(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  149


q Pietra Ligure Environs
Just inland, high up above Pietra
Savona. Road Map B4.
* 9,400. V @ n Piazza Ligure, is the village of Giustenice,
Martin Liberté 31, 019 629 003. from where there are superb
_ Processione di San Nicolò views over the coast. This former
(8 Jul); Confoëgu (24 Dec). Del Carretto stronghold lost its
∑ turismoinliguria.it castle in the 15th century.
The name of this delightful w Loano
beach resort translates as Savona. Road Map B4. * 11,000.
“Ligurian stone” and derives V @ n Corso Europa 19, 019
Piazza Sant’Agostino in Borgio Verezzi from the rocky outcrop to 676 007. _ Carnevalöa, Liguria’s
the northeast of the old town, largest carnival (in summer).
0 Borgio Verezzi where a fortified site stood in ∑ turismoinliguria.it
the Byzantine era. The medieval ∑ cai.loano.com (for up-to-date
Savona. Road Map C4. * 2,200.
V @ n Via Matteotti 158, 019 town grew up around the base information about walks in the
610 412 (seasonal). _ open-air of the castello, a Genoese Loano and Finalese areas).
and classic theatre seasons (summer) stronghold that underwent
∑ festivalverezzi.it alterations in the 16th century, Ever since Roman times, Loano
∑ comuneborgioverezzi.it and again in later centuries. The has been a desirable place to
so-called Borgo Vecchio was live. It has been the property
This town is formed by the planned on a regular layout of, among others, the bishops
two distinct centres of Borgio, with five streets running parallel of Albenga, the Doria family and
on the coast, and Verezzi, on to the coastline. Strolling along the Republic of Genoa. (It was
the slope above. The medieval these streets today, visitors will also the site of Napoleon’s first
heart of Borgio has remained notice how both medieval victory in Italy.) These days
virtually intact: old cobbled houses and 16–17th century Loano is an extremely pleasant
streets alternate with gardens palazzi rub shoulders, an town with an extensive beach.
and orchards, rising up to the unusual architectural combi- The most interesting building
17th-century parish church of nation that resulted from a is the 16th-century Palazzo
San Pietro. Near the cemetery programme of partial recon- Comunale, built for the Doria
is the pretty medieval church struction in the 16th century. family. Its austere appearance
of Santo Stefano, with a bell The 10th-century Oratorio is softened by balconies and
tower built of decorative brick. dei Bianchi stands in Piazza loggias, while a gallery links
A winding scenic road leads Vecchia (also known as Piazza it to a watch tower (1602) that
up to Verezzi. Of the four groups del Mercato). In the bell tower features a beautiful Roman
of houses that make up the is the “holy bronze” – according mosaic pavement.
village, all on different levels, the to local legend, the bell rang in In 1603, the Doria family
best preserved is Piazza, which 1525 to announce the end of founded the Convento di Monte
still displays some Saracen the plague. In Piazza XX Settembre, Carmelo, in a lovely spot in the
influence. At the centre stands not far from the sea, stands the hills above Loano. The complex
the church of Sant’Agostino 18th-century church of San includes a church full of Doria
(1626). There is a view over the Nicolò di Bari, its façade flanked tombs and the Casotto, a
sea from one side of the pretty by two bell towers. favourite Doria residence.
church square.
Environs
Inside the limestone caves
of the nearby Grotte di
Valdemino are magical
undergrounds lakes and
stalactites so slim that they
vibrate at the sound of a voice.
Fossils of saber-tooth tigers,
cave bears and elephants
have been discovered here.
} Grotte di Valdemino
Via Battorezza. Tel 019 610 150. 8
Jun–Sep: 9:30am, 10:30am, 11:30am,
3:20pm, 4:20pm, 5:20pm; Oct–May:
9:30am, 10:30am, 11:30am, 3pm, 4pm,
5pm. Closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan.
& with permission.
The medieval castle dominating Pietra Ligure




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150  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

e Grotte di Toirano

These caves, a real wonder of nature, are among the most
beautiful in Italy. They are situated in the karst area of the Val
Varatella, between Albenga and Pietra Ligure. Discovered by
young researchers and speleologists from Toirano in 1950,
these subterranean caves, full of broad caverns, stalactites and
stalagmites of all sizes, and rare crystal formations, are reminis­
cent of images of hell. Of prime importance is the beautiful
Grotta della Bàsura (“Cave of the Witch” in Ligurian dialect),
where traces of Palaeolithic man and also the extinct cave bear . Sala dei Misteri
have been found. The caves are also the habitat of a small Traces of prehistoric man are
still visible here. The balls of clay
crawfish (“Niphargus”), while the largest ocellated lizards in hurled at the cave walls were
Europe can also be seen near the caves. The site, which is about probably due to propitiatory
1 km (half a mile) in length, can be toured in around 90 minutes, rites or hunting
is one of the greatest attractions of the western Riviera. ceremonies. The
Sala dei Misteri is
currently closed
Sala Morelli to the public.
The route within the Grotta
della Bàsura starts in this
room. A little further ahead
is the Torre di Pisa (left), an
impressive central stalagmite
formed when water ceased
to flow on the cave floor.













KEY
1 In the Bear Cemetery visitors
can see footprints of Ursus spelaeus
(cave bear).
2 Grotta della Bàsura
3 The Antro di Cibele offers the
extremely rare spectacle of rounded
concretions, spherical even, which
have been shaped by rhythmical Entrance
but continuous fluctuations in the
water level.
4 In the Corridoio delle Colonne . Salotto
evidence of ancient earthquakes can Venturing further into the
be seen in the fracture lines which cave system, visitors reach
split numerous formations in half. the area known as the
5 Grotta di Santa Lucia Inferiore Salotto (“drawing room”).
Here, stalactites, stalag-
6 Grotta di Santa Lucia Superiore mites and wall concretions
(open only on 13 December for create a truly fairytale
patron saint’s day). environment, mirrored in
7 Grotta del Colombo (closed the waters of an under-
to the public). ground pool, with light
playing off the surfaces.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  151


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Toirano (Savona).
Road Map B4.
Tel 0182 980 62.
n Piazzale Grotte, Toirano.
∑ toirano.it
∑ toiranogrotte.it
Caves and Museo Etnografico
Toirano: Open Oct–Jun: 9:30am–
12:30pm, 2–5pm; Jul, Aug: 9:30am–
12:30pm, 2–5:30pm. Night
excursions: 9pm Thu (book
Sala del Pantheon ahead). & 8 - h
This cavern contains a stalagmite which
reaches the great height of 8m (26 ft) and Transport
@
which, in its vast scale and visual impact,
evokes images of Dante’s Inferno. Aragonite
flowers cover it like a light dusting of sugar
on a biscuit.














