Lonely Planet Vietnam

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Northern Vietnam

Includes  Why Go?

Ba Be National Park. . . 102 Vistas. This is Vietnam’s big-sky country; a place of rippling
Haiphong. . . . . . . . . . . 104 mountains, cascading rice terraces and the winnowed-out
Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . 107 karst topography for which the region is famed.
Bai Tu Long Bay. . . . . 120
Mong Cai & the Halong Bay’s seascape of limestone towers is the view
Chinese Border. . . . . . 122 everyone’s here to see, but the karst connection continues
Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . 127 inland, to Ba Be’s sprawling lakes and the knobbly topped
Mai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . 129 peaks of Ha Giang, until it segues into the evergreen hills of
Dien Bien Phu. . . . . . . . 131 the northwest highlands.
Muong Lay. . . . . . . . . . 134
Lai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Not to be outdone by the scenery, northern Vietnam’s
Sapa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 cultural kaleidoscope is just as diverse. In this heartland
Lao Cai. . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 of hill-tribe culture, villages snuggle between paddy-field
Bac Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 patchworks outside of Sapa and the scarlet headdresses of
Ha Giang Province. . . 148 the Dzao and the Black Hmong’s indigo fabrics add dizzying
colour to chaotic highland markets.

The twisting ribbon-roads winding north from Hanoi
reveal a rural world far removed from Vietnam’s horns-a-
honking big-city streets. If you’re up for some road-tripping,
this is the place to do it.

Best Places to Eat When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
32/800
¨¨Hill Station Signature Halong City
Restaurant (p141) 24/600
°C/°F Temp
¨¨Nam Giao (p106) 40/104 16/400

¨¨Thanh Lan Com Binh Dan 30/86
(p124)
20/68

Best Local 10/50 8/200
Markets
0/32 0
¨¨Dong Van Market (p150)
¨¨Bac Ha Market (p145) JF MAM J J A S OND
¨¨Na Giang Market (p126)
¨¨Sin Cheng Market (p146) May The month Late Aug–Sep Nov Blue skies,
¨¨Sinho Market (p135) before high Hike Sapa and Bac calm seas; the
season begins to Ha during harvest perfect time for
hit has sunny days season. Halong Bay.
aplenty yet few
crowds.

100 Yen
Minh

CHINA Quan Ba Tam
YUNNAN Pass Son

4C

Ha Giang
Province

Huong Ha Giang
Su Phi
Thac Bac Chay River Xin
Lai Chau Waterfall Man Pan
(Tam Duong) Bac Ha Hou

(BlaScokngRivDa Tram Hekou Bac Ngam Tan
Muong Ton Lao Cai 70 Quang
Te Pass 2
er) Pa Tan Sinho 4D
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NV i e tn a m H i ghl i ghts
LAI 12 Tam Duong Sapa
CHAU (Binh Lu) Fansipan Hoang Lien
(3143m) National Park
Chan Song Hong (Red River) TUYEN
Nua LAO YEN QUANG
BAI Tuyen
32 Ho CAI Quang
ng L
Muong Lay a Thac
DIEN (Lai Chau) Lake
BIEN ien

12 6 Mou n t a in s

Tuan Giao Song Da Yen Bai
279 (Black River)

Dien Bien Pa Khoang Lake Thuan Son La
Phu Chau 6

Sop Hun Tay Trang Yen PHU
Chau THO

SON Ba Vi
LA National

Park
Song Da
Reservoir

Moc Xa Linh
Chau Mai Chau

LAOS Xam Vieng Pu Luong
Nua Xai Nature
Nam Xoi
Reserve
Quan

Hoa

Na Meo Ba Thuoc

0 50 km Chu River THANH
0 30 miles HOA

Northern Vietnam Highlights

1 Kayaking within the karsts, 3 Gliding across the tranquil 4 Diving into northern
into lagoons and grottoes in lakes of Ba Be National Park Vietnam’s action-adventure
Halong Bay (p107). (p102), soaking up the serene centre, hiking, biking and
2 Trekking mountain trails scenery of shoreline village climbing your way around Cat
to the hill-tribe villages around huddles and soaring mountain Ba Island (p112).
Sapa (p136). peaks.

Dong Van 101

Mai Pi Leng
Pass
Meo Vac

Khau Vai Bao
Lac

CAO Hang Pac Tra Linh Ban Gioc
BANG Bo Waterfall

Na Giang Thang Trung CHINA
Hen Lake Khanh GUANGXI
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NV i e tn a m H i ghl i ghts
3 Quang Yen
Nang River Cao
GRaimver Cho Bang
Ra
Na Phac

Ba Be BAC 4A
National KAN Pingxiang
Bac Kan
Park

Phuong Dong Dang Friendship
Pass
2 Hoang 1B Lang Son
THAI Cave
NGUYEN LANG
SON 1

Thai Nguyen 4B Dongxing

Nui Coc
Reservoir Mong Cai
BAC
Tam Dao GIANG Tra Co
VINH Hill Station 16 136 River Tien Beach
PHUC Vinh Bac Yen
Viet Tri Yen Giang Luc Nam
Den Kiep Bac QUANG Vin Thuc
2 HANOI NINH Van Don Island Island
18 (Dao Cai Bau)
Red River Con Son
HANOI BAC Pagoda
NINH Hai Cam Pha Bai Cai Rong
Duong
Ba Vi Halong Tu
Mountain Ha Dong City Long
Bay Co To Island
(1287m) 6 HA 5 HAI Cat Ba
DUONG
TChaumyH1NNo2CBAHaahutoIOBicNoiQPAnnHahhuluaPonFKCnaVleorg2hniakPl1TPluhtaAeaiAaDgnrGgfeYgiBuoanamdhiKaeen1VRhNHeaAGsHnAeHaMoLrYvUaNoEeNnLiHYNnugeGuhnNngBaNDNtiunAairnhmeMhBTIH1N0ABTHhiInahXTi huHuaanyiphong Island Halong (Dao Co To)
HAIPHONG
Bay Quan Lan Island
(Dao Canh Cuoc)
Lan Ha
Bay

Gulf of
Tonkin

15 DINH

Tho Vinh Phat Diem
Xuan Loc

Thuong 1
Xuan

5 Exploring a lesser-seen 6 Resetting your travel 7 Twisting and turning your
slice of the north, trekking the batteries after the Hanoi way across scenic mountain
lush countryside speckled with hustle by meandering through passes on the north’s greatest
hill-tribe villages from Bac Ha green checkerboards of rice road trip in Ha Giang province
(p145). paddies in Mai Chau (p129). (p148).

102 N o rth e rn Vi e tna m GBNaeotrBtteihnNegaatTsihtoenVriaelt&PnaAarwmkay The region is home to 13 tribal villages,
most belonging to the Tay minority plus
NORTHEAST VIETNAM smaller numbers of Dzao and Hmong.

History The park entrance fee is payable at a
checkpoint on the road into the park, about
Dominated by the Red River basin and the 15km before the park headquarters, just be-
sea, the fertile northeast is the cradle of Viet- yond the town of Cho Ra.
namese civilisation. Until very recently, Viet-
nam has had challenging relations with the 1 Sights & Activities
neighbouring Chinese. China occupied the
country in the 2nd century BC, and was not Homestay owners as well as park staff can
vanquished until the 10th century. help organise activities. Boat trips (around
650,000d, up to 12 passengers) are the most
Any time the Chinese wanted to advance popular activity but there’s also opportuni-
upon Vietnam’s affairs, they could do so ties for kayaking, cycling and trekking.
through the northeast. The most recent oc-
currence was in a 1979 attempt to punish the Trekking routes can take in Hmong, Tay
Vietnamese for their occupation of Cambo- and Dzao villages scattered through the
dia. Thousands of ethnic Chinese also fled park. Trekking costs depend on the number
this region in the 1970s and 1980s during of people, starting at about US$30 per day
the war between Vietnam and China. for a solo traveller, less for a group.

More than three decades on, border trade Ba Be Lake LAKE
is surging ahead and Chinese tourists flock
to the region during summer. Rimmed by limestone peaks that swoop
down to the shoreline, Ba Be (meaning Three
88 Getting There & Away Bays) is in fact three linked lakes, with a total
length of 8km and a width of about 400m.
Hanoi is the gateway to the northeast. Road Most boat excursions around the lakes
connections are fast and buses frequent in the visit the An Ma Pagoda, on an islet in
lowlands, but as the terrain gets more mountain- the middle of the lake, and the 300m-long
ous, things slow down considerably and buses tunnel-l­ ike Hang Puong (Puong Cave), full
get creakier. There are also slow rail links to of stalactites and stalagmites and home to as
Haiphong and Lang Son. many as 7000 bats (belonging to 18 species).
Other Ba Be Lake stops can include the
Ba Be National Park pretty Tay village of Cam Ha (where every
timber house has a satellite dish) and the
% 0281 startling, circular, jungle-rimmed lagoon of
Ao Tien.
Often referred to as the Ba Be Lakes, Ba Be More than a hundred species of fresh­
National Park (%0281-389 4014; admission water fish inhabit the lake and plentiful bird
25,000d) was established in 1992 as Viet- life is easily spotted – keep an eye out for
nam’s eighth national park. The scenery here kingfishers and raptors. Two of the lakes
swoops from towering limestone mountains are separated by a 100m-wide strip of water
peaking at 1554m down into plunging val- called Be Kam, sandwiched between high
leys wrapped in dense evergreen forests, walls of chalk rock.
speckled with waterfalls and caves, with the
lakes themselves dominating the very heart Hua Ma Cave CAVE
of the park.
(admission 22,000d; h9am-5pm) One of Ba
The park is a rainforest area with more Be’s most popular off-the-water sights is this
than 550 named plant species, and the gov- 800m-long cave complex with a pathway
ernment subsidises the villagers not to cut leading down into a soaring cavern (up to
down the trees. The hundreds of wildlife 50m high) full of stalactites and stalagmites.
species here include 65 (mostly rarely seen) Bring a torch (flashlight) to illuminate the
mammals, 353 butterflies, 106 species of fish, darker recesses.
four kinds of turtle, the highly endangered
Vietnamese salamander and even the Bur- Dau Dang Waterfall WATERFALL
mese python. Ba Be bird life is equally pro-
lific, with 233 species recorded, including the (Thac Dau Dang) The Dau Dang Waterfall (also
spectacular crested serpent eagle and the ori- called the Ta Ken Waterfall) is a series of
ental honey buzzard. Hunting is forbidden, spectacular cascades between sheer walls
but villagers are permitted to fish. of rock.

T Tours 103
transport from Cho Ra into the heart of Ba
Most travellers come to Ba Be on pre­ Be National Park.
arranged private tours organised through
H­ anoi-based travel agencies. 88 Information

Ba Be Tourism Centre ADVENTURE TOUR There is no bank or ATM in Ba Be National Park.
Bring all the cash you’ll need with you.
(%0989 587 400; www.babenationalpark.com.vn;
Bo Lu village) This enthusiastic local office, 88 Getting There & Away
dealing in everything Ba Be, can arrange
kayaking, boating, hiking and cycling trips Ba Be National Park is 240km from Hanoi, 61km
(or a combo of all four) for around US$30 from Bac Kan and 18km from Cho Ra.
per day. Hires kayaks for US$5 per hour.
Specialises in multiday treks and camping Most people visit Ba Be as part of a tour, or
trips in the further reaches of the national by chartered vehicle from Hanoi (a 4WD is not N o rth e rn Vi e tna m TNCoounrrtSshoena s&tDVeine tKni eapmB a c
park. necessary).

4 Sleeping & Eating BUS
From Hanoi, the most direct route to Ba Be’s
Ba Be has a well-established homestay lakeside homestay villages of Pac Ngoi, Bo Lu
program allowing travellers to experience and Coc Toc is the local bus to Cho Don, via Thai
lakeside village life in typical stilted hous- Nguyen, run by Thuong Nga bus company. It
es. Most of the homestays are in Pac Ngoi leaves My Dinh bus station at 10am (130,000d,
village. All have hot water and can provide four hours). At Cho Don, you hop on a connecting
meals (50,000d to 80,000d) as long as they minibus (run by the same company) to Pac Ngoi,
are ordered in advance. The even quieter Bo Lu and Coc Toc (40,000d).
lake villages of Bo Lu and Coc Toc also have
a couple of options. A more roundabout route is to head into the
park via Cho Ra. To Cho Ra directly, there is
The Ba Be National Park office can organ- a daily bus at noon from Hanoi’s Gia Lam bus
ise homestays for independent travellers but station (180,000d, six hours). A direct bus
you can also just show up and check in. (90,000d, five hours) also departs from Cao
Bang for Cho Ra at noon. There are also regular
Another option is to use the nearby town bus services from both Thai Nguyen and Cho
of Cho Ra as a base. Don to Cho Ra. Once in Cho Ra you can arrange a
xe om (motorbike taxi; about 100,000d) to cover
Mr Linh’s Homestay GUESTHOUSE $ the last 18km into the park.
(%0989 587 400; www.mrlinhhomestay.com; Coc
Toc village; dm/s/d incl breakfast US$5/20/25; Departing Ba Be’s lakeside villages there are
aW) A step up in amenities to Ba Be’s minibuses to Cho Don at 6am and 1.30pm. If
homestays, this lakeside place in Coc Toc you’re heading northeast from Ba Be, you can
village is run by the same crew behind Ba get a local bus from Cho Ra to Na Phac, from
Be Tourism Centre. Small, spick-and-span where there are services to Cao Bang.
wood-panelled private rooms, and a dorm, all
share bathrooms. Kayaks can be hired, and Con Son & Den Kiep Bac
pre-ordered set menu meals cost 120,000d.
Although most appealing to domestic trav-
Hoa Son Guesthouse HOMESTAY $ ellers, Con Son and Den Kiep Bac are po-
(%0168 962 3971, 0281-389 4065; Pac Ngoi village; tential diversions en route to Haiphong or
per person 70,000d) The very-well-kept Hoa Halong City.
Son Guesthouse is one of the best Ba Be
homestay options, with a huge balcony and Con Son was home to Nguyen Trai (1380–
lake views. Meals (30,000d to 60,000d) are 1442), the famed Vietnamese poet, writer
available, and can include fresh fish from and general who assisted Emperor Le Loi
the lake. in his successful battle against the Chinese
Ming dynasty in the 15th century. Con Son
Thuy Dung Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ Pagoda (Con Son; admission per person/vehi-
(%0281-387 6354; 5 Tieu Khu, Cho Ra; r 400,000d; cle 5000/15,000d) has a temple honouring
aW) This friendly, family-run spot has ba- Nguyen Trai. It’s a strenuous 600-step climb.
sic, clean rooms with balconies and views of Alternatively, loop past a spring through
the nearby rice paddies. There’s a good res- pine forests and return down the steps.
taurant, and the staff can arrange onward
Nearby, Kiep Bac Temple (Den Kiep Bac;
admission per person/vehicle 5000/15,000d) is
dedicated to Tran Hung Dao (1228–1300).

104 centrates on the city’s history with English
Founded in 1300, the temple sits where the translations on displays. The front hall’s tax-
legendary general is said to have died. With- idermy collection is rather creepy but there’s
in the complex there’s an exhibition on his good exhibits of finds from the Trang Kenh
exploits, but you’ll need someone to trans- and Viet Khe Tombs archaeological sites
late. The annual Tran Hung Dao Festival and some beautiful ceramic pieces. The mu-
here is held on the 20th day of the eighth seum’s garden harbours a diverse collection
lunar month, usually in October. of war detritus.
Den Kiep Bac and Con Son are in Hai
Duong province, about 80km east of Hanoi. Queen of the Rosary Cathedral CATHEDRAL
With your own wheels, it’s easy to detour en (P Hoang Van Thu; h24hr) Haiphong’s elegant
route to Haiphong or Halong Bay. Roman Catholic cathedral was built in the
19th century and comprehensively restored
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHiaogirhptthhsoen&agsAtctVi ve ti tni easm Haiphong in 2010. The building’s grey towers are a lo-
cal landmark, although the actual interior of
% 031 / POP 816,000 the church is rather plain.

Northern Vietnam’s most approachable city Opera House HISTORIC BUILDING
has a distinctly laid-back air with its tree-
lined boulevards host to a bundle of graceful (P Quang Trung) With a facade embellished
colonial-era buildings. Caffeine-aficionado with white columns, Haiphong’s neoclas-
heaven, the central area buzzes with dinky sical Opera House dates from 1904. Unfor-
cafes where tables spill out onto the pave- tunately it’s usually not possible to view the
ments – perfect for people watching. interior.

Apart from the cafe culture, there’s not Du Hang Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE
actually much to do and most travellers only
use Haiphong as a transport hop between (121 P Chua Hang; h7am-10pm) Du Hang Pago-
the bus from Hanoi and the ferry to Cat Ba da was founded three centuries ago. It’s been
Island. If you do decide to linger, you’ll find rebuilt several times, but remains a fine ex-
a friendly town with minimal hassles that ample of traditional Vietnamese architec-
makes a relaxing change from Vietnam’s ture and sculpture. P Chua Hang leading to
main tourism centres. the pagoda is a narrow thoroughfare, bus-
tling with Haiphong street life. The pagoda
is around 1.5km southwest of Haiphong’s
History main street, P Dien Bien Phu.

The French took possession of Haiphong in Navy Museum MUSEUM
1874 and the city developed rapidly, becom-
ing a major port. Heavy industry evolved (P Dien Bien Phu; h8-11am Tue, Thu & Sat) F
through the proximity to coal supplies. The Navy Museum is interesting for visiting
sailors and US Vietnam veterans.
The French bombardment of Haiphong
in 1946 killed thousands and was a catalyst 4 Sleeping
for the ensuing Franco–Viet Minh War. Be-
tween 1965 and 1972 Haiphong came under Bao Anh Hotel HOTEL $
air and naval attack from the US, and the (%031-382 3406; www.hotelbaoanh.com; 20 P
city’s harbour was mined to disrupt Soviet Minh Khai; r incl breakfast 400,000-600,000d;
military supplies. In the late 1970s and the aW) Refurbished with lots of white paint
1980s Haiphong experienced a mass exodus and new white linen, the Bao Anh has a
that included many ethnic Chinese refugees, great location in a leafy street framed by
who left taking much of the city’s fishing plane trees and buzzy cafes. It’s a short walk
fleet with them. to good beer places if you’re after something
stronger. The friendly English-speaking re-
Today Haiphong is a fast-growing city, ception is definitely open to negotiation.
attracting investment from multinational
corporations lured by its port facilities and Monaco Hotel HOTEL $$
transport links. (%031-374 6468; www.haiphongmonacohotel.

1 Sights & Activities com; 103 P Dien Bien Phu; r incl breakfast US$30-
50; paW) Modern and central, the Monaco
Haiphong Museum MUSEUM features a smart lobby with helpful staff that

(66 P Dien Bien Phu; admission 5000d; h8-11am speak a little English. The spacious, spotless
Tue-Sun & 7.30-9.30pm Wed & Sun) In a splendid
colonial building, this small museum con-

105

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AB D

æ Sights 9 Com Vietnam.......................................... B1
1 Haiphong Museum ................................ B2 10 Nam Giao ................................................C2
2 Navy Museum ........................................ C2 11 Phono Box...............................................C2
3 Opera House .......................................... B3 12 Van Tue ................................................... D1
4 Queen of the Rosary Cathedral ............ B2 û Drinking & Nightlife
13 Big Man Restaurant ...............................C3
ÿ Sleeping 14 Caffe Tra Cuc..........................................C2
5 AVANI Hai Phong Harbour View 15 Vuon Dua ................................................D2
Hotel .....................................................D1 ï Transport
6 Bao Anh Hotel ........................................ C2 16 Lac Long Bus Station............................. A1
7 Monaco Hotel......................................... B2 17 Taxi Rank ................................................C2
18 Vietnam Airlines .....................................B3
ú Eating
8 BKK ......................................................... C2

rooms have rather uninspired decor but 5 Eating
come with attractive bathrooms.
Haiphong is noted for its fresh seafood. Visit
Avani Hai Phong P Quang Trung for seafood restaurants with
point-and-cook tanks, as well as bia hoi
Harbour View Hotel HOTEL $$$ (beer) joints. For more stylish cafes and res-
(%031-382 7827; www.avanihotels.com; 12 P Tran taurants, take a wander along P Minh Khai.
Phu; r incl breakfast US$125-140; paWs) Built
in replica-colonial style in 1998, this hotel
has classically styled rooms and good facil- Com Vietnam VIETNAMESE $
(%031-384 1698; 4a P Hoang Van Thu; meals
ities, including a gym, spa and the excellent 40,000-60,000d; h11am-9pm) This restaurant
Nam Phuong Restaurant. The super-friendly
team on reception can arrange tours around hits the spot for its affordable local seafood
and Vietnamese specialities. Diminutive,
Haiphong in a vintage Citroën car. Be sure to unpretentious and with a small patio.
try for a substantial discount off rack rates.

106

oNam Giao VIETNAMESE $$ different ways. It’s packed with locals every
(22 P Le Dai Hanh; meals 90,000-250,000d; night enjoying a few (not so) quiet beers
h7am-11.30pm) Haiphong’s most atmos- after work.
pheric dining choice is hidden within this
dilapidated colonial building. Rooms are Big Man Restaurant BAR

an artful clutter of Asian art, old carved (%031-384 2383; 7 P Tran Hung Dao; h11am-
cabinets and antiques, while the small but 11pm; W) This sprawling bar-restaurant has
well-executed menu includes an aromatic an outdoor terrace and doubles as a micro-
herby sea bass wrapped in banana leaf and brewery with light and dark lager. There’s an
extensive menu (meals from 100,000d) with
a succulent caramelised pork belly cooked some decent seafood and excellent Vietnam-
in a clay pot. ese salads.

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m DNH raoirnptkhhoi ennaggs&t EVni ettenratma i nm e nt Phono Box CAFE $$ Caffe Tra Cuc CAFE
(79 P Dien Bien Phu; meals 100,000-250,000d;
h9am-11pm; W) With its brick-wall interior (46c P Minh Khai; h7am-11pm; W) The coffee,
done loads of ways, and free wi-fi is lapped
displaying old music paraphernalia and a up by grizzled regulars and Haiphong tren-
jazzy soundtrack, Phono Box is a hip hang-
out for coffee and beer lovers that also serves dies alike.

up a European-style menu of steaks and oth- 88 Information
er meaty offerings.
Cafes on P Minh Khai have free wi-fi. ATMs dot
BKK THAI $$ the city centre.
(%031-382 1018; 22 P Minh Khai; meals 80,000- BIDV Bank (P Dien Bien Phu; h 8am-3pm Mon-
150,000d; h11.30am-10pm; v) At this restored Fri, 8am-11am Sat, ATM 24hr)
townhouse, authentic Thai dishes are beau- Haiphong International Hospital (% 031-
tifully prepared and presented – try the lab 395 5888; 124 P Nguyen Duc Canh) Recently
moo (pork salad) or pepper squid; there are built and modern, with some English-speaking
good vegetarian options too. Leave room for doctors.

dessert, which includes delicious coconut ice 88 Getting There & Away
cream.

