murders were committed here Tour of Europe in 1834 and on portraits, which later appeared
and that the house is haunted. subsequent trips abroad. The in The Birds of America. Today,
Special tours on Friday and grounds contain a kitchen visitors can see the room
Saturday nights highlight its building, the doctor’s office, Audubon stayed in and wander
haunted history. Bed-and- a barn, and a gardener’s the trails around the property.
breakfast accommodation is tool house. The 28 acres of Magnolias, beeches, and
also available. French-style gardens are poplars still shelter abundant
exquisite too. Martha Turnbull bird life in the state park
was a well-known horticulturist, surrounding the house.
who introduced the first azaleas
and camellias to the region.
In 2000, the state of Louisiana
purchased the plantation from
a private owner, who had
unfortunately sold some of the
original furnishings. The estate
has been renovated and now
offers a fascinating 45-minute
The handsome cast-iron veranda tour of the house and grounds.
surrounding The Myrtles
P Oakley House and
E Rosedown Plantation Audubon State Historic Site
12501 Hwy 10, St Francisville. Hwy 965, St. Francisville. Tel (225)
Tel (225) 635-3332. Open 9am–5pm 635-3739. Open 9am–5pm daily.
daily. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25, Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25, Jan 1.
Jan 1. & 8 & 8
Rosedown is one of the largest Wealthy Scottish immigrant
and most complete of the James Pirrie built this house
plantations along the river. The between 1808 and 1810, and Study used by John James Audubon in
gabled central structure, built of it is a fine example of the way Oakley House




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154  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS


developed from the same
traditions but incorporates
much more Afro-Caribbean
rhythm and style.
The Hall of Fame features the
great names in Cajun music,
from such early musicians as
Amédé Ardoin, Alphé Bergeron,
Dennis McGee, Joe Falcon,
Amédé Breaux, Iry Lejeune,
and Lawrence Walker, to more
recent interpreters, including
Michael Doucet, Zachary
Richard, and Wayne Toups.
Heading from Eunice to
Opelousas along Highway
The Liberty Theater, home of the Rendez-Vous des Cajuns radio show 190, there is The Savoy
Music Center, the informal
4 Eunice day. The key ingredient, a headquarters for Cajun
chicken, has to be chased musicians in the area. The store
Cajun Country. * 11,000. @ 1238 W
Landry St. n 200 South CC Duson Dr, down and caught live. is owned by accordion-maker-
(337) 457-2565. ∑ eunice-la.com Located nearby are two musician Marc Savoy and his
other cultural centers. wife, Ann. It sells musical
Every weekend there is a The Cajun Music Hall instruments, CDs,
Cajun music celebration in of Fame & Museum, and books on Cajun
this picturesque Louisiana which opened in culture and music.
town, where most of the main 1997, honors the On Saturday
attractions are in the downtown ori ginators of Cajun mornings, local
area. The town was founded music and the musicians assemble
by C. C. Duson in 1893, who artists who have in the front of the
named it in honor of his wife. kept the tradition store for a jam
The Liberty Theater is the alive. It displays session around the
keeper of the flame of Cajun memorabilia, ins- upright piano. They
music – the Grand Ole Opry of truments such as Cajun accordion in The Savoy bring accordions,
Cajun music. It opened in the accordions and Music Center triangles, and
1920s as a movie and vaudeville violins, photographs, fiddles, and play
theater. Every Saturday from and biographies of the together, making for a rousing
6 to 8pm, the theater hosts a 40 inductees. spectacle. People can bring
live broadcast of the Rendez- Cajun music is a blend of beer, boudin, and other snacks.
Vous des Cajuns radio show. It is several traditions – German, Visitors are welcome to listen
filled with Cajun and zydeco Scottish, Irish, Spanish, Afro- and join in.
music and plenty of good Cajun Caribbean, and Native American
humor. The master of ceremonies – which have been laid over E The Liberty Theater
makes introductions in both a base of French and French- 200 Park Ave. Tel (337) 457-7389.
English and French. Acadian folk tradition. Zydeco Open 4pm Sat. & 7
Visitors to The Prairie
Acadian Cultural Center,
located just behind the
theater, can observe musical
instruments and other items
being made in the craft room.
Other displays focus on
aspects of Acadian culture,
including the Courir. Literally
“to run,” this is the Cajun, and
distinctly medieval, version of
Mardi Gras. Participants wear a
capuchon (a tall, cone-shaped
hat, which covers the face as
well as the head) and ride on
horseback from farm to farm
begging for the ingredients for
a community gumbo, which
will be eaten at the end of the Mardi Gras costume and memorabilia at The Prairie Acadian Cultural Center




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C A JUN C OUNTR Y  155


the historic local architecture.
A tourist information center
is also located here, as well as
a small museum devoted to
native son Jim Bowie, who
was the hero of the Alamo and
the namesake of the well-
known frontier knife.
Evangeline Downs Racetrack
& Casino is a state-of-the-art
racing facility that opened in
2003. The track offers both
quarter horse and thoroughbred
racing (on separate dates). It
Opelousas Museum and Interpretive Center is a “racino,” that is, a racetrack
with a full casino component,
E The Prairie Acadian The Opelousas Museum of Art which is a growing institution
Cultural Center stands in the oldest part of the among US racetracks. The
250 W Park Ave. Tel (337) 457-8499. city, in a historic Federal-style casino consists primarily of
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–6pm brick building, built originally as slot machines.
Sat. Closed 25 Dec. 7 a one-story tavern. The second
story was added in 1828. Today, E Opelousas Museum
The Cajun Music Hall 315 N Main St. Tel (337) 948-2589.
of Fame & Museum the museum mounts several Open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed
240 South CC Duson Dr. Tel (337) 457- shows each year featuring art major hols. & 7
6534. Open summer: 9am–5pm Tue– on loan from major museums
Sat; winter: 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat. and private collections. E Opelousas Museum of Art
Closed major hols. 7 Recent shows have focused 106 N Union St. Tel (337) 942-
on paintings by Louisiana’s 4991. Open 1–5pm Tue–Fri,
The Savoy Music Center
Hwy 190 East, Savoy. Tel (337) African American folk painter, 9am–5pm Sat. Closed major hols.
457-9563. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Clementine Hunter, jazz 7 &
9am–noon Sat. Closed major hols. 7 photographs taken by William P Le Vieux Village
P. Gottlieb, and the wood 28 E Landry St. Tel (337) 948-6263.
engravings made by Winslow Open 10am–2pm Tue–Fri.
5 Opelousas Homer for Harper’s Weekly. Closed major hols. 8 7
A slice of Opelousas life is
Cajun Country. * 11,000. on view at Le Vieux Village, a Evangeline Downs Racetrack
n 828 E Landry St, (800) 424- collection of buildings dating & Casino
5442. ∑ cityofopelousas.com from the 1700s, including a 2235 Creswell Lane Extension.
Tel (337) 407-2121. Open Feb–Sep
church, schoolhouse and (racetrack); 24 hrs daily (casino).
This city, the capital of doctor’s office, that offers 0 = 7 ∑ evangeline
Confederate Louisiana during visitors an opportunity to view downs.com
the Civil War (see pp20–21), was
named after the Native American
tribe that lived in this area
before the Europeans arrived. It
was founded as a French
trading post settlement during
the 1700s, and is now one of
the liveliest towns in this district,
thanks to its cuisine and music.
The major collections of the
Opelousas Museum focus on
the local culture and history. The
museum’s two main exhibit
areas are devoted to the
prehistory of the area, its
agricultural and commercial
development, and to the people
of different races and religions
who contributed to the region’s
culture. One room is devoted
to Civil War memorabilia, while
another houses a collection of
more than 400 dolls. Main facade of the Opelousas Museum of Art




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6 Lafayette

When the first Acadians arrived in 1764, they settled along the
bayous and in the prairie lands west of New Orleans. Being
rural people, they worked as farmers and made a living from
the swamps. Lafayette is Cajun country’s largest city. It is at
the heart of the Cajun culture, because of the strong Arcadian
family traditions and cultural heritage. Community centers,
restaurants, several detailed reconstructions of Cajun villages,
and its own local architectural style have imprinted this city
with a unique atmosphere and the distinctive feeling of
being in the Cajun Country.

E Acadian Cultural Center P Lafayette Museum/
501 Fisher Rd, Lafayette. Tel (337) Alexandre Mouton House Harp on display at the Alexandre
232-0789. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Fri, 1122 Lafayette St, Lafayette. Mouton House
8:30am–noon Sat. Closed Dec 25. 7 Tel (337) 234-2208. Open 9am–
A 37-minute film dramatizes 4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1–4pm Sun. – a notable example of Cajun
the British deportation of the Closed major hols. & 7 success. The house contains
Acadian population from Jean Mouton, founder of furnishings, paintings, maps, and
Canada’s Acadie, and charts Lafayette, built the original house documents relating to the city’s
their diaspora to France and around 1800. He history, plus some glittering Mardi
to places along the east and his wife Marie Gras costumes and regalia.
coast of North and their 12
America, before children used it only on E Paul and Lulu Hilliard
their final Sundays when they came University Art Museum
arrival in Louisiana. In from their plantation in 1710 E St. Mary Blvd, Lafayette.
an adjacent display Old-fashioned Carencro to attend Tel (337) 482-2278. Open 9am–5pm
area, informative Cajun plough church and socialize. In Tue & Thu, 9am–8pm Wed, 10am–
exhibits, featuring 1825, the sixth son, 5pm Sat. Closed major hols. & 7
photographs and artifacts, focus Alexandre, moved his family and ∑ museum.louisiana.edu
on every aspect of Acadian law practice into the house. He This small art museum is
culture, including language, later became a United States located on the campus of
music, architecture, religion, senator and governor of Louisiana the University of Louisiana
cuisine, the Cajun Mardi Gras,
and all kinds of handcrafts.
E Vermilionville
300 Fisher Rd, Lafayette. Tel (337) 233-
4077. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun (last
admission 3pm). Closed major hols.
& 7 ∑ vermilionville.org
This fascinating living-history
museum features a collection
of buildings dating from 1790
to 1890 assembled into a
typical Cajun village on 23 acres.
Its name, Vermilionville, was
the original name for the city
of Lafayette. Costumed artisans
demonstrate the skills that
were needed to survive
in 18th- and 19th-century
Louisiana; woodworking,
blacksmithing, spinning,
weaving, and cooking. It is
pleasant to wander from
building to building imagining
what traditional Cajun life was
like. A performance hall, where
Cajun bands regularly entertain,
is open in the afternoon. Original Acadian chapel in Vermilionville




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LAF A Y E T TE  157

























The Paul and Lulu Hilliard University Art Museum, a 2001 design in steel, stone, and glass
at Lafayette, an institution steel with state-of-the-art E The Acadian Village
with 17,000 students, which exhibition spaces. It has many 200 Greenleaf Dr, Lafayette.
has an excellent Computer outstanding works of art, Tel (337) 981-2364. Open 10am–4pm
Science department and is also including European and Mon–Sat. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
home to both the National American art from the 18th, Dec 25, Mardi Gras. & 7
Wetlands Research Center and 19th, and 20th centuries, and ∑ acadianvillage.org
the Center for Louisiana Studies. a wide assortment of 2nd At this version of a recreated
The museum was founded in century BC Egyptian artifacts. 19th-century village, most
1968 and has a permanent This permanent exhibition of the buildings are original,
collection of more than 1,500 also includes an excellent although they have been
works including paintings, collection of African American moved here from other
sculpture, folk art, and textiles. folk art. Diverse architectural locations. The houses are
The emphasis is on the cultural drawings, as well as student furnished with typical Cajun
heritage of Louisiana. In 2001, works, are displayed along furniture and tools, and are
the museum moved to a bold with temporary exhibits all tended by costumed guides
modern building of glass and year long. who demonstrate such skills
as spinning, weaving, and
blacksmithing. One of the
The Acadians residences was the birthplace
Driven by the British from Acadia, in Nova Scotia, Canada, of state senator Dudley LeBlanc,
the Acadians (or “Cajuns”) settled along the bayous of Louisiana the creator of a cure-all tonic
in 1764, working as farmers. For generations they were called Hadacol, which was still
disparaged, and in the 20th century their culture came in use as recently as the 1950s.
under threat, first when compulsory education was
introduced in 1916 and the French language was
forbidden, and later in the 1930s when Huey Long
(see p148) built roads across the swamps, opening
their communities to a wider world. When oil
was discovered, the transformation intensified;
outsiders flooded in and the Francophone culture
was endangered. The culture survived largely
because Cajuns have a strong sense of family and
attachment to place. Today, Cajun Country is the
largest French-speaking community in the United
States. In the 1960s, Cajun pride was restored when
the teaching of French returned to the classrooms.
At the same time, Cajun and zydeco music started
growing in popularity among a broader audience,
Traditional and Cajun cuisine, promoted by chef Paul
Acadian dress Prudhomme (see p174), spread across the country. Dentist’s chair at the Acadian Village’s
infirmary




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158  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS


180-acre state park that
stretches along Bayou Teche.
It offers pleasant picnicking and
walking trails among 300-year-
old oaks. At the center of the
park stands a reconstruction
of a typical Acadian cabin
representative of the 1790s.
This can be contrasted with
the Olivier House, a plantation
home built in 1815. The cypress
and brick structure has 14-inch
(36-cm) thick walls. There is also
a museum, which focuses on
The Acadian Memorial in St. Martinville Acadian history and culture.
7 St. Martinville ending, placing her as a nurse at E Acadian Memorial
his bedside as he lay dying. 121 S New Market St. Tel (337) 394-
Cajun Country. * 8,000. n 215 2258. Open 10am–4:30pm daily.
Evangeline Blvd, (337) 394-2233. St. Martin de Tours Church is Closed major hols. 7 &
∑ stmartinville.org the focal point of St. Martinville.
Established in 1765 by French R St. Martin de Tours Church
This small picturesque town missionaries, it was the first 133 S Main St. Tel (337) 394-6021.
on a natural levee of the Bayou church to serve the Acadian Open 8am–6pm daily. Closed noon–
Teche was founded in 1765 as community. Fairly plain inside, 6pm Fri. 7 ∑ stmartindetours.org
a military outpost. It became it contains a baptismal font, E Petit Paris Museum and
known as “Petit Paris” (little which was a gift from Louis XVI, Gift Shop
Paris) because many French and a replica of the grotto at 103 S Main St. Tel (337) 394-7334.
noblemen settled there Lourdes. The grave of Evangeline Open 9:30am–4:30pm daily.
after fleeing the French Labiche (mythol ogized as Closed Dec 25. 7 &
Revolution. Located in Longfellow’s Evangeline) and E The Longfellow-Evangeline
the main square of this a bronze statue of her are State Commemorative Area
town is the Acadian located in the garden behind 1200 N Main St. Tel (337) 394-
Memorial, which the church. The monument 3754. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun.
houses the mural was donated by actress Dolores Closed Thanks giving, Dec 25, Jan 1.
painted by Robert del Río, who played the role of 7 8
Dafford, The Arrival Evangeline in the silent movie
of the Acadians in filmed here in 1929. Also on the 8 New Iberia and
Louisiana, which church square there is the Petit
portrays some 40 Paris Museum and Gift Shop, Avery Island
people, who arrived which houses the historical Cajun Country. * 32,000. @ 1103 E
in Louisiana records of the most important Main St. n 2513 Highway 14, (888)
Acadian between 1764 and events in the town’s life. The 942-3742. ∑ cityofnewiberia.com
Memorial 1788. The painter Longfellow-Evangeline State
went so far as to Commemorative Area is a New Iberia is notable for its
model some of the portraits on many sugar cane plantations.
contem porary descendants. The area also owes its wealth
Opposite the painting, the Wall to oil drilling and salt mining.
of Names lists about 3,000 early In fact, the so-called “islands” in
Aca dians. Behind the museum, the region, such as Avery and
an eternal flame burns in a Jefferson, are not actually
small courtyard garden surrounded by water; rather
overlooking Bayou Teche. they are domes located atop
Nearby stands the salt mines.
Evangeline Oak, marking the At the plantation home
spot where the two famous known as Shadows on the
Acadian lovers, Gabriel and Teche, 40 trunks were found
Evangeline, supposedly in the attic, filled with 17,000
encountered each other. letters, photographs, receipts,
Gabriel confessed that after and papers relating to the
three years in exile he had family who lived here. This
despaired of ever seeing her documentation is used as
again and married another. She back ground for the fascinating
went mad and died soon after. St. Martin de Tours church at the center tour of the house. A native of
Longfellow’s poem changes the of St. Martinville Maryland, David Weeks, built




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C A JUN C OUNTR Y  159


the plantation home in 1831.
He died shortly there after,
leaving his wife, Mary Clara, to
run it. During the Civil War (see
pp20–21), when Union General
Nathaniel P. Banks seized it and
made it his headquarters, Mary
Clara retired to the attic where
she died in 1863. The last owner,
Weeks Hall, was a well-known
artist and scholar, who restored
the house and entertained
many famous visitors in it,
including director Cecil B.
DeMille and writer Henry Miller.
Their names are inscribed in
the foyer. Moss-draped oaks and spring-flowering plants in the Jungle Gardens
On Avery Island, the
McIlhenny Company Tabasco the beaver-like nutria. In winter, drilled through the salt dome,
Factory and Jungle Gardens wildfowl stop here too. causing an explosion that
is the source of the famous The Rip Van Winkle House set off a minor tidal wave on
hot sauce, which is an essential and Gardens are located on the lake. Miracu lously, no one
ingredient in Bloody Marys and the salt dome called Jefferson was killed.
in local cuisine. Approximately Island. It was built by the actor
75 acres of pepper plants blaze Joseph Jefferson in 1870 and P Shadows on the Teche
their bright red color from named after the role he played 317 E Main St, New Iberia.
August to November. A brief 4,500 times. Architecturally, Tel (337) 369-6446. Open 9am– 5pm
film explains the process in it is a hodgepodge of Moorish, daily. Closed major hols. &
which the red chili peppers are Steamboat Gothic, and Victorian. ∑ shadowsontheteche.org
crushed and combined with The house is surrounded by E McIlhenny Company Tabasco
salt and vinegar to make the 25 acres of beautiful gardens, Factory and Jungle Gardens
zesty sauce. Visitors can also which are on the banks of Hwy 329, Avery Island. Tel (337)
tour the bottling factory. Lake Peigneur. 365-8173. Open 9am–4pm daily.
The founder considered After Jefferson died in 1905, Jungle Gardens: Tel (337) 369-6243.
himself a botanist-naturalist J. Lyle Bayless of the Salt Island Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed major
and the Jungle Gardens that he Mining Company purchased hols. 7 & 8 ∑ tabasco.com
assembled are spectacular. In the house. Shortly afterward, P Rip Van Winkle House
addition to abundant camellias oil was discovered on the and Gardens
and azaleas, there are such property. It was soon 5505 Rip Van Winkle Rd, Jefferson
exotica as Latin American producing up to 250,000 Island. Tel (337) 359-8525.
papaya. The gardens also shelter barrels of oil a week from Open 9am–4pm daily.
a diverse population of egrets, 30 wells. In 1972, the Texaco Closed public hols. 7 8
herons, and peacocks, as well as Oil Company mistakenly ∑ ripvanwinklegardens.com





















