BOURBON STREE T 49
Chris Owen’s Club
The legendary Owens has been Preservation Hall
on Bourbon Street for decades. An aptly named music venue, Preservation Hall has helped preserve
Dynamic shows include Las traditional New Orleans jazz. It opened in 1961, and still provides
Vegas-style cabaret. top-quality jazz.
ST ST ST
OUIS OUSE TER
L OUL PE
ST . T ST .
ST
ORLEANS
The French Opera House Cats Meow
Until it burned down in 1919, A young crowd
the French Opera House was the frequents this lively
social and artistic hub of New bar and its balcony.
Orleans. Nowadays, there is a
hotel on the spot.
Pat O’Brien’s
The birthplace
of the interna-
tionally renowned
“Hurricane” cocktail,
O’Brien’s has a
spectacular fire Fritzel’s
fountain in the Fritzel’s is the only traditional European live jazz club
main courtyard. in the city.
048-049_EW_New_Orl.indd 49 05/08/16 3:48 pm
50 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
A View of Royal Street
This is the most fetching street in the French quarter. It
is lined with antique shops that are filled with beautiful,
often French, treasures associated with an opulent
Southern lifestyle; crystal chandeliers, massive inlaid
armoires, ormolu furnishings, and more. In the early
colony, this was the city’s financial center and its main
and most fashionable street. Today, many stores occupy Street musicians provide open-air
handsome landmarks. entertainment on Royal Street
Conti St
Louisiana State Brennan’s (#417)
Bank (#403) Built around 1802 for a Spanish
Built in 1821, this merchant, this building later became
building was a bank and the property of Judge
designed by Alonzo Morphy. Brennan’s
Benjamin Latrobe restaurant moved here in
(right), who also 1954. Its balcony seal
designed the US is made of cast iron.
Capitol’s south wing.
0 meters 10
0 yards 10
St. Louis St Toulouse St
Galerie d’Art
Français
This art gallery
features a range
of works by
contemporary
French artists and
The Historic New Orleans Collection (#533) highlights New
Occupying a complex of houses built in 1792 for Orleans’ long-
Jean-François Merieult and his wife, this museum boasts standing connection
a magnificent collection of art and artifacts (see pp62–3). to French culture.
050-051_EW_New_Orl.indd 50 05/08/16 3:48 pm
RO Y AL STREE T 51
A Street of BOURBON STREET
Living Tradition
Royal Street is the pride
of the French Quarter. ORLEANS AVE
Its beautiful buildings
have been carefully CONTI STREET ST. LOUIS STREET ROYAL STREET ST. PETER STREET
maintained and are
today occupied by fine
stores and restaurants.
TOULOUSE STREET
CHARTRES STREET
Locator Map
0 meters 10
0 yards 10
St. Louis St
Moss Antiques offers
a fine range of French
antiques. Antoine Peychaud’s
Pharmacy (#437)
The cocktail was born here when
pharmacist Antoine Peychaud
mixed brandy with his bitters
and served the potion in a
coquetier (see p172). Today, it
0 meters 10
is an antique shop.
0 yards 10
St. Peter St Orleans St
St. Anthony’s
Garden
This beautiful garden
(see p57) stands at
the back of St. Louis
Cathedral. Its serenity
hides the fact that The LaBranche Buildings (#700)
it was a staging Embellished with fine oak-leaf ironwork, these
ground for duels buildings were constructed in 1835 for sugar
in the 18th century. planter Jean Baptiste LaBranche.
050-051_EW_New_Orl.indd 51 05/08/16 3:48 pm
052-053_EW_New_Orl.indd 52 05/08/16 3:56 pm
NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA 53
UPPER FRENCH QUARTER
The French Quarter is synonymous with (meaning Old Square) is quintessential
New Orleans. The original 20 blocks were New Orleans. The colorful Creole-style
laid out around present-day Jackson cottages featuring jalousie-shuttered
Square in 1721. The Upper French Quarter windows stand flush along the sidewalks.
runs from Iberville Street to St. Ann and There are also several Spanish-style
includes the busiest blocks of Decatur, buildings decorated with lacy iron galleries.
Chartres, Royal, and Bourbon streets. The This iconic neighborhood escaped with
last of these is particularly lively, offering very little wind damage from Hurricane
several bars that promise rollicking good Katrina and experienced no flooding in
times. Architecturally, the Vieux Carré the days that followed.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Theaters Restaurants see p174
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, 5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré 1 Antoine’s
and Presbytère pp58–9 Parks and Gardens 2 Arnaud’s
4 Pontalba Buildings 3 Bayona
6 Pirate’s Alley 1 Jackson Square 4 Camellia Grill
7 Père Antoine Alley and Boat Trips 5 Doris Metropolitan
St. Anthony’s Garden t Steamboat Natchez 6 Galatoire’s
q Louisiana Supreme 7 K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
Court Building 8 Nola
w Napoleon House 9 Pelican Club
Museums and Galleries 10 Rib Room
11 SoBou
3 The 1850 House
8 Museum of Death
9 Hermann-Grima E E T
Historic House
0 Historic New Orleans T S T R
Collection pp62–3 B U R G U N D Y S T R E E T S T. A N N S T R E E T
e New Orleans
Pharmacy Museum A M P A R O R L E A N S A V E N U E
r Jean Lafitte National S T. P E T E R S T R E E T
Historical Park
B O UR B O N S T R E E T
Visitor Center T H R R O Y A L S T R E E T
N O R D A U P HI N E S T R E E T
B U R G U N D Y S T R E E T C O N T I S T R E E T C H A R T R E S S T D E C A T U R S T R E E T WASHINGTON
T O U L O U S E S T R E E T
ARTILLERY
PARK
S T . LO U I S S T R E E T
R O Y A L S T R E E T
B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T
D E C A T U R S T R E E T C L A Y S T N O R T H F R O N T S T WOLDENBERG
0 meters 200 C H A R T R E S S T R E E T M i s s i s s i p p i
N O R T H P E T E R S S T
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
0 yards 200 CO NT I S T
PARK
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
See also Street Finder maps
3, 4, & 5
The historic St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square For keys to symbols see back flap
052-053_EW_New_Orl.indd 53 05/08/16 3:56 pm
54 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Upper French Quarter
This is the heart of the French Quarter, containing a
striking and harmonious collection of buildings. The lively
Jackson Square initially served as a military parade ground,
or place d’armes, where troops were trained and drilled,
executions carried out, and public meetings held. The
Cathedral, Cabildo, and Presbytère face the square. It was
redesigned in 1848, when Baroness Pontalba built the two
elegant apartment buildings on the upriver and downriver
sides of the square. An impressive statue of General
Jackson was also unveiled in the center of the square,
where artists now display their work.
7 Père Antoine Alley and
St. Anthony’s Garden
This garden was a favorite local
dueling place in the 19th century.
Tennesee Williams
wrote A Streetcar
Named Desire in an
apartment at 632
St. Peter Street.
5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré
This theater, established in 1916, moved
to its current location in 1919. The
C H A R T R E S S T R E E T W I L K I N S O N S T
building is a replica of the original. TOULOUSE ST
The Omni Royal
Orleans hotel (see
p166) is constructed
on the site of the 1836
St. Louis Hotel.
D E C A T U R S T R E E T
Key
Suggested route
0 meters 30
0 yards 30
w Napoleon House
The most beloved bar in the French
Quarter is devoted to Napoleon’s
memory. His portraits and other
memorabilia adorn the walls.
054-055_EW_New_Orl.indd 54 05/08/16 3:48 pm
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UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 55
2 . St. Louis Cathedral, MID-CITY
Cabildo, and Presbytère FRENCH
LOWER
These were the most important QUARTER
religious and administrative
UPPER
buildings in the French and FRENCH
Spanish periods. QUARTER
WAREHOUSE M i ssiss ippi
DISTRICT
& CBD
Locator Map
Street musicians See Street Finder maps 3, 4, & 5
play in front of
the cathedral.
S T . A N N S T R E E T
3 . The 1850 House
This small museum
displays opulent furniture
ST. PETER ST
and decorations that
W I L K I N S O N S T
convey the middle-class
lifestyles of the
antebellum era.
1 . Jackson Square
A magnificent statue of
General Jackson takes
center stage in
the square,
where artists
hang their
works “on
the fence.”
4 Pontalba Buildings
The handsome Pontalba apartments, built
in 1848 for $302,000, are located on the
upriver and downriver sides of the square.
054-055_EW_New_Orl.indd 55 05/08/16 3:48 pm
56 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
1 Jackson Square
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
Today, an attractive and lively
meeting place, this square was
named the Place d’Armes in the
early French colony, when it
was little more than a muddy
field. Here, the troops were
drilled, criminals were placed
in the stocks, and executions
were carried out. In 1850, it
was renamed for the hero
of the Battle of New Orleans
(see p19), after the Baroness Jazz band playing in Jackson Square
Pontalba paid for its
beautification and laid out The park is landscaped in a 2 St. Louis
the gardens and pathways radial pattern, with walkways Cathedral, Cabildo,
of the square as they exist stemming out from the center and Presbytère
today. Under her auspices, and there are plenty of benches
the Pelanne brothers to sit and enjoy the charm See pp58–9.
designed the hand some of the historical houses.
wrought-iron fence Outside the park, diverse
that encloses the artists rent space and 3 The 1850 House
square. At the hang their works on 523 St. Ann St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-
center stands a the enclosing fence, 6968. @ 5, 55. Open 10am–4:30pm
statue of General and there are plenty Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8
Andrew Jackson of artists waiting to
astride a rearing draw your portrait In the Lower Pontalba Build ing,
horse, which was Water vessel in the or caricature. On the this museum recreates an
sculp ted by Clark 1850 House flagstones around antebellum apartment. The
Mills for $30,000. the square, tarot three-story residence above the
The inscription, “The Union card readers, jazz musicians, ground-floor space is accessed
must and shall be preserved,” and clowns entertain visitors by a dramatic circular staircase.
on the plinth was added by throughout the week. There are The bedrooms contain all
Union General Benjamin also shops on the ground level the innovations of their day,
“Beast” Butler, when he of the Pontalba Apartments, including walk-in closets and
occupied the city during the selling gifts, clothing, candy, private bathrooms. Also
American Civil War (see p20). and ice cream. displayed are decorative arts
The Pontalba Buildings, the upriver side of Jackson Square
056-057_EW_New_Orl.indd 56 05/08/16 3:49 pm
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Size 125mm x 217mm
UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 57
and everyday artifacts of the
period. A gift shop occupies
the ground floor.
4 Pontalba
Buildings
St. Peter and St. Ann Sts. Map 5 D2.
v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. - =
In 1848, Baroness Micaela
Pontalba supervised the
building of these block-long
apartments flanking the
uptown and downtown sides
of Jackson Square. They were
erected for over $300,000, and
at the time they were con sidered Interior of Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré
the best and the largest
apartments of their kind. Lower Pontalba Building, but building where Faulkner wrote
At the age of 15, Micaela had in 1922, the current site was his first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
married the foppish aristocrat bought and was used for the in 1925.