Van Tue SEAFOOD $$ AIR
(%031-374 6338; 1 P Hoang Dieu; meals 100,000- Cat Bi airport is 6km southeast of central
250,000d; h11am-11pm) This elegant French Haiphong. Daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City and
colonial villa is renowned for seafood, in- Danang are offered by Jetstar Pacific Airways
cluding an amazing selection of crab dishes. (%1900 1550; www.jetstar.com), Vietnam Air-
More exotic dishes featuring deer and goat lines (% 031-381 0890; www.vietnamair.com.vn;
are also on the menu. A favourite with local 30 P Hoang Van Thu) and VietJet (%1900 1886;
well-to-do families. www.vietjetair.com).

6 Drinking & Entertainment BOAT
Ben Binh Harbour (Ð Ben Binh) Boats leave
P Minh Khai is the heart of Haiphong’s caf- from the ferry pier, 10 minutes’ walk from the
feine action, where most cafes have street city centre. Hydrofoils depart for Cat Ba Town
terraces, serve beer and have a snack menu. (220,000d, around one hour depending on sea
conditions) at 7am, 9am, 1pm and 3pm.
Haiphong Brewery BIA HOI
Note that due to a new bridge being built
(16 Ɖ Lach Tray; h10am-8pm) The local brew between Haiphong and Cat Hai Island, Ben
is deservedly renowned around Vietnam, Binh ferry pier may move to Cat Hai Island after
and the best place to try it is at the brew- the bridge is finished (with bridge completion
ery’s bustling beer hall. Lunchtimes get very pegged for summer 2017).
crowded – the food is cheap and very good –
but staff can always find room for a few BUS
more drinkers. The brewery is a short cab Haiphong has three long-distance bus stations:
ride to the southeast of the city centre. Lac Long Bus Station (P Cu Chinh Lan) The
closest bus station to Haiphong city centre and
Vuon Dua BIA HOI very convenient for those connecting with the
Cat Ba boats at nearby Ben Binh Harbour. Op-
(5 P Tran Hung Dao; h11am-11pm) Boisterous erates services heading north from Haiphong
beer garden with lots of cheap brews, and and to Hanoi.
squid, chicken and pork prepared in many

107

BUSES FROM HAIPHONG’S LAC LONG BUS STATION

DESTINATION DURATION (HR) COST (D) FREQUENCY
2 60,000 frequent 5am-5pm
Bai Chay (Halong City) 3 70,000 frequent 5am-6pm
Cai Rong (Van Don
Island) 2 70,000 frequent 5am-6pm
Hanoi (Giap Bat bus
station) 7 80,000 5.30am
Lang Son 5¾ 160,000 8am, 10am, 1pm,
Mong Cai 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm,
9pm, 10.30pm
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m GHN eaotlrtotinhngegaBAsartyoVui entdn a m
Niem Nghia Bus Station (Ð Tran Nguyen Han) tourism hub. Sprawling Halong City is the
Serves destinations south of Haiphong, such bay’s main gateway but its dowdy high-­rises
as to Ninh Binh (120,000d, 3½ hours, every 30 are a disappointing doorstep to this site.
minutes). Most visitors sensibly opt for cruise-tours
Tam Bac Bus Station (P Tam Bac) Buses to that include sleeping on board within the
Hanoi (70,000d, two hours, every 10 minutes). bay, while a growing number are deciding
to eschew the main bay completely, heading
CAR & MOTORBIKE straight for Cat Ba Island from where trips
Haiphong is 103km from Hanoi on the express- to less-visited but equally alluring Lan Ha
way, Hwy 5. Bay are easily set up.

TRAIN Halong Bay attracts visitors year-round
A slow spur-line service travels daily to Hanoi’s with peak season between late May and
Long Bien station (48,000d, 2½ hours, 6.05am, early August. January to March is often cool
8.55am, 2.55pm, 6.40pm). and drizzly, and the ensuing fog can make
visibility low, but adds bags of eerie atmos-
88 Getting Around phere. From May to September tropical
storms are frequent, and year-round tourist
A taxi from central Haiphong to Cat Bi airport boats sometimes need to alter their itinerar-
should be around 150,000d. Try Haiphong Taxi ies, depending on the weather. November’s
(% 031-383 8383) or Taxi Mai Linh (% 031-383 sunny blue-sky days and lack of crowds
3833). make it the best time to make a beeline here.

A xe om from the bus stations to the hotels 1 Sights & Activities
should be around 30,000d.
Most cruises and day-tripper boats include
Halong Bay at least a couple of caves, an island stop-off,
and a visit to one of Halong Bay’s floating
% 033 villages. The villagers here farm fish, which
are caught offshore and fattened up in net-
Towering limestone pillars and tiny islets ted enclosures.
topped by forest rise from the emerald wa-
ters of the Gulf of Tonkin. Halong translates Caves
as ‘where the dragon descends into the sea’ Halong Bay’s islands are peppered with
and legend tells that this mystical seascape caves, many now illuminated with tech-
was created when a great mountain dragon nicolor lighting effects. Sadly, litter and
charged towards the coast, its flailing tail trinket-touting vendors are also part of the
gouging out valleys and crevasses. As the experience.
creature plunged into the sea, the area filled
with water leaving only the pinnacles visi- Which of the caves you’ll visit depends on
ble. The geological explanation of karst ero- factors, including the weather and the num-
sion may be more prosaic, but doesn’t make ber of other boats in the vicinity.
this seascape any less poetic.
Hang Dau Go CAVE
Designated a World Heritage site in 1994,
Halong Bay’s spectacular scatter of islands, (Cave of Wooden Stakes) This huge cave con-
dotted with wind- and wave-eroded grottoes, sists of three chambers reached via 90 steps.
is a vision of ethereal beauty and, unsur- Inside, ceilings soar up to 25m high while
prisingly, northern Vietnam’s number one

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SHNiaoglrhotthnseg&aBsAatyctV i ev ittni easm 108

Halong Bay & Bai Tu Long Bay 0 10 km
0 6 miles

Ðong Mung QUANG NINH Dao Van Don Island Dao
Ha Loan (Dao Cai Bau) Sau Nam
279
Nam Vap Bai Dai Bai Tu Long
(1142m) (Long Beach) National Park

Nga Hai Cai Rong

Mong Dao
Duong Cao Lo

Haiphong Cam Pha Cua Ong Bai Tu Long Bay Co To Island
(40km) (Dao Co To)
18

18 Troi Ha Tu
See Halong City Map (p110)

Halong City Tra Ban Island
(Dao Tra Ban)
Bai Chay Dao Minh Chau
Hang Dau Go & The Vang
Hoang Dao Hang Thien Cung Minh Chau Ferry
Tan Tuan Dao
Chau Trao Van Don
Dao Van Hai Island Trading Port
Dao Hang Dau Go Halong Dao Cong Dong (Cu Lao Mang) Ruins
(Île des Merveilles) Bay Cong Do Son Hao
Quan Lan Island
HAI PHONG Dao Titop (Dao Canh Cuoc)

Gia Luan Hang Sung Sot Quan Lan
Harbour Quan Lan Town
Cat Ba (NgIVNsoDlcuagannoVodgcu) nBHgeuatcPshHhDooaaunongg Quan Lan Ferry
Island Ech Viet Hai Hang Trong
Village Dao Thuong Mai
Cat Hai LakeCat Ba Gulf of Tonkin
Cai Vieng National Dao Hang Trai World Heritage
(Phu Long) Whisper of (Île de l'Union) Zone
HangPark Nature

Haiphong Hospital Trung Trang Dao
(17km) Cave Dau Be
Ben Beo
Cat Ba Cat Ba Dao Ha Mai
Eco Lodge

See Cat Ba Town Map (p114) Hon Cat Dua
Lan Ha Bay

109

some rather disco-festive lighting illumi- WATCH THOSE
nates a wacky array of stalactites. Among VALUABLES!
the stalactites of the first hall, scores of
gnomes appear to be holding a meeting. Take real care with your valuables when
The cave derives its name from the role it cruising the waters of Halong Bay on
played during the 13th-century battles with day-trip boats. Do not leave them un-
the Mongolians when locals stored wooden attended as they might grow legs and
stakes, used to destroy invading ships, in the walk. When it comes to overnight cruis-
third chamber here. es, most boats have lockable cabins.

Hang Thien Cung CAVE

Part of the same cave system as Hang Dau both of which run professionally organised
Go, nearby Hang Thien Cung has ‘cauliflow- trips and have qualified guides. Trips are op-
er’ limestone growths as well as stalactites erated in less-touristed Lan Ha Bay. N o rth e rn Vi e tna m IHNnaoflrootrnhmgeaaBtsaitoynV i e tn a m
and stalagmites.
88 Information
Hang Sung Sot CAVE
All visitors must purchase entry tickets for
(Surprise Cave) The popular Hang Sung Sot the national park (admission 120,000d) and
has three vast chambers; in the second there are also separate admission tickets for
there’s a pink-lit rock phallus unsurprising- attractions in the bay, such as caves and fishing
ly regarded as a fertility symbol. Even less villages (30,000d to 50,000d). Most admission
surprisingly, some guides refer to it as the fees are included with organised cruises, but
‘Cock Rock’. check when booking.
Halong Bay Tourist Information Centre
Hang Trong CAVE (% 033-384 7481; www.halong.org.vn; Bai Chay
Tourist Wharf, Ɖ Halong; h7am-4pm) The of-
(Drum Grotto) Hang Trong has wide-arched ficial Halong Bay Tourist Information Centre is
entrances on either side and a ceiling clus- at Bai Chay Tourist Wharf in Halong City. Here
tered with stalactites. It’s named because you’ll find English-speaking staff and excellent
when the wind blows through its stalactites, maps (20,000d) of the Halong Bay area.
the effect resembles the sound of distant
drumbeats. 88 Getting There & Around

Islands & Islets Most travellers elect to experience Halong Bay
Cat Ba Island is the most developed of on a cruise-tour prearranged in Hanoi, which
Halong Bay’s islands with Cat Ba Town the usually includes transfers to/from the bay.
launching pad for the Lan Ha Bay region.
Some Halong Bay cruise operators include It’s also possible to head to Halong City (Bai
Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay on their itineraries. Chay) independently and book a boat trip at Bai
Chay Tourist Wharf.
Dao Titop ISLAND
Alternatively, head directly to Cat Ba Island
(Titop Island) This small island (complete with from Hanoi and arrange a boat trip from there to
a scruffy beach) is a popular boat stop for explore Lan Ha Bay.
superb panoramic views across Halong Bay Bai Chay Tourist Wharf (Ɖ Halong, Halong
from its summit. City; h7am-6pm) From always bustling Bai
Chay Tourist Wharf there are two main boat
Dao Ga Choi ISLAND trips. Route One (100,000d, four hours) potters
around the waters of nearby islands visiting the
(Fighting Cockerel Islet) One of Halong Bay’s caves of Hang Dau Go and Hang Thien Cung.
most photographed sites, these two jagged Route Two (150,000d, six hours) heads further
rocks jutting 10m out of the water look like into the bay to Hang Sung Sot and Dao Titop.
two fighting cockerels having a face-off.
On these trips you also have to factor in the
Kayaking separate admission costs to the national park
A kayak among the karsts is an option on and to each attraction. These day-trip tours
most Halong Bay tours. Count on about an are an entirely local tourist experience. Expect
hour’s paddling, often including negotiating a packed boat and boisterous Vietnamese
your way through karst grottoes and around karaoke tunes pumping from the stereo as your
lagoons, or to a floating village in the bay. soundtrack.

If you’re really keen on kayaking, contact If there’s a group of you to share costs, there’s the
Handspan Adventure Travel (p88) in Hanoi option of hiring a complete boat and creating your
or Blue Swimmer (p116) on Cat Ba Island,

110

Halong City e# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
ABCD

66661 ÿ#3 BAI
Ð Bai Chay CHAY Hon Gai Ferry Pier (4km);
Ð A nh Dao Ð14
Ð Vuo n Dao 6 DCai Rong (75km)
ÿ#1 þ# 1
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NSHlaoelreotpnhigne agBsaty V i e tn a m Ð C a Lan

4 Ð Halong 2
ú#
#Ù
6666662 5#ú ò#
44444444/·2

66666644444444ÐHalong
BNeoac1h
2
ì# ÿ#
444444443 Bai Chay Tourist Wharf (1km);
Bai Chay ›# (5km);
Tuan Chau Ferry Pier (13km)
646446446444Ù#Beach No 2 Halong Bay 3

D

ABCD
44444444
Halong City Chinese and Korean visitors are now more
prevalent, preferring to enjoy terra firma
ÿ Sleeping attractions like casinos and karaoke after a
1 Halong Backpacker Hostel ................. C1 day exploring the bay.
2 Novotel .................................................A3
3 The Light Hotel .................................... B1
4 Sleeping

ú Eating Budget accommodation is on, and around,
4 Linh Dan Restaurant ...........................B2 the hotel road of Ð Vuon Dao, home to
5 Tuan Huong..........................................B2 around 50 identikit minihotels. Midrange

þ Shopping and top-end hotels are scattered along Ð
6 Bai Chay Market .................................. C1 Halong and around the harbour area.

Prices are very reasonable outside of the
peak season (June to July) or during the Tet
own itinerary (per hour Monday to Friday 400,000d, festival.
per hour Saturday and Sunday 500,000d).
The Light Hotel HOTEL $
Bai Chay Tourist Wharf prices are officially (%033-384 8518; www.thelighthalong.vn; 108a Ɖ
regulated. Vuon Dao; r 350,000d; aW) The good-sized,

Halong City modern and super-clean rooms here are
excellent value. Chuck in the fact that some
% 033 / POP 201,990 of the helpful staff speak English and you’ve

Development has not been kind to Halong got Halong City’s best budget find.
City (Bai Chay). Despite enjoying a stunning
position on the cusp of Halong Bay, this is a Halong Backpacker Hostel HOSTEL $
gritty town with pockets of bland high-rise (%033-361 9333; www.halongbackpackerhostel.
hotel development dotting the shoreline. com; 41 Ɖ Anh Dao; dm US$5; aW) This new
hostel (don’t confuse it with the ‘Halong
Many travellers opt to skip Halong City Backpacker’s Hostel’ on Ɖ Vuon Dao) has
completely, preferring to spend a night out small, light-filled six-bed dorms and a lively
in Halong Bay itself. Increased competition downstairs bar.
for a dwindling clientele means budget hotel
rates are some of the cheapest in Vietnam.

111

CRUISING THE KARSTS N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHlaoelreotpnhigne agBsaty V i e tn a m

The most popular way to experience Halong Bay’s karst scenery is on a cruise. Luckily
everyone, their grandmother and their friendly family dog wants to sell you a Halong Bay
tour in Hanoi. Unluckily, shoddy operators abound.

Every year we receive complaints from travellers about poor service, bad food and
rats running around boats on ultra-budget cruises, and more expensive trips where itin-
erary expectations didn’t meet what was delivered.

Tours sold out of Hanoi start from a rock-bottom US$60 per person for a dodgy day
trip, and can rise to around US$220 for two nights. For around US$110 to US$130, you
should get a worthwhile overnight cruise.

At the other end of the scale, cruising the karsts aboard a luxury Chinese-style junk is
hard to beat. But be aware that paying top dollar doesn’t necessarily compute into head-
ing away from the crowds.

If you want to experience less-crowded karst views, consider cruises focussed on Lan
Ha Bay, near Cat Ba Island.

Most cruise-tours include return transport from Hanoi, Halong Bay entrance fees and
meals. A decent overnight tour usually includes kayaking. Drinks are extra.

This is one destination where it definitely pays to do your homework beforehand. Here
are some suggestions to help make Halong Bay memorable for the right, rather than
wrong, reasons:

¨¨It can be a false economy to sign up for an ultra-cheapie tour. Spend a little more and
enjoy the experience a whole lot more.

¨¨At the very least, check basic on-board safety standards. Life jackets should be
provided. If kayaking is included, make sure it’s guided. Currents close to the karst
formations are surprisingly strong. Accidents can occur when visitors are left to paddle
off themselves.

¨¨Realise that most Halong Bay cruises follow a strict itinerary, with stops at caves often
at the same time as other boats. On an overnight trip there’s simply not the time to stray
far from Halong City.

¨¨Make sure you know what you’re paying for to avoid disappointment later. Many
cruises (including luxury options) are marketed as ‘two-day’ trips but are actually
overnight tours, some involving less than 24 hours on board.

¨¨Ascertain in advance what the tour company’s refund policy is if the cruise is cancelled
due to bad weather.

Cruise operators to consider:

Cat Ba Ventures (p116) Overnight tours set out from Cat Ba Island and concentrate on
the Lan Ha Bay area.

Handspan Adventure Travel (p355) Operates the only true sailing ship on the bay;
meander peacefully through the karsts without the constant hum of a diesel engine.

Indochina Sails (%04-3984 2362; www.indochinasails.com; overnight tour with d cabin from
US$478) Cruise Halong on a traditional junk with great viewing decks and cabins kitted
out to a three-star standard.

Vega Travel (p88) Good-value overnight tours of Halong Bay, with comfortable cabins.
Two-night tours also explore Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island, including kayaking, cycling
and hiking.

Novotel HOTEL $$$ simply stunning, with teak floors, marble
(%033-384 8108; www.novotelhalongbay.com; bathrooms and sliding screens to divide liv-
160 Ð Halong; r from US$95; naiWs) The ing areas. Facilities include an oval infinity
Novotel fuses Asian and Japanese influences pool and a great restaurant.
with contemporary details. The rooms are

112
BUSES FROM HALONG CITY

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m HENaotlriotnnhgge aBsaty V i e tn a m DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY
Cai Rong 35,000 1½ every 30 minutes
(Van Don Island) between 8am & 6pm
Haiphong 60,000 2
Hanoi 90,000 4 frequent 6.20am-5pm
Lang Son 110,000 5½
Mong Cai 80,000 4 frequent 5.45am-6pm

Ninh Binh 100,000 4 6am, 11.45am, 12.15pm
Sapa 400,000 12
every 40 minutes
between 6.20am & 3pm

5.30am, 11.30am

7am, 6pm

5 Eating Note that many buses to Halong City will be
marked ‘Bai Chay’ rather than ‘Halong City’.
Halong City is not foodie heaven. Restau-
rants (many focused on seafood) rim the BOAT
stretch of Ɖ Halong west of Bai Chay Tour- Day-tripping boats leave from Bai Chay Tourist
ist Wharf (a 40,000d taxi ride from Ɖ Vuon Wharf (p109).
Dao). Hon Gai Ferry Pier (Ɖ Le Thanh Tong) From
Hon Gai Ferry Pier (across the suspension
For cheap, filling food, there are modest bridge from Halong City) there is one daily
eating joints with English menus at the bot- speedboat service to Quan Lan Island at
tom of Ð Vuon Dao, and hole-in-the-wall 1.30pm (160,000d, 1½ hours).
pho places along Ɖ Bai Chay. Tuan Chau Ferry Pier (Tuan Chau Island) From
Tuan Chau Ferry Pier, 13km southwest of cen-
Linh Dan Restaurant VIETNAMESE $ tral Bai Chay, there are two car ferries to Cat Ba
(%033-384 6025; 104 Ɖ Bai Chay; meals US$3-5; Island’s Gia Luan Harbour at 8am and 3pm (per
h11am-9pm) Linh Dan has a novella-length person/motorbike 70,000/10,000d, one hour)
menu conjuring up pretty much every stir- throughout the year with hourly services during
fried variation on pork, chicken, seafood and the peak period of June to early August.
vegetables.
Gia Luan Harbour is on the other side of the
Tuan Huong VIETNAMESE $ island from Cat Ba Town, so unless you’re travel-
(%033-384 4651; 1 Ð Vuon Dao; meals from ling by motorbike, it’s more convenient to catch
80,000d; h10am-10pm) A simple place with a ferry to Cat Ba from Haiphong.
a small menu (in English and French) that
specialises in fresh seafood. You can also CAR & MOTORBIKE
pick your fish or crab from the tanks out- Halong City is 160km from Hanoi and 55km from
side, but make sure you check the price Haiphong. The one-way trip from Hanoi takes
(worked out by weight) first. about three hours by private vehicle.

88 Information 88 Getting Around

Main Post Office (Ð Halong; h7am-6pm Bai Chay is quite spread out; Mai Linh (% 033-
Mon-Fri) 382 2226) is a reliable taxi option. A taxi from
Vietcombank (Ð Halong; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, central Halong City to Tuan Chau Ferry Pier
8-11.30am Sat) costs around 130,000d.

88 Getting There & Away Cat Ba Island

BUS % 031 / POP 13,500
All buses leave from Bai Chay bus station (off
Hwy 18), 6km south of central Bai Chay. For Tam Rugged, craggy and jungle-clad Cat Ba, the
Coc, hop on the Ninh Binh–bound bus. largest island in Halong Bay, has experi-
enced a tourism surge in recent years. The
There are regular services to Cai Rong on Van central hub of Cat Ba Town is now framed by
Don Island, where ferries depart for the islands a chain of low-rise concrete hotels along its
of Bai Tu Long Bay from Cai Rong Pier (Cai Rong once-lovely bay, but the rest of the island is
Pha). largely untouched and as wild as ever. With

113

idyllic Lan Ha Bay just offshore you’ll soon appeal. Sailing and kayak trips here are best
overlook Cat Ba Town’s overdevelopment. organised in Cat Ba Town.