Shadows on the Teche in New Iberia
Colorful wares on display at a market in the French Quarter



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TRAVELERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 162–167

Where to Eat and Drink 168–181
Shopping in
New Orleans 182–189

Entertainment in
New Orleans 190–199














































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162  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

New Orleans is a big convention city as well as a boutique options; or step back in time at one
popular tourist destination, and offers a varied of the several plantation inns. There are also
range of accommodation. From well-known several historic homes that have been conver-
chains such as the Hilton and Marriott, to the ted into charming B&Bs. Additionally, there are
swanky Ritz-Carlton, this city has it all. For a many lower budget hostels and guesthouses,
more personal touch, choose from the lovely which are perfect for those with simpler needs.


and guesthouses are scattered AAA, AARP, or senior citizen rates.
throughout the city, mostly Some chains offer discount rates,
Uptown, Mid-City, the lower so look at hotel or travel websites
French Quarter, and the for special deals. Package tours
Faubourg Marigny. may also offer savings from
hotel or B&B accommodations
to airport/hotel transportation.
How to Book Check online for specials.
If visiting the city during Mardi
Gras or the Jazz and Heritage
Festival, travelers will need to Bed and Breakfasts
book six months to a year in Guesthouses and boutique
advance. At other times, a few hotels are usually in renovated
months’ advance booking is historic homes, and B&Bs are
advisable. Reservations can be rooms in a private residence.
made over the phone or online All offer some meals, full
using a credit card. A deposit of breakfasts or just coffee and
Le Pavillon Hotel in the Business District one night is usually required, croissants, and often, after noon
(see p166) and there are specific cancellation tea or cocktails are provided. All
policies and fees that guests have a limited number of
Hotel Prices and Services
should clarify at the time of rooms, so advance reservations
New Orleans offers booking. If guests anticipate are necessary. Some budget-
accommodations to fit any arriving after 6pm, they should priced guesthouses and B&Bs
budget, from the least expensive ask for guaranteed late arrival. have shared bathrooms, and
hostel to the fabulous French Most hotels have toll-free facilities for disabled guests
Quarter hotels and guesthouses. reservation numbers, and can be limited. For bookings,
Prices vary according to the many take reservations by check Bed & Breakfast
location and the level of luxury; email. For reservations, check Reservation Service.
many boutique hotels are as New Orleans Convention
expensive as the splendid high and Visitors Bureau.
rises, and if the hotel or B&B is in Youth and Budget
Accommodations
the French Quarter, the price will
reflect this sought-after location. Special Rates New Orleans has a few hostels,
Prices can rise by more than When making reservations, it as well as some guesthouses
100 per cent during Mardi Gras, doesn’t hurt to ask for special with shared bathrooms that are
holidays and special events, and
usually require a minimum stay.
All hotel accommodations,
unless otherwise stated, include
air-conditioning, non-smoking
rooms, and full bathrooms.
In the off-season, such as
the summer, special rates and
packages offer great discounts.
Where to Look
Most hotels are located in the
French Quarter or in the Central
Business District, the latter being
within walking distance of both
the Quarter and the Convention
Center. Bed and breakfasts (B&Bs) Lobby of the Omni Royal Orleans hotel (see p166)




162-163_EW_New_Orl.indd 162 05/08/16 3:56 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  163

Recommended Hotels
The accommodations featured
on pages 164–7 represent
a wide variety of lodgings found
in the region, ranging from
basic standard hotels and cheap
hostels to unique and historical
converted residential buildings
and even antebellum plantation
homes. The various themes
include luxury hotels that
demand high rates for exemplary
and thoughtful service as well as
grand amenities, modern hotels
that are mid-range accommod-
A perfect welcome at the Hotel Monteleone (see p166) ations favored by business
travelers offering clean lines and
modestly priced. Many motels standard 15 per cent tip. If the latest gadgets, guesthouses
on the outskirts of the city are staying more than one night, that offer more privacy in a
also fairly inexpensive. guests should leave $1–$2 a day historical setting or budget rates,
for the housekeeping staff. and traditional B&Bs with live-in
owners host their guests.
Facilities Unique to this region is
Traveling with Children
Most establishments offer full a heavy concentration of large
facilities, such as comfortable Most hotels welcome children, historic mansions with
rooms, cable TV, phone, Wi-Fi, although many historic beautiful and individual rooms
mini-bars, and full bathrooms. guesthouses and B&Bs prohibit to rent that are more luxurious
Often the larger hotels have one children under 12. Children aged than a guesthouse or B&B.
or two fine restaurants, several up to 12, 16, or 18 (depending Some are located in the city
bars, a fitness room, a swimming on the place) can usually stay while others are centered on
pool, spa, and a business center. for free in their parents’ room. large former plantations
At virtually every hotel, you will dotting the surrounding rural
find complimentary toiletries, areas. In selecting these
newspapers, room service, and accommodations, factors such as
wake-up and reservation services. convenient location, reasonable
Because the weather in rates, exemplary service,
New Orleans is semi-tropical, historical notoriety, and unique
all accommodations are air- atmosphere were used to
conditioned. B&Bs generally provide a broad range of popular
do not offer all these amenities, options. Listings labeled “DK
but the ambience in these Choice” are given prominence
homes makes up for any lack due to unique qualities such
of facilities. as value, luxury, historical
significance, or a superlative
guest experience.
Hidden Extras
Hotels will add 13 per cent DIRECTORY
hotel tax and 9.75 per cent sales
tax to the bill plus an additional How to Book
$1–$3 for “room night tax.” Valet A four-poster bed in one of the upscale bed
parking can cost from $12 to and breakfasts New Orleans Convention
$25 a day. Some hotels and Disabled Travelers and Visitors Bureau
B&Bs have free parking, so 2020 St. Charles Ave,
always ask ahead. Hotel All hotels in the United States New Orleans, LA 70130.
telephone charges are often are required by law to provide Tel (504) 566-5011.
very high. It is cheaper to use a wheelchair-accessible
pay phone in the lobby or a cell accommodations, however, ∑ neworleanscvb.com/hotels
phone, partic ularly when designated historic properties
calling overseas. Guests may be are exempt from this provision. Bed and Breakfasts
required to pay a premium on They may have at least one
products in the mini-bar. A tip room equipped for disabled Bed and Breakfast
of $1–$2 per bag is usually paid guests. If a traveler has special Reservation Service
to the bellman for carrying bags. needs, it is wise to call the ∑ neworleansbandbs.com
Room-service waiters expect the hotel in advance to confirm.




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164  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Mid-City Price Guide
B&Bs 1896 O’Malley House $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
120 S Pierce St, 70119 high season for a standard double room,
Lower Quarter Tel (504) 488-5896 Map 2 A3 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
and Marigny ∑ 1896omalleyhouse.com $ under $100
Intimate B&B with superb service. $$ $100 to 250
Marigny Manor House $$ Boasts gourmet breakfasts, plus $$$ over $250
2125 North Rampart St, 70116 tablet computers in all rooms.
Tel (504) 943-7826 Map 3 E4 The Myrtles Plantation $$
∑marignymanorhouse.com DK Choice 7747 U.S. 61, St. Francisville, 70775
A romantic, 19th century Tel (225) 635-6277
antebellum home that has been Ashton’s Bed & Breakfast $$ ∑ myrtlesplantation.com
restored to its former grandeur, 2023 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Wildly popular 300-year-old
complete with crystal chandeliers Tel (504) 942-7048 Map 3 D3 plantation house, said to be
and antique artworks. ∑ ashtonsbb.com haunted. Antique finishings
This Greek Revival-style B&B and furniture add to the
offers luxurious rooms with spooky allure.
Garden District suites in the main house and
and Uptown smaller rooms in the servants’ Oak Alley Plantation Bed
quarters. A huge courtyard and Breakfast $$
Fairchild House $ shaded by an ancient oak is 3645 Hwy 18, Vacherie, 70090
1518 Prytania St, 70130 perfect for relaxing. Serves Tel (225) 265-2151
Tel (504) 524-0154 Map 8 B2 hearty, Southern-style breakfasts. ∑ oakalleyplantation.com
∑ fairchildhouse.com Famous Greek Revival-style
Delightful mid-19th century plantation house featured in
house and adjoining buildings, Degas House $$ many movies. Offers rooms
offering rooms ranging from 2306 Esplanade Ave, 70119 in cottages.
standard to deluxe. This popular Tel (504) 821-5009 Map 2 C3
spot for weddings offers an on- ∑ degashouse.com The Old Castillo Bed
site minister. Edgar Degas once lodged in this and Breakfast $$
Grand Italianate house, now also 220 Evangeline Blvd,
Avenue Inn B&B $$ a museum. Minimalist rooms. St. Martinville, 70582
4125 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tel (337) 394-4010
Tel (504) 269-2640 Map 7 E4 ∑ oldcastillo.com
∑ avenueinnbb.com Beyond New Orleans This grand building once
An 1891 Queen Ann-style Bois des Chenes Inn $$ served as a Catholic school.
mansion filled with period 338 N Sterling St, Lafayette, 70501 The spacious rooms are
antiques. Spacious, bright rooms. Tel (337) 233-7816 classically furnished.
A complimentary continental ∑ boisdechenes.com
breakfast is served in the dining The rooms here are replete Shadetree Inn $$
room or on the Creole-style with Louisiana French and 9704 Royal St, St. Francisville, 70775
verandah, weather permitting. American antiques. Tel (225) 635-6116
∑ shadetreeinn.com
Sully Mansion $$ Estorge-Norton House $$ Hidden atop a forested hill
2631 Prytania St, 70130 446 E Main St, New Iberia, 70560 in a bird sanctuary, this inn
Tel (504) 891-0457 Map 7 F3 Tel (337) 365-7603 offers high-end luxuries and
∑ sullymansion.com ∑ estorge-nortonhouse.com unique suites.
Superb breakfasts at this B&B A 1910 charmer adorned with
with lavish multi-course meals fine antiques. Their signature T’Frere’s House $$
on weekends and continentals breakfast dish, pain perdu, is 1905 Verot School Rd, Lafayette, 70508
on weekdays. Ornate architecture. served daily. Tel (337) 984-9347
∑ tfrereshouse.com
Famous B&B, refurbished and
under different ownership.
Offers gourmet breakfasts and
complimentary cocktails.
Guesthouses
Upper French Quarter
Grenoble House $$
323 Dauphine St, 70112
Tel (504) 522-1331 Map 4 C2
∑ grenoblehouse.com
This 19th-century gem offers
well-appointed suites with
fully-equipped kitchens that
Traditional decor at Ashton’s Bed & Breakfast make guests feel at home.




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WHERE T O ST A Y  165

Lower Quarter Andrew Jackson Hotel $$
and Marigny 919 Royal St, 70116
Tel (504) 561-5881 Map 5 D1
Hotel Villa Convento $$ ∑ frenchquarterinns.com
616 Ursuline Ave, 70116 Listed on the National Register
Tel (504) 522-1793 Map 5 D1 of Historic Places. Basic
∑ villaconvento.com amenities. Free continental
An 1830s Creole townhouse with breakfast. The location is hard
suites as well as budget rooms. to beat in the heart of the
Attentive, personal service. The French Quarter and for a
property is rumored to be the reasonable price.
original “House of the Rising Sun“.
Claiborne Mansion $$
Pierre Coulon Guest House $$ 2111 Dauphine St, 70116
714 Spain St, 70117 Tel (504) 301-1027 Map 3 E4
Tel (504) 943-6692 Map 5 F1 ∑ claibornemansion.com
∑ pierrecoulonguesthouse.com Facade of the historic Lafayette Hotel, Colonial-style mansion popular
A tranquil rental with only overlooking Lafayette Square with celebrities. Carved fire places
one unit, ensuring personal and canopy beds in each room as
attention from the owners. Mid-City well as large marble baths and
The house was built in 1831 period features.
and is a classic example of India House Hostel $
Creole architecture. 124 S Lopez St, 70119 Cornstalk Hotel $$$
Tel (504) 821-1904 Map 2 B3 915 Royal St, 70116
DK Choice ∑ indiahousehostel.com Tel (504) 523-1515 Map 5 D1
∑ thecornstalkhotel.com
Well suited to the limited budget,
Sunburst Inn $$ this vibrant hostel offers live Victorian mansion furnished
819 Mandeville St, 70117 music, crawfish boils, and parties. with authentic period antiques.
Tel (504) 947-1799 Map 3 F1 It is famous for its cornstalk cast-
∑ sunburstinn.net Beyond New Orleans iron fence.
This charming inn, built in
1905, has bright rooms, 3-V Tourist Court $ Lanaux Mansion $$$
stained-glass windows, and 5687 Commerce St, 547 Esplanade Ave, 70116
a lovely courtyard with a hot St. Francisville, 70775 Tel (504) 330-2826 Map 5 D1
tub. Accommodations include Tel (225) 721-7003 ∑ lanauxmansion.com
one suite and one room. The ∑ themagnoliacafe.net A Renaissance Revival Victorian
friendly owners make guests One of the last remaining classic mansion. The suites are almost
feel right at home. American motor courts in the decadent in size and comfort.
state. It comprises rows of small,
renovated cabins with a period
feel next to the Magnolia Café, Warehouse and Central
Garden District where live music is on offer on Business Districts
and Uptown Friday nights.
Lafayette Hotel $$
St. Charles Guest House $ 600 St. Charles Ave, 70130
1748 Prytania St, 70130 Tel (504) 524-4441 Map 4 B4
Tel (504) 523-6556 Map 8 A3 Historic ∑ lafayettehotelneworleans.com
∑ stcharlesguesthouse.com Upper French Quarter Century-old Beaux-Arts-style
Great value, considering its hotel with mahogany furniture.
location in the Lower Garden Prince Conti Hotel $$ It overlooks a leafy square and is
District. Pool on site. You can step 830 Conti St, 70112 handy for the streetcar line.
out and catch a streetcar either Tel (504) 529-4172 Map 4 C2
Up- or Downtown, and there are ∑ princecontihotel.com Garden District
plenty of local dining options Named for the famous French and Uptown
aristocrat, this hotel is housed in
St. Vincent’s Guest House $ a stately 18th-century building.
1507 Magazine St, 70130 Great lounge and restaurant. Its DK Choice
Tel (504) 302-9606 Map 8 B3 location in the centre of the
∑ stvguesthouse.com Quarter is hard to beat. Columns Hotel $$
Former 1860s orphanage 3811 St. Charles Ave, 70115
with hostel-and hotel-style Tel (504) 899-9308 Map 7 E4
rooms. The vast grounds Lower Quarter ∑ thecolumns.com
have historical charm and and Marigny This landmark antebellum
there’s a swimming pool for mansion-turned-hotel has an
guests to enjoy. Hotel Storyville $ intimate character and ambience.
1261 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Offers complimentary Southern
Creole Gardens Guesthouse $$ Tel (504) 948-4800 Map 3 E4 breakfast daily. Order a Sazerac
1415 Prytania St, 70130 ∑ hotelstoryville.net from the Victorian bar and sit
Tel (866) 569-8700 Map 8 B2 Hotel Storyville is a large under the massive columns on
∑ creolegardens.com antebellum home with just a the best front porch in town
Old Greek Revival home with a few, well-appointed rooms. It is while watching the St. Charles
Colonial/Caribbean vibe. Offers located in Esplanade Ridge, just a Avenue Streetcar rumble past.
basic but clean rooms. short walk from the Quarter.
For more information on types of hotels see page 163
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166  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Lower Quarter
Luxury and Marigny
Upper French Quarter Hotel de la Monnaie $$$
Hotel Maison de Ville $$$ 405 Esplanade Ave, 70116
727 Toulouse St, 70130 Tel (504) 947-0009 Map 5 E1
Tel (504) 324-4888 Map 4 C2 ∑ hoteldelamonnaie.com
∑ maisondeville.com Plush hotel with original 1980s
Tennessee Williams and many fixtures. Located close to popular
other celebrities have stayed sights and the streetcar.
here. Small rooms but with fine
furniture and modern amenities. Soniat House $$$
The cottages out back are more 1133 Chartres St, 70116
modern and overlook a Tel (504) 522-0570 Map 5 D1
charming courtyard. ∑ soniathouse.com
An elegant place with great
DK Choice service. Rooms feature antiques.
A breakfast of homemade
Elegantly furnished room at the popular Hotel Monteleone $$$ biscuits and jams is served by the
Hotel Monteleone 214 Royal St, 70130 butler every morning.
Tel (504) 523-3341 Map 4 C3
Grand Victorian Bed ∑ hotelmonteleone.com
and Breakfast $$ One of the most famous hotels Warehouse and Central
2727 St. Charles Ave, 70130 in the city, this historical place Business Districts
Tel (504) 895-1104 Map 7 F3 has been family-owned and
∑ gvbb.com operated since 1886. Features The Hotel Modern $$$
Palatial Victorian home, full of two restaurants, a rooftop 936 St. Charles Ave, 70130
antiques. Each room is named cocktail lounge, a fitness center, Tel (504) 962-0900 Map 4 B5
after a famous plantation. a spa, and a heated rooftop ∑ thehotelmodern.com
pool, as well as their famous Boutique hotel overlooking Lee
The Green House Inn $$ rotating carousel bar. Circle. Rooms are adorned with
1212 Magazine St, 70130 art and books from their library.
Tel (504) 525-1333 Map 8 B2
∑ thegreenhouseinn.com Omni Royal Orleans $$$ International House $$$
Horticulture-themed 19th-century 621 St. Louis St, 70140 221 Camp St, 70130
townhouse with tropical gardens. Tel (504) 529-5333 Map 4 C2 Tel (504) 553-9550 Map 4 C3
Clothing-optional pool. ∑ omniroyalorleans.com ∑ ihhotel.com
Award-winning hotel with European flair meets Southern
great service. Has a popular opulence in this boutique hotel
Beyond New Orleans five-star restaurant and a that flaunts traditional decor with
Butler Greenwood Plantation $$ rooftop pool. a contemporary twist.
U.S. Hwy 61, St. Francisville, 70775
Tel (225) 635-6312 The Ritz-Carlton $$$ Le Méridien New Orleans $$$
∑ butlergreenwood.com 921 Canal St, 70112 333 Poydras St, 70130
Romantic individual cottages Tel (504) 524-1331 Map 4 B3 Tel (504) 525-9444 Map 4 C4
with heirloom furniture. ∑ ritzcarlton.com ∑ lemeridienneworleanshotel.com
Luxurious, large rooms with Perfect place for the young and
The Guesthouse at all the top amenities that are hip. Boasts a rooftop pool, bar
Hemingbough $$ hallmarks of this excellent chain. and a great restaurant.
10591 Beach Rd, St. Francisville, 70775 The dining choices are top
Tel (225) 635-6617 notch and there is free jazz on Le Pavillon Hotel $$$
∑ hemingbough.com offer in the Davenport Lounge 833 Poydras St, 70112
Replica of an 1830s plantation on the weekend. Tel (504) 581-3111 Map 4 B3
home that once stood here. Part ∑ lepavillon.com
of a large, multi-functional retreat. Royal Sonesta Hotel $$$ Golden-age building with interiors
300 Bourbon St, 70130 like a royal palace. Rooms have
Rip Van Winkle House Tel (504) 586-0300 Map 4 C2 extravagant drapes and ornate
& Gardens $$ ∑ sonesta.com fireplace mantels.
5505 Rip Van Winkle Rd, New Resplendent hotel with one of
Iberia, 70560 the finest jazz clubs in town. The Roosevelt $$$
Tel (337) 359-8525 Street-facing rooms are noisy. 123 Baronne St, 70112
∑ ripvanwinklegardens.com The lobby has many shops. Tel (504) 648-1200 Map 4 B3
Romantic plantation house with ∑ therooseveltneworleans.com
beautifully manicured grounds. W French Quarter $$$ Highlights at this uber-chic hotel
316 Chartres St, 70130 include the Blue Room and the
The Stockade Bed Tel (504) 581-1200 Map 4 C3 historic Sazerac Bar.
& Breakfast $$ ∑ wfrenchquarter.com
8860 Highland Rd, Baton Rouge, 70808 Done up in the brand’s signature Windsor Court Hotel $$$
Tel (225) 769-7358 eclectic style; offers all modern 300 Gravier St, 70130
∑ thestockade.com conven iences and good service. Tel (504) 523-6000 Map 4 C4
Spanish-style hacienda with nice The outdoor pool surrounded by ∑ windsorcourthotel.com
rooms, and lots of birds. It is on the trees and an intricate iron gate Ranked one of the best hotels
National Register of Historic Places. has a French Riviera feel. in the country. The theme here is
Key to Price Guide see page 164
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WHERE T O ST A Y  167

