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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this lively city.

Browse the shops, craft booths and market stalls of the French Market, ride the historic St. Charles Avenue

Streetcar or explore Creole history on Royal Street: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within

colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of New Orleans with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a transport map, help you navigate

with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of New Orleans, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show in detail the Steamboat Natchez, Historic New Orleans Collection, St.

Louis Cathedral, Cabildo and Presbytère, Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, New Orleans Museum of Art and more
- Colour photographs of the colourful colonial architecture, parks and gardens, riverboats and streetcars,

and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Bourbon Street; Royal Street; Upper French Quarter; Lower French Quarter, Marigny and Treme; Warehouse and Central Business Districts; Garden District and Uptown; Mid-City; and sights beyond New Orleans
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the history of New Orleans, jazz scene, Mardi Gras, multicultural population, architecture and iconic ironwork, famous New Orleanians - including Louis Armstrong - and festivals and events
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus transport, visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most

from your visit to New Orleans.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-19 03:51:11

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this lively city.

Browse the shops, craft booths and market stalls of the French Market, ride the historic St. Charles Avenue

Streetcar or explore Creole history on Royal Street: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within

colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of New Orleans with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a transport map, help you navigate

with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of New Orleans, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show in detail the Steamboat Natchez, Historic New Orleans Collection, St.

Louis Cathedral, Cabildo and Presbytère, Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, New Orleans Museum of Art and more
- Colour photographs of the colourful colonial architecture, parks and gardens, riverboats and streetcars,

and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Bourbon Street; Royal Street; Upper French Quarter; Lower French Quarter, Marigny and Treme; Warehouse and Central Business Districts; Garden District and Uptown; Mid-City; and sights beyond New Orleans
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the history of New Orleans, jazz scene, Mardi Gras, multicultural population, architecture and iconic ironwork, famous New Orleanians - including Louis Armstrong - and festivals and events
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus transport, visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide New Orleans is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most

from your visit to New Orleans.

W AREHOUSE AND CENTR AL BUSINESS DISTRIC T S  99


to the occupation of the city
by General “Beast” Butler (see
p20), including the document
ordering that all women who
insulted Union officers, wore
Confederate colors, or sang
Southern songs, were to be
locked up as if they were
common prostitutes.
The museum also possesses
a large collection associated
with the Confederate president
Jefferson Davis, from his cradle
to his military boots. Several
interesting exhibits are devoted
to the black regiments, which
served on both sides during
the Civil War. The cypress hall Replica of one of the Higgins boats in The National WWII Museum
of the museum was originally i Louisiana o The National
constructed in 1891 as a
meeting place for Confederate Children’s Museum WWII Museum
veterans to reflect on their Civil 420 Julia St. Map 4 C5. Tel 523- 945 Magazine St and Howard
War experiences and to house 1357. @ 10, 11. v St. Charles. Ave. Map 4 C5. Tel 528-1944.
and protect their relics. Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, @ 11, 41. Open 9am–5pm daily.
noon–4:30pm Sun. Closed public Closed Thanks giving, Dec 24 and
hols. & 8 7 = ∑ lcm.org 25, Mardi Gras. & 8 7 -
∑ nationalww2 museum.org
This activity-oriented museum
allows children to entertain This museum honors the
themselves with a variety of veterans of World War II and
role-playing games, plus other celebrates New Orleans
interactive exhibits with a shipbuilder Andrew Higgins,
didactic focus. Kids can anchor who played a major role in
their own news show in the many events, including D-Day
TV studio, go shopping in the in June 1944 (see p24). More
Modern art bench, at the Contemporary supermarket, or pilot their own than 20,000 of Higgins’s crafts
Arts Center tugboat, and there is an area were deployed in US landings
u New Orleans designed specifically for one- on all fronts during the war,
to three-year-olds. One of the
from North Africa to the Pacific
Contemporary museum’s newest exhibits is a Islands. The museum is in
Arts Center child-sized replica of the Port the middle of a $300-million
of New Orleans. expansion that will quadruple
900 Camp St. Map 4 C5. Tel 528-3805. its original size by 2015.
@ 11. v St. Charles. Open 11am– Its state-of-the-art
5pm Wed–Mon. Closed public hols. Solomon Victory
& 8 7 ∑ cacno.org
Theater, opened in
2009 as part of this
This warehouse-style center expansion, uses a
is the city’s premier space for 120-ft (36-m) screen,
all of the contemporary arts, moving props, and
from dance, painting, film, rattling seats to
and video, to performance immerse viewers in
art, theater, and music. The the war experience.
museum combines the original In the Restoration
structure with modern designs Pavilion, visitors can
to its full advantage, presenting watch as staff refurbish
a unique, modern space mostly a range of World War II
illuminated with natural light artifacts that will join
that houses four galleries and the museum’s growing
two theaters. The rotating collection of planes,
shows in the galleries usually tanks, and boats. Future
remain for four to eight halls will focus on each
weeks. There is also a café The Louisiana Children’s Museum, playground for branch of the US
providing coffee and snacks. children of all ages military service.



098-099_EW_New_Orl.indd 99 05/08/16 3:49 pm

The impressive Tudor-Gothic facade of Loyola University
355 yards
355 yards
B R O A D W A Y
S CARROLLTON AVE WILLOW STREET B R O A D W A Y A U D U B O N B LV D SOUTH CLAIBOR NE AVENUE P O N T CHAR T
S CARROLLTON AVE
A U D U B O N B LV D
S OUTH CLA IBORNE AVENUE
A D AM S S T RE ET
A D AM S S T RE ET
WILLOW STREET
SIMON BOLIVAR ST
C A L H O U N S T R E E T
LOWERLINE STREET
RIVERBENDT
RIVERBEND C A L H O U N S T R E E T S OUTH CLA IBORNE AVENUE J A C K S O N MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD
WILLOW STREET
ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BLVD
SOUTH CLAIBOR NE AVENUE
J A C K S O N
ERATO
P O N T CHAR T R A I N E X P R E S S WAY
SIMON BOLIVAR ST R A I N E X P R E S S WAY
LOWERLINE STREE WILLOW STREET A V E N U E ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BLVD ERATO
LEVEE WI L LOW STREET A.L. DA
LEVEE
A.L. DAVISVIS
MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD
PARK PARK DOMINICAN STREET WILLOW STREET WASHINGTON AVE PLA PLAYGROUNDYGROUND FELICITY STREET STREET
WILLOW STREET
WI L LOW STREET
STREET
L A SELLE STREET
LAUREL STREET
LAUREL STREET
UNIVERSITY S O N A V E N U E L A SELLE STREET THI McMURRA A V E N U E ME MEL P O MENE STREET
FELICITY STREET
DOMINICAN STREET
VAN
VAN
S T. CHARLES AVEN U E
McMURRAYY
PRYTANIA STREET L P O MENE STREET
WASHINGTON AVE
PARK
PARK
B R O A D W A Y UNIVERSITY J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E SONIAT STREET SONIAT STREET FRERET STREET LOUISIANA AVENUE LAF ST. JOSEPH THIRD STREET PRYTANIA STREET COLISEUM EUTERPE STREET
B R O A D W A Y
COLISEUM
FRE R ET STREET
FRE R ET STREET
JOSEPHINE STREET
JOSEPHINE STREET
FRERET STREET
PARK
CEMETER
CEMETERYY
PARKEUTERPE
STREET
LAFAYETTEAYETTE
CEMETER
CEMETERYY
DISTRICT
J E F F E R PLAYGROUND PLAYGROUND NUMBER 2 S T. CHARLES AVEN U E
DISTRICT
NUMBER 2
ST. JOSEPH RD STREET
N A P O
N A P O
SQUARE
SAMUEL L
PLAYGROUND
SARATOGA G
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
AUDUBON
AUDUBON ST. CHARLES AVEN UE U P P E R L I N E S T R E E T U P P E R L I N E S T R E E T FOUCHER STREET ST ANDREW STREET
LOUISIANA AVENUE
CALHOUN STREET WEBSTER STREET STATE STREET STATE STREET JOSEPH STREET JOSEPH STREET PRYTANIA STREET T MARENGO STREE MONTIERO A N N U
CALHOUN STREET
M A G A Z I N E S T
PARK PARK DANNEEL STREET DRYADES STREET SEVENTH STREET F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T
M A G A Z I N E S T
GENERAL PERSHING STREE
WEBSTER STREET
DRYADES STREET
DANNEEL STREET T
GENERAL PERSHING STREET
ST ANDREW STREET
FOUCHER STREET
A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T
G
G AR DE NAR DE N
SEVENTH STREET
F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T
M i s s i s s i p p i
D IS T R IC TIS T R IC T
D
ST. CHARLES AVEN UE
PR Y TANIA ST REET
PR Y TANIA ST REET
SQUARE E O N A V E N U E
SAMUEL L E O N A V E N U E
MONTIERO
J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E VALMONT STREET VALMONT STREET DUFOSSAT STREET DUFOSSAT STREET VALENCE STREET M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T LOUISIAN
PARK
PARK
MARENGO STREE
PRYTANIA STREET T
J A C K S O N A V E N U E
J A C K S O N A V E N U E
FIRST STREE
FIRST STREE
BURKE T
PLAYGROUND E N E R A L T A Y LO R S T R E E T
SARATOGA G E N E R A L T A Y LO R S T R E E T
PARK
PARK
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
LAWRENCE
BRIGNAC
LAWRENCE
SQUARE
SQUARE
PARK
PARK
IRISH
IRISH
WASHINGTON AVE
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
WASHINGTON AVE
VALENCE STREET
LOUISIANA AVENUE
CHANNEL
LAUREL S TREET
LAUREL S TREET
LAUREL STREET
LAUREL STREET
LYONS
A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T
PARK
WISNER
RIVERVIEW WISNER A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T LYONS PARK
RIVERVIEW
CENTER
PARK PARK T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T CENTER
M
M
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
i s s i s s i p p i
i s s i s s i p p i
100-101_EW_New_Orl.indd 100 05/08/16 3:56 pm

NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA  101

GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN

In 1832, a residential quarter was established Anne. The area became known as the Garden
uptown on the former Livaudais Plantation. District because of the lush gardens that were
The land was subdivided and developed laid out around the mansions. Settlement
to create the city of Lafayette, which was continued across Uptown as New Orleans
incorporated into New Orleans in 1852. Here, annexed Jefferson City and Carrollton. Fears
between Jackson and Louisiana Avenues, were high that these architecturally and
and St. Charles Avenue and Magazine Street, historically significant neighborhoods would
wealthy merchants, planters, and bankers be damaged in the aftermath of Hurricane
built mansions in a variety of styles, ranging Katrina, but they were spared by the waters
from Greek Revival to Italianate and Queen and remain as beautiful as ever.
Sights at a Glance 6 Louise S. McGehee School Universities
7 Carroll-Crawford House
Historic Buildings 9 Toby’s Corner t Loyola University
3 Claiborne Cottage 0 Women’s Guild Opera House y Tulane University
4 Briggs-Staub House q Colonel Short’s Villa
5 Robinson House w Musson-Bell House Entertainment
e Brevard-Wisdom-Rice House o Audubon Park
r Payne-Strachan House p Audubon Zoo pp114–15
a Riverbend
Museums and Galleries
355 yards
355 yards 8 Mardi Gras World Landmarks
u Amistad Research Center 1 St. Charles Avenue
B R O A D W A Y
i Newcomb Art Museum
S CARROLLTON AVE
S CARROLLTON AVE B R O A D W A Y A U D U B O N B LV D SOUTH CLAIBOR NE AVENUE P O N T CHAR T R A I N E X P R E S S WAY
A U D U B O N B LV D
Streetcar pp106–107
S OUTH CLA IBORNE AVENUE
Cemeteries
A D AM S S T RE ET
A D AM S S T RE ET
P O N T CHAR T
WILLOW STREET
WILLOW STREET
SIMON BOLIVAR ST
C A L H O U N S T R E E T
2 Lafayette Cemetery
LOWERLINE STREET
RIVERBENDT
RIVERBEND C A L H O U N S T R E E T S OUTH CLA IBORNE AVENUE J A C K S O N MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD Restaurants see pp177–9
WILLOW STREET
ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BLVD
SOUTH CLAIBOR NE AVENUE
J A C K S O N
ERATO
2 Atchafalaya
SIMON BOLIVAR ST R A I N E X P R E S S WAY
LOWERLINE STREE WILLOW STREET A V E N U E ORETHA CASTLE HALEY BLVD ERATO 1 Apolline
A.L. DAVISVIS
LEVEE
LEVEE WI L LOW STREET A.L. DA 3 Café Reconcile
MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD
PARK PARK DOMINICAN STREET WILLOW STREET WASHINGTON AVE PLA PLAYGROUNDYGROUND FELICITY STREET STREET 4 Casamento’s
WILLOW STREET
STREET
WI L LOW STREET
L A SELLE STREET
LAUREL STREET
LAUREL STREET
UNIVERSITY S O N A V E N U E L A SELLE STREET THI McMURRA A V E N U E ME MEL P O MENE STREET 5 Charlie’s Steak House
VAN
DOMINICAN STREET
FELICITY STREET
6 Clancy’s
VAN
S T. CHARLES AVEN U E
McMURRAYY
PRYTANIA STREET L P O MENE STREET
WASHINGTON AVE
PARK
PARK
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y UNIVERSITY J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E SONIAT STREET SONIAT STREET FRERET STREET LOUISIANA AVENUE LAF ST. JOSEPH THIRD STREET PRYTANIA STREET COLISEUM EUTERPE STREET 7 Commander’s Palace
COLISEUM
FRE R ET STREET
FRE R ET STREET
FRERET STREET
JOSEPHINE STREET
JOSEPHINE STREET
PARK
CEMETERYY
CEMETER
8 Coquette
PARKEUTERPE
STREET
LAFAYETTEAYETTE
9 Dick & Jenny’s
CEMETER
CEMETERYY
DISTRICT
J E F F E R PLAYGROUND PLAYGROUND NUMBER 2 S T. CHARLES AVEN U E 10 Domilise’s
DISTRICT
ST. JOSEPH RD STREET
NUMBER 2
N A P O
N A P O
SQUARE
SAMUEL L
11 Emeril’s Delmonico
PLAYGROUND
SARATOGA G
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
AUDUBON
AUDUBON ST. CHARLES AVEN UE U P P E R L I N E S T R E E T U P P E R L I N E S T R E E T FOUCHER STREET ST ANDREW STREET 12 Gautreau’s
LOUISIANA AVENUE
CALHOUN STREET WEBSTER STREET STATE STREET STATE STREET JOSEPH STREET JOSEPH STREET PRYTANIA STREET T MARENGO STREE MONTIERO A N N U N C I A T I O N S
CALHOUN STREET
M A G A Z I N E S T
M A G A Z I N E S T
PARK PARK DANNEEL STREET DRYADES STREET SEVENTH STREET F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T 13 Guy’s Po-Boys
GENERAL PERSHING STREE
WEBSTER STREET
GENERAL PERSHING STREET
DRYADES STREET
DANNEEL STREET T
14 Ignatius
ST ANDREW STREET
FOUCHER STREET
A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T
G AR DE NAR DE N
G
SEVENTH STREET
F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T
16 Juan’s Flying Burrito
M i s s i s s i p p i
D
D IS T R IC TIS T R IC T
ST. CHARLES AVEN UE
17 Jung’s Golden Dragon
PR Y TANIA ST REET
PR Y TANIA ST REET
SAMUEL L E O N A V E N U E
SQUARE E O N A V E N U E
18 McClures Barebecue
MONTIERO
J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E J E F F E R S O N A V E N U E VALMONT STREET VALMONT STREET DUFOSSAT STREET DUFOSSAT STREET VALENCE STREET M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T LOUISIANA AVENUE BRIGNAC CHANNEL BURKE T
PARK
PARK
MARENGO STREE
J A C K S O N A V E N U E
PRYTANIA STREET T
J A C K S O N A V E N U E
FIRST STREE
FIRST STREE
BURKE T
PLAYGROUND E N E R A L T A Y LO R S T R E E T
SARATOGA G E N E R A L T A Y LO R S T R E E T
PARK
20 Pascal’s Manale
PARK
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
21 Patois
LAWRENCE
BRIGNAC
LAWRENCE
SQUARE
SQUARE
PARK
PARK
22 Sake Café
IRISH
IRISH
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
WASHINGTON AVE
WASHINGTON AVE
VALENCE STREET
23 Shaya
LOUISIANA AVENUE
CHANNEL
LAUREL S TREET
LAUREL S TREET
LAUREL STREET
LAUREL STREET
LYONS
A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T
25 Stein’s Deli
PARK
WISNER
RIVERVIEW
RIVERVIEW WISNER A N N U N C I A T I O N S T R E E T LYONS PARK 24 Slice
CENTER
PARK PARK T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T CENTER
M
M
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T 26 Surrey’s
27 Taqueria Corona
T C H O U P I T O U L A S S T R E E T
28 Upperline
i s s i s s i p p i
i s s i s s i p p i
0 meters 500
0 yards 500 See also Street Finder maps
6, 7, & 8
For keys to symbols see back flap
100-101_EW_New_Orl.indd 101 13/09/2016 14:54

