Lonely Planet Vietnam

There are also a growing number of connec- 199
tions to Laos, China, Taiwan and South Korea. TAXI
Mai Linh (% 0511-356 5656) For metered taxis.
Domestic services to destinations such as
HCMC, Hanoi, Haiphong, Dalat, Nha Trang, Can Around Danang
Tho and Haiphong are operated by regional
carriers including Vietnam Airlines, VietJet Air % 0511
and Jetstar.

BUS Nui Son Tra (Monkey Mountain) C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SAGore otututihnn-dgCDeAnartnorauannlgdV i e tnam
Danang’s intercity bus station (Map p200;
% 0511-382 1265; Ð Dien Bien Phu) is 3km west ELEV 850M
of the city centre. A metered taxi to the riverside
will cost around 70,000d. Jutting out into the sea like a giant pair of
Mickey Mouse ears, the Son Tra peninsula
Buses leave for all major centres, including is crowned by the peak that the American
Quy Nhon (130,000d, six hours, six daily). soldiers called Monkey Mountain. Overlook-
ing Danang to the south and the Hai Van
For Laos, there are daily buses to Savannakhet Pass to the north, it was a prized radar and
at 8pm (from 300,000d, 14 hours) and a daily communications base during the American
service to Pakse at 6.30am (from 340,000d, 13 War. Until recently it was a closed military
hours). Buses to the Lao Bao border alone are area, but new roads and beach resorts are
150,000d (six hours); you may have to change opening up the peninsula.
buses at Dong Ha.
The highlight is the view from the sum-
Yellow public buses to Hoi An (18,000d, one mit, which is stupendous on a clear day.
hour, every 30 minutes to 6pm) travel along Ð All that remains of the American military
Bach Dang. The price is usually posted inside the presence are a couple of radar domes (still
door if any bus drivers attempt to overcharge. used by the Vietnamese military and a no-go
for tourists) next to a helicopter pad, now a
Sinh Tourist open-tour buses pick up from the lookout point. The steep road to the summit
company office on Ð Bach Dang twice daily to both is pretty deserted and road conditions can
Hue (89,000d, 2½ hours) and Hoi An (79,000d, be iffy. If you’re going on a motorbike, you’ll
one hour), and can advise on travel to Laos. need a powerful one to make it to the top.
The turn-off to this road is about 3km before
CAR & MOTORCYCLE Tien Sa Port and marked by a blue sign that
A car to Hoi An costs around 500,000d via your reads ‘Son Tra Eco-Tourism’.
hotel or a local travel agency, while xe om will do
it for around 150,000d. Bargain hard if you want Most Vietnamese who come here head
to stop at the Marble Mountains or China Beach to one of the beach resorts along the pen-
en route. insula’s southwestern coast. The other big
attraction on the peninsula is Linh Ung
TRAIN (Map p200), a colossal Buddha statue po-
Danang’s train station (202 Ð Hai Phong) has sitioned on a lotus-shaped platform that
services to all destinations on the north–south looks south to Danang city; there’s a mon-
main line. astery here too.

The train ride to Hue is one of the best in the On the other side of Nui Son Tra, next
country – it’s worth taking as an excursion in to the port, is sheltered Tien Sa Beach. A
itself. memorial near the port commemorates
an unfortunate episode of colonial history.
88 Getting Around Spanish-­led Filipino and French troops at-
tacked Danang in August 1858, ostensibly
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT to end Emperor Tu Duc’s mistreatment of
Danang’s airport is 2km west of the city centre. Catholics. The city quickly fell, but the in-
There is no airport bus and a taxi is around vaders were hit by sickness. By the summer
60,000d. of 1859, the number of invaders who had
died of illness was 20 times the number who
BICYCLE had been killed in combat.
Vy Bicycle (Map p194; % 0914 575 450; www.
facebook.com/vy.bicycle; 202 Ð Bach Dang; Many of the tombs of Spanish and French
h 8am-8pm) Handy city-side spot if you wish soldiers are below a chapel (Map p200) that’s
to hire two wheels and explore the beach area located behind Tien Sa Port.
east across the river.

CYCLO & XE OM
Danang has plenty of motorbike taxis and cyclo
drivers. Trips around town shouldn’t cost more
than 35,000d.

200

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Map (p194) : 2
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CD

4444

æ Sights 10 Gold 2 Hotel ............................................C3
1 Chapel .....................................................C1 Sofia Boutique Hotel .......................(see 7)
2 Ho Chi Minh Museum ............................ C3
3 Linh Ung ..................................................D1 ú Eating
11 Bay Ban ................................................... D1
ÿ Sleeping Burger Bros ...................................(see 10)
4 a la carte................................................. C2 12 Fatfish .....................................................C2
5 Bien Nho Hotel....................................... D4
6 Eena Hotel .............................................. C2 û Drinking & Nightlife
7 Frangipani Boutique Hotel .................... C2 Tam's Pub & Surf Shop ................(see 10)
8 Funtastic Beach Hostel ......................... C2 Top Rooftop Lounge ...................... (see 4)
9 Fusion Maia ............................................ D3

4 Sleeping & Eating over a sheltered white-sandy beach, these
handsome villas are well maintained, spa-
There’s some construction around the coast- cious and attractive, and all have kitchens,
line, but Son Tra is largely quiet and a de- hardwood floors and sea views. They are
light to explore by motorbike. ideal for family stays. Make bookings on-
line; deals can be as cheap as US$100 are
Son Tra Resort & Spa HOTEL $$$ possible.
(%0511-392 4924; www.sontra.com.vn; Son Tra;
villa US$200-250; aWs) Looking directly

InterContinental Danang 201
leads to Linh Ong Pagoda. Behind it, a path
Sun Peninsula Resort HOTEL $$$ heads through two tunnels to caverns that
(%0511-393 8888; http://danang.intercontinental. contain several Buddhas and Cham carv-
com; Son Tra; r/ste from US$300/450; naWs) ings. A flight of steps also leads up to anoth-
Spilling down a hillside, this huge resort er cave, partially open to the sky, with two
hotel dominates this corner of Son Tra, with seated Buddhas in it. A recently installed
golf buggies whisking its pampered guests elevator is also available to replace the first
around the landscaped grounds. There’s an staircase.
impressive spa, fully loaded fitness centre
and a huge main pool. Immediately to the left as you enter Ong
Chon Gate is the main path to the rest of
Bay Ban SEAFOOD $$ Thuy Son, beginning with Xa Loi Pagoda,
(Map p200; %0511-221 4237; Son Tra; meals a beautiful stone tower that overlooks the
80,000-250,000d; h11am-9.30pm) Seafood coast. Stairs off the main pathway lead to
restaurant that’s very popular with Viet- Vong Hai Da, a viewpoint with a panorama
namese families on weekends and holidays, of China Beach through scraggly trees. The
but usually quiet the rest of the time. Eat stone-paved path continues to the right and
right over the water in one of the thatched into a minigorge. On the left is Van Thong
shelters in the bay. Fresh fish, spider crab, Cave. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SA loreoueutphni-dnCgDe na&tnEraaantlgi nVgi e tnam
eel and shrimp dishes all feature.
Exit the gorge through a battle-scarred
Nam O Beach masonry gate. There’s a rocky path to the
right leading to Linh Nham, a tall chimney-­
Nam O Beach, 15km northwest of Danang, shaped cave with a small altar inside. Near-
was where the first US combat troops land- by, another path leads to Hoa Nghiem, a
ed in South Vietnam in 1965. There are a few shallow cave with a Buddha. Left of here is
hotels, but the beach is not as attractive as cathedral-like Huyen Khong Cave, lit by
south of Danang. an opening to the sky. The entrance to this
spectacular chamber is guarded by two ad-
The villagers make nuoc mam (fish ministrative mandarins (to the left) and two
sauce) and goi ca – raw fish fillets marinat- military mandarins (to the right).
ed in a special sauce and coated in a spicy
powder. It’s served with fresh vegetables on Scattered about the cave are Buddhist
rice-paper rolls. You’ll find it for sale on the and Confucian shrines; note the inscrip-
beach in summer or look for it in the village. tions carved into the stone walls. On the
right, a door leads to a chamber with two
Marble Mountains stalactites – during the American War this
was used as a VC field hospital. Inside is a
Just off the China Beach coastal road, the plaque dedicated to the Women’s Artillery
Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son) consist Group, which destroyed 19 US aircraft from
of five craggy marble outcrops topped with a base below the mountains in 1972.
pagodas. Each mountain is named for the
natural element it’s said to represent: Thuy Local buses between Danang and Hoi An
Son (Water), Moc Son (Wood), Hoa Son (tickets 18,000d) can drop you at Marble
(Fire), Kim Son (Metal or Gold) and Tho Mountains, 10km south of Danang.
Son (Earth). The villages that have sprung
up at the base of the mountains specialise in China Beach
marble sculpture, though they now astutely
use marble from China rather than hacking During the war, the Americans used the
away at the mountains that bring the visi- name China Beach to refer to the beautiful
tors in. 30km sweep of fine white sand that starts
at Monkey Mountain and ends near Hoi An.
Thuy Son (admission 15,000d; h7am-5pm) Soldiers would be sent here for some R&R
is the largest and most famous of the five from bases all over the country.
Marble Mountains (and the only one acces-
sible to visitors), with a number of natural The Vietnamese call sections of the beach
caves in which first Hindu and later Bud- by different names, including My Khe, My
dhist sanctuaries have been created. At the An, Non Nuoc, An Bang and Cua Dai. The
top of the staircase is a gate, Ong Chon, northernmost stretch, My Khe, is now basi-
which is pockmarked with bullet holes. This cally a suburb of Danang, while in the south
An Bang is considered Hoi An’s beach. The
area between is filled with a growing range
of beach resorts.

202 400,000d; aW) Great little minihotel, just
The best time for swimming is from April across the road from the beach break on
My An, so a good option for surfers. Offers
to July, when the sea is calmest. At other well-kept rooms and the jovial owner speaks
times the water can get rough. Note that some English.
lifeguards only patrol some sections of the
beach. The surf can be good from around Frangipani Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
mid-September to December. (Map p200; %0511-393 8368; www.frangipani
boutiquehotel.com; 8 Nguyen Huu Thong; d US$45;
1 Sights & Activities aiWs) With just 11 rooms and stylish
shared areas, the Frangipani is more like
My Khe BEACH a classy European guesthouse. Rooms are
spacious and modern with elegant decor,
Just across the Song Han Bridge, My Khe is and it’s just a short stroll to the sands of
fast becoming Danang’s easternmost sub- China Beach. A small indoor pool is avail­
urb. In the early morning and evening the able downstairs, bicycles are free to use, and
beach fills up with city folk doing t’ai chi. there’s also a pleasant on-site restaurant
Tourists emerge during peak sun-tanning with courtyard seating.
hours, while locals prefer the evening. The
beach is largely free from hawkers. The wa-
ter can have a dangerous undertow, espe-
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SA iorgouhutthns-dC&DeAnactntraianvlgi tVi ei estnam cially in winter. However, it’s protected by
the bulk of Nui Son Tra and is safer than the
rest of China Beach. Sofia Boutique Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p200; %0511-3941 669; www.sofiahotel
danang.com; 111 Ð Pham Van Dong; d US$45;
My An & Non Nuoc BEACH aiW) Handily located a two-minute walk

Much of the central section of China Beach from the beach, the Sofia has spacious and
has been parceled off for luxury resort devel-
opments. The inland side of the coastal road modern rooms decked out in natural timber.
There’s a good on-site restaurant, a handy
has a scattering of budget hotels between cafe downstairs that channels a French am-
exclusive golf courses designed by the likes
of Greg Norman. bience, and the friendly staff can arrange
tours and transport to Hoi An and beyond.
4 Sleeping
Gold 2 Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p200; %0511-3958 179; www.gold2hotel.vn;
There is a good range of accommodation a 4-5 Ð Hoang Ke Viem; r 540,000-800,000d, apt
short stroll from the sea and good seafood from 1,200,000d; aW) Spotless and modern
restaurants. rooms in one of My Khe’s most recently built

Funtastic Beach Hostel HOSTEL $ minihotels. Decor is Asian-inspired and the
(Map p200; %0511-392 8789; www.funtastic
danang.com; K02/5 Ha Bong; dm/d/apt US$8/ beach is just across the road. Spacious fam-
ily apartments are a good option for travel-
24/36; aiW) In the rapidly developing ling groups.
accommodation scene across the river
near China Beach, Funtastic Beach Hostel a la carte DESIGN HOTEL $$$
(Map p200; www.alacarteliving.com; cnr Ð Vo
is brightly decorated, has a good rooftop Nguyen Giap & Ð Duong Dinh Nghe; ste from
terrace, and a range of rooms from dorms
through to a small self-contained apartment US$125; naWs) This hotel dominates the
beach’s skyline with 25 floors of all-suite
that’s good for families or friends. Breakfast accommodation, a spa and a fitness centre.
is included and there’s a good chillout area
with DVDs and video games on tap. Apartment-style suites are spacious and
modern, with the best views at the front
Eena Hotel HOTEL $ stretching effortlessly along the coast. An
(Map p200; %0511-222 5123; www.eenahotel.com;
Khu An Cu 3; r 300,000-500,000d; aiW) This infinity pool sits in front of the hotel’s cool
rooftop bar, and ground-floor restaurants
Japanese-owned minihotel is a great base in include a deli and seafood bar.
My Khe with its immaculately clean, light,
spacious, white rooms. There’s a lift, fast wi- Fusion Maia HOTEL $$$
(Map p200; %0511-396 7999; http://maiadanang.
fi, friendly English-speaking staff and a good fusion-resorts.com/; Ð Truong Sa, Khue My Beach;
complimentary breakfast.
villas from US$420; naiWs) Contemporary
Bien Nho Hotel HOTEL $ beachfront hotel with an outstanding spa
(Map p200; %0511-396 7401; biennhohoteldng@
gmail.com; 4 Truong Sa, Hoa Hai; r 300,000- (all guests get a minimum of two treatments

per day). And what a wellness zone it is, with 203
treatment rooms, saunas and steam rooms tury, the city’s allure and importance dwin-
set around a courtyard-style garden. Suites dled until an abrupt rise in fortunes in the
and villas all boast minimalist decor, private 1990s, when a tourism boom transformed
pool and gadgets including music-loaded the local economy. Today Hoi An is once
­iPods. Free shuttle buses run to/from Hoi An. again a cosmopolitan melting pot, one of
the nation’s most wealthy towns, a culinary
5Eating & Drinking mecca and one of Vietnam’s most important
tourism centres.
Burger Bros BURGERS $
(Map p200; 18 An Thuong 4; burgers 70,000- This revival of fortunes has preserved the
100,000d; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun) face of the Old Town and its incredible leg-
Owned by a hip Japanese surfer, Burger acy of tottering Japanese merchant houses,
Bros is a cool spot for the best gourmet burg- Chinese temples and ancient tea ware-
ers in central Vietnam, well-priced beer and houses – though, of course, residents and
terrific French fries (try the garlic and rose- rice fields have been gradually replaced by
mary ones with a fruit-packed soda). tourist businesses. Lounge bars, boutique
hotels, travel agents and a glut of tailor
Top Rooftop Lounge BAR shops are very much part of the scene here. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m GHS oe tui ttAihnn-gC eTnhterrael&VAi ertonuanmd
And yet, down by the market and over on
(Map p200; a la carte hotel, cnr Ð Vo Nguyen Giap & Cam Nam Island, you’ll find life has changed
Ð Duong Dinh Nghe; h11am-late; W) Go straight little. Travel a few kilometres further – you’ll
to the Top for the best views of the beach’s find some superb bicycle, motorbike and
sprawling arc. Cocktails and imported beers boat trips – and some of central Vietnam’s
all impress tourists and Danang’s smart set most enticingly laid-back scenery and
as they jostle for position on the sun loung- beaches are within easy reach.
es, funky cane furniture, or in the infinity
pool. After dark, the views become even bet- History
ter, as China Beach’s glittering necklace of
neon and lights sparks up. The earliest evidence of human habitation
here dates back 2200 years: excavated cer­
Tam’s Pub & Surf Shop BAR amic fragments are thought to belong to the
late Iron Age Sa Huynh civilisation, which is
(Map p200; 38 An Thuong 5; h7am-11pm; W) related to the Dong Son culture of northern
A stone’s throw from China Beach, this is a Vietnam. From the 2nd to the 10th centu-
friendly, popular bar-restaurant with pub ries, this was a busy seaport of the Champa
grub (think burgers or fish ’n’ chips). You can kingdom, and archaeologists have found
rent boards (US$5 per day, deposit required) the foundations of numerous Cham towers
and get surfing advice here. around Hoi An.

88 Getting There & Around In 1307 the Cham king presented Quang
Nam province as a gift when he married a
The My Khe section of China Beach is just 3km Vietnamese princess. When his successor
or so east of central Danang and costs around refused to recognise the deal, fighting broke
50,000d by taxi. out and chaos reigned for the next century.
By the 15th century, peace was restored,
Hoi An allowing commerce to resume. During the
next four centuries Hoi An – known as Fai-
% 0510 / POP 134,000 foo to Western traders – was one of South-
east Asia’s major ports. Chinese, Japanese,
Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam’s most Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish, Indian, Filipi-
atmospheric and delightful town. Once a no, Indonesian, Thai, French, British and
major port, it boasts the grand architecture American ships came to call, and the town’s
and beguiling riverside setting that befits its warehouses teemed with treasures: high-
heritage, but the 21st-century curses of traf- grade silk, fabrics, paper, porcelain, areca
fic and pollution are almost entirely absent. nuts, pepper, Chinese medicines, elephant
tusks, beeswax, mother-of-pearl and lacquer.
Hoi An owes its easygoing provincial de-
meanour and remarkably harmonious old- Chinese and Japanese traders left their
town character more to luck than planning. mark on Hoi An. Both groups came in the
Had the Thu Bon River not silted up in the spring, driven south by monsoon winds.
late 19th century – so ships could no longer They would stay in Hoi An until the summer,
access the town’s docks – Hoi An would
doubtless be very different today. For a cen-

D 204

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40
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Thu Bon RiverBridge Windbell when southerly winds would blow them
Villa (100m) home. During their four-month sojourn in
#f6 3866ÿ# DE FG Hoi An, they rented waterfront houses for C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHioguihtAthns- C e nt r a l V i e tnam
use as warehouses and living quarters. Some
Boat began leaving full-time agents in Hoi An to
Landing take care of their off-season business affairs.
Ð Bach6Dang
The Japanese ceased coming to Hoi An
#û after 1637 (when the Japanese government

3 77 #66 266 #f6 D forbade contact with the outside world), butABC
52 #ú the Chinese lingered. The town’s Chinese
Departure assembly halls still play a special role for
57 #ú jetty for Cham southern Vietnam’s ethnic Chinese, some of
#ú Island ferries whom come from all over the region to par-
62 286#Û6 ticipate in congregation-wide celebrations.
This was also the first place in Vietnam
Chu to be exposed to Christianity. Among the
42 #ÿ 41ÿ# 17th-century missionary visitors was Alex-
PeAnninHsouila andre de Rhodes, who devised the Latin-­
based quoc ngu script for the Vietnamese
Ð language.
Although Hoi An was almost completely
6 destroyed during the Tay Son Rebellion, it
was rebuilt and continued to be an impor-
tant port until the late 19th century, when
the Thu Bon River silted up. Danang (Tou-
rane) took over as the region’s main port.
Under French rule, Hoi An served as an
administrative centre. It was virtually un-
touched in the American War, thanks to the
cooperation of both sides. The town was de-
clared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1999
and there are now very strict rules in place
to safeguard the Old Town’s unique heritage.
Today Hoi An’s economy is booming, and
at times the Old Town can struggle to con-
tain the sheer number of visitors. Many ac-
commodation options have opened around
the town’s periphery, as Hoi An expands to
fulfil the ever-hungry tourism sector.

1 Sights

By Unesco decree, more than 800 historic
buildings in Hoi An have been preserved,
so much of the Old Town (www.hoianworld
heritage.org.vn; tickets 120,000d) looks as it did
several centuries ago.

The Chinese who settled in Hoi An identi-
fied themselves according to their province
of origin. Each community built its own
assembly hall, known as hoi quan in Viet-
namese, for social gatherings, meetings and
celebrations.

All the old houses, except Diep Dong
Nguyen and Quan Thang, offer short guid-
ed tours. They are efficient, if a tad perfunc-
tory. You’ll be whisked to a heavy wooden
chair while your guide recites a scripted

206

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHioguihtAthns- C e nt r a l V i e tnam Hoi An 41 Little Hoi An ............................................B5
42 Long Life Riverside.................................B5
æ Top Sights 43 Phuong Dong Hotel ................................ A1
1 Assembly Hall of the Fujian 44 Thien Nga Hotel......................................B2
Chinese Congregation........................ D4 45 Thien Thanh Hotel.................................. A1
2 Japanese Covered Bridge..................... B4 46 Vinh Hung 1 Hotel ...................................C4
3 Tan Ky House......................................... C4 47 Vinh Hung Library Hotel ........................B2
ú Eating
æ Sights 48 Aubergine 49 .......................................... G1
4 Assembly Hall of the Cantonese 49 Bale Well .................................................D3
Chinese Congregation........................ B4 50 Cafe Zoom ..............................................C2
5 Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou 51 Cargo Club ..............................................C4
Chinese Congregation.........................F4
6 Assembly Hall of the Hainan Cocobox .......................................... (see 9)
Chinese Congregation.........................E4 52 Enjoy Ice Cream .....................................C5
7 Ba Le Well............................................... D3 53 Ganesh Indian Restaurant.....................C2
8 Chinese All-Community 54 Green Mango ..........................................D4
Assembly Hall ..................................... D4 55 Little Menu ..............................................C3
9 Diep Dong Nguyen House..................... C4 56 Mai Fish ...................................................B4
10 Handicraft Workshop ............................ D4 57 Mango Mango.........................................B5
11 Hoi An Museum of History & 58 Mermaid Restaurant.............................. E4
Culture ..................................................E4 59 Miss Ly Cafeteria 22 .............................. E4
12 Museum of Folklore in Hoi An............... D4 60 Morning Glory Restaurant .....................C4
13 Museum of Sa Huynh Culture & 61 Nu Eatery ...............................................B4
Museum of the Revolution ................. B4
14 Museum of Trading Ceramics .............. D4 Seedlings ...................................... (see 57)
15 Phac Hat Pagoda ................................... C3 62 Vy's Market .............................................B5
16 Phung Hung Old House......................... B4 û Drinking & Nightlife
17 Quan Cong Temple.................................E4 63 3 Dragons ............................................... F4
18 Quan Thang House ................................ D4
19 Tran Duong House .................................F4 Dive Bar......................................... (see 24)
64 Hoi An Roastery .....................................C4
20 Tran Family Chapel ............................... D3 65 Mia Coffee House ................................... F4

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Q Bar ............................................. (see 24)
21 Active Adventures Vietnam .................. B2 66 White Marble ..........................................C4
22 Ba Le Beauty Salon ............................... D3 þ Shopping
23 Blue Coral Diving ................................... C4 67 A Dong Silk..............................................C4
24 Cham Island Diving Center ................... C4 68 Avana ......................................................C4
25 Eat Hoi An............................................... D3
26 Heaven & Earth...................................... B5 Couleurs D'Asie Gallery ................ (see 11)
27 Herbs and Spices .................................. C3 69 Friendly Shop ......................................... E4
28 Hoi An Kayak Center ............................. A6 70 Hoang Kim ..............................................D4
29 Hoi An Motorbike Adventures .............. B2 71 Kimmy.....................................................C2
30 Hoi An Photo Tour ..................................F4 72 Lotus Jewellery ......................................D4
31 Love of Life ............................................. B3 73 Metiseko .................................................B4
Morning Glory Cooking 74 Mosaique Decoration.............................C3
School.........................................(see 60) 75 Randy's Book Xchange .......................... E6
32 Palmarosa .............................................. B2
33 Phat Tire Ventures ................................ B2 Reaching Out .................................. (see 3)
34 Vespa Adventures ................................. C2 76 Tuoi Ngoc................................................C4

ÿ Sleeping Villagecraft Planet .........................(see 19)
35 Almanity Hoi An ......................................D1 77 Yaly..........................................................C4
36 Anantara Hoi An Resort ........................ G4 ï Information
37 Ha An Hotel ............................................ G4 78 Go Travel Vietnam .................................C3
38 Hideout Hostel ........................................E5 79 Rose Travel Service ...............................G2
39 Hoa Binh Hotel....................................... B2 80 Sinh Tourist ............................................B2
40 Hoang Trinh Hotel ................................. A3 81 Tourist Information Office .....................D3

introduction to the house, and gives a sou- One downside to putting these old houses
venir soft sell. You’re free to wander around on show is that what were once living spaces
the house after the tour. now seem dead and museum-like, the family
having sequestered itself away from visitors’

207

eyes. Huge tour groups can completely spoil oAssembly Hall of the
the intimacy of the experience too, as they
jostle for photo opportunities. Fujian Chinese Congregation TEMPLE

All four museums are small. Displays are (Phuc Kien Hoi Quan; opposite 35 Ð Tran Phu;
pretty basic and the information provided admission by Old Town ticket; h7am-5.30pm)
minimal. Originally a traditional assembly hall, this
structure was later transformed into a tem-
Eighteen of these buildings are open to ple for the worship of Thien Hau, a deity
visitors and require an Old Town ticket for from Fujian province. The green-tiled triple
admission; the fee goes towards funding gateway dates from 1975. The mural on the
conservation work. Buying a ticket at any of right-hand wall depicts Thien Hau, her way
the Old Town booths is easy enough; plan- lit by lantern light as she crosses a stormy
ning your visit around the byzantine admis- sea to rescue a foundering ship. Opposite is
sion options is another matter. Each ticket a mural of the heads of the six Fujian fam-
allows you to visit five different heritage at- ilies who fled from China to Hoi An in the
tractions: museums, assembly halls, ancient 17th century.
houses and a traditional music show at the The penultimate chamber contains a
Handicraft Workshop. Tickets are valid for statue of Thien Hau. To either side of the
10 days. Technically, the tickets are for ac- entrance stand red-skinned Thuan Phong
cess into the Old Town itself, but you won’t Nhi and green-skinned Thien Ly Nhan, de- C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHioguihtAthns- C e nt r a l V i e tnam
normally be checked if you’re just dining or ities who alert Thien Hau when sailors are
shopping in the area. Keep your ticket with in distress.
you just in case. In the last chamber, the central altar con-
tains seated figures of the heads of the six
Despite the number of tourists who flood Fujian families. The smaller figures below
into Hoi An, it is still a conservative town. them represent their successors as clan lead-
Visitors should dress modestly, especially ers. Behind the altar on the right are three
since some of the old houses are still private fairies and smaller figures representing the
homes. 12 ba mu (midwives), each of whom teach-

oJapanese Covered Bridge BRIDGE es newborns a different skill necessary for

(Cau Nhat Ban) F This beautiful little the first year of life: smiling, sucking and
bridge is emblematic of Hoi An. A bridge
was first constructed here in the 1590s by so forth. Childless couples often come here
to pray for offspring and leave fresh fruit as
the Japanese community to link them with offerings.
the Chinese quarters. Over the centuries
the ornamentation has remained relatively oTan Ky House
faithful to the original Japanese design. The HISTORIC BUILDING

French flattened out the roadway for cars, (101 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; admission by Old Town tick-
et; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm) Built two centu-
but the original arched shape was restored ries ago by an ethnically Vietnamese family,
in 1986.
The structure is very solidly construct- this gem of a house has been lovingly pre-
served through seven generations. Look out
ed because of the threat of earthquakes. for signs of Japanese and Chinese influences
The entrances to the bridge are guarded by
weathered statues: a pair of monkeys on one on the architecture. Japanese elements in-
clude the ceiling (in the sitting area), which
side, a pair of dogs on the other. According is supported by three progressively shorter
to one story, many of Japan’s emperors were
born in the years of the dog and monkey. beams, one on top of the other. Under the
crab-shell ceiling are carvings of crossed
Another tale says that construction of the
bridge started in the year of the monkey
and was finished in the year of the dog. The WATERWORLD
stelae, listing all Vietnamese and Chinese
contributors to a subsequent restoration of Hoi An’s riverside location makes it
the bridge, are written in chu nho (Chinese particularly vulnerable to flooding dur-
characters) – the nom script had not yet be- ing the rainy season (October and No-
come popular. While access to the Japanese vember). It’s common for the waterfront
Bridge is free, you have to surrender a tick- to be hit by sporadic floods of about 1m
et to see a small, unimpressive temple built and a typhoon can bring levels of 2m
into the bridge’s northern side. or more.

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHioguihtAthns- C e nt r a l V i e tnam208

HOI AN HOUSES: A CLOSER LOOK

The historical buildings of Hoi An not only survived the 20th century’s wars, they also
retain features of traditional architecture rarely seen today. As they have been for centu-
ries, some shopfronts are shuttered at night with horizontal planks inserted into grooves
that cut into the columns that support the roof.

Some roofs are made up of thousands of brick-coloured am and duong (yin and yang)
roof tiles – so called because of the way the alternating rows of concave and convex tiles
fit snugly together. During the rainy season the lichens and moss that live on the tiles
spring to life, turning entire rooftops bright green.

A number of Hoi An’s houses have round pieces of wood with an am-duong symbol in
the middle surrounded by a spiral design over the doorway. These mat cua (door eyes)
are supposed to protect the residents from harm.

Hoi An’s historic structures are gradually being sensitively restored. Strict rules gov-
ern the colour that houses can be painted and the signs that can be used.

It’s not just individual buildings that have survived – it’s whole streetscapes. This is
particularly true around Ð Tran Phu and waterside promenade Ð Bach Dang. In the for-
mer French quarter to the east of Cam Nam Bridge, there’s a whole block of colonnaded
houses, painted in the mustard yellow typical of French colonial buildings.

s­abres wrapped in silk ribbon. The sabres one of the clan who ascended to the rank
symbolise force, the silk represents flexibility. of mandarin and served as an ambassador
to China. His picture is to the right of the
The interior is brightened by a beauti- chapel. The architecture of the building
ful detail: Chinese poems written in inlaid reflects the influence of Chinese (the ‘tur-
mother-of-pearl hang from some of the col- tle’ style roof), Japanese (triple beam) and
umns that hold up the roof. The Chinese vernacular (look out for the bow-and-arrow
characters on these 150-year-old panels are detailing) styles.
formed entirely of birds gracefully portrayed
in various positions of flight. The central door is reserved for the dead –
it’s opened at Tet and on 11 November, the
The courtyard has several functions: to let death anniversary of the main ancestor.
in light, provide ventilation, bring a glimpse Traditionally, women entered from the left
of nature into the home, and collect rainwa- and men from the right, although these dis-
ter and provide drainage. The carved wood- tinctions are no longer observed.
en balcony supports around the courtyard
are decorated with grape leaves, which are The wooden boxes on the altar contain the
a European import and further evidence of Tran ancestors’ stone tablets, with chiselled
the unique blending of cultures in Hoi An. Chinese characters setting out the dates
of birth and death, along with some small
The back of the house faces the river and personal effects. On the anniversary of each
was rented out to foreign merchants. Marks family member’s death, their box is opened,
on one wall record recent flood heights, in- incense is burned and food is offered.
cluding the 1964 record when the water cov-
ered almost the entire ground level. There After a short tour, you’ll be shown to the
are two pulleys attached to a beam in the ‘antique’ room, where there are lots of coins
loft – in the past they were used for moving for sale, and a side room full of souvenirs.
goods into storage, and today for raising fur-
niture for safekeeping from the floods. Quan Cong Temple CONFUCIAN TEMPLE

The exterior of the roof is made of tiles; (Chua Ong; 24 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town
inside, the ceiling consists of wood. This ticket) Founded in 1653, this small temple is
design keeps the house cool in summer and dedicated to Quan Cong, an esteemed Chi-
warm in winter. nese general who is worshipped as a sym-
bol of loyalty, sincerity, integrity and justice.
His partially gilded statue, made of papier-­
Tran Family Chapel HISTORIC BUILDING

(21 Ð Le Loi; admission by Old Town ticket; mâché on a wooden frame, is on the central
h7.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm) Built for worship- altar at the back of the sanctuary. When
ping family ancestors, this chapel dates back someone makes an offering to the portly
to 1802. It was commissioned by Tran Tu, looking Quan Cong, the caretaker solemnly

strikes a bronze bowl that makes a bell-like 209
sound. and lashings of red lacquer – it’s dedicated
to Thien Hau.
On the left of Quan Cong is a statue of
General Chau Xuong, one of his guardians, Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou
striking a tough-guy pose. On the right is
the rather plump administrative mandarin Chinese Congregation HISTORIC BUILDING
Quan Binh. The life-sized white horse recalls
a mount ridden by Quan Cong. (Trieu Chau Hoi Quan; opposite 157 Ð Nguyen Duy
Hieu; admission by Old Town ticket; h8am-5pm)
Check out the carp-shaped rain spouts Built in 1752, the highlight in this congre-
on the roof surrounding the courtyard. The gational hall is the gleaming woodcarvings
carp is a symbol of patience in Chinese my- on the beams, walls and altar – absolutely
thology and is popular in Hoi An. stunning in their intricacy. You could stand
here for hours to unravel the stories, but if
Shoes should be removed when mounting you’re just popping by quickly, look for the
the platform in front of the statue of Quan carvings on the doors in front of the altar of
Cong. two Chinese women wearing their hair in an
unexpectedly Japanese style.

Phuoc Lam Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE Chuc Thanh Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Thon 2a, Cam Ha; h8am-5pm) This pagoda (Khu Vuc 7, Tan An; h8am-6pm) Founded in C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHioguihtAthns- C e nt r a l V i e tnam
(founded in the mid-17th century) is associ-
ated with An Thiem, a Vietnamese prodigy 1454 by a Buddhist monk from China, this
is the oldest pagoda in Hoi An. Among the
and monk from the age of eight. When he antique ritual objects still in use are several
was 18, he volunteered for the army so his
brothers could escape the draft; he even- bells, a stone gong that is two centuries old
and a carp-shaped wooden gong said to be
tually rose to the rank of general. Later he even more venerable. To get to Chuc Thanh
returned to the monkhood, but to atone for
his sins of war he volunteered to clean the Pagoda, go north all the way to the end of Ð
Nguyen Truong To and turn left. Follow the
Hoi An market for 20 years, then joined this lane for 500m.
pagoda as its head monk.
To reach the pagoda, continue past Chuc
Thanh Pagoda for 500m. The path passes Handicraft Workshop WORKSHOP

an obelisk that was erected over the tomb (9 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; admission by Old Town ticket)
Housed in a 200-year-old Chinese trading
of 13 ethnic Chinese who were decapitated house, the Handicraft Workshop has arti-
by the Japanese during WWII for resistance
activities. sans making silk lanterns and practising
traditional embroidery in the back. In the
front is your typical tourist-oriented cultural
Museum of Trading Ceramics MUSEUM show with traditional singers, dancers and

(80 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket; musicians. It makes a sufficiently diverting
h7am-5.30pm) Occupies a restored wooden
house and contains artefacts from all over break from sightseeing.

Asia, with oddities from as far afield as Tran Duong House HISTORIC SITE
Egypt. While this reveals that Hoi An had
some rather impressive trading links, it (25 Ð Phan Boi Chau; admission 20,000d; h9am-
7pm) There’s a whole block of colonnaded
takes an expert’s eye to appreciate the dis- French colonial buildings on Ð Phan Boi
play. The exhibition on the restoration of
Hoi An’s old houses provides a useful crash Chau between Nos 22 and 73, among them
the 19th-century Tran Duong House. It’s
course in Old Town architecture. still a private home, so a family member

Chinese All-Community will show you around. There’s some antique
French and Chinese furniture, including a
Assembly Hall HISTORIC BUILDING sideboard buffet and a sitting room set with

(Chua Ba; %0510-861 935; 64 Ð Tran Phu; elaborate mother-of-pearl inlay. By contrast,
h8am-5pm) F Founded in 1773, this as-
sembly hall was used by Fujian, Cantonese, the large, plain wooden table in the front
room is the family bed.
Hainan, Chaozhou and Hakka congrega-
tions in Hoi An. To the right of the entrance
are portraits of Chinese resistance heroes Hoi An Museum of

in Vietnam who died during WWII. The History & Culture MUSEUM

well-restored main temple is a total assault (7 Ð Nguyen Hue; admission by Old Town ticket;
h7am-5.30pm) Housed in the Quan Am Pa-
on the senses, with great smoking incense goda, this museum provides a sampling of
spirals, ­demonic-looking deities, dragons

210 Museum of Folklore in Hoi An MUSEUM
pre-Cham, Cham and port-era artefacts,
with some huge bells, historic photos, old (33 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc/62 Ð Bach Dang; admission
scales and weights alongside plenty of by Old Town ticket; h7am-5.30pm) Located in
ceramics. a 150-year-old Chinese trading house. The
exhibits give some idea of local customs
Quan Thang House HISTORIC BUILDING and culture, though it’s awfully dusty and

(77 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket; decontextualised for a folk-history museum.
h7am-5pm) This house is three centuries
old and was built by a Chinese captain. As The view of the river from upstairs is very
picturesque.
usual, the architecture includes Japanese
and Chinese elements. There are some espe-
Phac Hat Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE

cially fine carvings of peacocks and flowers (673 Ð Hai Ba Trung) F Phac Hat Pagoda
on the teak walls of the rooms around the has a colourful facade of ceramics and mu-
courtyard, on the roof beams and under rals and an elaborate roof with snake-like
the crab-shell roof (in the salon beside the dragons. There’s a huge central courtyard
courtyard). containing hundreds of potted plants and
bonsai trees.
Assembly Hall of the Cantonese
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHA octui itAvhni t- Ci eesnt r a l V i e tnam
Chinese Congregation HISTORIC BUILDING Museum of Sa Huynh Culture

(Quang Trieu Hoi Quan; 176 Ð Tran Phu; admission by & Museum of the Revolution MUSEUM

Old Town ticket; h8am-5pm) Founded in 1786, (149 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket;
h7am-5.30pm) On the lower floor you’ll
this assembly hall has a tall, airy entrance find stone, bronze, gold, glass and agate
that opens onto a splendidly over-the-top
mosaic statue of a dragon and a carp. The jewellery, assorted ceramic fragments and
main altar is dedicated to Quan Cong. The burial jars dating from the early Dong Son
garden behind has an even more incredible civilisation of Sa Huynh. The upper floor’s
dragon statue. revolution museum was closed at the time
of research.
Assembly Hall of the Hainan

Chinese Congregation HISTORIC BUILDING Ba Le Well LANDMARK

(Hai Nam Hoi Quan; 10 Ð Tran Phu; h8am-5pm) F This square well’s claim to fame is that
F Built in 1851, this assembly hall is a it’s the source of water for making authentic
memorial to 108 merchants from Hainan cao lau, a Hoi An speciality. The well is said
Island who were mistaken for pirates and to date from Cham times and elderly people
killed in Quang Nam province in 1851. The make their daily pilgrimage to fill pails here.
elaborate dais contains plaques to their To find it, turn down the alley opposite 35 Ð
memory. In front of the central altar is a fine Phan Chu Trinh and take the second lane-
gilded woodcarving of Chinese court life. way to the right.

Phung Hung Old House HISTORIC BUILDING 2 Activities

(4 Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai; admission by Old Town Diving & Snorkelling
ticket; h8am-7pm) Just a few steps down A trip to the Cham Islands is a superb ex-
from the Japanese Covered Bridge, this cursion, and Hoi An’s two dive schools offer
old house has a wide, welcoming entrance packages including overnight camping and
hall decorated with exquisite lanterns, wall diving trips. The diving is not world class,
hangings and embroidery. There’s also an but can be intriguing.
impressive suspended altar.
A PADI Discover Scuba dive costs US$70,
Diep Dong Nguyen House HISTORIC BUILDING two fun dives are US$80, while Open Water
(58 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm) courses start at around US$350. Snorkelling
F Built for a wealthy Chinese merchant costs around US$42, including gear, with an
in the late 19th century, this old house looks overnight beach camping option adding an-
like an apothecary from another era. The other US$40.
front room was once a dispensary for thuoc
bac (Chinese medicine); the medicines were It’s usually only possible to dive or snorkel
stored in the glass-enclosed cases lining the between February and September; the best
walls. conditions and visibility are from June to
August.

211

Cham Island Diving Center DIVING alities unique to the Hoi An region, but most
are fiendishly tricky to prepare.
(%0510-391 0782; www.vietnamscubadiving.com;
88 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc) Run by a friendly, expe- Courses often start with a visit to the
rienced team, this dive shop’s mantra is ‘no market to learn more about key Vietnamese
troubles, make bubbles’. They’ve a large boat ingredients.
and also a speedboat for zippy transfers.
Also runs one-day and overnight trips to the Green Bamboo

Cham Islands. Cooking School COOKING COURSE

(%0905 815 600; www.greenbamboo-hoian.
com; 21 Ð Truong Minh Hung, Cam An; per person
Blue Coral Diving DIVING

(%0510-627 9297; www.divehoian.com; 77 Ð US$40) Directed by Van, a charming local
Nguyen Thai Hoc) A friendly, professional out-
fit with an 18m dive boat and additional chef and English speaker, these courses are
more personalised than most. Groups are
speedboat. limited to a maximum of 10, and take place
in Van’s spacious kitchen. Choose what to
Massage & Spa cook from a diverse menu including vege-
There are many massage and treatment cen- tarian choices. It’s 5km east of the centre,
tres in Hoi An. Most are average, run by lo- near Cu Dai beach, and transport from Hoi
cals with minimal experience or training. A An is included. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HSCo ui tArhns -eCse nt r a l V i e tnam
basic massage costs around US$12 an hour –
there’s a strip along Ð Ba Trieu. At the oth- Herbs and Spices COOKING COURSE
er end of the scale are indulgent places that
offer a wonderful spa experience (with pric- (%0510-393 6868; www.herbsandspicesvn.com;
es to match); these are mostly based in the 2/6 Ð Le Loi; per person US$35-59; h10.30am,
luxury hotels. 4.30pm & 8pm) Excellent classes with three
different menu options, and smaller more
hands-on groups than some other cookery
Palmarosa SPA classes.

(%0510-393 3999; www.palmarosaspa.vn; 90 Ð
Ba Trieu; massages & treatments from 220,000d;
h10am-9pm) This highly professional spa of- Morning Glory

Cooking School COOKING COURSE

fers massages (including Thai and Swedish), (%0510-224 1555; www.msvy-tastevietnam.com;
scrubs, facials, and hand and foot care. 106 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; half-day course US$25-32)
This is the cooking course that launched Hoi
Countryside Charm SPA An cooking courses. It’s directed by Trinh

(Duyen Que; %0510-350 1584; http://spahoian.vn; Diem Vy, owner of several restaurants in
512 Ð Cua Dai; 1hr massage from US$20; h8am-
11pm) On the beach road, this treatment town, or one of her protégés. Classes concen-
trate on local recipes including cao lau and
centre has functional premises, but staff are ‘white rose’; they can have up to 30 people
well trained. It also arranges complimentary
pick-up from Hoi An. and some people feel the whole experience
is a little too organised.

Ba Le Beauty Salon SPA Red Bridge

(%0905 226 974; www.balewellbeautysalon.com; Cooking School COOKING COURSE
45-11 Ð Tran Hung Dao; h9am-7pm) Ba Le is run
by a fluent English speaker, who has trained (%0510-393 3222; www.visithoian.com/redbridge;
Thon 4, Cam Thanh; per person US$32-52) At
in the UK, and offers inexpensive threading, this school, going to class involves a relax-
waxing, facials, manicure and pedicures.
ing 4km cruise down the river. There are
C Courses half-day and full-day courses, both of which
include market visits. The half-day class fo-
Cooking cuses on local specialities, with rice-paper
Hoi An has become a mecca for Vietnam- making and food decoration tips thrown
ese cooking courses, with many restaurants in for good measure. The full-day class in-
offering classes. These range from a simple structs participants in the fine art of pho
set-up in someone’s backyard to purpose-­ (beef noodle soup).
built schools. As an added sweetener, there’s a 20m
The town does make an ideal place for swimming pool at the school. It’s 4km east
budding chefs. There are many local speci- of the centre on the banks of the Thu Bon
River.

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HSCo ui tArhns -eCse nt r a l V i e tnam212

TOURS AROUND HOI AN

The Vietnamese countryside and rural lanes around Hoi An beg to be explored. Motor-
bike and bicycle trips are popular and there’s no better way to appreciate the country-
side than on two wheels. Jeep tours are another option, and new water-based options
include paddle boarding and kayaking.

The idyllic Cham Islands make another perfect day-trip destination during the March
to September season. Both Hoi An dive schools run tours (p210).

Active Adventures Vietnam (%0905 101 930; www.activeadventures-vietnam.com; 111 Ba
Trieu) Heading up into the hills behind Hoi An, this group offers tours in original US jeeps
to a Co Tu tribal village. There are hot springs and great hikes in the region.

Hoi An Motorbike Adventures (%0905 101 930; www.motorbiketours-hoian.com; 111 Ba
Trieu) Specialises in tours on cult Minsk motorbikes. The guides really know the terrain
and the trips make use of beautiful back roads and riverside tracks.

Phat Tire Ventures (%0510-653 9839; www.ptv-vietnam.com; 62 Ba Trieu) Offers a terrific
mountain bike trip to the My Son ruins that takes in country lanes and temple visits. Also
offers adventure thrills via rappelling and rock climbing.

SUP Monkey (%0935 622 564; www.supmonkey.net; per person US$30-70) Take to a stand-
up paddle board to explore the waterways around Hoi An. Options include a sunrise tour
and exploring the lagoon beside Tra Que village.

Hoi An Free Tour (%0905 164 397; www.hoianfreetour.com) Ride on a bike around the
fringes of Hoi An with students. You get to meet the locals and see village life, they get to
practise their English.

Vespa Adventures (%0938 500 997; www.vespaadventures.com; 134 Ð Tran Cao Van; per person
$US65-76) Quite possibly the most fun and most stylish way to explore around Hoi An, Vespa
Adventures offers the opportunity to ride pillion on classic retro two-wheelers with an Italian
accent. There are morning and afternoon departures, and a popular after dark ‘Streets &
Eats’ option with lots of good food and cold beer. Tours kick off from Cafe Zoom (p215).

Eat Hoi An (Coconut Tours; %0905 411 184; www.eathoian.com; 37 Ð Phan Chau Trinh; per
person US$35) Lots of really authentic cuisine and the infectious enthusiasm of host
Phuoc make this an excellent choice if you really want to explore the grassroots local
street-food scene. Be prepared for lots of different foods and flavours; check the website
for details of cooking classes held in Phuoc’s home village.

Taste of Hoi An (%0905 382 783; www.tasteofhoian.com) Walk the streets to meet the
vendors, then munch your lunch in an ancient (air-conditioned!) Hoi An townhouse.

Heaven & Earth (%0510-386 4362; www.vietnam-bicycle.com; 57 Ð Ngo Quyen, An Hoi; tours
US$12-49) Cycling tours are well thought out and not too strenuous; they explore the
Song Thu river delta area. Recently launched mountain bike tours.

Love of Life (%0510-350 5017; www.hoian-bicycle.com.vn; 95b Ð Phan Chu Trinh; tours
US$19) Has good bicycle tours along quiet country lanes past vegetable gardens and
fishing villages, and walking tours of Hoi An.

Hoi An Kayak Center (%0905 056 640; www.hoiankayak.com; 125 Ð Ngo Quyen) Self-paddle
rentals for US$10 per hour, or two-hour guided leisure paddles for US$25 per person.

Hoi An Photo Tour (%0905 671 898; www.hoianphototour.com; 42 Ð Phan Boi Chau; per
person US$35) Excellent tours with experienced photographer Etienne Bossot. Sunrise
and sunset tours are most popular, harnessing Hoi An’s delicate light for images of
fishermen and rice paddies. Experienced and newbie photographers are both catered
for, and specialist private and night-time workshops are also available.

Hoi An Eco Tour (%0510-392 8900; www.hoianecotour.com; Phuoc Hai village; tours US$60-
75) Offers cultural activities along the river: you can fish, paddle a basket boat, ride a
buffalo or learn about wet rice planting.

213

Yoga Hoi An’s street-food scene, and there’s an
exceedingly social bar with regular happy
Hoi An Yoga YOGA hour deals.

(%0168 874 1406; http://hoianyoga.com) Profes-
sional hatha and yin yoga classes either in
the operator’s home studio in Cam Thanh Phuong Dong Hotel HOTEL $
(%0510-391 6477; www.phuongdonghoian.com;
village, or in a nearby breezy pavilion loca- 42 Ð Ba Trieu; s/d/tr US$13/16/20; aiW) It’s
tion dubbed the Field. Check the website for
the latest schedule and location details. nothing fancy, but a safe budget bet: plain,
good-value rooms with comfortable mat-
z Festivals tresses, reading lights, fridge and air-con.
The owners rent motorbikes at fair rates too.
Full Moon Festival CULTURAL

(h5-11pm) Hoi An is a delightful place to be Hoang Trinh Hotel HOTEL $
on the 14th day of each lunar month, when (%0510-391 6579; www.hoianhoangtrinhhotel.
the town celebrates a Full Moon Festival. com; 45 Ð Le Quy Don; r US$22-35; aiW) Well-
Motorised vehicles are banned from the Old run hotel with helpful, friendly staff where
Town, street markets selling handicrafts, travellers are made to feel welcome. Rooms
souvenirs and food open up, and all the lan- are quite ‘old school’ Vietnamese but spa-
terns come out! Traditional plays and musi- cious and clean. A generous breakfast and C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m FHSeosuittAihnva- Clesnt r a l V i e tnam
cal events are also performed. pick-up from bus stations are included.

4 Sleeping Hoa Binh Hotel HOTEL $
(%0510-391 6838; www.hoabinhhotelhoian.
Hoi An has good-value accommodation in all com; 696 Ð Hai Ba Trung; dm US$8, r US$16-20;
price categories. There are only a couple of aiWs) A good selection of modern
hotels in the Old Town, but plenty of options rooms, all with minibar, cable TV and air-
close by. Many budget and midrange places con, and a reasonable dorm. The inclusive
are spread out to the northwest around Ð breakfast is good, but the pool is covered by
Hai Ba Trung and Ð Ba Trieu. Pretty An Hoi a roof.
Peninsula and Can Nam island are also very
close to the Old Town. The best places book Ha An Hotel
up fast, so plan as far ahead as you can. HISTORIC HOTEL $$
(%0510-386 3126; www.haanhotel.com; 6-8 Ð
Many luxury hotels are a few kilometres Phan Boi Chau; r US$60-109; aiW) Elegant
from town, on the beach, but all offer and refined, the Ha An feels more like a co-
shuttle-­bus transfers. Another option is stay- lonial mansion than a hotel. All rooms have
ing at An Bang beach. nice individual touches – a textile wall hang-
ing or painting – and views over a gorgeous
Hideout Hostel HOSTEL $ central garden. The helpful, well-trained
(%0510-392 7359; www.vietnamhideouthostels. staff make staying here a very special expe-
com; To 5, Thon Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam; dm US$9- rience. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the
11, d US$25; aiWs) Across the Thu Bon centre in the French Quarter.
River on Can Nam island, the Hideout is an
excellent recent addition to Hoi An’s accom- Thien Nga Hotel
HOTEL $$
modation scene. Dorms and rooms are col- (%0510-391 6330; www.thienngahotel.com; 52
ourful and spacious, rates include a free beer Ð Ba Trieu; r US$25-35; aiWs) This place
or soft drink every night, and the centre of has a fine selection of rooms; most are spa-
town is a 10-minute walk away. Other high- cious, light and airy and have a balcony and
lights include a small swimming pool and a minimalist feel (though the bathrooms are
the popular Hideout Bar. more prosaic). Book one at the rear if you
can for garden views. Staff are smiley and
Hoi An Backpackers Hostel HOSTEL $ accommodating, and breakfast is generous.
(%0510-391 4400; www.vietnambackpackerhostels. The pool is covered by a roof though.
com; 252 Ð Cua Dai; dm/s/tw/d US$7/18/36/36;
aiW) Offering loads of backpacker-­ Vinh Hung Library Hotel
HOTEL $$
friendly attractions, this is the new Hoi An (%0510-391 6277; www.vinhhunglibraryhotel.com;
location for a hostel empire spanning Vi- 96 Ð Ba Trieu; r US$50-65; aiWs) A fine
etnam. Bikes, breakfast and the occasional minihotel with modish rooms that have
beer are all free, and accommodation ranges huge beds, dark-wood furniture, writing
from dorms through to private rooms with desks and satellite TV; some rooms also
en-suite bathrooms. Regular tours take in have balconies. All bathrooms are sleek and

214

inviting, and breakfast is included. The roof- Almanity Hoi An BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
top pool area is perfect for catching some (%0510-366 6888; www.almanityhoian.com; 326
rays or cooling off. Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; d from US$140; aWs) Herit-
age style and modern rooms combine at the
Thien Thanh Hotel HOTEL $$ Almanity, just maybe the most relaxing hotel
(Blue Sky Hotel; %0510-391 6545; www.hoian in town. Gardens and swimming pools cre-
thienthanhhotel.com; 16 Ð Ba Trieu; r US$40-70; ate a laid-back haven despite the central lo-
aiWs) Staff are dressed in traditional ao cation, happy hour in the bar often runs for
dai at this atmospheric hotel and maintain three hours, and there’s a full menu of spa
good service standards. The hotel’s spacious, and massage services on tap. Check online
inviting and well-equipped rooms enjoy a for good-value Spa Journey packages.
few Vietnamese decorative flourishes, DVD
players and bath-tubs. At the rear the pool is Hoi An Chic Hotel
HOTEL $$$
a small indoor-outdoor affair, but the oasis-­ (%0510-392 6799; www.hoianchic.com; Ð Nguyen
like rear garden is a real bonus. Trai; r US$95-130; naiWs) Surrounded

Long Life Riverside HOTEL $$ by rice fields, halfway between town and
(%0510-391 1696; www.longlifehotels.com; 61 the beach, Hoi An Chic enjoys a tranquil,
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HS loeui etAphni-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam Ð Nguyen Phuc Chu; r US$22-105; aiWs) near-rural location. The hip design features
Impressive hotel with a peaceful riverside colourful furnishings, outdoor bathrooms
setting on An Hoi Peninsula where there’s and an elevated pool. Staff are very eager to
virtually zero traffic noise to contend with. please, and there’s a free shuttle (in an orig-
Rooms are spacious, all boasting tasteful inal US jeep!) to town. It’s 3km east of the
modern furnishings, a computer and state- centre.

of-the-art bathrooms complete with jazzy Little Hoi An HOTEL $$$
jacuzzi-style bath-tubs. The pool area, in (%0510-386 9999; www.littlehoian.com; 2 Ð Thoai
the centre of the hotel, is a bit of an after- Ngoc Hau; r/ste from US$75/95; aWs) Boast-
thought, however. ing a superb position opposite the Old Town

Orchid Garden Hotel GUESTHOUSE $$ in tranquil An Hoi, this new hotel has real
(%0510-386 3720; www.hoianorchidgarden.com; polish and class. Rooms are very comfort-
382 Ð Cua Dai; r US$40-60; aiWs) Between able indeed, with furnishings that are very
town and beach about 2.5km east of the high grade, and sleek en-suite bathrooms.
centre, this little guesthouse has spacious Staff are welcoming and there’s a good res-
accommodation with hardwood and marble taurant and small spa. The pool is tiny and
flooring. The inviting bungalows with kitch- covered.

en are ideal for self-catering and guests get Vinh Hung 1 Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$$
free bike use and breakfast. (%0510-386 1621; www.vinhhungheritagehotel.

Hoi An Garden Villas HOTEL $$ com; 143 Ð Tran Phu; r US$80-90; naiW) For
(%0510-393 9539; www.hoiangardenvillas.com; a unique experience, this hotel (occupying a
145 Ð Tran Nhat Duat; r US$70-110; aWs) En- 200-year-old townhouse) is unmatched. The
joying a tranquil location on a quiet, sub- whole timber structure simply oozes history
urban lane, this eight-roomed hotel has and mystique – you can almost hear echoes
attractive rooms, all with huge beds, bath- of the house’s ancestors as they negotiate
tubs, a balcony or terrace with pool views spice deals with visiting traders from Japan
and fine-quality furnishings. It’s about 2km and Manchuria. Rooms at the rear are a lit-
east of the centre. tle dark. Room 208 featured in The Quiet
American film (2002).
Windbell Villa HOMESTAY $$
(%0510-393 0888; www.windbellhomestay.com. Anantara Hoi An Resort RESORT $$$
(%0510-391 4555; www.hoi-an.anantara.com;
vn; 127 Nguyen Tri Phuong, Chau Trung, Cam Nam 1 Ð Pham Hong Thai; r/ste from US$130/155;
Island; r US$50-80, villas US$95-145; naiWs)
A luxury homestay with lovely spacious naiWs) There’s a real attention to de-
tail at this large colonial-style resort with
rooms and villas that either have a pool or beautifully furnished rooms that have a
garden view and a huge flat-screen TV. The
host family is a delight. Located on Cam really contemporary look, and wonderful
bathrooms. The expansive grounds are
Nam island, a 10-minute walk from the Old immaculately maintained and there’s an
Town, which offers a more local experience.

Irish pub, fine restaurant, cafe, spa and sub- 215
lime riverside pool area. It’s located in the huge place has food stations cranking out
French Quarter, a short walk from the heart Vietnamese favourites from all around the
of town. country. You sit on benches in a courtyard-­
like space and the menu is available on
5 Eating electronic tablets. Drinks include beer, las-
sis, smoothies and juices, and don’t leave
Central Vietnamese cuisine is arguably the without trying the cinnamon or lemongrass
nation’s most complex and flavoursome, ice cream.
combining fresh herbs (which are sourced
from organic gardens close by) with culinary Cafe Zoom CAFE $
influence from centuries of links with China, (www.facebook.com/cafezoomhoian; 134 Ð Tran
Japan and Europe. Cao Van; meals 70,000-120,000d; h7am-11pm;
W) Look for the retro Vespas outside this
The beauty of Hoi An is that you can snag cool cafe and bar that also doubles as the
a spectacular cheap meal at the central mar- Hoi An location for the friendly Vespa Ad-
ket and in casual eateries – or you can splash ventures (p212) crew. Cold beer is well-
out on a fine-dining experience. priced, comfort eats include burgers and
tacos, and there’s a good mix of classic songs
Hoi An is also blessed with many interna- you can hum along to while you’re deciding C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m ESHaotui itAnhng- C e nt r a l V i e tnam
tional dining choices.

Mermaid Restaurant VIETNAMESE $ which Vespa trip to sign up for.

(%0510-386 1527; www.restaurant-hoian.com; 2 Little Menu VIETNAMESE $
Ð Tran Phu; meals 45,000-115,000d; h10.30am-
10pm) For local specialities, you can’t beat (www.thelittlemenu.com; 12 Ð Le Loi; meals 45,000-
115,000d; h9.30am-11pm; W) English-s­ peaking
this modest little restaurant, owned by local owner Son is a fantastic host at this great
legend Vy, who chose the location because it
was close to the market, ensuring the fresh- little restaurant with an open kitchen and
short menu – try the fish in banana leaf or
est produce was directly at hand. Hoi An’s duck spring rolls.
holy culinary trinity (cao lau, white rose and
banh xeo) are all superb, as are the special
fried wontons. Enjoy Ice Cream ICE CREAM $
(www.enjoy-hoian.com; 13 Ð Nguyen Phuc Chu, An
Hoi; ice cream from 60,000d; h8am-11pm) More
Cocobox CAFE $ than 50 flavours and Old Town views com-
(www.cocoboxvietnam.com; 94 Ð Le Loi; juices &
smoothies 60,000-75,000d; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) bine across the river in An Hoi. We’re still
thinking about the salted caramel flavour.
Refreshing cold-press juices are the stand-
out at this compact combo of cafe and deli.
Our favourite is the Watermelon Man juice
combining watermelon, passion fruit, lime A HOI AN TASTER
and mint. Coffee, salads and snacks are also
good – try the chicken pesto sandwich. The Hoi An is a culinary hot bed and there
attached ‘farm shop’ sells Vietnamese arti- are some unique dishes you should be
san produce, including local honey and cider sure to sample.
from Saigon.
‘White rose’ or banh vac is an incred-
Bale Well VIETNAMESE $ ibly delicate, subtly-flavoured shrimp
(45-51 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 100,000d; h11.30am- dumpling topped with crispy onions.
10pm) Down a little alley near the famous Banh bao is another steamed dumpling,
well, this local place is renowned for one this time with minced pork or chicken,
dish: barbecued pork, served up satay-style, onions, eggs and mushrooms that’s said
which you then combine with fresh greens to be derived from Chinese dim sum.
and herbs to create your own fresh spring Cao lau is an amazing dish – Japanese-
roll. A global reputation means it can get style noodles seasoned with herbs,
busy. salad greens and bean sprouts and
served with slices of roast pork. Other
Vy’s Market VIETNAMESE $ local specialities are fried hoanh thanh
(www.msvy-tastevietnam.com/the-market/; Nguyen (wonton) and banh xeo (crispy savoury
Hoang, An Hoi; meals 70,000-120,000d; h8am- pancakes rolled with herbs in fresh rice
11pm; W) Offering a (sanitised) street-food- paper). Most restaurants serve these
style experience for those slightly wary, this items, but quality varies widely.

216

oNu Eatery FUSION $$ Seedlings CAFE $$
(41 Ð Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi; meals 60,000-
(www.facebook.com/nueateryhoian; 10a Ð Nguyen 190,000d; h10am-10pm) River views and
Thi Minh Khai; mains 80,000d; hnoon-9pm Mon-
Sat) Don’t be deceived by the humble decor Western and Vietnamese cuisine combine
with good deeds at this laid-back restaurant
at this compact eatery tucked away near the and bar that provides training and career
Japanese Bridge. There’s a real wow factor to
the seasonal small plates at our new favour- opportunities for disadvantaged youth from
the Hoi An area. There’s a real verve to the
ite Hoi An restaurant. Combine the pork wait staff here, and a more sophisticated
belly steamed buns with a salad of grilled
pineapple, coconut and pomelo, and don’t ambience compared to other nearby bars.

miss the homemade lemongrass, ginger or Ganesh Indian Restaurant INDIAN $$
chilli ice cream.
A well-chosen wine list – by the glass or (%0510-386 4538; www.ganesh.vn; 24 Ð Tran Hung
Dao; meals 70,000-155,000d; h11am-10pm; Wv)
the bottle – showcases Australian, French A highly authentic, fine-value North Indian
and South American varietals.
restaurant where the tandoor oven pumps
out perfect naan bread and the chefs’ fiery
oCargo Club INTERNATIONAL, VIETNAMESE $$ curries don’t pull any punches. Unlike many
(%0510-391 1227; www.msvy-tastevietnam.com/
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m ESHaotui itAnhng- C e nt r a l V i e tnam cargo-club; 107 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; meals 60,000- curry houses, this one has atmosphere, and
150,000d; h8am-11pm; W) Remarkable cafe-­ also plenty of vegetarian choices. Slurp a las-
restaurant, serving Vietnamese and Western si or slug on a beer and you’re set.

food, with a terrific riverside location (the Mai Fish VIETNAMESE $$
upper terrace has stunning views). A relax- (www.themangomango.com; 45 Ð Nguyen Thi;
ing day here munching your way around meals 90,000-170,000d; h7am-10pm; W)
the menu would be a day well spent. The Casual and laid-back eatery owned by well-
breakfasts are legendary (try the eggs Ben- known Vietnamese–North American chef
edict), the patisserie and cakes are superb, Duc Tran, which focuses on authentic and
and fine-dining dishes and good cocktails tasty versions of homestyle Vietnamese
also deliver. food. It’s in a quiet location a short walk

oMorning from the Japanese Bridge. The red snapper
is a standout dish.
Glory Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$
(%0510-224 1555; www.msvy-tastevietnam.com/
morning-glory; 106 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; meals Miss Ly Cafeteria 22 VIETNAMESE $$
(%0510-386 1603; 22 Ð Nguyen Hue; meals
60,000-160,000d; h8am-11pm; Wv) An out- 45,000-150,000d; h9am-9pm; W) A refined
standing restaurant in historic premises
that concentrates on street food and tradi- little restaurant run by a Vietnamese–North
American team with mellow music and an-
tionally prepared dishes (primarily from tique wall prints. Dishes include tasty cao
central Vietnam). Highlights include the
pork-stuffed squid, and shrimp mousse on lau, and other Vietnamese favourites are
well presented.
sugarcane skewers. There’s an excellent veg-
etarian selection (try the smoked eggplant), Mango Mango FUSION $$$
(%0510-391 0839; www.themangomango.com;
including many wonderful salads. Prices are 45 Ð Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi; meals US$25-35;
reasonable given the surrounds, ambience
and flavours. h7am-10pm; W) Celebrity chef Duc Tran’s
most beautiful Hoi An restaurant enjoys a
Aubergine 49 FUSION $$ prime riverside plot and puts a global spin
(www.facebook.com/aubergine49; 49a Ð Ly
Thai Tho; 3 courses 250,000d; h11am-3pm & on Vietnamese cuisine, with fresh, unex-
pected combinations to the max. Perhaps at
6-9.30pm) Three-course menus for 250,000d times the flavour matches are just a little too
per person are a fine reason to taxi around
five minutes north of central Hoi An to this out there, but the cocktails are some of the
best in town.
stylish restaurant crafting interesting fusion
combinations of Asian and Western cuisine. Green Mango VIETNAMESE, INTERNATIONAL $$$
(www.greenmango.vn; 54 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; meals
There are also à la carte options and a decent 130,000-300,000d; h11.30am-9.30pm; W) The
wine list; menu standouts include stuffed
squid and roast quail. setting, inside one of Hoi An’s most impres-
sive traditional wooden houses, is beautiful,

217

and the accomplished cooking (both West- Q Bar LOUNGE, BAR
ern and Eastern) matches the surrounds.
There’s also one of the only air-conditioned (94 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; hnoon-midnight; W) Q
dining rooms in the Old Town upstairs. Bar offers stunning lighting, lounge music
and electronica, and the best (if pricey at
6 Drinking around 120,000d) cocktails and mocktails in
town. Draws a cool crowd.

Hoi An is not a huge party town as the lo- 3 Dragons PUB
cal authorities keep a fairly strict lid on
late-night revelry. The Old Town is a great (51 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h7.30am-midnight; W) Half
place to treat yourself to a cocktail or glass sports bar (where you can watch everything
of wine. from Aussie Rules to Indian cricket), half
restaurant (burgers, steaks and local food).
More raucous action is across the river
in An Hoi. Happy hours keep costs down 7 Shopping
considerably, and most places close around
1am. The most popular spots in An Hoi Hoi An has a history of flogging goods to C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HSDor iuntAkhni-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam
change on a regular basis. Turn right after international visitors, and today’s residents
crossing the bridge from Hoi An, and you’ll haven’t lost their commercial edge.
soon see (and hear) where the backpack-
er action is currently happening along Ð Clothes are the biggest lure. Hoi An has
Nguyen Phuc Chu. long been known for fabric production,
and tourist demand has swiftly shoehorned
many tailor shops into the tiny Old Town.
CAFE Shoes, also copied from Western designs, are
Mia Coffee House
(www.facebook.com/miacoffeehouse; 20 Ð Phan also popular but quality is variable. Pick up
Boi Chau; h8am-5pm) Our favourite spot the Live Hoi An (www.livehoianmagazine.
for an espresso, latte or cappuccino fea- com) map for more shopping listings.
tures a shaded corner location and good Hoi An has over a dozen art galleries
food, including grilled panini sandwiches too; check out the streets near the Japanese
and hearty baguettes. Its own coffee blend Covered Bridge, along Ð Nguyen Thi Minh
sourced from Dalat arabica beans is the Khai. Woodcarvings are a local speciality:
standout brew, and be sure to try the coffee Cam Nam village and Cam Kim Island are
affogato, a delicious blend of dessert and the places to head for.
hot beverage.
Couleurs D’Asie Gallery PHOTOGRAPHY, BOOKS
CAFE (www.facebook.com/couleurs.asie; 7 Ð Nguyen Hue;
Hoi An Roastery
(www.hoianroastery.com; 135 Ð Tran Phu; h8am- h9am-9pm) Superb images for sale of Viet-
10pm) With single origin brews, excellent nam and Asia by Hoi An–based photogra-
cakes, juices and smoothies, this cool little pher Réhahn. His portraits are particularly
spot wouldn’t be out of place in the hipster stunning, and the best of his images are col-
precincts of Portland or Melbourne. Re- lected in books also for sale.
charge with one of 200 different caffeine-­
fuelled variations, and watch the passing Metiseko CLOTHING
promenade on busy Tran Phu.
(www.metiseko.com; 86 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc;
h9am-9.30pm) S Winners of a Sustainable
BAR Development award, this eco-minded store
Dive Bar
(88 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h8am-midnight; W) The stocks gorgeous clothing (including kids’
best bar in town, with a great vibe thanks to wear), accessories, and homewares such as
the welcoming service, contemporary elec- cushions using natural silk and organic cot-
tronic tunes and sofas for lounging. There’s ton. It is certified to use the Organic Con-
also a cocktail garden and bar at the rear, a tents Standards label.
pool table and pub grub.
oVillagecraft Planet CRAFTS

White Marble BAR (www.facebook.com/villagecraftplanet; 37 Ð Phan
(www.visithoian.com; 99 Ð Le Loi; h11am-11pm; Boi Chau; h10am-6pm) S Shop here for inter-
W) Wine-bar-cum-restaurant in historic esting homewares and fashion, often using
premises with an unmatched selection of natural hemp and indigo, and crafted incor-
wines (many are available by the glass, from porating Fairtrade practices by the Hmong,
US$4) and refined ambience. Lunch and Black Thai and Lolo ethnic minority people
dinner set meals cost 230,000d. in the north of Vietnam.

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HS ho oui tpAphni-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam218

GETTING CLOTHES THAT MEASURE UP

Let’s face it: the tailor scene in Hoi An is out of control. The estimated number of tailors
working here ranges anywhere from 300 to 500. Hotels and tour guides all have their
preferred partners – ‘We give you good price’, they promise before shuttling you off to
their aunt/cousin/in-law/neighbour (from whom they’ll earn a nice commission).

The first rule of thumb is that while you should always bargain and be comfortable
with the price, you also get what you pay for. A tailor who quotes a price much lower than
a competitor’s is probably cutting corners. Better tailors and better fabrics cost more, as
do tighter deadlines.

Hoi An’s tailors are master copiers – show them a picture from a magazine, and they’ll
whip up a near-identical outfit. The shop assistants also have catalogues of many styles.

It helps to know your fabrics and preferences, right down to details such as thread col-
our, linings and buttons. When buying silk, make sure it’s the real thing. The only real test
is with a cigarette or match (synthetic fibres melt, silk burns). Similarly, don’t accept on
face value that a fabric is 100% cotton or wool without giving it a good feel for the quality.
Prices currently hover around US$25 for a man’s shirt, or US$50 for a cotton dress. If a
suit costs around US$100, make sure the fabric and workmanship is up to scratch.

Although many travellers try to squeeze in a clothing order within a 48-hour sojourn,
that doesn’t leave much time for fittings and alterations. Remember to check the seams
of the finished garment; well-tailored garments have a second set of stitches that binds
the edge, oversewing the fabric so fraying is impossible.

Shops can pack and ship orders to your home country. Although there are occasional
reports of packages going astray or the wrong order arriving, the local post office’s ser-
vice is good.

In such a crowded field, these are places we regularly hear good things about (in
alpha­betical order): A Dong Silk (%0510-391 0579; www.adongsilk.com; 40 Ð Le Loi; h8am-
9.30pm); Hoang Kim (%0510-386 2794; 57 Ɖ Nguyen Thai Hoc; h8am-9pm); Kimmy
(%0510-386 2063; www.kimmytailor.com; 70 Ð Tran Hung Dao; h7.30am-9.30pm); and Yaly
(%0510-391 0474; www.yalycouture.com; 47 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h8am-9pm).

A few of Hoi An’s tailors have now also diversified into making shoes and bags. See the
Friendly Shop (www.friendlyshophoian.com; 18 Ð Tran Phu; h9am-9pm) for good work that
is guaranteed.

oReaching Out SOUVENIRS, CLOTHING matting, hand-embroidered cushion covers,
gifts and furniture.
(www.reachingoutvietnam.com; 103 Ð Nguyen Thai
Hoc; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Sat &
Sun) S Excellent Fairtrade gift shop that Avana CLOTHING

stocks good-quality silk scarves, clothes, (www.hoiandesign.com; 57 Ð Le Loi; h8am-8pm)
Stylish boutique run by a European fashion
jewellery, hand-painted Vietnamese hats, designer that stocks fab off-the-peg dresses,
handmade toys and teddy bears. The shop
employs and supports artisans with disa- blouses, shoes and accessories (including
great hats and bags).
bilities, and staff are happy to show visitors
through the workshop.
Tuoi Ngoc HANDICRAFTS

Lotus Jewellery ACCESSORIES (103 Ð Tran Phu; h7am-8pm) This family-­
owned business has been making Chinese-­
(www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com; 82 Ð Tran Phu; style lanterns for generations.
h8am-10pm) Very affordable and attractive
hand-crafted pieces loosely modelled on but-
terflies, dragonflies, Vietnamese sampans, Randy’s Book Xchange BOOKS

conical hats and Chinese symbols. (http://bookshoian.com; To 5 Thon Xuyen Trung;
h8am-7pm) Head to Cam Nam Island and
take the first right to get to this bookshop.
Mosaique Decoration HANDICRAFTS Set up like a personal library, it has more

(www.mosaiquedecoration.com; 6 Ð Ly Quoc; than 5000 used books for sale or exchange
h7.30am-8pm) Offers stylish modern light-
ing, silk, linen and hemp clothing, bamboo and offers digital downloads too.

219

88 Information 88 Getting There & Away

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES AIR C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHInofuiotArhnm-aCte inotnr a l V i e tnam
Hoi An is one of Vietnam’s safer towns, but there The closest airport is 45 minutes away in
are infrequent stories of late-night bag-snatching, Danang.
pickpockets, and (very occasionally) assaults
on women. If you are a lone female, walk home BUS
with somebody. There have also been reports of Most north–south bus services do not stop at
drinks being spiked in some bars, so keep a close Hoi An, as Hwy 1 passes 10km west of the town,
eye on your glass. but you can head for the town of Vinh Dien and
flag down a bus there.
Many small-time hustlers peddle tours, boat
trips, motorbikes and souvenirs, and using a More convenient open-tour buses offer regular
xe om will always be more expensive than a connections for Hue (US$12, four hours) and
metered taxi. Nha Trang (regular/sleeper US$14/19, 11 to 12
hours). Most accommodation owners can book
EMERGENCY tickets.
Hoi An Police Station (% 0510-386 1204; 84
Ð Hoang Dieu) Buses to Danang (18,000d, one hour) leave
from the northern bus station just off Ð Le Hong
MEDICAL SERVICES Phong, and a 15-minute walk from central Hoi
Dr Ho Huu Phuoc Practice (% 0510-386 1419; An. Bus drivers for Danang sometimes try to
74 Ð Le Loi; h11am-12.30pm & 5-9.30pm) charge foreigners more, but the correct fare
English-speaking. is posted by the door. Look for the yellow bus.
Hoi An Hospital (% 0510-386 1364; 4 Ð Tran Note the last bus back from Danang leaves
Hung Dao; h 6am-10pm) For serious problems, around 6pm.
go to Danang.
Go Travel Vietnam (% 0510-392 9115; www.
MONEY gotravel-vietnam.com; 61a Ɖ Phan Chau Trinh;
Agribank (Ð Cua Dai; h 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, h 9am-9pm) offers shuttle bus transfers be-
8.30am-1pm Sat) Changes cash and has ATMs. tween Hoi An and Danang airport and train sta-
Vietin Bank (% 0510-386 1340; 4 Ð Hoang tion five times per day (80,000d, one hour).
Dieu; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1.30pm
Sat) Changes cash and has an ATM. CAR & MOTORCYCLE
To get to Danang (30km), head north out of town
POST and join up with Hwy 1, or head east to Cua Dai
Main Post Office (6 Ð Tran Hung Dao; h7am- Beach and follow the China Beach coastal road.
5pm) On the edge of the Old Town. Motorbikes charge about 150,000d for the trip
to Danang. Taxis cost approximately 400,000d
TOURIST INFORMATION and are cheaper if you don’t use the meter. Ne-
Hoi An Old Town Booths (h7am-5pm) Hoi An gotiate a price first.
Old Town Booths sell Old Town tickets and have
limited information and maps. Located at 30 A trip in a car to Hue starts from US$100
Ð Tran Phu, 10 Ð Nguyen Hue, 5 Ð Hoang Dieu (depending on how many stops you plan to make
and 78 Ð Le Loi. along the way), while a half-day trip around the
Live Hoi An (www.livehoianmagazine.com) surrounding area, including My Son, is around
Handy free map that is also available to view US$60.
online.
Tourist Information Office (% 0510-366 633; A popular way to transfer between Hoi An
www.quangnamtourism.com.vn; 47 Ɖ Phan and Hue is on a motorcycle. A bike with driver
Chau Trinh; h 8am-5pm) Helpful office with is around US$45, and around US$25 if you’re
good English spoken. driving.

TRAVEL AGENCIES 88 Getting Around
Competition is strong, so check out your options
and negotiate. Hoi An is best explored on foot; the Old Town
Rose Travel Service (% 0510-391 7567; www. is compact and highly walkable. To go further
rosetravelservice.com; 37-39 Ð Ly Thai To; afield, rent a bicycle (25,000d per day). The
h7.30am-5.30pm) Tours around the area and route east to Cua Dai Beach is quite scenic,
Vietnam, plus car rental and buses. passing rice paddies and a river estuary, but is
Sinh Tourist (% 0510-386 3948; www.thesinh definitely becoming more developed with hotels
tourist.vn; 587 Ð Hai Ba Trung; h 6am-10pm) and guesthouses.
Books reputable open-tour buses.
A motorbike without/with a driver will cost
around US$6/12 per day. Reckon on about
70,000d for a taxi to An Bang beach.

220 buildings and the historical homes of the
town’s merchants came from Kim Bong vil-
BOAT lage on Cam Kim Island. Most of the wood-
Boat trips on the Thu Bon River can be fascinat- carvings on sale in Hoi An are produced here.
ing. A simple rowboat (with rower) should cost
about 90,000d per hour, and one hour is prob- Boats to the island leave from the boat
ably long enough. Some My Son tours include a landing at Ð Bach Dang in Hoi An (30,000d,
return journey by boat back to central Hoi An. 30 minutes). The village and island, quite
rural in character, are fun to explore by
Motorboats can be hired to visit handicraft and bicycle.
fishing villages for around 200,000d per hour.
Boatmen wait between the Cam Nam and An Hoi
bridges in central Hoi An.

TAXI Cua Dai Beach
Metered taxis are usually cheaper than xe om.
Heading east of Hoi An, new housing and
Hoi An Taxi (% 0510-391 9919) Good local hotels mix with older rice paddies, and the
operators. riverbank meanders for around 5km to
sandy beaches. This palm-fringed coastline
Mai Linh (% 0510-392 5925) Local partners to extends north to Danang, and despite the
Vietnam-wide company. development, there are still a few quieter
stretches; it’s a good area to explore inde-
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SA iorgouhutthns-dCHe noti rAanl V i e tnam Around Hoi An pendently on two wheels.

Thanh Ha Nearest to Hoi An, Cua Dai Beach has a
few big resorts, and an ongoing and escalat-
This small village has long been known for ing problem with beach erosion exacerbated
its pottery industry. Most villagers have by the past building of hotels. If you’re stay-
switched from making bricks and tiles ing here, your daily swim will need to be in
to making pots and souvenirs for tour- the hotel’s pool, because the sandy beach has
ist trades. The artisans employed in this largely disappeared.
painstaking work are happy just to show
off their work, but prefer it if visitors buy 4 Sleeping
something. There’s a 25,000d admission fee
to the village. Thanh Ha is 3km west of Hoi Victoria Hoi An Resort RESORT $$$
An and can be easily reached on bicycle. (%0510-392 7040; www.victoriahotels.asia; r/ste
from US$120/195; naiWs) This hand-
some hotel adopts a French colonial meets
1 Sights traditional Hoi An design; check out the
vintage Citroëns outside. Rooms are mod-
Thanh Ha Terracotta Park MUSEUM ern and immaculately presented, some with

(%0510-3963 888; www.thanhhaterracotta.com; teak floors and jacuzzis, and all with balco-
Thanh Ha village; per person 50,000d; h8.30am-
5.30pm) This new museum presents an over- nies. There’s a 30m oceanside pool and good
in-house dining.
view of the history of terracotta in different
countries and cultures around the world. Of-
ten there are local craftspeople in residence Hoi An Riverside Resort HOTEL $$$
(%0510-386 4800; www.hoianriverresort.com;
in the museum’s workshop. 175 Ð Cua Dai; r from US$75; naiWs) Of-

Cam Kim Island fers classy rooms with hardwood floors and
tasteful decor, many with balconies right
The master woodcarvers who crafted the over the river. It’s a well-run establishment,
i­ntricate detail adorning Hoi An’s public about a kilometre from the beach, and has
a good restaurant, and massage and fitness
facilities. A free shuttle bus connects the
h­ otel with Hoi An.
STAY SAFE
An Bang Beach
The ocean and waves can get rough
east of Hoi An, particularly between Just 3km north of Cua Dai, An Bang is one
October and March. Many local people of Vietnam’s most happening and enjoyable
get into trouble in heavy seas, resulting beaches. Not being as impacted by the seri-
in regular fatalities. Lifeguards now work ous erosion evident at Cua Dai, at present
the beaches, but be cautious. there’s a wonderful stretch of fine sand and

221

an enormous horizon, with only the dis- organic herbs sold in local markets. Despite C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SA loreoueutphni-dnCgHe noti rAanl V i e tnam
tant Cham Islands interrupting the seaside the village location, there’s a sophistication
symmetry. to the decor, and two of the four rooms have
relaxed rice paddy views.
There’s a great selection of beachfront
bar-restaurants, and an expanding accom- Bikes are provided free of charge, and
modation scene with several stylish holiday scooters are US$4 per day.
rental houses. Access to Hoi An is easy –
just a 20-minute bike ride or a five-minute oHoi An Beach Rentals RENTAL HOUSE $$$
(70,000d) taxi journey – and staying at the
beach and visiting Hoi An on day trips is (www.hoi-an-beach-rentals.com; An Bang; Temple
a good strategy for a relaxing visit to the House US$230, Annam House US$200, CoChin
area. House US$180; aW) Asian-chic decor is
the common theme at these three lovely
At the time of research, there was a grow- self-contained rental homes in An Bang vil-
ing band of vendors selling souvenirs on the lage. Annam House (sleeps six) is a convert-
beach, but the scene is still pretty laid-back ed village home with three bedrooms and
and low-key. a beautiful garden. Nearby, CoChin House
(sleeps four) is constructed in wood in heri­
4 Sleeping tage Vietnamese style, and has an expan-
sive garden and a private lookout. Temple
The area is much quieter in the winter House (sleeps five) is the most spacious and
months, and excellent rental houses make stunning of all three, and has a lush garden
it a fine alternative for familes and friends leading to a private pavilion overlooking the
travelling together. beach.

Under the Coconut Tree GUESTHOUSE $ The white-sand expanse of An Bang
(%0168 245 5666; www.underthecoconuttree Beach is close by – along with good bars
hoian.com; An Bang; dm US$9, d US$30-40; W) and restaurants – and the switched-on
The funkiest place to stay in An Bang is ownership team of three Vietnamese, Aus-
this ramshackle garden collection of wood- tralian and American friends can help with
en and bamboo lodges and bungalows. For equipping the houses’ kitchens with local
thrifty travellers, the Coconut Dorm House produce if you’re keen to get creative at
has outdoor showers and simple, shared mealtimes.

accommodation in a breezy, open-sided pa- Hoi An Beach Bungalows RENTAL HOUSE $$$
vilion, while the Bamboo Family house ac- (%0908 117 533; www.hoianbeachbungalows.
commodates four, and the cosy Mushroom com; Lac Long Quan, An Bang; apt US$125-140;
House is couples-friendly and has a private aW) Both of these two rental homes in
bathroom. An Bang village are super-comfortable,
There’s a cool bar-restaurant area to catch surrounded by lush gardens and have been
up with other travellers. colourfully decorated. Choose from Be’s
Beach Bungalow with two bedrooms and a
An Bang Seaside Village BUNGALOW, VILLA $$ stylish self-contained kitchen, or the cosier,
(%0126 944 4567; www.anbangseasidevillage.com; one-bedroom Be’s Cottage, which is a reno-
An Bang; villa US$53-89; aW) One of the best vated traditional Vietnamese home. It’s also
beachside locations in Vietnam, these won- got a kitchen and a breezy verandah with a
derful cottages and villas are superbly situ- day bed.
ated between the coastal trees on glorious
An Bang Beach, close to restaurants. Each Nam Hai HOTEL $$$
of the six units combines modern (polished (%0510-394 0000; www.thenamhai.com; Dien
concrete) and natural materials beautifully, Duong village; villas from US$637; naiWs)
and boasts stylish furnishings and lots of About 8km north of An Bang and 15km
space. They’re serviced daily and breakfast from Hoi An, this beachfront temple of in-
is included. dulgence has it all: three pools (one is heat-

Friendly Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ ed), butler service, vast villas kitted out with
contemporary gadgets and private plunge
(www.hoian-guesthouse.com; Tra Que village; d pools, excellent fitness facilities and a world-
US$65; aWs) Around 3km from central
Hoi An – and 1km from the beach at An class spa. This all comes at an astonishing
cost, but at least service is both thoughtful
Bang – the Friendly Guesthouse has a quiet and excellent.
location in Tra Que village, the source of the

222

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m 5AS orEouAutThInN-dCGHe noti rAanl V i e tnam VISITING THE CO TU

Living high in the mountains inland from Hoi An, the Co Tu people are one of the smallest
and most traditional minority groups in Vietnam. Their villages comprise stilt houses
set around a guol, a community building used for meetings, rituals and performances.
Until quite recently, facial tattoos were common, and traditional dress is still worn when
cultural performances are given for visitors. In the French and American Wars, the Co Tu
were feared and respected fighters, and visitors often get to meet community legends
who fought bravely against the Americans.

One Co Tu settlement, Bho Hoong (%0905 101 930; www.bhohoongbungalows.com;
Bho Hoong village; 1-night/2-days per person incl meals US$468), has developed a fine com-
munity tourism project allowing visitors to stay in the village. Co Tu guides have been
trained and income is ploughed back into the area. Accommodation is in very comfortable
bungalows with classy Asian decor and spacious bathrooms trimmed with bamboo and
river stones.

The village is not set up for random visits, and can only be visited on two-day/one-
night tours from Hoi An, which include meals and sightseeing around stunning scenery
near the Lao border. Transport is either in a US jeep or an air-con car. Bho Hoong can
also be visited by self-drive motorbike tours with Hoi An–based Active Adventures Viet-
nam (p212). A longer three-day/two-night experience is also available.

5Eating food, and Vietnamese flavours include pork-
stuffed squid and fish with tamarind.
K’Tu Market & Coffee CAFE, DELI $
(An Bang; meals from 60,000d; h8am-6pm) Set
back from the beach, this new opening is White Sail

a relaxed mix of culinary cultures from the Restaurant & Bar VIETNAMESE, SEAFOOD $$
(www.anbangbeachhideaway.com/white-sails-res
Australian-Vietnamese couple who own it. taurant/; An Bang; mains 70,000-120,000d) Re-
There’s excellent coffee, a handy deli section
with Euro goodies like sundried tomatoes, located from Hoi An to the up-and-coming
dining scene at An Bang Beach, White Sail
pasta sauce and tasty homemade sausages. offers a good menu of Vietnamese classics,
The funky outdoor tables are a top spot to
enjoy K’Tu’s barbecues and even the occa- but the real attraction are the regular sea-
food barbecues. Cocktails are mixed with
sional roasted suckling pig. robust pours; cold beer and ocean and is-

Soul Kitchen INTERNATIONAL $$ land views come as mandatory side dishes.
There’s a very laid-back vibe.
(%0906 440 320; www.soulkitchen.sitew.com; An
Bang; meals 90,000-180,000d; h10am-10pm Tue-
Sun, 10am-6pm Mon; W) Oceanfront restaurant La Plage INTERNATIONAL $$
(%0510-392 8244; www.laplagebeachbar.word
with a grassy garden and thatched ­dining press.com; An Bang; meals 80,000-140,000d;
area where the daily menu could include
tuna carpaccio, seafood s­alad or ­calamari. h8am-10pm; W) This beachfront place of-
fers delicious snacks, Gallic-style salads and
There are good wines and ­cocktails too, and other French-accented main dishes. Seafood
on Sunday afternoons from around 4pm, it’s
the place to be for gigs from a crew of talent- options – usually with a Vietnamese slant –
are always strong, and breakfast at La Plage
ed locals and expats. There’s also live music is a great way to start the day. Weekends are
from 5.30pm from Thursday to ­Saturday.
very popular with An Bang’s growing band
of expats.
Sea Shell FRENCH, SEAFOOD $$
(So Bien; An Bang; mains 80,000-140,000d;
hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm) In a whitewashed Luna D’Autunno ITALIAN $$
(www.lunadautunno.vn; An Bang; meals 130,000-
villa with a lovely garden, Sea Shell’s food is 230,000d; h11am-10pm; W) Fine beachside
a mix of Vietnamese and European influ-
ences. The charming owner used to live in Italian restaurant with an authentic menu
of antipasti, salads, pasta, meat dishes and
France, and her touch shines through in Pa- the best pizza, from a wood-fired oven, in
risian bistro dishes like pâté de maison and
quiche. The roast chicken is classic comfort central Vietnam.

Cham Islands 223
snorkelling, a short hike, lunch and beach
% 0510 / POP 2800 time costs US$44. An overnight option in-
corporating beach camping is US$82.
A breathtaking cluster of granite islands, set
in aquamarine seas, around 15km direct- Ong Ngu BUDDHIST TEMPLE
ly offshore from Hoi An, the Cham Islands
make a wonderful excursion. Once closed Bai Lang’s only real sight is a modest temple
to visitors and under close military super- dedicated to the whales (and whale sharks)
vision, day trips, diving or snorkelling the once abundant around the Chams. Locals
reefs, or overnight stays are now possible. worshipped whales as oceanic deities who
would offer them protection at sea. When
The serenity of the islands has been com- a carcass washed ashore, they’d clean the
promised – especially on weekends and bones and perform an elaborate ceremo-
Vietnamese holidays – by boatloads of tour- ny at the temple before giving the bones a
ists from the mainland, so plan your visit burial. Sadly, whales are very seldom seen
accordingly. It’ll have to be between March around the Chams today.
and September, as the ocean is usually too
rough at other times. There are also plans Bac Beach BEACH
afoot to develop the islands more like a
central Vietnam version of Phu Quoc, and A recently built concrete path heads south-
coastal land has been confirmed for resort west from Bai Lang for 2km past coves to C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m AS iorgouhutthns-dC&HeAnoctitrAianvli tVi ei estnam
development. a fine, sheltered beach, where there’s great
swimming, powdery sand, and hammocks
Only the main island, Hon Lao, is in- and thatched parasols beside seafood res-
habited – the other seven Chams are rocky taurants. During holiday times the beach is
forested specks. A rich underwater environ- packed with boats coming and going. Trails
ment features 135 species of soft and hard lead into forested hills behind Bai Lang.
coral and varied macrolife. The islands are
officially protected as a marine park. Fishing 4 Sleeping & Eating
and the collection of birds’ nests (for soup)
are the two key industries here. The Chams only have simple guesthouses
(in Bai Lang) or homestays (in Bai Huong).
Bai Lang, Hon Lao’s little port, is the
main village (aside from two remote ham- oBai Huong Homestays HOMESTAY $
lets). A relaxed place with sleepy lanes, its (www.homestaybaihuong.com; per person
leeward location has long offered protection 120,000d, meals 30,000-70,000d) Live with the
for mariners from the rough waters of the locals in Bai Huong village. Visitors are giv-
South China Sea. en a bed with a mozzie net, and bathrooms
have sit-down toilets and cold-water show-
Tiny Bai Huong, a fishing village 5km ers. Delicious home-cooked meals are avail-
southeast of Bai Lang, is an idyllic but iso- able. The program works with nine families,
lated spot where an excellent homestay ini- generating income from community tour-
tiative has been established. ism. Note that little or no English is spoken
by locals and there’s usually only electricity
At the time of writing, the Vietnamese from 6pm to 10pm.
military had just approved opening up roads Local families can take guests fishing
that were formerly off limits to tourists. It’s or snorkelling (per person 150,000d), and
now possible to take a bicycle on the public trekking (per person 100,000d). The project
ferry, and ride up to terraced tea plantations has helped fund education for Bai Huong’s
and explore other areas of Hon Lao. children, including scholarships and a lo-
cal library. Also available is a good-value
1 Sights & Activities three-day/two-night package (per person
980,000d) including all meals, and snorkel-
Unsurprisingly, divers and snorkellers are ling, fishing and trekking excursions. See
some of the main visitors to the Cham I­ slands. the website also for a two-day/one-night
While the diving isn’t world class (visibility package.
can be poor and overfishing is a problem), it
is intriguing: five species of lobster, 84 spe- Thu Trang GUESTHOUSE $
cies of mollusc and some 202 species of fish (%0510-393 0007; r with shared bathroom
are endemic to the Chams. Dive trips and 300,000d; hBai Lang village) Right by the
overnight stays can be arranged through dive whale temple in the main village of Bai
centres in Hoi An, such as Cham Island Div- Lang, it’s tidy, clean and simple. Meals are
ing Center (p211); a full-day trip that includes

224 My Son was once the most important intel-
available (around 200,000d for breakfast, lectual and religious centre of the kingdom of
lunch and dinner). Champa and may also have served as a burial
place for Cham monarchs. It was rediscovered
Ngan Ha VIETNAMESE, SEAFOOD $ in the late 19th century by the French, who
(%0510-386 2178; Bai Lang village; mains 70,000- restored parts of the complex, but American
150,000d) Well-priced seafood – including bombing later devastated the temples. Today
squid dishes and occasionally lobster – fea- it is a Unesco World Heritage Site.
ture at this newish Bai Lang eatery with
harbour views from the balconies. There are The ruins get very busy, so go early or late
also rooms for rent (300,000d) if the other if you can. By departing from Hoi An at 5am
guesthouse in the village is full. or 6am, you’ll arrive for sunrise and should
be leaving when tour groups arrive.
Cham Restaurant VIETNAMESE $
(%0510-224 1108; meals 50,000-120,000d; Archaeologists have divided My Son’s mon-
h10am-5pm) About 2km southwest of town, uments into 10 main groups, uninspiringly
Cham Restaurant sits pretty on a stunning named A, A’, B, C, D, E, F, G, H and K. Each
sandy beach and serves wonderful Vietnam- structure within that group is given a number.
ese dishes, including lots of seafood. Most
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m GMS oeytuSttoihnn-gC eTnhterrael&VAi ertonuanmd of the day-trip boats from Hoi An also stop Only a handful of the monuments are
along this beach. properly labelled, but recent ongoing restora-
tion has introduced a range of good informa-
tion panels outlining the history of the site.

88 Getting There & Around History

Tour agencies charge US$25 to US$40 for island My Son (pronounced ‘me sun’) became a re-
tours, but most day trips are very rushed and ligious centre under King Bhadravarman in
give you little time to enjoy the Chams. Speed- the late 4th century and was continuously
boats are often crowded, time for snorkelling occupied until the 13th century – the longest
limited, and the coral and marine life on display period of development of any monument in
only average. Southeast Asia. Most of the temples were dedi-
cated to Cham kings associated with divinities,
If possible, we recommend a few nights at the particularly Shiva, who was regarded as the
Bai Huong homestay program to experience the founder and protector of Champa’s dynasties.
best of the islands. For the best one-day experi-
ence, book with one of the specialised dive oper- Because some of the ornamentation work
ators in Hoi An. They can also arrange overnight at My Son was never finished, archaeologists
camping stays. know that the Chams first built their struc-
tures and only then carved decorations into
Public boats to Cham Island dock at Bai Lang the brickwork.
village. There’s a scheduled daily connection
from a jetty on Ð Nguyen Hoang in Hoi An (two During one period in their history, the
hours, 7am). Foreigners are routinely charged summits of some of the towers were com-
up to 150,000d. Bring a copy of your passport pletely covered with a layer of gold. After the
and visa as the boat captain needs to prepare a area fell into decline, many of the temples
permit. Note that boats do not sail during heavy were stripped of their glory. The French
seas. From Bai Lang, a return ferry back to Hoi moved some of the remaining sculptures
An leaves around 11am. and artefacts to the Museum of Cham Sculp-
ture in Danang – fortuitously so, because the
Local boatmen and xe om offer connections be- VC used My Son as a base during the Amer-
tween Bai Lang and Bai Huong; the rate is about ican War and American bombing destroyed
30,000d for a boat and 100,000d for a xe om. many of the most important monuments.

My Son 1 Sights

The site of Vietnam’s most extensive Cham Group B HINDU TEMPLE
remains, My Son (admission 100,000d;
h6.30am-4pm) enjoys an enchanting setting The main kalan (sanctuary), B1, was dedicat-
in a lush jungle valley, overlooked by Cat’s ed to Bhadresvara, which is a contraction of
Tooth Mountain (Hon Quap). The temples the name of King Bhadravarman, who built
are in poor shape – only about 20 structures the first temple at My Son, combined with
survive where at least 68 once stood – but ‘-esvara’, which means Shiva. The first build-
the intimate nature of the site, surrounded ing on this site was erected in the 4th centu-
by gurgling streams, is still enthralling. ry, destroyed in the 6th century and rebuilt in

225

My Son Groups E & F (180m);
Group K (480m)
Car Park & Musuem
(2km)
D Group G
Khe The Stream D
C7 C6 C5 C4
C1

Group C C2

B12B13 C3 D2
Group B B6
B11 B1 D3 D4
B2 Group D

B3 B7 D1 A10
B8 A1
B10 B4 B9 B5 Group A
Sea-Monster
D5 God Carving

D6 A9 A8

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SMioyguhSttohsn- C e nt r a l V i e tnamA11 A13

D A'2 A12
A'1
Group A'

A'3

Cat's Tooth Mountain A'4
(70km)

the 7th century. Only the 11th-century base, B3 has an Indian-influenced pyramidal
made of large sandstone blocks, remains. roof typical of Cham towers. Inside B6 is a
bath-shaped basin for keeping sacred water
The niches in the wall were used to hold that was poured over the linga in B1; this is
lamps (Cham sanctuaries had no windows). the only known example of a Cham basin.
The linga inside was discovered during exca- B2 is a gate.
vations in 1985, 1m below its current position.
Around the perimeter of Group B are
B5, built in the 10th century, was used for small temples, B7 to B13, dedicated to
storing sacred books and objects used in cer- the gods of the directions of the compass
emonies performed in B1. The boat-shaped (dikpalaka).
roof (the ‘bow’ and ‘stern’ have fallen off)
demonstrates the Malay-Polynesian architec- Group A HINDU TEMPLE
tural influence. Unlike the sanctuaries, this
building has windows and the Cham masonry Group A was almost completely destroyed by
inside is original. Over the window on the out- US bombs. According to locals, the massive
side wall facing B4 is a brick bas-relief of two A1, considered the most important monu-
elephants under a tree with two birds in it. ment at My Son, remained impervious to
aerial bombing and was intentionally finished
The ornamentation on the exterior walls off by a helicopter-borne sapper team. All that
of B4 is an excellent example of a Cham dec- remains today is a pile of collapsed brick walls.
orative style, typical of the 9th century and After the destruction of A1, Philippe Stern, an
said to resemble worms. The style is unlike expert on Cham art, wrote a letter of protest
anything found in other Southeast Asian
cultures.

226 CAR & MOTORCYCLE
to US president Nixon, who ordered US forces My Son is 55km from Hoi An. A hired car with
to stop damaging Cham monuments. driver costs around US$50. The site is ade-
A1 was the only Cham sanctuary with two quately signposted with your own wheels.
doors. One faced east, in the direction of the
Hindu gods; the other faced west towards Tra Kieu (Simhapura)
Groups B, C and D and the spirits of the an-
cestor kings reputedly buried there. Inside Formerly called Simhapura (Lion Citadel),
A1 is a stone altar. Among the ruins, some of Tra Kieu was the first capital of Champa
the brilliant brickwork (typical 10th-­century from the 4th century to the 8th century.
style) is still visible. At the base of A1 on the Today nothing remains of the ancient city
side facing A10 (decorated in 9th-century except the rectangular ramparts. Some of
style) is a carving of a small worshipping fig- the finest carvings in the Museum of Cham
ure flanked by round columns, with a Java- Sculpture (p195) in Danang were found here.
nese sea-monster god (kala-makara) above.
Atop Buu Chau Hill is the modern Moun-
Group C HINDU TEMPLE tain Church (Nha Tho Nui), built in 1970 to
replace an earlier structure destroyed by an
The 8th-century C1 was used to worship American bomb. The church is about 200m
Shiva, portrayed here in human form. In- from the morning market (Cho Tra Kieu).
C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m STGroe atuttKihine-gCueT(nhStiemrrhaeal&pVuAi ewrtan)yam side is an altar where a statue of Shiva, now
in the Museum of Cham Sculpture (p195) The 19th-century Tra Kieu Church (Dia
in Danang, used to stand. Note the motifs, So Tra Kieu) is home to a museum (Van
characteristic of the 8th century, carved into Hoa Cham) of Cham artefacts kept in a
the brickwork of the exterior walls. With the locked, dusty room on the 2nd floor of the
massive bomb crater in front of this group, building to the right of the church. Accord-
it’s amazing that anything’s still standing. ing to local belief, this church was the site of
a miracle in 1885. Catholic villagers, under
My Son Museum MUSEUM attack by anti-French forces, saw a vision of
a lady in white, believed to be Mary, whom
(admission with entrance ticket; h6.30am-4pm) they credit with protecting them from in-
My Son’s impressive museum has many stat- tense shelling. To get here, follow the signs
ues from the site and information about how from the Mountain Church.
the temples were constructed, the carvings
and statues and architecture. Cham culture, Tra Kieu is 6.5km from Hwy 1 and 19.5km
religion and way of life are also explained. from My Son. Some day trips to My Son
from Hoi An include a stop-off at Tra Kieu.
Other Groups HINDU TEMPLE
Chien Dan
Buildings D1 and D2 were once meditation
halls and now house small displays of Cham The elegant Cham towers at Chien Dan
sculpture. Dating from the 8th century, A (Chien Dan Cham; Hwy 1; admission 15,000d;
is overgrown and inaccessible. Preservation h8-11.30am & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri) are located
has now been completed at Group G, where just outside Tam Ky and the only other
a roof arches over the 12th-century temples, building nearby is a small museum. Dating
and there is also a new exhibition space from the 11th or 12th century, each kalan
with archaeological findings from the site. faces east. Many decorative friezes remain
Group E was built between the 8th and on the outside walls.
11th centuries, while Group F dates from
the 8th century; both were badly bombed. The middle tower was dedicated to Shiva;
Follow the path towards K – a stand-alone at the front left-hand edge of its base there
small tower – to loop back towards the car are carvings of dancing girls and a fight
park. scene. Look for the grinning faces high up
between this and the left tower (honouring
88 Getting There & Away Brahma) and the two elephants at the rear.
The right-hand tower is dedicated to Vishnu.
BUS & MINIBUS
Hotels in Hoi An can arrange day trips to My Son Although the towers escaped the bomb-
(US$5 to US$10). Most minibuses depart at 8am ing that ravaged My Son, bullet holes from
and return between 1pm and 2pm. For the boat- the American War are evident.
ride option on the return leg, add an extra hour.
‘Sunrise’ trips do not mean you’ll see the first ray This rarely visited site is on the right as you
of morning light, but they do beat the crowds. approach Tam Ky, 47km south of Hoi An.

©Lone2ly2 7

CARSTEN PETER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Scenes of
Vietnam

Towering mountains define the north. Stunning Contents
beaches and tropical islands spoil travellers along the
country’s coast. And French colonial charm and iconic ¨¨Islands & Beaches
skyscrapers are highlights in the buzzing big cities. ¨¨Caves & Highlands
¨¨City Life

Above: Hang En (p163), Phong Nha-
Ke Bang National Park

228 CINDYBUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Basket boats on An Bang Beach 2. Parasailing, Nha Trang
3. Nha Trang’s beachfront skyline 4. Cat Ba Island

EURASIA PRESS/GETTY IMAGES ©

229

DAVID HANNAH/GETTY IMAGES © Islands &
Beaches

Vietnam has an incredible coastline that’s
home to some of Asia’s most sublime
sandy beaches. Offshore islands – from
mountainous Cat Ba in the north to
tropical Phu Quoc in the south – also beg
to be explored.

LENA_SERDITOVA/GETTY IMAGES © An Bang Beach

A short ride from Hoi An, An Bang
(p220) is a gorgeous expanse of pale sand
backed by a protective emerald ribbon
of casuarina trees. It’s barely developed
and very low key, with local families
providing sunloungers and serving drinks
and snacks. The oceanic horizon is only
interrupted by the craggy Cham Islands.

Bai Xep

South of Quy Nhon (p238), this lovely
sandy bay is drawing more and more
travellers. It’s one of the few places in
Vietnam where you can bag a guesthouse
room right on the shore with an ocean
view. Bai Xep doubles as a fishing village,
so it’s also a good spot to interact with
locals and enjoy some seriously chilled
beach time.

Nha Trang

The city of Nha Trang (p247) boasts
one of the finest municipal beaches in
Asia, a breathtaking strip of fine, golden
sand lapped by the balmy waters of the
South China Sea. During the day it’s a
very mellow scene, but on weekends the
Sailing Club fires up its legendary sound
system to host Vietnam’s best beach
party.

Cat Ba Island

This rugged, forested island (p112), most
of which is a national park, is a great
base to for hiking, biking and adventure
tourism. Trails across the island fringe
the habitat of one of the world’s rarest
primates, the highly endangered Cat Ba
langur. And Cat Ba is just a short boat
ride from the spectacular karst islets of
Lan Ha Bay.

230 ANNAPURNA MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Villagers in the Tonkinese Alps 2. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National
Park 3. Karst Mountains 4. Thatched rong, Kon Tum

DAVE STAMBOULIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

231

MIHTIANDER/GETTY IMAGES © Caves &
Highlands

Vietnam is blessed with some of the
world’s most awe-inspiring cave systems.
Its northern and western highlands,
topped by ghostly, shape-shifting clouds
and mist, form the heartland of the
nation’s minority people.

KEVIN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES © Tonkinese Alps

The spectacular Tonkinese Alps
soar skywards along the rugged,
uncompromising edges of the country
and include Fansipan (p137), Vietnam’s
highest peak. From sinuous and spidery
ridges, rice terraces cascade down into
river valleys home to ethnic minority
villages of Hmong, Red Dzao and Giay
peoples.

Phong Nha-Ke
Bang National Park

The western side of this national park
(p162) is home to highland jungle that
includes the highest concentration of
tigers in Vietnam. But Phong Nha is best
known for its simply extraordinary cave
systems, which include Hang Son Doong,
the world’s largest cave.

Highland Culture

Dotted around the southwest highlands
town of Kon Tum (p307), Bahnar villages
are wonderful places to experience
minority culture. Marvel at the soaring
rongs (thatched community houses), go
fishing with locals and watch kids swim
their herds of cattle across rivers.

Karst Mountains

Vietnam’s highlands are characterised by
spectacular limestone outcrops known
as karst formations. These remarkable
peaks stretch from the far north-eastern
mountains in Ha Giang (p148) and Cao
Bang provinces down towards the Laos
border.

232

CJ_ROMAS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Dragon Bridge (p195), Danang

City Life

Grace and space aren’t qualities normally Parks & Boulevards
associated with booming Asian metropo­
lises, but Vietnamese cities have a class Once dubbed the ‘Paris of the Orient’,
and heritage of their own. A strong French Hanoi is Vietnam’s greenest and most
Colonial architectural influence is evident elegant big city, replete with parks and
throughout the country. lakes. For French colonial nostalgia, a
stroll along one of Haiphong’s (p104)
Vistas boulevards can’t be matched, while
Dalat’s lakeside lanes and Flower
If you want the full picture, seek out the Gardens should not be missed.
high life. In Hanoi, the Lotte Tower (p69)
offers a terrific perspective of the West Riverside
Lake and Old Quarter from its 64th floor
bar. Danang (p193) has many skybars Booming Danang rightly gets rave reviews
that serve up unmatched views of the for the regeneration of its beautiful Han
bustling Han riverside, while Nha Trang’s river, which is now spanned by some of
astonishing new Skylight Bar (p259) sets the most astonishing bridges in the world
the standard on the southeastern coast. (including the fire-breathing Dragon
Down in HCMC, the 48th-floor Saigon Bridge; p195). In HCMC, it’s all about
Skydeck (p318) reveals the beating heart the timeless French-era architecture of
of the city in all its neon glory. buildings like the Majestic Hotel on the
Saigon River, while a cruise along Nha
Trang’s Cai River will reveal city life
beyond the touristy beach zone.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Southeast Coast

Includes  Why Go?

Quang Ngai. . . . . . . . . 235 Once the heartland of the Cham civilisation, today this spar-
Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . 238 kling coastline of ravishing white sands is Vietnam’s pre-
Cha Ban Cham mier destination for beach holidays.
Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 If your idea of paradise is reclining in front of turquoise
Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . 247 waters, weighing up the merits of a massage or a mojito,
Phan Rang & then you have come to the right place. On hand to comple-
Thap Cham. . . . . . . . . 263 ment the sedentary delights are activities to set the pulse
Mui Ne. . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 racing, including scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, wind-
Phan Thiet. . . . . . . . . . 272 surfing and kitesurfing.
Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Nha Trang and Mui Ne attract the headlines, but the
Con Dao Islands. . . . . 279 beach breaks come thick and fast in this part of the country.
Set aside a few days to explore more and you’ll find hidden
coves and lonely lighthouses, and a barefoot vibe is in reach.
And for the definitive castaway experience, the fabled Con
Dao Islands are the ultimate off-grid destination.

Best Places to Eat When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
32/800
¨¨Ganh Hao (p277) Quang Ngai
¨¨Lac Canh Restaurant
(p258) °C/°F Temp
¨¨Sandals (p271) 40/104
¨¨Kiwami (p259)
¨¨Mix (p258) 30/86 24/600

Best Beaches 20/68 16/400

¨¨Doc Let (p245) 10/50 8/200
¨¨Bai Mon (p246)
¨¨Mui Ne (p265) 0/32 MAM J 0
¨¨Bai Dai (p262) JF J ASOND
¨¨Nha Trang (p247)
¨¨My Khe (p202) Jul The perfect Oct See Cham Dec Enjoy
time to sample people celebrate Christmas in
the delights and kate, or new year, Mui Ne with the
sights of Nha at Po Klong Garai best kitesurfing
Trang. temple. and windsurfing
conditions.

234 Que Son Tam Hai Island 0
Hiep Duc Tam Ky 50 km
Southeast Tam Hoa 0 25 miles
Coast QUANG NAM
Highlights Phuoc Chu Lai Ly Son Island
Son Binh Son
1 Finding beautiful Tra My
beaches, snorkelling Tra Bong My Khe Beach
coral reefs and riding QUANG Son My
motorbikes along NGAI Nghia Quang Ngai
empty coastal roads Son Ha Hanh
in the Con Dao Mo Duc
Islands (p279). Minh
2 Kitesurfing by day Long
and chilling at night Duc Pho
in the beach-blessed KON TUM
resort of Mui Ne
(p265). Kon Plong Ba To Sa Huynh
3 Coming face-to- Dac To An Lao
face with the horrors BINH 1
of war at the poignant Kon Tum DINH Hoai Nhon
Son My Memorial
(p236). Hoai An
4 Taking a road
trip between Phan Duong Long
Thiet and Long Hai GIA LAI Cham Towers
via a spectacular Phu My
lighthouse and the Quang Banh It Cham
endless sands of Ho Trung Phu Cat Towers
Tram (p273) and Ho Pleiku 19 Museum
Coc (p273). Chu Mang An Phu Cha Ban
5 Combing Prong Yang Khe Cham Ruins
white-sand beaches Binh Dinh
for driftwood and
seeking out a whale Ham Phuong Quy Nhon
graveyard in Tam Hai Ho
Island (p235). Bai Xep Beach
6 Soaking up the So u th e as t C oas t C o ast H ighlights Chu Se Van
unique beach scene Canh
or exploring offshore
islands by boat in the 14 Song Cau
bombastic town of
Nha Trang (p247). A Yun Pa 1
7 Eating surf-fresh
seafood by the waves Ea H'Leo Krong Pa Chi Thanh Ganh Da Dia
in Vung Tau (p275). 7 Son Hoa An Hai

Tuy Hoa

Song 1
Hinh PHU
Krong YEN Bai Mon Beach
Cu Ngar Buk
Buon Ma 26 Dai Vung Ro
Van Lanh Bay
Thuot M'Drak Ninh
Krong Hon Gom
Krong Peninsula
A Na Pach DAC
LAC Ninh Hoa Doc Let Beach

Lak Ba Ho Hon Lao
Khanh Falls
Lang Bian Vinh Dien Nha Ninh Van
Mountain Trang Bay
(2167m) Khanh Hon Tre
KHANH
Bai Dai Beach
HOA Cam Ranh Airport

27 Dalat Dan Khanh
Nhim Son

Duc Lake NINH Cam Ranh
LAM Trong THUAN
DONG Ngoan Ninh Son
Muc Pass 20 1
20
Po Klong Garai Phan Rang & Thap Cham
Di Linh Cham Towers
Ninh Chu Beach
Bao Loc Po Ro Me
Cham Tower Bau Truc
BINH
THUAN Ca Na
Vinh Hao

Ham Tuy Phong SOUTH
Thuan Bac Binh CHINA

Ham Nam SEA
Ninh
Cu Phan Mui Ne
1 Thiet Mui Ne Beach
Mountain
Ta
(688m)
Ho Tram; Ho Coc (40km);
Vung Tau (75km); Con Dao Islands (270km)

235

Dong Khanh Hotel HOTEL $
(%055-382 4481; www.khachsandongkhanh.com;
Quang Ngai 46-48 Ba Trieu; r 220,000-280,000d; aW) This
seven-storey block is fine value for money,
% 055 / POP 124,000 with clean whitewashed rooms (some with
balcony) that have attractive wooden furni-
The capital of Quang Ngai province is some- ture; all have air-con and bathrooms.
thing of an overgrown village with no obvi-
ous attractions, so most visitors only drop Petro Song Tra Hotel HOTEL $$
by for a spot of grazing at lunchtime. The (%055-382 2665; www.petrosetco.com.vn; 2 Ð
few travellers who venture here come to pay Quang Trung; r US$42-68; aiWs) A riverside
their respects to the victims of the most fa- tower that’s the town’s most luxurious ad-
mous atrocity of the American War at near- dress, complete with an opulent lobby. The
by Son My. rooms, many with sweeping views, could be
better maintained, but are spacious.
Even before WWII, Quang Ngai was a cen-
tre of resistance against the French. During 5 Eating
the Franco–Viet Minh War, the area was a Viet
Minh stronghold. In 1962, the South Vietnam- Quang Ngai province is famous for com ga:
ese government introduced its ill-fated Strate- boiled chicken over yellow rice (steamed
gic Hamlets Program. Villagers were forcibly with chicken broth) with mint, egg soup and
removed from their homes and resettled in pickled vegetables.
fortified hamlets, infuriating and alienating
the local population and increasing popular Viet Chay Sala VEGETARIAN $
support for the Viet Cong (VC or Vietnamese (83 Ð Cach Mang Thang Tam; meals 30,000-
Communists). 70,000d; h6.30am-8.30pm; v) Inviting, well- So u th e as t C oas t QS lueaenpginNggai
run vegetarian restaurant with selection of
4 Sleeping tempting dishes: noodles, spring rolls, tofu

The beach at nearby My Khe (p202) is close
and has a good accommodation option.

TAM HAI ISLAND

A tiny (6km-wide), rarely visited island scattered with a handful of fishing villages and
coconut-palm-fringed beaches, Tam Hai is mellow, accessible and well worth a visit. Cul-
turally, it’s a fascinating place, with some minor Cham ruins, an ancient whale graveyard
and some unique festivals.

Tam Hai Island is 43km north of Quang Ngai, connected by boats (5000d, every 20 min-
utes, 7am to noon and 1.30pm to 10pm) from the mainland port of Tam Hoa. On arrival in
Tam Hai you can hire bicycles and motorbikes to tour the island from cafes by the pier.

It’s a flat 2km ride northwest to the main village (Tam Hai) where you’ll find seafood
restaurants and stores. Heading right (north) from the village it’s 2km to a whale gravesite.
Continuing west from the village you pass Ban Than, a 40m-high black rocky outcrop; below
which there’s a good snorkelling spot in the calmer summer months (April to August).

Before you make the hike up Ban Than, flag any of the coconut sellers down and ask
them to take you to the Cham well and temple ruin, which is hidden down a narrow dirt
track under a canopy of coconut trees, almost impossible to find on your own. The well
water is considered the most sacred and pure on the island, so the islanders use it to
make rice wine that locals believe can cure seasickness.

Ancient traditions run deep in Tam Hai, and islanders regularly gather to host a multi-
tude of festivals connected with the sea. There’s an annual whale festival on 20th Janu-
ary, and a large festival, Le Khao Le The Linh, celebrated annually on the March full moon
to honour fishermen lost at sea. Village elders build miniature replicas of fishing boats,
each with a small mannequin of the deceased, and shamen chant prayers before the
boats are cast out to sea along with hundreds of candles to guide the lost souls to safety.

If you like the island so much you want to stay, the peaceful Le Domaine de Tam
Hai (%0510-354 5105; www.tamhairesort.com; villa US$100) resort enjoys a romantic, se-
cluded beachside setting.

236 reacted to the massacre of My Lai with hor-
and soups, all beautifully presented and ror, shame and shock, but also with disbelief’.
served with dips and sauces. It’s on a side
street 300m south of Le Trung Dinh. Centred on a dramatic stone sculpture
of an elderly woman holding up her fist in
Bac Son VIETNAMESE $ defiance, a dead child in her arms, the mon-
(23 Ð Hung Vuong; mains 27,000-80,000d; ument rises high above the landscape.
h7.30am-8.45pm) This ever-popular restau-
rant on busy Ð Hung Vuong has been in Surrounding the main sculpture, scenes
business since 1943. It serves tasty, econom- have been recreated in peaceful gardens
ical Vietnamese food and has an English to reflect the aftermath of that fateful day.
menu and a friendly owner. Burnt-out shells of homes stand in their orig-
inal locations, each marked with a plaque
88 Getting There & Away listing the names and ages of the family that
once resided there. The concrete connecting
AIR the ruins is coloured to represent a dirt path,
The nearest airport is Chu Lai (VCL), 36km north and indented with the heavy bootprints of
of Quang Ngai; it’s sometimes still called Tam Ky American soldiers and the bare footprints of
airport, its old name. Vietnam Airlines, Jetstar fleeing villagers.
and VietJet Air all fly to Ho Chi Minh City, and
Vietnam Airlines also has flights to Hanoi. A taxi The massacre was painstakingly docu-
here from town is around 400,000d. mented by a US military photographer, and
these graphic images are now the showcase
So u th e as t C oas t AGretotuinndg QTuhaenreg &N gAawiay BUS of a powerful museum on-site. Inevitably,
Quang Ngai bus station (Ð Le Thanh Ton) is the content is incredibly harrowing: villag-
situated to the south of the centre, 50m east ers are shown cowering from troops, there
of Ð Quang Trung. Regular buses head to all are corpses of children and limbless victims.
the major stops on Hwy 1, including Danang The display ends on a hopeful note, chroni-
(from 55,000d, two hours) and Quy Nhon (from cling the efforts of the local people to rebuild
78,000d, four hours). Open-tour buses can their lives afterwards. A section honours the
drop you off here, but pick-ups are harder to GIs who tried to stop the carnage, shielding
arrange; try contacting Sinh Tourist (p492). a group of villagers from certain death, and
those responsible for blowing the whistle.
CAR & MOTORBIKE
By road from Quang Ngai, it’s 100km to Hoi An, The road to Son My passes through par-
174km to Quy Nhon and 412km to Nha Trang. ticularly beautiful countryside: rice paddies,
cassava patches and vegetable gardens shad-
TRAIN ed by casuarinas and eucalyptus trees. How-
Trains stop at Quang Ngai train station (Ga ever, if you look closely you can still make out
Quang Nghia; % 055-382 0280; 204 Ð Nguyen the odd bomb crater, and the bare hilltops
Chi Thanh), 1.5km west of the town centre. Des- are testimony to the continuing environmen-
tinations include Danang (92,000d, 2½ hours), tal devastation caused by Agent Orange.
Dieu Tri, for Quy Nhon (114,000d, three hours)
and Nha Trang (259,000d, seven hours). The best way to get to Son My is by mo-
torbike (around 140,000d including wait-
Around Quang Ngai ing time) or regular taxi (about 350,000d
return). From Quang Ngai, head north on
Son My (My Lai) Ð Quang Trung (Hwy 1) and cross the long
bridge over the Tra Khuc River. Take the first
This tranquil rural spot was the setting for right (eastward, parallel to the river) where
one of the most horrific crimes of the Ameri- a triangular concrete stela indicates the way
can War: a massacre committed by US troops and follow the road for 12km.
that killed 504 villagers, many of them elder-
ly people and children on 16 March 1968. My Khe Beach
The deeply poignant Son My Memorial (ad-
mission 10,000d; h7am-4.30pm) was construct- % 055
ed as a monument to their memory.
A world away from the sombre atmosphere
The war crime was one of the pivotal mo- of the Son My Memorial, but only a couple
ments of the conflict, shaping public percep- of kilometres down the road, My Khe (not to
tions in the USA and across the world. As be confused with the other My Khe Beach in
Life magazine put it, ‘the American people Danang) is a superb beach, with fine white
sand and clear water. It stretches for kilo-
metres along a thin, casuarina-lined spit of

237

MY LAI MASSACRE So u th e as t C oas t SA lreoeupnidngQ &u aEnagtiNnggai

At about 7.30am on 16 March 1968, the US Army’s Charlie Company landed by helicop-
ter in the west of Son My, regarded as a Viet Cong stronghold. The area had been bom-
barded with artillery, and the landing zone was raked with rocket and machine-gun fire
from helicopter gunships. They encountered no resistance during the ‘combat-
assault’, nor did they come under fire at any time during the operation, but as soon as
their sweep eastward began, so did the atrocities.

As the soldiers of the 1st Platoon moved through Xom Lang, they shot and bayoneted
fleeing villagers, threw hand grenades into houses and bomb shelters, slaughtered live-
stock and burned dwellings. Somewhere between 75 and 150 unarmed villagers were
rounded up and herded to a ditch, where they were executed by machine-gun fire.

In the next few hours, as command helicopters circled overhead and American Navy
boats patrolled offshore, the 2nd Platoon, the 3rd Platoon and the company headquar-
ters group also became involved in the attacks. At least half a dozen groups of civilians,
including women and children, were assembled and executed. Villagers fleeing towards
Quang Ngai were shot. As these massacres were taking place, at least four girls and
women were raped or gang-raped by groups of soldiers.

According to the memorial here, a total of 504 Vietnamese were killed during the
massacre; US Army sources determined the total number of dead at 347.

Troops who participated were ordered to keep their mouths shut, but several diso-
beyed orders and went public with the story after returning to the USA, including heli-
copter pilot Hugh Thompson Jr, who managed to rescue several women and children on
that fateful day. When the story broke in the newspapers, it had a devastating effect on
the military’s morale and fuelled further public protests against the war. It did little to
persuade the world that the US Army was fighting on behalf of the Vietnamese people.
Unlike WWII veterans, who returned home to parades and glory, soldiers coming home
from Vietnam often found themselves ostracised and branded ‘baby killers’.

A cover-up of the atrocities was undertaken at all levels of the US Army command,
eventually leading to several investigations. Lieutenant William Calley, leader of the 1st
Platoon, was court-martialled and found guilty of the murders of 22 unarmed civilians.
He was sentenced to life imprisonment in 1971 and spent three years under house arrest
at Fort Benning, Georgia, while appealing his conviction.

Calley was paroled in 1974 after the US Supreme Court refused to hear his case. The
case still causes controversy – many claim that he was made a scapegoat because of his
low rank, and that officers much higher up ordered the massacres. What is certain is that
he didn’t act alone.

For the full story of this event and its aftermath, pick up a copy of Four Hours in My Lai
by Michael Bilton and Kevin Sim, a stunning piece of journalism.

sand, separated from the mainland by Song My Khe Hotel HOTEL $
Kinh Giang, a body of water just inland (%055-84 3316; [email protected]; My
from the beach. If you follow the golden rule Khe; s/d/tr 360,000/400,000/555,000d; aW) A
(avoiding holidays and weekends), you’ve great option just off the beach with smart,
a good chance of having this pretty beach good-value rooms, all with attractive fur-
largely to yourself. The shoreline’s profile is nishings, marble floors and flat-screen TVs.
gently shelving so it’s great for children. There’s a restaurant at the front.

4 Sleeping & Eating Duc Chien SEAFOOD $
(My Khe beach; meals 50,000-120,000d; h9am-
Accommodation options are very limited in- 8pm; c) Seafood place that specialises
deed, but you won’t go hungry on My Khe in delicious prawns in sweet chilli sauce,
beach (particularly if you like seafood). Doz- which you barbecue yourself. It also offers
ens of seafood shacks are spread along the good crab and snapper and has a menu in
shore, all in a line, and gallons of beer are English.
guzzled on warm weekends. Settle on prices
in advance.

238

Quy Nhon climb the statue if the door is open and peek
out through the eyes. Heading south, a strik-
% 056 / POP 298,000 ing socialist-realist war memorial dominates
a small square.
A large, prosperous coastal city, Quy Nhon
(pronounced ‘hwee ngon’) boasts a terrific Thap Doi Cham Towers HINDU TEMPLE
beach-blessed shoreline and grand boule-
vards. Its seaside appeal and tidy, litter-free (admission 10,000d; h8-11am & 1-6pm) This pair
streets make it the kind of place that afflu- of Cham towers sits within the city limits
ent Vietnamese couples choose to retire to, in a pretty park. Steep steps lead up to the
spending their final days ocean-gazing and temples, which are open to the sky. Atypical-
promenade-walking. ly for Cham architecture, they have curved
pyramidal roofs rather than the usual ter-
Quy Nhon is certainly a good spot to sam- racing. The larger tower (20m tall) retains
ple some fresh seafood, but for most foreign some of its ornate brickwork and remnants
visitors the city’s attractions are less obvious. of the granite statuary that once graced its
However, growing numbers are being drawn summit. The dismembered torsos of garuda
to Bai Xep cove, 12km south of the centre, (half-human, half-bird) can be seen at the
where a cool little scene has developed corners of the roofs. Take Ð Tran Hung Dao
around a crop of new guesthouses. west away from the centre and look out for

1 Sights the towers on the right.

oMunicipal Beach BEACH Binh Dinh Museum MUSEUM

The long sweep of Quy Nhon’s beachfront (28 Ð Nguyen Hue; h7-11am & 2-5pm Apr-Sep, 7.30-
11am & 1.30-4.30pm Oct-Mar) F A small mu-
So u th e as t C oas t QS iugyhNtsh o n extends from the port in the northeast to seum that concentrates on regional history.
the hills in the south. It’s a beautiful stretch
of sand and has been given a major facelift The entry hall focuses on local communism,
including a silk print (by Zuy Nhat, 1959)
in recent years, making it almost as nice showing a fat French colonist sitting aloft
as Nha Trang, but with a fraction of the
visitors. mandarins, in turn supported by bureau-
crats, and cruel bosses, with the struggling
Towards the northern end, the nicest masses supporting the whole ensemble. The
section is near the Saigon Quy Nhon Ho-
tel, where a grove of coconut trees lines the room to the left has a small natural-history
section and some Cham statues, while the
road. At dawn and in the evenings this area rear room has the bulk of the impressive
is packed with locals practising t’ai chi.
South along the shore, the waterfront Cham collection.
The room to the right of the entrance is
opens up to a parklike promenade, punc- devoted to the American War, with local rel-
tuated by large hotels. Here the beach gets
more beautiful and secluded, away from the ics such as the ‘Spittoon of Heroic Vietnam-
ese Mother Huynh Thi Bon’.
bustle of town. At night the bright lights of
offshore squid boats give the illusion of a
floating village far out to sea. Quy Hoa Beach &

In the distance you can see a giant stat- Leper Hospital HISTORIC SITE

ue of Tran Hung Dao giving the Chinese the F Leprosy may not conjure up images
of fun in the sun, but this really is a lovely
finger on the far headland. It is possible to spot. As leper hospitals go, this one is highly

unusual, a sort of model village near the sea-
front. There are not so many patients here
these days, but the descendants of affected
BAI BAU BEACH families continue to live together here in a
well-kept community.
Bai Bau (admission 10,000d) Just 2km Fronting the village is Quy Hoa Beach, a
south of Bai Xep (16km from Quy Nhon), lovely stretch of sand and a popular week-
Bai Bau is a beautiful white-sand cres- end hang-out for the city’s expat community.
cent no more than 150m wide, sheltered The hospital grounds are well main-
by rocky headlands, with mountains for tained, complete with numerous busts of
a backdrop. It can get busy on the week- distinguished and historically important
end and during Vietnamese holidays, doctors, both Vietnamese and foreign.
but midweek you’ll likely have the place Depending on their abilities, patients
to yourself. work in the rice fields, in fishing, and in

239

Quy Nhon e# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
AB C D
Nguyen Nga
Centre (650m); D Ð Dong Da
Thap Doi Cham
Towers (1.5km) Ð Ly Ð Phan Chu Trinh
Thuong Kiet
1 1
Quy Nhon £# Ð Phan Van
Ð Bach
Bò#oi Chau o #ì DanÐg Le Van
3 #Ú
12 Thuong Ca Huu
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Ð Nguyen Ð Mai Ð Ð Tran Ð Tran Hung
Tat Thanh Quyen Tang Bat Ho

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Ð Tran Phu
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Ð Nguyen Tu 2
Ð Le Duan Loi â# #ï 11 Ð Xuan 9 #ú
ÐL Lo Nguyen Tat Thanh
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3 An Nguyen
TÐhiTKryan Dan Ð Municipal

Ð NÐgTuryaennDLoacc Ð NgÐuXyueannHDuieeu Beach

Ð Vo Bao NÐgPohcaTmhach
Nhon
D
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#›(1.6km) Ð Pham
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Ð Ngo May 3

Ð An Duong Vuong Quy Nhon So u th e as t C oas t SQiugyhNtsh o n
Bay

4 6 ÿ#7 4

#ÿ Queen's Beach (1.5km)
#ÿ Quy Hoa Beach (1.5km);
4 #ÿ5 Leper Hospital (1.5km);

D
Bai Xep (13km)

ABCD

Quy Nhon û Drinking & Nightlife
Barbara's: The Kiwi
æ Top Sights Connection .................................. (see 4)
1 Municipal Beach .................................... D2 Cafe Xua & Nay .............................. (see 5)

æ Sights þ Shopping
2 Binh Dinh Museum ................................ C2 10 Lon Market..............................................C2
3 Long Khanh Pagoda .............................. B2
ï Information
ÿ Sleeping Barbara's: The Kiwi
4 Anh Vy Hotel .......................................... A4 Connection .................................. (see 4)
5 Hoang Yen Hotel .................................... A4
6 Hotel Au Co – Ben Bo Bien ................... A4 11 Binh Dinh Tourist ...................................C2
7 Seagull Hotel.......................................... A4 ï Transport

ú Eating 12 Vietnam Airlines ..................................... B1
8 C.ine........................................................ D2
9 Nha Hang Lien Thanh............................ D2

repair-oriented businesses. There’s also a Just up from the beach, there’s a dirt path
workshop here where prosthetic limbs and to the hillside tomb of Han Mac Tu, a mysti-
special shoes are crafted, though you’ll prob- cal poet who died in 1940.
ably need permission from the director of
the institution to visit it. If travelling by foot or bicycle, continue
along the road past Queen’s Beach until it

240 You’re welcome to join them on tours of the
descends to the hospital’s entrance gates, countryside by motorbike, hillside hikes or
about 1.5km south of Quy Nhon. for football games and just contribute to
fuel costs.
Long Khanh Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE
4 Sleeping
F It’s hard to miss the 17m-high Buddha
(built in 1972) heralding Quy Nhon’s main When it comes to accommodation, there’s a
pagoda, set back from the road by 143 Ð straightforward choice between the city or
Tran Cao Van. The pagoda was founded in southern beaches. Most backpackers now
1715 by a Chinese merchant, and the monks stay down in Bai Xep beach, but there are
who reside here preside over the religious af- also good options in Quy Nhon itself (where
fairs of the city’s active Buddhist community. the main strip is around Ð An Duong Vuong
Mosaic dragons with manes of broken on the south side of town).
glass lead up to the main building, flanked
by towers sheltering a giant drum (on the
left) and an enormous bell.
Inside, in front of the large copper Thich In the City

Ca Buddha (with its multicoloured neon Anh Vy Hotel HOTEL $
(%056-384 7763; www.anhvyhotel.com; 8 Ð An
halo) is a drawing of multi-armed and multi- Duong Vuong; s/d/tr 200,000/250,000/300,000d;
eyed Chuan De (the Goddess of Mercy); the
numerous arms and eyes symbolise her abil- aiW) This olive-green place is run by a
friendly couple who speak English and offer
ity to touch and see all. excellent travel information, and have bikes

Queen’s Beach BEACH for hire. The rooms are perhaps a tad dated
but are kept clean and have hot-water bath-
So u th e as t C oas t AQcutyivNihtoiens (admission 5000d This stony beach at the foot of rooms; those with sea views cost a little more.
Ganh Rang was once a favourite holiday spot
of Queen Nam Phuong. There’s a cafe and
great views back over Quy Nhon. To get here, Hotel Au Co – Ben Bo Bien HOTEL $
(%056-374 7699; [email protected]; 8 & 24
take Ð An Duong Vuong to the far south end Ð An Duong Vuong; r 190,000-300,000d; aiW)
of Quy Nhon’s beachfront and continue as the
road starts to climb. After it crosses a small Under the same ownership, these two hotels
confusingly share the same name. Number
bridge, pay the entrance fee. It’s accessible by 8 is slightly more atmospheric, with clean
bicycle or xe om (motorbike taxi; 20,000d).
rooms (some with sea views and balco-
nies). Number 24 is pure Vietnamese kitsch.
2 Activities Bikes and motorbikes are available for rent.

Quynhonkids English Club TOUR Mr Thoai, the friendly owner, speaks good

(%0122 820 3228; www.facebook.com/quynhon English.
kids) This friendly bunch of locals loves to
meet up with foreigners to chat in English. Seagull Hotel HOTEL $$
(%384 6377; www.seagullhotel.com.vn; 5 Ð An Du-
ong Vuong; r incl breakfast US$35-50; aiWs)
A pretty good deal, this grand-looking ocean-
front hotel has a three-star wing and slight-
HAM HO NATURE RESERVE ly better four-star accommodation. All
rooms are a little old-fashioned but have
A beautiful nature reserve 55km from generous balconies with panoramic views,
Quy Nhon, Ham Ho (%056-388 0860; and the hotel is located by a beautiful sec-
http://hamhotourist.com.vn; Tay Phu; ad- tion of beach that’s perfect for swimming.
mission 30,000d; h7am-5pm) can easily Breakfast is a buffet affair with limited
be combined with a trip to the Quang Western options.
Trung Museum (p244). Taking up a
jungle-lined 3km stretch of clean, fish- Hoang Yen Hotel HOTEL $$
filled river, the park is best enjoyed by (%056-374 6900; www.hoangyenhotel.com.vn; 5
kayak (two hours 70,000d). The further Ð An Duong Vuong; r 620,000-880,000d incl break-
upriver you travel, the better the swim- fast; aiWs) A 10-storey concrete hotel
ming spots. Good quality accommo- with a privileged location overlooking the
dation (325,000d for a twin room) and beach. Unfortunately the rooms are past
meals are available. their prime, but if you secure a sea view, the
sweeping vistas compensate.
The road to Ham Ho is signposted to
the south of Hwy 19 at Tay Son.

241

GANH DA DIA So u th e as t C oas t EQautyiNngh o&nD rinking

A smaller version of Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, Ganh Da Dia is a spectacular outcrop of
volcanic rock that juts into the ocean south of Quy Nhon. Half the fun is simply getting
there, as the scenery in this coastal region is superb.

Ganh Da Dia is signposted from the small town of Chi Thanh, 68km south of Quy
Nhon. Heading down Hwy 1, take the turning just past the river bridge on the northern
side of town. The route to the coast meanders for 13km through a delightful pastural
landscape of rice paddies and farming villages.

Consisting of hundreds of interlocked columns of volcanic rock, Ganh Da Dia was
created millions of years ago as fluid molten basalt cooled. Some of the best sections
are formed of incredibly regular pentagonal- and hexagonal-sided horizontal rocks. The
Vietnamese call this place ‘the cliff of stone plates’, and it’s regularly used by Buddhist
monks for ceremonies.

You can bathe in the tiny rocky cove next to Ganh Da Dia, but the drop-dead gorgeous
sandy beach on the south side of the bay, a five-minute walk away, is even more inviting.
Overpriced fresh coconuts and snacks are sold by local villagers at the car park.

Continuing south (and avoiding Hwy 1) you can take a lovely coastal road to Tuy Hoa.
Head inland (west) from Ganh Da Dia for 3.5km and then a side (paved) road heads
south through sand dunes, past cacti and agave to the fishing village of An Hai, where a
row of seafood restaurants faces the O Loan estuary and makes an ideal pit stop.

From An Hai, it’s 27km south to Tuy Hoa. The route has a few twists and turns, but
the kilometre waymarks (which indicate the distance to Tuy Hoa) help guide you the
right way.

Southern Beaches phere and five attractive rooms (four have
Around 12km south of town, around Bai Xep sea views) with textile wall hangings and
beach, are some excellent new places. stylish touches. It’s popular with couples
and there’s a great dining area for meals.
oLife’s a Beach GUESTHOUSE $ The Aussie owners run a tight ship and can
(%096 328 9096, 016 2993 3117; http:// organise boat and waterfall trips.
lifesabeachvietnam.com; To 2, Khu Vuc 1, Bai Xep;
dm 210,000d, r 450,000-750,000d, all incl break-
Avani Quy Nhon

fast; aW) S A mecca for travellers, this Resort & Spa BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%056-384 0132; www.avanihotels.com/quyn-
sociable new Western-run place has a hostel hon; Bai Dai Beach; r/ste incl breakfast from
vibe and is the perfect spot to share a few
tales, meet others and kick back on a lovely US$156/188; aiWs) Recently renovated,
this very stylish beachfront resort is set on a
sandy bay. There’s a choice of digs including lovely private beach 14km south of town. It’s
dorms, bungalows and a treehouse, as well
as family-style dinners (150,000d), barbe- well designed, with natural materials and
mod cons marrying beautifully in the spa-
cues and bonfires. cious rooms, which all face the ocean. Staff

Big Tree Backpackers and Bistro HOSTEL $ are sweet, and t’ai chi, yoga, snorkelling and
(%056-384 0000; http://bigtreebackpackers.com; fishing trips are offered.
Bai Xep; dm 200,000d; W) Geared squarely at
backpackers, this beachside place has three 5 Eating & Drinking
dorms (beds have reading lights and pow-
er sockets), including a female-only option. Quy Nhon is one of the best places in Viet-
There’s a great open-air bar and a good vibe nam to indulge in a seafood session. There’s
but real dong-watchers will perhaps find the a (kilometre-long) strip of restaurants on the
bistro’s food prices a tad high. harbourfront road, Ð Xuan Dieu.

Haven GUESTHOUSE $$ oC.ine SEAFOOD $$
(%056-651 2675; 94 Ð Xuan Dieu; dishes 50,000-
(%0982 114 906; www.havenvietnam.com; To 150,000d; h11am-10pm) A very popular sea-
2, Khu Vuc 1, Bai Xep; r incl breakfast 660,000-
900,000d; aW) On the lovely cove of Bai food restaurant with gingham tablecloths
and views over the bay. Feast on delectable
Xep, this tasteful place has a warm atmos-

242
TRANSPORT FROM QUY NHON

DESTINATION AIR BUS CAR/MOTORBIKE TRAIN
Danang (SOFT SEAT)
Hanoi - 125,000-160,000d, 7hr
HCMC 6½hr, 14-17 daily 5½hr, from
from 700,000d, 203,000d, 5 daily
1½hr, daily from 480,000d, around 26hr
from 620,000d, 23hr, 7 daily from 665,000d,
1hr, 3 daily 20hr, 4 daily
260,000- 18hr
380,000d, 16hr, from 393,000d,
10 daily 11hr, 4 daily

dishes including soft-shell crab, hot and sour 88 Information
fish soup and green-mango prawn salad.
Barbara’s: The Kiwi Connection (% 056-389
Nha Hang Lien Thanh SEAFOOD $$ 2921; www.barbaraquynhon.weebly.com; 12 Ð
(104 ÐXuan Dieu; mains 70,000-130,000d; h11am- An Duong Vuong; h7am-9pm; W) Free tourist
9.30pm) This down-to-earth place scores for information including bus and train timetables
very fresh, delicious seafood, including huge and tickets, city and countryside tours, bike
plates of prawns and marinated or barbe- and motorbike hire, and local maps.
cued squid. It’s a very local place and there’s Binh Dinh Tourist (% 056-389 2524; 10 Ð
no English-language menu, so bring your Nguyen Hue; h7.30am-4pm) Government-run
phrasebook. tourist office. Don’t expect much practical help.
So u th e as t C oas t SQhuoy pNphiongn Main Post Office (197 Ð Phan Boi Chau;
Cafe Xua & Nay CAFE h 6.30am-10pm)
Vietcombank (148 Ð Le Loi; h7.30am-3pm
(5 Ð An Duong Vuong; drinks from 20,000d; h7am- Mon-Sat) With ATM.
9pm; W) Beachfront cafe based in a tra-
ditional Vietnamese wooden house (built 88 Getting There & Away
in 1832) that serves authentic coffee, teas,
snacks and juices. It’s a great place to catch AIR
the sea breeze. Vietnam Airlines (% 056-382 5313; www.
vietnamairlines.com; 1 Ð Nguyen Tat Thanh)
Barbara’s: The Kiwi Connection CAFE links Quy Nhon with Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines,
VietJet Air and Jetstar all fly daily to Ho Chi
(12 Ð An Duong Vuong; h7am-10pm; W) This Minh City (HCMC).
was a Quy Nhon institution for years but
times have changed and the owner has There’s a minibus transfer (45,000d) for airline
moved on. The Western food is forgettable passengers between the Vietnam Airlines’ office
but it’s still an option for an evening beer and Phu Cat airport, 32km north of the city.
(15,000d), juice or cup of Earl Grey tea.
BUS
7 Shopping Quy Nhon bus station (% 056-384 6246; Ð
Tay Son) is on the south side of town, with very
oNguyen Nga Centre HANDICRAFTS frequent buses to Quang Ngai (78,000d, four
hours, hourly), Nha Trang and towns in the
(www.nguyennga.org; 91 Ð Dong Da; h7.30am- central highlands including Pleiku (85,000d,
4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) An excellent centre four hours, six daily).
selling crafts created by people with disabil-
ities and special needs. All the items – silk It’s also possible to get a bus all the way to
scarves, bookmarks, hand-painted cards and Pakse (from 400,000d, 20 hours, three per
clothing – are beautifully made. Musical per- week) in Laos, crossing the border at Bo Y.
formances are also given by blind students
using traditional Vietnamese instruments. At the time of research, no open-tour buses
were stopping at Quy Nhon.

Lon Market MARKET TRAIN
The nearest mainline station is Dieu Tri, 10km
(Cho Lon, Ð Tang Bat Ho; h6am-4pm) Bustling west of the city. Only very slow local trains stop
central market where street-sellers spill over at Quy Nhon train station (% 056-382 2036; Ð
into the surrounding roads. Great for photo Le Hong Phong) which is at the end of a spur off
opportunities. the main north–south track.

Destinations include Quang Ngai (114,000d, 243So u th e as t C oas t GC hetatBianng ACrhoaumnAdrea
three hours) and all major towns on the main different, although all were built around
north–south line. the turn of the 12th century. The smaller,
barrel-roofed tower has the most intricate
88 Getting Around carvings, although there’s still a wonderfully
toothy face looking down on it from the wall
From central Quy Nhon to Dieu Tri station costs of the largest tower. A large Buddhist pagoda
150,000d in a taxi or about 70,000d on a xe om. sits on the side of the hill under the lowest of
the towers. There are great views of the sur-
Local T9 buses trundle down the coast be- rounding countryside from the top of the hill.
tween Quy Nhon (catch them on Ð An Duong
Vuong) and the beach at Bai Xep (8000d, 45 The towers are easily reached by taking Ð
minutes, hourly 5am to 5pm). A taxi to Bai Xep is Tran Hung Dao out of Quy Nhon for about
around 175,000d. 30 minutes, when you’ll see the towers in
the distance to the right of the road. After
Cha Ban Cham Area the traffic lights joining the main highway,
cross the bridge and turn right. Take the
The former Cham capital of Cha Ban (also left turn heading up the hill to reach the
known as Vijay and Quy Nhon) was locat- entrance.
ed 26km north of Quy Nhon and 5km from
Binh Dinh. While of archaeological impor- Duong Long Cham Towers
tance, there’s very little to see for the casual
visitor. However, there are several interest- These towers (Binh Hoa, Tay Son district; admis-
ing Cham structures dotted around the area. sion free; h7-11am & 1.30-4.30pm) are hard to
find, sitting in the countryside about 50km
Banh It Cham Towers northwest of Quy Nhon. Dating from the
late 12th century, the largest of the three
The most impressive of the area’s Cham brick towers (24m high) is embellished with
sites, this group of four towers (Phuoc Hiep, granite ornamentation representing naga (a
Tuy Phuoc district; admission free; h7-11am & 1.30- mythical serpent-being with divine powers)
4.30pm) sits atop a hill 20km to the north of and elephants (Duong Long means ‘Towers
Quy Nhon and is clearly visible from Hwy 1. of Ivory’). Over the doors are bas-reliefs of
The architecture of each tower is distinctly women, dancers, monsters and various

THE LOST CITY OF CHAMPA

Cha Ban, which served as the capital of Champa from the year 1000 (after the loss of
Indrapura/Dong Duong) until 1471, was attacked and plundered repeatedly by the Viet-
namese, Khmers and Chinese.