traditional English high society. Old 77 Hotel $$
Service is impeccable. Modern 535 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130
Upper French Quarter Tel (504) 527-5271 Map 4 C4
∑ old77hotel.com
Garden District Maison Dupuy Hotel $$ Arty and design-led hotel with
and Uptown 1001 Toulouse St, 70116 quirky rooms and a casual feel.
Tel (504) 586-8000 Map 4 C2 Great on-site restaurant and bar.
Magnolia Mansion $$$ ∑ maisondupuy.com
2127 Prytania St, 70130 Popular place with an impressive DK Choice
Tel (504) 412-9500 Map 8 A3 courtyard area with a pool and
∑ magnoliamansion.com fountain, a good restaurant, and Royal St. Charles Hotel $$
Beautiful mansion with fanciful a cocktail lounge. 135 St. Charles Ave, 70130
architecture. The mansion was Tel (504) 587-3700 Map 4 C3
commissioned in 1857 for wealthy Lower Quarter ∑ royalsaintcharles.com
brokers. Children not allowed. and Marigny The interior and exterior design
features of this boutique hotel
Frenchmen Hotel $$ range from postmodern to
Beyond New Orleans 417 Frenchmen St, 70116 psychedelic. Beyond the unique
Greenwood Plantation $$ Tel (504) 945-5453 Map 5 E1 styling, this tidy hotel has a
6838 Highland Rd, ∑ frenchmenhotel.com great location, just a block from
St. Francisville, 70775 Close to popular music clubs, the French Quarter and Canal
Tel (225) 655-4475 this hotel is a favorite with locals. Street along the streetcar line.
∑ greenwoodplantation.com The cottages are arranged around
Rooms in modern cottages. a small but lovely pool.
Serves outstanding breakfasts. Staybridge Suites $$
The original 19th-century Hotel Provincial $$ 501 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130
plantation house has been used 1024 Chartres St, 70116 Tel (504) 571-1818 Map 4 C4
in several movies. Tel (504) 581-4995 Map 5 D2 ∑ staybridgeneworleans.com
∑ hotelprovincial.com Ideal for business travelers and
DK Choice Award-winning hotel with families. Loaded with amenities
to meet every need.
two swimming pools, an
Nottoway $$ atmospheric bar and the fine-
31025 Louisiana Hwy 1, White dining restaurant, Angeline.
Castle, 70788 Garden District
Tel (225) 545-2730 Le Richelieu Hotel $$ and Uptown
∑ nottoway.com 1234 Chartres St, 70116
The largest plantation mansion Tel (504) 529-2492 Map 5 D1 Prytania Park Hotel $
along the Mississippi River, ∑ lerichelieuhotel.com 1525 Prytania St, 70130
Nottoway is a full resort, comp- Exuding an old-world European Tel (504) 524-0427 Map 8 A3
lete with tennis courts, spa, pool, charm; very popular with ∑ prytaniaparkhotel.com
and more. Dining options honeymooners. A salt-water pool Spanning several buildings with
include the elegant Mansion sits in a lushly planted courtyard. varying styles of accommodation;
Restaurant and the more casual from Victorian to standard motel.
Le Café at the weekend.
Warehouse and Central Best Western Plus
Business Districts St. Charles Inn $$
Madewood Plantation $$$ 3636 St. Charles Ave, 70115
4250 Louisiana 308, Aloft New Orleans Downtown $$ Tel (504) 899-8888 Map 7 E4
Napoleonville, 70390 22 Baronne St, 70112 ∑ stcharlesinn.com
Tel (985) 369-7151 Tel (504) 581-9225 Map 4 A5 Spacious, clean rooms, if a bit
∑ madewood.com ∑ aloftneworleansdowntown.com basic. Hotel services are limited,
This Greek temple-like mansion A budget-conscious version of but the location is good, right on
is a National Historic Landmark. the trendy W brand, the design the street car line.
It serves gourmet breakfasts here is young and vibrant, with
and dinners. basic but good value rooms.
Beyond New Orleans
Travelodge Lafayette $
1101 W Pinhook Rd, Lafayette, 70503
Tel (337) 234-7402
∑ travelodge.com/lafayette
For tourists exploring Cajun
Country who require a pool,
this is the best deal. Simple,
clean rooms.
The Cook Hotel $$
3848 W Lakeshore Dr, Baton
Rouge, 70808
Tel (225) 383-2665
∑ thecookhotel.com
Mostly popular with students and
business travelers, with a nice pool
Lavish interior of one of the historic rooms in the mansion at Nottoway resort and quality furnishings.
For more information on types of hotels see page 163
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168  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Even when other major cities in the US were makes the best po’boy (sandwich), bread
living in a culinary wasteland, New Orleans pudding, and so on. The same is true for drinks.
had a reputation for fine, flavorful Creole A local pharmacist invented the cocktail, and
cuisine. Food matters in this city – locals bartenders here are adept at making Sazeracs,
argue about who sells the best oysters, where a range of mint juleps, and such lethal con-
to get the finest turtle soup or gumbo, who coctions as the Obituary Cocktail (see p172).


10am and 3pm on weekends
and can cost anywhere
between $30 and $50.
At lunchtime, a light meal costs
about $7 or $10, usually served
bet ween 11am and 2:30pm.
Prices are lower at lunchtime
than at dinner in the better
restaurants. Dinner is generally
served from 5 to 10pm, or until
11pm on Friday or Saturday
nights. At a moderately priced
place, main dishes might range
from $14 to $24. In the very best
restaurants, like Commander’s
Elegant interiors of Restaurant August (see p177) Palace or Emeril’s, be prepared
to spend over $100 per person.
Places to Eat In addition, there are Italian, A few places are open all night
Top-flight restaurants are found Mediterranean, Vietnamese and and many are closed on Mondays.
throughout the city, particularly other ethnic restaurants, plus
in Uptown and Downtown plenty of places for cheap, good Taxes and Tipping
neighborhoods. Recently, chefs food, such as po’boys, muffuletta
such as Susan Spicer, Emeril (a special local sandwich), pizza, A sales tax of 9 per cent is added
Lagasse, Frank Brigtsen, John and the ubiquitous dish of red to the bill in all restaurants. In
Besh, and others, who beans and rice with sausage. general, diners should tip 15
are updating the traditional New Orleans residents also care per cent of the check for service;
cuisine, are generating the passionately about coffee, and 20 percent if the service is
most excitement. There are the city has many excellent superb. If the service is bad,
plenty of good-quality coffee shops which also offer there is no need to tip at all, but
restaurants that are producing baked goods. some restaurants automatically
traditional Creole and Cajun add a tip, especially for large
dishes – gumbo, oysters groups, so check.
Rockefeller, jambalaya, crawfish Other Places to Eat
étouffée, barbecue shrimp, New Orleans offers a broad range
and other zesty specialties of venues, other than restaurants, Dining on a Budget
(see pp172–3). in which to eat good food. Many Do not eat breakfast at the
hotels have excellent dining hotel unless it is complimentary.
rooms open to the public, and Seek out a coffee shop or deli
there are various delis and corner and feast on delicious croissants
groceries that sell sandwiches and strong coffee. At lunch, pop
or pre-prepared meals known into a corner grocery and order
as “hot lunch.” Also look out a po’boy or hot plate, and picnic
for mobile food trucks and somewhere. Depending on
temporary “pop-up” eateries. the hour, some restaurants
offer fixed-price menus that
are usually cheaper.
Hours and Prices
Breakfast is usually available
between 7 and 11am and can be Reservations
inexpensive or super-expensive – At the best restaurants,
depending on the restaurant. reservations need to be made
Commander’s Palace (see p179), one of the Jazz brunches, a New Orleans considerably in advance. Some
city’s finest restaurants tradition, are served between restaurants, however, do not take




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  169


reservations, so be prepared to
stand in line or enjoy a cocktail
in the bar while waiting.

Dress Code
New Orleans is a relaxed city
and most places will allow the
stan dard attire of jeans and T-shirt.
Several of the more upscale
restaurants require a jacket, and
can also lend one. Just to be on
the safe side, dress smart-casual.
A vegetarian option at Arnaud’s restaurant (see p174)
Children
Vegetarian Food
Children are welcome at any subsisted mostly on wild game.
restaurant and booster seats or There are plenty of options for Today, the culinary landscape
high-chairs are usually available. vegetarians to eat well in New continues to diversify with the
Some restaurants offer special Orleans. Although much Creole development of “contemporary”
menus for children. The legal and Cajun food is meat-based, Creole cuisine and the influences
drinking age is 21, and children most restaurants serve vegetarian of European, Caribbean, Latin
are not allowed in bars. dishes such as salads, if American, and Asian immigrants.
requested. Most Vietnamese Many local chefs depart from the
and Thai restaurants have standard Creole style by adding
Wheelchair Access
many vegetarian options. their own modern spin or incor-
Although all restaurants have porate foreign influences to
been required by law to be Recommended create Italian and French Creole.
wheelchair accessible since the Some chefs are so inventive, their
early 90s, some restaurants in Restaurants menus do not fit into any cate-
designated historical buildings There are over 1,000 restaurants gory clearly. This guide provides
are exempt. It is always best to in the greater New Orleans area. suggestions from across a wide
call ahead and inquire. Most are rooted in the Louisiana range of culinary options and
Creole tradition that grew out for all budget levels. Restaurants
of African, Latin, and European have been chosen for their
Smoking
culinary influences, adapting to exceptional food, service, and
Smoking is prohibited in all the plentiful regional seafood atmosphere. Certain restaurants
Louisiana restaurants and bars. and spices. Cajun cook ing is labeled “DK Choice” are highlight-
It is permitted on patios, another indigenous style and ed for a particular uniqueness,
balconies, and in outside areas has its roots in rural French be it a special dish found nowhere
attached to restaurants and cooking, brought to the region else, a distinctive atmosphere,
bars, but ask before lighting up. by the Acadian settlers who or a one-of-a-kind experience.




















Classy dining area at Latil’s Landing (see p181)




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170  tr a velers ’ needs


The Flavors of New Orleans

new Orleans is one of america’s culinary capitals, with a unique
cuisine spawned by two distinct cultures: Creole and Cajun.
Creole is the legacy of refined, city-dwelling descendants of
the early French settlers. From the application of classic French
techniques to local produce, a rich, sophisticated new cuisine
was created. the Cajuns settled in louisiana after being ousted
from both France and acadia (nova scotia), living in the bayous,
hunting and fishing for indigenous foods. their traditional dishes
are spicier, the fiery seasonings tempered by long-simmering. a
glossary of typical dishes and ingredients can be found on page 173. Hot chili peppers
Louisiana Produce
onions, cauliflower, and garlic.
It owes its origins to Italian One of the best-known
dock workers. Another is the Louisiana products is crawfish
po’boy, a submarine roll piled (called crayfish elsewhere),
high with roast beef, ham, which are grown locally. They
shrimp, or oysters, along with breed in the muddy bayous
mustard, onions, herbs, and and ponds of Cajun country,
spices. You may be asked if you and are harvested in little
want your sandwich “dressed,” boats from December to May.
which will include the addition Meanwhile, oyster aficionados
of tomatoes, lettuce, pickles, will tell you there’s nothing as
and mayonnaise. good as plump, salty Louisiana
A plate of luscious Louisiana crawfish on
a bed of rice Shrimp Oysters Crab Crawfish
Only in New Orleans
Several dishes are unique
to New Orleans. A breakfast
of beignets (deep-fried,
sugary-sweet donuts) and
chicory coffee shows the
French influence. The city’s
contributions to sandwich
culture include the muffuletta,
a large, round roll containing
cold cuts of meat, Provolone
cheese and a dressing of
chopped olives, olive oil, Selection of the finest Louisiana shellfish
Local Dishes and Specialties
Both Cajun and Creole cooking often begin with a roux,
the base of many dishes including gumbos, etouffées
and sauces. A roux is simply flour and oil,
stirred constantly over a flame until the right
shade of brown for each dish is achieved.
The darker the roux, the more intense
the flavor. It is the deep, dark roux that
gives a distinctive smoky, nutty flavor to
gumbo. Every cook has his or her own
gumbo recipe, but it always begins with
Okra pods the roux used to thicken and flavor home-
made stock, and includes sausage, a “trinity” of onion, celery, and
bell pepper, scallions, cayenne pepper and a sprinkling of filé Jambalaya Similar to Spanish
power (ground sassafras leaves) on the top. Filé is used to thicken paella, this spicy rice dish may
as well as to season; another thickening is okra, which lends a feature seafood, ham, chicken,
silky texture to dishes. andouille, and more besides.






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Hot Stuff!
Peppery sauces are a staple of
Cajun cooking and a favorite
New Orleans souvenir. Food
shops offer as many as 40
varieties, from mild to blazing
hot, and some have “tasting
bars” where you can sample
before you buy. Tabasco, made
on a Louisiana plant ation
since the 1800s, is now a
favorite worldwide.
Some key ingredients of New Orleans cuisine at the French Market
Classic Dining
oysters on the half shell. Emeril Lagasse is the best
Sassafras is a Native American known of those bringing Antoine’s Founded in 1840
ingredient that features “nouveau” touches, including and filled with memorabilia.
strongly in New Orleans Asian influences, to classic Oysters Rockefeller was invented
cuisine, while okra was dishes. Other culinary stars in here (see p174).
introduced by African slaves. the city are Susan Spicer of Arnaud’s A maze of dining
Two local pork products show Bayona (see p174); John Besh of rooms decorated with theat rical
their French origins in their Restaurant August (see p177), panache. The jazz brunch is
names. Almost every Cajun and Donald Link at Herbsaint recommended (see p174).
chef has a personal recipe (see p177). Muriel’s A favorite upscale
for boudin sausage, a highly eatery with large windows
seasoned pork and rice looking out on to Jackson
sausage. Andouille is another Square (see p176).
classic which, unlike its French Commander’s Palace A classic
namesake, is a hard, spicy – don’t miss the bread pudding
smoked Cajun pork sausage. soufflé (see p179).
Galatoire’s A 1905 landmark
Old Versus New that still draws some of the city’s
best old families (see p174).
The current culinary battle in The French Market This
New Orleans pits the old school outdoor and covered market
of traditional cooking versus features superb fresh local
the new wave of chefs who produce (see p72).
want to innovate. One of the K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
first to gain renown was Paul One of the few truly Cajun
Prudhomme, the creator of eateries in town. The menu
“blackened fish,” a dish that was is heavily influenced by the
never a part of Cajun fare but is Display of traditional Louisiana hot seasonal local produce (see p174).
now widely associated with it. pepper sauces














Crawfish Etouffée The name Gumbo Made with rice and Bananas Foster Bananas are
means “smothered,” with okra, as well as chicken, seafood sautéed in butter, sugar, and
sautéed crawfish being served or andouille, this Creole soup is cinnamon, flamed in rum
in a thick, piquant sauce. as thick as a stew. and served over ice.