102  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Garden District

When the Americans arrived in New Orleans, they settled
MID-CITY
upriver from the French Quarter. The plantations that QUARTER
FRENCH
lined St. Charles Avenue in the 1820s were sub divided WAREHOUSE
and the city of Lafayette established. It was incorporated DISTRICT
& CBD
into New Orleans in 1852. Today, this area is referred to as GARDEN DISTRICT
the Garden District, a residential neighborhood filled with AND UPTOWN
grand Victorian mansions built by wealthy city merchants M i ss is si pp i
and planters. The gardens, planted with magnolia, camellia,
sweet olive, jasmine, and azalea, are as stunning as the Locator Map
residences themselves. See Street Finder maps 6, 7, & 8




W A S H I N G T O N A V E N U E P R Y T A N I A S T R E E T















2 . Lafayette C O L I S E U M S T R E E T
Cemetery
Confederate General Harry
T. Hays and Samuel Jarvis Peters,
a wealthy 19th-century developer
of the Garden District, are buried 4 T H S T R E E T
in this cemetery, which often
appears in Anne Rice’s books.


Commander’s Palace
Excellent Creole food is the
specialty of this landmark
restaurant, one of the best
in the US (see p179).









q . Colonel Short’s Villa
Built in 1859 for Colonel Robert Short of
Kentucky and designed by Henry Howard,
the house has an exquisite morning glory
and cornstalk fence (see p41).




102-103_EW_New_Orl.indd 102 05/08/16 3:49 pm
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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

GARDEN DISTRIC T AND UPT OWN  103

3 Claiborne Cottage
This cottage was built in 1857 for the
daughter of the first American governor
of Louisiana. It has served as a school
and a convent.









4 Briggs-Staub House
This handsome Gothic Revival
mansion was designed by James
Gallier, Sr. in 1849.
0 meters 40
0 yards 40
S T. C H A R L E S A V E N U E
0 Women’s Guild Opera House
This Greek Revival mansion was
designed in 1858 by William Freret.

P R Y T A N I A S T R E E T








Women’s Guild
Opera House





3 R D S T R E E T










5 . Robinson House
One of the grandest residences in the
Garden District, Robinson House was built
between 1859 and 1865 for Virginia
tobacco merchant Walter Robinson.
w Musson-Bell House
This was the home of Michel
Musson, uncle of artist Edgar
Degas; an iron merchant added Key
the lacy galleries later. Suggested route




102-103_EW_New_Orl.indd 103 05/08/16 3:49 pm

104  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

1 St. Charles and ascended to a
Avenue Streetcar powerful position by
the time he was 30. He
See pp106–7. was one of the movers
and shakers who
2 Lafayette developed the area
above Canal Street,
Cemetery fashioning it into a
Second Municipality
1400 block of Washington Ave.
Map 7 F3. v St. Charles. @ 11, 14. comparable to the
Open 7am–2:30pm Mon–Fri, 7am– downtown Creole
noon Sat, 8am–4pm Sun. Closed community below
public hols. 8 ∑ lafayette Canal Street. It had its
cemetery.org own fashionable hotel,
the St. Charles, which
This walled cemetery was laid was equal to the St.
out in 1833 by Benjamin Louis and mirrored its
Buisson to accommodate the Creole counterpart
residents of the adjacent in other ways.
Garden District. The second One of the most
Protestant cemetery to open striking memorials in
in New Orleans, it is the resting this cemetery is the one
place of many German and built in 1852 to Greek columns, Claiborne Cottage
British Protestants, as well commemorate 3 Claiborne
as numerous Americans the Jefferson Fire
who had migrated here Company #22. It is Cottage
from the east coast. By embellished with a typical 2524 St. Charles Ave. Map 8 A3.
1840, it was full, mostly with pumper. In her book, v St. Charles. @ 11, 14.
yellow fever Interview with the Closed to the public.
victims, and Vampire, Anne
a new cemetery Rice often gives The history of this Greek Revival-
was needed. Angel statue at Lafayette her characters style cottage is disputed, but
Among the notables free rein to wander the plaque in front states that
buried here are Confederate around this cemetery. The it was built in 1857 for Louise
General Harry T. Hays and author herself staged a mock Claiborne, the daughter of the
Samuel Jarvis Peters (1801–85), burial here in 1995 to promote first governor of Louisiana.
an influential city politician and her book, Memnoch the Devil. She was married to Mandeville
land developer. A Canadian, The wall vaults were added Marigny, the youngest son of
Peters arrived in New Orleans to the cemetery in 1858. Bernard de Marigny (see p84),
who introduced dice to the
United States. His gambling
friends thought he resembled a
frog, and so he was nicknamed
“Le Crapaud,” after which the
game “craps” takes its name.
Some experts date the
house to 1860 and claim that
it was built for a Virginian,
James Dameron.
4 Briggs-Staub
House
2605 Prytania St. Map 7 F3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14.
Closed to the public.
A rarity in New Orleans, this
Gothic Revival home was built for
gambler Cuthbert Bullitt in 1849.
The Gothic style is uncommon
in this part of the city, because
many Protestant Americans
Above-ground vaults at Lafayette Cemetery claimed it reminded them of




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GARDEN DISTRIC T AND UPT OWN  105


a passenger elevator, and a
magnificent circular staircase.
It is one of the few houses in
the city to have a basement.
Since 1929, it has served
as a private school for girls.
The cafeteria was once a
stable, and the gym is a
refurbished carriage house.
Note the steep mansard roof
with its wrought-iron parapet
and the unique bull’s-eye
window on the facade.
The gardens contain some
magnificent magnolias and
Gothic arched windows, Briggs-Staub House ginger trees.
Roman Catholic France. After the city to have indoor plumbing. 7 Carroll-Crawford
James Gallier, Sr. had designed An unusual feature of this
the building, Bullitt refused to mansion is the curved portico. House
pay for it, perhaps because of a 1315 First St. Map 8 A3. v St. Charles.
gambling loss, and the house 6 Louise S. @ 11, 14. Closed to the public.
subsequently became the
property of Charles Briggs, an McGehee School This broadly proportioned
English insurance executive. house was designed by
2343 Prytania St. Map 8 A3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14. Samuel Jamison in 1869 for
Closed to the public. Joseph Carroll, a cotton
merchant from Virginia. The
James Freret designed this surrounding gardens include
elaborate French Second venerable live oaks and other
Empire home in 1872 for sugar lush plantings. A two-story
planter Bradish Johnson, for home with octagonal wings,
$100,000. Freret had recently the house is Italianate in
returned from Paris and was design with fine cast-iron
enamored of the École des galleries, made in New Orleans
Beaux-Arts, which is evident by Jacob Baumiller.
in this mansion’s Renaissance The original carriage house
Revival style. When it was can still be seen around the
built, the house incorporated corner on Chestnut Street.
all of the fashionable interior Jamison also constructed
design elements and an identical building at 1331
The second-floor galleries at conveniences of the day: a First Street for cordage dealer
Robinson House conservatory, a marble pantry, Joseph C. Morris.
5 Robinson House
1415 3rd St. Map 8 A3. v St. Charles.
@ 11, 14. Closed to the public.
One of the grandest and largest
residences in the Garden District,
this house was built for the
Virginia tobacco merchant,
Walter Robinson. Designed
by Henry Howard, it was built
between 1859 and 1865. The
galleries of this Italian-style villa
are supported with Doric
columns on the first floor and
Corinthian on the second.
Domenico Canova, a famous
European craftsman, was hired
to decorate the interior, which
boasts elaborate painted ceilings.
It was one of the first buildings in The ornate facade of the Carroll-Crawford House




104-105_EW_New_Orl.indd 105 05/08/16 3:49 pm

106  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

1 St. Charles Avenue Streetcar

For a slow-moving romance, take a ride on the St. Charles
Avenue Streetcar, which passes many of New Orleans’ most
famous landmarks. It was this type of streetcar that inspired
Tennessee Williams’s drama A Streetcar Named Desire. It travels
6.5 miles (10 km) from Canal Street through the Central
Business District, along tree-shaded St. Charles Avenue to
Carrollton Avenue. It began operating in 1835 under steam
power; in 1867 mule power took over, then, in 1893, it was
electrified. Due to electrical damage sustained during
Hurricane Katrina, the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar was out of
commission for more than two years. The return of its familiar Claiborne Cottage
green cars was greeted with delight by New Orleanians This classic raised cottage was
during the holiday season of 2007. built in 1857 for the daughter
of the first American Louisiana
governor (see p104).










Touro Synagogue
This building is named after Judah Touro,
who came to New Orleans from Newport,
Rhode Island, and donated the money for
its construction.

Lee Circle
This 60-ft
(18-m)- tall
Doric column
supports a
statue of
General Robert
E. Lee, looking
north (see p98).







KEY
1 A metal pole conducts power
from an overhead cable.
2 Windows open wide for a
fresh breeze.
3 The seats are made of slatted
polished wood with brass handles Christ Church
and can be reversed for the This bulding is one
return trip. of the few examples
4 Blinds protect against the sun. of Gothic Revival
style in the city.




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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

GARDEN DISTRIC T AND UPT OWN  107


St. Charles Avenue Sights 0 kilometers 2
1 Lafayette Square 0 mile 1
2 Lee Circle
3 Claiborne Cottage
4 Christ Church CANAL ST
5 The Columns St. Charles Avenue Union
Canal Streetcar
6 Touro Synagogue Streetcar Station POYDRAS STREET
7 St. Charles House CARROLLTON AVE 1
UPPERLINE STREET CLAIBOR NE AVENUE
8 The Latter ADAMS STREET PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRESSWAY
2
BROADWAY BLVD JACKSON AVENUE MAGAZINE ST
Public Library WILLO S OUTH MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD
CALHOUN ST FRERET STREET GENERAL TAYLOR STREET 5 WASHINGTON AVE FELICITY ST
AUDUBON W STREET
ST. CHARLES AVENUE
AUDUBON STATE STREET NAPOLEON AVENUE 4 3
PARK JEFFERSON AVENUE 7 LOUISIANA AVE
Key 8 6
Streetcar route MAGAZINE STREET




















St. Charles House
Dating from the 1850s, this house
may be the oldest on the street.













