(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sydney

FOUR GUIDED W ALKS  149


the Victorian buildings at Nos.
97–99 and 95, a lane into Fairy
Bower Road leads to views of
the former St Patrick’s Semin ary,
now the International College of
Management, Sydney 7. Both
Roman esque and Neo-Gothic
archi tecture are in evidence
in this 1885 edifice, built
only after much deliberation
by an essen tially Protestant
government. It was used as the
Gatsby mansion in the making 7 The former St Patrick’s Seminary, now the International College of Management, Sydney
of the 2013 Baz Luhrmann-
directed film, The Great Gatsby. North Head Reserve Institute of Police Management)
Leave Fairy Bower Road At the top of Darley Road, onto Collins Beach Road down
by Vivian Street to turn turn right beneath the Parkhill through bushland alive with bird
2 2 3 3 left into Darley Road and Sandstone Arch 8 into North calls and native lizards. Paper-
T H E C O R S O
T H E C O R S O SOU TH STEYNE arrive at the seminary Head Reserve. Follow the right- barks, smooth-barked apple trees
and banksias are some of the
hand fork (leading to the
building.
W E N T W O RT H S T R E E T
native flora found in abundance.
SOU TH STEYNE
1 1 W E N T W O RT H S T R E E T Cabbage At the road’s end, follow the
track to your right across two
V I C T O R I A PA R A D E REDDALL STREET Tree Ba 5 5 6 6 J footbridges, then down steps
V I C T O R I A PA R A D E
Cabbage
Tree Bayy
ASHBURNER STREET
to Collins Beach 9. A stone
J
C L I F F S T R E E T
bridge and the beach marks
Manly Wharf ASHBURNER STREET C L I F F S T R E E T 4 4 cairn between the second foot-
Manly Wharf
REDDALL STREET
DARLEY ROAD ADDISON ROAD
Manly
Manly DARLEY ROAD B O W E R S T R E E T where Governor Arthur Phillip
Cove
Cove ADDISON ROAD STREET STREET B O W E R S T R E E T was speared by the Aboriginal
ESPLANA D E ESPLANA D E COLLEGE Wil-ee-ma-rin after a misunder-
COLLEGE
standing. The quiet waterfall
and dense bushland make it
FAIRY
W
W
FAIRY
possible to imagine this beach
S Y D N E Y
BOWER RD
BOWER RD
S Y D N E Y
7 7 H A R B O U R in pre-Colonial days.
H A R B O U R
R O A D
R O A D
COVE AVENUE EAST O O D S T R E E T N AT I O N A L Leave via a small set of stone
COVE AVENUE
N AT I O N A L
P A R K
P A R K
H I G H S T R E E T
H I G H S T R E E T
steps at the right-hand end of
MARSHALL STREET
O S B O R N E R O A D
O S B O R N E R O A D
A D D I S O N MARSHALL STREET DARLEY ROAD the beach which lead to a foot-
A D D I S O N
EAST O O D S T R E E T
path, then out into Stuart Street.
DARLEY ROAD
0 S T U A R T 8 8 Back to the Present
For memorable harbour views,
follow the direction of Stuart
Litt Litt le le
S T U A R T S T R E E T
0 S T R E E T
Manly Street through Little Manly
Manly
Cove Cove
M A N LY R O AD R O AD Point Reserve, passing by the
M A N LY
S Y D N E Y
P O I N T
P O I N T S Y D N E Y baths of Little Manly Cove 0.
H A R B O U R
P E A C E
P E A C E 9 9 H A R B O U R
N AT I O N A L
P A R K N AT I O N A L BEACH BEACH To continue this charming walk,
P A R K
P A R K
P A R K
Litt Litt le le J J turn left from Stuart Street and
J J
Manly
Manly
COLL I N S
Point
Point COLL I N S proceed to the end of Addison
Road. Manly Point Peace Park
offers a quiet place to take in

a panorama of the distant city.
Return down Addison Road,
making your way back to the
wharf via Stuart Street and the
East Esplanade. With its boat
sheds and timber yacht clubs,
Key the East Esplanade Park has
Walk route a nautical atmosphere and
is a relaxing place to meander.
Continue ahead to Manly Wharf,
which was your starting point,
0 metres 500 keeping an eye out for the little
0 yards 500 9 Collins Beach on the edge of Sydney penguins that inhabit the
Harbour National Park water around the wharf.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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150  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA

A Three-Hour Walk in Watsons Bay and Vaucluse

Tracing the perimeters of spectacular South Head, this walk weatherboard cottages on your
touches on the area’s Colonial connections and takes in a left, follow the street to its end
variety of ocean and harbourside terrain, from headlands and onto Camp Cove Beach 6.
with sweeping views and crashing waves, to secluded coves, It was here in 1788 that Captain
Arthur Phillip first stepped
white sandy beaches and the streets of one of Sydney’s most ashore after leaving Botany
desirable neighbourhoods. Bay to explore the coastline.
Camp Cove to
The Dunbar’s anchor is set into Watsons Bay
concrete here, while salvaged Take the wooden steps
personal effects are displayed at at the northern end
the Australian National Mari time of the cove to make
Museum (see pp96–7). the 40­minute return
Taking the steps down from The walk to South Head.
Gap, bear right into the entrance Above the steps are
of Sydney Harbour National Park. signs of Colonial
This single­lane roadway leads defences: a firing
through natural bushland into wall with rifle
2 Signal Station built in 1848, looking HMAS Watson Military Reserve.
out over Dunbar Head Follow the road up to visit the
Naval Memorial Chapel 5.
Macquarie Lighthouse to A large clear window inside the
Camp Cove chapel offers spectac ular views
The start of this walk is majestic of North Head and the Pacific
Macquarie Lighthouse (1883) Ocean. Resume your walk
1. A copy of the coun­ by taking the road out
try’s first lighthouse built of the reserve, and then Nudist Lady Bay beach, also known
in 1818 (see p139), it turn right into as Lady Jane beach
stands on the same site. Cliff Street.
Take the walk north­ Passing a
wards, passing by the row of
Signal Station 2 follow­
ing Old South Head 1 Bust, Macquarie
Road. Before the station Lighthouse
was built in 1848, a flag
was hoisted to warn the colony
of ships entering the harbour.
Continue along the footpath,
where a plaque marks the
location of Australia’s worst
maritime disaster. It was here
that the migrant ship Dunbar
crashed onto the rocks in a gale
in 1857 (see pp138–9). The only
survivor was hauled to safety up
the treacherous cleft in the cliff
face known as Jacob’s Ladder 3.
From here, follow the descending
path, arriving at the jutting
stony ledges of The Gap 4.








Key
8 Doyle’s well-known restaurant at Watsons Bay Walk route




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FOUR GUIDED W ALKS  151


the waters of tranquil Parsley
Bay 0. Crossing the bridge,
follow the pathway between
two houses to arrive on
Fitzwilliam Road. Continue right
along Fitzwilliam Road, turning
left into Wentworth Road to
reach the extravagant Vaucluse
House q, surrounded by exotic
gardens (see p138).
To finish your walk, make
your way along Coolong Road
to Nielsen Park (see p138) and
0 Suspension bridge across Parsley Bay Shark Bay w. Protected from
its namesake by a netted
slots; a cannon lying further enclosure, the natural setting
along. After passing Lady Bay and safe waters of this beach
Beach, you will reach Hornby make it a favourite for picnics.
Light house 7, which marks
the harbour’s entrance. Retrace
your steps to Camp Cove Beach.
Climb the western-end stairs to
Laings Point, a defence post in
World War II. A net stretching
across the harbour mouth was
anchored here to prevent
enemy ships entering.
Follow Pacific Street to Cove
Street, then along to Marine
Parade and Wharf Beach in
Watsons Bay 8 (see pp138–9).
Named after Robert Watson of
the First Fleet’s Sirius, this was
once first port of call for ships
entering the harbour. Nearby,
Doyle’s restaurant offers sea food 3 Dramatic rock cleft known as Jacob’s
with a view. Follow the parade Ladder near The Gap
past the baths and tea rooms.
Pilot boats 9 moored close by
guide cruise and con tainer ships Tips for Walkers
into the harbour. Starting point: Macquarie
Lighthouse.
Watsons Bay to Vaucluse Length: 8 km (5 miles).
Continue to secluded Gibsons Getting there: Take Bus 324 from
Beach, taking the footpath left Circular Quay, or Bus 387 from
through native shrubbery, then Bondi Junction. Return by Bus
right onto Hopetoun Avenue. 325 from Nielsen Park.
Turn into The Crescent, trac ing Stopping-off points: There are
the curve of this exclusive street public toilets and showers at Camp
around to Parsley Bay Reserve. Cove, Watsons Bay, Parsley Bay and
Nielsen Park. Food and refresh-
A short descent opens onto a ments are available through out
suspension bridge hung across
the walk at Watsons Bay, Parsley
Bay, Vaucluse and Nielsen Park.
The tea rooms at Vaucluse House
offer views of the gardens, and
the café at Nielsen Park has an
extensive menu. The walk covers
several harbour beaches where
you can swim safely. In warm
weather, bring a swimsuit, towel,
hat and sun screen, and allow
time for swimming, sun bathing
0 metres 500
q Children’s bedroom, one of the exhibits and picnicking.
0 yards 500 at Vaucluse House
For keys to symbols see back flap

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BEYOND


SYDNEY





Exploring Beyond Sydney 154–155
Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai
Chase 156–157
Hawkesbury Tour 158–159
Hunter Valley 160–161
Blue Mountains 162–163
Southern Highlands Tour 164–165

Royal National Park 166–167









































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154  BEY OND SY DNEY


Exploring Beyond Sydney Tamworth Dungog Port Macquarie
Gresford
W
Jerry Plains Hunter Booral
To the east, Sydney is bounded by the Pacific Ocean; l Singleton
o
to the west, by the Great Dividing Range. To the l Warkworth Paterson Clarence Town
e
north and south, within easy distance of the city, m Bulga Branxton Hawks Nest
are superb beaches and stretches of coastal scenery, i HUNTER VALLEY Williams
while inland, you will encounter waterfalls, deep valleys Broke Maitland Port Stephens

and fascinating flora and wildlife. On the Hawkesbury Howes Valley Raymond Nelson Bay
Terrace

River, to the north and west of the city, are settlements Cessnock Kurri Kurri

of historical as well as scenic interest while, further N Wollombi
north, the Hunter River meanders through sloping Three Sisters towering a Putty Yeng o Newcastle
vineyards. The excursions on pages 156–67 offer the over the Jamison Valley t Toronto
i
visitor the chance to sample the rich variety of Sydney o National Belmont
landscapes from the exhilarating to the tranquil. Mudgee Capertree n Pa r k Bucketty Morisset
Glen Davis a Swansea
l


Cullen Bullen Colo Macdonald Wyong
P
Colo
Portland r Heights The Entrance
a
Bathurst
Meadow Flats k Gosford
Walang Zig Zag HAWKESBURY TOUR Hawkesbury
Orange, Lithgow Railway
Dubbo Tarana Berambing Kurrajong Woy Woy
Mount Victoria
Richmond
Hampton Blackheath Windsor PITTWATER &
MOUNTAINS
KU-RING-
Oberon BLUE Springwood GAI CHASE
Façade of Hope Estate in the Hunter Valley Katoomba Penrith Hornsby Mona Vale
Black Springs Jenolan Wallacia Parramatta Manly
Caves
Sights at a Glance Sydney
Bankstown
1 Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Chase Blue Mountains Lake Liverpool Maroubra
Burragorang
National Park Porters Retreat
2 Hawkesbury Tour Camden Cronulla
National Park
3 Hunter Valley Nattai
4 Blue Mountains Campbelltown
ROYAL
5 Southern Highlands Tour NATIONAL
6 Royal National Park Picton Appin PARK
0 kilometres 50 Nattai
Richlands
0 miles 25 Bullio
Getting Around Taralga Wollongong
All the areas covered in these Myrtleville
excursions can be easily reached Wollondilly Bowral Port Kembla
by road from Sydney. Freeways and Chatsbury Moss Vale Dapto
motorways take travellers part of the Robertson Shellharbour
way to the Southern Highlands, Blue Tarlo Brayton
Kiama
Mountains and Hunter Valley, while SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS TOUR
Kangaroo
the other areas are accessible on sealed, Valley
well-signposted major roads. A number Berry
of tour operators offer guided one-day, Canberra Seven Mile
or longer, tours to the Blue Mountains, Beach
Hunter Valley, Southern Highlands Bungonia Shoalhaven Mor ton Bomaderry
and South Coast, and parts of the National Nowra Culburra
Hawkes bury region. Sydney Trains
and NSW TrainLink have regular train Pa r k Currarong
services to the Blue Mountains, Royal Wandandian
National Park and to parts of the area Nerriga Sassafras
covered by the Southern Highlands Jervis Bay
Tour. Ferries offer access to some Grand old house in Kiama, Conjola
parts of the Hawkesbury River. near the Southern Highlands
Three Sisters at sunset, Blue Mountains Bega
154-155_EW_Sydney.indd 154 29/05/17 12:19 pm

BEY OND SY DNEY  155



Tamworth Dungog Port Macquarie
Gresford
W
Jerry Plains Hunter Booral
o
Singleton
l
Warkworth Clarence Town
l
Paterson
e
Williams Hawks Nest
Bulga Branxton
m
i
Broke Maitland Port Stephens

HUNTER VALLEY

Raymond Nelson Bay

Howes Valley Cessnock
Terrace
Kurri Kurri


Wollombi
N
Putty Newcastle
a
Yeng o
t
Toronto
i
National
Belmont
o
Mudgee n Pa r k Bucketty
Glen Davis Capertree a Morisset Swansea
l


Cullen Bullen Colo Macdonald Wyong
P
Colo
Portland r Heights The Entrance
a
Bathurst
Meadow Flats k Gosford
Walang Zig Zag HAWKESBURY TOUR Hawkesbury
Orange, Lithgow Railway
Dubbo Tarana Berambing Kurrajong Woy Woy
Mount Victoria
Richmond
Hampton Blackheath Windsor PITTWATER &
MOUNTAINS Penrith Hornsby GAI CHASE
Oberon BLUE Springwood KU-RING-
Katoomba
Mona Vale
Black Springs Jenolan Parramatta Manly
Caves Wallacia
Sydney Hawkesbury River ferry service departing
Bankstown from Palm Beach
Lake Liverpool Maroubra
Burragorang
Porters Retreat
Camden Cronulla
National Park
Nattai Campbelltown Key
Blue Mountains
ROYAL Freeway or motorway
NATIONAL
Picton Appin PARK Major road
Minor road
Richlands
Nattai
Bullio Main railway
Minor railway
Taralga Wollongong
Myrtleville
Bowral Port Kembla
Dapto
Chatsbury Moss Vale
Wollondilly
Robertson Shellharbour
Tarlo Brayton
Kiama
Kangaroo
Valley
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS TOUR
Berry
Canberra
Seven Mile
Beach
Bungonia Shoalhaven Mor ton Bomaderry
National Nowra Culburra
Pa r k
Currarong
Wandandian
Nerriga Sassafras
Jervis Bay
Conjola
Garie Beach, a popular surfing spot in Royal National Park
Bega
For keys to symbols see back flap
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156  BEY OND SY DNEY

1 Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Chase

Pittwater and the adjacent Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park
lie on Sydney’s northernmost outskirts. They are bounded
to the north by Broken Bay, at the mouth of the Hawkesbury Brisbane Water
National Park
River (see pp158–9). Sparkling waterways and golden beaches
are set against the unspoiled backdrop of the national
park. Picnicking, bushwalking, surfing, boating, sailing
and windsurfing are popular pastimes with visitors. The Patonga
Hawkes bury River system curls around an ancient sandstone
landscape rich in Aboriginal rock art, and flora and fauna.
Flint and
Steel Point
Coal and H a w k e s b u r y R i v e r Juno
Candle Creek Point
The pretty inlet is Gunyah Hungry
typical of eroded Beach Beach Great Mackerel
valleys formed dur ing Beach
the last Ice Age. Water
that melted from the W e s t H e a d R o a d
ice caps flooded the Challenger
valleys to form the Head
bays and creeks of
Broken Bay. C o w a n C r e e k Refuge Bay The Basin


Cowan K u - r i n g - g a i C h a s e
Point
N a t i o n a l P a r k
Towlers Bay
Lovett Bay
Cottage
Point Coal and Candle Creek
McCarrs Creek

Smiths Creek
Akuna
Bay
Akuna Bay
The isolated marina, general store General San Martin Drive
and café serve the Hawkesbury
River boating fraternity.
McCarrs Creek Road

Aboriginal Art in Ku-ring-gai Chase Ryde,
Chatswood
Ku-ring-gai Chase has literally
hundreds of Aboriginal rock art 0 kilometres
sites, providing an insight into 2
one of the world’s oldest cultures. 0 miles 1
The most common are rock
engravings, generally made Key
in groups with as many as 100
individual figures. They include Major road
whales up to 8 m (26 ft) long, Secondary road
fish, sharks, wallabies, echidnas Minor road
and Ancestral Spirits such as
Daramulan, who created the Aboriginal rock art near the Basin, National Park
land, its people and animals. Ku-ring-gai Chase Ferry route
Walk route




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PIT T W A TER AND KU-RING-GAI CHASE  157

Palm Beach Wharf
Palm Beach, a haven for
sea birds such as pelicans,
is popular with sun-
seekers. It is also the base
Brisbane Water for the boats that visit and
B r o k e n B a y
National Park deliver supplies to the
isolated communities on
Pittwater and the
Lion Island Hawkesbury.

Barrenjoey
Head
Flint and Pittwater
Steel Point West This graceful finger of
Head water separates Palm
Beach from Ku-ring-gai
Palm Chase. Pittwater
Great Mackerel Beach boasts secluded
Beach
beaches, picnic areas
and several hamlets
that can only be
reached by water.
Whale
Beach
Pittwater
The Basin Careel Bay
K u - r i n g - g a i C h a s e Longnose
N a t i o n a l P a r k Point
Towlers Bay Barrenjoey Road Avalon Whale Beach
Beach Spectacular houses
Bilgola
Plateau seem to hug the cliffs
overlooking this fine
Lovett Bay Scotland Bilgola surf beach. The Palm
Beach
Beach Peninsula’s
Island Newport beaches are often less
McCarrs Creek Church Beach congested than those
Point
closer to the city.
Bungan
Beach Tips for Travellers
Distance from Sydney: About
30 km (19 miles). Duration of
journey: About 45 minutes to
Mona Vale Beach. Getting there:
Mona Vale
Mona Vale Road Beach Take Military Rd on the city’s
North Shore and cross the Spit
Bridge. Follow Pittwater Rd to
Ryde, Mona Vale Beach. When to go:
Chatswood The Christmas holiday period is
Dee Why,
Pittwater Road
Manly the peak season and beaches can
be crowded. Ku-ring-gai Chase
offers everything from shoreline
Bilgola Beach to bushwalks and can be enjoyed
A small community year round. Where to stay
of residents backs this and eat: Contact the visitors’
patrolled surf beach information centre for full details
set against a pretty of facilities. Tourist information:
rainforested valley. Bobbin Head Info Centre.
Wooden steps Tel 9472 8949. Open 9am–4pm
lead down from the Mon–Fri. Closed Christmas Day.
ridge above through ∑ nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
coastal heathland.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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158  BEY OND SY DNEY


2 Hawkesbury Tour

Australia’s longest eastward-flowing river, the
Hawkesbury-Nepean, forms Sydney’s northern
and western boundaries. It was at first thought to
be two separate rivers until further exploration revealed
that they were in fact one. The section known as the
Hawkesbury runs from the Colo River Valley to Broken
Bay in the north (see pp156–7).
Settled in 1794, by 1799 the Hawkesbury Valley’s
small farms produced three-quarters of the colony’s grain.
Its riverscape is little changed since then and much of the
5 Tizzana Winery
area remains a quiet backwater. It is an area rich in relics A touch of Tuscany on the banks
of the early Colonial period, including towns and villages of the Hawkesbury, this sandstone
established during the Macquarie era of 1810–19 (see p26). winery was built in 1887 by Dr
It is also a place of great scenic grandeur, with magnificent Thomas Fiaschi. It is open to visitors
on weekends and public holidays.
vistas of one of Australia’s most beautiful rivers.
Singleton
4 Ebenezer 6 Portland Reach
Uniting Church On the river, pleasure
Built in 1809, the craft have replaced the Colo River
church and its 1817 grain barges of the past,
schoolhouse have but the area’s farming
been superbly res­ community survives.
tored. The tree under
which services were
first held still stands. Kurranjong
heights
3 Colo River Drive
This pretty route travels
along the Putty Road to
Colo, then follows the
river to Lower Portland.