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172  T r A velers ’ N ee D s

What to Drink in New Orleans

A long tradition of good drinking is one of New Orleans’
trademarks. There are a wide variety of cocktails served
throughout the city, some of which were invented here.
Delicious and easy to drink, many are extremely potent
concoctions. The local beers are also worthy: New Orleans
has a top-class microbrewery. The city is a coffee-drinker’s
delight and has its own distinctive chicory-flavored dark Pat O’Brien’s (see p49), where the popular
roast coffee – a favorite of residents and visitors alike. Hurricane was created
Cocktails
New Orleans was the birthplace of many
cocktails. Local pharmacist Antoine Peychaud’s
store was located near the corner of Royal and
St. Louis streets, and he is said to have invented
the cocktail around 1830 when he combined
cognac “Sazerac” mixed with his own bitters
recipe, a drop of water, and a pinch of sugar.
Peychaud mixed this in an egg cup “coquetier,”
which his English-speaking customers
mispronounced as “cocktail.” Today, the Sazerac
is one of New Orleans’ most famous drinks:
The Sazerac The Hurricane Mint Julep rye whiskey (or bourbon) is combined with
bitters and sugar, and flavored with Pernod
and lemon peel.
The Hurricane, served in a special glass, is very
sweet and combines dark rum with passion fruit
and other juices. The Mint Julep is made with
bourbon, sugar, fresh mint, and crushed ice. The
Vieux Carré mixes rye, cognac, vermouth, bitters,
and a dash of Benedictine. For the Obituary
Cocktail, a lethal drink created at Lafitte’s
(see p80), add half a jigger of Pernod to a gin
Martini. Bartender Henry Ramos shook the
first Ramos Gin Fizz in 1888, combining sugar,
Vieux Carré Obituary Ramos orange flower water, citrus juice, gin, egg
Cocktail Cocktail Gin Fizz white, cream, and seltzer into a refreshing drink.
Pousse Café is a mix of six cordials – raspberry
Beer and Wine
and maraschino syrups, crème de menthe,
New Orleans is a beer town. Look for such local curaçao, chartreuse, and cognac.
brews as Abita and Dixie, plus those made by
the microbrewery Crescent City Brewhouse.
A variety of wines are also available Coffee
in the city’s restaurants, New Orleanians love coffee, and it comes
particularly fine French in all roasts and styles.
and California vintages. Community Coffee, French
Market, and CDM are
the three most famous
Louisiana brands. The Café
du Monde (see p78) serves
“café au lait,” the traditional
dark roast chicory-flavored
coffee with hot milk. “Pure” coffee
If you don’t like the
somewhat bitter taste
of chicory, just ask for
“pure” coffee; you’ll get
a tasty cup of dark or
medium roast coffee.
Dixie and Abita Amber, Red and white Espresso, extra-strong
local beers California wines coffee, is also available. Café espresso




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where TO ea T a N d dri N k  173

Glossary of New Orleans Food

The distinctive cuisine of New Orleans has its own vocabulary.
Some styles and ingredients are particular to Creole and
Cajun cooking; others are more common but take on that
special Louisiana touch. Creole dishes often have as their base
peppers, onions, and tomatoes, and can be more refined than
the flavorful Cajun one-pot dishes.
Vegetables and fruit for sale in the
Andouille Crawfish French Market
A hard, smoked, spicy Cajun Known elsewhere as crayfish,
sausage made with pork. these deliciously sweet, small granulated and colored sugars.
Bananas Foster crustaceans are prepared in A tiny doll, repre senting the
Bananas sprinkled with brown various ways like stews, etouffée, baby Jesus, is hidden inside.
sugar and flambéed in rum and or boiled (see p171). Maque Choux
banana liqueur (see p171). Crawfish Boil A Cajun dish made with a
Barbecued Shrimp Crawfish boiled in mixture of corn, tomatoes,
Jumbo shrimp in their water seasoned with onions, and cayenne pepper.
shells sautéed in oil and mustard, coriander, Mirliton
butter, garlic, peppers, dill, cloves, all-spice, A pear-shaped squash with
and spices. bay leaves, and the prickly ribbed skin.
Beignet main ingredient, Muffuletta
Deep-fried square dried chilies. A sandwich combining Italian
donut (no hole), covered Ripe bananas, used Dirty Rice deli meats, and one or two
in powdered sugar. for desserts Rice cooked with kinds of cheese on an Italian
Biscuits chicken livers and round loaf slathered with olive
Flour and baking powder rolled gizzards, and other seasonings. salad – pickled olives, celery,
and baked, often served with Eggs Sardou olive oil, carrots, cauliflower,
eggs at breakfast. Eggs poached on artichoke and garlic.
Boudin bottoms, cradled on a bed of Okra
Highly seasoned Cajun pork creamed spinach, and covered A pod vegetable, originally
sausage combined with rice. with hollandaise. from Africa, served as a side
Bouillabaisse New Etouffée dish or used in Cajun gumbos
Orleans-style Literally “smothered,” a method and stews.
A spicier version of the French of cooking slowly with little Pain Perdu
seafood dish. liquid, in a covered pan. The local version of French toast
Cajun Filé (bread fried with eggs).
A style of cooking that combines Filé refers to the dried ground Po’Boy
French methods with local sassafras leaves used to thicken A big French bread sandwich,
Southern ingredients. and flavor gumbos. with shrimp, oysters, ham, roast
Calas Grits beef, or a combination.
Fried sweet rice cakes. Ground, cooked corn grains Pompano en Papillotte
Chow Chow served at breakfast with A sweet fish common in Gulf
A relish usually made with butter, salt, pepper, waters, baked in an
green pickles, green tomatoes, and eggs. oiled paper bag to
and green cayenne peppers. Gumbo retain its full flavor.
Courtbouillon of Redfish A spicy, thick soup Pralines
A seafood stew, prepared containing shrimp, A candy patty made
with local fish, spices, and crawfish, oysters, with brown sugar
white wine. okra, and served over Shrimp cocktail and pecans.
rice (see p171). Shrimp Remoulade
Gumbo z’Herbes Shrimp with a mayonnaise-based
A meatless version of gumbo, sauce seasoned with mustard,
made during Lent. anchovies, gherkins, scallions,
Jambalaya lemon, spices, and herbs.
A mixture of rice, seafood, Sweet Potato Pie
Tasso (ham), vegetables, and Made with sweet potatoes
seasoned with onion, green flavored with cinnamon,
peppers, and celery (see p170). nutmeg, and ginger.
King Cake Tasso
Oranges and other fruits, used as A round cake made during Highly spiced smoked ham
ingredients in Creole food Mardi Gras. It is sprinkled with seasoned with red pepper.




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174  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Arnaud’s $$$ Price Guide
Upper Creole Map 4 C2 For a three-course meal for one,
French Quarter 813 Bienville St, 70112 half a bottle of house wine, and all
Tel (504) 523-5433 unavoidable extra charges including tax.
Camellia Grill $ Be sure to reserve a table in $ under $30
Diner Map 4 C2 advance at this wildly popular $$ $30 to $60
540 Chartres St, 70130 dining institution. It serves the $$$ over $60
Tel (504) 522-1800 finest examples of classic Creole
American-style diner with cuisine in a quintessential Pelican Club $$$
engaging and friendly waitstaff. old-world New Orleans-style Modern Creole Map 4 C3
Serves breakfast and burgers dining room. 312 Exchange Pl, 70130
all day and night. Wildly popular Tel (504) 523-1504
for late night snacks after a Bayona $$$ Tucked down an alley, this
night of celebrating. International Map 4 C2 hidden gem keeps a low profile.
430 Dauphine St, 70112 The dishes offered are rooted in
DK Choice Tel (504) 525-4455 Closed Sun the Creole tradition with Italian,
Home to one of the top local
French, and Asian influences,
Galatoire’s $$ celebrity chefs, Susan Spicer, adding a unique modern flair
Creole Map 4 C3 who has built her menu around to their menu.
209 Bourbon St, 70130 organic, locally sourced, hand-
Tel (504) 525-2021 Closed Mon picked ingredients. Dishes Rib Room $$$
Few restaurants embody tend to change seasonally American Map 4 C2
the traditional culture and but all remain creative with a 621 St. Louis St, 70130
style of New Orleans high French influence. Tel (504) 529-7045
society than Galatoire’s, with Friday lunch is the busiest time at
its focus on both the elegant Doris Metropolitan $$$ this hotel restaurant, frequented
environment as well as American Map 4 D2 by many of the city’s powerful
excellent Creole cuisine. 520 Chartres St, 70130 elite for socializing. It serves the
If diners are willing to wait in Tel (504) 267-3500 best prime rib in the city and
line, lunch on Fridays is the This upscale steakhouse is the menu includes traditional
best time to experience this the only place in the city to seafood dishes.
unique place. dry-age its beef and offers an
extensive wine list. Superior
cuts and a classy dining room.
Nola $$ Lower Quarter
Creole Map 4 C2 K-Paul’s Louisiana and Marigny
534 St. Louis St, 70130 Kitchen $$$
Tel (504) 522-6652 Cajun Map 4 C2 Bennachin $
The most casual and slightly 416 Chartres St, 70130 African Map 5 D1
less expensive of the three Tel (504) 524-7394 Closed Sun 1212 Royal St, 70116
New Orleans restaurants owned Chef Paul Prudhomme is Tel (504) 522-1230
by famed local chef Emeril credited by many as putting The name of this friendly eatery
Lagasse. The desserts are Cajun cooking on the gourmet roughly translates to jambalaya
particularly superb, especially map by adding his own creative in Central Africa, which is where
the chocolate bourbon spin to this rural cuisine. Dishes the owners come from. Dishes
pecan pie. rotate regularly, changing with are not too exotic but can be
the seasonal local produce and spicy. Many vegetarian options
SoBou $$ seafood markets. are offered.
Creole Map 4 C3
310 Chartres St, 70130
Tel (504) 552-4095
A popular venture by the
famed Brennan family, SoBou
focuses heavily on drinks, with
table-mounted beer taps and
signature cocktails. There are
creative menu items such as the
foie gras burger with duck egg.
Antoine’s $$$
Creole Map 4 C2
713 St. Louis St, 70130
Tel (504) 581-4422
Opened in 1840, this fifth-
generation, continually operated
tradition is the oldest family-
run restaurant in the country.
Seafood dominates the menu,
with oysters served in every
way imaginable. Bar at the elegantly-decorated Rib Room
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 174 05/08/16 3:56 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  175

Fiorella’s Café $ town. The seafood gumbo is
Italian Creole Map 5 D1 another specialty worth trying.
1136 Decatur St, 70116
Tel (504) 553-2155 Eat $$
Casual local mainstay serving Creole Map 4 C1
mainly salads, sandwiches, and 900 Dumaine St, 70116
fried Southern favorites. The Tel (504) 522-7222 Closed Mon
menu is simple and their slow- Serving a simple, straightforward
cooked fried chicken is definitely menu of southern favorites
worth the wait. such as chicken and dumplings,
and butter beans, this bright
Kukhnya $ restaurant is very reasonably
Slavic Map 3 E3 priced. No alcohol is served
2227 St. Claude Ave, 70116 but diners can bring their own
Tel (504) 265-8855 bottle (BYOB).
The back of the rock music bar
Siberia is home to this delightful Dining area at the popular Marigny Elizabeth’s $$
Slavic kitchen, which serves Brasserie & Bar Creole
classic dishes such as pierogi, as 601 Gallier St, 70117
well as great burgers. Specializing in sandwiches and Tel (504) 944-9272
sides, served until midnight, it Besides serving the most
Lost Love Lounge Vietnamese also offers limited delivery to the delicious brunch in town,
Kitchen $ Marigny and French Quarter. Elizabeth’s also dishes up great
Vietnamese Map 3 F4 lunches and dinners. The best
2529 Dauphine St, 70117 DK Choice tables are in the intimate down-
Tel (504) 949-2009 stairs dining room, which is
Small, dark and hidden in the back Adolfo’s $$ adorned with folk art.
of a hipster bar, this unassuming Italian Map 5 E1
Vietnamese eatery has a loyal 611 Frenchmen St, 70116 Feelings $$
local fan base. Everything is good Tel (504) 948-3800 French Creole Map 5 F1
on its limited menu, especially Hidden above a smoky dive 2600 Chartres St, 70117
the pho and spring rolls. bar, this tiny, funky little place Tel (504) 945-2222 Closed Mon,
is easy to miss. There are only a Tue & Wed
Mimi’s in the Marigny $ few tables in the intimate dining Only open four days a week,
Café Map 5 F1 room, and it opens to the small this casual gourmet restaurant
2601 Royal St, 70117 kitchen where diners can watch has one of the most charming
Tel (504) 942-0690 the chef prepare traditional dining rooms in town. The food
Popular with the young and hip Italian offerings. The focus at here is consistently good, with
crowd, this bar/restaurant serves Adolfo’s is food and atmosphere, influences of old-world France.
mainly tapas, which are better and everything else takes a
than one would expect from its back seat. Horns $$
gritty atmosphere. The dining Diner Map 4 C2
room gets lively at night with 1940 Dauphine St, 70116
live music and DJ dance parties. Arabella Casa di Pasta $$ Tel (504) 459-4676
Italian Map 3 D4 A popular neighborhood and
Mona’s Café $ 2258 St. Claude Ave, 70116 locals' spot, especially for
Middle Eastern Map 5 E1 Tel (504) 267-6108 brunch, Horns serves elevated
504 Frenchmen St, 70116 The pasta here is freshly made diner food and has dog-friendly
Tel (504) 949-4115 every day and there's a “construct street-side tables that make a
This local chain restaurant serves your own dish“ menu with a great people-watching spot in
many standard Mediterranean/ choice of pasta and gourmet the heart of the Mairgny Triangle.
Middle Eastern dishes that are sauces. There are also daily specials
better than all the others. Portions and homemade desserts. Irene’s Cuisine $$
are large enough to share. The Italian Map 5 D2
lamb kebabs are the best choice. Cane and Table $$ 539 St. Philip St, 70116
International Map 3 E4 Tel (504) 529-8811 Closed Sun
Praline Connection $ 1113 Decatur St, 70116 Expect long lines for dinner at
Creole Map 5 E1 Tel (504) 581-1112 this romantic Italian spot, which
542 Frenchmen St, 70116 This high-end tiki cocktail bar has more seafood on the menu
Tel (504) 943-3934 also has a well-respected and than the typical Italian place. Do
Call it soul food or comfort Creole eclectic menu of small and large try the superb Oysters Irene.
– Praline Connection focuses on plates and a superb courtyard.
the New Orleans mainstays. Great Brunch is served on Saturdays Marigny Brasserie & Bar $$
fried chicken, crawfish etouffée, and Sundays. Creole Map 5 E1
gumbo – and pralines as well. 640 Frenchmen St, 70116
Coops Place $$ Tel (504) 945-4472
Verti Marte Deli $ Cajun Map 5 D1 Popular with tourists intent
Deli Map 5 D1 1109 Decatur St, 70116 on trying something “local”,
1201 Royal St, 70116 Tel (504) 525-9053 this neighborhood-style
Tel (504) 525-4767 A local institution that attracts restaurant is relaxed and
Understated and overlooked lots of tourists at peak times, go casual. Large windows provide
by many, this deli is famous early or late to Coops Place for endless oppor tunities for
among locals in the Quarter. some of the best jambalaya in people-watching.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 169
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 175 05/08/16 3:56 pm

176  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Mister Gregory's $$ has a lively atmosphere. The
Café Map 3 D4 lines are long but the food
806 N Rampart St, 70116 is worth waiting for.
Tel (504) 407-3780
Authentic French fare is hard Rock-n-Sake $
to find in NOLA, but this casual Japanese Map 4 C5
café-restaurant does a great job, 823 Fulton St, 70130
with a range of scrumptious Tel (504) 581-7253 Closed Mon
sandwiches, croques, pain Offers the usual Japanese fare,
perdu, and some of the best with excellent fresh sushi and
coffee in the Quarter. Breakfast is creative special rolls. Where it
served all day. really gets unique is the funky
interior, celebratory vibe, and
Port of Call $$ of course, loud music.
American Map 5 D1
838 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Ruby Slipper Café $
Tel (504) 523-0120 Café Map 4 C3
Port Of Call only does two 200 Magazine St, 70130
things – great hamburgers Tel (504) 525-9355
and strong drinks – and they Breakfast doesn’t get much
do them better than anyone. Entrance to Muriel’s, one of the city's most better than this – fresh
The choice is limited and heavy popular restaurants ingredients, subtle Creole
on the meats. The restaurant's influences, and reasonable
popularity ensures a long wait. Muriel’s $$$ pricing. Friendly saff help the
Creole Map 5 D2 day get off to a great start.
Snug Harbor $$ 801 Chartres St, 70116
American Map 5 E1 Tel (504) 568-1885 Cochon $$
626 Frenchmen St, 70116 The cuisine at this very Cajun Map 4 C5
Tel (504) 949-0696 successful restaurant covers all 930 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130
One of the few jazz clubs in the main Creole basics quite Tel (504) 588-2123 Closed Sun
New Orleans that serves dinner. well, but the real draw is the Cochon means “pig” in French;
The menu emphasizes seafood amazing decor and ambience – and Chef Donald Link was
and steaks, as well as a few think Marie Antoinette meets inspired to create this modern
choices in sandwiches. Top Moulin Rouge. take on Cajun cooking from
jazz acts perform nightly. the butcher shops of bayou
country. The menu here
Tujague’s $$ features mostly house-cured
Creole Map 5 D2 Warehouse and and smoked meats.
823 Decatur St, 70116 Central Business
Tel (504) 525-8676 Districts Domenica $$
Open just about every day Italian Map 4 B3
of the year, Tujague’s Acme Oyster House $ 123 Baronne St, 70112
(pronounced two-Jacks) has Seafood Map 4 C3 Tel (504) 648-6020
been an essential New Orleans 724 Iberville St, 70130 One of John Besh’s most
tradition since 1856. The menu Tel (504) 522-5973 acclaimed restaurants,
offers a table d’hôte dinner – a This popular national chain Domenica re-creates authentic
multi-course sampling of many restaurant celebrates regional Italian dishes. Entrées are offered
Creole favorites. cuisine and is always packed. in large or small plates. Serves
The menu has a variety of the best prosciutto in town.
Wasabi $$ Louisiana mainstays like
Japanese Map 3 E4 fried seafood platters, DK Choice
900 Frenchmen St, 70116 gumbo, and jambalaya.
Tel (504) 943-9433 Drago’s $$
This local favorite for authentic Capdeville $ Seafood Map 5 D4
Japanese cuisine features a Café Map 4 C4 2 Poydras St, 70130
big sushi bar serving deep 520 Capdeville St, 70130 Tel (504) 584-3911 Closed Sun
fried tempura and several Tel (504) 371-5915 Closed Sun Lovely eatery that has achieved
selections of sushi, such as Fashioned after the traditional the status of superstardom
the California roll, Albacore British pub, this dark and loud among seafood restaurants. A
Sashimi and sea urchin. Also downtown establishment offers step above the typical seafood
serves warm sake and chilled classic comfort food with a place, their signature dish of
Japanese beer. gourmet twist. Serves expected char broiled oysters has been
staples like burgers and fries, as copied, but never successfully
Marti's $$$ well as bistro style dishes. replicated; and their stuffed
French Map 4 C1 lobster is mouthwatering.
1041 Dumaine St, 70116 Mother’s $
Tel (504) 522-5478 Creole Map 4 C4
A re-opening of a pre-Katrina 401 Poydras St, 70130 Palace Café $$
local institution, serving upscale, Tel (504) 523-9656 Modern Creole Map 4 C3
classic French cuisine in a Nearly everyone who visits 605 Canal St, 70130
charming period-sensitive the city has been to Mother’s Tel (504) 523-1661
dining room. Offers an impressive to try “New Orleans” food. Another favorite by the Brennan
wine list. The self-service cafeteria family; serves modernized
Key to Price Guide see page 174
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 176 05/08/16 3:56 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  177

