(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

SHOPPING  199


to pay to taste the wine,
which may be accompanied
by cheese and salami, and you
usually need to book ahead.

Gastronomy
The main problem with buying
food in Liguria is that it is hard
to know where to start, and
when to stop. Much of what
you see is best eaten on the
spot. This applies to the
wonderful snacks that the
Ligurians love. Baked or fried
snacks come in all shapes and
Dried beans sold by the sackful at a Ligurian market sizes: from the famous focaccia,
to cuculli (fritters) and torta
the coast, but the best olives Note that the price of a good- sardenaira, a sort of pizza topped
grow along the Riviera di quality olive oil (ideally extra with tomatoes and anchovies
Ponente, none more so than the virgin) bought from a press- (popular in San Remo).
small black olives of Taggia, house is higher than that of an Bakeries and pasticcerie
which yield a golden olive oil everyday oil from a super- (pastry shops) sell all
with green tints and an almondy, market or grocer’s shop, manner of wonderful
lightly fruity aroma. In the area but it will definitely be cakes and biscuits, too.
between Taggia and Albenga worth taking home. In terms of foods to
you can buy olive oil direct take home, you’d do
from the producers: look for Wine better to concentrate
signs saying frantoio, which on the local cured
means presshouse. Liguria is not a major meats and preserved
Most Ligurian olive oil wine producer but still vegetables, such as
carries the quality mark of has some respected sundried tomatoes,
Denomi nazione d’Origine wines, both whites and local artichoke paste
Protetta (DOP), which guarantees reds (see p187). It is and dried porcini
the prove nance of the olives, fun to buy wine direct mushrooms. Ancho-
and the cold-pressing methods from the producers. Olio Carli, a fine olive vies in olive oil are
used in the manufacture. Sometimes you have oil from Imperia another good buy.
DIRECTORY
Antiques Glass and Lace Local Produce Cascina dei Peri (wine
and oil)
Antiqua & Tuttantico E. Gandolfi (lace) Antico Frantoio Castelnuovo Magra
Genoa Rapallo Sommariva (oil) Via Montefrancio 71.
Fiera Internazionale. Piazza Cavour 1. Albenga Tel 0187 674 085.
Tel 010 539 11. Tel 0185 50 234. Via Mameli 7. Enoteca Sciacchetrà
Tel 0182 559 222.
∑ fiera.ge.it Soffieria Bormioli (wine)
(glass) Bottega del Vernazza Via Roma 50.
Ceramics Altare Formaggio (cheese Tel 0187 821 210.
Ceramiche Fenice Via Paleologo 16. & salami) Panificio Canale
Chiavari
Tel 019 58 254.
Albissola Marina Via Martiri della (bakery)
Portofino
Via Repetio 22. Plants Liberazione 208. Via Roma 30.
Tel 019 481 668. Tel 0185 314 225. Tel 0185 269 248.
Stern & Dellerba
Studio d’Arte Esedra (cacti & succulents) Bottega della Strega A’Pestun’à (bakery)
Dolceacqua San Remo (deli) Genoa
Via Castello 11. Via Privata delle Rose 7. Triora Via Boccadasse 9.
Corso Italia 48.
Tel 0184 200 969. Tel 0184 661 290. Tel 0184 94 278. Tel 010 377 75 75.
Studio Ernan Design Vivai Olcese (plants) Bruciamonti (deli) Revello Dolce e
Salato (bakery)
Albisola Superiore Genova Genoa Camogli
Corso Mazzini 7. Via Borghero 6. Via Roma 81. Via Garibaldi 183.
Tel 019 489 916. Tel 010 380 290. Tel 010 562 515. Tel 0185 770 777.

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200  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

For those who love sports associated with the bikers, though the terrain makes any of
sea, there is more than 300 km (186 miles) of these activities a relatively energetic option.
coastline which provides wonderful The region’s parks and nature reserves all
opportunities for windsurfing, diving and have hiking trails, while the peaks of the
sailing (Liguria has more than 60 sailing Ligurian Alps and the Apennines provide
clubs). Swimming is popular too, though some scope for skiing and other winter
many beaches are pebbly. There is also plenty sports. For those who take a more leisurely
to do away from the coast. In the hills of the approach, there is always golf: there are golf
interior there are numerous trails that are courses in San Remo, Rapallo, Lerici, Garlenda
used by hikers, horse riders and mountain (near Albenga) and Arenzano (near Genoa).

If you do not have a boat, there diving. The most popular
are many brokerage agencies spots include the headland of
which offer yachts and motor- Portofino, Ventimiglia, Alassio
driven boats for hire. and the Cinque Terre marine
A good source of general park (with diving centres in
information is the Pagine Azzurre Riomaggiore and Monterosso).
(published annually in English), The latter, created in 1997, has
which includes official charts some rare white and black
and plans of every harbour. corals, and is also home to many
of the species of dolphin and
whale that inhabit the Ligurian
Canoeing Sea. Note that diving numbers
Canoes are a common sight are strictly controlled here, so
along the coast. Inland, there it is worth booking ahead.
are some opportunities for There are around 60 dive
downhill canoeing during the centres in Liguria: their
winter and the spring thaw, addresses are shown on
when water is abundant in the regional tourist board
The breezy coastline, a boon for the local rivers. websites (see Directory).
enthusiastic windsurfers
Information Windsurfing Rock Climbing
For those interested in some Waves and year-round Stony cliffs facing the sea enable
serious sport, the best source winds combine to make rock climbers to enjoy the sport
of information is CONI, the certain stretches of the all year round. The most popular
Ligurian sports committee. The Riviera di Ponente
Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) popular with wind-
is a good source for anyone surfers, though not
venturing into the mountains, everyone finds the
whether it is to hike, ski or relatively sheltered
rock-climb. conditions exciting.
Arma di Taggia,
around Porto
Sailing Maurizio, Capo
Liguria has a most beautiful Mimosa (near Andora)
coastline and is a great place and Levanto are
to go sailing. From La Spezia among the best
to Ventimiglia, the coast has places to windsurf.
countless beaches and inlets, You can, however,
some accessible only by boat. hire boards in most
While it is not difficult to of the large resorts
navigate along this coast, it is along the coast.
important not to underestimate
the dangers of a changing
sea, even in the summer. Also, Diving
the volume of swimmers and A few areas along
bathers in popular destinations the coast of Liguria
can be problematic in high provide some great
season. opportunities for Exploring the fascinating sea bed along the coast




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES  201


Vallée des Merveilles and on
the slopes of Monte Bego.

Horse Riding
Horse riding is popular in
Liguria, and there are plenty of
stables offering treks lasting a
day or more. You can experience
some great day treks in the
Cinque Terre. Agriturismo farms
may also offer treks.
Players on one of Liguria’s three 18-hole golf courses
Skiing
sites are found in the area north of La Spezia. At 440 km The Alps and the Apennines
of Le Manie near Finale Ligure (275 miles), it is Italy’s longest provide some opportunities
(see p148), and nearby at Capo continuous walk. The terrain is for skiing, though most resorts
di Noli. Other popular sites not difficult and the route is are small. Monte Saccarello
include the cliffs at Muzzerone, never isolated, as it passes (near Móneri di Triora) and
near Portovenere, and through many villages. Colizzano (north of Toirano)
Castelbianco (Albenga). The Cinque Terre is another are both good for downhill
walkers ‘paradise and has several skiing. Cross-country skiing is
trails. Most famous of these is possible from Santo Stefano
Mountain Biking the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Path), d’Aveto, in the Apennines.
The area around Finale Ligure a relatively easy route which
is one of the most popular areas becomes busy in summer,
for mountain biking, with paths when it can be hard to find a
penetrating the Mediterranean room for the night without
maquis. Capo di Noli is an booking ahead. A quieter
excellent place for cyclists of all option is the Sentiero Crinale,
abilities to explore. which runs along the clifftop.
There are also spectacular but
steep trails leading to the
Hiking sanctuaries scattered around
The longest signposted route this area.
in the region is the Alta Via dei Another good area in which
Monti Liguri, which travels the to walk in is the French part
full length of the Ligurian hinter- of the Val Roja, north of Finale Ligure offers a varied and
land, from outside Ventimiglia to Ventimiglia: particularly in the challenging landscape for mountain bikers
DIRECTORY
Information Weather and Rock Climbing Horse Riding
Shipping Reports
Club Alpino Italiano ∑ eurometeo.com Information Centro Turismo
(CAI) ∑ thecrag.com Equestre 5 Terre
∑ cai.it Diving Rock Store Campiglia
Tel 0187 758 114.
CONI Finalborgo
∑ coni.it 5 Terre Diving Tel 019 690 208. Monte Beigua Riding
Riomaggiore Alpicella (Varazze)
Sailing Tel 0187 920 011. Mountain Biking Tel 010 553 1878.
Italian Sailing Punta Mesco Blu Bike Skiing
Federation (FIV) Levanto Finale Ligure Information
Genoa ∑ divingcenter.net Tel 019 680 564. ∑ liguriasci.it
Tel 010 513 975. ∑ puntamesco diving. ∑ fisiliguria.org
∑ federvela.it com Hiking
Italian Yacht Club San Fruttuoso Alta Via Golf
(YCI) Diving Centre ∑ altaviadeimonti Information
∑ yachtclubitalia.it Santa Margherita liguri.it ∑ federgolf.it
Pagine Azzurre Ligure Information
∑ pagineazzurre.com Tel 0185 280 862. ∑ parks.it





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202  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT

Liguria offers visitors a wide range of find the best bar on the seafront and watch
entertainment. There are cinemas and the atres the world go by.
(the Teatro Carlo Felice in Genoa is one of Attending one of the region’s numerous
Italy’s most famous historic theatres), casinos, festivals can sometimes provide the highlight
discos, nightclubs, wine bars and all sorts of of a trip to Liguria. In addition to the many
venues hosting live music. The vast majority regattas and food festivals, there are various
of such entertainment is, inevitably, focused events focused around music, both modern
along the coast, and the choice is greatest and classical. The Festival della Canzone
during the summer. Be warned that clubs Italiana, held in San Remo in February (see
and bars in the resorts tend to be very p35), is one of the most important dates in
expensive. For a cheaper night out, simply the Italian pop music calendar.


restaurant-cum-disco, which
can be difficult to get into
unless you book a table.

Bars and Cafés
Many italians spend half their
lives in bars and cafés, and
Ligurians are no exception. The
beauty of these places is that
many are open in the evening,
sometimes even late into the
night in the resorts, and serve
snacks as well as coffee and
alcohol.
Typical of the riviera are
the fabulous historic cafés,
in business since the region’s
The casino in San Remo, one of Liguria’s best-known nightspots heyday in the 19th century.
These usually have wonderful
Theatres Discos and Clubs
decor and a great atmosphere.
Every town of any size in There is a trend nowadays Caffè Klainguti in Genoa is a
Liguria has its own theatre, and for discos and clubs to offer fine example. Founded in 1828,
some of the cities have several. far more than just a chance it was loved by the composer
Classical concerts, operas and to dance and have a drink. Giuseppe Verdi, and serves
ballet tend to be held in their Some of Liguria’s major delicious coffee and pastries. In
own dedicated theatre, though dance venues have been Santa Margherita Ligure, the Art
San Remo’s famous Casino turned into multi-functional Nouveau decor is one of the big
hosts a wide range of enter- venues where, in addition to attractions of the Caffè
tainment, from touring ballet dance floors and bars, there Colombo. In Chiavari, Defilla is
concerts to live music. are restaurants, shops, five-a- well worth seeking out. The
The main theatrical and side football pitches and latter, with mirrors, paintings
classical music seasons tend to perhaps even a private beach. and stucco galore, becomes a
run in the winter, but Liguria is Such a description would fit piano bar at night. In San Remo,
not a cultural desert during the Estoril Moonlight, one of the try the Bar delle Rose at the
summer. Outdoor performances top clubs in Genoa. Royal Hotel, and in Alassio the
are particularly common at San Remo has some of the Giacomel, which serves
this time of year. best nightlife along the coast, fantastic ice cream.
In Genoa, for example, films and Santa Margherita is Increasingly, Italians
are shown in various parks buzzing, too (it is are in the habit of
around the city, and the ballet just a short meeting up
festival in the parks in nearby drive for with friends at
Nervi is hugely popular. The revellers from a wine bar,
summer theatre season held Genoa). Here, whether it’s
in the pretty town square at the Carillon is before dinner
Borgio Verezzi is also another a gorgeous or after the
permanent fixture. but trendy The Teatro Chiabrera at Savona theatre. Wine