Cat Ba is a pretty laid-back place most Geologically, Lan Ha is an extension of
of the year and for climbers, kayakers and Halong Bay but sits in a different province
hikers it’s the launching pad for a swag of of Vietnam. Around 200 species of fish, 500
sweat-inducing activities. Between June and species of mollusc, 400 species of arthropod,
early August (and particularly on summer and numerous hard and soft coral live in the
weekends) the energy level gets dialled up waters here, while larger marine animals in
significantly as Cat Ba Town transforms into the area include seals and three species of
a roaring resort, filled with vacationing Viet- dolphin.
namese. This is peak season and hotel prices
during this period can skyrocket. The bay’s admission fee is often incorpo-
rated into the cost of tours.
Almost half of Cat Ba Island (with a to-
tal area of 354 sq km) and 90 sq km of the Cat Ba National Park NATIONAL PARK N o rth e rn Vi e tna m HSNiaoglrhottnhsge aBsaty V i e tn a m
adjacent waters were declared a national
park in 1986 to protect the island’s diverse (%031-216 350; admission 30,000d; hsunrise-­
ecosystems. Most of the coastline consists of sunset) Cat Ba’s beautiful national park is
rocky cliffs, but there are some sandy beach- home to 32 types of mammal, including
es and tiny fishing villages hidden away in most of the world’s 65 remaining golden-
small coves. headed langur, the world’s most endangered
primate. There are some good hiking trails
Lakes, waterfalls and grottoes dot the here, including a hard-core 18km route up
spectacular limestone hills, the highest ris- to a mountain summit.
ing 331m above sea level. The island’s largest To reach the park headquarters at
body of water is Ech Lake (3 hectares). Al- Trung Trang, hop on the green QH public
most all of the surface streams are season- bus from the docks at Cat Ba Town, hire a
al. Most of the island’s rainwater flows into xe om (around 80,000d one way), or rent a
caves and follows underground streams to motorbike for the day.
the sea, creating a shortage of fresh water A guide is not mandatory but is definite-
during the dry season. ly recommended to help you make sense of
the verdant canopy of trees. Most visitors
Ho Chi Minh paid a visit to Cat Ba Island opt to visit the park on an organised tour –
on 1 April 1951 and there is an annual festi- Cat Ba Ventures (p116) runs good day-trips
val to commemorate the event. During this here – but you can also arrange guides
time, expect lots of waterfront karaoke and with the rangers at the park headquarters.
techno beats from 8am to midnight. Within the park the multi-chambered Hang
Trung Trang (Trung Trang Cave) is easily
1 Sights accessible, but you will need to contact a
ranger to make sure it’s open. Bring a torch
First impressions of Cat Ba Town are not (flashlight).
great, but the mediocre vision of a low-rent The challenging 18km hiking trail in the
mini-Manhattan only extends for a street or park takes six hours and is best done with
two behind the promenade. A Ho Chi Minh a guide. Boat or bus transport to the trail-
monument (off Ɖ Nui Ngoc) stands up on head and a boat to get back to town also
Mountain No 1, the hillock opposite the pier need to be arranged. Again, rangers at the
in Cat Ba Town. The market (h7am-7pm) at headquarters can help with this or speak to
the northern end of the harbour is a great Cat Ba Ventures or Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba
local affair with twitching crabs, jumbo Town. Take proper hiking shoes, a raincoat
shrimps and pyramids of fresh fruit. Head and a generous supply of water for this hike.
out of town for the island’s best sights.

oLan Ha Bay BAY Independent hikers can buy basic snacks at
the kiosks in Viet Hai, which is where many
(admission 30,000d) Lying south and east of hiking groups stop for lunch. This is not an
Cat Ba Town, the 300 or so karst islands
and limestone outcrops of Lan Ha are just easy walk, and is much harder and more
slippery after rain. There are shorter hiking
as beautiful as those of Halong Bay and have options that are less strenuous.
the additional attraction of numerous white-
sand beaches. Many hikes end at Viet Hai, a remote mi-
nority village just outside the park bound-
Due to being a fair way from Halong City, ary, from where taxi boats shuttle back to
not so many tourist boats venture here,
meaning Lan Ha Bay has a more isolated Ben Beo Pier (about 200,000d per boat). A

114

Cat Ba Town e# 0 200 m
A 0 0.1 miles
#æ 3 ú# 11 B C D
Cat Ba Mountain View Ben Beo
661 Guesthouse (2.8km); Harbour
#û Ancient House Homestay (3.2km); (2.2km)
18 Gia Luan Harbour (40km)
D 1
D

Ð Nui Ngoc

16
ú#
666666ì#
19#ûú# 13 #ÿ 10 21 #ì 2
Ð 1-4 #û #ú 12 #á
22 Mountain
#›#ÿ#ÿ9 8 #ú 17 No 1
D
2 Haiphong ò# Ð Nui Ngoc 2
Ð 1-4(45km) 1

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHiaoglrhottnhsge aBsaty V i e tn a m
666666HCaartbBouarD 23›# # 4
D #5
f#
Hydrofoil to #ÿ 7
Haiphong û# 20
ú# 15
14 æ#
#ú

3 Monkey Island Hung Long Harbour Hotel (150m); 3
Cat Co 1 (500m); Cat Co 2 (800m);
6666Resort(3km) #ÿ 6

Cat Ba Beach Resort (900m);
Cat Co 3 & Sunrise Resort (1km)

ABCD

6666Cat Ba Town 12 CT Mart ...................................................B2
æ Sights 13 Family Bakery.........................................A2
1 Cannon Fort ........................................... D3
2 Ho Chi Minh Monument ........................ C2 14 Green Bamboo Forest ...........................B3
3 Market ..................................................... A1 15 Green Mango ..........................................B3
16 Phuong Nhung........................................ A1
17 Vien Duong .............................................B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
4 Asia Outdoors ........................................ B2
5 Cat Ba Ventures .................................... B2 û Drinking & Nightlife
18 Bia Hoi Stalls........................................... A1
19 Flightless Bird Café ................................A2
ÿ Sleeping
6 Cat Ba Central Hostel............................ C3 Good Bar ......................................... (see 4)
7 Cat Ba Dream ........................................ B2 20 Oasis Bar.................................................B3
8 Cat Ba Sea View..................................... B2 21 Rose Bar..................................................B2
9 Sea Pearl Hotel ...................................... B2
10 Thu Ha .................................................... A2 ï Transport
22 Hoang Long Bus Company....................B2
23 QH Green Bus to Gia Luan &
ú Eating National Park .......................................B2
11 Buddha Belly ........................................... A1

shared public boat (50,000d per person) de- in the mangrove forests. Over a thousand
parts from Ben Beo at 6am on weekdays and species of plants have been recorded in the
7am on weekends. park, including 118 trees and 160 plants with
medicinal value.
Of the mammals present in the park, the
more commonly seen include macaques, Cat Co Cove BEACH
deer, civets and several species of squirrel,
including the giant black squirrel. Seventy A 10-minute walk southeast from Cat Ba
bird species have been spotted here, includ- Town, the three Cat Co Cove beaches boast
ing hawks, hornbills and cuckoos. Cat Ba the nearest sand to town, although rubbish in
also lies on a major migration route for wa- the water can be problematic some days. Cat
terfowl that feed and roost on the beaches Co 3 is the closest, with a blink-and-you’ll-

115

miss-it sliver of sand. From there a walking north of Cat Ba Town on the road to the Cat N o rth e rn Vi e tna m AHNcaotlriotvnhi tgeiaeBssaty V i e tn a m
trail, cut into the cliff, offering gorgeous sea Ba National Park entrance.
views, winds its way to Cat Co 1 dominated
by a rather ugly resort, then onward to the A guide (most know a few words of Eng-
pretty white-sand swath of Cat Co 2. lish) will show you around the 17 rooms,
point out the old operating theatre and take
You can also walk straight up the hill to you to the huge natural cavern that was used
Cat Co 1 and 2, or take the tourist ‘train’ (ba- as a cinema (and even had its own small
sically an oversized golf cart; 10,000d) that swimming pool).
trundles over the hill during the summer
months. 2 Activities

Water-sport gear like kayaks and wind- Mountain Biking
surfers are available to rent at Cat Co 1 and 2. Hotels can arrange Chinese mountain bikes
Note that on summer weekends the beaches (around US$6 per day). Blue Swimmer
get packed and litter can be a problem. (p116) rents better-quality mountain bikes
for US$15 per day.
Other beaches located on Cat Ba Island
include Cai Vieng, Hong Xoai Be and Hong One possible route traverses the heart of
Xoai Lon. the island, past Hospital Cave down to the
west coast’s mangroves and crab farms, and
Hospital Cave HISTORIC SITE then in a loop back to Cat Ba Town past tidal
mud flats and deserted beaches.
(%031-368 8215; admission 15,000d; h7am-
4.30pm) Hospital Cave served both as a s­ ecret, Kayaking
bombproof hospital during the American Plenty of hotels in Cat Ba Town and trav-
War and as a safe house for VC leaders. Built el companies rent kayaks (half-day around
between 1963 and 1965 (with assistance US$8) ideal for exploring the Cat Ba coast in-
from China), this incredibly well-constructed dependently. Due to shifting, strong currents,
three-storey feat of engineering was in con- exploring the karst formations of Lan Ha Bay
stant use until 1975. The cave is about 10km

CLIMBING THE KARSTS

If you’ve ever been tempted to climb, Cat Ba Island is a superb place to go for it – the
karst cliffs here offer exceptional climbing amid stunning scenery. Most climbers in Cat
Ba are complete novices, but as the instruction is excellent, many leave Cat Ba com-
pletely bitten by the bug.

You don’t need great upper-body strength to climb, as you actually use your legs far
more. The karst limestone here is not too sharp and quite friendly on the hands, and as
many of the routes are sheltered by natural overhangs that prevent the climbable por-
tion of the rock from getting wet, climbing is almost always possible, rain or shine.

A few inexperienced locals may offer climbing excursions to new arrivals on Cat Ba,
but beginners should sign up with the experienced crew at Asia Outdoors (p116), who
pioneered climbing here.

Climbing opportunities are located on walls inland on Cat Ba Island or out on beauti-
ful Lan Ha Bay. You’ll be kitted up with a harness and climbing shoes, given instruction
and taught the fundamentals of the climbing and belaying techniques, then given a
demonstration. Then it’s over to you (with your climbing instructor talking you through
each move and anchoring you, of course!). Most people are able to complete a couple of
climbs at Hai Pai and Moody’s Beach, which are both ideal for beginners.

The vertical cliffs of Halong and Lan Ha Bays are also perfect for deep-water soloing,
which is basically climbing alone, without ropes or a harness, and using the ocean as a
water bed in case you fall. This is obviously only for experienced climbers, and it’s essen-
tial to know the depth of water and tidal patterns. We’ve heard reports of some climbers
being injured falling into shallow waters, so it’s vital to attempt deep-water soloing only
with an experienced crew like Asia Outdoors. It’s customary to finish a solo climb with
a controlled freefall (or ‘tombstone’) into the sea and a swim back to the shore, or your
boat.

116

CANNON FORT (US$130). It’s also just launched stand-up
paddle-boarding (SUP) trips (US$36).
For one of the best views in Vietnam –
no, we’re not kidding – head to Cannon Advanced climbers can hire gear here,
Fort (admission 40,000d; hsunrise-sunset) talk shop and pick up a copy of Vietnam: A
where there are astounding panoramas Climber’s Guide (US$20) by Asia Outdoors’
Erik Ferjentsik, which describes climbs and
has some great tips about Cat Ba too.

of Cat Ba Island’s jungle-clad hills rolling Cat Ba Ventures BOAT TOUR
down to colourful tangles of fishing
boats in the harbour and out to the (%031-388 8755, 0912 467 016; www.catbaven
karst-punctuated sea beyond. tures.com; 223 Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; overnight boat
tour per person US$128; h8am-7pm) Local-
Well-labelled paths guide visitors ly owned and operated company offering
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m HTNoaoulrortsnhge aBsaty V i e tn a m past underground tunnels, and two boat trips around Lan Ha and Halong Bays,
well-preserved gun emplacements (one one-day kayaking trips (US$29) and guided
‘manned’ by life-size Viet Minh manne- hikes in Cat Ba National Park. Excellent ser-
quins), out to two viewpoints overlook- vice from Mr Tung is reinforced by multiple
ing the island. There’s even a cafe (with reader recommendations. These guys are a
more great views) and a tiny museum. font of knowledge on everything Cat Ba and
a great source of information on onward
The tunnels and gun emplacements transport options.
here were first installed by the Japanese
in WWII, but were also utilised by the

French and Vietnamese during subse- Blue Swimmer ADVENTURE TOUR
quent conflicts.
(%031-368 8237, 0915 063 737; www.blueswim
mersailing.com; Ben Beo Harbour; overnight sail-
The entrance gate is a steep 10-minute ing trip per person from US$161; h8am-6pm)
This environmentally conscious outfit was
walk from Cat Ba Town and from the established by Vinh, one of the founders
gate it’s another stiff 20-minute walk of respected tour operator Handspan Ad-
to the fort, or take a xe om from Cat Ba venture Travel. Superb sailing and kayak-
Town (15,000d). ing trips, trekking and mountain-biking
excursions (some with overnight homestay
by kayak is best done with a guide, particular- accommodation) are offered. Check it out
ly if you’re not an experienced kayaker. at Ben Beo Harbour or at its booking office
in Cat Ba Town at the Green Bamboo Forest
Trekking r­ estaurant.
Most of Cat Ba Island consists of protected
tropical forest. Cat Ba National Park has the 4 Sleeping
most hiking opportunities.
Most basic hotels are clustered on (or just
T Tours off ) the waterfront in Cat Ba Town. There
are also some interesting options on other
Boat trips around Lan Ha Bay are offered by parts of Cat Ba Island and offshore on iso-
nearly every hotel on Cat Ba Island. Typical lated islands in Lan Ha Bay.
prices start at around US$80 for overnight
tours, but it is usually worth spending a bit Room rates fluctuate wildly; from June
more. We receive unfavourable feedback – to July they can double. In August some ho-
cramped conditions and dodgy food – about tels continue to hike prices while others just
some of these trips. raise rates on Friday and Saturday nights.

oAsia Outdoors ROCK CLIMBING We’re using the rates for low season, as
during busy periods many hotel owners
(%031-368 8450; www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn; No- tend to pick a price out of their heads de-
ble House, Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; half/full-day climb- pending on demand. Note that from May to
ing US$66/84; h8am-7.30pm) The pioneer of July, it’s definitely worth booking ahead.
climbing in Vietnam, Asia Outdoors is a
one-stop shop for adventurous travellers. 4 Cat Ba Town
Climbing is its real expertise, with fully
licensed and certified instructors leading If the seafront hotels in Cat Ba Town are full,
trips, but it also offers climbing and kayak- detour to Ð Nui Ngoc, which is lined with
ing packages with an overnight on its boat good-value accommodation.

117

Cat Ba Sea View HOTEL $ lection of cute bungalows (both private
(%031-388 8201; www.catbaseaviewhotel.com; and dorm options), backed by a cliff. The
220 Ɖ 1-4; r US$15, with sea view US$25; aW) spacious, thatch-roofed restaurant area is a
Neat-as-a-pin, light-coloured rooms are fur- great social spot for hanging out and meet-
ther spruced up by snazzy fake-flower decor. ing fellow travellers. It’s on the main road,
All are good-sized, though the seafront ones 3km from Cat Ba Town.
are by far the most spacious. Each floor has
a teensy communal balcony so you can take Note that the roadside sign outside says
in the harbour vistas without shelling out ‘Mountain View Hostel’.

extra for your room. Ancient House Homestay HOMESTAY $
(%0915 063 737, 0916 645 858; www.catba-
homestay.com; Ang Soi village; shared house per
Cat Ba Central Hostel HOSTEL $
(%0913 311 006; www.catbacentralhostel.com;
240 Ɖ 1-4; dm US$5; naW) Owner Kong is person US$15, private house per 2 people US$50; N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHlaoelreotpnhigne agBsaty V i e tn a m
W) Located around 3km from Cat Ba Town,
your host at this friendly hostel that’s fast down an unmarked alley in the village of
becoming the heart of Cat Ba’s backpacker Ang Soi, this heritage house was carefully
action. Beds in dorms (one 28-bed, one 14- moved here from the outskirts of Hanoi.
bed and two six-bed, including a female-only Antiques fill the high-ceilinged interior and
room) come with individual storage locker outside are well-tended gardens. It’s not set
and power point. up to receive independent travellers and is
best booked through Blue Swimmer.
Cat Ba Dream HOTEL $ Lunch and dinner set menus (US$10 per
(%031-388 8274; www.catbadream.com.vn; 226 Ð
1-4; r US$12, with sea view US$15; aW) Service person) are available on request.

may be a bit lacklustre, but Cat Ba Dream Whisper of Nature BUNGALOW $$
has smart, small rooms at the back, and (%031-265 7678; www.vietbungalow.com; Viet
larger sea-facing ones with killer views of Hai village; dm/d incl breakfast US$15/28; aW)
the bay (room 606 is the best). Whisper of Nature is a simple place for
nature lovers to kick back and enjoy some
Thu Ha HOTEL $ downtime. Little concrete-and-thatch bun-
(%031-388 8343; Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; r US$12-15;
aW) This small family-run place has basi- galows are set on the edge of the forest,
surrounded by trees and vegetable gardens.
cally furnished, clean rooms. Negotiate hard Getting here is an adventure in itself, with
for a front room and wake up to sea views.
the final stage a bicycle ride through lush
scenery. Ask about transport when you book.
Sea Pearl Hotel HOTEL $$
(%031-368 8567; www.seapearlcatbahotel.com.
vn; 219 Ɖ 1-4; r 730,000-1,030,000d; aW) Al- Cat Ba Eco Lodge RESORT $$
(%031-368 8966; www.catbaecolodge.com; Xuan
though we’d like to see the bathrooms be Dam village; s/d 735,000/945,000d; aiW)
refurbished at this price, the Sea Pearl is
a solid choice. Classically styled rooms are This small resort celebrates a wonderful-
ly quiet village location 12km from Cat Ba
decent-sized and comfortable, and staff are Town. Spacious wooden stilt-houses sit
professional and helpful.
around a breezy bar and restaurant, and
activities include riding bicycles to a beach
Hung Long Harbour Hotel HOTEL $$ 2km away, as well as trekking. It runs two
(%031-626 9269; www.hunglonghotel.vn; 268
Ɖ 1-4; d 1,575,000d; paW) At the quieter daily shuttles to/from Cat Ba Town (confirm
your pick-up when booking).
southeastern end of Cat Ba Town, the Hung
Long Harbour has very spacious rooms,
many with excellent views. Don’t bother up- Monkey Island Resort RESORT $$
(%04-3926 0572; www.monkeyislandresort.com;
grading to a superior room: the standards Cat Dua Island; d US$60-100; a) Although the
are the ones with balconies.
wood-and-thatch standard bungalows are
tiny for the asking price, the strip of beach
4 Cat Ba Island & Around here is truly lovely. There’s a nice social vibe,
with a nightly seafood buffet, a bar playing
Cat Ba Mountain View R&B beats, and kayaking and hiking ac-

Guesthouse BUNGALOW $ tivities offered. Free transfers from Cat Ba
(%031-368 8641; 452 Ɖ Ha Sen, Ang Soi village;
dm/d US$5/15) One step removed from the Town are provided.

hustle of town, this new hostel has a col-

118

Cat Ba Sandy Beach Resort RESORT $$ friendly spot opens early for goodies, such
(%0989 555 773; www.catbasandybeachresort. as pain au chocolat and almond pastries.
com; Nam Cat Island; d from US$45; a) This Pop in for a coffee, crème caramel or crois-
island’s prescription for relaxation includes sant before the bus-ferry-bus combo back to
simple wood-clad bungalows located under Hanoi.
looming limestone cliffs. Spend your days
swimming and kayaking, and kick back with Phuong Nhung VIETNAMESE $
seafood barbecues and beach bonfires after (184 Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; meals 45,000d; h7-10am)
dark. Free transfers from Ben Beo Harbour Bustling breakfast spot that’s a popular
provided. place for a hearty bowl of pho bo (beef noo-
dle soup) – just the thing you need before a
RESORT $$$ day of climbing or kayaking.
Cat Ba Beach Resort
(%031-388 8686; www.catbabeachresort.com;
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m HENaotlriotnnhgge aBsaty V i e tn a m Cat Co 2; bungalow from around US$80; aW) CT Mart SUPERMARKET $
Rimming the furthest sandy edge of Cat Co (18 Ð Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Town; h8am-8pm) Handy
2 beach, the dinky stone-and-thatch bunga- supermarket for stocking up before heading
lows of this resort sit within a manicured off trekking or for the boat trip back to the
lawn dotted with palm trees. Windsurfing mainland.

and a sauna are both on tap, and there’s a Green Mango INTERNATIONAL $$
breezy open-sided bar-restaurant with water (%031-388 7151; Ð 1-4,Cat BaTown; meals 110,000-
views. 220,000d; h8am-10pm; W) With a menu

Sunrise Resort RESORT $$$ traipsing from steaks to seafood and over to
(%031-388 7360; www.catbasunriseresort.com; Italy for pasta and pizza (with a small selec-
Cat Co 3; r from US$145; aiWs) This beach- tion of Asian dishes as well), Green Mango
front resort is tastefully planned, with low- is a great dinner choice, with friendly staff.
rise tiled-roofed blocks sitting below green It’s also a chilled-out spot for a glass of wine
cliffs. Rooms are spacious and smart (more or cocktail.

expensive rooms come with sea-view balco- Vien Duong VIETNAMESE $$
nies), and facilities include a swimming pool (12 Ð Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Town; meals from 120,000d;
and kiddies’ playground. h11am-11pm) One of the most popular of the

5 Eating seafood spots lining Ð Nui Ngoc, and often
heaving with Vietnamese tourists diving
For a cheap feed, head to the food stalls in into local crab, squid and steaming seafood
front of the market, or one block back from hotpots. Definitely not the place to come if
the waterfront on the cross street that links you’re looking for a quiet night.
the loop of Ð Nui Ngoc.
6 Drinking
Green Bamboo Forest VIETNAMESE $
(Ð 1-4; meals 50,000-150,000d; h7am-11pm; W) For cheap, local-style drinking, head to the
Friendly and well-run waterfront eatery that bia hoi stalls (Ɖ 1-4) near the entrance to the
also acts as a booking office for Blue Swim- fishing harbour.

mer. There’s some good seafood on offer and Rose Bar BAR
myriad rice and noodle dishes. The quieter
location is also a bonus. (15 Ɖ Nui Ngoc; hnoon-3am; W) With cheap
(US$2) cocktails, loads of happy-hour spe-
cials and shisha (water pipes), Rose Bar
Buddha Belly VEGETARIAN $ ticks all the boxes for backpacker fun a long
(Ɖ 1-4; meals 30,000-80,000d; h10am-9pm; v) way from home. It often stays open after
Right next to Cat Ba market, this bamboo-­ midnight in the busy season.
clad place serves up lots of vegetable and
tofu goodness, and doesn’t use any dairy or
eggs so is a top choice for vegans as well. Oasis Bar BAR
Its 30,000d daily-changing set menu is
excellent value. (Ɖ 1-4; hnoon-11pm; W) A pool table, smiley
staff and a location slap in the centre of the
seafront strip make Oasis a popular spot
to plonk yourself down for a beer or two.
Family Bakery BAKERY $ The menu is pretty decent if you’re feeling
(196 Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; pastries 10,000-15,000d, peckish.
sandwiches 30,000-40,000d; h7am-4pm) This

119

FEASTING AT THE FLOATING RESTAURANTS N o rth e rn Vi e tna m IHNnaoflrootrnhmgeaaBtsaitoynV i e tn a m

You can’t beat the ambience-factor for feasting on seafood at a floating restaurant, but a
few pointers will make sure your experience isn’t a washout.

¨¨There are numerous ‘floating’ seafood restaurants just offshore in Cat Ba Harbour,
but we’ve heard reports of overcharging so it’s essential to confirm the price of the food
in advance, as well as the cost of a boat to get you out there and back.

¨¨Locals advise heading around the bay to the floating restaurants in Ben Beo Harbour
instead. They’re less touristy and less likely to rip you off, but still check on the price of
food upfront. A boat ride there and back, including waiting time, should cost around
140,000d.

¨¨Hold off paying your boat fare until the return journey is completed, as we’ve also had
reports of diners being left stranded on the restaurants. Ask your hotel to recommend a
boat or catch a xe om (around 30,000d) over the hill to the harbour.

¨¨One recommended place at Ben Beo Pier is Quang Anh (% 031-388 8485; Ben Beo;
meals from around 200,000d). Choose your dinner from the floating pens and it will
be grilled, fried or steamed for your table in no time. Prices go by weight and type of
seafood; you can eat your fill of a selection of fish for around 200,000d per person. Just
make sure you establish the estimated price before you eat.

