Lonely Planet Vietnam

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Vietnam

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Edition 13th Edition
Release Date Aug 2016
Pages 520

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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
PLAN YOUR TRIP
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Your planning tool kit
Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating
you create the perfect trip.
2 Activities 6 Drinking
ON THE ROAD
C Courses 3 Entertainment
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use T Tours 7 Shopping
maps & insider tips.
z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
UNDERSTAND
& Events
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, to All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
make sense of what you see. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
SURVIVAL GUIDE suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
Your at-a-glance reference Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Vital practical information range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
for a smooth trip. ranges, by author preference.

These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:

Must-visit recommendation

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Vietnam

Northern
Vietnam

p99
Hanoi
p54

Central
Vietnam

p152

Siem Reap & the

Temples of Angkor

(Cambodia)

p417 Southwest
Highlands
p287
Southeast
Coast
p233
Ho Chi
Minh City
Mekong p311
Delta
p366

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Iain Stewart,
Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski, Jessica Lee,

Nick Ray, Benedict Walker

PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP

HUYTHOAI/GETTY IMAGES © Welcome to Vietnam. . . . . 4 HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Lang Co Beach. . . . . . . . . . 192
Vietnam Map. . . . . . . . . . . 6 Hai Van Pass & Tunnel. . . . 193
PETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES © Vietnam’s Top 20. . . . . . . 8 NORTHERN Ba Na Hill Resort. . . . . . . . 193
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . . 99 Danang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
First Time Vietnam. . . . . . 20 Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 199
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Northeast Vietnam. . . . . 102 Hoi An. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Ba Be National Park . . . . . 102 Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 220
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 25 Con Son & My Son. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Den Kiep Bac . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . 226
Vietnam Outdoors . . . . . . 36 Haiphong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Eat & Drink Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Bai Tu Long Bay. . . . . . . . . 120 SOUTHEAST
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 50 Mong Cai & COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
the Chinese Border. . . . . . 122
HA GIANG PROVINCE P148 Quang Ngai. . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Northwest Vietnam . . . . 127 Around Quang Ngai. . . . . 236
FLOWER HMONG PEOPLE, Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
BAC HA P145 Mai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 243
Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Dien Bien Phu. . . . . . . . . . . 131 Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 245
Muong Lay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Lai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 263
Sapa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Phan Rang &
Lao Cai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Thap Cham. . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Bac Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Ninh Chu Beach. . . . . . . . 265
Ha Giang Province. . . . . . . 148 Ca Na. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Mui Ne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
CENTRAL Phan Thiet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . 152 Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . . 273
Phan Thiet to
North-Central Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Vietnam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Ninh Binh Province . . . . . . 153 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Phong Nha-Ke Bang Con Dao Islands. . . . . . . . 279
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . . 167 SOUTHWEST
HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 287
South-Central
Vietnam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Dalat & Around. . . . . . . . . 289
Demilitarised Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . 298
Zone (DMZ). . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cat Tien
Dong Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 298
Quang Tri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Lak Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Around Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Bach Ma National Park. . 190

Contents

UNDERSTAND

Buon Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . 301 Can Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Vietnam Today . . . . . . . . 434
Around Buon Soc Trang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436
Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Ca Mau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 People & Culture . . . . . . 454
Pleiku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 U-Minh Forest. . . . . . . . . . 387 Arts & Architecture. . . . 460
Kon Tum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . 464
Phu Quoc Island. . . . . . . . 389 Environment. . . . . . . . . . 470
HO CHI MINH Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399
CITY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Chau Doc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 SURVIVAL
Sam Mountain . . . . . . . . . 409 GUIDE
Around Long Xuyen. . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . 359 Cao Lanh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 478
Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
Tay Ninh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . .364 SIEM REAP & Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 THE TEMPLES OF Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . 417 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . 518
MEKONG DELTA. . . . 366
Siem Reap. . . . . . . . . . . . 418
My Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
Ben Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Temples of Angkor. . . . 426
Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Angkor Wat. . . . . . . . . . . . 426
Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . 427

BRUNO DE HOGUES/GETTY IMAGES ©

SPECIAL
FEATURES

Vietnam Outdoors. . . . . . 36
Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 43
Hue in 3D. . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Scenes of Vietnam. . . . . 227
Angkor Wat in 3D. . . . . . 428

HOI AN P203

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to
Vietnam

Astonishingly exotic and utterly
compelling, Vietnam is a country of
breathtaking natural beauty with a
unique heritage, where travel quickly

becomes addictive.

Sensory Overload A Culinary Superpower

Unforgettable experiences are everywhere The Thais may grumble, but in Southeast
in Vietnam. There’s the sublime: gazing Asia nothing really comes close: Vietnam-
over a surreal seascape of limestone islands ese food is that good. Incredibly subtle in
from the deck of a traditional junk in Ha- its flavours and outstanding in its diversity,
long Bay. The ridiculous: taking 10 minutes Vietnamese cooking is a fascinating draw
just to cross the street through a tsunami for travellers – myriad street-food tours and
of motorbikes in Hanoi. The inspirational: cooking schools are testament to this. Geo­
exploring the world’s most spectacular cave graphy plays a crucial role, with Chinese
systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National flavours influencing the soups of the north,
Park. The comical: watching a moped spices sparking up southern cuisine, and
loaded with honking pigs weave a wobbly herbs and complex techniques typifying
route along a country lane. And the con- the central coastline, rightly renowned as
templative: witnessing a solitary grave in a Vietnam’s epicurean epicentre. And up and
cemetery of thousands of war victims. down the country you can mingle with vil-
lagers, sample local dishes and sip rice wine
War, Peace & Progress in Vietnam’s many regional markets.

Forty years after the carnage and destruc- Thrills & Chills
tion of an epoch-defining conflict, Vietnam
is resolutely a nation, not a war, in the If you’ve got the bills, Vietnam’s got the
eyes of the world. Self-confident and fast- thrills and chills. Some require a little
developing, its progress is all-evident in the physical effort, such as motorbiking switch-
country’s booming metropolises. Vietnam’s back after switchback up the jaw-dropping
allure is easy to appreciate (and something Hai Van Pass in central Vietnam. Others
of a history lesson) as ancient, labyrinthine require even more sweat: kitesurfing the
trading quarters of still-thriving craft in- tropical oceanic waters off Mui Ne or hiking
dustries are juxtaposed with grand colonial the evergreen hills around Bac Ha or Sapa.
mansions from the French era, all overseen And when you’re done with all that adrena-
from the skybars of 21st-century glass-and- line stuff, there’s plenty of horizontal ‘me’
steel highrises. time to relish. Vietnam has outstanding
spas – from marble temples of treatments,
to simple family-run massage salons with
backpacker-friendly rates.

JAKKREE THAMPITAKKUL/500PX © 5

Why I Love Vietnam

By Iain Stewart, Writer
I find myself returning to Vietnam for the same reasons: to feast on the best seafood in the
world, ride a lonely mountain pass I’ve not yet experienced, and search for that perfect cove
beach I’ve not yet found. The country has changed immeasurably since I first arrived in 1991
(when the nation was still shell-shocked from the war with the USA and Hanoi was a city of
bicycles) but I continue to be astounded by the spirit, determination and sheer lust for life of
the Vietnamese people.
For more about our writers, see page 520

Above: Terraced rice fields, Sapa (p136)

Vietnam 0 200 km
0 120 miles

Sapa Trekking Lai Chau Ha Giang CHINA 20ºN
Hike through tribal (Tam Duong) Nanning 18ºN
Lao Bac Ha
villages (p137) Cai Ba Be Cao Bang Paracel
National Park Islands
Sapa Hoang Lien Extreme North
Muong Lay National Park Ba Be Lakes Pingxiang Hill tribes and spectacular
(Lai Chau)
MYANMAR Dien Bien FTG(3uaia1nao4sni3pmSaon)nMHLooauanntgaYMieLnnaiNsieBCNanatBhaCiiPoaatauiunVorVcanikeliPathlTPuroiaTQnruHukgyoaenangBinhNTHhgLDAauaiuHnyNoBeganaOniTScghoINaniinBhHinahHipCCIahslailootMtaynnnBgogdangHBCaaaliyoBLnoagmni DgToouuBnangytxainign scenery (p148)
(BURMA) Phu
Zhanjiang
Tay Trang
Halong Bay
Ba Be National Park Thousands of amazing
Forested peaks and fine limestone islands (p107)

hiking (p102)
LAOS

Nam Xoi Na Meo Tam Ninh Binh
Coc

Thanh Hoa

Hanoi Nong Nam Can
Captivating capital steeped Phonsavan Haet
Hainan
in history (p54) Island
(China)
Gulf of
Vinh Tonkin

VIENTIANE Cau Ha Tinh Phong Nha-Ke Bang
Treo National Park
Mekong Nam
Phao Caves, rivers and outstanding
mountain scenery (p162)
River Cha Lo
Tha Khaek Na Phao Dong Hoi

Phong Nha-Ke
Bang National
Park Dong Ha Hue
Lao Majestic former imperial
Bao
capital (p174)
Dansavanh

Khe Sanh Hue

Savannakhet Bach Ma Danang
THAILAND National Cham
Islands
Park
Hoi An
My Son Tam Ky Hoi An
A delightful ancient port
Pakse Quang Ngai
(p203)
Attapeu Bo Y
SOUTH
Angkor Wat (Cambodia) Kon Tum CHINA
One of the wonders Pleiku
of the world (p426) C e n t r a l H i gh l an d s SEA
CAMBODIA Mekong River 14ºN
BANGKOK
Angkor Wat
Siem Reap Quy Nhon

Battambang Tonlé Yok Don
Sap National
Tuy Hoa Dalat
Park Atmospheric old French
Buon Ma
hill station (p289)
Thuot