. Grotta di Santa
Lucia Inferiore
This cave shows no human or
animal traces but contains
beautiful and rare crystallized
deposits, including these
aragonite flowers.



















The Landscape
Toirano is in the high Val Varatella, characterized by steep-
sided walls of karst rock. There are lovely views of the
landscape from the road leading to the caves.




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152  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

r Street-by-Street: Albenga

In the province of Savona, Albenga is one of the Riviera di
Ponente’s most important cities. It owes its fame not only to its Porta Molino
historic centre, one of the best-preserved in Liguria, but also to is the largest of
the mildness of its climate and the fertility of the surrounding the gates in the
city walls.
plain, which has been under cultivation since the Roman era
and produces a wide range of fruit and
vegetables. The Roman town of Albingaunum
was founded on the site of a port built by the
Ingauni, a Ligurian tribe. For centuries,
Albenga’s prosperity depended on the River
Centa, but its role as a major sea power
declined after Genoa asserted itself, and
after the port silted up. A long avenue
links the old city to the coast, now a V I A T O R L A R O
short distance away. O
R
O
’
D
Porta Torlaro E
A solid bastion L I
called Il Torracco, P I A Z Z A R O S S I G
once used as a D A
prison, projects E
from the M
northwest E
corner of the city L L
wall. Alongside is E VIA B. RICCI
DOMENICO
17th-century D
Porta Torlaro. PIAZZA SAN V I A
Lengueglia Doria Tower and V I A C A V O U R
House lie at the end of Via Ricci. PIAZZA SAN MICHELE
The tower dates from the 13th
century, while the brickwork house
was built in the 15th century. V I A R O M A


Via Bernardo Ricci,
lined with intact or
restored medieval
houses, is Albenga’s
most picturesque
long street. In the
Roman era it formed
part of the main road,
or decumanus
maximus, as did its
continuation, Via
Enrico d’Aste.

Loggia dei Quattro Canti
Set at the corner of Via Ricci and Via
Medaglie d’Oro, this loggia features one . Baptistry
rounded arch and one ogival arch and dates This is the only example of late Roman
from the transitional period between the architecture left intact in Albenga. Built
Romanesque and Gothic styles. In the by the general Costanzo in the early 5th
Middle Ages, it served to increase visibility century, the baptistry is the foremost
and ease the traffic flow at the crossroads. Early Christian monument in Liguria.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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ALBENGA  153


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Savona.
Road Map B4. * 23,000.
n Piazza del Popolo, 0182 558
444. ∑ turismoinliguria.it
∑ albenga.net
_ Procession in medieval
. Piazza dei Leoni costume (4 Jul); Mestieranda,
This square, the most charming spot in the city, is ancient crafts market (mid-Jul);
named after three stone lions (leoni) which were Sagra del Pigato (early Sep); crafts
brought here from Rome in 1608 by the local market (every 4th Sat of month
counts, Costa. Medieval houses overlook the Mar–Oct).
piazza, one side of which is formed by the apse
of the cathedral. Transport
V @







V I CO A P. Z A S . F R A N C E S CO

PIAZZA DEI
LEONI

PIAZZA SAN
FRANCESCO
. Cathedral
PIAZZA SAN MICHELE V I A E N R I C O D ’ A S T E the Baptistry), the cathedral is
Rebuilt in the Middle Ages on
PIAZZA IV
the site of an early Christian
NOVEMBRE
basilica (from the same era as
dedicated to St Michael. The
fine bell tower dates from
the late Gothic period.
P I A Z Z A
D  E R B E
L ARGO
DORIA
0 metres 50
0 yards 50






V I A S A N T A E U L A L L I A
Santa Maria in
Fontibus
This church on Via
Enrico d’Aste has
medieval origins but
Key was remodelled in
1600. The façade has
Suggested route a 14th-century
stone door.




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154  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Albenga

In the old heart of Albenga, with its superb collection of
medieval piazzas, palazzi and churches, the streets are set
at intersecting right angles, reflecting the grid layout of the
castrum (or military camp) of the early Roman town. With
its plethora of red-brick tower-houses – some still standing
proud, some now much reduced, and many now restored –
the historic centre of Albenga is utterly delightful. This rare
example of a medieval city built on Roman foundations is
undoubtedly one of the top places to visit in the whole of
Liguria and should not be missed. There are two excellent Medieval fresco in the loggia
of Palazzo Vecchio del Comune
museums, the Museo Navale Romano and the Civico Museo
Ingauno, but a stroll along Via Enrico d’Aste, Via Bernardo in the central nave, an
Ricci and Via Medaglie d’Oro is sufficient to appreciate the enormous 19th-century organ
beauty of the place. and the Carolingian crypt.
P Palazzo Vecchio
del Comune
Via Nino Lamboglia 1. Civico Museo
Ingauno: Tel 0182 512 15. Open winter:
10am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun;
summer: 9:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–
7:30pm Tue–Sun. & =
This building dates from the
early 14th century and, with
the contemporaneous Torre
Comunale, forms a truly
impressive medieval complex.
The cathedral tower, the Torre
Comunale and the tower of
Roman amphorae at the Museo Navale in Palazzo Peloso Cepolla the Palazzo Vecchio itself are
known as “Preghiera” (prayer),
P Palazzo Peloso Cepolla R Cathedral of San Michele “Governo” (government) and
Piazza San Michele. Museo Navale Piazza San Michele. “Giustizia” (justice), respectively.
Romano: Tel 0182 512 15. Open winter: Open 7:30am–8pm daily. The side of the palazzo
10am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun; Overlooking Albenga’s lovely facing Via Ricci has the great
summer: 9.30am–12:30pm, 3:30– main square, the cathedral is Loggia Comunale (1421), built
7:30pm Tue–Sun. & = the old seat of both civil and of brick and with sturdy round
Originally made up of several religious authority. It has been pillars supporting the heavy
buildings – the medieval part remodelled several times since arches. On the rear façade, facing
of the palazzo came to light its construction in the Middle the Baptistry, are decorative
only recently – the Palazzo Ages (on the site of an Early Ghibelline (swallowtail) battle-
Peloso Cepolla was unified Christian church), but ments and a steep double stair-
in a single late-Renaissance remnants of the case. At the top of the tower
build ing in the 17th century. Romanesque building is a big bell known as the
The building is dominated survive – including blind campanone, cast in 1303.
by a Romanesque tower. arches in the lower part of The Palazzo Vecchio
The palazzo is home to the the façade, and elements del Comune houses the
Museo Navale Romano. Its of the apse. The fine bell Civico Museo Ingauno,
most important finds include tower, rebuilt in the late with finds from around
more than 1,000 amphorae, 14th century, is Gothic, but Albenga, dating from the
vases and other objects found its base of large stone blocks pre-Roman era to the
on board the wreck of a Roman is Romanesque. Middle Ages. Objects
ship which sank off the coast of The interior was returned include mosaics, tomb-
Albenga in the 1st century BC. to its simple 13th-century stones, sculptures and
Pharmacy jars from the form by restoration work Roman ceramics. Visitors
hospital of Albenga, dating carried out in the 1960s. should continue right
from between 1500 and 1700, High lights inside include to the top floor,
are made of the white and blue a fresco of the Crucifixion Decoration on from where there
pottery typical of Savona with Saints (1500), the the façade of the is a lovely view of
and Albisola. 19th-century frescoes cathedral the city.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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ALBENGA  155


R Baptistry Isola Gallinara
Piazza San Michele. Open combined
ticket with the Museo Ingauno. Riserva Naturale Regionale dell’Isola Gallinara. Tel 0182 541 351 (comune di
Albenga’s most important Albenga). ∑ parks.it
monument is also the only
remaining evidence of the Early This island lies just off the coast between Albenga and Alassio.
Christian era in the whole of Its name derives from the hundreds of wild hens (galline) that
Liguria. It is thought to have used to be resident here. It was also once inhabited by hermit
been founded by Constantius, monks: St Martin of Tours found refuge here in the 4th century
general to the emperor Honorius, and Benedictine monks later founded an abbey, which was
in the 5th century. Restoration destroyed in the late 15th century – its ruins are still visible. At the
work completed in the 20th top of the island stands the Torre di Vedetta, a tower built by the
century returned the building Republic of Genoa in the 16th century. Isola Gallinara is now a
to its original appearance. nature reserve and cannot be visited. Boat trips (including those
Unusually, the Baptistry for diving) leave from Alassio.
takes the form of an irregular
decagon outside, and a regular
octagon inside. There is a niche
in each of these eight sides,
with columns of Corsican
granite topped by Corinthian
capitals supporting the arches
above. The entrance to the
Baptistry is through one of
these niches, while others Isola Gallinara
function as windows – two of
the latter feature beautiful
sandstone transennas. In another R Palazzo Vescovile admire precious church
niche, part of its original blue- Piazza San Michele. furnish ings, illuminated
and-white mosaic decoration Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra: manuscripts, Flemish tapestries,
is still visible. Tel 0182 502 88. Open 10am–noon, silverware and some fine works
On the altar niche is Trinity and 3–6pm Tue–Sun. & of art, including Martyrdom of
the apostles, a 5th–6th century This palazzo, whose principal St Catherine by Guido Reni,
mosaic in Byzantine style; in façade faces the Baptistry, is an Last Supper by Domenico
another is a Roman-esque fresco assembly of medieval buildings, Piola and Annunciation by
of the Baptism of Christ. The rebuilt in the 16th century. The Domenico Fiasella, all painted
Baptistry also contains some oldest wing, to the far right, in the 17th century.
interesting medieval tombs with dates from around 1000, while
Lombard-style reliefs. At the a 12th-century tower rises from Environs
centre is an octagonal font for the left-hand corner. On Via A short distance south of
total immersion baptisms, with Ricci, typically Genoese black- Albenga, interesting archae-
traces of 5th-century frescoes. and-white striped decoration, ological ruins of the Roman
The cupola dates from the dating from the 15th century, town of Albingaunum can be
19th century. Its predecessor, is still visible. seen, including an amphitheatre,
possibly the original, was dis- The Palazzo Vescovile is now aqueduct, various other buildings
mantled prior to that, probably home to the Museo Diocesano and a funerary monument
in error. d’Arte Sacra, where visitors can known as “il Pilone”. There are
also traces of a Roman road,
thought to have been part of
the Via Julia Augusta (see p148).
Around 10 km (6 miles) west of
the city, Villanova d’Albenga
(close to the inter national airport)
is well worth a visit. This fortified
settlement, laid out in the 13th
century to provide extra protec-
tion for Albenga, has a polygonal
layout and outer walls reinforced
with square towers. The alleys
through the town are full of
atmosphere and the scent of the
abundant flowers that the locals
use to adorn their windows
The interior of the Baptistry, with the remains of a font at its centre and doorways.




