(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sydney

SY DNEY A T A GLANCE  49


previous year. The grubs that plant or animal to live. There
made the track become small, is no fresh water and, unlike
brownish-grey moths and are soil, the mud has no oxygen
commonly seen in eucalypt or whatsoever below the very
gum forests. surface level. Mangroves have
Grass trees (Xanthorrhoea developed some fascinating
species), also common in open ways around these problems.
eucalypt forest, are an ancient First, excess salt is excreted
plant species with a tall spike from their leaves. Secondly,
that bears white flowers in they get oxygen to the roots by
spring. Lyrebirds, echidnas, pushing special peg-like roots,
currawongs and black snakes called pneumatophores, into
are predominant wildlife. the air. At low tide, these can be
clearly seen around the base of
most mangroves. They allow air
to diffuse down into the roots so
that they can sur vive the stifling
conditions under the mud. The The nocturnal grey-headed flying fox,
Sydney rock oyster (Saccostrea at rest during the daytime
com mercialis), a popular local
delicacy, is found in mangrove temporary colony of these in
areas, particularly around the the Botanic Gar den, where they
Hawkesbury and Botany Bay. hang upside down from trees.
Moore Park and The Domain
are good places to spot flying
City Parks
foxes and they also have won-
A large number of birds and derful specimens of Moreton
animals make the city parks their Bay and other fig species.
home. Silver gulls (Larus novae­ While paperbarks (Melaleuca
A smooth-barked apple gum in Lane Cove hollandiae) and sulphur-crested species) are a feature of
National Park cockatoos (Cacatua galerita) Cen tennial Park, a range
are frequent daytime visitors to of palms can be seen in the
Hyde Park, Centennial Park, The Botanic Garden. The superb
Wetlands
Domain and the Botanic Garden. fairy-wren (Malurus cyaneus)
More than 60 per cent of New After dark, brush-tailed can also be seen here, flitting
South Wales’ coastal wetlands possums (Trichosurus vulpecula) between shrubs, while over-
have been lost. This makes the go in search of food and may be head honeyeaters dart after
remaining areas of wetland seen scavenging in rubbish bins. each other in the tree canopy.
especially important. Most of Also a night creature, the fruit- With more than 75,000 native
Sydney’s wetlands are mangrove eating grey-headed flying fox shrubs and trees, Barangaroo
swamps, with some of the (Pteropus poliocephalus) can be Reserve is a harbour park on
best-preserved examples seen swoop ing through the re-created naturalistic headland
at Bicentennial Park and trees. There is sometimes a and is frequented by many birds.
the North Arm Walking Track.
Mangrove swamps are one of
the most hostile places for a Strangler Figs
The majestic figs in the city parks hide a dark secret. While most of
the Moreton Bay figs (Ficus macrophylla) you see have been grown
by gardeners long past, in the
wild these trees have a different
origin. They start as a tiny
seedling, sprouted from
a seed dropped by a bird
in the fork of a tree. Over
decades, the pencil-thin
roots grow downwards.
Once they reach the
ground, new roots are sent
down, forming a lacy network
around the trunk of the host tree.
They eventually become an iron-hard
cage around the host tree’s trunk so
that it dies and rots away, leaving The Moreton Bay fig, with its
A grey mangrove swamp near the Lane the fig with a hollow trunk. massive spreading canopy
Cove National Park




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50  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

SYDNEY THROUGH THE YEAR

Sydney’s temperate climate allows for the little to mark their changeover. Balmy nights,
enjoyment of outdoor activities through out the sweet, pervasive scent of jasmine
the year. Seasons in Sydney are the opposite blossom and the colourful blooming of
of those in the northern hemisphere. shrubs and flowers are typical of spring.
September ushers in the three months of Summer caters for sun- and surf-lovers
spring; summer stretches from December as well as being Sydney’s festival season.
to February; March, April and May are the Autumn, with warm days and cooler nights,
autumn months; while the shorter days and is often perfect for bushwalks and picnics.
falling temperatures of June announce the And the crisp days of winter are ideal for
onset of winter. In reality, however, Sydney historic walks and exploring art galleries
seasons often merge into one another with and museums.


Spring
With the warmer weather, the
profusion of spring flowers brings
the city’s parks and gardens excit-
ingly to life. Food, art and music
festivals abound. Foot ballers
finish their seasons with action-
packed grand finals, profes sional
and backyard cricketers warm
up for their summer competitions
and the horse-racing fraternity
gets ready to place its bets.
September
David Jones Spring Flower Show
(first two weeks), Elizabeth Street
department store. Breathtaking
floral artwork on the ground floor. Spring display of tulip beds at the Leura Garden Festival
Festival of Dangerous Ideas (first
weekend), Sydney Opera House. week festival of open gardens, A village fair launches the
Talks and debates featuring talks and 100,000 tulips in bloom. festival, when magnificent
leading thinkers and culture Spring Racing Carnival (Sep–Oct). private gardens featuring
creators from around the world. The horse-racing action is shared flower displays may be viewed.
Blackmores Sydney Running between Rosehill race course and Bathurst 1000 (second Sun),
Festival (3rd Sun). Four running the Royal Randwick racecourse. Mount Panorama Circuit,
events catering to all ages and Festival of the Winds (dates vary), Bathurst. The premier
fitness levels. Bondi Beach (see p139). Multi- endurance event on Australia’s
Primavera (Sep–mid-Nov). Highly cultural kite-flying festival. motor-sport calendar.
regarded talent-spotting show Sculpture by the Sea (late
at the Museum of Contemporary October Oct–early Nov), Bondi Beach.
Art (see p75). Good Food Month (all month). Amazing sculptures line
Tulip Time Bowral (late Sep–early Food events across the city, the sand and path between
Oct), Bowral (see p164). A two- highlighted by Night Noodle Bondi and Tamarama beaches.
Markets in Hyde Park.
Australian Rugby League November
Grand Final (first Sun), Melbourne Cup Day (first Tue).
ANZ Stadium, Homebush. Sydney tunes in to Australia’s
Manly International Jazz most popular horse race, held
Festival (Labour Day week end). mid-afternoon in Melbourne.
World-class jazz at a variety of Restaurants and hotels offer
venues (see p135). special luncheons on the day.
Kidtopia (early Oct), Parramatta Sydney to the Gong Bicycle
Park. Three days of family fun, Ride (first Sun). From Moore
music and food. Park to Wollongong. Over
Kite-flying on Bondi Beach at the Festival Leura Garden Festival (early Oct), 10,000 cyclists of all standards
of the Winds Blue Mountains (see pp162–3). do this 92-km (57-mile) ride.




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SY DNEY THROUGH THE Y EAR  51


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Hours
A sunny climate is
Hours Hours one of Sydney’s main
10 10 attractions. There are
very few days with no
8 8
sunshine at all, even
6 6 in the middle of winter.
An up-to-date weather
4 4 forecast is available
by telephoning 1196.
2 2 Coastal weather condi-
tions can be obtained
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec by dialling 11541.
performance of opera competitors in the Tall Ships
Summer highlights by Opera Australia. Race held on the same day.
Sydney turns festive in the Symphony in The Domain Australia Day Concert (26 Jan).
summer. Christmas pageants and (one Sat), The Domain (see p109). Music concerts take place
open-air carol singing in The Free concert by the Sydney all over the city to celebrate
Domain mark the start of the Symphony Orchestra. this national holiday.
season. Then there is the Sydney Cricket Test matches and Chinese New Year (late Jan or
Festival, three weeks of cultural one-day internationals at early Feb). Lion dancing, fireworks
events and other popular enter- Syd ney Cricket Ground (see p54). and other festivities in Chinatown
tain ment, culmi nating in Australia Flickerfest (early–mid-Jan), Bondi (see pp100–101), Darling
Day and the Yabun Festival Pavilion (see pp146). Festival Harbour and Cabramatta (p44).
celebra tions on 26 January. of Australian and
Summer, too, brings a feast international short February
for sport lovers, with surfing films and animation. Sydney Gay and Lesbian
and life-saving events, yacht Sydney Festival (three Mardi Gras, various inner-
races and both domestic and weeks). Fantastic city venues (see p32). A
international cricket matches. music, theatre and month of events culmi-
art events are staged. nating in a street parade,
Apia Sydney Inter­ mainly on Oxford Street,
national (mid-Jan), usually running from
Olympic Park Tennis late Feb or early March.
Centre. Week-long North Bondi Classic
tennis tournament Chinese New Ocean Swim (one Sun
attracting some of the Year lion in early Feb), North Bondi
top players in the world. (see p139). A popular
Yabun Festival (26 Jan), 2-km (1½-mile) race that any
Victoria Park. Australia’s largest swimmer is eligible to enter.
Surfing “Santa Claus”: Christmas Day celebration of indigenous Coogee Surf Carnival (first
celebrations on Bondi Beach cultures features traditional weekend), Coogee (see p57).
performances, music and talks. Tropfest (second Sun), Parramatta
December Ferrython (26 Jan), Sydney Park. Outdoor screenings of
Carols in The Domain (second Harbour. Ferries compete for the competition finalists in
Sat before Christmas). Carols by line honours, as do rigged this popular short-film festival.
candlelight in the parkland of
the city’s favourite outdoor
gathering spot (see p109).
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race
(26 Dec). The harbour teems
with small craft as they escort
racing yachts out to sea for
the start of their journey.
New Year’s Eve (31 Dec). Street
parties in The Rocks and Circular
Quay and fireworks displays
in Sydney Harbour.
January
Opera in The Domain (one Sat),
The Domain (see p109). A free Australia Day Tall Ships Race in Sydney Harbour




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52  INTRODUCING SY DNEY


Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart
Autumn is Sydney’s
mm Inches rainiest season, with
300 12 March being the
240 wettest month, while
9 spring is the driest
180 time of year. Rainfall,
6 however, can often be
120 unpredictable. Long
3 stretches of sunny
60 weather are common,
but so, too, are periods
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec of unrelenting rain.
Seniors Week (mid-Mar),
Autumn statewide. Activities and events,
After the humidity of the many of them free, including
summer, autumn brings fresh talks, exhibitions and concerts
mornings and cooler days for the state’s older citizens.
that are tailor-made for outdoor St Patrick’s Day (17 Mar, or
pursuits. There are many closest Sun). The city’s Irish pubs
sporting and cultural events – mark the day with celebrations
some of them colourful and and music, serving Irish food and,
eccentric – to tempt the visitor. sometimes, green beer (see p45).
For many, the Royal Easter Sydney Regatta (early Mar).
Show is the highlight of the One of the largest competitive
season. Anzac Day (25 April) keelboat regattas in Australia.
is a national holiday on which Autumn Racing Carnival
Australians commemorate (six weeks during Mar and Entrant in a woodchopping competition
their war dead. Apr). Sydney’s premier at the Easter Show
horse racing event,
March held at Randwick race- sheep dog trials, craft displays
Dragon Boat Races course, with millions of and sideshow alley attractions.
Festival (late Feb–early dollars in prize money
Mar), Darling Harbour up for grabs. April
(see pp94–5). Brilliantly National Trust Heritage
decorated Chinese Easter Festival (dates vary). Celebration
dragon boats race Sydney Royal Easter Show of the natural and cultural
across Cockle Bay. (opens for two weeks over heritage of Sydney (see www.
ArtExpress (all month), Easter period), Olympic nsw.nationaltrust.org.au).
Art Gallery of NSW St Patrick’s Park, Homebush. Country Anzac Day (25 Apr). Dawn
(pp110–13). Exhibition of Day beer meets city for around remembrance service held
major artworks by the pick 14 days of ring events, at the Cenotaph, Martin Place
of the state’s best graduating livestock and produce judging, (see p86), with a parade by war
high school students. wood chopping competitions, veterans along George Street.
Sydney Comedy Festival (late
Apr–late May). Sketches, satire,
improv, magic and more by the
world’s best and top emerging
talent at venues across Sydney.
May
Sydney Writers’ Festival (dates
vary, one week mid-May), Pier
4/5, Hickson Road, Walsh Bay.
Australia’s finest literary cele bra-
tion, with more than 300 events
featuring Australian and inter-
national writers and publishers.
Vivid Sydney (late May–early
Jun). Sydney is transformed into
a canvas of lights, music and
Traditional decorative dragon boats on Darling Harbour’s Cockle Bay creative forums (see pp32–3).




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SY DNEY THROUGH THE Y EAR  53


Average Monthly Temperature
Temperature Chart
°C °F This chart gives the
30 90 average minimum and
maximum tem peratures
25 80
for Sydney. Spring and
20 70 autumn are generally
15 60 free of extremes, but
be prepared for sudden
10 50
cold snaps in winter
5 40 and occasional bursts
of oppressive humid
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec heat in summer.
Winter Public Holidays
Winter in Sydney can be New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
cold enough to require warm Australia Day (26 Jan)
jackets; temperatures at night Good Friday (variable)
may drop dramatically away Easter Monday (variable)
from the coast. The days are Anzac Day (25 Apr)
often clear and sometimes
surprisingly mild. Arts are a Queen’s Birthday (second Mon
in Jun)
major feature of winter. There
are lots of exhibitions and the Bank Holiday (first Mon in Aug:
only banks and some financial
Sydney Film Festival, which no institutions are closed)
film buff will want to miss.
Labour Day (first Mon in Oct)
June Australian soldiers or “Diggers” at an Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Manly Food and Wine Festival Anzac Day ceremony Boxing Day (26 Dec)
(first week end), Manly Beach
(see p135). Annual food and
wine festival plus train rides, installations to photography August
bouncy castles and more and perform ance art. Sydney International Boat
for children. Yulefest (throughout Show (early Aug), ICC Sydney
Queen’s Birthday winter), Blue Moun tains and Cockle Bay Marina, Darling
Weekend (early Jun), (see pp162–3). Hotels, Harbour (see pp94–5; www.
Darling Harbour guesthouses and some sydneyboatshow.com.au).
(see pp94–5). This long restaurants celebrate a City to Surf Race (second Sun).
weekend of cele bra- midwinter “Christmas” From the city to Bondi Beach
tions also marks the with log fires and all the (see p139). A 14-km (9-mile)
official opening of the Yuletide trimmings. community event that attracts
Australian ski season. NAIDOC (National all types, from amateurs to
Sydney Film Festival Aboriginal and Torres leading marathon runners.
(two weeks mid-Jun), The familiar logo of the Strait Islander) Week
State Theatre (see Film Festival (dates vary). Week-long
p84). The latest short cele brations to build
and feature films, as well as awareness and understanding of
retro spectives and showcases. Aboriginal culture and history.
Winter Magic Festival (week- The Rocks Aroma Festival
end closest to winter solstice), (late Jul), The Rocks (see pp66–7).
Katoomba. Celebrate the A festival celebrating ground
winter solstice with elves coffee, spices and teas.
and fairies in a street parade. Splendour in the Grass (late
Jul), Byron Bay. A weekend of
July alternative music and arts.
Biennale of Sydney (two Archibald, Wynne and
months, mid-year), various Sulman exhibitions (Jul–
venues. International festival, Sep), Art Gallery of NSW
held in even-numbered (pp110–13). Annual exhibition
years, encompassing and of competition entries for
showcasing many forms of prestigious prizes in portrait, Runners in the City to Surf Race, surging
visual art, from painting and landscape and genre painting. down William Street




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54  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

SPORTING SYDNEY

Throughout Australia sport is a way of life there is no end to the variety of sports
and Sydney is no exception. On any day you can watch. Thousands gather at
you’ll see locals on golf courses at dawn, Allianz Stadium and Sydney Cricket
running around the streets keeping fit, Ground whenever a big game is on,
or having a quick set of tennis after work. while, for those who cannot make it, sport
At weekends, during summer and winter, reigns supreme on weekend television.


There are many courses through ­
Cricket out Sydney where visitors
During the summer months, Test are welcome. These include
cricket, one­day internationals Moore Park, St Michael’s and
and the entertainment­fuelled Warringah golf courses. It
domestic Big Bash series is sensible to phone before ­
Twenty20 games are played hand for a book ing, especially
at the Sydney Cricket Ground at weekends.
(SCG). Tickets for weekday Tennis is another favoured
sessions of the Tests can often sport. Courts available for hire
be bought at the gate (check can be found all over Sydney.
online for availability of tickets Many centres also have flood­lit
on the day), although it is courts available for night time.
advisable to book well in Australia’s Wallabies playing the All Blacks Try Cooper Park or Parkland
advance (through Ticketek) in a Rugby Test Sports Centre.
for weekend sessions of Test
matches and for all the one ­ North Queensland and Auckland,
day international matches. New Zealand. Many of these
matches are held in different
areas of Sydney, although the
Rugby League and ANZ Stadium at Sydney Olympic
Rugby Union Park is by far the biggest venue.
The popularity of Rugby League Tickets for State of Origin and Test
knows no bounds here. This is matches often sell out quickly.
what people are referring to Rugby Union Test matches Playing golf at Moore Park, one of Sydney’s
when they talk about “the footy”. and provincial Super Rugby public courses
There are three major competi­ games are also very popular. For
tion levels: national, State pre mium trans­Tasman rivalry,
of Origin – which matches watch Australia’s “Wallabies” and Australian Rules Football
Queensland against New South the New Zealand All Blacks battle Although not as popular as in
Wales – and international Tests. it out for the Bledisloe Cup. Melbourne, “Aussie Rules” has
The National Rugby League a strong following in Sydney.
(NRL) competition fields teams Golf and Tennis The original local team, the
from all over Sydney as well as Sydney Swans, plays its home
Newcastle, Canberra, Melbourne, Golf enthusiasts need not do games at the Sydney Cricket
Brisbane, the Gold Coast, Far without their round of golf. Ground. A second Sydney­based
team, the Greater Western Sydney
Giants, plays at Homebush.
Rivalry between the Sydney
supporters and their Melbourne
counterparts is always strong.
Tickets can usual ly be bought
at the ground on match day.

Basketball
Basketball is a popular
spec tator and recreational sport
in the city. Sydney has male
and female teams competing
in the National Basketball
League. The men’s games, held
Aerial view showing both Allianz Stadium and Sydney Cricket Ground at the Sydney Olympic Park’s




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SPOR TING SY DNEY  55


DIRECTORY
Blue Mountains Adventure
Company
84a Bathurst Rd, Katoomba.
Tel 4782 1271. ∑ bmac.com.au
BridgeClimb
3 Cumberland St, The Rocks,
Sydney. Map 1 A3. Tel 8274 7777.
∑ bridgeclimb.com.
Centennial Park Cycles
50 Clovelly Rd, Randwick.
The Allianz Stadium at Moore Park Tel 9398 5027.
∑ cyclehire.com.au
Qudos Bank Arena, have Centennial Parklands
much of the pizzazz, colour Horse Riding Equestrian Centre
and excitement of American For a leisurely ride, head to Cnr Lang & Cook Rds, Moore Park.
basket ball. Tickets can be Centennial Park or contact
purchased from Ticketek, on the Centennial Parklands Map 6 D5. Tel 9332 2809.
the phone or on the Internet. Equestrian Centre. They will ∑ cpequestrian.com.au
give details of the five rid ing Cooper Park Tennis Courts
schools that operate in the
Cycling and park. Shelby Equestrian Centre Off Suttie Rd, Double Bay.
Inline Skating Tel 9389 3100.
conducts trail rides through
Sydney has excellent, safe Ku-ring-gai Chase National ∑ cptennis.com.au
locations for the whole family Park (see pp156–7). Megalong Australian
to go cycling. One of the most Further afield, you can Heritage Centre
frequented is Centennial Park enjoy the scenery of the Blue Megalong Valley Rd, Megalong
(see p129). You can hire bicycles Mountains (see pp162–3) on Valley. Tel 4787 8188.
and safety helmets from horseback. The Megalong ∑ megalongcc.com.au
Centennial Park Cycles. Australian Heritage Centre
Another popular pastime has rides lasting from one hour Moore Park Golf Club
in summer is inline skating, to overnight. All levels of Cnr Cleveland St & Anzac Parade,
and skaters can often be seen experience are catered for. Moore Park. Map 5 B5.
on the paths of the city’s parks Tel 9663 1064.
as well as on the streets. ∑ mooreparkgolf.com.au
Rollerblading.com.au runs
tours starting at Milsons Point Parkland Sports
to all parts of Sydney. If you’re Cnr Anzac Parade & Lang Rd,
unsteady, they also do group Moore Park. Tel 9662 7033.
and private lessons. ∑ centennialparklands.com.
For those who like to keep au/sports
both feet firmly on the ground,
you can watch skateboarders Horse riding in one of the parks Rollerblading.com.au
and inline skaters practising surrounding the city centre Tel 0411 872 022.
their moves at the ramps at
Bondi Beach (see p139). St Michael’s Golf Club
Adventure Sports Jennifer St, Little Bay.
You can participate in guided Tel 9326 8009.
bushwalking, mountain biking, ∑ stmichaelsgolf.com.au
canyoning, rock climbing Shelby Equestrian Centre
and abseiling expe ditions in 90 Booralie Rd, Terrey Hills.
the nearby Blue Mountains
National Park. The Blue Tel 9450 1745.
Mountains Adventure ∑ shelbyec.com.au
Company runs one-day or Ticketek
multi-day courses and trips for Tel 132849. ∑ ticketek.com.au
all standards of adventurer.
In the city, BridgeClimb Warringah Golf Club
offers 2½- and 3½-hour guided 397 Condamine St, North Manly.
Inline skaters enjoying a summer evening climbs to the summit of Sydney Tel 9905 1326.
on the city’s streets Harbour Bridge (see p73).




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56  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney’s Beaches

As Sydney is a city built around the water, it is no wonder that
many of its recreational activities involve the sand, sea and sun.
There are many harbour and surf beaches in Sydney, most of
them accessible by bus (see p236). Even if you’re not a swimmer,
the beaches offer a chance to just relax and enjoy the fresh air
and coastal way of life.
A group of scuba divers preparing to enter
do not take kindly to “intruders” the water at Gordons Bay
Swimming who drop in on their waves or
Harbour beaches such as Camp leave litter on their beaches. To Scuba Diving
Cove, Shark Bay and Balmoral hire a surfboard, try Bondi Surf
Beach are generally smaller and Co on Campbell Parade, Bondi There are some excellent dive
more sheltered than the ocean Beach, or Aloha Surf on Pittwater spots around Sydney. More
beaches. The latter have surf Road, Manly. If you would like to favoured spots are Gordons Bay,
lifesavers in distinctive red and learn, try surf schools such as Shelly Beach, and Camp Cove.
yellow caps. Surf lifesaving Manly Surf School and Lets Go Pro Dive Coogee offers a
carnivals are held throughout Surfing at Bondi Beach. They also complete range of courses,
summer. Check Surf Life Saving hire out boards and wetsuits. escorted dives, introductory
NSW for a calendar of events. The dives for beginners, and hire
Beachsafe website has informa­ Windsurfing and Sailing equipment. Dive Centre
tion on facilities, weather condi­ Manly also runs courses and
tions and lifesaving services. Sydney has locations suitable introductory dives, hires out
District councils also provide for every level of windsurfer. equipment and conducts
their own lifeguards, who wear Boards can be hired from boat dives seven days a week.
blue uniforms. Rules about Balmoral Sailing School at
swimming are rigorously Balmoral Beach. Good spots DIRECTORY
enforced, so try to familiarize include Palm Beach, Narrabeen
yourself with beach signage. Lakes, La Perouse, Brighton­Le­ Balmoral Sailing School
The beaches can sometimes Sands and Kurnell Point (for Balmoral Park, The Esplanade,
become polluted, especially beginner and intermediate Mosman. Tel 9960 5344.
∑ sailingschool.com.au
after heavy rain. Find up­to­date boarders) and Long Reef Beach,
details at Beach Watch and Palm Beach and Collaroy (for the Beach Watch and Harbour
Harbour Watch Information. more experienced windsurfer). Watch Information
One of the best (though expen­ ∑ environment.nsw.gov.au/
beach
sive) ways to see the harbour
Surfing Beachsafe
is while sailing. A sailing boat,
Surfing is more a way of life than including a skipper, can be hired ∑ beachsafe.org.au
a leisure activity for some Sydney­ for the afternoon from the East Dive Centre Manly
siders. Beginners can try Bondi, Sail sailing club. If you’d like to 10 Belgrave St, Manly.
Bronte, Palm Beach or Collaroy. learn how to sail, the sailing club Tel 9977 4355.
Two of the best surf beaches has two­day courses and also ∑ divesydney.com.au
are Maroubra and Narrabeen. hires out sailing boats and motor East Sail
Bear in mind that local surfers cruisers to experienced sailors. d’Albora Marinas, New Beach Rd,
Rushcutters Bay. Tel 9327 1166.
∑ eastsail.com.au
Lets Go Surfing
128 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi.
Tel 9365 1800.
∑ letsgosurfing.com.au
Manly Surf School
North Steyne Rd, Manly.
Tel 9932 7000.
∑ manlysurfschool.com.au
Pro Dive Coogee
27 Alfreda St, Coogee. Tel 9665
6333. ∑ prodivesydney.com
Surf Life Saving NSW
Tel 9471 8000.
∑ surflifesaving.com.au
Rock baths and surf lifesaving club at Coogee Beach



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SPOR TING SY DNEY  57


Top 30 beaches
These beaches have
Broken Bay
been selected for their safe
Cowan Creek Palm Beach swimming, water sports, Swimming Pool Surfing Windsurfing Fishing Scuba Diving Picnic/Barbecue Restaurant/Café
facilities available or their
picturesque setting.
Whale Beach
The Basin Avalon ●  ●  
Balmoral ● ●  ●  ●
Avalon The Basin
Pittwater Bilgola
KU-RING-GAI CHASE Beach ● 
Bilgola Bondi Beach ●   ●  ●
Bronte ●   ●  ●
Camp Cove ●
Newport Clifton Gardens ● ●  ● 
Beach Clovelly ●  ●  ●
SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN Curl Curl ●  
● ●  ●  ●
Coogee
Dee Why
●   ●  ●

Fairy Bower
●
Fishermans Beach
 ●  ●
Freshwater ●   ● 
Narrabeen Gordons Bay  ●
Long Reef  ●  ●
Fishermans Beach Manly Beach ●  ●  ●
Long Reef Maroubra  ●  ●  ●
Narrabeen ●   
Dee Why Newport Beach ●  ●  
Obelisk Bay
Curl Curl Palm Beach ●  ●   ●
Parsley Bay ● 
Freshwater Seven Shillings Beach ● 
Manly Beach Shark Bay ●  ●
Fairy Shelly Beach ●  ●
Bower Shelly Tamarama   ●  ●
Beach Watsons Bay ● ●  ● ●
Whale Beach ●  ●   ●
Middle
Balmoral Harbour
Obelisk Bay Camp Cove
Clifton Watsons The Types of Waves
Gardens Bay Cresting waves can be
Shark Parsley Bay identified by the foam
Bay that is created as they
break from the top. These
waves are ideal for board
Seven Shillings riding and body surfing.
Beach
SYDNEY Plunging waves curl into a
Bondi Beach tube before breaking close
Tamarama to the shore. Fondly known
as “dumpers”, these waves
Bronte Beach
Key should only be tackled by
Clovelly experienced surfers.
Patrolled beach
Gordons Bay Surging waves are those
Surfboard hire that don’t appear to break.
Coogee They often travel way into
0 kilometres 3 the beach before break­
0 miles 2 ing and can easily sweep
Maroubra
a young child off its feet.

056-057_EW_Sydney.indd 57 29/05/17 12:15 pm

58  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Garden Island to Farm Cove

Sydney’s vast harbour, also named Port Jackson after a
Secretary in the British Admiralty (who promptly changed
his name), is a drowned river valley which was transformed
over millions of years. Its intricate coastal geography of
headlands and secluded bays can sometimes confound
even life long residents. This waterway was the lifeblood
of the early colony, with the maritime industry a vital
source of wealth and supply. The legacies of alter nate The city skyline developed at random.
recessions and booms can be viewed along the shoreline: The careless destruction of architectural
a representative story in a nation where an estimated history in the 1960s–70s was halted,
and towers now stand amid
70 per cent of the population cling to the coastal cities, preserved Victorian buildings.
especially along the eastern seaboard.