Gulf of Cat Tien National Park Nha Trang
Thailand Wildlife-spotting, hiking
Dalat 12ºN
ELEVATION and biking (p298)
Cat Tien
1500m PHNOM Tay Ninh National Phan Rang & Mui Ne
1000m PENH Cu Chi Park Thap Cham Cosmopolitan beach and
500m Kaam Samnor watersport resort (p265)
200m Vinh Xuong Mui Ne
0
Takeo HO CHI MINH Bien Hoa Phan
CITY (SAIGON) Thiet
Kampot Tinh Chau
Doc Cao Lanh
Duong Ha Tien Bien My Tho
Ben Tre
Dong Long Long Hai Ho Chi Minh City
Xuyen Vinh Vung Vietnam at its liveliest,
Rach Tau
Phu Quoc Gia Can Tho Long Tra Vinh buzzing best (p311)
Island 10ºN

Mekong Soc Trang
Delta
PaPrhaduisQeuisolcanIdslainntdhe
Gulf of Thailand (p389) Ca Mau Bac Lieu Con Dao FarCoount,DfaaroeIasslta(npd2s79)

Con Dao National 110ºE
Islands Park

102ºE 104ºE 106ºE 108ºE

8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Vietnam’s

Top 20

9

Food Hoi An

1 Locally sourced and seasonal, complex 2 Vietnam’s most cosmopolitan and
and refined, Vietnamese food (p464) civilised town, this beautiful ancient
is perhaps Asia’s greatest culinary secret. port is bursting with gourmet restaurants,
Essentially it’s all about the freshness of hip bars and cafes, quirky boutiques and
the ingredients – chefs shop twice daily to expert tailors. Immerse yourself in history
collect just-picked herbs from the market. in the warren-like lanes of the Old Town,
The result? Incomparable texture and and tour the temples and pagodas. Dine
flavour combinations. For the Vietnamese, like an emperor on a peasant’s budget
a meal should balance sour and sweet, (and even learn how to cook like the lo-
crunchy and silky, fried and steamed, soup cals). Then hit glorious An Bang Beach,
and salad. Wherever you are, you’ll find wander along the riverside and bike the
exquisite local specialities – the ‘white back roads. Yes, Hoi An (p203) has it all.
rose’ of Hoi An, the canh chua (a fish and
vegetable soup) of the Mekong Delta or the
good ol’ pho of the north.

MEOGIAPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©
IAIN BAGWELL/LONELY PLANET ©

10

Phong Nha-Ke Bang Halong Bay
National Park
4 Halong Bay’s (p107) stunning com-
3 With hills shrouded in rainforest, and bination of karst limestone peaks
mountain rivers coursing through ra- and sheltered, shimmering seas is one of
vines, above ground the Phong Nha-Ke Bang Vietnam’s top tourist draws, but with more
region (p162) is one of Vietnam’s most spec- than 2000 different islands, there’s plenty
tacular national parks. Head underground of superb scenery to go around. Definitely
for proof that this area should be part of any book an overnight cruise and make time for
Vietnamese itinerary. A fortunate selec- your own special moments on this World
tion of travellers can experience Hang Son Heritage wonder – rise early for an ethereal
Doong, the world’s largest cave, but more misty dawn, or pilot a kayak into grottoes
accessible are the ziplining and kayaking and lagoons. If you’re hankering for more
thrills of Hang Toi, and the ethereal beauty of karst action, move on to the less touristy
Paradise Cave. Hang En (p163) but equally spectacular Lan Ha Bay.
KEVIN BOUTWELL/500PX ©
3
PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0

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6

THUC NGUYEN/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ho Chi Minh City Hue

5 Increasingly international but still 6 The capital of the nation for 150 years
unmistakably Vietnamese, the former in the 19th and early 20th centuries,
Saigon’s visceral energy will delight big- Hue (p174) is perhaps the easiest Viet-
city devotees. HCMC (p311) doesn’t in- namese city to love and spend time in.
spire neutrality: you’ll either be drawn into Its situation on the banks of the Perfume
its thrilling vortex and hypnotised by the River is sublime, its complex cuisine justifi-
perpetual whir of its orbiting motorbikes, ably famous, and its streets are relatively
or you’ll find the whole experience over- traffic free. And that’s without the majesty
whelming. Dive in and you’ll be rewarded of the Hue Citadel, its royal residences
with a wealth of history, delicious food and and elegant temples, formidable walled
a vibrant nightlife that sets the standard defences and gateways to explore. On the
for Vietnam. The heat is always on in Sai- city’s fringes are some of Vietnam’s most
gon; loosen your collar and enjoy. impressive pagodas and royal tombs,
many in wonderful natural settings.

12 PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0 MINHHUE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
7

8

VUCONGDANH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Hanoi Extreme North

7 Ancient but dynamic, the nation’s 8 The extreme north of Vietnam is all
capital hurtles toward modernity, cau- about raw adventure travel. Ha Giang
tiously embracing visitors. Sample Hanoi’s province (p148) is Vietnam’s spectacular
(p54) heady mix of history and ambition by emerging destination for the intrepid, with
wandering the streets of the Old Quarter, dizzying ascents up the Quan Ba Pass
sipping drip-coffee, slurping on a hearty (Heaven’s Gate), towering karsts and gran-
bowl of bun rieu cua (hearty crab broth) ite outcrops, and jaw-dropping vistas on
and scoring souvenirs for next to nothing. the epic trip between Dong Van and Meo
When you’re done, check out the crum- Vac. And with improved roads, new trek-
bling decadence of the French Quarter king routes, minority markets and a wider
then zip up to cosmopolitan Tay Ho for choice of guesthouses, Vietnam’s final
finer dining and the lowdown on Hanoi’s frontier – now a Unesco-listed geopark – is
burgeoning art scene. really opening up. Ha Giang province (p148)

DELTAOFF/GETTY IMAGES © 13 PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0
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10

STEPHEN STUDD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Phu Quoc Island Markets

9 Lapped by azure waters and edged 10 From the floating markets of the
with the kind of white-sand beaches Mekong Delta, souvenir-rich streets
that make sun seekers sink to their weak of Hoi An, urban affairs of Ho Chi Minh City
knees, Phu Quoc (p389) – way down in the and the tribal gatherings in the highlands,
south of Vietnam – is ideal for slipping into Vietnamese markets are a riot of colour
low gear, reaching for a seaside cocktail and commerce. For photographers, mar-
and toasting a blood-orange sun as it dips kets are ideal for getting shots of Vietnam-
into the sea. And if you want to notch it up ese villagers and their perfectly arranged
a tad, grab a motorbike and hit the red-dirt pyramids of fruit or glistening seafood dis-
roads: the island’s the size of Singapore. plays. The region around the town of Bac
Ha (p145) is particularly market-rich and
should not be missed if you’re anywhere in
the north. Lacquered bowls, Bac Ha Market (p145)

14

PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 Con Dao Islands Cat Tien National Park

11 The furious energy that character- 12 An accessible and impressive
ises Vietnamese cities can be intoxi- protected area, Cat Tien (p298)
cating, but when you need an urban detox, lies conveniently midway between Ho Chi
these idyllic tropical islands make the per- Minh City and Dalat. It is set on a bend in
fect escape. Once hell on earth for a gener- the Dong Nai River, and there is something
ation of political prisoners, Con Dao (p279) vaguely Apocalypse Now about arriving
is now a heavenly destination of remote here. Popular activities include trekking,
beaches, pristine dive sites and diverse cycling and wildlife spotting: the Wild Gib-
nature. It’s a wonderful place to explore by bon Trek is a must. The park is also home
bike in search of that dream beach, while to a primate centre, where gibbons and
the main settlement of Con Son is one of langurs are coaxed back into their natural
Vietnam’s most charming towns. environment. Bar-bellied Pitta

11

CUONGVND/GETTY IMAGES ©

12

FEATHERCOLLECTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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15

INGRAM PUBLISHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Coffee Time Dalat Ba Be National
Park
13 Starbucks may 14 Dalat (p289) is
have opened its the queen of the 15 Detour off the regu-
first branch here in 2013, southwest highlands and lar Vietnam tourist
but in Vietnam, coffee has been popular with trail in Ba Be National Park
culture (p469) runs deep. international tourists since (p102), an essential des-
Virtually every neighbour- the days of the French tination for adventurous
hood in every town (and colonialists. Grand Gallic travellers, with towering
most villages) will have a villas are dotted amid pine limestone mountains,
little cafe where locals go groves and the whole town plunging valleys and ever-
to de-stress from the of- is centred on a pretty lake, green forests. Waterfalls,
fice, the family or simply with numerous nearby caves and lakes combine in
the traffic (most are lo- waterfalls adding to its a landscape that sustains
cated on quiet side streets natural appeal. Dalat is over 550 different plants
with copious greenery also fast becoming one of and hundreds of different
to promote relaxation). Vietnam’s key adventure- bird and animal species.
Vietnamese coffee can be sport hubs, with abseiling, Explore Ba Be’s natural
served hot or iced (a real canyoning, mountain- spectacle by boat or on
treat in summer), either biking, hiking and rafting trekking and mountain-
treacle-thick, or with milk all on off er. The temperate biking excursions, before
(usually sweetened and climate here will be quite a relaxing and recharging in
condensed) for a double- relief if you’ve been suffer- the rustic homestays and
whammy caffeine-sugar ing in Saigon. village guesthouses of the
kick. local Tay ethnic minority.