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156  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


here, narrow streets known A round tower, known as the
locally as esci fan out, leading to Torrione circolare (1564), the
the seafront. only bastion remaining of three
At the corner of Via Dante which once protected Laigueglia
and Via Cavour, Caffè Roma from pirates, is the oldest building
has been a popular meeting in the village.
place since the 1930s. In the The church of San Matteo
1950s, the café’s owner had the has two bell towers with
idea of making ceramic tiles bright, majolica-covered
out of the autographs of its cupolas, a delightful example
famous visitors to hang on the of Ligurian Baroque.
wall of the garden opposite. On the ridge between
The Muretto now bears the Laigueglia and Andora is Colla
signatures of many famous Micheri, a hamlet whose houses
personalities, including Ernest were restored and made into
Hemingway, Jean Cocteau and a home by Thor Heyerdahl,
The famous “Muretto” of Alassio, in front Dario Fo. the Norwegian navigator and
of Caffè Roma Alassio’s most signficant ethnologist famous for his epic
monument is the parish church journey by raft from Peru to
t Alassio of Sant’Ambrogio. Founded in Polynesia in 1958. He died
the 1400s, it has a 19th-century here in 2002.
Savona. Road Map B4. * 11,300.
V @ n Piazza della Libertà 5, 0182 façade, an early 16th-century bell
647 027. _ Election of “Miss Muretto” tower and a Baroque interior.
(late Aug); Premio Alassio Centolibri,
a literature prize (summer). Environs
∑ turismoinliguria.it From Alassio, there is a
∑ comune.alassio.sv.it lovely (but steep)
panoramic walk along
A beach of beautifully fine sand, the route of an old
which extends for some 4 km Roman road – the start
(2 miles) and slopes almost of an archaeological walk
imperceptibly down to the sea, that runs all the way to
makes Alassio the undisputed Albenga. In 45 minutes
queen of the Riviera delle Palme. visitors can reach Capo
In the 19th century, it became Santa Croce, where a Santi Giacomo e Filippo church, Andora
a favourite holiday destination small 13th-century
among the English, who came church of the same name y Andora
here and built splendid villas overlooks the sea. Savona. Road Map B4. * 6,500. V
with gardens. Many of these, At the southern end of the @ n Largo Milano, 0182 681 004.
including some Art Nouveau bay of Alassio lies Laigueglia, _ Estate Musicale Andorese, festival
gems, have since been turned a civilized seaside resort with a of classical music in church of Santi
into hotels. well-preserved and picturesque Giacomo e Filippo (Jul & Aug).
Local legend has it that old centre. Of Roman origin, it ∑ turismoinliguria.it
the town’s name derives from became an important centre for ∑ comune.andora.sv.it
Adelasia, daughter of Holy coral fishing in the 16th century.
Roman Emperor Otto I of Saxony, Andora is the last coastal town
who came here in the 10th at the western end of the Riviera
century. Alassio is still very delle Palme and groups
popular with German visitors together several communities,
today. Originally a fishing village, including Marina di Andora on
in the Middle Ages it became the coast. Founded perhaps by
the property of Albenga and, the Phocaeans, from Asia Minor,
later, of Genoa. The Roman road, several centuries BC, Andora
Via Aurelia still passes through it. later belonged to the Romans,
The typically Ligurian who built a bridge over the River
character of Alassio can be seen Merula. The ten-arched Ponte
in the long carruggio (narrow Romano visible today dates, in
street) that runs parallel with fact, from the Middle Ages. The
the sea, hemmed in by 16th– old Roman road leads up to the
17th-century houses and modern ruins of Andora Castello, which
shops. This street is Via XX is in a lovely spot at the top of
Settembre, known as the the hill.
“Budello”, and is the heart of the Colourful boats near the round tower Built by the Marchesi di
town’s commercial life. From in Laigueglia Clavesana in around 1000, this
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  157


fortified complex must have The latter contains a St John the
been impressive in its heyday. Baptist, a 17th-century work in
Through the castle gate is the multicoloured wood by Poggio,
church of Santi Giacomo e and an 18th-century Crucifixion
Filippo, founded in 1100 and attributed to Maragliano.
once part of the castle’s defences. Also in the town there are
Built entirely out of stone from several interesting 17th- and 18th-
nearby Capo Mele, the façade is century palazzi. These include
adorned with Gothic cornices Palazzo Morchio, now the town
and arches. Inside, there are hall, and Palazzo Viale, which
round columns and octagonal has 18th-century porticoes.
pilasters of bare stone.
Another church within the E Museo Etnografico del
castle, San Nicolò, is of proto- Ponente Ligure The striking arched porticoes on
Romanesque origins. Piazza Santa Caterina 2. Tel 0183 408 Corso Ponzoni
197. Open 9am–12:30pm, 3–7pm
daily (Jul & Aug: 4:30–10pm). of the arcaded and typically
u Cervo medieval Corso Ponzoni – the
heart of the town. On either
Imperia. Road Map B5. * 1,300. i Pieve di Teco
V @ n IAT, Piazza Santa side, craft workshops alternate
Caterina 2, 0183 408 197. _ Festival Imperia. Road Map B4. * 1,450. with the palazzi of well-to-do
Internazionale di Musica da Camera, V Imperia Oneglia. @ n Piazza families. The oldest part of Pieve
chamber music festival (nine evenings Brunengo 1, 0183 364 53. di Teco is focused around the
Jul & Aug). ∑ turismoinliguria.it _ Mercatino dell’Antiquariato e 15th-century church of Santa
dell’Artigianato, antiques and craft Maria della Ripa.
This village, perched on a hill market (last Sun of month). Also of interest is the late
between Capo Cervo and the 18th-century collegiate church
mouth of the River Cervo, Heading inland, almost as far of San Giovanni Battista, which
signals the beginning of the as the border with Piemonte, contains several impor tant
province of Imperia. Once visitors reach the busy market paintings, including St Francis
the property of the Del Carretto town of Pieve di Teco. Founded de Pauul attributed to Luca
and then the Doria families, in 1293, the town belonged, like Cambiaso (16th century), and
from the 14th century Cervo many others in the area, to Last Supper by Domenico Piola
came under Genoese the Marchesi di Clavesana and (17th century).
domination and followed subsequently (from the late The 15th-century Convento
that city’s fortunes. 14th century) to Genoa. degli Agostiniani has the
Nowadays, Cervo is an The town is known for its largest cloister (which is also
extremely pretty resort, with handmade walking boots, as one of the prettiest) in the
houses painted in white and well as its small but excellent whole region.
pale shades of yellow, and antiques market held on the Not far from the town, a lovely
overlooking a shingle beach. last Sunday of the month. medieval hump-backed bridge
Dominating the village is a Two squares mark either end straddles the River Arroscia.
12th-century castello, which
belonged to the Marchesi di
Clavesana and was a control
point along the Via Aurelia in
the Middle Ages. The site is
now occupied by the Museo
Etnografico del Ponente
Ligure, which features recon-
structions of life at sea and on
land, together with original
rooms from a local house.
Facing the sea is the attractive
parish church of San Giovanni
Battista, with its distinctive
concave, stucco-embellished
façade that features a stag
(cervo in Italian). Begun in 1686,
it is a fine example of Ligurian
Baroque. The bell tower and the
interior, which is decorated with
frescoes and stuccoes, both
date from the 18th century. The medieval bridge over the Arroscia, close to Pieve di Teco