traditional Creole food in the Restaurant August $$$ Domilise’s $
French bras serie style. Located French Map 4 C3 Deli Map 6 C5
along the busy Canal Street, 301 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 5240 Annunciation St, 70115
with sidewalk tables fronting Tel (504) 299-9777 Tel (504) 899-9126 Closed Sun
the spacious dining room. Always memorable, this excellent The oldest po’boy shop in the
restaurant elevates cooking to a city, Domilise’s opened in 1930
Willa Jean $$ fine art. Using only the best, and is now run by the founder’s
Café Map 3 D4 locally sourced ingredients, each daughter-in-law. Has a loyal
611 O'Keefe Ave, 70113 dish is a hit. Order the 10-course following for their fresh po’boys
Tel (504) 509-7334 tasting menu to be safe. and the setting is reminiscent
This smart café is part-owned of a bygone era.
by John Besh and serves up Sac-a-lait $$$
Southern classics from its onsite Cajun Map 4 C5 Guy’s Po-Boys $
bakery as well as hot dishes 1051 Annunciation St, 70130 Deli Map 6 C4
such as braised brisket hash, fish Tel (504) 324-3658 Closed Sun & 5259 Magazine St, 70115
with grits, and crawfish etouffée Mon Tel (504) 891-5025 Closed Sun
with cornbread. Authentic Cajun dishes with a Utilitarian sandwich shop that
hearty, rustic feel are given the offers the best po’boys in terms
Bourbon House $$$ high-end treatment in a of quality, size, and consistency.
Seafood Map 4 C3 wonderfully inventive way in Their seafood po’boys and
144 Bourbon St, 70130 this restaurant in an old cotton the lunch plates are popular.
Tel (504) 522-0111 mill. Menus change daily and with
Busy seafood place, packed with the seasons. Ignatius $
locals and tourists alike, has one Café Map 7 F4
of the largest oyster ars in the 3121 Magazine St, 70115
city. Many dishes make creative Tel (504) 896-2225 Closed Tue & Wed
use of bourbon as an ingredient. Garden District Offers a simple menu of standard
Try the baked Oysters Rockefeller. and Uptown Louisiana Creole favorites. What
sets them above the rest is low
Café Adelaide $$$ Café Reconcile $ pricing, high quality, and a very
Modern Creole Map 4 C4 Café Map 8 A2 casual atmosphere. Also has
300 Poydras St, 70130 1631 Oretha Castle Haley alfresco seating.
Tel (504) 595-3305 Blvd, 70113
Located in the lobby of Loews Tel (504) 568-1157 Closed Sat & Sun Juan’s Flying Burrito $
Hotel, with a menu that offers an A non-profit lunch spot that Mexican Map 8 A3
inventive take on Creole cooking. sits in a dicey part of town. It 2018 Magazine St, 70130
Serves a great brunch. serves the community by hiring Tel (504) 569-0000
at-risk youths who hone their Where punk rock meets Tex-Mex,
Compere Lapin $$$ cooking skills by preparing making this place a lot of fun.
French/Caribbean Map 4 C5 standard Creole home-style Pierced and tattooed staff sling
535 Tchoupatoulas St, 70130 meals at very low prices. burritos in a funky setting,
Tel (504) 599-2119 serenaded by rock music.
Simple French and Caribbean Casamento’s $
dishes are given an appetising Seafood Map 7 E4 Jung’s Golden Dragon $
and inventive twist in this classy 4330 Magazine St, 70115 Chinese Map 7 F4
dining room. The owner, Nina Tel (504) 895-9761 Closed Sun & Mon; 3009 Magazine St, 70115
Compton, was the runner up on Tue & Wed: dinner Tel (504) 891-8280
the TV show Top Chef: New Orleans. This seafood spot has been Top-quality Chinese-American
around for a 100 years. They fare, including a few traditional
Emeril’s $$$ are famed for their oysters and Chinese dishes. The quiet
Modern Creole Map 4 C5 fresh, fried platters, however, dining room has a pleasant
800 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 they are closed all summer. Asian theme.
Tel (504) 528-9393
Chef Emeril Lagasse knows what
it takes to be the best. This flagship
restaurant of his culinary empire
reflects this by using only the
freshest local ingredients, making
everything from scratch, top
service, and constant innovation.
Herbsaint $$$
French Creole Map 4 B4
701 St. Charles Ave, 70130
Tel (504) 524-4114 Closed Sun
As Chef Donald Link rose to
star dom, so did this restaurant,
which has received national
accolades. Getting a table for
dinner here is near impossible
without prior reser vation. The
menu is best described as rural
French meets gourmet Creole. The funky interior of Juan’s Flying Burrito
For more information on types of restaurants see page 169
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 177 05/08/16 3:56 pm

178  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

McClures Barbecue $ menu featuring creative takes DK Choice
American Map 7 D4 on tacos and burritos. The
4800 Magazine St, 70115 grill, and walls adorned with Jaques-Imo’s $$
Tel (504) 301-2367 images of Pancho Villa create Cajun Map 6 B1
This small, no-frills diner satisfies a Mexican ambience. 8324 Oak St, 70118
customers with typical barbecue Tel (504) 861-0886 Closed Sun
fare and good quality side dishes. Apolline $$ Embodies the spirit of New
The sampler comes with Modern Creole Map 7 D4 Orleans like none other.
everything and is the way to go. 4729 Magazine St, 70115 The food is rich and heavy,
No alcoholic drinks. Tel (504) 894-8881 Closed Sun & Mon with dishes such as shrimp
Exquisite and inventive and alligator cheesecake, fried
Slice $ Louisiana specialties like fried grits, and deep-fried po’boys.
American Map 8 A2 boudin and sweet breads, as Folk art adorns the walls of
1513 St. Charles Ave, 70130 well as excellent cocktails. the restaurant and the open
Tel (504) 525-7437 The setting, a con verted Creole kitchen, and the lively bar is
A welcome sight in a town with cottage with heaps of rustic usually bustling with regulars.
limited national pizza chains. charm, makes it perfect for a Expect a long wait on any given
The dough is hand-tossed to romantic dinner. night. Reservations required
make thin-crust New York-style for groups of five or more.
pizzas, and there is also a variety Atchafalaya $$
of other Italian staples like pastas Modern Creole Map 7 F4
and bruschettas. 901 Louisiana Ave, 70115 Pascal’s Manale $$
Tel (504) 891-9626 Italian Creole Map 7 D3
Stein’s Deli $ Seems to get better with each 1838 Napoleon Ave, 70115
Deli Map 8 A3 change of ownership! Tel (504) 895-4877 Closed Sun
2207 Magazine St, 70130 Atchafalaya serves southern Frequented by local families for
Tel (504) 527-0771 Closed Mon favorites like shrimp and grits generations, this is the oldest
By far the best deli in town, this with an unexpected Italian restaurant in the city. Their
New York/Philly-style Jewish eatery sophistication, and has live music chefs helped shape the evolution
is known for its top-quality meats, during the weekend brunches. of Creole cuisine, creating famous
cheeses, specialty sandwiches, dishes such as BBQ shrimp.
soups, and a great selection of Charlie’s Steak House $$
imported beers. American Map 7 D3 Patois $$
4510 Dryades St, 70115 French Creole Map 6 B5
Surrey’s $ Tel (504) 895-9705 Closed Sun & Mon 6078 Laurel St, 70118
Café Map 8 B3 A haven for lovers of beef and Tel (504) 895-9441 Closed Mon & Tue;
1418 Magazine St, 70130 potatoes, Charlie’s has been Fri: dinner
Tel (504) 524-3828 serving delicious steaks for the Blending classic local dishes with
Originating as a juice bar with past 80 years. Try their T-bone French bistro influences, this
basic breakfast items, Surrey’s steak ‘The Charlie’ and potatoes is one of the best restaurants in
has now expanded its menu au gratin. Has a full wine and town. It can get very busy, so
to include lunch. Popular beer bar. call ahead and reserve a table.
items include bagels, banana
pancakes and a tofu breakfast Dick & Jenny’s $$ Sake Café $$
platter. Expect a long wait Modern Creole Map 7 E5 Japanese Map 8 A4
during weekends. 4501 Tchoupitoulas St, 70115 2830 Magazine St, 70115
Tel (504) 894-9880 Closed Sun Tel (504) 894-0033
Taqueria Corona $ The favorite restaurant for many A refined Japanese restaurant
Mexican Map 6 B4 locals with an extensive dinner, offering authentic features such
5932 Magazine St, 70115 lunch, and brunch menu that as steamed hot towels and bento
Tel (504) 897-3974 changes seasonally. Their large boxes. Known for their sushi,
The first true taqueria in town, bar mixes original drinks. sashimi, and the premium
this local favorite has a diverse Welcoming atmosphere. sake. The dining area has a
contemporary decor.
Shaya $$
Israeli Map 4 C5
4213 Magazine St, 70115
Tel (504) 891-4213
Run by John Besh protégé Alon
Shaya, diners here can expect
elevated versions of classic Israeli
fare, including divine hummus,
labneh, and flatbreads made in a
wood-burning oven.
Clancy’s $$$
Modern Creole Map 6 B5
6100 Annunciation St, 70118
Tel (504) 895-1111 Closed Sun
This is where the Uptown
sophisticates like to socialize.
A dish served at Pascal's Manale The menu is less progressive
Key to Price Guide see page 174

174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 178 05/08/16 3:56 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  179

than its Creole peers but the
real draw is the prolific wine
selection and personable staff.
Commander’s Palace $$$
Modern Creole Map 7 F3
1403 Washington Ave, 70130
Tel (504) 899-8221
Many of the best chefs started
their journey to the top from
this famous place housed in
a Victorian mansion, which
provides top service in elegant
dining rooms. Ask for the Chef’s
table in the kitchen if available.
Coquette $$$
French Creole Map 8 A4 Entrance to Coquette
2800 Magazine St, 70115
Tel (504) 265-0421 the nouvelle Creole menu Parkway Bakery and Tavern $
Formal dining, with a limited offers great specials. The “Taste of Deli Map 2 B3
but excellent daily changing Orleans” dinner is a good way to 538 Hagan Ave, 70119
menu, which emphasizes try several local specialties. Tel (504) 482-3047 Closed Tue
fresh, local ingredients. No longer a bakery, this po’boy
French bistro-style decor. shop has perfected the art so well,
they have received attention from
Emeril’s Delmonico $$$ Mid-City national media. Over-stuffed
Modern Creole Map 8 A2 seafood and inventive new twists
1300 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Angelo Brocato $ cover all the po’boy basics. The
Tel (504) 525-4937 Café Map 2 A3 large patio offers plenty of space.
Chef Emeril Lagasse adds his 214 N Carrollton Ave, 70119
own unique excitement to Tel (504) 486-1465 Closed Mon Theo’s Pizza $
traditional Creole food in his This Italian confectionery is American Map 2 A3
signature dishes. It can get a part of the local cultural 4024 Canal St, 70119
very busy, especially during landscape, producing everything Tel (504) 302-1133
holidays, so reserve a table in-house since 1905. Serves One of the few local pizza chains
well in advance. authentic Italian ices, cannolis, in town, it bakes thick-crust pies
spumoni, espresso, and, of with a huge variety of fresh and
Gautreau’s $$$ course, ice cream. chunky toppings. A big hit with
American Map 7 D3 kids, they also serve sandwiches,
1728 Soniat St, 70115 Bevi Seafood Co. $ salads and more.
Tel (504) 899-7397 Closed Sun Seafood Map 1 A1
Small and classy place that is 236 Carrollton Ave, 70119 Willie Mae’s Scotch House $
tricky to find on the first visit. Tel (504) 488-7503 Closed Mon American Map 2 C3
The menu at this very successful Try the daily speciality po’boys 2401 St. Ann St, 70119
gourmet restaurant is inventive, or the fresh seasonal dishes at Tel (504) 822-9503 Closed Sat & Sun
with a mix of French and this neighborhood seafood Only serving lunch, this small
American cuisine, but without market and restaurant. eatery has garnered national
any Creole influences. attention for their fried chicken.
Doson’s Noodle House $ The menu is very small, serving
Mr. John’s Steakhouse $$$ Vietnamese Map 2 A3 only chicken, chops, and beans
American Map 8 A3 135 N Carrollton Ave, 70119 done in several different ways.
2111 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tel (504) 309-7283 Closed Sun
Tel (504) 679-7697 Closed Sun Not a typical Vietnamese 1000 Figs $$
& Mon restaurant at all. Chinese Mediterranean Map 2 B2
Considered the best steak influences and new ideas 3141 Ponce de Leon St, 70119
house in town, this upmarket have updated the traditional Tel (504) 301-0848 Closed Sun &
establishment serves a variety fare to something refreshingly Mon
of Creole and Italian favorites different. Portions are large, A cozy and casual café serving
as well as cuts of meat. Excellent prices are low, and custom- high-quality Greek and
views of the streetcar. ization is encouraged. Mediterranean food in small-
and large-plate portions.
Upperline $$$ Liuzza’s $
Modern Creole Map 7 D4 Café Map 2 A3 Café Degas $$
1413 Upperline St, 70115 3636 Bienville St, 70119 French Map 2 B2
Tel (504) 891-9822 Closed Mon Tel (504) 482-9120 Closed Sun 3127 Esplanade Ave, 70119
& Tue & Mon Tel (504) 945-5635 Closed Mon & Tue
Intimate and memorable, the A carry-over from the old days, One of the few French restaurants
Upperline ensures satisfaction – when mom-and-pop cafés in town serving authentic French
JoAnn, the ever-present owner, dominated the streetscape. food without the influences of
will personally see to it. The Very popular with locals, it offers New Orleans cooking. The menu
dining room is decorated traditional favorites as well as features classic dishes of quiche,
with her art collection and beer in frozen mugs. escargot, pâtés, and more.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 169
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 179 05/08/16 3:56 pm

180  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Toups’ Meatery $$ mac ‘n’ cheese with gravy and the
Cajun Map 2 A2 spicy gumbo is recommended.
845 N Carrollton Ave, 70119
Tel (504) 252-4999 Closed Sun & Mon Spahr’s $
Carnivores will delight at this new Seafood
dining concept where house-cured 3682 US 90, Des Allemands, 70030
and smoked meats are served on Tel (985) 758-1602
boards for sharing. Honoring the On the edge of the Gulf and
tradition of the Cajun boucherie, bordering Cajun country, two
nearly every part of livestock worlds come together at this
is used in some way. famous, fried seafood house.
Their specialty is fried catfish,
Venezia $$ and crab served just about every
Italian Map 2 A3 way. Sit by the window for
134 N Carrollton Ave, 70119 beautiful views.
Tel (504) 488-7991 Closed Mon & Tue
Long-standing favorite that Café des Amis $$
serves basic Italian-American Cajun
A typical Creole dish served at dishes in large portions for 140 E Bridge St, Breaux Bridge, 70517
Dooky Chase low prices in an informal Tel (337) 332-5273 Closed Mon
setting. The long rows of Food, fun, and music, all under
Crescent City Steak House $$ tables are perfect for large one roof. Serves simple yet
American Map 2 C3 families with kids. authentic local cuisine but the
1001 N Broad St, 70119 real draw is the live Zydeco
Tel (504) 821-3271 Closed Mon Ralph’s on the Park $$$ band and Cajun dancing.
Rumored to be a former mafia Modern Creole Map 2 A2
hangout, this is one of the first 900 City Park Ave, 70119 Impastato’s $$
true steak houses in the city. Tel (504) 488-1000 Italian Creole
Serves the best dry-aged USDA Considered one of the best 3400 16th St, Metairie, 70002
prime beef. restaurants of the Brennan Tel (504) 455-1545 Closed Sun & Mon
family, Ralph’s is located along Serving Italian-Creole cuisine
DK Choice the most scenic stretch of in the Sicilian tradition,
Impastato’s ranks at the top of
City Park. The remarkable
Dooky Chase $$ chef executes Creole cooking their category while remaining
Creole Map 2 C3 very creatively. fairly authentic. Fettuccine is
2301 Orleans Ave, 70119 made in-house, portions are
Tel (504) 821-0600 Closed Sat, Rue 127 $$$ very large and dinners come
Sun & Mon American Map 2 A3 in five courses.
Family owned and operated 127 N Carrollton Ave, 70119
since 1941; offers amazing Tel (504) 483-1571 Closed Sun Middendorf’s $$
Louisiana Creole cuisine. A trendy restaurant serving Seafood
This famous spot, popular American-style dishes made with 30160 Hwy 51 S, Akers, 70421
with the African-American the freshest seafood and meats. Tel (985) 386-6666 Closed Mon
community, has also hosted The hip vibe comp lements the & Tue
many celebrities as well as small seating area, young staff, New Orleanians have made
US Presidents. Don’t miss the and original cocktails. the short trip to this old
amazing stuffed shrimp. roadside seafood house in
the wetlands for years to
feast on fried catfish, boiled
Five Happiness $$ Beyond New Orleans crabs, and all the best local
Chinese Map 1 B4 seafood available.
3605 S Carrollton Ave, 70118 Abita Brew Pub $
Tel (504) 482-3935 American
Easily the best Chinese 72011 Holly St, Abita Springs, 70420
restaurant around, and one that Tel (985) 892-5837 Closed Mon
has cornered the market by This restaurant/bar is operated
keeping prices low, and quality by Abita, Louisiana’s most
high. Great variety of Mandarin, popular beer producer. Housed
Cantonese, and Chinese- in an old brewery, they serve
American-style food. primarily bar food, and some
specialty brews sold only here.
Mandina’s $$
Italian Creole Map 2 A3 Rocky & Carlo’s $
3800 Canal St, 70119 Italian
Tel (504) 482-9179 613 W. St. Bernard Hwy,
Once a grocery store, Mandina’s Chalmette, 70043
became a restaurant in 1932, Tel (504) 279-8323 Closed Sun
catering to the large Italian & Mon
immigrant community in An essential part of the
the city . It now offers most St. Bernard community, this
New Orleans staples such family restaurant has survived
as trout almondine, seafood two devastating hurricanes Outside dining at 1000 Figs, a
platters, and po’boys. and a major fire. Their delicious Mediterranean café
Key to Price Guide see page 174
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 180 05/08/16 3:56 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  181