Two harbour beacons, known
as “wedding cakes” because
of their three tiers, are solar
powered and equipped
with a fail-safe back-up.
There are around 350
buoys and beacons
now in operation.












KEY
1 Garden Island marks a 1940s
con struction project with 12 ha 0 metres 250
(30 acres) reclaimed from the harbour.
0 yards 250
2 The barracks for the naval garrison
date from 1888.
3 Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf has
been developed as a dynamic dining
and residential complex.










Sailing on the harbour is a pastime not
exclusively reserved for the rich and elite. Mrs Macquaries Chair is a carved rock seat
Of the several hundred thousand pleasure boats (see p108) by Mrs Macquaries Road. In the early
registered, some are available for hire while days of the colony this was the site of a fruit and
others take out groups of inexperienced sailors. vegetable garden, which was farmed until 1805.




058-059_EW_Sydney.indd 58 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE CIT Y SHORELINE  59

The Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool is
a favourite bathing spot for inner-
city residents, and is named after the THE ROCKS
Sydneysider who, at the age of 16, AND CIRCULAR
QUAY
won an Olympic gold medal in 1924. BOTANIC
It was erected in 1963 on the Domain GARDEN AND
Baths’ site, which had a grandstand THE DOMAIN
for 1,700 spectators. CITY
CENTRE
KINGS CROSS AND
DARLINGHURST
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 2










Harry’s Café de Wheels, a snack van, is
a Sydney culinary institution, and has
been operating continuously since
1945. Photographs of celebrity
customers are pinned to the van.

















The Royal Botanic Garden
displays both flowering
and non-flowering plants.
Here the first trees were
planted by the new European
colonists; some of these
trees survive today.






Farm Cove has long
been a mooring place for
visiting naval vessels. The
land opposite, now
the Royal Botanic Garden,
has been continuously
cul tivated for over 200 years.




058-059_EW_Sydney.indd 59 29/05/17 12:19 pm

60  INTRODUCING SY DNEY

Sydney Cove to Walsh Bay Conservatorium
of Music
It is estimated that over 70 km (43 miles) of harbour
foreshore have been lost as a result of the massive
land reclamation pro jects carried out since the 1840s.
That the 13 islands existing when the First Fleet arrived
in 1788 have now been reduced to just eight is a
startling indication of rapid and profound geographical
transformation. Redevelopments around Circular Quay
and the Walsh Bay area from the 1980s have opened
up the waterfront for public use and enjoyment,
as has the opening in 2015 of Barangaroo Reserve,
a reclaimed six-hectare (15-acre) foreshore park
adjacent to Walsh Bay.







1857 Man
O’War Steps










The Sydney Opera House was
designed to take advantage of
its spectacular setting. The roofs Government House, a
shine during the day and seem Gothic Revival building,
to glow at night. The building can was home to the state’s
appear as a visionary land scape governors until 1996
to the pedestrian onlooker.













Harbour cruises regularly depart from The Sydney Harbour
Circular Quay, taking visitors out and about Bridge was also known as
both during the day and in the evening. the “Iron Lung” at the time
Along with the public ferries, they are a of its construction. During
great way to see the city and its waterways. the Great Depres sion it
provided on-site work for
approximately 1,400, while
0 metres 250
many more were employed
0 yards 250 in the specialist workshops.



060-061_EW_Sydney.indd 60 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE CIT Y SHORELINE  61

The Rocks, settled by convicts and
troops in 1788, is one of Sydney’s
oldest neighbourhoods. Rich in THE ROCKS
heritage, many of its old sandstone AND CIRCULAR
QUAY
buildings have been restored and
house speciality and craft shops. GARDEN AND
BOTANIC
THE DOMAIN
CITY
CENTRE
The Tank Stream, the KINGS CROSS AND
DARLINGHURST
colony’s first water supply,
now runs underground Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 2
and spills into the quay.

Cahill
Expressway




Circular Quay, originally and more accurately
known as Semi-Circular Quay, was the last and
arguably greatest convict-built structure. Tank
Stream mudflats were filled in to shape the quay,
and sandstone from The Rocks formed the sea wall.

















The Wharf Theatres reside
on a pier that took six years
to build, mostly due to the
diver sion of labour and
materials during World War I.
The theatres opened in 1984.





The wharves’ design
The wharves were included a rat-proof sea
completed in 1922. wall around the port.
This was an urgent
Imports and exports to response to the 1900
and from the city were bubonic plague
stored in these wharves outbreak, attributed to
until 1977. rats on the wharves.
View across Sydney Cove to Circular Quay



060-061_EW_Sydney.indd 61 29/05/17 12:19 pm

SYD_062-063 SYD 1079.indd 62 21/05/2015 17:08

SYDNEY AREA


BY AREA





The Rocks and Circular Quay 64–79
City Centre 80–91

Darling Harbour and Surry Hills 92–103
Botanic Garden
and The Domain 104–117
Kings Cross and Darlinghurst 118–123
Paddington 124–129

Further Afield 130–141
Four Guided Walks 142–151







































SYD_062-063 SYD 1079.indd 63 21/05/2015 17:08

The clock on the Customs House building, decorated with sea monsters and tridents
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings u Customs House p National Trust Centre
i Macquarie Place
1 Campbell’s Storehouses Churches
2 George Street Museums and Galleries 9 Garrison Church
6 Cadman’s Cottage 3 The Rocks Discovery Museum a St Philip’s Church
8 Argyle Stores 4 Susannah Place Museum Theatres and Concert Halls
0 Sydney Observatory 5 Sailors’ Home w Wharf Theatres
q Hero of Waterloo 7 Pylon Lookout r Sydney Opera House pp76–9
e Sydney Harbour Bridge pp72–3 y Justice and Police Museum
t Writers’ Walk o Museum of Contemporary Art




064-065_EW_Sydney.indd 64 29/05/17 12:15 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  65
THE ROCKS AND

CIRCULAR QUAY


Circular Quay, once known as Semi-Circular annual Vivid Sydney festival (see pp32–3),
Quay, is often referred to as the “birth place when many of the buildings are bathed in
of Australia”. It was here, in January 1788, colour for spectacular light shows. The Rocks
that the First Fleet landed its human freight area offers visitors a taste of Sydney’s past,
of convicts, soldiers and offi cials, and the but it is a far cry from the time, little more
new British col ony of New South Wales was than 100 years ago, when most inhab itants
declared. Sydney Cove became a rallying lived in rat-infested slums and gangs ruled
point whenever a ship arrived bringing its streets. Now scrubbed and polished, The
much-needed supplies from “home”. The Rocks forms part of the colour ful promenade
Quay and The Rocks remain a focal point from the Sydney Harbour Bridge to the
for New Year’s Eve revels, and during the spectacular Opera House.
Restaurants pp186–7
1 Altitude 11 The East Chinese Restaurant 20 Opera Bar
2 ARIA 12 The Glenmore 21 Pei Modern
3 The Australian Heritage Hotel 13 Ground Control Café 22 Quay
4 Bennelong 14 Heritage Belgian Beer Café 23 Saké Restaurant & Bar
5 The Bridge Room 15 Lotus Dumpling Bar 24 Tapavino
6 Cabrito Coffee Traders 16 MCA Café 25 Ventuno
7 Café Nice 17 The Morrison Bar & 26 Vintage Café
8 Café Sydney Oyster Room 27 Young Alfred
9 El Camino Cantina 18 Nelson’s Brasserie
10 The Cut Bar & Grill 19 Neptune Palace




DAWES
POINT See also Street Finder,
DAWES
POINT map 1
B R A D F I E L D H I G H W AY
HICKSON ROAD
PARK
HICKSON ROAD
L O W E R F O R T S T R E E T
T O WNS PLACE
H ICKSO N R O A D GEORGE STREET
MILLERS T THE
W I N D M I L L S
POINT ROCKS T
A R G Y L E P L A C E CUMBERLAND STREET S T R E E
A R G Y L E
S T R E T
OBSERVATORY 12 •23 E Sydney
PARK
G E O R G E Cove CIRC U LAR QUAY EAST WALKWAY
S T R E E T
ST
CIRCULAR QUAY
H I G H L A N E
H I G H S T R E E T
GLOUCESTER
TOLL C A H I L L E X P R E S S W AY
C U M B E R L A N D S T R E E T GLO UCESTER ST H A R R I N G T O N G E O R G E S T R E ET P I T T S T R E E T REIBY PLACE LOFTUS STREET STREET YOUNG PHILLIP STREET
POINT Circular M A C Q U A R I E S T R E E T
Quay
H I C K S O N
K E N T S T R E E T

R O A D
GROSVENOR ST DALLEY STREET B R I D G E S T R E E T
JENKINS STREET
LANG
PARK 0 metres 500
JAMISON STREET 0 yards 500
For keys to symbols see back flap
064-065_EW_Sydney.indd 65 29/05/17 12:15 pm

66  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: The Rocks

Named for the rugged cliffs that were once its dominant
feature, this area has played a vital role in Sydney’s
development. In 1788, the First Fleeters under Governor
Phillip’s command erected makeshift buildings here, with
the convicts’ hard labour used to establish more permanent
structures in the form of rough-hewn streets. The Argyle
Cut, a road carved through solid rock using just hammer
and chisel, took 18 years to build, beginning in 1843.
By 1900, The Rocks was overrun with disease; the street
now known as Suez Canal was once Sewer’s Canal. Today, q Hero of Waterloo
the area is still rich in Colonial Hero of Lying beneath this historic
pub is a tunnel originally
history and colour. Waterloo used for smuggling.
L OWER FOR T STREE T

TRINITY AVENUE


A R G Y L E S T R E E T
W AT S O N R O A D
U P P E R F O R T S T R E E T
B R A D F I E L D H I G H W A Y

C U M B E R L A N D S T R E E T

G L O U C E S T E R

0 . Sydney Observatory
The first European struc ture
on this prominent site was
a windmill. The present P L A Y F A I R S T R E E T
museum holds some of
the earliest astro nomical
instruments that were
H A R R I N G T O N S T R E E T A R G Y L E S T R E E T
brought to Australia.

9 Garrison Church
Columns in this church are
decorated with the insignia
of British troops stationed
here until 1870. Australia’s G E O R G E S T R E E T
first prime minister was
educated next door, at Fort
Street Public School.
Argyle Cut
Suez Canal


o . Museum of
Contemporary Art
The Classical façade belies the
contemporary nature of the Walkway along
Australian and inter national Circular Quay West
art displayed in an ever- foreshore
changing programme.




066-067_EW_Sydney.indd 66 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  67

3 The Rocks
Discovery Museum
Key episodes in
The Rocks’ history
are illustrated by this
museum’s col lection
of maritime images THE ROCKS AND BOTANIC
and other artifacts. CIRCULAR QUAY GARDEN
AND THE
DOMAIN
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 1





L OWER FOR T STREE T

B R A D F I E L D H I G H W A Y




T The Rocks Market is a hive
E
E of activity every weekend,
R offering an eclectic range
T
S of craft items and jewellery
W A L K N utilizing Australian icons
O S from gum leaves to koalas.
G L O U C E S T E R T R E E T H I C K
P L A Y F A I R S T R E E T G E O R G E S







C I R C U L A R Q U A Y W E S T Coxswain’s Barracks with his family. His
6 . Cadman’s Cottage
John Cadman, government coxswain,
resided in what was known as the
A R G Y L E S T R E E T
G E O R G E S T R E E T figure, believed to be the first woman
wife Elizabeth was also a significant
to vote in New South Wales,
a right that she insisted on.







The Overseas
Passenger Terminal 0 metres 100
is where some of the 0 yards 100
world’s luxury cruise
liners berth during Key
their stay in Sydney. Suggested route




066-067_EW_Sydney.indd 67 29/05/17 12:19 pm

68  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

1 Campbell’s 2 George Street
Storehouses the 1950s, began its life as the
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer. Maritime Services Board’s
7–27 Circular Quay West; The Rocks.  Circular Quay. administration offices.
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, In the early 1970s, union
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St. Formerly the preserve of wealthy workers placed “green bans” on
 Circular Quay. 7 merchants, sailors and the city’s the demolition of The Rocks
working class, George Street (see p32). These streets had been
In 1798, the Scottish merchant today is a popular attraction con sidered slum areas by the
Robert Campbell sailed into with visitors to Sydney, who government of the day. However,
Sydney Cove and soon are drawn to its restaurants, many of the buildings in George
established himself as a art galleries, museums, jewellery Street were restored and are now
founding father of commerce stores and craft souvenir shops. listed by the National Trust. The
for the new colony. With trade One of Sydney’s original Rocks remains a vibrant part of
links already established in thoroughfares – some say the city, with George Street at its
Calcutta, his business blossomed. Australia’s first street – it ran hub. A market is held here every
In 1839, Campbell began from the main water supply, weekend, when part of the street
constructing a private wharf the Tank Stream, to the tiny is closed off to traffic (see p203).
and stores to house the tea, community in the Rocks, and A new Light Rail line running
sugar, spirits and cloth that he was known as Spring Street. In the length of George Street is
imported from India. Twelve 1810, it was renamed in honour due to open in 2019, aimed at
sandstone bays had been of George III. George Street reducing traffic and returning
built by 1861 and a brick upper today runs from the Harbour the street to its glory days as a
storey was added in about 1890. Bridge to the Central Railway grand pedestrian thoroughfare.
Part of the old sea wall and 11 Station north of Chinatown.
of the original stores still remain. Many 19th-century buildings
The area soon took on the remain, such as the 1844 3 The Rocks
name of Campbell’s Cove, Counting House at No. 43, the Discovery Museum
which it retains to this day. Old Police station at No. 127
Today, the bond stores contain (1882), and the Russell Hotel 2–6 Kendall Lane, The Rocks.
several harbourside restaurants at No. 143 (1887). Map 1 B2. Tel 9240 8680. @ Sydney
catering for a range of tastes, But it is The Rocks end that Explorer, Circular Quay routes from
from contemporary to Chinese most reflects what the early Elizabeth St.  Circular Quay. Open
10am–5pm daily. Closed Good Fri, 25
and Italian. It is a delightful area colony must have looked Dec. ∑ therocks.com
in which to relax with a meal like, characterized by cobbled
and watch the bustling boats pave ments, narrow side streets, This museum is in a restored
in the harbour go by. The warehouses, bond stores, pubs 1850s sandstone coach house,
pulleys that were used to raise and shop fronts that reflect the and has exhibitions on the
cargo from the wharf can still area’s maritime history. Even history of The Rocks, including
be seen on the outside, near the Museum of Contemporary displays on its first Aboriginal
the top of the building. Art (see p75), constructed during inhabitants, the Cadigal people,























Umbrellas shade the terrace restaurants overlooking the waterfront at Campbell’s Storehouses




068-069_EW_Sydney.indd 68 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  69


The Rocks (see p32), temporar ily
halting all demolition and
redevelopment work.