156-157_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 157 09/09/16 10:48 am

158  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

o Imperia – Oneglia of the same name, right at the
heart of Oneglia’s shopping
One of four provincial capitals in Liguria, Imperia lies at the district. It was built from 1739–
centre of the coastal strip known as the Riviera dei Fiori. It 62 in late Baroque style, though
consists of the two centres of Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, the façade was finished only in
united in 1923 by Mussolini. People often say that he chose 1838. The fresco decoration
inside also dates from the
the name Imperia out of arrogance, but it derives from the 19th century.
River Impero, which divides the two centres. Historically Look out for the marble
rivals, the two cities seem to share as little as possible (there tabernacle (to the left of the
are two harbours, two railway stations, even two dialects). presbytery), which dates from
Imperia is fascinating because of its split personality. 1516 and is attributed to the
Gagini school. Various saints are
represented here and, in the
The name Oneglia probably activity in Oneglia. In the summer lunette, Christ arising from the
derives from a plantation of (from mid-June to mid- Tomb. Also of interest are the
elms (olmi), on which the town September), look out for wooden choir stalls; the
was originally built. Oneglia boats offering to take lovely Madonna del Rosario
was recorded in documents guests out to sea to (in the first chapel in the
as far back as 935, when it was watch whales and left-hand aisle), attributed
destroyed by the Saracens. From dolphins – a to the school of the
the 11th century it was owned great experience. 18th-century sculptor
by the bishops of Albenga, but Maragliano; and St Clare
they sold it to the Doria family P Calata Giovan drives out the Saracens
in 1298. (The great admiral, Battista Cuneo (1681), a moving work
Andrea Doria, was born here This characteristic quay painted by Gregorio De
in 1466.) The House of Savoy building faces the Ferrari, a native of
claimed ownership for a time, harbour, its traditional The Madonna del Porto Maurizio, though
but Oneglia, along with Porto arcades perfectly Rosario he spent much of his
Maurizio, passed into the hands designed to shelter time in Genoa.
of the Genoese republic in 1746. fishmongers, trattorias and
The House of Savoy returned in fishermen’s houses. When the P Chiesa di San Biagio
1814, and made Oneglia the boats of Oneglia’s fishing fleet Piazza Ulisse Calvi.
provincial capital. In 1887, an return from their trips out on the Tel 0183 292 747.
earthquake caused severe open sea, an auction of fresh Open 7–11:30am, 4–6pm daily.
damage to the town. fish is held here, usually around This church, dated 1740, has
the middle of the afternoon. a plain façade and a Baroque bell
The Port The fish trade is vital to the tower. The spacious, light-filled
East of the mouth of the River local economy. The local bars interior is shaped, curiously, in an
Impero, the port of Oneglia (Porto and restaurants are always oval and ends in a choir.
di Levante) is dedicated largely to entertaining places in which The church contains various
commercial trade, in particular to pass the time. works of art, among them Gloria
the trade in olive oil (the town has di San Biagio (Glory of St Blaise)
a museum devoted to olive oil). R Collegiata di by Bocciardo, visible in the apse,
There is also a vast pasta factory San Giovanni Battista and a wooden Crucifixion by the
on the seafront. The port, whose Piazza San Giovanni. Tel 0183 292 671. school of Maragliano on the
appearance dates mainly from Open 8am–noon, 3–7pm daily. right-hand altar.
the Savoy period, is the centre of This church stands in the piazza
P Via Bonfante
From Piazza San Giovanni,
the pedestrian street of Via San
Giovanni leads north to Via
Bonfante, Oneglia’s main shop-
ping street. This is a wonderful
place for a stroll, and for soaking
up the atmosphere of the town.
Beneath Via Bonfante’s 19th-
century arcades visitors will
find all manner of art galleries
and shops (including several
designer boutiques), as well
as cafés that manage to
tempt even the hardiest of
The multicoloured, arcaded houses of Calata Giovan Battista Cuneo passers-by inside.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


158-159_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 158 09/09/16 10:44 am

IMPERIA  159


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B5. * 40,400.
n Porto Maurizio, Viale Matteotti
37, 0183 660 140. _ Infiorata
del Corpus Domini, Raduno
Internazionale di Vele d’Epoca,
a gathering of historic boats
(Sep, even years only).
∑ visitrivieradeifiore.it
Transport
V @

for transportation. The main
section, complete with audio-
visual aids, is dedicated to
Piazza Dante, at the heart of Oneglia explaining the production of
olive oil: on display are all sorts
P Piazza Dante the Museo dell’Olivo was of mills, presses, machines for
At the end of Via Bonfante is the opened by the Fratelli Carli, filtering oil, and containers for
central Piazza Dante. This is the owners of just one of the many storing and for transporting it.
real heart of Oneglia, also known local producers of olive oil that The visit concludes with
locally as the “Piazza della compete for market share in a visit to an oil mill that is still
Fontana” (square of the fountain). the region. being used by the Fratelli
A busy crossroads, the One part of the museum Carli company.
piazza is surrounded by neo- traces the history of olive
medieval palazzi. Among the cultivation, starting with the
most interesting of these is Roman period, when the oil
the ex-Palazzo Comunale, at was used more for medical
no. 4, built in the 1890s in an and cosmetic purposes than
eclectic mix of styles. as a food; small bottles, used
to store oil as perfume or
E Museo dell’Olivo medicine, are on display. There
Via Garessio 11. Tel 0183 295 762. is also a reconstruction of the
Open 9am–12:30pm, 3–6pm Mon– hold of a Roman ship, which
Sat. & 7 ∑ museodellolivo.com shows how amphorae full of Reconstruction of the hold in a Roman ship
Housed in an old olive oil mill, olive oil were stacked ready with its cargo of oil