Mosca’s $$ DK Choice New Orleans. The cooking is
Italian Creole extraordinary and diners can
4137 U.S. 90, Avondale, 70094 Randol’s $$ choose between the sushi bar,
Tel (504) 436-8950 Closed Sun & Mon Cajun hibachi tables, or even table-side
Small and unassuming Italian 2320 Kaliste Saloom Rd, prepared dinners. Their imported,
place just across the river, Lafayette 70508 high-end sake is a must try.
where politicians and the elite Tel (337) 981-7080
gather to converse. Serves Of all the Cajun dancehalls, Latil’s Landing $$$
legendary seafood and Randol’s may be the most Creole
traditional Italian favorites. entertaining. The scene is loud 40136 Hwy 942, Darrow, 70725
and lively with a southern Tel (225) 473-9380 Closed Mon
New Orleans Food & Spirits $$ American atmosphere, but the This gourmet Creole restaurant
Seafood food is what really sets them is housed in the 18th-century
208 Lee Lane, Covington, 70433 apart. This restaurant raises its mansion at Houmas House
Tel (985) 875-0432 Closed Sun own crabs and crawfish and Plantation. Seven- and nine-
This café-style eatery pays homage also sells them by the bulk. course tasting menus are on
to the cuisine and culture of New Perfect place for a family offer. Most of the produce
Orleans, serving classics such as dining experience that the used is grown on site. Ask to
seafood gumbo and shrimp kids will love. see the wine cellars.
remoulade salad. Emphasis is on
the food, not presentation. The Nuvolari’s $$$
rabbit special, served on Restaurant des Familles $$ Italian Creole
Thursdays, is delicious. Seafood 246 Girod St, Mandeville, 70448
7163 Barataria Blvd, Lafitte, 70072 Tel (985) 626-5619
Parrain’s $$ Tel (504) 689-7834 Becomes less Italian and more
Seafood Located along the bayou for Creole with each passing year as
3225 Perkins Rd, Baton Rouge, 70808 which it has been named, the chef continues to innovate.
Tel (225) 381-9922 this is one of the more upscale The typically seafood-heavy menu
Located in an intentionally rustic- seafood places outside the has some Italian dishes but the
looking old gas station, Parrain’s city. The large windows gazing daily specials are recommended.
is the top seafood place in the across the tranquil bayou define
capital city. They have a very the serene atmosphere. La Provence $$$
wide variety of menu options, French
all with a touch of Cajun spice. Satterfield’s $$ 25020 US 190, Lacombe, 70445
The daily specials prove popular. Seafood Tel (985) 626-7662 Closed Mon & Tue
108 E. Main St, New Roads, 70760 John Besh brings his signature
Pat’s Fisherman’s Wharf $$ Tel (225) 638-5027 French country-style cuisine to
Cajun Satterfield’s serves a combination this fine-dining establishment;
1008 Henderson Levee Rd, of American and Creole dishes, a little out of place in the rural
Henderson, 70517 but with a creative twist. The setting. The advantage, however,
Tel (337) 228-7512 menu changes daily, incorpo- is plenty of space for the small
Perched on the edge of the rating French, Italian, Spanish, farm that supplies his kitchens.
Atchafalaya basin, this popular and Mediterranean influences. Eclectic wine selection.
restaurant serves crawfish every Enjoy the wide views of False
which way. It is also one of the River through the windows or sit Ristorante Del Porto $$$
few spots where Cajun Creole can on the deck during fair weather. Italian
still be heard spoken among the 501 E Boston St, Covington, 70433,
staff and local guests. Shogun $$ Tel (985) 875-1006 Closed Sun & Mon
Japanese A great place to dine on super-
Poche’s $$ 2325 Veterans Blvd, Metairie, 70001 lative Italian dishes prepared in
Cajun Tel (504) 833-7477 the Tuscan style. Using generous
3015 Main Hwy, Breaux Bridge, 70517 Started as the first sushi bar in amounts of olive oil and only the
Tel (337) 332-2108 the region, Shogun’s is now the freshest vegetables, the food is
More than just a restaurant largest Japanese restaurant in rich without being very heavy.
serving home-style Cajun food,
Poche’s is also a meat market
with an adjacent smoking and
processing facility. This ensures
everything is fresh.
Prejean’s $$
Cajun
3480 NE Evangeline Thruway,
Lafayette, 70507
Tel (337) 896-3247
For a truly authentic Cajun
experience, head to this eatery,
which re-creates a rural swampy
scene in their dining room.
Their award-winning traditional
cuisine is spot-on and the
swinging dancehall guarantees
a good time. Restaurant des Familles
For more information on types of restaurants see page 169
174-181_EW_New_Orl.indd 181 05/08/16 3:56 pm

182  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN NEW ORLEANS

As the gateway to the Mississippi, New imaginative masks, handmade crafts, rare
Orleans has long been a place for buying books, and the best jazz records. Shopping in
and selling goods, and it still maintains a New Orleans is an initiation into local culture.
talent for filling its stores with irresistible Each of the city’s many shopping areas has
treasures. Antiques are among the city’s a unique character, with the French Quarter,
finest buys, and it is possible to find anything Magazine Street, Carrollton, and Julia Street
from 18th-century French furniture to 1950s all offering vibrant, rich experiences. These
vintage dresses. Other specialties include pages high light the best stops in the city.
Malls and
Shopping Centers
New Orleans currently has only
two traditional in-town malls.
Canal Place (see p96), on the
edge of the French Quarter,
has upscale shops such as Ann
Taylor, Williams-Sonoma, Saks
Fifth Avenue, and Coach. The
unique Outlet Collection at
Riverwalk, which stretches
alongside the Mississippi River
from Canal Street up to the
Convention Center, has dozens
of small shops and a liberal
share of chains such as Chico’s,
The exterior of the upscale Canal Place shopping mall Nine West, and others. Outside
there is a concrete deck above
When to Shop
the Louisiana Tax Free the river, which has lovely views,
Stores in the Central Business Shopping Refund Center and useful information plaques
District, along Magazine and show your passport, sales pointing out places of interest.
Street, and in the French receipts, refund vouchers, and Jax Brewery, in the French
Quarter tend to operate from air ticket (which may be up to Quarter, is a former beer factory
9am to 5pm or 10am to 6pm. a maximum of a 90-day trip). that has been trans formed
Many open on Sundays, but If you do not manage to get into a sprawling, three-story
always call in advance to reimbursed at the airport, retail space.
avoid disappointment. Some send copies of everything, Visitors who want a more
shops in the Quarter don’t along with an explanation, traditional mall experience
open until noon, but they to the Refund Center. can venture into the suburbs.
close late, too. Lakeside Shopping Center
in Metairie is the biggest mall
Shipping in the metropolitan area. It has
How to Pay
If you would prefer to send three anchor stores, Dillard’s,
Major credit cards are accepted your purchases home
everywhere, and there are rather than take them
plenty of Automated Teller with you, ask the store
Machines (ATMs) from which to to handle the task for
get cash for a small fee. Traveler’s you – New Orleans
checks are almost universally merchants are accus-
accepted. Some shops will also tomed to shipping
take personal checks with goods anywhere. For
sufficient identification. large buys such as
furniture and art objects,
professional packing
Sales Tax Reimbursement
and/or shipping is a
If you are a foreign visitor, you necessity. A good source
can get back the 10 per cent is The Wooden Box on
sales tax on tangible goods, but South Peters Street. For
you must show the vendor your smaller items, a reliable
passport and ask for a refund company is the Royal
voucher. At the airport, go to Mail Service. A band outside Outlet Collection at Riverwalk



182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 182 05/08/16 3:56 pm

SHOPPING IN NE W ORLEANS  183


J. C. Penney, and Macy’s, and Also in the Quarter is the
more than 100 other shops, Stone & Press Gallery, with
including 15 shoe stores. dazzlingly detailed works on
paper, etchings, lithographs,
wood carvings, and
Art and Antiques
mezzotints. The artist James
Since its earliest days, New Michalopoulos, who owns
Orleans has been a treasure the eponymous gallery
trove of artistic and vintage Michalopoulos, has become
luxuries. The locals’ knack popular for his idiosyncratic
for dealing in rare and Linke cabinet crafted with kingwood and depictions of New Orleans
remarkable objects continues doré bronze, at M. S. Rau architecture. The exaggerated
to this very day. Another big silhouettes are true-to-life
advantage of shopping for manner of things from the representations of the city.
antiques in New Orleans is region, the store is best known When you are in the French
relative affordability. While for unbelievably affordable Quarter, don’t forget to check
prices may still be steep for rare prices on bedroom suites, out the artists who hang their
and highly sought-after pieces, armoires, and chandeliers. works on the fence around
they are usually lower than in Sometimes the prices seem Jackson Square. While some
other US cities. Even when so cheap you think there of the pieces on display are
shipping costs are taken into must be a mistake. amateur at best, there are
consideration, buyers do very The antiques shops on also some very talented artists
well for themselves. Vintage art Magazine Street tend to be who choose this one-on-one
can be found in abundance heavier on 20th-century wares interaction with the public
here, though it leans toward than those in the French rather than taking the more
the pretty and comfortable; Quarter. You can spend an formal gallery route.
visit Julia Street for more entire day browsing the many Julia Street, in the Warehouse
cutting-edge works. shops along here. Simon District, is New Orleans’
There are antiques shops all of New Orleans has a genuine gallery neighborhood.
over the city, but the biggest changing stock of offbeat Most of the galleries here
concentrations can be found tables, chairs, and metalwork. concentrate on local and
on Royal Street in the French However, the shop is best regional artists, which means
Quarter and along Magazine known for proprietor and that you’ll have a chance to
Street in Uptown. The former chef-turned-artist Simon see exceptional work by
is a fabulous showcase of Hardeveld’s charming faux painters, sculptors, and
high-end antiques, while folk-art signs. photographers not well known
the latter leans more toward New Orleans also offers a outside of Louisiana.
fun and funky goods. Many of wide selection of art galleries, LeMieux Galleries shows
the shops in the Quarter are the most famous of which is both emerging and
family-run enterprises, often probably the Rodrigue Studio, established artists from
several generations in. This in the French Quarter. It is Louisiana and the Gulf Coast,
history has contributed to their home to late Cajun artist often with strong New Orleans
developing a comfortable, easy George Rodrigue and his themes in their work.
atmosphere for all customers, distinctive Blue Dog paintings. Quite a few non-Louisiana
especially novices. Make sure you look at his other artists are represented by
Established in 1912, M. S. Rau works too, such as the scenes Arthur Roger, including big
is internationally known for its from Cajun community life. names such as Dale Chihuly,
range of American, English,
and French antique furniture.
Keil’s Antiques is a family-run
business dating from 1899. It
stocks superb antique jewelry,
as well as chandeliers, furniture,
and mirrors. On Chartres Street,
Lucullus focuses on kitchen
antiques, ranging from china
and linens to 200-year-old
French farm tables, while on
Decatur Street, Greg’s Antiques
is a must for treasure hunters.
Their motto is “This ain’t your
Grandma’s antique shop,” and
the tattoo-covered employees
confirm this. Jammed with all One of the late George Rodrigue’s famous Blue Dog paintings at his studio




182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 183 05/08/16 3:56 pm

184  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


and mixes used in local
dishes are readily available
in jars and bottles. You’ll
see them all over the French
Quarter in souvenir shops,
but these are often wildly
overpriced, so try a regular
grocery store instead for
beignet mix, coffee with
chicory, crab boil, and other
products – the quality is the
same, but the prices are far
lower. Try Rouse’s Market,
which is almost a full-service
grocery store in the French
An array of Louisiana hot sauces to recreate the magic of Creole cuisine Quarter, or the historic Central
Grocery (see p78), another
with his art glass, and filmmaker has become the standard Quarter outlet that, besides
John Waters, with his quirky for contemporary jewelry, its famous muffuletta (see p170),
photographs. The Steve Martin producing handcrafted pieces also stocks sauces, mustards,
Studio is an all-white space in gold and silver. There are and all kinds of Italian delicacies.
above a 19th-century storefront. three Faget shops in the Pralines are a must-try for
The starkness shows off owner metropolitan area. Katy Beh many visitors. The greatest
Steve Martin’s wire sculptures Contemporary Jewelry is a fun is to sample the different
to great advantage, and stylish store that represents outlets before hitting upon a
acts as an ideal backdrop for more than 30 modern favorite. The tastiest bets are
the large canvases that his jewelry-makers. The line of Laura’s Candies and Aunt
emerging artists seem to favor. “commitment rings” is a Sally’s Praline Shop.
For avant-garde work that romantic’s dream come true. If you want to take home
explores exciting installation Many of the antiques shops crawfish, crab, or andouille
and conceptual art, the also carry an extensive stock sausage, head for the Big
Jonathan Ferrara Gallery is of vintage earrings, bracelets, Fisherman on Magazine
the place to go. necklaces, and decorative pieces. Street, where the locals go
The Stella Jones Gallery in New Orleans Silversmiths is a for their fare. An advantage
the CBD is the city’s premier big favorite with many collectors. is that the staff are experts
African and African-American at packing these meaty
showplace. Modern masters perishables for travel.
such as Elizabeth Catlett are Food
on the gallery’s list of artists. If you fall in love with Cajun
The New Orleans School of and Creole cuisine during Crafts
Glassworks has an exhibition your stay in New Orleans, it is For a wide selection of items
space for the art glass created possible to take those unique made out of ceramics, wood,
by its members. If possible, time flavors home with you. The paper, metal, and glass, try
your visit to observe one of distinctive spices, sauces, the third floor of Canal Place,
the daily demos of the highly where Rhino Contemporary
skilled artists blowing glass. Craft Co. features crafts from
One of the most popular a range of regional artists.
weekend art markets is the The Idea Factory is filled
Frenchmen Art Market, which with handmade woodcrafted
is held in a formerly disused toys, games, vases, sculptures,
lot amid the jazz clubs. Local boxes, and all sorts of other
artists sell their assorted wares collectibles. The Idea Factory
Thursday through Sunday manages to be both primitive
nights from 7pm onwards and sophisticated.
(6pm on Sundays). The fun French Quarter
Flea Market (see p72) is host
to a number of vendors selling
Jewelry
all sorts of strange and alluring
The oldest jewelry store in crafts. These include wood
New Orleans is Adler’s, which carvings that, in spite of their
dates back to 1898. This is questionable African origins,
the best place for traditional make delightful gifts. Quirky
rings, necklaces, and other A gifts and souvenirs stand at the popular handmade toys and jewelry
precious items. Mignon Faget French Quarter Flea Market are also available here.




182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 184 05/08/16 3:56 pm

SHOPPING IN NE W ORLEANS  185

Gifts and Specialty Stores
Located in a handsome
old-fashioned store, Hové
Parfumeur has been sweetly
scenting New Orleanians since
1931. At Santa’s Quarters, it
is Christmas all year round.
You will find lovely holiday
ornaments and decorative
objects at this store, which
is a real boon for those who
prefer to finish their Christmas
shopping before winter.
If you wish to buy one of
the gas lamps that flicker in
the Quarter for your own front Colorful fashion feathers at Funky Monkey
door, stop by Bevolo Gas
and Electric Lights, while and gifts made with recycled Street, is the top designer-
Scriptura is the place to go materials or eco-friendly fashion shop for women,
for beautiful paper products, fabrics, while Aidan Gill is an carrying Michael Kors and Vera
from journals and sketch old-fashioned gentlemen’s Wang among others.
books to hand made paper parlor with a fine range of It also has a popular cosmetics
and calligraphy sets. wristwatches, lapel pins, and counter. While Mimi’s sleek and
New Orleans has strong links grooming items. stylish look represents reigning
with the Caribbean, and there fashion trends, New Orleans
are several cigar-making stores Fashion continues its love affair with
in the city. At the Cigar Factory, overstated apparel that is
visitors can watch the cigars For mainstream apparel for characterized by ruffles,
being rolled and cut, then men, women, and children, you flounces, and other such
proceed to select their stogie can rely on department stores flourishes. Despite the similarity
of choice from the humidor. such as Dillard’s, Macy’s, and in name and style, Fleur de
Mardi Gras souvenirs such J. C. Penney, in the shopping Paris and Yvonne LaFleur are
as masks and other regalia are malls. However, it is the depth unrelated shops. The former is
available at several stores. The and variety of formal clothing a lush temple to femininity in
best place to find a flattering art that makes New Orleans the French Quarter. Hats are the
mask is at the fair before Mardi different from most other store’s signature items, and they
Gras, but if you’re not in town cities in the US. Everyone feature frothy decorations of
at that time of year, then stop here attends Mardi Gras balls, feathers, fruits, flowers, and
by Maskarade. They also sell from street cleaners to bank ribbons. Back in the Riverbend
quaint voodoo dolls that have presidents, so numerous shops area of Uptown, Yvonne LaFleur
purportedly been inspired by also carry frilly ball gowns, offers lavish evening gowns
the Louisiana swampland. There dancing slippers, evening and romantic hats that Scarlett
are quite a few tarot readers purses, and other accessories. O’Hara would have loved. The
in Jackson Square, but for a New Orleans is the perfect shop even has its own tiara
private session in rather unusual place to pick out a tuxedo, department. Designer Harold
surroundings, opt for the since there’s a wide selection Clarke’s French Quarter outlet,
Bottom of the Cup Tea Room. and the sales people know all Harold Clarke Couturier, is
Located within the same about fittings. Perlis is almost much loved by debutantes
eclectic block of Magazine a New Orleans tradition in and Mardi Gras royalty. His
Street, Branch Out, Green formal clothing for men. The dreamy ball gowns are always
Serene, and Aidan Gill for Men shop’s signature fashion is a on display thanks to the full-
all offer specialty items. Branch polo shirt with a crawfish logo length windows in his shop.
Out and Green Serene both (note that Perlis does also have Magazine Street is home to
feature clothing, accessories, departments dedicated to a number of happening shops
women’s clothing). Another that specialize in funky outfits
old-line store that caters to for club nights and bohemian
men is Rubenstein’s. The days. Trashy Diva and Funky
store has been in its Monkey both stock wild and
current location since outrageous clothes that you
1924, and was among the might see on teenage pop
first to stock the ties made stars. Meyer the Hatter is one of
by a young up-and-coming the city’s most beloved shops.
A flamboyant Mardi Gras mask from designer by the name of Ralph The family-owned store has
Maskarade, sold all year round Lauren. Mimi, on Magazine been supplying New




182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 185 05/08/16 3:56 pm

186  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


Orleanians of both sexes with showcasing Southern litera ture merchandise includes CDs,
hats for more than 100 years. and is a favorite of locals as well new and used vinyl, DVDs,
Every conceivable type of hat as visiting writers. In the French books, posters, and t-shirts.
can be found here, including Quarter, Faulkner House Books Be sure to check for free
Stetsons, derbies, fedoras, is a charming little shop with a in-store performances by artists
and berets, all of which are surprising number of books in promoting their new albums.
not only elegant and well stock. It also has many rare first The staff members are very
crafted, but reasonably priced. editions, especially by William helpful too.
Faulkner, who once lived in Most street performers will
the building. For used books, have cheap CDs of their music
Books the French Quarter has Librairie for sale, so just ask any that
Independent bookstores are Book Shop, a treasure trove of take your fancy.
still going strong in New both intellectual and offbeat
Orleans. At Octavia Books, volumes. Beckham’s Bookshop
located in the Uptown area, includes comfy reading chairs
volumes are carefully chosen and friendly cats.
and sold by the book-loving
staff. The Garden District Music
Bookshop has an admirable
selection of non-fiction and Music is the lifeblood of New
regional titles, and it also has Orleans. The greatest place
strong ties to writer Anne Rice, to explore local music, from
who has done several signings jazz to zydeco, is the famous
here. Maple Street Bookshop, Louisiana Music Factory,
near the Tulane University which stocks a well-cataloged A record by Oscar “Papa” Celestin, founder
campus, is devoted to range of artists. Their of the Tuxedo Brass Band
DIRECTORY
Sales Tax Lakeside Jonathan New Orleans School
Reimbursement Shopping Center Ferrara Gallery of Glassworks
3301 Veterans Blvd. 400 Julia St. Map 4 C5. 727 Magazine St.
Louisiana Tax Tel 522-5471. Map 4 C4.
Free Shopping Tel 835-8000. ∑ jonathanferrara Tel 529-7279.
Refund Center ∑ lakesideshopping. ∑ neworleansglass
com gallery.com
P. O. Box 20125. works.org
Tel 467-0723. Outlet Collection Keil’s Antiques Rodrigue Studio
∑ louisianataxfree.com at Riverwalk 325 Royal St. Map 4 C2. 721 Royal St. Map 5 D2.
Tel 522-4552.
Shipping 1 Poydras St. Map 8 C1. ∑ keilsantiques.com Tel 581-4244.
Tel 522-1555. ∑ georgerodrigue.com
Royal Mail Service ∑ riverwalkmarket LeMieux Galleries Simon of
828 Royal St. Map 5 D2. place.com 332 Julia St. Map 4 C5. New Orleans
Tel 522-8523. Tel 522-5988. 1028 Jackson Ave.
Art and Antiques ∑ lemieuxgalleries. Map 8 A3.
The Wooden Box com Tel 524-8201.
816 S Peters St. Map 4 C5. Arthur Roger
Tel 568-0281. 432 Julia St. Map 4 C5. Lucullus Stella Jones Gallery
610 Chartres St. 201 St. Charles Ave.
Tel 522-1999. ∑ arthur
Malls and Map 4 C2. Tel 528-9620. Map 4 C3.
Shopping Centers rogergallery.com ∑ lucullusantiques.com Tel 568-9050.
One of two locations. ∑ stellajones.com
Canal Place Frenchmen One of two locations. Steve Martin Studio
333 Canal St. Map 8 C1. M. S. Rau 624 Julia St. Map 4 B4.
Tel 522-9200. Art Market 630 Royal St. Map 5 D2. Tel 566-1390.
∑ theshopsatcanal 619 Frenchmen St. Tel 523-5660. ∑ stevemartinstudio.
place.com Tel 941-1149. ∑ french ∑ rauantiques.com com
menartmarket.com
Jax Brewery Michalopoulos Stone & Press Gallery
600 Decatur St. Greg’s Antiques 617 Bienville St. 238 Chartres St.
Map 3 E5. 1209 Decatur St. Map 4 C3. Map 4 C3.
Tel 566-7245. Map 5 D1. Tel 202-8577 Tel 558-0505. Tel 561-8555.
∑ jacksonbrewery.com or 881-6125. ∑ michalopoulos.com ∑ stoneandpress.com