Flightless Bird Café BAR HAIPHONG
A fast hyrdofoil departs Haiphong’s Ben Binh
(%031-388 8517; Ð 1-4; hnoon-11pm; W) Dis- Harbour at 7am, 9am, 1pm and 3pm, and goes
cover your inner Kiwi at this friendly bar straight to Cat Ba Town Pier (220,000d, one
decorated with New Zealand memorabilia. hour). Haiphong-bound hydrofoils depart Cat Ba
For those who always need to multitask, you Town Pier at 8am, 10am, 2pm and 4pm.
can also get your nails painted while you
drink, with well-priced massage and mani- HALONG CITY
cure services on offer. Ferries from Halong City’s Tuan Chau Ferry Pier
terminate at Cat Ba Island’s Gia Luan Harbour on
Good Bar BAR the north side of the island, which means you’re
still 40km from Cat Ba Town. The local QH Green
(Noble House, Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; hnoon-late) bus between Gia Luan and Cat Ba Town is the
This upper-floor bar has a real vibe and only public transport linking the two.
goes on until late most nights. It comes fully
equipped with pool tables and terrific har- For years this ferry route was blighted by a taxi
bour views. mini-mafia at Gia Luan Harbour who did their
best to make sure you couldn’t catch this bus,
88 Information but a recent crackdown on the culprits has made
it more doable.
Most accommodation and restaurants offer wi-fi
access. Due to frequent ferry schedule changes along
this route, the Haiphong ferry remains the easier
For tourist information, the best impartial alternative for foot passengers. If you’re travel-
advice is at Asia Outdoors. Cat Ba Ventures is ling by motorbike, this is a great option too.
also very helpful. Both companies have websites
with local information. The car ferry from Halong City’s Tuan Chau
Agribank (Ɖ Nui Ngoc; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, Ferry Pier leaves for Cat Ba Island’s Gia Luan Har-
8-11.30am Sat) bour at 8am and 3pm throughout the year (per
person/motorbike 70,000/10,000d, one hour),
88 Getting There & Away with the number of daily sailings rising to hourly
in busy periods. From Gia Luan, throughout the
Cat Ba Island is 45km east of Haiphong and year, the QH Green bus departs for Cat Ba Town
50km south of Halong City. Various boat and bus at 9am and 4pm (20,000d, 30 minutes). If the
combinations make the journey from Hanoi, or ferry is late, the bus waits for the boat to arrive.
there are ferries from Haiphong and Halong City. From approximately May to September there are
extra bus services at 1pm and 5pm.

120 N o rth e rn Vi e tna m GNB aeotirtTtiuhneLgaoAsnrtgoVBui aenytdn a m northeast of Halong Bay is part of Bai Tu
From Gia Luan Harbour to Halong City’s Tuan Long National Park (admission 100,000d).

Chau Ferry Pier, car ferries leave at 9am and Bai Tu Long Bay is every bit as beautiful
4pm. Catch the 7.40am or 3pm QH Green bus as its famous neighbour. In some ways it’s
from Cat Ba Town to connect with the boat. actually more stunning, since it’s only in its
Again, the ferry timetable from Gia Luan is initial stages as a destination for travellers.
beefed up according to demand and there are Improved boat transport to the scattering of
usually hourly sailings from late May to early resorts here means the area is quickly grow-
August. ing in popularity with domestic tourists, but
the bay and its islands are still unpolluted
HANOI and relatively undeveloped. For Western
Hoang Long Bus Company (% 031-268 8008; travellers, it’s a laid-back alternative to the
Ɖ 1-4; tickets 250,000d) Departing from Hanoi’s touristy bustle of Halong Bay.
Luong Yen bus station, Hoang Long operates an
efficient bus-boat-bus combo to Cat Ba Town. A As with Halong Bay, the best way to expe-
bus takes you to Haiphong, followed by a mini­ rience the full gamut of limestone pinnacles
bus to nearby Dinh Vu port, then a 40-m­ inute scattered along the seascape is by cruise. Ha-
ferry to Cai Vieng Harbour (also known as Phu noi travel agencies, including Ethnic Travel
Long) on Cat Ba Island. From there, another (p88), run boat trips into the Bai Tu Long
minibus whisks passengers to Cat Ba Town. area. Charter boats can also be arranged
to Bai Tu Long Bay from Halong City’s Bai
Between May and September buses depart Chay Tourist Wharf; rates start at around
Hanoi at 5.20am, 7.20am, 11.20am and 1.20pm, 300,000d per hour and the trip there takes
and return from Cat Ba Town at 7.15am, 9.15am, about five hours.
1.15pm and 3.15pm. From October to April buses
leave Hanoi at 7.20am and 11.20am, and depart To experience a slice of slow island life,
Cat Ba Town at 9.15am and 1.15pm. independent travellers can head to Quan
Lan Island.
If you’re travelling from Hanoi, this is the most
hassle-free way. Van Don Island

88 Getting Around Van Don is the largest (around 30 sq km),
most populated and most developed island
A xe om from Cat Ba Town to Cat Co 2 beach in the Bai Tu Long archipelago. Now linked
or Ben Beo Harbour is around 10,000d, and in to the mainland by a series of bridges, it has
summer a tourist train (basically oversized golf a few places to stay, but you won’t want to
carts) whizz between Cat Ba Town and Cat Co 1 linger. It’s chiefly useful as the jumping-off
and 2 (10,000d per person). point to other islands.

BICYCLE & MOTORBIKE Bai Dai (Long Beach) runs along much
Bicycle and motorbike rentals are available from of the island’s southern side and has hard-
most Cat Ba hotels (both around US$5 per day). packed sand with some mangroves. Just
If you’re heading out to the beaches or national offshore there are stunning limestone rock
park, pay the parking fee for security. formations.

BUS Van Don’s main town is scruffy Cai Rong
Cat Ba’s public QH Green Bus (20,000d) trun- (pronounced Cai Zong), about 8km north of
dles between Cat Ba Harbour and Gia Luan the bridge to the mainland. It’s a bustling
Harbour in the north of the island, passing the place full of karaoke bars and motorbikes.
national park headquarters en route. Here, Cai Rong Pier (Cai Rong Pha) is the
key port for boats to other Bai Tu Long is-
From Cat Ba Town, throughout the year, ser- lands. If you’re forced to overnight before
vices leave at 7.40am and 3pm with an 11am and catching a morning ferry, there are a couple
1pm service added from approximately May to of decent hotels.
September. During the peak holiday period of
June to July, more departures are sometimes Hung Toan Hotel (%033-387 4220; r
added. 250,000d; a) is good value, while Viet Linh
Hotel (%033-379 3898; r 400,000d; a) is fan-
Bai Tu Long Bay cier. Both are around 300m north of the pier.
Just opposite the Viet Linh Hotel is a simple,
% 033 unnamed restaurant that does great seafood
and pork dishes – try the pork with ginger,
There’s way more to northeast Vietnam chilli and lemongrass.
than Halong Bay. The sinking limestone
plateau, which gave birth to the bay’s spec-
tacular i­slands, continues for some 100km
to the Chinese border. The area immediately

4 Sleeping 121

Buses run every 30 minutes between Bai Ngan Ha Hotel HOTEL $
Chay bus station (Halong City) and Cai Rong (%033-387 7296; Quan Lan Town; r 350,000d;
(35,000d, 1¾ hours). From the Cai Rong bus aW) This corner-front establishment in
stop catch a xe om for the three-minute trip the heart of town has redecorated rooms
to the pier. and a good restaurant dishing up lots of lo-
cal seafood, downstairs. It rents bikes and
To head north from Cai Rong, take the motorbikes.
Bai Chay–bound bus to the Cua Ong turn-
off, where buses to Mong Cai and Lang Son
pick up passengers.

Ann Hotel HOTEL $$
(%033-387 7889; www.annhotel.com.vn; Quan Lan
Quan Lan Island Town; d US$22-31; aW) The Ann Hotel offers

If you want to slide right off the typical trav- spacious rooms with gleaming bathrooms. N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SBNiaogirhTttuhseLaosntg VBi ae ytn a m
eller trail, Quan Lan Island ticks the boxes. The more expensive rooms at the back have
The island’s only real hub is the sleepy three- balconies with great ocean views.
street settlement of Quan Lan Town, sepa-
rated from the sea by a hem of mangroves. A Minh Chau Resort RESORT $$$
handful of simple guesthouses, restaurants (%0904 081 868; www.minhchauresort.vn; Minh
and places to rent bicycles (US$4 per day) Chau; r from US$80; aWs) The flashest ac-
and motorbikes (US$6 per day) line the commodation on Quan Lan Island is this
main street. Out of town, Minh Chau beach resort upon the white sands of Minh Chau
is the island’s main attraction with the tiny beach. Light-filled rooms have lots of beachy
settlement of Minh Chau just a short hop appeal, there’s a good restaurant and a
from the sand. tempting pool. Outside of peak season (June
to July) you can often find excellent value
Apart from hanging out on Minh Chau’s packages.
sand and tootling around this slender is-
land by bicycle or motorbike, there really 5 Eating & Drinking
is very little to do, which is its very charm
if that’s what you’re looking for. There’s no Tuan Thuy Restaurant VIETNAMESE $
ATM on Quan Lan Island, so come armed (Quan Lan Town; meals from about 100,000d;
with cash. h8am-8pm) A decent selection of all the

1 Sights ­usual noodle and rice dishes is available
at this simple family-run outfit, which also
rents out bikes. It’s on Quan Lan Town’s
Minh Chau Beach BEACH main street.

The beautiful 1km-long crescent-moon
sweep of Minh Chau beach, located on the
northeastern coast, is Quan Lan Island’s Cafe Mu CAFE

big drawcard. The water is clear blue and (Quan Lan Town; h9am-9pm) This little cafe
has friendly owners and serves up the best
the waves are suitable for surfing. Water- Vietnamese coffee and fresh fruit juices
sports action includes kayaks for hire, and
there are lots of cheap eateries for beer and in town. It’s directly opposite Tuan Thuy
­Restaurant.
seafood. Note that most of Minh Chau’s
beachfront restaurants are only open from
May to October, and that June and July are 88 Getting There & Away

more expensive with the influx of domestic CAI RONG
tourists. Boats from Cai Rong dock at two places: the
There are several other blissful beaches Quan Lan Pier, 3km from the main township on
on the eastern seaboard. the island’s southern tip, and near Minh Chau
Beach, on the island’s northeastern coast.
Quan Lan Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Fast boats to Minh Chau (120,000d, 45
The only attraction within Quan Lan Town minutes) depart Cai Rong at 7.30am and 1pm.
itself is this beautiful 200-year-old pagoda. Returning to Cai Rong, boat schedules change
frequently so check locally.
Van Don Ruins HISTORIC SITE
Fast boats to Quan Lan Pier (150,000d, 1½
The northeastern part of the island has hours) depart Cai Rong at 7.30am and 1.30pm. A
some battered ruins of the old Van Don slower wooden boat (50,000d, 2½ hours) de-
Trading Port. parts Cai Rong to Quan Lan Pier at 7am and 1pm.
From Qan Lan Pier fast boats make the return

122

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NGMeootrnttgihnCegaaiAs&rt otVuhi enetdCnhaimn e s e B o rd e r journey to Cai Rong at 7am and 1pm, with the basic beach huts (r 200,000d). Bring along
slow boat also leaving at 1pm. your own food. Daily boats link Cai Rong
to Ngoc Vung (60,000d, 2½ hours, 7am and
HALONG CITY 1.30pm).
An alternative route to Quan Lan Pier is from the
Hon Gai ferry terminal, across the suspension Co To Island
bridge from Halong City. A speedboat leaves at
2pm (160,000d, 1½ hours). In the northeast, Co To Island is the fur-
thest inhabited island from the mainland.
From Quan Lan Pier the speedboat makes the Its highest peak reaches a respectable 170m.
return journey to Hon Gai ferry terminal at 7am. There are numerous other hills, and a large
lighthouse. The coastline is mostly cliffs and
88 Getting Around large rocks, but there’s at least one sandy
beach.
Most of Quan Lan is pretty flat, but it’s a surpris-
ingly large island, and if you’re staying in Quan Unfortunately, due to the military pres-
Lan Town you’ll definitely need some kind of ence on Co To, non-Vietnamese travellers
transport to get to the beach. require a permit to visit, which must be
procured before travel. Independent travel-
There are many bicycles (US$4 per day) and mo- lers should be able to contact a hotel on the
torbikes (US$6 per day) for hire in Quan Lan Town. island, or one of the bigger travel agencies in
Hanoi, to help issue the permit.
Quan Lan still uses xe Lam (three-wheeled mo-
torised vehicles) for transport. Xe Lam drivers There are a couple of small hotels and
whiz between Qan Lan Pier and Quan Lan Town guesthouses on Co To, including the friendly
(20,000d) and can also be hired to do tours of Coto Lodge Hotel (%0904 701 661; www.coto.
the island. vn; Coto Town; d incl breakfast 500,000d; aiW),
with a great attached restaurant and friend-
Tra Ban & Dao Ngoc Vung ly staff that can arrange island tours.
Islands
A fast speedboat departs Cai Rong Pier
One of Bai Tu Long’s largest islands, Tra daily at 1pm (155,000d, 1½ hours), with an
Ban offers some of the bay’s most dramat- extra morning departure on Saturdays at
ic karsts. The southern part is blanketed 6am.
in thick jungle and provides a habitat for
many colourful butterflies. Boats leave Slow ferries bound for Co To depart Cai
from Van Don’s Cai Rong Pier at 7am and Rong Pier at 7am daily (70,000d, three
2pm (40,000d, one hour). There’s no ac- hours).
commodation, so check on times for return
boats. Mong Cai & the Chinese
Border
Dao Ngoc Vung borders Halong Bay
and has some dramatic limestone cliffs and
a great beach on its southern shore with

GETTING TO CHINA: Huge industrial zones are rising around
MONG CAI TO DONGXING Mong Cai city with plots being snapped up
by Chinese and foreign corporations. Else-
Getting to the border Rarely used by where in this border region, travellers’ high-
travellers, the Chinese border at the lights include the stunning karst scenery
Mong Cai/Dongxing border cross- around Cao Bang, historical caves and the
ing is around 3km from the Mong Cai thundering Ban Gioc Waterfall.
bus station; around 20,000d on a xe om
or 40,000d in a taxi. Mong Cai

At the border The border is open daily % 033 / POP 103,000
between 7am and 10pm Vietnam time.
Note that China is one hour ahead of A bustling border city, Mong Cai thrives on
Vietnam. You’ll need to have a pre­ trade with China. For the Vietnamese, the
arranged visa for China. big draw is the chance to purchase low-
priced (and low-quality) Chinese-made con-
Moving on Across the border in Dongx- sumer goods. For the Chinese, the attraction
ing, frequent buses run to Nanning in is two huge casinos and new golf courses.
China’s Guangxi province. But other than as a border crossing, Mong
Cai holds no interest for tourists.

4 Sleeping & Eating 123

There are plenty of food stalls on P Hung a lively jumble of squawking chickens, fresh
Vuong, including several good spots near the produce and grilled meat stalls.
Nam Phong Hotel.
The area is populated largely by Tho,
Nam Phong Hotel HOTEL $ Nung, Man and Dzao tribal people, though
(%033-388 7775; P Hung Vuong; r 385,000- their influence is not evident in the city.
450,000d; aW) Spacious, well-equipped Lang Son was partially destroyed in Febru-
rooms come with satellite TV and surpris- ary 1979 by Chinese forces, and the ruins
ingly powerful wi-fi. There’s a restaurant of the town and the devastated frontier vil-
downstairs serving good Chinese and Viet- lage of Dong Dang were shown to foreign
namese dishes. journalists as evidence of Chinese aggres-
sion. Although the border is still heavily N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNMlooernetgphiCneaagis&&t EtVahi eteti nCnghaimn e s e B o rd e r
Nha Nghi Thanh Tam GUESTHOUSE $ fortified, both towns have been rebuilt
(%033-388 1373; 71 Ð Trieu Duong; r 280,000d; and Sino–V­ ietnamese trade is in full swing
a) Among similar options on this street, again.
this is a solid budget choice with comfort-
able rooms. Ð Trieu Duong runs south from 1 Sights
Ð Tran Phu, two blocks before Mong Cai’s
main market. Lang Son’s caves are around 1200m from the
central city. Both are illuminated and have
Buddhist altars inside.

88 Getting There & Away Tam Thanh Cave CAVE

Mong Cai is located 340km from Hanoi. (combined admission with Nhi Thanh Cave 5000d;
The bus station (Hwy 18) is about 3km from h6am-6pm) Tam Thanh Cave is vast and se-
ductive. There’s an internal pool and natural
the border. To Hanoi there are frequent services ‘window’ offering a sweeping view of the
until 1pm (230,000d, eight hours); to Halong surrounding rice fields. A few hundred me-
City buses leave every 30 minutes until around tres up a stone staircase are the ruins of the
6pm (100,000d, four hours); and to Lang Son Mac Dynasty Citadel. It’s a lovely, deserted
there are buses at 8.30am, 9.30am, 10.30am spot, with stunning rural views.
and 12.30pm (110,000d, 5½ hours).
Nhi Thanh Cave CAVE

Lang Son (combined admission with Tam Thanh Cave 5000d;
h6am-6pm) The Ngoc Tuyen River flows
% 025 / POP 148,000 through Nhi Thanh Cave, 700m beyond
Tam Thanh Cave. The entrance has a se-
Lang Son is a booming city set next to ries of carved poems written by the cave’s
tranquil Phai Loan Lake and surrounded 18th-century discoverer, a soldier called Ngo
by green karst peaks. Most travellers pull Thi San. There’s also a carved stone plaque
through town on their way to or from China commemorating an early French resident of
(the border is 18km north, just outside Dong Lang Son, complete with his silhouette in
Dang). If you need to spend the night, there European clothing.
are two interesting caves nearby and Lang
Son’s sprawl of market streets – which ra-
diate outwards from the night market – are

GETTING TO CHINA: LANG SON TO NANNING

Getting to the border The Friendship Pass at the Dong Dang/Pingxiang border
crossing is the most popular crossing in the far north. The border post itself is at Huu
Nghi Quan (Friendship Pass), 3km north of Dong Dang town. Frequent minibuses trav-
el between Lang Son and Dong Dang. From Dong Dang a xe om to Huu Nghi Quan is
around 30,000d and a taxi around 60,000d. From Lang Son count on about 140,000d
for a taxi and 70,000d for a xe om.

At the border The border is open from 7am to 7pm daily Vietnam time. Note that China
is one hour ahead of Vietnam. To cross 500m to the Chinese side you’ll need to catch
one of the electric cars (10,000d). You’ll also need a prearranged visa for China.

Moving on On the Chinese side, it’s a 20-minute drive to Pingxiang by bus or shared taxi.
Pingxiang is connected by train and bus to Nanning (three hours).

124

Lang Son Market MARKET northern bus terminal around 3km north of the
town centre.
(h6am-6pm) Lang Son’s market area sprawls
over about three blocks, just off P Tran Dang TRAIN
Ninh. It’s a colourful and hectic place stuffed There are only very slow trains between Lang
to the brim with hawkers and stalls selling Son and Hanoi (100,000d, 5½ hours).
produce, and plentiful food stalls.

4 Sleeping & Eating Cao Bang

Van Xuan Hotel HOTEL $ % 026 / POP 51,386
(%025-371 0440; [email protected].
vn; 147 P Tran Dang Ninh; r 360,000-500,000d; Mountainous Cao Bang province is one of
aiW) By far the best place to bed down the most beautiful regions in Vietnam. Cao
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNMlooernetgphiCneaagis&&t EtVahi eteti nCnghaimn e s e B o rd e r in Lang Son, the Van Xuan has friendly, Bang itself is more prosaic, but it is a useful
English-speaking staff and neat rooms that base to explore the surrounding country-
lead out to a communal balcony overlooking side. The climate is mild here, and winter
the eastern edge of the lake. It’s around 50m days can get chilly when a thick fog clings to
the banks of the Bang Giang River.

from Lang Son’s market. 1 Sights

Hoa Binh Hotel HOTEL $ War Memorial MONUMENT
(%025-870 807; 127 Ð Thanh Tam; r 280,000d;
aW) A reliable cheapie close to the Lang There’s not a whole load to do in Cao Bang
town itself, but there are great 360-degree
Son market, with cane furniture, spacious views from the town’s hill-summit war me-
rooms and clean bathrooms.
morial. Head up the second lane off Ð Pac
Bo, go under the entrance to a primary
oThanh Lan Com Binh Dan VIETNAMESE $ school and you’ll see the steps leading up
the hill.
(Tran Quoc Tran; meals 50,000-70,000d; h11am-
10pm) One block south of the market, the de- 4 Sleeping
lightful Miss Lan serves around 20 different
dishes for lunch and dinner. It’s a point-and- Thanh Loan Hotel HOTEL $
pick affair – all seasonal and all local. (%026-385 7026; [email protected];

New Dynasty Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ 131 P Vuon Cam; d/tr incl breakfast 400,000/
(%025-389 8000; Phai Loan Lake; hotpots
150,000d; hnoon-11pm) This bar-restaurant 550,000d; aW) This spotless place features
wood panelling in abundance and spacious
juts out into the lake. Everyone is here for rooms with high ceilings, dark-wood furni-
the hotpots, but there’s also a draught-beer
emporium. ture and bathrooms with tubs.

Duc Trung Hotel HOTEL $$
88 Information (%026-385 3424; www.ductrunghotel.com.vn; 85
P Be Van Dan; d 520,000-630,000d) A solid op-
Vietin Bank (51 Ð Le Loi; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, tion with business-bland-style rooms just
8am-11.30am Sat ) has an ATM and changes a short walk from Cao Bang’s main drag.
money; the post office (Ð Le Loi; h7am-6pm There are good banh mi (filled baguettes)
Mon-Fri) is adjacent. Both are around 300m from and pho stalls just across the road.
the lake on the road heading east towards Mong
Cai. There are ATMs along P Tran Dang Ninh. 5 Eating & Drinking

88 Getting There & Away You’ll find cheap food stalls around the
night market (P Vuon Cam; meals from 15,000d;
BUS h 5-11pm).
Buses to Hanoi (90,000d, three hours, frequent
until 6pm) leave from the bus station on Ð Le Men Quyen Restaurant VIETNAMESE $
Loi, around 500m east of the post office. From (%026-385 6433; Ɖ Kim Dong; meals 45,000-
the Vietin Bank and post office, turn right into P 70,000d) Tucked away behind the market,
Tran Dang Ninh, and continue for 200m to the this modest place has a buffet-style set-up –
market, hotels and restaurants. just point to the dishes you want. Be sure to
try the delicious cha la lot (cabbage rolls).
Buses to Mong Cai (100,000d, 5½ hours,
7.30am, 9.30am and 11.30am) and Cao Bang
(85,000d, four hours, five departures between
5.15am and 1.45pm) leave from a separate

125

Cao Bang e# 0 200 m ing the street, does some of the best Viet-
A 0 0.1 miles namese coffee in town.
B

66#›
P Vuon 3 88 Information
ÿ##ú6
Cam Bus There are a couple of internet cafes on P Xuan
Station 1 Truong and P Vuon Cam.
1 TPrXuounagnð# ì# ú# Bang
5 Giang
Bridge Bank for Foreign Investment & Development
(Ɖ Kim Dong; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am
66DÐinHhoGaianngg #ì Sat, ATM 24hr)
4Ð Hoang Nhu Steps 1
#ú á# 88 Getting There & Away

Cao Bang is 272km north of Hanoi, along Hwy
Ð Kim Dong N o rth e rn Vi e tna m IMNnoofrnotgrhmCeaaatisi&to ntVhi eetCnhaimn e s e B o rd e r3. It’s a fully sealed road, but a full day’s drive
iang River 2 through mountainous terrain.
2 Ðÿ#N2Dguuyenü#7 Ð Pac Bo Bus schedules at Cao Bang bus station (Ð
G
666A Pac Bo) have a tendency to change frequently
Bang so check times the day before if possible. In
particular, the direct bus to Ban Gioc Waterfall
B

Cao Bang doesn’t always run outside of the summer
months.