The Columns
Built for a wealthy
cigar manufacturer,
this imposing building
was used by director The Latter Public Library
Louis Malle as one of One of the most elegant library buildings, the
the sets for his movie Latter Public Library started life in 1907 as a private
Pretty Baby (1978). mansion and was donated to the city in the 1940s.
For keys to symbols see back flap


106-107_EW_New_Orl.indd 107 05/08/16 3:49 pm

108  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

0 Women’s Guild
can also wander through the
warehouses and view gigantic Opera House
decorative figures, made of 2504 Prytania St. Map 8 A3.
either fiberglass or Styrofoam Tel 899-1945. v St. Charles.
overlaid with papier-mâché. It @ 11, 14, 27. Open for tours
is also possible to climb on to by appointment only. & 8
the floats to get an idea of what
it is like to ride them. The cost William Freret designed the
of the floats is borne by the original Greek Revival section of
krewes themselves, with contri- this house in 1858 for a wealthy
butions from their members. merchant. In 1996, the house
was bequeathed to the Women’s
Guild of the New Orleans Opera
One of the impressive floats at Mardi 9 Toby’s Corner Association, and it is now used for
Gras World meetings and receptions. It also
2340 Prytania St. Map 8 A3. features some exhibits relating
8 Mardi Gras World v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27. to the history of opera in the city;
Closed to the public.
1380 Port of New Orleans Place. in the 19th century, New Orleans
Map 8 C3. Tel 475-2317. v Riverfront. Built around 1838, this house was a major opera center,
Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. & 8 was constructed for Thomas Toby although the original opera
= ∑ mardigrasworld.com and is believed to be the oldest house burned down in 1919.
residence in the Garden District. It is open to the public for
Blaine Kern is often called Toby was a native Philadelphian, guided tours for 20 or more
“Mr. Mardi Gras” because so who moved to New Orleans people with reservations.
many of the massive floats that and became a very successful
roll through the streets during wheelwright. He amassed a huge q Colonel
Carnival (see pp30–31) are fortune but lost it financing Sam
constructed here in the 20 Houston and the cause for Texas Short’s Villa
warehouse-dens of his company. independence from Mexico. It 1448 Fourth St. Map 7 F3.
A tour of Mardi Gras World was, in fact, his wife who paid for v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27.
begins with a short film showing the construction of the house. Closed to the public.
the floats in the parades and the Subsequently, Toby worked as a
stages of their production, from plantation manager until he died. Henry Howard designed this
the original drawings to the After the Civil War (see pp20–21), large Italian-style residence
manufacture of the final pieces. the house was foreclosed and sold in 1859 for native Kentuckian
Visitors are then free to don at auction for $5,000. Nowadays, Colonel Robert Short. The
some of the costumes that it is privately owned and closed veranda, with fine iron railings,
krewe members have worn in to the public. However, its facade extends around three sides
past parades. Many of these are is an impressive example of the of the house. An exquisite
very heavy and ornate. Visitors Greek Revival style. ironwork fence, incorporating
























The Women’s Guild Opera House, combining an octagonal tower and a Greek Revival main house




108-109_EW_New_Orl.indd 108 05/08/16 3:49 pm
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Date 12th July 2013
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GARDEN DISTRIC T AND UPT OWN  109


a morning glory and cornstalk Musson (1812–85), a successful support the galleries. The
motif, encloses the gardens (see and prominent Creole cotton second owners of the
pp40–41). The story goes that merchant and the New Orleans pro perty, the Clapp family,
the Colonel had it installed to postmaster (see p128). Musson added the hexagonal wing
please his wife. Unlike a similar had close ties with his extended in 1869. The gardens are
fence on Royal Street in the family, including his sister splendid and feature some
French Quarter (see p79), famous Celestine Musson Degas, who stunning camellias.
for its detailed ironwork, this lived in France. Celestine’s son, Anne Rice, who was born
one has not been painted and Edgar Degas, was to become in New Orleans and grew
shows its original colors. In one of the world’s great artists up in the Irish Channel, has
September 1863, the Union and a founder of the portrayed the city in many
troops seized the residence. It Impressionist movement. of her best selling Vampire
was returned to the family after After the Civil War, Degas Chronicles, which began with
the Civil War (see pp20–21). came to visit Louisiana but it the Interview with the Vampire,
Although closed to the public, is unlikely he ever saw this published in 1976. She and her
the famous cornstalk fence is house. The war had dealt husband, poet-scholar Stan
much visited. Musson’s fortunes a severe Rice, returned to New Orleans
blow and he sold the house in from San Francisco in 1988.
1869, moving his family to a Rice used this house as the
rented house on Esplanade setting for her book The
Avenue (see p128). Witching Hour (1990). Rice
spent her teenage years at
e Brevard-Wisdom- 2524 St. Charles Avenue,
which inspired much of her
Rice House novel Violin. The author has
restored several historic
1239 First St. Map 8 A3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27. buildings. After Stan died in
Closed to the public. 2003, Anne began to sell
her New Orleans properties.
Fans of the Gothic author
Anne Rice stop to gawk at r Payne-Strachan
the Brevard-Wisdom-Rice
House, where she lived from House
The famed cornstalk fence at Colonel 1989 to 2003. The house was 1134 First St. Map 8 A3.
Short’s Villa designed by James Calrow v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27.
for merchant Albert Hamilton Closed to the public.
w Musson-Bell Brevard in 1857 and cost This grand home was built in
$13,000, at the time a
House formidable sum. It is adorned the 1850s by Judge Jacob U.
with ornate ironwork, Payne, who brought slaves
1331 Third St. Map 8 A3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27. including a fence incorpo- from his plantation in Kentucky
Closed to the public. rating a charming rose motif, and had them construct it.
for which reason the house The two-story Greek Revival
This handsome Italianate villa is referred to as “Rosegate.” residence features Ionic
was built in 1853 for Michel Ionic and Corinthian columns columns on the first gallery
and Corinthian on the second.
The house passed to Payne’s
son-in-law, Charles Erasmus
Fenner, a close friend of
Jefferson Davis, United States
senator and president of the
Confederacy (see pp98–9).
Davis died here on December
6, 1889, in the first-floor
guest room.
A striking aspect of the
house is the sky-blue ceiling
in the gallery, the color having
been chosen in the belief that
it would keep winged insects
from nesting there and also
ward off evil spirits. In fact, many
homes in the neighbor hood
Musson-Bell House, in the Italianate style adhere to this superstition.
Oak trees in the scenic Audubon Park



108-109_EW_New_Orl.indd 109 05/08/16 3:49 pm

110-111_EW_New_Orleans.indd 110 13/08/14 2:09 pm

110-111_EW_New_Orleans.indd 111 13/08/14 2:09 pm

112  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

u Amistad
Roman Catholic Church, the
design of which was inspired Research Center
by Canterbury Cathedral in Tilton Hall, Tulane University.
the UK. Map 6 B3. Tel 862-3222.
The statue of Jesus with v St. Charles. @ 15, 22.
uplifted arms in front of Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri.
Marquette is referred to locally
as “Touchdown Jesus,” for This research center is named for
obvious reasons. the famous slave mutiny aboard
the Cuban slave ship Amistad in
1839. After a trial in Hartford,
y Tulane University Connecticut, the slaves were
acquitted and allowed to return
6823 St. Charles Ave. Map 6 B2.
Tel 865-5000. v St. Charles. @ 15, home. The American Missionary
22. Open 9am–5pm daily. 8 Association, an organization
formed to defend the slaves,
Founded in 1834 as a medical established the center’s archive,
college, the precursor of which moved to New Orleans in
A side window of the chapel at Tulane University was given 1969. It consists of documents,
Loyola University its present name in 1882 after photos, pamphlets, and oral
it received a substantial gift history records. A small gallery
t Loyola University from Paul Tulane, a native of shows the works of artists
Princeton, New Jersey. He including such names as Henry
6363 St. Charles Ave. Tel 865-3240.
Map 6 B3. v St. Charles. @ 15, 22. made a fortune from a O. Tanner and Elizabeth Catlett.
Open 9am–7pm daily. 8 merchandising business, which
he launched in New Orleans i Newcomb Art
The Jesuit Order established in 1822. Tulane’s School of
the College of the Immaculate Business is the oldest college Museum
Conception downtown in 1840. of commerce in the country. Tulane University. Map 6 B2. Tel 865-
It merged with Loyola College The University moved to 5328. v St. Charles. @ 15, 22.
in 1912, and together they its current location in 1894. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–
became Loyola Univer sity. The The 110-acre campus has 4pm Sat & Sun. Closed public hols
Tudor-Gothic buildings house 79 buildings, designed in a and summer months.
the largest Catholic university variety of styles. The Howard
in the South. The three Tilton Memorial Library houses In 1886, Josephine Le Monnier
buildings facing St. Charles the Hogan Jazz Archive, plus Newcomb founded a women’s
Avenue are Marquette Hall, other special collections. college that was allied with
the adjacent Thomas Hall, and About 12,000 students attend Tulane University. Initially, she
the Most Holy Name of Jesus the University. donated $100,000 in memory
























Stately Tulane University’s Gibson Hall, built in Richardson-Romanesque style




112-113_EW_New_Orl.indd 112 05/08/16 3:49 pm
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Date 1st October 2013
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Garden d istric t and Upt own  113


sojourn as tutor to a young girl
at Oakley Plantation in West
Feliciana Parish (see p153). Here,
in this rich ornithological
environment, he began many of
his bird portraits, but he stayed
only a short time because of a
dispute with his employer. He
returned to New Orleans and
took up residence at a studio
at 505 Dauphine Street.

p Audubon Zoo
See pp114–15.
The interior of the Newcomb Art Gallery
of her daughter Harriot Sophie first streetcar was introduced at a Riverbend
Newcomb, who died at the age the Expo, and it so entranced Riverfront of St. Charles Ave.
of 15 in 1870. When Josephine Thomas Lipton of tea company Map 6 A1. v St. Charles. @ 34.
herself died, she left an fame that he became a
additional estate of more than motorman. The Mardi Gras With more than 300 billion
$2.5 million to the college. Krewe of Rex (see pp30–31) gallons of water flowing
The Woldenberg Art arrived at the Expo aboard by the city each day, New
Center houses the a yacht, establishing a Orleans lives under the
Newcomb Art Gallery tradition that survives to this constant threat of flood. A
and a smaller space day. Inside the park, there is system of spillways, pumps,
to display student a fine executive golf course, and levees, like this one
and faculty works. The several ponds, recreation along the St. Charles Avenue
Newcomb Gallery areas, sport facilities, and Riverfront, forms a line of
focuses on presenting the Audubon Zoo, defense against the Mississippi.
traveling shows and which occupies Still, certain sections of the
also curates its 58 acres of the city are prone to flooding,
own exhibitions. grounds. The park particularly after heavy rains.
The name of Bronze statue in was named for The pumping system was
Newcomb is more Audubon Park naturalist John James installed soon after 1927 when
familiarly associated Audubon, whose the city was so threatened that
with the arts-and-crafts style of statue stands in its grounds. the authorities cut the levee
pottery that was made at the Audubon, the artist of Birds of below the city in St. Bernard
Newcomb College of Art from America, was born in the West Parish to forestall urban
1895 to 1940. The gallery has Indies. He came to New Orleans flooding. This part of the
some typical pieces on display. and rented his first studio in levee has been adapted as
1821 at 706 Barracks Street. He a recreation area, where
stayed only four months before visitors can enjoy a beautiful
o Audubon Park taking off for another brief view of the river.
6500 Magazine St. Map 6 B3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 22. 7
∑ auduboninstitute.org
This park was carved out of
the plantations owned by
the Foucher and Boré families
in 1871. The 1884 World’s
Industrial and Cotton Expo-
sition was held here. New
Orleans was still recovering
from the double devastations
of the Civil War and
Reconstruction (see pp20–21),
and the exposition helped
boost the city’s morale. The
main building alone covered
almost four times the surface of
the Super dome (see p97). The Taking a rest on a hot day in Audubon Park




112-113_EW_New_Orleans.indd 113 13/08/14 2:08 pm

114  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

p Audubon Zoo

This appealing 58-acre zoo, landscaped with fountains
and water gardens, can be toured easily in a few hours.
It opened in 1938 but was completely redesigned in
the 1980s; today, most of the animals are living in open
paddocks that replicate their natural habitats. Only a
few of the 1930s buildings remain. The swamp exhibit is
one of the most engaging, showcasing Louisiana white
alligators, as well as Acadian culture and music. The
world-class zoo is part of Audubon Park (see p113), one . Louisiana Swamp
of the loveliest urban parks in the country. Originally, Alligators bask along the
the 340-acre park was the sugar plantation of Jean banks or float like logs in the
Etienne Boré, who developed the commercially muddy lagoon.
successful sugar granulation process. It was also the
location of the 1884 World Exposition.













The African Savannah
Rhinos, zebras, African wild
dogs, and white pelicans
all live together with a host of
opportunistic visitors such as ibis,
heron, and egrets.
























Reptile Encounter
Sea Lions King cobras, rattlesnakes, many
The sea lion pool is one of the oldest features of the zoo. amphibians, and the impressive
Feeding time draws the crowds. Komodo dragon hold court here.




114-115_EW_New_Orl.indd 114 05/08/16 3:56 pm

GARDEN DISTRIC T AND UPT OWN  115


. Jaguar Jungle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A sloth, spider monkeys,
and anteaters cohabit Practical Information
with jaguars in this 6500 Magazine St. Map 6 B3.
exhibit, which is built Tel 581-4629. Open 10am–5pm
around a replica of Mon–Fri (to 6pm Sat & Sun).
Mayan ruins set in a Closed first Friday in May,
super-lush jungle.
Thanksgiving, Dec 24–25,
Mardi Gras. & 7 8 0
Transport
@ 11. v St. Charles.










Flamingos
A peaceful lake
is home to dozens of
beautiful flamingos.



