182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 186 05/08/16 3:56 pm

SHOPPING IN NE W ORLEANS  187


DIRECTORY
Jewelry Idea Factory Santa’s Quarters Trashy Diva
838 Chartres St. 1025 Decatur St. 829 Chartres St.
Adler’s Map 5 D1. Map 5 D2.
722 Canal St. Map 4 B3. Tel 524-5195. Map 5 D2.
Tel 523-5292. ∑ ideafactory Tel 581-5820. Tel 581-4555.
∑ adlersjewelry.com neworleans.com ∑ santasquartersno. ∑ trashydiva.com
One of two locations.
Katy Beh Rhino Contemporary com
Contemporary Craft Co. Scriptura Yvonne LaFleur
Jewelry Canal Place, 3rd floor. 8131 Hampson St.
3701 Magazine St. Map 4 C3. 5423 Magazine St. Map 6 A1.
Map 7 F4. Tel 523-7945. Map 6 C4. Tel 866-9666.
Tel 896-9600. ∑ rhinocrafts.com Tel 897-1555. ∑ yvonnelafleur.com
∑ katybeh.com ∑ scriptura.com
Mignon Faget Gifts and Books
3801 Magazine St. Specialty Stores Fashion Beckham’s Bookshop
Map 7 F4. Aidan Gill for Men 228 Decatur St.
Tel 891-2005. 2026 Magazine St. Fleur de Paris
∑ mignonfaget.com Map 8 A3. 523 Royal St. Map 4 C3.
Tel 522-9875.
New Orleans Tel 587-9090. Map 4 C2.
Silversmiths ∑ aidangillformen. Tel 525-1899. Faulkner House
600 Chartres St. com ∑ fleurdeparis.net Books
Map 4 C2. Bevolo Gas and 624 Pirate’s Alley.
Tel 522-8333. Electric Lights Funky Monkey Map 5 D2.
∑ neworleanssilver 521 Conti St. Map 4 C2. 3127 Magazine St. Tel 524-2940.
smiths.com Tel 522-9485. Map 7 F4. ∑ faulknerhouse
Food ∑ bevolo.com Tel 899-5587. books.net
Bottom of the Cup Garden District
Aunt Sally’s Tea Room Harold Clarke Bookshop
Praline Shop 327 Chartres St. Couturier 2727 Prytania St.
810 Decatur St. Map 4 C3. 901 Iberville St. Map 7 F4.
Map 5 D2. Tel 524-1997. Map 4 C2. Tel 895-2266.
Tel 524-3373. ∑ bottomofthecup. Tel 568-0440.
∑ auntsallys.com com ∑ haroldclarke.com ∑ gardendistrict
bookshop.com
Big Fisherman Branch Out
3301 Magazine St. 2022 Magazine St. Meyer the Hatter Librairie Book Shop
Map 7 F4. Map 8 A3. Tel 371-5913. 120 St. Charles Ave. 823 Chartres St.
Tel 897-9907. ∑ branchoutshop.com Map 4 C3. Map 5 D2.
∑ bigfisherman Tel 525-1048. Tel 525-4837.
seafood.com Cigar Factory
415 Decatur St. ∑ meyerthehatter.com Maple Street
Central Grocery Map 5 D3. Bookshop
923 Decatur St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-1003. Mimi 7523 Maple St.
Tel 523-1620. ∑ cigarfactory 5500 Magazine St. Map 6 A2.
Laura’s Candies neworleans.com Map 6 C4. Tel 866-4916.
331 Chartres St. Green Serene Tel 269-6464. ∑ maplestreet
Map 4 C3. 2041 Magazine St. ∑ miminola.com bookshop.com
Tel 525-3880. Map 8 A3.
∑ laurascandies.com Tel 252-9861. Perlis Octavia Books
513 Octavia St.
6070 Magazine St.
Rouse’s Market ∑ greenserene.biz Map 6 B4. Map 6 C5.
701 Royal St. Map 5 D2. Hové Parfumeur Tel 899-7323.
Tel 523-1353. 824 Royal St. Tel 895-8661. ∑ octaviabooks.com
∑ rouses.com Map 5 D1. ∑ perlis.com
Tel 525-7827. One of four locations. Music
Crafts ∑ hoveparfumeur.com
Rubenstein’s
French Quarter Maskarade 102 St. Charles Ave. Louisiana
Flea Market 630 St. Ann St. Map 4 C3. Music Factory
Decatur and St. Philip sts. Map 4 D2. 421 Frenchmen St.
Map 5 D2. Tel 568-1018. Tel 581-6666. Map 5 E1. Tel 586-1094.
Tel 522-2621. ∑ frenchquarter ∑ rubensteins ∑ louisianamusic
∑ frenchmarket.org maskstore.com neworleans.com factory.com



182-187_EW_New_Orl.indd 187 05/08/16 3:56 pm

188  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in New Orleans

New Orleans is the best place to discover original
small boutiques that are owned by artists and
designers of all sorts – jewelers, painters, potters,
milliners, clothes designers, and many more – rather
than large department stores. In addition to these,
there are various tourist memorabilia and trinket
stores, which sell T-shirts, rubber alligators, Mardi Gras
beads, and other typical kitsch souvenirs. However,
to experience the quintessential New Orleans, look
out for the things that New Orleans does best –
cuisine, cocktails, and music.
Mardi Gras poster
Mardi Gras Memorabilia
Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ biggest and longest
party, and there are plenty of souvenirs that
visitors can take home. Masks are the most
alluring, and they can be found in shops and
stalls throughout the city. Prices can range
from as little as $20 to hundreds of dollars.
Masks are often handmade by individual
artists, including theater costume designers.
Less authentic trinkets include beads, mugs,
T-shirts, and other typical souvenirs.
Flea market stands with Mardi Gras souvenirs
African Art and Crafts
The heritage of New Orleans’
African cultures can be
found in a number of shops.
Here, you can buy African art
and crafts, including masks,
drums, sculptures, pipes, tables,
and items of personal jewelry.



African wood drum



Wood–carved African sculptures










Hand-Rolled Cigars
Music New Orleans is close to the Caribbean, both
Music is the lifeblood of the city, and a physically and culturally, and has a strong tradition
musical souvenir is essential. Record stores of importing Caribbean cigars. There are several
sell recordings of great artists playing stores where cigars are still hand-rolled. Even
traditional and modern jazz, gospel, blues, a single cigar or a rather expensive box make a
R&B, Cajun, and zydeco. perfect gift for any cigar aficionado.




188-189_EW_New_Orl.indd 188 05/08/16 3:50 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
What to Drink template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SHOPPING IN NE W ORLEANS  189


Voodoo Accoutrements
New Orleans is the one place in the
United States where the voodoo
religion was once openly practiced and
celebrated (see p85). Supplies of the
materials needed to perform voodoo
healings and other rituals – candles,
gris-gris to control the boss, ensure
safe travel, or promote love, voodoo
dolls, and more – can still be purchased
at several shops in the French Quarter.
These always make colorful and
unusual gifts.
Voodoo candle Gris-gris bags


Antiques
New Orleans is famous
for its tradition of
dealing in fine
antiques. You can
find 19th-century
furniture and
jewelry, as well as
other decorative
objects, for all
tastes and prices.



Antique shop on
Royal Street


The Flavors of Louisiana
Louisiana is famous the world
over for spicy, flavorsome cuisine
(see pp170–73). Most visitors want to
take some of it home and duplicate
those flavors in their own kitchens.
In many stores, shelves are lined with
hot sauces such as Tabasco, Crystal,
Panola, and Cajun Chef. Strands of
peppers and garlic and bottles of
Cajun and Creole seasoning can
be found at the French Market and
numerous stores in the area. Here
are some of the city’s quintessential
food gifts.
Roux mix for gumbos




Hats
Southerners, and New Orleanians in
particular, love hats. There are several
stores selling terrific ones for both
men and women (see pp185–6). They
stock every available kind, from
classic fedoras, derbies, and Stetsons
Olive salad dressing Beignet flour mix An instant traditional dish to berets, French legion caps, and
squashy barman hats.




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190  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
NEW ORLEANS

In 1817, a visitor to New Orleans wrote, joints and the annual Jazz Fest. The rallying
“There are few places where human life cry of Laissez les bons temps rouler! (“Let
can be enjoyed with more pleasure.” Little the good times roll!”) is taken quite literally
has changed since then, and New Orleans here. You’ll also find good times in sports,
remains a party town to this day. Even when including football, basketball, and horse-
it is not Mardi Gras, the mood is festive, racing, as well as casinos, stage productions,
and there is always a party somewhere. and bars, which approach an art form in
Music underpins the atmosphere, from tiny the Big Easy. For New Orleans’ best music
neighborhood bars to late-night brass band venues, see pages 196–7.

Rock, Blues, and Other
Music Venues
Music clubs in New Orleans
are almost celebrities in
them selves, with their own fans,
personalities, and idiosyn crasies.
The House of Blues (see p196)
and Tipitina’s are the two
leading ones by virtue of the
big names they book and their
unerring instinct for New
Orleans authenticity. House of
Blues is the largest and most
expensive of the clubs; as well
as enjoying top lineups, visitors
here can dine at the excellent
Spectators at a street performance in Jackson Square on-site restaurant.
Frenchmen Street, in the
Entertainment Guides
one’s age). Unlike most American Marigny, is where the locals go
It’s easy to find out what’s on in cities, it is legal to walk around for the full music experience,
New Orleans. The best guides with drinks in New Orleans, but drifting among the various
are the monthly maga zine they must be in plastic cups, or bars and clubs. The Blue Nile is
Offbeat, found free in cafés, “go cups.” It is illegal, however, to another club with a big dance
hotels, and other public places; have open alcoholic beverages floor where Latin, alternative
the Times-Picayune’s Friday in automobiles, even for rock, and brass bands play.
tabloid Lagniappe; and the passengers. Police keep a careful Hipsters hang out at Dragon’s
weekly alternative paper eye on popular gathering spots Den, where the music often
Gambit. For gay events and and are easy-going about tipsy goes on until daylight. Also on
entertainments, check the folks except if there is fighting Frenchmen is d.b.a., featuring
bi-monthly newspaper Ambush, or public urination, both of interesting musicians (often
distributed to gay bars and which will land miscreants in acoustic), and the crown jewel
clubs in the French Quarter and jail immediately.
the Marigny. Other sources of
information are the roots music
radio station WWOZ (90.7 FM) Tickets
and classical and jazz music The easiest way to buy
station WWNO (89.9 FM). tickets for concerts, football
Alcohol plays a big role in games, theatrical productions,
the bon temps in New Orleans. and other events is to call
Although the city has a the relevant box office or
fairly relaxed attitude toward Ticketmaster (www.ticket
drinking, there are still a few master.com). The major hotels
unbreakable rules. As in the rest and B&Bs usually have a
of the US, the drinking age is concierge who can facilitate
21, but anyone under 30 should booking tickets. Student and
expect to be “carded” (asked senior-citizen discounts are A live band performance at the House
to show a picture ID certifying available for many events. of Blues




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and crannies. On week ends,
dapper young jazz star Jeremy
Davenport and his band play
to sophisticated crowds. The
Bombay Club in the Prince
Conti Hotel is another oasis
of retro sophisti cation, with
plush decor, perfect martinis,
and light jazz.
Republic, a cabaret-style
music lounge that harkens
back to the 1940s, should
appeal to those who favor
hip and beautiful crowds. The
venue offers everything from
Live music at The Famous Door, Bourbon Street indie-rock concerts to fashion
shows and branded theme
of local jazz clubs, the Snug booking breaking new bands parties with celebrity sightings.
Harbor Jazz Bistro. and hosting original events The city’s major music venues
Bars in Bourbon Street are such as the annual will allow you to buy tickets
mostly frequented by tourists, Thanksgiving Turkey at the door or order them by
and the music played here Bowl. The Circle Bar on phone or online. At clubs,
tends to be mainstream Top 40 Lee Circle is a tiny there’s usually a cover
rock covers. There are a couple space that rocks, charge on weekends and
of genuine pearls on Bourbon – while Le Bon Temps for name acts. Most
The Famous Door has live Roule, located clubs with live music
music daily, while at Fritzel’s, Uptown on Magazine have a one- or two-drink
you can hear the best of local Street, is a favorite spot minimum policy.
jazz talents – but generally to catch live local bands.
speaking, to find the real New There are several pool Bars
Orleans, you need to look a tables, an extensive Street
little farther. on-tap beer selection, and musician It is possible to drink
The Balcony Music Club, a menu of better-than- around the clock in
on Esplanade Avenue, hosts average bar food. New Orleans, which is reported
everything from brass bands Dance clubs are not a big to have more bars per capita
to jazz singers. Although not New Orleans thing, but various than any other American city,
a club, the Louisiana Music DJs perform at the venues on all catering to the local passion
Factory record store (see the St. Claude and St. Bernard for a good beer or a nice
p186), on Frenchmen, has corridors, so see local listings cocktail. As an added bonus,
an impressive lineup of free for the most up-to-date many bars offer free Wi-Fi
concerts. The shop is a great information. access to their patrons.
place for close encounters with For refined nightclubs that There are several famous
blues, jazz, zydeco, and Cajun recall the elegance of earlier bars in the French Quarter
musicians who have daytime eras, there is The Davenport that deserve a visit. Pat
“in-stores” – live performances Lounge, in the Ritz-Carlton O’Brien’s is a classic bar with
and auto graphing sessions – Hotel. The room itself is lovely, its own trademark drink, the
to promote new albums with numerous romantic nooks lethal rum-and-fruit Hurricane
and concerts.
On Toulouse Street, One-
Eyed Jack’s is the latest
incarnation of a longtime
Quarter joint. The club is a
bubbly mixture of alternative
rock and hip-hop and Sunday
night burlesque shows. A Las
Vegas-style show can be
enjoyed at the Chris Owens
Club. The iconic Owens has
been performing in the Quarter
for at least three decades. For
clubs offering top less dancers,
head to Bourbon Street. In the
Warehouse District, the Howlin’
Wolf club is renowned for Fritzel’s, Bourbon Street’s traditional European jazz club




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192  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


(see p172). It also has a lush
courtyard with a flaming
fountain and free piano music.
The attractively shabby
Napoleon House (see p61)
is the kind of place where
you could see aspiring
novelists write their story as
they nurse a drink in one of
the dim corners. Lafitte’s
Blacksmith Shop (see p80),
in a crumbling 18th-century
building, sends waiters out
to passing horse-drawn
carriages to take drink orders. Gathering around Pat O’Brien’s famous fire fountain
New Orleans can do sleek
and upscale, too, as you’ll Serious drinkers will find Cooter dance clubs are the Bourbon
find at the Polo Lounge at Brown’s Tavern an impressive Pub & Parade Disco and
the Windsor Court Hotel, site, with its selection of more Oz, both on Bourbon Street.
Whiskey Blue at Le Méridien than 400 beers. The Bulldog, Nearby is Café Lafitte in
New Orleans, and the Swizzle also in the Uptown area, has a Exile, the town’s oldest gay
Stick Bar in Loews Hotel. In a huge beer selection as well, bar, with a balcony for
class of its own, however, is the but is better known as a college watching the street scene.
Hotel Monteleone’s Carousel pick-up bar than for its drinks. Good Friends is a relaxed spot
Bar, where the bar slowly Bacchanal Fine Wines in where conversation is easy.
revolves while the bartenders Bywater is a laid-back wine The Golden Lantern is a
at the center dispense brandy shop that holds more-or-less historic landmark, the place
Alexanders and other cock tails. continual wine tastings. where Southern Decadence
The sleek Loa at International Neighborhood bars first began more than
House are both distinctive are mostly friendly, 30 years ago, while The
and full of personality – welcoming places, Friendly Bar has the
and personalities! even if you feel of a neigh borhood
Irish bars are a reliable accidentally sit on a joint, with pool tables,
source of good fun. On Decatur stool that is “owned” cook outs, and regulars
Street, Kerry Irish Pub has by a regular punter. who truly embody the
Guinness on tap and live Vaughan’s Lounge, bar’s name.
music. Molly’s at the Market in Bywater, is a gritty
is more New Orleans Irish than spot that has live Theater,
authentic Irish, but it is a center music on Thursdays
Dance, and
of Celticism, holding its own and a bohemian Classical Music
St. Patrick’s Day parade every working-class esprit de Flamboyant parade
year. Uptown is Parasol’s Bar, corps every night. costume Jazz and contemporary
perhaps the most famous Finally, the F & M Patio music may dominate
Irish bar of them all. It is a Bar is known for attracting big the arts scene in New Orleans,
neighborhood hangout that crowds after Mardi Gras balls but there are also many gems
turns green on St. Patrick’s and debutante parties, when to be found among the classical
Day, with a huge street party people flock here to drink on performing arts. The city has a
that extends several blocks the patio, dance, and play pool. long and affectionate history
around the bar. with opera. The New Orleans
Opera Association is a small
Gay and Lesbian but valiant outfit bringing in
Bars and Clubs
recognized stars to headline its
The gay community four annual productions. The
in New Orleans is company, which has staged
large and visible. such beloved classics as La
During Mardi Gras Traviata, Faust, and Carmen,
(see p42) and Southern usually performs at the
Decadence (“the gay Mahalia Jackson Theater of
Mardi Gras”) (see p43), the Performing Arts (see p82).
the streets of the Lower The Mahalia Jackson Theater
French Quarter are full of the Performing Arts
of wild humor and underwent a massive
The brightly lit and slowly revolving Carousel Bar in outrageous costumes. renovation to reverse the
the Hotel Monteleone The two most popular damage done by the levee