Celestin Pontalba, a distant first American productions of
cousin, and moved to Paris. Eugene O’Neill’s Beyond the 7 Père Antoine
There, her father-in-law tried to Horizon and Oscar Wilde’s Lady Alley and St.
force her to sign over her entire Windermere’s Fan. It is a pretty
estate. When she refused, he building with a beguil ing Anthony’s Garden
attempted to kill her, but courtyard and fountain. Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
succeeded only in shooting In 2011, the board of directors
off two of her fingers. decided to convert part of the This alley is named for one
She courageously separated building into an eatery due to of the city’s most beloved
from her husband in 1848 and the severe financial problems clergy men, Father Antonio de
returned to New Orleans. The faced by the theater. The Sedella (Père Antoine), who
baroness, like her father the restaurant is run by the famous served as pastor of St. Louis
philanthropist Don Andrés Dickie Brennan. Cathedral for 40 years. He was
Almonester y Rojas, was a The theater hosts an annual loved for his compassionate
developer. With plans brought season of perfor mances from ministry to the poor, whom he
back from Paris, she proceeded September to June; it is advised assiduously fed and clothed.
to build apart ments like the you call ahead if you wish to The fenced garden, once
ones she had seen in Paris. buy tickets. It also acts as a a popular dueling ground,
Architects James Gallier and head quarters during the features a great sculpture of
Henry Howard drew up the Tennessee Williams New the Sacred Heart. In the early
plans. The design of the initials Orleans Literary Festival and morning and evening, the scent
A and P (for Almonester and Writers’ Conference. of sweet olive lingers in the air.
Pontalba) in the cast-iron
railings of the galleries and
balconies is attributed to one of 6 Pirate’s Alley
the baroness’s sons, an artist. Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55.
5 Le Petit Théâtre Although it is named after the
famous pirate brothers, Jean
du Vieux Carré and Pierre Lafitte (see p19), there
is no evidence here that this
616 St. Peter St. Map 5 D2.
Tel 522-2081. @ 5, 55. Box Office: was once a pirates’ haunt or a
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat. slave market. Today, the alley’s
Closed public hols. & classic bohemian atmosphere
and open-air cafés are what
This small theater was the make it worth seeking out.
brainchild of a group of actors The Faulkner House, a
called the Drawing Room bookstore where the shelves
Players, who came together in are lined with William Faulkner
1916 under the management first editions as well as works
of Mrs. Oscar Nixon. Their first by other major Southern Faulkner House, a bookstore in
theater was located in the authors, is located in the Pirate’s Alley
056-057_EW_New_Orl.indd 57 05/08/16 3:49 pm
58 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,
and Presbytère
This complex of buildings was the most important ensemble in
the early colony. The Cabildo, designed by Guilberto Guillemard,
was built and financed in 1795 by Don Andrés Almonester y
Rojas. It served as a capitol for the legislative assembly of the
Spanish colonial government, and subsequently as the City Hall.
From 1853 to 1911, it housed the state Supreme Court. The Casa
Curial, or Presbytère, was built between 1794 and 1813, and
served as a courthouse until 1911. Today, both buildings are
flagship properties of the Louisiana State Museum. Two earlier
churches on the site of the St. Louis Cathedral were destroyed, . Main Altar
the first by a hurricane in 1722, the second by a fire in 1788. The carved-wood Baroque altars
were constructed in Ghent,
The current building was begun in 1789 and dedicated as a Belgium, and brought to the
cathedral in 1794. It has been substantially modified since then. cathedral in pieces.
Cathedral Dome
A great mural of St. Louis announcing the Seventh Crusade
was painted above the altar.
Napoleon’s Death Mask
The museum’s collection
includes a casting of
Napoleon’s face made
after the French emperor’s
death in 1821.
. Sala Capitular
The Louisiana Purchase (see p19)
was signed in this room; this desk
set was in place at the time.
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UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 59
Ceiling Murals
Painted by Alsatian artist VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Erasme Humbrecht in
1872, the murals portray Practical Information
different biblical stories. Jackson Square. Map 5 D2.
Tel 525-9585 (St. Louis Cathedral);
568-6968 (Cabildo and
Presby tère). Open 10am–4:30pm
daily (St. Louis Cathedral);
10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun (Cabildo
and Presbytère). Closed all major
holidays (Cabildo and Presbytère).
& Cabildo and Presbytère.
5 St. Louis Cathedral, regular
services daily. 7 8 =
∑ saintlouiscathedral.org
∑ lsm.crt.state.la.us
Transport
v St. Charles Ave and Canal
streetcars. @ 5, 55, 81.
Mardi Gras Exhibits
Pieces of floats, colorful
costumes, and historic
photos bring Mardi Gras
to life all year round.
KEY
1 Cabildo
2 Stained-glass windows with
figures of Catholic saints adorn the
cathedral’s interior.
3 Presbytère
4 St. Louis Cathedral
5 The clock bell, given the name
“Victoire” by Père Antoine, was cast in
Paris. It has tolled hourly since 1819.
6 The steeples, the portico, and . Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond
the pilasters were added in 1851. Hurricane Katrina and storm science are explored
and explained at the Presbytère.
058-059_EW_New_Orl.indd 59 05/08/16 3:49 pm
60 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
Inside, the floors and doors
are made of cypress, and
the rooms feature elegant
marble fireplaces. The three-
story service quarters, located
in a separate building off the
parterre behind the house,
are also striking. They feature
slave quarters and a kitchen
containing a rare four-burner
wood-fired stove with a
beehive oven.
0 Historic New
Orleans Collection
See pp62–3.
q Louisiana
Supreme Court
Master bedroom, the Hermann-Grima Historic House Building
8 Museum of Death in the fascinating collection.
227 Dauphine St. Map 4 C2. Tel 593- There’s a stunning array of 400 Royal St. Map 4 C2. Tel 310-2300.
@ 5. v Riverfront. Open 9am–5pm
3968. @ 5. Open 10am–6pm Mon, taxidermy, as well as a skeleton Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.
Wed–Sun. & ∑ museumofdeath. of an alligator chewing on a ∑ lasc.org
net/nola human leg bone.
The Museum of Death’s When this massive granite and
This museum is not for the exhibits are constantly marble structure was built in
faint hearted or for families evolving and its owners are 1908–10, the French Quarter
with children. For visitors with always looking out for new and was on the downslide. Erecting
an interest in the many aspects interesting local artifacts and this splendid Beaux Arts court
of mortality and possessing stories. New Orleans is a city building was an early exercise
strong stomachs, it offers a with a special relationship to in urban renewal. Despite a
macabre collection of death, and while this musuem few protests, an entire block
gruesome exhibits, including isn’t for everyone, its presence of historic 18th- and early
skulls and coffins, apparatus here is appropriate. 19th-century buildings was
used by morticians, crime and razed to make way for it. The
morgue scenes, and even Louisiana Supreme Court
artworks and letters from 9 Hermann-Grima occupied it from 1910 to 1958.
infamous serial killers. Graphic Historic House
car accident photographs, a
real shrunken head, and 820 St. Louis St. Map 4 C2. Tel 525-
newspaper front pages 5661. @ 5. Open 10am–3:30pm
recording momentous and Mon–Tue, Thu–Sat. Closed public
tragic moments in American hols. & 8 7 ∑ hgghh.org
and world history also feature
This gabled brick house stands
out from those around it
because it is one of the few
examples of American Federal-
style architecture in the French
Quarter. William Brand built it
in 1831 for Samuel Hermann,
a German-Jewish merchant.
Unfortunately, he lost his
fortune in 1837 and had to sell
the house to Judge Felix Grima.
The house features a central
doorway with a fanlight and
marble steps; another window
Artworks, clothing, and other memorabilia with a fanlight graces the Facade of the Louisiana Supreme
on sale in the Museum of Death shop second floor. Court Building
060-061_EW_New_Orl.indd 60 05/08/16 3:56 pm
UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 61
remedies, many of which
were forerunners of today’s
drugs. These include a bottle
of salicin, an early form of
aspirin produced by Bayer &
Co. from black willow bark.
The museum also features a
splendid 1855 marble soda
fountain at which appealing
sodas were first concocted to
help the medicine go down.
The second floor features a
19th-century sick room, a fine
collection of eye glasses, plus
homeopathic remedies and
an impressive collection
of 19th-century dental
Napoleon House, surmounted by its landmark cupola instruments. The walled
courtyard garden is filled
Thereafter, the courthouse mezzanine. Together, they with medicinal herbs.
began to decline and massive were the home of Mayor
trees were planted on the site Nicholas Girod, who planned r Jean Lafitte
to hide the dazzling white to free Napo leon from National Historical
marble exterior. It was home imprisonment on St. Helena
to a string of state agencies, Island. With the help of Park Visitor Center
none of which took on the Dominique You and a 419 Decatur St. Map 4 C3. Tel 589-
maintenance necessary pirate band (see p19), 2636. @ 5, 55, 81. Open 9am–5pm
for such an Girod intended to daily. Closed Dec 25, Mardi Gras.
architecturally bring Napoleon 8 & 7 ∑ nps.gov/jela
intricate structure. In to this refuge, but
the 1990s, the state Napoleon died This visitor center has some
finally launched before the excellent displays on the
a renovation Marble detail from the mission could be geography, history, and culture
program, and since Supreme Court Building undertaken. Today, of the Mississippi River Delta
2004, the building the walls of the region. It also offers slide
has once again served as the house are adorned with all shows and ranger-led walking
home of the Louisiana kinds of Napoleonic decor and tours of the French Quarter
Supreme Court, the Louisiana memorabilia. Both buildings at 9:30 every morning.
Law Library, and various other are attributed to Hyacinthe The Jean Lafitte National
state legal offices. A small Laclotte, and the balcony Historical Park comprises six
museum on the first floor railings were crafted by William sites in all, including three in
includes exhibits on the Malus. The cupola on the roof Cajun Country (see p154 and
development of Louisiana law. is a New Orleans landmark. p159) and the Chalmette
Battlefield (see p90).
w Napoleon House e New Orleans
Pharmacy Museum
500 Chartres St. Map 5 D2. Tel 524-
9752. @ 5, 55, 81. Open 11am– 514 Chartres St. Map 5 D2.
5:30pm Mon, 11am–10pm Tue–Thu, Tel 565-8027. @ 5, 55, 81.
11am–11pm Fri–Sat. 7 0 - Open 10am–2pm Tue–Sat (to 5pm
∑ napoleonhouse.com Sat). Closed public hols. 8 & 7
∑ pharmacymuseum.org
One of the city’s most
atmospheric bars, Napoleon This museum is located on
House is famous for its Pimm’s the site of the first licensed
Cup and for a warm version pharmacy in the United States,
of the muffuletta (see p172), a operated by Louis Joseph
traditional New Orleans deli Dufilho from 1823 to 1855.
sandwich. It occupies two The original display cases and
buildings, one of which is a mahogany cabinets contain
two-story structure, built in some gruesome-looking early
1798, facing St. Louis Street; surgical tools – saws, knives,
the second, built in 1814, is and bloodletting instruments – A 19th-century soda fountain at the
a three-story building with a as well as early herbal Pharmacy Museum
060-061_EW_New_Orl.indd 61 05/08/16 3:56 pm
62 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
0 Historic New Orleans Collection
This massive collection, born of one couple’s interest in
the Battle of New Orleans, is housed in several 18th- and
19th-century structures. The Merieult House (1792) features
more than 10 galleries displaying historical artifacts, ranging
from maps and paintings to furnishings and decorative
objects. Free changing exhibitions are held in a gallery on the
first floor. The Williams residence, at the rear of the courtyard,
was the home of the collectors, General and Mrs. L. Kemper Williams Research Center
This facility houses the largest
Williams, who lived here from the 1940s to the 1960s. The private collection of historical
Williams Research Center, at 410 Chartres Street, holds documents in the city.
the archives of the collection.