æ Sights If you’re travelling to Ba Be Lakes (p103), the
1 War Memorial ......................................B2 direct bus to Cho Ra is a good option, but from
Cho Ra you’ll need to hire a xe om for the final
ÿ Sleeping stretch into the national park.
2 Duc Trung Hotel...................................A2
3 Thanh Loan Hotel ................................ A1 If you are endeavouring to venture into the
mountainous Ha Giang region from the east,
ú Eating note that there is no public transport between
4 Men Quyen Restaurant .......................A2 Bao Lac and Meo Vac. You would have to rustle
5 Night Market ........................................ A1 up a local driver in Bao Lac to continue.
6 Thu Ngan .............................................. A1
Hang Pac Bo (Water-Wheel Cave)
û Drinking & Nightlife
7 Cafe 88 .................................................A2 Hang Pac Bo HISTORIC SITE

(Water-Wheel Cave) After 30 years of exile, Ho
Chi Minh re-entered Vietnam in January
1941 and took shelter in this small cave in
Thu Ngan VIETNAMESE $ one of the most remote regions of Vietnam,
(21 P Vuon Cam; meals 40,000-60,000d; h8am- 3km from the Chinese border. The cave and
9pm) Good-value local diner owned by a surrounding area are sacred ground for Vi-
friendly family. etnamese revolutionaries – this is the base

Cafe 88 CAFE from which Ho launched the revolution he’d
(cnr Ɖ Kim Dong & Ɖ Nguyen Du; h9am-10pm) long been planning.
This simple cafe, with a raised terrace front-

BUSES FROM CAO BANG

DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY
75,000 2½ 7.30am, 9am
Ban Gioc Waterfall
(direct) 100,000 4 1pm, 2pm
90,000 5 noon
Bao Lac
150,000 7 12 daily 6am-5pm
Cho Ra (Ba Be 80,000 3 4 daily 7am-2pm
National Park) 70,000 2 12 daily 7am-4pm

Hanoi

Lang Son

Trung Khanh (for
Ban Gioc Waterfall)

126

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m GNMeootrnttgihnCegaaiTs&ht etVrhieet&CnAhawimnaeys e B o rd e r HEADING TO THE MINORITY MARKETS

In the province of Cao Bang, Kinh (ethnic Vietnamese) are a distinct minority. The largest
ethnic groups are the Tay (46%), Nung (32%), Hmong (8%), Dzao (7%) and Lolo (1%).
Intermarriage and mass education are gradually eroding tribal and cultural distinctions.
Check out Tim Doling’s Mountains and Ethnic Minorities: North East Vietnam for de-
tailed accounts of tribal people in the region. It’s available from the Vietnam Museum of
Ethnology and bookshops in Hanoi.

Most of Cao Bang’s minorities remain blissfully unaware about the ways of the outside
world. Cheating in the marketplace, for example, is virtually unknown and even tourists
are charged the same price as locals without bargaining. Whether or not this innocence
can withstand the onslaught of even limited tourism remains to be seen. The following
big markets in Cao Bang province are held every five days, according to lunar calendar
dates. The Na Giang market, which attracts Tay, Nung and Hmong people, is one of the
best and busiest in the provinces.

Nuoc Hai 1st, 6th, 11th, 16th, 21st and 26th day of each lunar month.

Na Giang 1st, 6th, 11th, 16th, 21st and 26th day of each lunar month.

Tra Linh 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th and 29th day of each lunar month.

Trung Khanh 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th and 30th day of each lunar month.

Hang Pac Bo is 58km northwest of Cao ‘dead-letter box’, where he would leave and
Bang. For a return half-day trip by xe om, pick up messages.
expect to pay around 200,000d.
No permits are currently needed to visit
Even if you have little interest in the this area, despite the proximity to the Chi-
history of Vietnamese communism, the nese border.
cave is in a beautiful location surrounded
by evergreen forests filled with butterflies Ban Gioc Waterfall & Nguom
and birdsong, and overlooked by limestone Ngao Cave
mountains.
Ban Gioc Waterfall is one of Vietnam’s best-
Ho Chi Minh lived in the cave for a few known waterfalls, and its image adorns the
weeks in 1941, writing poetry and translat- lobby of many a cheap guesthouse. The falls,
ing key texts by the fathers of socialism. He fed by the Quay Son River that marks the
stuck close to China so that he would be able border with China, are an impressive sight
to flee across the border if French soldiers and in a highly scenic location.
discovered his hiding place. Ho named the
stream in front of his cave Lenin Creek and Boat owners here will punt you on bam-
the jungle-clad mountain that overlooks this boo rafts (100,000d) close enough to the
stream Karl Marx Peak. waterfall so you can feel the spray on your
hair (bring shampoo!) and skin. Rafts on the
There’s a modest Uncle Ho Museum Vietnamese side have green canopies, and
(admission 20,000d; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm on the Chinese side canopies are blue. You’re
Wed-Sun) at the entrance to the Pac Bo area. allowed to swim in the large natural pool on
About 2km beyond this is a parking area. the Vietnamese side, but not in the river or
The cave is a 10-minute walk away along a close to the main waterfall.
shady stone path that follows the riverbank.
You can step inside the mouth of the small It’s a picturesque 10-minute stroll
cave, but not enter. The path then loops past through rice paddies to reach the base of the
various other points of interest, including a falls from the parking area. If you’re here at
rock table that Ho is said to have used as a harvest time in September or October, the
kind of jungle office for his translations and farmers may encourage you to try out their
writing. pedal-powered threshing machines.

In a patch of forest about a 15-minute A police permit (200,000d for up to 10
walk in the opposite direction is a jungle people) is required to visit this region but
hut, another of Ho’s hideouts. On the way the permit can be purchased at the police
to the hut is a rock outcrop used as a

127

station here beside the waterfall. You’ll need NORTHWEST VIETNAM
to show your passport.
History
There are snack and drink stalls by the
cave and waterfall, but the nearest accom- The history of the northwest differs to low-
modation is in Cao Bang. land Vietnam. The Vietnamese traditionally
avoided mountains, believing the terrain was
1 Sights not suitable for large-scale rice production.
For many centuries the area remained inhab-
Ban Gioc Waterfall WATERFALL ited by scatterings of minority people, joined
in the 19th century by migrants from Yun-
(admission 15,000d; h7.30am-5pm) Ban Gioc is nan, China and Tibet. This was the ‘badlands’,
the largest waterfall in the country, though a buffer zone of bandits between China and
not the highest. Its vertical drop is only Vietnam. During Ho Chi Minh’s leadership,
around 30m, but it has an impressive 300m the North Vietnamese experimented with
span; one side of the falls is in China, the limited autonomy in ‘special zones’, but these N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHiogarhttBhsi nwhe st V i e tn a m
other is in Vietnam. Water volume varies were abolished after reunification.
considerably between the dry and rainy sea-
sons, and the sight is most impressive from Life for the minorities has always been
May to September. difficult. Their most profitable crop was opi-
um, but the authorities have clamped down
Nguom Ngao Cave CAVE and very little is now produced. Educational
opportunities were limited, but new schools
(admission incl guide 30,000d; h7.30am-4.30pm) in remote areas now provide most children
About 4km from Ban Gioc Waterfall, Nguom with education. Economic prospects remain
Ngao Cave is one of the most spectacular limited, so many highlanders move to cities
cave systems in Vietnam. Created by an in search of work.
underground river, it extends for several
kilometres underground; villagers sheltered 88 Getting There & Away
here during the 1979 war with China. Visi-
tors are permitted in one section, where a The main airport is at Dien Bien Phu, but most
1km-long concrete path and excellent light- travellers take the train from Hanoi to Lao Cai,
ing have been installed. the gateway to Sapa. On a public bus, the moun-
A guide (no English) accompanies you on tain roads can be unforgiving. Consider renting a
an hour-long cave tour, past huge stalagmite private 4WD and driver, or riding a motorbike.
and stalactite outcrops and through a vast
100m chamber. To undertake the northwest loop, most trav-
The 10-minute walk from the parking lot ellers head for Mai Chau, then Son La and Dien
to the cave is also very beautiful, threading Bien Phu. Continue north to Sapa and back to
through the limestone hills that character- Hanoi. Allow a week for this journey, and more
ise Cao Bang province, past fields of soya time if using local buses.
beans.
A second, even bigger branch of the cave Travellers can cross from Laos into Vietnam
system is said to extend almost all the way at the Tay Tran–Sop Hun border crossing, 34km
back to Ban Gioc Waterfall, though there’s from Dien Bien Phu.
currently no visitor access to this section.
Hoa Binh
88 Getting There & Away
% 0218 / POP 112,000
The journey to the falls and cave is absolutely
stunning; the road follows a beautiful river A handy pit stop en route to Mai Chau, Hoa
valley and weaves through soaring karst peaks Binh means ‘peace’ and this easygoing town
for much of the trip. It’s an 87km journey is a relief after the traffic-plagued suburbs of
along a decent paved road, and takes about Hanoi. The area is home to many hill-tribe
2½ hours. people, including the Hmong and Thai.

Buses (70,000d, two hours, 12 daily) connect 1 Sights
Cao Bang with Trung Khanh, 27km short of the
falls. Negotiate for a xe om in Trung Khanh to Muong Cultural Museum CULTURAL CENTRE
take you onward, which should come to around (Khong Gian Van Hoa Muong; %0913 553 937;
200,000d, including a two-hour wait. Another www.muong.vn; 202 Tay Tien; admission 50,000d;
option is the direct bus (75,000d, 2½ hours) h7.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) Founded by Hanoi
departing Cao Bang at 7.30am and 9am. artist Vu Duc Hieu, this establishment show-
cases the culture of the local Muong ethnic

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NSHloearetBphi nwhge s&t EVaiteitnnga m128

THE HIGH ROADS ON TWO WHEELS

With spectacular scenery and relatively minimal traffic, more travellers are choosing to
motorcycle around the northwest loop from Hanoi up to Lao Cai, over to Dien Bien Phu
and back to the capital. For the more intrepid, the roads venturing north towards China
into the spectacular provinces of Ha Giang and Cao Bang are the newest frontier for
travel in Vietnam.

Hanoi is the place to start making arrangements. Consider joining a tour or hiring a
guide who knows the roads and can help with mechanical and linguistic difficulties. Be
sure to get acquainted with your bike first and check current road conditions and routes.

Most motorbikes in Vietnam are small capacity (under 250cc). For years the sturdy
Minsk was the bike of choice for travellers. Today numbers have dwindled, as mopeds
and Chinese off-road bikes have proliferated. Honda road bikes (such as the Honda GL
160) and trail bikes are other good choices. These bikes have a good reputation for relia-
bility and have decent shock absorbers.

Rental agencies will provide checklists, but essentials include a good helmet, a local
SIM card in your mobile phone for emergencies, rain gear, a spare parts and repair kit
(including spark plugs, spanners, inner tube and tyre levers), air pump and decent maps.
Knee and elbow pads and gloves are also a good idea.

Highways can be hell in Vietnam, so let the train take the strain on the long route north
to Lao Cai. Load your bike into a goods carriage while you sleep in a berth. You’ll have to
(almost) drain your bike of petrol.

Take it slowly, particularly in the rain: smooth paved roads can turn into muddy tracks
in no time. Do not ride during or immediately after heavy rainstorms as this is when land-
slides might occur; many mountain roads are quite new and the cliff embankments can
be unstable. Expect to average about 35km/h. Only use safe hotel parking. Fill up from
petrol stations where the petrol is less likely to have been watered down.

If running short on time or energy, remember that many bus companies will let you put
your bike on the roof of a bus, but get permission first from your bike-rental company.

Recommended specialists in Hanoi include Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure (p88) and
Offroad Vietnam (p92).

minority and the quirky art and sculpture Museum MUSEUM
of the owner. Unfortunately, a fire in 2013
destroyed the building holding the collec- (h8-10.30am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) F A small
tion of Muong artefacts, but the sprawling museum showcases war memorabilia, in-
five-hectare complex is worth visiting for the cluding an old French amphibious vehicle.
relaxed vibe and beautiful surroundings. It’s on Hwy 6, after the turn-off to Cu Chinh
Lan.
A xe om from Hoa Binh to the museum is
around 50,000d and a taxi around 100,000d. 4 Sleeping & Eating

There’s also shared accommodation here You’ll find com pho (rice-noodle soup) plac-
in simple stilt houses, and treks with local es lining Hwy 6.
Muong ethnic minority guides can be ar-
ranged (300,000d). Phu Gia Hotel HOTEL $
(%0218-625 5999; www.phugiahotel.com.vn; Ɖ
Le Thanh Tong; r 350,000-400,000d; aW) Your
Hoa Binh Dam LANDMARK

(Ɖ Hoa Binh; dam tunnel admission 30,000d; h8- best bet in Hoa Binh is this shiny new hotel
11am & 2-5pm) To view the huge dam wall of
Hoa Binh’s Russian-built hydroelectric sta- just over Hoa Binh bridge. Modern rooms
decked out in cream and beige come with
tion up close, head across Hoa Binh’s bridge flat-screen TVs, kettles and even a bit of
and follow the riverside road to the lookout
platform right beside the wall. Engineering kitsch art on the walls.

fans can also enter the tunnels underneath. Muong Cultural Museum

On the way to the dam there’s a memori- Homestay HOMESTAY $
(%0913 553 937; www.muong.vn; 202 Tay Tien;
al to the 161 workers who died during its per person 100,000d) Simple shared accom-
construction.
modation in ethnic minority stilt houses.

129

Breakfast is an additional 30,000d and oth- itself is unappealing, but just outside a
er meals cost around 80,000d to 100,000d. patchwork of rice fields rolls out, ­speckled
Longer term residencies by artists are pos- by tiny Thai villages where visitors doss
sible. A xe om/taxi from Hoa Binh costs down for the night in traditional stilt houses
around 50,000/100,000d. and wake up to a rural soundtrack defined
by gurgling irrigation streams and birdsong.
Thap Vang Hotel HOTEL $
(%0218-385 2864; 810a Ð Cu Chinh Lan; r The villagers are mostly White Thai, dis-
250,000-400,000d; paW) Set just off the tantly related to tribes in Thailand, Laos and
main street, this decent budget choice has China. Most no longer wear traditional dress,
spotlessly clean rooms with fridge and sat- but the Thai women are masterful weavers
ellite TV. It’s worth paying slightly more for producing plenty of traditional-style textiles.
the larger rooms. Locals do not employ strong-arm sales tac-
tics here: polite bargaining is the norm. N o rth e rn Vi e tna m IMNnoafriotCrhhmwaauetsi ot nV i e tn a m
88 Information
Mai Chau is a successful grassroots tour-
There are ATMs along Hwy 6. ism project and the village homestays here
Hoa Binh Tourism Company (% 0218-385 are firmly stamped on the tour-group agen-
4374; www.hoabinhtourism.com; Hoa Binh da, as well as being an extremely popular
Hotel, 367 P An Duong Vuong) Has an office at weekend getaway for locals from Hanoi –
the government-run Hoa Binh Hotel, off Hwy 6. try to come midweek if possible. Due to its
Organises regional tours. popularity, some find the experience too
sanitised. If you’re looking for hard-core ex-
88 Getting There & Away ploration, this is not the place, but for bik-
ing, hiking and relaxation, Mai Chau fits the
Hoa Binh is 74km southwest of Hanoi. With pri- bill nicely.
vate transport you can visit Ba Vi National Park
en route from Hanoi, and follow a riverbank road 1 Sights & Activities
to Hoa Binh.
Hoa Binh Bus Station (Ɖ Tran Hung Dao) Most visitors come simply to sleep in a
There are frequent services to Hanoi (50,000d, stilt house and to stroll (or cycle) the paths
two hours) between 5am and 5.45pm. Buses through the rice fields to the separate mi-
to Mai Chau (50,000d, 1½ hours) leave at 6am, nority villages. Most stilt house homestays
8.20am, 10.40am, noon and 2pm. rent bikes to explore the valley at your own
pace and can organise a local guide for
Mai Chau about US$10.

% 0218 / POP 12,000 A popular 18km trek is from Lac village
(Ban Lac) in Mai Chau to Xa Linh village,
Set in an idyllic valley, hemmed in by hills, near a mountain pass (elevation 1000m)
the Mai Chau area is a world away from on Hwy 6. Lac village is home to White
Hanoi’s hustle. The small town of Mai Chau Thai, while the inhabitants of Xa Linh are

SLEEPING ON STILTS

Thai Stilt Houses (Mai Chau; per person 80,000-200,000d) Virtually every visitor to Mai
Chau stays in one of the numerous Thai stilt house homestays in the villages of Lac
or Pom Coong, a five-minute stroll apart. Overnighting in these minority villages is a
civilised experience with electricity, Western-style toilets, hot showers, and roll-up mat-
tresses with mosquito nets provided. Plan on one night plus dinner and breakfast costing
around 250,000d.

It’s all exceedingly comfortable, so don’t arrive expecting a rustic hill-tribe encounter.
Despite – or maybe because of – the modern amenities, it’s still a memorable experi-
ence. The surrounding area is beautifully lush, the Thai villages are attractive and tidy,
and locals are exceedingly friendly. Even with a TV on and the hum of the refrigerator, it is
a peaceful place, and you’re still sleeping in a thatched-roof stilt house on split-bamboo
floors.

Reservations are not necessary. Just show up, but try and arrive before dark so you
can get your bearings.

130 a little more privacy than the neighbour-
Hmong. The trek is strenuous in one day, so hood homestays, this friendly operation
most people spend a night in a village. Ar- in Lac village offers nine bungalows with
range a guide, and a car to meet you at the rickety bamboo furniture. Dorms are also
mountain pass for the journey back to Mai available. Grab a bungalow at the back to
Chau. Note there’s a 600m climb in altitude, wake up to verdant rice-field views. There
and the trail is slippery after rain. are free bikes to explore the surrounding
Ask around in Mai Chau about longer countryside.
treks of three to seven days. Other options
include kayaking and mountain-biking Mai Chau Lodge HOTEL $$$
excursions; enquire at Mai Chau Lodge. (%0218-386 8959; www.maichaulodge.com; Mai
Many travel agencies in Hanoi run inex- Chau; r US$145; aiWs) This tour-group
pensive trips to Mai Chau. favourite has contemporary rooms with
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NSMloaeri etCphhi nwague s&t EVaiteitnnga m wooden floors and designer lighting, and
4 Sleeping & Eating trimmed with local textiles. The thatched-
roof restaurant overlooks a small lake and
For most visitors, Mai Chau is all about the the pool. Activities on offer include visits to
stilt house homestays in the villages of Lac caves, cookery classes, and guided walking,
or Pom Coong. kayaking and mountain-biking excursions.

Most people eat where they stay. Establish 88 Getting There & Away
the price of meals first as some places charge
up to 200,000d for dinner. Everything from Direct buses to Mai Chau (100,000d, 3¾ hours)
fried eggs to French fries is available, but the leave Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station at 6am,
local food is best and shouldn’t be missed. 8.30am and 11am. If you want to stay in Lac
or Pom Coong villages, just ask the bus driver
oMai Chau Nature Lodge BUNGALOW $$ to drop you off there. You’ll be dropped off at

(%0946 888 804; www.maichaunatureplace.com;
Lac village; dm US$5, d with fan US$30; W) For

CHOW DOWN IN MOC CHAU & YEN CHAU

Many travellers enjoy the beautiful scenery around Mai Chau then head back to Hanoi
before kicking on north to Sapa. But if you’ve got some time up your sleeve, or are
heading west to Laos, the winding route of Hwy 6 to Dien Bien Phu is a scenic road trip
packed with rural vistas. For foodies with a hankering for local flavours, especially if
you’ve got a sweet tooth, it’s worth stopping off at a couple of towns along this road.

Around 200km west of Hanoi, Moc Chau boasts a pioneering dairy industry
launched in the late 1970s with Australian and UN assistance. The dairy provides Hanoi
with fresh milk, sweetened condensed milk and little tooth-rotting bars called banh sua,
and the town is a good place to sample fresh milk and yoghurt. Moc Chau also produces
some of Vietnam’s best tea, and the surrounding area is home to ethnic minorities, in-
cluding Green Hmong, Dzao, Thai and Muong.

Vietnam in Focus (p72) offers photographic trips from Hanoi to Moc Chau’s fascinat-
ing Hmong Love Market in late August/early September.

Handspan Adventure Travel (p88) runs two- and three-day trips to the area, staying in
a Black Thai homestay in Ban Doi village.

A further 60km west, the agricultural Yen Chau district is known for its abundant
fruit production. Apart from bananas, all fruits grown here are seasonal. Mangoes, plums
and peaches are harvested from April to June, longans in July and August, and custard
apples from August to September.

Yen Chau mangoes are renowned as Vietnam’s tastiest, although travellers may initial-
ly find them disappointing, as they are small and green, rather than big, yellow and juicy
like those of the tropical south. Most Vietnamese actually prefer the tart flavour of the
green ones, especially dipped in nuoc mam (fish sauce) and sugar.

Both Moc Chau and Yen Chau can be reached on departures to either Son La or Dien
Bien Phu from Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station. Once on the road, travellers should find it
relatively easy to flag down onward transport along Hwy 6.

4 Sleeping 131

the crossroads, just a short stroll from both Sao Xanh Hotel HOTEL $
villages. You may have to pay a 7000d entry (%022-378 9999; www.saoxanh.vn; 1 P Quyet
fee to Mai Chau, but the toll booth is often Thang; d/tw 290,000/320,000d) Excellent value
unattended. with spotless, colourful rooms and a friendly
vibe at reception. The hotel is just a short
Heading back to Hanoi, buses leave at 9am, walk to good cafes and restaurants.
11am and 1pm. Homestay owners can book
these buses for you and arrange for you to be
picked up from the village.