Cool Zoo
This animal-themed
splash park, with its
Gator Run, is
popular with
visitors of all ages.
Main entrance




KEY
Orangutan Habitat
& Elephant Habitat 1 Tropical Bird House
Watch orangutans
swing around their 2 Primates, such as mandrills and
Asian Domain home gorillas, play here.
and elephants play 3 St. Charles Streetcar free
with tree trunks and shuttle stop
paddle in their pools.




114-115_EW_New_Orl.indd 115 05/08/16 3:56 pm

Conservatory of the Two Sisters at the New Orleans Botanical Garden



B E L L A I R E D R I V E A C A MOUND AVE N A V A R R E S T R E E T CITY B a y o u S t . J o h n

PARK
PARK
CEMETERY
GREENWOOD C A N A L B L V D W I S N E R B L V D D E S A I X B L V D S T. B E
TRAFALGAR STREET
CEMETERY B E L F O R T S T R E E T
LAKE LAWN D E M Y D R I V E
M A RY L A N D D R I V E C I T Y P A R K A V E N U E FORTIN STREET
See also Street Finder maps
1 & 2 G E N T I L L Y B L V D
FAIR GROUNDS
RACE TRACK
N D O R G E N O I S S T
N ALEXANDER ST
M E T A I R I E R O A D PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRES O R L E A N S A V E N U E M OSS STREET E S P L A N A D E A V E N U E STALLINGS
PONCE DE LEON ST
GRAND ROUTE ST JOHN STREET
Sights at a Glance NEW ORLEANS C A N A L S T R E E T C O N T I S T R E E T PLAYGROUND P A U L M O R P H Y S T R N A R D A V E N U E
COUNTRY CLUB B I E N V I L L E S T
Museums & Galleries C A R R O L L T O N A V E N U E MOSS S T R E E T
1 New Orleans Museum P A L M Y R A MOSS STREET KENNEDY
PLACE
of Art pp122–5 O R L E A N S A V E N U E U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E N T O N T I S T R E E T
T O U L O U S E S T R E E T
P O N T C H A R T R A I N B L V D SWAY
3 Storyland and M ON T IC EL L O AV E PALMETTO STREET H A M I L T O N S T C L E V E L A N D B A Y O U R O A D NORTH GALVEZ STREET
Carousel Gardens PALM STREET GENERAL OGDEN ST B A U D I N S T S T R E E T D U M A I N E S T R E E T N J O H N S O N S T
7 Pitot House B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T
0 Degas House A I R L I N E H I G H W A Y M O NRO E S T D ' H E M E C O U R T S T S T R E E T N R O M A N S T
PALMETTO STREET
e Longue Vue House N O R T H B R O A D A V E N U E ESPLANADE AVENUE N DERBIGNY ST
S SCOTT ST
S TELEMACHUS ST
and Gardens B A U D I N C O N T I S T R E E T U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E
P A R K W A Y
C A N A L S T R E E T
Parks and Gardens Restaurants see pp179–80 12 Ralph’s on the Park B A N K S S T R E E T P A R K W A Y I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T O R L E A N S
2 Dueling Oaks 1 1000 Figs 13 Rue 127 705 yards D ' H E M E C O U R T S T D U M A I N E S T R E E T
4 New Orleans 2 Angelo Brocato 14 Theo’s Pizza N O R T H C L A I B O R N E A V E N U E
COMISKEY
Botanical Garden 3 Bevi Seafood Co. 15 Toups’ Meatery T U L A N E A V E N U E C L E V E L A N D
NORTH GALVEZ STREET
CENTER
6 Bayou St. John 4 Café Degas 16 Venezia A V E N U E
P A L M Y R A S T R E E T
Cemeteries 5 Crescent City Steak House 17 Willie Mae’s S T R E E T B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T
Scotch House
8 St. Louis Cemetery #3 6 Dooky Chase S T R E E T S T. LO U I S S T
7 Doson’s Noodle House
C O N T I S T R E E T
q Cypress Grove Cemetery 8 Five Happiness C A N A L S T R E E T
w Metairie Cemetery B A N K S S T R E E T
S GALVEZ ST
9 Liuzza’s
Entertainment 10 Mandina’s T U L A N E A V E N U E
5 Sports Facilities in City Park 11 Parkway Bakery
P A L M Y R A S T R E E T
9 Fair Grounds and Tavern


116-117_EW_New_Orl.indd 116 05/08/16 3:56 pm

NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA  117

MID-CITY

Extending from the French Quarter toward and Cypress Grove. The major streets in
Lake Pont chartrain, Mid-City is the greenest the area are Canal Street and Esplanade
part of New Orleans, with the largest swath Avenue. Canal connects downtown with
of land taken up by City Park. This is carved the cemeteries, while Esplanade is lined
out of an old plantation that was donated with Creole mansions. Mid-City suffered
to the city in 1850 by bank director John from flooding in the aftermath of Hurricane
McDonogh on the provision that the funds Katrina. While portions of it are above sea
from its sale be used for public schools. The level, other areas were under water for
city bent the rules a little and created a park weeks. Tremendous strides have been
instead. The other green areas in Mid-City made toward reconstruction, and today,
are given over to various cemeteries such as the bright-red Canal streetcar rumbles
Greenwood, Metairie, St. Louis Cemetery #3, through this charming area once again.




0 meters 500
0 yards 500




B E L L A I R E D R I V E A C A MOUND AVE N A V A R R E S T R E E T CITY B a y o u S t . J o h n

PARK
PARK
CEMETERY
GREENWOOD C A N A L B L V D W I S N E R B L V D D E S A I X B L V D S T. B E
TRAFALGAR STREET
CEMETERY B E L F O R T S T R E E T
LAKE LAWN D E M Y D R I V E
M A RY L A N D D R I V E C I T Y P A R K A V E N U E FORTIN STREET G E N T I L L Y B L V D
FAIR GROUNDS
RACE TRACK
N D O R G E N O I S S T
N ALEXANDER ST
M E T A I R I E R O A D PONTCHARTRAIN EXPRES O R L E A N S A V E N U E M OSS STREET E S P L A N A D E A V E N U E STALLINGS
PONCE DE LEON ST
GRAND ROUTE ST JOHN STREET
NEW ORLEANS C A N A L S T R E E T C O N T I S T R E E T PLAYGROUND P A U L M O R P H Y S T R N A R D A V E N U E
COUNTRY CLUB B I E N V I L L E S T MOSS S T R E E T
KENNEDY
PLACE
M ON T IC EL L O AV E PALM STREET H A M I L T O N S T B A U D I N S T C L E V E L A N D B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T D U M A I N E S T R E E T B A Y O U R O A D NORTH GALVEZ STREET
P A L M Y R A C A R R O L L T O N A V E N U E MOSS STREET U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E N T O N T I S T R E E T
T O U L O U S E S T R E E T
N J O H N S O N S T
P O N T C H A R T R A I N B L V D SWAY
GENERAL OGDEN ST
N R O M A N S T
S T R E E T
O R L E A N S A V E N U E
PALMETTO STREET
PALMETTO STREET
A I R L I N E H I G H W A Y
M O NRO E S T D ' H E M E C O U R T S T S T R E E T N O R T H B R O A D A V E N U E ESPLANADE AVENUE N DERBIGNY ST
S SCOTT ST
S TELEMACHUS ST
B A U D I N C O N T I S T R E E T U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E
C A N A L S T R E E T
P A R K W A Y
B A N K S S T R E E T P A R K W A Y O R L E A N S
705 yards D ' H E M E C O U R T S T P A L M Y R A S T R E E T D U M A I N E S T R E E T
N O R T H C L A I B O R N E A V E N U E
I B E R V I L L E S T R E E T
COMISKEY C L E V E L A N D
NORTH GALVEZ STREET
CENTER
A V E N U E
T U L A N E A V E N U E
B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T
S T R E E T
S T. LO U I S S T
C O N T I S T R E E T
S T R E E T
B A N K S S T R E E T
S GALVEZ ST

C A N A L S T R E E T
P A L M Y R A S T R E E T
T U L A N E A V E N U E

For keys to symbols see back flap


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118  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: City Park

This 1,300-acre park is among the ten largest urban parks in
the US. Hurricane Katrina caused damage to the grounds,
trees, infrastructure, and facilities, but most of the park has
now reopened and is thriving. Visitors flock to the spectacular
Botanical Garden and the New Orleans Museum of Art, while
kids love the carousel and Story land, a theme park with rides
and fairy tale exhibits. Eight miles of lagoons allow for fishing
and boating. The park’s Besthoff Sculpture Garden showcases
30 major 20th-century sculptures.
3 Storyland and Carousel
The wooden carousel is one
of the main attractions in the
amusement park.








The Goldring/
Woldenberg Great Lawn V I C T O R Y A V E N U E
This landscaped area hosts
many concerts.




D R E Y F O U S D R I V E










Popp’s Bandstand
Playgrounds surround this C I T Y P A R K A V E N U E
bandstand, named after
lumber magnate John Popp.











The Peristyle
Situated by a pretty lagoon, the Peristyle
has been a popular gathering spot for
more than a century.




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4 . New Orleans
Botanical Garden
Botanical exhibits and themed
gardens – including the famous MID-CITY
rose gardens – cover 10 acres
of this ever- popular park.
FRENCH
Statues by Mexican artist QUARTER
Enrique Alferez stand among WAREHOUSE
the trees. DISTRICT
& CBD
Locator Map
See Street Fi nder maps 1 & 2









1 . New Orleans
Museum of Art
A Beaux-Arts building
houses a collection of
American and
international art.
R O O S E V E LT M A L L
Besthoff Sculpture Garden









L E L O N G D R I V E






C I T Y P A R K A V E N U E

2 Dueling Oaks
As many as ten duels a day were
once fought here. The last one was
a challenge with sabers and
took place in 1939.



0 meters 100
0 yards 100
The Casino (1912) Key
This Mission Revival building houses a gift shop and food
concessions. It is often used as a venue for weddings. Suggested route




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120  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA


such as Jack (of the Beanstalk),
Puss in Boots, Rapunzel, and
many others. There is also
story reading, puppet shows
in the Puppet Castle, and
face painting.
The carousel, situated in
the southwest corner of the
gardens, was built in 1906 and is
one of the few antique wooden
carousels left in the US. Nearby,
visitors can climb aboard a
miniature train, which has run
around the park since 1896.
A large Ferris wheel offers a
bird’s-eye view of the park.
The Flute Player, by Enrique Alferez, at the Botanical Garden
4 New Orleans
1 New Orleans fought in 1939 between two Botanical Garden
Museum of Art students from a local fencing Victory Ave, City Park. Map 2 A1.
academy. The owner of the
See pp122–5. original plantation from which Tel 483-9386. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal.
Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
City Park was carved, Louis Closed Jan 1, Dec 25, Mardi Gras. &
Allard, is rumored to be buried = 7 ∑ neworleanscitypark.com
2 Dueling Oaks at the foot of the oaks.
This 10-acre public garden
City Park. Map 2 A1. @ 46, 48, 90.
v Canal. 7 3 Storyland and was created in the 1930s. Back
then, it was mainly a rose
Behind the famous statue of Carousel Gardens garden, but today there are also
Confederate General P. G. T. City Park. Map 2 A1. Tel 482-4888. spring and perennial gardens
Beauregard (see p73), which @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal. Open 10am– featuring azaleas, camellias, and
guards the entrance to City Park, 4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. magnolias, as well as tropical
Lelong Avenue approaches the Closed Dec 25. & 7 plants and trees. Several statues
New Orleans Museum of Art. To ∑ neworleanscitypark.com by Mexican artist Enrique
the left is a grand, solitary oak, Alferez, inclu ding his Women
still commonly called the Storyland, a beguiling theme in Huipil and The Flute Player,
Dueling Oaks although there park for children, is filled with all stand among live oaks.
is now only one. kinds of entertainments derived The Garden Study Center
Many duels were fought in from traditional folk tales and and the Pavilion of the Two
New Orleans, and most of these well-known nursery rhymes. Sisters are reminiscent of Euro-
took place in the bosky acres Kids can enjoy Jack and Jill’s pean garden architecture. The
of what has since become slide, climb around Miss Muffet’s Conservatory houses orchids
City Park. Under the massive spider web, or challenge and two major exhibits: Living
branches of live oaks, as many Captain Hook to a duel. Along Fossils, showcasing plants that
as ten duels a day were fought. the way, they may also grew on the earth before flow-
Reports indicate that one encounter fairytale characters ering plants, and the impressive
particular dueler called for the Tropical Rainforest exhibit.
use of whaling harpoons, after Much of the plant collection
which the offended party was lost as a result of Hurri cane
decided he wasn’t so Katrina, but the gardens
offended after all. have now been
The last duel was com pletely rebuilt.