Ebenezer •


Cattai

Pitt
Town
2 Tebbutts Observatory
John Tebbutt (1834–1916), an early amateur 7 Sackville Ferry
astronomer, built this observatory in Windsor It only takes a few
in 1854, where he studied the solar system minutes to cross the
and discovered a comet in 1861. river by cable ferry.
Parramatta
1 Windsor
Built in 1815, the Macquarie Arms Hotel
is just one of Windsor’s fine early Colonial
buildings. Many others, including several
by architect Francis Greenway (see p116),
remain from the town laid out in 1810.





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HA WKESBUR Y T OUR  159



0 Settlers Arms Inn
Once an overnight stop for stage coaches to the
Hunter Valley (see pp160–61), this atmospheric 1836
hotel is in the largely unchanged village of St Albans.






9 Webbs Creek Ferry
Opened in 1908, this cable ferry
gives access to the west ern
bank of the Hawkesbury q Old General
for the drive beside Cemetery
the Macdonald River. Macdonald River A stark reminder of the
hardships and tragedies
8 Lower Portland Ferry of early settlement, this is
If taking the Colo River the resting place of six
Drive, cross the river here First Fleeters (see p24).
by ferry for the River Road
to Wisemans Ferry.

Hawkesbury River Gosford
Colo River



w Old Great North Road
The convict-built road with
its massive buttresses
was completed in 1828.
Part of it still remains.
Maroota
Tips for Drivers
Distance from Sydney: 55 km
Cornelia (35 miles) to Windsor.
Hornsby Duration of tour: About 3½ hours,
excluding stops.
Getting there and back: Follow
e Wisemans Ferry M4 to James Ruse Drive (53) just
This small village before Parramatta, then Windsor
on a bend in the Road (40). To return from Wise-
Hawkesbury River mans Ferry, take the Old Northern
is where ex-convict
Cattai Solomon Wiseman Road (36) to Middle Dural, then
started his ferry Galston Road to Hornsby. From
here, follow Pacific Highway south.
service, Australia’s When to go: Peak season is from
oldest, in 1827.
December to February. The river,
national parks and small towns
can be enjoyed year round.
Where to stay and eat: Cafés,
restaurants and accommodation
Key can be found at Windsor and
Wisemans Ferry. The Settlers
Tour route
Arms Inn at St Albans has a few
Scenic route rooms, and a bar and restaurant.
Other road Tourist information:
Hawkesbury Information Centre.
Tel 4560 4620. ∑ hawkesbury
0 kilometres 5
tourism.com.au
0 miles 5
For keys to symbols see back flap
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160  BEY OND SY DNEY

3 Hunter Valley

Some of the earliest vineyards to be planted in Australia Singleton,
were on the fertile flats of the Hunter River in the Upper Hunter Sweetwater Creek
1830s, developing a thriving industry in fortified
wine. Since the 1970s, it has evolved into a premium Terrace
wine district (see pp184–5). With some 150 wineries
and cellar doors, the area is a great weekend trip from Old North Road Range
Sydney. Hot-air ballooning, golf and horse riding are
other popular activities in the region. The Jazz in the
Vines festival takes place in October, while some of the
world’s biggest acts have performed at Hope Estate,
including Bruce Springsteen, Elton John and Hermitage Road Rothbury Creek
the Rolling Stones. Many wineries open daily
but it is best to phone ahead and check. Hunter Estate
Marsh Estate
Brokenwood Sutherland
Under the ownership Deaseys Road
of Ian Riggs, this Mcdonalds Road
medium-sized winery
has produced some of
the region’s finest Shiraz Rosemount Mary Anne’s Creek
from the Graveyard Estate, Upper
vineyard, as well as an Hunter
excellent Sémillon.


Broke Road
Brian
Lindemans McGuigan
In 1842, Dr Henry John Glenguin
Lindeman resigned his Tyrrell’s Brokenwood
Wines
naval commission to
establish a vineyard in Tamburlaine
the Hunter Valley. His Tulloch
company has been Pokolbin
a major producer in
the Australian wine Debeyers Road
industry ever since. Hungerford Pokolbin Creek
Hill
Draytons
Oakey Creek Road
Drayton Family
Estate
Personalities of the Hunter Valley
The wine industry seems to attract or create McWilliam’s
larger-than-life characters. Among the
legends was the great Len Evans, Marrowbone Road
writer, wine judge, bon vivant Saddler’s
and founder of the ambitious Petersons Creek
Hope Estate and Evans Family
Wines, as well as Tower Estate. Broken Back Range
His contemporaries included
Max Lake, a Sydney surgeon
who started Lake’s Folly as a
weekend winery, and the late
Murray Tyrrell, patriarch of
a wine-making family that
produced its first Hunter
vintage in 1864 and proudly
retains its independence. Len Evans checking grape vines




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HUNTER V ALLEY  161

Hope Estate
On the site of the late Len
Branxton,
Wyndham Estate Evans’ former winery,
The Rothbury Estate,
Hope Estate hosts dinners
Black Creek in the winery’s cask hall, as
well as open-air concerts.


The Convent
Belbourie A restored 1909 convent
is now an elegantly
appointed guest house,
with the Pepper Tree
vineyard and winery
and Circa 1876 restaurant
only a short walk away.
Sutherland
Branxton Road
Allanmere
Rothbury
Mcdonalds Road
Lake’s Folly
Australian growers stopped planting
Palmers Lane
Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the 19th
Calais Peacock century. But in the 1960s, former owner
Estates Hill Max Lake reintroduced the variety.
First Creek
Brian Greta
McGuigan
Glenguin
Tower
Estate
Allandale Kelman Vineyard
Tamburlaine This boutique vineyard Tips for Travellers
Tulloch nestles on a quiet corner near Distance from Sydney: 160 km
Oakey Creek Mount View. It grows Sémillon, (100 miles).
Debeyers Road Chardonnay, Shiraz, Muscat and Duration of journey: About
Pokolbin Creek Tempranillo grapes to make 2 hours from the centre of Sydney.
traditional premium wines. Getting there and back:
Take the Sydney–Newcastle F3
O’Connors Road
freeway north of Sydney and
follow the signs to Cessnock.
Another route is through the
Oakey Creek Road Allandale Road
picturesque Wollombi Valley.
Allow about 3 hours as there
are unsealed roads.
When to go: Year round. The
Marrowbone Road Kurri kurri best grapes are harvested
Saddler’s Mount View Road between January and March.
Creek Cessnock Where to stay and eat: There is
a wide variety of motels, guest-
Briar Sydney houses, self-catering cottages
Ridge and cabins, cafés and restaurants.
Bellbird Creek Wollombi Road Visitor information: Hunter
Valley Wine Country Tourism,
455 Wine Country Drive,
Pokolbin. Tel 4990 0900.
∑ winecountry.com.au
Key Further afield: The Upper Hunter
Bellbird vineyards are about 40 minutes
0 kilometres 2 Main road by car northwest of Pokolbin.
0 miles 1 Unsealed road
Wollombi,
Sydney For keys to symbols see back flap
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162  BEY OND SY DNEY

4 Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, prevented
westward expansion of the European colony until 1813, when explorers
Gregory Blaxland, William Lawson and William Charles Wentworth
found a way across. The magnificent scenery, characterized by rugged
cliffs and rock formations, ravines and waterfalls, is best appreciated
on the bushwalks that wind along cliff tops and through valleys.
The restaurants, cafés and antique shops in the centre of Katoomba Zig Zag Railway
will tempt the less energetic. The mountains are named for the Steam trains travelled this
blue haze, caused by light striking eucalyptus-oil particles in the air. railway until fire destroyed
the historic carriages in
2013; services resumed
KEY Zig Zag in 2017.
1 Mount York 5 Mount Banks railway
2 Victoria Falls 6 Kings Tableland
3 The Grose River flows 7 Jamison Valley
between the two roads crossing 8 Leura village is listed by the
the mountains. National Trust. Nearby are Leura
4 The Cathedral of Ferns is a Cascades, floodlit at night and
remnant of the temperate rain- one of the pret tiest sights
forest that once covered this area. in the mountains.

Jenolan caves
Grose Valley from
Govetts Leap
Considered by many to
be the most imposing
view in the Blue
Mountains, a great
panorama with a series
of ridges stretches into
the far distance.

Three Sisters
This giant rock for mation
near Echo Point takes its
name from an Aboriginal
legend. The story tells of
three sisters turned to stone
by their witch-doctor father
to keep them safe from an
evil bunyip or monster.
Jenolan Caves
About 55 km (34 miles) south-
west of Mount Victoria is a magical
series of spectacular underground
limestone caves with icy blue rivers
and fleecy limestone formations.
They are surrounded by an
extensive wildlife reserve. People
have been making the trek here
since the caves were discovered
in 1838, staying originally in the
Grand Arch cave and later in Key
the Edwardian splendour of
Jenolan Caves House, which The vividly coloured Pool of Cerberus Major road
still operates today. at Jenolan Caves Other road
Suggested walk




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BL UE MOUNT AINS  163


Mount Wilson
A picturesque village with
cultivated gar dens and
exotic trees, it has been
called a “little corner of
the northern hemisphere”.
Some gardens are open
to the public in spring
and autumn.




Mount Tomah Botanic Gardens
This superbly landscaped garden,
specializing in cool-climate plants,
has sweeping views over the
Grose Valley.




Richmond








Norman Lindsay Gallery and Museum
The stone cottage is home to a collection
of works by artist and writer Norman Lindsay
(1879–1967).



Tips for Travellers
Distance from Sydney: About
105 km (65 miles).
Duration of journey: About
90 minutes to Wentworth Falls.
Getting there and back: Follow
Metroad route 4 and the Great
Western Highway. Return by Bells
Line of Road to Windsor. State Rail
has regular services to the area.
An Explorer Bus runs from
Katoomba train station at 9:30am
on weekends and public holidays.
When to go: Year round. Always
be prepared for the cold, especially
when hiking, as the weather can
change rapidly in all seasons.
Where to stay and eat: Contact
the Visitor Information Centre.
Tourist information: Blue
0 kilometres 5 Wentworth Falls Mountains Visitor Information
An impressive double water fall is Centre, Echo Point, Katoomba.
0 miles 3
the starting point for the National Tel 1300 653 408. ∑ visitblue
Pass track, a challenging four-hour mountains.com.au
return walk to the next valley.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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164  BEY OND SY DNEY


5 Southern Highlands Tour

This easily accessible area to the south of Sydney is often
said to resemble Great Britain more than Australia. It
is actually a delightful combination of both: Australian
high country and coastal hinterland with many European
qualities. It is a land of sweeping hills and soaring valleys,
dramatic waterfalls and peaceful streams; of quaint
villages, cosy restaurants, antique shops and elegant
places to stay. The tour takes in spectac ular Seven Mile 8 Bowral
Beach and the pretty town of Berry before heading to This highlands town holds a famous
picturesque Kangaroo Valley, sleepy Bundanoon and spring tulip festival every year and is
the antique shops and wineries of Berrima and Bowral. home to cricket’s Bradman Museum.
An exhilarating adjunct to the tour is nearby Minna­
murra Falls with its boardwalk through rainforest. Wombeyan
caves Mittagong
Bowral
7 Berrima
By-passed by the
railway in the 19th
century, the only
Georgian village
in the highlands
remains one Moss Vale
of the most
picturesque. Sutton Forest
Bundanoon Creek
Goulburn Belmore Falls

6 Bundanoon
Romantic guesthouses
and a glow-worm cave
make this town a popular
Kangaroo River
weekend destination.
Tallowa Dam
5 Fitzroy Falls
Part of Morton National
Park, the falls plunge Morton
80 m (262 ft) into the
subtropi cal rainforest National Park
below. The falls lookout River
has access for the Shoalhaven
disabled and walking
trails with stunning views.
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5


4 Kangaroo Valley
Hampden Bridge, a
Key castellated suspen sion
bridge, crosses the
Tour route
Kangaroo River at this
Scenic route (alternative) small village. The river is an
Other roads idyllic place for canoeing.




164-165_EW_Sydney.indd 164 29/05/17 12:19 pm

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS T OUR  165




Berrima Gaol
Completed in 1839 by
con vict labour, this Georgian
sandstone jail is featured in
Rolf Boldrewood’s classic 1888
bushranging novel, Robbery
Under Arms. The fictitious
character Captain Starlight,
who escapes from Berrima,
describes it as “the largest, most
severe, the most dreaded of all
prisons in New South Wales”.

1 Kiama
The historic town began life in the
Mittagong 1820s as a port for shipping cedar.
Its blowhole can spurt water as
high as 60 m (200 ft). Wollongong




Albion Park 2 Seven Mile Beach
Part of a national park and best seen from
Robertson Shellharbour Gerroa’s Black Head, the beach is flanked
by dunes and hardy coastal vegetation,
Minnamurra including forest and swamp. It is a great
Falls fishing, swimming and picnicking spot.
Belmore Falls
Jamberoo
Budderoo
National
Park
Tips for Drivers
Kangaroo River Gerringong Distance from Sydney: 120 km
(75 miles).
Duration of tour: About 3½
hours, excluding stops.
Getting there and back: Take
Metroad route 1, then follow
the F3 freeway and Princes
Hwy (1) to Kiama. Return via the
F5 free way (31) from Mittagong,
Bomaderry
River then Metroad route 5 into
the city.
When to go: Year round.
Shoalhaven
Nowra The beaches are best in summer,
and the gardens are at their peak
in spring and autumn.
Where to stay and eat: Eating
3 Berry places, hotels and guesthouses
This town, surrounded are found all over the area.
by lush dairy country, Tourist information:
is well known for its Kiama Visitor Centre, Blowhole
4 Kangaroo Valley main street lined with Point, Kiama. Tel 4232 3322.
Hampden Bridge, a shady trees, antique and ∑ kiama.com.au
castellated suspen sion craft shops, tea rooms Southern Highlands Visitor
bridge, crosses the and historic buildings. Information Centre, 62–70 Main St,
Kangaroo River at this The Berry Museum, Mittagong. Tel 4871 2888.
small village. The river is an built in 1886, is in ∑ southern-highlands.com.au
idyllic place for canoeing. a former bank.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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166  BEY OND SY DNEY

6 Royal National Park

Designated as a national park in 1879, the “Royal” is the oldest
national park in Australia. It covers 150 square km (58 sq miles)
of landscape typical of the Sydney Basin sandstone. To the
east, waves from the Pacific Ocean have undercut the sandstone
and produced majestic coastal cliffs broken occasionally by
small creeks and some spectacular beaches. Streams flowing
north and east have incised deep river valleys. Heath
vegetation on the plateaux merges with woodlands on
the upper slopes. The park is ideal for bushwalking,
picnicking, camping, swimming and birdwatching. Hacking River
Boating, fishing and canoe ing are
common water sports.
Audley
A popular picnic area since
the Edwardian era, it has
a pavili on that was built J
in 1901. Look out for
the 1920s dance hall
also in the park.


















J
Lady Carrington Drive
Named after a governor’s wife and now closed
to vehicles, the road is crossed by 15 creeks and
is delightful to walk or cycle. It also leads to the
track to Palona Cave. J

KEY
1 Garie Beach is a popular surf J
beach accessible by road.
2 Figure Eight Pool
3 Werrong Naturist Beach
4 The Forest Path follows a circular
route, passing through subtrop ical
rainforest.
5 Heathcote
6 Cronulla
7 Jibbon Lagoon Key J
8 Little Marley Beach Main road
Walking track




166-167_EW_Sydney.indd 166 29/05/17 12:20 pm

RO Y AL NA TIONAL P ARK  167

Bundeena
Enclosed by national park on three sides, the
small settlement at the mouth of the Hacking River
may be reached by ferry from Cronulla or by road
through the national park.









Jibbon Head
Guided tours of the
Jibbon Head Aboriginal
rock engravings site
may be arranged.
J




Deer Pool
One of many fresh-
water pools in the
park, this sheltered
spot is on the track
from Bundeena
Drive to Marley and
J
Little Marley.
J
Tips for Travellers
Distance from Sydney: 34 km
(21 miles).
Duration of journey: About
1 hour from the centre of Sydney.
Getting there: Follow Metroad
route 1 south to Sutherland,
then the signs to Heathcote and
Wollon gong. The turn-off to Farnell
Avenue and the park entrance is
shortly after Sutherland. There is
an entrance fee for vehicles.
When to go: Year round, but
Wattamolla Lagoon conditions for walking in summer
J
This pretty picnic spot has a lagoon can be hot so allow for this.
with a waterfall at its edge and a If bushwalking, carry fresh water
protected ocean beach. at all times and check on the fire
danger at the Visitors’ Centre.
0 kilometres 4
Where to stay and eat: There are
0 miles 2 kiosks at Audley, Garie Beach and
Wattamolla. Camping details can
be obtained at the Visitors’ Centre.
Tourist information: Royal
Curracurrang National Park Visitors’ Centre,
This rock formation is about a Farnell Ave, Audley. Tel 9542
1-hour hike from Wattamolla 0648. ∑ nationalparks.nsw.
Lagoon. Sea eagles and terns gov.au
nest in caves at the base of Guided Walks, Adven ture Tours
this rocky cove, which also and Kayak Hire: Tel 9544 5294.
has a secluded swimming ∑ bundeenakayaks.com.au
hole and waterfall.
For keys to symbols see back flap

166-167_EW_Sydney.indd 167 29/05/17 12:20 pm

168-169_EW_Sydney.indd 168 27/05/2015 13:58

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 170–179
Where to Eat and Drink 180–197

Shops and Markets 198–207
Entertainment in Sydney 208–215

















































168-169_EW_Sydney.indd 169 27/05/2015 13:58

170  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Australia’s emergence as a major tourist back packer hostels for those on a budget,
destination in the 1980s, coupled with a and homestay accom modation, generally
building boom before the 2000 Olympic outside the main city areas. History buffs can
Games in Sydney, resulted in a large pool find a range of accom modation in buildings
of quality and good-value accommodation with interesting post-European-settlement
choices. Many of those hotels have under- heritage, particularly from Colonial times to
gone extensive refurbishments in the the early 1900s, in The Rocks, the finger
intervening years to meet the modern needs wharves at Walsh Bay and Woolloomooloo.
of a thriving visitor market. In addition to The hotels listed on pages 174–9 are among
hotels, Sydney has an impressive array of self- the best in Sydney and cater to a variety of
catering apartments, numerous well-located different budgets and requirements.