16 17
16 18

PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 NIGEL KILLEEN/GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

MRSIXINTHEMIX/GETTY IMAGES ©

Battle Sites Mui Ne Bia Hoi

16 In the centre of Viet- 17 Perhaps the adven- 18 One of the great
nam, the Demilita- ture sport epicentre pleasures of travel-
rised Zone (DMZ; p169) has of Vietnam, the relaxed, ling in Vietnam, bia hoi –
the greatest concentration prosperous beach resort fresh draught beer (p84) – is
of battle sites from the of Mui Ne (p265) is a kite- brewed daily, without ad-
American War (and some surfing capital with world- ditives or preservatives,
excellent tour operators class wind and conditions, to be drunk within hours.
to get you around them). and excellent schools for Incredibly cheap and wide-
Down south the Cu Chi professional training. For ly available, bia hoi is said
Tunnels are a very popular those who prefer dry land, to have been introduced
day trip from Ho Chi Minh sandboarding and golf to Hanoi by Czech brewers
City, while there are numer- are popular alternatives. over 40 years ago. Every
ous war sites around Vung The resort itself has more town has a bia hoi place,
Tau, which was a big AN- than 20km of palm-fringed often with a street terrace,
ZAC base. In the far north, beachfront that stretches offering a very local experi-
Dien Bien Phu should not invitingly along the shores ence. Park (or attempt to
be missed: there’s a good of the South China Sea. park) your rear on one of
new museum here to ex- From guesthouses to bou- the tiny plastic stools and
plain the significance of tique resorts, boho bars to get stuck in. Snacks to eat
the battle that precipitated fine-value spas, Mui Ne has are often sold too.
the French expulsion from a broad appeal.
Indochina. Hien Luong Bridge
over the Ben Hai River (p171), DMZ

17

Sapa Trekking Temples of Angkor PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0

19 Undulating rice terraces cascade 20 Over the border in Cambodia, the
down to valleys inhabited by Hmong, temples of Angkor (p426) form
Red Dzao and Giay villages. Up above, the one of the world’s most magnificent sights.
sinuous ridges of the Hoang Lien Mountains Choose from Angkor Wat itself, the world’s
(dubbed the Tonkinese Alps by the French) largest religious building; Bayon, with its
touch the sky. Brushed with every shade immense stone faces; or Ta Prohm, where
of green in the palette, the countryside nature runs amok. Siem Reap is the base
surrounding Sapa (p136) is a showcase of for exploring Angkor and is a buzzing des-
northern Vietnam’s most superb rural vis- tination with a superb selection of restau-
tas and a fascinating glimpse into the coun- rants and bars. Beyond the temples await
try’s astounding cultural diversity. This is activities like quad biking and ziplining, and
prime territory for digging out your walking cultured pursuits such as cooking classes
boots and hitting the trails. and birdwatching. Angkor Thom (p427)

19

CHAN SRITHAWEEPORN/GETTY IMAGES ©

20

BARTOSZ HADYNIAK/GETTY IMAGES ©

1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide (p477)

Currency When to Go

Dong (d) Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons
Language
Sapa #
Vietnamese GO Mar–May & Sep–Nov

Visas # Hanoi
GO Mar–May & Sep–Nov
Complicated and
fast-changing: some # Danang
nationalities need a visa GO Mar–Sep
in advance for all visits,
some don’t (for 15-day # Ho Chi Minh City
stays). GO Nov–Feb

Money High Season Shoulder Low Season
(Jul & Aug) (Dec–Mar) (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov)
ATMs can be found
throughout the country, ¨¨Prices increase ¨¨During the Tet ¨¨Perhaps the best
even in small towns, by up to 50% by the festival, the whole time to tour the
though charges for coast; book hotels country is on the whole nation.
withdrawls can be quite well in advance. move and prices rise. ¨¨Typhoons can
steep. In general cash is ¨¨All Vietnam, ¨¨North of Nha lash the central and
king in Vietnam, though except the far north, Trang can get cool northern coastline
credit and debit cards is hot and humid, weather. Expect cold until November.
can be used in many with the summer conditions in the very
hotels. monsoon bringing far north.
downpours. ¨¨In the south, clear
Mobile Phones skies and sunshine
are the norm.
To avoid roaming
charges, local SIM
cards can be used in
most European, Asian
and Australian (and
many North American)
phones.

Time

Vietnam is seven hours
ahead of GMT/UTC.

19

Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K no w
Vietnam
Vietnam Coracle (http:// Budget:
vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent Less than US$40 Tan Son Nhat International
independent travel advice from ¨¨Glass of bia hoi: from Airport (Ho Chi Minh City;
a long-term resident. US$0.50 p357) Taxis to central districts
Thanh Nien News (www.thanh ¨¨One hour on a local bus: (around 190,000d) take about
niennews.com) Government- US$1–1.50 30 minutes. There’s also an
approved news, but includes ¨¨Cheap hotel: US$10–15 a air-conditioned Route 152 bus
diverse and interesting content. night, dorms less (6000d, every 15 minutes, 6am
Lonely Planet (www.lonely ¨¨Local meal of noodles: to 6pm, around 40 minutes).
planet.com/vietnam) Destina- US$1.50–2.50 Noi Bai Airport (Hanoi;
tion information, hotel bookings, p94) Taxis to the centre cost
traveller forum and more. Midrange: 400,000d and take around
The Word (www.wordhcmc.com) US$40–100 50 minutes. Jetstar shuttles
Based in HCMC, this magazine ¨¨Comfortable double room: (35,000d) and Vietnam Airlines
has excellent coverage. US$25–50 minibuses (50,000d) run hourly.
Vietnam Online (www.vietnam ¨¨Meal in a smart restaurant: The Route 17 public bus to Long
online.com) Good all-rounder. from US$8 Bien bus station is 5000d.
Rusty Compass (www. ¨¨One-hour massage:
rustycompass.com) Useful US$6–20 Getting Around
online travel guide. ¨¨Ten-minute taxi ride: US$4
Buses are the main mode of
Important Top End: transport for locals in Vietnam,
Numbers More than US$100 but travellers tend to prefer
¨¨Luxury hotel room: from planes, trains and automobiles.
To call Vietnam from outside the US$80 Train Reasonably priced
country, drop the initial 0 from ¨¨Gourmet restaurant: from and comfortable enough in
the area code. Mobile numbers US$20 air-conditioned carriages (and
begin with %09 or %01. ¨¨Internal flight: US$30–100 sleepers). But note there are no
real express trains.
Country Code %84 Opening Hours Plane Cheap if you book ahead
%00 and the network is pretty com-
International Hours vary very little throughout prehensive. However, cancella-
Access Code %116 the year. tions are not unknown.
Banks 8am to 3pm weekdays, to Car Very useful for travelling
Directory %113 11.30am Saturday at your own pace or for visiting
Assistance %1080 Offices and museums 7am or regions with minimal public
8am to 5pm or 6pm; museums transport. Cars always come
Police generally close on Monday and with a driver.
some take a lunch break Bus On the main highways
General Restaurants 11.30am to 9pm services are very frequent,
Information Shops 8am to 6pm although it’s not a particularly
Service Temples and pagodas 5am relaxing way to travel. In the
to 9pm sticks things deteriorate rapidly.
Exchange Rates Open-tour buses are very inex-
pensive and worth considering.
Australia A$1 16,041d
Canada C$1 17,005d For much more on
Euro €1 24,495d getting around,
Japan ¥100 18,640d see p491
New NZ$1 17,676d
Zealand
UK £1 34,341d
US US$1 22,316d

For current exchange rates, see
www.xe.com.

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

First Time
Vietnam

For more information, see Survival Guide (p477)

Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip

¨¨Check out the visa ¨¨Prepare yourself for the crazy driving: traffic can come at you
situation; you may need to every which way, and in the cities swarms of motorbikes reach
apply in advance biblical proportions. Try to keep calm and consider arranging a
¨¨Make sure your passport massage after a long journey.
is valid for at least six months ¨¨Be aware that Vietnam has more than its fair share of scams;
past your arrival date most concern overcharging. Though very rare, there are some more
¨¨Check your immunisation serious dangers (like unexploded ordnance) to also be aware of.
history ¨¨In towns like Hue and Sapa, and beaches popular with tourists,
¨¨Arrange appropriate travel expect plenty of hustle from street vendors, cyclo (pedicab cycle
insurance rickshaw) drivers and the like. Off the beaten track there’s little or
¨¨Pre-book internal flights no hassle.
and trains ¨¨Load your bargaining head before you arrive.
¨¨Inform your debit-/credit-
card company What to Wear

What to Pack There are no serious cultural concerns about wearing inap-
propriate clothing in Vietnam. In religious buildings and
¨¨Good footwear – Vietnam’s government offices (or if attending a formal dinner), legs
streets are bumpy and lumpy should be covered and sleeveless tops avoided.
¨¨Mosquito repellent with
DEET Yes, Vietnam is in the tropics, but visit anywhere north of
¨¨Rain jacket Hoi An between October and March and it can be cool, so
¨¨Electrical adapter pack some layers (a fleece or two). The rest of the year, and
¨¨Torch (flashlight) in the south, flip-flops or sandals, a T-shirt and shorts are
¨¨Flip-flops or sandals likely to be your daily uniform.
¨¨Binoculars
Sleeping

Tourism is booming in Vietnam so it’s usually best to book
your accommodation a day or two in advance, or several
weeks ahead in the high season (the Tet holiday, July to
August, and around Christmas).
¨¨Hotels Range from simple functional minihotels to uber-luxurious
spa resorts.
¨¨Hostels Popular in the main tourism centres, but rare elsewhere.
¨¨Guesthouses Usually family-run and less formal than hotels.

21

Tours PL A N YO U R TRI P F irst T ime V ietnam

Vietnam can be a culture SOFT_LIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©
shock for many travellers.
Taking a tour can really
help you understand the
nation better. Cities includ-
ing Hanoi, Hoi An, Danang
and Nha Trang have street
food tours, while motorbike
tours are also very popular.