The carousel in City Park, one of the oldest enclosed carousels in the United States




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5 Sports Facilities
in City Park
Map 2 A1 B1. Riverfront. Tel 482-
4888. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal.
∑ neworleanscitypark.com
The majestic City Park contains
many excellent sports facilities.
The City Park Pepsi Tennis
Center has 26 lighted courts,
which can be reserved by
phone 30 days ahead of time.
The City Park Practice Center
has a 74-tee lighted driving
range and a putting course.
Its 18-hole North Course has
been rebuilt since Hurricane The Pepsi Tennis Center, City Park
Katrina and has water features
on eight holes. plantations along the bayou Once a working plantation,
The park’s 8 miles (13 km) and a canal was dug, linking it it was carefully moved in the
of lagoons provide ample to the downtown, ending in 1960s a block upstream to this
opportunities for boating, Basin Street at Congo Square. location. In 1810, the house was
and for fishing for bass and Today, the canal is filled in, but purchased by James Pitot, who
trout. Egrets, heron, and the the name Basin Street survives. had been the second mayor
occasional alligator also inhabit In the 18th and 19th cen turies, of the city five years earlier. He
the lagoons. Fishing permits the bayou was the scene of had arrived from Haiti in 1796
can be obtained at the voodoo ceremonies. Marie after the slave uprising led by
Administrative Center. There is Laveau (see p85) was the most Toussaint L’Ouverture. Pitot
also a stable, offering riding infamous practitioner. went on to direct a bank and
lessons and trail rides. run the New Orleans Navigation
Company before being
7 Pitot House appointed to a judgeship.
6 Bayou St. John In 1904, the house was
1440 Moss St. Map 2 B2. Tel 482-0312.
Map 2 B1. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal. Open 10am– bought by Mother Cabrini, who
3pm Wed–Sat. Closed major hols. was later to become America’s
The French recognized this & ∑ pitothouse.org first saint, and converted into
bayou as a key strategic asset, a convent. It is now a museum
providing access to the Gulf of This classic West Indian-style and contains the original
Mexico via Lake Pontchartrain. raised house was built in 1799, antiques and furnishings from
As New Orleans grew, so did on the banks of Bayou St. John. the house.























The verdant Bayou St. John




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122  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

1 New Orleans Museum of Art

Together, the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) and the
adjacent Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden Third floor
comprise one of the most important cultural destinations
in the Gulf South. Housed in a classic Beaux-Arts building,
NOMA’s impressive collections include works by
Picasso, Degas, Miró, Rodin, and Pollock; a 10,000-piece
photography collection; and Asian, African, and
American art. In a beautiful 5-acre site, the sculpture
garden showcases pieces by world-renowned artists,
such as Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.


Stairs to
third floor












. Portrait of a Young Woman (1918)
This is one of Italian Expressionist Amadeo
Modigliani’s most famous paintings, and the oval
face and elongated lines are typical of his style.



Stairs to
. Marie first floor
Antoinette
(1783) To sculpture garden
Vigée Le Brun
helped to improve
Marie Antoinette’s
image by painting
portraits that
worked towards
making her more
likeable to the
public.

Key to Floor Plan
African and Oceanic Art
American Art
Asian Art
Museum shop
Contemporary Art
Decorative Arts
European Art
Prehispanic/Native American Art Art storage
Photography and Graphics
First floor
Special exhibition space



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MID-CIT Y  123

Melanesian Ancestor Figure
This carved-wood figure from VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Abelan peoples in Papua
New Guinea is one of the finest Practical Information
representations of the religious 1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park.
art of Melanesia. Map 2 A1. Tel (504) 658-4100.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Thu,
10am–9pm Fri, 11am–5pm Sat
& Sun. Closed public hols.
& 7 0 - 8
Transport
@ 46, 48.

Gold Cabin (2013)
Inside this gold spray-painted
log cabin by Will Ryman the
walls are decorated
with shotgun shells,
tent stakes, phone
lines, and light bulbs.












Stairs to
third floor
Second
floor
Lousiana Indians Walking
Along the Bayou (1847)
Alfred Boisseau portrayed the Choctaw
Indians engaged in everyday activities.

Gallery Guide
The main entrance leads to three
European art collections. The second
floor houses the American Art and
three further European collections.
The third floor offers African, Oceanic,
Asian, and Native American exhibits.









Main entrance . Reclining Mother and Child (1975)
A gift of the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Foundation,
Stairs to this Henry Moore sculpture depicts the bond
second floor between mother and child.




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124  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the New Orleans Museum of Art

The major collections displayed in the museum’s 46 galleries
include a vast selection of European art, from 12th-century
Italian Florentine to 20th-century French and Spanish works.
There are specialized collections of Latin American and
Prehispanic art; Native and modern American works; arts
of Africa and Asia; photography; and decorative arts. The
Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden displays an
eclectic array of works in a landscaped park.


Benjamin West, and John
African and Oceanic Art Singer Sargent. Also on view
This is one of the finest African is a collection of Louisiana
art collections in the paintings, including Louisiana
country. Established Indians Walking Along the Bayou
in 1953, it now (see p123) by Alfred Boisseau.
represents Sub-Saharan A major acquisition has been
Africa’s five major the work America by contem-
art-producing porary artist Will Ryman. The
regions, including Portrait of Mme. René de Gas,
works by the Baman née Estelle Musson, painted
and Dogon peoples in 1872–3 by Edgar Degas
of Mali and the during a visit to New Orleans,
Benin, the Yoruba, is also displayed. Portrait of a Bijin (courtesan), Yamaguchi
the Ibo, and the Soken (1800)
Ekoi peoples of
Nigeria, Cameroon, Asian Art the Neolithic to the modern
and the Ivory One of the finest collections era. There are stone, wood,
Coast. Among the of Edo (1600–1868) Japanese and bronze sculptures, plus
highlights is a rare paintings can be seen in these miniatures, and religious art
palace veranda post galleries. All the major Japanese from India.
carved in the shape schools are represented, and
Yoruba of an equestrian it is particularly strong on the
mounted warrior figure by Nanga, Zenga, and Maruyama- Contemporary Art
warrior Yoruba artist Olowe Shijo schools. The collection A great variety of sculpture,
of Ise. Another gem also includes a wide variety of paintings, and mixed-media
is a terracotta head from the ceramics, lacquer, textiles, prints, works, such as Joseph Cornell’s
Nok culture dating from around and photographs. The Chinese intricate small-scale shadow
500 BC–AD 200. The Head of collection has ceramics from boxes, are included in the
an Oba (late 18th century) is a Contemporary Art
striking bronze funerary portrait, collection, which
which might have been placed encompasses
on an altar in the Benin royal Contemporary
palace to commemorate European Art and the
the deceased. American Art exhibits.
The Oceania gallery includes The European collection
wooden figures from Papua features works from
New Guinea; nephrite (a hard such artists as Miró and
green jade-like stone) weapons, Picasso. The American
tools, and ornaments from exhibit ranges from
the Maoris; and a standing Georgia O’ Keefe’s
Malanggan figure, also from My Back Yard (1937)
New Zealand. and Hans Hofmann’s
Abstraction with Chair
and Miró (1943), to
American Art Jackson Pollock’s
This collection includes Composition (White,
some fine examples of early Black, Blue, and Red on
American artists such as John White) (1948) and Roger
Singleton Copley, Gilbert Brown’s California
Stuart, Charles Willson Peale, Portrait of a Young Girl, Joan Miró (1935) Hillside (1988).




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MID-CIT Y  125


Impressionist painters repre­
Decorative Arts
sented in the adjacent gallery.
The museum has a fabulous Other highlights include
glass collection consisting gems such as Picasso’s Woman
of more than 6,000 items, with Tambourine (1938), Miró’s
including ancient glass and Lady Strolling on the Rambla
Tiffany vases. The pottery in Barcelona (1925), Degas’
collection features pieces from Dancer in Green (1878),
New Orleans’ own Newcomb Rodin’s The Age of Bronze
Pottery. There is also a rare (1876), and works by other
collection of “Old Paris” European masters.
porcelain, plus examples of
Sevres and Limoges. The silver
collection contains some Prehispanic/Native Native American kachina dolls representing
American Art
lustrous pieces by English a family (1958)
silversmith Paul Storr. These galleries display a strong
collection of material from
Mayan culture, including some Photography and
European Art impressive sculptures and Graphics
The European collection spans ceramics. Artifacts from Central This collection of more than
a period of 600 years and American cultures are 10,000 vintage photographs
features examples also represented, such is one of the finest of its kind
from the major as Olmec and Mixtec, in the Southeast. It includes
national schools. along with the later works by all the known
The Kress Aztec civilization. masters, such as William Henry
Collection, donated The Native American Fox Talbot’s View of the Paris
to the museum collections include Boulevards (1843), André
by the American Kachina dolls from Kertész’s Théâtre Odeon (1926),
philanthropist Samuel the Hopi and Zuni, Man Ray’s Portrait of Berenice
H. Kress, includes pottery from the Abbott in front of Man Ray
sublime Italian Old Acoma Santo Domingo Composition (1922), and
Master paintings from and San Ildefonso Diane Arbus’s A Young Brooklyn
the early Renaissance pueblos, Apache and Family Going on a Sunday
to the 18th century. Pima baskets, and Outing (1966). In his 1946
French art is also well Morning Glory Percé beadwork and Elegy for the Old South (No. 6),
represented, with works Tiffany vase textiles from the Clarence John Laughlin
from the 17th to the northwest coast. captures the nostalgia of
20th centuries. The The museum also has a the old South in surrealistic
Hyams Gallery features lesser­ special collection of Latin images of decay. His
known 19th­century Salon American colonial art, much of photographs of abandoned
and Barbizon painters, in it from Cuzco in Peru. It includes plantation homes and
contrast with the more familiar an early 18th­century portrait the South in the early 20th
Impressionist and Post­ of an archangel with a musket. century are justly famous.

Sculpture Garden
The dynamic sculptures of
Henry Moore, Barbara
Hepworth, Louise Bourgeois,
George Segal, and other
renowned artists are displayed
among the ancient oaks,
magnolias, and tranquil lagoons
of the Sydney and Walda
Besthoff Sculpture Garden.
This five­acre site, adjacent
to the museum building, was
opened in 2003 to provide a
beautiful natural space for
more than 60 modern and
contemporary sculptures.
Visitors are free to wander
around the park, or join one
The Cardinal’s Friendly Chat, Jehan Georges Vibert (1880) of the daily tours.
Longue Vue House from the Spanish Court



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128  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA


Degas was charmed with
America and especially New
Orleans. Several important
paintings evolved from his
sojourn here, despite the fact
that he did not venture far from
the house for fear of the intense
New Orleans sun affecting his
eyesight. The Cotton Buyer’s
Office (1873) shows his uncle
with several members of his
family, including the artist’s
own brothers René and Achille,
Some of the city’s most poignant tombs at St. Louis Cemetery #3 who both worked in the
8 St. Louis famous “quadroon balls” were cotton business.
The Esplanade house,
Cemetery #3 held. Lafon also sponsored which dates from 1854, has
an orphanage for African- Greek Revivial details and
3421 Esplanade Ave. Map 2 B1.
Tel 482-5065. @ 48, 90. Open 8am– American children. cast-iron balconies. The house
4:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am–4pm Sun. is beautifully maintained
Closed Mardi Gras. throughout and offers bed
9 Fair Grounds and breakfast accommodations
This pristine cemetery, with 1751 Gentilly Blvd. Map 2 C1. (see p164), as well as welcoming
its beautiful wrought-iron gates, Tel 944-5515. @ 48. & 7 visitors during the day. Many
opened in 1856. Among the ∑ fairgroundsracecourse.com reproductions of Degas’ work
notables buried here is Antoine are on display.
Michoud, the original owner of In the mid-1800s, New Orleans
a plantation which is now the was a leading center for horse q Cypress Grove
site of the NASA plant where racing. The Creole Racecourse
in the 1960s. There is also a operated during the 19th Cemetery
memorial to architect James century on what is now the 120 City Park Ave. Map 1 C2.
Gallier, Sr. (see p97) and his Fair Grounds. When Metairie Tel 482-0233. @ 40, 46.
wife, who are buried in Metairie Racecourse closed, the Open 8am–4:30pm daily. 7
Cemetery. Both were tragically Louisiana Jockey Club took
killed when the steamer over and purchased the This cemetery, established
Evening Star sank en route Luling Mansion just by the Firemen’s Charitable
from New York to New Orleans off Esplanade as a Association, was laid out
in October 1866. clubhouse. The name in 1841. The impressive
Other famous figures here change occurred when Egyptian-style gate
include Father Rouquette, the Fair Grounds leads into a grave yard
missionary to the Choctaw, and Corporation took over filled with handsome
black Creole philanthropist in 1940. Races are run memorials. Many of the
Thomy Lafon, owner of the old here from November tombs are dedicated to
Orleans Ballroom, where the to March, and in individual firefighters,
April, the Fair Grounds such as Irad Ferry,
host the New Orleans who lost their lives
Jazz Fest (see p42). in the line of duty.
The track also has a slot Marble statue at Ferry’s tomb, which
machine casino that is Cypress Grove features a broken
open year round. column, was designed
by the famous architect
J. N. B. de Pouilly (see p85).
0 Degas House The cemetery also contains
a large number of rich
2306 Esplanade Ave. Map 3 D3.
Tel 821-5009. @ 48. Open by Protestants, who were buried
appointment only. & 8 here after Girod Cemetery
∑ degashouse.com began to deteriorate. Many
of the tombs have remarkable
Calling himself “almost a son of ironwork, like the weeping
Louisiana,” Impressionist painter cupid gate which is crowned
Edgar Degas (1834–1917) with lovebirds and set between
visited his uncle, Michel Musson inverted torches.
Period furniture in the dining room at (see p109), at this house from An extension to Cypress
Degas House October 1872 until March 1873. Grove was built right across the




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MID-CIT Y  129


street to fulfil a need for space steamboats until his death in
after the yellow fever epidemic 1931. Other denizens include
of 1853. Known as Greenwood P. B. S. Pinchback, a free man of
Cemetery, it was the first in New color who became Louisiana’s
Orleans to be built without a only black governor in 1872–3,
boundary wall. It is the site of and William C. C. Claiborne
the city’s first Civil War Memorial. (see p19), first governor of
Louisiana. David C. Hennessy,
the police chief who was
w Metairie Cemetery assassinated in 1891, also
has an impressive tomb.
5100 Pontchartrain Blvd. Map 1 B1.
Tel 486-6331. @ 40, 46.
Open 8am–5pm daily. 7
e Longue Vue
This is the most attractively
landscaped cemetery in House and Gardens
New Orleans, and the final Large and elaborate tombs in 7 Bamboo Rd. Map 1 A2.
resting place of many of its Matairie Cemetery Tel 488-5488. @ 34, 39.
bluebloods. In the 19th Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
century, the city was the saloonkeeper who had Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 7
premier venue for horseracing, succeeded financially but = ∑ longuevue.com
and the Metairie Racetrack was scorned socially. He was
was the most famous. After the determined to avenge his Cotton broker Edgar Stern
Civil War, mismanagement wife, Mary, and designed this and his wife Edith Rosenwald,
afforded Charles T. Howard the tomb so that in death she heiress to the Sears fortune,
opportunity to take revenge could look down on all those established this estate between
on the racetrack members who who had snubbed her. 1939 and 1942. The interiors
had refused him admission. The tomb of legendary are exquisitely decorated
He purchased it in 1872 and madam Josie Arlington bears with antiques, Oriental car pets
converted it into a cemetery. a bas-relief of a young girl and fine art, including works
The oval racecourse became knocking on a door. Orphaned by Jean Arp, Pablo Picasso,
the cemetery’s main drive. at the age of four, Josie went and Barbara Hepworth. The
Many magnificent tombs into business for herself as a gardens, which contain 23
are located here, and near teenager. She became a fountains created by Ellen
the entrance stands the notorious whore and brawler, Biddle, are exceptional
massive 85-ft (26-m) high and once bit off half an ear examples of landscape design.
Moriarty monument, which and the lower lip of a The largest garden is modeled
required the laying of a special fellow prostitute. on Spain’s 14th-century
railroad to bring it into the A large bell from his boat Alhambra gardens; others
cemetery. Daniel Moriarty America marks the grave of are inspired by French and
was an Irish immigrant and Captain Cooley, who ran several English designs.























