(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sydney

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Sydney






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Sydney






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Sydney





















Main Contributors Ken Brass, Kirsty McKenzie &
Deborah Soden














































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Produced by The Watermark Press, Sydney,
Australia Introducing Sydney Area by
Project Editor Siobhán O’Connor
Art Editor Claire Edwards Sydney Area
Editors Robert Coupe, Leith Hillard,
Jane Sheard
Designers Katie Peacock, Claire Ricketts, Great Days The Rocks
Noel Wendtman in Sydney 10 and Circular Quay 64
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Senior Editor Fay Franklin Putting Sydney on the City Centre 80
Senior Art Editor Jane Ewart Map 14
Senior Revisions Editor Esther Labi Darling Harbour
Contributors The History of Sydney 20 and Surry Hills 92
Anna Bruechert, John Dengate,
Carrie Hutchinson, Graham Jahn, Sydney at a Glance 34 Botanic Garden
Kim Saville, Susan Skelly, Deborah Soden
and The Domain 104
Photographers Sydney Through the
Max Alexander, Simon Blackall, Michael
Nicholson, Rob Reichenfeld, Alan Williams Year 50 Kings Cross
and Darlinghurst 118
Illustrators
Richard Draper, Stephen Gyapay, Alex Lavroff Sporting Sydney 54
Associates, The Overall Picture, Robbie Polley Paddington 124
The City Shoreline 58
Printed and bound in China
First published in the UK in 1996 Further Afield 130
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL Four Guided Walks 142
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999,
2000, 2001, 2002 (twice), 2003, 2005,
2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017
Copyright 1996, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the
prior written permission of
the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library
ISBN 978-0-2412-7868-0
Sydney Harbour Bridge
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page Sydney Opera House, photographed from the east, shortly after sunrise Front cover image Sydney Opera House with
Sydney Harbour Bridge in the background Back cover image Sydney panorama from Mosman Bay



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Contents







Beyond Sydney Travellers’ Survival Guide
Needs

Exploring Beyond Where to Stay 170 Practical Information 218
Sydney 154
Where to Eat and Travel Information 228
Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Drink 180
Chase 156 Sydney Street Finder 238
Shops and Markets 198
Hawkesbury Tour 158 General Index 250
Entertainment in
Hunter Valley 160 Sydney 208 Acknowledgments 263
Blue Mountains 162 Transport Map
Inside Back Cover
Southern Highlands
Tour 164
Royal National Park 166












Detail of bench mosaic at Bondi Beach Three Sisters rock formation, Blue Mountains


















Sydney Opera House







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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from sightseeing section, covering all the sights,
your visit to Sydney. It provides both expert with photographs, maps and drawings.
recommendations and detailed practical Further Afield looks at sights just outside
information. Introducing Sydney locates the the city centre while Beyond Sydney
city geographically, sets modern Sydney in explores other places close to Sydney.
its historical and cultural context and Carefully researched tips on hotels,
describes events through the entire year. restaurants, pubs and entertainment
Sydney at a Glance is an overview of the venues are found in Travellers’ Needs.
city’s main attractions, including a feature The Survival Guide contains useful practical
on the city shoreline and Sydney’s best advice on everything from banking and
beaches. Sydney Area by Area is the main local currency to public transport.


Finding your way around the sightseeing section
The centre of Sydney has been for easy refer ence. Every chapter Area Map. Detailed information
divided into six sightseeing opens with a list of the sights for each sight is presented in
areas. Each area has its own described. All sights are numerical order, making it easy
chapter and is colour-coded numbered and plotted on an to locate within the chapter.


Each area has
SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  65
THE ROCKS AND colour-coded
CIRCULAR QUAY thumb tabs. A suggested route
Circular Quay, once known as Semi-Circular annual Vivid Sydney festival (see pp32–3), takes in the most
Quay, is often referred to as the “birth place when many of the buildings are bathed in
of Australia”. It was here, in January 1788, colour for spectacular light shows. The Rocks interesting and
that the First Fleet landed its human freight area offers visitors a taste of Sydney’s past,
of convicts, soldiers and offi cials, and the but it is a far cry from the time, little more
new British col ony of New South Wales was than 100 years ago, when most inhab itants attractive streets
declared. Sydney Cove became a rallying lived in rat-infested slums and gangs ruled A locator map shows
point whenever a ship arrived bringing its streets. Now scrubbed and polished, The
much-needed supplies from “home”. The Rocks forms part of the colour ful promenade in the area.
Quay and The Rocks remain a focal point from the Sydney Harbour Bridge to the where you are in
for New Year’s Eve revels, and during the spectacular Opera House.
Restaurants pp186–7 relation to other areas
1 Altitude 11 The East Chinese Restaurant 20 Opera Bar
2 ARIA 12 The Glenmore 21 Pei Modern in the city centre.
3 The Australian Heritage Hotel 13 Ground Control Café 22 Quay
4 Bennelong 14 Heritage Belgian Beer Café 23 Saké Restaurant & Bar
5 The Bridge Room 15 Lotus Dumpling Bar 24 Tapavino
6 Cabrito Coffee Traders 16 MCA Café 25 Ventuno
7 Café Nice 17 The Morrison Bar & 26 Vintage Café
8 Café Sydney Oyster Room 27 Young Alfred
9 El Camino Cantina 18 Nelson’s Brasserie
10 The Cut Bar & Grill 19 Neptune Palace Locator map
DAWES
POINT DAWES POINT PARK See also Street Finder, THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  67
map 1
66  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA
HICKSON ROAD
L O W E R F O R T S T R E E T B R A D F I E L D H I G H W AY HICKSON ROAD Street-by-Street: The Rocks 3 The Rocks
Discovery Museum
R O A D GEORGE STREET Named for the rugged cliffs that were once its dominant Key episodes in
T O WNS PLACE
H ICKSO N THE feature, this area has played a vital role in Sydney’s The Rocks’ history
W I N D M I L L
MILLERS S T are illustrated by this
POINT ROCKS T development. In 1788, the First Fleeters under Governor museum’s col lection
A R G Y L E P L A C E CUMBERLAND STREET Phillip’s command erected makeshift buildings here, with of maritime images THE ROCKS AND BOTANIC
CIRC U LAR QUAY EAST WALKWAY
A R G Y L E S T R E E GARDEN
and other artifacts. CIRCULAR QUAY AND THE
OBSERVATORY 12 •23 S T R E T E Sydney the convicts’ hard labour used to establish more permanent DOMAIN
PARK G E O R G E Cove structures in the form of rough-hewn streets. The Argyle
The clock on the Customs House building, decorated with sea monsters and tridents H I G H S T R E E T H I G H L A N E S T R E E T Cut, a road carved through solid rock using just hammer Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 1
M A C Q U A R I E S T R E E T
CIRCULAR QUAY and chisel, took 18 years to build, beginning in 1843. By 1900,
ST
Sights at a Glance K E N T S T R E E T TOLL POINT C A H I L L E X P R E S S W AY The Rocks was overrun with disease; the street now known q Hero of Waterloo
GLOUCESTER
as Suez Canal was once Sewer’s Canal. Today, the area is still
Circular
Historic Streets and Buildings u Customs House p National Trust Centre H I C K S O N R O A D Quay rich in colonial history Hero of Lying beneath this historic
i Macquarie Place
1 Campbell’s Storehouses Churches H A R R I N G T O N STREET and colour. Waterloo pub is a tunnel originally
2 George Street Museums and Galleries 9 Garrison Church C U M B E R L A N D S T R E E T G E O R G E S T R E ET P I T T S T R E E T REIBY PLACE PHILLIP STREET used for smuggling.
6 Cadman’s Cottage 3 The Rocks Discovery Museum a St Philip’s Church JENKINS STREET GLO UCESTER ST LOFTUS STREET YOUNG L OWER FOR T STREE T
8 Argyle Stores 4 Susannah Place Museum Theatres and Concert Halls DALLEY STREET
0 Sydney Observatory 5 Sailors’ Home w Wharf Theatres GROSVENOR ST B R I D G E S T R E E T
q Hero of Waterloo 7 Pylon Lookout r Sydney Opera House pp76–9 LANG PARK 0 metres 500 A R G Y L E S T R E E T B R A D F I E L D H I G H W A Y
e Sydney Harbour Bridge pp72–3 y Justice and Police Museum 0 yards 500 W AT S O N R O A D TRINITY AVENUE
t Writers’ Walk o Museum of Contemporary Art JAMISON STREET
For keys to symbols see back flap
U P P E R F O R T S T R E E T The Rocks Market is a hive
B R A D F I E L D H I G H W A Y S T R E E T offering an eclectic range
of activity every weekend,
of craft items and jewellery
C U M B E R L A N D S T R E E T W A L K H I C K S O N utilizing Australian icons
from gum leaves to koalas.
Introduction 0 . Sydney Observatory G L O U C E S T E R
1to the area The first European struc ture P L A Y F A I R S T R E E T G E O R G E S T R E E T
on this prominent site was
a windmill. The present
museum holds some of
the earliest astro nomical
For easy reference, the sights instruments brought H A R R I N G T O N S T R E E T A R G Y L E S T R E E T
to Australia.
are numbered and located 9 Garrison Church C I R C U L A R Q U A Y W E S T John Cadman, government coxswain,
6 . Cadman’s Cottage
resided in what was known as the
Columns in this church are
Coxswain’s Barracks with his family.
on an area map. This map decorated with the insignia G E O R G E S T R E E T His wife Elizabeth was also a significant
figure, believed to be the first woman
of British troops stationed
here until 1870. Australia’s
to vote in New South Wales, a right
also shows bus terminals, first prime minister was Argyle Cut she insisted on.
educated next door.
ferry boarding points, Suez Canal
RiverCat boarding points o . Museum of Walkway along Passenger Terminal 0 metres 100 100
Contemporary Art
The Overseas
The Classical façade belies the
is where some of the
0 yards
contemporary nature of the
world’s luxury cruise
and Sydney Trains stations. Australian and inter national Circular Quay West their stay in Sydney. Key Suggested route
art displayed in an ever-
liners berth during
foreshore
changing programme.
The sights are also shown
on the Sydney Street 066-067_EW_Sydney.indd All Pages 28/05/2015 12:29
Street-by-Street map This gives
Finder on pages 240–45. 2a bird’s eye view of the most
important parts of each sightseeing
area. The numbering of the sights
ties in with the area map and the
fuller descriptions on the pages
that follow.
The area shaded pink is shown in
greater detail on the Street-by-Street
map on the following pages.
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Sydney Area Map 18  INTRODUCING SY DNEY PUT TING SY DNEY ON THE M AP  19
The coloured areas shown on this Central Sydney BRADFIELD HIGHWAY Sydney Harbour Fort
Bridge
This guide divides inner Sydney into six distinct
HICKSON ROAD
ROA D
areas, each of which has its own chapter.
map (see pp18–19) are the six main Most city sights are contained in these areas. THE ROCKS AND HICKSON Sydney Opera House Denison Art Gallery of New
LOWER FORT ST
The Rocks and Circular Quay is the oldest part
of inner Sydney, while the City Centre is today’s CIRCULAR QUAY Sydney South Wales
CUMBERLAND ST
The city’s premier art gallery
sightseeing areas – each covered central business district. The Botanic Garden H I C K S O N ARGYLE ST PARK Museum of Cove R O A D is set in the middle of
and The Domain form a green oasis almost in
OBSERVATORY
parkland in the Botanic
the heart of the city. To the west lies Darling
Garden and The Domain (see
CIRCULAR QUAY
Harbour, which includes Sydney’s Chinatown, and Contemporary Art C A H I L L E X P R E S S WAY MACQUARIE STREET pp104–17). It houses a fine
TOLL
by a full chapter in Sydney Area Surry Hills, home to buzzing bars and eclectic R O A D K E N T S T R E E T POINT GROSVENOR PLACE GROSVENOR ST GEORGE ST PITT STREET Circular Quay ROYAL F a rm Cove M A C Q U A R I E S collection of early Au
Aboriginal and European art.
shopping. To the east are Kings Cross and
Darlinghurst, areas known for their
by Area (pp62–151). The six areas are popular cafés and restaurants, and C L A R E N C E S T R E E T B R I D G E S T R E E T PHILLIP ST MACQUARIE STREET BOTANIC BOTANIC M R S
Museum
GARDEN
of Sydney
Paddington, a district that still
retains its 19th-century character.
GARDEN AND
highlighted on other maps through­ Australian National K E N T S T R E E T CENTRE P I T T S T R E E T G E O R G E MARTIN PLACE STREET THE THE DOMAIN CO WPER WHARF ROADWAY
Wynyard
CITY
Y O R K S T R E E T
New South
Maritime Museum WILD LIFE K I N G S T R E E T CASTLEREAGH ELIZABETH ST Martin Place DOMAIN ART G A LLERY ROAD Art Gallery of CHALLIS AVE
out the book. In Sydney at a Glance Pyrmont Bay Sydney Aquarium S US S EX M A R K E T S T R E E T Sydney Tower ST JAMES ROAD St James NICHOLSON ST B R O U G H A M S T R E E T V I C T O R I A S T R E E T HUGHES ST MACLEAY STRE
Sydney Zoo
Wales
SEA LIFE
S T R E E T
AVE
(pp34–49), for example, they help P Y R M O N T S T R E E T Convention Cockle Bay S T R E E T Town Hall PITT STREET E L I Z A B E T H HYDE COLLEGE STREET COOK PARK PHILLIP PARK CROWN ST B O U R K E S T F
GEORGE STREET
KENT STREET
Sydney Harbour, it is at the northern end
of the Kings Cross and Darlinghurst area
P A R K S T R E E T
WILLIAM ST Kings Cross DARLINGHURST ROAD WARD AVEN UE (see pp118–23).
locate the top sights, including art H A R R I S S T R E E T H ARBOUR Museum KINGS CROSS AND
PARK Australian
S T
B AT H U R S T S T R E E T
WILLIAM S T R E E T
K INGS CROSS ROAD
CRAIGEND
Exhibition Centre STREET L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T Museum LIVERPOOL ST PALMER STREET B O U R K E S T D I S T R I B U T O R E A S T E R N DARLINGHURST STREET