Williams
Residence
20th-Century Gallery
On display here are books and
artworks depicting the city in
the 1900s, such as this Mardi
Gras poster.
Turn of the 20th
Century Gallery
In these years, New
Orleans transformed
into a modern and
ethnically diverse city.
KEY
1 The Counting House, once used
for banking activities, is now a lecture
hall and portrait gallery.
2 Merieult courtyard . Civil War Gallery
This gallery features a
3 The Shop at the Collection wall of shadowboxes that
4 Visitor welcome center highlight aspects of daily
life during this time.
062-063_EW_New_Orl.indd 62 05/08/16 3:56 pm
UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 63
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
533 Royal St. Map 4 C2.
Tel 523-4662. Open 9:30am–
4:30pm Tue–Sun (10:30am Sun).
Closed main hols. & 7 8 =
∑ hnoc.org
Transport
v St. Charles Ave. @ 55, 81, 82.
Slave Funeral
One of a series of paintings by John Antrobus evokes life on a Louisiana
plantation in the Civil War Gallery.
French Colonial Gallery . Spanish Colonial Gallery
French period items such as Portraits of residents during
this refectory table, used in the Spanish colonial era are
the Old Ursuline Convent, are shown here.
displayed here.
Louisiana Purchase Gallery
With its message of prosperity, this image
presents a rare welcome to the Americans
after the Purchase (see p19).
. Antebellum Gallery
On display here are items related to the city prior to
the Civil War, including Louis Dominique Grandjean
Main entrance Develle’s oil painting, French Market and Red Store.
Steamboat Natchez on the Mississippi River
062-063_EW_New_Orl.indd 63 05/08/16 3:56 pm
064-065_EW_New_Orleans.indd 64 13/08/14 2:10 pm
064-065_EW_New_Orleans.indd 65 13/08/14 2:10 pm
66 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
t Steamboat Natchez
For a reminder of the old days of river travel, visitors can take a
two-hour cruise on the Steamboat Natchez. In the 19th century,
steamboats traveled the length of the Mississippi, taking
between three and five days to get from Louisville, Kentucky,
to New Orleans. The boatmen were notorious brawlers who
went looking for women and liquor at the end of a trip and
established New Orleans’ reputation as the “City of Sin.” In
their heyday, from 1830 to 1860, some 30 steamboats lined
up at the levee. The steamboat era ended by the close of the
19th century as railroads and highways replaced them.
Steam Whistle
The genuine copper-and-
steel steam whistle is a
Pilot House treasured antique.
A telegraph is used for
communication between the Pilot
House and the Chief Engineer in
the engine room.
KEY
1 Magnolia Suite in the lower
deck for private events.
2 Bowthruster
3 Capstan
4 Bridge
5 The copper bell is inlaid
with 250 silver dollars to produce
a purer tone.
6 Gift shop
7 The Hurricane Deck features Stage
live jazz music. Gigantic ramps were used to board,
load, and off-load the steamboat.
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UPPER FRENCH QU AR TER 67
. Dining Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A casual buffet
dinner is served on Practical Information
the second deck,
featuring live jazz Woldenberg Riverfront Park
music by the Dukes wharf. Map 5 D2. Tel 569-1401.
Open Harbor jazz cruises
of Dixieland.
11:30am and 2:30pm daily, dinner
jazz cruise 7pm daily. & 7 0
= ∑ steamboatnatchez.com
Transport
v Riverfront. @ 45, 87.
Lifesavers are
distributed around . Steam Calliope
the ship. This 32-note steam calliope
was custom-crafted and
modeled after the “Gilded
Age” craft of the 1800s.
. Engine Room
These powerful
steam engines were
built for the US Steel
Corporation’s Paddlewheel
sternwheeler Twenty-five tons of white oak propel the
Clairton in 1925. steamboat along the river.
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068-069_EW_New_Orl.indd 68 05/08/16 3:56 pm
NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA 69
LOWER FRENCH QUARTER,
MARIGNY, AND TREME
Extending from beyond St. Ann Street to Louisiana Purchase (see p19), the Marigny
Esplanade Avenue is the more residential part Plantation was subdivided, and the area was
of the French Quarter. Within this area, the settled. Today, the Marigny is a lively place with
busiest sidewalks are those around the French restaurants and clubs. The area just west of the
Market, where stalls display hot sauces, strings French Quarter is the Faubourg Treme, which
of garlic and peppers, and other Creole and was settled largely by free people of color. This
Cajun specialties. The surround ing streets are area was moderately affected by Hurricane
lined with hand some Creole-style cottages. Katrina; the Old US Mint’s roof was torn off by
Esplanade Avenue divides the French Quarter high winds, and the Mahalia Jackson Theater
and the Faubourg Marigny. Soon after the of the Performing Arts suffered flood damage.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Churches 13 Lost Love Lounge
3 New Orleans Jazz National d Our Lady of Guadalupe Vietnamese Kitchen
Historical Park 14 Marigny Brasserie & Bar
5 Beauregard-Keyes House Theaters 15 Marti’s
7 Gallier House Museum s Mahalia Jackson Theater of the 16 Mimi’s in the Marigny
r Madame John’s Legacy Performing Arts 17 Mister Gregory’s
18 Mona’s Café
Parks and Gardens 19 Muriel’s
y Washington Artillery Park Restaurants see pp174–6 20 Port of Call
& Moon Walk 1 Adolfo’s 21 Praline Connection
i Washington Square 2 Arabella Casa di Pasta 22 Snug Harbor
o American Aquatic Gardens 3 Bennachin 23 Tujague’s
p Armstrong Park 4 Cane and Table 24 Verti Marte Deli
a Congo Square 5 Coops Place 25 Wasabi
Cemeteries 6 Eat
7 Elizabeth’s
f St. Louis Cemetery #1 8 Feelings
g St. Louis Cemetery #2 9 Fiorella’s Café
Historic Buildings 10 Horns
4 Old Ursuline Convent 11 Irene’s Cuisine
6 Soniat House 12 Kukhnya ST. B
8 Lalaurie House
9 Latrobe House LAHARPE ST ERNARD AVENUE
0 Gauche Villa COLUMBUS STREET See also Street Finder maps
N. VILLERE STREET
t Cornstalk Fence 2, 3, 4, & 5
u Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop N. ROBERTSON STREET KERLEREC STREET 0.6 mile
TOURO ST
Landmarks N O R T H C L A I B O R N E A V E N U E E N. RAMPART STREET
STREET
1 Flea Market ST. ANTHONY BURGUNDY ST
TREME STREET SPLAN
2 French Market GOVERNOR NICHOLLS STREET KERLEREC ST PAUGER ST FRENCHMEN ST 300 m
q Esplanade Avenue DUMAINE ST MARAIS STREET DAUPHINE ST
DAUPHINE ST
w Central Grocery ST. PHILIP STREET 550 yards
8 •13 •16
N O R T H R A M P A R T S T R E E T
e Café du Monde ST. PETER ST BARRACKS STREET ST ELYSIAN FIELDS AVENUE
BURGUNDY STREET
BOURBON
TREME ARMSTRONG ST. CLAUDE STREET ADE AVE NUE
ST. ANN STREET
ST
STREET
PARK
ORLEANS AVENUE
LAFITTE AVENUE
DECATUR STREET
URSULINES AVE
ST. PHILIP ST
NORTH P ETE RS ST
4 •5
NORTH ROBERTSON STREET ST. LOUIS STREET ST. ANN STREET ROYAL CHARTRES STREET 1.5 km
CONTI STREET
B A S I N S T R E E T
DUMAINE STREET
LASALLE STREET CROZAT STREET Mississippi
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
0 meters
C A N A L S T R E E T
0 yards 300 300
A traditional carriage riding through the quaint streets of the French Quarter For keys to symbols see back flap
068-069_EW_New_Orl.indd 69 05/08/16 3:56 pm
70 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: Lower French Quarter
The area surrounding the French Market is loaded with
atmosphere. It has long been a place for meeting and
mixing. In the city’s early days, Native Americans came to
this area to sell wild herbs, and today the district still offers
a range of exotic goods. French Market Place, formerly
Gallatin Street, was once the most notorious street in the
Quarter, populated by prostitutes, rowdies, criminals (like
the Black Hand Gang), and visiting sailors, who ventured
here at their peril. It was lined with so many brothels and
bars that it was dubbed “Louisiana’s Barbary Coast.” Today,
it still has plenty of bars, and some of the oldest and most
important buildings in the French Quarter. 7 Gallier House Museum
Set in a former residence, this is
an informative showcase of
6 Soniat House 19th-century life.
This residence has been
restored to its original
splendor, and serves
as a lovely small hotel
(see p166).
C H A R T R E S S T R E E T
5 Beauregard-Keyes
House, former home of
Frances Parkinson Keyes, GOV. NICHOLLS ST
is now a museum.
4 . Old Ursuline
Convent
Designed in 1745, and
built in 1752, this is
the oldest building in the
Mississippi Valley.
2 . Farmers Market at the
French Market
A New Orleans institution since 1791, the
Farmers Market is the place to visit
to stock up on fresh produce.
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 71
MID-CITY
LOWER FRENCH
QUARTER,
MARIGNY,
AND TREME
UPPER
FRENCH
QUARTER Mississippi
WAREHOUSE
DISTRICT
& CBD
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 2, 3, 4, & 5
0 Gauche Villa
Built in 1856, this house is notable for its
beautiful cast-iron balcony. Architect James
Freret designed the house.
q Esplanade Avenue
This beautiful avenue was the
aristocratic residential street of
the Creole community in the 19th
century. It marks the division
between the French Quarter and
the Faubourg Marigny.
D E C A T U R S T R E E T ESPLANADE AVENUE
Key
B A R R A C K S S T
Suggested route
0 meters 30
0 yards 30
1 Flea Market
at the French Market
Handcrafts, souvenirs, and curiosities can
be found at this popular flea market.
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72 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
1 Flea Market
French Market, North Peters St,
between Gov. Nicholls and Barracks
sts. Map 5 E1. v Riverfront. @ 55.