The Entrance Court leading up to Longue Vue House




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NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA  131

THREE GUIDED WALKS

These three walks take visitors through and distinctive cemetery, circling around a
landmark districts and also into the heart lesser-known waterway, the Bayou St. John.
of elegant residential areas that showcase The third walk heads uptown to the Lower
the unique make-up of New Orleans’ Garden District, a diverse and bustling area
historic neighborhoods. The walk along full of interesting shops, historic churches,
the Mississippi riverfront has sweeping and fine architecture, with literary
views of the city, and the short ferry ride connections. In addition, each of the five
to Old Algiers Point provides a fasci nating neighborhoods covered in the Area by Area
glimpse of the workings of this powerful section of this book has a walk marked on its
natural waterway. The Faubourg St. John Street-by-Street map. Several organizations
walk explores an area with deep historic also offer guided walks through the French
ties to the city’s colonial origins, with its quarter, Garden District, and other areas in
French West Indies-style raised houses the city (see pp194–5).

CHOOSING A WALK
The Three Walks
This map shows the location of the three
guided walks in relation to the main
sightseeing areas of New Orleans. Faubourg St. John
(pp136–7)







Mid-City Mansion on Esplanade Avenue,
Faubourg St. John


Lower French
Quarter
Upper
Mississippi Riverfront French
(pp132–3) Quarter
Warehouse
District
& CBD


Steamboat Natchez
Garden District
and Uptown
M i s s i s s i p p i


Key
Walk route
Lower Garden District
(pp134–5)
0 kilometers 4
0 miles 2 St. Charles Avenue Streetcar
Pedestrians at the bustling Jackson Square



130-131_EW_New_Orl.indd 131 05/08/16 3:49 pm

132  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

A Walk Around the Mississippi Riverfront

New Orleans owes its very existence to the Mississippi
River, one of the world’s great waterways and an iconic
feature on the cultural, historic, and economic landscape
of America. This walk provides superb vistas from both
sides of the river, explores a portion of the levee system
and, thanks to a free ferry ride, gives you a chance to
experience its swirling waters up close.

1 Cannon, Washington
Artillery Park

DECATUR STREET 2

JACKSON
SQUARE
1
3


4 The Steamboat Natchez, crossing the wide Mississippi River 4
Jackson Square to paved walkway named for PATTERSON ROAD
the Aquarium former New Orleans mayor WOLDENBERG
Begin at Washington Artillery Maurice “Moon” Landrieu. Take RIVERFRONT 0 OLIVIER STREET
PARK
Park 1 (see p79). This raised the set of steps leading down
platform features a 19th-century to the water. This is a popular 5 M i s s i s s i p p i MORGAN ST
cannon and has excellent views place for visitors to watch DELARONDE STREET VERRET STREET PELICAN AVENUE
of Jackson Square (see p56) and passing vessels, while street OLD ALGIERS AVENUE
POINT
the river. Descend the stairs on musicians performing for tips 9 BERMUDA STREET
the river side of the platform add to the ambience. Follow PELICAN
and cross the railroad tracks to the Moon Walk upriver
reach the Moon Walk 2, a (toward Canal Street), SEGUIN STREET
passing the Jax Brewery 3, BOUNY ST
which at one time was the 6
Tips for Walkers largest brewery in the South
Starting point: Washington and is now a shopping mall. Canal – Algiers Ferry
Artillery Park near Jackson Square. You also pass the berth for
Length: 1 mile (1.6 km), plus the the Steamboat Natchez 4
ferry ride. (see pp66–7), a paddle CANAL ST 7
Getting there: The riverfront wheeler that offers river
area is within easy walking trips and enlivens the 8
distance of downtown or French riverfront with music from PL DE FRANCE
Quarter hotels. The Riverfront its steam calliope prior to
streetcar also runs along here.
Stopping-off points: The each departure. Just upriver
renovated Jax Brewery has a is Woldenberg Riverfront
coffee shop and food court. There Park 5 (see p90), named for
are many outdoor vendors in a local philanthropist. Once
the Spanish Plaza near the Canal occupied by rusting river
Street ferry terminal. Adjacent warehouses, the park now
to the plaza is the Outlet provides an open green area
Collection at Riverwalk which has that’s popular for picnics,
a large food court with a branch outdoor games, and jogging, as
of the famous Café du Monde
(see p78). Across the river in well as a bandstand. The park is
Algiers, drop into the Dry Dock also the setting for a collection
Café and Bar opposite the ferry of sculptures and monuments,
terminal for gumbo, or “po’boys” including the white marble
and plenty of atmosphere. Monument to the Immigrant and 5 Monument to the Immigrant,
the city’s Holocaust memorial. Woldenberg Riverfront Park


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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  133


Coast Guard cutters or tugboats the trail of crushed
often temporarily tie up along shells that top the
this stretch of the river, giving grassy levee. This
walkers a close-up view of the manmade embankment
vessels. Just past Woldenberg is part of a system of
Park is the Audubon Aquarium levees along thousands
of the Americas (see pp92–3) of miles of river-
and Entergy IMAX Theater 6. front that protects
This area is filled with whimsical communities from the
sculptures of marine life, shady Mississippi’s floodwaters.
park benches, and outdoor On the right, you
vendors serving refreshments. can see the Algiers
Courthouse 0, a grand
Canal Street Ferry to Romanesque Revival
Old Algiers Point The facade of St. Louis Cathedral structure built in 1896
Next to the aquarium is the
DECATUR STREET 2 Ferry 7 (see p217), a state-run New Orleans skyline, St. Louis toward the river, you can watch
after a devastating fire
terminal for the Canal Street
wiped out much of the
neighborhood. Looking
JACKSON
commuter ferry providing rides
SQUARE
Cathedral (see pp58–9), as well
huge ships from around the
for foot passengers across the
1
globe make the dramatic
Mississippi. If the ferry is not in
as the various craft that ply the
river, including the gigantic
3
hairpin turn round Algiers Point.
This curve in the river suggested
New Orleans’ most enduring
nickname, the Crescent City.
4 Follow the levee path for
about 1,640 ft (500 m), then
PATTERSON ROAD descend the set of colorfully
WOLDENBERG painted concrete steps down
M i s s i s s i p p i Patterson Road and continue
RIVERFRONT
PARK 0 OLIVIER STREET to Patterson Road. Turn left on
5 MORGAN ST DELARONDE STREET VERRET STREET PELICAN AVENUE walking one block to Olivier
Street. Turn right and walk two
OLD ALGIERS
AVENUE
POINT
beautifully restored Creole
9 BERMUDA STREET blocks past some of the area’s
PELICAN townhouses and shotgun-style
homes (see p37). Turn right on
cruise ships Pelican Avenue, a tree-shaded
berthed just residential street with more
upriver. The ferry
SEGUIN STREET
6 docks in Old Algiers distinctive architecture. At the
Canal – Algiers Ferry in 1719. After leaving the Algiers turn right here and continue up
BOUNY ST
end you reach Bouny Street;
Point 9, a village established
the levee to the ferry terminal
terminal, turn left and follow for the return trip.
CANAL ST 7 0 meters 300
PL DE FRANCE 8 0 yards 300
Key
Walk route
dock at the terminal, you could
use the waiting time to explore
the adjacent Spanish Plaza 8
(see p90). Dedicated in 1976,
the plaza was a gift from Spain
in a gesture of friendship to its
one-time colony and features
a fountain ringed by tile
mosaics of Spanish coats of
arms. The ferry ride is brief but
offers excellent views of the 8 The fountain at the center of the Spanish Plaza
For keys to symbols see back flap
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134  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

A Walk Around the Lower Garden District

The Lower Garden District offers visitors a diverse sampling of
the ethnic, historical, and economic dynamics at work in the
area through the last two centuries. Although this area is not
as opulent as the neighboring Garden District (see pp102–3),
it has seen a tremendous amount of revitalization since the
1990s. The walk takes you past buildings with fascinating
histories, ornate churches, an antebellum mansion, and a
cut-down Eiffel Tower.
mythology. Walk two
blocks toward the river
to Coliseum Park 2, an
irregular space that
was laid out in 1806.
The park’s name refers
to an outdoor arena 5 Interior of St. Mary’s Assumption
that was planned here
but never realized. proximity for separate Irish
Follow the path along and German parishes during
Camp Street beneath the immigration boom of the
the spreading branches mid-19th century. The Irish 1
of oak trees for three worshipped at St. Alphonsus
blocks and turn left 4, located on the right side of M E L P O M E N E S T
on Race Street. the street. Now deconsecrated, S T. C H A R L E S A V E
P R Y T A N I A S T R E E T
Continue one block St. Alphonsus is open as an arts TERPSICHORE STREET
then turn right on and cultural center with tours 2
Magazine Street. available (Tuesday, Thursday, E U T E R P E S T R E E T
Dominating the corner and Saturday) to view its
here is St. Vincent’s frescoes, stained glass, and a P O LY M N I A S T R E E T COLISEUM S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
Guesthouse, a small exhibit on the early
St. Charles Avenue fuses the old with the new sweeping structure Irish experience in
with fanciful wrought- New Orleans. PARK E U T E R P E S T R E E T
Coliseum Square to iron balconies 3. The inn was B R A I N I A S T C O L I S E U M S T C A M P
Magazine Street originally built as an orphanage
Begin at the streetcar stop in 1861, a time when yellow 9 0 R A C E S T R E E T
at St. Charles Avenue and fever left many children without S T . C H A R L E S A V E N U E S T . A N D R E W S T F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T 3
Melpomene Street 1, which parents. The orphanage was
M A G A Z I N E S T
is one of a collection of parallel a beneficiary of Margaret S T . M A R Y S T R E E T
streets in the area, named for Haughery, an Irish 8 J O S E P H I N E S T R E E T O R A N G E S T R E E T C O N S T A N C E S T R E E T
the Nine Muses of Greek immigrant and
orphan herself
who made an C A M P S T R E E T
Tips for Walkers enormous fortune S T R E E T F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T
R I C H A R D S T
Starting point: The streetcar operating bakeries S T . A N D R E W S T S O P H I E W R I G H T P L
stop at the corner of St. Charles around the city. 1 S T S T R E E T
Avenue and Melpomene Street. Continue up Magazine S T R E E T S T . M A R Y S T
Length: 1.75 miles (2.8 km). Street, where homes give 2 N D S T R E E T
Getting there: By streetcar to the way to rows of boutiques C O L I S E U M J A C K S O N A V E N U E
S T
Melpomene Street stop; or a cab and restaurants with large 5 S T A N C E S T R E E T
ride from Canal Street. balconies shading the sidewalks C H E S T N U T 4
Stopping-off points: Mojo beneath. After four blocks on C O N
Coffee House at Magazine and Magazine Street, turn left on C A M P M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T J O S E P H I N E S T LAUREL ST
Race streets is a popular spot.
P H I L I P S T R E E T
Farther down Magazine, Jackson St. Andrew Street and continue 7
Restaurant serves lunch, dinner, for one block before turning J A C K S O N AV E
and brunch, while Juan’s Flying right on Constance Street. P H I L I P S T
Burrito serves Tex-Mex fare with 6
rock and roll flair. On St. Charles St. Alphonsus and
Avenue, near Jackson Avenue, St. Mary’s Assumption C O N S T A N C E S T R E E T
Igor’s Lounge and Game Room This single block on Constance 1 S T S T R E E T
has big burgers. Street is home to two historic 2 N D S T R E E T
Catholic churches built in close
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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  135