Bargaining Enjoy stunning views over Vietnam’s verdant bays

Bargaining is essential Etiquette
in Vietnam, but not for
everything. Sharpen your ¨¨Meals When dining with Vietnamese people, it’s customary for
haggling skills when shop- the most senior diner to pay for everyone.
ping in marketplaces and ¨¨Homes Remove your shoes when entering a private house.
in some small shops (that ¨¨Heads Don’t pat or touch an adult (or child) on the head.
sell souvenirs and the like), ¨¨Feet Avoid pointing your feet at people or sacred objects.
and when arranging local
transport like cyclos and xe Eating
om (motorbike taxi).
It’s rarely necessary to reserve a table in advance in Viet-
Many hotels will also of- nam. Exceptions include national park restaurants and
fer a discount if you ask for upmarket, select places in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
one. In restaurants, prices ¨¨Local restaurants Vietnamese restaurants tend to have
are fixed. purely functional decor and even look scruffy, but if they’re busy
the food will usually be fresh and delicious.
Some bus drivers try to ¨¨International restaurants In tourist areas many restaurants
overcharge foreigners. Bar- serve up Western and Asian food. Often the local food is toned
gain if you’re certain the down and not that authentic.
fare is overpriced. ¨¨Street food Pavement kitchens offer cheap, often incredibly
tasty, local grub.
Tipping ¨¨Cafes May have a snack or two available, but rarely meals.

¨¨Hotels Not expected. Leave
a small gratuity for cleaning
staff if you like.
¨¨Restaurants Not expected;
5% to 10% in smart restaurants
or if you’re very satisfied. Locals
don’t tip.
¨¨Guides A few dollars on
day trips is sufficient, more
for longer trips if the service
is good.
¨¨Taxis Not necessary, but
a little extra is appreciated,
especially at night.
¨¨Bars Never expected.

Language

English is not widely spoken in Vietnam. In the tourist
areas, most staff in hotels and restaurants will speak a lit-
tle, but communication problems are very common. A few
key phrases of Vietnamese go a long way.

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

What’s New

Bai Xep Lotte Tower, Hanoi
A cool beach scene is developing fast on The best place to gauge the voracity of
this lovely bay south of Quy Nhon, now Hanoi’s growth relative to the Old Quarter
home to three great beachside guesthouses. is from the observation deck of this spec-
(p238) tacular new landmark; it’s also home to
myriad bars and restaurants. (p71)
More Cave Trips
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park con- Mui Ne Backpacker Village
tinues to be an essential destination. New Travellers have never had it so good with
trips include the exciting zipline, swim- the opening of this chic new pool-blessed
ming and kayaking combo to Hang Toi hostel just a few steps from the beach.
(Dark Cave) and the subterranean wonders (p269)
of Hang Va. (p162)
Con Dao Cafe Scene
Villa Vista New places including Bar200 Con Dao
This intimate hilltop mansion with am- (p285) and Infinity Cafe & Lounge (p285)
phitheatrical views of Dalat has lashings have injected life and a little cosmopolitan
of 19th-century French opulence. It’s un- elan to sleepy old Con Son town.
doubtedly the southwest highlands’ most
atmospheric stay. (p294) Aqua Expeditions
This sleek, waterborne five-star hotel,
Craft Beer in Ho Chi Minh City complete with deckside pool and gourmet
Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p347) in- meals, traverses the Mekong Delta’s water-
fuses local ingredients like lemongrass and ways in style. (p376)
Dalat coffee; travelling hopheads will find
more local brews at BiaCraft (p351) in Sai- Amanoi
gon’s emerging District 2 neighbourhood. Built into the cliffs on a gorgeous stretch
of coastline, this uber-luxurious resort
Vespa Adventures has drop-dead gorgeous pavilions and a
There’s no better way to explore the rural tip-top spa, and offers real tranquility and
lanes, craft villages and riverside scenery relaxation. (p265)
around Hoi An than on the back of a
vintage scooter. This new outfit has great SUP, Cat Ba Island
tours. (p212) Stand-up paddleboarding has hit Cat Ba Is-
land with all-new SUP tours of Lan Ha Bay
Dien Bien Phu Museum being pioneered by Asia Outdoors. (p116)
The important collection commemorating
the seminal 1954 battle has found a new For more recommendations and
home in this upgraded, modern museum reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/
building, designed to showcase the exhib- vietnam
its at their best. (p133)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23

If You Like…

Fine Dining Hang Da Check out the base- My Son The most impressive
ment of this lesser-known Hanoi Cham site; the hilltop location is
Hoi An Try unique regional market for recycled threads. very special too. (p224)
specialities, then take a cooking (p89) Hanoi Come face-to-face with
course. (p215) Dong Ba Market Cross the history in Ho Chi Minh’s austere
Ho Chi Minh City Gourmet Perfume River in Hue to the mausoleum. (p64)
restaurants, to-die-for Vietnam- compelling sensory overload of Cao Dai Great Temple A
ese eateries and international this market. (p186) magnificent hybrid of Chinese
cuisine. (p340) temple, mosque and cathedral
Hue Famous for its complex im- Remote & Hidden near HCMC. (p363)
perial cuisine tradition. (p184) Cholon Discover the Chinese
Pots ‘n Pans Innovative Viet- Ha Giang Crammed with jaw- heritage of HCMC amid gilded
fusion cuisine in a chic Hanoi dropping scenery, this rugged and incense-infused temples.
setting. (p83) area abuts China. (p148) (p324)
Ganh Hao Dine by the water’s Tam Hai Island Idyllic isle that Vo Thi Sau Evocative Con Son
edge at this outstanding Vung features a whale graveyard, resting place of a national
Tau seafood restaurant. (p277) Cham ruins and no crowds. heroine. (p281)
Hill Station Signature (p235)
Restaurant The traditional Pirate Island Descendants of Beautiful Beaches
flavours of the Hmong. (p141) pirates take you night-fishing for
Bassac Restaurant Interna- squid. (p403) Phu Quoc Island Picture-
tional classics meet delicate HCMC Tours Sample food from perfect white crescents and
Vietnamese dishes. (p408) the backstreets and dig out the sandy bays sheltered by rocky
city’s hidden pockets. (p333) headlands. (p389)
Markets Ganh Da Dia Coastline boasting Con Dao Islands We suggest
empty beaches, lonely fishing a self-imposed exile of at least
Bac Ha Head north to one of villages and impressive sand three nights. (p279)
the most colourful markets in dunes. (p241) Mui Ne Squeaky sands along
Southeast Asia. (p145) Phu Dien This small Cham tem- the shore, towering sand dunes
Mekong Delta’s Floating ple was buried in sand dunes for nearby and empty beaches up
Markets Catch the delta water­ centuries. (p191) the coast. (p265)
world’s river markets, selling An Bang Ride a bicycle from Hoi
everything from durian to dog Tombs & Temples An to An Bang’s combo of sun,
meat. (p383) sand and seafood. (p220)
Ben Thanh Market HCMC’s Hue Vietnamese emperors Nha Trang Flop on the inviting
central market is a hive of constructed dazzling monu- sands, then explore the bay’s
activity. (p352) ments around this city. Don’t islands by boat. (p247)
miss Tu Duc (p187) and Minh
Mang (p188).

PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y o u L ik e …24 BRUNO DE HOGUES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Road Trips

Mai Pi Leng Pass Negotiate this
mountainous route from Dong
Van to Meo Vac, cut through a
narrow pass. (p151)
Highway 6 Rural vistas of paddy-
field patchworks and rolling hills
between Mai Chau and Son La.
(p129)
Hue to Hoi An Travel by motor­
cycle taking in the Hai Van Pass
and China Beach. (p193)
Ho Chi Minh Highway Light on
traffic, big on scenery and ideal
for cyclists. (p304)

Spectacular Treks SANTIAGO URQUIJO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National
Park Hike through pristine moun-
tain and valley trails, or to the
world’s largest cave. (p162)
Sapa Join Hmong guides to ex-
plore the ethnic minority villages
around Sapa. (p136)
Yok Don National Park Trek and
camp in the hope of spotting wild
elephants. (p303)
Cuc Phuong National Park Hike
through wildlife-rich forests and
up to tribal villages. (p160)

Quirky Tipples Top: Citadel (p175), Hue
Bottom: Flower Hmong women, Bac Ha Market (p145)
Highland homebrew Head to
Sapa (p136) or Bac Ha (p145)
markets to knock back hill-tribe
rice and corn wines.