Open 9am–6pm daily. 7 = - 0
∑ frenchmarket.org
At stalls and tables inside and
outside the French Market
buildings, all kinds of items can
be bought, from jewelry and
pottery to African arts and
crafts. Food and drink are avail
able at various eateries in the
French Market and from the Typical French Market stand displaying bags and clothing for sale
Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays
and Saturdays. The flea market and Barracks streets, but in daily 4 Old Ursuline
stands on the site of the use, it usually denotes the Convent
notorious neighborhood once openair markets starting at St.
called the “port of missing men,” Philips Street. At the Farmers’ 1100 Chartres St. Map 5 D1.
because so many men who Market (starting at Ursulines Tel 5293040. v Riverfront. @ 55.
visited the local bars and brothels Street), you can still find fresh Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat. & 8
were shanghaied or killed. produce and walkup food Dating from 1752, this is
stands. The Flea Market sells a the oldest building in the
diverse range of clothing, Mississippi Valley. With its
antiques, and art. steeppitched roof punctuated
by a row of dormers and tall
chimneys, it is typically
3 New Orleans French Colonial.
Jazz National In the 1820s, when the
Historical Park nuns departed to new
quarters, the convent became
916 N Peters St. Map 5 D1. the first official residence for
Tel 5894841. v Riverfront. the bishops and archbishops
@ 5, 82. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. of New Orleans, and the home
Closed Jan 1, Thanks giving, Dec 25. of the archdiocesan archives.
8 ∑ nps.gov/jazz Later, the convent became part
of a parish complex and the
Colorful wares for sale at New Orleans’ The National Park Service offers old nuns’ kitchen and laundry
Flea Market seminars and jazz concerts at became (as it remains today)
this small visitors’ center; ranger the rectory for Our Lady of
guided walking tours also Victory Church.
2 French Market depart from here. Perseverance The current chapel, conse
Hall in Arm strong Park (see p81) crated in 1845, was originally
North Peters St to Barracks St.
Map 5 E1. v Riverfront. @ 5, 48. also hosts NPS educational known as St. Mary’s, but today
Open 10am–6pm daily (some parts concerts, including music it is called Our Lady of Victory.
are open later). = - 0 workshops for children. Inside, visitors can admire the
Despite its name, this spot has
been a gathering place for
many different ethnic groups.
Originally, Native Americans
came here to sell their baskets,
beads, and filé (ground sassafras
leaves used in gumbo). Later,
AfricanAmerican women sold
various wares including calas
(hot rice cakes). German
farmers from upriver sold agri
cultural produce, and Italians
operated most of the stalls in
the late 1800s. Today, the
French Market officially covers
the five blocks between St. Ann Main facade, Old Ursuline Convent
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 73
famous Civil War hero, his
name is still associated with
the building.
Novelist Frances Parkinson
Keyes, who wrote many of her 51
novels here, including Dinner at
Antoine’s, restored the property.
Today, many of her personal
possessions are on display,
including all of her novels, plus a
collection of dolls from all over
the world. The rooms are
arranged around an attractive
court yard, which contains a
fountain that Mrs. Keyes brought
from Vermont, her home state.
6 Soniat House
1133 Chartres St. Map 5 D1.
Tel 522-0570. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
∑ soniathouse.com See Where to
Stay, p166.
This historic residence was built
in 1829 as a townhouse for
wealthy sugar planter Joseph
Soniat Dufossat and his family.
Joseph was the second son of
Chevalier Guy Saunhac du
Fossat, who had been sent to
Louisiana by Louis XV of France
in 1751 to help the fight against
the Native Americans.
The house combines
Creole style – the flagstone
Decorative ironwork balcony at Soniat House, a popular luxury hotel carriageway, a courtyard, an
external spiral staircase, and
splendid pine and cypress including master chess player lacy iron galleries – with Greek
ceiling, two fine Bavarian Paul Morphy who was born Revival detail in the mantels
stained-glass windows, and here in 1837, when it was the and moldings. In the 1940s,
a window depicting the Battle residence of his grandfather, the Nathaniel Felton family
of New Orleans (see p19) Joseph Le Carpentier. General restored it completely. Today,
beneath an image of Our P. G. T. Beauregard lived here it is a small hotel, exquisitely
Lady of Prompt Succor. briefly for 18 months in 1866–7, furnished with authentic
A formal French garden and because he was such a antiques and decoration.
containing a handsome iron
gazebo lies in front of the
building. It is accessed via the
porter’s lodge.
5 Beauregard-
Keyes House
1113 Chartres St. Map 5 D1.
Tel 523-7257. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
Open 10am–3pm Mon–Sat. &
8 hourly. ∑ bkhouse.org
Twin staircases lead up to this
Federal-style townhouse,
designed by François Corre jolles
in 1826. It is associated with
several famous New Orleanians, Grand entrance to the Beauregard-Keyes House
072-073_EW_New_Orl.indd 73 05/08/16 3:56 pm
74 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
7 Gallier House
Museum
1132 Royal St. Map 5 D1. Tel 525-
5661. @ 5, 55, 81. Open 10am–
3:30pm Mon & Thu–Sat. Closed public
hols. & 8 ∑ hgghh.org
In 1857, James Gallier, Jr.
designed this attractive
residence, which combines
architectural elements of the
Creole, with great height and
verticality, and the American
townhouse, with Federal-style
windows and doorways
(see pp36–7). The interior
incorporated many innovations
of its time, including an
ingenious hot-water and
ventilation system. The kitchen
was also inside the house,
which was unusual for the
period because of the danger
of fire. On the exterior, the
rosebud design of the railings
is striking.
Inside, visitors can view the
“isolation room,” a sparsely Lalaurie House, associated with ghostly visions
furnished room designed for the
sick. Many households had such 8 Lalaurie House destroying the place. During
a room, which was not surprising 1140 Royal St. Map 5 D1. @ 5, 55. the melee, Madame Lalaurie
in a city that experienced 23 Closed to the public. and her husband escaped
yellow fever epidemics between unharmed. After she died in
1718 and 1860. Residents of the French Quarter 1842, it is believed that her
James Gallier, Jr. was the still hurry past this otherwise body was secretly returned
son of the city’s renowned lovely building because of from Paris and was buried
architect James Gallier, Sr., its grim associations and in St. Louis Cemetery #1
who designed Gallier Hall (see reputation for ghosts. It (see p84) or #2 (see p85).
p97). Gallier Hall served as the was built in 1832 for a During the Civil War
City Hall until the 1950s. James distinguished couple, (see pp20–21), the
Gallier, Jr. also designed the Dr. Leonard Louis house served as a
portico of the Louisiana State Nicolas Lalaurie and his Union headquarters;
Bank building (see p50). wife, Delphine, who later it was used
were well known for variously as a school,
their fashionable and conservatory of music,
lavish parties. and gaming house.
At these social A private residence
events, though, guests Front door at now, some locals still
could not help but Lalaurie House swear that the house is
notice the condition of haunted, and that the
the servants, who were clanking of chains can be heard.
painfully thin and seemed to be
terrified of their mistress. The
gossip about how she treated 9 Latrobe House
her slaves was confirmed on 721 Governor Nicholls St. Map 5 D1.
April 10, 1834, when a fire @ 5, 55. Closed to the public.
broke out at the residence.
When neighbors rushed in to When Benjamin Henry Latrobe
extinguish the fire and save designed this building in 1814,
the contents, they found seven with its sturdy Doric columns,
half-starved and manacled he helped launch the mania in
slaves. A story in the local press New Orleans for Greek Revival-
Gallier House, an innovative 19th- further fueled the outrage, style architecture. Known as
century residence and a mob arrived intent on the first professional architect in
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 75
the US, Benjamin Henry Latrobe
(1764–1820) was born in
England, and after working as a
professional architect for several
years in Europe, he came to the
United States in 1796. Latrobe
was highly influential, and built
a variety of private residences
and public buildings, the latter
ranging from waterworks
to cathedrals. He is largely
responsible for the interior of
the US Capitol Building, and
for the East Portico of the
White House. He died in New
Orleans of yellow fever while
supervising the building of Gauche Villa, with its superb original ironwork
a new waterworks.
adorns the balcony, cast in street cut through what was
Saarbrucken, Germany, and the most aristocratic Creole
0 Gauche Villa shipped to New Orleans. Rows neighborhood of impressive
of anthema and other Greek villas and townhouses. The
704 Esplanade Ave at Royal.
Map 5 D1. @ 5. v Riverfront. floral motifs decorate the edge fashionable elite paraded in
Closed to the public. of the roof and the fence posts. their carriages past the many
Architect James Freret designed elegant residences, some of
The beautiful ironwork of this the house for crockery merchant which have survived to this day.
residence is uniquely integral to John Gauche in 1856. Many of these homes were
the villa’s overall design, which designed by the city’s foremost
accounts for the building’s q Esplanade architects, including Henry
harmonious appearance. Little Howard, James Gallier, Sr., and
of the cast ironwork in New Avenue William and James Freret. Their
Orleans was constructed at the Maps 2 B2/C2–3 and 3 D3/E4. styles range from Greek Revival
same time as the building – @ 46, 48. to Italianate and Queen Anne.
mostly it was added as an Most are still private residences,
afterthought. Numerous Today, Esplanade Avenue acts but some have been converted
patterns are used on the fence, as the dividing line between the into handsome bed-and-
the gate, the balconies, and French Quarter and Faubourg breakfasts. A stroll along this
the parapet, casting lovely Marigny, and extends from the street will reveal over 190
shadows on the stucco exterior Mississippi to Bayou St. John. As homes that were built before
on sun-filled days. A bacchant early as the 1830s, this broad, 1900. Every block contains
surrounded by grapevines tree-lined 3-mile (2-km) long numerous architectural gems.
Elegant residences lining Esplanade Avenue
Stalls at the French Market
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076-077_EW_New_Orl.indd 76 05/08/16 3:56 pm
076-077_EW_New_Orl.indd 77 05/08/16 3:56 pm
78 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
w Central Grocery
923 Decatur. Map 5 D2. Tel 523-
1620. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. = 0
This historic store, one of the
few Italian delis left in the city,
sells all kinds of Italian food,
from pasta, provolone, and
mozzarella, to sausages,
parmesan, and olive oil. In the
1890s, many Italians began to
move to the French Quarter,
and became major stallholders
at the nearby French Market (see
p70). Today, customers gather at
the counters at the back of the
store to order another specialty, Taking a break at Café du Monde, with beignets and coffee
the muffuletta (see p172), which
is a sizable sandwich filled with During the mid-19th century, which rise some 9 ft (3m)
deli meats and cheeses. The there were as many as 500 off the ground. A veranda,
most vital ingredient, however, similar coffee houses in the accessible via French windows
is the olive salad – a blend of French Quarter. Coffee was one from all the rooms, extends
olives, celery, carrots, cauliflower, of New Orleans’ most important around the first floor.
and capers, which can also be commodities, and the coffee The name Madame John’s
purchased at the store. trade helped the economy Legacy refers to George
recover after the Civil War, when Washington Cable’s famous
New Orleans vied with New story Tite Poulette (1873), in which
York City to control coffee the hero leaves a residence as a
imports. During the Civil War, legacy to his quadroon mistress,
locals drank coffee flavored with who sells the building, deposits
peanuts and pecan shells, to the cash in a bank, and loses
make the coffee supply last. it all when the bank fails.
Cable used this residence as a
r Madame model of the home in his story.
In the late 19th century, the
John’s Legacy house was converted into
rental apartments, which
632 Dumaine St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-
6968. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront. were occupied by a mixture
Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. of immigrants.