Hanoi Hotel HOTEL $$
(%022-375 3299; 228 Ð Truong Chinh; r US$40-
Son La 50; aiW) This gleaming main-drag edifice
has modern rooms trimmed with colourful
% 022 / POP 66,500 art, wooden furniture and surprisingly com- N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNiognrhttLhsaw&e sAtctViiveittni easm
fortable beds. Bring along your negotiation
Son La has prospered as a logical transit A-game to get a good walk-in rate.
point between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu.
It’s not a must-see destination, but the sur- 5 Eating & Drinking
rounding scenery is impressive, and there
are a few interesting diversions. Long Phuong Restaurant VIETNAMESE $
(%022-385 2339; P Thinh Doi; meals 40,000-
The region is one of Vietnam’s most eth- 70,000d; h11am-10pm) Located at one of the
nically diverse and home to more than 30 busier junctions in town, this restaurant fea-
different minorities, including Black Thai, tures local minority dishes. Try sour mang
Meo, Muong and White Thai. Vietnamese dang (bamboo shoots) soup with sticky rice
influence was minimal until the 20th cen- dipped in sesame-seed salt.
tury, and from 1959 to 1980 the region was
part of the Tay Bac Autonomous Region. Trung Nguyen Cafe CAFE

1 Sights & Activities (P Quyet Thang; h8am-10pm) Next door to the
Sao Xanh Hotel, this smart cafe-bar has a re-
You’ll find woven shoulder bags, scarves, laxing, tree-shaded garden at the front and
silver buttons and necklaces, and other hill- serves up some of Son La’s best coffee.
tribe crafts at Son La’s market.

Old French Prison & Museum MUSEUM

(admission 30,000d; h7-11am & 1-4pm) Son La’s 88 Information
Old French Prison & Museum was a French
penal colony where anticolonial revolution- Agribank (8 Ð Chu Van Thinh; h 8am-3pm
aries were incarcerated. It was destroyed by Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat, ATM 24hr)

the ‘off-loading’ of unused ammunition by 88 Getting There & Away
US war planes after bombing raids, but is
now partially restored. Rebuilt turrets stand Son La is 340km from Hanoi and 140km from
guard over crumbling cells and a famous Dien Bien Phu.
lone surviving peach tree, planted by To
Hieu, a 1940s inmate. From the bus station, 5km southwest of town,
Next door, upstairs in the People’s Com- there are frequent buses between 5am and 1pm
mittee office, is a tiny museum with some to Hanoi (155,000d, 8½ hours) and services to
fine displays of local hill-tribe textiles. Dien Bien Phu (105,000d, four hours) at 5am,
7am, 8am, 12.30pm and 4pm. There are also two
Lookout Tower VIEWPOINT morning buses at 5am and 5.30am to Ninh Binh
(165,000d, nine hours).

For an overview of Son La, follow the stone
steps to the left of the Trade Union Hotel.
Look forward to a 20-minute walk to reach Dien Bien Phu
the lookout.
% 0230 / POP 72,700
Thuan Chau Craft Market MARKET
Dien Bien Phu (DBP) plays a star role in
Thuan Chau is about 35km northwest of Son Vietnam’s modern history. It was in the sur-
La. Take a local bus or xe om here early in rounding countryside here, on 7 May 1954,
the morning, when its daily market is full of that the French colonial forces were defeat-
colourful hill-tribe women. ed by the Viet Minh in a decisive battle, and
the days of their Indochina empire became
numbered.

132

Dien Bien Phu e# 0 400 m ed hills. The scenery along the way here is
0 0.2 miles stunning, with approach roads scything
AB through thick forests and steep terrain. The
66D 61 Dien Bien Phu city itself lies more prosaically on a broad
–# (300m) dry plain. Thai, Hmong and Si La people live
in the surrounding mountains, but the city
Ð Lo and valley are mainly inhabited by ethnic
Van Hac Vietnamese.
16 #D ThManuhong
Thanh Previously just a minor settlement, DBP
Ð Muong Hotel only achieved town status in 1992. It became
Ð Nguyen Huu Tho (1km) 1 a city in 2003, and a year later was elevated
15 to provincial capital. Expansive boulevards
›#ú#Ð T1r2an DManagrkNeitnh#ÿ 9 #á 8
10ÿ# #ò
#ü #ì

66614 CPhiNgTruaynehn P Tran Can

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m DGN ieoetrnttiBhniwge enTshPtheVruiee t&nAawmay 7 æ# 3 and civic buildings have been constructed,
2 æ# P Be#ú13 2 and the airport now receives daily flights
666æ#
6
Van DanRon River from Hanoi.
4 #á History is DBP’s main attraction with

1 Thai the clutch of bunkers, museums and war
Dien B2ie11#ân1Ðá#æ#11H1Ao5a111nH11gi1ú#llVan memorials attracting mostly domestic tour-
Phu Museum1 1 1 ists. With the nearby Tay Trang–Sop Hun
666·/41 ­Vietnam–Laos border open to foreigners,
Lao Border 111 more travellers are now passing through the

3 3 city too.
Ð 7-5

D History

(34km) In early 1954 General Henri Navarre, com-

A B 1 mander of the French forces in Indochina,
sent 12 battalions to occupy the Muong
Dien Bien Phu Thanh Valley in an attempt to prevent
the Viet Minh from crossing into Laos
æ Top Sights and threatening the former Lao capital of
1 A1 Hill ....................................................B2 Luang Prabang. The French units, of which
2 Dien Bien Phu Museum.......................B3 30% were ethnic Vietnamese, were soon

æ Sights surrounded by Viet Minh forces under
3 Bunker of Chief Artillery
Commander Pirot .............................B2 ­General Vo Nguyen Giap. The Viet Minh
outnumbered the French by five to one,
4 Bunker of Colonel de Castries ............A2 and were equipped with artillery pieces and
5 Dien Bien Phu Cemetery.....................B3 anti-­aircraft guns, painstakingly carried by
6 French War Memorial..........................A3 porters through jungles and across rivers.
7 Muong Thanh Bridge...........................A2 The guns were placed in carefully camou-
8 Victory Monument............................... B1 flaged and concealed places overlooking the

ÿ Sleeping French positions.
9 Binh Long Hotel ................................... B1
10 Ruby Hotel............................................B2 When the guns opened up, French Chief
Artillery Commander Pirot committed su-
icide. He’d assumed there was no way the
ú Eating Viet Minh could get heavy artillery to the
11 Bia Hoi ..................................................B3 area. A failed Viet Minh human-wave as-
12 Pho Stalls ............................................. A1 sault against the French was followed by
13 Yen Ninh ...............................................B2 weeks of intense artillery bombardments.

û Drinking & Nightlife Six battalions of French paratroopers were
14 The Coffee Shop ..................................B2 parachuted into DBP as the situation wors-

ï Transport ened, but bad weather and the impervious
15 Bus Station........................................... A1 Viet Minh artillery prevented sufficient
16 Vietnam Airlines .................................. A1 French reinforcements from arriving. An
elaborate system of trenches and tunnels
allowed Viet Minh soldiers to reach French
The town sits in the heart-shaped Muong positions without coming under fire. The
Thanh Valley, surrounded by heavily forest- trenches and bunkers were overrun by the

133

Viet Minh after the French decided against Colonel Christian de Castries has been rec-
the use of US conventional bombers, and reated. A few discarded tanks linger nearby,
the Pentagon’s proposal to use tactical and you’ll probably see Vietnamese tourists
atomic bombs. All 13,000 French soldiers mounting the bunker and waving the Viet-
were either killed or taken prisoner, and namese flag, re-enacting an iconic photo-
Viet Minh casualties were estimated at graph taken at the battle’s conclusion.
25,000.
Dien Bien Phu Cemetery CEMETERY
Just one day before the Geneva Con-
ference on Indochina was set to begin in (Ð 7-5) The immaculately maintained Dien
Switzerland, Viet Minh forces finally over- Bien Phu Cemetery commemorates the Vi-
ran the beleaguered French garrison after a etnamese dead, each gravestone bearing the
57-day siege. This shattered French morale, gold star of the Vietnamese flag and a clutch
and the French government abandoned all of incense sticks.
attempts to re-establish colonial control of N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SDNiogerhnttBhsiwe ensPthVui e tn a m
Vietnam. French War Memorial MEMORIAL

The formal French War Memorial, erected
on the 30th anniversary of the 1954 battle,
1 Sights commemorates the 3000 French troops bur-

oDien Bien Phu Museum MUSEUM ied under the rice paddies.

(%0230-382 4971; Ð 7-5; admission 15,000d; Muong Thanh Bridge BRIDGE
h7-11am & 1.30-4.30pm) This well-laid-out
museum, contained in a space-agey modern The old Muong Thanh Bridge is preserved
and closed to four-wheeled traffic.
structure, features an eclectic collection that
commemorates the 1954 battle. Alongside
weaponry and guns, there’s a bathtub that Bunker of Chief Artillery

belonged to the French commander Colonel Commander Pirot MEMORIAL

de Castries, a bicycle capable of carrying Though not much more than an overgrown
crater, this is the bunker where Chief Artil-
330kg of ordnance, and photographs and lery Commander Pirot committed suicide.
documents, some with English translations.
4 Sleeping
oA1 Hill MONUMENT
oRuby Hotel
(Ð 7-5; admission 3000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5pm) HOTEL $
(%091 365 5793; www.rubyhoteldienbien.
There are tanks and a monument to Viet com; off Ɖ Nguyen Chi Thanh; s/d/tr 400,000/
Minh casualties on this former French po-
sition, known to the French as Eliane and 500,000/600,000d) The best deal in Dien
Bien Phu is this friendly hotel, down a sign-
to the Vietnamese as A1 Hill. The elaborate posted alleyway. Rooms are comfortably fit-
trenches at the heart of the French defences
have also been recreated. ted out with new beds, flat-screen TVs and
bathrooms featuring rain shower heads.
Bunker of Colonel de Castries MONUMENT If you’re travelling solo, treat yourself to a
(admission 5000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5pm) Across ­double room as the singles are quite small.
the Ron River, the command bunker of

GETTING TO LAOS: DIEN BIEN PHU TO MUANG KHUA

Getting to the border Buses from Dien Bien Phu to Muang Khua (110,000d) leave
daily at 5.30am. It’s advisable to book your ticket the day prior to travelling. This bus
takes you through the Tay Trang/Sop Hun border crossing and drops you off in
Muang Khua in Laos. The journey typically takes between seven and eight hours, but
can be longer depending on the roads and border formalities. Other destinations in Laos
from DBP include Luang Prabang (495,000d, 6am), Nam Tha (350,000d, 6.30am) and
Udomxai (230,000d, 7.30am).

At the border The Tay Trang/Sop Hun border, 34km from Dien Bien Phu, is open daily
between 7am and 7pm. Crossing into Laos most travellers can get a 30-day visa on arriv-
al (US$30 to US$42). Have two passport photos, and additional cash (around US$5) on
hand for occasional local administrative fees.

Moving on From Muang Khua there are buses to Udomxai.

134
BUSES FROM DIEN BIEN PHU

DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY
Hanoi 270,000-300,000 11½
Lai Chau 130,000 6-7 frequent 4.30am-9pm

Muang Khua (Laos) 110,000 7-8 6.15am, 7am, 8am, 9am,
Muong Lay 62,000 3-4 10am, 12.30pm, 1.15pm
Son La 105,000 4
5.30am

2.30pm, 3pm, 4pm

4.30am, 8am, noon,
2pm

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m ENMaoutroitnhgw&LeasDytr iVnikeitnnga m Binh Long Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ The Coffee Shop CAFE

(%0230-382 4345; 429 Ð Muong Thanh; d (P Tran Can; h10am-10pm) One of a row of
200,000d; aW) This small, family-run place modern cafes on this street, we like the smil-
is squeezed between shops, right in the thick ing staff and brick-and-wood decor here.
of things on the main road. The small rooms It serves Vietnamese coffee and good fruit
are very worn, but kept in better shape than shakes, as well as ice cream.
the rest of DBP’s cheapies.
88 Information
Muong Thanh Hotel HOTEL $$
(%0230-381 0043; www.muongthanh.vn; Ð Mu- Agribank (% 0230-382 5786; Ð 7-5; h 8am-
ong Thanh; r incl breakfast US$50-80; aWs) 3pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
Midrange hotels are not DBP’s forte and the Main Post Office (Ð 7-5; h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Muong Thanh is the best of a bad bunch. 88 Getting There & Away
Business-style rooms include big beds and
marble bathrooms but carpets are covered
in cigarette burns and someone forgot to AIR
clean the corners of the rooms. Still, the Dien Bien Phu Airport (DIN) is 1.5km from
pool complete with kitsch concrete dragon the town centre along the road to Muong Lay.
is amusing. Vietnam Airlines (% 0230-382 4948; www.
vietnamairlines.com; Ɖ Nguyen Huu Tho;
5 Eating & Drinking h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm) operates two
flights daily to Hanoi and has an office near the
Dining options are limited in DBP but there airport.
is a line of good-value, simple restaurants
along P Nguyen Chi Tranh, all with pick- BUS
and-choose counters where you can tuck DBP’s bus station (Hwy 12) is at the corner of Ð
into everything from chicken to fried lo- Tran Dang Ninh.
custs, and a row of cheap and cheerful pho
stalls (dishes around 30,000d; h8am-10pm) op- CAR & MOTORCYCLE
posite the bus station; some serve delicious The 480km drive from Hanoi to Dien Bien Phu on
fresh sugar-cane juice. Hwys 6 and 279 takes around 11 hours.

Yen Ninh VIETNAMESE $ Muong Lay
(P Be Van Dan; meals 50,000-80,000d; h11am-
9pm; v) This modest fully vegetarian diner % 0231 / POP 8800
dishes up tasty noodle and rice plates with
plenty of tofu. Formerly known as Lai Chau, the small
township of Muong Lay, en route from Dien
Bia Hoi VIETNAMESE $ Bien Phu to Sapa, used to perch on the
(Ɖ Hoang Van Thai; meals 30,000-50,000d; banks of the spectacular Da River valley un-
hnoon-10pm) You’re probably only in town til it was flooded as part of the mammoth
for a night so meet the locals at the bia hoi Song Da Reservoir hydroelectricity scheme.
gardens along Ɖ Hoang Van Thai. There’s Today, renamed and moved up to the bank
decent and cheap grilled food also if you’re of the newly formed lake, the couple of
tired of rice and noodles. scruffy streets that make up Muong Lay are
a listless place.

The scenery here, though, dominated
by the expansive lake rimmed by rippling

135

mountains, is absolutely gorgeous. Situ- the buses from Dien Bien Phu, which all stop
ated just out of town, on a cliff above the here.
lake, a couple of hotels make good use of
the dramatic views, but unless you need a Note that due to a dire lack of facilities this is
slightly surreal stopover on the long road not a good overnight stop for those using public
north or south, there’s really no point in transport. Taking the through-bus between Dien
staying. Bien Phu and Lai Chau is a better option.

4 Sleeping & Eating Lai Chau

Lan Anh Hotel HOTEL $$ % 0231 / POP 37,000
(%0989 673 888, 0230-350 9577; www.lananh
hotel.com; r US$20-45; aWs) Located on After passing through one of Vietnam’s
a ridge overlooking Muong Lay’s lake, the r­emotest regions, the new eight-lane boule- N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NSL aloeireCtphhianwuge s&t EVaiteitnnga m
Lan Anh has basic wooden rooms at the vards and monumental government build-
back and decent-sized midrange options ings of Lai Chau appear like some kind of
complete with time-warp 1970s furniture in bizarre mirage.
the main building. Service is haphazard at
best and the complex can seem hilariously Formerly known as Tam Duong, this iso-
Twilight Zone–like if you’re the sole guest. lated town was renamed Lai Chau when
the decision was made to flood ‘old’ Lai
88 Getting There & Away Chau (now known as Muong Lay). ‘New’
Lai Chau is split between the old town,
From Muong Lay’s small bus station there are with its market full of hill-tribe people, and
buses to Dien Bien Phu (80,000d, four hours) the concrete new town located 3km to the
at 6.30am and 7.30am; and a service to Sinho southeast.
(80,000d, 2½ hours) at 8am. To Lai Chau
(55,000d, three hours) you can jump on any of Despite its grandiose streets and upgrade
to provincial capital status, Lai Chau is still
something of a one-horse town. Fortunately,

SINHO VILLAGE

Sinho is a scenic mountain village, home to a large number of ethnic minorities. It should
attract more tourists, but when you visit, there is a ‘you ain’t from around here’ look on
the faces of many locals.

However, a decent hotel and improving road access means it’s an interesting detour if
you’re keen to see an authentic local market very different from those at Sapa and Bac
Ha, which are now firmly on the tour-bus route.

Sinho has markets (h6am-2pm) on Saturday and Sunday; the wildly colourful
Sunday market is the more impressive of the two. Just don’t expect trendy ethnic handi-
crafts: you’re more likely to be confronted with a full-on mix of bovine moos and porcine
squeals.

The best (only!) place in town that accepts foreign travellers is the Thanh Binh Ho-
tel (%0231-387 0366; Zone 5, Sinho; r incl breakfast US$25-30; ai), a surprisingly com-
fortable spot comprised of 17 decent rooms. Meals (120,000d) are available, and treks
can be arranged to nearby White Hmong and Red Dzao villages.

Note there are no ATMs or banks in Sinho.
It’s definitely slow getting to Sinho by public transport, but achievable with a flexible
attitude. A bus to Sinho leaves Dien Bien Phu daily (120,000d, six hours) at around
5.30am, transiting through Muong Lay around 8am. These times can be flexible, so
check at the Dien Bien Phu bus station the day before you want to leave. From Sinho,
buses then trundle downhill to Lai Chau (45,000d, three hours) at 7am and 1pm. Head-
ing south from Lai Chau to Sinho, there are four buses per day and a daily departure
from Sinho to Dien Bien Phu (120,000d, six hours). Note that the road linking Sinho to
Lai Chau was not in great shape at the time of writing.
If you’re travelling on two wheels, the turn-off uphill to Sinho is 1km north of Chan Nua
on the main road from Muong Lay to Lai Chau. Definitely ask about the state of the road
from Sinho to Lai Chau before you leave Hanoi.

136 overlooking a plunging valley, with moun-
the surrounding scenery of verdant conical tains towering above on all sides. Views of
peaks is as beguiling as ever. this epic scenery are often subdued by thick
Most visitors only dally long enough for mist rolling across the peaks, but even when
a lunch break between Dien Bien Phu and it’s cloudy, local hill-tribe people fill the town
Sapa. The drive from Lai Chau to Sapa along with colour.
Hwy 4D, threading through the Fansipan
Mountain Range near the Chinese border, is If you were expecting a quaint alpine
a beautiful stretch of road. town, recalibrate your expectations. Sapa’s
French colonial villas fell into disrepair dur-
4 Sleeping ing successive wars with the French, Amer-
icans and Chinese, and modern tourism
Phuong Tanh HOTEL $ development has mushroomed haphazard-
(%0231-387 5235; 31 Ɖ Tran Hung; r 300,000- ly. Sapa today is undergoing a construction
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNlaoepreatphi nwge st V i e tn a m 350,000d; aW) The Phuong Tanh overcomes boom and, thanks to rarely enforced build-
a drab reception area with well-lit rooms of- ing height restrictions, the skyline is contin-
fering clean bedding and nice views from ually thrusting upwards.
the open-to-air corridors. On the 2nd floor,
Café Phan Xi Pan is a brightly coloured oasis But you are not here to hang out in the
with wi-fi, cold beer, and tasty variations on town. This is northern Vietnam’s premier
rice and noodles. trekking base from where hikers launch
themselves into a surrounding countryside
Muong Phat Hotel HOTEL $ filled with cascading rice terraces and tiny
(%0231-379 1386; Ɖ 30-4; r 250,000d; W) Di- hill-tribe villages that seem a world apart.
rectly opposite Lai Chau bus station, the Once you have stepped out into the lush
Muong Phat has small colourful rooms fields you will understand the Sapa area’s
(pink walls and red carpets, no less) and real charm.
enthusiastic staff, making it a good option
if you want to roll out of town on an early- 1 Sights & Activities
morning bus.
oSapa Museum MUSEUM

88 Information (103 Ɖ Xuan Vien; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm)
F Excellent showcase of the history and
There are ATMs along Ɖ Tran Hung in the central ethnology of the Sapa area, including the
town. colonial times of the French. Exhibitions

88 Getting There & Away demonstrate the differences between the
various ethnic minority people of the area,
Lai Chau bus station (Ɖ 30-4) is 1km from the so it’s definitely worth visiting the museum
town centre. A xe om from the bus station into when you first arrive in town.
the town centre is around 10,000d and a taxi
around 20,000d. Sapa Market MARKET

Buses south to Dien Bien Phu (130,000d, sev- (Ɖ Ngu Chi Son; h6am-2pm) Unfortunately
en hours) via Muong Lay (55,000d, three hours) turfed out of central Sapa, and now in a
leave at 5am, 6.30am, hourly between 8am and purpose-built modern building near the bus
1pm, and 5pm. To Hanoi (from 280,000d, 12 station, Sapa Market is still a hive of colour-
hours) there are services at 6.30am, 9.15am, ful activity with fresh produce, a butcher’s
9.45am, 10pm and 10.15pm. section not for the squeamish and hill-tribe
people from surrounding villages heading
Heading to Sapa (75,000d, 2½ hours), get here most days to sell handicrafts. Saturday
on any Lao Cai–bound bus. They leave at is the busiest day.
least hourly between 5am and 5pm. For Sinho
(45,000d, three hours) there are services at Tram Ton Pass VIEWPOINT
6am, 7am, 9am and 1.30pm.
The road between Sapa and Lai Chau cross-
es the Tram Ton Pass on the northern side
of Fansipan, 15km from Sapa. At 1900m
Sapa this is Vietnam’s highest mountain pass,
and acts as a dividing line between two
% 020 / POP 36,200 / ELEV 1650M weather fronts. The lookout points here
have fantastic views. Most people also stop
Established as a hill station by the French at 100m-high Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall),
in 1922, Sapa today is the tourism centre of 12km from Sapa.
the northwest.

Sapa is orientated to make the most of the
spectacular views emerging on clear days,

137

On the Sapa side, it’s often cold and foggy, Sa Seng & Hang Da HIKING
but drop a few hundred metres onto the Lai
Chau side, and it can be sunny and warm. For spectacular valley views (if the mist and
Surprisingly, Sapa is the coldest place in cloud gods relent), there’s a beautiful hike
Vietnam, but Lai Chau can be one of the along a high ridge east of Sapa through the
warmest. Black Hmong settlements of Sa Seng and
Hang Da down to the Ta Van River, where
you can get transport back to Sapa.
Victoria Spa SPA

(%020-387 1522; www.victoriahotels-asia.com; Ta Phin HIKING

Victoria Sapa Resort, P Hoang Dieu; h8am-10pm) (admission 20,000d) A very popular hike from
After a few days of trekking, treat yourself Sapa is to Ta Phin village, home to Red Dzao
with a bit of pampering. This upmarket spa and about 10km from Sapa. Most people
complex at the Victoria Sapa Resort has gor- take a xe om to a starting point about 8km
geous massage and treatment rooms. The from Sapa, and then make a 14km loop N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NS iaogprhatthsw&e sAtctViiveittni easm
spa’s pool area (with sauna and shower fa- through the area, passing through Black
cilities) is open to people not staying at the Hmong and Red Dzao villages.
resort for US$10 per person.
Fansipan HIKING

Hiking Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang Lien
You won’t step too far out of your hotel in Mountains, dubbed the Tonkinese Alps by
Sapa before being accosted with offers to the French. These mountains include the
guide you on hikes. often cloud-obscured Fansipan (3143m), Vi-
etnam’s highest peak. Fansipan is accessible
For longer treks with overnight stays year-round to sensibly equipped trekkers
in villages, it’s important to hook up with in good shape, but don’t underestimate the
someone who knows the terrain and culture challenge. It is very wet, and can be perilous-
and speaks the language. We recommend ly slippery and generally cold.
using minority guides, as this offers them a The summit of Fansipan is 19km by foot
means of making a living. Note it’s illegal to from Sapa. The terrain is rough and ad-
stay overnight in villages that are not offi- verse weather is frequent. The round trip
cially recognised as homestays. Ignoring this usually takes three days; some experienced
could cause significant problems for your hikers do it in two days, but you’ll need to
hosts and yourself. be fit. After walking through hill-tribe vil-
lages on the first morning, it’s just forest,
The surrounding landscape is now part mountain vistas and occasional wildlife,
of Hoang Lien National Park and all the vil- including monkeys, mountain goats and
lages that can be visited have admission fees birds. Weather-wise the best time is from
from 20,000d to 40,000d.

Cat Cat HIKING mid-October to mid-December, and in

(admission 40,000d) The nearest village with- March, when wildflowers are in bloom.
in walking distance is Cat Cat, 3km south of
Sapa. It’s a steep and beautiful hike down, Don’t attempt an ascent if Sapa’s weather is
poor, as limited visibility on Fansipan can
and there are plenty of xe om for the return be treacherous.
uphill journey.

BUILDING A STRONGER HMONG FUTURE

Inherent in Sapa’s burgeoning prosperity is cultural change for the hill-tribe people.
Traditionally, the Hmong have been employees of Vietnamese-owned trekking com-

panies, restaurants and accommodation, with many Hmong children kept out of school
to sell handicrafts or act as trekking guides, often walking up to 10km daily from their
villages to Sapa to earn money. A new generation, though, is now focused on securing a
more independent and positive future for their people.

Sapa O’Chau (p139), meaning ‘thank you Sapa’ in the Hmong language, is focused on
providing training and opportunities to Hmong children. The organisation is run by for-
mer handicraft peddler Shu Tan, who created the Sapa O’Chau Learning Centre, a live-in
school where up to 20 Hmong children can learn English and Vietnamese. The organisa-
tion also runs excellent walks and treks.

138

Sapa e# 0 100 m
0 0.05 miles
ABCD

666D1 Ø# 4 ì# Ð Ngu Chi Son 1
Market Sapa
16
(550m);
ÿ# Sapa ›#(700m);

Thac Bac (12km); 22 Sa Seng (4 km);
Tram Ton #ú Hang Da (7km);
Pass (15km) 66666ÐThacBac Ð Xuan Vien
D ò# Ð Thach Son Ta Phin Village (10km);
2# Park Lao Cai (38km)
D ›#
D #ú 19

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SCNaopuratrhs ewse st V i e tn a m 2 #ú Sapa 1 31 Ü# 32 2
Museum Square Sapa
â# #ï
Church
17
Ð Ham Rong
Go Sapa 18 #ú ÿ# ì# #ÿ 14
Hostel 15 #ú 23

66666(100m) ÿ# 10
ÐPhan Si 13 ÿ#
Tinh
inh
Tue 66626
T
ú# 3
Ð
Tue R
3 12 #ÿ 9 Ham Rong
ÿ# D Mountain
D
6 #ú
30 ÿ#Ð Phan Si21 Ð Muong Hoa
Ð D o ng Loi #û29 #ú 20
27 #û þ# P Cau May#ì
#3
at #ú
Ð C atC 24 6667#ÿ #ú25
5 #ÿ 28
Cat Cat Village (3km); 11 #ÿ #û
4 Fansipan (19km) Sin Chai (5km); 4
Ta Van (8km);
8 #ÿ Topas Eco
Lodge (18km);
Nam Cang Riverside
House (36km)
D
AB 666C

No ropes or technical climbing skills are C Courses
needed, just endurance. There are a few ru-
dimentary shelters at a couple of base camps Indigo Cat CRAFTS
en route, but it’s better to be self-sufficient
with sleeping bag, waterproof tent, food, (%0982 403 647; www.facebook.com/indigocat
stove, raincoat, compass and other mis- sapa; 46 Ɖ Phan Si; class 100,000-200,000d;
cellaneous survival gear. It’s important to h9am-7pm) Craft shop Indigo Cat runs af-
carry out all your garbage, as some of the ternoon workshops where you can learn
camps are now impacted by trash. Hiring a traditional Hmong weaving and embroidery
reputable guide is vital, and porters are also skills. Workshops take place in the village of
Ta Ven. Call into its Sapa shop for details.

recommended. Hill Station
Through local operators, count on an Signature Restaurant
COOKING
all-inclusive rate of around US$150 per per- (%020-388 7112; 37 Ɖ Phan Si; per person US$29;
son for a couple, US$125 per person for a hfrom 9am) Excellent three-hour cooking
group of four, and US$100 per person for the classes with an English-speaking Hmong
sensible maximum group size of six. chef starting with a 30-minute market
Fansipan’s wild, lonesome beauty has tour and featuring five local dishes, includ-
been somewhat shattered with the opening ing homemade tofu, smoked buffalo and
of a 6282m-long cable car, taking people Hmong-style black pudding, as well as the
across the Muong Hoa Valley and up to the chance to taste local rice wine. Book the
summit in 15 minutes. evening before.

139

Sapa 18 Barbecue Restaurants...........................B2 N o rth e rn Vi e tna m TNSoaopurartsh w e st V i e tn a m
19 Gecko ......................................................C2
æ Top Sights 20 Hill Station Deli & Boutique ...................C3
1 Sapa Museum ........................................ A2 21 Hill Station Signature

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Restaurant ...........................................A3
Hill Station Signature 22 Hotpot Stalls........................................... C1
Restaurant ................................. (see 21) 23 Little Sapa...............................................B2
Indigo Cat ........................................ (see 6) 24 Nature View ............................................A4
25 Sapa Memories ......................................C4
2 Sapa O'Chau .......................................... A2
Sapa Sisters .................................. (see 10) Sapa O'Chau ................................... (see 2)
26 Viet Emotion ...........................................B3
3 Topas Travel .......................................... C4 û Drinking & Nightlife
4 Victoria Spa.............................................B1 27 Color Bar .................................................A4
28 Hmong Sisters........................................C4
ÿ Sleeping 29 Mountain Bar & Pub...............................C3
5 Botanic Sapa.......................................... C4 þ Shopping
6 Cat Cat View Hotel ................................ A3 30 Hemp & Embroidery ..............................A3
7 Holiday Sapa .......................................... C4
8 Luong Thuy Family Guesthouse........... C4 Indigo Cat........................................ (see 6)
9 Phuong Nam Hotel ................................ B3 ï Information

10 Sapa Graceful Hotel .............................. B2 31 Sapa Tourism .........................................B2
11 Sapa Lodge ............................................ C4 ï Transport
12 Sapa Luxury Hotel ................................. A3
13 Sapa Paradise View ............................... B3 32 Minibuses to Lao Cai..............................B2
14 Thai Binh Hotel ...................................... C2
15 U Sapa .................................................... B2
16 Victoria Sapa Resort .............................. B1

ú Eating
17 Baguette & Chocolat ............................. A2

T Tours ised private day hikes and longer village
homestay treks. Excellent English is spoken,
Many visitors arrive on tour packages pre- and some French, Spanish and Japanese.
arranged in Hanoi but there’s a couple of
standout local operators in town that are Topas Travel HIKING
well worth looking into.
(%020-387 1331; www.topastravel.vn; 21 Ɖ Muong
As well as hiking tours, many companies Hoa) High-quality trekking, biking and vil-
offer more culturally focused trips such lage encounters. Options include a stay in
as community-based tours to the nearby Topas Ecolodge or the Nam Cang Riverside
Hmong village of Sin Chai, with an over- House.
night in the village to learn about textiles or
music. Other popular communities to visit 4 Sleeping
include the Giay village of Ta Van and the
Hmong village of Matra. Many hotels raise rates on Fridays and Sat-
urdays with the weekend influx of domestic
oSapa O’Chau HIKING tourists.

(%020-377 1166; www.sapaochau.com; 8 Ɖ A lot of hotels give a much better walk-in
Thac Bac; h6.30am-6.30pm) S Excellent rate than what is advertised on hotel book-
local company offering day walks, longer ing websites. Sapa does get busy, though, so
homestay treks, Bac Ha market trips and if there’s somewhere in particular you want
Fanispan hikes. It also runs culturally im- to stay, prebook directly with the hotel itself
mersive tours that focus on handicrafts for a better rate.
and farmstays. Profits provide training to
Hmong children in a learning centre. Sapa Graceful Hotel HOSTEL $
(%020-377 3388; www.gracefulhotel.com; 9 Ɖ
Phan Si; dm/d US$5/18; W) This bijoux hostel
Sapa Sisters HIKING has bags of homey charm and knows how

(%020-377 3388; www.sapasisters.com; Sapa to pull backpackers in, with two-for-one
Graceful Hotel, 9 Ɖ Phan Si; h8am-5pm) Run by
a group of savvy and knowledgeable Hmong beer happy hours every evening. The dorm
women, Sapa Sisters offers fully custom- is a squeeze, but the foyer has comfy sofas

140 Thai Binh Hotel HOTEL $$
and stacks of books, and as it’s the base for (%020-387 1212; www.thaibinhhotel.com; 45 Ð
Sapa Sisters, there’s a ton of trekking info Ham Rong; d incl breakfast US$28-35; W) The
on offer. Thai Binh enjoys a quiet location near Sa-

Go Sapa Hostel HOSTEL $ pa’s church. Rooms are spacious and clean,
(%020-387 1198; www.gosapahostel.com; 25 Ɖ
Thac Bac; dm 110,000-150,000d, d 400,000d; decked out with crisp pine furniture and
cosy bedspreads, and boasting some of the
iW) Up the hill from central Sapa, this nicest bathrooms you’ll see for this price in
set-up has a multitude of eight-bed dorms
(with lockers) set around a communal court- Sapa.

yard. More expensive dorm options come Sapa Paradise View HOTEL $$
(%020-387 2683; www.sapaparadiseviewhotel.
with private bathroom and some have tiny com; 18 P Xuan Huan; d incl breakfast from US$45;
balconies. There are washing machines, free
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNlaoepreatphi nwge st V i e tn a m computers and bike rentals. aiW) Despite the name, there’s not much
of a view but this is more than made up for
Luong Thuy Family by well-equipped, large and comfortable

Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ rooms with plenty of locally inspired deco-
(%020-387 2310; www.familysapa.com; 28 Ð Mu-
ong Hoa; dm US$5, d US$15-20, tw US$25; iW) ration touches. Deluxe options have in-room
laptops.
This friendly guesthouse has a decent,
though dark, dorm and snug private rooms.
Holiday Sapa HOTEL $$
(%020-387 3874; www.holidaysapa.com; 16 Ɖ Mu-
Motorcycles and bikes can be rented, trek- ong Hoa; r incl breakfast US$30-50; aW) It’s no
king and transport arranged, and there are
valley views from front balconies. surprise this hotel is a favourite with tour
groups, as the service here is on the ball and
Phuong Nam Hotel HOTEL $ there’s a wide variety of rooms on offer. You
(%020-387 1286; www.phuongnamhotelsapa.com;
33 Ɖ Phan Si; dm/r incl breakfast US$7/20; W) In- really want to bag one on the top floor for
the views. The restaurant serves excellent
side this nondescript concrete hotel there’s a Vietnamese dishes.
decent budget deal to be had, with two four-
bed dorms with large beds. Private rooms
Sapa Lodge HOTEL $$
(%020-377 2885; www.sapalodgehotel.com; 18
are basic but spick-and-span, though don’t Ɖ Muong Hoa; r incl breakfast US$30-45; aW)
bother on weekends when the room price is
hiked to a ridiculous US$35. Sapa Lodge is a friendly, well-run place with
plenty of small-hotel appeal. Upstairs you’ll
oNam Cang Riverside House HOMESTAY $$ find smart, light-filled rooms with soaring
views of the surrounding mountains. Cheap-
(www.namcangriversidelodge.com; Nam Cang er US$30 rooms have internal windows only
village; d US$60) Located in a valley, on the and are a tad claustrophobic.
outskirts of teensy Nam Cang village, 36km
from Sapa, this stylish wooden house with Cat Cat View Hotel HOTEL $$
nine rooms is a collaboration between a Red (%020-387 1946; www.catcathotel.com; 46 Ð
Dzao family and Topas Travel. This is a Sapa Phan Si; r incl breakfast US$30-50, f apt US$150-
stay replete with stunning scenery and lo- 180; aiW) There’s plenty of choice at this
cal hill-tribe life. The house is right beside rambling, family-run spot with comfortable
a trickling river and backed by lush green pine-trimmed rooms over nine floors, many
forest. opening out onto communal terraces with

Botanic Sapa HOTEL $$ views. The spacious apartments are a great
(%020-387 3879; www.botanicsapa.com; 8a
Cau May Alley; r US$25-30) The cosy Botanic option for travelling families or groups of
friends.
stands out mostly due to friendly owners
Minh and his wife Van, who are wonderful Sapa Luxury Hotel HOTEL $$
(%020-387 2771; www.sapaluxuryhotel.com; 36 Ð
hosts. Decent-sized rooms, brightened with Phan Si; r incl breakfast 600,000-800,000d; iW)
local textiles, come with fresh white linen
and modern bathrooms, and everything is Large rooms may be a tad bland but come
with modern bathrooms, wooden floors and
kept spotlessly clean. The location, down their own laptops. The cheaper rooms only
a steep staircase off P Cau May, won’t suit
everyone. have poky windows so can be a bit on the
dark side.

141

Topas Ecolodge ECOLODGE $$$ ple cafe attached to the Sapa O’Chau tour
(%020-387 2404; www.topasecolodge.com; bun- company. Also does good breakfasts and a
galows US$115-140; iW) S Overlooking few simple snacks.
a plunging valley, 18km from Sapa, this
ecolodge has stone-and-thatch bungalows Barbecue Restaurants VIETNAMESE $
(Ɖ Phan Si; meals around 70,000-120,000d;
with front balconies to make the most of the hnoon-11pm) Several easygoing spots along
magnificent views. The whole project is sus-
tainable and environmentally friendly, with the northern end of Ɖ Phan Si specialise in
grilled meat and vegetables. Pull up a pew at
solar energy providing the power. Hiking, one of the simple tables and tuck in.
biking and market tours are available.

Victoria Sapa Resort RESORT HOTEL $$$ Hotpot Stalls VIETNAMESE $
(Ɖ Xuan Vien; meals around 50,000d; h11am-
(%020-387 1522; www.victoriahotels-asia.com; P 11pm) Dig into Vietnamese-style lau (hotpot; N o rth e rn Vi e tna m ENS aotpriatnhgw e st V i e tn a m
Hoang Dieu; r US$180, deluxe US$250; aiWs)
This alpine-style hotel gets top marks for its meat stew cooked with local vegetables, cab-
bage and mushroom) at these stalls.
sublime service and beautifully decorated
communal areas that highlight local culture.
The rooms themselves, within well-tended oHill Station Signature

manicured lawns, are on the small side but Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$
(www.thehillstation.com; 37 Ɖ Phan Si; meals
have private balconies and newly renovated 90,000-180,000d; h7am-11pm; W) A showcase
bathrooms. Facilities include two bars and
a spa. of Hmong cuisine with cool Zen decor and
superb views. Dishes include flash-cooked
pork with lime, ash-baked trout in banana
U Sapa HOTEL $$$ leaves, and traditional Hmong-style black
(%020-387 1996; www.usapavietnam.com; 8 P
Cau May; r from US$180; aiW) Slap in the pudding. Tasting sets of local rice and corn
wine are also of interest to curious travel-
centre of town, U Sapa has taken over the ling foodies. Don’t miss trying the delicate
old government-run hotel and converted
it into a rather sophisticated place offering rainbow-trout rolls; think of them as ‘Sapa
sushi’.
contemporary-s­tyled rooms decked out in
earthy shades of olive and beige, and featur-
ing all the bells and whistles you’d expect at Nature View VIETNAMESE $$
(51 Ð Phan Si; meals 90,000-150,000d; h8am-
a top-end place. Some rooms have tiny balco- 10pm; Wv) You’ve got to love the photos of
nies looking out onto the main street below.
the owner’s kids on the walls at this friendly
5 Eating spot with great valley views. Look forward
to decent Vietnamese and European food
There are plentiful restaurants along P Cau and just maybe Sapa’s best fruit smoothies.
May serving identikit menus of Vietnamese Those who aren’t fans of tofu should try the
and Western staples. Look out for hill-tribe sizzling tofu with lemongrass and be con-
specialities utilising Sapa’s wild mushrooms verted. Don’t worry – it’s not all vegetarian
and herbs and local fish. food.

For eating on a budget, humble Vietnam- Baguette & Chocolat CAFE $$
ese restaurants huddle on Ð Tue Tinh, and (%020-387 1766; Ð Thac Bac; cakes from 30,000d,
the stalls south of the church can’t be beaten snacks & meals 70,000-160,000d; h7am-10pm;
for bun cha (barbecued pork). W) S Head to this converted villa for a fine

Little Sapa VIETNAMESE $ breakfast, baguette or tasty slab of lemon
(18 P Cau May; meals 50,000-80,000d; h8am-
10pm) One of the better-value eateries along tart. Many of the staff are students at the
Hoa Sua School for disadvantaged youth
touristy P Cau May, Little Sapa also lures in and are being trained in the cooking and
locals. Steer clear of the largely mediocre
European dishes and concentrate on the hospitality industry.

Vietnamese menu. Hill Station Deli & Boutique CAFE $$
(7 Ɖ Muong Hoa; meals 125,000-165,000d; h7am-
Sapa O’Chau CAFE $ 10.30pm; W) With cheese and charcuterie
(www.sapaochau.org; 8 Ɖ Thac Bac; snacks from
20,000d; h6.30am-6.30pm; W) S Don’t miss plates, pork terrine and local smoked trout,
the Hill Station Deli & Boutique is a stylish
warming up with a cup of ginger tea sweet- addition to the Sapa dining scene. Factor in
ened with Sapa mountain honey at this sim-
some of Sapa’s best coffee and an interesting

142 if it’s a quiet night. Bar prices are reasonable,
array of international beers and wines, and though, so it’s always worth checking out.
you’ve got the most cosmopolitan option in
town. 7 Shopping

Viet Emotion INTERNATIONAL $$ Lots of the minority women and girls have
(%020-387 2559; www.vietemotion.com; 27 P gone into the souvenir business, and Sapa’s
Cau May; meals 55,000-230,000d; h7am-11pm; streets are packed with handicraft peddlers.
W) This intimate bistro features a cosy fire- The older women in particular are canny
place for cold mountain nights. The menu traders and known for their strong-armed
rambles from pizza, pasta and steaks to selling tactics. When negotiating prices,
Vietnamese with a couple of Sapa special- hold your ground, but avoid aggressive
ities, such as herbal medicine hotpot (with bargaining.
lemongrass and mountain mushrooms).
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m DSNaropirnatkhi wnge st V i e tn a m Note that on some cheaper textiles, the
Sapa Memories VIETNAMESE $$ dyes used are not set, which can turn any-
(29 Ɖ Muong Hoa; meals 70,000-125,000d; h8am- thing the material touches (including your
10.30pm; W) You’ll find all the usual Viet- skin) a muddy blue-green colour. Wash the
namese staples here but there’s also more fabric separately in cold salted water to stop
adventurous local dishes, including fried the dye from running, and wrap items in
frogs and venison. The dinky terrace at the plastic bags before packing them in your
front is a great place to sit back and watch luggage.
Sapa daily life go by.
If you’ve arrived in town with insufficient
Gecko INTERNATIONAL $$ warm clothing, stores along P Cau May sell
(%020-377 1504; Ð Ham Rong; meals 120,000- lots of ‘brand-name’ walking shoes, parkas
180,000d; W) This French-owned place has a and thermals. Some of it might even be au-
rustic feel and a menu of flavoursome coun- thentic, but don’t count on it.

try cooking that jumps from French classics Indigo Cat HANDICRAFTS

and steak options to local fish served with (www.facebook.com/indigocatsapa; 46 Ɖ Phan Si;
h9am-7pm) This Hmong-owned handicrafts
wild Sapa mushrooms. shop offers a wonderful selection of inter-

6 Drinking esting local crafts, including bags, clothing,
pillows and belts. Co-owner Pang speaks
A bar crawl in Sapa will take in a maximum good English and her small son Sanji is a
of three or four venues – this is not a party real charmer.
town.

Mountain Bar & Pub BAR Hemp & Embroidery CRAFTS

(2 Ð Muong Hoa; hnoon-11pm; W) Danger- (www.facebook.com/hempandembroidery; 50 Ɖ
Phan Si; h9am-8pm) A super-friendly shop
ously strong cocktails, cold beer and ultra-­ owned by a charming Hmong lady, selling
competitive games of table football conspire
to make this Sapa’s go-to place for a great gorgeous textiles all made in the Sapa area.
There are some divine bedspreads and cush-
night out. Even if it’s freezing outside, a ion covers to browse through and the sales
shisha beside the open fire will soon perk
up the chilliest of travellers. Try the warm pitch is distinctly low-key, which many trav-
ellers will heartily appreciate.
apple wine for some highland bliss.