Where to Look
Many pubs provide basic
It is easily possible to find accommodation, usually on
accommodation within most the floor above the ground-
price ranges throughout Sydney, floor bar areas. Bear in mind it
although a sought-after central can be noisy at night, especially
city location with or without at week ends and if live music is
harbour views comes with playing. Check closing times and
the heftiest price tag. entertainment before booking
Cheaper accommodation can if you are a light sleeper.
be found in the Kings Cross and
Darlinghurst area. Choices here How to Book
range from backpacker hostels
to small boutique and budget It is advisable to book well in
chain hotels. Many of the older advance, especially for December
low-rise buildings may be three and January, the Sydney Gay
storeys but do not have lifts Eating alfresco at the Admiral Collingwood and Lesbian Mardi Gras in
owing to heritage regulations. If Lodge (see p177) February to early March, Easter,
mobility is an issue, ask about the school holidays and when
stairs and ground- floor rooms. vibrant and bohemian inner major sporting events are held.
In The Rocks area, you can west suburbs of Newtown, Bookings can be made online,
opt for a bed-and-breakfast in a Enmore and Glebe are home to by phone or email, or through
converted Colonial-era building, numerous affordable accommo- a travel agent. A credit card
a youth hostel with views from dation choices, while still being number is generally required
the rooftop deck or the opulence close to the city. to secure your booking. Check
of a five-star luxury hotel. The popular beachside cancellation requirements. Many
The hotels around Chinatown suburbs of Bondi, Coogee and operators charge no cancellation
and Surry Hills offer good value Manly are a little way out of fees as long as minimum notice
for shoppers and foodies and the centre of Sydney but are periods are met, which could
are also within easy reach of the accessible by public transport be anything from 24 hours to
city centre, while Darling Harbour and provide the opportunity two weeks or more.
hotels tend to the grander end to enjoy beach life during the The Sydney Visitor Centre
of the scale, with Sydney’s warmer months. books certain hotels and has a
largest luxury hotel, the Sofitel.
The adjoining reinvigo rated
Pyrmont area is a good choice
for accom mo dation, blending
contempo rary fit-outs inside
heritage buildings.
Quaint Paddington has
limited offerings, with one
low-rise hotel and a scattering
of bed-and-breakfasts.
Just beyond the city fringe,
imaginative urban planning
has brought contemporary
accommodation to the creative
hub of Chippendale, while the The stunning Full Harbour View junior suite at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney (see p177)
Detail of hand-painted didgeridoos



170-173_EW_Sydney.indd 170 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  171


wealth of options on its website.
Australian Accommodation
Services (“Ausacom”) arranges
bookings for all styles of accom­
mo dation. If you belong to a
motoring association, ask about
discounts through hotels affili­
ated with the NRMA (National
Roads and Motorists’ Association).
NSW TrainLink travel centres
at major railway stations offer
a comprehensive service, and
AFTA travel agencies will book
most major hotels. Tourist
information centres can also
offer valuable advice about
where to stay in Sydney.
The opulence and understated elegance of The Langham (see p179)
Discount Rates Special Offers
often reduce the daily rate for
The best way to secure discount bookings of five and seven days Hotels promote special deals
rates is by booking directly on or longer. Asking for a room heavily on their own websites,
the accommodation providers’ without a harbour or ocean view so check regularly before your
website. Virtually all accom mo­ is another good way of reducing trip for any deals. They also often
dation styles, from hostels to the costs. (You may still be able cooperate with airlines, theatres
luxury, offer online booking. to secure an upgrade at check­ and entertainment and sporting
Most will show their best online in if the hotel isn’t full.) event promoters to provide
flexible rate – a sensible choice The booking service at the package deals that include
if there is a chance you may Sydney Coach Terminal can discounted accommodation.
need to cancel or change the often arrange discounts off the Combined special event and
booking. The best rates are price of regular hotel accom­ accommodation packages can
usually for those with “no mo dation rates for those who be a good way to snare a ticket
cancellation” clauses attached, book in person on the day a to an otherwise sold­out event.
so beware if your plans may room is required (this does not
change. It is always worth normally apply to budget hotels).
asking for the corporate rate at Disabled Travellers
which hotels give discounts for Most new hotels now provide
group or company bookings. Hidden Extras wheelchair access and toilets
At the weekend there are Breakfast is usually charged on for the disabled, but many older
fewer business clients in the city top of the room rate in the more establishments will have more
centre, so this is the time when expensive hotels. It is best to limited facilities.
prices are frequently cheaper in avoid consuming any of the Spinal Cord Injuries
the top hotels. Smaller operators contents of the mini­bar as Australia’s web site provides
alcohol and snacks are usually information regarding getting
much more expensive here around (such as public transport,
than in shops. Some B&Bs only driving and car hire) and where
provide breakfast provisions or there are public toilets. Its
cooking facilities and charge online publication RollAwayz
extra for providing a cooked opens in Google Earth to show
breakfast. Free Wi­Fi is widely the location of wheelchair­
available, although in­room accessible accom modation
fixed broadband connections across Australia.
may incur extra charges. Also, Sydney­based Time Flys
be wary of telephone charges. Travel focuses on planning
There will almost certainly be travel, including hotels and
a considerable mark­up on any specialized transport for
calls you make from your room. the disabled.
In general, tipping is not wide­
spread, but it is expected in the
more expensive hotels. Make a Travelling with Children
note of the check­out time when Many of the larger hotels
you arrive, or negotiate a late offer deals that allow children
The stunning 1850s sandstone façade of the check­out, since a surcharge (usually aged up to 12, some­
Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel (see p178) may be incurred if you stay later. times 14) to stay for free when




170-173_EW_Sydney.indd 171 29/05/17 12:16 pm

172  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


and to public transport, and
the moderate price usually
includes breakfast.

Gay and Lesbian
Accommodation
Lesbian and gay visitors are
welcome in all of Sydney’s
hotels. In fact, quite a number of
places cater primarily to same-
sex couples, particularly in small
hotels in the inner-city areas
of Darlinghurst, Paddington,
Newtown and Surry Hills.
Bet’s B&B, a self-contained studio in the suburb of Annandale (see p175) At the IGLTA (International Gay
and Lesbian Travel Association)
Budget Accommodation
sharing a room with parents, and the Gay and Lesbian
though there may be a charge As a favoured destination for Tourism Australia websites, you
for extra bedding. many young travellers, Sydney can search for gay or gay-friendly
has a large number of hostels travel-related businesses,
that cater specifically to their including hotels, guesthouses
Self-Catering Apartments needs. Standards vary widely, and tours. Planet Dwellers
Accommodation including full but, at their best, hostels offer arranges accommo dation as well
kitchen and laundry facilities excellent value. as “gaybourhood” walking tours.
offers the traveller greater It is best to book in advance
independence. In addition or call hotels ahead of arriving
to comfort, they also provide to make sure a room or bed is Camping
good value because the living available. Kings Cross and the Although not an option in the
space is larger than standard southern end of the city near city itself (other than on the
hotel rooms and the prices Central Station have the largest harbour at Cockatoo Island,
are competitive. concentration of cheap see p108), camping is available in
All the “apartment” hotels in accommodation. several national parks close by.
the listings on pages 174–9 offer Summer House and Original The Royal National Park (see
self-catering facilities. Many of Backpackers are smaller hostels pp166–7) has a camp site with
these rival the big hotels for offering good facilities in restored facilities at Bonnie Vale, just
location and features. Most buildings close to Kings Cross. outside Bundeena. Free bush or
are professionally managed by Original Backpackers also offers “walk-in” camping is allowed in
devel opers, with many properties inexpensive secure parking. many other places, but call the
to choose from (see p173). Blue Parrot Backpackers is park in advance to obtain the
situated in a converted mansion necessary camping permit. At
in the quieter end of Potts Point, The Basin camp site in Ku-ring-
Homestays with a sunny garden courtyard gai Chase National Park (see
European-style bed-and- and large, cosy common room pp156–7), there are toilets, cold
breakfast accommodation in complete with fireplace. showers, barbecue facilities and
a private home can be an ideal YHA Australia is a useful a phone. There are basic camp
way to experience a city. There source of information when sites near Glenbrook, Woodford,
are limited options close to the planning your trip, offering Blackheath and Wentworth Falls
city centre, especially Surry Hills, advice about travel deals, as well in the Blue Mountains National
the inner west and beachside as helping you decide on your Park (see pp162–3). Jenolan
suburbs. Most, but not all, bed- itinerary and find places to stay. Caravan Park in Oberon has
and-breakfast-type accommo- Two other useful online sources cabins and caravans for hire,
dation includes breakfast, so it that provide lists of budget as well as camping pitches with
is wise to check when booking. hostels in Sydney are hostels. and without electric hook-ups.
People from all walks of life com and hostelworld.com. You will need to book if you
offer rooms in a variety of house Halls of Residence are another want to camp at the Euroka
styles and locations. Agencies good option for travellers on Clearing near Glenbrook, but
such as Bed and Breakfast a budget. Student rooms with this is not necessary for the
NSW and the Homestay shared bathroom facilities are other sites. Bush camping is also
Network make it easy to search available at the University permitted in the park, but there
for suitable accom modation of Sydney over the summer are some restrictions. The NSW
from centralized listings. Airbnb break from late November to National Parks and Wildlife
options are plentiful, though it is mid-February. The university is Service website lists camp-
best to check reviews carefully. conveniently close to the city grounds and their facilities.
.
.


170-173_EW_Sydney.indd 172 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  173

Recommended Hotels Boutique hotels place an
The accommodation options emphasis on chic design. They
featured in this guide have generally offer the same facilities
been selected for their excellent and services as larger hotels,
facilities and unique appeal. They but in a more intimite setting.
have been divided into a number There are a number of historic
of categories to help you make hotels to choose from in Sydney.
the best choices for your trip. These are situated in places with
There are a wide range of a unique history and are often
apartments available to rent for decked out with period features.
short stays in Sydney. Some are Luxury hotels provide
privately owned and others are five-star facilities, most with
maintained by bigger companies. The cosiness of a roaring fire at The Lord stunning views and beautifully
All have been furnished to a high Nelson Brewery Hotel (see p178) decorated rooms.
standard and offer independent Outstanding hotels are
living in the centre of the city. Basic hotels, hostels and chain highlighted as a DK Choice.
B&Bs are dotted throughout hotels may lack character, but These hotels offer something
the city and can range from those listed in this guide offer really special, be it excellent
no-frills digs to luxurious rooms great value for money, with service, opulent decor, a
in heritage buildings, though not good-quality rooms and huge range of amenities,
all include breakfast in their rates. excellent service. or something entirely unique.
DIRECTORY
Useful Booking Time Flys Travel Budget Gay and Lesbian
Addresses 577 Sydney Rd, Seaforth, Accommodation Accommodation
NSW 2092.
Australian Tel 9949 5099. Base Backpackers Gay and Lesbian
Accommodation ∑ timeflystravel. 477 Kent St, NSW 2000. Tourism Australia
Services com.au Tel 9262 7277. ∑ galta.com.au
Tel 9974 4884. ∑ stayatbase.com IGLTA
∑ tourist.net Self-Catering PO Box 20891, World
Apartments Blue Parrot
NSW TrainLink Backpackers Square, NSW. Tel 9575
Central Railway Station. Medina 87 Macleay St, Potts Point, 4869. ∑ iglta.org
Map 4 E5. Tel 132 829. 359 Crown St, Surry Hills, NSW 2011. Tel 9356 4888. Planet Dwellers
∑ nswtrainlink.info NSW 2010. Map 5 A3. ∑ blueparrot.com.au Tel 0419 230 670.
Sydney Visitor Centre Tel 1300 633 462. Original Backpackers ∑ planetdwellers.
com.au
∑ medina
Cnr Argyle & Playfair Sts, 160 Victoria St, Kings
The Rocks, NSW 2000. apartments.com.au Cross, NSW 2011. Camping
Map 1 A2. Also nine other locations. Map 5 B1. Tel 9356 3232.
Tel 8273 0000. Pacific International ∑ originalbackpackers. Blue Mountains
∑ sydney.com Hotels com.au National Park
Sydney, Chatswood and Summer House Tel 4787 8877.
Discount Parramatta.
Agencies 153 Forbes St, Jenolan Caravan Park
Tel 1300 987 604. Woolloo mooloo, NSW Tel 6336 0344.
Sydney Coach ∑ pacificinthotels.com 2011. Map 5 B1.
Terminal Homestay Tel 9358 4327. Ku-ring-gai Chase
Eddy Ave, NSW 2000. University of Sydney National Park
Map 4 E5. Agencies International House Tel 9472 8949.
Tel 9281 9366. NSW National Parks
Airbnb Tel 9950 9800. and Wildlife Service
Disabled ∑ airbnb.com.au St John’s College. ∑ nationalparks.nsw.
Assistance Bed and Breakfast Tel 9394 5200. gov.au
Sancta Sophia.
NSW
Spinal Cord Injuries Tel 1300 888 862. Tel 9577 2100. Royal National Park
Australia ∑ bbfaccommodation. Wesley College. Tel 9542 0648.
1 Jennifer St, Little Bay, com.au Tel 9565 3333. ∑ royalnationalpark.
NSW 2036. Women’s College. com.au/royal-national-
Tel 9661 8855 or Homestay Network Tel 9517 5000. park-camping
1800 819 775. PO Box 270, Beecroft, YHA Australia
Postal address: NSW 2119. Level 3/9, Castlereagh St,
PO Box 397, Matraville, Tel 9412 3100. ∑ NSW 2000. Map 1 B4.
NSW 2036. homestaynetwork. Tel 9261 1111.
∑ scia.org.au com.au ∑ yha.com.au


170-173_EW_Sydney.indd 173 29/05/17 12:16 pm

174  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Meriton Serviced Apartments Price Guide
Apartments Campbell Street $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
6 Campbell St high season for a standard double room,
The Rocks and Tel 8318 8888 Map 4 F4 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Circular Quay ∑ meritonapartments.com.au/ $ up to A$150
sydney/campbell-street $$ A$150 to A$350
Rendezvous Hotel Sydney $$$ Spacious and modern apartments $$$ over A$350
75 Harrington St, The Rocks have free Wi-Fi, a washer/dryer, an
Tel 9251 6711 Map 1 B2 indoor pool and friendly staff. Kings Cross and
∑ tfehotels.com/brands/ Darlinghurst
rendezvous-hotels/rendezvous- DK Choice
hotel-sydney-the-rocks Regent’s Court Apartments $$
Good-sized apartments with Adge Boutique Apartment 18 Springfield Ave, Potts Point
kitchenettes in an excellent Hotel $$$ Tel 9331 2099 Map 2 E5
location. Some rooms come with 222 Riley St, Surry Hills ∑ regentscourtsydney.com.au
harbour views. There is also a Tel 8093 9888 Map 4 F4 A character Art Deco building with
lovely outdoor pool with a café. ∑ adgehotel.com.au warmth and charm in a pretty,
With a daring design and tree-lined street. There are 25 self-
The York Apartment $$$ colourful, bold styling, including contained studios, all with access
5 York St pink fridges and gaudy striped to a gorgeous rooftop garden.
Tel 9210 5000 Map 1 A3 carpets, these two-bedroom
∑ theyorkapartments.com.au urban apartments sit in the Woolloomooloo Waters
Sizable apartments, from studio heart of the inner city’s best Apartment Hotel $$
to two-bedroom, are well café and dining area. Quality 88 Dowling St, Woolloomooloo
appointed. Standard studios have amenities and extras include a Tel 8837 8000 Map 2 E5
older-style decor, while deluxe complimentary welcome drink. ∑ woolloomooloo-waldorf-
apartments have contemporary apartments.com.au
furnishings. It can be noisy on Not on the waterfront despite
the lower floors. Meriton World Tower $$$ the name, this aparthotel is a
95 Liverpool St block back from the bay and offers
City Centre Tel 8263 7500 Map 4 E3 basic, no-frills apartments with a
good, light breakfast included.
∑ meritonapartments.com.au/
Fraser Suites Sydney $$ sydney/world-tower-sydney There is a small indoor pool.
488 Kent St Outstanding modern apartments
Tel 8823 8888 Map 4 E3 in Sydney’s tallest residential
∑ sydney.frasershospitality.com/en tower. Floor-to-ceiling windows Further Afield
These serviced apartments come offer stunning views. Adina Apartment Hotel
with all mod cons in an edgy Bondi Beach $$
42-storey tower with a striking Zara Tower Serviced 69–73 Hall St, Bondi
glass façade designed by architect Apartments $$$ Tel 9300 4800
Sir Norman Foster, complete with 61–65 Wentworth Ave ∑ tfehotels.com/brands/adina-
indoor pool, sauna and gym. Tel 8228 7659 Map 4 F4 apartment-hotels/adina-apartment-
∑ zaratower.com.au hotel-bondi-beach
Meriton Pitt Street $$ Spacious apartments on the city These small, modern but pricey
329 Pitt St fringe, with gourmet kitchen apart ments with a beachhouse
Tel 9277 1111 Map 4 E3 appliances and a choice of pillows. feel are in the hip Hall St strip
∑ meritonapartments.com.au/ Although this is a convenient that runs down to the beach.
sydney/pitt-street location, it is not especially pretty.
Immaculate and well-managed Meriton Bondi Junction $$
modern apartments in the heart 97 Grafton St, Bondi Junction
of the city. There is an on-site Tel 8305 7600
pool, spa, sauna and gym. A large ∑ meritonapartments.com.au/
supermarket is just a block away. sydney/bondi-junction
Halfway between the city and
Bondi Beach, and surrounded by
Darling Harbour and shopping choices, from luxury
Surry Hills boutiques to street markets. Suites
are clean, spacious, and well-
Adina Apartment Hotel equipped, with great views.
Crown Street $$
359 Crown St, Surry Hills QT Bondi Beach $$
Tel 8302 1000 Map 5 A3 180 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach
∑ adinahotels.com Tel 1800 991 928
Functional and clean, the ∑ pacificbondibeach.com.au
accommodation here is Opposite Australia’s most iconic
comfortable, if lacking a little in stretch of sand, this place boasts
natural light. There is a lovely chic beachside glamour. There is
palm-fringed pool and room an eclectic art-filled entrance area
service from the wonderful Bill’s The entrance to Meriton Serviced and white-walled designer fit-outs
restaurant next door. Apartments Campbell Street in the studios and apartments.
174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 174 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  175