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ENTER T AINMENT  203


bars offer a good choice
of wine, as well light snacks. The Genoa Derby
In Genoa, one name that Local football fans love to attend matches played
emerges above the rest is by the two city teams, Genova and Sampdoria,
I Tre Merli, attractively located a lively meeting known as the “Derby della Lanterna”.
in the Palazzina Millo in the Genova, set up by a group of
Porto Antico. Also in Genoa Sampdoria Englishmen in 1893, is the
are Monumento, with a bar emblem oldest football team in Italy, while
and terrace overlooking the Sampdoria was formed in 1946.
sea at Quarto, and La Lepre, a The two teams share grounds at the Luigi Ferraris
popular place in which to chill stadium, which means that on Derby Day neither
out and enjoy a drink or two – team has the home turf advantage. Genova emblem
both of these open late.
Other famous names
are Winterose in Portofino the Lanterna, has live music bands appear at Ju Bamboo,
(a celebrity haunt), and La in addition to some of the most a club decked out in tropical
Mandragola, housed in an popular international DJs. fashion, complete with palms.
old mill in Santa Margherita. For something rather different,
try the Louisiana Jazz Club, a
relaxed venue with a bar and Water Parks
Live Music both local and international Aimed at children, but also great
There are all sorts of venues musicians. In summer, there is fun for adults is the water park of
to visit to hear live music, from usually a programme of jazz Le Caravelle in Ceriale, a small
the roof garden of San Remo’s concerts all along the coast. resort just north of Albenga. This
casino (in the summer) to the Sabot in Santa Margherita is the only aquapark in Liguria
so-called disco-pubs, where you Ligure stages all manner of live and has swimming pools with
can have a drink, listen to some bands that attract a predomi- artificial waves, water slides,
music, and maybe even nantly young crowd. It also chutes, waterfalls, whirlpools
have a dance. hosts popular live music and all sorts of water entertain-
In Genoa, DLF, in an old evenings outside during the ment, as well as animated
converted cinema west of summer. In Savona, the best figures and shows.
DIRECTORY
Theatres Chez Vous Defilla Live Music
Lavagna Chiavari
Casino Piazza Milano 14. Piazza Matteotti. DLF
San Remo Tel 0185 324 738. Tel 0185 309 829. Genoa
Corso degli Inglesi 18. Via Degola 9.
Tel 0184 5951. Estoril Moonlight Giacomel Tel 010 593 650.
∑ casinosanremo.it Genoa Alassio
Corso Italia 7/D. Via Mazzini 67. Ju Bamboo
Teatro Carlo Felice Tel 010 362 37 54. Tel 0182 640 474. Savona
Genoa Via Famagosta 2.
Passo Eugenio Montale 4. Piscine dei Castelli I Tre Merli Tel 019 800 624.
Tel 010 538 11. Sestri Levante Genoa Louisiana Jazz Club
∑ carlofelice.it Piazza Marinai d’Italia 3. Porto Antico, Pal. Millo. Genoa
Tel 0185 480 001. Tel 010 246 44 16.
Teatro Comunale ∑ piscinedeicastelli.it Via San Sebastiano 36r.
Chiabrera La Lepre Tel 010 585 241.
Savona Bars and Cafés Genoa Raggio di Luna
Piazza Armando Diaz 2. Piazza della Lepre 5r. Albenga
Tel 019 820 409. Bar delle Rose Tel 010 254 39 06. Piazza Rossi 141.
∑ teatrochiabrera.it San Remo La Mandragola Tel 0182 540 216.
Corso Imperatrice 80. Santa Margherita Ligure
Discos and Clubs Tel 0184 53 91. Via dei Mulini 1. Sabot
Tel 0185 284 900. Santa Margherita Ligure
La Capannina Caffè Colombo Piazza Martiri della Libertà
Alassio Regione Serre 20. Santa Margherita Monumento 32. Tel 0185 280 747.
Tel 0182 642 250. Ligure Genoa
∑ lacapannina alassio. Via Pescino 13. Via V Maggio 28. Water Parks
com Tel 0185 287 058. Tel 010 386 239.
Le Caravelle
Carillon Caffè Klainguti Winterose Ceriale
Santa Margherita Ligure Genoa Portofino Via Sant’Eugenio.
Via Paraggi a Mare 10. Piazza di Soziglia 98r. Calata Marconi 42. Tel 0182 931 755.
Tel 0185 286 721. Tel 010 860 26 28. Tel 0185 269 500. ∑ lecaravelle.com



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SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 206–209

Travel Information 210–211





















































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206  SUR VIV AL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION


On the whole, visitors will find that Liguria Healthcare in all its usual forms is available
has a good standard of services and throughout the region, though the best
infrastructure. It is easy to travel around, facilities are inevitably found along the coast,
particularly along the coast; the people are where there are also much more likely to be
friendly; and, in a region that has such a long English-speaking medical staff.
and well-established tourist season, there are People with disabilities are well catered for
good sources of information, whether it is in Liguria. Good sources of information and
from a local tourist office or from the Internet. other services are provided, as well as access
Many of the tourist-oriented websites have to most museums, which are generally
text in English as well as in Italian. modern and well designed.

Local tourist offices usually
open from 8am–12:30pm
and 3–7pm Monday to Friday,
with some larger offices
opening for longer during
the summer. Some offices
open on Saturday mornings.
Bear in mind that the tourist
information kiosks found at
major transport termi nals are
generally fairly basic.

Communications
Post offices are found in all
Ligurian towns and there is
The crowded beach at Camogli in the summer often more than one branch.
They are usually open only in
When to Visit Travel Safety Advice
the morning, from 8:30am to
Of all the Italian regions, Visitors can get up-to-date travel 1:30pm (noon on Saturdays
Liguria is the one with the most safety information from the and the last day of the month),
tem perate climate. Even in Foreign and Commonwealth although in the large towns
winter, its climate is generally Office in the UK, the State there are usually post offices
warmer than it is in much of Department in the US and the
Italy, with the exception of Sicily. Department of Foreign Affairs
As a result, there is only a and Trade in Australia.
relatively short period when
tourists don’t visit. Further more,
such are the cultural attractions Tourist Information
of the region, that there is plenty There are four Ligurian
to do even when the climate provinces – Genoa, Imperia,
isn’t hot enough for long stints La Spezia and Savona – but five
by the seaside. tourist boards or Informazioni
However, while Liguria is e Accoglienza Turistica (IAT):
virtually a year-round attraction, Riviera dei Fiori for Imperia;
there is still an identifiable high Riviera delle Palme for Savona;
season, which extends from May Genoa for the city and its
to the end of September. Tourists environs; Tigullio, with
from Britain, France, Germany responsibility for the rest of
and Holland, as well as from Italy, the province of Genoa; and
pour into the region during this lastly Cinque Terre e Golfo dei
period, when the entire coast Poeti, which covers the La
can become extremely crowded. Spezia area. In every good-
Visitors more interested in sized town you will find a
cultural pursuits should consider tourist office (or, in the smaller
visiting in March, April, towns, a “Pro loco” office),
September or October, when which will have information
the weather is cooler and the about the local sights and Sailing along the coast, a very popular
hotels are quieter. hotels and restaurants. sport in Liguria
Rows of colourful boats in Vernazza, Cinque Terre



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  207

Liguria on the Internet
that stay open until 5pm. that remain are almost all
Stamps (for postcards and operated by phone card, which Although websites can vary
normal letters) can be bought you can buy from tobacconists, considerably in terms of the
from any tobacconist shop, certain kiosks and from post information provided – in
called a tabaccaio. offices. particular whether this is
Public telephones are not as There are plenty of Internet precise and up-to-date –
common as they once were, cafés along the coast in which the range of information
owing to the growth in use to browse the Internet or to available on the Internet
of mobile phones. Those send e-mails. about Liguria is of a much
better standard than that
provided in most other
Hospitals and Italian regions.
Pharmacies All the five regional tourist
Pharmacies observe the hours offices, as well as each local
of 9am–1pm and 4–8pm, tourist office, have their own
closing on Saturday afternoons specific website, which can
and all day on Sunday. These provide information about
hours may be extended in the local events, among other
larger tourist resorts on the things. Many museums and
coast, where some pharmacies other attractions have their
stay open continuously until own websites, too.
8pm, and sometimes later. For a greater overview,
Every city in Liguria has a particularly if you have not
hospital. EU citizens with the decided where in Liguria you
form EIII are entitled to emerg- wish to go, you should visit
ency medical assistance free of the Ligurian regional website
charge, but may have to pay for (see Directory), which is a
other treat ments. It is therefore hugely useful resource, and
Entrance to a pharmacy in the old centre vital that you take out proper includes links to many other
of Albenga travel insurance. local websites.
DIRECTORY
Travel Safety Provincia Savona Dolceacqua San Remo
Advice Servizio Turismo Tel 0184 206 666. Tel 0184 590 59.
Tel 019 831 33 26.
Australia Finale Ligure Santa Margherita
Department of Foreign Local Tourist Tel 019 681 019. Ligure
Affairs and Trade Offices Imperia Tel 0185 287 485.
∑ dfat.gov.au Tel 0183 660 140. Sarzana
∑ smartraveller.gov.au Alassio Tel 0187 620 419.
Tel 0182 647 027. La Spezia
UK Tel 0187 770 900. Sestri Levante
Foreign and Albenga Lavagna Tel 0185 457 011.
Commonwealth Office Tel 0182 558 444. Tel 0185 395 070. Spotorno
∑ gov.uk/foreign- Albisola Superiore Tel 019 741 50 08.
travel-advice Tel 019 400 25 25. Lerici Varazze
Tel 0187 967 346.
US Andora Tel 019 935 043.
Department of State Tel 0182 681 004. Levanto
∑ travel.state.gov Tel 0187 808 125. Internet
Arma di Taggia Loano
Tourist Tel 0184 437 33. Tel 019 676 007. Liguria Region
Information Bordighera Moneglia ∑ turismoinliguria.it
and ∑ regione.liguria.it
Genoa Visitor Center Tel 0184 262 322. Tel 0185 490 576. Parco Nazionale delle
Tel 010 557 29 03. Borgio Verezzi Pietra Ligure Cinque Terre
IAT Riviera dei Fiori Tel 019 610 412. Tel 019 629 003. Tel 0187 762 600.
Tel 0184 590 59. Camogli Portofino ∑ parconazionale
IAT Tigullio Tel 0185 771 066. Tel 0185 269 024. 5terre.it
Tel 0185 287 485. Castelnuovo Magra Portovenere Genoa
∑ visitgenoa.it
Provincia La Spezia Tel 0187 693 306. Tel 0187 790 691.
Servizio Turismo Chiavari Rapallo
Tel 0187 770 900. Tel 0185 325 198. Tel 0185 230 346.





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208  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Other Useful Information

In common with the other regions of Italy, Liguria does
not present any particular problems as far as crime is
concerned, even in the most popular tourist resorts. Visitors
should, however, always observe the usual rules of common
sense when travelling around. Every town possesses, besides
a traffic police station, a police (carabinieri) station, which is
open 24 hours a day and to which visitors should turn to in an
emergency. All towns have banks with cash machines where
visitors can withdraw euros.
Law and Order Personal Safety
In Italy the forces of law and Use common sense regarding A member of the carabinieri in his
order are organized into two personal safety. Do not carry distinctive uniform
divisions: the carabinieri and large sums of cash with you
the polizia. The former are when you are out, and do leave reception staff about these
responsible for public order, any valuables, at your hotel, in a areas.) In the countryside,
with communal, provincial or safe if possible. You may wish to however, and in the resorts,
regional jurisdiction, and are keep a separate photocopy there are generally fewer
commonly seen on patrol in of personal documents, concerns about personal safety,
the streets. The duties of the so that you can request though it pays to be alert if you
polizia are more wide- duplicates in the event of are out late at night.
ranging, being generally theft. Naturally, you If you wish to hire a taxi, make
more concerned with should never leave sure that you choose an official
criminal investigations. home without taking out one. Your hotel should be able
At local level, you also full insurance cover. to recommend a reputable taxi
find the municipal police, The places where you are firm. Make sure that the meter
including the traffic most likely to encounter is switched on, or that the fee is
police (vigili urbani), who pickpockets include agreed in advance.
can deal with minor or railway stations and ferry
emergency situations terminals, or in any Disabled Visitors
that do not involve traffic. crowded place, such as a
In the event of a theft, bus, a market or a street Liguria provides relatively
you should report the festival. If you are good information for people
crime at the nearest travelling by car, make with disabilities. Genoa has a
police station in order sure that you always helpful service called Terre di
to validate any Municipal leave the vehicle locked, Mare (www.terredimare),
insurance claim. Policeman and do not leave any which is designed specifically
items in full view. for tourists. The national hotel
Genoa is a large bustling port site (www.italiapertutti) is
Firefighters
city with, inevitably, some also a useful resource.
In Liguria, forest fires, often districts that it is best to avoid. It is always wise to phone
encouraged by the constant (On arrival at your hotel, it is a a hotel or an attraction in
wind that blows throughout good idea to ask the advance to check the facilities.
the year, are suprisingly
frequent. Therefore, if you
are exploring the countryside
it is essential to observe all
the standard countryside
code practices, especially
with regard to not lighting
a fire outside designated
areas, and making sure that
cigarettes are completely
extinguished.
The region is well equipped
with fire stations, even in
rural areas, and fire engines
respond rapidly to alarm
calls. Firefighters also attend
other types of emergencies. A firefighting plane in action during a summer fire in the hinterland




208-209_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 208 09/09/16 10:44 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  209


can also be used to withdraw cash
(though the latter transaction is
not usually good value for
money). VISA, American Express,
MasterCard and Diners Club are
the most commonly used cards.

The Euro
Since January 2002 the euro has
been the sole official currency
in all participating states of the
European Union. This means
that euro notes and coins are
Entrance to one of the larger banks in Liguria valid throughout the so-called
“eurozone”, including Italy.
Banks and Exchange has cashpoint/ATM machines
Currency can be changed in (known as bancomat), where it DIRECTORY
various ways. You will find is possible to withdraw money
bureaux de change in the larger using a debit or credit card. General Emergencies
airports and towns, and it is also These can normally be used Tel 113.
possible to change money in 24 hours a day. Carabinieri (Police)
hotels and travel agencies. As a Despite these options, you Tel 112.
general rule, however, the banks are still advised to arrive in Fire Service
offer the best exchange rates. Liguria with at least a few euros Tel 115.
Banks in Italy usually open from for immediate use, particularly if
8:30am to 1:30pm, and from you are due to arrive late in the Breakdown Service
Tel 116.
3pm to 4pm, Monday to day or at a weekend. Remember
Friday. Note that the banks that for all types of transaction Ambulance
often close early the day before you will need to show some Tel 118.
a public holiday. Opening hours form of identification. Coastguard
of bureaux de change are more Credit cards are widely Tel 15 30.
variable. Every town in Liguria accepted for purchases and
Banknotes and Coins
E Banknotes are available in seven
L
I denominations. The 5-euro note is grey, the
M 10-euro is pink, the 20 is blue, the 50 orange,
I the 100 green, the 200 yellow and the 500
S
C purple. There are eight different coins. The 1-
A 5 euros and 2-euro coins are silver and gold, those
F
worth 50, 20 and 10 cents are gold, while
10 euros L E those worth 5, 2 and 1 cent are bronze.
I
M
I
S
C
A 20 euros
F
E 2 euros 1 euro
50 euros I L
M
I
S
C
A
F 100 euros
E 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
L
I
M
200 euros I
S
C
A
500 euros F 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
208-209_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 209 09/09/16 10:44 am

210  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Liguria is a narrow and relatively small region, train or by boat). In terms of reaching Liguria,
so moving from place to place is usually easy. Genoa has one of Italy’s major airports. There
This is particularly true of the coast, which are also long-distance train and coach
has good train and bus services, as well as a services, with good links from France and
decent road network (though traffic can be from other parts of Italy. There are various
a problem in high season). While there are ferry services, too, though most of these
buses to the main inland towns, visitors need operate from within Italy. Of more use to
a car to explore inland areas. A car can be a visitors are the ferries which ply between the
hindrance on the coast in summer, however, main Ligurian resorts in summer. For those
when parking is virtually impossible in some with a private yacht, there are plenty of
places, including in the Cinque Terre (to marinas. Most of these can offer good
which you are advised to travel on foot, by facilities and moorings for all sizes of craft.
Arriving by Air
The main airport in Liguria
is the Cristoforo Colombo at
Genova-Sestri, west of the city.
Ryanair and BA flights arrive
here direct from the United
Kingdom. Alternative entry
points are Nice (with easyjet,
British Midland and BA), an easy
train ride from the Riviera di
Ponente, and Pisa (with Ryanair
and BA), just 85 km (53 miles)
from La Spezia. The closest
airports receiving flights from
North America are Milan
and Rome. A stretch of the motorway linking Liguria’s main towns
Regular buses link Cristoforo
Colombo airport with the ferry the best part of 24 hours, you motorways link the coast with
terminal and Principe and would do better to fly and hire Parma, Milan and Turin. The
Brignole train stations in Genoa, a car on arrival. The main rental other principal route is state
and run from 5:30am to 11:45pm. companies have desks in the road no. 1 (SS1), the so-called
There is also a small airport airport, but car hire in Italy can Via Aurelia, first laid by the
at Villanova d’Albenga, on be expensive – you’ll often get a Romans. It runs the length of
the Riviera di Ponente, but better rate if you arrange the the coast, sometimes offering
at present this receives only car before leaving home. glimpses of the sea. Inland
domestic flights. A motorway (autostrada) – roads tend to be narrow and
the A10 and its continuation winding but are in good
the A12 – provides fast access condition and pass through
Travelling by Car along the Ligurian coast, often stunning scenery.
Since driving to Liguria though this route can become If you plan to drive, note
from the UK (either via the Swiss busy in holiday season and at that parking in the resorts
Alps or the French riviera) takes weekends. Heading inland, can be difficult (and stressful)
in high season. Also note that
petrol stations are scarce in the
hinterland once you head away
from the main towns, with few
opening on Sundays or in
the evening.

Travelling by Train
It is much simpler to reach
Liguria by train than it used
to be, though it is a more
expensive option than flying.
Genoa’s port and airport, both busy traffic hubs From the UK, you can take the




210-211_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 210 09/09/16 10:48 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  211


Eurostar to Paris, and then and nearby suburbs. Tourist DIRECTORY
the TGV right down to Nice tickets, valid for 24 or 48 hours,
(a journey of around 12 hours), are also available. Tickets, sold Airports
from where the coastal line by newspaper kiosks and
runs east into Liguria. tobacconists, must be bought Genoa
Both fast and slow trains in advance and validated in the Tel 010 60151.
serve the towns along the machine once on board. ∑ airport.genova.it
Ligurian coast. In general, trains Genoa also has a developing Nice
from the north or west arrive at metro, and two funiculars,
Genoa’s Stazione Principe, while which link Piazza del Portello Tel 00 33 17 2000.
those from the south and east and Largo della Zecca with ∑ nice.aeroport.fr
arrive at Stazione Brignole. Genoa’s upper districts. From Pisa
Both stations have good Piazza del Portello you
bus connections. can also take the lift Tel 050 500 707.
The historic up to the belvedere ∑ pisa-airport.com
Genoa–Casella line, at Castelletto.
which runs inland to Car Hire
the Apennines, is a Ferries and
rare example of a Avis
narrow-gauge railway Marinas Tel 010 650 72 80.
(see p92). Logo of It is possible to travel ∑ avisautonoleggio.it
Riviera Trasporti to Liguria by sea,
though most services Hertz
Travelling by Coach Tel 010 651 24 22.
are from within Italy. Genoa’s
Eurolines runs coaches to splendid Stazione Marittima is ∑ hertz.com
Liguria from elsewhere in the main hub for ferries, with
Europe, but travelling by train connec tions to Cagliari and State Railways
or air doesn’t cost much more. other ports in Sardinia, and
Within Liguria, coach travel Palermo in Sicily. Overseas links Information
(often more expensive than are with Corsica, Tunis and Tel 892 021.
train travel) is most useful Barcelona. Ferries from Corsica ∑ trenitalia.com
for journeys into the mountains: also arrive at Vado, near Savona.
in many inland areas coaches Several companies operate Coaches
are the only means of transport. these services, including Tirrenia
Coach services from Genoa and Grimaldi. Regional Companies
(run by different companies) In summer, local ferry services La Spezia Tel 0187 522 511.
leave from Piazza Acquaverde run along the Ligurian coast, ∑ atclaspezia.it
and Piazza della Vittoria, close primarily in the Golfo del Tigullio, Rapallo (Tigullio)
to Stazione Principe and the Golfo dei Poeti and along
Stazione Brignole, respectively. the coast of the Cinque Terre. ∑ tigulliotrasporti.it
For those with their own boat, San Remo Tel 0189 592 706.
there are more than 60 landing ∑ rivieratrasporti.it
City Transport points and marinas along the Savona Tel 019 220 12 31.
Buses in Genoa, run by the coast, including the famous tiny ∑ acts.it
Azienda Mobilità e Trasporti harbour at Portofino. The marinas
(AMT), are easy to use since are generally well-equipped City Transport
they charge a flat rate for and can accommodate a total
trips within the city limits of around 16,000 boats. Genoa (AMT)
Tel 848 000 030.
∑ amt.genova.it
Ferries

Stazione Marittima
∑ stazionimarittimegenova.it
Tirrenia Tel 892 123.
∑ tirrenia.it
Grimaldi Tel 010 209 45 91.
∑ gnv.it
Information
∑ ferriesonline.com
San Remo Train Station




210-211_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 211 09/09/16 10:48 am

212  GENER AL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Apricale 21, 164 Berengarius 41
main entries. hotels 182 Il Bergamasco see Castello, Giovan
restaurants 196 Battista
A Apuan Alps 130, 131 Bergeggi 24, 144–5
Abbeys Aquarium (Genoa) 12, 31, 50, 65, 66–7 restaurants 195
Abbazia di Sant’Andrea di Borzone Arab invasions 41 Bianco, Bartolomeo 81, 91
118 Architecture 30–31 Biblioteca Universitaria (Genoa) 81
San Fruttuoso 12, 14, 33, 41, 114 door carvings 69 Bicknell, Clarence 169
San Venerio (Isola del Tino) 127 Arene Candide 39 Il Bigo (Genoa) 12, 31, 48–9, 64
see also Monasteries and convents Arenzano 26 Biosfera (Genoa) 12, 65
Accademia Ligustica di Belle Arti restaurants 195 Birolli, Renato 29
(Genoa) 58, 59, 74 Arma di Taggia 39, 162 Bisagno, River 91
Adelasia 156 restaurants 195 Boat trips
Adoration of the Magi (Master of Armea Valley 11, 13, 15 Genoa 64
Hoogstraeten) 143 tour of 164–5 Imperia 158
Agostino, Giovanni 140 Arroscia, River 157 Bocca di Magra 130–31
Agriturismo 178 Arsenale Militare (La Spezia) 128 Boccadasse (Genoa) 93
Air travel 210, 211 Art 28–9 Boccanegra, Doge Simone 28, 42, 44,
Alaric 40 Art galleries see Museums and galleries 58
Alassio 26, 30, 155, 156 Assereto, Gioacchino 80 Bocciardo, Domenico 158
festivals 33 Assunta and Saints (Brea) 163 Bogliasco 27, 112
history 47 ATMs 209 restaurants 191
hotels 182 Augustines 90 Bogliasco, River 112
itineraries 15 Autumn 34–5 Boldini, Giovanni
restaurants 194 Avercamp, Hendrick 79 Portrait of the Contessa de Byland 29
Albaro (Genoa) 92–3 Aveto, River 109, 119 Portrait of Miss Bell 93
Albenga 26, 30, 106, 152–5 Bonassola 121
history 40, 41, 42, 45 B hotels 181
hotels 182 Bacezza 118 Bonvicini, Alessandro 78
itineraries 11, 13, 15 Baia delle Favole (Sestri Levante) 120 Bordighera 15, 26, 46, 47, 169
restaurants 194–5 Baia di Maralunga 127 hotels 183
street-by-street map 152–3 Baia del Silenzio (Sestri Levante) 120 restaurants 195–6
Albenga, Bishops of 149, 158 Baiardo 165 Bordone, Paris 29, 74, 78
Albergo dei Poveri (Genoa) 80 restaurants 195 Borgio Verezzi 26, 149
Albini, Franco 57, 76 Baiardo, Giovanni Battista 63 hotels 183
Albintimilium (Ventimiglia) 172, 173 Balbi family 50, 71, 81, 87 restaurants 196
Albisola Superiore 40, 139 Balestrino, festivals 32 Borgo Nuovo (Varese Ligure) 120
restaurants 195 Balilla 46 Borgo Rotondo (Varese Ligure) 120
Albissola Marina 26, 139 Balzi Rossi 26, 37, 38, 39, 173 Bormida, River 144
hotels 182 itineraries 13, 15 Borzonasca 118
restaurants 195 Museo Civico di Archeologica Ligure Bozzano, Guglielmo 140
Alessi, Galeazzo 56, 60, 64, 71, 92 (Pegli) 86 Braccesco, Carlo 121
Allegory of Spring (De Ferrari) 76 Palaeolithic carvings 28 Brea, Antonio 163, 169
Alta Val Nervia 169 Banco di San Giorgio 42, 43, 45, 62, 63 Brea, Francesco 163
Alta Valle Scrivia 25 Banks 209 Brea, Ludovico 62, 90, 145, 163, 169
Alta Via dei Monti Liguri 24 Baptism of Christ (Brea) 163 Assunta and Saints 163
Altare 144 Baptistry (Albenga) 11, 13, 15, 152, 155 Baptism of Christ 163
restaurants 195 Baptistry (Ventimiglia) 172 Cattedrale di Nostra Signora Assunta
Ameglia 37, 130 Barabino, Carlo 47, 58, 59, 80, 91 (Savona) 143
hotels 181 Barabino, Nicolò 112 Convento di San Domenico (Taggia)
restaurants 191 Barbarian invasions 40–41 162
Anchovy Festival (Monterosso) 34 Barbieri, Giovan Francesco see Madonna del Rosario 163
Andersen, Hans Christian 120 Guercino Nostra Signora di Castello (Savona)
Andora 156–7 Bardi, Donato de’, Crucifixion 140, 141 143
restaurants 195 Barnaba da Modena 62 Sant Antonio Abate (Dolceacqua)
Andrea Doria as Neptune (Bronzino) Barnabite monks 90 171
83 Barocci, Federico 56 Breughel, Pieter (the Younger) 131
Annunciation (Caracci) 78, 79 Baroque art 28–9 Brignole, Emanuele 80
Annunciation (Fei) 29 Bars 185, 202–3 Brignole-Sale De Ferrari, Maria,
Ansaldo, Giovanni Andrea 80 Basilian monks 90 Duchess of Galliera 75, 76, 86
Antiques 198, 199 Basilicas see Churches Brignole-Sale, Giovan Francesco II 76,
Antiquity Battle of Meloria (David) 42–3 78, 79
architecture 30 Bed & breakfast 178 Brignole-Sale, Ridolfo 76
art 28 Beerbohm, Max 113 Brignole-Sale family 75, 76, 77, 78, 79
Anton Giulio Brignole-Sale (Van Dyck) Bellotto, Bernardo 128 Brilla, Antonio 142
76 Benedictines 41, 118, 169 Bronze Age 30, 37, 129
Antonello da Messina, Ecce Homo 29, Benelli, Sem 127 Bronzino, Andrea Doria as Neptune 83
68 Benivieni, Lippo di 128 Brusco, Paolo Gerolamo 140
Apennines 19, 23, 25, 109 Benso, Giulio 80, 82 Bureaux de change 209

212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 212 09/09/16 10:48 am

GENER AL INDEX  213




Bus travel 211 Casella, Genoa–Casella train 12, 92 Cathedrals
Bussana Nuova 168 Casella, Francesco 74 Cattedrale dell’Assunta (Ventimiglia)
Bussana Vecchia 15, 168 Casinò Municipale (San Remo) 13, 106, 172
Byron, Lord 91, 92, 109, 127 168, 202, 203 Duomo di San Maurizio (Imperia)
Byzantine Empire 40–41 Cassini, Gian Domenico 164 160
Castel Vittorio 169 Nostra Signora Assunta (Savona)
C Castellari 30, 38 143
Cafés 185, 202–3 Castelli di Sabbia (Alassio) 33 Nostra Signora dell’Orto (Chiavari)
Caffè Roma (Alassio) 15, 156 Castello, Bernardo 69, 78, 82 118
Cairo Montenotte 144 Castello, Giovan Battista 69, 75, 93 San Lorenzo (Genoa) 12, 28, 30, 51,
Calata Giovan Battista Cuneo (Imperia) Castello, Valerio 59, 81 54, 56–7
158 Castelnuovo di Magra 131 San Michele (Albenga) 11, 13, 106,
Cambiaso, Luca 28, 75, 83, 93, 157 restaurants 192 153, 154
Assunta (Triora) 162 Castiglione, Giovan Battista see Il San Pietro (Noli) 145
Basilica di San Francesco di Paula Grechetto San Siro (San Remo) 15, 168
(Genoa) 87 Castles and fortifications Santa Maria Assunta (Sarzana) 28, 132
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta in Ameglia castle 130 Caves 39
Carignano (Genoa) 60 Andora Castello 156–7 Arene Candide 39
Moneglia 121 Apricale castle 164 Balzi Rossi 13, 15, 37, 38, 39, 173
San Matteo (Genoa) 69 Bogliasco castle 112 Barma Grande 38, 173
Santa Maria dell’Assunta (La Spezia) Byzantine-Lombard fortifications Grotta della Bàsura 150
129 (Varigotti) 148 Grotta del Caviglione 38, 173
Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie Cairo Montenotte castle 144 Grotta dei Colombi (Palmaria) 129
(Chiavari) 29, 118 Castel d’Appio (Ventimiglia) 173 Grotta delle Fate 39
Camogli 19, 20, 27, 108, 112–13 Castel Dragone (Camogli) 112 Grotta del Principe 39, 173
festivals 32, 33 Castello D’Albertis (Genoa) 87 Grotta di Santa Lucia Inferiore 151
history 45 Castello dei Doria (Dolceacqua) 171 Grotte di Toirano 11, 13, 15, 37, 39,
hotels 181 Castello Mackenzie (Genoa) 84, 91 150–51
itineraries 10, 12, 14 Castello Malaspina (Santo Stefano Grotte di Valdemino 149
restaurants 191 d’Aveto) 119 Isola di Bergeggi 144
Campi 92 Castello di San Giorgio (La Spezia) Parco del Finalese 148
Campiglia 126 128, 129 Cavour, Camillo 128
Camping 178–9 Castello di Villafranca (Moneglia) Celle Ligure 26, 138
Canaletto 128 121 Centa, River 26, 152
Canavesio, Giovanni 169 Castelnuovo di Magra castle 131 Ceramics 139, 140
Canoeing 200 Castle Brown (Portofino) 114 shopping for 198, 199
Canova, Antonio 61 Cervo castle 157 Ceriana 165
Cantone, Bernardino 63, 74, 75 Cittadella (Sarzana) 133 festivals 32, 34
Cantoni, Gaetano 79, 160 City walls and fortresses (Genoa) 91 Cervo 106, 157
Cantoni, Simone 58 Forte dell’Annunziata (Ventimiglia) restaurants 196
Canzio, Michele 88 172 Cervo, River 157
Capo Nero 26 Forte Begato (Genoa) 91 Cevasco, Giovanni Battista 88, 89, 91
Capo Noli 26 Forte Castellaccio (Genoa) 91 Chapels
Capo Sant’Ampelio (Bordighera) 169 Forte Diamante (Genoa) 91 Cappella del Battistero (Santa Maria
Capo Santo Croce 156 Forte Napoleonico della Bocchetta di Castello, Genoa) 62
Cappella see Chapels (Altare) 144 Cappella di San Giovanni Battista
Car hire 210, 211 Forte Puin (Genoa) 91 (San Lorenzo, Genoa) 57
Car travel 210 Forte di Sant’Antonio (Albissola Cappella Sistina (Savona) 143
Cinque Terre 125 Marina) 139 Charles V, Emperor 44, 45, 82, 83
Caravaggio 77, 78, 79, 128 Forte Sperone (Genoa) 91 Chermayeff, Peter 66
Ecce Homo 75 Forte Tenaglia (Genoa) 91 Chiabrera, Gabriello 142
La Caravelle (Ceriale) 203 Fortezza di Sarzanello 133 Chiavari 27, 37, 45, 118, 119
Carbone, Giovanni Bernardo 78 Fortezza Monleone (Moneglia) 121 festivals 33
Carlone, Giovanni 80 Fortezza di San Giorgio see Castle hotels 181
Carlone, Giovanni Andrea 79, 87 Brown restaurants 192
Carlone, Giovanni Battista 58, 80, 120 Lerici castle 127 Chiesa see Churches
Carlone, Taddeo 63, 75, 83 Millesimo castle 144 Chiodo, Domenico 128
Carlone, Tommaso 80 Noli castle 145 Chioggia, Battle of 44
Carnevale 35 Pietra Ligure castle 149 Chiossone, Edoardo 74
Carracci, Agostino 78 Portovenere castle 126 Churches
Carracci, Annibale 78 Il Priamàr (Savona) 140–41, 143 dell’Annunziata (Altare) 144
Carracci, Ludovico, Annunciation 78, 79 Rapallo castle 113 dell’Assunta (Spotorno) 145
Carrega, Maurizio 161 San Terenzo castle 127 dell’Assunta (Triora) 162
Carrega, Tommaso 161 Spotorno castle 145 Basilica di San Francesco di Paola
Carthaginians 40, 140 Torriglia castle 112 (Genoa) 86–7
Carucci, Iacopo see Pontormo Torrione circolare (Laigueglia) 156 Basilica di San Salvatore dei Fieschi
Casa di Colombo (Genoa) 12, 54, 55, town walls (Varazze) 138 (San Salvatore di Cogorno) 119
60–61 Varese Ligure castle 120 Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Casa Magni (San Terenzo) 127 Castracani, Castruccio 133 (Camogli) 112

212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 213 09/09/16 10:48 am

214  GENER AL INDEX

Churchs (cont.) Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.)
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta in San Nicolò di Bari (Pietra Ligure) 149 Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie
Carignano (Genoa) 60 San Nicolò dell’Isola (Sestri Levante) (Bacezza) 28, 29, 118
Basilica di Santa Maria di Nazareth 120 Santuario della Madonnetta (Genoa)
(Sestri Levante) 120 San Paragorio (Noli) 15, 145 90
Church of the Cappuccini (Santa San Pietro (Borgio Verezzi) 149 Santuario di Monteallegro (Rapallo)
Margherita Ligure) 113 San Pietro (Imperia) 161 113
Collegiata di San Giovanni Battista San Pietro (Portovenere) 11, 13, 14, Santuario di Nostra Signora della
(Imperia) 158 18, 107, 126 Costa (San Remo) 168
Il Gesù (or Sant’Ambrogio) (Genoa) San Pietro in Banchi (Genoa) 63 Santuario di Oregina (Genoa) 87
12, 55, 58 San Rocco (Vallecrosia) 164 Santuario di San Bernardino
Madonna della Punta (Bonassola) San Salvatore dei Fieschi (San (Vernazza) 124
121 Salvatore di Cogorno) 44 see also Abbeys; Cathedrals;
Nostra Signora del Boschetto San Siro (Genoa) 12, 72, 80 Monasteries and convents
(Camogli) 113 San Siro di Struppa (Genoa) 92 Cibei, G 143
Nostra Signora di Castello (Savona) San Tommaso (Dolcedo) 134, 162 Cicagna 119
143, 163 San Tommaso (Pigna) 169 Cimitero di Staglieno (Genoa) 91
Oratorio dei Bianchi (Pietra Ligure) Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Cinema 202
149 Grazie (Voltri) 86 Cinque Terre 19, 25, 27, 122–5
Oratorio del Cristo Risorto (Savona) Santa Caterina (Bonassola) 121 itineraries 10, 13, 14
142 Santa Croce (Capo Santa Croce) 156 map 122–3
Oratorio dell’Immacolata Concezione Santa Croce (Moneglia) 121 travel 125
(San Remo) 168 Santa Giulia di Centaura (Lavagna) wines 187
Oratorio di San Leonardo (Imperia) 119 Circonvallazione a Monte (Genoa) 86,
161 Santa Margherita di Antiochia 90
Oratorio della Santissima Annunziata (Vernazza) 124 La Città dei Bambini (Genoa) 12, 64
(Spotorno) 145 Santa Maria dell’Assunta (La Spezia) Civica Biblioteca Aprosiana
Oratory of In Selàa (Tellaro) 130 129 (Ventimiglia) 172
Oratory of San Bartolomeo (Apricale) Santa Maria Assunta (San Terenzo) Civico Museo see Museums and
164 127 galleries
Oratory of Santa Chiara (Bogliasco) Santa Maria di Castello (Genoa) 54, Clavesana, Marchesi di 156, 157
112 62, 163 Climate 20, 32–5, 206
Pieve di San Venerio (La Spezia) Santa Maria in Fontibus (Albenga) Coach travel 211
129 153 Coastline 22, 26–7
Purificazione di Maria (Apricale) 164 Santa Maria delle Grazie (Le Grazie) Cocteau, Jean 156
Russian Orthodox Church (San Remo) 126 Cogoleto, restaurants 196
15, 168 Santa Maria Maddalena (Bordighera) Coldiroli, restaurants 196
Sacro Cuore (Bussana Vecchia) 168 169 Colla Micheri 156
San Bartolomeo degli Armeni Santa Maria Maddalena (Castelnuovo Colle di Cadibona 19
(Genoa) 90–91 di Magra) 131 Colombiadi 31, 47, 61, 64
San Bernardino (Triora) 162 Santa Maria di Pia (Finale Ligure) Columbus, Christopher 31, 45, 54, 75
San Bernardo (Pigna) 169 148 Casa di Colombo 60–61
San Biagio (Finale Ligure) 148 Santa Maria della Ripa (Pieve di Teco) portrait 86
San Biagio (Imperia) 158 157 Commemorazione della Battaglia
San Domenico (Varazze) 138 Santa Maria delle Vigne (Genoa) 54, Napoleonica (Loano) 34
San Donato (Genoa) 61 68–9 La Commenda (Genoa) 82
San Francesco di Paola (La Spezia) Sant’Agostino (Borgio Verezzi) 149 Communications 206–7
128 Sant’Agostino (Genoa) 54 Conca, Sebastiano 161
San Giorgio (Dolceacqua) 170 Sant’Ambrogio (Alassio) 156 Congress of Vienna 46
San Giorgio (Tellaro) 130 Sant’Ambrogio (Varazze) 138 Constantius 155
San Giovanni Battista (Cervo) 106, Sant’Ampelio (Bordighera) 169 Convents see Monasteries and
157 Sant’Andrea (Levanto) 121 convents
San Giovanni Battista (Chiavari) 118 Sant’Andrea (Sarzana) 132 The Cook (Strozzi) 77, 78
San Giovanni Battista (Finale Ligure) Sant’Andrea (Savona) 142 Coppedè, Gino 91
148 Sant’Antonio Abate (Dolceacqua) Corniglia 13, 14, 123, 124–5
San Giovanni Battista (Monterosso) 170, 171 restaurants 191
124 Sant’Eugenio (Altare) 144 Corradi, Pierantonio 76
San Giovanni Battista (Pieve di Teco) Santi Filippo e Giacomo (Nicola) Corsica 43, 44, 45, 46
157 131 Corsini, Silvio 83
San Giovanni di Pré (Genoa) 82 Santi Giacomo e Filippo (Andora) Corso Imperatrice (San Remo) 168
San Lorenzo (Cairo Montenotte) 144 156, 157 Corso Ponzoni (Pieve di Teco) 157
San Lorenzo (Portovenere) 126 Santi Giacomo e Filippo (Taggia) 162 Craftsmanship, Ligurian 38
San Lorenzo Vecchio (Varigotti) 148 Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio (Ameglia) Cremona, Ippolito 68
San Martino (Bergeggi) 144 130 Cristo degli Abissi (Galletti) 114
San Matteo (Genoa) 54, 69 Santissima Annunziata del Vastato Cristo degli Abissi (San Fruttuoso di
San Matteo (Laigueglia) 156 (Genoa) 70, 80 Camogli) 33
San Michele (Pigna) 169 Santo Stefano (Borgio Verezzi) 149 Croce family 61
San Michele (Ventimiglia) 172 Santo Stefano (Genoa) 59 Crocetta 92
San Nicolò (Albisola Superiore) 139 Santo Stefano (Lavagna) 119 Crosa di Vergagni, Giuseppe 55
San Nicolò (Andora) 157 Santo Stefano (Rapallo) 113 Crosia Valley 11, 13, 15
San Nicolò (Baiardo) 165 Santuario della Madonna della Neve tour of 164–5
San Nicolò (Perinaldo) 164 (Vernazza) 124 Crovana, River 120

212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 214 09/09/16 10:48 am

GENER AL INDEX  215

Crucifixion (de’ Bardi) 141 Doria, Giacomo 59 Fieschi, Ottobono see Hadrian V, Pope
Crucifixion (Maestro Guglielmo) 28, 133 Doria, Lamba 69 Fieschi, Sinibaldo see Innocent IV, Pope
Crusades 41, 43, 44 Doria, Oberto 42, 43 Fieschi family 112, 118, 119, 120
Cuisine 184–7 Doria family 42, 45, 87, 112 La Spezia 128
Curzola, Battle of 44, 62, 69 Castello Malaspina (Santo Stefano Finalborgo 148
Cycling d’Aveto) 119 Finale Ligure 148
races 32 Cervo 157 hotels 183
see also Mountain biking Convento di Monte Carmelo (Loano) restaurants 196
Cyprus 43, 44 149 Finale Marina 148
D Dolceacqua 170, 171 Finale Pia 148
Firefighters 208
Imperia 158
D’Albertis, Enrico Alberto 87 Palazzo Doria Tursi (Genoa) 75 Flowers
D’Andrade, Alfredo 87 Piazza San Matteo (Genoa) 54, 69 festivals 32, 33
Dante Alighieri 151 San Fruttuoso 114 shopping for 198, 199
David, Claude 60 Durazzo, Eugenio 81 Fo, Dario 156
David, Gérard 75 Durazzo, Giuseppe Maria 79 Focaccia 32, 186
David, Giovanni 58 Durazzo, Ippolito 74 Fontana, Carlo 61, 81
Battle of Meloria 42–3 Durazzo, Maria 75, 78, 79 Fontana, Lucio 139
De’ Bardi, Donato 28, 29 Durazzo family 50, 78 Fontana di Nettuno (Palazzo Doria
Crucifixion 140 Dürer, Albrecht 29 Pamphilj, Genoa) 83
De Chirico, Giorgio 29, 140 Portrait of a Young Man 76, 79 Fontana del Tritone (Palazzo Doria
De Ferrari, Francesco 63 Pamphilj, Genoa) 83
De Ferrari, Giovanni Andrea 120, 145 E Food and drink 21, 184–5
De Ferrari, Gregorio 29, 59, 69, 80, 160 Ecce Homo (Antonello da Messina) 68 festivals 185
Allegory of Spring 76 Ecce Homo (Caravaggio) 75 Flavours of the Italian Riviera 186–7
Assunta (Sportorno) 145 Emanuele Philibert of Savoy 128 shopping for 199
Collegiata di San Giovanni Battista Embriaco, Guglielmo 43 what to drink 187
(Imperia) 158 Emergency numbers 209 Football 203
Oratorio di San Leonardo (Imperia) Entella, River 27, 118, 119 Foppa, Vincenzo 143
161 Entertainment 202–3 Forest fires 208
Palazzo Balbi Senarega (Genoa) 81 Equestrian portrait of Gio Carlo Doria Forts see Castles and fortifications
Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 76, 79 (Rubens) 28, 29, 68 France, conflict with 46, 47
De Ferrari, Lorenzo 68 Etruscans 37 Franciscans 87
De Ferrari, Orazio 87, 118 Euro 209 Franco, General Francisco 175
De Grassi, Cristoforo 86 European City of Culture (Genoa) 47, Frederick I, Barbarossa 41, 60, 120
De Stefanis, Alessandro 87 50 Frederick II, Emperor 43
Deiva Marina 120 Events 32–5
restaurants 192 Expedition of the Thousand 47 G
Del Carretto family 144, 145, 148, 149, Gagini, Domenico 57
157 F Gagini, Elia 57
Del Piombo, Sebastiano 50 Fassolo district (Genoa) 86 Gagini, Giovanni 169
Portrait of Andrea Doria 44 Fegina (Monterosso) 124 Gagini school 69, 90, 158
Della Porta, Gian Giacomo 63 Fei, Paolo di Giovanni 128 Galata Museo del Mare (Genoa) 12, 82
Della Robbia, Andrea 129 Annunciation 29 Galleries see Museums and galleries
Della Robbia school 148 Ferrari, Defendente 142 Galletti, Guido, Cristo degli Abissi 114
Della Rovere, Doge Francesco Maria Ferret, Eugenio 168 Gallinara 24, 155
139 Ferries 211 Gardella, Ignazio 59
Della Rovere, Francesco see Sixtus IV Cinque Terre 125 Gardens see Parks and gardens
Della Rovere, Giuliano see Julius II Festa di Capodanno (Genoa) 35 Garibaldi, Giuseppe 47
Della Rovere family 143 Festa della Focaccia con il Formaggio Garibbe 164
Deserto di Varazze 138 (Recco) 32 Garlenda
Di Bartolo, Taddeo 29, 69, 162 Festa dei Furgari (Taggia) 35 festivals 33
Diano Marina 33 Festa della Madonna Bianca hotels 183
Disabled travellers 208 (Portovenere) 33 Gelasio, Pope 57
in restaurants 185 Festa della Madonna della Villa Genoa 19, 21, 48–103
Discos and clubs 202, 203 (Ceriana) 34 airport 210, 211
Diving 200, 201 Festa e Palio di San Pietro (Genoa) 33 architecture 30–31
Doges 44 Festa di Primavera 32 Around Piazza Matteotti street-by-
Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 58 Festa di San Giovanni (Genoa) 33 street 54–5
Dolceacqua 19, 42, 166–7, 170–71 Festival della Canzone Italiana (San Around Via Garibaldi street-by-street
itineraries 11, 13, 15 Remo) 35, 106, 168, 202 72–3
restaurants 196 Festivals 32–5 art 28–9
Dolcedo 134, 162 food 185 Centro Storico 52–69
restaurants 196 Fiascherino 130 city walls and fortresses 91
Dolphins 22 hotels 181 coastline 27
Dominicans 62 Fiasella, Domenico 58, 60, 140 entertainment 202–3
Doria, Andrea 44, 45, 46, 74, 83 Convento di Santa Chiara (Imperia) festivals 32–5
Forte Castellaccio 91 161 food 187
Imperia 158 Palazzo Vescovile (Albegna) 155 Further Afield 84–93
Palazzo di Andrea Doria (Genoa) 69 San Siro (Genoa) 80 Golden Age 42–3, 71
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj (Genoa) 31, Fiera di San Giuseppe (La Spezia) 32 history 37, 40–47
50, 82–3 Fiera di Sant’Agata (Genoa) 35 hotels 180–81
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216  GENER AL INDEX

Genoa (cont.) History 36–47 Lavagna 119
restaurants 184–91 Holy Grail 57 festivals 33
shopping 198–9 Honorius, Emperor 155 restaurants 192
Le Strade Nuove 70–83 Hoogstraeten, Master of, Adoration of Lawrence DH 127, 130
Streetfinder 94–103 the Magi 143 Le Grazie 126
transport 211 Horse riding 201 Le Lame forest reserve 25, 119
Two Days in Genoa 12 Hospitals 207 Lengueglia Doria Tower and House
Genoa Film Festival 47 Hotel dei Castelli (Sestri Levante) 120 (Albenga) 152
Genoa–Casella Train 92 Hotels 178–83 Leonard, St 161
Genova football team 203 booking 178 Leoncino, Andrea 79
Gentile da Fabriano 78 categories and prices 178 Lepanto, Battle of 45, 83, 128
Gentileschi, Orazio 79, 80 Genoa 180–81 Lerici 26, 27, 47, 127
Geronima Brignole-Sale and her Riviera di Levante 181–2 hotels 182
daughter Aurelia (Van Dyck) 79 Riviera di Ponente 182–3 restaurants 192
Ghibellines 43, 44, 45 Levanto 10, 13, 14, 121
Ghirlandaio 86 I hotels 182
Giambologna 81 Imperia 15, 158–61 restaurants 192
Giambono, Michele 78 festivals 33, 34, 35 Lia, Amedeo 128
Giordano, Luca 81 hotels 183 Licini, Osvaldo 61
Giovanni V Paleologo 90 maps 159, 161 Ligurian Alps 162, 172
Giuliano da Sangallo 143 Oneglia 158–9 Ligurian tribes 37–40, 118, 140, 172
Giulio Romano 59 Porto Maurizio 42, 158, 160–61 Lippi, Filippino 75
Giustenice 149 restaurants 196 Livy 140
Glass Impero, River 158, 160 Lloyd, Constance Mary 91
Altare 144 Infiorita 33 Loano 26, 149
shopping for 198, 199 Innocent IV, Pope 119 festivals 34, 35
Glasshouses 22 Internet 207 hotels 183
Golf 200, 201 Iron Age 129 Loano, Battle of 34
Golfo di Lerici 127 Islands Loggia degli Eroi (Palazzo Doria
Golfo di Paradiso 112 Bergeggi 24, 144–5 Pamphilj, Genoa) 83
Golfo dei Poeti 127 Gallinara 24, 155 Loggia dei Mercanti (Genoa) 63
Golfo di San Remo 26 Palmaria 126–7, 129 Loggia dei Quattro Canti (Albenga) 152
Golfo della Spezia 25, 27, 126, 127, 130 Tinetto 127 Loggis dell’Annunciazione (Santa Maria
Golfo del Tigullio 27, 113, 114, 118, 120 Tino 127 di Castello, Genoa) 62
Good Friday processions 32 Isolana di Orero 119 Lombards 40, 41
Gothic architecture 30 Italy, Kingdom of 47 Lomellini family 80
Goths 40 Itineraries 10–15 Lorenzetti, Pietro 128
Great Hall (University of Genoa) 81 A Week in the Riviera 10, 12–13 Louis XIII, King of France 65
Il Grechetto 62, 68, 75, 78, 81 Two Days in Genoa 12 Louis XIV, King of France 44, 46
Greeks 37 Two Weeks in the Riviera 11, 14–15 Lungomare Argentina (Bordighera) 169
Grillo family 68 Lungomare degli Artisti (Albissola
Grimaldi 173 J Marina) 139
Grimaldi, Nicolò 75 Jacopo da Varagine 138 Lungomare Italo Calvino (San Remo)
Grimaldi family 62, 68, 75 Jesuits 55, 90 168
Gropallo, Marchese Gaetano 93 John the Baptist, St 57 Lungomare Vittorio Emanuele II (San
Grotta see Caves Judith and Holofernes (Veronese) 29, 78 Remo) 168
Guardi, Francesco 128 Julius II, Pope 143 Lungomare Vittorio Veneto (Rapallo)
Guelphs 43, 44, 45 Julius III, Pope 170 113
Guercino 60, 78 Justinian I, Emperor 40 Luni 28, 30, 40, 107, 129, 131
Guglielmo, Maestro, Crucifixion 28, 133 Justus von Ravensburg 62 Lunigiana 28, 130, 131
Guidobono, Bartolomeo 79, 140
Guttuso, Renato 29, 140 K M
Knights of St John 43, 82, 162 Madonna with Child (Puget) 54
H Knights Templar 43 Madonna del Rosario (Brea) 163
Hadrian V, Pope 119 Mafritte, René 141
Haffner, Antonio 79 L Magellan, Ferdinand 142
Haffner, Enrico 79 La Spezia 45, 111, 128–9 Magnasco Alessandro 75, 92, 93, 120
Hanbury, Daniel 174 festivals 32 Magnifica Communità degli Otto
Hanbury, Sir Thomas 173, 174 hotels 181–2 Luoghi 46
Hanbury Botanical Gardens (La itineraries 13, 14 Mago 40
Mortola)10 13, 15, 136, 174–5 map 129 Magra, River 25, 27, 109, 130, 131, 132
Hannibal 40, 140 province 27 Malaspina family 112
Harunobo 74 restaurants 192 Manarola 2–3, 110, 123, 125
Hasdrubal 40 Lace, shopping for 198, 199 hotels 182
Health 207 Lago degli Abeti 119 itineraries 13, 14
Hemingway, Ernest 156 Lago del Brugneto 14, 25, 112 restaurants 192
Henry VII, Emperor 28, 61 Laigueglia 156 Manie 148
Heruli 40 hotels 183 Manzù, Giacomo 140
Heyerdahl, Thor 156 restaurants 196 Maps
Hiking 201 Landscape 22–3 Albenga street-by-street
see also Walks Language, phrase book 223–4 152–3
Hills 23 La Lanterna (Genoa) 31, 45, 65 Cinque Terre 122–3

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GENER AL INDEX  217

Maps (cont.) Millesimo 144 Museums and galleries (cont.)
Genoa: Around Piazza Matteotti Mirò, Joan 29, 140, 141 Galleria di Palazzo Bianco (Genoa) 12,
street-by-street 54–5 Miss Muretto (Alassio) 33 75, 163
Genoa: Around Via Garibaldi street- Modern art 29 Galleria di Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 29,
by-street 72–3 Molini di Triora, festivals 34 72, 76–9
Genoa: at a Glance 50–51 Molo Nuovo (Genoa) 31 Galleria Rizzi (Sestri Levante) 120
Genoa: Centro Storico 53 Monasteries and convents Gian Domenico Cassini museum
Genoa: Further Afield 85 Chiostro di Sant’Andrea (Genoa) 61 (Perinaldo) 164
Genoa: Le Strade Nuove 71 Convento degli Agostiniani (Pieve di Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia) 10, 13,
Genoa: Streetfinder 94–103 Teco) 157 14, 29, 128
Imperia: Oneglia 159 Convento di Monte Carmelo (Loano) Museo Archeologico Gerolamo Rossi
Imperia: Porto Maurizio 161 149 (Ventimiglia) 172, 173
Italian Riviera at a Glance 106–7 Convento di San Domenico (Taggia) Museo d’Arte Contemporanea
Italian Riviera Coastline 26–7 162, 163 (Genoa) 61
La Spezia 129 Convento di Santa Chiara (Imperia) Museo di Arte Orientale Eduardo
Parks and nature reserves 24–5 161 Chiossone (Genoa) 74
Prehistoric Liguria 38–9 Ex-convent of Santa Caterina (Finale Museo della Ceramica Manlio Trucco
Putting the Italian Riviera on the Map Ligure) 148 (Albisola) 139
16–17 see also Abbeys Museo Civico (San Remo) 168
Riviera di Levante 110–11 Moneglia 120–21 Museo Civico di Archeologia Ligure
Riviera di Ponente 136–7 restaurants 192–3 (Pegli) 39, 86, 138
Road map of the Italian Riviera see Monet, Claude 19, 169, 170 Museo Civico Archeologico Ubaldo
back endpaper Money 209 Formentini (La Spezia) 128, 129
Sarzana street-by-street 132–3 Montaldo, Doge Leonardo 90 Museo Civico Navale (Pegli) 86
Savona 141 Montale, Eugenio 124, 127 Museo Civico di Storia Naturale
Tour of the Armea and Crosia Valleys Montaretto 121 Giacomo Doria (Genoa) 59
164–5 Monte Aiona 119 Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra
Maragliano, Anton Maria 29, 112, 157, Monte Antola 112 (Albenga) 155
158, 160 Monte Bego 38, 39 Museo Etnografico (Genoa) 87
Basilica di San Francesco di Paula Monte Beigua 24, 138 Museo Etnografico del Ponente
(Genoa) 87 Monte Granarolo 83 Ligure (Cervo) 157
Nostra Signora dell’Orto (Chiavari) 118 Monte Maggiorasca 118 Museo Etnografico e della
Oratorio del Cristo Resorto (Savona) Monte Muzzerone 126 Stregoneria (Triora) 162
142 Monte Peralto 91 Museo Giannettino Luxoro (Nervi) 93
Oratorio della Santissima Annunziata Monte di Portofino 25, 27, 93 Museo della Lanterna (Genoa) 65
(Spotorno) 145 Monte Sant’Elena 144 Museo Marinaro Gio Bono Ferrari
San Giovanni Battista (Finale Ligure) Monte Ursino 145 (Camogli) 112–13
148 Montemarcello 130 Museo del Merletto (Rapallo) 113
San Nicolò (Albisola Superiore) 139 Monterosso al Mare 13, 14, 122, 124 Museo Navale Internazionale del
Santa Maria di Castello (Genoa) 62 festivals 34 Ponente Ligure (Imperia) 15, 160
Santuario della Madonnetta (Genoa) hotels 182 Museo Navale Romano (Albenga) 154
90 restaurants 193 Museo Nazionale dell’Antartide Felice
Santuario della Nostra Signora della Montorsoli Giovanni Angelo 69, 83 Ippolito (Genoa) 64
Costa (San Remo) 168 Monument to the “Gombo” Museo dell’Olivo (Imperia) 15, 159
Maratta, Carlo 60 (Dolceacqua) 170 Museo Permanente della Cultura
Marcenaro, Caterina 57 Moore, Henry 29, 140 Materiale (Levanto) 121
Marconi, Guglielmo 120 Morandi, Giorgio 29, 140 Museo Preistorico dei Balzi Rossi
Margaret of Brabant, funerary Mountain biking 201 (Ponte San Ludovico) 39, 173
monument 28, 61, 68 Mountains 23 Museo di Santa Maria del Castello
Maria Alexandrovna, Czarina 168 Muretto (Alassio) 15, 33, 156 (Genoa) 62
Marieschi, Michele 128 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 75 Museo di Sant’Agostino (Genoa) 12,
Marinas 211 Museums and galleries 28, 54, 61, 69
Maritime Alps 23, 165, 169 Accademia Ligustica di Belle Arti Museo Tecnico Navale della Marina
Markets 198 (Genoa) 58, 59, 74 Militare (La Spezia) 13, 14, 128
Martin of Tours, St 155 Antiquarium del Varignano (Le Museo del Tesoro (Genoa) 12, 57
Martinengo, Alessandro 142 Grazie) 126 Museo del Tesoro della Cattedrale
Martinengo, Filippo 142, 143 Archaeological Museum (Chiavari) 118 (Savona) 143, 163
“Matitone” (Genoa) 61 Archaeological Museum (Lerici) 127 Museo del Vetro e dell’Arte Vetraria
Mazone Giovanni 140 Archaeological Museum (Luni) 131 (Altare) 144
Mazzini, Giuseppe 46, 47, 140 Biblioteca Museo Clarence Bicknell Museum of Song and Sound
tomb 91 (Bordighera) 169 Reproduction (Garibbe) 164
Medici, Lorenzo de’ (the Magnificent) Civico Museo del Finale (Finale Pinacoteca Civica (Imperia) 160
133 Ligure) 148 Pinacoteca Civica (Savona) 28, 29,
Mela, Pier Vicenzo 170 Civico Museo Ingauno (Albenga) 154 140–41, 163
Meloria, Battle of 42–3, 44 Civico Museo Storico-Archeologico Raccolte Frugone (Nervi) 29, 93
Mengs, Anton Raphael 59 (Savona) 141 Music 202–3
Merula, River 156 Galata Museo del Mare (Genoa) 12, 82 Mussolini, Benito 158, 175
Middle Ages Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Nervi) 29, 93
architecture 30 Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Reale N
art 28 (Genoa) 81 Napoleon I, Emperor 46, 128, 144,
Milani, Milena 140 Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola 170
Milano–San Remo (cycle race) 32 (Genoa) 29, 68 Natale Subacqueo (Tellaro) 35

212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 217 09/09/16 10:48 am

218  GENER AL INDEX

National parks and nature reserves Palaces (cont.) Piaggio Teramo 118
24–5 Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini (Genoa) 81 Piano, Renzo 47, 64
Parco Culturale Golfo dei Poeti 127 Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini (Sestri Aquarium (Genoa) 66
Parco dell’Antola 25 Levante) 120 Il Bigo (Genoa) 31, 64
Parco di Portofino 25 Palazzo Franzone (Lavagna) 119 Biosfera (Genoa) 65
Parco del Finalese 24, 135, 148 Palazzo Gavotti (della Loggia) Piazza, Albertino 143
Parco Naturale del Monte Beigua 24, (Savona) 140 Piazza Banchi (Genoa) 54, 63
135, 138–9 Palazzo Interiano Pallavicini (Genoa) 74 Piazza Castello (Pigna) 169
Parco Naturale Regionale dell’Aveto Palazzo di Lamba Doria (Genoa) 69 Piazza Dante (Imperia) 159
119 Palazzo Lercari Parodi (Genoa) 74–5 Piazza De Ferrari (Genoa) 52, 54, 55,
Parco Naturale Regionale di Palazzo Martinengo (Savona) 142 58–9
Montemarcello-Magra 25, 120, 130 Palazzo Morchio (Cervo) 157 Piazza della Fontana Marose (Genoa)
Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre Palazzo Pagliari (Imperia) 161 72, 74
25, 109, 122 Palazzo dei Pavoni (Savona) 140, 142 Piazza Italia (Millesimo) 144
Parco Regionale del Monte Antola 112 Palazzo Peloso Cepolla (Albenga) 154 Piazza dei Leoni (Albenga) 15, 153
Riserva Naturale delle Agoraie 119 Palazzo Podestà (Genoa) 73, 75 Piazza Matteotti (Genoa) 12, 54–5
see also Parks and gardens Palazzo Pubblico (Ventimiglia) 172 Piazza Salineri (Savona) 142
Nativity scenes 90 Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 12, 50, 81 Piazza San Matteo (Genoa) 69
Nature reserves see National parks and Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 12, 72, 75, 76–9 street-by-street 54–5
nature reserves Palazzo della Rovere (Savona) 142–3 Picasso, Pablo 141
Neanderthal man 37, 39 Palazzo San Giorgio (Genoa) 54, 62–3 Piedmont 46
Nervi 12, 93 Palazzo Spinola “dei Marmi” (Genoa) 74 Pietra Ligure 26, 149
festivals 33 Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria (Genoa) festivals 33, 35
Nervia, River 26, 170 54, 68 hotels 183
Nicola 131 Palazzo dell’Università (Genoa) 81 restaurants 196
Nicolò da Voltri 61 Palazzo Vannoni (Levanto) 121 Pieve Ligure, festivals 35
Nightlife 202–3 Palazzo Vecchio del Comune Pieve di Teco 157
Noli 41, 137, 145, 146–7 (Albenga) 154 Pigna 169
festivals 34 Palazzo Vescovile (Albenga) 155 La Pigna (San Remo) 168
itineraries 13, 15 Palazzo Viale (Cervo) 157 Pinacoteca see Museums and galleries
restaurants 196 Renaissance 31 Pino 92
O Torre (Millesimo) 144 Piola, Domenico 29, 69, 79, 80, 81, 145,
Paleolithic age 148, 150, 173
155, 157
Olioliva (Imperia) 35 Palio marinaro del Tigullio 33 Piola, Paolo Geronimo 79
Olives and olive oil 21, 23, 170, 186 Pallavicini, Ignazio Alessandro 88 Piola, Pellegro 78
festivals 32, 35 Pallavicini Durazzo, Clelia 88 Piovene, Guido 20
Museo dell’Olivo (Imperia) 159 Pallavicino family 58 Pirates 41, 45
shopping for 198–9 Palma il Vecchio 78 Pisa, rivalry with 41, 42, 43, 44
Oneglia (Imperia) 15, 158–9, 160 Palmaria, Isola 126–7, 129 Pisanello 29
map 159 hotels 181 Pisano Giovanni, Margaret of Brabant
Oratories see Churches Paraggi 115 funerary monument 28, 61, 68
Otto I, Emperor 156 Parasio (Imperia) 160–61 Plains, coastal 22
Otto of Savoy, Prince 29, 86 Parks and gardens Plants, shopping for 198, 199
Outdoor activities 200–201 Biosfera (Genoa) 65 Poggio, Marcantonio 157
P Giardini Ormond (San Remo) 168 Pogli d’Ortovero, festivals 33
Giardino Esotico Pallanca
Pola, Battle of 44
Paganini, Niccolò 47, 75 (Bordighera) 169 Police 208
Paggi, Giovan Battista 80 Hanbury Botanical Gardens (La Polo, Marco 62
Palaces Mortola) 10, 13, 15, 136, 174–5 Polyptych of St Erasmus (Perin del Vaga)
La Commenda (Genoa) 82 Parco Durazzo Pallavicini (Pegli) 88–9 59
Palazzo di Andrea Doria (Genoa) 69 Parco Urbano delle Mura (Genoa) 91 Polyptych of San Siro (Sacchi) 92
Palazzo degli Anziani (Savona) 141 Parco di Villa Durazzo (Santa Pomodoro, Arnaldo 140
Palazzo Balbi Senarega (Genoa) 81 Margherita Ligure) 113 Pomodoro, Giò 140
Palazzo Bianco (Genoa) 72 Parco della Villetta Di Negro (Genoa) Ponte della Gaietta (Millesimo) 144
Palazzo Borea d’Olmo (San Remo) 168 74 Ponte Grande (Dolcedo) 162
Palazzo Cambiaso (Genoa) 74 Villa Brignole-Sale (Voltri) 86 Ponte Vecchio (Dolceacqua) 170
Palazzo Carrega Cataldi (Genoa) 73, 75 see also National parks and nature Pontormo, Self Portrait 128
Palazzo Comunale (Ameglia) 130 reserves Ponzello, Domenico 75
Palazzo Comunale (Imperia) 159 Parodi, Domenico 79, 81, 90, 169 Ponzello, Giovanni 75
Palazzo Comunale (Loano) 149 Parodi, Filippo 81 Poor Clares 143
Palazzo Comunale (Noli) 145 Parodi, Francesco 142 Population 20
Palazzo del Comune (Perinaldo) 164 Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi (Nervi) 85, 93 Port (Oneglia) 158
Palazzo dei Conti Fieschi (San Pegli (Genoa) 86 Port (Porto Maurizio) 160
Salvatore di Cogorno) 119 Peluzzi, Eso 140 Porta dei Vacca (Santa Fede) (Genoa)
Palazzo Doria (Dolceacqua) 170 Pentema 14, 112 82
Palazzo Doria (Genoa) 73 People 20 Porta Molino (Albenga) 152
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj (or del Perin del Vaga 36, 50, 59, 78, 83 Porta del Molo (Genoa) 64
Principe) (Genoa) 31, 36, 50, 71, 82–3 Polyptych of St Erasmus 59 Porta di Santa Fede (Genoa) 60
Palazzo Doria Tursi (Genoa) 12, 31, 73, Perinaldo 164 Porta Soprana (or Sant’Andrea) (Genoa)
75 Pertini, Sandro 29, 140 12, 55, 60
Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 12, 43, 51, 54, Pharmacies 207 Porta Torlaro (Albenga) 152
58 Phrase book 223–4 Porto Antico (Genoa) 12, 50, 64–5
212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 218 09/09/16 10:48 am

GENER AL INDEX  219

Porto Maurizio (Imperia) 15, 42, 158, Restaurants 184–97 Sala del Minor Consiglio (Palazzo
160–61 disabled access 185 Ducale, Genoa) 58
map 161 Flavours of the Italian Riviera 186–7 Sala dei Misteri (Grotte di Toirano) 150
Porto Nuovo (Genoa) 47 Genoa 188–91 Sala dei Protettori (Palazzo San Giorgio,
Portofino 19, 107, 115, 116–17, 176–7 opening hours 184 Genoa) 63
coastline 27 prices 184 Salea di Albenga, festivals 34
history 40, 45, 47 Riviera di Levante 191–4 Salita di San Bartolomeo del Carmine
hotels 182 Riviera di Ponente 194–7 (Genoa) 80
itineraries 11, 12, 14 smoking in 185 Salita San Nicolò (Genoa) 80
restaurants 193 what to drink 187 Salone delle Compere (Palazzo San
Portofino Peninsula 114–15 Riccomanno, Leonardo 132 Giorgio, Genoa) 63
Portovenere 22, 27, 107, 126 Riomaggiore 13, 14, 123, 125 Salone dei Giganti (Palazzo Doria
festivals 33 restaurants 194 Pamphilj, Genoa) 83
hotels 182 Risorgimento 47 Salone Internazionale della Nautica
itineraries 13, 14 Riviera dei Fiori 135, 158 (Genoa) 34
restaurants 193 Riviera di Levante 108–33 Sampdoria football team 203
Portrait of Andrea Doria (del Piombo) 44 hotels 181–2 San Fruttuoso 41, 114
Portrait of the Contessa de Byland map 110–11 festivals 33
(Boldini) 29 restaurants 191–4 itineraries 11, 12, 14
Portrait of Miss Bell (Boldini) 93 travel 111 San Remo 106, 135, 168
Portrait of a Young Man (Dürer) 76, 79 Riviera delle Palme 135, 156 entertainment 202, 203
Postal services 206–7 Riviera di Ponente 134–75 festivals 32, 35
Prehistory 37, 38–9 hotels 182–3 history 44, 45, 47
Presepi see Nativity scenes map 136–7 hotels 183
Preti, Mattia 78 restaurants 194–7 itineraries 10, 11, 13, 15
Il Priamàr (Savona) 140–41 travel 137 restaurants 196–7
Prino, River 162 Road travel 210, 211 San Salvatore di Cogorno 119
Procaccini, Giulio Cesare 59, 78 Cinque Terre 125 San Terenzo 127
Processione dell’Assunta 33 Robatto, Giuseppe 140 Sanctuaries see Churches
Provost, Jan 28 Robert of Anjou 44 Santa Margherita Ligure 27, 47, 113
Przewalskii horse 38, 173 Rock climbing 200–201 hotels 182
Public holidays 35 Roia, River 26, 172 restaurants 194
Puget, Pierre 60, 80 Roman theatre (Ventimiglia) 172 Santo Stefano d’Aveto 118–19
Madonna with Child 54 Romano, Giovanni 90 Sant’Olcese 92
Punta Bianca 27 Romano, Luzio 83 Saracens 41
Punta del Persico 126 Romans 28, 30, 37, 40 Sardinia, Kingdom of 46, 47
Punta di Portofino 114 Luni 131 Sardorella 92
Q Rosai, Ottone 29 Sarzana 15, 131, 132–3
restaurants 194
Rossese wine 164, 170, 187
Quarries, slate (Lavagna) 119 Rossi, Aldo 59 Sassello 139
Quarto (Genoa) 47 Rotarius, King of the Lombards 40, 41 festivals 33
R Rubens, Pieter Paul 29, 55, 58, 71, 75 Sassetta 128
Equestrian portrait of Gio Carlo Doria
Sassu, Aligi 139, 140
Radundo delle Fiat (Garlenda) 33 28, 29, 68 Saverio, Gerolamo and Francesco 81
Rail travel 210–11 St Ignatius Exorcising the Devil 58 Savona 26, 41, 44, 45, 140–43
Cinque Terre 125 Venus and Mars 72 festivals 32, 35
Genoa–Casella Train 92 Rustichello 62 hotels 183
Rainfall 34 map 141
Rapallo 27, 113 S restaurants 197
festivals 33 Sacchi, Andrea 79 Savona, Bishops of 145
hotels 182 Sacchi, Pier Francesco, Polyptych of San Savoy, House of 46–7, 50, 144
itineraries 12, 14 Siro 92 Forte Sperone (Genoa) 91
restaurants 193–4 Safety Imperia 158
Raphael 29, 83 personal 208 Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 81
Rassegna dell’Olio d’Oliva (Balestrino) 32 travel safety advice 206 Schiaffino, Bernardo 112, 139, 148
Ratti, Giovanni Agostino 142, 145 Sagra della Farinata (Voltri) 34 Schiaffino, Francesco 81
Ray, Man 141 Sagra del Fuoco (Recco) 34 Sciacchetrà 122, 123, 187
Realdo 162 Sagra della Lumaca (Molini di Triora) Sciusa, River 148
Recco 34 Scorza, Sinibaldo 78
festivals 32, 34 Sagra della Mimosa (Pieve Ligure) 35 Seborga 169
restaurants 194 Sagra del Pesce (Camogli) 32, 113 Security 208
Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Sagra delle Pesche (Pogli d’Ortovero) 33 Self Portrait (Pontormo) 128
Marinare (Genoa) 33 Sagra del Pigato (Salea di Albegna) 34 Self-catering 179
Regata Storica dei Rioni (Noli) 34 Sagra delle Rose (Pogli d’Ortovero) 33 Semino, Francesco 112
Reinhart, Fabio 59 Sagra dell’Uva (Varazze) 34 Sestri Levante 12, 13, 14, 40, 120
Renaissance Sagra dell’Uva (Vezzano) 34 hotels 182
architecture 31 Sailing 200, 201 restaurants 194
art 28–9 St Ignatius Exorcising the Devil (Rubens) Settimana Santa 32
Reni, Guido 58, 68, 155 58 Shelley, Mary 127
St Sebastian 29, 78 St Sebastian (Reni) 29, 78 Shelley, Percy Bysshe 109, 127
Republic of Genoa 44–5 Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Palazzo Shopping 198–9
Republic of Savona 143 Ducale, Genoa) 58 Shunsho 74
212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 219 09/09/16 10:48 am