5 Sailors’ Home
106 George St, The Rocks.
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer,
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St.
 Circular Quay. Open to gallery
customers only: 9am–7pm daily (to
10pm Thu–Sat; to 8.30pm Sun).
Built in 1864 to provide cheap
lodgings for visiting seamen, the
Sailors’ Home is now used as an
art gallery. The building’s original
north wing is Romanesque
Revival in design. The L-shaped
wing that fronts onto George
Street was added in 1926.
At the time it was built, the
Sailors’ Home was a welcome
Old-style Australian products at the corner shop, Susannah Place alternative to the many seedy
inns and brothels in the area,
and Sydney’s maritime history domestic history, evoking the saving sailors from the perils
and traditions in the 18th and living conditions of its inhabi- of “crimping”. “Crimps” would
19th centuries. tants. Rather than re-creating tempt newly arrived men into
A unique collection of a single period, the museum lodgings and bars providing
arch aeological artifacts, such retains the many renovations much-sought-after entertain-
as an illegal alcohol still, and made by successive tenants. ment. While drunk, the sailors
hist orical images dating from Built for Edward and Mary would be sold on to departing
the early establishment of the Riley, who arrived from Ireland ships, waking miles out at sea
European colony to the postwar with their niece Susannah in and returning home in debt.
era, helps visitors explore 1838, these solid houses have Sailors used the home until
the eventful and basement kitchens 1980, when it was adapted
colourful history and back yard for use as a puppet theatre.
of this neighbour- outhouses. The house is now home to
hood. The displays Connections to the Billich Gallery, a privately
are enhanced by piped water and owned art gallery exhibiting
interactive high- sewerage had the art of controversial Sydney-
tech touch screens Billy Tea on sale at the Susannah probably arrived based Surrealist painter
and audiovisual Place shop by the mid-1850s. Charles Billich, whose work
exhibits, bringing The museum sur- also hangs in the Vatican and
the history of the area alive. veys the houses’ development the United Nations.
over the years, from wood and
coal to gas and electricity,
4 Susannah Place which enables the visitor to
Museum gauge the gradual lightening of
the burden of domestic labour.
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. The terrace, including a
Map 1 B2. Tel 9241 1893. cor ner grocer’s shop, escaped
@ Sydney Explorer, Circular Quay the wholesale demolitions that
routes from Elizabeth St.  Circular occurred after the outbreak
Quay, Wynyard. Open 2–5pm daily. of bubonic plague in 1900, as
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 8
∑ sydneylivingmuseums.com.au well as later clearings of land
to make way for the Sydney
This 1844 terrace of four brick Harbour Bridge and the Cahill
and sandstone houses has Expressway. In the 1970s, it was
a rare history of continuous saved once again when the
domestic occupancy from the Builders Labourers’ Feder ation,
1840s right through to 1990. under the leadership of activist
The museum now housed here Jack Mundey, imposed a Interior of the Sailors’ Home, viewed from
examines this working-class con servation “green ban” on an upper level




068-069_EW_Sydney.indd 69 29/05/17 12:19 pm

70  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

8 Argyle Stores
12–20 Argyle St, The Rocks. Map 1 B2.
@ Sydney Explorer, Circular Quay
routes from Elizabeth St.  Circular
Quay. Open 10am–6pm daily.
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. 7
The Argyle Stores consists of
a number of warehouses set
around a cobbled courtyard.
They have been converted
into a retail complex of mostly
accessories and fashion shops
that retains its period character.
Built between 1826 and the
1880s, the stores held imported
goods such as spirits. All goods
forfeited for the non-payment
Façade of Cadman’s Cottage, the oldest extant building in the city of duties were auctioned in the
courtyard. The oldest store was
6 Cadman’s Now, as a result of successive built for Captain John Piper, but
Cottage land reclamations such as the it was confiscated and sold after
filling in of Circular Quay in the his arrest for embezzlement.
110 George St, The Rocks. Map 1 B2. 1870s, it is set well back from
Tel 9247 5033. @ Sydney Explorer, the waterfront.
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St.
 Circular Quay. Closed to the
public. 7 Pylon Lookout
Dwarfed by the adjacent Sailors’ South-east pylon, Sydney Harbour
Home, of which it was once Bridge. Map 1 B1. Tel 9240 1100.
part, this small historic site is @ Sydney Explorer, Circular Quay
no longer open to the public, routes from Elizabeth St, 311.
though it is possible to walk  Circular Quay. Open 10am– The Argyle Centre, as seen from the
around the outside of it. Built in 5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec. 8 cobbled courtyard
1816 to house the crews of the ∑ pylonlookout.com.au
governor’s boats, it is Sydney’s
oldest surviving dwelling. This site not only offers visitors 9 Garrison Church
The cottage is named after one of the best views of Sydney Cnr Argyle and Lower Fort Sts, Millers
John Cadman, a convict who from the top, but it also houses Point. Map 1 A2. Tel 9247 1071.
was transported in 1798 for a series of exhibitions about @ 311. Open 9am–6pm daily.
stealing horses. By 1813, he was the building and history of the 5 9:30am & 4pm Sun. 7
coxswain of a timber boat and Sydney Harbour Bridge. Take ∑ churchhillanglican.com
the following year received an the time to absorb the stories
unconditional pardon. In 1821, and gaze upon the artifacts The Holy Trinity Church is known
he was granted a full pardon. Six and stained-glass memorial as the Garrison Church because
years later, he was made boat feature windows as you walk it was the colony’s first military
superintendent of government the 200 steps from the bridge’s church. Officers and men from
craft and took up resi dence pedestrian deck to the upper various British regiments, sta-
in the four-room cottage reaches of the sandstone pylon. t ioned at Dawes Point fort, came
that now bears his name.
Cadman married Elizabeth
Mortimer in 1830. She had
also arrived in Sydney as a
convict, sentenced to seven
years' transportation for the
theft of one hairbrush. The
couple, along with Elizabeth’s
two daughters, lived in the
cottage until 1846.
When Cadman’s Cottage was
built it stood on the foreshore
of Sydney Harbour. At high
tide, the water used to lap
just 2.5 m (8 ft) from the door. Sandstone pylon of Sydney Harbour Bridge, housing historic exhibits




070-071_EW_Sydney.indd 70 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  71


for morning prayers until 1870. q Hero of Waterloo
Henry Ginn designed the church 81 Lower Fort St, The Rocks.
and, in 1840, the foun dation Map 1 A2. Tel 9252 4553. @ 311.
stone was laid. In 1855, the Open 10am–11pm Mon & Tue,
architect Edmund Blacket was 10am–11:30pm Wed–Sat, 10am–
engaged to enlarge the church 10pm Sun. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec.
to accommodate up to 600 7 ground floor only.
people. These extensions, minus
the spire that Blacket proposed, This picturesque old inn is
were completed in 1878. welcoming in the winter, when
Regimental plaques, hung along its log fires and cosy ambience
interior walls, recall the church’s offer respite from the chill
military associations. outside. Built in 1844 from
Other features to look sandstone excavated
out for are the brilliantly from the Argyle Cut,
coloured east window this was a favourite The corner façade of the Hero of Waterloo
and the carved red drinking place for hotel in Millers Point
cedar pulpit. The the nearby garrison’s
window was donated soldiers. Unscrupulous at Walsh Bay, reminders of
by a devout parish­ sea captains were said the time when this was a
ioner, Dr James to use the hotel to busy part of the city’s
Mitchell, scion of a recruit. Patrons who maritime industry.
leading Sydney family. drank themselves The site fulfilled the Sydney
Display cabinets at the East window, into a stupor were Theatre Company’s need for
back of the church house Garrison Church pushed into the a base large enough to hold
a few early Australian cellars through a two theatres, rehearsal rooms
military and historical items. trapdoor. From here they were and administration offices. The
carried along under ground ingenious conversion of the
0 Sydney tunnels to the wharves nearby once­derelict heritage building
into a modern theatre complex
and onto waiting ships.
Observatory is recognized as an outstand ing
architectural achievement.
Watson Rd, Observatory Hill, w Wharf Theatres
The Rocks. Map 1 A2. Tel 9921 3485. Since then, the main theatre
@ Sydney Explorer, 311. Open 10am– Pier 4, Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay. (Wharf 1) and the smaller
5pm daily. Night viewings Mon–Sat: Map 1 A1. Tel 9250 1700. @ 324, 325. second theatre (Wharf 2)
phone to book. Closed Good Fri, Box office: Tel 9250 1777. Open 9am– have hosted many of the
25 & 26 Dec. & 7 8 ∑ maas. 7pm Mon, 9am–8:30pm Tue–Fri, company’s productions. They
museum/sydney-observatory 11am–8:30pm Sat. 7 phone in have seen premieres of plays
advance. ∑ sydneytheatre.com.au from leading Australian play­
In 1982, this domed building, See Entertainment: p210. wrights such as Michael Gow
which had been a centre for and David Williamson, as well
astronomical observation and In 1984, the then recently as international productions.
research for almost 125 years, formed Sydney Theatre At the tip of the wharf, the
became the city’s astronomy Company took possession of bright and breezy bar area
museum. It has interactive this early 20th­century finger commands superb harbour
equipment and games, along wharf at Walsh Bay. Pier 4/5 views across to the Harbour
with night­sky viewings; it is is one of four finger wharves Bridge (see pp72–3).
essential to book for these.
The building began life in
the 1850s as a time­ball tower.
At 1pm daily, the ball on top
of the tower dropped to signal
the correct time. A cannon
was fired simultaneously at
Fort Denison. This custom
continues today (see p109).
In the 1880s, some of the first
astronomical photographs of
the southern sky were taken
here. From 1890 to 1962, the
observatory mapped 750,000
stars as part of an international
project that produced an atlas
of the entire night sky. The Wharf Theatres, on a former finger wharf, jutting onto Walsh Bay




070-071_EW_Sydney.indd 71 29/05/17 12:19 pm

72  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

e Sydney Harbour Bridge

Completed in 1932, the construction of the Sydney Harbour
Bridge was an economic feat, given the depressed times,
as well as an engi neering triumph. Prior to this, the only
links between the city centre on the south side of the
harbour and the residential north side were by ferry or
via a circuitous 20-km (12½-mile) road route with five bridge
crossings. Known as the “Coathanger”, the single-span arch
bridge was manufactured in sections and took eight years The 1932 Opening
to build, including the railway line. Loans for the total cost The ceremony was disrupted
when zealous royalist Francis
of approximately 6.25 million Australian pounds were paid de Groot rode forward and
off in 1988. Intrepid visitors can make the vertiginous climb cut the ribbon in honour, he
to its summit, with spectacular views as reward. claimed, of King and Empire.
The arch spans 503 m
(1,650 ft) and supports the
The pylons are 87 m weight of the bridge deck.
(285 ft) tall. Merely
decorative, they are
not part of the
City Centre supporting structure.







The deck, 59 m
(194 ft) above sea
level, was built Building the foundations
from the centre.



Harbour Bridge Beginning the arch
Pylon Lookout
Building the Bridge
Planted in solid sandstone, the foundations
are 12 m (39 ft) deep. The arch was built in Joining the arch
halves with steel cable restraints initially
supporting each side. Once the two
halves met, work began on the deck.

Anchoring tunnels Deck under construction
are 36 m (118 ft) long Support cables were
and dug into rock at slackened over a 12-day Temporary
each end. period, enabling both attachment plate
halves to join.

The Bridge Design
The steel arch of the bridge
supports the deck, with hinges at
either end bearing the bridge’s full
weight and spreading the load to
the foundations. The hinges allow
the structure to move as the steel
expands and contracts in response
to wind and extreme temperatures.




072-073_EW_Sydney.indd 72 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  73

BridgeClimb
Thousands of people VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
have enjoyed the
spec tacular bridge- Practical Information
top views after a 21/2- Map 1 B1. Pylon Lookout and
Museum: Tel 9240 1100. Open
or 31/2 -hour guided 10am–5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec.
tour up ladders, cat- & ∑ pylonlookout.com.au
walks and finally the ∑ bridgeclimb.com
upper arch of the
bridge (see p55). Transport
@ all routes to Circular Quay,
311. g Circular Quay.
 Cir cular Quay (City Centre),
Milsons Point (North Shore).
Over 150,000 vehicles
cross the bridge each
day, about 15 times as Bridge Workers
many as in 1932. The bridge was built by 1,400
workers, 16 of whom were killed
in accidents during construction.


North Shore







Maintenance
Painting the bridge has
become a meta phor
for an endless task.
Approximately 30,000
litres (6,593 gal) of paint
are required for each The vertical hangers
coat, enough to cover support the slanting
an area equivalent to crossbeams which,
60 soccer pitches. in turn, carry the deck.













Father of the Bridge
Chief engineer Dr John Bradfield shakes
the hand of the driver of the first train to
cross the bridge. Over a 20-year period,
Bradfield supervised all aspects of the
Paying the Toll bridge’s design and construction. At the
The initial toll of sixpence helped pay off the construction opening ceremony, the highway linking
loan. The toll is now used for maintenance and to pay for the harbour’s south side and northern
the 1992 Sydney Harbour Tunnel. suburbs was named in his honour.