Pasteur Street Brewing
Company Lemongrass and Phu
Quoc peppercorns are both used
in the excellent Saigon Saison
beer. (p347)
K’Ho Coffee Locally roasted
coffee grown by K’Ho minority
farmers at an 1860s coffee farm.
(p292)
Quan Ly Sample traditional ruou
(rice wine) liquor in this atmos-
pheric watering hole. (p86)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS conditions. Conversely, Ma Thuot plays host to
Tet, January–February sunny hot days are the norm an annual coffee festival.
Hue Festival, April in the southern provinces. Growers, grinders, blenders
(Biennial) and addicts rub shoulders
Wandering Souls Day, z Tet (Tet in the city’s main park,
August and local entertainment is
Danang Fireworks Nguyen Dan) provided.
Festival, April The Big One! Falling in late
Buddha’s Birth, January or early February, 3 Saigon
Enlightenment and Vietnamese Lunar New
Death, May Year is like Christmas, Cyclo Challenge
New Year and birthdays On your marks…get pedal-
January all rolled into one. Travel ling. Ho Chi Minh City’s
is difficult at this time, as fastest rickshaw drivers
Winter temperatures can transport is booked up and battle it out in their three-
be bitterly cold in the far many businesses close. wheeled chariots to raise
north, with snow possible. funds for charity. Takes
The further south you go, z Quang Trung place in mid-March every
the milder the weather. Tet year.
celebrations occur at the Wrestling competitions,
end of the month (or in lion dances and human April
February). chess take place in Hanoi
on the fifth day of the first Generally an excellent time
z Dalat lunar month at Dong Da to cover the nation, as
Mound, site of the uprising the winter monsoon rains
Flower Festival against the Chinese led should have subsided and
Held early in the month, by Emperor Quang Trung there are some excellent
this is always a wonderful (Nguyen Hué) in 1788. festivals. Flights are usually
occasion, with huge elabo- moderately priced (unless
rate displays. It’s become March Easter falls in this month).
an international event, with
music and fashion shows Grey skies and cool z Holiday of the
and a wine festival. temperatures can affect
anywhere north of Hoi An, Dead (Thanh Minh)
February but towards the end of the It’s time to honour the
month the thermometer ancestors with a visit to
North of Danang, chilly starts to rise. Down south, graves of deceased rela-
‘Chinese winds’ usually the dry season is ending. tives to tidy up and sweep
mean grey, overcast tombstones. Offerings of
z Buon Ma Thuot flowers, food and paper are
presented. It’s held on the
Coffee Festival first three days of the third
Caffeine cravers should moon.
make for the highlands
during March, as Buon

26 PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month AOSHIVN/GETTY IMAGES ©

z Hue Festival

(Biennial)
Vietnam’s biggest cultural
event (www.huefestival.
com) is held every two
years, with events in 2016
and 2018. Most of the art,
theatre, music, circus and
dance performances are
held inside Hue’s Citadel.

z Danang

Fireworks Festival
Danang’s riverside explodes
with sound, light and col-
our during this spectacular
event, which features com-
peting pyrotechnic teams
from the USA, China, Eu-
rope and Vietnam. Held in
the last week of the month.

May PHAM LE HUONG SON/GETTY IMAGES ©

A fine time to tour the Top: Danang Fireworks Festival
centre and north, with Bottom: Dragon parade at Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan)
a good chance of clear
skies and warm days. Sea
temperatures are warming
up nicely and it’s a pretty
quiet month for tourism.

z Buddha’s Birth,

Enlightenment and
Death (Phong Sinh)
A big celebration at Bud-
dhist temples with street
processions, and lanterns
used to decorate pagodas.
Complexes including Chua
Bai Dinh (p158) near Ninh
Binh and HCMC’s Jade
Emperor Pagoda (p318)
host lavish celebrations.
Fifteenth day of the fourth
lunar month.

z Nha Trang

Sea Festival
Falls at the end of May (and
the beginning of June) and
includes a street festival,
photography exhibitions,
embroidery displays and
kite-flying competitions.

z Cham 27

June corn and dragon dance pro- New Year (Kate) PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
cessions are enacted, and This is celebrated at Po
A great time to tour children are fully involved Klong Garai Cham Tow-
Vietnam as it’s just before in the celebrations. ers in Thap Cham on the
the peak domestic season. seventh month of the Cham
Humidity can be punishing September calendar. The festival
at this time of year, so plan commemorates ancestors,
to spend some time by the Excellent time to tour the Cham national heroes and
coast. whole nation. The coastal deities, such as the farm-
resorts are less crowded ers’ goddess Po Ino Nagar.
z Summer Solstice and there are fewer people (p263)
on the move. Temperatures
Day (Tet Doan Ngo) and humidity levels drop. z Khmer Oc
Keep epidemics at bay
with offerings to the spir- z Vietnam National Bom Boc Festival
its, ghosts and the God The Mekong Delta’s Khmer
of Death on the fifth day Day (Sep 2) community celebrates on
of the fifth moon. Sticky Big parades and events are the 15th day of the 10th
rice wine (ruou nep) is held across Vietnam on moon of the lunar calendar
consumed in industrial September 2. Celebrated (late October or November)
quantities. with a rally and fireworks with colourful boat races at
at Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi Ba Dong Beach in Tra Vinh
August (in front of Ho Chi Minh’s province and on the Soc
Mausoleum) and there are Trang River.
The peak month for also boat races on Hoan
tourism with domestic and Kiem Lake. December
international tourists. Book
flights and accommodation October The month begins quietly,
well ahead. Weather-wise but from mid-December
it’s hot, hot, hot. A good time to visit the the popular tourist resorts
far north, with a strong get increasingly busy. Book
z Wandering Souls chance of clear skies and well ahead to secure a
mild temperatures. Winter room over the Christmas
Day (Trung Nguyen) winds and rain begin to break. Steamy in the south,
Second in the pecking affect the centre, but down but can get chilly up north.
order to Tet is this ancient south it’s often dry.
Vietnamese tradition. Huge z Christmas Day
spreads of food are left out z Mid-Autumn
for lost spirits who, it’s be- (Giang Sinh)
lieved, wander the earth on Festival (Trung Thu) Not a national holiday, but
this day. Held on the 15th A fine time for foodies, is celebrated throughout
day of the seventh moon. with moon cakes of sticky Vietnam, particularly by
rice filled with lotus seeds, the sizeable Catholic popu-
z Children’s (or watermelon seeds, peanuts, lation. It’s a special time to
the yolks of duck eggs, be in places such as Phat
Mid-Autumn) Festival, raisins and other treats. It’s Diem and HCMC, where
Hoi An celebrated across the na- thousands attend midnight
This is a big event in Hoi tion on the 15th day of the Mass.
An and Hanoi, when eighth moon and can fall in
citizens celebrate the full September or October.
moon, eat mooncakes and
beat drums. The lion, uni-

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

Itineraries

MYANMAR HANOI CHINA
(BURMA) _# #• Halong Bay

É

LAOS

THAILAND É #÷ Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP SCOHUI NT HA
É SEA
•#Hue
•# Hoi An
#• My Son

CAMBODIA #ÙDoc Let Beach

•# Nha Trang

Cu Chi •# É

Tunnels •# Ho Chi Minh City
(Saigon)

2WEEKS From South to North

Making the most of Vietnam’s to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi
spectacular coastline, this route hugs Tunnels.
the shore and is bookended by the
country’s two greatest cities. You’ll have Then it’s a plane, train or bus trip up the
ample opportunity to indulge in some coast to the big brash resort of Nha Trang
serious beach time, and be able to hit for a couple of days by the sea. Party people
the cultural sights. Consider taking an will love the city’s hedonistic bar scene,
internal flight or two to save time. while spa lovers can indulge in a gooey,
blissful session in one of the area’s three
The adventure begins in the cauldron mud bath resorts. Nha Trang’s beach is a
of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City fine one, but for a less-developed base head
(HCMC). Spend two days hitting the mar- up to the largely-undeveloped coastline
kets, browsing museums and eating some to the north, where you’ll find Doc Let
of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a daytrip Beach, or south to the near-infinite sands
of Bai Dai beach.

29

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries

Halong Bay (p107)

Cultured charmer and culinary mecca caving region, with towering limestone
Hoi An is the next essential stop. This mountains and cobalt jungle rivers.
town certainly warrants three days, such
is its allure. Spend a couple of days enjoy- Next it’s a long journey by road or
ing Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring the train towards Halong Bay, with more
town’s temples, pagodas and museums, than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting
and feasting on delectable Central Viet- the ocean. Budget for at least a couple
namese cuisine. Consider a motorbike trip of days in Hanoi to sample its evocative
around the town’s rural hinterland, or an Old Quarter and to view the city’s elegant
excursion to the terrific Cham ruins of My architecture and memorable museums.
Son. Then it’s on to the old imperial capi- Make the most of your last day, perhaps
tal of Hue for a night to explore its citadel, munching street food and sampling bia
tombs and pagodas. From here head up hoi (draught beer).
to the truly remarkable Phong Nha-Ke
Bang National Park, the world’s greatest

30

ÉCHINADong Van #••# Meo VacCHINA
ÉÉ #•Cao Bang
É
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
Bac Ha É
É •#
ÉSapa
É#•É

É É ÷#
É
Ba Be
ÉNational Park

VIETNAM

•# Dien Bien Phu Son La
#•

#_ HANOI

LAOS #•
Mai Chau

31

WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES © 3WEEKS Northern Mountains

Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
land of brooding mountains, overwhelming
LYNN GAIL/GETTY IMAGES © beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities.
It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with
light traffic and breathtaking views, though,
with a patient attitude, most of the region
can be tackled by public transport.

Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau,
home to the White Thai people, for your first
two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic
minority life. Northwest, where the road begins
to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical over-
night stop is Son La.

Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien
Phu, a name that resonates with history as it
was here that the French colonial story ended
in defeat. Tour the military sights and impres-
sive new museum then continue north through
stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass.

Sapa is the premier destination in the north-
west, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear
day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples.
Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for
around four days before heading to Bac Ha
for three nights to experience the best of the
region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower
Hmong people.

From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang prov-
ince, taking it slowly through stunning scenery
and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and
Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations like the
Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from
Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertiginous
Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there’s no pub-
lic transport (so you’ll need to hire a xe om (mo-
torbike taxi) or car). The route then loops down
to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac.

Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang
and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about
three nights around Ba Be, staying at local
Tay ethnic minority homestays, and exploring
the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be
travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south
to Hanoi.

Top: Dien Bien Phu (p131)
Bottom: Flower Hmong women at Bac Ha Market (p145)

32 HAIMINHDUONG/GETTY IMAGES ©

2WEEKS Deep South PHAMSONPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore
island, the nation’s main watersport centre
and a waterworld of floating villages. If
tropical sunsets and white-sand beaches are
high on your agenda it’s probably best not
to plan this trip during the southern rainy
season. There’s frequent public transport to
virtually all the main centres.