galleries and museums, significant Lord Nelson Hotel P I E R S T RE ET GOULBURN STREET C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T O X F O R D CROWN FORBES STREET LIVERPOOL STREET R O A D WOMERAH AVENUE
DARLING
This traditional pub in
The Rocks (see pp64–79) first Powerhouse HARBOUR S T R E E T S T R E E T WENTWORTH AVENUE S T R E E T ST BURTON ST D A R L I N G H U R S T
Museum
opened its doors in 1834.
architecture and the best parks Its own specially brewed H A R R I S S T R E E T ULTIMO ROAD Paddy's Markets H AY S T R E E T G E O R G E Capitol Square P I T T ELIZABETH STREET CAMPBELL STREET SQUARE TAYLOR
beers are available on tap.
and reserves. They are also used RAILWAY SQUARE STREET Central Railway EDDY AVE Central FOVEAUX ST REET RILEY STREET CROWN STREET SOUTH DOWLING STREET SELWYN STREET O X F O R R O A D D S T R E E T ORMOND STREET STAFFORD STR
A L B I O N S T R E E T
Station
to show some of the top shopping Key Major sight REGENT STREET LEE CHALMERS STREET SURRY M O O R E G RE E N S P A R K PADDINGTON O X F O R D U N D E R W O O D PADDINGTON STREET Centennial Park
HILLS
RENNY STREET
Central Railway Station
This green expanse in
areas (pp200–1). Sydney Trains station DEVONSHIRE STREET PARK R O A D ALLIANZ STADIUM L E I N S T E R M O O R E G O R D O N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Q U E E N S T R E E T Paddington
Light Rail station
was once part of a
Coach station Kippax Lake S T R E E T P A R K R O A D JAMES STREET sanddune system
Ferry boarding point Queen Victoria Building MOORE D RI V E R A V E N U E O X F O R D S T R E E T Botany Bay in the south.
that extended from
This Romanesque-style former
GREGORY AVENUE
Tourist information produce market, built in the 1890s, SYDNEY CRICKET L A N E
Hospital with casualty unit forms part of a fine group of Victorian- GROUND CENTENNIAL
Police Station era buildings in the City Centre THE ENTERTAINMENT C E N T E N N I A L L A N G R O A D PARK
retains many original features,
Church (see pp80–91). Now a shopping mall, it QUARTER
Synagogue including its roof statues and stained- 0 metres 0 yards 250 250
Mosque glass windows.
Finding your way around the sightseeing section
Façades of important Numbers refer to each sight’s
buildings are often position on the area map and
pictured to help you its place in the chapter.
recognize them quickly.
Practical information lists all the
information you need to visit every
68  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  69
1 Campbell’s 2 George Street colony must have looked like, Jack Mundey, imposed a
Storehouses Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, characterized by cobbled pave- con servation “green ban” on sight, including a map reference to
7–27 Circular Quay West; The Rocks. 432, 433, 434. ments, narrow side streets, The Rocks (see p33), temporar ily
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, the Street Finder (pp240–45).
halting all demolition and
warehouses, bond stores, pubs
432, 433, 434. 7 Formerly the preserve of and shop fronts that reflect the redevelopment work.
area’s maritime history. Even
wealthy merchants, sailors
In 1798, the Scottish merchant and the city’s working class, the Museum of Contemporary
Robert Campbell sailed into George Street today is a popular Art (see p75), constructed during 5 Sailors’ Home
Sydney Cove and soon attraction with visitors to the 1950s, began its life as the 106 George St, The Rocks.
established himself as a Sydney, who are drawn to its Maritime Services Board’s Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer,
founding father of commerce restaurants, art galleries, administration offices. 339, 340, 431, 432, 433, 434.
for the new colony. With trade museums, jewellery stores In the early 1970s, union Open to gallery customers only:
links already established in and craft souvenir shops. For workers placed “green bans” on 9am–7pm daily (to 10pm Thurs–Sat;
Calcutta, his business memento and gift shopping the demolition of The Rocks (see to 8.30pm Sun)
blossomed. In 1839, Campbell it is ideal, with few mass- p33). These streets had been
began constructing a private produced and tacky items, con sidered slum areas by the Built in 1864 to provide cheap
wharf and stores to house the and many unique pieces, government of the day. However lodgings for visiting seamen, the The visitors’ checklist
tea, sugar, spirits and cloth he as well as a great deal in the many of the buildings in George Sailors’ Home is now used as an
imported from India. Twelve way of modern Australian craft Street were restored and are art gallery. The building’s original
sandstone bays had been built of a very high calibre. now listed by the National Trust. north wing is Romanesque
by 1861 and a brick upper One of Sydney’s original The Rocks remains a vibrant part Revival in design. The L-shaped provides all the practical
storey was added in about 1890. thoroughfares – some say of the city, with George Street at wing that fronts onto George
Part of the old sea wall and 11 Australia’s first street – it ran from its hub. A market is held here Street was added in 1926.
of the original stores still remain. the main water supply, the Tank every weekend, when part of Old-style Australian products at the corner shop, Susannah Place At the time it was built, the information needed to plan
The area soon took on the Stream, to the tiny community the street is closed off to traffic Sailors’ Home was a welcome
name of Campbell’s Cove, in the Rocks, and was known as (see p203). history of the The Rocks, examines this working-class alternative to the many seedy
which it retains to this day. Spring Street. In 1810 it was including displays on its first domestic history, evoking the inns and brothels in the area, your visit.
Today, the bond stores renamed in honour of George III. 3 The Rocks Aboriginal inhabitants, the living conditions of its inhabi- saving sailors from the perils
contain several harbourside George Street today runs all the Discovery Museum Cadigal people, and Sydney’s tants. Rather than re-creating a of “crimping”. “Crimps” would
restaurants catering for a range way from the Harbour Bridge to maritime history and traditions single period, the museum tempt newly arrived men into
of tastes, from contemporary the Central Railway Station 2–6 Kendall Lane, The Rocks. in the 18th and 19th centuries. retains the many renovations lodgings and bars providing
to Chinese and Italian. It is a north of Chinatown. Map 1 B2. Tel 9240 8680.  Circular A unique collection of made by successive tenants. much-sought-after entertain-
delightful area in which to Many 19th-century buildings Quay. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, 432, arch aeological artifacts, such as Built for Edward and Mary ment. While drunk, the sailors
relax with a meal and watch remain, such as the 1844 433, 434. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. an illegal alcohol still, and Riley, who arrived from Ireland would be sold on to departing
the bustling boats in the Counting House at No. 43, the Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. hist orical images dating from the with their niece Susannah in ships, waking miles out at sea
harbour go by. The pulleys that Old Police station at No. 127 ∑ therocks.com early establishment 1838, these solid and returning home in debt.
were used to raise cargo from (1882), and the Russell Hotel at of the European houses have Sailors used the home until
the wharf can still be seen on No. 143 (1887). This museum is in a restored colony to the basement kitchens 1980, when it was adapted SY DNEY OPER A HOUSE  77
76  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA
the outside, near the top of But it is The Rocks end that 1850s sandstone coach house, postwar era, helps and back yard for use as a puppet theatre.
the building. most reflects what the early and has exhibitions on the visitors explore outhouses. The house is now home to the
the eventful and Connections to Billich Gallery, a privately owned
r Sydney Opera House
colourful history Billy Tea on sale at the Susannah piped water and art gallery. In the basement is . Concert Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of this neighbour- Place shop sewerage had the Sailors Thai restaurant (see This is the largest
hood. The displays probably arrived p187), one of Sydney’s top hall, with seating for Practical Information
No building on earth looks like the Sydney Opera House.
are enhanced by interactive by the mid-1850s. The museum dining spots. 2,679. It is used for Bennelong Point. Map 1 C2. Tel
Popularly known as the “Opera House” long before the building
high-tech touch screens and sur veys the houses’ was complete, it is, in fact, a complex of theatres and halls linked symphony, choral, jazz, 9250 7111. Box Office: 9250 7777.
folk and pop concerts,
Open per formances. 7 limited
audiovisual exhibits, bringing development over the years, beneath its famous shells. Its birth was long and complicated. chamber music, opera, (9250 7777). 8 9am–5pm daily
the history of the area alive. from wood and coal to gas and Many of the construction problems had not been faced before, dance and everything (except Good Fri, 25 Dec); phone in
electricity, which enables the from body building to advance (9250 7250). & 0 -
4 Susannah Place visitor to gauge the gradual resulting in an architectural adventure which lasted 14 years fashion parades. = ∑ sydneyoperahouse.com
(see p79). An appeal fund was set up, eventually raising
lightening of the burden of
Museum domestic labour. $900,000, while the Opera House Lottery raised the balance Transport
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. The terrace, including a of the $102 million final cost. As well as being the city’s most @ Sydney Explorer, 324,
Map 1 B2. Tel 9241 1893.  Circular cor ner grocer’s shop, escaped popular tourist attraction, the Sydney Opera House is also one . Dame Joan 438, 440. g Circular Quay.
Quay, Wynyard. @ Sydney Explorer, the wholesale demolitions that of the world’s busiest performing arts centres. Sutherland Theatre  Circular Quay.
431, 432, 433, 434. Open 2–5pm daily. occurred after the outbreak of Mainly used for opera and ballet,
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 8 bubonic plague in 1900, as well this 1,507-seat theatre is big
as later clearings of land to Dining under the Sails
such as Verdi’s Aida.
This 1844 terrace of four brick make way for the Sydney enough to stage grand operas The restaurant at the top of the
and sandstone houses has a Harbour Bridge and the Cahill Monumental Steps is one of several bar and
rare history of continuous Expressway. In the 1970s, it was dining offerings in the famous building.
domestic occupancy from the saved once again when the
The museum now housed here
under the leadership of activist
Umbrellas shade the terrace restaurants overlooking the waterfront at Campbell’s Storehouses 1840s right through to 1990. Builders Labourers’ Feder ation, Interior of the Sailors’ Home, viewed from
an upper level
Detail of The Possum Dreaming (1988)
068-069_EW_Sydney.indd All Pages The mural in the Dame Joan Sutherland Theatre’s
28/05/2015 12:34
northern foyer is by Michael Tjakamarra Nelson,
an indigenous Australian painter from Papunga,
in the central Australian desert.
Opera House Walkway
Extensive public walkways
around the building offer
the visitor views from many
different vantage points.
KEY
1 The Dame Joan Sutherland . The Roofs
Theatre ceiling and walls are painted Although apoc ryphal, the theory that Jørn
black to focus attention on the stage. Utzon’s arched roof design came to him while
2 The Monumental Steps and Northern Foyers peeling an orange is appealing. The highest
point is 67 m (221 ft) above sea level.
forecourt are used for outdoor With spectacular views over the
performances. harbour, the Utzon Room and
3 The Playhouse, seating almost the large northern foyers of the Detail of Utzon’s Tapestry (2004)
Dame Joan Sutherland Theatre
Jørn Utzon’s original design for this Gobelin-
400, is ideal for intimate productions and Concert Hall can be hired style tapestry, which hangs floor to ceiling in
while also able to present plays with for conferences, lunches, parties the remodelled Utzon Room, was inspired by
larger casts.
and weddings. the music of Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.
Detailed information 076-077_EW_Sydney.indd All Pages 28/05/2015 12:04
3on each sight
All the important sights in Stars indicate the features
no visitor should miss.
Sydney are described
indi vidually. They are listed in
order, following the numbering Sydney’s top sights Museums and
on the area map. Addresses 4galleries have colour­coded floorplans
and practical informa tion are to help you locate the most interesting
provided. The key to the symbols exhibits; historic buildings are dissected
used is on the back flap. to reveal their interiors.
006-007_EW_Sydney.indd 7 29/05/17 12:15 pm

008-009_EW_Sydney.indd 8 18/05/2015 11:28

INTRODUCING


SYDNEY





Great Days in Sydney 10–13
Putting Sydney on the Map 14–19

The History of Sydney 20–33
Sydney at a Glance 34–49
Sydney Through the Year 50–53
Sporting Sydney 54–57
The City Shoreline 58–61











































008-009_EW_Sydney.indd 9 30/06/2015 15:44

10  INTRODUCING SY DNEY
GREAT DAYS IN SYDNEY


Planning a one-day itinerary to take in all accessible by public transport. They are
the best that Sydney has to offer need designed to be flexible – you might choose
not be a challenge. The magnificent to leave out some stops or include other
harbour or beaches, as well as cultural and attractions that are nearby. Prices show
architectural highlights, would ideally be the cost for two adults or for a family of
included. These four itineraries offer a mix two adults and two children, including
of activities in different parts of Sydney, food and drinks.


Art and Opera

Two adults allow at least
A$160
• Colonial buildings on
Macquarie Street
• Aboriginal art at the
Yiribana Gallery
• The Royal Botanic Garden
• Sydney Opera House


Morning
Stroll down Macquarie Street
(see pp114–17), named after
Governor Lachlan Macquarie.
You can still see several of the
Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge by night buildings he commis sioned here.
Other architec tural gems include
Rocks area where you’ll find the the Hyde Park Barracks (see
Around the Harbour
convict-carved Argyle Cut and pp116–17) and St James’ Church
the military Garrison Church (see p117), both designed by
Two adults allow at least (see pp70–71). Cobble stoned convict James Greenway. The
A$110 alleys lead to the original old Rum Hospital now houses
• The view from Sydney docks of Old Sydney Town at the Sydney Mint (see p116) and
Harbour Bridge Campbell’s Store houses (see Parliament House (see pp114–
• A tour of The Rocks p68) and Cadman’s Cottage 15), where free tours run every
(see p70), Sydney’s oldest half hour. At the State Library
• Ferry ride to Manly
surviving residential dwelling. of NSW (see p114), admire the
• Sunset over the harbour Finish your stroll at Circular Quay. mosaic replica of the Tasman
Map, illustrating 17th-century
Afternoon voyages to Australia, and the
Morning Enjoy a classic ferry trip to majesty of the reading room.
Start early at an Australian icon, Manly (see p135). Once there,
the Sydney Harbour Bridge stroll down The Corso to the
(see pp72–3), built in 1932. Cross ocean beach or walk around
on the pedestrian walkway or, the headland (see pp148–9).
from $288 per person, let Buy fish and chips and eat
BridgeClimb guide you to the them on the beach, or try some
top of the steel arch bridge parasailing, boating or kayak ing,
(bookings are essential). Climbs activities that are on offer at
depart every ten minutes, and the jetty. Treat yourself to a
take 31/2 hours including beer at the Manly Wharf Hotel
orienta tion. The view at the top (see p197) where you can find
is well worth it. Recharge with a a window seat and watch
pit stop at one of the cafés in the sunset over the harbour.
the vicinity (see pp186–7); there’s End the day with the return
everything from pastries and ferry back to Circular Quay.
sandwiches to pizza, pasta and Take in the lights of the city Henry Moore sculpture outside the
ice cream. Explore the historic by the harbour as night falls. Art Gallery of New South Wales
Australian Aboriginal mural, by Danny and Jamie Eastwood



010-011_EW_Sydney.indd 10 29/05/17 12:18 pm

GREA T D A Y S IN SY DNEY  11


Afternoon
Across The Domain (see p109),
the Art Gallery of New South
Wales (see pp110–13) houses
both traditional and modern
Aboriginal art in the Yiribana
Gallery, the largest space
in the world devoted to the
art of Indigenous Australians.
Rest weary legs and enjoy
lunch in the gallery’s café (see
p191), then stroll along to the
scenic Mrs Macquaries Chair
(see p108) for a fine view across
the harbour before taking the
Fleet Steps down the hill into Giraffe at Taronga Zoo, on the foreshore of Sydney Harbour
the Royal Botanic Garden (see
pp106–7). On the other side do laps. Then stretch your legs Family Fun
of Farm Cove is Sydney Opera with the Bondi-to-Bronte section
House (see pp76–9). Stop in at of the famous cliff walk (see
the Opera Bar (see pp187), pp146–7). When you reach Bronte, Family of 4 allow at least A$365
then take a tour of the world- sit on the grass or sand with a • A spin through the city’s
famous building (booking is refreshing drink, then head to main streets
recommended). If you want Oxford Street, Paddington, to • Ferry and Sky Safari
to make an evening of it, last- begin browsing the glamor ous
minute tickets are sometimes boutiques. The renowned • Koalas, kangaroos and
available for an opera, play Paddington Markets (see p128) are platypuses at Taronga Zoo
or concert. open every Saturday. • Up high in Sydney Tower
Afternoon
Beaches and Browsing Take lunch in the leafy surrounds Morning
of beautiful Queen Street at Start with a stroll along Circular
Two adults allow at least Crème Café (see p194), then, if Quay, then head to Wharf 2
A$170 you wish, visit the store of where you can save time by
• Breakfast at Bondi Beach prominent designer Akira buying your zoo ticket before
Isogawa (see p205). Stop by the boarding a ferry to Taronga Zoo
• A clifftop walk
London Tavern (see p126), the (see pp136–7). Take the included
• Fashion, terraces and area’s oldest pub, before exploring Sky Safari cable car ride to the
galleries in Paddington the streets of ter raced houses main entrance for a bird’s eye
• Cocktails on the Finger near Five Ways. Admire the art view of the animals from above
Wharf at Olsen Irwin Gallery (No. 63 the tree canopy. At the entrance
Jersey Road), Australian Galleries you’ll find information on daily
(No. 15 Roylston Street) and events such as keeper talks,
Morning Martin Browne Contemporary feeding times and seal and bird
Have breakfast at Bondi Beach’s (No. 15 Hampden Street). Later, shows. As you explore the zoo,
Icebergs Bistro (see p197), at the have a drink at the Tilbury Hotel make sure you stop by all of
legendary Bondi Icebergs (on (see p194) in Woolloomooloo the native Australian animals,
weekends) or at the Crabbe Hole and cap off the day with a pie including monotremes, echidnas
(see p196). Admire the view and from Harry’s Café de Wheels and platypuses.
watch the die-hard swim mers (see p193) on the Finger Wharf.
Afternoon
Have lunch at the Taronga Food
Market or picnic on the concert
lawns, before heading back to
the wharf for the return ferry.
Finish the day at Sydney Tower
(see p85). Ride the lift to the
Sydney Tower Eye Observation
Deck and take in a virtual tour of
Sydney in the 4-D cinema. Use
a tele scope to spot the zoo and
other land marks as far away as
the Blue Mountains on a clear
Bathers enjoying the golden sand and surf at Bronte Beach day, or enjoy the sunset.
Australian Aboriginal mural, by Danny and Jamie Eastwood



010-011_EW_Sydney.indd 11 29/05/17 12:18 pm

12  INTRODUCING SY DNEY


2 Days in Sydney Bridge. Go up the sandstone
Pylon Lookout (p70) for an
overview of the bridge’s
• Take centre stage on creation and great views.
an Opera House tour
• See one of the world’s Day 2
biggest collections of Morning Combine shopping,
Aboriginal art history and architecture at the
immaculately restored Queen
• Journey across the
harbour to Manly Beach Victoria Building (p84), with
its stained-glass windows and
clocks. Head to Circular Quay,
Day 1 enjoying entertainment from
Morning Start your day with a The stunning interior of the beautifully waterfront street buskers.
behind-the-scenes tour at the restored Queen Victoria Building
Sydney Opera House (pp76–9). Afternoon Take a ferry ride to
Stand on the Concert Hall stage 3 Days in Sydney Manly, passing small harbour
and admire the stunning interior island Fort Denison and North
of this landmark before having Head (p135), where the harbour
breakfast in the “green room”. • Step aboard a replica starts. Wander along Manly
Afterwards, take the harbour of the Endeavour at Cove to dive with sharks at
foreshore walk to the Royal Darling Harbour Manly SEA LIFE Sanctuary
Botanic Garden (pp106–7), • Admire the splendour (p135). Have a sunset drink on
established as Australia’s first of the Queen Victoria Manly Wharf before returning.
European farm, and join a Building
guided tour of the exotic plants • Follow in convicts’ foot­ Day 3
and historic monuments. Buy a steps at Hyde Park Barracks Morning Stroll through Hyde
snack from the kiosk, and picnic Park (pp88–9). Walk along tree-
in the park. lined pathways and past the
Day 1 Archibald Fountain’s grand
Afternoon Exit the gardens near Morning Starting at Darling sculptures. Sink into a convict
the Art Gallery of New South Harbour, walk across the hammock at Hyde Park
Wales (pp110–13), and visit its Pyrmont Bridge (p100) to the Barracks (pp116–17), formerly
famous Yiribana Gallery, which Australian National Maritime home to 50,000 convicts. Later,
features one of the world’s largest Museum (pp96–7). Roam the peek inside the stately reading
collections of Aboriginal and wharves and explore historic room in the Mitchell Wing of the
Torres Strait Islander art. Stroll vessels, including a replica of State Library of NSW (p114).
along Macquarie Street to The Captain Cook’s Endeavour, then
Mint (p116), a former coining meet native Australian animals Afternoon Walk through The
factory and the oldest public at WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo (p99). Domain (p109) to the Art Gallery
building in the city centre. Then of New South Wales, and take a
head to Darling Harbour to watch Afternoon Catch a ferry to free tour of the gallery highlights.
the dugongs and sharks at SEA Circular Quay. Visit The Rocks Wind through the Royal Botanic
LIFE Sydney Aquarium (p98). Discovery Museum (pp68–9) Garden to the Sydney Opera
to learn about the area’s history. House. Admire the beauty of its
Day 2 Walk through The Rocks to the famous white sails with evening
Morning Catch a ferry from pedestrian deck of the Harbour drinks by the water’s edge.
Circular Quay to Manly (p135).
Stroll the shop-lined Corso
to the surf beach, and walk
the track to Shelly Beach
marine preserve. Have lunch
overlooking the water before
your return ferry trip.
Afternoon Walk to the
Museum of Contemporary
Art (p75), home to more than
4,000 modern artworks. Meander
through The Rocks’ historic
streets to the BridgeClimb head-
quarters for a three-and-a-half
hour adventure to the top of
the Harbour Bridge (pp72–3). Manly Cove, as viewed from Sydney Harbour National Park




012-013_EW_Sydney.indd 12 29/05/17 12:18 pm

GREA T D A Y S IN SY DNEY  13


5 Days in Sydney

• Watch the sun set from
the top of the Harbour
Bridge
• Feel the sand between
your toes at iconic
Bondi Beach
• Take in the rugged beauty
of the Blue Mountains

Day 1
Morning Start your day
watching harbour life at Circular
Quay, or get the adrenaline A bench decorated with a mosaic of lifeguards at Bondi Beach
flowing with a spin in a jet
boat. Walk to the Museum of Afternoon Take advantage of Day 4
Contemporary Art (see p75) and the park’s proximity to Oxford Morning Take a ferry to Sydney’s
admire the stunning works on Street and travel to Paddington zoo with a view, Taronga Zoo
display there. Enjoy lunch at one (pp126–7). Stroll down beautiful (pp136–7). Get the Sky Safari
of the area’s historic pubs. Queen Street with its antiques cable car to the top, and visit
stores, galleries and cafés, and some of the many fascinating
Afternoon Step back in time continue on to Bondi Beach animal enclosures on your way
with a stroll through The Rocks (p139). Take the stunning Bondi- back down. Be sure to stop by
and the dramatic Argyle Cut to-Bronte coastal walk and return the Australian Walkabout for
(p66), a passage cut through for a drink overlooking the ocean a close-up encounter with
sandstone by convicts. Then join at one of the seaside cafés. kangaroos and koalas. Other
BridgeClimb for a twilight ascent highlights include elephants
of the Harbour Bridge, and Day 3 and Sumatran tigers. Don’t miss
watch the sun set over the city. Morning Shop till you drop in the QBE Free Flight Bird Show
the world’s most expensive retail and the Seal Show (see p137).
floor space, Pitt St Mall (pp 198 &
201). Window shop in the Afternoon Catch the ferry to
Victorian-style Strand Arcade Darling Harbour. Enjoy the quiet
(p86), which was completely solitude of the Chinese Garden
rebuilt after a fire in 1976. of Friendship (p100). Children
Afterwards, take in some culture will enjoy the Darling Quarter
with a tour of the majestic State playground, with water games,
Theatre (p84), with its exquisite rope climbing nets and slides.
architectural features, important Head back to Chinatown
artworks and the world’s (pp100–101) for a great-value
second-biggest chandelier. dinner and souvenir shopping.
Afternoon Escape the hustle Day 5
and bustle of the city, entering Morning to afternoon Venture
the Royal Botanic Garden from from the city with a day trip to
Macquarie Street to admire the Katoomba, in the Greater Blue
Conservatorium of Music Mountains World Heritage Area
The lake at the peaceful Chinese Garden of (p108), a striking Neo-Gothic (pp162–3). Hire a car, take a train
Friendship, in Darling Harbour building housing one of the or join a bus tour to experience
nation’s most prestigious music the rugged beauty of the vast
Day 2 colleges. Afterwards, head to Australian bush. Visit Echo Point
Morning Head to Hyde Park for stately Government House lookout for spectacular views of
a game of chess on the giant (p108), the former residence the iconic Three Sisters rock
outdoor board near St James of the Governor of New South formation (p162) and learn its
Station, stroll to the grand Wales. En route, look out for noisy Aboriginal dreamtime legend.
Archibald Fountain (p88), flying foxes (large bats) and cock- Take the Giant Stairway down
featuring Apollo, then visit the a toos. Exit near the Art Gallery of to the valley floor, and glide
Anzac Memorial reflection New South Wales, and enjoy free between clifftops on the glass-
pool (p88) and museum entry to its impressive collec tions. floored Scenic Skyway cablecar
commem orating those Make your way to the Opera (www.scenicworld.com.au)
who served in war. House for an evening show. before returning to Sydney.




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14  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Putting Sydney on the Map

Situated on Australia’s eastern coastline within the state of New
South Wales, Sydney spreads with the rare luxury of space – Arafura Sea Torres Strait
Cape York
3,700 sq km (1,430 sq miles) in all – around what is considered Bathurst
one of the world’s finest harbours, and west to the natural Island
barrier of the mountainous Great Dividing Range. n Darwin Arnhem Land
Greater Sydney is home to more than 5 million e a Timor Gulf of
people and, while it is not the nation’s capital, c Sea Katherine Groote Carpentaria
it is Australia’s oldest and largest city, as well O Eylandt
as its media and financial centre. Sydney Wyndham Cooktown
is also the main gateway to Australia Mornington
Island
and it enjoys good air, road and rail Ord Victoria

links to other major centres. n Broome Derby Cairns

I n d i a Fitzroy Tennant Creek Flin d ers Townsville
Port Hedland Proserpine
NOR T HERN
Karratha Mount Isa Mackay Great Bar r ier Reef
TERRI TOR Y P
QUEENSLAND a
Lake
Lake Mackay c
Newman Disappointment Longreach Rockhampton
Alice i
Springs Blackall Hervey Bay f
Carnarvon Diamantina Fraser i
Island
Uluru _ c
Shark Bay WESTERN (Ayers Rock)
(Monkey Mia) Charleville Maroochydore
AUSTRALIA O
Brisbane
Toowoomba c
Lake Coolangatta e
Geraldton Coober Eyre
Pedy Moree a
SOUTH AUSTRALIA Bourke n
Kalgoorlie-Boulder Lake Darling Coffs Harbour
Lake Torrens NEW
Perth Gairdner Broken SOUTH
Hill
Fremantle Ceduna Dubbo
Great W ALES Maitland Newcastle
Whyalla
Australian Bight Murray
Augusta Esperance Sydney
Cape Port Mildura Wollongong
Leeuwin Albany Lincoln Adelaide Wagga Wagga Canberra
AUSTRALIAN
NORTH Kangaroo
KOREA JAPAN Island VICTORIA CAPITAL
CHINA
PAKISTAN BHUTAN SOUTH P ACIFIC TERRITORY
KOREA
INDIA BURMA TAIWAN OCEAN Melbourne a
THAILAND PHILIPPINES Geelong e
CAMBODIA MARSHALL Key S
ISLANDS
MALDIVES MALAYSIA MICRONESIA King Bass Strait n
PAPUA International airport Island Flinders a
NEW Island
INDONESIA GUINEA Domestic airport
SOLOMON Devonport m
INDIAN ISLANDS Passenger ship terminal
OCEAN VANUATU Launceston s
FIJI Freeway or motorway
NEW T ASMANIA
A USTRALIA CALEDONIA T a
Highway
Southeast Asia NEW Railway Hobart
and the Pacific Rim ZEALAND
State boundary
014-015_EW_Sydney.indd 14 29/05/17 12:15 pm

PUT TING SY DNEY ON THE M AP  15


Greater Sydney and Environs
Palm
Beach
Torres Strait 9 2 3
Arafura Sea 36
Cape York
Bathurst 2 Hornsby 1 22 Mona
Vale
7
Island Penrith Blacktown 3 See next page
n Darwin Glenbrook 44 Chatswood Manly
a Timor Arnhem Land Gulf of 4 Parramatta 4
e Sea Carpentaria 7 55 Burwood 2 1
c Katherine Groote 31 Bondi
O Eylandt Cooktown Bankstown Sydney Maroubra
Airport
5
Wyndham 9
Mornington
5
Island Campbelltown Sutherland
Victoria Cronulla
Ord
Derby Cairns
Broome Fitzroy
n
a
I n d i Tennant Creek Flin d ers Townsville
Port Hedland Proserpine
NOR T HERN
Karratha Mount Isa Mackay Great Bar r ier Reef
TERRI TOR Y P
QUEENSLAND a
Lake
Lake Mackay c
Newman Disappointment Longreach Rockhampton
Alice i
Springs Blackall Hervey Bay f
Carnarvon Diamantina Fraser i
Island
Uluru _ c
Shark Bay WESTERN (Ayers Rock)
(Monkey Mia) Charleville Maroochydore
AUSTRALIA O
Brisbane
Toowoomba c
Lake Coolangatta e
Geraldton Coober Eyre
Pedy Moree a
SOUTH AUSTRALIA Bourke n
Kalgoorlie-Boulder Lake Darling Coffs Harbour
Lake Torrens NEW
Perth Gairdner Broken SOUTH
Hill
Fremantle Ceduna Dubbo
Great W ALES Maitland Newcastle
Whyalla
Australian Bight Murray
Augusta Esperance Sydney
Cape Port Mildura Wollongong
Leeuwin Albany Lincoln Adelaide Wagga Wagga Canberra
AUSTRALIAN
Kangaroo CAPITAL
Island VICTORIA
TERRITORY
Melbourne a
Geelong e
Key S
King Bass Strait n
International airport Flinders
Island Island a
Domestic airport Devonport m
Passenger ship terminal s
Launceston
Freeway or motorway T ASMANIA T a
Highway
Hobart
Railway 0 kilometres 500
State boundary 0 miles 250
014-015_EW_Sydney.indd 15 29/05/17 12:15 pm

16  INTRODUCING SY DNEY
Terrey Hills
Newcastle Palm
Narrabeen Beach
Central Sydney and Suburbs PYMBLE 22 DEE R O A D 14
WHY
Sydney has gradually expanded to fill both sides of the harbour. 29 WARRINGAH P I T T W AT E R
Parramatta to the west was once a separate settlement, but is ROAD
now the geographic centre of Greater Sydney. To the east are the E A S T E R N ROAD
beaches and seaside suburbs that have come to typify coastal WARRINGAH
living. The area as a whole is served by rail links and roads. L a n e R O A D BROOKVALE T R E E T 12
S
29
A R T E R I A L
N O R T H R O C K S R O A D EPPING C A R L I N G F O R D R O A D E P P I N G R Y D E C o v e LADY GAME DRIVE R O A D 14 PITTWATER ROAD
W A K E H U R S T
P A C I F I C H
P E N N A N T H I L L S R O A D R O A D I G H W AY BOUNDARY ST E A S T E R N P A R K W A Y C O N D A M I N E
Windsor M A R S D E N R O A D B L A X L A N D R iv e r 29 PENSHURST STREET 22 S Y D N E Y R O A D MANLY
RUTLEDGE ST Lane Cove Tunnel V A L L E Y Manly Wharf
K I S S I N G P O I N T R O A D P I T T W AT E R CHATSWOOD W M i d d l e Spit
55 R O A D L A N E C O V E R O A D MOWBRAY ROAD
Bridge
40 D E P P I N G R O A D A Y
R O A H a r b o u r North Harbour
Parramatta V I C T O R I A WILLOUGHBY ROAD
PARRAMATTA V I C T O R I A R O A D Meadowbank RYDE 14
Rydalmere Sydney 40
Olympic Park ROAD
14
R O A D
Penrith R Y D E
RIVER ROAD
Silverwater Ryde
Bridge Bridge R O A D Fig Tree M I L I T A R Y R O A D
S I L V E R W A T E R 27 Parra matta R iv er Gladesville SYDNEY Kurraba Point Mosman Bay BRADLEYS HEAD RO A D
Bridge
Kissing Point
NORTH
Neutral Bay
Old Cremorne
Bridge
Watsons
W E S T E R N
South
Mosman
Huntley's Point
McMahons Pt
Point
P A R R A M A T T A
Island
Spectacle
Zoo
Sydney
AUBURN Cabarita Abbotsford Drummoyne Hunters Hill Cockatoo Greenwich Point Milson's High St North Cremorne Taronga P o r t J a c k s o n Bay
Island
45 M O T O R W A Y HO M EBUS H BAY DRIVE C O N C O R D R O A D Chiswick V I C T O R I A Cockatoo Birchgrove Island Sydney Harbour Bridge VAUCLUSE
Kirribilli Point
Goat
Island
Sydney Harbour Tunnel
R O A D
R O A D
Reserve
Circular
Iron Cove
Island
Bridge Balmain Barangaroo Fort Denison Garden Shark Island 76
Quay
CONCORD L Y O N S Balmain Barangaroo R O A D
East
44 R O A D Clark Island
Darling Darling Rose
21 Pymont Harbour Point Bay
BAL MAIN ROAD
Bay
G R E A T GEORGE Cross City Double H E A D
NE W S OUTH H E A D ROA D
Tunnel
Bay
J O S EP H S TR EE T C E N T E N A R Y D R I V E STRATHFIELD BURWOOD ROAD BURWOOD W E S T E R N H I G H W A Y DARLEY ROAD LEICHHARDT GLEBE SYDNEY O XF ORD S T R E E T JUNCTION O L D S OU TH BONDI
27
76
DOUBLE
HOMEBUSH ROAD
JOHNSTON ST
BAY
FREDERICK ST
SURRY
BONDI
HILLS
RAMSAY ST
STREET
MI LITARY ROAD
OCEAN STREET
ASHFIELD
R O B E R T S R O A D L I V E R P O O L R O A D G EOR GES RI VER ROA D OLD CANTERBURY ROAD C A NTERBURY ROAD MARRICKVILLE H I G H WAY MITCHELL ROAD 66 B O U R KE STR
54
NEWTOWN
Key 27 P
Central Sydney NEW MA RRICKVILLE SYDENHAM ROAD ARADE STREET
Parks and reserves ROAD PR I N C E S ST R EET C LO V ELLY ROAD
Sydney Olympic Park PUNCHBOWL ROAD C o oks 17 R O A D COOGEE BAY RD
Airport C A N T E R B U R Y R O A D Riv er GARDENERS ROAD COOGEE
Central Railway Station BEXLEY ST REE T H I G H W A Y I RAINBOW STREET ARDEN
Ferry boarding point WI L LI AM A I RP OR T D R V E O ' R IORD A N B O T A N Y 17
54 MASCOT
RiverCat boarding point MOOREFIELDS ROAD R O AD
Metroad route KINGSGROVE ROAD 70
Freeway or motorway FO RE S T R OA D B U N N E R O N G R O A D MAROUBRA ROAD
Major road 55 P R I N C E S 66
Minor road C R E E K R O A D WEST BOTANY ST G E N E R A L H O L M E S D R I V E MAROUBRA
S T O N E Y
ANZ AC PA R AD E
Railway FORESHORE ROAD
HURSTVILLE
B O TANY R OAD
Tunnel La Perouse
Wollongong
K I N G G E O R G E S R O A D
016-017_EW_Sydney.indd 16 29/05/17 12:15 pm

PUT TING SY DNEY ON THE M AP  17
Terrey Hills
Newcastle Palm
Narrabeen Beach
PYMBLE 22 R O A D 14
DEE
WHY
29 WARRINGAH P I T T W AT E R
ROAD
ROAD
WARRINGAH
E A S T E R N
L a n e R O A D BROOKVALE T R E E T 12
S
29
A R T E R I A L
N O R T H R O C K S R O A D EPPING C A R L I N G F O R D R O A D E P P I N G R Y D E C o v e LADY GAME DRIVE R O A D 14 PITTWATER ROAD
W A K E H U R S T
P A C I F I C H
P E N N A N T H I L L S R O A D R O A D I G H W AY BOUNDARY ST E A S T E R N P A R K W A Y C O N D A M I N E
Windsor M A R S D E N R O A D B L A X L A N D R iv e r 29 PENSHURST STREET 22 S Y D N E Y R O A D MANLY
RUTLEDGE ST Lane Cove Tunnel V A L L E Y Manly Wharf
K I S S I N G P O I N T R O A D P I T T W AT E R CHATSWOOD W M i d d l e Spit
55 R O A D L A N E C O V E R O A D MOWBRAY ROAD
Bridge
40 D E P P I N G R O A D A Y
R O A H a r b o u r North Harbour
Parramatta V I C T O R I A WILLOUGHBY ROAD
PARRAMATTA V I C T O R I A R O A D Meadowbank RYDE 14
Rydalmere Sydney 40
Olympic Park ROAD
14
R O A D
Penrith R Y D E
Silverwater Ryde
RIVER ROAD
Bridge Bridge R O A D Fig Tree M I L I T A R Y R O A D
S I L V E R W A T E R 27 Parra matta R iv er Gladesville SYDNEY Kurraba Point Mosman Bay BRADLEYS HEAD RO A D
Bridge
Kissing Point
NORTH
Neutral Bay
Old Cremorne
Bridge
W E S T E R N
Watsons
South
Mosman
Huntley's Point
McMahons Pt
Point
P A R R A M A T T A
Spectacle
Island
Zoo
Sydney
Island
AUBURN Cabarita Abbotsford Drummoyne Hunters Hill Cockatoo Greenwich Point Milson's High St North Cremorne Taronga P o r t J a c k s o n Bay
45 M O T O R W A Y HO M EBUS H BAY DRIVE C O N C O R D R O A D Chiswick V I C T O R I A Cockatoo Birchgrove Island Sydney Harbour Bridge VAUCLUSE
Kirribilli Point
Goat
Island
Sydney Harbour Tunnel
R O A D
R O A D
Reserve
Circular
Iron Cove
Island
Bridge Balmain Barangaroo Fort Denison Garden Shark Island 76
Quay
CONCORD L Y O N S Balmain Barangaroo R O A D
East
44 R O A D Clark Island
Darling Darling Rose
21 Pymont Harbour Point Bay
Bay
BAL MAIN ROAD
G R E A T GEORGE Cross City Double H E A D
NE W S OUTH H E A D ROA D
Tunnel
Bay
J O S EP H S TR EE T C E N T E N A R Y D R I V E STRATHFIELD BURWOOD ROAD BURWOOD W E S T E R N H I G H W A Y DARLEY ROAD LEICHHARDT GLEBE SYDNEY O XF ORD S T R E E T JUNCTION O L D S OU TH BONDI
27
76
DOUBLE
HOMEBUSH ROAD
JOHNSTON ST
BAY
FREDERICK ST
SURRY
BONDI
HILLS
RAMSAY ST
STREET
MI LITARY ROAD
OCEAN STREET
MARRICKVILLE H I G H WAY
ASHFIELD
R O B E R T S R O A D L I V E R P O O L R O A D G EO R G ES R IV E R R OA D OLD CANTERBURY ROAD C A NTERBURY SYDENHAM ROAD 54 NEWTOWN MITCHELL ROAD 66 B O U R KE STREET S O U T H D O W L I N G S T R E E T 70
ROAD
27
STREET
NEW
PUNCHBOWL ROAD C o oks MA RRICKVILLE ROAD PR I N C E S 17 S T R EET R O A D ARADE COOGEE BAY RD ROAD
C LO V ELLY
C A N T E R B U R Y R O A D Riv er I GARDENERS ROAD RAINBOW STREET ARDEN COOGEE
BEXLEY
54 WI L LI AM ST REE T H I G H W A Y A I RP OR T D R V E O ' R IORD A N B O T A N Y MASCOT 17
MOOREFIELDS ROAD R O AD 70
FO RE S T R OA D B U N N E R O N G R O A D MAROUBRA ROAD
55 P R I N C E S 66
KINGSGROVE ROAD
C R E E K R O A D WEST BOTANY ST G E N E R A L H O L M E S D R I V E MAROUBRA
S T O N E Y B O TANY R OAD 0 kilometres 2
ANZ AC PA R AD E
HURSTVILLE FORESHORE ROAD La Perouse 0 miles 1
Wollongong
K I N G G E O R G E S R O A D
016-017_EW_Sydney.indd 17 29/05/17 12:15 pm

18  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Central Sydney Harbour
Bridge
This guide divides inner Sydney into six distinct BRADFIELD HIGHWAY Sydney
Fort
areas, each of which has its own chapter. ROA D Denison
LOWER FORT ST
Most city sights are contained in these areas. HICKSON ROAD Sydney
The Rocks and Circular Quay is the oldest part THE ROCKS AND HICKSON Opera
House
CIRCULAR QUAY
of inner Sydney, while the City Centre is today’s
central business district. The Botanic Garden ARGYLE ST CUMBERLAND ST Sydney
Cove
and The Domain form a green oasis almost in H I C K S O N OBSERVATORY
PARK
Museum of
the heart of the city. To the west lies Darling Contemporary Art R O A D
CIRCULAR QUAY
Harbour, which includes Sydney’s Chinatown, K E N T S T R E E T TOLL C A H I L L E X P R E S S WAY MACQUARIE STREET
and Surry Hills, home to buzzing bars and POINT Farm
GROSVENOR Circular Cove M A C Q U A R I E S
eclectic shopping. To the east are Kings Cross R O A D PLACE GEORGE ST PITT STREET Quay
and Darlinghurst, areas known for their GROSVENOR ST B R I D G E S T R E E T BOTANIC
ROYAL
Museum
popular cafés and restaurants, and of Sydney GARDEN M R S
Paddington, a district that still PHILLIP ST BOTANIC
retains its 19th-century character. C L A R E N C E S T R E E T MACQUARIE STREET GARDEN AND
P I T T S T R E E T
ART G A LLERY ROAD
Wynyard MARTIN PLACE STREET THE DOMAIN
G E O R G E
THE
K E N T S T R E E T
Australian National CITY ELIZABETH ST Martin DOMAIN Art Gallery of CO WPER WHARF ROADWAY
CENTRE
Maritime Museum WILD LIFE K I N G Place New South CHALLIS AVE
Y O R K S T R E E T
Sydney Zoo S T R E E T CASTLEREAGH Wales
Sydney
Tower NICHOLSON ST
Pyrmont ST JAMES ROAD MACLEAY STREET
St James
S U S S E X
Bay SEA LIFE
M A R K E T S T R E E T
S T R E E T
Sydney Aquarium KENT STREET GEORGE STREET B R O U G H A M S T R E E T V I C T O R I A S T R E E T HUGHES ST GREENKNOWE
Cockle S T R E E T E L I Z A B E T H AVE
Bay PITT STREET HYDE COLLEGE STREET PHILLIP CROWN ST B O U R K E S T ELIZ ABETH BAY RD
Convention PARK FORBES STREET
Town Hall P A R K S T R E E T COOK
PARK
P Y R M O N T S T R E E T
Cross
WILLIAM ST
S T
PARK Australian Kings DARLINGHURST ROAD WARD AVEN UE
B AT H U R S T S T R E E T
Museum WILLIAM S T R E E T
S T R E E T KINGS CROSS AND
K INGS CROSS ROAD
H ARBOUR
Museum
Exhibition L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T PALMER STREET B O U R K E S T D I S T R I B U T O R DARLINGHURST

CRAIGEND STREET
Centre STREET LIVERPOOL ST E A S T E R N R O A D

Lord Nelson Hotel P I E R S T RE ET GOULBURN STREET O X F O R D FORBES STREET WOMERAH AVENUE
H A R R I S S T R E E T
LIVERPOOL STREET
This traditional pub in Powerhouse DARLING C A S T L E R E A G H WENTWORTH AVENUE S T R E E T CROWN ST BURTON ST
VICTORIA STR EET
The Rocks (see pp64–79) first Museum HARBOUR S T R E E T S T R E E T
opened its doors in 1834. Paddy's H AY S T R E E T ELIZABETH STREET D A R L I N G H U R S T
Its own specially brewed Markets Capitol CAMPBELL STREET TAYLOR B O U N DARY ST R EET
ULTIMO ROAD P I T T
beers are available on tap. G E O R G E Square SQUARE BROWN ST REET
Central G LENMOR E R O A D
RAILWAY A L B I O N S T R E E T O X F O R D
EDDY AVE
H A R R I S S T R E E T
SQUARE RILEY STREET CROWN STREET SOUTH DOWLING STREET ORMOND STREET
STREET Railway FOVEAUX ST REET R O A D S T R E E T STAFFORD STREET
Central
LEE Station CHALMERS STREET SELWYN STREET PADDINGTON
Key SURRY G RE E N S U N D E R W O O D
HILLS O X F O R D PADDINGTON STREET
REGENT STREET
Major sight M O O R E RENNY STREET
P A R K
Central Railway Station DEVONSHIRE STREET R O A D S T R E E T
Sydney Trains station L E I N S T E R G O R D O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T
JAMES STREET
Light Rail station PARK ALLIANZ M O O R E S T R E E T Q U E E N S T R E E T
STADIUM
Coach station Kippax P A R K R O A D O X F O R D
Lake
Queen Victoria Building
Ferry boarding point MOORE D RI V E R A V E N U E S T R E E T
This Romanesque-style former
GREGORY AVENUE
Tourist information produce market, built in the 1890s, SYDNEY L A N E
CRICKET
Hospital with casualty unit forms part of a fine group of Victorian- GROUND
era buildings in the City Centre CENTENNIAL
Police Station C E N T E N N I A L L A N G R O A D PARK
(see pp80–91). Now a shopping mall, THE ENTERTAINMENT
Church it retains many original features, QUARTER
Synagogue including its roof statues and
stained- glass windows.
Mosque
018-019_EW_Sydney.indd 18 29/05/17 12:15 pm

PUT TING SY DNEY ON THE M AP  19


Harbour
Bridge
HICKSON ROAD BRADFIELD HIGHWAY Sydney Sydney Denison
ROA D
Fort
LOWER FORT ST
Opera
THE ROCKS AND HICKSON House Art Gallery of New
CIRCULAR QUAY South Wales
CUMBERLAND ST Cove is set in the middle of
ARGYLE ST Sydney The city’s premier art gallery
OBSERVATORY
PARK parkland in the Botanic
Museum of
H I C K S O N
Contemporary Art R O A D Garden and The Domain (see
CIRCULAR QUAY pp104–17). It houses a fine
TOLL C A H I L L E X P R E S S WAY MACQUARIE STREET
POINT collection of early Australian,
GEORGE ST Cove M A C Q U A R I E S
GROSVENOR Circular Farm Aboriginal and European art.
PLACE PITT STREET Quay
K E N T S T R E E T
R O A D
GROSVENOR ST ROYAL
B R I D G E S T R E E T BOTANIC M R S
Museum
of Sydney GARDEN
BOTANIC
S T R E E T PHILLIP ST MACQUARIE STREET GARDEN AND
P I T T S T R E E T
ART G A LLERY ROAD
Wynyard MARTIN PLACE STREET THE DOMAIN
G E O R G E
C L A R E N C E
THE
Australian National CITY ELIZABETH ST Martin DOMAIN Art Gallery of CO WPER WHARF ROADWAY
K E N T S T R E E T
CENTRE
Maritime Museum WILD LIFE K I N G Place New South CHALLIS AVE
Y O R K S T R E E T
Sydney Zoo S T R E E T CASTLEREAGH Wales
Sydney
Tower NICHOLSON ST
Pyrmont ST JAMES ROAD MACLEAY STREET
S U S S E X
St James
Bay SEA LIFE
M A R K E T S T R E E T
S T R E E T
Sydney Aquarium KENT STREET GEORGE STREET B R O U G H A M S T R E E T V I C T O R I A S T R E E T HUGHES ST GREENKNOWE
Cockle S T R E E T E L I Z A B E T H AVE Elizabeth Bay near Potts Point
Bay PITT STREET HYDE COLLEGE STREET PHILLIP CROWN ST B O U R K E S T ELIZ ABETH BAY RD A picturesque bay with fine views across
Convention PARK FORBES STREET Sydney Harbour, it is at the northern end
Town Hall P A R K S T R E E T COOK of the Kings Cross and Darlinghurst area
PARK
P Y R M O N T S T R E E T
Cross
WILLIAM ST
S T
PARK Australian Kings DARLINGHURST ROAD WARD AVEN UE (see pp118–23).
B AT H U R S T S T R E E T
Museum WILLIAM S T R E E T
S T R E E T KINGS CROSS AND
K INGS CROSS ROAD
H ARBOUR
Museum
Exhibition L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T PALMER STREET B O U R K E S T D I S T R I B U T O R DARLINGHURST

CRAIGEND STREET
Centre STREET LIVERPOOL ST E A S T E R N
R O A D
P I E R S T RE ET GOULBURN STREET O X F O R D LIVERPOOL STREET WOMERAH AVENUE

H A R R I S S T R E E T

D A R L I N G H U R S T
Powerhouse DARLING C A S T L E R E A G H WENTWORTH AVENUE CROWN ST FORBES STREET
Museum HARBOUR S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T BURTON ST
Paddy's H AY S T R E E T ELIZABETH STREET VICTORIA STR EET
Markets Capitol CAMPBELL STREET TAYLOR B O U N DARY ST R EET BROWN ST REET
Square
ULTIMO ROAD G E O R G E P I T T SQUARE
Central G LENMOR E R O A D
RAILWAY A L B I O N S T R E E T O X F O R D
EDDY AVE
SQUARE RILEY STREET CROWN STREET SOUTH DOWLING STREET ORMOND STREET
H A R R I S S T R E E T
STREET Railway FOVEAUX ST REET R O A D S T R E E T STAFFORD STREET
Central
LEE Station CHALMERS STREET SURRY SELWYN STREET PADDINGTON
HILLS G RE E N S O X F O R D PADDINGTON STREET
REGENT STREET
U N D E R W O O D
M O O R E RENNY STREET
Centennial Park
P A R K
This green expanse in
R O A D
S T R E E T
DEVONSHIRE STREET

L E I N S T E R
S T R E E T
PARK ALLIANZ M O O R E G O R D O N S T R E E T Q U E E N S T R E E T Paddington (see pp124–9)
STADIUM S T R E E T JAMES STREET was once part of a
Kippax P A R K sanddune system
Lake R O A D O X F O R D
that extended from
S T R E E T
L A N E Botany Bay in the south.
GREGORY AVENUE
SYDNEY
CRICKET
GROUND CENTENNIAL
C E N T E N N I A L L A N G R O A D PARK
MOORE D RI V E R A V E N U E
THE ENTERTAINMENT
QUARTER
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
018-019_EW_Sydney.indd 19 29/05/17 12:15 pm

020-021_EW_Sydney.indd 20 29/05/17 12:18 pm

INTRODUCING SY DNEY  21

THE HISTORY OF SYDNEY

The first inhabitants of Australia were the guards, officers, officials, wives and children
Aboriginal peoples. Their history began landed on 26 January, now commemorated
in a time called the Dreaming when the as Australia Day. This marked the beginning
Ancestor Spirits emerged from the earth of the rapid devastation of the Aboriginal
and gave form to the landscape. Anthro­ peoples, as they fell to introduced diseases
pologists believe the Aboriginal peoples and the overwhelming invasion of the
arrived from Asia more than 50,000 years heavily armed new settlers. Full citizenship
ago. Clans lived in the area now known rights were finally granted to the Aboriginal
as Sydney, until the arrival of Europeans peoples in 1973, and their traditions are
caused violent disruption to this world. now accorded respect.
In 1768, Captain James Cook began a The city of Sydney soon flourished,
search for the fabled “great south land”. with the construction of impressive
Travelling in the wake of other European public buildings befitting an emerging
explorers, he was the first to set foot on the maritime power. In 1901, amid a
east coast of the land the Dutch had named burgeoning nationalism, the Fed eration
New Holland, and claimed it for King and drew the country’s six colonies together
country. He landed at Botany Bay in 1770, and New South Wales became a state
naming the coast New South Wales. of Australia.
At the suggestion of Sir Joseph Banks, In its two centuries of European
Cook’s botanist on HMS Endeavour, a penal settlement, Sydney has experienced
colony was established here to relieve alternating periods of growth and
Britain’s overflowing prisons. The First Fleet decline. It has weathered the effects of
of 11 ships reached Botany Bay in 1788, gold rush and trade booms, depressions
commanded by Captain Arthur Phillip. and world wars, to establish a distinctive
He felt the land there was too swampy character marked by a vibrant eclecticism.
and the bay windswept. Just to the north, The underlying British culture, married
however, he found “one of the finest with Aboriginal influences and successive
harbours in the world,” naming it Sydney waves of Asian and European migration,
Cove, after the Home Department’s has produced today’s modern
Secretary of State. Here, 1,485 convicts, cosmopolitan city.























Sketch & Description of the Settlement at Sydney Cove (1788), by transported convict Francis Fowkes
Desmond, a New South Wales Chief (about 1825), by Augustus Earle



020-021_EW_Sydney.indd 21 29/05/17 12:18 pm

22  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Original Inhabitants

Anthropologists believe that Aboriginal peoples reached
Sydney Harbour at least 50,000 years ago. One of the clans
of coastal Sydney was the Eora people. Their campsites were
usually close to the shore, particularly in the summer when
fish were plentiful. Plant and animal foods supplemented
their seafood diet. Artistic expression was a way of life, with
their shields decorated with ochre, designs carved on their Aborigines Fishing (1819)
implements, and their bodies adorned with scars, animal teeth Sixty-seven Eora canoes were
and feathers. Sacred and social ceremonies are still vital today. counted in the harbour on a
Oral traditions recount stories of the Dreaming (see p21) and single day. Spears were used
as tools and weapons.
describe the Eora’s strong attachment to the land.
Berowra
Waters







The name Parramatta
means “place where eels
lie down or sleep”, or “the
head of the river”.
Glenbrook Crossing
The Red Hand Caves near
Glenbrook in the lower Blue
Mountains contain stencils Glenbrook
where ochre was blown Parramatta
over outstretched hands.

Cabramatta
Cabramatta means
“land where the cobra
grub is found”.

Red Ochre and Aboriginal Rock Art
Shell Paint Holder
Ochre was a common ly There are approximately 5,500 known rock art sites in
used material in rock the Sydney basin alone. Early colonists such as Watkin
painting. Finely ground, then Tench said that paintings and engravings were on every
mixed with water and a binding agent, kind of surface. The history of col onization was also
it would be applied by brush or hand. recorded in rock engravings, with depictions of the
arrival of ships and fighting.

43,000–38,000BC Tools found 20,000 Humans lived in the 11,000 Burial site
in a gravel pit beside Nepean Blue Mountains despite extreme excavated in
River are among the oldest conditions. Remains found of Victoria of more
firmly dated signs of human the largest mammal, Diprotodon, than 40 individuals
occupation in Australia Diprotodon date back to this period of this period
50,000 BC 20,000 BC
28,000 Funerary rites at Lake Mungo, NSW. Complete 18,000 People
skeleton has been found of man buried at this time now inhabit the
entire continent, 13,000 Final stages of Ice
23,000 One of the world’s earliest known from the deserts Age, with small glaciers in
cremations carried out in Western NSW to the mountains the Snowy Mountains





022-023_EW_Sydney.indd 22 29/05/17 12:18 pm

THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  23


Where to See Aboriginal
Rock Art and Artifacts
The soft sandstone of Sydney
Ku-ring-gai
is named after Hunting and Fishing Implements was a natural canvas. Much of the
clans who lived Multi­pronged Eora spears were used for fishing, rock art of the original inhabitants
in this coastal while canoes were shaped from a single piece of remains and can be found on
dis trict. It is rich in bark. Boomerangs, with their angled shape and walking trails in Ku­ring­gai Chase
rock engravings. asymmetrical curves, made for highly effective National Park (see pp156–7) and
hunting weapons. in the Royal National Park (p167).
The NSW Office of Environment
and Heritage has information on
a number of Aboriginal sites
(www.environment.nsw.gov.au/
nswcultureheritage/RockArt.htm).
Berowra
Waters


Fish Carving at West Head
This area in Ku­ring­gai Chase has
51 figures and is acknow ledged
as one of the richest sites in
the greater Sydney region.
Gumbooya Reserve in sub­
The name Bondi urban Allambie Heights has a
comes from the collection of 68 rock carvings.
Allambie word boondi, This human figure appears to
Heights meaning “the be inside or on top of a whale.
sound of water
crashing”.
Bondi
Shell Fish-Hooks This python skeleton is on
Coogee Introduced from the view at the Australian Museum
Torres Strait, these (see pp90–91), along with a large
Maroubra hooks were ground­ collection of Aboriginal artifacts.
Coogee means down mollusc shells.
“bad smell of
rotten seaweed
washed ashore”.
Water Carrier
These bags were
Maroubra comes either usually made of
from the merooberah tribe, kangaroo skin. The
or means “place where shells skin was removed in
are found”. one piece and either
turned inside out or
Bundeena tanned with the sap
from a gum tree.

11,000 Burial site 8,000 BC The 5,000 BC Dingo Captain James Cook
excavated in oldest returning reaches Australia,
Victoria of more boomerangs thought to have AD 1606 Dutch ship, Duyfken, records first
than 40 individuals are in use in been brought European sighting of the continent. Lands on
of this period South Australia by seafarers the eastern coast of Gulf of Carpentaria
10,000 BC AD 1
AD 1700 Macassans search for trepang
10,000–8,500 BC Copperplate print or sea slugs off Australia’s north coast
Tasmania is separated of a dingo
from mainland Australia AD 1770 James Cook
by rising seas lands at Botany Bay





022-023_EW_Sydney.indd 23 29/05/17 12:18 pm

24  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

The Early Colony

The colony’s beginnings were rugged and hungry, imbued
with a spirit that would give Sydney its unique character.
Convicts were put to work establishing roads and constructing
buildings out of mud, reeds, unseasoned wood and mortar
made from a crushed shell mixture. From these simple
beginnings, a town grew. Officers of the New South Wales
Corps became farmers, encouraged to work their land Growth of the City
alongside convict labour. Because the soldiers paid for Today 1810
work and goods in rum, they soon became known as the
Rum Corps, in 1808 overthrowing Governor Bligh (of Bounty
fame) when he threatened their privileges. By the early Boat building at the
1800s farms were producing crops, with supplies arriving Government Pitts Row
more regularly – as were convicts and settlers with more dockyard
appropriate skills and trades.












First Fleet Ship (c.1787)
This painting by Francis Holman shows three
angles of the Borrowdale, one of the fleet’s
three commercial storeships.


Government
House

A View of Sydney Cove
Scrimshaw
Engraving bone This idyllic image, drawn by Edward Dayes
or shell was a and engraved by F Jukes in 1804, shows the
skilful way to Aboriginal peoples living peacefully within
pass time the infant colony alongside the flourishing
during long maritime and agricultural industries. In fact,
months spent they had been entirely ostracized from the
at sea. life and prosperity of the town by this time.


1788 The First Fleet arrives, the first
1787 The First Fleet white child is born in the colony, 1796 The Revenge opens
leaves Portsmouth, and the first man is hanged Sydney’s first, but short-
bound for Botany Bay lived, playhouse, simply
Barrington, the convict and
thespian star of The Revenge named The Theatre
1785 1790 1795
1789 The Aboriginal 1790 First detachment of
Bennelong Bennelong is held the New South Wales Corps 1793 Arrival of the first free settlers
pictured in captive and ordered to arrives in the colony. Fears of
European act as an inter mediary starvation are less ened with 1797 Merino sheep arrive
finery between the whites the arrival of the supply ship from Cape of Good Hope
and blacks Lady Juliana




024-025_EW_Sydney.indd 24 29/05/17 12:18 pm

THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  25

The Arrest of Bligh
This shameful, and invented, Where to See Early
scene shows the hated Colonial Sydney
Governor William Bligh,
in full regalia, hiding The Rocks was the hub of early
under a servant’s Sydney. Wharves, warehouses,
bed to avoid arrest hotels, rough houses and even
by the NSW Rum rougher characters gave it its
Corps in 1808. colour. Dramatic cuts were
made in the rocky point to
provide building materials and
filling for the construction of
The buildings may Circular Quay, and allow for
look impressive, but streets. The houses are gone,
most were poorly Male and female except for Cadman’s Cottage
built with inferior convicts were housed (see p70), but the irregular,
materials. separately labyrinthine lanes still give
a flavour of this early history.








Waratah (1803)
John Lewin, naturalist and
engraver, drew delicate and Elizabeth Farm (pp140–41)
faithful representations of at Parramatta is the oldest
the local flora and fauna. sur viving building in Australia.
It was built by convicts using
lime mortar from the penal
colony of Norfolk Island.
Barracks housing NSW
Rum Corps






Experiment Farm Cottage,
an early dwelling (see p141),
Kangaroo (1813) displays marked convict-made
Naturalists were amazed at Sydney’s bricks. Masons also marked
vast array of strange plant and animal each brick, as they were paid
species. The first pictures sent back according to the number laid.
to England caused a sensation.


1799 Explorers Bass and Flinders 1803 The first issue of the 1808 Rum Rebellion
complete their circum navigation weekly Sydney Gazette, brings social upheaval.
of Van Diemen’s Land (now Australia’s first newspaper, Estimated population
Tasmania), before returning is published of New South Wales
to Port Jackson stands at 9,100
1800 1805 1810
1801 Ticket-of-leave 1804 Irish convict
system introduced, uprising at Castle Hill 1810 New
enabling the convicts convict
1797 Merino sheep arrive to work for wages 1802 Aboriginal leader Pemulwy is arrivals craft
from Cape of Good Hope and to choose their shot and killed following the killing of Love token such items as
own master four white men by Aboriginal men love tokens




024-025_EW_Sydney.indd 25 29/05/17 12:18 pm

26  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

The Georgian Era

Sydney’s early decades were times of turbulence and growth.
Lachlan Mac quarie, governor from 1810 to 1821, was one of
the most significant figures. He took over a town-cum-jail and
left behind a fully fledged city with a sense of civic pride. Noted
for his sympathetic attitude to convicts and freed women and
men, he commissioned many fine buildings, including work
by convict Francis Greenway (see p116). When Macquarie left Growth of the City
in 1822, Sydney boasted main roads, regular streets and an Today 1825
orga nized police system. By the 1830s, trade had expanded,
and labour and land were plentiful. In 1840, transporta tion of
convicts was abolished. A decade of lively debate followed: The domed saloon
on immigration, religion and education. is elliptical, and has a
cantilevered staircase.
Bedroom
The breakfast
room was used for
informal dining.






View from the Summit
Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth were
the first Europeans to cross the Blue
Mountains in 1813. Augustus Earle’s
painting shows convicts work ing on
a road into this fertile area.



The kitchen was
originally in a sepa rate
block to avoid the
danger of fire.

The Macquaries Elizabeth Bay House
Governor Macquarie and his wife This extravagant Regency villa was built in 1835–9 for
Elizabeth arrived in the city with Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay (see p122).
a brief to “improve the morals of After only six years’ occupancy, lavish build ing and
the Colonists”.
household expenses forced him into bankruptcy.

1814 Holey dollar eases coin shortage 1830 Sir Thomas
1820 Macquarie Chair crafted of Mitchell discovers
Holey dollar and she-oak and wallaby skin megafauna fossils in
dump, made from New South Wales
Spanish coins Macquarie Chair
1810 1815 1820 1825 1830
1816 Convict architect Francis 1817 The Bank of NSW 1831 First Australian
Greenway designs his first building, opens. Macquarie novel, Quintus Servinton,
Macquarie Lighthouse recommends adoption of is printed and published
the name Australia for the
continent, as suggested by 1824 Hume and Hovell are the first
explorer Matthew Flinders Europeans to see the Snowy Mountains




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THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  27

Lyrebird (1813)
As the colony con­ Where to See
tinued to expand, Georgian Sydney
more exotic birds
and animals were Governor Macquarie designat ed
found. The male of the street now bearing his name
this species has an (see pp114–17) as the ceremonial
impressive tail that centre of the city. It has an elegant
spreads into the collection of buildings: the Hyde
shape of a lyre. Park Barracks, St James’ Church,
the Sydney Mint, Parliament House
and Sydney Hospital. Other fine
examples are the Victoria Barracks
Aboriginal Explorer (p129), Vaucluse House (p138) and
Servants’ quarters Bungaree took part in the first Macquarie Lighthouse (p139).
circumnavigation of the
continent, sailing with
Matthew Flinders.











Old Government House, the
oldest surviving public build ing
in Australia (see p141), was
erected in 1799. Additions
ordered by Governor Macquarie
were completed in 1816.
Drawing room

The Classical
design was to be
complemented by
a colonnade, but
money ran out.


High Fashion, 1838
Stylish ladies would prom­
enade through Hyde Park
(see pp88–9) in the very latest
The dining room was furnished in a London fashions, which were
florid style out of keeping with the available from the David
Neo­Classical architecture. Jones department store.

Naturalist and 1842 Sydney town
author, Charles becomes a city 1850 Work begins on
Darwin 1844 Edward Geoghegan’s NSW’s first railway
1838 Myall Creek massacre Australian musical comedy, line, from Sydney
of Aboriginal peoples The Currency Lass, first performed to Parramatta
1830 1835 1840 1845 1850
1836 Charles 1841 Female Immigrants’ 1848 Parramatta’s Female
Darwin visits 1837 Victoria is Home established in Sydney Factory, a notorious women’s
Sydney on crowned Queen by Caroline Chisholm. Gas prison, closes down
HMS Beagle of England lights illuminate Sydney
1840 Transportation of Caroline Chisholm,
convicts to NSW is abolished philanthropist




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28  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Victorian Sydney

In the 1850s, gold was discovered in New South Wales and
Sydney came alive with gold seekers, big spenders and a
new wave of settlers. It was the start of a peaceful period of
solid growth. Education became compulsory, an art gallery
was opened and the Australian Academy of Arts held its first
exhibition. The city skyline became more complex, with spires
and “tall” buildings. Terrace houses proliferated. Victorian Growth of the City
decorum and social behaviour borrowed from the mother Today 1881
country flourished, with much social visiting and sporting
enthusiasm. It was an age of pleasure gardens and regattas,
but also a time of unruliness and political agitation. In the
1890s, fervent nationalism and an Australian identity began The structure The dome was
to take shape as the country moved towards Federation. was built of 30 m (98 ft)
hollow pine. in diameter.













Mrs Macquaries Chair (1855)
This prime harbour viewing spot (see p108),
with the seat carved from rock for the
governor’s wife, was “the daily resort of
all the fashionable people in Sydney”.

Boer War
The 1st Australian
Horse division
was praised
for its bushcraft, The Garden Palace
horsemanship and
accurate shooting. Built in the Botanic Garden especially for
the occasion, in 1879–80, the Garden Palace
hosted the first international exhibition held
in the southern hemisphere. Twenty nations
took part. Sadly, the predominantly timber
building and most of its contents were
destroyed by fire in 1882.

Henry Parkes
1851 The discovery of gold 1872 Henry
near Bathurst, west of the 1868 The Duke of Edinburgh visits and survives Parkes
Blue Mountains, sparks a an assassination attempt. The Prince Alfred elected NSW
gold rush Hospital is later named in his honour Premier
1850 1860 1870
1867 Henry Lawson born
1857 Dunbar wrecked at The Henry Lawson, 1869 Trend in the colony 1870 The last
Gap with the loss of 121 lives notable poet towards the segregation of British troops
and only one survivor and author of Aboriginal peoples on withdraw from
short stories reserves and settlements the colony




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THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  29

The Waverly
This clipper brig, with Where to See
its extra sails and tall Victorian Sydney
masts, enabled the
fast transport of wool Sydney’s buildings reflect the
exports and fortune spirit of the age. The Queen
seekers hastening Victoria Building (see p84), Sydney
to newly discovered Town Hall (p89) and Martin Place
Colonial gold fields. (p86) mark grand civic spaces.
In stark contrast, the Argyle
Terraces and Susannah Place (p69)
in The Rocks give some idea of
the cramped living conditions
endured by the working class.
The “Strasburg” Clock
In 1887, Sydney clockmaker Richard
Smith began work on this astronom ical
model now in the Powerhouse
Museum (see pp102–3).










The Macquarie Street
entrance to the Garden St Mary’s Cathedral (see p88),
is home to the Palace’s built in Gothic Revival style,
surviving carved Sydney
sandstone gateposts is thought to be the largest
and wrought iron gates. Christian church in the former
“Empire”, outside Britain.
The exhibition attracted over
one million people.








Arthur Streeton Victorian terrace houses,
In 1891, Streeton and Tom decorated with iron lace, began
Roberts, both Australian to fill the streets of Paddington
Impressionist painters, set up an (see pp124–9) and Glebe (p133)
artists’ camp overlooking from the 1870s onwards.
Sydney Harbour in Mosman.

1877 Caroline Chisholm, a philanthropist 1890 First Tivoli Theatre programme
who helped immigrant women, dies
electric trams
1880 The Bulletin magazine is run between 1896 Moving
launched. Captain Moonlight, Bondi Junction pictures come to the
a notorious bushranger, is hanged and Waverley Tivoli Theatre
1880 1890
1879 Steam tramway Steam tram 1891 Labor Party enters
travels from the city the political arena
to Redfern 1900 Queen Victoria consents to
1888 Louisa Lawson’s journal the formation of the
Dawn published Commonwealth of Australia.
Bubonic plague breaks out




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30  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney Between the Wars

Federation took place on 1 January 1901 and New South
Wales became a state of the Australian nation. In Sydney,
new wharves were built, roads widened and slums cleared.
The 1920s were colourful and optimistic in “the city of pleasure”.
The skyline bristled with cranes as modern structures replaced
their ornate predecessors. The country was hit hard by the
Great Depression in 1931, but economic salvation came in Growth of the City
the form of rising wool prices and growth in manufacturing. Today 1945
The opening of the Sydney Harbour Bridge in 1932 was a
consolidation of all the changes brought by Federation The poster depicts
and urbanization. the youthful vigour
of the nation.











Home in the Suburbs
The Federation bungalow became a unique
architectural style (see p43). Verandas, gables and
chimneys featured amid much red brick.
Surf lifesaver


“Making Do”
This chair, made in 1910, used
packing case timber, cotton
reels, fencing
wire and the
mouldings
of picture
frames.
Sydney Harbour Bridge
After nine years of construction,
the largest crowd ever seen in Sydney
Bronzed Lifesavers greeted the bridge’s opening.
No surf beach was com plete Considered a wonder of engineering
without these supervisors at the time, it linked the harbour’s
forever looking to sea. north and south shores.
Miles Franklin 1912 High-rise era begins in 1920 Prince Edward, the
Sydney with the erection of the
1901 Miles Prince of Wales, visits
Franklin’s My 14-storey Culwulla Chambers in
Brilliant Career Macquarie Street. First surfboard 1918 Sydneysiders greet
is published arrives in Sydney from Hawaii the Armistice riotously
1900 1910 1920
1902 Women win the right 1907 Trunk line 1919 The Archibald
to vote in New South Wales between Melbourne Prize for portraiture is
and Sydney opens first awarded. Influenza
1901 Proclamation of the epidemic hits Sydney
Commonwealth of Australia. Edmund Poster for telephone
Barton elected as first prime minister trunk line 1915 Anzacs land at Gallipoli




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THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  31

Luna Park
This harbourside amuse ment Where to See Early
park opened in 1935 (see p134). 20th-Century Sydney
A maniacally grinning face
looms at the entranceway. The years after Federation yielded
Millions of Australians recall stylish and sensible buildings
the terrifying thrill of running like Central Railway Station, the
the gauntlet through the Commonwealth Savings Bank in
gaping mouth as children. Martin Place (see p42) and the
State Library of New South Wales.
The suburbs of Haberfield and
Strathfield best exemplify the
Fed eration style of gentrified
residential housing.
One million people
crossed the bridge on
its opening day.












Donald Bradman The Anzac Memorial (1934)
The 1932 English team is in Hyde Park (see pp88–9).
used “dirty” tactics to The Art Deco memorial, with its
outsmart this brilliant reflecting pool, commemorates
cricketer, almost caus ing all Australians killed in wars.
a diplomatic rift with
Great Britain.









The wireless became a popular
fixture in most sitting rooms in
Australian Women’s Weekly the 1930s. This 1935 AWA Radio­
This magazine, first published in lette is held at the Powerhouse
1933, became a family institu tion Museum (see pp102–103).
full of homespun wisdom, recipes,
stories and handy hints.
1924 Sydney swimmer 1937 Heyday 1938 Sydney
Andrew “Boy” Charlton of painted celebrates her 1942 Japanese
wins a gold medal at the glass pub 150th anniversary midget sub­
Paris Olympics Painted glass art depicting marines enter
pub sign local heroes Sydney Harbour
1920 1930 1940
1928 Kingsford Smith 1935 Luna 1939 Australia 1941 Australia
and Ulm make first Park opens declares war declares war on Japan
flight across Pacific in on Germany
the Southern Cross 1932 Sydney Harbour
Bridge opens 1945 Street celebrations mark
Kingsford Smith, Ulm the end of World War II




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32  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Modern Sydney

The postwar baby boom and mass immigration, initially from
Britain and Europe, created a suburban sprawl. The 1970s saw
rapid social transformation, with political unrest around the
Vietnam War, increased migration from Asia, the start of the
sky scraper boom and the opening of the Sydney Opera House
(see pp76–9). In the 1980s, Darling Harbour was redeveloped
as a cultural and entertainment hub for Australia’s bicentenary. Growth of the City
Sydney came of age as a global city after hosting the 2000 Today 1966
Olympics. As the population continues to grow, major high- Nighttime light projections
rise residential, commercial and parkland developments, such transfom major landmarks into an
as Barangaroo (see p134), are transforming the city. outdoor canvas of art during the
Vivid Sydney festival.












Green Bans
In the 1970s, the Builders’ Labourers
Federation placed work bans on develop-
ments in the inner city in order to preserve
the environment or cultural heritage and
protect low-cost housing from destruc tion
and redevelopment.








Vivid Sydney
From its humble beginnings in 2009 with just 25 light
Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras installations around Circular Quay, Vivid Sydney has
This parade lasts for one night (see p51), grown into the world’s biggest festival of outdoor lights,
but the sur rounding international festival music and ideas. More than 80 installations across the
offers a month of art, sporting and city and 1,500 hours of talks and music events take
community events. place over three weeks from May to June (see p52).

1958 Qantas
1950 Petrol, Airlines embarks 1965 Conscription 1973 Official 1979 Sydney’s
butter and tea on its first re-introduced; first opening of Eastern Suburbs
rationing ends round-the- Johnny regular army battalion the Sydney Railway opens
world flights O’Keefe sent to Vietnam Opera House
1950 1960 1970 1980
1954 Elizabeth II is 1964 Rocker 1973 Patrick White 1978 Brett Whiteley
the first reigning 1959 Population Johnny O’Keefe, wins the Nobel wins Archibald Prize,
monarch to visit of Australia “The Wild One”, Prize for Literature Wynne Prize and
Australia reaches 10 million continues to top Sulman Prize for
the music charts three works of art
Patrick White




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THE HIST OR Y OF SY DNEY  33


Mr Eternity
Arthur Stace (1885–1967),
a reformed alcoholic, was
inspired by an evangelist who
said that he wanted to “shout
eternity through the streets of
Sydney”. “I felt a powerful call from
the Lord to write ‘Eter nity’.” At least
50 times a day, for over 30 years,
Sydney Olympic Park he chalked this word in perfect
The facilities built west of the city centre for the 2000 Olympic copper plate on the footpaths
Games are a lasting legacy for a booming population that lives and walls of the city. A plaque
and works in this precinct. The ANZ Stadium hosts matches in Sydney Square pays tribute
of the rugby union, rugby league, Australian Football League to Mr Eternity’s endeavours.
and the Australian national soccer team.













Arthur Stace and “Eternity”, 1963
Bicentenary
The re-enactment of the First
Fleet’s journey ended in
Sydney Harbour on Australia
Day, 1988. A chaotic flotilla
greeted the “tall ships”.








Oz Magazine, 1963–73 Aboriginal Land Rights
This satirical magazine was the mouth piece In 1975, the first handover
of an irreverent generation inspired by a of land was made to Vincent
left-wing subculture of intellectuals known Lingiari, representative of the
as the Sydney Push, who challenged the Gurindji people, by Prime
status quo from the 1940s to the 1970s. Minister Gough Whitlam.

1990 Population of Australia 2007 Sydney 2015 Malcolm
reaches 17 million 2003 England stages first Earth Turnbull becomes
beats Australia Hour and Live Australia’s fourth 2016 Australia’s
1997 INXS singer Michael as Sydney hosts Earth concert for Prime Minister in population reaches
Hutchence commits the Rugby World climate change 5 years following a 23 million; Sydney’s
suicide in a Sydney hotel Cup final tops 5 million
awareness leadership challenge
1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1992 Sydney Harbour 2010 Julia Gillard named as country’s 2013 Kevin Rudd 2015 Barangaroo
Tunnel opens first female Prime Minister becomes Prime Reserve opens,
Minister for a second transforming the
1989 Earthquake strikes 2000 Sydney hosts the time, only to lose to Sydney Harbour
Newcastle causing first Olympic Games of Tony Abbott three headland foreshore
extensive damage the new millennium months later



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INTRODUCING SY DNEY  35

SYDNEY AT A GLANCE

There are more than 100 places of interest make the most of your stay, the following
described in the Area by Area section of this 14 pages are a time-saving guide to the best
book. A broad range of sights is covered: from Sydney has to offer. Museums and galleries,
the Colonial simplicity of Hyde Park Barracks architecture and parks and reserves all have
(see pp116–17) to the ornate Victorian terraces sections of their own. There is also a guide to
of Paddington; from the tranquillity of the diverse cultures that have helped to shape
Centennial Park (see p129) to the bustle of the the city into what it is today. Below is a selection
cafés and shops of Oxford Street. To help you of attractions that no visitor should miss.

Sydney’s Top Ten Attractions








The Rocks
See pp64–79





Sydney Opera House
See pp76–9 Royal Botanic Garden
See pp106–7



Art Gallery of New South Wales
See pp110–13










Oxford Street and Darling Harbour
Sydney Tower Paddington and Chinatown Taronga Zoo
See p85 See pp118–29 See pp92–103 See pp136–7










Harbour ferries Sydney’s beaches
See pp234–5 See pp56–7
Sydney Harbour Bridge (see pp72–3) and city skyline, from Lavender Bay



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36  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Sydney is well endowed with museums and galleries, and much
emphasis is placed on social history, examining the life styles of past
and present Sydneysiders. Most of the major collections are housed
in architecturally significant buildings – the Classical façade of the
Art Gallery of NSW makes it a city landmark, while the Museum of
Con temporary Art adds a modern twist to a 1950s Art Deco-style
building at Circular Quay. Small museums are also a feature of the
Sydney scene, with a number of historic houses recalling the Colonial
days. These are covered in greater depth on pages 38–9.
Museum of Sydney
The Edge of the Trees is an interactive
installation by the entrance.



THE ROCKS
AND CIRCULAR
QUAY



BOTANIC
GARDEN AND
THE DOMAIN

Museum of Contemporary Art
This waterfront space is Australia’s only museum CITY
dedicated to exhibiting national and international CENTRE
contemporary art.

The National KINGS CROSS AND
Maritime Museum DARLINGHURST
The museum is the
home port for HMS
Endeavour, a replica
of the vessel that
charted Australia’s
east coast in 1770,
with Cap tain Cook
in command. DARLING HARBOUR
AND SURRY HILLS







PADDINGTON
Powerhouse Museum
This museum, set in a
0 metres 500
former power station,
0 yards 500 uses both traditional
and interactive displays
to explore Australian
innovations in science
and technology.



036-037_EW_Sydney.indd 36 29/05/17 12:18 pm

SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  37


Art Gallery of New South Wales
The Australian collection includes
Colonial watercolours which, to avoid
deterioration, are only shown for a few
weeks each year, such as Charles Meere’s
Australian Beach Pattern (1940).










Elizabeth Bay House
The dining room is elegantly
furnished to the 1840s period,
when the Colonial Secretary
THE ROCKS Alexander Macleay briefly lived
AND CIRCULAR in the house that ultim ately
QUAY caused his bankruptcy.



BOTANIC
GARDEN AND
THE DOMAIN


CITY
CENTRE

Hyde Park Barracks Museum
KINGS CROSS AND Originally built by convicts for their
DARLINGHURST own incarceration, these barracks were
later home to poor female immigrants.
Exhibits recall the daily life of these
occupants.



DARLING HARBOUR
AND SURRY HILLS







PADDINGTON Sydney Jewish Museum
The history of the city’s
Jewish community
is documented
Australian Museum here. Included is a
Discover the Earth’s age, find out reconstruction of
about meteorites, volcanic activity George Street in 1848,
and dinosaurs at Australia’s largest a major location for
natural history museum. Jewish businesses.




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38  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Exploring Sydney’s Museums and Galleries

Sydney is home to a flourishing arts scene and the country’s
largest cultural institutions, which welcome more than
10 million visitors each year. Among its most popular
attractions are a rich variety of museums and galleries.
As well as examining the cultural, artistic and historical
heritage and future of Australia’s biggest city – and of the
country as a whole – the range of museums covers natural
history, science and antiquities, as well as other areas. From Detail from Window of Dreams at the
the traditional to the cutting edge, there is a museum or Australian National Maritime Museum
gallery to suit every taste.
Technology and
Australian works as well as Natural History
a gallery devoted to Asian The undisputed leader in
art and a collection of con- this area is the Powerhouse,
temporary and photo graphic with traditional and interactive
works. Thematic temporary displays covering fields
exhibitions are also a regular as diverse as space travel,
feature here. silent films and solar energy.
The newer Museum of The Australian National
Contemporary Art (MCA) is Maritime Museum has the
best known for its impressive world’s fastest boat, Spirit of
blockbuster exhibitions. Many Australia, as part of its indoor/
of these take advantage of its outdoor display. Also part of
prime harbour site to create a their fleet are the destroyer
fine sense of spectacle. It also HMAS Vampire, the Onslow (a
has a considerable permanent sub marine), and the James Craig
collection, and hosts literary (1874), a three-masted barque.
readings and talks. The Australian Museum,
The Brett Whiteley Studio, in contrast, emphasizes natural
Collage on one of the internal doors of the housed in the studio of the history with its displays of the
Brett Whiteley Studio late artist, commemorates exotic and extinct: from birds,
the life and works of perhaps insects and rock samples to
the most celebrated and giant Australian megafauna.
Visual Arts contro versial Sydney painter
The Art Gallery of NSW has of the late 20th century. Aboriginal Culture
one of the finest existing The substantial collection
collections of modern of Australian painting and With more than 200 works, both
Australian and Aboriginal art. sculp ture held by the S H Ervin traditional and contem porary,
It also boasts an outstanding Gallery is supplemented by on display, the Art Gallery of
collection of late 19th- and frequent thematic and other NSW’s Yiribana Gallery has the
early 20th-century English and specialized exhibitions. best and most comprehensive

















Jabarrgwa Wurrabadalumba’s
Dugong Hunt (1948), Art Gallery of NSW




038-039_EW_Sydney.Indd 38 29/05/17 12:18 pm

SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  39


collection of Aboriginal art in
the country. The Australian
Museum has displays ranging
from rocks and minerals, birds
and insects to the permanent
indigenous exhibition. In its
com munity access space, it also
presents performances that
celebrate Aboriginal culture.
The First Australians exhibit
at the Australian National
Maritime Museum includes
audio and video material, with
traditional tools made by
Aboriginal communities.
The Museum of Sydney The Georgian-style front bedroom in the cottage at Elizabeth Farm
uses images, artifacts and oral
histories to evoke the life of the visible under windows at the
Eora, the indigenous people of entrance to the museum. Specialist Museums
the Sydney region, up to the Susannah Place Museum The Nicholson Museum at the
years of first contact with the looks at working-class life in University of Sydney houses
European colonists. the 19th century. Cadman’s the southern hemisphere’s
Cottage, also in The Rocks, is largest collection of antiquities.
a simple stone dwelling dating The Justice and Police Museum
Colonial History from 1816 and the city’s oldest examines a far less comfortable
Elizabeth Bay House’s superb extant building. Adjacent is the history, investigating Australian
interior is furnished to show Sailors’ Home, built in 1864 crime and punishment, while
early Colonial life at its most as lodgings for visiting sailors. the Caroline Simpson Library
elegant, but while at first the It now houses the Billich Gallery, & Research Collection at The
house may appear to home to works by the Mint covers the history of
celebrate a success prominent Australian Australian homes and gardens.
story, the enormous Surrealist painter, Experiences of Jewish migrants
cost of its construction Charles Billich (see p69). to Australia and the story of the
brought bankruptcy to The important role of Holocaust are examined at the
its owner. Also built in gold in the history of Sydney Jewish Museum.
grand style, Vaucluse Australia and how it
House celebrates the determined patterns Finding the Museums
life and times of W C of migration and
Wentworth, explorer expansion are shown and Galleries
and politician. at the Powerhouse Art Gallery of NSW pp110–13
Experiment Farm Museum. Hyde Park Australian Museum pp90–91
Cottage, Hambledon Water dip Barracks Museum Australian National Maritime
Cottage and Elizabeth at Experiment evokes the often brutal Museum pp96–7
Farm in and around Farm Cottage lives and times of the Brett Whiteley Studio p132
Parramatta are testament convicts who were Cadman’s Cottage p70
to the crucial role of agriculture housed there in the early 19th Elizabeth Bay House p122
in the survival of a colony that century, while not neglecting Elizabeth Farm pp140–41
was brought to the brink of its other place in history as an Experiment Farm Cottage p141
starvation. The former has immigration depot. Hambledon Cottage p141
been restored as a gentleman’s Hyde Park Barracks
cottage of the mid-19th century, Museum pp116–17
while the latter two have been Justice and Police Museum p74
furnished to the period of The Mint p116
Museum of Contemporary
1820–50. Parramatta’s Old Art p75
Government House was once Museum of Sydney p87
the vice-regal “inland” residence. Nicholson Museum p132
The Colonial furniture on Old Government House p141
display predates 1855. Powerhouse Museum pp102–3
The Museum of Sydney S H Ervin Gallery, National
is built on the site of the first Trust Centre p75
Government House, close to Susannah Place Museum p69
Sydney Cove. On display are Sydney Jewish Museum p123
unearthed relics from that Side view of the veranda at Elizabeth Farm, Vaucluse House p138
building, some of which are near Parramatta




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40  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Best: Architecture

Sydney possesses a large diversity of architectural styles,
from the simplicity of Francis Greenway’s Georgian buildings
(see p116) to Jørn Utzon’s Expressionist Sydney Opera House
(see pp76–9) and Frank Gehry’s Post modern Dr Chau Chak Wing
Building (see p132). Practical Colonial structures gave way to
elaborate Victorian edifices such as Sydney Town Hall, and Colonial Convict
The first structures were very simple
the same passion for detail is seen in Paddington’s terraces. yet formal English-style cottages
Federation buildings brought in a uniquely Australian style. with shingled roofs and no verandas.
Cadman’s Cottage is a fine repre-
sentative of this style.
Contemporary
Governor Phillip Tower is a
modern commercial building
incorporating a historical site
(see p87).

THE ROCKS
AND CIRCULAR
QUAY

Colonial Georgian BOTANIC
Francis Greenway’s GARDEN AND
courthouse design was THE DOMAIN
ordered to be adapted to
suit the purposes of a church.
St James’ Church is the result.

CITY
CENTRE
KINGS CROSS AND
DARLINGHURST



American Revivalism
Shopping arcades
connecting streets,
such as the Queen
Victoria Building,
were 1890s vogue. DARLING HARBOUR
AND SURRY HILLS

Victorian
The Town Hall interior
Contemporary Expressionism includes Australia’s first
Innovations in sports stadiums and pressed metal ceiling,
museum architecture, such as the National installed for fear that
Maritime Museum, empha size roof design the organ would vib rate
and the silhouette. a plaster one loose. PADDINGTON



0 metres 500 Interwar Architecture
Bruce Dellit’s Anzac Memorial in
0 yards 500
Hyde Park, with sculptures by
Raynor Hoff, encapsulates the spirit,
form and detail of Art Deco.



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SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  41

Modern Expressionism
One of the world’s greatest examples of
20th-century architecture, Jørn Utzon’s
Sydney Opera House beat 234 entries in a
design competition. Work commenced in
1959 and, despite the architect’s resig nation
in 1966, it was opened in 1973.














THE ROCKS Australian Regency
AND CIRCULAR During the 1830s, the best-designed villas
QUAY Early Colonial were the work of John Verge. Elizabeth Bay
The first buildings of House was his masterpiece.
char acter and quality,
such as Hyde Park
BOTANIC Barracks, were for
GARDEN AND the government.
THE DOMAIN Colonial Grecian
Greek Revival was the
major style for public
buildings, such as
the Darlinghurst Court
CITY House, designed by
CENTRE the Colonial Architect
in the 1820–50 period.
KINGS CROSS AND
DARLINGHURST

Victorian Iron Lace
Festooned with a filigree of
cast-iron lace in a wide
range of prefabricated
patterns, Paddington
verandas demonstrate
DARLING HARBOUR 1880s workmanship.
AND SURRY HILLS








PADDINGTON



Colonial Military
Victoria Barracks, designed by
engineers, is an impressive
example of a well-preserved
Georgian military compound.




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42  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Exploring Sydney’s Architecture

While European settlement in Sydney has a relatively short
history, architectural styles have rapidly evolved from provincial
British buildings and the simplicity of convict structures,
many of which used local sandstone. From the mid-19th
century until the present day, architectural innovations
have borrowed from a range of international trends to
create vernac ular styles more suited to local materials and
conditions. The signs of affluence and austerity, from gold
rush to depression, are also manifested in bricks and mortar.