B&Bs
The Rocks and
Circular Quay
Sydney Harbour B&B $$
140–142 Cumberland St, The Rocks
Tel 9247 1130 Map 1 B2
∑ bbsydneyharbour.com.au
A restored historic mansion with
a communal lounge, garden and
nine comfortable rooms, some
with views of the Opera House.
The handcrafted, pretty Colonial-
style furniture is in keeping with
the location.
Bright, colourful interiors at Adge Boutique Apartment Hotel
Darling Harbour and
Surry Hills Further Afield break fast. Explore the nearby
Dadirri Studio Apartment $ Royal National Park, or relax in the
Brickfield Hill $$ 68 Lennox, Newtown double spa bath and open shower.
403 Riley St, Surry Hills Tel 0430 883 067
Tel 9211 4886 Map 4 F5 ∑ dadirri.com.au Cecil Street B&B $$
∑ brickfieldhill.com.au A basic but clean first-floor option 18 Cecil St, Manly
Four rooms (only one with a opposite a lovely historic park. Tel 9977 8036
private bathroom) in a vibrant No breakfast, but there is a ∑ cecilstreetbb.com.au
neighbourhood. Breakfast incurs kitchenette for making your own. Two spacious and airy bedrooms
an extra cost. Some of Sydney’s with a shared bathroom, located
best cafés can be found nearby. 101 Addison Rd B&B $$ in a quiet area. Breakfast is served
101 Addison Rd, Manly in the cosy sitting room.
Tel 9977 6216
Kings Cross and ∑ bb-manly.com Forsyth B&B $$
Darlinghurst Character-filled property in a quiet 3 Forsyth St, Glebe
street close to the beach. Warm Tel 9552 2110 Map 3 A3
Simpsons of Potts Point $$ host, Jill, shares local knowledge ∑ forsythbnb.com
8 Challis Ave, Potts Point and serves a great breakfast in Outstanding hospitality and
Tel 9356 2199 Map 2 E4 your private living room. breakfast, just a minute’s walk
∑ simpsonshotel.com from Blackwattle Bay. The hosts
A peaceful and elegant Victorian Australia Street Cottage $$ do airport pick-up and drop-off
mansion with an old-world charm. 227 Australia St, Newtown for a very reasonable charge.
Relax in the character-filled ∑ australiastreetcottage.com
drawing room with a fireplace A large sandstone house with an Manly Beach View
and books over a glass of sherry open plan and con temporary fit- Bed & Breakfast $$
or port. Breakfast is served in the out. No breakfast, but there is a 37 Kangaroo St, Manly
charming conservatory. full kitchen, and it’s just a short Tel 9977 7520
walk to King St cafés. ∑ manlybeachviewbedand
Paddington breakfast.com.au
Enjoy views over Manly from your
Five Ways B&B of DK Choice private balcony on Kangaroo Hill, a
Paddington $$ Bet’s B&B $$ few blocks back from the beach.
34 Goodhope St, Paddington 176 Johnston St, Annandale Warm hospitality makes this a
Tel 9360 4084 Map 6 D2 Tel 9660 8265 home away from home.
∑ babs.com.au/fiveways ∑ betsbandb.com.au
Plenty of returning customers This charming self-contained Newtown Darlington Suites $$
enjoy the quiet and airy first-floor two-level studio is located in the 30 Golden Grove St,
room, the well-equipped private quaint suburb of Annandale, cnr Abercrombie St, Darlington
bathroom, and the small balcony with good cafés, boutiques Tel 8003 7333
overlooking a charming street. and parks. There is a spacious ∑ bedbreakfastsydney.com.au
Located near cafés, galleries, lounge, a dining area and a fully Two large, self-contained apart-
shopping and transport. equipped kitchenette. Regular ments with a full kitchen between
buses serve the city, which is a the city fringe and vibrant
Hart’s Home Stay $$ 20-minute ride away. Newtown. Art installations feature
91 Stewart St, Paddington in the old shopfront window.
Tel 9380 5516 Map 6 D4
∑ bbbook.com.au Bundeena Beach B&B $$ Tara Guesthouse $$
In a 19th-century, Gothic-style 75 Bundeena Drive, Bundeena 13 Edgeware Rd, Enmore
cottage with a central courtyard Tel 9527 9977 Tel 9519 4809
in a quiet residential street, Hart's ∑ beachbedandbreakfast.com.au ∑ taraguesthouse.com.au
Home Stay is just a short stroll Step off the front lawn and on to This is a gracious place to stay in
away from the cafés and shops of the beach at this self-contained a busy area that is full of bohemian
Oxford Street. luxury accommodation with character. Free airport transfers.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 172–3
174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 175 29/05/17 12:16 pm

176  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Kings Cross and
Basic Hotels Darlinghurst
The Rocks and The Bayswater $
Circular Quay 17 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross
Tel 8070 0100 Map 5 B1
The Mercantile Hotel $$ ∑ sydneylodges.com/lodges/the-
25 George St, The Rocks bayswater-sydney/
Tel 9247 3570 Map 1 B2 Great-value rooms in a convenient
∑ themercantilehotel.com.au spot for transport, shops and
Spacious rooms (some with restaurants. There’s a nice guest
Jacuzzi baths), with period lounge area with kitchenette.
fittings and marble fireplaces.
A continental breakfast is Hotel 59 $
included. Basic-rate rooms 59 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters Bay
share a bathroom. Tel 9360 5900 Map 5 C1
∑ hotel59.com.au
City Centre Great-value, family-run place with Central courtyard and pool at the friendly,
just nine rooms. Complimentary
family-run Arts Hotel
Song Hotel Hyde Park $$ breakfast is served in the property’s
5–11 Wentworth Ave street-front café.
Tel 9264 2451 Map 4 F3 Boutique Hotels
∑ yhotels.com.au/y-hotel-hyde-park Mariners Court $$
Excellent-value accommodation 44–50 McElhone St, Woolloomooloo The Rocks and
in a prime spot in the city, with Tel 9320 3800 Map 2 E5 Circular Quay
basic continental breakfast and ∑ marinerscourt.com.au
clean, functional rooms. Opt for a Clean, comfortable rooms in a Harbour Rocks Hotel $$$
courtyard-facing room, as street- great location. The place is 34 Harrington St, The Rocks
facing rooms can be noisy. reasonably quiet for a busy area, Tel 8220 9999 Map 1 B2
and there are plenty of good ∑ harbourrocks.com.au
Travelodge Wynyard $$ dining choices nearby. This hotel offers very small, basic
7–9 York St rooms in a heritage building
Tel 9274 1222 Map 1 A4 O’Malley’s Hotel $ located in a desirable central
∑ tfehotels.com/brands/ 228 William St, Kings Cross location. The staff are friendly.
travelodge-hotels Tel 9357 2211 Map 5 B1
No fancy extras, just good, ∑ omalleyshotel.com.au City Centre
clean rooms and a central This conveniently located,
location that is ideal for exploring characterful hotel has 15 ensuite Park8 $$
the city. Rooms near the old lifts rooms. It is situated above a pub 185 Castlereagh St
tend to be noisiest. on a busy corner, so expect noise. Tel 9283 2488 Map 1 B5
∑ park8.com.au
Darling Harbour and Paddington Rooms tend to be small, stylish
and somewhat dark. There is a 24-
Surry Hills Arts Hotel $$ hour, guests-only espresso bar.
21 Oxford St, Paddington
The Ultimo $$ Tel 9361 0211 Map 5 B3 DK Choice
37 Ultimo Rd, Haymarket ∑ artshotel.com.au
Tel 9281 5555 Map 4 D4 Friendly, family-run hotel with QT Sydney $$$
∑ aaronssydney.com.au small basic rooms. Quieter 49 Market St
No bells and whistles here – just garden rooms face a central Tel 8262 0000 Map 1 B5
good-value, well-kept digs in courtyard with a small pool. ∑ qtsydney.com.au
an ideal location for exploring Bicycles are available for free hire. Kooky, cutting edge and a little
the southern end of the city. over the top, this designer hotel,
It is also very close to transport Further Afield set within the Art Deco
links for exploring the rest. historical State Theatre and
Alishan Guesthouse $ Gowings building, is one of a
DK Choice 100 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe Map 3 A5 kind. It has an in-house “design
and art curator”, and customer-
Tel 9566 4048
Vibe Sydney $$ ∑ alishan.com.au service staff wear red wigs.
111 Goulburn St Functional, no-frills accom moda-
Tel 8272 3300 Map 4 E4 tion with a communal kitchen for
∑ tfehotels.com/brands/ preparing meals. Convenient
vibe-hotels location on Glebe’s main street. Darling Harbour and
Neat and clean, simple yet Surry Hills
comfortable, this hotel has The Merton Hotel $$
almost 200 rooms and is located 38 Victoria Rd, Rozelle Ovolo 1888 Darling Harbour $$$
in the heart of the city. It is within Tel 8065 9577 139 Murray St, Pyrmont
easy walking distance of most ∑ themertonhotel.com.au Tel 8586 1888 Map 3 C2
major attractions. Facilities A pub on a main road with clean ∑ ovolohotels.com.au
include a bar and café, and rooms and breakfast included. This is a vibrant, stylish converted
there is also a small but It also has a good bistro and wool store that has been
attractive pool on the roof. offers live music in the evenings. meticulously restored with
Some rooms can be a little noisy. recycled wooden beams.
For key to prices see page 174
174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 176 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  177

Pensione Hotel $$$ Novotel Sydney on
631–635 George St Chain Hotels Darling Harbour $$$
Tel 9265 8888 Map 4 E4 100 Murray St, Pyrmont
∑ pensione.com.au The Rocks and Tel 9934 0000 Map 3 C2
Convenient hotel in a busy area. Circular Quay ∑ novoteldarlingharbour.com.au
The corridors are a bit of a maze, Opt for a room with a view of
but the rooms are modern and Four Seasons Hotel Sydney $$$ Darling Harbour. Rooms are
generally well maintained. 199 George St spacious and there is an outdoor
Tel 9250 3100 Map 1 B3 pool, gym, tennis court,
∑ fourseasons.com/sydney/ restaurant, bar and café.
Botanic Garden and Harbour views, a handy location
The Domain and top-notch facilities for Rydges World Square $$$
business and leisure travellers. 389 Pitt St
Sir Stamford at Circular Quay $$$ The service is excellent. Tel 8268 1888 Map 4 E3
93 Macquarie St ∑ rydges.com
Tel 9252 4600 Map 1 C3 Holiday Inn Old Sydney $$$ Good hospitality and service
∑ stamford.com.au/sscq 55 George St, The Rocks complement a terrific central
This historic hotel has character Tel 9252 0524 Map 1 B2 location, and neat and tidy
and charm and offers gracious, ∑ ihg.com/holidayinn/hotels/ rooms. The furnishings may be
old-fashioned service and good us/en/sydney/sydgs/hoteldetail are a little uninspiring but the
modern amenities. Step back to Colonial Sydney. beds are very comfortable.
Old-world charm is comple-
mented by modern facilities.
Kings Cross and Kings Cross and
Darlinghurst City Centre Darlinghurst
Larmont Sydney $$ Hilton Sydney $$$ Ibis Budget Sydney East $
2–14 Kings Cross Rd, Kings Cross 488 George St 191–201 William Street,
Tel 9295 8888 Map 5 B1 Tel 9266 2000 Map 1 B5 Kings Cross
∑ lancemore.com.au/larmont ∑ hiltonsydney.com.au Tel 9326 0300 Map 5 B1
Modern, stylish rooms close to There are no waterfront views ∑ accorhotels.com.au
lots of eateries and transport. here, but it is right in the pulsing Living up to low-cost expectations,
Lovely staff, and there is free city centre. Pop into the historic rooms are very basic. Street-
Wi-Fi and iPads for guests’ use. Marble Bar downstairs. facing rooms can be noisy due to
traffic and nightlife. Cheerful staff.
Medusa $$ Swissotel Sydney $$$
267 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst 68 Market St
Tel 9331 1000 Map 5 B1 Tel 9238 8888 Map 4 E2 Further Afield
∑ medusa.com.au ∑ swissotel.com/hotels/sydney Novotel Manly Pacific $$
A labyrinth of 18 rooms, styled to Comfortable rooms with contem- 55 N Styne, Manly
maximize comfort and privacy. porary styling. The colourful kids’ Tel 9977 7666
There is also a pretty courtyard rooms – stocked with toys and ∑ novotelmanlypacific.com.au
with a reflection pool. facilities – are great for families. This hotel opposite the beach
has plenty of on-site dining and
Old Clare Hotel $$$ entertainment options, as
1 Kensington St, Chippendale Darling Harbour and well as a lovely rooftop pool.
Tel 8277 8277 Map 4 D5 Surry Hills
∑ theoldclarehotel.com.au Quest Bondi Junction $$
Retaining the best features of the Travelodge Wentworth Ave $$ 28 Spring St, Bondi Junction
pub and brewery that once 27–33 Wentworth Ave Tel 9078 1700
occupied this site, this aesthetic Tel 8267 1700 Map 4 F4 ∑ questapartments.com.au
gem has a lobby bar, a rooftop ∑ tfehotels.com/brands/ Three train stops from the city, a
pool and bar and four restaurants. travelodge-hotels short bus ride to the beach and
Rooms are basic and simple. shopping of every kind at your
Surprisingly quiet despite its size doorstep. Quest Bondi Junction
Further Afield and central location, this is a offers pleasant, modern well-
Admiral Collingwood Lodge $$ handy base from which to explore. appointed rooms and facilities.
5 Collingwood St, Drummoyne
Tel 9181 3881
∑ admiralcollingwoodlodge.com.au
A lovely 1880s Italianate mansion
with well-kept rooms near water-
front parklands. There are regular
buses and ferries to the city.
Hotel Ravesi’s $$$
118 Campbell Parade, Bondi
Tel 9365 4422
∑ hotelravesis.com.au
Stay in beachside glamour in one
of 12 chic, individually styled
rooms. The iconic beach is
right across the road. Bright and spacious room at the Admiral Collingwood Lodge
For more information on types of hotels see pages 172–3

174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 177 29/05/17 12:16 pm

178  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Historic Hotels Further Afield Hostels
The Rocks and The Rocks and Circular
Circular Quay DK Choice Quay
Cockatoo Island $$
The Lord Nelson Brewery Cockatoo Island
Hotel $$ Tel 8969 2111 DK Choice
19 Kent St, The Rocks ∑ cockatooisland.gov.au
Tel 9251 4044 Map 1 A2 Why stay by the harbour when Sydney Harbour YHA $$
∑ lordnelsonbrewery.com you can stay on it? This is the 110 Cumberland St, The Rocks
Brimming with history and only harbour island where you Tel 8272 0900 Map 1 B2
personality, the top floor of this can stay overnight, just a short ∑ yha.com.au
celebrated pub, Australia’s oldest ferry ride from the city. Embrace Private rooms with harbour
pub brewery, offers cosy rooms your sense of adventure and views here cost slightly more
with stone walls and rustic decor. explore its convict and than standard hostels, but are
shipbuilding history, then relax worth it. There are double,
Pier One Sydney Harbour $$ on the balcony or deck of a family and dormitory rooms,
11 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay self-contained apartment. and it's just a short walk to
Tel 8298 9999 Map 1 A2 major attractions and transport.
∑ pieronesydneyharbour.com.au The relaxing, large rooftop deck
The 1912 Pier One wharf played Q-Station $$ offers incredible views of the
a role in Sydney’s early shipping North Head Scenic Drive, Manly Opera House.
and cargo history. This beautiful Tel 9466 1500
hotel has revived and preserved ∑ qstation.com.au
this historic landmark. Stay in Sydney Harbour National
Park and take history or ghost Darling Harbour and
The Russell Hotel $$ tours of the 1830s North Head Surry Hills
143a George St, The Rocks Quarantine Station (see p135).
Tel 9241 3543 Map 1 B2 Big Hostel $
∑ therussell.com.au 212 Elizabeth St
The site of the colony’s “movable Beyond Sydney Tel 9281 6030 Map 4 E4
hospital” in 1790, this charming The Carrington $$ ∑ bighostel.com
hotel sits above the historic 15–47 Katoomba St, Katoomba This place attracts less of the
Fortune of War pub. It has a quaint Tel 4782 1111 party crowd than other hostels.
sitting room, a well-stocked library, ∑ thecarrington.com.au There is a complimentary basic
a rooftop garden and lovely staff. This 1883 grand old lady was a breakfast – toast, cereal, coffee,
magnet for Sydney’s elite, and the tea. Common areas have Wi-Fi.
southern hemisphere’s most
City Centre popular retreat in the early 1900s. Railway Square YHA $
The Grace $$$ Bags of old-world charm. 8 Lee St
77 York St Tel 2981 9666 Map 4 D5
Tel 9272 6888 Map 1 A4 The Hydro Majestic $$$ ∑ yha.com.au
∑ gracehotel.com.au Great Western Highway, Next to Central Station, this hostel
Built by Grace Bros in the 1920s Medlow Bath has private rooms in the historic
as a showpiece department store, Tel 4782 6885 1904 main building and shared
this place is a fine example of ∑ hydromajestic.com.au rooms in a funky railway carriage.
Neo-Gothic archi tecture with a Stretching 1.1 km (0.7 miles) along
contrasting Art Deco interior. the escarpment overlooking the Wake Up! $
Megalong Valley, this magnificent 509 Pitt St
Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel $$$ property’s Art Deco-styled Tel 9288 7888 Map 4 E5
27 O’Connell St 54 guest rooms reflect its rich ∑ wakeup.com.au
Tel 8214 0000 Map 1 B4 heritage and the glitz and Fun, modern backpacker
∑ radissonblu.com/en/plaza glamour of yesteryear. accommodation in a convenient
hotel-sydney location with shared and private
With its stunning 1850s sandstone rooms. Activities include
façade, this was once home to barbecues, pool competit ions
John Fairfax & Sons’ newspaper and guided city orientation tours.
empire and the Bank of NSW. Good on-site café and bar.
Today, you’ll find exceptional
comfort and service.
Kings Cross and
Paddington Darlinghurst
The Hughenden $$ Eva’s Backpackers $
14 Queen St, Woollahra 6 Orwell St, Potts Point
Tel 9363 4863 Map 6 E4 Tel 9358 2185 Map 2 E5
∑ thehughenden.com.au ∑ evasbackpackers.com.au
A restored grand mansion Small, clean rooms and friendly
with a colourful history, The staff. Facilities include a large
Hughenden has formerly been kitchen, a common room with a
a masonic hall, a nurses’ home Modern fittings and a stunning view at fireplace and hot chocolate, and a
and a dance hall. Pier One Sydney Harbour rooftop terrace for barbecues.
For key to prices see page 174
174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 178 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  179