After a couple of days enjoying the urban de-
lights and compelling energy of HCMC, head
into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to
explore canal-side lanes by bike and islands by
boat. Then hop on board a cargo ship for a slow,
scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the
town’s colourful pagodas. Next it’s a short trip
to Can Tho where it’s worth lingering a couple
of days to visit the bustling floating markets,
the city museum and a temple or two. Further
north, by the Cambodian border, Chau Doc is
surrounded by beautiful countryside, begging
for two-wheeled trips. Head to Phu Quoc
Island for three days of well-earned beachtime
on some of Vietnam’s best sandy shores.

From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC,
then head north into the Southcentral High-
lands via a night in Cat Tien National Park,
home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful bird-
life. Next up it’s the romantic hill station of
Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the
opportunity to get stuck into some adventure
sports like canyoning, mountain biking or
kayaking.

The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is
one of the nation’s finest, negotiating highland
ridges and plunging through valleys and pine
forests; it’s ideally done on the back of a motor-
bike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can
then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or
three days, a tropical idyll with towering sand
dunes and a laid-back vibe – or for those with
the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kitesurf-
ing or a sailing course.

Round the trip off in style with a night in
HCMC, perhaps with an ale or two at the Paster
Street Brewing Company and dining out some-
where really special like the Racha Room.

Top: Dinh Cau Beach, Phu Quoc Island (p389)
Bottom: Temple in Tra Vinh (p373)

33

#• Dalat

Cat Tien ÷#
National Park
CAMBODIA É

É É
É
É É Mui Ne#•
#• Chau Doc–# Ben Tre#•
•# É
Ho Chi
ÉÉ Minh City
É (Saigon)

#•
Phu Quoc

•# •#
Can Tho Tra Vinh

SCOHSUEI NAT HA

34PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B EATEN TRA C K
Mekong
Off the Beaten Track: Vietnam 0 200 km
0 120 miles

CHINA

DONG VAN DONG VAN

Lao Ha Giang Nanning Use this sleepy Ha Giang town as a
Cai hub for trekking, visiting local
SINHO Sapa markets and exploring remote
attractions such as Lung Cu and the
MYANMAR Yen Bai Lang Vuong Palace. (p150)
(BURMA) Son

Tay Trang Mong Cai

Son La HANOI Halong Bai Tu Zhanjiang
City Long Bay
BAI HUONG
LAOS HOA BINH Hai Halong
Duong Bay Take part in a homestay in this
beautifully situated fishing village in
SINHO Na Meo the Cham Islands, just a short boat
ride from the tourist mecca of Hoi An.
Travel by motorbike to the remote Thanh Hoa (p223)

mountain village of Sinho, or unravel Nam Can

the intricacies of public transport in Hainan
Island
northwestern Vietnam. (p135) Gulf of (China)
Vinh Tonkin
TAM HAI ISLAND
Cau Ha Tinh
Treo Enjoy the serenity in tiny Tam Hai,
HANG EN CAVE home to fine beaches, Cham ruins
and a whale cemetery (p235)
Visit this spectacular cave deep inside River Cha Lo
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park on Tha Khaek Dong Hoi
a park-ranger-led hiking and camping HANG EN
trip. (p163) CAVE

Khe Sanh Dong Ha Paracel
Islands

Hue PHU THUAN

Hue PHU THUAN
Danang BAI HUONG
PHU THUAN Savannakhet Cham
Pakse Hoi An Islands
Enjoy the magnificent oceanic THAILAND
coastline and lack of development at GANH DA DIA
Phu Thuan, which has two great TAM HAI
places to stay. (p191) ISLAND Marvel at Ganh Da Dia's fascinating
volcanic rock formations, located on a
stunning slice of coastline with good
beaches and swimming. (p241)

CAMBODIA 35PleikuSOUTH
CHINA
BANGKOK Siem Reap Central HighlandsQuy Nhon
SEA
Mekong River GANH DA DIA
Battambang Tonlé
Sap Tuy Hoa

Buon Ma JUNGLE BEACH
Thuot

Gulf of Nha Trang JUNGLE BEACH
Thailand
PHNOM Dalat Unwind at this slice of bohemian
XEO QUYT FOREST PENH paradise – bungalows on the beach of
Hop on a boat through silent swamps Phan Rang & your dreams – just an hour or so
and enjoy an almost primordial calm Thap Cham north of Nha Trang. (p246)
among the trees, one of the last Tay Ninh
natural forests of the region. (p415) Vinh Xuong
Takeo HO CHI MINH CITY Phan
(SAIGON) Thiet
XEO QUYT
Tinh FOREST KE GA LIGHTHOUSE
Bien
Duong Vung
Dong Ben Tre Tau

Phu Quoc Rach Tra Vinh KE GA LIGHTHOUSE
Island Gia

Mekong Con Dao Charter a fishing boat for the ride out
Delta Islands to this imposing, 40m-high island
lighthouse, which dates from the
Ca Mau French era. (p273)

PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kayaking, Halong Bay (p107)

Plan Your Trip

Vietnam
Outdoors

Vietnam has great outdoor appeal. Watersports include superb
kayaking, kitesurfing, good diving and snorkelling, sailing and surf-
ing. Inland there’s trekking, cycling and motorbiking, and you’ll
find some outstanding adventure sports operators to get you to
that trail or out in the ocean.

37

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oorsBest OutdoorsAvoid
It would be foolish to attempt an ascent of
MIHTIANDER/GETTY IMAGES ©Best Trekking Fansipan in the height of the rainy season,
from May to September. Snorkelling and
Sapa Superlative views but can be crowded. diving is not that rewarding between No-
Dong Van Trails through dramatic mountain vember and April when visibility drops.
scenery.
Bac Ha Spectacular highland hiking incorpo- Trekking
rating village homestays.
Mai Chau Sublime landscapes and tribal Vietnam offers excellent trekking and
villages. less strenuous walks. The scenery is often
remarkable – think plunging highland
Best Diving & Snorkelling valleys, tiers of rice paddies and soaring
limestone mountains. Anything is possible,
Con Dao Islands Remote, but the best. from half-day hikes to assaults on Fansi-
Phu Quoc Visibility can be a challenge, but pan, Vietnam’s highest mountain.
some nice coral gardens.
Nha Trang Professional scuba schools and Generally, northern Vietnam is your
many dive sites. best bet: its dramatic mountain paths and
fascinating minority culture are a huge
Best Cycling draw. Elsewhere, national parks and na-
ture reserves have established trails (and
Dalat Base camp for the dramatic two-day usually guides available to keep you on
descent to Mui Ne. them).
Hoi An Flat terrain to explore craft villages
and cut across rice paddies. Northern Vietnam
Mekong Delta Back roads beside waterways
under the shade of coconut palms. The region north of Hanoi is truly spec-
tacular. Sapa (p136) is Vietnam’s trekking
Planning hub, full of hiking operators and hire
stores (renting out sleeping bags, boots
When to Go and waterproof gear). Maps detailing trails
are available, as are guides. The scenery
Whether you’re a committed kitesurfer or is spectacular, with majestic mountains,
a warm-water diver, some careful planning impossibly green rice paddies and some
is essential – Vietnam’s climate is extreme- fascinating tribal villages. But prepare your-
ly variable and monsoon-dependent. self – the main trails are incredibly popular
Best and some villages see hiking groups on an
Surfers should be aware that the wave ac- hourly basis. To trek remote paths you’ll
tion peaks in winter (November to April). have to find an expert local guide.
Kitesurfing also excels at this time of year.
Divers take note that water visibility is At a lower elevation is Bac Ha (p145),
best in the calm months of June, July and less rainy and the trails are not heavily
August. trampled. It’s very picturesque, but it lacks

SAFETY FOR HIKERS
¨¨Don’t stray from established
paths – Vietnam is full of unex-
ploded ordnance.
¨¨Guides are usually worth hiring;
they’re inexpensive, speak the lan-
guage and understand indigenous
culture.
¨¨Boots with ankle support are a
great investment.

38 NAIHEI/GETTY IMAGES ©
Sapa’s jaw-dropping mountain scenery.
However, you will find great hikes to Flow-PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors
er Hmong and Nung villages.
High altitude Ha Giang province (p148),
in the extreme north of Vietnam, is the
nation’s Tibet. Hikers can hook up with
guides in Ha Giang city, or head out to
Dong Van where there are exciting trek-
king opportunities.
The Moc Chau plateau (p130) is famous
for its limestone karsts, plum orchards,
tea plantations and dairy products. It’s an
emerging region, and hiking routes are
steadily being developed here. Nearby Mai
Chau is more established, offering great
walking in an idyllic valley setting.
Elsewhere, Ba Be National Park (p102)
has a network of rugged trails through
spectacular karst scenery to minority vil-
lages and Cat Ba (p112) boasts a popular
18km-hike (and shorter alternatives like
Butterfly Valley).