072-073_EW_Sydney.indd 73 29/05/17 12:19 pm

74  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


u Customs House
31 Alfred St, Circular Quay. Map 1 B3.
Tel 9242 8551. @ Sydney Explorer,
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St.
 Circular Quay. Open 8am–midnight
Mon–Sat (from 10am Sat), 11am–5pm
Sun & pub hols. Closed Good Fri,
25 Dec. - 0 7 ∑ sydney
customshouse.com.au
Colonial architect James Barnet
designed this 1885 sandstone
Classical Revival building on the
site of an ear lier Customs House.
It recalls the days when trading
Strolling along a section of the Writers’ Walk at Circular Quay ships loaded and unloaded their
goods at the quay. Features
r Sydney Opera in 1856; Water Police Station, include columns in polished
House designed by Alexander Dawson granite, a sculpted coat of arms
in 1858; and Police Court and a clock face, added in 1897,
See pp76–9. designed by James Barnet bearing a pair of tridents and
in 1885. Here the dolphins. It contains a City
t Writers’ Walk rough­and­tumble Library with a read ing
under world of room and exhibi tion
Circular Quay. Map 1 C2. @ Sydney quay side crime, space, and an open
Explorer, Circular Quay routes from
Elizabeth St.  Circular Quay. from the petty to lounge area with an
the violent, was international news­
This series of plaques set in the dealt swift and, at paper and maga zine
pavement at regular intervals times, harsh justice. salon, Internet access and
between East and West Circular The museum exhibits Detail from bar. On the roof, Café
Quay gives visitors the chance bear vivid testimony to Customs House Sydney offers great views.
to ponder the obser va tions of that turbulent period,
famous Australian writers, both as they docu ment and re­create
past and present, on their home legal and criminal history. Late i Macquarie Place
country, as well as the musings Victorian legal proceed ings can Map 1 B3. @ Sydney Explorer,
of some noted literary visitors. be easily imagined in the fully Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St.
Each plaque is dedicated to a restored courtroom.  Circular Quay.
particular writer, with a quo tation Menacing implements from
and a brief biographical note. knuckledusters to bludgeons In 1810, Governor Lachlan
Australian writers include novel­ are displayed as the macabre Macquarie created this park
ists Miles Franklin, Peter Carey, relics of violent and notorious on what was once part of the
and Thomas Keneally, poets crimes. The bushranger exhibit, vegetable garden of the first
Oodgeroo Noonuccal and Judith prison artifacts, and forensic Government House. The sand­
Wright, humorists Clive James display powerfully evoke the stone obelisk, designed by Francis
and Barry Humphries, and femi­ realities of the justice system Greenway (see p116), was erected
nist Germaine Greer. Among visit­ in Australia. There are also in 1818 to mark the starting point
ing writers are Charles Darwin, regularly changing exhibitions. for all roads in the colony. The gas
D H Lawrence and Mark Twain. lamps recall the fact that this
was also the site of Sydney’s first
y Justice and Police street lamp, installed in 1826.
Also in this little triangle of
Museum history are the remains of the
bow anchor and cannon from
Cnr Albert & Phillip Sts. Map 1 C3.
Tel 9252 1144. @ Sydney Explorer, HMS Sirius, flagship of the First
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St. Fleet. There is also a statue of
 Circular Quay, Martin Place. Thomas Mort, a 19th­century
Open 10am–5pm Sat & Sun (daily industrialist whose vast busi ness
Jan & NSW school hols). Closed Good interests embraced gold, coal
Fri, 25 Dec. & 8 7 restricted. and copper mining, dairy and
∑ sydneylivingmuseums.com.au cotton farming, wool auc tioning
and ship repair. These days his
The museum’s buildings were statue is a marshalling place for
originally the Water Police Court, Montage of criminal “mug shots”, the city’s somewhat kamikaze
designed by Edmund Blacket Justice and Police Museum bicycle couriers.




074-075_EW_Sydney.indd 74 29/05/17 12:19 pm

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  75

a St Philip’s Church
3 York St (enter from Jamison St).
Map 1 A3. Tel 9247 1071.
@ 311. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
Closed 26 Jan. 8 5 8:30am,
10:15am (for children), 6pm Sun.
∑ churchhillanglican.com
Despite its elevated site, this
Victorian Gothic church seems
overshadowed in its modern
setting. Yet, when it was first
built, the tall square tower
with its decorative pin nacles
Façade of the Museum of Contemporary Art was a local landmark.
Begun in 1848, St Philip’s is
o Museum of picnic. The MCA Store sells by Edmund Blacket, dubbed
Contemporary Art distinctive gifts by Australian “the Christopher Wren of
designers, as well as books on Australia” for the 58 churches
Circular Quay West, The Rocks. Map 1 contemporary art and design. he designed. In 1851, work
B2. Tel 9245 2400. @ Sydney Explorer, was disrupted when its stone-
Circular Quay routes from Elizabeth St. masons left for the gold fields,
 Circular Quay. Open 10am–5pm p National Trust but was completed by 1856.
daily (to 9pm Thu). Closed 25 Dec. Centre
7 8 ∑ mca.com.au A peal of bells was donated
Observatory Hill, Watson Rd, The Rocks. in 1858, with another added in
Sydney’s substantial collection Map 1 A3. Tel 9258 0123. @ Sydney 1888 to mark Sydney’s centen-
of contemporary art has grown Explorer, 311.  Circular Quay, ary. These bells are still in use.
steadily, but largely out of public Wynyard. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
view, since 1943. This was the year Gallery: Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
John Power died, leaving his art Closed public hols. - 7 =
collection and a financial bequest ∑ nationaltrust.org.au/places/
to the University of Sydney. national-trust-centre
In 1991, the permanent
collection, including works by The buildings that form the
Hockney, Warhol, Lichtenstein head quarters of the con servation
and Christo, was transferred organization, the National Trust
to this 1950s Art Deco-style of Australia (NSW), date from
former Maritime Services Board 1815, when Macquarie chose
Building. The museum also the site on Observatory Hill for
hosts tempo rary exhibitions a military hospital.
of works by both Australian Today they house the S H Ervin
and international artists. Gallery, with changing exhibitions
The grassed area at the throughout the year, designed
front of the building is an ideal to explore the richness and The interior and pipe organ of St Philip’s
location for a harbour-front diversity of Australian art. Anglican church
A Flagpole on the Mudflats
It is easy to miss the modest flagpole in Loftus
Street near Customs House. It flies a flag, the
Union Jack, on the spot where Australia’s first
ceremonial flag-raising took place. On 26 January
1788, Captain Arthur Phillip came ashore to hoist
the flag and declare the foun dation of the colony.
A toast to the King was drunk and a musket volley
fired. On the same day, the rest of the First Fleet
arrived from Botany Bay to join Phillip and his
men. (On this date each year, the country marks
Australia Day with a national holiday.) In 1788,
the flag pole was on the edge of mudflats on
Sydney Cove. Today, because of the large amount
The Founding of Australia, by Algernon Talmage, which hangs of land reclaimed to build Circular Quay, it is
in Parliament House (see pp114–15) some distance from the water’s edge.





074-075_EW_Sydney.indd 75 29/05/17 12:19 pm

76  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

r Sydney Opera House

No other building on earth looks like the Sydney Opera House.
Popularly known as the “Opera House”, it is, in fact, a complex of
theatres, performance spaces and concert halls linked beneath
its famous shells. Its birth was long and complicated. Many of
the construction problems had not been faced before, resulting
in an architectural adventure which lasted 14 years (see p79).
As well as being Australia’s most popular tourist destination,
the Sydney Opera House is also one of the world’s busiest
performing arts centres, hosting nearly 2,000 performances
for more than 1.4 million audience members every year. . Joan Sutherland Theatre
With a seating capacity of up to
1,507, the venue’s second-largest
theatre is home to Opera Australia
and The Australian Ballet.









Detail of Possum Dreaming (1988)
The mural in the Joan Sutherland Theatre’s
northern foyer is by Michael Tjakamarra Nelson,
an indigenous Australian painter from Papunga,
in the central Australian desert.














Opera House Walkway
Extensive public walkways
around the building offer
the visitor views from many
different vantage points.
KEY
1 The Joan Sutherland Theatre
ceiling and walls are painted black
to focus attention on the stage. Northern Foyers
With spectacular views over the
2 The Monumental Steps and harbour, the Utzon Room and
forecourt are used for outdoor the large northern foyers of the
performances. Joan Sutherland Theatre on the
3 The Playhouse, seating almost eastern side of the building, as
400, is ideal for intimate productions well as the Concert Hall on the
while also able to present plays with western side, can be hired for
larger casts. conferences, lunches, parties
and weddings.




076-077_EW_Sydney.indd 76 29/05/17 12:19 pm

SY DNEY OPER A HOUSE  77

. Concert Hall
This is the largest hall, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
with seating for 2,679. Practical Information
With a high-vaulted
ceiling and white birch Bennelong Point. Map 1 C2. Tel
9250 7111. Box Office: 9250 7777.
and brush box finish, it Open per formances. 7 limited
makes for a splendid (9250 7777). 8 9am–5pm daily
setting for classical
and contemporary (except Good Fri, 25 Dec); phone in
music, talks, comedy advance (9250 7250). & 0 -
= ∑ sydneyoperahouse.com
shows and many
other events.
Transport
@ Sydney Explorer, Circular Quay
routes from Elizabeth St. g Circular
Quay.  Circular Quay.
Bennelong
At the top of the Monumental Steps is the fine-
dining Bennelong Restaurant (see p187), one of
several bars and eateries in the Opera House.


































. The Roofs
Although apoc ryphal, the theory that Jørn
Utzon’s arched roof design came to him while
peeling an orange is appealing. The highest
point is 67 m (221 ft) above sea level.

Detail of Utzon’s Tapestry (2004)
Jørn Utzon’s original design for this Gobelin-
style tapestry, which hangs floor to ceiling in
the remodelled Utzon Room, was inspired by
the music of Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.




076-077_EW_Sydney.indd 77 29/05/17 12:19 pm

78  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


Exploring Sydney Opera House
The Sydney Opera House covers almost 2 ha (4.5 acres),
and is the fourth building to stand on this prominent site.
Underneath the ten spectacular roofs of varying planes
and textures lies a complex maze of more than 1,000
rooms of all shapes and sizes. One of the world’s busiest
performing arts centres, the Opera House hosts more
than 2,000 events every year.


the orches tra pit accommodates
up to 70–80 musicians. It is
rumoured that Box C plays host
to a resident ghost.
Sydney Dance Company poster advertising
Concert Hall a production of Poppy
The rich concert acoustics aluminium panels in the ceiling
under the vaulted ceiling of control the temperature.
this venue are much admired. The Playhouse is used for
Sumptuous Australian wood small-cast plays and is also a
panelling and the 18 acoustic fully equipped cinema. The
rings above the stage clearly Sydney Theatre Company
A scene from La Bohème, being performed reflect back the sound. The (see p71) stages at least one
in the Joan Sutherland Theatre 10,500 pipe Grand Organ was performance here every year.
designed and built by Ronald The Studio hosts innovative,
Sharp in 1969–79. contemporary music and
Joan Sutherland Theatre
per formances in an intimate
The relatively compact size of space that seats just 350 people.
this venue makes for an intimate Drama Theatre, Studio
and Playhouse
ex perience, and stage designers
show off the theatre’s great The Drama Theatre was not Backstage
versatility for both opera and included in the original building Artists performing at the Opera
dance. The proscenium opening plan, so jackhammers were House have the use of five
is 12 m (39 ft) wide, and the stage brought in to hack it out of rehearsal studios, 60 dressing
extends back 25 m (82 ft), while the con crete. Refrigerated rooms and suites and a green
room, where visitors can enjoy a
breakfast at the end of the
Backstage Tour.
The scene-changing machin ery
works on very well-oiled
wheels – most crucial in the
Joan Sutherland Theatre where
there is regularly a change of
performance, with an average
of 14 productions being staged
John Olsen’s Salute to Five Bells (1973) in the Concert Hall foyer in repertoire each year.

1955 International design 1957 Utzon’s design wins Roof in mid-construction 2009 A State
competition announced and a lottery is established memorial service is
to finance the building held in the Concert
Hall following
Old tram shed at 1963 Building of 1973 Opera House officially
Bennelong Point roof shells begins opened by Queen Elizabeth II Utzon’s death
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 2010
1959 Construction begins 1963 Utzon opens 2007 Opera House
Sydney office 1973 Prokofiev’s becomes the youngest
1948 Sir Eugene Goossens opera War and Peace building to achieve
lobbies government and 1966 Utzon resigns. Australian is the first public UNESCO World Heritage
Bennelong Point is chosen architects appointed to performance in status as a site of major
as opera house site complete interior design Opera House cultural significance




078-079_EW_Sydney.indd 78 29/05/17 12:15 pm

SY DNEY OPER A HOUSE  79


The Design of the Opera House

In 1957, Jørn Utzon won the international competition to design the Sydney Opera
House. He envisaged a living sculpture that could be viewed from any angle – land,
air or sea – with the roofs as a “fifth façade”. It was boldly conceived, posing architectural
and engineering problems that Utzon’s initial compendium of sketches did not begin
to solve. When construction began in 1959, the intricate design proved impossible to
execute and had to be greatly modified. The project remained so controversial that
Utzon resigned in 1966 and an Aust ralian design team completed the building’s interior.
In 1999, Utzon agreed to be involved in guiding future changes to the building. Since
Utzon’s death in 2008, his son Jan has taken on this role.







Segmented globe Segments separated
Several pieces cut
out of a globe were
The Red Book, as submitted for the 1957 design used in an ingenious
competition, contains Utzon’s original concept manner by architect
sketches for the Sydney Opera House.
Jørn Utzon to make up
the now familiar shell
Roof comes into view roof structure.
Utzon’s Opera House Model
Shell membrane roof
Utzon visualized a
building that “floated” The construction
The northern foyers on water. materials remain
overlook Sydney Harbour. clearly exposed.