Luxury Hotels
The Rocks and
Circular Quay
The Langham $$$
89–113 Kent St, Millers Point
Tel 9256 2222 Map 1 A2
∑ sydney.langhamhotels.com.au
This is a charming, bright,
impossibly pretty hotel that strikes
a wonderful balance between
opulence and understated
elegance. It also has a magnificent
indoor pool, with a sky-dappled
star ceiling.
Guests sunning themselves on the terrace at Big Hostel
DK Choice Sheraton on the Park $$$ ware house on a historic wharf.
Park Hyatt $$$ 161 Elizabeth St The superb on-site restaurant-
7 Hickson Rd, The Rocks Tel 9286 6000 Map 1 B5 bar, Lo Lounge, is open all day.
Tel 9256 1234 Map 1 B1 ∑ sheratonontheparksydney.com
∑ sydney.park.hyatt.com Grand columns and a sweeping Further Afield
In the the best harbourfront staircase welcome guests to this
location, with views straight hotel, which is set in an idyllic InterContinental Sydney
across the water to the Opera spot opposite Hyde Park. There is Double Bay $$$
House, this intimate, low-rise also a lovely indoor rooftop pool. 33 Cross St, Double Bay
hotel has been outfitted with Tel 8388 8388
impeccable attention to detail. Westin $$$ ∑ ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels/
The 155 spacious contemporary 1 Martin Place gb/en/sydney/sydic/hoteldetail
guest rooms and suites have Tel 8223 1111 Map 4 E1 This is an exclusive sanctuary,
floor-to-ceiling glass doors that ∑ westinsydney.com the lavish jewel in the crown
open to private balconies. The Soaring above the historic GPO of picturesque Double Bay
rooftop pool area is lovely, too. building at 1 Martin Place, this village. The whole place is
property mixes old-fashioned pure luxury – from the Italian
service with modern comforts. marble floors in the foyer, to
Pullman Quay Grand Sydney the swanky rooftop pool bar.
Harbour $$$
61 Macquarie St Darling Harbour and Jonah’s $$$
Tel 9256 4000 Map 1 C3 Surry Hills 69 Bynya Rd, Palm Beach
∑ pullmanquaygrandsydney Tel 9974 5599
harbour.com The Darling $$$ ∑ jonahs.com.au
Get a room with a spectacular view 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont A sumptuous and discreet ocean
at this spacious, upscale, all-suite Tel 9777 9000 Map 3 B1 retreat on Sydney’s northern
property on the edge of Circular ∑ thedarling.com.au beaches, just a 50-minute
Quay, with the Opera House as Rooms with floor-to-ceiling drive from the city or scenic
your next-door neighbour. windows give stunning views of 20-minute flight by seaplane.
Sydney from this opulent property,
Quay West Suites $$$ part of The Star complex. It has a Beyond Sydney
98 Gloucester St, The Rocks luxury spa and outdoor pool.
Tel 9240 6000 Map 1 A3 Lilianfels $$$
∑ quaywestsuitessydney.com.au 5–19 Lilianfels Ave, Katoomba
Enjoy a swim with a view of the Botanic Garden and Tel 4780 1200
Harbour Bridge in the stunning, The Domain ∑ lilianfels.com.au
sunken, Roman-style heated pool A short walk from the iconic
on level 24 of this truly opulent Hotel InterContinental $$$ Three Sisters at Echo Point
apartment hotel. 117 Macquarie St in the Blue Mountains, this
Tel 9253 9000 Map 1 C3 graceful and elegant resort
City Centre ∑ sydney.intercontinental.com is a throwback to yesteryear.
A real meeting of style and history,
Establishment Hotel $$$ from the grand sandstone exterior One & Only Wolgan Valley
5 Bridge Lane beauty of the restored former 1851 Resort & Spa $$$
Tel 9240 3100 Map 1 B3 Treasury Building, to the rooftop 2600 Wolgan Rd, Wolgan Valley
∑ merivale.com.au/accommodation/ view from Club Continental. Tel 9308 0550
establishmenthotel/ ∑ wolganvalley.com
The effortlessly cool Establishment Ovolo Woolloomooloo $$$ Luxury and seclusion
is tucked away in a hidden lane. 6 Cowper Wharf Roadway, abound at this exclusive,
It has beautifully appointed Woolloomooloo conservation-based retreat
rooms, access to a private gym, Tel 9331 9000 Map 2 D4 with stunning views of
and a handful of Sydney’s best ∑ ovolohotels.com the valley and the rugged
restaurants, bars and clubs all This relaxed, waterfront hotel is sandstone escarpments in
under one roof. in a restored, century-old wool the Greater Blue Mountains.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 172–3
174-179_EW_Sydney.indd 179 29/05/17 12:16 pm

180  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK


Sydney is home to a diverse dining scene, A Japanese take on traditional French
the result of multiple cultural and culinary cooking using native Australian produce
influences. Australia’s largest city has been would not be out of place on a Sydney menu.
populated by successive waves of migrants A detailed guide to the best restaurants
who have added to the communal table. in the city can be found on pages 186–97.
These influences have inspired contemporary These cover a variety of different types of
adaptations of a variety of international restaurant across all price brackets, ranging
cuisines, often called “Modern Australian”, from some of the world’s best fine-dining
drawing on flavours from around the world. establishments to inexpensive casual cafés.
Where to Eat Opening Times
Keep an eye out for the growing
The city centre, Darlinghurst, Potts number of gourmet food trucks Sydney does not have a late-
Point, Surry Hills and Paddington and pop-up restaurants, often night dining culture. Most
are the areas where you will find offshoots of well-known restau- restaurants serve lunch from
the best and widest choice of rants, which temporarily appear noon to 3pm and dinner from
places to eat. Many restaurants in popular locations (www. 6pm to about 10:30pm, though
at Darling Harbour, Cockle Bay, sydneyfoodtrucks.com.au). last orders are often at 10pm.
Barangaroo and King Street Outside the city centre,
Wharf also have outside tables, How Much to Pay restaurants may close one day
so diners can enjoy the atmo s- a week, usually Monday. Many
phere of the lights, the water The sheer number of dining restaurants close on public
and the boats. At Barangaroo, options in Sydney means there holidays (see p53), and those
Wulugul Walk boasts an array of are a variety of great options at that open usually add a 10 per
eateries, from cafés and food-hall a range of prices. While a fine- cent surcharge to the bill.
providers to restaurants and bars. dining experience at an award-
Just outside the city centre, winning restaurant can cost
and not covered in depth in more than A$200, many Reservations
these listings, are the inner-city delicious meals can be had Booking is recommended for
“eat streets” of Glebe Point Road, for a fraction of the cost in less most restaurants. However, if
Glebe (see p133), and King Street, grand settings. The cost can you want to secure a table in a
Newtown and Enmore, as well be reduced further if you top-end or very popular
as relatively new dining destin- choose a BYO (bring your restaurant, it is advisable to
ations, Pyrmont and the up-and- own) restaurant, where you make a reservation at least one
coming creative hub around can avoid paying the heavily week, or even up to one month,
Kensington Street, Chippendale. marked-up price of restaurant in advance. Many restaurants
On the lower North Shore, wine by taking your own wine, offer online bookings via their
you will find the food hub of and sometimes beer. However, websites. Some restaurants
Willoughby Road, Crows Nest, there will usually be a corkage require credit card details to
while the beach suburbs of cost per drinker or per bottle. secure a booking, particularly
Bondi, Coogee and Manly are Check that a restaurant is BYO for groups of four or more,
awash with dining choices. before you arrive. which may incur a charge in the
event of a “no show”. Many
casual brasseries and bistros are
open through out the day and
do not take bookings. You may
have to wait for a table at busy
times, particularly weekend
breakfast and brunch.

Licensing and Smoking
Laws
When a restaurant is described
as licensed, this usually refers
to its licence to sell alcohol. BYO
restaurants are not licensed to
sell liquor, and you will need to
buy it beforehand if you want
Paddington’s reputed Four in Hand by Guillaume pub, which offers great food (see p194) to drink alcohol with your meal.




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  181

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Non-smoking legislation is
in place for indoor dining areas
of all restaurants, pubs and
clubs. However, venues can
provide a separate, designated
outdoor area for smokers.

How to Pay
Most restaurants accept a range
of credit cards as well as debit
cards linked to an international
card network (such as Cirrus or
Maestro). Only the smallest
restaurants and some cafés are
cash-only. Others require a
minimum spend (usually A$10)
for credit or debit cards. Authentic Indian food at Maya, in Surry Hills (see p196)
Vegetarians
offer separate child ren’s menus.
Tax and Tipping Affordable and convenient Almost all restaurants and
A 10 per cent goods and services options for families include any cafés in Sydney have several
tax (GST) is inclusive in prices. of the numerous cafés, Chinese, vege tarian options on the menu.
While tipping is not com pul sory, Thai or noodle bar restaurants, There are also a number of
most customers leave 10 to or the cheap pasta eateries like specialist vegetarian and
15 per cent of the total bill as a Bill and Toni’s (see p192) in East vegetarian-only restaurants,
reward for good service in Sydney, where children are including the highly regarded
restaurants. Cafés often have a always welcome. Harry’s Café Yellow (see p194) and Govinda’s
tip jar at the counter. de Wheels (see p193) next to (see p193). You will find vegan
the Finger Wharf is a cheerful cafés, especially in the Glebe
roadside pie cart. Many and Newtown areas, as well as
Dress Codes
restaurants offer good-value in the city centre, such as Bodhi
Dress standards in Sydney children’s menus, usually fea- in the Park (see p187), while
restaurants are quite relaxed, even turing burgers, fish and chips, many eateries also list gluten-
in the upmarket establishments. and pasta, a drink and ice cream. free options.
Smart-casual dress is the Many shopping centres have
safest option. Jackets and ties inexpensive food halls, includ ing
are uncommon unless the The Galeries on George St (see Wheelchair Access
wearer has come straight from pp198–9) or Market City food Most restaurants in Sydney
the office or is conducting a court in Haymarket, Darling provide wheelchair access and
business meeting over a meal. Harbour. They offer a variety of toilet facilities for the disabled.
casual eating places featuring a However, it is always best to check
range of cuisines in one complex, the facilities available in advance.
Eating with Children
with a central seating area. Casual
Children are welcome in pub bistros offer menus with
restaurants, although fine-dining plenty of choices for children and Recommended
Restaurants
establishments do not generally also serve alcohol for the adults.
The restaurants listed in this
guide are among the best in
Sydney. They have been
selected for their reliably good
food, loca tion, service, value or
a combi nation of these. The
listings cover a variety of
cuisines and eateries, from
pubs, bistros and cafés to top,
award-winning restaurants.
Establishments labelled
DK Choice have been selected
because they are outstanding
in some way. They may offer
superb cuisine, a stunning
setting, great value or a
Decorative saucers on the walls at Lucio’s Italian restaurant, in Paddington (see p195) combination of these.



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182  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Sydney

Sydney is a paradise for food-obsessed visitors, with its
countless bars, restaurants and cafés. The cutting-edge food
scene is often categorized with New York, London and Paris.
Successive waves of immigration from different parts of the
world have established a multicultural culinary experience,
and local chefs blend diverse influences to create new takes on
traditional cuisines. Many of the world’s top chefs have set up shop
here, bringing their versions of internationally renowned dishes to Wattleseed, pepperberry
the city, while using locally sourced ingredients. Numerous food and lemon myrtle
festivals and markets are held throughout the year.

are still wild-harvested by menus. Restaurants still favour
Aboriginal communities, as the vast and impressive array
well as commercially grown to of beef, lamb and, of course,
meet increased demand. Native seafood that has sustained
herbs and spices, such as lemon Australian diners for decades.
myrtle, wattleseed, mountain Fish native to Australia include
pepperleaf, pepperberry, forest barramundi, trevalla and blue
berry and akudjura are used as eye trevalla. The popular native
seasoning. Native meats such shellfish, yabbies and moreton
as kan garoo and emu are also bay bugs are similar to, but
being used more frequently, smaller than, lobster. Delicious
for instance as pizza toppings, honeys with distinct fragrances
Fresh seafood dishes at one of the city’s although don’t expect to are produced out of native
many upmarket restaurants see witchity grubs on many Australian forests.
Native Ingredients Samphire Snapper Lobster Red mullet Oyster
There are many native foods in Scallop
Australia that have been used
by Aborigines for thou sands
of years, and which are
now becoming popular
as ingredients in main stream
cooking. Fruits and vegetables
with distinctive colours,
flavours and textures include
quandong, munthari, bush
tomato, wild limes, warrigal
greens and rosellas. All of them Selection of seafood available in Sydney’s restaurants and food shops
Local Dishes and Specialities
There’s nowhere better in the world to enjoy
fish and chips than sitting on a Sydney
beach. As well as the standard choice of
hake fillets, you may find other popular
local fish on offer, such as shark,
barramundi, John Dory or flathead.
Sausage rolls (pork mince wrapped in
pastry) and meat pies, especially popular at
football games and carnivals, are ubiquitous;
most bakeries sell a variety of fillings. Anzac
biscuits made with crunchy rolled oats were
Anzac biscuits sent to soldiers during World War I and remain
a favourite snack even today. Vegemite, the iconic, salty yeast-based Kangaroo pizza This Italian
spread, is best enjoyed on toast or bread. classic is given a modern
For those keen on cooking, steaks and sausages of fresh kangaroo, Australian spin with the
and to a lesser extent crocodile, can be found in large supermarkets. addition of seared lean fillet.






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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  183



waters, providing chefs with
plenty of inspiration (see p202).
Restaurants and sellers often
specify the origin of their
produce, in keeping with the
emphasis on freshly caught,
sustainable seafood.
Every kind of fruit and
vegetable is grown in Australia.
Pineapples and mangoes are
widely grown in Queensland,
apples in Victoria, strawberries
in New South Wales, rambutans
in the Northern Territory and
the native macadamia nut in
Diners enjoying an outdoor meal on the harbour at Circular Quay the warmer regions. Exotic and
notoriously hard to farm, truffles
The World on a Plate Australia has one of the most are cultivated in several areas,
With a climate that favours a diverse marine faunas in the including Tasmania, high lighting
wide range of fruit, vegetables, world, due to its range of the versatility of Australia’s land.
grains, livestock and seafood, habitats, from the warm tropical
great flavours and fresh, seasonal northern waters to the sub­ FOOD ON THE RUN
produce are a given in Sydney. Antarctic Tasman sea. A total
A large part of the food supply of 600 marine and freshwater Sushi The city is dotted with
is grown in market gardens species are caught in Australian tiny counters offering fresh
within two hours of the city sushi to grab on the go.
centre, before finding its way to Juice bars These serve
restaurants, supermarkets, and, delicious, cool blends of fruits
increasingly, growers markets and vegetables, with optional
dotted throughout the city. extras such as protein balls.
Farming plays a major role in Vietnamese rolls A tasty yet
Australia, the world’s largest inexpensive option, bánh mì
producer of beef. The lush is a meat (or tuna) and salad roll,
pastures on the coast are partic­ with a dash of fish sauce, pâté,
ul arly good for farming, and coriander and chili.
milk­fed lamb from New South
Wales is wonderful. King Island, Food carts Mobile food trucks
off the coast of Victoria, is dedi­ cater to the lunch or dinner rush,
cated to dairy produce, selling as well as popular events.
amazing cheeses and creams. Pies An Aussie institution, pies
Other well­established industries and pastry­wrapped sausage
include wine, olive oil and Fresh fruit on sale at Paddy’s Markets rolls are sold in bakeries.
balsamic vinegar production. in Chinatown














Grilled barramundi Served Pavlova This dessert made Lamingtons These little
on ginger and bok choy risotto, from meringue and topped Victoria sponge cakes are
this is a great mix of local with tropical fruit and fresh coated in chocolate icing
seafood and Asian flavours. cream is a summer favourite. and shredded coconut.






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184  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Sydney

Australia has no shortage of choice when it about the style of coffee but, at cafés with
comes to drinks, be it beer, wine, juice, coffee, in-house coffee roasters, the bean as well.
tea or water. There are wines to suit all tastes When it comes to bottled water, a mini-
and budgets, with many of the bargain-priced industry has grown around labels, with the
wines rating well in blind tastings. Niche craft novelty name, colourful label and quirky
beers produced on a smaller scale by micro- description on the outside sometimes as
breweries enjoy a cult status, while major popular as what lies inside the bottle. Juice
domestic and international brands are also bars cater to the health-conscious, offering
widely available. Sydneysiders love their superfood blends, exotic ingredients and
morning coffee, too, being particular not just extras such as protein powders.

Sparkling Wine
Australia is justly famous for its sparkling wines,
from Yalumba’s Angas Brut to Seppelts Salinger.
Tasmania has showed considerable promise
in producing some high-quality sparkling
wines, particularly Pirie from Pipers Brook.
However, the real hidden gems are the
sparkling red wines – the best are made
using the French méthode champenoise,
matured over a number of years and
helped by a small drop of vintage port.
The best producers of red sparkling wines
are Rockford and Seppelts. These sparkling
Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley produces wines are available throughout Sydney
high-quality sparkling wines from “bottle shops”, which sell alcohol. Angas Brut
premium
White Wine
The revolution in winemaking in the
1970s firmly established dry wines
made from international grape varieties
on the Australian table. Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc, and more recently
Viognier and Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio are
all popular. However, there has also been
a renaissance and growing appreciation
for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and
Sémillon, which age very gracefully.
Australia’s other great wines are their
fortified and dessert wines. Australian
winemakers use Botrytis cinerea, or
Australian Botrytis noble rot, to make luscious dessert Some of the vines in Australia are the oldest
Riesling Sémillon wines such as De Bortoli’s “Noble One”. in the world
Grape Type State Best Regions Best Producers
Chardonnay VIC Geelong, Beechworth Bannockburn, Giaconda, Stoniers
NSW Hunter Valley Lakes Folly, Rosemount, Tyrrell’s
WA Margaret River Leeuwin Estate, Pierro, Cullen
SA Barossa Valley, Eden Valley Penfolds, Mountadam
Sémillon NSW Hunter Valley Brokenwood, McWilliams, Tyrrell
SA Barossa Valley Peter Lehmann, Willows, Penfolds
WA Margaret River Moss Wood, Voyager, Evans & Tate
Riesling SA Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills Grosset, Pikes, Petaluma, Mitchells
SA Barossa Valley Richmond Grove, Leo Buring, Yalumba
TAS Tasmania Piper’s Brook
Marsanne VIC Goulburn Valley Chateau Tahbilk, Mitchelton





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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  185

Red Wine
Australia’s benchmark red is Grange Hermitage,
the creation of the late vintner Max Schubert
in the 1950s and 1960s. Due to his work, Shiraz
has established itself as Australia’s premium
red variety. However, there is also plenty
of diversity with the acknowledged quality
of Cabernet Sauvignon produced in the
Coonawarra. Recently, there has also been
a reappraisal of traditional “old vine” Grenache
Vineyards of Leeuwin Estate, and Mourvedre varieties in the Barossa Valley
Margaret River and McLaren Vale. Shiraz Pinot Noir
Grape Type State Best Regions Best Producers
Shiraz NSW Hunter Valley Brokenwood, Lindmans, Tyrrells
VIC Great Western, Sunbury Bests, Seppelts, Craiglee
SA Barossa Valley Henschke, Penfolds, Rockford, Torbreck
SA McLaren Vale Hardys, Coriole, Chapel Hill
WA Margaret River, Great Southern Cape Mentelle, Plantagenet
Cabernet Sauvignon WA Margaret River Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Moss Wood
SA Coonawarra Wynns, Lindemans, Bowen Estate
SA Barossa, Adelaide Hills Penfolds, Henschke, Petaluma
VIC Yarra Valley, Great Western Yarra Yering, Yerinberg, Bests
Merlot VIC Yarra Valley, Great Western Bests, Yara Yering
SA Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley Petaluma, Pikes
Pinot Noir VIC Yarra Valley Coldstream Hills, Tarrawarra
VIC Gippsland, Geelong Bass Philip, Bannockburn, Shadowfax
Beer
Most Australian beer is vat-fermented, or lager, and consumed chilled.
Full-strength beer has an alcohol content of about 4.8 per cent, mid-strength
beers have around 3.5 per cent, while “light” beers have less than 3 per cent.
Traditionally heat-sterilized, cold filtration is now popular. Fans of real ale
should seek out one of the city’s pub brew eries. Beer is ordered by glass
size and brand: a schooner is a 426 ml (15 fl oz) glass and a middy is Middy Schooner
284 ml (10 fl oz). It is also available in bottles, cans and “on tap”, through
a hose connected to a keg and poured straight into glasses at pubs and
restaurants. While mainstream brands produced by big breweries wane
in popularity, craft beers produced by microbreweries and bearing names
reflecting their place of origin, such as Young Henrys Newtowner, have
attracted a loyal following, mainly among young professionals and hipsters.