Central Vietnam Rice terraces, Northern Vietnam

Some outstanding treks and numerous Further south there’s little for hikers to
new trails are being developed between get excited about – the climate is peren-
the limestone hills of Phong Nha-Ke Bang nially hot and humid and the landscape
National Park (p162) by outfits like Jungle largely flat. Con Son (p281) is one curi-
Boss Trekking (p164). Many routes com- ous exception, an island with cooling sea
bine trekking with some caving, including, breezes and hikes through rainforest and
most famously, the hike to the world’s larg- mangroves.
est cave, Hang Son Doong.
Cycling
You’ll find excellent trails inside Cuc
Phuong National Park (p160) through Bikes are a popular mode of transport in
superb forest and past ancient trees and Vietnam, so cycling is an excellent way to
caves to a minority village. experience the country. Basic bicycles can
be rented for US$1 to US$3 per day, and
Close to Danang, Bach Ma National good-quality mountain bikes for US$6 to
Park (p190) has some good trails while the US$15.
Ba Na Hill Station (p193) has short trails
and awesome views. Adventure tours oper- The flat lands of the Mekong Delta
ators in Hoi An also offer some intriguing region are ideal for long-distance rides
treks in the tribal areas west of town. down back roads. Good routes include the
country lanes around Chau Doc, and the
Southern Vietnam quiet road that runs along the Cambodian
border from Chau Doc to Ha Tien (with a
With a bit of luck you might glimpse one possible detour to Ba Chuc). There’s also
of the dozens of mammals present in Yok some nice cycling on the islands off Vinh
Don National Park (p303) near Buon Ma Long.
Thuot. You’ll need to hire a guide to see
the best of Cat Tien National Park (p298), Avoid Hwy 1 as insane traffic makes it
where crocodiles can be seen and night tough going and dangerous. Consider the
hikes are possible; the Wild Gibbon Trek
here is highly popular. Over in Dalat, sev-
eral adventure tour operators offer hikes:
one rewarding area is the Bidoup Nui Ba
National Park (p292).

39

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors

OLGA KHOROSHUNOVA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Explore Vietnam by motorbike

inland Ho Chi Minh Highway (Hwys 14, 15 Unless you relish getting high on ex-
and 8), which offers some stunning scenery haust fumes and barged by trucks, avoid
and little traffic. Hoi An is an excellent too much time on Hwy 1. The inland Ho
base for exploring craft villages and rural Chi Minh Highway running the spine of
lanes. Hue is also a great place for cycling, the country from north to south is one
with temples, pagodas and the Perfume alternative, though of course you miss out
River. on the ocean. The stretch from Duc Tho to
Phong Nha offers wonderful karst scenery,
In the Southwest highlands, Dalat has forests, little traffic and an excellent paved
lots of dirt trails and is the base camp for road.
the dramatic two-day descent to Mui Ne.

Motorbiking ALT HIGHWAY 1

Motorbiking through Vietnam is an unfor- Hwy 1’s heavy traffic and trucks don’t
gettable way to experience the nation. It’s make for great motorbiking or bicy-
the mode of transport for most Vietnam- cling. It’s possible, with some careful
ese, and there are repair shops everywhere. planning, to loop off Hwy 1 at regular
Two wheels put you closer to the country- intervals and use coastal back roads:
side – its smells, people and scenery – com- ¨¨east of Hue between Thuan An
pared with getting around by car or bus. and Vin Hien
For those seeking true adventure, there is
no better way to go. ¨¨between Chi Thanh and the Hon
Gom peninsula
If you’re not confident riding a mo-
torbike, it’s comparatively cheap to hire ¨¨south of Nha Trang to the Cam
someone to drive one for you. Easy Riders Ranh airport
(p295) is one such scheme.
¨¨between Phan Thiet and Vung Tau

40

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors Two of the most dramatic rides in the In season, head to Bai Dai beach, 27km
southern half of the country are the Hai south of Nha Trang, where’s there’s a good
Van Pass, featuring hairpin after hairpin left-hand break.
and oceanic views, and the spectacular road
between Nha Trang and Dalat which cuts Beginners can head to Mui Ne, with
through forests and takes in a 1700m pass. multiple breaks around the bay, includ-
ing short right- and left-handers. Further
Further north, there’s glorious mountain south, Vung Tau is inconsistent, but offers
scenery, river valleys and tribal villages some of Vietnam’s best waves when condi-
around Sapa and Dien Bien Phu. The route tions are right.
through Ha Giang province through Ha
Giang, Dong Van and Bao Lac is the ulti- Anyone searching for fresh waves in
mate, with superlative vistas and stupen- remote locations should be extremely wary
dous mountain roads. of unexploded ordnance. Garbage, storm-
water run-off and industrial pollution are
other hazards.

Surfing Kitesurfing,
Windsurfing & Sailing
There’s surf most times of year in Vietnam,
though it isn’t an acclaimed destination – Windsurfing and kitesurfing are taking
the wave scene in Apocalypse Now was off. Mui Ne Beach is fast becoming a wind-
shot in the Philippines. Dedicated surf chasers’ hotspot in Asia with competitions
shops are rare; though the odd guesthouse and a real buzz about the place. Nha Trang
and adventure sport tour operator have and Vung Tau are other possibilities.
boards for hire.
Two-hour beginner lessons start at
Surf’s up between November and April US$100; it’s tough to get your head around
when the winter monsoon blows from the all the basics (and also tough on your body!).
north. Several typhoons form in the South
China Sea each year, and these produce the The best conditions in Mui Ne are be-
biggest wind swells. tween November to April. Mornings are
ideal for beginners, while in the afternoon
The original GI Joe break, China Beach wind speeds regularly reach 35 knots.
is a 30km stretch of sand, which can pro-
duce clean peaks of over 2m, though watch Also based in Mui Ne, Manta Sail Train-
out for pollution after heavy rains. ing Centre (p268) is a professional new
sailing outfit offering training and boat
rentals.

BEST BEACHES

Drawing up a list of Vietnam’s best beaches is a near-impossible task (there are a
dozen idyllic coves in Phu Quoc alone) but here are our picks:
Sao Beach, Phu Quoc (p391)
Bai Dat Doc, Con Dao Islands (p283)
Long Beach, Phu Quoc (p391)
Doc Let Beach (p245)
Bai Mon, Vung Ro Bay (p246)
An Bang Beach, Hoi An (p220)
Thuan An Beach, Hue (p191)
Mui Ne (p265)
Minh Chau Beach, Quan Lan Island (p121)
Bai Dai (p262)
Nha Trang Beach (p247)
My Khe, Danang (p202)

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors41

Top: Caving, PhongCHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©
Nha-Ke Bang National

Park (p162)
Bottom: Windsurfing,

Mui Ne (p265)

CARSTEN PETER/GETTY IMAGES ©

42

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors Diving & Snorkelling Whitewater Rafting

Vietnam is not a world-class dive mecca Rafting is in its infancy in Vietnam. Sev-
but it does have some fascinating dive eral outfits in Dalat offer trips around the
sites. If you’ve experienced reefs in Indo- town, including Phat Tire Ventures (p293),
nesia or Australia, prepare yourself for less which runs a day trip down the Lang-
sea life and reduced visibility. The most bian River with Class II, III or IV rapids,
popular scuba-diving and snorkelling is depending on the season; prices start at
around Nha Trang (p247), where there are US$67. Companies based in Nha Trang
several reputable dive operators. Hoi An’s also offer trips.
dive schools head to the Cham Islands
(p223), where macro life can be intriguing. Caving
Phu Quoc Island (p389) is another popular
spot. There are stupendous cave trips at Phong
Nha-Ke Bang National Park (p162), many
Two fun dives cost around US$70 to of which involve some hiking, swimming
US$80; expect to pay US$25 to US$40 for (there are a lot of river caves) and a short
snorkelling daytrips. PADI Open Water climb or two.
courses cost between US$325 and US$500.
Specialist Oxalis (p164) is the only oper-
The Con Dao Islands offer unquestion- ator licensed to take you to the wonders of
ably the best diving and snorkelling in Hang Son Doong, the world’s largest cave.
Vietnam, with bountiful marine life, fine But if your budget won’t stretch to this,
reefs and even a wreck dive. However, other excellent options include Hang Toi
prices are higher (around US$160 for two (Dark Cave) and Hang Va (both recently
fun dives). opened up to visitors). You can trek 7km
inside Paradise Cave and do a remarkable
Note that Vietnam is home to several two-day hike to Hang En Cave and Ban
dodgy dive shops, some of which have fake Doong village, and there’s the lovely swim-
PADI credentials. Nha Trang in particu- through Tu Lan cave system.
lar has an excess of such places. Stick to
reputable, recommended dive schools with
good safety procedures, qualified instruc-
tors and well-maintained equipment.

Kayaking & SUP Rock Climbing

Kayaking has exploded in popularity The pioneers and acknowledged rock
around Halong Bay. Many tours now climbing specialists are Asia Outdoors
include a spot of kayaking or stand up (p116), a highly professional outfit based
paddle-boarding through the karst islands, in Cat Ba Town that has instruction for
or you can choose a specialist and paddle beginners and dedicated trips for rock
around majestic limestone pinnacles be- stars. In Dalat there are a couple of good
fore overnighting on a remote bay. adventure tour operators offering climbing
and canyoning. And in Hoi An, Phat Tire
Other key destinations include Cat Ba Ventures (p212) offers climbing and rappel-
Island, the Con Dao Islands, Phong Nha, ling on a marble cliff.
Dalat and rivers in the Hoi An region.
You can also rent sea kayaks and SUPs on
beaches including Nha Trang.

Operators include Asia Outdoors (p116),
Cat Ba Ventures (p116), Hoi An Kayak
Center (p212) and SUP Monkey (p212).

MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Pho bo (beef noodle soup)

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink
Like a Local

Showcasing fresh and vibrant flavours, excellent street food and
elegant restaurants in restored colonial architecture, Vietnam
is packed with superb opportunities for eating and drinking.
Cookery classes, market visits and walking tours make it easy to
discover the country’s culinary heritage.