Closed public hols. & 8 Today, exhibits in the first-floor
∑ louisianastatemuseum.org/ galleries relate the history of
Olive salad and other deli specialties at museums/madame-johns-legacy/ the house and its many owner-
the Central Grocery residents. Among them were
Dating from 1789, this is one of Jean Pascal, a Provençal sea
the oldest surviving residences captain who built the original
e Café du Monde in the Mississippi Valley. It is a house on this site before being
typical Creole plantation- killed by Natchez Indians in
800 Decatur. Map 5 D2. Tel 525-
4544. @ 5, 55. v Riverfront. style house, suppor ted 1729; pirate-admiral
Open 24 hours daily. Closed Dec 25. on brick piers René Beluche,
7 - = ∑ cafedumonde.com
Everyone who visits New
Orleans stops here for a plate of
sugar-dusted beignets (square
French donuts) accompanied
by café au lait or the famous
chicory-flavored version, iced
coffee or a glass of milk. This
coffeehouse, which was
established in 1862, is perfect
for relaxing at a table under
the arcade and listening to the
street musicians entertain. Madame John’s Legacy, among the oldest residences in the Mississippi Valley
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 79
who was born here and
later served in the Venezuelan
Revolutionary Navy; and
the Segher family, whose
household inventory featured
four slaves, including a mulatto,
valued at $2,500, and his
daughter, who was valued at
only $1,200, because she had
been promised her freedom at
age 30. The second-floor
galleries are now used for
contemporary art exhibitions.
t Cornstalk Fence
Artillery Park and Moon Walk on the Mississippi River
915 Royal St. Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55.
This handsome cast-iron y Washington Landrieu, who approved the
landmark fence is one of three Artillery Park and construction of a boardwalk
remaining in the city (see p108). that made the riverfront area
It was erected around 1850, Moon Walk accessible to the public in
when cast iron began replacing Decatur Street (between St. Ann and the 1970s. For decades, it had
wrought iron (see pp40–41). The St. Peter sts). Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55. been walled off by port
cornstalks are entwined with v Riverfront. authorities, so the public was
morning glories, and each able to re-establish its historic
element is painted in its natural Washington Artillery Park faces relationship with the riverfront.
color – yellow for the ears of corn, Jackson Square from across Today, Moon Walk is favored
green for the stalks, and blue for Decatur Street. Inside the park by street performers. Crowds
the morning glories. A butterfly is an austere concrete amphi- often gather to witness
decorates the central portion of theater with a central staircase impromptu performances
the gate, and a spray of holly leading to the Moon Walk. This by solo musicians, including
adorns the bottom. It was cast community boardwalk was guitarists, clarinetists,
by the prestigious Philadelphia named after former New saxophonists, trombonists, and
company, Wood & Perot. Orleans Mayor Maurice “Moon” steel drummers, who play with
an open music case at their feet
to collect donations.
Standing on the Moon Walk,
the audience can enjoy a
welcome break from the city’s
humidity, as a constant breeze
along the waterfront makes
temperatures feel several degrees
cooler than in the rest of the
city. It also provides an excellent
vantage point from which to
view the river, Jackson Square,
and the surrounding area.
Stone steps lead right down
from the boardwalk to the
Mississippi River where you can
sit and dangle your feet in the
whiskey-colored water, or watch
the steamboats, ocean-going
barges, and other river traffic
float past. Do not attempt to
stand in the river, however, as
the current is deceptively rapid
and powerful.
If you do want to get closer to
the water, there are plenty of river
cruises – from 1-hour sightseeing
trips to romantic night-time
Cast-iron Cornstalk Fence surrounding the Cornstalk Hotel dinner cruises (see p213).
078-079_EW_New_Orl.indd 79 05/08/16 3:49 pm
80 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
i Washington
Square
Frenchman between Royal and
Dauphine. Map 5 E1. Open 9am–6pm
daily. @ 5, 55. 7
Washington Square, one of the
earliest parks to be laid out in
New Orleans, was created in
1808. It lies at the center of
the Faubourg Marigny, today
it is the most “bohemian” part
of New Orleans and home to
most of the city’s gay community.
The park is a good place to
throw a frisbee and for ball
games, or just to relax on the
green areas it offers. There are
also open-air concerts and
plays here in summer and
Tree-shaded passage in Washington Square caroling in December.
u Lafitte’s and with their band they
Blacksmith Shop fought bravely in the ensuing
battle (see p19). Regardless of
941 Bourbon St. Map 5 D1.
Tel 593-9761. @ 55, 89. whether this shop was indeed
Open 10am–4am daily. 7 occupied by the Lafitte brothers,
∑ lafittesblacksmithshop.com the building certainly existed
to witness Jean Lafitte brazenly Water lily at the American
This is the oldest bar in New walking the streets when Aquatic Gardens
Orleans. It is an example of the posters calling for his capture o American
brick between posts (see p36) were plastered all over town.
French-style building, and Just up Bourbon Street from Aquatic Gardens
was constructed sometime Lafitte’s stands another bar, 621 Elysian Fields. Map 5 E1.
before 1772, although the called Lafitte’s in Exile. It is Tel 944-0410. @ 5, 55. Open 9am–
precise date is unknown. Inside, so called because, until the early 4pm daily. Closed major holidays. =
several small fireplaces warm 1950s, gays frequented the old ∑ americanaquaticgardens.com
the place on cool evenings, Lafitte’s; when the bar changed
and there is also a small patio hands, its new owner refused to This delightful “store,” which
containing a sculpture of renew the lease, and in 1953 its occupies half a city block,
Adam and Eve embracing on a gay patrons were driven into is the largest – and widely
bed of ivy. The sculpture was exile. They established their new considered the best – aquatic
created by an artist as payment quarters just up the street at plant nursery and garden
for his bar bill. Lafitte’s in Exile, making it the supply store in the United
Despite its name, there is no oldest gay bar in the US. States. It is worth visiting for its
proof that the pirate brothers,
Jean and Pierre Lafitte, operated
a smithy here as a front for their
smuggling activities. Very little
documentation of their lives
exists, so that many myths have
been woven around these
two legendary figures. They
operated as smugglers and
were prominent slave
traffickers, selling all manner
of contraband, including
seized slave ships, when the
importation of slaves into the
United States was forbidden
in 1808. They earned local
gratitude by warning the
Americans of the planned
British attack on New Orleans, The historic Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 81
Main entrance to Armstrong Park
glorious display of aquatic and to the Colored Waifs’ Home his death in 1971. The park
exotic plants in the outdoor after firing a pistol in public. features an artificial lake, the
gardens, which include an It was there that he learned Mahalia Jackson Theater of
Asian garden complete with to play the trumpet, and soon the Performing Arts (see p82),
decorative Buddhas and he was talented enough to and Congo Square (see p82).
Oriental lanterns. The water challenge such leading players The National Park Service
gardens contain exquisite as Joe “King” Oliver and Freddie opens its historic Perseverance
water lilies, and there are also Keppard. He left New Orleans Hall in the park from 9am until
spectacular sculpted fountains, in 1922 to join King Oliver 5pm on Saturdays. The venue
handsome statuary, attractive in Chicago, and went on to hosts educational concerts,
pond designs, and ornamental build an international career, including a traditional music
wall planters. The gardens entertaining audiences until workshop for children.
were quite badly damaged
by Hurricane Katrina, but they
have now been repaired. Women in Jazz
Jazz was not solely a male preserve; many noted female singers
and musicians also made their names in New Orleans. Blanche
p Armstrong Park Thomas declined the life of endless one-night stands and stayed
in the city singing the blues with such artists as Al Hirt and Pete
Rampart St between St. Peter St and
St. Ann St. Map 4 C1. @ 5, 48, 88, 89. Fountain. She could be heard in the
bars along Bourbon Street in the early
Named for the legendary 1970s, where her command of
trumpeter Louis “Satchmo” traditional jazz and big blues voice
Armstrong (see pp22–3), made her a particular favorite. Singer
this spacious park stands Louise “Blue Lu” Barker is said to have
on hallowed jazz ground. influenced both Billie Holiday and
It is situated near what used Eartha Kitt. Lizzie Miles dazzled the
crowds in the 1920s, and Esther Bigeou
to be Storyville (see p83), was dubbed the “Creole songbird” in
the legal red-light district the 1930s. There were also some
that nurtured so many of prominent female instrumentalists in
the early jazz artists. the early jazz bands – pianists like
Armstrong’s statue stands Blanche Thomas Sweet Emma Barrett and Lil Hardin. The
in the park, and his name is most famous female jazz musicians to
emblazoned on the arch at emerge from New Orleans were the Boswell Sisters (see p23), a trio
St. Ann Street. He was born of middle-class white girls who learned jazz from growing up in a
in New Orleans on August 4, mixed-race neighborhood. Their close harmonies and up-tempo
1901, and as a boy he spent tunes propelled them out of New Orleans and on to a national
his time singing on the streets weekly radio program in the 1930s, and then into movies.
in a quartet until he was sent
080-081_EW_New_Orl.indd 81 05/08/16 3:49 pm
82 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
a Congo Square
N Rampart St, between St. Peter St
and St. Philip St. Map 4 C1.
@ 5, 48, 88, 89. 7
Under the Code Noir (an edict
concerning the treatment of
slaves), slaveholders were
forbidden to work slaves on
Sunday in order to encourage
them to attend church and
become good Roman Catholics.
Such minimal amounts of
freedom allowed the slaves
of New Orleans to retain more
of their African heritage
than those in other
parts of the South.
On Sunday
afternoons, during
the 18th and early Congo Square, home of the calinda and bamboula dances
19th century,
slaves and free s Mahalia Jackson beauty shop, then a flower
people of color Theater of the store. Despite her strict
would gather in Performing Arts upbringing, she fell in love
Sidney Bechet’s Congo Square with the syncopated rhythms
statue (also known as 1419 Basin St. Map 4 C1. Tel (504) 287- of blues but never sang the
Place des Nègres), 0351. @ 48, 46, 52, 57. & 7 more bawdy songs in its
part of Armstrong Park (see p81), ∑ mahaliajacksontheater.com repertoire. Jackson was
to speak in their native African discovered in the 1930s and
tongues. They would sing and Named for the celebrated made her first recording in
dance, and perform the calinda, gospel singer Mahalia Jackson 1934. Her career took her to
an African line dance, and the (1911–72), this theater is used Carnegie Hall, the Newport
bamboula. These dances were by local and visiting dance, Jazz Festival, and other major
one of the chief origins of jazz, music, and theater companies. music venues. Jackson was
and Congo Square is thus A New Orleans native, also active in the civil rights
remem bered as one of the Jackson began her career movement and was a supporter
birthplaces of jazz music. The singing in the local church, of Martin Luther King, Jr.
infamous Marie Laveau (see p85) where her father was a pastor. The theater suffered flood
is said to have performed At the age of 16, she moved to damage after Hurricane Katrina
voodoo rituals here. Chicago and opened first a but has been restored.
The Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 83
of the French Quarter in 1826, something in a hurry. St. Expedite
when funerals were no longer is also associated with voodoo
being held in St. Louis Cathedral, (see p85), which is why the
for fear of spreading yellow fever church is called the “voodoo
(see p20). It was originally known church.” Guadalupe is the official
as “Mortuary Chapel” because all place of worship for the police
the bodies were taken directly and fire departments, whose
from the chapel to St. Louis altar stands to the right of
Cemetery #1 (see p84), via the the main altar.
back entrance. It displays several
brilliantly colored stained-glass
windows, representing different
saints honored by devoted
New Orleanians.
The most visited altar is
dedicated to St. Jude, the “patron
saint of hopeless causes,” but a
more light-hearted one stands to
the left of the exit; this is
Stained-glass window, Our Lady dedicated to New Orleans’ very
of Guadalupe own St. Expedite, whose name is
d Our Lady of not in any official dictionary of
saints. According to apocryphal
Guadalupe legend, a crate marked with the
word “Spedito!” (meaning “rush”)
411 N. Rampart St. Map 4 B2.
Tel 525-1551. @ 48, 46, 52, 57. arrived in the chapel one day.
Open 9am–5pm daily. 7 The statue inside it was removed
and mounted on the wall, and its
Renamed Our Lady of Guadalupe name was confused with the
in 1875, when it served an Italian word on the box. To this day,
congregation, St. Anthony’s New Orleanians visit the altar to Facade of Our Lady of Guadalupe, built in
Chapel was built on the outskirts pray for help when they need the 19th century
Storyville
From 1897 to 1917, the 38 blocks roughly the informal “Mayor” of Storyville. Many of the
bounded by Iberville, Basin, Robertson, and brothels were quite luxurious, furnished with
St. Louis streets were set aside as a legal red-light velvet drapes, gilt-framed paintings and leopard-
district (see p24). Saloons and high-class brothels skin fabrics. At No. 317 Basin Street, Countess
lined Basin Street, cheap bawdy houses clustered Willie Piazza held court. She regularly employed
along Dauphine, Burgundy, St. Louis, Conti, and pianist Jelly Roll Morton, who played behind
Bienville streets, while the poorest huts, called a screen, as did most musicians at these
cribs, were found along Rampart and Iberville establishments, so they were not able to observe
streets. Names and addresses of 700 prostitutes the patrons. The district was officially closed in
were listed in the Blue Book, which was available 1917 by the Navy Department (see p24). In the
at bars like the Annex, which was operated by 1940s, the Federal government leveled Storyville
state legislator and political boss Tom Anderson, to make way for low-income housing.
Mahogany Hall in Basin Street, one of Storyville’s notorious bordellos
082-083_EW_New_Orl.indd 83 05/08/16 3:49 pm
84 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
time accepted Boré contributed much to the
Protestants (although city’s prosperity as he was the
these graves were first to granulate sugar on a
later moved). There commercial scale in 1796.
are numerous Boré’s grandson, the historian
legendary local Charles Gayarré, is also buried
figures buried here, here, as is Paul Morphy (1837–
including Homer 84), the genius chess player
Adolph Plessy who was a world champion
(1862–1925), who at age 13 but who later went
challenged the mad. Most famous of all is
segregation laws in probably Marie Laveau (see box,
the 1890s (see p21); opposite), known as the
and Bernard de voodoo queen. Crowds visit
Marigny (1788–1871), her tomb (though some
who inherited the believe it is not the correct
sum of $7 million at one) to leave unusual voodoo
age 15 and “gifts” or mark it with X’s, which
squandered it playing symbolizes a request that she
craps (dice), the grant a particular wish. A more
Poignant statue atop an above-ground tomb at game he introduced recent figure is Ernest “Dutch”
St. Louis Cemetery #1 to the United States Morial (1929–1989), the first
(see p104). Daniel
f St. Louis Clark (1766–1813), the black mayor and the
father of another former
Cemetery #1 wealthy Irish merchant who mayor, Marc Morial.
challenged Governor The largest tomb
Basin St between St. Louis and Conti.
Map 4 B2. Tel 482-5065. @ 48, 46, Claiborne (see p19) to a belongs to the
52, 57. Open 9am–3pm Mon–Sat, duel and wounded him in Société Française
9am–noon Sun. 7 8 the leg, lies here, along de Bien faisance,
with his daughter Myra which contains an
This cemetery opened in 1789 Clark Gaines (1803–85). overwhelming 70
and is the oldest in the city. She fought for 65 years vaults. The tallest
Because of its age, it is one of to secure her father’s monument, sculpted
the most fascinating to visit. estate, in a case by Pietro Gualdi in
By 1829, St. Louis #1 was that generated 1857 for $40,000,
already filled, mostly with 8,000 pages of court A beseeching angel belongs to the Italian
victims of yellow fever. Today, documents. Jean Society. It was the
the narrow alleyways are full Etienne Boré (1741–1820), the background in the psychedelic
of maus oleums, many in plantation owner who was the scenes in the film Easy Rider. A
advanced stages of decay. city’s first post-colonial mayor, plaque memorializes Benjamin
Although Catholic, it at one is buried in a low brick vault. Henry Latrobe (see p74), the
architect who came to New
Orleans to build a waterworks
and died in 1820 of yellow
fever (see p20). No one knows
where his remains are. Many
bodies were moved from the
St. Louis Cemetery #1 in 1823
to Lafayette Cemetery (see
p104) and from there to
Metairie Cemetery (see p129) in
the 1950s. Somehow, Latrobe’s
body got lost in the shuffle.
Under rules set by the
Archdiocese of New Orleans,
all visitors to St. Louis Cemetery
#1 must be accompanied by a
licensed tour guide. Recom-
mended tours (see p194) are
given by the non-profit Save
Our Cemeteries organization,
and by New Orleans Tours, Inc.
Both provide plenty of
Ornate family mausoleums in St. Louis Cemetery #1 excellent local information.
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L OWER FRENCH QU AR TER , M ARIGN Y , AND TREME 85
Voodoo Worship
Voodoo arrived in New Orleans from Africa, via the Caribbean,
where it originated as a form of ancestor worship among the
West African tribes who were brought to North America as
slaves. With the revolution in Saint Domingue in 1793, slaves
and free people of color arrived as refugees and increased the
practice in the city. Voodoo enabled those slaves to preserve
their African culture and roots alongside the Roman Catholic
religion, for it mixed both traditions. The most famous of all
19th-century voodoo leaders was Marie Laveau (c.1794–1881),
a mulatto and a great marketer. She used such Catholic
elements as prayer, incense, and saints in her rituals, which she
opened to the public for an admission fee. The high point of
the voodoo calendar was the celebration she held along the
Bayou St. John on St. John’s Eve. She is believed to be buried
at St. Louis Cemetery #1. Portrait of Marie Laveau
by the tombs in Paris’s Père the cemetery office, the Barelli
Lachaise Cemetery. Grand in tomb recalls the tragedy that
design and scale, and modeled occurred on November 15,
on Greek, Egyptian, and other 1849, when the steamer
Classical styles, the Louisiana exploded, killing 86
patterns for these people, including the young
ambitious mausoleums son of Joseph Barelli, who
became very popular in New erected the memorial in 1856.
Orleans. The tombs are like Five sculpted angels hover
impressive residences, around the tomb and a bas-
often enclosed within relief depicts the explosion.
beautiful wrought-iron A common legend says that
gates, featuring such Napoleon Bonaparte’s followers
motifs as lyres, winged were waiting for his arrival in
hourglasses, hearts, New Orleans from his exile in
inverted torches, and St. Helena, but since he died
The Barelli tomb urns with arrows. The fences beforehand on December 20,
around the tombs are some of 1821, a funeral service for him
g St. Louis the finest wrought-iron work was held here.
Cemetery #2 in the city. The intricate immort- Guided tours, available from
elles made of wire, beads, several organizations (see p194),
Iberville to St Louis St, between N and glass are also unique and will help visitors get the most
Claiborne Ave and N Robertson St. represent ever lasting tributes out of their time at this
Map 4 B1. Tel 482-5065. @ 48, 46, to the dead. fascinating site.
52, 57. Open 9am–3pm Mon–Sat, Among the notables buried
9am–noon Sun. 7 8 here are General Jean Baptiste
Plauché, who fought with
By the end of the colonial Andrew Jackson at the
period, and mostly because Battle of New Orleans
of a devastating series of (see p19). J. N. B. DePouilly
epidemics, this cemetery himself is humbly buried in
was established as the a modest wall vault with
natural extension of his brother, who was also
St. Louis Cemetery #1 an architect. Other famous
around 1823. The final New Orleans figures
resting place for much buried here include
of New Orleans’ jazz musician Danny
19th-century Creole Barker, and the pirate
aristocracy, it Dominique You
contains remarkably Tree-shaped statue (see p19), who rests
ornate mausoleums. in the main aisle in
Many of them were designed a tomb marked with a Masonic
by Jacques Nicholas Bussière emblem and the inscription:
De Pouilly, who arrived in New “This New Bayard could have
Orleans from France in the witnessed the end of the world Creole family mausoleum, fallen
1830s. His plans were inspired without fear or trembling.” Near into disrepair
084-085_EW_New_Orl.indd 85 05/08/16 3:49 pm
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NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA 87
WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL
BUSINESS DISTRICTS
When the Americans arrived after the commercial and residential district that
Louisiana Purchase (see p19), they matched the Creole district downriver.