Oneglia Town Centre Museo
dell’Olivo
1 The Port V. GARESSIO
2 Calata Giovan Battista Cuneo Imperia Oneglia
Train Station
3 Collegiata di San
VIA
Giovanni Battista VIA G. BERIO VIA DON ABBO BRESCA
4 Chiesa di San Biagio VIA VIVAL D I VI A N IC O LÒ BER I O
5 Via Bonfante PIAZZA VI A I N G E G N E R G I A C O M O A G N E S I
PIAZZA ROSSINI
6 Piazza Dante PORTO DANTE
7 Museo dell’Olivo MAURIZIO VIA BONFANTE
VIA A L FIE R I Collegiata di San PIAZZA Chiesa di
San Biagio
VIA D E S ONNA Z Giovanni Battista V. PALESTRO PIAZZA
CALVI VIA AMENDOLA
VIA DES GENEYS VI A DOR IA BIXIO
C AL ATA G. B . C U NEO
VIA C. DE MAGNY Battista Cuneo Port
V. SCHIVA
Calata Giovan
Impero
0 metres 300 B A N C H I NA G. SC H I A V ON
Porto di
0 yards 300 Levante
O R M EGGI M O LO
LU NGO
For map symbols see back flap
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160  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


Imperia – Porto Maurizio In the third chapel on the left,
there is a fine wooden cross by
While Oneglia represents the more modern, commercial the school of Maragliano, while
side of Imperia, Porto Maurizio is its old heart, with its long the second chapel on the right
porticoes, 16th-century bastions and Baroque churches. contains a statue of the
The quarter of Parasio, the medieval part of the town with Madonna della Misericordia,
(1618), which also came from
narrow alleys in typically Ligurian style, is focused around the the demolished San Maurizio.
cathedral. The two most important museums in Imperia are
also found here. Porto Maurizio has two coastal districts, E Pinacoteca Civica
known as Borgo Foce and Borgo Marino. Piazza del Duomo. Tel 0183 60847.
Open 4–7pm Wed & Sat (also
9–11pm in Jul & Aug).
The second town Also on Piazza del Duomo is
forming the city of the entrance to the Pinacoteca
Imperia has a history Civica, the municipal art gallery.
that is very similar to, On display here are collections
and yet different from, derived from legacies and
that of Oneglia. Porto various donations, but exhibi-
Maurizio, on the west tions of local work are held
side of the mouth of here, too.
the River Impero, has Works by Barabino, Rayper,
retained more traces of Frascheri and Semino, among
its earlier history than others, form part of the Rebaudi
Oneglia, which collection, which includes
developed primarily 19th-century Ligurian and
in the 18th and 19th Genoese works.
centuries. Indeed, its
Centro Storico, largely E Museo Navale
a monument to the Internazionale del
Genoese golden age, Ponente Ligure
remains almost intact. Piazza del Duomo 11. Tel 0183 651
Porto Maurizio fell The interior of Porto Maurizio’s Duomo 541. Open summer: 9am–11pm Wed
into Genoese hands in & Sat; winter: 3:30–7:30pm Wed, 4:30–
1797, and in 1805 was annexed, should come as no surprise 7:30pm Sat.
along with Genoa, to France that this is the largest church Imperia’s naval museum is
during the Napoleonic era. in Liguria. It was built between one of the most interesting
Restored to the Ligurian 1781 and 1838 by Gaetano institutions in the city, not to be
Republic in 1814, it was united Cantoni in Neo-Classical style missed by anyone with an
for the first time with Oneglia to replace the old parish church interest in seafaring, though
as part of the Kingdom of of San Maurizio, which had the exhibition space is
Sardinia, and in 1860 was been demolished. somewhat cramped.
absorbed into the Kingdom The impressive façade The museum is subdivided
of Piemonte, under whose features eight Doric columns, into various sections and
rule it remained until union culminating in a drum flanked includes dioramas and models
with Oneglia in 1923. by two solid bell towers, which of ships. The majority of visitors
form a portico. A lantern most enjoy the section that
The Port crowns the great cupola. deals with life on board
Also known as the Porto di Beneath the portico are ship. There are also
Ponente (to distinguish it from statues that once displays of various
Oneglia’s Porto di Levante), belonged to the old documents and other
the port is protected by two parish church. mementoes relating
piers. With its floating landing The impressive interior, to the seafaring
stages, the harbour is reserved built on a Greek cross tradition along the
for holiday yachts, and contrasts plan, contains a rich array Riviera di Ponente.
sharply with Oneglia’s of 19th-century canvases
commercial port. and Neo-Classical-style P Parasio
frescoes, the work of The old palace of the
R Duomo painters mostly from Genoese governor was
Piazza del Duomo. Liguria and Piemonte. known in the local dialect
Tel 0183 61901. Open 7:35–11:45am, Highlights among these as “Paraxu” (the Ligurian
2:45–6:45pm daily. include a Predica di San for Palatium, as in
Looking at the majestic bulk of Francesco Saverio, Model of a diving Palatine Hill, in Rome).
the Duomo di San Maurizio, it attributed to De Ferrari. suit, Museo Navale Translated into Italian,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



160-161_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 160 09/09/16 10:44 am