Juices
While a wide array of fruit-based drinks Young Henrys Cascade
such as juices, frappés and smoothies Newtowner Premium Lager
are easily available, premium juice
products (at premium prices) are
gradually making their mark. Gourmet Other Drinks
Pear and Banana Strawberry and health-focused ranges using exotic Tap water in Sydney is
kiwi frappé smoothie juice fruits and superfood ingredients such fresh and clean, but
as kale and beetroot can be found local and
at supermarkets and convenience stores, as well as at juice bars offering imported
creative concoctions on their extensive menus. bottled
waters are
fashionable,
Coffee and Tea
especially
Sydney’s coffee culture had its beginnings in the 1980s. Now a those with
sophisticated and thriving industry, many cafés feature in-house roasted quirky names,
blends and promote the origins of the coffee beans they serve. Campos, creative bottle
Toby’s Estate and Single Origin are all popular local blends. More recently, designs and
a culture around tea has emerged, with speciality tea store T2 and the innovative
Rabbit Hole Organic Tea Bar café (see p196) leading the way. labelling. Spring water




184-185_EW_Sydney.indd 185 29/05/17 12:16 pm

186  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

El Camino Cantina $$ Price Guide
The Rocks and Mexican Map 1 A2 Prices are for a three-course evening
Circular Quay 18 Argyle St, The Rocks meal for one, including a half-bottle of
Tel 9259 5668 house wine, tax and service.
Cabrito Coffee Traders $ Come to this bright, character- $ up to A$45
Café Map 1 B3 filled space for tequila, sangria $$ A$45 to A$110
10–14 Bulletin Place, Circular Quay and authentic Tex Mex shared $$$ over A$110
Tel 8065 8895 Closed Sat, Sun plates, served to the beat of a
Tucked away in a tiny alley, this rock “n” roll soundtrack. Lotus Dumpling Bar $$
friendly place is favoured by city Chinese Map 1 A1
workers looking for a takeaway The East Chinese Restaurant $$ 16 Hickson Rd, Dawes Point
caffeine fix. Once the morning Chinese Map 1 C2 Tel 9251 8328
rush hour has passed, sit in and Shop 8, 1 Macquarie St, Dumplings are served almost as
enjoy the aroma of in-house East Circular Quay quickly as they are made, making
roasted beans with a toasted Tel 9252 6868 this a great fast-food choice. The
sandwich or lamington. Subtle, pungent, hot, mild – there menu also has entrées and mains.
is something for every palate
Ground Control Café $ here. Contrasting tastes, colours DK Choice
Café Map 1 B3 and textures appeal to the eye
Shop W4, Alfred St, Circular Quay and the taste buds. Dishes MCA Café $$
Tel 9247 4330 include stir-fried kangaroo Café Map 1 B2
Located under Circular Quay and crocodile tail fillet. Level 4, 140 George St, The Rocks
railway station, this spot has Tel 9250 8443
limited seating and is therefore The Glenmore $$ It’s all about the beautiful
primarily a grab-and-go Pub Map 1 B2 harbour views from the
destination. The coffee is 96 Cumberland St, The Rocks open sculpture terrace on the
excellent, and there is a small Tel 9247 4794 fourth floor of the Museum of
selection of delicious cakes, Head up the steep stairs to the Contemporary Art. Enjoy a cup
pastries, wraps and sandwiches. rooftop to enjoy drinks and food of coffee or glass of wine with
with superb views of Sydney a light bite on the expansive
Vintage Café $ Harbour at this casual, buzzing deck that overlooks the Harbour
Mediterranean Map 1 B2 spot. Don’t let poor weather Bridge and Opera House.
3 Nurses Walk, The Rocks put you off – there is a retractable
Tel 9252 2055 roof. It’s a popular spot with
Set in a cobblestoned courtyard, young city workers. The Morrison Bar &
this hidden gem is a great pit Oyster Room $$
stop for refuelling while out Heritage Belgian Beer Café $$ Seafood Map 1 B3
exploring by day. In the evening, Belgian Map 1 A3 225 George St, The Rocks
it’s an excellent place to enjoy 135 Harrington St, The Rocks Tel 9247 6744
a romantic dinner for two, Tel 8488 2460 There is a setting for every
accompanied by live jazz This atmospheric restaurant is occasion here – from the quiet
several nights a week. set in a historic building. The of the conservatory to the
Belgian mussels are a must-try. communal dining area and the
The Australian Heritage Hotel $$ Enjoy them cooked one of eight party atmosphere of the Oyster
Pub Map 1 B2 ways, or try Flemish beef stew, Room. Enjoy breakfast, bar
100 Cumberland St, The Rocks Belgian sausages or other snacks, a diverse mains menu or
Tel 9247 2229 specialities, washed down with oysters “shucked to order”.
Pizza features heavily at this classic an array of artisan beers.
Australian watering hole, with Nelson’s Brasserie $$
toppings given a local twist – try Pub Map 1 A2
the kangaroo, emu or saltwater 19 Kent St, The Rocks
crocodile. Other options on the Tel 9251 4044 Closed Sun, Mon
menu include Aussie beef-and- This eatery is on the first floor
beer pies, and burgers. An above the Lord Nelson Brewery
interesting range of suggested Hotel. Enjoy a drink downstairs,
beers complements the menu. then head up for innovative
food in a historic 18th-century
Café Nice $$ sandstone-walled building.
French Map 1 C3
Level 3, 2 Phillip St, Circular Quay Neptune Palace $$
Tel 8248 9600 Chinese and Malaysian Map 1 B3
A charming, bright and airy Level 1, Gateway Building, cnr of Pitt
space featuring honest, rustic & Alfred Sts, Circular Quay
Provençal-style cooking and with Tel 9241 3338
views to the Harbour Bridge. Popular with the business crowd
This is a great place to enjoy a for more than two decades,
meal before a show at the Opera Neptune Palace serves award-
House. Service can be slow winning fare including salt-and-
during busy periods, so let your The bright and airy Café Nice, ideal for pepper king prawns, wasabi
waiter know if you are in a hurry. a pre-show meal beef, and Kapitan chicken.
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 186 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  187

Opera Bar $$
Modern Australian Map 1 C2
Lower Concourse, Sydney Opera
House, Bennelong Point
Tel 9247 1666
This is a great place to stop on
the way to the Opera House – or
to just settle in, relax and watch
the ferries over a drink and
choice of bar food, light meals
and sharing plates. There is live
music most evenings.
Pei Modern $$
Modern Australian Map 1 B3
199 George St, The Rocks
Tel 9250 3160
Superb gourmet dishes are
served in this relaxed bistro- Nelson’s Brasserie, with its original 18th-century sandstone walls
style setting in the Four Seasons
Hotel. Pre-theatre and bar Altitude $$$ Café Sydney $$$
menus are available for diners Modern Australian Map 1 A3 Modern Australian Map 1 B3
who are not after the full Level 36, Shangri-La Hotel, Level 5, Customs House, 31 Alfred St,
dining experience. 176 Cumberland St, The Rocks Circular Quay
Tel 9250 6123 Closed Sun Tel 9251 8683
Saké Restaurant & Bar $$ Floor-to-ceiling windows Enjoy picture-postcard harbour
Japanese Map 1 B2 maximize the dramatic harbour views from the covered terrace
12 Argyle St, The Rocks views, especially at night. Service of this prime rooftop location
Tel 9259 5656 can be slow, but at least that above Circular Quay. Service is
Set within an impressive designer gives you more time to enjoy warm and friendly. The ever-
space featuring dark wood, low the stunning panorama. changing menu has consistently
light and loud music, Saké excellent dishes.
Restaurant & Bar has a resident ARIA $$$
sushi master who serves up an Modern Australian Map 1 C2 The Cut Bar & Grill $$$
authentic mix of delicious new 1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay Steak Map 1 A2
and classic sushi dishes. Tel 9252 2555 16 Argyle St, The Rocks
An intimate, elegant dining Tel 9259 5695
Tapavino $$ experience on the edge of the Meat-lovers rejoice! The four-
Spanish Tapas Map 1 B3 harbour with stunning views, hour slow-roast Wagyu standing
6 Bulletin Place, Circular Quay with a choice of set-price menus rib is served straight from the
Tel 9247 3221 Closed Sun from one to four courses, a carving trolley. There’s also
It’s like Barcelona by the harbour seasonal tasting menu and pre- sustainable seafood for those
at this wine and sherry bar with and post-theatre dining. There is wanting something lighter,
an extensive menu of more than an exceptional wine list and very as well as an extensive wine
300 Spanish wines, 80 sherries and helpful sommeliers on hand. list and original cocktails.
a long list of tapas. There is a
strong “sip a little bit of this and DK Choice Quay $$$
eat a little bit of that” philosophy. Modern Australian Map 1 B2
Bennelong $$$ Upper level, Overseas Passenger
Ventuno $$ Modern Australian Map 1 C2 Terminal, West Circular Quay
Italian Map 1 A2 Sydney Opera House Tel 9251 5600
21 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay Tel 9240 8000 A spectacular view with food to
Tel 9247 4444 Renowned chef Peter Gilmore match. Star chef Peter Gilmore
This is a chic modern Italian serves art and innovation on a makes magic out of the best and
eatery where you can savour plate in a modern, cathedral-like freshest produce, combining
antipasti, pizza or pasta al fresco space befitting this premiere ingredients in surprising ways, by
while enjoying the lovely water location under the Opera House reworking old favourites and
views across Walsh Bay. It is sails. The sophisticated menu creating new dishes each season.
located a short stroll away reinvents Australian classics, with
from the theatres. bush meats, superb seafood
and lamington and pavolva.
Young Alfred $$ City Centre
Italian Map 1 B3
31 Alfred St, Circular Quay The Bridge Room $$$ Bodhi in the Park $
Tel 9251 5192 Closed Sun Modern Australian Map 1 B3 Vegetarian Map 1 C5
From the former owners of one 44 Bridge St, Circular Quay Cook & Phillip Park, 2–4 College St
of Sydney’s all-time favourite Tel 9247 7000 Closed Sun Tel 9360 2523
pizza places comes modern Come here for a unique take on In a peaceful park location, this is
Italian fare with flair. Enjoy pasta Asian and European dishes, some a wonderful place for alfresco
and fabulously named pizzas cooked over a char coal grill and lunch or dinner. The menu
dished up in the historic slow-smoked in the Japanese features delicious pan-Asian
Georgian Customs House robata style. With just 66 seats, the cuisine in the yum cha (tea with
building near the harbour. service is as flawless as the food. dim sum) tradition.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
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188  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Double Barrel Coffee Workshop Espresso $
Merchants $ Café Map 4 E2
Café Map 4 E2 The Galeries, 500 George St
33 York St Tel 9264 8836
Tel 0419 832 949 Closed Sat, Sun It would be easy to miss this
City office workers get their hole-in-the-wall spot were it not
morning coffee fix here as they for the regulars lining up for their
pour out of Wynyard Station. coffee fix. Great for a simple, tasty
Great for a hearty breakfast, breakfast or lunch on the go.
or lunch on the go.
York Lane $
GPO Pizza by Wood $ Café Map 1 A4
Italian Map 1 B4 56 York Lane, Wynyard
Lower ground floor, GPO, Tel 9299 1676 Closed Sat, Sun
1 Martin Place Stop by for tasty quick meals,
Tel 9229 7722 Closed Sun sandwiches, breakfasts, cakes and
This pizzeria brings a tasty slice coffee by day. By night, the place
of Italy to the heart of Sydney. becomes a bar and restaurant
The light and crispy traditional with split-level seating and a
thin-crust pizzas feature delicately backing track of vinyl records. Madame Nhu – the place to go for
balanced toppings and are reasonably priced Vietnamese street food
cooked in wood-fired ovens. Bambini Trust $$
European Map 4 F2 presentation of the food at this
Madame Nhu $ Ground floor, 185 Elizabeth St spot attracts a cool crowd eager
Vietnamese Map 4 E2 Tel 9283 7098 Closed Sun to try new tastes. The lunch-box
Shop 5, Lower ground floor, A sophisticated spot. The elegant specials are great value.
The Galeries, 500 George St wood-panelled interiors, crisp
Tel 9283 3355 white linen and excellent service Diethnes $$
The simple and delicious modern complement the well-executed Greek Map 1 B5
Vietnamese street food is just as menu. This is a great place for a 336 Pitt St
it should be – fresh and fuss-free. stylish breakfast, working lunch Tel 9267 8956 Closed Sun
This place is ideal for a fast, filling, or leisurely dinner. A Sydney institution, Diethnes
flavoursome lunch at food-court has been in the same basement
prices. The pho noodle soup and Barrafina $$ location since 1952. The decor
stir fries are highlights. Spanish Tapas Map 1 B4 might show its age, but the
2 Bligh St hearty Greek fare still satisfies.
Mother Chu’s Vegetarian Tel 9231 2551 Closed Sat, Sun
Kitchen $ A wide selection of sharing plates Felix $$
Asian Vegetarian Map 4 E3 and grazing boards here include French Bistro Map 1 B4
367 Pitt St produce from the restaurant 2 Ash St
Tel 9283 2828 gardens, Spanish cheeses and Tel 9240 3000
Overlook the very simple decor artisan cured meats. A genuine Designed as a romantic homage
and join the regulars enjoying taste of Spain, from light starters to the quintessential French
big helpings of hearty food to more substantial offerings. brasserie, Felix offers classic fare
blending the flavours of Taiwan, and an extensive wine list in an
China and Japan – all served with Bistrode CBD $$ elegant room, with white-tiled
warm hospitality. There are Modern bistro Map 4 E1 walls, mounted bread baskets
plenty of vegan options and a Level 1, Hotel CBD, 52 King St and red table lamps.
great-value takeaway menu, too. Tel 9240 3000 Closed Sat, Sun
Modern British cuisine with a Fix Wine Bar +
Pablo & Rusty’s $ focus on local produce from Restaurant $$
Café Map 4 E2 English expat chef Jeremy Strode. Modern Australian Map 4 F2
161 Castlereagh St Wide-arched windows give the 111 Elizabeth St
Tel 9807 6293 Closed Sun first-floor location an elegance Tel 9232 2767 Closed Sat, Sun
Warm service in an inviting, that matches the food. Wash down tasty bar snacks or
buzzy, industrial space, but it’s rustic modern dishes with a wine
the coffee, tea and food menu Chophouse $$ from the extensive list of over
that shines here at breakfast Steak Map 1 B4 200, sourced from all over the
and lunch. The service is helpful 25 Bligh St world. The menu focuses on
and friendly, but there can be a Tel 1300 246 748 Closed Sun fresh seasonal produce.
wait for a table at peak times. Reminiscent of the fine steak-
houses of old New York, here you Gowings Bar & Grill $$
Sushi Hotara $ can settle into the leather and dark Modern European Map 4 E2
Japanese Map 4 E2 wood booths and tuck into a steak QT Hotel, 49 Market St
Level 1, The Galeries, 500 George St with house sauces, or opt for Tel 8262 0062
Tel 9264 9917 lighter salad and seafood options. The interior is in the style of a
In a bustling setting with European brasserie with an edgy
Japanese-inspired interiors, Danjee $$ contemporary design feauring
Sushi Hotara offers a fresh, Korean Map 4 E3 exposed bricks. The menu takes
authentic, reasonably priced 1–7 Albion Place its cues from around the world
sushi conveyer belt – which Tel 8084 9041 and across generations, but the
explains why there’s often a Taking Korean BBQ into the fine- grill is the star. Save room for the
queue at the door. dining arena, the quality and decadent retro desserts.
For key to prices see page 186
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 188 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  189

Machiavelli $$
Italian Map 1 A4 DK Choice
123 Clarence St Darling Harbour and
Tel 9299 3748 Closed Sat, Sun est. $$$ Surry Hills
A Sydney institution, this is Modern Australian Map 1 B3
where politicians, lawyers and Level 1, Establishment, BBQ King $
business leaders come to eat 252 George St Chinese Map 4 E4
and be seen, doing deals over Tel 9240 3000 Closed Sun 76–78 Liverpool St
hearty Italian food. The decor is The head chef at this restaurant, Tel 9267 2586
rustic, with air-dried meats Peter Doyle, is widely regarded A Chinatown institution since
hanging from the ceiling. as a founding father of “Modern 1983, this is still the go-to
Australian” cuisine. Attention to destination for many of the
Mr Wong $$ detail reigns here: every dish is city’s night owls in search of a
Chinese Map 1 B3 prepared to perfection and late meal of barbecued duck,
3 Bridge Lane exquisitely presented. The menu pork and Chinese beer. Great
Tel 9240 3000 features French fusion fare with vegetable dishes and sides, too.
Sprawled over two stylish a unique Antipodean twist,
levels, Mr Wong pays tribute complemented by exceptional Boon $
to classic Chinese influences service and a superb wine list. Thai Map 4 E4
with a Cantonese-based menu. 1/425 Pitt St, Haymarket
A choice of more than 60 Tel 9281 2114
dishes is listed on one of the Glass Brasserie $$$ With a different take on Thai
best dim sum menus in town. Modern Australian Map 1 B5 cuisine, this café combines the
Level 2, Hilton Sydney, 488 George St best of Thai street food with
No. 1 Bent St $$ Tel 9265 6068 Sydney coffee culture. There are
Modern Australian Map 1 B2 Celebrity chef Luke Mangan’s spicy curries, tasty sandwiches
1 Bent St bright space with floor-to-ceiling and superb salads. The on-site
Tel 9252 5550 Closed Sun windows gets diners arguing over fruit and vegetable store sells
This place offers a memorable what are better – dishes from the fresh produce to take home.
dining experience, serving grill, or desserts. The best way to
delicious, uncomplicated food, settle the score is to try both. Cafe Rumah $
cooked in an open kitchen Café Map 4 F4
with a wood-burning oven and Spice Temple $$$ 71–73 Campbell St, Surry Hills
accompanied by fine wines. Even Chinese Map 4 F1 Tel 9280 2289
the bread is homemade. Half of 10 Bligh St A Malaysian-inspired place serving
the seating is at communal tables. Tel 8078 1888 familiar café favourites and South-
A modern Chinese marvel. Chillies east Asian staples such as butter-
Rockpool Bar & Grill $$ are the star – fresh, dried, salted, milk pancakes, pork belly rice
Steak Map 1 B4 pickled, brined and fermented – bowl, and congee. Try the fresh
66 Hunter St served in a dark, moody baked Madeleine biscuits with
Tel 8078 1900 basement with Chinese lanterns kaya (Malaysian coconut jam).
Drawing a crowd from the big and red table lamps.
business end of town, this place Caysorn Thai $
has a grand Art Deco interior that Tetsuya’s $$$ Thai Map 4 D4
would not be out of place in Japanese-French Map 4 E3 Level 1, 8 Quay St, Haymarket
Manhattan. Steak is the main 529 Kent St Tel 9211 5749
attraction, but there’s much Tel 9267 2900 Closed Sun, Mon Challenge your taste buds’
more to enjoy here, including an Internationally acclaimed, this heat tolerance here, where the
extensive wine and cocktail list. serene restaurant features a set speciality is Southern Thai food –
degustation menu that fuses known as the spiciest in Thailand.
Sushi e $$ Japanese flavours with French The chicken larb is highly recom-
Japanese Map 1 B3 technique. A vegetarian version mended. The food is hot, but the
Level 4, Establishment, 252 George St is available on request. service is warm and gracious.
Tel 9240 3000 Closed Sun
Exceptionally fresh fish is served Chat Thai $
up in stunning surroundings.
A good way to experience a
range of delicious tastes is by
ordering a selection of small
pieces from the sashimi menu
or a mix of items from the sushi
nigiri menu. Excellent service.
Eleven Bridge $$$
Modern Australian Map 1 B3
11 Bridge St
Tel 9252 1888 Closed Sun
The exceptional, innovative
menu from celebrated chef Neil
Perry features fine sustainable
produce. This elegant, grand
dining room is located in a
sandstone heritage building. Diners enjoying the excellent Chinese food at Mr Wong
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 189 29/05/17 12:16 pm