220  GENER AL INDEX

Simone da Pavia 138 Travel (cont.) Via Francigena 132, 133
Sironi, Mario 140 safety advice 206 Via Garibaldi (Genoa) 12, 31, 51, 73,
Sixtus IV, Pope 143 Trensasco 92 74–5
Skiing 201 Triora 19–20, 135, 162 Via Garibaldi (Ventimiglia) 172
Slate 119 Triple Tomb (Triplice Sepoltura) (Balzi Via Julia Augusta 40, 148, 155
Smoking, in restaurants 185 Rossi) 38, 173 Via Paleocapa (Savona) 140, 142
Sorri, Pietro 63 Tuccio d’Andria 143 Via Sottoripa (Genoa) 54, 63
Spinola family 68, 87, 143 Vicomorasso 92
Sport 200–201 U Villanova d’Albenga 155
Spotorno 21, 145 “U Confogu” (Confuoco) 35 Villas
hotels 183 UNESCO 122 Roman villa (Albisola) 139
restaurants 197 University of Genoa 80, 81, 174 Roman villa (Bocca di Magra) 131
Spring 32 Utamaro 74 Roman villa (Le Grazie) 126
Staël, Madame de 74 Villa Brignole-Sale (Voltri) 86
Stazione Marittima (Genoa) 83 V Villa Centurione Doria (Pegli) 86
Stella Maris (Camogli) 33 Val d’Aveto 25, 119 Villa Croce (Genoa) 29, 61
Strada dei Santuari 13, 123 Val Bisagno 92 Villa Di Negro (Genoa) 74
Strozzi, Bernardo 59, 75, 78, 81 Val Crosia 11, 13, 15, 164–5 Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita
The Cook 29, 77, 78 Val di Magra 127 Ligure) 113
Summer 32–3 Val Nervia 169, 172 Villa Durazzo Pallavicini (Pegli) 86,
Sunshine 33 Val Polcevera 92 88–9
T Val Trebbia 25 Villa Faraggiana (Albissola Marina)
Val di Vara 20, 120
139
Taggia 162 Val Varatella 150, 151 Villa Gavotti (Albisola) 139
festivals 35 Valeriani, Giuseppe 58 Villa Giustiniani Cambiaso (Albaro)
restaurants 197 Valle Argentina 162 92
Tavarone, Lazzaro 68, 82, 86, 87 Valle Armea 11, 13, 15, 164–5 Villa Grimaldi Fassio (Nervi) 29, 93
Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 58 Valle Bormida 144 Villa Gropallo (Nervi) 93
Palazzo San Giorgio (Genoa) 62 Valle di Fontanabuona 119 Villa Marigola (San Terenzo) 127
San Lorenzo (Genoa) 56 Valle del Po 41 Villa Nobel (San Remo) 168
Tavella, Carlo Antonio 79 Valle del Polcevera 91 Villa Saluzzo Bombrini (Albaro) 92
Teatro Carlo Felice (Genoa) 12, 47, 59, Valle Roia 172 Villa Saluzzo Mongiardino (Albaro)
202, 203 Valle Scrivia 25, 92 92
Telephone services 207 Vallecrosia Alta 164 Villa Serra (Nervi) 93
Tellaro 27, 110, 130 Vallée des Merveilles 38, 39 Villa Tigullio (Rapallo) 113
festivals 35 Van Cleve, Joos 28, 61 Vinea, Francesco 8–9
restaurants 194 Van Dyck, Anthony 29, 68, 75, 81 Visconti dynasty 44
Temperatures 35 Anton Giulio Brignole-Sale 76, 79 Visigoths 40
Terraces (Cinque Terre) 122, 124, 126 Geronima Brignole-Sale and her Vittorio Emanuele I 75
Theatine Order 72, 80 daughter Aurelia 79 Voltri 86
Theatre 202, 203 Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 72, 76, 79 festivals 34
Tinetto, Isola 127 Vanni, Turino 91 Vouet, Simon 58
Tino, Isola 127 Vannone, Andrea 58, 63
Tintoretto 78 Vara, River 109, 120 W
Tipping, in restaurants 184 Varazze 26, 138 Wael, Cornelis de 79
Titian 29, 128 festivals 34 Walks
Toirano hotels 183 Campiglia 126
Grotte di Toirano 37, 39, 150–51 restaurants 197 Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi (Nervi)
itineraries 11, 13, 15 Varese Ligure 120 85, 93
restaurants 197 Varigotti 15, 148 Strada dei Santuari 13, 123
Torino, Pace di 44 hotels 183 Via dell’Amore 10, 123, 125
Il Torracco (Albenga) 152 restaurants 197 see also Hiking
Torrazza 92 Varni, Santo 91 Water parks 203
Torre degli Aliberti (Savona) 142 Venice, rivalry with 42, 43, 44 Websites 207
Torre del Brandale (Savona) 141 Ventimiglia 26, 135, 172–3 Whales 22
Torre degli Embriaci (Genoa) 62 festivals 33 Wildens, Jan 79
Torre Ghibellina (Savona) 142 history 41, 42, 44 Wildlife 22–3
Torre Gropallo (Nervi) 93 hotels 182 Windsurfing 200
Torre di Leon Pancaldo (Savona) 142 restaurants 197 Wine 187
Torri di Avvistamento (Bergeggi) 144 Venus and Mars (Rubens) 72 festivals 34
Torriglia 14, 112 Vernazza 13, 14, 104–5, 122, 124 Rossese 164, 170, 187
Torta dei Fieschi (Lavagna) 33 restaurants 194 Sciacchetrà 122, 123, 187
Tourism 20–21, 47 Veronese, Paolo 75 shopping for 199
Tourist information 179, 206, 207 Judith and Holofernes 29, 78 Wine bars 202–3
Tours, Armea and Crosia valleys 164–5 Versilia coast 131 Winter 35
Trains see Rail travel Vezzano Ligure, festivals 34 Winter, Ludovico 174
Tramonti 126 Via dell’Amore 10, 123 Witchcraft 20, 162
Trattorias 184–5 Via dell’Ardesia 119 Woolf, Virginia 127
Travel 210–11 Via Aurelia 40, 47, 156, 172, 210 World War II 19, 47, 128
Cinque Terre 125 Via Balbi (Genoa) 81
Riviera di Levante 111 Via Bernardo Ricci (Albenga) 152 Z
Riviera di Ponente 137 Via Bonfante (Imperia) 158 Zoagli 27, 113
212-220_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 220 09/09/16 10:48 am

A CKNOWLEDGMENT S  221

Acknowledgments

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Picture Credits
following people and institutions whose Top part: t = top; tl = top left; tcl = top centre left;
contributions and assistance have made the tc = top centre; tcr = top centre right; tr = top
preparation of this book possible. right. Centre part: ctl = centre top left; ct = centre
top; ctr = centre top right; cl = centre left;
c = centre; cr = centre right; cbl = centre bottom
Special Thanks left; cb = centre below; cbr = centre bottom right.
Agenzia Regionale per la Promozione Turistica “In Lower part: b = bottom; bl = bottom left;
Liguria”; APT Cinque Terre e Golfo dei Poeti; APT di bcl = bottom centre left; bc = bottom centre;
Genova; APT Riviera Ligure delle Palme; APT Riviera bcr = bottom centre right; br = bottom right.
dei Fiori; APT Tigullio; Banca Carige, Genoa; Emma
Brown; Giardini Botanici Hanbury, Ventimiglia; Commissioned Photographs
Grotte di Toirano, Toirano; Soprintendenza per i Lucio Rossi, Polis, Milan: 20bc, 21bl, 22tr, 22cla, 22cra,
Beni Archeologici della Liguria, Genoa; the 22clb, 22br, 23cla, 23cbl, 24tr, 24br, 25tl, 26, 27bl,
restaurant Il Sommergibile in San Remo. 27br, 28cra, 29tl, 29bl, 30tr, 33cra, 34bl, 35br, 36,
39cl, 40tl, 47cr, 50cl, 50bl, 51, 54tr, 54cl, 54cb, 55,
56–7, 58, 59tr, 59br, 60, 61tr, 62tr, 62c, 63, 64, 65tc,
Design and Editorial 68, 72tr, 73, 74tr, 75c, 75bl, 80, 82tl, 82cr, 83c, 83b,
Publishing Managers Fay Franklin, Kate Poole 86, 87cla, 88–9, 90, 91tr, 92t, 92cl, 106–7, 110cl, 111,
Senior Art Editor Marisa Renzullo 112tl, 113, 115t, 118, 119tc, 119bl, 120, 121br, 126,
Revisions Designer Collette Sadler 127t, 127c, 128cla, 129, 130tl, 130br, 131br, 132–3
Revisions and Relaunch Team Asad Ali, Subhashree (except 132bl), 135b 136–7, 138tr, 138bl, 139tr,
Bharti, Stuti Tiwari Bhatia, Madhura Birdi, 139bl, 140cl, 140br, 141c, 142, 143t, 144–5, 148–9,
Subhadeep Biswas, Anna Freiberger, Beverley Ager, 150–51, 152–53 (except 153br), 154–5, 156–7,
Claire Baranowski, Uma Bhattacharya, Sally Ann 158–9, 160–61, 162, 163tc, 163bl, 163bc, 163br,
Bloomfield, Susi Cheshire, Alice Fewery, Rebecca 164–5, 168–9, 170–71 (except 171bl), 172, 173tl,
Ford, Vinod Harish, Amy Harrison, Mohammad 174tr, 174cl, 175, 178bl, 179, 184bl, 198, 199tl,
202bc, 206cb, 207, 209tl, 210, 211b.
Hassan, Jasneet Kaur, Sumita Khatwani, Vincent
Kurien, Megan McCaffrey-Guerrera, Deepak Mittal, Photo Credits
Sonal Modha, Helen Peters, Rada Radojicic, Ellen 123RF.com: Paolo Ardiani 113tl. Acquario di Genova
Root, Beverly Smart, Sands Publishing Solutions, Photo Archive: 67clb/br. akg-images: The
Azeem Siddiqui, Conrad Van Dyk, Laura Walker. Annunciation to Mary (1603) Lodovico Carracci
79cl. Alamy Images: CoffeeChocolates 169bl; Gary
Photography Permissions Cook 11cl; CuboImages srl 12tr /Adriano Bacchella
Thanks are due to those bodies and societies who 187tl/Claudio Beduschi 10cl; Michael Diggin 10tc;
authorized the reproduction of images, Adam Eastland 187c; FAN travelstock/Timm
in particular: Folkmann 11br; Rupert Hansen 170tr; Peter Horree
10br; imagebroker 10bl, 134; Mint Photography
Accademia Ligustica di Belle Arti, 208tr; Stefano Ravera 70; Natalie Tepper 65cr; Tips
Genoa; Acquario di Genova; Banca Carige (coin Images/Tips Italia Srl a socio unico 188bl; Vario
collection and photographic archive, Genoa); images GmbH & Co.KG 15bc. Fabrizio Ardito, Rome:
Galleria di Palazzo Rosso (photographic archive of 21t, 109b, 112br, 173c, 208br. Archivio Electa, Milan:
Genoa town council); Genoa Cricket and Football 41crb, 45clb, 46tl.
Club, Genoa; Museo Amedeo Lia, La Spezia; Museo
Archeologico dei Balzi Rossi, Ventimiglia; Regione Balzi Rossi: 197tr. La Brinca: 192t.
Liguria; Palazzo Ducale, Genoa; Società Editrice
Buonaparte, Sarzana; Edilio: 190tl; Eugenio Bersani, Polis, Milan: 19, 25bl,
UC Sampdoria, Genoa. 121tl, 122, 123t.
Chuflay Bar Restaurant, Hotel Splendido & Splendido
While every effort has been made to contact the Mare: 193tr. Corbis: Archivo Iconografico 43cra;
copyright holders, we apologize for any omissions Owen Franken 39br; John Heseltine 171bl;
and will be happy to include them in future Jean-Pierre Lescourret 176-177; Massimo Listri 84;
editions of the guide. CLAUDIO ONORATI / epa 47tc; Gianni Dagli Orti





221-222_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 221 09/09/16 10:48 am

222  A CKNOWLEDGMENT S


38bl; Gustavo Tomisch 39tr; Ron Watts 204-5. Lino Pastorelli, Sanremo: 34cla. Andrea Pistolesi:
Hotel Punta Est: 183tr. Hotel Villa Agnese: 182bc. 72cl. Polpo Mario: 194br.
Francine Reculez: 172cla. Restaurant Lanterna Blu:
Il Dagherrotipo: Giorgio Oddi 153bc; DK Images: 196bc. Ristorante Zeffirino: 189t; Robert Harding
186cr; John Heseltine 208c DK Images: Ian O’Leary Picture Library: Helmut Corneli 185tr. Daniele Robotti,
all 186-187 except 187tl, 187c. Dreamstime.com: Alessandria: 81tl, 92bl, 123cr, 123br. Roger-Viollet,
2circles 14br; Btvphoto 52; Daliu80 124br; Archivi Alinari, Firenze: 41tc. Ghigo Roli, Modena:
Danbreckwoldt 14tl; Stefano Ember 198br; Lianem 23cra, 23crb, 24cla, 25cra, 174bl.
20tl, 146-147; Guido Nardacci 93bl; Nelikz 124tr;
Paoloairenti 13cl; Roman Rodionov 125tr; Davide Photo Scala, Florence: Museo Navale di Pegli 42bl;
Romanini 33bl; Unknown1861 13tr; Richard Van Musei di Strada Nuova - Sant’ Agostino, Genoa
Der Woude 125bc. 54bl. Superstock: Marco Brivio/age fotostock 18;
Cubo Images 86br; DeAgostini 8-9; José Antonio
Mary Evans Picture Library: 45ca. Moreno/age fotostock 166-7; Francesco
Tomasinelli/Tips Images 87br.
Farabolafoto, Milan: 14, 20cr, 21cr, 23tl, 23tr, 23bl,
23br, 27tr, 32cla, 38tr, 46c, 47bc, 47br, 65bc, 69tr, U Fundegu: 195tr. U Giancu: 193bl.
69cl, 110br, 114cl, 115crb, 131tl, 178cr, 184cr, 185c,
200cl, 206ctl. Fotolia: Miroslawa Drozdowski 2-3; Villa Rosmarino: 181tr.
Freesurf 11br; LiliGraphie 116-7.
Front endpapers: Alamy Images: imagebroker Lcla;
Getty Images: Kevin T. Levesque/Lonely Planet Stefano Ravera Rtc. Corbis: Massimo Listri Rtr.
Images Filippo Monteforte/AFP 32bc; 47cr; Murat iStockphoto.com: fotonazario Rtl; Oreundici Rbl.
Taner 48-9; Taxi/Maremagnum 11tr. Grand Hotel
Savoia: 179bl, 180bc. iStockphoto.com: fotonazario Cover images: Front main and Spine top: AWL Images:
53, Madzia71 124cl, Oreundici 108, Borut Trdina Francesco Riccardo Iacomino.
104-105.
All the other photos are from Archivio Fabio Ratti,
Marka, Milan: Danilo Donadoni 132bl. Archivio Mondadori, Archivio Arnoldo Mondadori
Osvaldo Antica Trattoria: 191bc. Editore, Milan.


















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221-222_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 222 09/09/16 10:48 am

PHR ASE BOOK  223

Phrase Book

In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Aiuto! eye-yoo-toh I’d like to place a Vorrei fare vor-ray far-eh oona
Stop! Fermate! fair-mah-teh long-distance call. una interurbana. in-tair-oor-bah-nah
Call a Chiama un kee-ah-mah oon I’d like to make Vorrei fare una vor-ray far-eh oona
doctor. medico meh-dee-koh a reverse-charge telefonata a carico teh-leh-fon-ah-tah ah
Call an Chiama un’ kee-ah-mah oon call. del destinatario. kar-ee-koh dell dess-
ambulance. ambulanza am-boo-lan-tsa tee-nah-tar-ree-oh
Call the Chiama la kee-ah-mah lah I’ll try again later. Ritelefono più ree-teh-leh-foh-noh
police. polizia pol-ee-tsee-ah tardi. pee-oo tar-dee
Call the fire Chiama i kee-ah-mah ee Can I leave a Posso lasciare poss-oh lash-ah-reh
brigade. pompieri pom-pee-air-ee message? un messaggio? oon mess-sah-joh?
Where is the Dov’è il telefono? dov-eh eel teh-leh- Hold on. Un attimo, oon ah-tee-moh,
telephone? foh-noh? per favore pair fah-vor-eh
The nearest L’ospedale loss-peh-dah-leh pee- Could you speak Può parlare più pwoh par-lah-reh
hospital? più vicino? oo vee-chee-noh? up a little please? forte, per favore? pee-oo for-teh, pair
fah-vor-eh?
Communication Essentials local call telefonata locale te-leh-fon-ah-tah
Yes/No Si/No see/noh loh-cah-leh
Please Per favore pair fah-vor-eh
Thank you Grazie grah-tsee-eh Shopping
Excuse me Mi scusi mee skoo-zee How much Quant’è, kwan-teh
Hello Buon giorno bwon jor-noh does this cost? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh?
Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-veh-dair-chee I would like … Vorrei … vor-ray
Good evening Buona sera bwon-ah sair-ah Do you have …? Avete …? ah-veh-teh…?
morning la mattina lah mah-tee-nah I’m just looking. Sto soltanto stoh sol-tan-toh
afternoon il pomeriggio eel poh-meh-ree-joh guardando. gwar-dan-doh
evening la sera lah sair-ah Do you take Accettate ah-chet-tah-teh kar-teh
yesterday ieri ee-air-ee credit cards? carte di credito? dee creh-dee-toh?
today oggi oh-jee What time do A che ora apre/ ah keh or-ah
tomorrow domani doh-mah-nee you open/close? chiude? ah-preh/kee-oo-deh?
here qui kwee this one questo kweh-stoh
there la lah that one quello kwell-oh
What? Quale? kwah-leh? expensive caro kar-oh
When? Quando? kwan-doh? cheap a buon prezzo ah bwon pret-soh
Why? Perchè? pair-keh? size, clothes la taglia lah tah-lee-ah
Where? Dove? doh-veh? size, shoes il numero eel noo-mair-oh
white bianco bee-ang-koh
Useful Phrases black nero neh-roh
How are you? Come sta? koh-meh stah? red rosso ross-oh
Very well, Molto bene, moll-toh beh-neh yellow giallo jal-loh
thank you. grazie. grah-tsee-eh green verde vair-deh
Pleased to Piacere di pee-ah-chair-eh dee blue blu bloo
meet you. conoscerla. coh-noh-shair-lah
See you later. A più tardi. ah pee-oo tar-dee Types of Shop
That’s fine. Va bene. va beh-neh antique dealer l’antiquario lan-tee-kwah-ree-oh
Where is/are …? Dov’è/Dove sono …? dov-eh/doveh soh-noh? bakery il forno eel forn-oh
How long does Quanto tempo ci kwan-toh tem-poh /il panificio /eel pan-ee-fee-choh
it take to get to …? vuole per chee voo-oh-leh pair bank la banca lah bang-kah
andare a …? an-dar-eh ah …? bookshop la libreria lah lee-breh-ree-ah
How do I Come faccio per koh-meh fah-choh butcher la macelleria lah mah-chell-eh-ree-ah
get to …? arrivare a …? pair arri-var-eh ah…? cake shop la pasticceria lah pas-tee-chair-ee-ah
Do you speak Parla inglese? par-lah een-gleh-zeh? chemist la farmacia lah far-mah-chee-ah
English? delicatessen la salumeria lah sah-loo-meh-ree-ah
I don’t Non capisco. non ka-pee-skoh department store il grande eel gran-deh
understand. magazzino mag-gad-zee-noh
Could you speak Può parlare pwoh par-lah-reh fishmonger il pescivendolo eel pesh-ee-ven-doh-loh
more slowly, più lentamente, pee-oo len-ta-men-teh florist il fioraio eel fee-or-eye-oh
please? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh? greengrocer il fruttivendolo eel froo-tee-ven-doh-loh
I’m sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dee-spee-ah-cheh grocery alimentari ah-lee-men-tah-ree
Useful Words hairdresser il parrucchiere eel par-oo-kee-air-eh
ice cream parlour la gelateria lah jel-lah-tair-ree-ah
big grande gran-deh market il mercato eel mair-kah-toh
small piccolo pee-koh-loh newsstand l’edicola leh-dee-koh-lah
hot caldo kal-doh post office l’ufficio postale loo-fee-choh pos-tah-leh
cold freddo fred-doh shoe shop il negozio di eel neh-goh-tsioh dee
good buono bwoh-noh scarpe skar-peh
bad cattivo kat-tee-voh supermarket il supermercato eel su-pair-mair-kah-toh
enough basta bas-tah tobacconist il tabaccaio eel tah-bak-eye-oh
well bene beh-neh travel agency l’agenzia di viaggi lah-jen-tsee-ah dee
open aperto ah-pair-toh vee-ad-jee
closed chiuso kee-oo-zoh
left a sinistra ah see-nee-strah Sightseeing
right a destra ah dess-trah art gallery la pinacoteca lah peena-koh-teh-kah
straight on sempre dritto sem-preh dree-toh bus stop la fermata lah fair-mah-tah
near vicino vee-chee-noh dell’autobus dell ow-toh-booss
far lontano lon-tah-noh church la chiesa lah kee-eh-zah
up su soo la basilica lah bah-seel-i-kah
down giù joo closed for chiuso per le kee-oo-zoh pair leh
early presto press-toh holidays ferie fair-ee-eh
late tardi tar-dee garden il giardino eel jar-dee-no
entrance entrata en-trah-tah library la biblioteca lah beeb-lee-oh-teh-kah
exit uscita oo-shee-ta museum il museo eel moo-zeh-oh
toilet il gabinetto eel gah-bee-net-toh railway station la stazione lah stah-tsee-oh-neh
free, unoccupied libero lee-bair-oh tourist l’ufficio loo-fee-choh
free, no charge gratuito grah-too-ee-toh information di turismo dee too-ree-smoh
223-224_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 223 09/09/16 10:48 am

224  PHR ASE BOOK

Staying in a Hotel lesso less-oh boiled
Do you have any Avete camere libere? ah-veh-teh kah- il manzo eel man-tsoh beef
vacant rooms? mair-eh lee-bair-eh? la melanzana lah meh-lan-tsah- aubergine
double room una camera doppia oona kah-mair-ah nah
doh-pee-ah la minestra lah mee-ness-trah soup
with double bed con letto kon let-toh mah-tree- l’olio loh-lee-oh oil
matrimoniale moh-nee-ah-leh il pane eel pah-neh bread
twin room una camera oona kah-mair-ah le patate leh pah-tah-teh potatoes
con due letti kon doo-eh let-tee le patatine fritte leh pah-tah-teen-eh chips
single room una camera oona kah-mair-ah free-teh
singola sing-goh-lah il pepe eel peh-peh pepper
room with a una camera oona kah-mair-ah la pesca lah pess-kah peach
bath, shower con bagno, kon ban-yoh, il pesce eel pesh-eh fish
con doccia kon dot-chah il pollo eel poll-oh chicken
porter il facchino eel fah-kee-noh il pomodoro eel poh-moh-dor-oh tomato
key la chiave lah kee-ah-veh il prosciutto eel pro-shoo-toh ham
I have a Ho fatto una oh fat-toh oona preh- cotto/crudo kot-toh/kroo-doh cooked/cured
reservation. prenotazione. noh-tah-tsee-oh-neh il riso eel ree-zoh rice
Eating Out il sale eel sah-leh salt
la salsiccia lah sal-see-chah sausage
Have you got Avete una tavola ah-veh-teh oona le seppie leh sep-pee-eh cuttlefish
a table for …? per … ? tah-voh-lah pair …? secco sek-koh dry
I’d like to Vorrei riservare vor-ray ree-sair-vah- la sogliola lah soll-yoh-lah sole
reserve a table. una tavola. reh oona tah-voh-lah i spinaci ee spee-nah-chee spinach
breakfast colazione koh-lah-tsee-oh-neh succo d’arancia/ soo-koh orange/lemon
lunch pranzo pran-tsoh di limone dah-ran-chah/ juice
dinner cena cheh-nah dee lee-moh-neh
The bill, Il conto, per eel kon-toh pair il tè eel teh tea
please. favore. fah-vor-eh la tisana lah tee-zah-nah herbal tea
I am a vegetarian. Sono vegetariano/a. soh-noh veh-jeh-tar- il tonno eel ton-noh tuna
ee-ah-noh/nah la torta lah tor-tah cake/tart
waitress cameriera kah-mair-ee-air-ah l’uovo loo-oh-voh egg
waiter cameriere kah-mair-ee-air-eh vino bianco vee-noh bee-ang-koh white wine
fixed price il menù a eel meh-noo ah
menu prezzo fisso pret-soh fee-soh vino rosso vee-noh ross-oh red wine
dish of the day piatto del giorno pee-ah-toh dell jor-no il vitello eel vee-tell-oh veal
starter antipasto an-tee-pass-toh le vongole leh von-goh-leh clams
loh zoo-kair-oh
lo zucchero
sugar
first course il primo eel pree-moh gli zucchini lyee dzu-kee-nee
main course il secondo eel seh-kon-doh courgettes
vegetables il contorno eel kon-tor-noh la zuppa lah tsoo-pah soup
dessert il dolce eel doll-cheh Numbers
cover charge il coperto eel koh-pair-toh
wine list la lista dei lah lee-stah day 1 uno oo-noh
vini vee-nee 2 due doo-eh
rare al sangue al sang-gweh 3 tre treh
medium al puntino al poon-tee-noh 4 quattro kwat-roh
well done ben cotto ben kot-toh 5 cinque ching-kweh
glass il bicchiere eel bee-kee-air-eh 6 sei say-ee
bottle la bottiglia lah bot-teel-yah 7 sette set-teh
knife il coltello eel kol-tell-oh 8 otto ot-toh
fork la forchetta lah for-ket-tah 9 nove noh-veh
spoon il cucchiaio eel koo-kee-eye-oh 10 dieci dee-eh-chee
11 undici oon-dee-chee
Menu Decoder 12 dodici doh-dee-chee
l’acqua minerale lah-kwah mee-nair- mineral water 13 tredici tray-dee-chee
gassata/naturale ah-leh gah-zah-tah/ fizzy/still 14 quattordici kwat-tor-dee-chee
nah-too-rah-leh 15 quindici kwin-dee-chee
agnello ah-niell-oh lamb 16 sedici say-dee-chee
aceto ah-cheh-toh vinegar 17 diciassette dee-chah-set-teh
aglio al-ee-oh garlic 18 diciotto dee-chot-toh
al forno al for-noh baked 19 diciannove dee-chah-noh-veh
alla griglia ah-lah greel-yah grilled 20 venti ven-tee
l’aragosta lah-rah-goss-tah lobster 30 trenta tren-tah
arrosto ar-ross-toh roast 40 quaranta kwah-ran-tah
la birra lah beer-rah beer 50 cinquanta ching-kwan-tah
la bistecca lah bee-stek-kah steak 60 sessanta sess-an-tah
il brodo eel broh-doh broth 70 settanta set-tan-tah
il burro eel boor-oh butter 80 ottanta ot-tan-tah
il caffè eel kah-feh coffee 90 novanta noh-van-tah
i calamari ee kah-lah-mah-ree squid 100 cento chen-toh
i carciofi ee kar-choff-ee artichokes 1,000 mille mee-leh
la carne la kar-neh meat 2,000 duemila doo-eh mee-lah
carne di kar-neh dee pork 5,000 cinquemila ching-kweh mee-lah
maiale mah-yah-leh
la cipolla la chip-oh-lah onion 1,000,000 un milione oon meel-yoh-neh
i contorni ee kon-tor-nee vegetables Time
i fagioli ee fah-joh-lee beans
il fegato eel fay-gah-toh liver one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
il finocchio eel fee-nok-ee-oh fennel one hour un’ora oon or-ah
il formaggio eel for-mad-joh cheese half an hour mezz’ora medz-or-ah
le fragole leh frah-goh-leh strawberries a day un giorno oon jor-noh
il fritto misto eel free-toh mees-toh mixed fried dish a week una settimana oona set-tee-mah-nah
la frutta la froot-tah fruit Monday lunedì loo-neh-dee
frutti di mare froo-tee dee mah-reh seafood Tuesday martedì mar-teh-dee
i funghi ee foon-ghee mushrooms Wednesday mercoledì mair-koh-leh-dee
i gamberi ee gam-bair-ee prawns Thursday giovedì joh-veh-dee
il gelato eel jel-lah-toh ice cream Friday venerdì ven-air-dee
l’insalata leen-sah-lah-tah salad Saturday sabato sah-bah-toh
il latte eel laht-teh milk Sunday domenica doh-meh-nee-kah
alternatives for a female speaker are shown in brackets
223-224_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 224 09/09/16 10:48 am