Stepped base







Utzon’s original interiors
and many of his design
features now exist only in
model form. The architect
donated his models and
2009 A State plans to the State Library
memorial service is of NSW (see p114).
held in the Concert
Hall following
Utzon’s death
The pre-cast roof has its
inspiration in nature. The
2010 basic idea for the formwork
of the roof was taken from The roof tiles were not
2007 Opera House
becomes the youngest the fanlike ribs of a palm. fixed in place individually,
building to achieve Realizing this deceptively but installed in panels to
UNESCO World Heritage simple idea took Utzon six create the smooth and
status as a site of major years of design work. continuous roof surface.
cultural significance


078-079_EW_Sydney.indd 79 29/05/17 12:15 pm

The mythological figure of Apollo atop the Archibald Fountain, Hyde Park
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Landmarks Parks and Gardens
1 Marble Bar 4 Sydney Tower p85 0 Hyde Park
2 Queen Victoria Building Cathedrals and Synagogues Theatres
5 Strand Arcade 9 St Mary’s Cathedral 3 State Theatre
6 Martin Place q Great Synagogue
7 Lands Department Building e St Andrew’s Cathedral
w Sydney Town Hall
Museums and Galleries
8 Museum of Sydney 0 metres 500
r Australian Museum pp90–91 0 yards 500



080-081_EW_Sydney.indd 80 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  81

CITY CENTRE

Australia’s first thoroughfare, George Street, becoming a popular venue for informal games
was originally lined with clusters of mud- of cricket. Slated for housing in the 1830s, it
and-wattle huts. The gold rushes brought was saved by Governor Bourke, who reaffirmed
bustling prosperity, and by the 1880s shops its status as a park. Today it remains a peaceful
and the archi tecturally majestic edifices of oasis, with Sydney’s legal, financial and
banks dominated the area. The city’s first sky- commerical centre located to its north, full
scraper – Culwulla Chambers in Castlereagh of glamorous boutiques, discount stores,
Street – was completed in 1913, before the offices, arcades and malls. Major transport,
city council imposed a 46-m (150-ft) height infrastructure, public art and open space
restriction which remained in place until projects are under way to revitalize
1956. Hyde Park, on the edge of the city this core area, spearheaded by the widening
centre, was first used as a racecourse, later and pedestrianization of George Street.


Restaurants pp187–9
1 Bambini Trust 7 Diethnes 13 Glass Brasserie
2 Barrafina 8 Double Barrel Coffee Merchants 14 Gowings Bar & Grill
3 Bistrode CBD 9 Eleven Bridge 15 GPO Pizza by Wood
4 Bodhi in the Park 10 est. 16 Machiavelli
5 Chophouse 11 Felix 17 Madame Nhu
6 Danjee 12 Fix Wine Bar + Restaurant 18 Mother Chu’s
Vegetarian Kitchen
19 Mr Wong
BRIDGE STREET 20 No. 1 Bent St
21 Pablo and Rusty’s
22 Rockpool Bar & Grill
ST
23 Spice Temple
BLIGH ST PHILLIP M A C Q U A R I E S T R E E T 24 Sushi e
25 Sushi Hotara
26 Tetsuya’s
27 Workshop Expresso
28 York Lane
G E O R G E
Wynyard
P I T T S T R E E T
Martin
Place
ELIZABETH
YORK STREET
S T R E E T
C A S T L E R E A G H
KENT STREET
CITY CENTRE STREET
K I N G S T R E E T K I N G S T R E E T
S T J A M E S R D St. James
S T R E E T
M A R K E T S T R E E T
C L A R E N C E S T R E E T
GEORGE STREET
Y O R K S T R E E T
PHILLIP
PARK
C O L L E G E
HYDE
PARK COOK S T R E E T
PARK
S U S S E X S T R E E T
E L I Z A B E T H
D R U I T T S T P I T T S T R E E T PA R K S T R E E T W I L L I A M S T
Town Hall R I L E Y
HYDE
PARK
BATHURST STREET S T R E E T S T R E E T
C A S T L E R E A G H
K E N T S T R E E T
GEORGE STREET
Museum
S T R E E T
See also Street Finder, S T R E E T
maps 1, 4 & 5 L I V E R P O O L
For keys to symbols see back flap
080-081_EW_Sydney.indd 81 29/05/17 12:16 pm

82  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: City Centre

Encompassing the commercial and business district of
Sydney, the comparatively small city centre of this sprawling
metropolis is squeezed within just a few blocks. Because
Sydney grew in a haphazard fashion, with many of today’s
streets following tracks originally made by bullocks, there
was no allowance for the expansion of the burgeoning city
into what has become a major international centre. The
streets used to empty at night after workers and shoppers
retreated to the suburbs. However, a booming population
and the growing appeal of living in the city centre is driving
a renaissance, with an emerging vibrant night scene of cafés, 2 . Queen Victoria Building
bars, restaurants and cultural venues. Rapid development of Taking up an entire city block, this
high-rise apartments has been accompanied by plans to 1898 former produce market has
pedestrianize the major boulevard, George Street, by 2019. been lovingly restored and is now
a shopping mall.











G E O R G E S T R E E T
3 State Theatre Y O R K S T R E E T
A gem from the era when the movies
reigned, this glittering and richly P I T T S T R E E T
dec orated 1929 cinema was once hailed
as “the Empire’s greatest theatre”.

0 metres 100
0 yards 100 M A R K E T S T R E E T

To Sydney
P I T T S T R E E T
Town Hall
C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T






Key
Suggested route E L I Z A B E T H S T R E E T


The Queen Victoria Statue was P A R K S T R E E T
found after a worldwide search
in 1983 ended in a small Irish
village. It had lain forgotten and 1 Marble Bar
neglected since being removed Once a landmark bar in the 1893
from the front of the Irish Tattersalls Hotel, it was dismantled and
Parliament in 1947. re-erected in the Sydney Hilton in 1973.




082-083_EW_Sydney.indd 82 29/05/17 12:16 pm

CIT Y CENTRE  83


5 Strand Arcade BOTANIC
A reminder of the late 19th-cen tury GARDEN
Victorian era when Sydney was famed CITY CENTRE AND THE
DOMAIN
as a city of elegant shopping arcades,
this faithfully restored example is said
to have been the finest of them all.
DARLING
HARBOUR
AND SURRY
HILLS
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 4

G E O R G E S T R E E T





MLC
Centre
M
A
R
T
I
K N P
I L
6 . Martin Place
N
Martin Place’s 1929 Art Deco
A C
E
Cenotaph is the site of
annual Anzac Day war
remembrance services.
P I T T S T R E E T T R E E
G S
C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T
T
S T R E E T

Theatre Royal
M A R K E T S T R E E T
C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T national designer labels.
E L I Z A B E T H
Westfield Sydney is an
upscale shopping mall
housing a wide range
of both local and inter-
E L I Z A B E T H S T R E E T

Hyde Park’s
northern end


4 . Sydney Tower
The tower tops the city skyline, giving
a bird’s eye view of the whole of
Sydney. It rises 305 m (1,000 ft) above
the ground and can be seen from as
far away as the Blue Mountains.




082-083_EW_Sydney.indd 83 29/05/17 12:16 pm

84  SY DNEY AREA BY AREA

2 Queen Victoria Blarney Castle, Ire land, and a
Building sculpture of Islay, beloved dog
of Queen Victoria. In 1983, a
455 George St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9264 worldwide search began for a
9209.  Town Hall. Open 9am–6pm statue of the queen herself. One
Mon–Sat (to 9pm Thu), 11am–5pm was finally found in the village
Sun. 7 8 See Shops and Markets: of Daingean, Republic of Ireland,
p198 and p200. ∑ qvb.com.au
where it had lain forgotten
French Designer Pierre Cardin since its removal from the front
called the Queen Victoria of the Irish Parliament in 1947.
Building “the most beautiful Fully restored, the Queen
shopping centre in the Victoria Statue stands near the
world”. Yet this spacious, ornate wishing well. Inside the QVB,
Romanesque building, better suspended from the ceiling,
Entrance to the Marble Bar, in the known as the QVB, began life is the Royal Clock. Weighing
basement level of the Hilton Sydney as the Sydney produce market. more than 1 tonne and over
The dust, flies, grime and 5 m (17 ft) tall, the clock was
1 Marble Bar shouts as horses struggled designed by Neil Glasser in
with heavy loads on the 1982. The upper structure
488 George St. Map 1 B5.
Tel 9266 2000.  Town Hall. slippery ramps are now features part of Balmoral
Open 4pm to late Mon–Thu, difficult to imagine. Castle above a copy
5pm–2am Fri & Sat, 5–11pm Sun. Comp leted to of the four dials
Closed public hols. the design of City of Big Ben. At one
Architect George minute to every
The Marble Bar, originally part McRae in 1898, hour, a fanfare is
of George Adams’ Tattersalls the dominant Roof detail, Queen played and there
Hotel built in 1893, is an features are the Victoria Building follows a parade
inspired link with the Sydney central dome, depicting six scenes
of an earlier era. The bar, sheathed in copper, as are from the lives of various kings
whose rich and decadent the 20 smaller domes, and and queens of England.
Italian Renaissance style had the glass barrel­vault roof which
made it a local institution, was lets in a flood of natural light.
dismantled before the demoli­ The market closed at the 3 State Theatre
tion of the hotel in 1969. Its end of World War I and the 49 Market St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9373
colonnade entrance, fireplaces build ing fell into disrepair. It had 6655.  Town Hall, Martin Place.
and counters were re­erected various roles during this time, Box office: Open 9am–5:30pm
in the Sydney Hilton basement including that of City Library. Mon–Fri. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. 7
and reopened in 1973. By the 1950s, after extensive 8 10am & 1pm Mon–Wed; bookings
During the week, the bar remodelling and neglect, it was essential. ∑ statetheatre.com.au.
attracts a broad range of city threatened with demolition.
workers for after­work drinks. Refurbished at a cost of over When it opened in 1929, this
On Fridays and at weekends A$75 million, the QVB reopened picture palace was hailed as the
if a band is playing, the in 1986 as a grand shop ping finest that local crafts manship
bar bustles with a younger gallery, with over 190 shops and could achieve. The State Theatre
crowd who come to hear boutiques on four levels. At the is one of the best examples in
mostly jazz and rhythm Town Hall end a wishing well Australia of the architectural
and blues music. incorporates a stone from fantasies used to entice
people to the movies.
Its Cinema Baroque style is
evident right from the Gothic
foyer, with its vaulted ceiling,
mosaic floor, richly decorated
marble columns and statues.
Inside the brass and bronze doors,
the auditorium, which seats over
2,000 people, is lit by a 20,000­
piece chandelier. The Wurlitzer
organ (currently under repair)
rises from below stage just before
performances. Now one of
Sydney’s premier concert and
theatre venues, it is also the main
base for the Sydney Film Festival,
The ornately decorated Gothic foyer of the State Theatre held in June each year (see p53).




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CIT Y CENTRE  85

4 Sydney Tower VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The highest observation deck in the southern hemisphere, Practical Information
the Sydney Tower was conceived as part of a 1970s 100 Market St. Map 1 B5. Tel 1800
shopping centre, but was not completed until 1981. About 258 693. Open 9am–10pm daily
(May–Sep: to 9:30pm). Skywalk:
one million visitors a year admire the stun ning views, often Open 10am–8pm daily (May–
stretching for over 85 km (53 miles), as far as the Blue Sep: to 7pm). 7 8 0
Mountains. A landmark in itself, it can be seen from almost - = ∑ sydneytowereye.
anywhere in the city. Visitors can also take a Skywalk tour com.au
on a platform around the turret’s exterior. Transport
@ Sydney Explorer, all city
routes. 4 Darling Harbour.
 St James, Martin Place.
The 30-m (98-ft) spire
completes the total
309 m (1,014 ft) of
the tower’s height.
The water tank holds
162,000 litres (35,500
gallons) and acts as
an enor mous stabilizer
Sydney Tower Eye Observation Deck on very windy days.
Views stretch to Pittwater in the north, Skywalk
Botany Bay to the south, westwards to
the Blue Mountains, and out to the sea. Level 4:
Observation deck
Level 3: Private
event space
The turret’s nine levels include Level 2: Buffet
two restaurants, a café and the restaurant
Observation Level.
Level 1: A la carte
restaurant
The windows comprise three layers.
The outer has a gold dust coating.
The frame design prevents panes
falling outwards.
The shaft is designed
to withstand wind
speeds expected The 56 cables weigh
only once in 500 years. seven tonnes each.
If laid end to end, they
would reach from New
The stairs are two Zealand to Sydney.
separate, fireproofed
emergency escape
routes.
Double-decker lifts
can carry up to 2,000
people per hour. At full
speed, a lift takes only
40 seconds to ascend
the 76 floors to the
Observation Level.
Skywalk
The 4-D cinema Visitors can step out with a
experience takes you on guide onto an open-air
Construction of the Turret a journey around Sydney. walkway around the outside
The nine turret levels were of the Sydney Tower. The
erected on the roof of the base glass-floor viewing platform
building, then hoisted up the provides spectacular views
shaft using hydraulic jacks. of the city below.




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86  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

5 Strand Arcade
412–414 George St. Map 1 B5.
Tel 9265 6800.  Martin Place,
Wynyard. Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–
Wed & Fri, 9am–9pm Thu, 9am–8pm
Sat, 11am–4pm Sun. Closed some
public hols, 25 & 26 Dec. 7 See Shops
and Markets: pp198–201.
Victorian Sydney was a city of
grand shopping arcades. The
Strand, joining George and Pitt
Streets and designed by English
architect John Spencer, was the
finest jewel in the city’s crown.
The blaze of publicity surrounding
its opening in April 1892 was
equalled only by the natural
light pouring through the glass
roof and the artificial glare from
the chan deliers, each carrying
50 jets of gas as well as 50 lamps.
The boutiques and shops in
the galleries make window Interior of National Australia Bank, George Street end of Martin Place
shopping a delight in this airy
building which, after a fire in Council, in a performance space building has a pink granite façade
1976, was restored to its origi nal near Castlereagh Street. with four huge Ionic columns.
splendour. Be sure to stop, Every Anzac Day, a national The next building along
as shoppers have done since day of war remembrance on is the MLC Centre, a famous
opening day, for refreshments 25 April, the focus moves to skyscraper designed by Harry
at one of the beautiful coffee the Cenotaph at the George Seidler (see p43).
shops in the arcade. Street end. Thou sands of past
and present service men and 7 Lands Department
women attend a dawn service
and wreath-laying cere mony, Building
followed by a march-past. The 23 Bridge St. Map 1 B3. @ 325,
shrine, with bronze statues of a George St routes. Open only one
soldier and a sailor on a granite day of the year, date varies. 7
base, by Bertram MacKennal, ∑ sydneylivingmuseums.com.au
was unveiled in 1929.
On the southern side of the Designed by the Colonial
Cenotaph is the symmetrical Architect James Barnet, this
façade of the Renaissance- three-storey Classical Revival
style General Post Office, sandstone edifice was built
consid ered to be the finest between 1877 and 1890.
building by James Barnet, As with the GPO building,
The Pitt Street entrance to the majestic Colonial Architect. Con- Pyrmont sandstone was
Strand Arcade struction of the GPO, as used for the exterior.
Sydneysiders call it, took Decisions about the
place between 1866 and sub division of much of rural
6 Martin Place 1874, with additions in Pitt eastern Australia were made
Street between 1881 and in offices within. Statues of
Map 1 B4. @ Elizabeth St routes.
 Martin Place. 1885. Most contro versial explorers and legislators
were the relief figures who “pro moted settle-
Running from George Street exe cuted by Tomaso ment” fill 23 of the
across Pitt, Castlereagh and Sani. Although Barnet Statue of explorer façade’s 48 niches;
Elizabeth Streets to Macquarie declared that the figures Gregory Blaxland the remainder are still
Street, this plaza was opened represented Australians empty. The luminaries
in 1891 and made a traffic-free in realistic form, they were include the explorers Hovell
precinct in 1971. It is busiest at labelled “grotesque”. and Hume, Sir Thomas Mitchell,
lunchtime when city workers The Commonwealth Savings Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth
enjoy their sandwiches while Bank is further north, just after (see p138), Ludwig Leichhardt,
watching free entertainment, the intersection with Pitt Street. Bass and Matthew Flinders and
sponsored by the Sydney City Built in 1928, this Beaux-Arts the botanist Sir Joseph Banks.