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In the Marigny, The dazzling inside, with interiors
AllWays Lounge is a bar that suggest a frozen Mardi
and theater presenting Gras theme. Slot machines
more edgy material in predominate, but there are
an intimate, colorful also tables for blackjack, craps,
performance space. baccarat, and poker. Harrah’s
The New Orleans has slowly ventured into live
Contemporary Arts entertainment as well, with
Center (see p99) comedy and a Las Vegas-
doesn’t have a resident type revue. The area has two
company but hosts riverboat casinos – Treasure
numerous productions Chest in Kenner and Boomtown
every year, many of Casino on the West Bank.
The musicians of the Louisiana them multimedia,
Philharmonic Orchestra avant-garde works.
Le Petit Théâtre du Sports and Major Arenas
breaks of 2005. As a result, the Vieux Carré (see p57) is the city’s New Orleans loves its sports.
building has recaptured all of oldest theater troupe, dating The vast Mercedes-Benz
the glimmer and glamor of its from 1916. The company leans Superdome (see p97) is a
youth. Four more of the city’s toward musicals and comedies, national venue for sports, home
premier downtown venues usually with elaborate sets of the annual Sugar Bowl (see
were damaged by the disaster: and costumes. p45), and host to high-profile
the Municipal Auditorium, Professional dance companies events such as the Super Bowl.
the Saenger Theatre, the visit New Orleans several The hometown teams are the
State Palace Theatre, and the times a year under the aegis New Orleans Saints for football
Orpheum (the long-time home of the New Orleans Ballet and the New Orleans Pelicans
of the local orchestra). Along Association. There hasn’t been for basketball. After Katrina, the
with the old Joy moviehouse a New Orleans Ballet since 1991, venue was closed but reopened
on Canal Street, these venues but the organization presents in 2006 after a multimillion-
are in various stages of planning important companies such as dollar restoration.
for redevelopment as part the Alvin Ailey American Dance For baseball, the city has the
of a grand vision for a new Theater, the Miami Ballet, and Triple-A minor-league Zephyrs,
theater district. the Joffrey Ballet. Several times a farm team of the New York
The Louisiana Philharmonic a year, dance performances are Mets. They play at Zephyr
Orchestra (LPO) also has a also held at Newcomb College Stadium, in suburban Jefferson
strong traditional slant and of Tulane University (see pp112– Parish, a state-of-the-art facility
produces highly acclaimed 13), a former women’s college that even has a hot tub for use if
performances. The orchestra with a long history of dance you rent the private picnic area.
currently performs in the innovation and study. College baseball is a big draw,
Mahalia Jackson Theater and especially the Tulane, University
other venues around town. of New Orleans, and Louisiana
The symphony also holds Casinos State University teams.
several outdoor concerts Legal gambling came to New Horseracing has a long history
each year, in either Audubon Orleans in the 1990s, but the here. The Fair Grounds race
or City Park. law allows only one full-fledged course (see p128) is one of the
Theater in New Orleans has casino to exist at any one site. oldest continuously operated
become exciting with the rise of Harrah’s Casino (see p91) is a tracks in the country. The season
new playwrights, adventurous full-service casino that is runs from November to March.
productions, and an experi-
mental stage. The Southern
Repertory Theater is the city’s
leading theater company. It
presents strong new works
from around the country,
while actively seeking out
Louisiana playwrights.
There are also several nomad
theater groups that perform
in bars, coffeehouses, and
other unconventional spaces,
producing original works with
New Orleans themes and
reinterpreting the classics –
La Bohème in drag, for instance. The Mercedes-Benz Superdome, one of the country’s premier sports venues




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194  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


A major golf tournament is Cabildo also runs a good tour; The adventurous might enjoy a
held at the TPC Golf Course the Jean Lafitte National trip aboard an all-terrain airboat
on the West Bank, usually in Historical Park gives an excellent or a swamp tour. The Airboat
the last week of April. The free daily tour of the Quarter, but Swamp Tours are fast and
name of the event changes there are limited spaces. Contact exciting; for a slower and more
every few years depending the Visitors’ Bureau (NOCVB) for ecological look at swamps, try
on the corporate sponsorship. information on sign-up times. the Pearl River Eco-Tours or Dr.
Specialty tours can be good Wagner’s Honey Island Swamp
fun. For cemetery-only tours, Tours. Cajun Pride Tours also
Tours
contact the non-profit Save Our visits swamps and plantations.
Tours, especially walking tours, Cemeteries group. The New Some outfits offer combination
are a great way to experience Orleans Jazz National Historical tours with a hotel pick-up and
New Orleans. They are also Park hosts free walking tours that drop-off. Be aware that bus
the best option if you intend trace the growth of jazz. These tours around the city have
to visit the local cemeteries, don’t have regular schedules, limited access to the French
some of which are not safe so check with the NOMCVB. The Quarter, which bans large
for lone visitors. New Orleans Original Cocktail buses from its fragile interior
The Historic New Orleans Tour explains that the cocktail streets. Tours by Isabelle
Walking Tours offers the best was invented in New Orleans and does both city and plantation
regularly scheduled tours of the delves into the history of French tours in small buses and vans.
French Quarter (with a cemetery Quarter bars. The Culinary New Orleans Tours Inc.
component) and of the Garden History Tour visits restaurants offers a wide range of tours
District. In the French Quarter, and provides information about around the city, as well as to
the volunteer Friends of the New Orleans food and culture. plantations and swamps.
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Chickie Wah Wah Howlin’ Wolf Tipitina’s
Guides 2828 Canal St. 907 S Peters St. 501 Napoleon Ave.
Map 2 B4. Tel 304-4714. Map 4 C5. Tel 522-9653. Map 7 D4.
Ambush ∑ howlin-wolf.com Tel 895-8477.
∑ ambushmag.com Chris Owens Club ∑ tipitinas.com
500 Bourbon St. Le Bon Temps Roule
Gambit Map 4 C2. Tel 523-6400. 4801 Magazine St. Bars
∑ bestofneworleans. Map 7 D4.
com Circle Bar Tel 897-3448. Bacchanal
1032 St. Charles Ave.
Offbeat Map 8 B2. Tel 588-2616. Louisiana Fine Wines
∑ offbeat.com ∑ circlebarnola.com Music Factory 600 Poland Ave.
421 Frenchmen St. Tel 948-9111.
Times-Picayune The Davenport Map 5 E1. Tel 586-1094. ∑ bacchanalwine.com
∑ nola.com Lounge ∑ louisianamusic
Ritz Carlton, 921 Canal St. The Bulldog
WWNO Map 4 B3. Tel 524-1331. factory.com 3236 Magazine St.
∑ wwno.org Map 7 F4.
∑ ritzcarlton.com One-Eyed Jack’s
WWOZ d.b.a. 615 Toulouse St. Tel 891-1516.
∑ draftfreak.com
∑ wwoz.org 618 Frenchmen St. Map 4 C2. Carousel Bar
Tel 569-8361.
Rock, Blues, Map 5 E1. Tel 942-3731. ∑ oneeyedjacks.net Hotel Monteleone,
∑ drinkgoodstuff.com
and Other Republic 214 Royal St. Map 4 C3.
Music Venues Dragon’s Den 828 S Peters St. Tel 523-3341. ∑ hotel
435 Esplanade Ave. monteleone.com
Balcony Music Club Map 5 E1. Tel 949-1750. Map 4 C5.
Tel 528-8282.
1331 Decatur St. The Famous Door ∑ republicnola.com Cooter Brown’s
Tavern
Map 5 E1. 339 Bourbon St. 509 S Carrollton Ave.
Tel 522-2940. Snug Harbor
Map 4 C2. Jazz Bistro Map 6 A2.
Blue Nile Tel 522-7626. 626 Frenchmen St. Tel 866-9104.
532 Frenchmen St. Fritzel’s Map 5 E1. ∑ cooterbrowns.com
Map 5 E1. 733 Bourbon St. Tel 949-0696. F & M Patio Bar
Tel 948-2583. Map 4 C2. ∑ snugjazz.com 4841 Tchoupitoulas St.
∑ bluenilelive.com Tel 561-0432. Map 7 D5. Tel 895-6784.
The Spotted Cat
Bombay Club House of Blues 623 Frenchmen St. Kerry Irish Pub
830 Conti St. Map 4 C2. 225 Decatur St. Map 3 E1. 331 Decatur St.
Tel 586-0972. Map 4 C3. Tel 529-2583. ∑ spottedcat Map 4 C3.
∑ thebombayclub.com ∑ hob.com musicclub.com Tel 527-5954.
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DIRECTORY
Lafitte’s Café Lafitte in Exile Casinos Friends of the
Blacksmith Shop 901 Bourbon St. Cabildo
941 Bourbon St. Map 4 C1. Tel 522-8397. Boomtown Casino 523 St. Ann St.
Map 4 D1. Tel 593-9761. 4132 Peters Rd, Harvey.
∑ lafittes.com Tel 366-7711. Map 5 D2.
Loa at International The Friendly Bar ∑ boomtown Tel 523-3939.
House neworleans.com ∑ friendsofthe
221 Camp St. Map 4 C3. 2301 Chartres St. cabildo.org
Tel 553-9550. Map 5 E1. Harrah’s Casino
8 Canal St. Map 4 C4.
∑ ihhotel.com/loa Tel 943-8929. Historic New Orleans
Tel 533-6000. Walking Tours
Molly’s at the Market Golden Lantern ∑ harrahsneworleans. Tel 947-2120.
1107 Decatur St. 1239 Royal St. Map 5 D1. com ∑ tourneworleans.com
Map 5 D2. Tel 525-5169. Tel 529-2860. Treasure Chest
∑ mollysatthemarket. 5050 Williams Blvd, Jean Lafitte National
net Good Friends Kenner. Tel 443-8000. Historical Park
740 Dauphine St.
Napoleon House ∑ treasurechest 419 Decatur St.
500 Chartres St. Map 4 C2. Tel 566-7191. casino.com Map 4 C3.
Map 4 C2. Tel 524-9752. ∑ goodfriendsbar.com Tel 589-2636.
∑ napoleonhouse.com Oz Sports and ∑ nps.gov/jela
Major Arenas
Parasol’s Bar 800 Bourbon St. New Orleans
2533 Constance St. Map 4 C2. Tel 593-9491. New Orleans Pelicans Jazz National
Map 8 A4. Tel 897-5413. ∑ ozneworleans.com Tel 587-36637. Historical Park
∑ parasols.com ∑ nba.com/pelicans 916 N Peters St.
Theater, Dance,
Pat O’Brien’s New Orleans Saints Map 5 D2.
718 St. Peter St. and Classical Tel 731-1700. Tel 589-4841.
Map 4 C2. Tel 525-4823. Music ∑ neworleanssaints. ∑ nps.gov/jazz
∑ patobriens.com com
The AllWays Lounge New Orleans Original
Polo Lounge 2240 St. Claude Ave. TPC Golf Course Cocktail Tour
Windson Court Hotel, 300 Zurich Classic Golf Tel 569-1401.
Gravier St. Map 4 C4. Map 3 F3. Tel 218-5778. Tournament, 11001 ∑ graylineneworleans.
Tel 523-6000. ∑ theallwayslounge. Lapalco Blvd, Avondale.
∑ windsorcourthotel. net Tel 436-8721. com
com ∑ tpc.com New Orleans
Dixon Hall ∑ pga.com
Swizzle Stick Bar Tulane University, Tours Inc.
Loews Hotel, 300 6823 St. Charles Ave. Zephyr Stadium Tel 592-1991.
Poydras St. Map 8 B1. 6000 Airline Hwy. ∑ notours.com
Map 4 C4. Tel 734-5155. NOCVB
Tel 595-3305. Louisiana ∑ zephyrsbaseball.com
∑ cafeadelaide.com Philharmonic Tours (New Orleans
Convention and
Vaughan’s Lounge Orchestra Visitors’ Bureau)
800 Lesseps St. Tel 523-6530. Airboat Swamp Tours 2020 St. Charles Ave.
Tel 947-5562. ∑ lpomusic.org 4262 Hwy 90.
Tel (985) 758-5531. Tel (504) 566-5011.
Whiskey Blue New Orleans ∑ airboattours.com ∑ neworleanscvb.com
Le Méridien New Orleans, Ballet Association
333 Poydras St. Tel 522-0996. Cajun Pride Tours Pearl River
Map 4 C4. ∑ nobadance.com Tel 467-0758. Eco-Tours
Tel 525-9444. ∑ cajunprideswamp 55050 US 90, Slidell.
∑ mocbars.com New Orleans tours.com Tel (866) 597-9267.
Opera Association Culinary History Tour ∑ laecotour.com
Gay and Lesbian Tel 529-2278. Tel 427-9595.
Bars and Clubs Save Our Cemeteries
∑ neworleanspera.org ∑ noculinarytours. Tel 525-3377.
Bourbon Pub & com ∑ saveourcemeteries.
Parade Disco Theatre at St. Claude Dr. Wagner’s Honey org
801 Bourbon St. 2240 St. Claude Ave. Island Swamp Tours
Map 4 C2. Map 3 D4. Tel 638-6326. Tel 242-5877. Tours by Isabelle
Tel 529-2107. ∑ thetheatreat ∑ honeyisland Tel (877) 665-8687.
∑ bourbonpub.com stclaude.com swamp.com ∑ toursbyisabelle.com



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New Orleans’ Best: Music Venues

In New Orleans, where every night is Saturday night and every Saturday
night is New Year’s Eve, there’s always live music playing. Look beyond
Bourbon Street and the French Quarter for the real scene. You’ll find
world-class jazz, rock ’n’ roll, blues, Latin, funk, Cajun, zydeco, and that
New Orleans hybrid, brass-band funk, every night (and some days) of
the week. These clubs are the cream of the city’s club culture.














CARROLLTON AVENUE MID-CITY ESPLANADE AVENUE MARIGNY
ORLEANS AVENUE
TREME
LOWER FRENCH
Chickie Wah Wah CANAL STREET QUARTER
This popular bar features
rockabilly and Cajun bands, UPPER FRENCH
among others. There is a QUARTER
covered patio and service TULANE AVENUE
is friendly. PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRESSWAY



WAREHOUSE AND
CENTRAL BUSINESS
DISTRICTS









Maison Bourbon Jazz Club JACKSON AVENUE
A favorite with visitors to the
city, this club is one of the few
places on Bourbon Street where GARDEN DISTRICT
you can hear a live Dixieland AND UPTOWN
band. Good cocktails and a TCHOUPITOULAS STREET
refined atmosphere complete
the picture.


House of Blues
Technically part of a chain, but HOB is a
dream rock club with several stages, bars,
and hang-out spots. Big names play here.




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Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub
Fritzel’s blends reverence for traditional
jazz with a lively atmosphere. A favorite
drop-in for visiting musicians.
















ESPLANADE AVENUE
Snug Harbor Bistro
Not just New Orleans’ premier jazz club, but
one of the best in the US, hosting little-known
CARROLLTON AVENUE MID-CITY TREME MARIGNY
local virtuosos and big names on tour.
ORLEANS AVENUE
LOWER FRENCH
QUARTER
Palm Court Jazz Café
CANAL STREET
UPPER FRENCH The place for a classic
QUARTER jazz evening led
by great bands; the
hostess-owner loves
TULANE AVENUE
to lead a second line.
PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRESSWAY
WAREHOUSE AND
CENTRAL BUSINESS
DISTRICTS Preservation Hall
The place that kept traditional
jazz alive and vital. The
atmosphere is musty, dusty, and
old school, but the music is
worth it. No food or drinks
are allowed or served.

JACKSON AVENUE


GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN TCHOUPITOULAS STREET


One-Eyed Jack’s
Once called the Shim
Sham Club, this vintage
theater showcases
everything from Cajun 0 meters 500
bands and alternative
rockers to burlesque acts. 0 yards 500




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198  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Children’s Entertainment
and Outdoor Activities

New Orleans is renowned as an adult playground, but
there are many places in the area designed especially
for the younger generation. There is an enormous variety
of attractions and entertainment, from the thrill rides in
City Park to a ride across the mighty Mississippi on the
Canal Street ferry. The city also offers numerous outdoor
activities for all ages, from deep-sea fishing, tennis, and
golf, to swamp tours, birdwatching, biking, watersports,
and horseback riding.
Zoos, Aquariums, and Roller coaster ride at Storyland in
City Park
Amusement Parks
Two major attractions for antique carousel with 54
children and grown-ups alike beautifully carved animals,
are the Audubon Zoo bumper cars, a miniature train,
(see pp114–15) and the and the ubiquitous Tilt-a-Whirl
Audubon Aquarium of the complete the carnival atmosphere.
Americas (see pp92–3). The zoo
is home to more than 1,500
animals, many of which roam Fishing
about in natural habitats. The New Orleans is a famous port.
Louisiana Swamp exhibit, the Farther south toward the Gulf,
Jaguar Jungle, and the touchy- shrimp boats and the larger
feely Embraceable Zoo are all deep-sea boats offer a glimpse
geared toward education and of the industries that keep
understanding animals. The Louisiana rich. Anglers can fish
spectacular Audubon in Lake Pontchartrain or in City
Aquarium of the Americas Park’s lagoons, or charter a boat
houses thousands of fish, and try your luck at the big fish:
Supermarket for children at the Louisiana marine mammals, and water tarpon, snapper, and marlin.
Children’s Museum birds. The Entergy Giant Screen Angelle’s Atchafalaya Basin
Theater shows documentaries Swamp Tours, Griffin Fishing
Museums for Children on ocean life, and the Charters, and Capt. Phil
Many museums in and around Caribbean Reef exhibit gives Robichaux’s Saltwater Guide
New Orleans have arts and kids the opportunity to explore Service all offer fishing tours
educational programs designed an underwater habitat. and/or charters into the swamp,
specifically for young audiences. Storyland (see p120) in City Park coastal waterways, and marshes.
The New Orleans Museum of has 26 “storybook” exhibits by the Hotel shuttles, licenses, camera
Art (NOMA) (see p122–5) has a master Mardi Gras float creator and film, and all equipment are
museum-on-wheels program Blaine Kern (see p108). A working provided by these companies.
for kids, and also offers guided
tours focused on children’s
interests. The Louisiana
Children’s Museum (see p99)
caters to kids and parents,
and is specifically designed
to inspire questions through
hands-on exhibits, including
role-playing games.
Three museums in Kenner
are the Toy Train Museum, the
Mardi Gras Museum, and the
adjacent Kenner Planetarium,
and they are well worth the
short trip outside the city.
Kenner is located to the west of
the city, between New Orleans
and Baton Rouge on the I-10. Visitors at the Audubon Zoo




198-199_EW_New_Orl.indd 198 05/08/16 3:50 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm