(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sydney

D ARLING HARBOUR AND SURR Y HILLS  99

3 WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo contains over 100 Australian land- Practical Information
dwelling species, including insects, birds, reptiles and Aquarium Wharf, Darling Harbour.
Map 4 D2. Tel 1800 614 069.
mammals. Together with the nearby aquarium, the complex Open 9:30am–5pm daily (last
comprises the world’s largest collection of native Australian adm 4pm) (Dec–Mar: to 6pm; last
animal species to be housed in one location. In the heart of adm 5pm). & 7 8 - =
∑ wildlifesydney.com.au
Darling Harbour, the undulating see-through mesh roof is
a sight to behold in itself. Although compact in size, the zoo Transport
@ Sydney Explorer. g Darling
contains ten different temperature- and humidity-controlled Har bour.  Town Hall.
habitats, and the experience is enhanced by soundscapes, v Paddy’s Markets.
graphics and interactive models.
Invertebrates
The Outback Adventurers
Café is home to all kinds of
creepy crawlies such as the
carnivorous praying mantis, the
giant rhinoceros cockroach and
the world’s most dangerous
spider – the Sydney funnel-web.
Koalas
A raised walkway under the
open-air mesh roof winds
through the koala and wallaby
habitats and allows visitors
to get closer to these cuddly,
iconic animals and even have
a photo taken with them. The
koala’s diet of eucalyptus leaves
Visitors can get close to kangaroos at WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo is so low in nutrients it has to
conserve energy by moving
Exploring the Zoo Butterfly Tropics slowly and sleeping a lot.
There are multi-attraction The butterfly tropics zone
passes available for WILD contains such spectacular Yellow-Footed Rock Wallaby
LIFE Sydney Zoo and SEA LIFE species as the Zebra, Blue Bounding about on rocks in the
Sydney Aquarium and both Triangle and Ulysses butterflies, Wallaby Cliff habitat, this stripy-
sites can be visited in one day; the latter with its huge 14-cm tailed wallaby is perhaps the
another pass also includes (5.5-in) wingspan. There are most attractive of the kangaroo
Sydney Tower Eye (see p85). also frogs, turtles and species, so much so it
Exhibits are laid out over a green tree python. used to be hunted for
three floors with one kilometre its beautiful fur. Its huge
(0.6 miles) of enclosed walk- Frilled-Neck Lizard feet have strong muscles
ways. The habitats are climate Native to the dry landscape and a brush of stiff hairs
controlled and visitors largely of the Kimberley in north to help it get around
view the animals through Western Australia, this over rocky terrain.
vast viewing panels. bizarre-looking lizard
Throughout the day, feeds flares the folds of skin Southern Cassowary
and talks are given by the around its neck when This distinctive blue-
keepers, and visitors get the feeling threatened or Koala necked bird, a close
chance to get closer to the scared. It will also hiss relation of the emu, is
animals. Another good option and lunge to ward off considered the most dangerous
is to book a group or “VIP” predators. It used to feature bird in the world. It has powerful
guided tour. on the Australian 2c coin. talons and one spear-like inner
claw which can reach up to
Attractions Nocturnal Animals 12 cm (4.7 in) in length. This
WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo groups The Nightfall exhibit features heavy, flight less bird is capable
the animals by their natural animals that venture out in the of killing dogs and even
habi tats and houses a variety dark, such as possums, bilbies, humans if provoked. Around
of intriguing, often unique, bats, quolls, geckos, betongs half of the bird species in
species that are native to the and gliders, including the “false Australia are found nowhere
Austra lian continent. vampire bat” of Australia’s north. else in the world.




098-099_EW_Sydney.indd 99 29/05/17 12:16 pm

100  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

4 Pyrmont Bridge
Darling Harbour. Map 1 A5.  Town
Hall. v Paddy’s Markets, Pyrmont Bay.
7 8
Pyrmont Bridge opened in 1902.
The world’s oldest electrically
operated swingspan bridge,
it was fully functional before
Sydney’s streets were lit by
electricity. It provided access
to what, at the time, was a busy
interna tional shipping terminal
with warehouses and wool
stores. Electricity for the new
bridge came from the Ultimo
power station, the building that
now houses the Powerhouse Pavillions in the peaceful Chinese Garden of Friendship, a traditional Chinese garden
Museum (see pp102–3).
Percy Allan, the bridge’s 5 ICC Sydney other the state of New South
designer, went on to design Darling Harbour. Map 4 D3. v Paddy’s Wales. In the centre of the wall,
583 more bridges. J J Bradfield, Markets, Convention, Exhibition Centre, a carved pearl, symbolizing
the designer of the Sydney Pyrmont Bay. Tel 9215 7100. Open prosperity, is lifted by the waves.
Harbour Bridge (see pp72–3), daily. - 7 ∑ iccsydney.com.au The lake is covered with lotus
was also involved in construc- and water lilies for much of the
tion of this bridge. A sprawling modern complex year and a rock monster guards
The 369-m- (1,200-ft-) long with a crystalline glass façade, against evil. On the other side
Pyrmont Bridge has 14 spans, ICC Sydney comprises a of the lake is the Twin Pavilion.
with only the two central swing- convention centre, the largest Waratahs (New South Wales’s
spans being made of steel. The exhibition space in Australia and floral sym bol) and flowering
remaining spans are made of the 8,000-seat ICC theatre, all apricots are carved into its wood-
ironbark, an Australian hardwood connected by internal walkways. work, and also grow at its base.
timber. The bridge was perma- It also boasts a huge ballroom A tea house, found at the top
nently closed to road traffic in and the biggest kitchen in the of the stairs in the Tea House
1981, but reopened to pedes- southern hemisphere. The Courtyard, serves traditional
trians when the Darling Harbour multi-purpose venue hosts a Chinese tea and cakes.
complex opened in 1988. It is variety of events, including
also popular with cyclists riding international concerts, festivals,
to work. The central steel swing- conventions and sporting 7 Chinatown
spans are still driven by their fixtures. Adjacent to the mega- Dixon St Plaza, Sydney. Map 4 E–D4.
original motor. The bridge is complex, one of Sydney’s largest  Central. v Paddy’s Markets.
opened regularly to allow boats hotels, the luxury Sofitel, is due
access to and from Cockle Bay. to open at the end of 2017. Originally concentrated
around Dixon and Hay Streets,
Chinatown is expanding to
6 Chinese Garden fill Sydney’s Haymarket area,
of Friendship stretching west to Harris Street,
south to Broadway and east to
Darling Harbour. Map 4 D3. Tel 9240 Castlereagh Street. Visitors will
8788.  Town Hall. v Paddy’s notice Chinese eateries, shops
Markets. Open 9:30am–5pm daily. and signage in nearby areas,
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & - 7 as Chinese businesses grow
limited. ∑ darlingharbour.com
and multiply in line with
Chinatown’s local population.
The Chinese Garden of Friendship While it today rubs shoulders
was built in 1988. It is a tranquil with the eastern and western
refuge from the city streets. The edges of the increasingly slick
garden’s design was a gift to Darling Harbour, for years,
Sydney from its Chinese sister Chinatown was a run-down
city of Guang dong. The Dragon district at the edge of the city’s
Wall is in the lower section beside produce markets. Today Dixon
the lake. It has glazed carvings of Street, its main thoroughfare, has
The view from Pyrmont Bridge looking up two dragons, one representing been spruced up, with street
towards the city centre Guangdong province and the lanterns, archways and public




100-101_EW_Sydney.indd 100 29/05/17 12:16 pm

D ARLING HARBOUR AND SURR Y HILLS  101


spaces featuring trees and supplied much of its produce, pods set among the trees, an
artworks, while still retaining its or the Irish, their main customers. outdoor gym and a children’s
unique character and heritage. Once the shopping centre water play area with a sandpit
The streets of Chinatown are for the inner-city poor, Paddy’s shaded by trees.
distinctive, with greengrocers, Markets is now an integral part
tradi tional herbalists, butchers’ of an ambitious development
shops with wind-dried ducks including residential apart ments q Powerhouse
hanging in their windows and a and the Market City Shopping Museum
Friday night market . Jewellers, Centre. However, the familiar
clothing shops, food courts and clamour and chaotic bargain- See pp102–3.
confectioners fill the arcades. hunting atmosphere of the
Towering over the corner of original marketplace remain.
George Street and Hay Street is Every weekend the market w Surry Hills
a sculpture by artist Lin Li, Golden has up to 800 stalls selling Map 5 A2–5. @ 301, 302, 303, 304, 339.
Water Mouth (1999). Made from everything from fresh produce See Shops and Markets pp200–207.
the trunk of a eucalyptus tree to chickens, T-shirts, towels,
covered in gold-leaf, it is said to trinkets and souvenirs. A curious mixture of funky
bring good fortune to the area. fashion, foodie havens and
shabby seediness can be found
0 The Goods Line on the streets of Surry Hills.
8 Capitol Theatre Newly renovated houses stand
Between Devonshire St tunnel
13 Campbell St, Haymarket. Map 4 E4. (Central Station) and Powerhouse alongside dilapidated dwellings,
Tel 9320 5000.  Central. v Capitol. Museum. Map 4 D4. @ Railway while streets of elegant Victorian
Open performances only. Box office: Square.  Central. v Paddy’s terraces abut modern high-rise
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri & 2 hrs Markets, Exhibition Centre. ∆ 0 - flats and former warehouses
before shows. 7 ∑ capitoltheatre. = 7 ∑ darlingharbour.com converted into cool cafés.
com.au For the visitor, the suburb
Built along a former freight offers a wide range of ethnic
In the mid-1800s a cattle and rail track originating in 1855, this cuisines, often at bargain prices.
corn market was situated here. partly elevated, 500-m- (1640-ft) It is famed for its Lebanese and
It became Paddy’s Market Bazaar long shared pedestrian and Turkish restaurants on Cleveland
with sideshows and an outdoor cycle path is a triumph of urban Street, but you will also find
theatre, in turn replaced by a design. It connects Darling Indian, Chinese, Thai, French
circus with a flood able ring. The Harbour to Central Station and and numerous Italian eateries
present building was erected in Ultimo district’s cultural, media scattered around the suburb,
the 1920s as a luxurious picture and educational institutions, along with stylish pubs.
palace. In the mid-1990s, the including the Powerhouse Once the centre of Sydney’s
cinema was re stor ed, in keep ing Museum, University of garment and fashion trade, Surry
with the original theme of Technology, Sydney, the Hills is still home to a number of
a Florentine Garden. Dr Chau Chak Wing Building factory outlets where clothing,
The Capitol reopened as a (see p132) and the Australian haberdashery, linens and
lyric theatre with productions Broadcasting Corporation. lingerie can be bought at below
staged beneath a Mediterranean- There are various facilities to retail prices. A range of alter native
blue ceiling studded with stars enjoy along the way, including fashion and retro clothing shops
reflecting the southern sky. communal tables, open grassy can also be found at the Oxford
spaces, table tennis tables, study Street end of Crown Street.
9 Paddy’s Markets
Cnr Thomas & Hay Sts, Haymarket. Map
4 D4. Tel 1300 361 589.  Central.
v Paddy’s Markets. Open 10am–6pm
Wed–Sun. Closed 25 Apr, 25 Dec. 7
See also Shops and Markets: p203.
∑ paddysmarkets.com.au
Haymarket, in Chinatown,
is home to Paddy’s Markets,
Sydney’s oldest market. It has
been in this area, on a number
of sites, since 1869 (with only
one five-year absence). The
name’s origin is uncertain, but
is believed to have come from
either the Chinese, who originally The Goods Line, an urban walkway following the route of a historic railway line




100-101_EW_Sydney.indd 101 29/05/17 12:16 pm

102  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

q Powerhouse Museum

This former power station, completed in 1902 to provide power
for Sydney’s tramway system, was redesigned to cater for the
needs of an interactive, hands-on museum. The revamped
Powerhouse opened in 1988. The early collection was housed
in the Garden Palace where the 1879 international exhibi tion
of invention and industry from around the world was held.
Few exhibits survived the devastating 1882 fire, and today’s huge
and ever-expanding collection was gathered after this dis aster.
The building’s monumental scale provides an ideal context for
the epic sweep of ideas encompassed within: everything from the What’s It Like to
realm of space and technol ogy to the decorative and domestic arts. Live in Space?
The museum empha sizes Australian innovations and achievements, Find out how astronauts
celebrating both the extraordinary and the everyday. live and work in space, and
experience weightlessness
in the zero gravity space lab.

Level 2







Transport
Discover the air, land and sea vehicles that helped
shape our way of life.

















Level 1
. Experimentations
Investigate the principles of
temperature, pressure, elec tricity,
magnetism, light, gravity, motion
and chemistry in this exciting
interactive exhibit.



Nuclear Matters Ecologic shows
This is a great space in which the science behind
to explore the complex global warming
worlds of nuclear science, and what can be
medicine and power. done to prevent it.




102-103_EW_Sydney.indd 102 29/05/17 12:16 pm

D ARLING HARBOUR AND SURR Y HILLS  103

Museum Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The museum is housed in two buildings: the former Powerhouse
and the Neville Wran building. There are over 20 exhibitions on four Practical Information
levels, descending from Level 4. The shop, entrance and temporary 500 Harris St, Ultimo. Map 4 D4.
exhibits are on Level 3. Level 2 has Tel 9217 0111. Open 10am–
thematic exhibits. Level 1 has 5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec.
experiments and displays & 7 8 - =
on space, transport Level 4 ∑ maas.museum
and computers. Transport
@ 501. g Darling Harbour.
 Central. v Paddy’s Markets.
















. Boulton and Watt Engine
The oldest surviving rotative
steam engine in the world, it
powered a London brewery for
102 years from 1875. It is regularly
Level 3 put into operation in the museum.








Icons
Explore what makes an
object iconic through more
than 70 items, such as this
Regency settee and matching
armchairs, designed by Thomas
Hope in London in about 1802.


Main entrance
The Neville Wran Building, a 1980s
addition, is based on the design of
grand exhibition halls and railway
stations of the 19th century.

. Locomotive No. 1 Key to Floorplan
Robert Stephenson built this locomo tive Temporary exhibitions
in England in 1854. It hauled the first train in Social History and Design
New South Wales in 1855. Using models and
voices, the display re-creates a 19th-century Science and Technology
day trip for a group of Sydneysiders. Non-exhibition space




102-103_EW_Sydney.indd 103 29/05/17 12:16 pm

MRS
MACQUARIES
POINT
Andrew (Boy)
SYDNEY HARBOUR TUNNEL
Farm Charlton Pool
Cove
S T R E E T MRS MACQ UARIES ROAD

ROYAL BOTANIC M RS MACQUARIES ROAD
GARDEN
CAHILL EXPRESSWAY
SHAKESPEARE
PLACE
M A C Q U A R I E R O A D 12 •13
Martin THE
Place H O S P I T A L DOMAIN R O A D
G A L L E R Y
QUEENS
SQUARE
SIR JOHN YOUNG
A R T
CRESCENT
St James
S T M ARYS ROA D



104-105_EW_Sydney.indd 104 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  105

BOTANIC GARDEN
AND THE DOMAIN

The Royal Botanic Garden Sydney, the site of such as Carols, Opera and Symphony in The
the city’s first European farm, and the adjoining Domain (see p51). The Botanic Garden and
Domain, with its open grassy space, provide The Domain are flanked by some of the city’s
respite from the bustle of the busy city. Tranquil most historic buildings, including the Art
in spite of the regularly congested traffic Gallery of New South Wales and the Mitchell
nearby, they make an ideal spot for a picnic or Wing of the State Library. Nearby, Macquarie
to simply relax. The Royal Botanic Garden has Street is rich in convict and Colonial history,
an extensive collection of native and exotic with the barracks, hospital, church and mint
flora. One of Sydney’s most loved loca tions among the country’s oldest surviving public
for open-air events, The Domain attracts up buildings, while political power brokers can
to 100,000 people to free community concerts often be seen at Parliament House.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Restaurants pp191–2 11 Otto Ristorante
2 Conservatorium of Music 1 Aki’s 12 The Pavilion Kiosk
3 Government House 2 Botanic Garden Café 13 The Pavilion Restaurant
6 Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf 3 Botanic Garden Restaurant 14 Poolside Café
9 State Library of NSW 4 Café at the Gallery 15 Sienna Marina
0 Parliament House 5 Charlie’s
q Sydney Hospital 6 China Doll
w The Mint 7 Chiswick at the Gallery
e Hyde Park Barracks Museum 8 Courtyard Café da Capo
Museums and Galleries 9 Kingsleys Sydney
7 Art Gallery of New South Wales 10 Manta
pp110–13
Churches
r St James’ Church
Islands
5 Fort Denison
MRS
Monuments SYDNEY HARBOUR TUNNEL MACQUARIES
POINT
4 Mrs Macquaries Chair
Parks and Gardens
Andrew (Boy)
1 Royal Botanic Garden pp106–7 Farm Charlton Pool
8 The Domain Cove
S T R E E T MRS MACQ UARIES ROAD

ROYAL BOTANIC M RS MACQUARIES ROAD
0 metres 250 GARDEN
SHAKESPEARE
CAHILL EXPRESSWAY
0 yards 250 PLACE
M A C Q U A R I E R O A D 12 •13
Martin THE
Place H O S P I T A L DOMAIN R O A D
G A L L E R Y
QUEENS
SQUARE
A R T
CRESCENT
St James SIR JOHN YOUNG
See also Street Finder, S T M ARYS ROA D
maps 1 & 2
The lush surroundings of the Royal Botanic Garden For keys to symbols see back flap


104-105_EW_Sydney.indd 105 29/05/17 12:16 pm

106  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

1 Royal Botanic Garden

The Royal Botanic Garden Sydney, an oasis of 30 ha (74 acres) in the
heart of the city, occupies a superb position, wrapped around Farm
BOTANIC
Cove at the harbour’s edge. Established in 1816 as a series of path­ GARDEN AND
ways through shrubbery, it is the oldest living scientific institution THE DOMAIN
in the country and houses an outstanding collection of plants from CITY KINGS CROSS
AND
Australia and overseas. A living museum, the garden is also the site CENTRE DARLINGHURST
of the first European farm in the fledgling colony. Fountains, statues Locator Map
and monuments are today scattered throughout. Plant specimens See Street Finder, maps 1 & 2
collected by Joseph Banks on Captain James Cook’s epic voyage
along the east coast of Australia in 1770 are displayed
in the National Herb arium of New South Wales, an
important centre for research on Australian plants.










. Palm Grove
Begun in 1862, this cool summer haven is
one of the world’s finest outdoor col lections
of palms. There are about 180 species.
Borders planted with kaffir lilies make
a colourful display in springtime.










. Herb Garden
Herbs used worldwide for various pur poses –
culinary, medicinal and aromatic – are on
display here, along with a sensory fountain
and a sundial modelled on the celes tial sphere.

KEY
1 Government House (1897)
2 The Calyx, a glasshouse
constructed for the garden's 200th
birthday in 2016, is a magnificent
structure, integrating indoor and
outdoor areas. It hosts changing
horticultural exhibitions and events.
. Sydney Fernery
3 Cadi Jam Ora, a bush tucker Opened in 1993, on the site
display, features native plants that where earlier ferneries had
would have grown on the site prior previously stood, this feature
to Colonial settlement. garden is a tribute to some
4 Wollemi Pine of the most ancient plants
on earth.



106-107_EW_Sydney.indd 106 29/05/17 12:16 pm

BO T ANIC GARDEN AND THE DOM AIN  107


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Mrs Macquaries Rd. Maps 1 & 2.
Tel 9231 8111. Tours: Tel 9231
8125. Open Mar & Oct: 7am–
6:30pm; Apr & Sep: 7am–6pm;
May & Aug: 7am–5:30pm; Jun &
Jul: 7am–5pm; Nov–Feb: 7am–
8pm. 7 8 10:30am daily, 1pm
Mon–Fri (not Jan & Feb).
∑ rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au
Transport
@ Sydney Explorer, 200, 441.
g Circular Quay.  Martin Place,
Macquarie Wall St James, Circular Quay.
In 1810, work began on
this 290-m- (950-ft-) long
wall intended to separate
the convict domain from
the town’s “respectable
Class of Inhabitants”. Only
a small section remains
standing today.





Choragic Monument (1870)
This replica of the marble monument
of Lysicrates in Athens was sculpted
in sandstone by Walter McGill.
















. Australia’s First
European Farm
It is claimed that some Middle
Garden oblong beds follow
the direction of the first fur rows
ploughed in the colony in 1788.

National Herbarium of
New South Wales
More than 1.2 million of the dried
plant specimens stored here
document biological diversity.
The charting of new plants
0 metres 200
provides essential information for
0 yards 200 conservation decision making.



106-107_EW_Sydney.indd 107 29/05/17 12:16 pm

108  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

2 Conservatorium
of Music The History of
Cockatoo Island
Macquarie St. Map 1 C3. Tel 9351 1222.
@ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St routes. Now deserted, the largest of the 12
 Martin Place. Open 8am–6pm Sydney Harbour islands was used
Mon–Sat (public areas only). Closed to store grain from the 1830s. It was
pub hols, Easter Sat, 24 Dec–2 Jan. 7 a penal establishment from the
8 Wed, Thu & Sat by appt (call 0404 1840s to 1908, with prisoners being
256 256). Free concerts: 1:10pm Wed put to work cons tructing dock
(donation). ∑ music.sydney.edu.au facilities. The infamous bushranger
“Captain Thunderbolt” made his
When it was finished in 1821, escape from Cockatoo in 1863 by
this striking castellated Colonial swimming across to the mainland.
Gothic building was meant to From the 1870s to the 1960s,
be stables and servants’ quarters Cockatoo Island was a thriving
for Govern ment House, but HMS Orlando in dry dock at Cockatoo naval dock yard and shipyard, the
construction of the latter was Island in the 1890s hub of Australian industry.
delayed for almost 25 years. That
stables should be built in so grand
a style, and at such great cost, 3 Government
brought forth cries of outrage House
and led to bitter arguments
between the architect, Francis Macquarie St. Map 1 C2. Tel 9228 4111.
Greenway (see p116), and @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St
Governor Macquarie – and a routes.  Martin Place. House:
decree that all future building Open 10:30am–3pm Fri–Sun
(guided tour only; ID required).
plans be submitted to London. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. Garden:
Between 1908 and 1915, Open 10am–4pm daily. 7 8 every
“Greenway’s folly” underwent 30 mins. ∑ governor.nsw.gov.au
a dramatic transformation. A
con cert hall, roofed in grey slate, What used to be the official
was built on the central courtyard residence of the governor of
and the entire building was New South Wales overlooks
converted for the use of the new the harbour from within the
Sydney Conservatorium of Music. Royal Botanic Garden, but the Resting on the carved stone seat of
The Conservatorium’s grandiose, somewhat sombre, Mrs Macquaries Chair
facilities include a café which turreted Gothic Revival edifice
holds lunchtime con certs seems curiously out of place 4 Mrs Macquaries
during the school term and in its beautiful park setting. Chair
an upper level with har bour It was built of local sand stone Mrs Macquaries Rd. Map 2 E2.
views. “The Con” continues to and cedar between 1837 @ Sydney Explorer, 441. 7
be a training ground for future and 1845. A fine collection of
musicians as well as being 19th- and early 20th-century The scenic Mrs Macquaries
a great place to visit. furnishings is housed within. Road winds alongside much
of what is now the city’s
Royal Botanic Garden, from
Farm Cove to Woolloomooloo
Bay and back again. The road
was built in 1816 at the
instigation of Elizabeth
Macquarie, wife of the
Governor. In the same year,
a stone bench, inscribed with
details of the new road, was
carved into the rock at the point
where Mrs Macquarie would
stop to admire the view on
her daily constitutional.
Although today the outlook
from this famous landmark
is much changed, it is just as
arresting, taking in the broad
sweep of the harbour and
The Conservatorium of Music, at the edge of the Royal Botanic Garden fore shore with all its landmarks.




108-109_EW_Sydney.indd 108 29/05/17 12:16 pm

BO T ANIC GARDEN AND THE DOM AIN  109























Historic Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf redevelopment, including stylish apartments, restaurants and a hotel
5 Fort Denison restaurant and museum. It can 7 Art Gallery of
be reached by Captain Cook New South Wales
Sydney Harbour. Map 2 E1. Tel 9361 Cruises ferries from Wharf 2,
5208. g from Circular Quay and See pp110–13.
Darling Harbour. Closed 25 Dec. Circular Quay or Darling Harbour.
& - 8 phone to book.
∑ fortdenison.com.au 8 The Domain
∑ nationalparks.nsw.gov.au 6 Woolloomooloo
∑ captaincook.com.au Finger Wharf Art Gallery Rd. Map 1 C4. @ Sydney
Explorer, Elizabeth St routes, 441. 7
First named Rock Island, this Cowper Wharf Roadway,
prominent, rocky outcrop in Woolloo moo loo. Map 2 E4. Free open­air concerts featuring
Sydney Harbour was very quickly @ Sydney Explorer, 311. some of the country’s top
dubbed “Pinchgut”. This was artists at The Domain’s shell­
probably because of the meagre The largest of several finger like covered amphitheatre is
rations given to convicts who wharves that jut out into the some thing of a summer
were confined harbour, this tradition in Sydney. More than
there as punish­ timber wharf, 100,000 people are drawn to
ment. It had a completed in the events here, from Carols in
grim history of 1914, was an The Domain on the Saturday
incarceration in embarkation before Christmas to Symphony
the early years of point for soldiers and Opera under the stars in
the colony. bound for both January (see p51). By day, the
In 1796, con­ Fort Denison in 1907 world wars. vast green space is a magnet
victed murderer Following World for active city workers, who can
Francis Morgan was hanged on War II, it was a landing place for be found jogging or playing
the island in chains. His body many of the thousands of touch football during their
was left to rot on the gallows for immigrants who came to make lunch breaks.
three years as a grisly warning a new life in Australia. This extensive public space
to the other convicts. The wharf was the subject of has long been a rallying point
Between 1855 and 1857, the public contro versy in the late for crowds of Sydneysiders
Martello tower (the only one 1980s and early 1990s, when whenever emotive issues of
in Australia), gun battery and demolition plans were thwart ed public importance have arisen,
bar racks were built as part of by conservation groups. Since such as the attempt in 1916 to
Sydney’s defences and the site then, this National Trust­listed introduce military conscription
was renamed after the gover nor maritime site has been or the dismissal of the elected
of the time. The gun, still fired redeveloped to include prime federal government by the
at 1pm each day, was an residential apartments, the Ovolo then governor­general in 1975.
important aid for navigation, Woolloomooloo luxury hotel (see Since the 1890s, The Domain
allowing mariners to set their p179), and fashionable bars and has been the setting for speakers
ships’ chronometers. restaurants whose patios offer to get on their soapbox and
Today, Fort Denison is a fantastic views of Sydney make their point on Sunday
popular tourist spot with a Harbour and the city skyline. afternoons at “Speakers’ Corner”.




108-109_EW_Sydney.indd 109 29/05/17 12:16 pm

110  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

7 Art Gallery of New South Wales

Established in 1871, the art gallery has occupied its present imposing
building since 1897. Designed by the Colonial Architect WL Vernon,
the gallery doubled in size following 1988 building extensions.
Two equestrian bronzes by Gilbert Bayes (1872–1953) – The Offerings
of Peace and The Offerings of War – greet the visitor on entry. The
gallery itself houses some of the finest works of art in Australia,
with permanent collections of Australian, Aboriginal, European,
Asian and contemporary art. The Yiribana Gallery is one of the
largest in the world to exclusively exhibit Aboriginal and Torres Strait Lower Level 3
Islander art and culture. Free guided tours take place daily, covering
Aboriginal art, highlights of the collection or major exhibitions.


Mars and the Vestal Virgin (1638)
This oil on canvas by Parisian painter
Jacques Blanchard (1600–38) depicts
Mars’s encounter with a Vestal Virgin,
who subsequently gave birth to
Romulus and Remus, founders of Rome.










Ground Level














Sofala (1947) Russell Drysdale’s visions of
Australia show “ghost” towns laid waste by
devastating natural forces such as drought. Upper Level

Gallery Guide
There are five levels. The Upper Level,
Ground Level and Lower Level 1 host
tempo rary exhibitions. The Ground
Level also showcases European
and Australian works. The Contem­
porary Galleries on Lower Level 2
have the most compre hensive
collection of contemporary art
in the country. On Lower Level 3
is the Yiribana Aboriginal Gallery.




110-111_EW_Sydney.indd 110 29/05/17 12:16 pm

AR T GALLER Y OF NE W SOUTH W ALES  111

. Pukumani Grave
Posts (1958) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Carved by Tiwi
artists of Melville Island Practical Information
(north of Australia), Art Gallery Road, The Domain.
these magnificent Map 2 D5. Tel 9225 1744.
funerary posts Open 10am–5pm daily
were specially (to 10pm Wed). Closed Good Fri,
commissioned for 25 Dec. 7 8 0 - =
∑ artgallery.nsw.gov.au
the art gallery.
Transport
@ Sydney Explorer, 441.
g Circular Quay.  St James,
Martin Place.

Padmapani
This extremely large, softly
glowing, resplendent
Lower Level 2
Nepalese work is made of
copper and is remarkable for
being cast in one piece.



Lower Level 1















Natives on the Ouse River,
Van Diemen’s Land (1838)
English-Australian artist John Glover was
dubbed the father of Australian landscape
painting for his bright depictions of the
Van Dieman’s Land bush (now Tasmania).
Key to Floorplan
Australian Art
European Art
Asian Art
Modern Gallery (20th-Century
European Art)
Contemporary Art
Domain Theatre
Yiribana Aboriginal Gallery
Temporary exhibition space
. The Golden Fleece (1894) Photography Gallery
The sandstone Also known as Shearing at Newstead, this Study Room/Prints and
entrance was work by Tom Roberts marks the coming Drawings
added in 1909. of age of Australian Impressionist art. Non-exhibition Space




110-111_EW_Sydney.indd 111 29/05/17 12:16 pm

112  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the
Art Gallery’s Collection

Although local works had been collected since 1875, the
gallery did not seriously begin seeking Australian and
non-British art until the 1920s, and not until the 1940s
did it begin acquiring Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander
paintings. These contrasting collections are now its great
strength. Major temporary exhibitions are also regularly
staged, with the annual Archibald, Wynne and Sulman
prizes being most controversial and highly entertaining.


myths of early Australian history, Chaucer at the Court of Edward III (1847–51),
Australian Art and range from Boy in Township by Ford Madox Brown
Among the most important (1943) to Burke (c.1962). There
Colonial works is John Glover’s are fine holdings by Thea Edward III (1847–51) is the
Natives on the Ouse River, Proctor, William Dobell and most commanding work in
Van Diemen’s Land (1838), Russell Drysdale, as well as the Pre-Raphaelite collection.
an idealised image of Aboriginal important works of Arthur Boyd, The Impressionists and Post-
people in a landscape unsullied Fred Williams, Robert Klippel, Impressionists are represented by
by European contact. Ian Fairweather and Brett late 1880s Pissarro and Monet,
The old wing holds paintings Whiteley (see p132). Kandinsky, Braque and many
from the Heidelberg School of other well-known European
Australian Impressionism. Charles artists. Mother and Daughter
Conder’s Departure of the Orient – European Art (1946) by Max Beckmann and
Circular Quay (1888) and Tom The scope of the scattered Three Bathers (1913) by Ernst
Robert’s The Golden Fleece – European collection ranges Ludwig Kirchner are examples
Shearing at Newstead (1894) from Medieval to mod ern art. of German Expressionism. The
hang along side fine works British art from the late 19th to gallery’s first Picasso, Nude in a
by Frederick McCubbin and the early 20th centuries forms Rocking Chair (1956), was pur-
Arthur Streeton. Rupert Bunny’s an outstanding component. chased in 1981. Among the dis-
sensuous Summer Time (c.1907) Among the Old Masters are tinguished sculptures on show
and A Summer Morning (c.1908), some significant Italian works that is Henry Moore’s Reclining Figure:
and George Lambert’s heroic reflect Caravaggio’s influence. Angles (1980), which is displayed
Across the Black Soil Plains (1899), There are also several notable by the side of the entrance.
impress with their huge size works from the Renaissance in
and complex compositions. Sienese and Florentine styles. Photography
There is also a significant Hogarth, Turner and Joshua
collection of Australian Modernist Reynolds are represented, as Australian photography,
works, including the iconic are Neo-Classical works. The represented in all its various
Implement Blue (1927) by Visit of the Queen of Sheba to forms, is a major part of the
Margaret Preston and The Curve King Solomon (1884–90) by collection. There are over 5,000
of the Bridge (1928–9) by Grace Edward Poynter has been on prints, from 19th-century works
Cossington Smith. The Gallery’s display since 1892. Ford Madox by the likes of Charles Kerry and
paintings by Sidney Nolan exploit Brown’s Chaucer at the Court of Charles Bayliss to fine examples
of 20th-century Pictorialism by
Harold Cazneaux, Norman C Deck
and many others. The collection
further traces the development
of Modernist photography
through the works of Olive
Cotton, Max Dupain and their
peers, while also showcasing
the innovative approaches to
the medium of contemporary
practitioners like Tracey Moffatt,
Anne Ferran, Rosemary Laing
and Pat Brassington. Major
international figures such as
Eadweard Muybridge, Robert
Brett Whiteley’s vivid The balcony 2 from 1975 Mapplethorpe, Dorothea Lange,




112-113_EW_Sydney.indd 112 29/05/17 12:16 pm

AR T GALLER Y OF NE W SOUTH W ALES  113


Man Ray, Cindy Sherman
and Yasumasa Morimura are
also represented.

Asian Art
The Gallery houses a remarkable
collection of both historical and
contemporary Asian art, particu-
larly works of East Asia from the
pre-Shang dynasty (c.1600–
1027 BC) to the 20th century. It
is recognized for its fine Chinese
ceramics and Japanese paintings.
There are also excellent holdings
of South and Southeast Asian
art, especially sculptures and Spearing the Kangaroo (c.1880s–90s) by renowned Aboriginal artist Tommy McRae
paintings. Dynamic exhibitions,
held across two dedicated Asian collection, while offering fresh
galleries, change regularly. The Contemporary Art perspectives on both classic
upper gallery is housed within The contemporary galleries pieces and new acquisitions.
a glass pavilion, with the design encompass works in all media
inspired by floating lanterns. by artists from Australia and
across the globe, including Yiribana Gallery
Fiona Hall, Bill Henson, Tracey Yiribana means “this way” in the
Prints and Drawings
Moffatt, Simryn Gill, Anish language of the Eora people, an
Drawings and prints are on Kapoor, Cy Twombly, Louise acknowledgment of the gallery’s
display throughout the Gallery Bourgeois and Ai Weiwei. location on Cadigal Land. Home
in the various collections, as Following the addition of the of the Aboriginal and Torres
well as in the Study Room. They John Kaldor Family Collection, Strait Islander collection, the
rep resent the European tradition which includes works by Yiribana Gallery showcases
from the Renaissance to the Sol LeWitt, Nam June Paik Australia’s enduring Indigenous
19th and 20th centuries, with and Robert Rauschenberg, cultural heritage, from Tommy
works by Rembrandt, Constable, the Gallery now holds McRae’s late 19th-century draw-
William Blake and Edvard Munch. Australia’s most comprehensive ings to works by contemporary
A strong bias towards Sydney representation of art from artists. Traditional bark paintings
artists has result ed in a fine the 1960s to the present hang alongside innovative
gathering of works by Thea day. A series of rotating works from both desert and
Proctor, Norman and Lionel exhibitions reflect the urban areas. The application
Lindsay, and Lloyd Rees. range and richness of this by contemporary artists of
traditional ceremonial body
and sand painting styles to
new media forms, and the
endurance of “Aboriginality”,
are repeatedly demonstrated.
Topographical, geo graphical
and cultural mapping of the
land is displayed in a number
of intricate land scapes. The
qualities and forms of the
natural world, and the actions
and tracks of Ancestral Beings,
are coded within the images.
Tutini (Pukumani grave posts)
(1958) is a solemn ceremonial
work dealing with death, while
Emily Kame Kngwarreye honours
the land from which she comes:
the canvases of her intricate dot
paintings, created using new
tools and technology, appear
to move and shimmer, telling
stories of the animals and food
Margaret Preston’s Wheelflower (c.1929) to be found there.




112-113_EW_Sydney.indd 113 29/05/17 12:16 pm

114  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


section, a modern structure
facing Macquarie Street, houses
the State Reference Library and
a gourmet café.
Outside the library, also fac ing
Macquarie Street, is a statue
of explorer Matthew Flinders.
Behind him on the windowsill
is a statue of his co­voyager
and faithful cat, Trim.

0 Parliament House
Macquarie St. Map 1 C4. Tel 9230
2111. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St
routes.  Martin Place. 8 book in
advance 9230 3444. Open 9am–5pm
Mosaic replica of the Tasman Map in the State Library of NSW Mon–Fri. Closed most public hols. 7
∑ parliament.nsw.gov.au
9 State Library of ceiling frame the impressive
NSW vest ibule. On the vestibule floor The central section of this
is a mosaic replica of an old building, which houses the
Macquarie St. Map 1 C4. Tel 9273 map illustrating the two voyages State Parliament, is part of the
1414. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St made to Australia by Dutch original Sydney Hospital built
routes. Open 9am–8pm Mon–Thu, navigator Abel Tasman in in 1811–16. It has been a
9am–5pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. the 1640s. The original seat of government
Closed pub hols; Mitchell Library Tasman Map is held in since 1829, when the
closed Sun. - 7 8 =
∑ sl.nsw.gov.au the Mitchell Library newly appointed
as part of its large Legislative Council first
The State Library is housed col lection of historic held meetings here. The
in two separate buildings Australian paintings, building was extended
connected by a passageway books, documents twice during the 19th
and a glass bridge. The older and pictorial records. Malby’s century and again in
building, the Mitchell Library The Mitchell wing’s celestial globe, the 1970s and 1980s.
wing (1910), is a majestic sand­ vast reading room, with Parliament House The current building
stone edifice facing the Royal its huge skylight and contains the chambers
Botanic Garden. Huge stone oak panelling, is just beyond for both houses of state
columns supporting a vaulted the main vestibule. The newest parliament and parliamentary

Macquarie Street
@ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St routes.  Circular Quay, Martin Pl, St James.
Named after Governor Lachlan Macquarie, the street was designed
as a ceremonial thoroughfare from the harbour to Hyde Park.
It houses some of Australia’s most important architectural and
historical treasures, the consulting rooms of the city’s top medical
specialists and the home of the state government.
The new wing of the The Legislative Assembly, the
library was built in 1988 and lower house of state parliament,
connected to the old section is furnished in the traditional green
by a glass walkway. of the British House of Commons.
Parliament House was
The Mitchell Library once the convict­built Rum
wing’s portico (1906) Hospital’s northern wing.
has Ionic columns.






State Library of NSW (1906–41) Parliament House (1811–16)




114-115_EW_Sydney.indd 114 29/05/17 12:16 pm

BO T ANIC GARDEN AND THE DOM AIN  115


offices. Parliamentary original convict-built Florence Nightingale approved
memo rabilia is on view Sydney Hospital – the design of the 1867 nurses’
in the Jubilee Room, as known as the Rum wing. In the inner courtyard,
are displays showing Hospital because the there is a brightly coloured Art
Parliament House’s builders were paid by Deco fountain (1907).
development and the being allowed to At the front of the hospital sits
legislative history of import rum for resale. Il Porcellino, a brass boar. It is a
New South Wales. Both the north and copy of a 17th-century fountain
The corrugated-iron south wings of the in Florence’s Mercato Nuovo.
building, with a cast- Rum Hospital survive Donated in 1968 by an Italian
iron façade tacked on as Parliament House woman whose relatives had
at the southern end, and the Sydney Mint. worked at the hospital, the
was a pre-fabricated Stained glass at The central wing, statue is an enduring sym bol
kit from England. It was Sydney Hospital which was in danger of the close friendship
originally intend ed as a of collapsing, was between Italy and Australia.
chapel for the gold fields, but demolished in 1879 and the Like his Florentine counter-
was diverted from this purpose new hospital, which still functions part, Il Porcellino is supposed
and sent to Sydney. In 1856, today, was completed in 1894. to bring good luck to all those
this disman tled kit became The Classical Revival building who rub his snout. All coins
the chamber for the new boasts a Baroque staircase and tossed in the shallow pool at
Legislative Council. Its packing elegant floral stained-glass his feet for luck and fortune
cases were used to line this windows in its entrance hall. are collected for the hospital.
chamber; the rough timber is
still on view inside.

q Sydney Hospital
Macquarie St. Map 1 C4. Tel 9382
7111. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St
routes.  Martin Place. Open daily.
& for tours. 7 8 must be pre-
booked by phone. ∑ seslhd.health.
nsw.gov.au
This imposing collection of
Victorian sandstone build ings
stands on the site of what was
once the central section of the II Porcellino, the brass boar in front of Sydney Hospital

The lamps hanging over the The Little Shop,
gateways of Parliament House a tiny corner store,
are reproductions of the currently resides in
19th-century gas lamps one of two domed
that used to stand here. former gatehouses.
The entrance stairs
of Pyrmont sandstone
have set the tone for all
renovations. The stone,
quarried in Colonial
times, must be
matched exactly.
Corrugated iron Arched sandstone Arcaded stone verandas
and cast-iron bridges with ornate balustrading
façade








Sydney Hospital (1868–94)




114-115_EW_Sydney.indd 115 29/05/17 12:16 pm

116  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

w The Mint closed in 1927 as it was no
longer competitive with the
10 Macquarie St. Map 1 C5. Tel 8239
2288. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St Melbourne and Perth Mints.
routes.  St James, Martin Place. The Georgian building went
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. Closed into its own decline after it was
Good Fri, 25 Dec. - 7 ground floor converted into government
only. ∑ sydneylivingmuseums. offices. In the 1950s, the front
com.au/the-mint courtyard was even used as a
car park. In 1982, it opened as
The gold rushes of the mid- a branch of the Powerhouse
19th century transformed Museum (see pp102–3), but
Colonial Australia. The Sydney the collection moved to the
Mint opened in the 1816 Rum main museum in Harris Street.
Hospital’s south wing in 1854 This building is now the head
to turn recently discovered office of the Historic Houses Trust
gold into bullion and currency. of NSW and you can wander
It was the first branch of the through the front of the building,
Royal Mint to be established or view the small historical
outside London. The Mint was display near the entrance. Replica convict hammocks on the third
floor of Hyde Park Barracks
Francis Greenway, e Hyde Park
Convict Architect Barracks Museum
Until the 1990s, Australian A$10 notes
bore the portrait of the early Colonial Queens Square, Macquarie St.
architect Francis Greenway, the only Map 1 C5. Tel 8239 2311.
currency in the world to pay tribute to a @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St
convicted forger. Greenway was transported routes.  St James, Martin Place.
to Sydney in 1814 to serve 14 years for his Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed Good
crime. Under the patronage of Governor Fri, 25 Dec. & - 7 level one only.
Macquarie, who appointed him Civil Architect 8 on request. ∑ sydneyliving
in 1816, Greenway designed more than museums.com.au/hyde-park-
40 buildings, of which only 11 remain barracks-museum
today. He received a full pardon in
1819, but soon fell out of favour as he Described by Governor Macquarie
persisted in charging large fees while as “spacious” and “well aired”,
still on a government salary. Greenway the beautifully pro por tioned
Francis Greenway (1777–1837) died in poverty in 1837. barracks are the work of Francis
Greenway and are con sid ered his

Macquarie Street The Mint, like its twin,
Fine examples of Francis Greenway’s Georgian style Parliament House, has an
are within an easy walk of one another at the Hyde unusual double-colonnaded,
Park end of Macquarie Street. The brick and sandstone two-storeyed veranda.
of Hyde Park Barracks, St James Church and the Old
Supreme Court Building form a harmonious group on
the site the governor envisaged as the city’s civic centre.


The roof of The Mint has
now been com pletely
restored to replicate the The stone wall, of Hyde
original wooden shingles Park Barracks’ north west
in casuarina (she-oak). pavilion still bears the marks
of the convicts’ chisels.








The Mint (1816)




116-117_EW_Sydney.indd 116 29/05/17 12:19 pm

BO T ANIC GARDEN AND THE DOM AIN  117


masterpiece. They were
completed in 1819 by convict
labour and designed to house 600
convicts who had previously been
forced to find their own lodgings
after their day’s work. The building
later housed Irish orphans and
then single female immig rants,
before becoming courts and
legal offices. Refurbished in 1990,
it re opened as a museum with
exhi bits about the site and
its occupants over the years.
The displays include a room
reconstructed as convict quar-
ters of the 1820s, as well as
pictures, models and artifacts Detail from the Children’s Chapel mural in the St James’ Church crypt
relating to this period of
Australian history. Many of r St James’ Church 1824 by Samuel Marsden, the
the objects now on display, 173 King St. Map 1 B5. Tel 8227 1300. infamous “flogging parson”, it is
recovered during archaeological @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St Sydney’s oldest church. Many
digs at the site, had previously routes.  St James, Martin Place. additions have been carried
been dragged away by rats Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm out, including designs by John
to their nests; the scavenging Sat, 7:30am– 4pm Sun. Free concerts: Verge in which the pulpit faced
rodents are acknowledged as Mar–Dec: Wed 1:15pm. ∑ sjks.org.au towards high-rent pews, while
valuable agents of preservation. convicts and the military sat
The Greenway Gallery on This fine Georgian building, behind the preacher where
the first floor holds temporary constructed with convict-made the service would have been
exhibitions on history, ideas bricks, was designed as a court- inaudible. A Children’s Chapel
and culture. house in 1819. The architect, was added in 1930.
Hyde Park Barracks is one of Francis Greenway, was forced Prominent members of early
11 Australian convict to convert it into a church in 19th-century society, many of
sites included 1820, when plans to build a whom died violently, are com-
on the UNESCO grand cathedral on George memorated in marble tablets.
World Heritage Street were abandoned. These tell the full and bloody
List for their Greenway, unhappy about the stories of luckless explorers and
universal change, designed a simple yet shipwreck victims, among other
significance. elegant church. Consecrated in untimely demises.

The stained-glass
windows in the
Chapel of the Holy
This clock, dating from 1817 and Spirit of St James’
one of Sydney’s oldest, is on the Church are mostly
Hyde Park Barracks façade.
20th century.
The Land Titles Office,
a WL Vernon building
from 1908, has a
Classical form with
Georgian some fine Tudor
sandstone Gothic detailing.
façade
Copper spire
atop a square
brick tower
Statue of Prince
Albert





Hyde Park Barracks (1817–19) Land Titles Office (1908–13) St James’ (1820)




116-117_EW_Sydney.indd 117 29/05/17 12:19 pm

CO WPE R WHARF ROADWAY POTTS
POINT

CHALLIS AVE
S T R E E T STREET BEARE
M A C L E AY S T R E E T
NICHOLSON ST
PARK
SIR JOHN YOUNG CRES CATHEDRAL ST WOOLLOOMOOLOO
HUGHES ST
GREENKNOWE AVE
C R O W N S T R E E T
RILEY STREET W I L L I A M S T R E E T S T R E E T Kings Cross B R O U G H A M VICTORIA DARLINGHURST KINGS WARD AVE NUE
STREET
RD
S T R E E T
CROSS
S T R E E T PALMER KINGS CROSS ROAD
D A R L I N G H U R S T R O A D
100m B O U R K E F O R B E S CRAIGEND STREET
WHITLAM
WOMERAH AVENUE
Waterfront view of the Elizabeth Bay skyline SQUARE L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T DARLINGHURST
Sights at a Glance C R O W N BURTON STREET S T R E E T
Historic Streets and Buildings Parks and Gardens EASTE RN DISTRIBUTOR BARCOM AVENUE
2 Victoria Street 4 Beare Park O X F O R D S T R E E T GREEN
3 Elizabeth Bay House Monuments PARK V I C T O R I A
6 Old Gaol, Darlinghurst 1 El Alamein Fountain BARCOM AVE
7 Darlinghurst Court House TAYLOR
SQUARE
Museums and Galleries See also Street Finder,
5 Sydney Jewish Museum maps 2, 3 & 5



118-119_EW_Sydney.indd 118 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  119
KINGS CROSS AND

DARLINGHURST


On the eastern side of the city, Kings Cross nightspots and convert them into apartments.
(“The Cross”) and Darlinghurst (“Darlo”) are a A thriving daytime economy has emerged,
couple of Sydney celebrities. With a reputation with hospitality and lifestyle businesses
as a gangland hotbed of criminal ativity and serving a growing local community. By
raucous red-light district, Kings Cross is evening, restaurants and wine bars have
undergoing rapid transformation into a added a touch of sophistication to the area’s
gentrified residential enclave. While the late- traditional bohemian roots. Still scruffy around
night seedy bar scene remains, albeit on a the edges, Darlinghurst is also making a mark
smaller scale, the impact of high rents and as a go-to dining destination, while retaining
the introduction in 2014 of controversial its reputation as a social hub for the gay and
“lock out laws” forcing earlier closing times, lesbian community, including the flamboyant
has seen developers snap up former annual Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade.


Restaurants pp192–4 10 Flour and Stone 17 Ms G’s
1 A Tavola 11 Fratelli Paradiso 18 Phamish
2 Bar Brosé 12 Fu Manchu 19 Red Lantern on Riley
3 Bar Coluzzi 13 Govinda’s 20 Riley Street Garage
4 Beppi’s 14 Harry’s Café de Wheels 21 Tilbury Hotel
5 Bill and Toni’s 15 Lucio Pizzeria 22 Trunk Road
6 Bills 16 Macleay Street Bistrot 23 Yellow
7 Billy Kwong
8 Casoni
9 The Fish Shop

CO WPE R WHARF ROADWAY POTTS
POINT

CHALLIS AVE
S T R E E T STREET BEARE
M A C L E AY S T R E E T
NICHOLSON ST
PARK
SIR JOHN YOUNG CRES CATHEDRAL ST WOOLLOOMOOLOO
HUGHES ST
GREENKNOWE AVE
C R O W N S T R E E T
RILEY STREET W I L L I A M S T R E E T S T R E E T Kings Cross B R O U G H A M VICTORIA DARLINGHURST KINGS WARD AVE NUE
RD
STREET
S T R E E T
CROSS
S T R E E T PALMER KINGS CROSS ROAD
D A R L I N G H U R S T R O A D
100m B O U R K E F O R B E S CRAIGEND STREET
WHITLAM
WOMERAH AVENUE
SQUARE L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T DARLINGHURST
EASTE RN DISTRIBUTOR GREEN 0 metres 100
C R O W N BURTON STREET S T R E E T BARCOM AVENUE
V I C T O R I A
PARK
O X F O R D S T R E E T
TAYLOR BARCOM AVE 0 yards 100
SQUARE

For keys to symbols see back flap


118-119_EW_Sydney.indd 119 29/05/17 12:16 pm

120  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Potts Point

The substantial Victorian houses filling the streets of this
old suburb are excellent examples of the 19th-century
concern with architectural harmony. New building pro jects
were designed to enhance rather than contradict the
surrounding buildings and general streetscape. Monumental
structures and fine details of moulded stuccoed parapets,
cornices and friezes, even the spandrels in herringbone
pattern, are all integral parts of a grand suburban plan.
(This plan included an 1831 order that all houses cost at The McElhone Stairs were
least £1,000.) The gentrification of this part of the suburb, pre ceded by a wooden ladder
that linked Woolloomooloo Hill,
with its pretty, tree-lined streets and air of sophistication, as Kings Cross was known,
earned it the enduring moniker, “The Paris End of Potts Point”. to the estate far below.

Horderns Stairs
These villas, from
the Georgian and
Victorian eras, can
be broadly labelled V I C T O R I A S T R E E T
as Classical Revival
and are fronted by
leafy gardens.



Kings
Cross Station T U S C U L U M S T R E E T M A N N I N G S T R E E T
2. Victoria Street
From 1972 to 1974, residents of this M A C L E A Y S T R E E T
historic street fought a sometimes
violent battle against developers
wanting to build high-rise towers, H U G H E S S T R E E T
motels and blocks of flats. C R I C K S T R E E T






M A C L E A Y S T R E E T G R E E N K N O W E A V E N U E









Werrington, a mostly
serious and streamlined
building, also has
flamboyant Art Deco E L I Z A B E T H B A Y R O A D
detailing, which is now Tusculum Villa was just one of a
hidden under brown paint. number of 1830s houses sub ject
to “villa conditions”. All had to face
Government House, be of a high
monetary value and be built
within three years.




120-121_EW_Sydney.indd 120 29/05/17 12:19 pm

KINGS CROSS AND D ARLINGHURST  121


Challis Avenue is a fine BOTANIC
and shady comple ment GARDEN AND
THE DOMAIN
to nearby Victoria Street.
This Romanesque group
of terrace houses has
an unusual façade, KINGS CROSS
AND
with arches fronting DARLINGHURST
deep verandas and
a grand ground-floor PADDINGTON
colonnade.
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 2
Rockwall, a symmetrical and
compact Regency villa, was
built to the designs of the Del Rio is a finely
architect John Verge detailed high-rise
(see p122) in 1830–37.
apartment block.
It clearly exhibits
Landmark the Spanish Mission
Hotel in fluence that filtered
through from
California in the first
quarter of the
20th century.
C H A L L I S A V E N U E




M A C L E A Y S T R E E T


M A N N I N G S T R E E T
P L A C E B I L LYA R D A V E N U E
W
O
L 3. Elizabeth Bay House
S A contemporary exclaimed over
N U E
O N the beauty of the 1830s garden:
E “Trees from Rio, the West Indies,
L O W A V The Arthur from the Cape are splendid.”
the East Indies, China…the bulbs
C R I C K S T R E E T
McElhone
S Reserve
N
O

G R E E N K N O W E A V E N U E
Art Deco
Birtley Towers
E L I Z A B E T H B A Y R O A D
0 metres 50
0 yards 50 Elizabeth Bay was part of the original land grant to
Key Alexander Macleay (see p122). He created a botanist’s
paradise with ornamental ponds, quaint grottoes and
Suggested route prome nades winding all the way down to the harbour.




120-121_EW_Sydney.indd 121 29/05/17 12:19 pm

122  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


The present portico dates from
1893. The interior is furnished to
reflect Macleay’s occupancy from
1839 to 1845, based on inven-
tories drawn up in 1845 for the
transfer of the house to Macleay’s
son, William Sharp. He took the
house in return for payment of
his father’s debts, leading to a rift
never to be resolved.
Macleay’s original 22-hectare
(54-acre) land grant was sub-
divided for flats and villas from
the 1880s to 1927. In the 1940s,
El Alamein Fountain, commemorating the World War II battle the house itself was divided into
15 flats. In 1942, the artist Donald
1 El Alamein Juanita Nielsen, publisher of Friend, while standing on the
Fountain a local newspaper, vigorously balcony of his flat – the former
took up the conservation battle. morning room – saw the ferry
Fitzroy Gardens, Macleay St, Potts On 4 July 1975, she disappeared Kuttabul hit by a torpedo from
Point. Map 2 E5. @ 311. without trace. An inquest into a Japanese midget submarine.
This dandelion-shaped fountain her disappearance returned The house was restored and
in the heart of the Kings Cross an open verdict, and the case opened as a museum in 1977.
district has a reputation for that captivated Sydney and
working so spasmodically dominated the front pages
that passers-by often murmur of newspapers remains
facetiously, “He loves me, he unsolved to this day.
loves me not.” Built in 1961, it As a result of the actions
commemorates the Australian of the union and residents,
army’s role in the siege of most of Victoria Street’s
Tobruk, Libya, and the battle superb 19th-century
of El Alamein in Egypt during buildings still stand.
World War II. At night, when
it is brilliantly lit, the fountain 3 Elizabeth Bay
looks surprisingly ethereal.
House
2 Victoria Street 7 Onslow Ave, Elizabeth Bay.
Map 2 F5. Tel 9356 3022. @ Sydney
Potts Point. Map 2 E5. @ 311, Explorer, 311. Open 10am–4pm Fri–
324, 325. Sun. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. &
∑ sydneylivingmuseums.com.au/ The sweeping staircase under the oval
At the Potts Point end, this elizabeth-bay-house dome, Elizabeth Bay House
street of 19th-century terrace
houses, interspersed with a few Elizabeth Bay House (see pp26–7)
incongruous-looking high-rise has the finest Colonial interior 4 Beare Park
blocks, is, by inner-city on display in Australia. It is a Ithaca Rd, Elizabeth Bay. Map 2 F5.
standards, almost a potent expression of how @ 311.
boulevard. This gracious the 1840s depression cut
street was once at short the 1830s prosper ous Originally a part of the Macleay
the centre of a bitter optimism. Designed in Estate, Beare Park is now
conservation struggle, the fashionable Greek encircled by a jumble of
one which almost Revival style by apartment blocks. A refuge
certainly cost a John Verge, it was from hectic Kings Cross, it is
prominent heritage built for Colonial one of only a handful of parks
campaigner’s life. Secretary Alexander serving a densely populated
In the early 1970s, Macleay, in 1835–9. The area. In the shape of a natural
many residents, buoyed domed oval saloon with amphitheatre, the park puts
by the “green bans” Juanita its cantilevered staircase Elizabeth Bay on glorious view.
(see p33) put in place by Nielsen is recognized as Verge’s The family home of J C
the Builders’ Labourers’ masterpiece. The exterior Williamson, a famous theatrical
Federation of New South is less satisfactory, as the entrepreneur who came to
Wales, fought to prevent intended colonnade and por tico Australia from America in the
demolition of old buildings for were not finished owing to a 1870s, formerly stood at the
high-rise development. Heiress crisis in Macleay’s finan cial affairs. eastern extremity of the park.




122-123_EW_Sydney.indd 122 29/05/17 12:19 pm

KINGS CROSS AND D ARLINGHURST  123


within Australia. Ascending the stone quarried on the site by
stairs to mezzanine levels 1–6, convicts, which was then
the visitor passes through chiselled by them into blocks.
chronological and thematic No fewer than 67 people were
exhibitions which unravel the executed here between 1841
history of the Holocaust. and 1908. Perhaps the most
From Hitler’s rise to power no tor ious hangman was
and Kristallnacht, through the Alexander “The Strangler” Green,
evacuation of the ghettos and after whom Green Park, outside
the Final Solution, to the ulti mate the jail, is thought to have been
liberation of the infamous death named. Green lived near the park
camps and Nuremberg Trials, the until public hostility forced him to
harrowing events are graphically live in relative safety inside the jail.
documented. This horrific period Some of Australia’s most
is recalled using photographs noted artists, including Frank
and relics, some exhumed from Hodgkinson, Jon Molvig and
Star of David in the lobby of the Sydney mass graves, as well as audiovisual William Dobell, trained or
Jewish Museum exhibits and oral testimonies. taught at the art school which
Holocaust survivors act as was established here in 1921.
5 Sydney Jewish volunteer guides. Their presence,
Museum bearing witness to the recorded
events, lends considerable
148 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst. power and mov ing authenticity
Map 5 B2. Tel 9360 7999. @ Sydney to the exhibits.
Explorer, Bondi & Bay Explorer, 311,
389. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Thu &
Sun, 10am–2:30pm Fri. Closed Sat, 6 Old Gaol,
Jewish hols. & 7 8 = Darlinghurst
∑ sydneyjewishmuseum.com.au
Cnr Burton & Forbes Sts, Darlinghurst.
Sixteen Jewish convicts were Map 5 A2. Tel 9339 8744. @ 333, 378,
on the First Fleet and many 380, 389. Open 10:30am–5pm Mon–
more were to be transported Fri. Closed public hols. 7 8 11am,
before the end of the convict 1pm, 2pm, 3pm.
era. As with other convicts,
most would endure and some Originally known as the The former Governor’s house, Old Gaol,
would thrive, seizing all the Woolloomooloo Stockade Darlinghurst
opportunities the colony had and later as Darlinghurst Gaol,
to offer for those wishing to this site has been home to the 7 Darlinghurst
make something of themselves. National Art School since 1922.
The Sydney Jewish Museum It was constructed over a Court House
relates stories of Australian 20-year period from 1822. Taylor Square, Darling hurst. Map 5 A2.
Jewry within the context of Surrounded by walls almost Tel 1300 679 272. @ 333, 378, 380.
the Holocaust. The ground floor 7 m (23 ft) high, the cell blocks Open Feb–mid-Dec: 10am–4pm
display explores present-day radiate from a central round- Mon–Fri & Sun. Closed mid-Dec–Jan,
Jewish traditions and culture house. The former jail is built of public hols. 7 8
Abutting the grim old jail, to
which it is connected by under-
ground passages, and facing
Taylor Square, this unlikely gem
of Greek Revival architecture
was begun in 1835 by Mortimer
Lewis, the Colonial Architect of
New South Wales from 1835 to
1843. He was only responsible
for the central block of the
main building with its splendid
six-columned Doric portico.
The balancing side wings
were added in the 1880s.
The court house is still used
by the state’s Supreme Court
mainly for criminal cases, and
Beare Park, a quiet inner-city park with harbour views these are open to the public.




122-123_EW_Sydney.indd 123 29/05/17 12:19 pm

A row of Victorian terrace houses in the suburb of Paddington
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Parks and Gardens
1 Paddington Street 9 Centennial Park
2 The Entertainment Quarter Markets
4 Five Ways 3 Paddington Markets
5 Juniper Hall
6 Paddington Town Hall 0 metres 500
7 Paddington Village
8 Victoria Barracks 0 yards 500




124-125_EW_Sydney.indd 124 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  125

PADDINGTON

The genteel area of Paddington, home to an “Paddo” is a shopping haven for those who
array of fashionable boutiques, prestigious favour small independent stores over
galleries, fine cafés, restaurants and historic mass-market shopping malls. Oxford Street
pubs, is a leafy residential suburb of finely is home to emerging and established
restored early Victorian houses. Most of its fashion designers, Queen Street is the
famed terrace homes, with their distinctive place to head for fine antiques, while
wrought-iron “lace” balconies, were built in Sydney’s longest-running community
the late 19th century and evolved from market, the famous Saturday’s Paddington
1830s Georgian and Regency homes, which Markets, brims with local designers
were knocked down, rebuilt and subdivided. showcasing their wares. Centennial Park
Large parts of Paddington are recognized as provides a peaceful oasis, while the leisure
heritage conservation areas for the aesthetic and sporting precinct, including the
value of their highly consistent streetscape Entertainment Quarter, Sydney Cricket
of handsome terraces in the winding Ground and Allianz Stadium, gets the
backstreets. With its elegant “village” feel, adrenalin pumping.

Restaurants pp194–5 7 Buon Ricardo 14 Lucio’s
1 10 William Street 8 Buzo 15 The Paddington
2 Ampersand Café & Bookstore 9 Crème Café 16 Paddington Inn
3 Bellevue Dining 10 Four in Hand by Guillaume 17 Saint Peter
4 Big Mama’s 11 Fred’s 18 Tiger Mottle
5 Bistro Moncur 12 Hotel Centennial 19 Vino e Cucina
6 Brigade Dining 13 The London Hotel 20 Wine Library




STREET
BARCOM AVE B OUNDARY MACDONALD BROWN ST
ST
GLENMORE ROAD See also Street Finder,
ST PADDINGTON maps 5 & 6
DOWLING O X F O R D S T R E E T ORMOND STREET STAFFORD ST CASCADE ST HARGRAVE STREET
80m
SOUTH SELWYN STREET GREENS ROAD WILLIAM ST


UNDERWOOD
11 •15 ELIZABETH STREET PADDINGTON STREET

RENNY STREET
O X F O R D
STREET MONCUR STREET
A N Z A C
WOOLLAHRA
M O O R E
MOORE LEINSTER
S T R E E T
PAR K P A R K STREET Q U E E N S T R E E T
GORDON STREET
ALLIANZ
STADIUM R O A D JAMES STREET
Kippax D R I VER A V E N U E
Lake O X F O R D S T RE E T
PA R A D E
GREGORY
AVENUE
SYDNEY
CRICKET R O A D
GROUND
O O K CENTENNIAL LANE CENTENNIAL
MACARTHUR FOX C L A N G R O A D
AVE STUDIOS PARK
ENTERTAINMENT
QUARTER
For keys to symbols see back flap
124-125_EW_Sydney.indd 125 29/05/17 12:16 pm

126  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Paddington

Paddington began to flourish in the 1840s following the
construction of Victoria Barracks. A village emerged around
the workers’ cottages and rapid development followed
with the building of rows of narrow Victorian terrace
houses. Hard hit by the Great Depression, the area became
rundown and slum-like. A 1947 plan proposing mass
demolition to build blocks of flats was thwarted by an
influx of postwar European migrants, who found the area 4. Five Ways
This shopping hub was estab lished
convenient and affordable. The 1960s saw the restoration in the late 19th century on the
of homes and gentrification of the bohemian suburb. busy Glenmore roadway trodden
out by bullocks.
G L E N M O R E R O A D G U R N E R S T R E E T









Duxford Street’s terrace houses H E E L E Y S T R E E T W H I T E L A N E S U F F O L K L A N E
in toning pale shades constitute an
ideal of town planning: the Victo rians
preferred houses in a row to have a D U X F O R D S T R E E T S U F F O L K S T R E E T
pleasingly uniform aspect.



B R O U G H T
S T A F F O R D L A N E
O N S T R E E T
E
“Gingerbread” N
houses can be A L
seen in Broughton
and Union streets. S T A F F O R D S T R E E T N
With their steeply O
pitched gables and I N
fretwork barge­ U N I O N S T R E E T U
boards, they are
typical of the rustic
Gothic Picturesque
architectural style.
The London Tavern U N D E R W O O D S T R E E T
opened for business in
1875, making it the
suburb’s oldest pub. W I L L I A M S T R E E T
Like many of the pubs
and delicatessens in
this well­serviced
suburb, it stands at
the end of a row
of terraces.
Key
Suggested route





126-127_EW_Sydney.indd 126 29/05/17 12:19 pm

P ADDINGT ON  127

The Korban/Flaubert design and KINGS CROSS AND
sculpture studio is housed in this DARLINGHURST
strikingly modern building. The
former home of the Sherman
Galleries, it was designed to hold
contemporary sculp ture and PADDINGTON
paintings. Suitable access gates and
a special in-house crane enable the
movement of large-scale artworks.
Locator Map
Paddington’s streets are See Street Finder, maps 5 & 6
a treasure trove of galleries,
bars and restaurants. A wander
through the area should prove
an enjoyable experience.





G U R N E R S T R E E T



S U F F O L K L A N E
lying at the end of a row of humble terraces.
S U F F O L K S T R E E T O O N N O R F O L K L A N E H A R G R A V E S T Warwick, built in the 1860s, is a minor castle
Its turrets, battlements and assorted decorations,
in a style somewhat fancifully described as “King
R
Arthur”, even adorn the garages at the rear.
F
L
K S T R E E T
E T E
R Windsor
B R O U G H T
T Street’s terrace
O N S T R E E T
S
houses are,
E
N E in some cases,
A D a mere 4.5 m
L A (15 ft) wide.

N H O P E T O U N S T R E E T A C S
U N I O N S T R E E T U O I N C W I N D S O R S T
Street-making in Paddington’s
early days was often an expen sive
and complicated business.
A cascade of water was dammed
W I L L I A M S T R E E T D U D L E Y S T R E E T 1. Paddington Street
to build Cascade Street.
PA D D I N G T O N S T R E E T

Under the established
plane trees, some of
Paddington’s finest
Victorian terraces
exemplify the building
0 metres 50 boom of 1860–90. Over
0 yards 50 30 years, 3,800 houses
were built in the suburb.




126-127_EW_Sydney.indd 127 29/05/17 12:19 pm

128  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


and Fox Studios, which bags to tarot reading, and
produced such well-known films from Oriental massages to
as The Matrix and Moulin Rouge. handmade soaps.
There are 16 cinema screens
where you can watch the latest
movies, and at the La Premiere 4 Five Ways
cinema you can enjoy your Cnr Glenmore Rd & Heeley St.
movie with wine and cheese, Map 5 C3. @ 389.
sitting on comfort able sofas.
There are four live-entertain- There is a busy shopping hub at
ment venues which regularly this picturesque junction by the
feature the latest local and tramline that once ran to Bondi
international acts. You can also Beach. On the five corners stand
enjoy bungy trampolining, Victorian and early 20th-century
bowling or seasonal ice-skating, shops, one now a restaurant.
A typical pretty terrace house on and children will love the three On another corner is the
Paddington Street well-designed playgrounds. impressive Royal Hotel, built in
In addition to shops there are 1888. This mixed Victorian and
1 Paddington plenty of restaurants, cafés and Classical Revival building has a
Street bars offering a range of meals, charac teristic intricate cast-iron
“lace”-screen balcony offering
drinks and snacks.
Map 6 D3. @ 333, 378, 380. Every Wednesday and stunning harbour views.
Saturday you can sample
With its huge plane trees shading fresh produce at the EQ Village
the road and fine two-, three- Markets or try a gourmet
and four-storey terrace houses delicacy from one of the
on each side, Paddington Street dozens of stallholders. Sunday’s
is one of the oldest, loveliest, market focuses on merchandise
and at the same time most rather than food.
typical of the suburb’s streets. Shops are open until late,
Paddington grew rapidly as offering a good selection of
a commuter suburb in the late fashion, books and homewares.
19th century and most of the There is plenty of undercover
terraces were built for renting parking and the complex is a
to the city’s artisans. They were pleasant stroll from Oxford Street. Balcony of the Royal Hotel in the heart
cheaply decorated with iron of Paddington
lace (some of which had arrived 3 Paddington
in ships as ballast), as well as
Grecian-style friezes, worked Markets 5 Juniper Hall
parapets, swagged urns, lions 395 Oxford St. Map 6 D4. Tel 9331 250 Oxford St. Map 5 C3. Tel 9357
rampant, cornices, pilasters, 2923. @ 333, 378, 380. Open 5222. @ 333, 378, 380. Open see
scrolls and other fancy plastering. 10am–4pm Sat. Closed 25 Dec. website for exhibition details and
By the 1900s, these terraces 7 See Shops and Markets: p203. dates. ∑ juniperhall.com.au
had become unfashionable, ∑ paddingtonmarkets.com.au
but in the 1960s, tastes The emancipist gin distiller
changed again and Paddington This market, which began Robert Cooper built this superb
experienced a renaissance. in 1973, takes place every example of Colonial Georgian
Paddington Street now has Saturday, come rain or shine, architecture for his third wife,
a chic atmosphere, and small art in the grounds of Paddington Sarah. He named it after the
galleries operate out of quaint Village Uniting Church and its main ingredient of the gin
and grand shopfronts. neighbouring school. It is a that made his fortune.
place to meet and be seen Completed in 1824, it is the
2 The Entertainment as much as it is to shop. Stall- oldest building in Paddington
still standing. It is probably
holders come from all over
Quarter the world, and many young also the largest and most
designers hoping to launch extravagant. It had to be: he
Lang Rd, Moore Park. Tel 8117 6700.
Map 5 C5. @ 339, 355. Open most their careers display their already had 14 children when
retail shops are open 10am–10pm. wares. Among the offerings he declared that Sarah would
∑ eqmoorepark.com.au are jewellery, pottery, new have the finest house in Sydney.
and secondhand clothing, Juniper Hall was saved from
There’s a vibrant atmosphere and an array of other arts demolition in the mid-1980s
at the Entertainment Quarter, and crafts. Whatever you are and fully restored. It is now home
located next door to Sydney looking for, you are likely to to the annual Moran Art Prize
Cricket Ground, Allianz Stadium find it here, from designer (www.moranprizes.com.au).



128-129_EW_Sydney.indd 128 29/05/17 12:16 pm

P ADDINGT ON  129

6 Paddington
Town Hall
249 Oxford St (cnr Oatley Rd). Map
5 C3. Tel 9265 9189. @ 333, 378, 380.
Library: Open 9:30am–6pm Mon, Tue,
Thu & Fri, noon–8pm Wed, 10am–4pm
Sat. ∑ palacecinemas.com.au
The Paddington Town Hall
was completed in 1891. An
inter national competition
which, in a spirit of Victorian
self-confidence, was intended
to produce the state’s finest
town hall, was won by local
architect J E Kemp. His Classical The lush green expanse of Centennial Park
Revival building, to which a clock
tower was later added, still 8 Victoria Barracks foundations 10 m (40 ft) deep
dominates the surrounding Oxford St. Map 5 B4. Tel 8335 in places. In a former jail block,
area, although it is no longer a 5330. @ 333, 378, 380. Museum: a museum traces New South
centre of local government. Open 10am–1pm Thu (last adm Wales’ military heritage.
The building now houses noon), 10am–4pm first Sun of month.
Chauvel Cinema in the former Closed Dec & Jan. 7 8 Parade &
ballroom, which is managed by tour: 10am Thu. ∑ armymuseum 9 Centennial Park
the Australian Film Institute, as nsw.com.au Map 6 E5. Tel 9339 6699. @ Clovelly,
well as the Paddington Library. Coogee, Maroubra, Randwick,
The Regency-style Victoria Bronte, City, Bondi Beach & Bondi
Barracks, covering almost Junction routes, Bondi Explorer Bus.
12 ha (29 acres), is one of the Open the park is open permanently;
best-known examples of military cars are permitted from sunrise.
architecture, not only in - 0 7 8 on request.
Australia but also in the world. ∑ centennialparklands.com.au
Designed by the Colonial
Engineer, Lieutenant Colonel Entering this large park
George Barney, the barracks through one of its sand stone
were built between 1841 and and wrought-iron gates, the
1848 using local sandstone visitor may wonder how such
quarried by mainly convict an extensive and idyllic space
labour. Originally intended to has survived so close to the
house 800 men, it has been in centre of the city.
Paddington Town Hall, at the highest point continuous military use ever Formerly a common, it was
in the Oxford Street ridge since, and still operates as a dedicated “to the enjoyment of
centre of military planning, the people of New South Wales
administration and command. forever” on 26 January 1888, the
7 Paddington The main block is 225 m centenary of the foundation of
Village (740 ft) long and has symmet- the colony. On 1 January 1901,
rical two-storey wings with more than 100,000 people
Cnr Gipps & Shadforth Sts. Map 5 C3. cast-iron verandas flanking a gathered here to witness the
@ 333, 378, 380.
central archway. The perimeter birth of the Commonwealth of
Paddington began its life as walls, which are designed to Australia with the proclamation
a working-class suburb. The repel surprise attacks, have of the Federation of Australia.
community comprised the The striking Federation Pavilion
carpenters, quarrymen and marks the site of this event.
stonemasons who supervised Today picnickers, painters,
the convict gangs that built runners, horse riders, cyclists
Victoria Barracks in the 1840s. and inline skaters enjoy this vast
The artisans and their fami lies recreation area.
occupied a tight huddle of spar- Once the source of Sydney’s
tan houses, a few of which still water supply, the swamps are
remain, crowded into the narrow now home to many waterbirds.
streets nearby. Like the barracks, Within the park are ornamen tal
these dwellings and surrounding ponds, cultivated gardens,
shops and hotels were built The archway at the Oxford Street entrance an Avenue of Palms, a sports
mainly of locally quarried stone. to Victoria Barracks ground and a café.




128-129_EW_Sydney.indd 129 29/05/17 12:16 pm

130-131_EW_Sydney.indd 130 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  131
FURTHER AFIELD


Around the harbour foreshores are secluded the harbour. In Balmain, Glebe and Surry Hills,
beaches, cultural and historic sights and scenic visitors can experience the vibrant character
outlooks, including those afforded by Taronga of the inner suburbs, with each area home
Zoo’s stunning setting. The spectacular to a thriving foodie scene and lively markets.
Barangaroo precinct brings a beautiful Imaginative urban planning and architecture
headland park, Barangaroo Reserve, and a has revitalized the inner west suburb of Ultimo
buzzing dining and shopping area to the as a creative and education hub, home to the
northwestern edge of the city centre. Among city’s first Gehry-designed building. Further
Sydney’s beachside playgrounds are the famed west at Parramatta, Sydney’s “second city”,
Manly to the north and Bondi to the south of sights recall early European settlement.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Districts and Buildings Museums and Galleries Restaurants and Pubs
2 Dr Chau Chak Wing Building 1 Brett Whiteley Studio 4 Glebe
3 University of Sydney 0 Nutcote Markets
6 Balmain Parks and Gardens 5 Sydney Fish Market
9 Kirribilli Point 7 Barangaroo
e North Head t Nielsen Park Cemeteries
r Vaucluse House f St John’s Cemetery
y Watsons Bay Entertainment
u Macquarie Lighthouse 8 Luna Park KEY
o Captain Cook’s Landing Place q Taronga Zoo pp136–7
a Elizabeth Farm p Sydney Olympic Park Main sightseeing area
s Hambledon Cottage Beaches Park or reserve
d Experiment Farm Cottage w Manly Metroad route
g Old Government House i Bondi Beach
Freeway or motorway
Major road
Minor road
0 km 6
0 miles 3

Sights Outside Central Sydney Newcastle Palm Beach
26 Manly
1 w
Parramatta 55 3 2 Chatswood 12
g 40
f s Ryde e
d a 14 14
Katoomba 45 p 1
0 q y u
44 4 3 8
55 9 Port Jackson t r
6 7
4 40
44
Burwood 5 2 76
4
3 1
5 4 i
3 70 Bondi
31
Bankstown 66 17
5 54 1
45
54
Sydney
Airport
55
5 3
5 1 Maroubra
Rockdale
55 70
1
3 64
Botany Bay
7
1
G eorges River
Kurnell
45 Wollongong Cronulla o
The Ferris wheel at Luna Park
130-131_EW_Sydney.indd 131 29/05/17 12:16 pm

132  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


2 Dr Chau Chak 3 University
Wing Building of Sydney
14–28 Ultimo Rd, University of Parramatta Rd, Camperdown.
Technology, Sydney, Ultimo. Map 4 D4. Map 3 A5. Tel 9351 2222. @ 343,
Tel 9514 2000.  Central Station. Parramatta Rd & City Rd routes.
@ Parramatta Rd & City Rd routes. Open daily. 7 8 phone 9351
∑ uts.edu.au 2274 (book one week in advance).
Named after the philanthropist Inaugurated in 1850, this is
who funded its construction, Australia’s oldest university.
the Dr Chau Chak Wing Building The campus is a sprawling mix
is the first building in Australia of buildings from different eras,
designed by the renowned and often of dubious architec tural
influential architect, Frank Gehry. merit. However, the original
Brett Whiteley Studio: former artist’s studio, Affectionately dubbed the Victorian Gothic main building
now a museum “crumpled brown paper bag” still stands on its ele vated site,
building, this 2015 masterpiece of dominating its surroundings.
1 Brett Whiteley design and engineering is home The work of the Colonial
Studio to the Business School at the Architect Edmund Blacket, it
University of Technology (UTS). is scrupulously modelled on the
2 Raper St, Surry Hills. Map 5 A4. Gehry described the design architecture of Cam bridge and
Tel 9225 1881. @ 343, 372, 393. as a metaphorical tree house, Oxford. It features intricate stone
Open 10am–4pm Fri–Sun, or a “growing, learning organism tracery, a clock tower with carved
by appointment on Wed & Thu. with many branches of pinnacles and gargoyles, and
Closed Easter Sun, 25 Dec.
7 partial access. thought”. a cloistered main quadrangle.
The design is striking, The gem of the campus
In June 1992, Brett Whiteley, both on the outside and is the Great Hall at the
enfant terrible of Australian the inside. The exterior main building’s northern
contemporary art, died features an east­ end. This sombre building,
unex pectedly at the age of 53. facing, sandstone­ with its carved cedar
An internationally acclaimed coloured brick façade ceiling and stained­glass
and prolific artist, he produced that undulates like windows depic ting
some of the most sumptuous fabric, and a western famous philosophers
images of Sydney and its façade of angular glass and scientists, is used
dis tinctive harbour ever painted. shards that reflects the for public concerts and
In 1985, Whiteley bought a city back to itself. The university ceremonies.
former factory and converted “fluid” brickwork was The Nicholson
it into a studio and residence. a technical feat, with Statue of Hermes, Museum of antiquities
The studio is now a public custom­made brick Nicholson Museum (see p39), the Macleay
museum and art gallery. shapes laid by hand. Museum and the War
Very few changes have The building is on the route Memorial Art Gallery are all within
been made to the building of The Goods Line pedestrian the grounds. They are open to
since Whiteley was in residence. walkway (see p101). the public on most weekdays.
The furniture, lighting, collections
of memorabilia, postcards,
photographs and other objects
are all as he arranged them.
The upstairs studio includes
his unfinished paintings, art
equipment, collections of
reference books, and a graffiti
wall covered with his quotes
and images. Even the music
that is played is from Whiteley’s
own collection.
The studio is under the admin­
istra tion of the Art Gallery of New
South Wales (see pp110–13), and
displays changing exhibitions
of the artist’s works borrowed
from the Whiteley Estate, the
Art Gallery of New South Wales
and private collections. The east-facing façade of the unusual Dr Chau Chak Wing Building




132-133_EW_Sydney.indd 132 29/05/17 12:19 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  133


delicacies. Visitors watch the
experts as they tenderize
octopus and squid in concrete
mixers. As well as fishmongers,
there are a number of fresh food
shops, several restaurants and a
seafood school – cost includes
tuition, seafood and wine.

6 Balmain
@ 433, 434, 442. See Shops and
Markets p203 and Four Guided Walks
pp144–5.
Balmain was once one of Sydney’s
most staunchly working-class
areas, with ship yards, a dry dock
and repair yards, a coal mine,
numerous rough-and-ready pubs
and an intimidating criminal
element. Its late 19th-century
town hall, post office, court
house and fire station in Darling
Street reflect the civic pride of
Badde Manors Café on Glebe Point Road, Glebe the suburb in the Victorian era.
The many stone and timber
4 Glebe to New Age goods and chattels. cottages of what had become
Glebe Market, held every a slum have transformed into a
Map 3 A4. @ 431, 433.
See Shops and Markets: p203. Saturday, sells an array of charming, bustling suburb that
jewellery, secondhand clothing still retains its village character,
The word “Glebe” means land and bric-à-brac. with inter esting shops, galleries,
assigned to a clergyman as part cafés, restaurants and pubs.
of his benefice. In 1789, Governor 5 Sydney Fish The proximity of the Balmain
Phillip granted 162 ha (400 acres) peninsula to the city and its
to Richard Johnson, the First Market bohemian ambience may
Fleet chap lain, and his wife Mary. Cnr Pyrmont Bridge Rd & Bank St, explain why many prominent
Almost all of the present suburb Pyrmont. Map 3 B2. Tel 9004 1100. writers – including novelist Kate
was once part of that Glebe @ 443, 501. v Fish Market. Open Grenville and playwright David
Estate. Many of its streets wind 7am–5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec. Williamson – have lived and
down to the working harbour 7 8 6:40pm Mon & Wed–Fri. worked here.
and contain terrace houses Booking essential; phone 9004 1143. The Saturday market, held
with Sydney wrought-iron ∑ sydneyfishmarket.com.au at St Andrews Congregational
“lace” in varying states of repair. See Shops and Markets: p202. Church in Darling Street, is
The once-grand residences one of Sydney’s best. Antiques,
of the 19th-century élite were Every weekday, about 200 estate jewellery and ingenious
mostly towards the harbour sea food retailers and dealers art and craft items are on sale.
end of Glebe Point Road, with arrive at this market’s private
workers’ cottages clustered auction to bid for the previous
nearer Parramatta Road. Glebe is day’s catch. It is sold by Dutch
still partly a gentrified member auc tion, with prices starting high
of the café society, although and decreas ing. The volume and
its proximity to the Broadway variety of the catch, including fish
shopping mall and its popularity and sea food, makes this the most
with students from the nearby diverse fish market after Tokyo.
University of Sydney have given A fair amount of this catch
it a more bustling atmosphere. ends up, later in the morning, in
It is densely populated and the fish market’s six large retail
lively, with many restaurants outlets which, for the general
and cafés in all price ranges, public, are its main attraction.
traditional and trendy pubs, As well as fresh fish, these retailers
good bookshops, an art- sell smoked salmon and roe,
house cinema and shops selling sushi, mari nated baby octopus Imposing entrance to Balmain court house
everything from antique clocks and many other ready-to-eat on Darling Street




132-133_EW_Sydney.indd 133 29/05/17 12:19 pm

134  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


7 Barangaroo operating example of a true
1930s fun house, and the gentle
Map 1 A2–3. g Barangaroo.
∑ barangaroo.sydney Ferris Wheel ride is popular for
its panoramic views of the
Named after Barangaroo, a harbour, especially as the sun sets.
Cammeraygal woman who was Both an amusement and
a key figure in the early days of entertainment precinct, Luna
Colonial Sydney, this area Park includes the 2,000-seat Big
stretches along the foreshore Top entertain ment and concert
west of Hickson Road near venue. While entry to the park is
Millers Point, and from The Rocks free, passes are required for the
to King Street Wharf and Darling rides and entry into Coney Island.
Harbour in the south. The
massive redevelop ment has
transformed this former 9 Kirribilli Point
industrial site and shipping- Kirribilli Ave, Kirribilli. g Kirribilli
container terminal into a North Sydney.
stunning foreshore precinct
comprising recreation, culture, Ferris wheel at Luna Park, which is based Best seen on the water from a
retail and business offerings. on the Coney Island fair of the same name ferry or harbour cruise, the two
To the north, Barangaroo houses occupying this prominent
Reserve is a magnificent six- 8 Luna Park headland, in their delightful
hectare (15-acre) harbourfront 1 Olympic Drive, Milsons Point. garden settings, are typical
park (see p46). Filled with over Tel 9922 6644. Open times vary, of the magnificent homes in
84 species of native plants, it check website for details.  Milsons sprawling grounds that once
offers walking paths, cycling Point. g Milsons Point. 7 ringed the harbour. Most have
trails and a welcome place to ∑ lunaparksydney.com been demolished now and the
relax by the water. Signposts land subdivided for apartment
tell the story of the area’s Luna Park represents Sydney’s living. Kirribilli, meaning “place
maritime and Aboriginal history, collective childhood. It has for fishing”, is the most densely
while there are tours for those been one of the most iconic populated suburb in Australia.
wanting to explore in more detail. destinations on the Sydney The larger, more dominant
The Wynyard Walk, a pedestrian Harbour shoreline for both locals of the two houses is Admiralty
tunnel, links Sydney’s Central and visitors since its inception in House, built as a single-storey
Business District to Barangaroo 1935. The park’s famous smiling residence in 1843. Between
waterfront’s dining and shopping face entrance has welcomed 1885 and 1913 it served as the
precinct, which fills with office generations to experience its residence of the commanding
workers from the towers that historic architec ture and classic officer of Britain’s Royal Navy
have dramatically added to the attrac tions, combined with Pacific Squadron, which was
skyline on the city’s edge. modern rides. Inspired by based in Sydney. Fortifications
The final stage of the develop- New York’s Coney Island, the on the shoreline recall its mil-
ment, Barangaroo Central, will predominant style here is Art itary history. Now the official
house a luxury hotel and Deco, with the two towers of Sydney home of Australia’s
controversial VIP-only casino. the gateway face inspired by the governor-general, it is said that
Once completed in 2024, the Chrysler Building in New York even its shed could be consid-
entire Barangaroo precinct will City. Luna Park’s heritage-listed ered the city’s best address.
be connected by walking paths. Coney Island is the world’s last In 1855, the charming Gothic
Kirribilli House, with its steep
gables and decorative fretwork,
was built in the grounds of
Admiralty House. Today it is
the official Sydney residence
of Australia’s prime minister.

0 Nutcote
5 Wallaringa Ave, Neutral Bay. Tel 9953
4453. g Neutral Bay. Open 11am–
3pm Wed–Sun. Closed some public
hols. & 8 ∑ nutcote.org
One of the classics of Aust ralian
children’s literature, Snugglepot
Walking paths in Barangaroo Reserve, a harbour foreshore park and Cuddlepie, was published in




134-135_EW_Sydney.indd 134 29/05/17 12:16 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  135


pines. Nearby is a monument
to a local newspaper proprietor
who, in 1902, defied bans on
daytime bathing and was
promptly arrested.
Every October Manly hosts
a great jazz festival (see p50).

e North Head
g Manly. Quarantine Station Ghost
Tours: bookings essential (starting
times vary). Tel 9466 1500.
∑ qstation.com.au
The majestic cliffs of North Head
Shop façades featuring decorative gables along Manly’s Corso afford the finest views in Sydney
Harbour National Park, providing
1918. Since then, these two your time in the city, most vistas along the coastline, across
characters – known as the Sydneysiders would nominate to Middle Harbour and towards
“gumnut” babies along with the a ferry ride to Manly. This narrow the city. North Head is also the
cartoon characters Bib and Bub – stretch of land lying between ideal place for observing the
have been loved by countless the har bour and ocean was movements of harbour and
young Australians. named by Governor Phillip, even seagoing craft and especially for
Nutcote was, for 44 years, the before the township of Sydney seeing off the yachts at the start
home of their creator, illus trator got its name, for the impressive of the annual Sydney to Hobart
and author May Gibbs. Saved bearing of the Aboriginal men. race (see p51).
from demolition then restored As the ferry pulls in to Manly The Quarantine Station nestles
and refurbished in the style of Wharf you will notice on the just above Spring Cove within
the 1930s, it opened in 1994 right many shops, restau rants the national park. Here, between
as an historic house museum. and bars and on the left, the 1832 and the 1960s, many ships,
Visitors can view the author’s tranquil harbourside beach with their crews and their migrant
painstakingly kept notebooks known as Manly Cove. passengers, were quaran tined to
and other memo rabilia At the far end of Manly Cove protect Sydneysiders from the
(including the table at which is Manly SEA LIFE Sanctuary, spread of epidemic diseases.
she worked), as well as original where visitors can see reptiles, More than 500 people died
editions of her books. There is sharks and giant stingrays in here, leading some to believe
a garden with views across the an underwater viewing tunnel. that the area is haunted.
harbour and a shop that sells You can also dive with sharks, Accommodation is available
a range of May Gibbs’ souvenirs. and details of Shark Dive Xtreme in Q Station’s historic cottages,
are on the sanctuary’s website. while the site, including its hos-
The Corso is a lively pedes- pital, shower block and morgue,
q Taronga Zoo trian thoroughfare of souvenir can be explored on a guided
shops and fast-food outlets, “ghost” tour. Countless migrants
See pp136–7.
with a market held there on spent their first months in
Sundays. The Corso leads to Australia in isolation here. Many
Manly’s ocean beach, with its of its internees left poignant mes-
w Manly promenade lined by towering sages carved in the sandstone.
g Manly. Manly SEA LIFE Sanctuary:
West Esplanade. Tel 1800 614 069.
Open 9:30am–5pm daily. Closed
25 Dec. & 8 See Four Guided Walks:
pp148–9. ∑ manlysealifesanctuary.
com.au
Long after Australia’s conver sion
to the metric system, the slogan
“seven miles from Sydney and a
thousand miles from care” is still
current. It refers to Manly and
the 7-mile (11-km) journey from
Circular Quay by harbour ferry.
If asked to suggest a single
excursion to enjoy during First-class quarters at the Quarantine Station, North Head




134-135_EW_Sydney.indd 135 29/05/17 12:16 pm

136  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

q Taronga Zoo

This harbourside zoo is home to more than 4,000 animals,
including native wildlife and rare and endangered exotic
species, living in environments closely resembling their natural
habitat. A not-for-profit organization supporting wildlife
conservation, Taronga Zoo offers a daily programme of shows,
keeper talks, animal feedings and behind-the-scenes tours. Its
elevated location provides one of the city’s most spectacular Australian Walkabout
vantage points – take the Sky Safari cable-car ride to Get a close look at kangaroos,
the top entrance, then meander along the wallabies, echidnas and native birds.
winding paths back to the bottom.
Learn about seals at
the Seal Show. Be
prepared to get
splashed if seated
near the front.
Athol Wharf Road
Lower
entrance
Bradleys Head Road
The platypus is one
of only three species of Athol Wharf Road
egg-laying mammals.


Key to Animal Enclosures
1 Main entrance and Taronga Piazza
2 Sky Safari
3 Australian Walkabout
4 Platypus
5 Australia’s Nightlife
6 Blue Mountains Bushwalk
7 Red Kangaroo
8 Tasmanian Devils
9 Backyard to Bush
0 Wombat Burrow
q Saltwater Crocodile
w Cotton-top Tamarins
e Penguins
r Seal Show Bradleys Head Road
t Great Southern Oceans
y Red Pandas
u Rainforest Trail
i Fishing Cat
o Otters
p Asian Elephants
a QBE Free Flight Bird Show Upper entrance
s Sun Bears
d Sumatran Tiger Adventure
f Meerkats Sky Safari
g Giraffes The Sky Safari cable car
gives visitors an aerial
h Chimpanzees view of the zoo. It travels
j Reptile World from the lower entrance
k Koalas near the ferry wharf,
l Welcome to the Wild Theatre reached via a 12-minute
z Taronga Food Market ferry ride from the city,
x Gorillas to the top entrance of
c Lemur Forest Adventure the zoo’s plaza.




136-137_EW_Sydney.indd 136 29/05/17 12:16 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  137


Asian Elephants VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Taronga has an extensive
breeding and conservation Practical Information
programme for the endangered Bradleys Head Rd, Mosman.
Asian elephants. The precinct Tel 9969 2777. Open 9:30am–
features a rain forest habitat 5pm daily (May–Aug & 31 Dec: to
with pools, mud wallows 4:30pm). & 7 8 0 - =
and scratching posts. ∑ taronga.org.au
Transport
Australian Walkabout Ferry to @ 238, 247, 250. g Taronga Zoo.
Get a close look at kangaroos, Circular Quay
wallabies, echidnas and native birds.
. Sumatran
Tiger Adventure
With just several hundred
remaining in the wild,
Sumatran tigers were
Taronga added to the zoo in 2017
Zoo
as part of conservation
efforts to protect these
endangered animals.
Athol Wharf Road












Meerkats
This southern African mongoose always forages in
groups, with a guard standing alert for signs of danger.
The spectacular QBE Free Flight Bird Show
includes condors showing their talents in an
amphi theatre overlooking the harbour.






Reptile World has
amphibians, inverte­
brates and reptiles.






. Koalas
Visitors can see the koalas in their eucalypt Giraffes
habitat at tree level, although they are most 0 metres 100 The giraffes mark the start of the
likely to be found resting – koalas can African Safari trail that includes
spend 18–20 hours sleeping each day. 0 yards 100 bongos, meerkats and zebras.
For keys to symbols see back flap


136-137_EW_Sydney.indd 137 29/05/17 12:16 pm

138  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


the unusual peace that
descends on many harbour
beaches on an endless sunny
day. It is also an ideal vantage
point from which to enjoy a
spectacular summer sunset or
simply to observe the coming
and going of ferries and the
meandering harbour traffic.
In the midst of this tranquil
setting, enhancing its charm,
stands Greycliffe House with
its decorative gables and
ornate chimney stacks.
Façade of Vaucluse House, with its garden and fountain This Victorian Gothic mansion
was completed in 1852 for
r Vaucluse House have been restored to 1840s W C Wentworth’s daughter.
style and the house contains
Wentworth Rd, Vaucluse. Tel 9388
7922. @ 325. Open 10am–4pm Wed– furniture that belonged to the y Watsons Bay
Sun (daily in Jan, NSW school hols & Wentworth family. A popular
public hols). Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. tea house is in the grounds. @ 324, 325. g Watsons Bay. See Four
& 7 limited. 8 ∑ sydneyliving Guided Walks: pp150–51.
museums.com.au/vaucluse-house
As the base for the boats that
Tradition has it that the most take the pilots out to arriving
riotous party colonial Sydney ships, this pretty bay has been
ever saw took place on the a vital part of the working
Vaucluse House lawns in 1831. harbour for many years. It is
W C Wentworth and 4,000 of also the home of Doyle’s famous
his political cronies gathered waterfront seafood restaurant,
there to celebrate the recall long a magnet for Sydneysiders
to England of Governor Ralph and visitors alike.
Darling, the arch-enemy. Just up the hill and almost
W C Wentworth was a major opposite the bay on the ocean
figure in the colony, being one side is The Gap, a spectacular
of the first three Europeans to Greycliffe House, in the tranquil grounds of cliff with tragic associations.
cross the Blue Mountains (see Nielsen Park Many troubled people have
pp162–3). He was the son of a taken a suicidal leap from
female convict and a physi cian t Nielsen Park this rugged cliff on to the
forced to “volunteer” his services @ 325. Open Sunrise–10pm daily. wave-lashed rocks below.
to the new colony in order to It was here that the ill-fated
avoid conviction on a highway Part of the Sydney Harbour ship Dunbar was wrecked in
robbery charge. National Park, Nielsen Park, with 1857, with the loss of all but one
The younger Wentworth its grassy expanses, sandy beach of its 122 passengers and crew.
became an author, barrister and and netted swimming pool, Treacherous conditions had led
statesman who stood for the is the perfect spot for a family to miscalculation of the ship’s
Australian-born “currency” lads picnic. Here visitors can savour distance from the Heads. All
and lasses against the “sterling”
English-born. He lived here with
his family from 1829 to 1853,
during which time he drafted
the Constitution Bill, giving self-
government to the state.
Vaucluse House was begun in
1803 by Sir Henry Browne Hayes,
a knight of the realm transported
for kidnapping a Quaker heiress.
Sitting in 11 ha (27 acres) of
parkland, natural bush and
cultivated gardens, this Gothic
Revival house, with its many
idiosyncratic additions, resem-
bles a West Indian plantation
house. The interior and grounds View over Watsons Bay, looking southwest towards the city




138-139_EW_Sydney.indd 138 29/05/17 12:19 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  139























The crescent-shaped Bondi Beach, Sydney’s most famous beach, looking towards North Bondi
hands were ordered on deck as away, the present lighthouse wide in search of the perfect
The Gap’s rock walls loomed. The was built. Although designed by wave, and inline skaters hone
recovered anchor is now set into Colonial Architect James Barnet, their skills on the promenade.
the cliff near the shipwreck site. it was based on Greenway’s Despite a growing awareness
original and was illuminated of the dangers of sun expo sure
for the first time in 1883. (see p223) and an expansion of
other cultural preoccupations,
beach life still defines the lives
i Bondi Beach of many Australians, who regard
it as healthier than ever.
@ 333, 380, 381. See Four Guided
Walks: pp146–7. People seek out Bondi for
its trendy seafront cafés and
This long crescent of golden cosmopolitan milieu as much as
sand, so close to the city, has for the beach. The pavilion, built
long been a mecca for the in 1928 as changing rooms, has
sun and surf set (see pp56–7). been a community centre since
Throughout the year, surfing the 1970s. Note that Bondi Beach
enthusiasts visit from far and itself is an alcohol-free zone.
Bondi Surf Bathers’ Life Saving Club
The 1883 Macquarie Lighthouse
overlooking the Pacific Ocean The founding of the surf lifesaving club at Bondi Beach in
u Macquarie 1906 gave impetus to the formation of other local clubs,
and ultimately to a global movement. An early club member
Lighthouse demonstrated his new lifesaving reel, designed using hair pins
and a cotton reel. Now updated, it is standard equipment
@ 324, 325. 7
on beaches worldwide. In 1938, Australia’s largest surf
This is the second lighthouse rescue was mounted at Bondi, when up to 250 people
on this windswept site that is were washed out to sea by freak waves. Five died, but
attributed to the convict architect lifesavers rescued or resuscitated more than 200,
Francis Greenway (see p116). establishing their highly dependable reputation.
He supervised the construction
of the first tower, which was
completed in 1818 and described
by Governor Macquarie as a
“noble magni ficent edifice”.
The colony’s first lighthouse,
it replaced the previous system
of bonfires lit up along the
headland and earned Greenway
a conditional pardon. When the Bondi surf lifesaving team at the Bondi Surf Carnival, 1937
sandstone eventually crumbled




138-139_EW_Sydney.indd 139 29/05/17 12:19 pm

140  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

o Captain Cook’s
Landing Place
Captain Cook Drive, Kamay Botany Bay
National Park, Kurnell. Tel 9668 2000.
@ 987. Toll Gate: Open 7am–7:30pm
daily (to 5:30pm Jun & Jul). Visitor
Centre: Open 9:30am–4:30pm
daily. Closed 25 Dec. & 7
∑ nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Although it is difficult to get to,
visitors will find this place worth
the effort. It is, after all, one
of Australia’s most impor tant
European historic sites. Here
James Cook, botanists Daniel
Solander and Joseph Banks Pampas grass and banana plants in the garden at Elizabeth Farm
and the crew of HMS Endeavour
landed on 29 April 1770. and the importance of their a Elizabeth Farm
Aboriginal peoples with spears conservation; an interesting 70 Alice St, Rosehill. Tel 9635 9488. 4
were shot at. One, hit in the exhi bition detailing Cook’s Parramatta.  Parramatta or Gran ville.
legs, returned with a shield exploration of the area; and Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (daily
to defend himself. an introduction to Aboriginal in Jan, NSW school hols & pub hols).
Nowadays people can cast a customs and culture. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 8 7 -
fishing line from the rock where ∑ sydneylivingmuseums.com.au
the Europeans stepped ashore. p Sydney
Nearby are the site of a well The discovery of fertile land
where, Cook recorded, a Olympic Park at Parramatta, and the harvest-
shore party “found fresh water Homebush Bay. Tel 9714 7888. ing of its first successful grain
sufficient to water the ship” and  Olympic Park. Visitor Centre crop in 1790, helped save the
a monument which marks the (1 Showground Rd): Open 9am– fledgling colony from starva tion
first recorded Euro pean burial 5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, Good Fri, and led to the rapid develop-
in Australia. 25 & 26 Dec. 8 7 S - ment of the area.
There are also monuments ∑ sydneyolympicpark.com.au This zone was the location
to Solander, Banks and Cook, of several of Australia’s first
but it is the peaceful ambience Once host to the 27th Summer Colonial land grants. In 1793,
that is most impressive. Now Olympic Games and Paralym pic John Macarthur, who became
part of Kamay Botany Bay Games, Sydney Olympic Park a wealthy farmer and sheep
National Park, Captain Cook’s is situated at Homebush Bay, breeder, was granted 40 ha
Landing Place has lovely walks, 14 km (8.5 miles) west of the (100 acres) of land at Parra-
some accessible to wheelchairs, city centre. The interactive matta. He named the property
where visitors may roam and “ANZ Stadium Explore Tour” after his wife and this was to be
observe the flora which led gives a taste of some of the Elizabeth’s home for the rest of
to the naming of Botany Bay. stadium’s best-loved sporting her life. Macarthur was often
The Visitor Centre in the moments. For nature lovers, absent from the farm as the
park focuses on a number of there is a tour of the five wet- centre of his wool opera tions
themes: the bay’s wetlands lands of the Bicentennial Park. had moved to Camden.
You can buy tickets for tours Part of the house, a simple
at the Visitor Centre. stone cottage built in 1793,
Other facilities at the park still remains and it is the oldest
include the Aquatic Centre, with
a kids’ waterpark, and the Tennis
Centre, where you can play in
the footsteps of such greats as
Lleyton Hewitt. There are picnic
areas and cafés throughout the
park that provide a welcome
rest stop for those exploring the
large precinct on its extensive
bicycle paths. In summer, you
can pack a picnic and enjoy
Movies by the Boulevard, the
Cook’s Obelisk, overlooking Botany Bay, Park΄s free programme of open- John Macarthur (1766–1834), architect of
Captain Cook’s Landing Place air cinema under the stars. the house at Elizabeth Farm




140-141_EW_Sydney.indd 140 29/05/17 12:19 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  141


European building in Australia. start a farm, along with a hut, The first recorded burial was of
Over the next 50 years, it grain for sowing, vital farming a child on 31 January 1790. One
developed into a substantial tools, two sows and prominent grave is that
home with many features of six hens. He success- of church man Samuel
a typical Australian homestead. fully planted and Marsden, who earned
Simply furnished to the period harvested a wheat the title of the “flog ging
of 1820–50, with reproductions crop with his wife parson” during his
of paintings and other posses- Elizabeth’s help. time as magistrate
sions, it is now a museum that She was the first general because of
strongly evokes the original female convict to be his harsh judgments.
inhabitants’ life and times. emancipated in New The merchant Robert
South Wales. In 1791, Medicine chest (c.1810), Campbell (see p68)
they were rewarded Experiment Farm and the father of
with a grant of 12 ha explorer William
(30 acres), the colony’s first Charles Wentworth (see p138),
land grant. Arthur Phillip, D’Arcy Wentworth, are also
governor of the day, called buried here.
it Experiment Farm.
In 1793, Ruse sold this farm
to surgeon John Harris for £40. g Old Government
The date of the cottage is not House
certain, but it is believed to be
The kitchen at Hambledon Cottage restored early 1830s. The woodwork is Parramatta Park (entry by Macquarie
to how it was in the first half of the 1800s Australian red cedar and the St gates), Parramatta. Tel 9635 8149.
 Parramatta. Open 10am–4:30pm
cottage is furnished accord ing
s Hambledon to an 1838 inventory. Tue–Fri, 10:30am–4pm Sat, Sun &
most public hols. Closed Good Fri,
Cottage 25 Dec. & 7 limited. 8
Cnr of Hassall St & Gregory Place, f St John’s ∑ nationaltrust.org.au/places/
Parramatta. Tel 9635 6924. Cemetery old-government-house
 Parramatta. Open 11am–4pm The central block of Old
Thu–Sun. Closed Good Fri, 25 & O’Connell St, Parramatta. Tel 9891
26 Dec. & 7 8 0700.  Parramatta. 7 Government House is the oldest
intact public building in Australia.
This delightful cottage, with its This walled cemetery – the oldest This elegant brick structure,
walls of rendered and painted European cemetery in Australia – plastered to resemble stone,
sandstock, was built in 1824 houses the graves of many was built by Governor Hunter
as the retirement home for convicts and settlers who arrived in 1799 on the site of a cottage
Penelope Lucas, governess to the on the First Fleet in 1788. The constructed in 1790 for Governor
Macarthur daughters. It is set in oldest grave that can be identi- Phillip. Wings to the side and rear
a park containing trees brought fied is the flat sandstone slab were added between 1812 and
to Australia from as early as simply inscribed, “H.E. Dodd 1791”. 1818. The Doric porch, added in
1817 by John Macarthur. Henry Edward Dodd, known to 1816, has been attributed to
Visitors can see rooms restored be Governor Phillip’s butler, was Francis Greenway (see p116).
to the period of 1820–50. the tenth person buried in the Australia’s finest collection
An 1830 Broadwood piano is cemetery, but the location of the of early 19th-century furniture
one of the furniture exhibits. other nine graves is unknown. is now housed inside.
The kitchen has walls of convict-
made bricks and contains
original appliances and utensils.
d Experiment
Farm Cottage
9 Ruse St, Parramatta. Tel 9635 5655.
 Harris Park. Open 10:30am–3:30pm
Wed–Sun. Closed Good Fri, 18–31 Dec.
& 7 8 (groups must book in
advance). ∑ nationaltrust.org.au/
places/experiment-farm-cottage
When his sentence expired in
1789, convict farmer James Ruse
was given 0.6 ha (1½ acres) of
land at Parramatta on which to The drawing room of Old Government House, Parramatta




140-141_EW_Sydney.indd 141 29/05/17 12:19 pm

142-143_EW_Sydney.indd 142 27/05/2015 13:58

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  143

FOUR GUIDED WALKS

Sydney’s temperate climate and natural wearing good-quality sunscreen. In Sydney’s
beauty make it an ideal city for walking. national parks and bushland all the
The following walks have been chosen for indigenous flora and fauna are protected.
their distinct character; they all capture a The best sign of appreciation is to leave the
view of the essential Sydney. You can follow bush as you found it. The Tips for Walkers
the paths that trace the headlands and inlets provide practical information about each
around Watsons Bay; enjoy an invigorating walk, listing accessibility by bus, train or
clifftop walk at Bondi; catch glimpses of ferry and the estimated distance of the walk,
the original landscape in Manly’s unspoilt along with scenic rest areas, picnic spots,
bushland; or explore the narrow streets cafés and restaurants en route. There are
of historic Balmain. Three of the walks some useful websites, such as www.imfree.
incorporate ocean or harbourside beaches, com.au and www.syd neywalks.com.au,
so be prepared in warmer weather by that give details of accompanied walking
packing a swimsuit, towel and hat and tours available throughout Sydney.

Key
0 kilometres 3
Walk route
0 miles 2
Metroad route






Manly
(see pp148–9)












Balmain Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
(see pp144–5) (see pp150–51)











Bondi Beach to Clovelly
(see pp146–7)



The popular Bondi-to-Bronte coastal walk around Sydney’s sandstone cliffs



142-143_EW_Sydney.indd 143 27/05/2015 13:58

144  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

A Two-Hour Walk Around Balmain

Historic Balmain village was named after William Balmain, a
ship’s surgeon on the First Fleet. In 1800, he was granted rights
to 223 ha (550 acres) of the penin sula, which he later sold for
a paltry 5 shillings in a dubious business transaction. From the
mid-1800s, much of the land was subdivided for housing to
support the then flourishing mining and maritime industries.
Today, grand Colonial and Victorian buildings stand side by
side with tiny workers’ cottages, adding variety to every street.

park, Hampton Villa 7 at 12B
Yurulbin
Grafton Street was home to Yurulbin
Point
Point
state premier Henry Parkes. Colourful flower cart on Darling p p Birchgr
Birchgroveove
Turn right into Ewenton Street Street, Balmain
and then left into Wallace Street, J J
with its variety of early Australian R O A D R O A D
architecture. The rough stone L O U I S A
L O U I S A
home at No. 1 is called the
Railway Station as its narrow
frontage makes it resemble Snails
Snails
3 The Waterman’s Cottage, made of one. The charming Bay Bay
locally sourced sandstone Clontarf 8 is at No. 4,
BIRCHGROVE
while Maitland House o o BIRCHGROVE
PARK
PARK
East Balmain 9 has a symmetry
Begin from the Balmain East Wharf worth a second THE T E R R AC E T R E E T
i
i
G R O V E S T R E E T
at the bottom of Darling Street 1. glance. Return THE T E R R AC E W H A R F R O A D
FERDINAND ST
By the 1840s, when the ferry ser­ to Darling STREET STREET FERDINAND ST R O S E S T R E E T G R O V E S
W H A R F R O A D
vice began, ship yards dotted these Street.
R O S E S T R E E T
foreshores. The sandstone building RIVER RIVER COVE STREET BAY S BAY S B A L L A S T W H A R F R O A D
ROWNTREE STREET
at No. 10 Darling Street 2, once Y E E N D
COVE STREET
W H A R F R O A D
B A L L A S T P O I N T
P O I N T
S H O R T S T R E E T
M C K E L L S T R E E T
M C K E L L S T R E E T
the Dolphin Hotel then the Ship­ ROWNTREE STREET R O A D
G I P P S S T R E E T TREET
Y E E N D
R O A D
B I R C H G R O V E R O A D
T H O M A S S T R E E T
T H O M A S S T R E E T
wright’s Arms, was a watering hole u O R T S T R E E T S T R E E T
GOW STREET
S T R E E T
for sailors and ferrymen. Opposite GOW STREET B I R C H G R O V E R O A D G I P P S S T R E E T TREET
u
S H
S P R I N G
S P R I N G
is The Waterman’s Cottage (1841) BAY STREET BAY STREET
MORT BAY
3, home to Henry McKenzie, S T R E E S T R E E T MORT BAY
PARK
PARK
whose boat ferried residents TERRACE STREET STREET C A M E R O N S T R E E T Mort


Mort
to and from Sydney Town. STREET STREET T Balmain Bay Bay
Balmain
MACQUARI
TERRACE E
MACQUARIE
Turn left into Weston Street STREET STREET STREET STREET TROUTON ST
C A M E R O N S T R E E T
and walk through the Illoura y NORTH STREET NORTH STREET ROWNTREE C U R STREET STREET
SHORT T I S
Reserve for views of the city SHORT ROWNTREE C U R T I S R S T R E E T T R E E T REET
C A M P B E L L S T R E E T
S
T H A M E S S T R E E T
TROUTON STREET
and Darling Harbour. Leave the y PHILLIP PHILLIP CHURCH R O A D STREET STREET J J G A L L I M O R E Balmain
C L A Y T O N
Balmain
WATERVIEW STREET
park via William and Johnston CHURCH O A D C L A Y T O N T H A M E S S T R E E T C A M P B E L L S T R E E T 5 5 PLACE NICHOLSON STREET East East
GILCHRIST

G A L L I M O R E
GILCHRIST
PLACE
t
Streets, stopping in the latter t r e e COLLEGE COLLEGE MORT MORT C U R T I S WATERVIEW STREET DUKE STREET A V E A V E 1 1
r
C U R T I S
to view Onkaparinga 4, the DUNCAN L G AT E AV E N U E S T R E E T J J
T R E E T
NICHOLSON STREET

DUKE STREET
Colonial residence at No. 12. LLEWELL ST MONTAGUE STREET ST MONTAGUE STREET FORD ST FORD ST R O A D R O A D DUNCAN C O L G AT E AV E N U E C O O P E R S T C O O P E R S T THE AVE THE AVE STACK ST S 3 3 2 2
LLEWELLYNYN
D A R L I N G
STACK ST
When building started in 1860, D A R L I N G w w STREET STREET 0 0 D A R L I N G PAUL STREET WESTON WESTON
PAUL STREET
C O
D A R L I N G
4
mussel shells from Aboriginal S T R E E T D AT C H E T T UNION ST UNION ST 4 PEARSON ST ST ST
PEARSON ST
S T R E E T
feasts stood in mounds upon GLADSTONE q GLADSTONE STREET ADOLPHUS ADOLPHUS WALLACE ST S T R E E T JUBILEE PLACE D AT C H E T T S T R E E T JOHNSTON ST JOHNSTON ST
GLADSTONE
q GLADSTONE STREET
EWENTON
the harbour foreshore beyond. PARK PARK WALLACE ST EWENTON PARK HOSKING ST
PARK
Turn left onto Darling Street 8 8 EWENTON S T R E E T 6 6 J HOSKING ST WILLIAM STREET EDWARD ST
then right into Duke Street. STEPHEN STREET STEPHEN STREET 9 STREET 9 STREET EWENTON
JUBILEE PLACE S T R E E T
J
WILLIAM STREET EDWARD ST
Gilchrist Place then leads down 7 7 Peacock
J
J
Peacock
to Mort Bay Reserve 5. Ships’ G R A F T O N S T R E E T Point Point
G R A F T O N S T R E E T
propellers stand as monuments
to the area’s working past.
A path leads up to The Avenue’s
timber workers’ cottages.
Back on Darling Street, turn
left down Killeen Street. Take
the path across Ewenton Park
to Ewenton 6 (c.1854). Past the The domestic grandeur of Louisa Road
144-145_EW_Sydney.indd 144 29/05/17 12:19 pm

FOUR GUIDED W ALKS  145


Historic Links
Sydney’s oldest extant lock­up,
The Watch House (1854) 0 at
No. 179 Darling Street, has been
restored, and is open for visits on
Saturday afternoons. Further
along, enjoy a drink at The
London Hotel (1870) q, formerly
a corner store and one of the
oldest pubs in Sydney.
After the roundabout, visit
St Andrew’s Church w before
losing yourself to the bookshops,
cafés and delicatessens of Balmain.
Yurulbin
Yurulbin Every Saturday, Balmain Market The city and Sydney Harbour Bridge seen from Snails Bay
Point Point
p p Birchgr fills the churchyard (see
Birchgroveove
p203). At the shops’ far Balmain to Birchgrove the homes that follow: a tiny
end, the Victorian Post Retrace your steps to Rowntree porch, Victorian entrance
R O A D R O A D J J Office (1887) e and neigh­ Street. Turn left and wander tiles, ornate iron lace – plus
L O U I S A bour ing Court House r reflect down to Birchgrove (about occa sional glimpses of water
L O U I S A
frontage and private moorings.
1880s Sydney’s prosperity. The
10 minutes’ walk). From Birch­
Town Hall t dome was removed grove shops u, take Cameron At the road’s end, the reserve
Snails
Snails during World War II for fear of air Street left and Grove Street right, at Yurulbin Point p marks the
Bay Bay raids. Across the street is the Fire to Birchgrove Park i and mouth of Parramatta River.
Station y (1894). Set on the Snails Bay. Walk down Rose A fishing nook on its eastern
BIRCHGROVE
BIRCHGROVE
o o PARK PARK crest of a hill, its horse­drawn Street to Louisa Road. Two of cor ner is a perfect vantage point
vehicles always travelled down­ the most notable homes are for taking in the city skyline
i
i
G R O V E S T R E E T
THE T E R R AC E T R E E T W H A R F R O A D hill on their outward journey. Nos. 12 and 14, Keba (1878) and passing harbour traffic.
and Vidette (1876) o, where
THE T E R R AC E
FERDINAND ST
STREET STREET FERDINAND ST R O S E S T R E E T G R O V E S deep verandas and iron­lace
W H A R F R O A D
balconies hint at Colonial
RIVER RIVER COVE STREET ROWNTREE STREET B A L L A S T Y E E N D W H A R F R O A D opulence. A poem in
R O S E S T R E E T
ROWNTREE STREET
W H A R F R O A D
praise of the nearby park
COVE STREET
BAY S
BAY S
P O I N T
B A L L A S T P O I N T
u O R T S T R E E T
M C K E L L S T R E E T
M C K E L L S T R E E T
is inscribed on a plaque
G I P P S S T R E E T TREET
Y E E N D
B I R C H G R O V E R O A D
R O A D
R O A D
T H O M A S S T R E E T
T H O M A S S T R E E T
S T R E E T
GOW STREET B I R C H G R O V E R O A D G I P P S S T R E E T TREET BAY STREET S H O R T S T R E E T S T R E E T Balmain War at Keba’s entrance. Amid
GOW STREET
Vidette’s formal greenery,
u
BAY STREET
S H
S P R I N G
S P R I N G
a deep well is still fed by
Memorial
MORT BAY
MORT BAY
STREET STREET STREET T S T R E E T C A M E R O N S T R E E T PARK PARK Balmain Mort a natural spring. u Shops nestled in the quiet
There is a
STREET
S T R E E


Mort
wealth of
Birchgrove village
Balmain
MACQUARI
STREET
STREET
TERRACE
Bay
Bay
TERRACE E
MACQUARIE
y NORTH STREET NORTH STREET ROWNTREE C U R SHORT T I S R STREET STREET STREET S T R E E T TROUTON STREET interest in Tips for Walkers
C A M E R O N S T R E E T
STREET
SHORT
ROWNTREE C U R T I S

TROUTON ST




T R E E T REET
C A M P B E L L S T R E E T
T H A M E S S T R E E T
S
y PHILLIP PHILLIP CHURCH CHURCH O A D R O A D STREET STREET C L A Y T O N T H A M E S S T R E E T J J G A L L I M O R E Balmain Starting point: Balmain East
C L A Y T O N
Balmain
WATERVIEW STREET
East
East
G A L L I M O R E
GILCHRIST
GILCHRIST

PLACE
t
t r e e COLLEGE COLLEGE MORT MORT C U R T I S C A M P B E L L S T R E E T WATERVIEW STREET 5 5 PLACE DUKE STREET NICHOLSON STREET A V E A V E 1 J J Wharf, end of Darling Street.
DUNCAN L G AT E AV E N U E
Length: 5.5 km (3 ⁄2 miles).
1
r
1
MONTAGUE STREET MONTAGUE STREET D A R L I N G w R O A D R O A D STREET STREET 0 0 D A R L I N G PAUL STREET ST WESTON WESTON Street’s Balmain East Wharf. The
C U R T I S
Getting there: Ferries regularly
T R E E T
NICHOLSON STREET

S
DUKE STREET
LLEWELLYNYN
LLEWELL ST ST FORD ST FORD ST C O L G AT E AV E N U E C O O P E R S T C O O P E R S T THE AVE THE AVE STACK ST S T R E E T 3 3 2 2 leave Circular Quay for Darling
D A R L I N G
STACK ST
w
PAUL STREET
C O
DUNCAN
D A R L I N G
442 bus from the Queen Victoria
4
ST
PEARSON ST
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
GLADSTONE
GLADSTONE q GLADSTONE STREET WALLACE ST S T R E E T JUBILEE PLACE D AT C H E T T D AT C H E T T S T R E E T UNION ST JOHNSTON ST JOHNSTON ST 4 PEARSON ST Build ing stops in Darling Street. To
q GLADSTONE STREET
UNION ST
EWENTON
PARK PARK ADOLPHUS ADOLPHUS EWENTON return, there is a 15­minute ferry
WALLACE ST PARK PARK JUBILEE PLACE S T R E E T HOSKING ST
EWENTON grove (pick up a schedule at Circular
8 8 EWENTON S T R E E T 6 6 J HOSKING ST WILLIAM STREET EDWARD ST ride at hourly intervals from Birch­

J
WILLIAM STREET EDWARD ST
7
7
Quay). Alternatively, take Bus 441
9 STREET
9 STREET
J
J
Peacock
Peacock from Grove Street (Snails Bay)
G R A F T O N S T R E E T
G R A F T O N S T R E E T Point Point
back to the city (weekdays only).
STEPHEN STREET
STEPHEN STREET
Stopping-off points: Darling
Street, in particular, has many
good delicatessens, patisseries,
restaurants and cafés. Places to
picnic include Mort Bay Reserve,
0 metres 250 Key Gladstone Park, Birchgrove Park
and Yurulbin Point.
0 yards 250 Walk route
For keys to symbols see back flap
144-145_EW_Sydney.indd 145 29/05/17 12:19 pm

146  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

A Two-Hour Walk from Bondi Beach to Clovelly

This invigorating oceanside and clifftop walk explores the AVE N UE AVE N UE R O A D R O A D
beautiful shoreline and surfing beaches of eastern Sydney.
STREET A V E N U E
G O U L D S T R E E T
WAIROA
The local colour along this scenic trail is at its most vibrant CURLEWIS A V E N U E W A R N E R S A V E N U E
at weekends, when people flock to the cafés and beaches. CURLEWIS WAIROA B R I G H T O N H A S T I N G S M I L I T A R Y M I L I T A R Y
H A S T I N G S
W A R N E R S A V E N U E
The Victorian cemetery at the walk’s end bears witness to STREET G O U L D S T R E E T
B R I G H T O N
G L E N A Y R
Sydney’s multicultural heritage. G L E N A Y R


bush-fringed beach. Turn right, 2 2 4 RAMSGATE B OU L E V P A R A D E P A R A D E

3
3
crossing the road in front of the H A L L S T R E E T PARADE PARADE 4 RAMSGATE A R D
hotel, and walk down to Queen
B OU L E V A R D
Elizabeth Drive to reach Sydney’s AVEN UE AVEN UE
H A L L S T R E E T
most famous beach, Bondi. LAMROCK AVENUE 1 1 CAMPBELL CAMPBELL Bondi Bay
Bondi Bay
Bondi’s popularity dates back Bronte’s swimming baths, a safe
LAMROCK AVENUE
to the 1880s. Although daylight alternative when the sea is rough
bathing was banned at the time,
North Bondi Ocean Pool, one of two the beach was considered a Bondi to Bronte J J
swimming pools on Bondi Beach fashionable place to stroll. Bondi Veer left off Notts Avenue F R A N C I S S T R E E T
trams came into use shortly after as the path drops down DENHAM STREET DENHAM STREET B O N D I NOTTS AVENUE 5 5
F R A N C I S S T R E E T
A Seaside Community and, by the time bathing restric- and skirts sharp rock B O N D I RO A D
RO A D
NOTTS AVENUE
Walk north along Campbell tions were lifted in 1902, the red formations, the result of years
W I L G A S T
Parade 1, passing a colourful and white trams were filled with of erosion. Take the steep W I L G A S T
array of hotels, beach goers. Just ahead you will steps to Mackenzies Point
F L E T C H E R S T R E E T
beach wear shops see Bondi Pavilion 3. Built lookout 6 on the headland. F L E T C H E R S T R E E T M A R K S
MARKS LA
M A R K S
and lively cafés that in 1928, it was designed on The magnifi cent view MARKS LA P A R K P A R K 6 J
6
give the street a a grand scale and origin- stretches for 180 degrees GAERLOCH AVE GAERLOCH AVE
J
raffish atmosphere. Turn ally housed a ballroom, from Ben Buckler in the PACI F I C AVE
PACI F I C AVE
right into Hall Street for gymnasium, restau- north to Malabar in the ASHLEY ST ASHLEY ST Mackenzies
Mackenzies
Bay
Bay
an indulgent treat at rant, café, Turkish dis tant south. 7 7
Gelato Messina. Back Statue of lifesaver near baths and open-air TAMARAMA MARINE DR Tamarama
Tamarama
on Campbell Parade, Bondi Pavilion theatre. Although less HEWLETT Bay Bay
HEWLETT
keep walking until glam orous today, the STREET
STREET
TAMARAMA MARINE DR
BRONTE MARINE DR
the Hotel Bondi 2, the parade’s complex is still a thriving local BAYV I EW ST
BAYV I EW ST
most signif icant building and community centre hosting 9 BRONTE BRONTE MARINE DR
B R O N T E
easily spotted by its pretty clock cultural events. Photographs B R O N T E Nelson
9 BRONTE
Nelson
P A R K
P A R K
tower. Opened as a first-class inside recall the romance of GARDYNE STREET 0 8 8 Bronte Beach Bronte Beach Bay Bay
GARDYNE STREET 0
hotel in 1920, it initially stood Bondi Beach in earlier times. ROAD
YA NK O
ROAD
alone by what was then a Next to the Pavilion is the YA NK O T T
home of arguably Australia’s EVANS STREET EVANS STREET A V E N U E A V E N U E E E E E
Tips for Walkers oldest surf lifesaving club, the T S R R T S
Bondi Surf Bathers 4, which MACPHERSON STREET


MACPHERSON STREET
Starting point: Campbell Parade, carried out Australia’s largest
southern end. mass rescue in 1938 on what S A A S
1
Length: 4 km (2 ⁄2 miles). became known as “Black Sunday” O M O M J J TRAFALGAR ST
TRAFALGAR ST
Getting there: Take the train to (see p139). Follow the sweep of H H q q
Bondi Junction, then Bus 380 to the beach to its southern end. T T
Bondi Beach. Bus 339 runs from Climb a flight of steps to B O U N D A R Y S T R E E T T
B O U N D A R Y S T R E E T T
Clovelly Beach to Circular Quay. continue on Notts Avenue, above A R D E N S T R E E T A R D E N S T R E E T S S
Waverley Cemetery is open Bondi Baths 5 and alongside B O U N D A
B O U N D A S T R E E T
from 8am to dusk every day. the Bondi Icebergs clubhouse. CLIFTON ROAD CLIFTON ROAD BLACKWOOD RY AVE BLACKWOOD RY S T R E E T
AVE
Stopping-off points: Public Members of the Swimming Club BURNIE STREET KEITH STREET KEITH STREET
toilets, showers and food and swim every Sunday during the SURFSIDE A AVE OCEAN STREET OCEAN STREET
SURFSIDE VE
BURNIE STREET
refreshments are available at winter regardless of the weather. EASTBOURN E AVE J J
Bondi, Tamarama and Bronte C L O V E L LY R O A D B U R R O W S
EASTBOURN E AVE B U R R O W S
Beaches. Take-away cuisine w w P A R K P A R K
C L O V E L LY R O A D
can be bought along Bondi’s MELROSE PARADE
MELROSE PARADE
Campbell Parade as the walk
begins. Tamarama’s beach café
Clovelly Bay
serves refreshing drinks. In warm Clovelly Bay
weather, make the most of four
of Sydney’s best beaches by Key
packing your swimming gear. Tamarama Surf Life Saving Club,
at the beach’s northern end Walk route
146-147_EW_Sydney.indd 146 29/05/17 12:19 pm

FOUR GUIDED W ALKS  147



AVE N UE AVE N UE R O A D R O A D
STREET A V E N U E W A R N E R S A V E N U E WAIROA B R I G H T O N H A S T I N G S M I L I T A R Y M I L I T A R Y
CURLEWIS A V E N U E
G O U L D S T R E E T
WAIROA
CURLEWIS
H A S T I N G S
W A R N E R S A V E N U E
STREET
B R I G H T O N
G L E N A Y R G L E N A Y R G O U L D S T R E E T


2 2 3 3 4 RAMSGATE B OU L E V P A R A D E P A R A D E Irish Memorial, Waverley Cemetery,

PARADE PARADE 4 RAMSGATE A R D a popular filming location
B OU L E V A R D
H A L L S T R E E T
H A L L S T R E E T
CAMPBELL CAMPBELL AVEN UE AVEN UE Bronte to Waverley
Continue down Bronte Road
1 1 Bondi Bay towards the southern end of
Bondi Bay
LAMROCK AVENUE
LAMROCK AVENUE
Bronte Beach. After passing
Resume your walk, passing Bronte’s cafés, walk through
through Marks Park into rocky
the car park and follow the
DENHAM STREET DENHAM STREET B O N D I RO A D NOTTS AVENUE 5 5 Mackenzies Bay and over the road uphill, through a cutaway
J
J
next head land and down to
originally dug for trams. As the
F R A N C I S S T R E E T
F R A N C I S S T R E E T
Tamarama Bay 7. In 1906–11,
road winds through the cutting
B O N D I RO A D
NOTTS AVENUE
this beach was the unlikely home
of Wonderland City – a rowdy and veers right, take the steps
W I L G A S T
W I L G A S T
through Calga Reserve. Walk
fun fair, boasting a roller coaster. down Trafalgar Street to the
F L E T C H E R S T R E E T Across the beach and park, Waverley Cemetery q.
F L E T C H E R S T R E E T
MARKS LA
MARKS LA M A R K S 6 J J climb the steps to Tamarama In grand displays of Edward ian
M A R K S
P A R K
P A R K
6
GAERLOCH AVE GAERLOCH AVE Marine Drive. Follow the road and Victorian monumental
masonry, English, Italian and Irish
around to the slopes of Bronte
ASHLEY ST ASHLEY ST PACI F I C AVE Mackenzies Park 8, once part of Bronte residents have been laid to rest.
PACI F I C AVE
Mackenzies
Bay
Bay
Estate. To explore Bronte Gully 9, Among notable Aust ralians buried
7
7
and glimpse Bronte House 0, here are writers Henry Lawson
Tamarama
Tamarama
Bay Bay continue away from the beach. and Dorothea Mackellar; Fanny
HEWLETT
HEWLETT
Take the track that follows the Durack, the first woman to win an
STREET
STREET
TAMARAMA MARINE DR
TAMARAMA MARINE DR
BRONTE MARINE DR creek into a valley, passing under Olympic gold medal (in 1912), and
BRONTE MARINE DR
BAYV I EW ST
BAYV I EW ST
do the Australian crawl swimming
a canopy of fig and flame trees.
B R O N T E
B R O N T E The water fall was once a natural stroke; and aeronautical pio neer
9 BRONTE
9 BRONTE
Nelson
Beach
P A R K P A R K Nelson
GARDYNE STREET 0 Bronte Beach Bronte Bay Bay
GARDYNE STREET 0 8 8 feature of the ornamental gar dens Lawrence Hargrave.
designed for Bronte Estate.
The Irish Memorial honours
EVANS STREET YA NK O YA NK O A V E N U E A V E N U E E R T E T E E R ROAD The steps on your left lead to the 1798 Irish Rebellion and
EVANS STREET
ROAD
its leader Michael Dwyer, who
Bronte Road and Bronte House.
S T T S The mixture of Gothic and Swiss was transported to Australia
styling was the in spiration of for his part in the uprising.
MACPHERSON STREET
MACPHERSON STREET

the original owner, architect Leave the cemetery at the
S S
A M O H H A O M J J TRAFALGAR ST Mortimer Lewis (see p123). southern end. Walk through
A R D E N S T R E E T A R D E N S T R E E T CLIFTON ROAD CLIFTON ROAD S S B O U N D A BLACKWOOD RY AVE BLACKWOOD R Y S T R E E T
Today it is owned by the
TRAFALGAR ST
Burrows Park, hugging the
coast, to Eastbourne Avenue,
municipal council and is
at the narrow Clovelly Beach w.
with an annual open day.
B O U N D A R Y S T R E E T T T T q q leased as a private residence, which leads to the walk’s end
B O U N D A R Y S T R E E T T
B O U N D A S T R E E T
KEITH STREET
KEITH STREET
OCEAN STREET
OCEAN STREET
AVE
SURFSIDE
SURFSIDE VE
A
AVE
BURNIE STREET
BURNIE STREET
EASTBOURN E AVE B U R R O W S
B U R R O W S J J
EASTBOURN E AVE
w w P A R K P A R K
C L O V E L LY R O A D
C L O V E L LY R O A D
MELROSE PARADE
MELROSE PARADE
Clovelly Bay
Clovelly Bay
0 metres 500
0 yards 500 6 Lookout at Mackenzies Point, a popular spot for watching surfers
For keys to symbols see back flap
146-147_EW_Sydney.indd 147 29/05/17 12:19 pm

148  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

A Three-Hour Walk Around Manly

This walk takes in the holiday atmosphere of downtown
Manly and its splendid surf beach, before passing along
quieter shorelines and clifftop streets, and through unspoilt
bushland replete with native flora and fauna. It features
marvellous views, the commanding architecture of the
historic building that was formerly St Patrick’s Sem inary,
and the charm of Collins Beach and Fairy Bower.
Houses rising above Fairy Bower

Revival Style. In 1926, it replaced Bower, passing by homes of
the original New Brighton, built in diverse architectural styles,
1880 as the resort’s first attraction. from Spanish Mission to Neo­
Head towards the rolling surf Georgian. Turn left into College
and sweeping sands of Manly Street, then right into
Beach 3 then continue south Reddall Street, and 2 2
T H E C O R S O
3
along the promenade. From the left again into SOU TH STEYNE 3
1950s­style Surf Pavilion, follow Addison Road. T H E C O R S O
W E N T W O RT H S T R E E T
Marine Parade walkway around Opposite
SOU TH STEYNE
to Cabbage Tree Bay. The pretty W E N T W O RT H S T R E E T
area around the rock pool 1 1
V I C T O R I A PA R A D E
Cabbage
was named Fairy Bower 4 Cabbage
ASHBURNER STREET
Tree Bayy
Brass band plays in The Corso that links for the delicate wild flowers V I C T O R I A PA R A D E Tree Ba 6 6 J
J
the harbour cove to the ocean beach and maidenhair ferns that ASHBURNER STREET REDDALL STREET 4 4 5 5
C L I F F S T R E E T
once grew on the hill­ Manly Wharf C L I F F S T R E E T
Manly Wharf
REDDALL STREET
DARLEY ROAD ADDISON ROAD
From Harbour to Ocean side. Beyond the rock Manly DARLEY ROAD B O W E R S T R E E T
Manly
Start at Manly Wharf 1. This pool, continue on the Cove ADDISON ROAD STREET STREET B O W E R S T R E E T
Cove
suburb was little more than a pathway around to
COLLEGE
cosy fishing village until 1852, Shelly Beach 5, a ESPLANA D E ESPLANA D E COLLEGE
when entrepreneur Henry Gil­ secluded scuba­diving W W BOWER RD FAIRY
FAIRY
bert Smith’s vision of a resort and snorkelling spot, Detail on the New S Y D N E Y
BOWER RD
S Y D N E Y
similar to fashionable Brighton which is also an ideal Brighton Hotel R O A D R O A D O S B O R N E R O A D H I G H S T R E E T 7 7 H A R B O U R
H A R B O U R
COVE AVENUE
N AT I O N A L
in his native England started swimming spot for EAST O O D S T R E E T N AT I O N A L
P A R K
H I G H S T R E E T
to take shape. The ferry service children. The 1920s beach kiosk COVE AVENUE P A R K
O S B O R N E R O A D
MARSHALL STREET
began in 1855, operating from has been restored and converted DARLEY ROAD
A D D I S O N
EAST O O D S T R E E T
the same spot in use today. into a smart restaurant. A D D I S O N MARSHALL STREET
DARLEY ROAD
Leaving Manly Cove, cross
The Esplanade and walk down Shelly Beach to the former S T U A R T 8 8
The Corso, a pedestrian mall. At St Patrick’s Seminary 0 S T U A R T S T R E E T
the end of The Corso, to the left, Across the park, take the steps Litt Litt le le 0 S T R E E T
Manly
stands the New Brighton Hotel to your left to Shelly Beach Manly
Cove
Cove
2 in striking Egyptian Classical Headland. A path further left M A N LY S Y D N E Y R O AD R O AD
M A N LY
S Y D N E Y
P O I N T
P O I N T
loops around the headland. P E A C E 9 9 H A R B O U R
H A R B O U R
P E A C E
N AT I O N A L
Tips for Walkers Viewing platforms 6 overlook P A R K N AT I O N A L BEACH BEACH
P A R K
P A R K
the vast South Pacific Ocean. J J Litt Litt le le J J P A R K
Manly
Starting point: Manly Wharf Take the car park exit into Manly COLL I N S
COLL I N S
Point
Point
Length: 7.5 km (4 ⁄2 miles). Bower Street. Follow the road
1
Getting there: Regular ferry as it rounds high above Fairy
and Manly Fast Ferry services
depart from Circular Quay.
Stopping-off points: The wide
range of fresh food counters at
Manly Wharf make it an ideal
place to stock up on picnic
fare. Restaurants and cafés line
The Corso and Manly Beach
Promenade. The Boathouse at
Shelly Beach offers the choice
of a smart restaurant, barbecue
or snack bar. In warm weather,
come prepared with a swimsuit,
hat, towel and sunscreen.
5 The clear waters of sheltered Shelly Beach
148-149_EW_Sydney.indd 148 29/05/17 12:19 pm