In 1044, the Vietnamese prince Phat Ma occupied the city and carried off a great deal
of booty, along with the Cham king’s wives, harem, female dancers, musicians and sing-
ers. Cha Ban was under the control of Jayavarman VII and the Khmer empire from 1190
to 1220. In 1377, the Vietnamese were defeated and their king was killed in an attempt to
capture Cha Ban. The Vietnamese emperor Le Thanh Ton breached the eastern gate of
the city in 1471 and captured the Cham king and 50 members of the royal family. During
this, the last great battle fought by the Cham, 60,000 Cham were killed and 30,000
more were taken prisoner by the Vietnamese.

During the Tay Son Rebellion, Cha Ban served as the capital of central Vietnam, and
was ruled by the eldest of the three Tay Son brothers. It was attacked in 1793 by the forc-
es of Nguyen Anh (later Emperor Gia Long), but the assault failed. In 1799, they laid siege
to the city again, under the command of General Vu Tinh, capturing it at last.

The Tay Son rebels soon reoccupied the port of Thi Nai (modern-day Quy Nhon)
and then laid siege to Cha Ban themselves. The siege continued for over a year, and by
June 1801, Vu Tinh’s provisions were gone. Food was in short supply; all the horses and
elephants had long since been eaten. Refusing to consider the ignominy of surrender,
Vu Tinh had an octagonal wooden tower constructed. He filled it with gunpowder and,
arrayed in his ceremonial robes, went inside and blew himself up. Upon hearing the news
of the death of his dedicated general, Nguyen Anh wept.

244 journey, especially for cyclists brave enough
animals. The corners of the structure are to tackle Hwy 1, but most visitors are just
formed by enormous dragon heads. passing through.
It is best to visit the towers with a driver
or on a tour, as the site is reached by a suc- 1 Sights
cession of pretty country lanes through rice
paddies and over rickety bridges. The few sights the town has are all on hill-
tops visible from the main highway.
Quang Trung Museum
Nhan Cham Tower TEMPLE
Nguyen Hue, the second-oldest of the three
brothers who led the Tay Son Rebellion, (off Ð Le Trung Kien) To the south of town, the
crowned himself Emperor Quang Trung in Nhan Cham Tower is an impressive sight,
1788. In 1789, Quang Trung led the campaign particularly when illuminated at night. The
that overwhelmingly defeated a Chinese in- climb up to the tower takes you through a
vasion of 200,000 troops near Hanoi. This small botanic garden and you’ll be rewarded
epic battle is still celebrated as one of the with great views from the hilltop.
greatest triumphs in Vietnamese history.
War Memorial MEMORIAL
During his reign, Quang Trung was some-
thing of a social reformer. He encouraged (off Ð Le Trung Kien) This striking white war
land reform, revised the system of taxation, memorial in the south of town has been de-
improved the army and emphasised educa- signed with overlapping sails that are vague-
tion, opening many schools and encourag- ly reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House.
ing the development of Vietnamese poetry
and literature. He died in 1792 at the ageSo u th e as t C oas t ST uigyhHtos a4 Sleeping & Eating
of 40. Communist literature portrays him
as the leader of a peasant revolution whose There are plenty of nondescript mini-hotels,
progressive policies were crushed by the re- and a glut of humble restaurants and street
actionary Nguyen dynasty, which came to vendors along the main highway and Ð Tran
power in 1802 and was overthrown by Ho Hung Dao.
Chi Minh in 1945.
The best dining is to be had on the beach,
The Quang Trung Museum (Phu Phong, where a stretch of seafood shacks and bia
Tay Son district; admission 10,000d; h8-11.30am hoi (draught beer) joints serve fresh sea-
& 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) is built on the site of the food. Many charge by the kilogram, so be
brothers’ house and encloses the original sure to agree on prices to avoid an expen-
well and an ancient tamarind tree said to sive surprise.
have been planted by the brothers. Displays
include various statues, costumes, docu- Nhiet Doi Hotel HOTEL $
ments and artefacts from the 18th century, (%057-382 2424; www.nhietdoihotel.com; 216 Ð
most of them labelled in English. Especially Nguyen Hue; r 200,000-350,000d; aW) Modern
notable are the elephant-skin battle drums mini-hotel where the rooms have attractive
and gongs from the Bahnar tribe. The muse- furnishings; all but the cheapest are quite
um is also known for its demonstrations of spacious. Staff speak little English but will
vo binh dinh, a traditional martial art that help with motorbike rentals. Tasty meals
is performed with a bamboo stick. (30,000d to 50,000d) are available.

The museum is about 50km from Quy Cendeluxe Hotel HOTEL $$
Nhon. Take Hwy 19 west for 40km towards (%057-381 8818; www.cendeluxehotel.com; Ð Hai
Pleiku. The museum is about 5km north of Duong; r/ste from US$68/135; aiWs) This
the highway (the turn-off is signposted) in towering landmark dominates the city’s sky-
Phu Phong, Tay Son district. line and claims most of the business trade.
It’s the most luxurious address in town, how-
Tuy Hoa ever it is quite a hike from the beach. Rooms
are very well equipped and spacious, and the
% 057 / POP 212,000 pool area, spa and gym are all impressive.
Dining options could be improved, though.
Steadily being transformed into a vast,
sprawling new city, Tuy Hoa is a somewhat Bob’s Cafe American PIZZA $$
soulless place characterised by the requisite (%021 1975 9159; 43 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals
vast plaza and multi-laned boulevards. It’s a from 65,000-160,000d; h3-9pm Tue-Sun; aW)
possible overnight stop to break up a longer Just inland from the beach on a quiet sub-
urban street, Bob’s is an unexpected find in

deeply provincial Tuy Hoa. It’s an intimate 245So u th e as t C oas t TGuetytHionga tToheNrhea&TArwanayg
little place serving up pizza (with toppings
including pepperoni and seafood), chicken Whale Island
wings and burgers. Check out the Crow’s
Nest bar upstairs for a beer. About a kilometre south of Dai Lanh, a vast
sand-dune causeway connects the mainland
88 Getting There & Away to the Hon Gom peninsula, which is almost
30km in length.
AIR
Vietnam Airlines (% 057-382 6508; www. Boats for Whale Island leave from Hom
vietnamairlines.com; 353 Ð Tran Hung Dao) has Gom’s main village, Dam Mon, set on a shel-
five flights weekly to Hanoi (from 799,000d) tered bay. Whale Island is a tiny speck on the
while Jetstar operates daily flights to HCMC map and home to the romantic and seclud-
(from 360,000d). The airport, sometimes ed Whale Island Resort (%058-384 0501;
called Dong Tac, is 8km south of town. www.whaleislandresort.com; s/d incl breakfast from
US$33/45; W). It’s a fine place for some bare-
BUS foot living, with snorkelling, kayaking and
From Tuy Hoa, there are very regular buses to windsurfing, and a pretty beachside setting.
Quy Nhon (48,000d, two hours) and Nha Trang It has rustic bamboo and timber (fan-cooled)
(66,000d, three hours). bungalows; and compulsory meals (US$28
per person per day) are good if pricey. Bus-
TRAIN boat transfers from Nha Trang cost US$20.
Tuy Hoa train station (% 057-382 3672; Ð
Le Trung Kien) is on the road parallel to the Rainbow Divers (p253) has a permanent
highway, north of the main street. Destinations base on the island; two dives cost US$80.
include Danang (275,000d, 7½ hours) and Nha The scuba season is mid-January to mid-
Trang (75,000d, two hours). October. Unfortunately whale sharks and
whales (which used to be regular visitors)
have not been sighted for some years.

Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang Doc Let Beach

% 058 Stretching for 18km, the chalk-white sands
and shallow turquoise waters of Doc Let
The coastal drive between Tuy Hoa and Nha rank among Vietnam’s best beaches.
Trang on Hwy 1 provides tantalising glimps-
es of a number of remote and beautiful This giant bay can be divided into three
spots, while others are hidden away in the sections. The northern part is where most
jungle along promontories or on secluded is- of the tourism action is, with a cluster of
lands. Leave behind the guidebook for a day beachfront hotels and cheaper guesthouses
or two and go exploring. Money-changing inland. Looming over the central section is
facilities and ATMs are thin on the ground the giant Hyundai shipyard and port, an im-
here, so plan ahead in Nha Trang, Tuy Hoa portant local employer but a real blight on
or Quy Nhon. the landscape. The isolated southern section
is backed by a wooded promontory and is
Dai Lanh Beach the place to really get away from it all.

Crescent-shaped Dai Lanh Beach has a split There’s little or no public transport, but
personality: a scruffy fishing village occupies with a rented bike it’s easy to find your own
the northern end, but yields to an attractive piece of beachside paradise for the day.
beach shaded by casuarina trees. The roar
of traffic from Hwy 1 does blight the setting, 4 Sleeping
but when a new tunnel currently under
construction is finished (scheduled for late Hoang Khang Hotel HOTEL $
2016), peace should return to Dai Lanh. (%058-367 2268; [email protected];
Dong Cat Village; r 300,000-400,000d; aW) A
Accommodation options are grouped to- short stroll from the beach, this new white
gether in the fishing village. Binh Lieu (%058- four-storey hotel has clean, well-presented
394 9138; Hwy 1; r 220,000-350,000d; aW) is and good-value rooms and an English-
the best of the mini-hotels with smart, well- speaking manager. There’s a restaurant on-
equipped rooms. Fresh seafood features site and full-board packages are available.
prominently at the beachside restaurants.
Doc Let Resort HOTEL $
Dai Lanh is 40km south of Tuy Hoa and (%058-384 9152; bungalows incl breakfast
83km north of Nha Trang on Hwy 1. 375,000-475,000d; aW) Pluses here are the

246

VUNG RO BAY

A spectacular natural harbour ringed by forested peaks, Vung Ro Bay is a remote, wildy
beautiful lagoon-like expanse of turquoise water 25km south of Tuy Hoa. It’s celebrated
as Vietnam’s most easterly point on the mainland.

A crooked finger of land protects the bay from the worst South China Sea storms, al-
lowing a floating village and fish farms to flourish in its sheltered waters. On the northeast
side of Vung Ro, the coastal road passes an exquisite undeveloped sandy cove, Bai Mon,
the perfect spot for a swim. From this beach a steep path leads up to a 19th-century light-
house, built by the French, from where there are oceanic vistas of the Vung Ro coastline.

This part of Vietnam hit the headlines back in February 1965 when a US helicopter
detected the movement of a North Vietnamese supply ship in the area. Vung Ro was part
of the alternative Ho Chi Minh Sea Trail and was being used to smuggle arms into South
Vietnam for Viet Cong forces. The discovery of a sea supply route from north to south con-
firmed US suspicions and was used as justification to ramp up US involvement in the war.

Today the isolation and raw beauty of the Vung Ro coast is under threat by a plan for
a giant oil refinery and billion-dollar resort complex and marina, funded by the US-based
Rose Rock Group. This development project was proposed years ago but no construction
work had started by late 2015. Get here quick.

So u th e as t C oas t TGuetytHionga tToheNrhea&TArwanayg stunning beachfront setting, palm-shaded Ninh Hoa where there’s a big sign for Hyundai
grounds and decent restaurant, which Vinashin (shipyard). Continue 10km past photo-
serves up good local dishes at reasonable genic salt fields, looking out for the signs to the
prices. Minuses are the dated, if spacious, resorts. Make a left turn through Doc Let village
bungalows and lack of atmosphere. All in all and then a right to the beach. Most of the hotels
it’s fair value for the fine setting. and resorts also offer some sort of transfer
service for a fee.
oJungle Beach BUNGALOW $$
(%091 342 9144; www.junglebeachvietnam.com; There’s a separate, direct (paved) road to Jun-
r per person incl all meals from 500,000d; W) Of- gle Beach via the shipyard from the same Hwy 1
turn-off (look out for the signs to ‘wild beach’).

fering a castaway vibe, this Canadian-owned Ninh Van Bay
beachside place sits pretty on an idyllic
stretch of white sand. Rattan, bamboo and Welcome to an alternate reality populat-
thatch huts are beach-bum basic but ade- ed by European royalty, film stars and the
quate. Meals are eaten family-style, so there’s otherwise rich and secretive. Sadly for the
a sociable ambience. It is very isolated (but average punter, this place doesn’t exist. Ninh
that’s entirely the point) at the end of lonely Van Bay is blessed with a sprinkling of ex-
road, 7km south of the shipyard. quisite sandy cove beaches that a couple of
uber-luxurious hotels have set up camp on.
oSome Days of Silence BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay and An Lam
(%058-367 0952; www.somedaysresort.com; Ninh Van Bay Villas are not accessible by
r US$110-120, bungalows US$170-180, all incl road; you arrive by boat from private docks
breakfast; aiWs) Stunning, artistically 15km north of Nha Trang.
designed place that feels more of an in-the-
know retreat than a mere hotel. Elegant oSix Senses Ninh Van Bay RESORT $$$
bungalows and rooms are lovingly decorat- (%058-3524 268; www.sixsenses.com; villas
ed with art and feature four-poster beds and US$690-1240; naiWs) Occupying a se-
bathrooms with pebble detailing. There’s a cluded cove abutting a dense jungle-covered
sublime tropical garden, good spa, and ser- peninsula, this resort comprises of drop-
vice is great. The pagoda-style restaurant dead-gorgeous, traditionally inspired villas,
and terrace make a great setting for healthy, each with its own swimming pool. As you
creative meals (US$12 each). would expect for the price, the detail is su-

88 Getting There & Away perb and the setting is simply magical. Facil-
ities include a wonderful Six Senses Spa and
The turn-off for Doc Let is signposted just south restaurants featuring Western and Asian
of a toll-road section on Hwy 1, around 4km past cuisine.

247

An Lam Ninh Van Bay Villas RESORT $$$ and it’s possible to find a stretch of sand to
(%058-362 4777; www.anlamnvb.com; aiWs) yourself.
All guests approach this enclave of luxury in a
speed boat, skimming across a turquoise bay The best beach weather is generally be-
fringed by forested hills. And on arrival you fore 1pm, as the afternoon sea breezes can
can quickly settle in to a life of sybaritic trop- whip up the sand.
ical living: thatched villas with private plunge
pools, personal butler service, complimenta- During heavy rains, run-off from the riv-
ry yoga classes, kayaking and hiking. ers at each end of the beach flows into the
bay, gradually turning it a murky brown.
Nha Trang Most of the year, however, the sea is just like So u th e as t C oas t NS ihgahTtsrang
it appears in the brochures.
% 058 / POP 386,000
oPo Nagar Cham Towers BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Loud and proud (say it!), the high-rise,
high-energy beach resort of Nha Trang en- (Thap Ba, Lady of the City; Map p248; admission
joys a stunning setting: ringed by a necklace 22,000d, guide 50,000d; h6am-6pm) Built
of hills, with a crescent beach, the city’s tur- between the 7th and 12th centuries, these
quoise bay dotted with tropical islands. four Cham towers are still actively used for
worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese
The shoreline has been given a huge Buddhists. Originally the complex had seven
makeover in recent years, with parks and or eight towers, but only four towers remain,
sculpture gardens spread along the impres- of which the 28m-high North Tower (Thap
sive promenade, while the streets inland Chinh), which dates from AD 817, with its
reveal some quirky boutiques and a cosmo- terraced pyramidal roof, vaulted interior ma-
politan array of dining options. sonry and vestibule, is the most magnificent.

As the restaurants wind down, the night- The towers stand on a granite knoll 2km
life cranks up – Nha Trang is a party town at north of central Nha Trang, on the banks of
heart, like any self-respecting resort should the Cai River.
be. Forget the curfews of the capital; people
play late in this town. It’s thought this site was first used for
worship as early as the 2nd century AD. The
If cocktails and shooters aren’t your original wooden structure was razed to the
flavour, there are some more sedate activ- ground by attacking Javanese in AD 774, but
ities on offer. Try an old-school spa treat- was replaced by a stone-and-brick temple
ment with a visit to a mud bath or explore (the first of its kind) in 784.
centuries-old Cham towers still standing in
the centre of town. The towers serve as the Holy See, hon-
ouring Yang Ino Po Nagar, the goddess of
This part of the country has its very own the Dua (Liu) clan, which ruled over the
microclimate and the rains tend to come southern part of the Cham kingdom. There
from October until December, a time best are inscribed stone slabs scattered through-
avoided if you are into lazing on the beach out the complex, most of which relate to
or diving in the tropical waters. history or religion and provide insight into
the spiritual life and social structure of the
1 Sights Cham.

There are several superb black-and-white All of the temples face east, as did the
photographic galleries in Nha Trang. original entrance to the complex, which is to
the right as you ascend the hillock. In cen-
oNha Trang Beach BEACH turies past, worshippers passed through the
pillared meditation hall, 10 pillars of which
(Map p250) Forming a magnificent sweep- can still be seen, before proceeding up the
ing arc, Nha Trang’s 6km-long golden-sand steep staircase to the towers.
beach is the city’s trump card. Various
sections are roped off and designated for In 918, King Indravarman III placed a
swimmers (where you won’t be bothered gold mukha-linga (carved phallus with a
by jetskis or boats). The turquoise water is human face painted on it) in the North Tow-
fabulously inviting, and the promenade a er, but it was taken by Khmer raiders. This
delight to stroll. pattern of statues being destroyed or sto-
Two popular lounging spots are the Sail- len and then replaced continued until 965,
ing Club and Louisiane Brewhouse. If you when King Jaya Indravarman IV replaced
head south of here, the beach gets quieter the gold mukha-linga with the stone figure,
Uma (shakti, or female consort of Shiva),
which remains to this day.

248

Nha Trang e# 0 1 km Nha Trang
0 0.5 miles
AB
DNational æ Top Sights
D Hon Rua 1 Po Nagar Cham Towers ......................A2
(Tortoise
Highway 1 (8km); Ð Pham Van DongIsland); (12km); æ Sights
Doc Let Beach Hon Lao 2 Buddha .................................................A2
(60km) 3 Hon Chong Promontory......................B2
441 1 4 Long Son Pagoda ................................A3
5 National Oceanographic Museum .....B5
Ð 2 Thang 4 (Monkey Island)
(18km) Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
66#Ø7 6 Sailing Center Vietnam .......................A3
7 Thap Ba Hot Spring Center ................A2
44Cai
So(nHMonouSonnta)in ÿ Sleeping
8 Evason Ana Mandara Resort &
44I Resort (660m) Spa ..................................................... B4
Ù#BHeoanchChong
ú Eating
(300m) R Po Nagar æ#3 Banh Xeo stand .......................... (see 12)
D Cham Hon Do
D River Towers (Red Island) 2

1 #Ú ú# Tran Phu
Bridge
2 Xom Bong 12
Ha Ra Bridge
6666á#2
444Bridge 10Ð Tran Phu
/·1 ú#9 ú#
444#Ú4
#£Nha Trang 9 Dam Market .........................................A2
Ù# 10 Lac Canh Restaurant...........................A2
Nha BTeraanchg 11 Lang Nuong Phu Dong Hai San ..........B4
4443 SOUTH 3 12 Thap Ba ................................................A2
CHINA û Drinking & Nightlife
6666#
SEA Hon Chong Cafe........................... (see 3)
Ð Tran Phu 444See Central Nha
Trang Map (p250)
So u th e as t C oas t SNihgahTtsrang The Central Tower (Thap Nam) was built
444ú#
11
8
#ÿ partly of recycled bricks in the 12th century
44444 on the site of a structure dating from the 7th
Tran Hung 4 century. It is less finely constructed than the
Dao Statue other towers and has little ornamentation;
#á the pyramidal roof lacks terracing or pilas-
Hon Tre (Bamboo Island) (2km);
Hon Mun (8km); Hon Yen
4444D(Bird's-Nest Island) (18km)
CAU DA 5 ters, although the interior altars were once
VILLAGE â# covered with silver. There is a linga inside
Nha Trang Port the main chamber.
Cau#
5 (1M3ikamR1B0)e;as0BtohEargti(D1gNkahMmiau()2Td; 0raknmDgo)n;CghBuo Rt(iNMveuroiuCnhtauitn)R Da Dock 5 The South Tower (Mieu Dong Nam), at
one time dedicated to Sandhaka (Shiva), still
Cam Ranh #– (28km); shelters a linga, while the richly ornamented
Hwy 1 (31km) Northwest Tower (Thap Tay Bac) was origi-
\# nally dedicated to Ganesh. To the rear of the
A B complex is a less impressive museum with a
few examples of Cham stonework.
To get here from central Nha Trang, take
Above the entrance to the North Tower, Ð Quang Trung (which becomes Ð 2 Thang
two musicians, one of whose feet is on the 4) north across the Ha Ra and Xom Bong
head of the bull Nandin, flank a dancing Bridges. Po Nagar can also be reached via the
four-armed Shiva. The sandstone doorposts Tran Phu Bridge along the beachfront road.
are covered with inscriptions, as are parts
of the walls of the vestibule. A gong and a This site has a continuing religious sig-
drum stand under the pyramid-shaped ceil- nificance, so be sure to remove your shoes
ing of the antechamber. In the 28m-high before entering.

pyramidal main chamber, there is a black- Long Son Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE
stone statue of the goddess Uma with 10
arms, two of which are hidden under her (Map p248; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5.30pm) F
vest; she is seated and leaning back against This striking pagoda was founded in the late
a monstrous beast. 19th century. The entrance and roofs are
decorated with mosaic dragons construct-
ed of glass and ceramic tile while the main