developed a community of their own Today, the CBD incor porates narrow streets
on the upriver side of Canal Street. It was lined with Victorian warehouses, banks,
called the Faubourg St. Mary and extended and office buildings, as well as such broad
from Canal Street to Louisiana Avenue. thoroughfares as Poydras, which is lined
Between 1820 and 1860, the waterfront with sky scrapers belonging to oil companies,
was developed, and behind it grew a hotels, and financial institutions.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Churches Restaurants see pp176–7
9 Custom House/ 0 St. Patrick’s Church 1 Acme Oyster House
Audubon Insectarium Parks and Squares 2 Bourbon House
q Gallier Hall 3 Café Adelaide
t Ogden Museum of 1 Woldenberg Riverfront Park 4 Capdeville
Southern Art 3 Spanish Plaza 5 Cochon
y Confederate Memorial Hall r Lee Circle 6 Compere Lapin
u New Orleans Contemporary Boat Trips 7 Domenica
Arts Center 8 Drago’s
i Louisiana Children’s Museum 2 Ferry to Algiers 9 Emeril’s
o The National WWII Museum 10 Herbsaint
11 Mother’s
Shopping Areas 12 Palace Café
4 The Outlet Collection 13 Restaurant August
at Riverwalk 14 Rock-n-Sake
8 Canal Place 15 Ruby Slipper Café
S ROBERTSON STREET N VILLERE STREET 16 Sac-a-lait
Entertainment TREME STREET 17 Willa Jean
LASALLE ST
6 Harrah’s Casino S VILLERE ST LIBERTY ST BASIN
ST
7 Audubon Aquarium of TULANE AVENUE ST CROZAT IBERVILLE STREET
the Americas pp92–3 GRAVIER ST
CLEVELAND AVE
w Mercedes-Benz DAUPHINE ST
Superdome CLARA ST MAGNOLIA FRERET ST DUNCAN CANAL STREET
e Saenger Theatre STREET S ROBERTSON LASALLE STREET PLAZA S RAMPART STREET ROYAL ST
Landmarks ST PERDIDO ST BARONNE STREET CHARTRES ST
5 World Trade O ' K E E F E AV E N U E U N I O N S T C O M M O N S T R E E T DECATUR ST
LOYOLA AVENUE CARROLL ST
Center PENN ST GRAVIER ST N. PETERS ST
CARONDELET ST REET
GIROD ST P O Y D R A S S T R E E T
NATCHEZ ST
LAFAYETTE
Union S RAMPART ST S T. C H A R L E S A V E N U E PL. DE FRANCE
SQUARE
BARONNE STREET
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
Station O'K EEFE AVENUE LAFAYETTE ST CAMP STREET M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T S PE TERS ST
GIROD STREET
COMMERCE ST
JULIA STREET
HOWARD AVENUE
ST. JOSEPH ST
LEE CONSTANCE ST NOTRE DAME ST FULTON STREET
C I R C L E POEYFARRE ST N DIAMOND ST C O N VE N T I O N C E N T E R B LV D M i s s i s s i p p i
ANDREW HIGGINS ST
POE
ST
JOHN CH U RCHILL CHASE ST
P O N T C H A R T R A I N E X P R E S S W A Y
GAIENNIE ST
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
CALLIOPE ST
See also Street Finder maps THALIA ST CRESCENT CITY
CONNECTION
4, 5, & 8
Bas-relief on the facade of Gallier Hall For keys to symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_New_Orl.indd 87 05/08/16 3:56 pm
88 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
Street-by-Street: CBD
When the Americans arrived from the North in the early 1800s,
they developed the uptown side of Canal Street. It is still the
city’s commercial area, where the headquarters of oil, energy,
and banking corporations and many public institutions are
located. The median running through the middle of Canal
Street was the neutral ground separating the English-speaking
Americans from the French-speaking Creole community.
Today, Canal Street is lined with hotels, restaurants, and stores.
A casino and the ferry to Algiers are located at the riverfront end.
During the last three decades, the riverfront has been totally 6 Harrah’s Casino
This enormous casino, with its
redeveloped with parks, walks, and such major attractions as garish over-the-top decor, is open
the Aquarium and the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk. 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
5 World Trade Center
Built in the shape of a Greek
cross, this 1960s skyscraper
towers over the river, port,
and Warehouse District. TCHOUPITOULAS STREET
4 The Outlet Collection
at Riverwalk
Containing more than
120 stores, including a
huge food court, this
is one of the largest
malls in the city.
2 Ferry to Algiers
A ferry takes visitors across the
Mississippi to Algiers.
3 Spanish Plaza Mississippi river
Located next to the Outlet Collection at . River Cruises
Riverwalk, this plaza was dedicated by The Creole Queen
Spain to the City of New Orleans in 1976. paddlewheeler offers
It has a beautiful fountain at its center. narrated tours of the
New Orleans riverfront
(see p213).
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W AREHOUSE AND CENTR AL BUSINESS DISTRIC T S 89
8 Canal Place
UPPER
The city’s most upscale FRENCH
shopping mall features big QUARTER
names such as Saks, Gucci, WAREHOUSE
and Williams-Sonoma. There DISTRICT M i s s i s s ippi
& CBD
is also a theater and a cinema
on the third floor.
GARDEN
DISTRICT
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 4, 5, & 8
N A T C H E Z S T R E E T 0 meters 100 100
0 yards
CAMP STREET
G R A V I E R S T R E E T
C O M M O N S T
TCHOUPITOULAS STREET
M A G A Z I N E S T
C A N A L S T
7 . Audubon Aquarium
of the Americas
Marine life sculptures by Ida
Kohlmeyer are at the entrance.
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
1 Woldenberg
Riverfront Park
Named for local
businessman Malcolm
Woldenberg, the park
contains a charming
statue of Woldenberg,
but the most notable
sculpture is the 16-ft
(5-m) tall kinetic steel
Ocean Song, by
John Scott.
Mississippi river
Key
Suggested route
088-089_EW_New_Orl.indd 89 05/08/16 3:49 pm
90 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
The courthouse is also the
setting for much of the Old
Algiers RiverFest, a weekend-
long festival celebrating
the role of the area in the
development of jazz. Visitors
can enjoy great live music,
various arts and crafts, and
sample typical New Orleans
cuisine. The festival takes place
in April each year.
3 Spanish Plaza
2 Canal St. Map 5 D4. v Riverfront.
@ 3, 55, 57. Open 24 hrs daily.
- 0 =
This small plaza at the entrance
River view from the Woldenberg Riverfront Park to the Outlet Collection at
1 Woldenberg century, it was used as a depot Riverwalk is a good place to
take a rest and enjoy an
Riverfront Park for imported slaves, who were uninterrupted view of the river.
held here before being sold on. A fountain stands at its center,
2 Canal St. Map 5 D3. v Riverfront.
@ 3, 55, 57. 7 It is possible that Algiers is the surrounded by a circular mosaic
site of the origins of jazz, as bench on which the coats of
The 16-acre Woldenberg Park single-line melodies were arms of Spain are depicted.
extends all the way along probably used by the slaves to The Creole Queen paddle-
the riverfront from St. Peter communicate and to comfort wheeler departs from the
Street to the Outlet Collection themselves and their families. Plaza and takes passengers
at Riverwalk, providing a The area was not connected downriver to the Chalmette
pleasant garden setting directly to the rest of the city Battlefield Park, the site of
studded with contemporary until a bridge was built in the Andrew Jackson’s victory at the
sculpture. From Jackson late 1950s, so it has a separate, Battle of New Orleans (see p19).
Square, visitors can access small-town feel. It has beautiful Rangers provide a 40-minute
Woldenberg Riverfront Park late-Victorian churches, homes, tour of the site. Adjacent to
via Washington Artillery Park parks, and businesses, and at the battlefield is Chalmette
and the Moon Walk. Here, the heart is the Romanesque National Cemetery, where
many of the city’s street Revival-style Algiers Courthouse thousands of Union soldiers
performers can be found; the dating from 1896, which can be are buried. An antebellum
latter is named after Moon seen from the French Quarter house, the Malus-Beauregard
Landrieu, who is widely across the river. It continues home, stands on park property.
regarded as paving the way for to serve the residents of the This residence was built in
the first black mayor, “Dutch” entire city as a courthouse, 1833 and purchased in 1880
Morial, to be elected in 1978 and is home to various by the son of General P. G. T.
(see p25). The park is open municipal offices. Beauregard (see p73).
from dawn till dusk daily.
2 Ferry to Algiers
The ferry is at the end of Canal St.
Map 5 D4. v Riverfront. @ 55, 57.
∑ friendsoftheferry.org
From the foot of Canal Street, a
free ferry crosses the Mississippi
to the historic neighborhood
of Algiers on the West Bank,
offering spectacular views
of the New Orleans skyline
on the short journey.
Algiers was established in
1719 and is the second oldest
part of the city. For over a Fountain at the center of the Spanish Plaza
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W AREHOUSE AND CENTR AL BUSINESS DISTRIC T S 91
consulates. Architecturally, it has
little to recommend it; however,
being built in the shape of
a Greek cross, it serves as a
useful landmark.
Currently, the building is mostly
vacant. The City of New Orleans,
as its owner, is exploring ways to
redevelop the building to take
advantage of its prime location
at the foot of Canal Street.
6 Harrah’s Casino
Entrance to the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk
228 Poydras St. Map 5 D4. Tel 533-
4 Outlet Collection alongside the marketplace, 6000. v Riverfront. @ 3, 57, 65.
at Riverwalk the most notable being those Open 24 hrs daily. = 0
∑ harrahsneworleans.com
operated by the Delta Queen
1 Poydras St. Map 5 D4.
Tel 522-1555. v Riverfront. Steamboat Company, which This casino is close to the
@ 3, 55, 57, 65. was established in 1890. riverfront, just a block away
Open 10am–9pm Mon–Sat, A number of information from the Mississippi River. It
10am–7pm Sun. 0 = - plaques attached to railings is the only land-based casino
∑ riverwalkneworleans.com along the walkway describe offering table games in the
everything from the types of state. Covering 100,000 sq ft
This massive riverside shopping boats plying their trade on (9,290 sq m) of floor space,
mall, designed by the same the river to the seagulls Harrah’s offers a vast
company that developed that drift up from the ballroom in addition
Boston’s Faneuil Hall, contains Gulf of Mexico. to a wide range of
more than 140 stores, including games, including
brand-name favorites like Ann 2,900 slot machines
Taylor, Brookstone, Nine West, 5 World and 117 table games
and Gap. The entire top floor Trade Center featuring classics such
is the food court, selling a as baccarat, blackjack,
variety of cuisines, while a 2 Canal St. Map 5 D4. craps, and roulette.
highlight of the ground Tel 529-1601. Masquerade is
floor is the Creole Delicacies v Riverfront. @ 57, 65. a state-of-the-art
Gourmet Shop, which offers a ∑ wtcno.org entertainment venue
2-hour course in cooking. Riverside view of set at the heart of the
In addition to shopping The World Trade the WTC Building casino. It features a
opportunities, the mall has Center building was four-story tower
an outdoor walkway that runs designed by Edward Durrell surrounded by a stage for the
along the Mississippi River, Stone in the 1960s. Originally free nightly shows starring
giving visitors one of the best called the International Trade go-go dancers and some of
views of the river and river Mart Building, it housed the the nation’s top DJs . There is
traffic in the city. International head quarters of various also an ice-topped bar and
and other cruise ships dock mercantile companies and exclusive VIP lounge area.
The modern and lively Harrah’s, a popular New Orleans casino
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7 Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
Ranked as one of the top five aquariums in the United States, the
collection at the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas spans the
underwater world from the Caribbean to the Amazon Rainforest,
to the waters that give New Orleans its lifeblood – the Mississippi
River and Gulf of Mexico. The complex features some 500 species
of marine life, with highlights that include a tank containing a
Caribbean reef, and a replica of an oil rig.
Seahorses
The Seahorse Gallery
features a collection of
creatures raised here at
the aquarium.
The Amazon Rainforest
Piranhas lurk in the
waters that flow under
the forest canopy, which
is inhabited
by tropical birds and
wild orchids.
Main entrance and
informa tion center
. The Great
Maya Reef
In this clear tunnel
beneath creatures of
all shapes and sizes,
visitors can imagine
themselves
immersed in a Jellyfish
submerged Maya city These transparent, fluid creatures sway and
of ruins, surrounded dance in eight specially designed exhibits,
by exotic sea life. some of the aquarium’s most colorful.
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. Backstage VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Penguin Pass
This private pass Practical Information
allows visitors to Canal St at Mississippi River.
get up-close with Map 5 D3. Tel 581-4629.
endangered African Open 10am–5pm daily.
penguins and gives Closed Dec 24 and 25,
them the opportunity Thanksgiving, Mardi Gras. &
for a hands-on 7 8 0 =
experience on how
to look after them. Transport
v Riverfront. @ 5, 55, 57.