Confederacy, died in 1889.
One block up at No. 1239
7 (see p109), is the Brevard-
Wisdom-Rice House, the
private home previously
owned by novelist Anne Rice
and used as a setting for her
book The Witching Hour.
Continue walking three
blocks to St. Charles Avenue
and turn right. This avenue is
the main route for Mardi Gras
parades (see pp30–31) and, if
you look up, the remnants of
colorful beads thrown from
the floats can often be seen
tangled in the branches of
the oaks along the street.
One block down, at No.
7 Former home of Anne Rice, a prominent New Orleans author 2220 St. Charles Avenue, is
the House of Broel 8, an
antebellum mansion that is
It was consecrated on the same
S T. C H A R L E S A V E 1 M E L P O M E N E S T 2 was laid across the street for A further two blocks down
day in 1858 that the cornerstone
open to the public for tours.
St. Charles Avenue you’ll find
St. Mary’s Assumption 5.
the striking metal
This German Baroque
structure known
Revival church has
P R Y T A N I A S T R E E T
locally as the Eiffel
an altar, statues, and
stained glass all
Tower building 9.
M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T
It was built from
imported from Munich
TERPSICHORE STREET
COLISEUM S T R E E T
and is considered one
pieces of the Paris
E U T E R P E S T R E E T
C O L I S E U M S T C A M P E U T E R P E S T R E E T of the most ornate The familiar sight of a land mark that were
removed during its
churches in New
Orleans. Regular
1980 renovation
P O LY M N I A S T R E E T
PARK
and shipped here.
services continue
at St. Mary’s
The building houses
S T . C H A R L E S A V E N U E 0 S T . A N D R E W S T F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T O R A N G E S T R E E T Cheerful Ascetic,” Father Seelos Eiffel Society.
Assumption,
a nightclub and
St. Charles streetcar
B R A I N I A S T
which is also
restaurant called
9
home to the National
R A C E S T R E E T
3
On the same block is
Shrine of Blessed Francis
the visitors’ center of the
Xavier Seelos. Known as “the
8
New Orleans Metropolitan
died of yellow fever in 1867
S T . M A R Y S T R E E T
C A M P S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E S T R I C H A R D S T C O N S T A N C E S T R E E T in 2000. The shrine houses his Convention and Visitors’ Bureau
0, which is a good place to
and was beatified by the Church
J O S E P H I N E S T R E E T
pick up maps, and information
S T R E E T S T . A N D R E W S T S O P H I E W R I G H T P L F E L I C I T Y S T R E E T remains, a collection of religious on tours, restaurants, and
art, and a gift shop.
attractions across the city.
S T R E E T S T . M A R Y S T First Street to Outside, at the corner of
St. Andrew Street, is a streetcar
C O L I S E U M J A C K S O N A V E N U E 5 S T A N C E S T R E E T St. Charles Avenue stop for the return trip down-
S T
1 S T S T R E E T
town and the walk’s end.
Leaving the church of
C H E S T N U T C O N 4 St. Mary’s Assumption, turn
2 N D S T R E E T
right on Josephine Street and
C A M P M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T J O S E P H I N E S T LAUREL ST continue for one block. Turn
left on Magazine Street and
P H I L I P S T R E E T
7 J A C K S O N AV E continue for three blocks past
more boutiques. Turn right
on 1st Street, one of the first
6 P H I L I P S T 0 meters 300 streets in the Garden District
C O N S T A N C E S T R E E T 0 yards 300 proper. On the left, at No. 1134,
is the privately owned Payne-
Strachan House 6 (see p109),
president of the American
Key Walk route where Jefferson Davis, 0 Louis Armstrong statue, outside the
1 S T S T R E E T
New Orleans Visitors’ Bureau
2 N D S T R E E T
For keys to symbols see back flap
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136  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk Around the Faubourg St. John

This walk circles a portion of Bayou St. John, an historically
strategic waterway where some of the city’s earliest colonial
development took place. It also showcases a beautiful
residential neighborhood with original Creole mansions and
the distinctive above-ground St. Louis Cemetery #3. The area
is easily accessible from downtown via the Canal streetcar and
is close to the attractions in City Park (see pp118–19).





The banks of the Bayou St. John
waterway


A V E N U E

M O S S ST. LOUIS
1
CEMETERY
q
2 Pitot House, a West Indian-style raised house E S P L A N A D E A V E
Around the Bayou Local Choctaw Indians M O S S S T
Begin at Beauregard Circle first showed this
1, where a statue honors waterway to French
Confederate general P. G. T. explorers in 1699, M O S S B a 2 9
Beauregard, nicknamed “the and it quickly 0
Mighty Creole” (see p73), who became an important y o u S t . J o h n M Y S T E R Y S T R E E T
directed the opening battle shipping route that S T R E E T 3
of the Civil War at Fort Sumter connected the early M A U R E P A S S T R E E T
in South Carolina. Cross N. trading posts on the
Carrollton Avenue to the Mississippi River with Lake WILSON STREET 4
Esplanade Avenue bridge and, Pontchartrain and the Gulf of 8 P O N C E D E L E O N S T R E E T
once across, turn right on Moss Mexico. Later, the bayou was HARDING
Street. Follow the sidewalk or extended to the French Quarter STREET T G R A N D R O U T E E S P L A N A D E A V E N U E
S T J O H N
the grassy footpath around the by a canal that has since been E E
bend of Bayou St. John (see p121). filled. Today, the bayou is an T R
informal recreational area. The S T D E S O T O S T R E E T S T R E E T 7
banks of the waterway have also S
Tips for Walkers historically been connected M O S S S T R E E S
Starting point: Beauregard with voodoo rituals (see p85), M O H A G A N S T
Circle, at the gates of City Park. including those led by N . R E N D O N N . L O P E Z S T R E E T D E S O T O S T
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km). Marie Laveau in the 19th
Getting there: From Canal Street, century. Although voodoo D U M A I N E S T
take the Canal streetcar marked practice is much less in 5
City Park to the end of the line. public evidence today, U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E
RTA bus #91 runs from N. Rampart some practitioners still M O S S S T 6 B E L L S T R E E T
Street at Esplanade Avenue to congregate at Bayou St. KENNEDY
Beauregard Circle. D U M A I N E S T R E E T PLACE
Stopping-off points: There are John on holidays, especially M O S S S T S T . P H I L I P S T R E E T
many casual and upscale St. John’s Eve on June 23. H A G A N S T R E E T
restaurants and cafés clustered In the 18th and early 19th
around Esplanade Avenue and centuries, French colonists built
Ponce de Leon Street, including country homes in this area and
the French bistro Café Degas, these can still be seen in the
the Fair Grinds Coffeehouse, French West Indies-style houses Key
and the Spanish restaurant Lola’s. here. An outstanding example
is Pitot House 2 (see p121), a Walk route




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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  137


Creole raised country house
that is now a museum.
Named for James Pitot, New
Orleans’ first American mayor,
construction of the house
started in 1799. It is filled
with period antiques, and
offers a glimpse of life in early
19th-century New Orleans.
Next to Pitot House is Cabrini
High School 3, a private school
named for Mother Frances
Cabrini who had originally
established an orphanage
on the spot in 1905. Mother
Cabrini later became America’s 7 One of several impressive Victorian mansions on Esplanade Avenue
first canonized saint.
Cross the bayou on the steel and steps here abouts provide centuries. If you would like a
pedestrian bridge 4 directly good places to sit and admire break, on Ponce de Leon Street
across from the school, then the wildlife and views. Fish 8 you will come across a
A V E N U E turn left to wander along the often leap from the water cluster of charming restaurants,
cafés, and small boutiques.
after insects and, in the cooler
grassy bank of the bayou until
M O S S ST. LOUIS Take the bridge to the other plunge down Heritage Fest is held at the
located at Dumaine Street 5.
large pelicans, which
New Orleans Jazz and
1 you arrive at the next bridge months, the bayou attracts Near here, each spring, the
CEMETERY side of the bayou and turn dramatically to scoop Fair Grounds Race Course
q left again, continuing along their own meals from 9 (see p43 and p128). Two
the opposite bank.
blocks farther on the left,
the water.
M O S S S T E S P L A N A D E A V E Small concrete From Ursulines is Our Lady of the Holy
Rosary 0, a Catholic
embankments
to Esplanade
church built in 1925
M Y S T E R Y S T R E E T Ursulines Avenue 6 after bayou. One block further up on
St. Louis cemetery
Street, turn right on Bell
columns and a dome
2 9 Strolling on along Moss q An angel at prayer, with Classical
B a
0 Street, which becomes that’s visible from the
M O S S
3 M A U R E P A S S T R E E T one block. This broad avenue, the right, is St. Louis Cemetery
#3 q (see p128), which has
named for the order of nuns
S T R E E T
y o u S t . J o h n
who came to New Orleans well-maintained examples of
WILSON STREET 4 8 P O N C E D E L E O N S T R E E T from France in 1727, New Orleans’ distinctive tombs
was laid out around
and funerary art. Continue
HARDING T G R A N D R O U T E E S P L A N A D E A V E N U E 1860 after the along Esplanade Avenue,
STREET
marshy lands
crossing Bayou St. John again,
E S T J O H N surrounding the to end the walk back at
E
T S T R S T R E E T Today, all kinds Beauregard Circle.
bayou were drained.
M O S S S T R E E M O S S D E S O T O S T R E E T N . L O P E Z S T R E E T D E S O T O S T Victorian houses,
7
of beautiful
H A G A N S T
N . R E N D O N
homes can be
seen here, including
bungalows, and
cottages trimmed with
D U M A I N E S T
5 U R S U L I N E S A V E N U E gingerbread woodwork.
M O S S S T 6 KENNEDY Three blocks down
Ursuline Avenue, turn
B E L L S T R E E T
M O S S S T D U M A I N E S T R E E T S T . P H I L I P S T R E E T PLACE at a small triangular
left on N. Lopez Street
H A G A N S T R E E T
park and walk three
blocks to Esplanade
Avenue 7. Turn left
here and walk up this
impressive avenue, with
its mansions that were
0 meters 200 built in the late 19th 0 The altar and dome of Our Lady of the Holy
0 yards 200 and early 20th Rosary church
For keys to symbols see back flap The Louisiana State Capitol at sunset
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Beyond


new orleans





Exploring Beyond
New Orleans 142–143
Lower Mississippi
Plantations 144–147
Baton Rouge 148–149
Upper Mississippi
Plantations 150–153
Cajun Country 154–159










































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BEY OND NE W ORLEANS  141

BEYOND NEW ORLEANS

The countryside around New Orleans is a land of history and tradition.
The beautiful plantations of the Mississippi River, Baton Rouge (the capital of
Louisiana), and the famous Cajun Country are full of cultural and entertainment
interest. Venturing beyond New Orleans allows you to experience the unique
mixture of Louisiana’s cultures in all their various accents.


The lifeblood of New Orleans was, and still Governor’s Mansion. Other sights include
is, the Mississippi River. In the 18th and the Rural Life Museum, the World War II
19th centuries, the river banks were lined destroyer the USS Kidd, and the Louisiana
with large plantations producing all kinds State University. To the west of Baton
of commodities, including sugar, tobacco, Rouge lie the massive Atchafalaya Swamp
and cotton, which were shipped around and Cajun Country. The latter is famous for
the world via New Orleans. Today, only a its Francophone culture, Cajun and zydeco
handful of plantation homes survive along music, and its robust, spicy cuisine. Visitors
the River Road, but many are open to can explore Cajun culture in a number of
visitors, and some offer accommodation. towns in this area – Eunice, Lafayette, and
Prior to Hurricane Katrina, the state Opelousas – as well as along the bayous of
capital, metropolitan Baton Rouge, had New Iberia, and Avery Island. To get a feel
a population of about 600,000; however, for life on the bayous, you can attend a fais
as people resettled away from low-lying do-do (dance), try the local cuisine, or tour
areas, numbers rose to close to 700,000. the McIlhenny Tabasco Sauce Factory.
An oil-refining center, Baton Rouge has For an insight into the Cajun way of life,
several attractions associated with its role visitors can drift among age-old cypress
in state government, including the State trees in the swamps, or visit museums
Capitol, the Old State Capitol, and the and historic villages.





























Original Cajun house in the Acadian Village near Lafayette
Oak trees lining the entrance to Oak Alley plantation



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142  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

Exploring Beyond New Orleans

An excursion to the bayous and small towns a few hours away
from New Orleans will show visitors just how different the city
is from its Louisiana surroundings. Upriver, the Cajun heritage
is evident in the architectural styles, the food, and even the
language, since French is spoken almost everywhere. Only a
few hours’ drive from New Orleans, it is possible to visit more
than a dozen Creole and American plantations along the
Mississippi River and to get a taste of life as it used to be. The
city of Baton Rouge, the state capital, makes an interesting
modern counterpoint.
Vermilionville
Key This restored 19th-century
Cajun-Creole settlement
Interstate highway is peopled by costumed
State highway staff. Traditional ways of
life are enacted.
Major road
Main railway Clinton Jackson
Minor railway UPPER MISSISSIPPI
Alexandria PLANTATIONS
St Francisville
Ville Platte New Roads Mississippi Zachary Amite Tangipah o a
Bayou Nezpi que Mamou Port Barre Baker

Beaumont OPELOUSAS BATON ROUGE Livingston Hammond
Basile EUNICE L O U I S I A N A Denham Springs Covington
Church Ponchatoula
Point Sunset Springfield Hattiesburg
Mandeville
Plaquemine
Lake Mobile
Breaux Bridge Gonzales Maurepas Slidell
LAFAYETTE
Atchafalaya
White Castle Lake Pontchartrain
Broussard ST MARTINVILLE LOWER MISSISSIPPI
Donaldsonville PLANTATIONS Laplace
Lutcher
NEW IBERIA & Mississippi
Abbeville AVERY ISLAND Metairie
Hahnville Kenner New Orleans
Six Napoleonville Lac des Luling Gretna
Mile Lake Allemands
Jeanerette Baldwin
The Acadian Village, Lafayette Lake Verret
This is a fully reassembled Cajun bayou
community, with houses boasting traditional Thibodaux
Cajun furnishings.