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CIT Y CENTRE  87

8 Museum of History of Sydney
Sydney Outside the museum, a paving
pattern outlines the site of
Cnr Bridge & Phillip Sts. Map 1 B3. the first Government House.
Tel 9251 5988.  Circular Quay, Original foundations, lost under
Martin Place. Open 10am–5pm daily. street level for many years,
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & - 0 can be seen here through a
8 7 ∑ sydneylivingmuseums. window. Inside the entrance
com.au/museum-of-sydney
a viewing floor reveals more
Situated at the base of Gover nor foundations. A segment of wall
Phillip Tower, the Museum of has been reconstructed using
Sydney is on the site of the first sandstone excavated during
Government House, the home, archaeologi cal exploration of
office and seat of authority for The Viewing Cube, Level 2, over looking the the site.
the first nine governors of NSW piazza to Circular Quay The Colony display on Level 1
from 1788 until its demolition focuses on Sydney during the
in 1846. The design assimilates from a contemporary perspec­ critical decade of the 1840s when
a valuable archaeological site tive. In the square at the front convict transportation ended,
into a modern office block. of the complex, the acclaimed the town officially became a
The museum itself traces the Edge of the Trees sculpture, a city and suffered an economic
city’s turbulent history, from collection of 29 sandstone, steel depression. There is also a set of
the 1788 arrival of the British and wooden pillars, sym bolizes scale models of the 11 First Fleet
colonists until the present day. the first contact ships. The museum
between the presents stories
Indigenous Peoples Aboriginal peoples of the Fleet’s
The museum sits on Cadigal and Euro peans. journey, arrival,
land. A gallery explores the Haunting voices first contacts
culture, history, continuity in the Eora tongue with indigenous
and place of Sydney’s original fill the space. people and the
Aboriginal inhabitants, and the Inscribed in the survival challenges
“turning point” of colonization/ wood are signa­ faced by those on
invasion. Collectors’ chests tures of the First The Trade Wall display board. On Level 2,
hold items of daily use such Fleeters and names on Level 1 20th­century Sydney
as flint and ochre, each piece of botanical species is explored, with
painstakingly catalogued and in both the indigenous language panoramic images of the
evocatively interpreted. and Latin. Incisions made in the developing city providing a
There are two audiovisual pillars are filled with organic vivid backdrop. The Museum of
exhibits which explore the materials such as ash, feathers, Sydney has a regular changing
history of indigenous peoples bone, shells and human hair. exhibition programme.

























Edge of the Trees sculptural installation, by Janet Laurence and Fiona Foley (1995)




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88  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA


MacKennal, also responsible for
the Martin Place Cenotaph (see
p86) and the Shakespeare group
outside the State Library (see
p114). The crypt houses a histori­
cal exhibition of the early Sydney
church. The terrazzo mosaic floor
here took 15 years to complete.

q Great Synagogue
187 Elizabeth St, entrance on 166
Castlereagh St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9267
2477. @ Elizabeth St routes.
 St James. Open for services and
tours. Closed public & Jewish hols.
Gothic Revival-style façade of St Mary’s Cathedral 7 with advance notice. & 8
∑ greatsynagogue.org.au
9 St Mary’s the foundation stone for
Cathedral St Mary’s Chapel on the site of The longest­established Jewish
today’s cathedral, the first land Orthodox congre gation in
St. Mary’s Rd. Map 1 C5. Tel 9220 0400. gran ted to the Catholic Australia assembles
@ Elizabeth St routes.  St James, Church in Australia. in this synagogue,
Martin Place. Cathedral: Open 6:30am– The initial section of consecrated in 1878.
6pm Mon–Fri (to 7pm Sat & Sun). Crypt: the Gothic Revival­style Although Jews had
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri. & 7 with
advance notice. 8 by prior arrange­ cathedral was opened in arrived with the First
ment. ∑ stmaryscathedral.org.au 1882. In 1928, the building Fleet, worship did not begin
was completed, but without until the 1820s. With its carved
Although Catholics arrived with the twin southern spires entrance columns and stained­
the First Fleet, the celebration proposed by the architect, glass windows, the syna­
of Mass was at first prohibited William Wardell. By the gogue is perhaps the
in case the priests provoked civil entrance steps are statues Candelabra from finest work of Thomas
strife among the colony’s large of Australia’s first cardinal, the Great Rowe, the architect of
Irish Catholic population. The Moran, and Archbishop Synagogue Sydney Hospital (see
first priests were appointed in Kelly who laid the stone p115). The panelled
1820 and services allowed. In for the final stage in 1913. ceiling is decorated with
1821, Governor Macquarie laid They were sculpted by Bertram hundreds of tiny gold­leaf stars.

0 Hyde Park Though much smaller today, it
still provides a peace ful haven.
Map 1 B5. @ Elizabeth St routes.
 St James, Museum.
Anzac Memorial
Fenced and named after its The 30­m­ (98­ft­) high Art Deco
London equivalent by Governor memorial, reflected in the poplar­
Macquarie in 1810, Hyde Park lined Pool of Remem brance,
marked the out skirts of the town­ commemorates those Australians
ship. It was a popular exercise who were killed at war in the Diana, goddess of purity and the chase,
field for garrison troops and service of their country. Opened Archibald Fountain
was later used as a racecourse. in 1934, it now includes a photo­
graphic and military artifact exhi­ Archibald Fountain
bi tion down stairs. Nearby, the This bronze and granite foun tain
Yininmadyemi artwork, depicting commemorates the French and
standing bullets and fallen shells, Australian World War I alliance.
honours the Aborigines who It was completed by François
have served in Australia’s military. Sicard in 1932 and donated by
J F Archibald, one of the founders
Sandringham Gardens of the Bulletin, a popular literary
In spring, the pergola here is magazine which encouraged
a cascade of mauve­flowering the work of Henry Lawson and
wisteria. The gardens, a memorial “Banjo” Paterson, among many
to the English kings George V others. It was Archibald’s bequest
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in the and George VI, were opened by that established the Archibald
Art Deco Anzac Memorial Queen Elizabeth II in 1954. Prize for portraiture (see p53).




088-089_EW_Sydney.indd 88 29/05/17 12:19 pm

CIT Y CENTRE  89


who followed. The vestibule – e St Andrew’s
an elegant salon with intricate Cathedral
plasterwork, lav ish stained
glass and a crystal chandelier – Sydney Square, cnr George &
is the work of Albert Bond. Bathurst Sts. Map 4 E3. Tel 9265
The Bradbridge brothers 1661.  Town Hall. Open contact
the cathedral for opening hours
completed the clock tower and tour times. 7 8 ∑ sydney
in 1884. From 1888–9, other cathedral.com
architects were used for the
Centennial Hall, with its coffered While the foundation stone
zinc ceiling and the imposing for the country’s oldest
19th-century Grand Organ cathedral was laid in 1819,
with over 8,500 pipes. almost 50 years elapsed before
On the façade, you will see the building was consecrated
numerous carved lion heads. in 1868. The Gothic Revival
The Grand Organ in Sydney Town Hall’s Just to the north of the main design is by Edmund Blacket,
Centennial Hall entrance, facing George Street, whose ashes are interred
a lion has been here. Inspired by
w Sydney Town Hall carved with one York Minster
eye shut. This in England,
483 George St. Map 4 E2.
Tel 9265 9333.  Town Hall. oddity appeared the twin towers
Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri. because of the were completed
Closed public hols. 7 8 head stone- in 1874. In
∑ sydneytownhall.com.au mason’s habit of 1949, the main
checking the line entrance was
The steps of this sandstone of the stonework The Great Bible, moved to the
building, central to George by closing one eye. St Andrew’s Cathedral eastern end near
Street’s Victorian architecture, The sly joke was not George Street.
have been a favourite Sydney found until work was finished. Inside are memorials to
meeting place since it opened Some people have conclud ed Sydney pioneers, including
in 1869. Walled burial grounds that Sydney Town Hall became Thomas Mort (see p74),
had originally covered the site. the city’s most elabo rate as well as a collection
It is a fine example of high building by accident, as each of religious memorabilia.
Victorian architecture. The architect strove to outdo similar The southern wall incorpor-
original architect, J H Wilson, buildings in Manchester and ates stones from London’s
died during its construction, Liverpool. Today, it makes a St Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster
as did several of the architects magnificent event venue. Abbey and the House of Lords.

Obelisk landscape. Tunnels were exca- supply opened in 1837.
This monument was dubbed vated through an open cut that John Busby, a civil engineer,
“Thornton’s Scent Bottle” after ran through the park, and after conceived and supervised the
the mayor of Sydney who had the rail system was opened in construction of the 4.4-km
it erected in 1857. The mock- 1926 the entire area had to be (2¾-mile) tunnel. It carried
Egyptian edifice is in fact a remodelled and replanted. water from bores on Lachlan
ventilator for a sewer. Swamp, now within Centennial
Busby’s Bore Fountain Park (see p129), to horse-drawn
Emden Gun This is a reminder of Busby’s water carriers on the corner of
Standing at the corner of Bore, the city’s first piped water Elizabeth Street and Park Street.
College and Liverpool Streets,
this monument commemorates
a World War I naval action.
HMAS Sydney destroyed the
German raider Emden off the
Cocos Islands on 9 November
1914, and 180 crew members
were taken prisoner.

City Circle Railway
The park we see today bears
very little resemblance to the
Hyde Park of old. In fact, the
dictates of city railway tunnels
have largely created its present Game in progress on the giant chessboard, near Busby’s Bore Fountain




088-089_EW_Sydney.indd 89 29/05/17 12:19 pm

90  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

r Australian Museum

The Australian Museum, the nation’s leading natural
science museum, founded in 1827, was the first
museum established and remains the premier
showcase of Australian natural history. The main
building, an impressive sandstone structure with
a marble staircase, faces Hyde Park. Architect Mortimer
Lewis was forced to resign his position when building
costs began to far exceed the budget. Construction
was completed in the 1860s by James Barnet. Crystal Hall Main Entrance
The collection provides a journey across Australia As originally intended by the architect
in the 19th century, the main entrance
and the near Pacific, covering biology and both natural is now on William Street. Opened in
and cultural history. The museum runs a changing 2015, the glass walkway
programme of special events, including talks, features a façade of
workshops, demonstrations and kids’ activities. diamond-shaped
glass pleats.
Chapman Mineral
Collection
Planet of Minerals
This section features a
walk-through re-creation
of an underground mine
with a display of gems
and minerals.
Rhodochrosite Cuprite


Crystal Hall
Main Entrance


Education
Centre













. First Australians
From the Dreaming to the struggle for self-
determination and land rights, this exhibit Ground
tells the stories of Australia’s first peoples. floor


Museum Guide The historic College
The First Australians Gallery is on the ground floor, Street entrance has
as are the Long Gallery and Wild Planet. Mineral The Long Gallery, been converted into
and rock exhibits are in two galleries on level 1. on the ground floor, an exhibition space –
Birds and Insects are found on level 2, along with provides insights into Wild Planet – with over
Kidspace, Surviving Australia and Dinosaurs. 100 famous Australians. 400 animal specimens.




090-091_EW_Sydney.indd 90 29/05/17 12:16 pm

CIT Y CENTRE  91


. Search & Discover VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sydneysiders bring bugs, rocks
and bones to this hands-on Practical Information
area for identification. 1 William St. Map 4 F3.
The public can also access Tel 9320 6000. Open 9:30am–
an online research facility. 5pm daily (till 9pm Wed Dec–
Feb). Closed 25 Dec. & 7
8 0 - =
∑ australianmuseum.net.au
Transport
@ Sydney Explorer, 323, 324,
325, 389.  Museum, Town Hall.
Level 2











Surviving Australia
This exhibit explores wild Australia, including
this venomous Speckled Brown Snake, as
well as sharks, croco diles and other
dangerous animals.


Dinosaurs
Discover the
200-million-year-old
story of dinosaurs
Level 1 in this exhibition.