190  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Chat Thai $ con version. The wait for a table Encasa $$
Thai Map 4 E4 for breakfast at weekends is Spanish Map 4 E4
20 Campbell St, Haymarket worthwhile. The salted-caramel 423 Pitt St
Tel 9211 1808 milkshake is a hit. Tel 9211 4257
A standout among a sea of This casual Spanish restaurant
Chinese restaurants, with an Taste Baguette on Sussex Lane $ offers great authentic tapas,
interesting menu featuring daily Vietnamese Map 4 D1 paella and sangria. There are also
specials. Food is prepared in the 275 Kent St Spanish-themed pizzas and
shop-front window, which helps Tel 9211 5556 Closed Sat, Sun dishes from the pot, such as
entertain those who are waiting You can really smell the freshly romesco de peix, a Catalan
in line for a table. baked bread here. Don’t miss the seafood stew with a traditional
signature baguettes, baked on- hazelnut and tomato sauce.
Devon $ site and stuffed with your choice
Café of fillings – from traditional Home Café & Thai Restaurant $$
76 Devonshire St, Surry Hills Vietnamese lemongrass beef Thai Map 4 D3
Tel 9211 8777 to Portuguese chicken. 1/299 Sussex St
One of Sydney’s best breakfast Tel 9261 5058
spots, with only seasonal produce Berta $$ There are often queues to get
used – much of it picked from the Italian Map 4 F4 into this place, and no wonder
café’s own walled garden. If you’re 17–19 Alberta St as it offers fantastic food, great
lucky, you’ll be there when truffle- Tel 9264 6133 Closed Sun, Mon value and very fast service.
infused eggs are on the menu. The menu changes daily to Portions are big, too, so if you
deliver simple, seasonal fare, order too much, ask for a
Din Tai Fung $ including dishes designed for takeaway container to enjoy later.
Chinese Map 4 E3 sharing, with a sustainable
World Square, 644 George St philosophy of using the whole King Street Brewhouse $$
Tel 9264 6010 animal. There is a big focus on Pub Map 4 D1
A haven for dumplings and pork- imported Italian wines. 22 The Promenade, King St Wharf
bun aficionados. Locals can’t get Tel 8270 7901
enough of the steamed xiao long Bodega $$ The diverse menu at this micro-
bao – soupy pork dumplings that Tapas brewery and restaurant features
ooze flavour. The pork and 216 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills all the pub favourites – burgers,
vegetable buns are fabulous, too. Tel 9212 7766 Closed Sun, Mon wings, grilled steaks, steamed
The dishes celebrate Spanish and mussels and seafood platters.
Mamak $ South American cuisine. Savour Wash the food down with a
Malaysian Map 4 D4 the flavours with a giant mural of delicious cold beer.
15 Goulburn St, Haymarket a matador and large bull looking
Tel 9211 1668 down at you. There’s an excellent El Loco at Slip Inn $$
Be prepared to wait outside for a selection of matching wines, too. Pub Map 1 A4
table, where you can watch the 111 Sussex St
chefs at work. Once inside, enjoy The Dolphin Hotel Tel 8295 9999 Closed Sun
the buzz of the crowd and staff Dining Room $$ Tuck into tacos, Mexican-style
as you tuck into tasty street food. Pub Map 5 A3 pork or grilled fish burgers, or try
412 Crown St, Surry Hills one of the weekly specials in the
Paramount Coffee Project $ Tel 9331 4800 colourful surroundings of this
Café Map 4 F4 The bright dining room with pub. If you’re after a change,
80 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills beautiful installation art is there’s a good Thai menu on
Tel 9211 1122 worthy of an art gallery. The the ground floor, too.
A speciality coffee destination menu consists of a modern take
in the historic Paramount House on Italian favourites, including Longrain $$
building. Filling sweet and thin-base Roman-style pizza. Asian Map 4 F4
savoury dishes such as waffles 85 Commonwealth St,
and break fast burritos Surry Hills
accompany your caffeine fix. Tel 9280 2888
Top Asian fare is served in a big
Pasteur $ space that fills quickly. The
Vietnamese Map 4 E4 menu includes large portions of
709 George St, Haymarket Southeast Asian dishes designed
Tel 9212 5622 for sharing. A long communal
The service is fast in this no-frills table is the centrepiece of the
setting. Locals and students hip industrial-chic setting.
come for great-value authentic
tastes rather than the ambience. Mahjong Room $$
Try a hearty bowl of pho bo (beef Chinese Map 5 A2
and rice noodle soup). 312 Crown St, Surry Hills
Tel 9361 3985
Reuben Hills $ The food does the talking at this
Café Map 4 F5 low-profile restaurant. A creative
61 Albion St, Surry Hills spin on Chinese cuisine attracts a
Tel 9211 5556 young crowd, with dishes served
There’s hot coffee, warm service at mahjong tables in a series of
and a cool atmosphere in this Sepia, a multi-award-winning fine-dining small rooms. There are mahjong
industrial-style warehouse restaurant set in a New York-style diner lessons on Fridays and Saturdays.
For key to prices see page 186
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 190 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  191

The Malaya $$
Malaysian Map 4 D1
39 Lime St, King Street Wharf
Tel 9279 1170
A Sydney institution since 1963,
this restaurant was originally in
George Street but is now by the
water. It’s noisy, but the cooking
packs a punch, with a feisty,
flavour-filled range of dishes
covering all the favourites, as well
as some surprises.
Marigold $$
Chinese Map 4 E4
Level 4 & 5, Citymark Building,
683–689 George St
Tel 9281 3388
An enormous restaurant, Diners at the long communal table at Longrain
spread over two floors above
a shopping arcade, Marigold is Golden Century $$$ DK Choice
home to one of Sydney’s best Chinese Map 4 E4
yum cha offerings. Banquet 393–399 Sussex St Sepia $$$
menus make ordering easy when Tel 9281 1598 Modern Japanese
you can’t decide what to choose. The menu is huge, the staff Fusion Map 4 D2
friendly and the selection of 201 Sussex St
Mohr Fish $$ live seafood enormous at this Tel 9283 1990 Closed Sun, Mon
Seafood award-winning restaurant. With Lauded with titles including
202 Devonshire St, Surry Hills the kitchen open until 4am, it’s NSW Restaurant of the Year 2016,
Tel 9318 1326 not at all unusual to find it full of Sepia offers a unique take on
A humble, classy, small fish-and- chefs from other restaurants Japanese flavours, artfully done,
chip shop, where you can enjoy relaxing after work. set in an upscale, uptown
your order fresh, steamed, grilled New York-style bar and diner.
or fried. You can wait for a table Kobe Jones $$$ There is a choice of four set
or eat your takeaway order in the Japanese Map 4 D1 menus or a degustation menu,
pub next door. 29 Lime St, King Street Wharf, while a separate bar offering
Darling Harbour includes a selection of Japanese
Nick’s Bar & Grill $$ Tel 9299 5290 charcoal-grill dishes. First-class
Seafood and Steak Stylishly decorated in black service from the waiting staff
The Promenade, Cockle and red, this restaurant puts a and sommelier.
Bay Wharf Californian twist on traditional
Tel 9279 0122 Japanese and teppanyaki.
A delicious menu and a fabulous Helpful staff will guide you
spot to enjoy the sunshine or through the extensive and
night lights on the water. Keep tantalizing offerings to suit Botanic Garden and
little ones happy with a value all palates. The Domain
kids’ meal of pasta, fish, calamari
or chicken, with salad, chips LuMi Bar & Dining $$$ Botanic Garden Café $
and dessert. Italian-Japanese Map 4 D2 Café Map 2 D4
56 Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont Royal Botanic Garden,
Steersons Steakhouse $$ Tel 9571 1999 Mrs Macquaries Rd
Steakhouse Map 4 D1 Enjoy a casual fine-dining Tel 9241 2419
17 Lime St, King Street Wharf experience at this restaurant in a Set in the lush gardens
Tel 9295 5060 waterfront location and winner overlooking the duck pond,
A huge choice of succulent of two Chefs Hat awards, where this place serves gourmet
steaks are served in a surprisingly modern Italian dishes are fused sandwiches, salads, baked goods
swish dining room, with menus with Japanese flavours. Leave the and coffee. There’s also the
that carry over the theme – they decisions to the chef with the option to pre-order a picnic
are bound in cow hide. There are five- or eight-course tasting basket to enjoy at leisure as
lighter chicken, seafood and menu. Vegetarian versions of all you explore the Garden.
vegetarian dishes on offer, too. dishes are available.
Café at the Gallery $
Zaafran $$ Momofuku Seiobo $$$ Café Map 2 D4
Indian Map 3 C2 Japanese Map 3 B1 The Art Gallery of NSW, Art Gallery Rd,
Level 2, 345 Harbourside Shopping The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, The Domain
Centre, Darling Harbour Pyrmont Tel 9225 1744
Tel 9211 8900 Tel 9777 9000 Closed Sun Head to the Gallery’s lower level 1
This is the pick of the eateries on This first off-shoot of the for a casual dining experience
this side of the Darling Harbour renowned New York original in a relaxed environment, with
tourist strip, with good-value set has a set-price tasting menu, freshly prepared light snacks,
menus and a range of delicious or you can arrive early for one sandwiches, salads and baked
dishes to satisfy vegetarians and of the five bar seats for walk-ins goods. It stays open till late on
meat-lovers alike. and try the limited bar menu. Wednesday for Art After Hours.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 191 29/05/17 12:16 pm

192  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Charlie’s $ offering beautiful leafy views.
Café Map 2 D5 Enjoy an open-air lunch any day
7–41 Cowper Wharf Roadway, or a lazy breakfast at weekends.
Woolloomooloo
Tel 9358 4443 Chiswick at the Gallery $$
A no-fuss, long-established café Modern Australian Map 2 D4
serving up a big selection of hot The Art Gallery of NSW,
and fresh fast food, including Art Gallery Rd, The Domain
burgers, sandwiches, rolls, Tel 9225 1819
barbecue chicken, hot chips Head to the contemporary
and salads. This is the perfect dining room and grab a bite to
way to fuel the troops on a eat at the large communal table,
family outing. or have a drink in the casual bar
area before or after enjoying
Courtyard Café da Capo $ the exhibitions.
Café Map 1 C4
8 Macquarie St Kingsleys Sydney $$
Tel 9382 7359 Steak and Crab Map 2 D4
Tucked away in Sydney Hospital’s 10/6 Cowper Wharf Roadway,
courtyard off Macquarie Street, Woolloomooloo Classic salad with a stylish twist at Italian
this is a quiet and pleasant place Tel 1300 546 475 Otto Ristorante
to refuel with a coffee, snacks, a No need to decide between
light meal or more substantial steak or seafood; enjoy both jumped from the harbour waters
offerings. There is both open-air with surf and turf options – below straight onto the plate.
and indoor seating. from Wagyu rib-eye scotch fillet, Good-quality house wine.
to yellow-fin tuna sashimi and
The Pavillion Kiosk $ Singapore chilli crab. DK Choice
Café Map 2 D4
1 Art Gallery Rd, The Domain The Pavilion Restaurant $$ Otto Ristorante $$$
Tel 9232 1322 Modern Australian Map 2 D4 Italian Map 2 D4
Order light refreshments at this 1 Art Gallery Rd, The Domain Area 8, 6 Cowper Wharf Roadway,
café in The Domain across from Tel 9232 1322 Woolloomooloo
the Art Gallery. The menu has In The Domain, just across the Tel 9368 7488
sandwiches, soup and freshly road from the Art Gallery, this The Finger Wharf is great for
baked pastries and muffins. Find elegant restaurant’s uniquely people-watching and celebrity-
a spot on the green to enjoy lunch. shaped curved building serves spotting, but Otto is the real
up breakfast and lunch with star among stars on this
Poolside Café $ beautiful garden views from waterfront, reinventing the
Café Map 2 E3 the terrace and deck. flavours of Italy in stylish
Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool, new forms, with dishes that
1C Mrs Macquaries Rd, The Domain Sienna Marina $$ delight and superb service.
Tel 8354 1044 Closed June, July Italian Map 2 D5 The food somehow tastes even
Perched above the Olympic-sized 6/7-41 Cowper Wharf Roadway, better if you can get a seat on
Andrew (Boy) Charlton swimming Woolloomooloo the alfresco terrace.
pool, this café has views across Tel 9358 6299
Woolloomooloo Bay. Enjoy a Choose from the breakfast, lunch,
swim and a snack – from healthy dinner, pizza or kids’ menus –
salads, to fish-and-chips and ice- there’s something for every time
cream sandwiches. of day. The leather loungers in Kings Cross and
front of the fireplace are perfect Darlinghurst
Aki’s $$ for relaxing.
Indian Map 2 D4 Bar Coluzzi $
6 Cowper Wharf Roadway, China Doll $$$ Café Map 5 B1
Woolloomooloo Modern Asian Map 2 D4 322 Victoria St, Darlinghurst
Tel 9332 4600 4/6 Cowper Wharf Roadway, Tel 0412 253 782
Masterful modern Indian food Woolloomooloo Established in 1957, this small
offers a combination of tandoori Tel 9380 6744 old-school original has stood
flavours from the north, classics A favourite with celebrities, this the test of time. Locals, from
from the chef’s native Chennai wharf eatery with spectacular politicians to art students, get
and seafood dishes from Goa. Sit views is a real gem. It offers their morning coffee fix sitting on
at an outside table and dine modern versions of traditional the little stools on the footpath.
during sunset, or enjoy the cool, dishes from China, Japan, Hong
split-mezzanine interior. Kong and Southeast Asia and a Bill and Toni’s $
well-priced banquet menu. Italian Map 5 A1
Botanic Garden Restaurant $$ 74 Stanley St, East Sydney
Modern Australian Map 1 C3 Manta $$$ Tel 9360 4702
Royal Botanic Garden, Seafood Map 2 D4 A stalwart loved for its great-
Mrs Macquaries Rd 6 Cowper Wharf Roadway, value, no-frills Italian food,
Tel 9241 2419 Woolloomooloo strong coffee, free cordial and
An enchanting venue in the Tel 9332 3822 old-fashioned red tablecloths.
middle of the picturesque This destination is best enjoyed Enjoy simple but tasty and filling
Botanic Garden, featuring the from a prime position outside, pasta dishes upstairs, then head
original 19th-century façade and with fish so fresh they could have downstairs for gelato.
For key to prices see page 186
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 192 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  193

Bills $ of this stylish trattoria’s narrow stool and enjoy fresh, locally
Café Map 5 B2 dining room. The menu changes caught fish and delicious
433 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst weekly and is determined by seafood dishes.
Tel 9360 9631 the fresh seasonal produce that
Regulars would be up in arms if is available. Delicious, authentic Fu Manchu $$
owner-chef Bill Granger’s famous Italian cuisine. Asian Map 5 B1
ricotta hotcakes were ever taken 229 Darlinghurst Rd,
off the menu here. Breakfast or Bar Brosé $$ Darlinghurst
brunch is the best time to visit. Contemporary Map 5 B1 Tel 9360 9424
231A Victoria St, Darlinghurst A smart dining room with
Flour and Stone $ Tel 0450 307 117 Closed Mon carved timber screens and
Café Map 5 A1 This long, narrow wine bar and silk cushions on the chairs.
53 Riley St, Woolloomooloo foodie haven buzzes with Portions are small but delicious.
Tel 8068 8818 Closed Sun atmosphere. Enjoy delicious Finish with a cocktail at the
There are savoury offerings such sharing plates, the famous Late adjoining Eau de Vie.
as gourmet tarts, pies and sand- Night Sandwich filled with
wiches, but it’s the sweet treats pineapple-glazed leg ham and Lucio Pizzeria $$
here that get customers salivating. an extensive list of fine wines. Italian Map 5 A2
Delights range from lamingtons 248 Palmer St, Darlinghurst
and lemon drizzle cake, to more Billy Kwong $$ Tel 9332 3766 Closed Tue
healthy bran muffins. Chinese-Australian Map 2 E5 A superb slice of Naples in the
Shop 1, 28 Macleay St, Potts Point corner of a piazza, with relaxed
Fratelli Paradiso $ Tel 9332 3300 indoor or outdoor dining in the
Italian Map 2 E4 Celebrity chef Kylie Kwong puts pretty courtyard. There’s a good
12–16 Challis Ave, Potts Point her unique spin on Chinese food, menu of antipasti to start and
Tel 9357 1744 featuring locally grown, organic indulgent desserts – but it’s really
This spot morphs from breakfast and biodynamic produce, with all about perfect pizza.
and lunch café to sassy wine bar a strong focus on Australian
and restaurant. No bookings, native bush foods. The steamed Ms G’s $$
so arrive early. Go for the fabulous mini pork buns and saltbush Modern Asian Map 2 E5
breakfasts or, later, for the pasta, cakes are highlights. 155 Victoria St, Potts Point
tiramisu and Italian cheeses. Tel 8313 1000
Casoni $$ Four levels of fabulous fun.
Govinda’s $ Italian Map 5 A2 This place is styled like no
Vegetarian Buffet Map 5 B1 371–373 Bourke St (cnr Foley St), other: there’s a pink neon-
112 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst Darlinghurst bathed entrance, graffiti wall,
Tel 9380 5155 Closed Mon, Tue Tel 0449 516 798 Closed Mon rows of jars on the ceiling and
Pile up a plate of curries, breads Be surprised, as the chef creates veggie garden courtyard. And
and salads from the opulent buffet. a new pasta dish daily, which is the food? Mouthwateringly
For a little extra, lie on cushions on the menu until sold out. There excellent. Don’t miss the spicy
or couches and watch a movie at are plenty of other Italian squid ink nasi goreng (Indonesian
the boutique cinema upstairs. choices, too, at a place that puts stir-fried rice).
an emphasis on shared dishes,
Harry’s Café de Wheels $ fun times and fresh food. Red Lantern on Riley $$
Pie Cart Map 2 E4 Vietnamese Map 5 A1
Cnr Cowper Wharf Roadway & The Fish Shop $$ 60 Riley St, Darlinghurst
Brougham Rd, Woolloomooloo Seafood Map 2 E4 Tel 9698 4355 Closed Mon
Tel 8346 4100 22 Challis Ave, Potts Point Go on a flavour journey to old
Now at several locations, this Tel 9326 9000 Saigon with a focus on shared
branch is the original and best, A little piece of The Hamptons dishes from celebrity chef Luke
serving meat pies topped with in Potts Point, with its white- Nguyen and his team, in a
mashed potato, peas and gravy washed walls and fun East Coast designer setting that evokes
to sailors, taxi drivers, celebrities, American seaside feel. Grab a French-Colonial Vietnam.
tourists and locals since the Great
Depression in 1938.
Phamish $
Vietnamese Map 5 B2
50 Burton St, Darlinghurst
Tel 9357 2688 Closed Mon
A small place with moody red-
and-black interiors. It can get
very crowded, but service is swift.
Seating is on small stools, so don’t
come expecting to recline after
a flavoursome and filling meal.
A Tavola $$
Italian
348 Victoria St, Darlinghurst
Tel 9331 7871 Closed Sun
Join fellow diners at the long
pink-marble table, the centrepiece Poolside Café, a relaxing dining venue with superb views
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81

186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 193 29/05/17 12:16 pm

194  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Riley Street Garage $$ Bellevue Dining $$
Modern Australian Map 5 A1 Paddington Pub Map 6 E3
55 Riley St, Woolloomooloo 159 Hargrave St, Paddington
Tel 9326 9055 Closed Sun Ampersand Café & Bookstore $ Tel 9363 2293
This former 1930s car depot, Café Map 5 B3 A Chefs Hat Award-winning
garage and machine shop pays 78 Oxford St, Paddington restaurant tucked away at the
homage to its heritage with a Tel 9380 6617 back of a pub. There are more
stylish fit-out and food “for all your Soak up the tranquillity at upmarket offerings than in most
gastronomic service and repairs”. this charming café in a quaint pubs, with European dishes taking
Dishes are designed for sharing. second-hand bookstore. pride of place on the menu.
There’s a lovely selection
Tilbury Hotel $$ of breakfast items, baked Big Mama’s $$
Pub Map 2 D5 goods, sandwiches, pastas Italian Map 6 E4
12–18 Nicholson St, Woolloomooloo and salads – and more than 51 Moncur St, Woollahra
Tel 9368 1955 Closed Mon 30,000 books over three levels. Tel 9328 7629 Closed Mon
(restaurant; café open daily) A long-established, old-style
Try breakfast or a light bite from Crème Café $ trattoria with a large menu
the small but tasty selection in the Café Map 6 E4 for lengthy, relaxed dinners.
café, or enjoy a more substantial 101–103 Queen St, Woollahra The generous portions of
meal in the restaurant dining Tel 9327 6543 uncomplicated but delicious
room looking out on a courtyard. Stroll one of the prettiest streets food and friendly service mean
in Paddington, then enjoy you’ll feel like one of the family.
Trunk Road $$ breakfast, lunch or a sweet treat
Indian Map 5 A1 at the outdoor tables on the Bistro Moncur $$
163 Crown St, Darlinghurst footpath, shaded by giant French Map 6 E4
Tel 8354 1096 trees. Dine alfresco Friday and The Woollahra Hotel, 116 Queen St,
Get your fill of delectable Indian Saturday evenings – if the Woollahra
fare without emptying your weather permits. Tel 9327 9713
wallet. Try the curry chips and This stylish spot is more Paris
the curry of the day. The house Tiger Mottle $ bistro than pub, delivering
speciality, Roadies, a nod to Café Map 6 D2 a consistently good menu
Kolkata street food, has spicy 248 Glenmore Rd, Paddington of classic dishes, complemented
fillings wrapped in paratha bread. Tel 0402 520 516 by daily specials made from
In a restored terrace house, Tiger the best available Australian
DK Choice Mottle is a good place for seasonal produce.
relaxing over a great coffee and
Yellow $$ delicious brunch or burgers Brigade Dining $$
Vegetarian Map 2 E4 against a backdrop of vinyl Modern Australian Map 6 D4
57 Macleay St, Potts Point records playing on the turntable. 2A Oxford St, Woollahra
Tel 9332 2344 Tel 9357 0815 Closed Sun
Reinvented as a vegetarian 10 William Street $$ A contemporary restaurant
restaurant, Yellow takes meat- Italian Map 6 D4 located above the Light
free cooking to new heights 10 William St, Paddington Bridge Hotel. Start with a
with delicious, beautiful-looking Tel 9360 3310 Closed Sun drink downstairs, then head
dishes that even meat-lovers A great vibe at this small wine upstairs for dinner, where
will enjoy. The building’s artistic bar and restaurant that oozes generous servings of flavourful
history brought bohemia to style. Servings are small, so don’t food come jam-packed with
Potts Point, first as an art gallery, come hungry. Order tapas-style interesting ingredients.
then as home to contemporary dishes, and enjoy a matching
illustrator Martin Sharp and his drink recommended by the Buzo $$
Yellow House artist collective. helpful bar staff. Modern European Map 6 D4
3 Jersey Rd, Woollahra
Tel 9328 1600 Closed Mon
Beppi’s $$$ Diners will be spoilt for choice
Italian Map 4 F3 at this cosy restaurant that offers
21 Yurong St, East Sydney a lighter take on traditional
Tel 9360 4558 Closed Sun European food and some classic
This restaurant has been delivering Australian dishes. There is a
Italian hospitality and fine food seasonal à-la-carte menu, a bar
that’s all about taste not trends menu, a fantastic tasing menu
since 1956. Ask for a table in the and an extensive wine list.
magnificent cellar room.
Four in Hand by Guillaume $$
Macleay Street Bistro $$$ Pub Map 6 E3
Modern French Map 2 E5 105 Sutherland St, Paddington
73A Macleay St, Potts Point Tel 9326 2254
Tel 9358 4891 Savour sophisticated cuisine by
The small seasonal menu and master French chef Guillaume
weekly specials board of artfully Brahimi in an intimate, casual
prepared dishes, raise the food dining space. The same quality
above typical bistro fare. This is a food, but with some more
touch of France in an area known The minimalist interiors of Saint Peter, a affordable options, is available
as the Paris end of Potts Point. seafood restaurant in Paddington on the bar menu.
For key to prices see page 186
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 194 29/05/17 12:16 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  195

Fred’s $$
Modern Australian Map 6 D4
380 Oxford St, Woollahra
Tel 9240 3000 Closed Mon
There’s a commitment to ethically
produced, sustainable local
produce here, so you can feel
good about your meal cooked
on free-standing Tuscan grills
and a custom-made hearth.
Hotel Centennial $$
Pub Map 6 E5
88 Oxford St, Woollahra
Tel 9362 3838
On a road overlooking Centennial
Park, the relaxed dining area
here is beautifully fitted out for
dining in style. The menu offers Beppi’s, serving fine Italian classic dishes
a modern take on comfort food,
using fresh, seasonal produce. Vino e Cucina $$
Italian Map 5 C3 Further Afield
The London Hotel $$ 211 Glenmore Rd, Paddington
Pub Map 6 D3 Tel 9331 7389 Badde Manors $
85 Underwood St (cnr William St), Pasta, pizza and traditional dishes Café
Paddington are made with fresh produce to 37 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe
Tel 9331 3200 create simple flavours. The Tel 9660 3797
You will not go hungry at this service is friendly, but it can get Keeping the locals happy and
historic pub nestled in the winding loud and raucous during busy nourished since 1992, the café
back streets. There’s an array of clas- periods. The seats out the back fare here is simple and reliable.
sics available here – pasta, steaks are quieter. There’s a good Italian From the twin angels on the
and fish – as well as a separate wine list, too. awning outside, to the retro
pizza menu. Warm, friendly service. fittings inside, the decor is quirky.
Wine Library $$
The Paddington $$ European Map 6 D4 Il Baretto $
Modern Australian Map 6 D4 18 Oxford St, Woollahra Italian Map 5 A4
384 Oxford St, Paddington Tel 9360 5686 496 Bourke St, Surry Hills
Tel 9240 3000 An array of small dishes is offered Tel 9361 6163 Closed Sun, Mon
Part relaxed pub, part cocktail to share here from a menu that Simple Italian cooking with home-
bar, The Paddington serves spans charcuterie, items “from made pasta is served in a crowded
up hearty rotisserie meats, fish, the sea”, meats, salads, cheeses space that can mean queues for a
vegetables, and lighter meals and desserts. There’s also a table. The signature pappardelle
to share. A late-night menu 29-page wine list, in what must duck ragù is a menu stalwart.
is available after 10:30pm. be Sydney’s loudest library.
Belle’s Hot Chicken $
Paddington Inn $$ Buon Ricardo $$$ Café Map 4 D1
Pub Map 6 D4 Italian Map 5 C2 33 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo
338 Oxford St, Paddington 108 Boundary St, Paddington Tel 8355 7879
Tel 9380 5913 Tel 9360 6729 Closed Sun, Spicy southern fried chicken is the
A perennially popular pub. Mon speciality at this waterfront café,
The front bar serves hand - Owner-chef Armando Percuoco offering a variety of fast food, from
made burgers, whereas the has been serving up the fine chicken wings to chicken and
contemporary dining room flavours of Italy since 1987. The waffles, and organic wines.
with white-washed brick walls delicious food focuses on dishes
has a modern menu. from his native Naples, and is Bean Drinking $
made to order; the truffled-egg Café
DK Choice fettuccine is tossed at the table. 1/13 Ernest Place, Crows Nest
Tel 9436 1678
Saint Peter $$ Lucio’s $$$ This speciality coffee and espresso
Seafood Map 6 D4 Italian Map 6 D3 bar has a grass area out the front
362 Oxford St, Paddington 47 Windsor St, Paddington for the kids to run around on
Tel 8937 2530 Closed Mon, Tue Tel 9380 5996 Closed Sun, while grown-ups choose from the
Exceptional sustainably Mon mostly organic all-day menu.
sourced seafood is served with An art gallery in a fine-dining
impeccable attention to detail in restaurant – the walls are Brewtown $
a minimalist setting. The menu adorned with works by Australian Café
changes daily and all parts of artist Tim Storrier, and the menu 6–8 O’Connell St, Newtown
the fish are used innovatively to covers are designed by another Tel 9519 2920
deliver taste without waste. Australian artist, John Olsen. The This micro roaster and brew bar
There is a custom-designed cool artistry also extends to the food, takes its coffee seriously. The
room for dry-aged fish, as well which focuses on Northern breakfast and lunch menus
as a dedicated pastry chef. Italian dishes; the pesto is even feature seasonal, organic and
freshly ground at the table. pasture-fed produce.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
186-197_EW_Sydney.indd 195 29/05/17 12:16 pm

196  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Café Mint $
Middle Eastern
579 Crown St, Surry Hills
Tel 9319 0848 Closed Mon
If the small cosy space doesn’t
warm your heart, the quality of
the food will. Mediterranean and
Lebanese classics pack a flavour
punch – from hot breakfasts to
lunch meze plates, with salad,
dips and bread. Be sure to try
the hummus and lamb mince.
The Crabbe Hole $
Café
1 Knotts Ave, Bondi Beach
Tel 0450 272 223
A tiny spot but big on views and
value. Perched above the Bondi
Icebergs ocean pool, here you Stunning view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House at Aqua Dining
can grab a coffee, breakfast roll,
sandwich or ice cream after Shenkin Kitchen $ Aqua Dining $$
swimming and see the beach life Middle Eastern Café Italian
unfold. Great for people-watching. 129 Enmore Rd, Enmore Cnr Paul & Northcliff Sts,
Tel 9519 7463 Milson’s Point
Fika Swedish Kitchen $ Awarded Sydney’s best breakfast. Tel 9964 9998
Café It’s worth the wait for the This restaurant is perched above
5B Market Lane shakshuka, served in a copper the North Sydney Olympic Pool,
Tel 9976 5099 pan with a thick, rich tomato with a sweeping view across the
A bright space with splashes of sauce and soft-boiled eggs, with harbour to the Bridge and Opera
blue and yellow. Enjoy traditional wads of bread to soak it up. House. The food is good, if pricey,
Swedish breakfast offerings like but it’s mostly about the view.
Kalles cod roe on crispbread, Sonoma $
washed down with Scandinavian Café Automata $$
hot chocolate or, later in the day, 215A Glebe Point Rd, Glebe Contemporary
Swedish beer. Tel 9660 2116 5 Kensington St, Chippendale
This place may be small in space Tel 5277 8555 Closed Mon
Kensington Street Social $ but it is big on flavour – from the In a warehouse-style interior,
Contemporary must-try breakfast rolls, which Automata offers a superb five-
3 Kensington St, Chippenale will keep you fuelled for hours, to course set menu that changes
Tel 8277 8533 the wonderful artisan breads. regularly. Drinks range from wine,
A very modern and polished take and beer to sake.
on snacks, bread bases and drinks, Tom Yum Tum Gang $
including a Vegemite-infused Thai Barzura $$
cocktail, plus more substantial 249 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe Modern Australian
dishes, are served in a wonderful Tel 8065 0859 62 Carr St, Coogee
industrial heritage interior. It’s always busy here, but the Tel 9665 5546
prompt, courteous service means A café, restaurant and bar, so
Maya $ you won't wait long to taste the come for breakfast, lunch, dinner
Indian Vegetarian home-style Thai that keeps locals or a drink, with spectacular views
470 Cleveland St, Surry Hills coming back for more. over Coogee Beach. There’s even
Tel 9699 8663 a healthy menu for the kids.
Join the diverse crowd of X74 Café $
students, taxi drivers and foodies Café
at this humble purveyor of 10 Bream St, Coogee
authentic treats. Try thali plates Tel 9665 2222
of assorted curries and breads This eatery draws a crowd away
and the famous masala dosa. from the beach with classic
Finish with Indian fudge. A simple breakfast choices on its all-day
setting offering fabulous food. menu, and some filling dinner
options in the evening.
Rabbit Hole Organic Tea Bar $
Café Map 4 D1 3 Weeds Restaurant $$
Shop 1, 23 Barangaroo Ave, Modern Australian
Barangaroo 197 Evans St, Rozelle
Tel 9045 3756 Tel 9818 2788 Closed Sun, Mon
Tea lovers rejoice – here Start with a drink at the bar
you will find everything from at this pub-restaurant off
tea lattes to tea sodas on tap, Balmain and Rozelle’s main
with more than 20 original tea drag, where the vibe is casual
blends. The menu also features and comfortable. The food
a delicious range of tea-inspired served in the stylish dining Mouthwatering Indian thali, as served at
sweet and savoury foods. room is top-notch. Maya, in Surry Hills
For key to prices see page 186
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  197

Bondi Trattoria $$ signature pizzas and decadent location of this gastronomic
Italian desserts are served at lunch or icon. If you don’t have the time –
34 Campbell Parade, Bondi dinner, or try the Afternoon Deck or wallet – for a long lunch or
Tel 9365 4303 menu (3–6pm) for light snacks, dinner, a bar menu provides a
A long-time favourite on the strip more pizza and sweet treats. casual, affordable alternative.
opposite the beach, with some of
the best pizza and gelato in the Icebergs Bistro $$ Pilu at Freshwater $$$
city. Get the day off to a great start Bistro Italian
with a filling “Bondi Trat” breakfast. Bondi Icebergs, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi End of Moore Rd, Freshwater
Tel 9130 3120 Tel 9938 3331 Closed Mon
Chiswick $$ An old-school club bistro: find a You will wish you could move
Modern Australian Map 6 F3 table, order hearty pub-style into this gorgeous cottage by the
65 Ocean St, Woollahra meals at the counter, and choose beautiful Freshwater Beach.
Tel 8388 8688 from a wide selection of drinks at There are whitewashed walls,
A delightful white, bright, the bar. Enjoy the same view as crisp white linen, attentive staff
cheerful casual dining venue the very expensive restaurant and food that will leave you
in a small park with fresh upstairs. The place is packed at very satisfied.
produce from the kitchen weekends, so come early to
garden. The menu includes a secure your spot. Sean’s Panorama $$$
range of dishes for sharing – or Modern Australian
just indulge yourself. Manly Wharf Hotel $$ 270 Campbell Parade, Bondi
Pub Tel 9365 4924 Closed Mon, Tue
Continental Deli Bar & Bistro $$ Manly Wharf, 21 East Esplanade, The tiny dining room here makes
Bistro Manly for an intimate experience – and
210 Australia St, Newtown Tel 9977 1266 means booking is essential. Sean’s
Tel 8624 3131 Steaks, burgers, chicken, salads, Panorama has been serving artful
Serving cured meats, fine pizza, seafood and a kids΄ menu meals cooked with care since
cheeses, canned goods and all- to keep the little ones happy – 1993, and the iconic handmade
things delicatessen, this is a good it’s all on offer at this relaxed spot nougat is still the best.
place for sophisticated bar with harbour views that are
snacks, and a quality wine list. worth the price alone. A friendly
place with excellent staff.
Coogee Pavillion $$ Beyond Sydney
Modern Australian The Boathouse on
169 Dolphin St, Coogee Blackwattle Bay $$$ True to the Bean $
Tel 9664 2900 Modern Australian Map 3 A3 Café
Family-friendly and fun, there’s End of Ferry Rd, Glebe 123 Katoomba St, Katoomba
something for everyone in this Tel 9518 9011 Closed Mon Tel 4782 6926
multi-level, beachfront pavilion, On the upper level of a boat Coffee and waffles are the
from breakfast to oysters, burgers, shed, with views across the dynamic duo here. Come for
grills and wood-fired pizza. There’s working harbour, here you will enough caffeine and sugar to
even a nostalgic games area, find a changing menu, but fuel a day exploring the
barbershop and flower stand. seafood dominates – which is mountains or for a post-
not surprising, with the fish adventure afternoon tea break.
Garfish $$ markets across the water. There’s
Seafood also an extensive oyster menu. Ashcrofts $$$
2/21 Broughton St, Kirribilli (off European
Burton St) Catalina $$$ 18 Govetts Leap Rd, Blackheath
Tel 9922 4322 Modern Australian Tel 4787 8297 Closed Mon–Wed
The menu promises the best 1 Sunderland Ave, Lyne Park, Rose Bay A cosy mountain hideaway with
seafood from each season – you Tel 9371 0555 warm lighting, village hospitality
choose how you’d like it prepared. Seafood is the speciality here, and personal touches that whet
Try the locals’ favourite, snapper befitting the harbourside the appetite for the meal ahead.
pie, or go early for a breakfast of
smoked salmon and eggs.
Glebe Point Diner $$
Modern Australian Map 3 A4
407 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe
Tel 9660 2646
Come here for wholesome
hearty food from a seasonal
menu, with the bread, butter
and pasta all made from scratch
and served in a relaxed space.
A “local” feel, with friendly staff.
Hugo’s Manly $$
Italian
Manly Wharf, East Esplanade, Manly
Tel 8116 8555
Hip Sydney at its lazy, waterfront
best. Contemporary Italian, Manly Wharf Hotel – a beautiful setting for a friendly dining experience
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81

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198  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPS AND MARKETS

The range of goods on offer in Sydney is many fields, notably jewellery, fashion and
enormous. The city centre has numerous indigenous arts and crafts. Markets sell
elegant arcades, shopping malls and everything from fresh produce to clothes. The
boutiques, with plenty of nooks and crannies most interesting shopping does not stop at
to explore. Major international labels, the city centre; there are several “satellite”
including luxury brands and high-street alternatives. Some of the best shopping areas
chains, sit alongside the best local talent in are highlighted on pages 200–201.


Prices include a 10 per cent
Goods and Services Tax (GST).
Sales
Many shops conduct sales all
year round. The big depart-
ment stores of David Jones
and Myer have two gigantic
clearance sales each year. The
post-Christmas sales start on 26
December, lasting into January.
The other major sale time is
during June, in the lead up to
the end of the financial year. Chifley Tower, with the Chifley Plaza
A typical junk-shop-cum-café in Balmain shopping arcade at its base
(see p133)
Tax-Free Sales Arcades and Malls
Shopping Hours Duty-free shops are found in the The Queen Victoria Building
Most shops are open from city centre as well as at Kingsford (see p84) is Sydney’s most
10am to 5:30pm each day of the Smith Airport (see p228). You palatial shopping space.
week, though some may close can save 10 per cent on goods Four levels contain more
early on Sundays. On Thursdays, such as perfume, jewellery and than 200 shops. The top level,
most shops stay open until watches and perhaps up to Victoria Walk, is devoted to
9pm. Most shops in Chinatown 30 per cent on alcohol, but you merchan dise such as silver,
are open late every evening. must show your pass port and antiques, designer knitwear
onward ticket. Some stores will and high-quality souvenirs.
also deliver your goods to the The Strand Arcade (see p86)
How to Pay airport to be picked up on was origi nally built in 1892.
Major credit and debit cards are departure. Duty-free items Jewellery, designer wear,
accepted almost everywhere. must be kept in their sealed chocolates, coffee shops and
Department stores will exchange bags until you leave the city. tea rooms are its stock in trade.
goods or refund your money if You can claim back the Pitt Street Mall shopping
you are not satisfied, provided GST paid on most goods, precinct contains several
you have the receipt. Other stores purchased for A$300 or shopping centres, including
will only refund if an item is faulty. more, at the airport (see p219). Mid City Centre, which has
local and global brands
popular with a young crowd
and Westfield Sydney,
featuring numerous local and
international designer brand
stores, including Zara, Leona
Edmiston, Gucci and Gap.
Next door to the Hilton, The
Galeries houses the fantastic
Kinokuniya book store, which
sells both Australian and
American imprints as well as
Chinese and Japanese
language, anime art books and
stationery. The Monsterthreads
Inside Gleebooks, popular with students and locals in Glebe (see p133) mixes folk and street art with




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