Getting Around
All of the sights can be reached easily by
road from New Orleans. Interstate 10 (I-10)
connects the city directly to Baton Rouge.
Some exits from route I-10 also lead to the
River Road Plantations and to Cajun Country.
From New Orleans, several guided tours
to the bayous are available (see pp216–17), Cajun Music Hall of Fame, Eunice
which offer a convenient way to explore A country store dating from the 1930s now houses
life on the bayous. a museum of local music.




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Nottoway
Built in 1859, Neo-Classical Nottoway Plantation has 64
rooms. Today, it operates as a bed and breakfast and has
a fine restaurant.
Old State Capitol, Baton Rouge
This Gothic Revival castle, built in 1847,
was burned by the Union Army and
Jackson
Clinton repaired in 1882. Today, it houses a
UPPER MISSISSIPPI museum of local political history.
Alexandria PLANTATIONS
St Francisville
Ville Platte New Roads Mississippi Zachary Amite Tangipah o a
Bayou Nezpi que Mamou Port Barre Baker

Beaumont OPELOUSAS BATON ROUGE Livingston Hammond
Basile EUNICE L O U I S I A N A Denham Springs Covington
Church Ponchatoula
Point Sunset Springfield Hattiesburg
Mandeville
Plaquemine
Lake Mobile
Breaux Bridge Gonzales Maurepas Slidell
LAFAYETTE
Atchafalaya
White Castle Lake Pontchartrain
Broussard ST MARTINVILLE LOWER MISSISSIPPI
Donaldsonville PLANTATIONS Laplace
Lutcher
NEW IBERIA & Mississippi
Abbeville AVERY ISLAND Metairie
Hahnville Kenner New Orleans
Six Napoleonville Lac des Luling Gretna
Mile Lake Allemands
Jeanerette Baldwin Lake Verret
Thibodaux

0 kilometers 30
0 miles 15

Sights at a Glance
1 Lower Mississippi Plantations
2 Baton Rouge
3 Upper Mississippi Plantations
4 Eunice
5 Opelousas
6 Lafayette Swamp canal near Baton Rouge
7 St. Martinville Numerous canals cross the swamps, providing access
8 New Iberia and Avery Island to the area.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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144  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

1 Lower Mississippi Plantations

The River Road meanders along both banks of the
Mississippi River, changing route numbers as it goes.
It runs behind the levee, past petrochemical plants,
towering live oaks draped with Spanish moss, and
magnificent plantation homes. Creole families
once owned and operated the plantations located
between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Some of
the old plantation residences have been given a
new lease of life as small museums. Restored Plantations
Many plantations are carefully restored
and are open to the public as bed and
breakfast hotels.
Ponchatoula
Baton Rouge
16


P ass Manchac
61
Plaquemine Lake
Gonzales
1 Amite Maurepas
10

White Mississ ippi Lake
Castle Pontchartrain
Nottoway 55
The largest plantation in the area,
Nottoway boasts an impressive Donaldsonville 61
65 rooms.
Laplace
Lutcher
70
Kenner
Hahnville
Lac des
Lake Napoleonville Allemands Luling
Verret
90

1 Lafourche

Houmas House Thibodaux
The country’s largest sugar plantation in
the 19th century, this grand house now
displays a fine antiques collection.


Madewood Plantation
Key This Greek Revival style
plantation house is one
Freeway
of the best preserved in
Major road the area and is also a
Minor road bed and breakfast.



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L OWER MISSISSIPPI PLANT A TIONS  145







NEW ORLEANS


Locator Map


Oak Alley
A glorious double row of live oak trees lines the drive to this
mansion, which was built in 1837.
Ponchatoula
Baton Rouge
16


P ass Manchac
61
Plaquemine Lake
Gonzales
1 Amite Maurepas
10
San Francisco
White Lake “Steamboat Gothic” style is
Mississ ippi
Castle Pontchartrain
displayed in all its glory at
55 this plantation.
Donaldsonville 61
Laplace
Lutcher
70
Kenner
Hahnville
Lac des
Lake Napoleonville Allemands Luling
Verret
90

1 Lafourche

Thibodaux
Destrehan
This French-style mansion was
constructed with a combination
of wood and brick.


Laura
The slaves who worked this typical Creole- 0 kilometers 10
style plantation are the source for the Brer 0 miles 10
Rabbit folktales.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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146  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

Exploring Lower Mississippi Plantations original plantation have been
reduced by several levee setbacks
By 1850, two-thirds of America’s millionaires lived on over the years, and so today it
plantations located along the Great River Road. The economic stands very close to the road.
relationship between the plantations’ production and the
trade from New Orleans to the rest of the world made it one P Laura
2247 Hwy 18, Vacherie. Tel (225)
of the wealthiest regions of the nation. The treasures of this 265-7690. Open 10am–4pm daily.
glory are displayed in homes from New Orleans to Baton Closed major holidays. & 8
Rouge, with colorful French and Spanish Creole architecture ∑ lauraplantation.com
and beautiful natural surroundings. Revolutionary War veteran
Guillame Duparc was given a
large land grant and built the
classic raised Creole plantation
house in 1805. After he died,
four generations of women ran
the plantation. In 1891, Laura
Locoul sold the property in
order to marry and move with
her husband to St. Louis.
The plantation gained
notoriety for the stories told
by the French-speaking slaves,
later tenant farmers, living
there. Folklorist Alcée Fortier
first translated these Senegalese
stories about Brer Rabbit, which
later inspired Joel Chandler
Harris’s Uncle Remus and Brer
Destrehan plantation Rabbit books.
After being devastated by
E Destrehan cherubs, trailing vines, flying fire in 2004, the house was
13034 River Rd, Destrehan. Tel (985) parrots, and exquisite faux meticulously rebuilt under
764-9315. Open 9am–4pm daily. marbling and graining. the guidance of architectural
Closed major holidays. 8 & 7 Commissioned by Edmond’s historians. Guided tours are
∑ destrehanplantation.org son, Valsin, and his daughter- offered daily by reservation.
Charles Pacquet, a free man of in-law in 1860, they were so
color, built this home for Robert expensive that Valsin named P Oak Alley
de Logny in 1787. The original the house Saint Frusquin, from 3645 Hwy 18, Vacherie. Tel (225) 265-
Creole cottage was modified in the French sans fruscins, meaning 2151. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm daily;
1810 and 1840. Union troops “without a penny.” The name Nov–Feb: 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri,
housed freed slaves here during eventually became corrupted 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed Jan 1,
the Civil War (see pp20–21). to “San Francisco.” Valsin died Thanks giving, Dec 25, Mardi Gras. 8
before he could enjoy the & 7 ∑ oakalleyplantation.com
E San Francisco house he had imagined, and Oak Alley’s name comes from
2646 Hwy 44, River Rd, Garyville. shortly after the Civil War his the 28 magnificent live oaks
Tel (985) 535-2341. Open 9:30am– widow sold it to a Colonel that line the entrance to this
4pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Bougere. The grounds of the plantation home. They were
Thanksgiving, Dec 25, Mardi Gras. &
8 ∑ sanfranciscoplantation.org
The term “Steamboat Gothic”
has been applied to this ornate
plantation home built in
1856 for Edmond Bozonier
Marmillion. Originally it was
painted in flamboyant purples,
blues, and greens, and the
structure was decorated with
plenty of ornate grillwork and
gingerbread trim. The interiors
feature some splendid ceiling
paintings completed by
Dominique Canova (cousin of
the famous sculptor) featuring San Francisco plantation, the ultimate in “Steamboat Gothic” style




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L OWER MISSISSIPPI PLANT A TIONS  147


and then covered with
stucco to give the illusion of
masonry. In 1964, New Orleans
preservationist Naomi Marshall
saved the house from ruins
after it lay neglected for years.
She and her family then spent
13 years restoring the building
and grounds. It now serves as a
bed-and-breakfast inn, and the
site for many events, such as
classical music recitals, art fairs,
and holiday celebrations.
E Houmas House
40136 Hwy 942, River Rd, Darrow.
The Great White Ballroom at Nottoway plantation Tel (225) 473-9380. Open 9am–8pm
daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
planted about 300 years ago, gunboat officer, who asked ∑ houmashouse.com
even before the house was built that it be spared because he With its grand two-
for Jacques Telesphore Roman III had once been a guest of the story verandas and
in 1837. The house and grounds Randolphs. It now operates as monumental Tuscan
are so striking that it has been a bed and breakfast. columns, Houmas
used as a location for several House is one of the
movies, including The Long Hot E Madewood most recognizable
Summer (1985) and Interview 4250 Hwy 308, Napoleonville. plantation villas in
with the Vampire (1994). A slave Tel (985) 369-7151 or (800) 375- the South. As well as
gardener developed the first 7151. Open by appointment only. sprawling gardens,
commercial variety of pecan nut, Closed Jan 1, Thanks giving, Dec 25. there is also a second
the “Paper Shell,” on the property. 8 & ∑ madewood.com house, a two-story
Built in the prosperous times French Colonial-era
E Nottoway of pre-Civil War Louisiana, structure, which is
30970 Hwy 405, White Castle. Madewood is unusual among attached to the
Tel (225) 545-2730. Open 9am– south Louisiana plantation main house by a Embroidery
4pm daily. Closed Dec 25. 8 & houses. It is a classic carriageway. The stand
∑ nottoway.com Greek Revival house, main house, dating
This is the largest uninfluenced by the from 1840, is furnished in high
plantation on this stretch raised Creole villa style antebellum style with a fine
of the Mississippi. It was that predominates in collection of period antiques.
designed by architect the region. The first It survived the Civil War because
Henry Howard to significant building its Irish owner, John Burnside,
accommodate John by architect Henry claimed immunity as a British
Hampden Randolph, Howard, it was erected subject. A wealthy merchant,
his wife, and a family Antique clock between 1840 and Burnside amassed several sugar
of 11 children, and at Nottoway 1848 for sugar planter mills and at the end of the
completed in 1859. Thomas Pugh using 19th century, this plantation
Randolph was a wealthy sugar construction materials from his was producing as much as
planter originally from Virginia. holdings. Bricks for the exterior 20 million pounds (9 million kg)
The mansion occupies 53,000 were made on the plantation of sugar each year.
sq ft (18,000 sq m), with 64
rooms, 16 fireplaces, 200
windows, and 165 doors. At the
time it was built, it incorporated
some innovative conveniences
such as indoor plumbing, gas
lighting, and coal fireplaces.
In the Great White Ballroom,
which is 65 ft (22 m) long,
seven of Randolph’s daughters
celebrated their weddings. It is
the largest and most impressive
room in the house. It survived
the Civil War due to the
intervention of a Union Houmas House, a fine example of Greek Revival style




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148  BEY OND NE W ORLEANS

2 Baton Rouge at the Museum of Natural
Science in Foster Hall (225-578-
In 1719, the French established Baton Rouge as a fort 2855) are also worth seeing.
designed to control access to the Mississippi and the interior. The visitor information center
It was so named by Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville is at Dalrymple Drive and
(see p17), after he observed the spikes (red sticks) hung Highland Road.
with bloody fish heads that were arranged along the river E Magnolia Mound
bluffs. In 1762, the French ceded it to the British. During the Plantation
American Revolution, the Spanish took the opportunity to 2161 Nicholson Dr. Tel (225) 343-4955.
seize the garrison, which remained under their control until Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 1–4pm
Sun. Closed public hols. & ∑ brec.
1810. After that, the local American population took the fort org/magnoliamound
and proclaimed the Republic of West Florida. The area was John Joyce built this plantation
claimed for the United States and it was incorporated into home in 1791. In the 19th
the Union in 1817. It has been the state capital since 1849. century, it stood at the center
of a 900-acre farm. The building
P Louisiana State University has been carefully restored to
Nicholson Drive btw Highland Rd and reflect the antebellum era.
W Chimes St. Tel (225) 578-8654.
∑ lsu.edu P Old Governor’s Mansion
With its 31,000 students, this is 502 North Blvd. Tel (225) 387-
the state’s flagship university. 2464. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri.
The campus is attractively Closed public hols. & 8 only
landscaped and boasts some (last tour 3pm). 7
unique features. In the north- ∑ oldgovernorsmansion.org
west corner, for example, two Governor Huey Long had
mounds rise some 20 ft (6 m) this mansion built in 1930.
high. Archaeo logists believe that He modeled it on the White
they are 5,000-year-old Native House, even down to the office,
American mounds built before which is a smaller version of
the first Egyptian pyramids. the Oval Office. The building
The university’s sports teams has been carefully restored,
are some of the hottest tickets and the rooms have even been
The graceful interior of Louisiana Old in college sports. In baseball, repainted in their original colors,
State Capitol the Tigers have won national some of which are outlandish;
titles for several consecutive Huey Long apparently loved
P Louisiana Old years, and the enthusiasm hot pinks, purples, and greens,
State Capitol generated by the football team which appear in several
100 North Blvd. Tel (225) 342-0500. is legendary. bathrooms. Many of the
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat. The university also has two furnishings in the library and
Closed public hols. & 7 cutting edge research facilities; the master bedroom are
∑ louisianaoldstatecapitol.org the Pennington Biomedical original to the house. There is
James Harrison Dakin designed Research Center, devoted to also memorabilia from other
this striking castle-like building nutritional medicine, and the governors, including the singing
in 1847. William Freret conceived Center for Microstructures governor, Jimmie Davis, who
the soaring iron spiral staircase, and Devices. The collections wrote You Are my Sunshine.
installed during a renovation
in 1882, which winds from the
foyer toward the stained-glass
dome. It was here, in the House
Chamber, that Louisiana’s state
representatives voted in 1861
to secede from the Union.
Seven decades later, in 1929,
impeachment proceedings were
begun here against Huey
“Kingfish” Long. Today, this
magnificent building serves as
the state’s Center for Political and
Governmental History. Visitors
can view and listen to many of
the state’s colorful political
orators expressing their views. Facade of the Greek Revival Old Governor’s Mansion




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