Birds and Insects
Australia’s most poisonous spider, the male . Kidspace
of the Sydney funnel-web species, dwells This mini museum is designed especially for
exclusively in the Greater Sydney region. children aged five and under to investigate
the natural world.
Key to Floorplan
Dinosaurs
Kidspace
“Welcome Stranger” Gold Nugget Cast
Surviving Australia
First Australians In 1869, the largest gold nugget
ever found in Australia was
Temporary exhibition space discovered in Victoria. It weighed
Non-exhibition space 71.06 kg (156 lb). The museum
Plants and Minerals holds a cast of the original in a
Birds and Insects display examining the impact
of the gold rush, when the
Search & Discover Australian population doubled
Long Gallery in ten years. 67.5 cm (26 ⁄2 in) wide
1
Wild Planet



090-091_EW_Sydney.indd 91 29/05/17 12:16 pm

14 •15 •20 300m
PYRMONT 25 •30
BAY PARK
300m
Pyrmont
Bay
200m
Cockle SUSSEX STREET
Bay
D A R L I N G
Convention BATHURST STREET
P Y R M O N T
H A R R I S
HARBOUR
DARLING Museum
HARBOUR L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T
1km CASTLEREAG O X F O R D S T R E E T
S T R E E T
STREET
R O A D
S T R E E T
Exhibition STREET SUSSEX STREET GOULBURN STREET H W E N T W O R T H A V E N U E GOULBURN STREET
PIE R STREET
S T R E E T
Darling Harbour, seen from the waterside CHINATOWN STREET
Paddy's CAMPBELL STREET
Markets RILEY STREET
HAY STREET COMMONWEALTH STREET
Sights at a Glance Capitol MARY STREET
Square
Historic Districts and Buildings Entertainment PITT BELMORE ELIZABETH CROWN STREET
4 Pyrmont Bridge 2 SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium p98 ULTIMO ROAD G E O R G E PARK A L B I O N S T R E E T
7 Chinatown 3 WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo p99 H A R R I S S T R E E T EDDY AVE STREET
w Surry Hills 5 ICC Sydney RAILWAY Central SURRY
SQUARE
Museums and Galleries Theatres Central HILLS
1 Australian National Maritime 8 Capitol Theatre BR O ADWAY Railway STREET FOVEAUX STR
Station
Museum pp96–7 Markets SOPHIA STREET
q Powerhouse Museum pp102–3 9 Paddy’s Markets CHALMERS WATERLOO STREET
Parks and Gardens 0 metres 250 REGENT ST LEE ST COOPER STREET LITTLE RILEY STREET EET RILEY STREET
6 Chinese Garden of Friendship 0 yards 250 CROWN STREET
0 The Goods Line D E V O N S H I R E S T R E E T
092-093_EW_Sydney.indd 92 29/05/17 12:16 pm

SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA  93
DARLING HARBOUR AND

SURRY HILLS

Darling Harbour is named after the seventh high-rise residential, hotel and commercial
governor of New South Wales, Ralph Darling. developments, a pedestrian boulevard and
It was an unsavoury place in the late 19th walkways, and increased public green space.
century, known for its thieves’ dens and bawdy Until the 1940s, Surry Hills was a depressed,
houses. The docks were an embarkation point inner city slum area, vividly described in Ruth
for wool and other exports. As Sydney Harbour Park’s The Harp in the South. In the postwar
industry declined, Darling Harbour became years, it became home to mostly European
rundown, only to be revived as a focal point migrants and the garment and fashion
of the 1988 Bicentenary. Several decades trade. More recently, young professionals
on, Darling Harbour is being transformed, have moved in, lured by a thriving café and
through world-class entertainment venues, restaurant scene and proximity to the city.
Restaurants pp189–191
1 BBQ King 6 Caysorn Thai 14 King Street Brewhouse
2 Berta 7 Chat Thai 15 Kobe Jones
3 Bodega 8 Devon 16 El Loco at Slip Inn
4 Boon 9 Din Tai Fung 17 Longrain
5 Cafe Rumah 10 The Dolphin Hotel Dining 18 LuMi Bar & Dining
Room 19 Mahjong Room
11 Encasa 20 The Malaya
12 Golden Century 21 Mamak
13 Home Café & Thai Restaurant 22 Marigold
23 Mohr Fish
24 Momofuku Seiobo
14 •15 •20 300m
PYRMONT 25 •30 25 Nick’s Bar & Grill
BAY PARK
300m 26 Paramount Coffee Project
27 Pasteur
Pyrmont 28 Reuben Hills
Bay
29 Sepia
200m
30 Steerson’s Steakhouse
31 Taste Baguette on Sussex Lane
Cockle
Bay 32 Zaafran
D A R L I N G
SUSSEX STREET
Convention BATHURST STREET
P Y R M O N T
H A R R I S
HARBOUR
DARLING Museum
HARBOUR L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T
1km CASTLEREAG O X F O R D S T R E E T
S T R E E T
STREET
R O A D
S T R E E T
Exhibition STREET SUSSEX STREET GOULBURN STREET H W E N T W O R T H A V E N U E GOULBURN STREET
PIE R
S T R E E T
CHINATOWN STREET
Paddy's STREET CAMPBELL STREET
Markets RILEY STREET
HAY STREET COMMONWEALTH STREET
Capitol
Square ELIZABETH MARY STREET
ULTIMO ROAD G E O R G E PITT BELMORE A L B I O N S T R E E T CROWN STREET
PARK
RAILWAY Central EDDY AVE STREET SURRY
SQUARE HILLS
BR O ADWAY Railway STREET SOPHIA STREET
Central
H A R R I S S T R E E T
FOVEAUX STR
Station
LEE ST CHALMERS COOPER STREET WATERLOO STREET LITTLE RILEY STREET EET RILEY STREET
REGENT ST
See also Street Finder, CROWN STREET
maps 1, 3 & 4 D E V O N S H I R E S T R E E T
092-093_EW_Sydney.indd 93 29/05/17 12:16 pm

94  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Darling Harbour

Darling Harbour was New South Wales’ bicentennial gift
to itself, turning a former busy industrial centre and
international shipping terminal catering for the local wool,
grain, timber and coal trades, into a tourism and entertainment
destination that opened in 1988, complete with the Australian
National Maritime Museum and SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium.
In 2013, a major reinvention of the precinct commenced,
combining stunning high-rise architecture with pedestrian
walkways, open spaces and many restaurants, cafés and
shops. The landmark, striking ICC Sydney opened in 2016,
and the area continues to develop, with more luxury hotels, Harbourside Complex offers
residential towers and shopping facilities. restaurants and cafés with superb
views over the water to the city
skyline. There is also a wide range
of speciality shops, selling unusual
5 ICC Sydney
The International gifts and other items.
Convention Centre
includes a theatre, a
large ballroom and
convention space.
The Goods Line
D A R L I N G D R I V E






The Tidal Cascades sunken
fountain was designed by
Robert Woodward, also
responsible for the El Alamein
Fountain (see p122). The
double spiral of water and
paths replicate the patterns
of the cockleshells that
were once plentiful on the
rocks at the water’s edge,
and after which Cockle Bay
was named. W E S T E R N D I S T R I B U T O R W E S T E R N

IMAX Darling Harbour, featuring
D I S T R I B U T O R
the world’s largest screen, is being
rebuilt and will reopen in 2019.
Chinese Garden
of Friendship


6The Chinese Garden of
Friendship is a haven of
peace and tranquillity in the
heart of Sydney. Its landscaping,
with winding pathways, Key
waterfalls, lakes and pavilions,
offers an insight into the rich Suggested route
culture of China.




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D ARLING HARBOUR AND SURR Y HILLS  95





CITY
CENTRE
DARLING
HARBOUR
AND SURRY
HILLS
4 Pyrmont Bridge
The swingspan bridge Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3 & 4
opens for vessels up
to 14 m (46 ft) tall.
A historic fleet of 14 vessels is
docked at the museum’s wharves,
making it one of the world’s largest
collections held at a museum.

The Star casino

1 . Australian National
Maritime Museum
Compelling exhibits detail the
nation’s seafaring history before
D A R L I N G D R I V E and after European settlement.

The HMAS Vampire (1959),
a destroyer built for the Royal
Australian Navy, is the largest
vessel in the fleet moored
outside the museum.

WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo









King Street
Wharf
Wharf for
harbour cruise
departures
2 . SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium
The aquatic life of Sydney Harbour, the open
ocean and the Great Barrier Reef is displayed
in massive tanks, which can be seen from
underwater walkways.


Cockle Bay Wharf is
Key
vibrant and colourful,
Suggested route and an exciting food and 0 metres 100
enter tainment precinct. 0 yards 100



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96  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

1 Australian National Maritime Museum

Bounded as it is by the sea, Australia’s history is
inextricably linked to maritime traditions. The museum
displays material in a broad range of permanent and
temporary thematic exhibits. As well as artifacts relating
to the enduring Aboriginal maritime cultures, the
exhibits survey the history of European exploratory
voy ages in the Pacific, the arrival of convict ships,
successive waves of migration and naval life.
Historic vessels on show at the wharf include a flimsy
Vietnamese refugee boat, sailing, fishing and pearling Museum Façade
The billowing steel roof design
boats, a navy patrol boat and a World War II commando by Philip Cox suggests both
raider. Visitors can board a submarine and a replica the surging sea and the sails
tall ship as part of the many interactive exhibits. of a ship.

Passengers has a model of the
Orcades, which reflects the grace of
1950s liners. This display also charts
harrowing sea voyages made
by migrants and refugees.
The Tasman Light
was used in a
Tasmanian
lighthouse.

Eora Indigenous Gallery –
First People traces the seafaring
traditions of Aboriginal peoples
and Torres Strait Islanders.











. Navigators
This 1754 engraving of an East Indian The Sirius anchor
sea creature is a European vision of is from a 1790
the un charted, exotic “great south”. wreck off Main entrance
Norfolk Island. (sea level)
Mini Mariners is a dedicated
maritime-themed play area for
Key to Floorplan children under 5 years.
Navigators and Eora Indigenous Gallery – First People
Passengers The Navy exhibit examines naval
life in war and peace, as well as
Mini Mariners
the history of Colonial navies.
Navy
USA Gallery The USA Gallery honours enduring maritime
links between the US and Australia through trade,
Temporary exhibitions
migration and defence. American traders stopped
Non-exhibition space off in Aust ralia on their way to China.


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D ARLING HARBOUR AND SURR Y HILLS  97

Action Stations
Experience the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
compelling history of
the Royal Australian Practical Information
Navy by exploring 2 Murray St, Darling Harbour. Map
the drama and danger 3 C2. Tel 9298 3777. Open 9:30am–
of navy life in this 5pm daily (Jan: 6pm). Closed
interactive exhibition, 25 Dec. & (special ex hib itions,
housed in the striking sub marine, Endeavour & destroyer).
7 8 - = ∑ anmm.gov.au
Waterfront Pavilion.
Transport
@ Sydney Explorer.  Town
Hall. v Pyrmont Bay.


Level 1 Lighthouse
Sailors were guided by this
1874 lighthouse for over a
century. It was rebuilt
complete with original
kerosene lamp.

Gallery One












A replica of Captain
Cook’s Endeavour is
based at the
museum.



. On the Waterfront
The museum’s heritage
fleet, including boats,
seafarers’ memorial anchors,
and sculptures, take pride of
place on the waterfront.


HMAS Onslow,
an Oberon-class
submarine.
. HMAS Vampire
The museum’s largest
vessel is the 1959 Royal
Australian Navy destroyer, Museum Guide
whose insignia is shown. The Navy and USA Gallery exhibits and Mini
Tours of “The Bat” are Mariners play area are located on the main
accompanied by entrance level (sea level). The Eora Indigenous
simu lated battle Gallery – First People, Navigators and
action sounds.
Passengers sections are on the first level.




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98  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

2 SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium’s themed zones bring visitors Practical Information
close to more than 13,000 animals from 700 species in both Aquarium Wharf, Darling Harbour.
marine and freshwater aquatic environments, including the Map 4 D2. Tel 1800 199 657.
Open 9am–7pm daily (last
world's largest Great Barrier Reef display. The highlight is a adm 6pm). & 7 - =
walk “on the ocean floor” through 100 m (328 feet) of ∑ sydneyaquarium.com.au
underwater tunnels. These allow close observation of sharks, Transport
stingrays and schools of fish, as well as two rare dugongs. The @ Sydney Explorer. g Darling
conservation-focused aquarium also includes penguin Har bour.  Town Hall.
v Paddy’s Markets.
breeding and animal rescue programmes.
as orphaned calves. Visitors can
Platypuses see them from above the water
Endemic to the rivers, in the open­air ocean pool and
streams, billabongs and swimming down to feed in the
lakes of the east coast underwater tunnel.
and Tasmania, the
platypus is an iconic Discovery Rockpool
symbol of Australia. Visitors get the opportunity
When discovered by to gently touch the spiral eggs
Europeans, the animal’s of a Port Jackson shark and
strange collection feel the spongy texture of a
of physical attributes, sea cucumber and the bumpy
including a duck­like bill skin of a starfish while learning
and otter’s tail, was once about the conservation and
Dugongs viewed from the underwater tunnel thought to be some careful handling of sea animals.
kind of elaborate hoax.
Exploring the Aquarium Shark Walk and Shark Valley
Built on a pier in Darling Harbour, Claws Through an underwater tunnel,
SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium This exhibit features the visitors can encounter huge
comprises over 4,000 sq m world’s largest crab species – stingrays, shoals of fish as well
(43,000 sq ft) of exhibition space the Japanese Spider Crab. It as the largest sharks on display
and is one of the largest aquar­ can grow to a claw­to­claw in the aquarium – the critically
iums in the world. Exhibits are span of almost 4 m (13 ft). endangered grey nurse shark.
organised by theme and take
the visitor on a journey through Dugong Island Great Barrier Reef
the different marine habitats An exciting attraction are the two Oceanarium
of the Australian continent, dugongs (sea cows) – only five The world’s largest coral
Habitat zones include South are currently held in captivity. reef extends along 2,300 km
Coast Shipwreck, Sydney Related to elephants, these (1,430 miles) of Australia’s coast.
Harbour, Dugong Island, Shark docile, herbivorous mammals Vibrant blue tangs, clownfish and
Valley and Jurassic Seas. can reach up to 3 m (9.8 ft) in ornate lionfish are on display as
It is worth checking the web­ length and live for more than well as tropical sharks and rays.
site or asking on arrival about 70 years. Named “Pig” and At the end of the oceanarium,
feeding times and talks through­ “Wuru” (an Aboriginal word the floor­to­ceiling Reef Theatre
out the day. For an added cost, meaning “young child”), the glass panel offers an unparalleled
visitors can ride out on a glass­ dugongs were origi nally rescued spectacle of the exotic creatures.
bottom boat to watch and feed
the sharks first hand; take a
20­minute snorkel in a trans par­
ent enclosure; or ride in a raft
through the Penguin Expedition
exhibit, which simulates a rugged
sub­Antarctic environment, albeit
at a more comfortable – though
still chilly – 6 degrees centigrade
(43 degrees Fahrenheit).
Attractions
SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium
offers a great variety of exhibits
and animal encounters. Sharks and hundreds of other fish on view from the Reef Theatre




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