44 PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal Vy’s Market (p215) The country’s diverse dishes
are served around lively open kitchens in Hoi An.
A Day in Hanoi Quan An Ngon (p81) Bustling Hanoi showcases
of Vietnamese food in colonial buildings in the
Surrounded by eating and drinking op- nation’s capital.
portunities, this is how a resident of the
Vietnamese capital might fill a tasty day. Street-Food Tours

Early Morning Pull up a squat plastic stool and enjoy dis-
covering what makes Vietnam’s street food
A local breakfast speciality is bun rieu cua, exceptional.
noodle soup made with a hearty broth using Saigon Street Eats (p334), Ho Chi Minh City
tiny crabs from rice paddies. Eat Hoi An (p212), Hoi An
Danang Unplugged (p196), Danang
Mid-Morning Hue Flavor (p182), Hue
Hanoi Street Food Tours (p72), Hanoi
Simple cafes and coffee stalls dot Hanoi, Dalat Happy Tours (p293), Dalat
and catching up with friends over deliciously
strong caphe is virtually mandatory. During Best Fusion Restaurants
summer, tra chanh (iced lemon tea) is
popular. Discover the culinary intersection between
Western flavours and Vietnamese cuisine
Lunch at these elegant restaurants.
La Badiane (p82) French flavours blend with
Bun cha (grilled pork with crab spring rolls, Vietnamese in this leafy colonial villa in Hanoi.
fresh herbs and vermicelli) is the classic Xu (p342) Stylish HCMC restaurant-lounge with
Hanoi midday meal. an inventive Vietnamese-inspired fusion menu.
Nu Eatery (p216) Down a Hoi An laneway and
Mid-Afternoon delivering Vietnamese and global flavours with a
modern accent.
Popular on-the-go snacking options include Spice House at Cassia Cottage (p396) Subtle
banh ghoi, deep-fried pastries with pork and flavours served beachside with sunset views on
mushrooms. Phu Quoc Island.

Evening

Hanoi’s footpaths come alive with simple
bia hoi (fresh draught beer) stalls; popular
drinking snacks include roast duck and dried
squid.

Food & Drink Vegetarian & Vegan Food
Experiences
Com Chay (vegetarian) restaurants serv-
Plan your travel around these tasty recom- ing vegan food can be found across Viet-
mendations and understand the essence of nam, often adjacent to Buddhist temples.
Vietnamese cuisine. Around the first and 15th days of the
Buddhist calendar month, some food stalls
Introducing substitute tofu in their dishes.
Vietnamese Food Chay Nang Tam (p82) Tasty variations on tofu
and tempeh; Hanoi.
Welcome to your first night in Vietnam. Hum Vegetarian Cafe & Restaurant (p345)
Here’s where to go to get up to speed with Excellent salads in an elegant HCMC space.
the country’s cuisine. Com Chay Vi Dieu (p271) Around five different
Secret Garden (p340) Vietnamese classics daily dishes feature at this simple roadside spot
served amid a rooftop garden in Ho Chi Minh City. in Mui Ne.
Lien Hoa (p184) Featuring flavour-packed dishes
with aubergine and jackfruit; Hue.

45

Viet Chay Sala (p235) Excellent selection of PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal
tempting dips and sauces in Quang Ngai.
MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©
Minority Flavours

Curious travellers should seek out the food
of Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups. Look
forward to occasionally challenging, but
always interesting dishes.
Chim Sao (p82) Try the ethnic minority sausages,
served with a mint and coriander dipping sauce;
Hanoi.

Quan Kien (p83) Dishes inspired by Hmong, Thai
and Muong cuisine, also in Hanoi.

Hill Station Signature Restaurant (p141)
Modern decor combines with dishes influenced by
traditional Hmong cuisine in Sapa.

Pleiku (p305) Popular local street foods include
pho kho (two-dish noodle) and thit bo nuong ong
(beef cooked in bamboo pipe).

Vietnamese Coffee Street-food stalls, Hoi An (p215)

Try these places to get your caffeine fix. Regional Specialities
Café Duy Tri (p83) Dripping with heritage, and
virtually unchanged for more than 75 years; Hanoi. Travelling north to south is a Vietnamese
Cafe Pho Co (p83) Negotiate your way to a hid- journey that, geographically and gastro-
den balcony overlooking Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake. nomically, begins in China and ends in
Cafe Xua & Nay (p242) Ocean breezes and a Southeast Asia. Differences in history,
traditional wooden house built in 1832; Quy Nhon. culture and geography combine for many
K’Ho Coffee (p292) Sample coffee and buy techniques, ingredients and tastes, all
freshly roasted beans at this highland plantation linked by the Vietnamese love for vibrant
near Dalat. flavours, fresh herbs, noodles and seafood.

Cooking Courses Northern Vietnam

Cooking courses can range from a simple Northern Vietnamese food bears the im-
set-up in someone’s backyard to purpose- print of centuries of Chinese occupation.
built schools. Comforting noodle dishes, generally mild
Green Bamboo Cooking School (p211) An flavours and rustic elegance are all hall-
accomplished chef offers personalised cooking marks of the region’s cuisine. Soy is used
courses in Hoi An. as frequently as fish sauce, vinegar adds
Hanoi Cooking Centre (p72) Excellent cooking sourness rather than lime juice or tama-
classes in Hanoi that include a visit to the market rind, chillies give way to black pepper, and
and cooking classes for kids. long cooking times coax maximum flavour
GRAIN Cooking Classes (p332) HCMC classes from unpretentious ingredients.
coordinated by Australian-Vietnamese chef Luke Banh Cuon These rolls are made from rice-flour
Nguyen. batter that’s poured onto a piece of muslin cloth
stretched over a steamer; once firm, the noodle
sheet is scattered with chopped pork, mushrooms
and dried shrimp, then rolled up, sprinkled with

46 Sapa •# CHINA
LAOS
MYANMAR É#_ HANOI
(BURMA) É

PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal THAILAND É #Ù An Bang Beach SCOHSUEI NAT HA
É
•# Hoi An

É •# Ho Chi Minh City
(Saigon)
•# É
Phu Quoc Island

2WEEKS The Ultimate Vietnamese Food Tour

Start in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s energetic southern hub, and negotiate the city’s
street-food scene on two wheels with Vespa Adventures (p333) or XO Tours (p334). Dis-
cover local dishes like banh xeo (savoury Vietnamese crêpes) before exploring markets
and trying a cooking class with Cyclo Resto (p344). Adjourn to the Pasteur Street Brew-
ing Company (p347) for craft beers infused with local ingredients like lemongrass and
rambutan.

Consider a southern sojourn on Phu Quoc Island, taking in grilled seafood at the
Dinh Cao Night Market (p396), before heading north to Hoi An. Once one of Asia’s most
cosmopolitan ports with traders from around the world, Hoi An now hosts international
visitors at the town’s many cookery schools. Learn the secrets of local cuisine at the
Morning Glory Cooking School (p211) or Red Bridge Cooking School (p211), and uncover
street food secrets with the Eat Hoi An (p212) food tour.

Detour to nearby An Bang Beach for more seafood at Sea Shell (p222), and try Hoi
An’s signature dish cao lau (Japanese-style noodles with herbs, salad greens, bean
sprouts and roast pork) at Mermaid Restaurant (p215). Continue north to Hanoi, and
negotiate the bustling labyrinth of the Old Quarter with Hanoi Street Food Tours (p72).
Iconic Hanoi dishes to try include cha ca (grilled fish with turmeric and dill) at Cha Ca
Thang Long (p80), and pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin (p79).

Learn about northern Vietnamese cuisine at the Hanoi Cooking Centre (p72), try dish-
es inspired by Vietnam’s ethnic minorities at Quan Kien (p83) or Chim Sao (p82), and
then head north to Sapa, the heartland region of minority groups including the Hmong
and the Red Dzao. Experience Hmong-inspired dishes at Hill Station Signature Restau-
rant (p141), book in for its cooking class, and toast your new knowledge of Vietnamese
cuisine with a ruou (rice wine) tasting set.

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Bun bo Hue (spicy beef soup)

crispy shallots, and served alongside a tangle of and herbs are miniature versions of their
bean sprouts, slivered cucumber and chopped southern selves, while Hue’s imperial
fresh herbs, with a saucer of nuoc cham (dipping cuisine showcases dainty, delicate dishes.
sauce) for drizzling. One edible legacy of the royal court is eas-
Bun Cha This street favourite features barbecued ily found on the street: banh beo, delicate
sliced pork or pork patties served with thin rice steamed cakes made from rice flour. The
vermicelli, fresh herbs and green vegetables, and central Vietnamese like gutsy and spicy
a bowl of lightly sweetened nuoc mam (fish sauce) flavours, including briny shrimp sauce and
with floating slices of pickled vegetables. The spritely lemongrass.
Hanoi version combines sliced pork belly and pork Banh Khoai These hearty, dessert-plate-sized
patties formed from chopped pork shoulder. crepes are made with rice-flour batter and cooked
Pho Bo A northern culinary highlight is pho bo with oil in special long-handled pans. With a filling
(beef noodle soup). A good pho hinges on the of shrimp, pork, egg and bean sprouts, they are
broth, which is made from beef bones boiled for encased with fresh herbs in lettuce, and then
hours with shallot, ginger, fish sauce, black car- dunked in a sauce based on earthy fermented
damom, star anise and cassia. Hardcore northern soybeans.
pho lovers frown upon adding lime, basil, and bean Bun Bo Hue This punchy rice-noodle soup with
sprouts to their bowls. beef and pork exemplifies the central Vietnamese
proclivity for spicy food. Tinged yellow-orange
Central Vietnam by chillies and annatto, the broth is laden with
lemongrass notes and anchored by savoury
Positioned between culinary extremes, shrimp sauce (mam tom). Like most Vietnamese
the food of central Vietnam combines noodle soups, it’s accompanied by herbs and leafy
moderation and balance – except where it greens.
concerns the locals’ love of chilli. People Com Hen Rice is served with the flesh of tiny
cook from the land, transforming mod- clams, their cooking broth, and garnishes
est resources into fare fit for an emperor. including roasted rice crackers, crisp pork
Everything seems smaller; baguettes

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48 BHOFACK2/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Market stall in
Hoi An (p215)
Bottom: Pork banh mi
(filled baguettes)
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