IMPERIA  161


R Convento di Santa Chiara
Via Santa Chiara 9. Tel 0183 62762.
Church: Closed 7am–noon, 3:30–7pm
Mon–Sat (from 9am Sun & hols).
The principal reason to visit
these buildings, which date
from 1300 (modified in the
18th century), is to see the
splendid arcade behind the
convent, from which there is
a fantastic view of the sea,
and which is used to stage
classical concerts in summer.
Inside the church are two
Parasio, the old city, set above Porto Maurizio lovely works of art: San Domenico
Soriano and Madonna, the work
this became Parasio, the name Chiara and the Oratorio di San of Domenico Fiasella, and
now given to Porto Maurizio’s Leonardo. In Via Acquarone, look Madonna with Child and Santa
medieval district. The governor’s out for the striking Palazzo Caterina da Bologna, by
palace was built on the top of Pagliari (1300–1400), with a Sebastiano Conca.
the hill, in Piazza Chiesa Vecchia, portico with ogival arches.
now at the heart of the medie­ R Chiesa di San Pietro
val district and only a short walk R Oratorio di San Salita San Pietro. Tel 0183 60356.
from the Piazza del Duomo, Leonardo Open 6pm Sat for mass.
along Via Acquarone. Via Santa Caterina. This Parasio church stands
After a long period of neglect Tel 018362783. Open 9am–noon, on the same level as a loggia
and decline, Parasio has in 3–7pm. Closed first Mon of the month. overlooking the sea. Founded
recent years been the subject In the southern part of Parasio, in 1100, it was built on the ruins
of an ambitious restoration looking out towards the sea, of the old town walls. A medieval
project, financed mainly by this oratory (1600) is dedicated lookout tower forms the base
foreign investors. to Imperia’s official patron saint. of the round bell tower.
Visitors cannot truly claim Inside is a lovely work, Our Lady The façade, dating from
to have seen Imperia unless of Sorrows and souls in Purgatory, 1789, is lively, with paired
they have strolled around and by Gregorio De Ferrari columns supporting three
climbed these charming and (1647–1726). arches. Inside, a pictorial
steep streets, lined with hand­ St Leonard (1676–1751) cycle on the Life of St Peter is
some palaces and churches, was born in the house that attributed to Tommaso and
including the convent of Santa stands next to the oratory. Maurizio Carrega (late 1700s).

ONEGLIA
Porto Maurizio
Town Centre
1 The Port V I A GIUSEPPE P I R I NOL I
2 Duomo C O R S O V I A
3 Pinacoteca Civica Port
4 Museo Navale Internazionale V. RAMBALDO S C A RI N C I O
del Ponente Ligure BANCHINA MEDAGLIE D’ORO
5 Parasio VIA SAN
6 Oratorio di San Leonardo MAURIZIO
Museo Navale
7 Convento di Santa Chiara Internazionale V I A A U R E LIO SAFFI
8 Chiesa di San Pietro PIAZZA Duomo
DEL
VIA FELI CE C ASCIONE G I U S E P PE GARIBALDI
DUOMO
DOLCEDO Pinacoteca C O R S O G I O VANNI BOINE
VIA SILORATA VIA C. BOTTA V I A FOSSI
BAMABO
Civica
VIA PARASI O
Chiesa di Oratorio di Parasio L i gur ian Sea
San Pietro
C O R S O G I U S E P P E G A R I B A L D I
V IA D E T OMM A S O Santa Chiara San Leonardo 0 metres 300
Convento di
0 yards 300
For map symbols see back flap

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162  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


(village of witches), Triora s Taggia
is famous above all for Imperia. Road Map A5. * 14,000.
the witchcraft trials, held V @ n Via Boselli, Arma di Taggia,
here between 1587 and 0184 437 33. _ Corteo Storico dei
1589. The unique and Rioni (4th Sun in Feb); Festa della
popular Museo Etnografico Maddalena (3rd Sun in Jul); antiques
e della Stregoneria is market (last weekend of month).
devoted to the story of ∑ rivieradeifiori.org ∑ taggia.it
these trials.
The centre of Triora still Lying close to the mouth of
preserves much evidence the Valle Argentina is Taggia,
of the village’s medieval whose 16th-century walls
origins, with little alleys, conceal a fascinating medieval
narrow streets and houses village. One of the most
The church of the Assunta, Triora huddled together around impressive sights is the
small squares. Of seven medieval bridge across the
p Dolcedo original gates, the only survivor Argentina, with 16 arches of
is Porta Soprana, with a which two are Romanesque.
Imperia. Road Map B4–5. * 1,200.
V Imperia. @ n Comune, 0183 rounded arch. Nearby is the Via Soleri, the heart of
280 004. _ La Mongolfiera, Fontana Soprana, the oldest the old centre, is flanked by
traditional country festival (1st fountain in the town. porticoes with black stone
Sun, Sep), organic market (3rd The one sight not to miss arches and many fine old
Sun of month). is the collegiate church of buildings. The Baroque parish
the Assunta. It was originally church of Santi Giacomo e
Situated in the hinterland Romanesque-Gothic and still Filippo is certainly lovely,
behind Porto Maurizio, in retains the old bell tower and but Taggia’s most important
the Prino valley, is Dolcedo, a main door, though the façade monument is the Convento
mountain village with stone- is Neo-Classical. Inside (reduced di San Domenico. Built
paved mule tracks and water- to a single aisle in 1770) there between 1460 and 1490, it
mills along the banks of the are several notable works of is considered to have the
river – evidence of an olive oil art, including several by Luca best collection of works by
tradition dating back to the Cambiaso. However, chief among the Liguria-Nice school. Its
1100s. The local olive groves them is an exquisite painting on master pieces include five
are among the most famous a gold background of the works by the French artist
in the region. Baptism of Christ (1397), by the Ludovico Brea.
There are no less than five Sienese artist Taddeo di Bartolo. It is worth popping down
bridges across the river. The It is the oldest known painting of to Arma di Taggia, a small resort
oldest, known as Ponte Grande, its type in the Riviera di Ponente. just a 10-minute drive along
was built in 1292 by the Knights There is also the delightful the coast. It has a lovely beach,
of St John. church of San Bernardino, as well as several hotels
The parish church of San just outside Triora; its interior and restaurants.
Tommaso overlooks a small is virtually smothered in 15th-
piazza, paved in the Ligurian century frescoes. E Convento di San Domenico
style in black and white pebbles. Piazza Beato Cristoforo. Tel 0184 476
This Baroque jewel was built E Museo Etnografico e 254. Open 9am–noon, 3–6pm
in 1738. della Stregoneria Mon–Sat. &
Corso Italia 1. Tel 0184 944 77.
Open winter 2:30–6pm daily (from
a Triora 10:30am–noon Sat & Sun); summer
10:30am–noon, 3–6:30 pm daily. &
Imperia. Road Map A4. * 500.
V San Remo. @ n Pro Loco, Corso
Italia 7, 0184 944 77. _ Processione Environs
del Monte (2nd Sun after Easter), Festa About 10 km (6 miles) beyond
della Madonna della Misericordia (1st Triora, just a stone’s throw from
Sun in Jul). ∑ comune.triora.im.it the French border, is the tiny
village of Realdo. It is set in a
The old medieval village of stunning position, teetering on
Triora, an outpost of the a rocky cliff at 1,065 m (3,500 ft)
Republic of Genoa, lies near above sea level, with some of
the head of the Valle Argentina. Liguria’s highest peaks as a
With the Ligurian Alps rising backdrop. The houses have a
up behind, this is a truly distinctly Alpine appearance
enchanting place. Also known and the few inhabitants speak The arcaded Via Soleri in Taggia, with its
as the “paese delle streghe” in old Provençal. black stone arches
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