Color Bar BAR 88 Information

(www.facebook.com/colorbar; 56 Ɖ Phan Si; Wi-fi is commonplace in hotels and many restau-
hnoon-11pm; W) Owned by a Hanoi artist, rants and cafes.
this atmospheric spot ticks all the boxes
with reggae, table football, shisha and ice- Many hotels and businesses will change euros
cold Bia Lao Cai. A great refuelling option and US dollars.
on the steep walk up from Cat Cat village.
The Sapa Tourist Map (20,000d) is an excel-
Hmong Sisters BAR lent 1:75,000 scale map of the walking trails and
attractions around Sapa. The Sapa Trekking Map
(Ð Muong Hoa; hnoon-late; W) This spacious is a worthwhile hand-drawn map showing trek-
bar with pool tables and an open fire has king routes and the town.
pretty decent music, but can feel a bit sparse Agribank (P Cau May; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri,
ATM 24hr)

143

BIDV Bank (% 020-387 2569; Ð Ngu Chi Son; MINIBUS
h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat, ATM 24hr) Minibuses to Lao Cai (30,000d, 30 minutes)
Main Post Office (Ð Ham Rong; h 8am-6pm leave every half-hour between 6am and 6pm,
Mon-Fri) International phone calls can also be from a bus stop near Sapa Church.
made here.
Sapa Tourism (% 020-387 3239; www. Hotels and travel agents offer minibus tours
sapa-tourism.com; 103 Ð Xuan Vien; h7.30- to Bac Ha (from US$20 return) for the Sunday
11.30am & 1.30-5pm) Helpful English-speaking market. It’s cheaper, but much slower, to go to
staff offering details about transport, trekking Bac Ha by public minibus, changing buses in
and weather. Internet access is free for 15 min- Lao Cai.
utes, and the website is also a mine of useful
information. TRAIN N o rth e rn Vi e tna m GNL aeootrttCihanwigeTshteVriee t&nAawmay
There’s no direct train line to Sapa, but there
88 Getting There & Away are regular services from Hanoi to Lao Cai. Most
hotels and travel agencies can book train tickets
The gateway to Sapa is Lao Cai, 38km away via back to Hanoi.
a well-maintained highway. An even speedier
bypass road, which will cut travel time to around 88 Getting Around
20 minutes, was being built during our last visit.
If you’re using private transport, stick with the The best way to get around compact Sapa is to
highway – it’s got the views. walk. Bicycles can be hired, but you’ll spend half
your time pushing them up steep hills.
BICYCLE & MOTORCYCLE
Motorcycling from Hanoi to Sapa is feasible, For excursions, motorbikes are available from
but it’s a long 380km trip. Put your bike on the about US$5 a day. If you’ve never ridden a mo-
train to Lao Cai and save yourself the hassle. The torbike before, this is not the place to learn. The
38km between Lao Cai and Sapa is all uphill – weather can be wet and treacherous at any time
hell on a bicycle. of the year, and roads are steep and regularly
damaged by floods and heavy rain.
BUS
Sapa’s bus station (Ɖ Dien Bien) is located in Consider hiring a xe om. Local drivers hang
the north of town, but you can also check sched- out on the corner of P May Cai and Ɖ Phan Si.
ules at Sapa Tourism. To Hanoi (250,000d, 10 Some sample prices: one way/return to Cat Cat
hours) buses leave at 7.30am, 8.30am, 4pm 40,000/70,000d; Sin Chai 60,000/100,000d;
and 5pm; and there are two sleeper services Ta Van 80,000/120,000d; and Thac Bac (Silver
(300,000d, six hours) that take the toll road Waterfall) 70,000/120,000d.
direct to Hanoi at 9pm and 10pm. Heading to
Lai Chau there are 10 buses between 6.30am Lao Cai
and 5.15pm.
% 020 / POP 76,836
There is no direct service to Dien Bien Phu,
Halong Bay or Bac Ha. You need to take a mini- Lao Cai is squeezed right next to the
bus to Lao Cai and change there. Vietnam–C­ hina border. Razed in the Chi-
nese invasion of 1979, most of the build-
ings here are modern. The border crossing
slammed shut during the 1979 war and only

GETTING TO CHINA: LAO CAI TO KUNMING

Getting to the border The Chinese border at the Lao Cai/Hekou border crossing is
about 3km from Lao Cai train station, a journey done by xe om (around 25,000d) or taxi
(around 50,000d).

At the border The border is open daily between 7am and 10pm Vietnam time. Note that
China is one hour ahead of Vietnam. You’ll need to have a pre-arranged visa for China,
and border crossing formalities usually take around one hour. China is separated from
Vietnam by a road bridge and a separate rail bridge over the Song Hong (Red River).
Note that travellers have reported Chinese officials confiscating Lonely Planet China
guides at this border, so you may want to try masking the cover.

Moving on The new Hekou bus station is around 6km from the border post. There
are regular departures to Kunming, including sleeper buses that leave at 7.20pm and
7.30pm, getting into Kunming at around 7am. There are also four daily trains.

144
BUSES FROM LAO CAI

DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY
8 6.30am, 5.30pm
Dien Bien Phu from 235,000 5 5.30am, 12.30pm
12 7.15pm, 7.45pm
Ha Giang 120,000 10 7.30am, 8.30am, 9am
5-6 7.30pm, 8.30pm, 9pm
Halong City (Bai Chay) 360,000 3 11 services between
5.30am & 4.15pm
Hanoi 230,000

Hanoi (sleeper service) from 300,000

Lai Chau 90,000

N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNL aloeoretCphai nwi ge s&t EVaiteitnnga m reopened in 1993. Now it’s a bustling spot 88 Information
fuelled by growing cross-border trade.
Be wary of being short-changed by black-market
For travellers, Lao Cai is the jumping-off currency traders, especially on the Chinese side.
point when journeying between Hanoi and If you do need to change money, just change a
Sapa by train, and a stop-off when heading small amount.
further north to Kunming in China. With There are two ATMs by the train station.
Sapa just a half-hour hop away, it’s no place BIDV Bank (Ð Thuy Hoa; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri,
to linger, but it offers everything China-­ 8-11.30am Sat) on the west bank of the river
bound travellers will need for an overnight changes cash.
stay.
88 Getting There & Away
4 Sleeping & Eating
Lao Cai is about 340km from Hanoi. Most travel-
The Nest HOTEL $ lers prefer to take the train rather than the road.
(%0912 356 563; 340 Ɖ Nguyen Hue; d/tr
200,000/300,000d; W) This simple place is BUS
opposite Lao Cai train station. The large, The new speedway toll road connecting Lao Cai
high-ceilinged triple rooms, facing the and Hanoi can shave hours off bus journey times,
street, are a much better deal than the poky, but at the moment is only used by sleeper buses.
dark doubles. The bus station, at the end of Ɖ Pha Dinh Phung,
is two blocks west of the train station.

Thien Hai Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL $$ MINIBUS
(%020-383 3666; www.thienhaihotel.com; 306 Minibuses for Sapa (30,000d, 30 minutes) leave
P Khanh Yen; d incl breakfast 600,000d; aW) A at least hourly between 5am and 6pm from
hop-skip-jump to Lao Cai train station right the car park in front of Lao Cai train station.
next door, the Thien Hai is a solid option Minibuses to Bac Ha (70,000d, 2½ hours) leave
with big business-brisk-style rooms and pro- from the minibus terminal next to the Song Hong
fessional staff. (Red River) bridge; there are seven daily services
at 6.30am, 8.15am, 9am, 11.30am, noon, 2pm
Viet Emotion CAFE $ and 3pm.
(65 Pha Dinh Phung; meals 65,000-180,000d;
h7am-10pm; aW) This branch is an offshoot TAXI
of the successful Sapa cafe, with a handy lo- A taxi to Sapa costs about US$25; it’s around
cation midway between the train and bus US$50 to Bac Ha.
stations. It does good breakfasts and decent
pizza. TRAIN
Virtually everyone travelling to and from Hanoi
CAFE $ uses the train.
Pineapple
(%020-383 5939; Pha Dinh Phung; meals 80,000- There are four daily services to Hanoi from
125,000d; h7am-10pm; aW) A stylish Sapa-­ Lao Cai train station. Cheapest is the LC4 train
esque cafe. Try the full English breakfast or (hard/soft seat 130,000/215,000d, 10 hours),
a salad, pizza or baguette. To find it from the which leaves at 9.50am. The other three servic-
train station, cross the main road and head es are all sleepers (425,000d, eight hours); the
west down the street directly in front of you SP8 leaves at 1.15pm; the SP2 at 8.20pm; and
for around 100m. SP4 at 9.10pm.

Hotels and travel agencies in both Hanoi and Bac Ha e# 0 145
Sapa can book tickets, or you can book at the A 0
station yourself. 200 m
0.1 miles
Several companies operate special private rail B
carriages that hitch a ride on the main trains, Ngo
including ET Pumpkin (% 0438-295 571; www. Na Kheo (3km); ï# â# Thai Giang
et-pumpkin.com; sleeper berth US$42), Livit- 1 Ban Pho (3.5km) DD2Phu (4km);
rans (% 0437-350 069; www.livitrantrain.com;
sleeper berth US$34) and the exclusive Victoria Ðÿ#20-9ÿ# 6D c Uyen Lung Phin 1
Express (www.victoriahotels-asia.com), which is Market (12km);
only available to guests at Sapa’s Victoria Sapa Can Cau Market
Resort. (20km)

7 N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SBNiaogcrhttHhsaw&e sAtctViiveittni easmTran Bac
8 ú##Ø
Na Co Riverì# Animal
4 Market
D ÿ#
Market
Ɖ
3 ú# 9

Bac Ha 2 Sin Chai (1km); 5 Bac Ha æ# 1 ›# 2
Phec Bung ÿ# Market (100m)
% 020 / POP 7400 ò#
(3.5km); Coc Ly
Sleepy Bac Ha wakes up for the riot of col- Market (35km);
our and commerce that is its Sunday mar- Lao Cai (63km)
ket, when the lanes fill to choking point and
villagers flock in from the hills and valleys. AB
Once the barter, buy and sell is done and the
day-tripper tourist buses from Sapa have Bac Ha
left, the town rolls over and goes back to bed
for the rest of the week. æ Top Sights
1 Bac Ha Market .....................................B2
Despite being surrounded by country-
side just as lush and interesting as Sapa, æ Sights
Bac Ha has somehow flown under the 2 Vua Meo ............................................... B1
radar as a trekking base so far. In town,
woodsmoke fills the morning air, the main Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
street is completely bereft of hawkers, and 3 Green Sapa Tour .................................A2
chickens and pigs snuffle for scraps in the Ngan Nga Bac Ha .........................(see 5)
back lanes where a small clutch of tradi-
tional adobe houses valiantly clings on in ÿ Sleeping
the age of concrete. 4 Congfu Hotel ........................................A2
5 Ngan Nga Bac Ha ................................A2
Just out of town, trails meander through 6 Sao Mai Hotel....................................... A1
swooping verdant valleys with their hill- 7 Toan Thang Hotel ................................ A1
slope rice terraces, connecting the tiny vil-
lages of 11 hill-tribe groups. The colourful ú Eating
Flower Hmong are the most visible, but 8 Hoang Yen Restaurant ........................A2
other ethnic minorities in the area include 9 Restaurant 36 ......................................A2
Dzao, Giay (Nhang), Han (Hoa), Xa Fang,
Lachi, Nung, Phula, Tay, Thai and Thulao. hundreds of day trippers from Sapa start
arriving.
If you’re not worried about a lack of in-
town amenities, and are turned off by Sapa’s Flower Hmong women wear several lay-
hustle, Bac Ha may just tick your boxes as an ers of dazzling clothing. These include an
alternative base from where to launch your- elaborate collar-cum-shawl that’s pinned at
self out on highland hikes. the neck and an apron-style garment; both
are made of tightly woven strips of mul-
1 Sights & Activities ticoloured fabric, often with a frilly edge.
Highly ornate cuffs and ankle fabrics are
oBac Ha Market MARKET also part of their costume, as is a checked
headscarf (often electric pink or lime green).
(off Ɖ Tran Bac; hsunrise-2pm Sun) This Sunday
market is Bac Ha’s big draw. There’s an in-
creasing range of handicrafts for sale, but Vua Meo NOTABLE BUILDING

it’s still pretty much a local affair. Bac Ha (‘Cat King’ House; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm)
F The outlandish Vua Meo, built in 1921
market is a magnet for the local hill-tribe by the French to keep the Flower Hmong
people, above all the exotically attired Flow-
er Hmong. If you can, stay overnight in Bac chief Hoang A Tuong happily ensconced in
style, is a bizarre palace constructed in a
Ha on Saturday, and get here early before

146 Thai Giang Pho to Na Lo HIKING
kind of ‘oriental baroque’ style on the north-
ern edge of Bac Ha. It was being restored The looping track that winds from Bac Ha,
when we last past through town but should through the hills and down to the rice ter-
be fully open again by the time you read this. races that surround the Flower Hmong
village of Thai Giang Pho, then onward to
Can Cau Market MARKET the Tay village of Na Lo, is home to some of

(h6am-1pm Sat) This Saturday market, 20km the finest rural vistas you’ll see anywhere in
north of Bac Ha, attracts a growing number
of visitors. Some tours from Sapa now visit northern Vietnam. It’s about an 8km round
trip.
Can Cau on Saturday before moving on to
Bac Ha for the Sunday market. A few Bac Ha
Ban Pho to Na Kheo HIKING

stallholders also make the journey to Can The Flower Hmong village of Ban Pho and
Cau on Saturdays. It’s still a magnet for the the Nung settlement of Na Kheo make a
N o rth e rn Vi e tna m TNBoaocurrtHshaw e st V i e tn a m local tribal people though, including Flower good day hike from Bac Ha. The locals of
Hmong and Blue Hmong (look out for the Ban Pho are renowned for their skill in mak-
striking zigzag costume of the latter). ing (extremely potent) corn liquor and the
The market spills down a hillside with scenery of rolling hillscapes between the vil-
basic food stalls on one level and livestock lages is superbly verdant.
at the bottom of the valley, including plen-
ty of dogs. Locals will implore you to drink Nam Det to Nam Khanh HIKING

the local ruou with them. Some trips here The hike through rice fields, cinnamon for-
est and rolling hills to the Black Dzao village
include the option of an afternoon trek (for of Nam Det and onward to the Dzao village
those still standing after ruou shots) to the
nearby village of Fu La. of Nam Khanh is a popular option for an
overnight in a village homestay.

Hoang Thu Pho Waterfall WATERFALL T Tours

F There’s a waterfall near Huang Thu
Pho village, about 12km west of Bac Ha,
which has a pool big enough for swimming. Market trips can be organised in Bac Ha,
and also at travel agencies in Sapa.

Hiking Green Sapa Tour HIKING
There’s great hiking to remarkable hill-tribe
villages around Bac Ha. The Nung village of (%0912 005 952; www.bachatourist.com; Ɖ Tran
Sin Chai and Hmong village Phec Bung are Bac; h8am-6pm) Spend any time in Bac Ha
only a short stroll from town. and the irrepressible Mr Nghe of Green Sapa
Tour will no doubt find you. This one-man
Overnights in village homestays are possi- cheerleader for the considerable charms
ble on longer treks. Hiking here is best done of the area offers trekking and day trips to
with a local guide. the best of the area’s minority markets, and

longer two- to six-day adventures integrat-

BAC HA AREA MARKETS

Bac Ha’s Sunday market is firmly stamped on the day-trip agenda from Sapa – though
it’s hardly been trussed up for the tourists and is full of local flavour. But if you want to
head further out to other markets, try these on for size:

Coc Ly Market (h8.30am-1.30pm Tue) The impressive Coc Ly market attracts Dzao,
Flower Hmong, Tay and Nung people from the surrounding hills. It’s about 35km south-
west of Bac Ha along reasonably good roads. Tour operators in Bac Ha can arrange day
trips here.

Lung Phin Market (h6am-1pm Sun) Lung Phin market is between Can Cau market and
Bac Ha, about 12km from town. It’s less busy than other markets, with a really local feel,
and is a good place to move on to once the tour buses arrive in Bac Ha from Sapa.

Sin Cheng Market (h5am-2pm Wed) This market, in the remote border area of Si Ma
Cai, 40km from Bac Ha, is a vibrant and chaotic weekly hub for the local Nung and Thu-
lao ethnic minorities who live in the surrounding villages.

147

ing village homestays, and more physically BAC HA’S TOP TIPPLES
challenging mountain hiking.
One of Bac Ha’s main industries is the
Ngan Nga Bac Ha HIKING manufacture of alcoholic home brews
(rice wine, cassava wine and corn liq-
(%020-388 0286; www.bachatrip.com; 115-117 P uor). The ruou corn hooch produced by
Ngoc Uyen; h8am-9pm) Inside the Ngan Nga the Flower Hmong of Ban Pho village is
Bac Ha hotel, super-organised and highly so potent it can ignite. One of the best
enthusiastic Mr Dong offers a great range places to buy this drink is Bac Ha’s Sun-
of day hikes and longer treks with village day market, where you’ll find an entire
homestay options in the Bac Ha area, as well area devoted to it.
as one-day buffalo-riding tours. He can also
put together motorbike tours, rents motor-
bikes (US$6 per day) and can organise trips
to outlying markets. N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SBNlaoecretHphai nwge st V i e tn a m

4 Sleeping 5 Eating & Drinking

Room rates tend to increase by about 20% Of Bac Ha’s hotel restaurants, the Congfu
on weekends due to the Sunday market. Hotel has great views of the animal mar-
ket area through huge plate-glass windows,
oNgan Nga Bac Ha HOTEL $ while the Ngan Nga Bac Ha is cosy and has
(%020-388 0286; www.nganngabachahotel.com; a tasty menu. Both get very busy for Sunday
117 P Ngoc Uyen; r incl breakfast US$15-20; aW) lunch on market day.
This friendly place is above a popular res-
taurant that does a roaring trade in tasty Note that tourists are often overcharged
lau. Rooms here are the best budget deal at the cafes near the market, so establish the
in town: decent-sized and decked out with cost of food and drink up front.

a few homey touches that give them some Restaurant 36 VIETNAMESE $
(P Ngoc Uyen; meals 30,000-100,000d; h9am-
character. Bag a front room for a balcony. 9.30pm) This cute place dishes up lots of pho

Toan Thang Hotel HOTEL $ and barbecue options, as well as hotpots for
(%0962 255 410; Ɖ 20-9; r 150,000-300,000d; two (from 300,000d). Most travellers come
aW) This rickety wooden house has bare- for the great-value set menu of five dishes
bones basic rooms with fan, while at the for 100,000d.
front more expensive, rather plain rooms
run past a pot-plant-festooned terrace. Hoang Yen Restaurant VIETNAMESE $
(Ɖ Tran Bac; meals 60,000-120,000d; h7am-
There’s no English spoken but the lovely 10pm; W) Hoang Yen’s menu includes de-
lady who owns the place tries hard to help.
cent breakfast options and a set menu for
200,000d. Cheap beer is also available.
Congfu Hotel HOTEL $$
(%020-388 0254; www.congfuhotel.com; 152
P Ngoc Uyen; s US$20, d US$25-30, tr US$30; Bia Hoi Stalls BIA HOI

aiW) This place has freshly painted (Ɖ Tran Bac; h10am-11pm) The cluster of hum-
ble drinking dens along Ɖ Tran Bac is where
rooms with white linen, though the bath- to head for beer with the locals.
rooms could do with a spruce up. Book
rooms 105, 108, 205 or 208 for their floor-to-
ceiling windows overlooking Bac Ha Market. 88 Information
There’s a restaurant (meals from 60,000d)
downstairs and hiking can be arranged. Agribank (P Ngoc Uyen; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri,
8-11am Sat, ATM 24hr)

Sao Mai Hotel HOTEL $$ 88 Getting There & Away
(%020-388 0288; www.saomaibachahotel.com; Ɖ
20-9; s US$35, d US$40-60; aiW) Although Tours to Bac Ha from Sapa cost from around
most rooms veer towards the small side, US$20 per person; on the way back you can bail
they’re well looked after and jazzed up out in Lao Cai and catch the night train to Hanoi.
by dark wood furniture. The VIP rooms
(US$60) are about as fancy pants as it gets BUS
around these parts. Reception staff are usu- Bac Ha’s bus station is just out of the town
ally keen to negotiate. centre, across the Na Co River. To Hanoi there’s
a 4.30am service (11 hours), and two sleeper
buses at noon and 8.30pm (300,000d, seven

148 N o rth e rn Vi e tna m TNHoaourGrtisha nwge sPtr oV iveitnncaem region, but its proximity to the Chinese bor-
hours). Buses run hourly between 6am and 4pm der still keeps visitor numbers at a low level.
to Lao Cai (70,000d, 2½ hours). Coming into
town from Lao Cai, buses usually drop you in the Travel permits (US$10) are required to
centre of town, near the hotels. travel on the road north from Tam Son to
Heading east to Ha Giang, there are two op- Dong Van and Meo Vac, but these are simply
tions (we recommend checking the latest infor- paid directly to whichever hotel you choose
mation with either Mr Dong at Ngan Nga Bac Ha to overnight in along the way.
hotel or Mr Nghe at Green Sapa Tour as Ha Giang
schedules change regularly). The province is best managed with a car
Option one is to catch a xe om from Bac Ha, and driver or by motorbike. If you’re going
35km northeast to Xin Man (400,000d, 2½ to splurge on private transport once during
hours). Then the 12.30pm bus (150,000d, your trip, this is the time to do it.
four hours) from Xin Man to Ha Giang. Option
two is the bus south from Bac Ha to Bac Ngam Public transport is improving and it’s
(70,000d, 30 minutes, 6.30am and noon), relatively simple to journey by bus from Ha
followed by another bus from Bac Ngam to Ha Giang city to Dong Van, but at the time of
Giang (230,000d, five hours, 7am and 12.30pm). writing there was still no public transport
The bus from Bac Ngam always waits for the bus from Dong Van onward to Meo Vac. How-
from Bac Ha to arrive before leaving. ever, there are buses, along the low road,
between Meo Vac and Ha Giang city, so by
MOTORCYCLE & TAXI hiring a xe om or taxi in Dong Van for the
A xe om/taxi to Lao Cai costs US$25/70, or to stretch to Meo Vac, it is entirely possible to
Sapa US$30/80. do a loop back to Ha Giang city. Heading
east from Meo Vac to Cao Bang continues to
Ha Giang Province be a headache as there is no public transport
from Meo Vac to Bao Lac.
% 0219 / POP 79,000
Whichever way you tackle Ha Giang,
Ha Giang is the final frontier in northern Vi- you’ll be among only a handful of travellers
etnam, an amazing landscape of limestone to the area and will experience some of In-
pinnacles and granite outcrops. The far dochina’s most jaw-dropping scenery.
north of the province has some of the most
spectacular scenery in the country, and the Ha Giang
trip between Yen Minh and Dong Van, and
then across the Mai Pi Leng Pass to Meo Vac Ha Giang is somewhere to recharge the
is quite mind-blowing. Ha Giang should be batteries on the long road north. This
one of the most popular destinations in this town, bisected by the broad river Lo, is a
provincial capital with clean streets and an
PAN HOU ECOLODGE understated ambience. The main drag is P
Nguyen Trai, which runs north–south par-
Pan Hou Ecolodge (%0219-383 3535; alleling the west bank of the Lo for 3km or
www.panhou-village.com; Pan Hou village; so. You’ll find hotels, banks and restaurants
s/d incl breakfast US$40/50; W) is tucked on this road.
away in a hidden river valley in the High
Song Chau mountains. It has simple There is little to keep you in the town itself,
bungalows, powered by solar, and is set but the spectacular limestone outcrops that
in a riot of tropical gardens and fronted are soaring skywards over the suburbs hint
by a thatched restaurant pavilion (meals at the amazing scenery in the surrounding
US$12). Traditional spa treatments and hinterland.
baths, infused with medicinal healing
herbs, are available, and day hikes and T Tours
longer treks to ethnic-minority villages
can be arranged. Johnny Nam Tram MOTORBIKING TOUR

From Tan Quang village, south of Ha (%0978 159 123, 0917 797 269; info@rockypla
Giang, Pan Hou is 36km west up a gor- teau.com; Group 15, Nguyen Ward) Highly ex-
geously scenic twisty-turny mountain perienced in the back roads and byways of
road. northern Vietnam, Johnny Nam Tram is an
excellent contact for motorbike rental or or-
ganised bike tours around Ha Giang prov-
ince. Tours by car and trekking trips can also
be arranged.