Geaux Fish
An interactive exhibit that
showcases Louisiana’s
fishing industry.
Sea Otter Gallery
Lovable sea otters
frolic in this exhibit
where a waterfall
creates waves for
their amusement.
KEY
1 Gift shop
2 Food court with several different
kinds of restaurants.
3 The Great Maya Reef exhibit
allows visitors to walk through
a long tunnel into the ruins of a
submerged Mayan city.
. The Mississippi River and Delta Habitat 4 The Entergy Giant Screen
Check out the blue-eyed, white alligator that hangs Theater adds a high-tech dimension.
suspended in the water along with some other The screen is 5 ½ stories high.
Mississippi regulars – catfish, gar, and turtles.
The impressive interior of St. Patrick’s Church
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96 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
glass ceiling with a decorative
stained-glass border and a
skylight above. Juno and Mercury
embellish the capitals of the
marble columns that support
the structure. Over the years, the
building has served as a post
office, armory, and prison.
0 St. Patrick’s
Church
724 Camp St. Map 4 C4. Tel 525-
4413. @ 11, 41. v St. Charles.
Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri. 7 8
∑ oldstpatricks.org
Main entrance to Canal Place and its many luxury stores
Old St Patrick’s Church was
8 Canal Place termites, butterflies, and completed in 1841 to minister
roaches. Two of the highlights to the Irish Catholic population
Canal and N Peters sts. Map 4 C3.
@ 5. v Canal. Open 10am–7pm are the cooking show, which at the urging of Father James
Mon–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat, noon–7pm illustrates the art of cooking Ignatius Mullon. The brothers
Sun. 7 = - 0 with insects, and Metamorphosis, Charles and James Dakin were
∑ theshopsatcanalplace.com a lab where visitors can observe the original architects, but
insect court ship, mating, and James Gallier, Sr. replaced them.
Downtown’s most upscale life cycles. It is an impressive church with
shopping mall is anchored by Alexander Thompson Wood a 185-ft (60-m) high tower, a
Saks Fifth Avenue, and contains was the original architect of the Gothic-inspired interior, and
stores such as Brooks Brothers, Custom House, though he was splendid stained-glass vaulting
Williams-Sonoma, Anthropologie, succeeded by James Dakin, in the sanctuary.
Banana Republic, and Coach. Confederate General Beauregard Behind the altar are three
The third floor features the food (see p73), and Thomas K. Wharton. paintings by the French
court, plus the only downtown Construction began in 1847 and artist Leon Pomarede. At the
cinema that shows foreign, art- was completed in 1881. center is a copy of Raphael’s
house, and independent films. Inside, the Marble Hall is a Transfiguration of Christ, flanked
The mall also houses the dramatic space under a ground- by St. Patrick Baptizing the Irish
Theaters at Canal Place, Princesses and Christ
an upscale cinema that Walking on Water. Each
offers the latest block- of these works dates to
buster films and the 1841. Although the Irish
option to dine while community has largely
watching. There are moved away from
spectacular views of the the neighborhood,
Mississippi River from the congregation still
the fourth floor. draws loyal followers
from other districts.
9 Custom Father Mullon is still
House/ remembered as an
ardent Confederate.
Audubon He prayed publicly for a
Insectarium Confederate victory, and
when General Benjamin
423 Canal St. Map 4 C3. “Beast” Butler (see p20)
@ 5. v Canal. Audubon accused him of refusing
Insectarium: Tel 861-2537. to bury a Union soldier,
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ auduboninstitute.org/ he volunteered that he
visit/insectarium would be “very happy to
bury them all.” At noon
This architectural land- on St. Patrick’s Day, a
mark is home to the mass is attended by
Audubon Insectarium, most Catholics as
a state-of-the-art inter- an important part of
active museum with the festivities held all
fascinating displays of The impressive tower of St. Patrick’s Church over the city.
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The building faces Lafayette In September 2006, the
Square, which was laid out in Superdome reopened after a
1788 as Place Gravier, and $193 million restoration.
renamed in 1824. The square As the world’s largest steel-
contains statues of statesman constructed stadium that is
Benjamin Franklin by Hiram unobstructed by posts, it has
Powers, and famed Senator hosted the Super Bowl more
Henry Clay by Joel T. Hart. times than any other facility:
John McDonogh, the great Super Bowl XXXVI in 2002 was
benefactor of the New Orleans the sixth to be held here.
public schools, is remembered The Smoothie King Center,
with a statue by Atallio Piccirilli. the “babydome,” opened in
Today, the building is a popular 1999. In 2002, the Charlotte,
Greek Revival-style facade of Gallier Hall, vantage point during the North Carolina, Hornets
built in the 19th century famous Mardi Gras parades professional basketball team
(see pp30–31). moved to New Orleans,
q Gallier Hall became the home team,
545 St. Charles Ave. Map 4 B4. Tel 658- w Mercedes-Benz and were renamed the New
3627. v St. Charles. Open for tours Superdome Orleans Pelicans. The arena is
only: 10am, 11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm. also home to the Tulane
∑ nola.gov/gallier-hall/ Sugar Bowl Drive. Map 4 A3. University basket ball team.
Tel 587-3663. @ 16. v St.Charles.
James Gallier, Sr.’s master piece Open for sporting events only. 7 &
was built between 1845 and ∑ mbsuperbowl.com Smoothie e Saenger Theatre
1853, at a cost of $342,000. King Center: 1501 Girod St. Map 4 A3. 143 N Rampart St. Map 4 B2.
Con structed of bricks that were Tel 587-3663. ∑ smoothieking Tel 525-1052. @ 3, 41. v St. Charles.
plastered and scored to look center.com ∑ saengernola.com
like stone, the building is 215 ft
(65.5 m) deep, extending This flying saucer-shaped This beautiful Italian Renaissance
behind a facade only 90 ft landmark is home to local football theater opened in 1927 as a
(27 m) wide. Six fluted Ionic teams the Saints and Tulane cinema. Designed by Emile Weil,
columns support the tymp- University’s Green Wave. It is it features an elegant mezzanine
anum on the facade, which is also the venue for the annual and towering arcade, while the
decorated with bas-reliefs of Sugar Bowl, and other sports main theater space is made to
Justice and Commerce created and entertainment events. It look like the courtyard of an
by Robert A. Launitz. was built between 1971 and Italian villa, with archways and
Gallier Hall was built to serve 1975; it occupies 52 acres, statuary decorating the walls.
as the headquarters of the and stands 27 stories high. The ceiling is accented by some
Second Municipality when the The Superdome has become 150 tiny lights, which resemble
city was briefly served by three synonymous with the suffering stars in the night sky. Heavily
separate governments. In 1852, of those affected by Hurricane damaged by the flood of 2005,
it became City Hall, when the Katrina. It was here that many the Saenger sat empty for years.
three were reunited. Many great thousands sought refuge from New owners have returned this
historical figures have lain in the flood waters. The building land mark building to its former
state here, including Jefferson was severely damaged by wind, glory, and the theater re-opened
Davis, president of the Confed- flooding, and the frustrations of in 2013 to host touring
eracy, and General Beauregard. the desperate people it harbored. Broadway shows.
The Mercedes-Benz Superdome, one of the world’s largest indoor stadiums
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98 NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA
by native-born Henry Hobson
Richardson in 1888. This
architectural masterpiece, with
its splendid wood-paneled
rotunda, is incorporated into
the very contemporary Goldring
Hall. These two structures are
designed to wrap around the
Confed erate Memorial Hall, so
that the complex fronts both
Camp Street and Lee Circle.
The museum contains works
from the 18th to the 21st century,
and portrays the diversity of
urban and rural life in the South
from the Depression to the
modern day. The collection
includes works by William Henry
Buck, Clarence Millet, John
McCrady, George Dureau, Robert
Gordy, Clementine Hunter,
and Ida Kohlmeyer.
On Thursdays, the Ogden
After Hours features live
Memorial to Robert E. Lee at Lee Circle music, refreshments, and
special exhibits.
r Lee Circle War due to poor defenses and
an unwillingness to see the city
St. Charles Ave and Howard Ave. Map 4 y Confederate
B5. @ 11, 41. v St. Charles. 7 burned down.
Memorial Hall
The towering 60-ft (18-m) t Ogden Museum 929 Camp St at Howard Ave.
column at the center of Lee Map 4 B5. Tel 523-4522. @ 11, 41.
Circle, topped by a 16-ft (5-m) of Southern Art v St. Charles. Open 10am–4pm
statue of Confederate general Camp St at Howard Ave. Map 4 B5. Tue–Sat. Closed major holidays. &
Robert E. Lee, is one of the Tel 539-9600. @ 11. v St. Charles. 8 ∑ confederatemuseum.com
city’s key landmarks. For many Open 10am–5pm Wed–Mon
years, the Lee Circle area was (to 8pm Thu). & 8 7 One of the oldest museums
merely a grubby intersection ∑ ogdenmuseum.org in the city, Confederate
favored by homeless people. Memorial Hall offers a moving
Since the 1990s, however, it Opened in 2003, this museum experience. The memorabilia
has become the anchor of is named for Roger H. Ogden, on display tell the often tragic,
an attractive and growing a philanthropist who donated personal stories of the many
museum district. The Ogden the core collection of some young men who fought in
Museum of Southern Art 1,200 works by more than 400 the Civil War. Some were
opens on to the circle and Southern artists. The museum teenagers, like Landon Creek,
the National WW II Museum is displays its artworks in a two- who had fought in seven
just a block away. Meanwhile, building complex connected battles and was wounded
these additions have boosted by a corridor gallery. The three times by the age of
the regeneration of existing Romanesque-style Howard 15. Several display cases
museums nearby, such as the Memorial Library was designed contain objects relating
New Orleans Contemporary
Arts Center and the Confed-
erate Memorial Hall.
The statue of Robert E. Lee is
one of three prominent tributes
to Confederate leaders in New
Orleans, the others being of
Jefferson Davis and Gen. P. G. T.
Beauregard, located in separate
parts of Mid-City. However, the
city was not an especially
staunch rebel stronghold. It was
evenly split over the secession
issue, and it fell early in the Civil The Howard Memorial Library, now part of the Ogden Museum
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this lively city.
Browse the shops, craft booths and market stalls of the French Market, ride the historic St. Charles Avenue
Streetcar or explore Creole history on Royal Street: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within
colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of New Orleans with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans:
- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a transport map, help you navigate
with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of New Orleans, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show in detail the Steamboat Natchez, Historic New Orleans Collection, St.
Louis Cathedral, Cabildo and Presbytère, Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, New Orleans Museum of Art and more
- Colour photographs of the colourful colonial architecture, parks and gardens, riverboats and streetcars,
and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Bourbon Street; Royal Street; Upper French Quarter; Lower French Quarter, Marigny and Treme; Warehouse and Central Business Districts; Garden District and Uptown; Mid-City; and sights beyond New Orleans
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the history of New Orleans, jazz scene, Mardi Gras, multicultural population, architecture and iconic ironwork, famous New Orleanians - including Louis Armstrong - and festivals and events
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus transport, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most
from your visit to New Orleans.
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