Australian Regency
Just as the Colonial style was
reaching its zenith, the city’s
increasingly moneyed society Entrance detail from the Victorian
abandoned it as undignified St Patrick’s Seminary in Manly
and unfashionable. London’s
residential architecture, exem­
Façade of the Colonial Susannah Place, plified by John Soane under the Victorian
with corner shop window Prince Regent’s patronage, was This prosperous era featured
in favour from the 1830s to the confident business people and
1850s. Fine examples of this shift merchants who designed their
Colonial Architecture towards Regency are John Verge’s own premises. Tracts of the city
Little remains of the Colonial stylish town houses at 39–41 west of York Street and south of
buildings from 1790–1830. Lower Fort Street (1834–6), The Bathurst Street are testimony to
The few structures still stand ing Rocks, and the adjoining Bligh these self­assured projects. The
have a simple robustness and House built for a wealthy mer­ cast­iron and glass Strand Arcade
unassuming dignity. They rely chant in 1833 in High Colonial (1891) by J B Spencer originally
more on form, proportion style complete with Greek included a gas and electricity
and mass than on detail. Classical Doric veranda columns. system, and hydraulic lifts.
The Rocks area has one of Regency­style homes often Government architect James
the best collections of early had Grecian, French and Italian Barnet’s best work includes the
Colonial buildings: Cadman’s details. Elizabeth Bay House “Venetian Renaissance” style
Cottage (1816), the Argyle (1835–8), internally the finest General Post Office, Martin
Stores (1826) and Susannah of all John Verge’s works, is Place (1864–87), and the
Place Museum (1844). The particularly noted for its can­ ex travagant Lands Department
Georgian Hyde Park Barracks tilevered staircase rising to the Building (1877–90) with its four
(1819) and St James’ Church arcaded gallery. The cast­iron iron staircases and, origin ally,
(1820), by Francis Greenway Ionic­columned Tusculum Villa patent lifts operated by water
(see p116), as well as the Greek (1831) by the same archi tect power. The Great Syna gogue
Revival Darlinghurst Court at Potts Point (see p120) is (1878), St Mary’s Cathedral
House (1835) and Victoria unusual in that it is encircled (1882), St Patrick’s Seminary
Barracks(1841–8) are excel­ by a double­storeyed veranda, (1885), Sydney Town Hall and
lent examples of this period. now partially enclosed. Paddington Street are also of
this period.

American Revivalism
After federation in 1901,
architects looked to styles
such as Edwardian, American
Romanesque and Beaux Arts
from overseas for commercial
buildings. The former National
Mutual Building (1892) by
Edward Raht set the change
of direction, followed by ware­
house buildings in Sussex and
Kent Streets. The Romanesque
The Australian Regency-style Bligh House in Dawes Point Queen Victoria Building




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SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  43


(1893–98) was a grand coun cil
project by George McRae. Federation Architecture
The distinctive Beaux Arts This distinctly urban style of architecture developed to meet the
Common wealth Savings Bank demands of the prosperous, newly emerging middle classes at the time
(1928) features an elaborate of Federation in 1901. Particular features are high-pitched roofs, which
chamber in Neo-Classical style. form a picturesque composition or architectural tableau, incorporating
intricate gables, wide verandas and
Interwar Architecture chimneys. The decorative timber
fretwork the verandas and archways
Architecture between and the leadlight windows
World Wars I and II produced reveal the influence of the
skyscrapers such as the City Art Nouveau period, as do
Mutual Life Assurance Build­ the vibrant red roof tiles.
ing (1936), by Emil Sodersten. Patriotic references are
This building exhibits German seen throughout, and
Expressionist influences such Australian flora and
as pleated or zigzag windows. fauna are recurring
Two important structures decorative motifs. “Verona” in The Appian Way, Burwood
are the ANZAC Memorial
(1929–34) in Hyde Park and
Delfin House (1938–40), by the is a 67-storey office tower Where to Find
Art Deco architect Bruce Dellit. comprising a reinforced the Buildings
The latter, a skyscraper, features concrete tube structure
a vaulted ceiling and a granite with column-free floors. ABN-AMRO Tower, cnr Philli
arch decorated with an allegory Jørn Utzon’s Sydney Opera & Bent St. Map 1 C4.
of modern life. House (1959–73) is widely Allianz Stadium. Map 5 C4.
regarded as one of the archi- Anzac Memorial p88
tectural wonders of the world. Argyle Stores p70
Australia Square, cnr George &
Bond Sts. Map 1 B3.
Contemporary Australian National Maritime
Architecture Museum pp96–7
The elliptical Allianz Stadium Bligh House, 43 Lower Fort St,
(1985–8) and the Australian Dawes Point. Map 1 B2.
Cadman’s Cottage p70
National Maritime Museum City Mutual Life Assurance Building,
(1986–9), both by Philip Cox, cnr Hunter & Bligh Sts. Map 1 B4.
make use of advanced steel Commonwealth Savings Bank
engineering systems. Detailed of Australia, Martin Place p86
masonry has made a return to Darlinghurst Court House p123
com mercial buildings such as Delfin House, 16–18 O’Connell St.
the highly regarded Governor Map 1 B4.
Phillip Tower (1989–94). The Dr Chau Chak Wing Building p132
dictates of office design do Elizabeth Bay House p122
not detract from the historical General Post Office, Martin Place p86
Museum of Sydney, ingenious ly Governor Phillip Tower p87
The 67-storey MLC Centre in Martin Place, sited on the lower floors. Great Synagogue p88
by architect Harry Seidler The ABN­AMRO Tower Hyde Park Barracks pp116–17
at Aurora Place (2000) was Lands Department Building p86
designed by Renzo Piano 39–41 Lower Fort Street, Dawes
Modern Architecture Point. Map 1 B1.
and was awarded the Sulman
From the mid-1950s, modern Prize for Architecture in 2004. MLC Centre, Martin Place p86
architecture was introduced Challenging conven tional design, National Mutual Building,
to the city through glass-clad the 41-storey, 200-m- (656-ft-) 350 George St. Map 1 B4.
curtain-walled office blocks, tall building fans wider as it rises. Paddington Street p128
Queen Victoria Building p84
proportioned like matchboxes Frank Gehry’s striking Dr Chau St James’ Church p117
on their ends. The contrasting Chak Wing Building (2015) St Mary’s Cathedral p88
expressed frame approach divides opinion with its warped St Patrick’s Seminary p149
of Australia Square (1961–7) façade of undulating brickwork. Strand Arcade p86
gives structural stability to one The interior is equally striking, Susannah Place Museum p69
of the world’s tallest light weight with the building designed Sydney Opera House pp76–9
concrete office towers. This from the inside out. It won the Sydney Town Hall p89
city block was formed by amal- 2016 Australia Engineering Tusculum Villa p120
gamating 30 properties. Harry Excellence Bradfield Award, Victoria Barracks p129
Seidler’s MLC Centre (1975–8) among many other accolades.



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44  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Many Cultures

Sydney has one of the world’s most cosmopolitan
societies, reflected in the extraordinary variety of
restaurants, religions, community centres and cultural
activities to be found throughout the city and its
environs. Over 235 birthplaces outside Australia were
named in the last census. Indeed, the Sydney telephone
directory lists interpreting services for 22 languages,
including Greek, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, Vietnamese,
Turkish, Korean and Arabic, and many of these groups Thai Community
Thai culinary traditions have
have their own newspapers. While immigrants have caused a revolution in Sydney
settled all over the city, there are still pockets of eating houses. The Loy Krathong
Sydney that retain a distinctive ethnic flavour. Festival in Parramatta celebrates
the transplanted Thai culture.








Thailand

Auburn Mosque
This lavish mosque rises above the
thriving Turkish businesses nearby.
Turkey



Cambodian Cambodia
Cabramatta is the hub of
the Cambodian com munity.
Songkran, the three-day
new year celebration is Vietnam Lebanon
held at Bonnyrigg.
Philippines


Filipinos
Over 60 per cent of this rapidly
expand ing migrant group arrive
as the brides of Australian men.



Vietnamese
This sculpture of a cow stands in
Cabramatta’s Freedom Plaza, an
area offering all the sights, smells
and street life of Southeast Asia.
Lakemba
Once known as “potato
hill” for its potato farms in
the early colony, today
0 kilometres 4
Lakemba is home to a large
0 miles 2 Lebanese community.



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SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  45

St Patrick’s Day
Sydney’s first settlers, many
of them Irish, made their
home in The Rocks. With
its proliferation of pubs,
it is the focal point for
jubilant St Patrick’s
Day celebrations on
17 March each year.





Little Italy
Long home to the Italian com­
munity, Leichhardt evokes the Jewish Delicatessen
flavour of Europe with its bars, The sizeable Jewish
cafés, restaurants and a sprawling community in the city’s
annual street fair. eastern suburbs, about
half of whom were born
in Aust ralia, is well served
by kosher supermarkets
and butchers’ shops.







Ireland




Italy China Israel


Lebanon Indigenous Australia
Greece



Aboriginal Peoples
The annual Yabun Festival is
held on 26 January in Victoria
Park, Camperdown on the
traditional land of the Cadigal
people (see p51).





Chinese New Year
Each year, revellers
pack Dixon Street,
St Nicholas Church at the heart of
Marrickville’s Greek Orthodox Chinatown, to
church is the home of worship celebrate with
for the community, mostly fireworks and
based in the southern suburbs. Chinese dragons.




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46  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Best: Parks and Reserves

Sydney is almost completely surrounded by national parks
and intact bushland. There are also a number of national
parks and reserves within Greater Sydney itself. Here, the
visitor can gain some idea of how the landscape looked
before the arrival of European settlers. The city parks,
too, are filled with plant and animal life. The more formal
plantings of both native and exotic species are countered
by the indigenous birds and animals that have adapted
and made the urban environment their home. One of the
highlights of a trip to Sydney is the huge variety of birds Garigal National Park
to be seen, from large birds of prey such as sea eagles and Rainforest and moist gullies
kites, to the shyer species such as wrens and tiny finches. provide shelter for superb
lyrebirds and sugar gliders.














Lane Cove National Park
The open eucalypt forest is dotted
with grass trees, as well as fine stands
of red and blue gums. The rosella,
a type of parrot, is common.
North Arm Walk
In spring, grevilleas and flannel flowers
bloom profusely on this foreshore walk.









Barangaroo Reserve
This former industrial site has been transformed
into a six-hectare (15-acre) park on the Sydney
Harbour headland foreshore.

Hyde Park
Bicentennial Park Situated on the edge of
Situated at the city centre, the park
Homebush Bay provides a peaceful respite
on the Parramatta from the he c tic streets. The
River, the park native iris is just one of the
features a mangrove plants found in the
habitat. It attracts lush gardens. The
many water birds, sacred ibis, a water
including pelicans. bird, is often seen.




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SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  47

Middle Head and
Obelisk Bay
Gun emplacements,
tunnels and bunkers
built in the 1870s to
protect Sydney from
invasion by sea dot the
area. The superb fairy
wren lives here and
water dragons can
at times be seen North Head
basking on rocks.
Coastal heathland, with banksias, tea trees
and casuarinas, dominates the cliff tops.
On the leeward side, moist forest surrounds
Grotto Point tiny harbour beaches.
Bottlebrushes, grevilleas
and flannel flowers line
paths winding through the
bush to the lighthouse.


South Head
Unique plant species
such as the sundew
cover this heathland.
Bradleys Head
The headland is
a nesting place
for the ringtail
possum. Noisy
flocks of rainbow
lorikeets are also
often in residence.
0 kilometres 4
0 miles 2
Nielsen Park
The kookaburra
is easily identi­
fied by its call,
which sounds The Domain
like laughter. Palms and More ton
Bay figs are a feature
of this former
common. The
Australian magpie,
with its black and
white plumage,
is a frequent visitor.






Centennial Park
Lakes, ponds and groves of
paperbark and eucalypt
trees are home to a variety
Moore Park of birds, such as black
Huge Moreton swans and sulphur­crested
Bay figs provide cockatoos. The bushtail
an urban habitat possum is a shy creature
for the flying fox. that comes out at night.




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48  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Exploring the Parks and Reserves

Despite 200 years of European settlement, Sydney’s parks
and reserves contain a surprising variety of native wildlife.
Approximately 2,000 species of native plants, 1,000 cultivated
and weed species and 300 bird species have managed to
adapt favourably to the changes.
Several quite distinct vegetation types are protected in
the bushland around Sydney, and these in turn provide
shelter for a wide range of birds and animals. Even the more
formal parks such as Hyde Park and the Royal Botanic Garden
are home to many indigenous species, allowing the visitor
a glimpse of the city’s diverse wildlife. Colourful and noisy rainbow lorikeets at
Manly’s Collins Beach
are casuarinas (Allocasuarina one unless you poke under rocks
Coastal Hinterland species) and banksias (Banksia and logs. A common plant in this
One reason Sydney has so species), both of which attract habitat is the cabbage tree palm
many heathland parks, such smaller birds such as honey- (Livistona australis). Its heart was
as those found at South Head eaters and blue wrens. used as a vegetable by the early
and North Head, is that the European settlers.
soil along the city’s coastline is Rainforest and The soft tree fern (Dicksonia
deficient in almost every known antartctica) decorates the gu l lies
nutrient. What these areas lack Moist Forest and creeks of moist forest. You
in fertility, they make up for in Rainforest remnants do exist in may see a ringtail possum
species diversity. a few parts of Sydney, especially (Pseudocheirus peregrinus) nest
Heathland contains in the Royal National Park to the at the top of one of these ferns
literally hundreds of south of the city (see pp166–7). at Bradleys Head. The nest looks
species of plants, Small pockets can also be rather like a hairy football and
including some found in Garigal is found in hollow trees or ferns
unique flora that National Park, Ku-ring- and shrubs.
have adapted to the gai Chase (see pp156–7) Rainbow lorikeets (Trichoglossus
poor soil. The most and some gullies haematodus) also inhabit
surprising ones running down to Bradleys Head, as well as
are the carnivorous Middle Harbour. The Clifton Gardens and Collins
plants, which rely on superb lyrebird (Menura Beach. Early in the morning,
passing insects for their novaehol landiae) is a they shoot through the forest
food. The tiny sundew Red bottlebrush feature of these forest canopy like iridescent bullets.
(Drosera spa tulata), so (Callistemon sp.) areas. The sugar glider
called because of its (Petaurus breviceps), a Open Eucalypt Forest
sparkling foliage, is small species of possum, can
the commonest of the some times be heard calling to Some of Sydney’s finest
carnivorous species. This low- its mate during the night. smooth-barked apple gums
growing plant snares insects One of the deadliest spiders (Angophora costata) are in the
on its sticky, reddish leaves, in the world, the Sydney funnel- Lane Cove National Park. These
which lie flat on the ground. web (Atrax robustus, see p91), also ancient trees, with their gnarled
Two other distinctive plants lives here. You are unlikely to see pinkish trunks, lend an almost
“lost world” feeling.
Tall and straight blue gums
(Eucalyptus saligna) stand in
the lower reaches of the park,
where the soil is better, while
the smaller grey-white scrib bly
gum (Eucalyptus rossii), with its
distinctive gum veins, lives on
higher slopes. If you examine
the markings on a scribbly gum
closely, you will see they start
out thin, gradu ally become
thicker, then take a U-turn and
stop. This is the track made by
Coastal heathland lining the cliff tops at Manly’s North Head an ogmograptis caterpillar the




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