162-163_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 162 09/09/16 10:48 am

THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  163


Ludovico Brea

Of the many foreign artists working in Liguria, and in particular on the Riviera di Ponente,
between the mid-15th century and the mid-16th century, Ludovico Brea (c.1450–c.1523)
is the best documented. Born in Nice, Brea became a painter in his native city and was
probably influenced by the artistic trends emanating from Avignon. Cultural exchange,
encouraged by trade between Liguria and the South of France – a depot for goods from
northern Europe – was lively at that time, and it was not unusual for Flemish paintings, or
for the artists themselves, to find themselves in the Ligurian area. Thus, Ludovico Brea was
able to learn from, and be influenced by, works from different schools of painting, and to
absorb a variety of cultural elements. Of northern European styles, he was particularly
interested in Flemish art, but was also fascinated by the miniatures found in medieval
manuscripts. Brea was extremely adept at understanding the taste of his Ligurian
patrons, a skill that enabled him to work in Italy for many years. After producing some
early work in his native city, Brea transferred to Liguria. Traces of his various moves and of
his life in general at that time are scant, and generalizations about his artistic influences
are usually made by stydying his later work. While in Liguria, visitors may also come across
the work of Ludovico’s brother, Antonio, and his son, Francisco.


The Artist at Work
Ludovico Brea completed most of his work in three
Ligurian cities: in Genoa, where his works can be
seen in the gallery of Palazzo Bianco (a St Peter and
Crucifixion) and in the church of Santa Maria di
Castello (Conversion of St Paul and Coronation of
the Virgin); in Savona, where there are works in the
oratory of Nostra Signora di Castello (Madonna and
Saints), in the Cathedral treasury (Assunta and
Saints, detail shown left) and in the Pinacoteca
Civica (Christ on the Cross between the Madonna
and St John the Evangelist); and in Taggia, with
works in the Convento di San Domenico and the
adjacent museum. All three paintings illustrated
below can be seen in Taggia.

The Baptism of Christ (1495) is
a polyptych in San Domenico, in
Taggia, in the chapel on the left of
the presbytery, and is the only work
complete with its frame and predella.










The Madonna del Rosario,
which dates from 1513 and The polyptych dedicated to
is also in San Domenico in Santa Caterina da Siena
Taggia, features a landscape (1488), has an astonishing
background of some depth. gold background, against
A lightning sky looms in which the figures emerge in
the background. an almost surreal fashion.





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164  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


d Tour of the Armea and Crosia Valleys

This itinerary follows a route which can be covered easily in a day. It takes the visitor
to some of the most picturesque villages in the far west of the Riviera del Ponente,
on the slopes of the hinterland behind the strip between San Remo and Bordighera.
Interesting though the coastal towns are, this part of the Ligurian interior also has a
great deal to offer. Here visitors will find ancient towns and villages which grew up
along the old salt routes, often very close to the border with France. Set Pigna
among green hills which rise rapidly to become mountains, many of
these ancient centres have managed to preserve their old Pigna
appearance and atmosphere, despite the passing of time.

R. Bonda







Isolabonana •





3 Apricale
At the heart of this medieval village, set T. Nervia
in a panoramic position, is Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele, with the parish church of the
Purificazione di Maria, the Oratory of San
Bartolomeo and some castle ruins. Apricale T. di Vallecrosia
(from apricus, which means “facing towards
the sun”) is also known as the “artists’ village”,
because of the modern murals painted on
the façades of the old houses. • Seborga

4 Perinaldo
At the top of Val Crosia, this village was the
birthplace of Italy’s greatest astronomer,
Giaovanni Domenico Cassini (1625–1712),
discoverer of asteroids and moons, and famous
for his work for Louis XIV. A museum in the
Palazzo del Comune is dedicated to him. The
parish church of San Nicolò dates from 1495.
Nice
• Ventimiglia


5 Vallecrosia Alta •
Set among fields of flowers and Bordighera
vineyards which produce Rossese, one of
Liguria’s most prized wines, this town is the
older twin of the modern seaside village of
Vallecrosia, just west of Bordighera. In the
medieval quarter is the church of San Rocco.
Nearby, at Garibbe, there is the unexpected
Museum of Song and Sound Reproduction.





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T OUR OF THE ARMEA AND CROSIA V ALLEY S  165



2 Baiardo
This small town lies at the end of a Tips for Drivers
winding road, at 900 m (2,745 ft) Imperia. Road Map A4–5.
above sea level, just beyond the Length of tour: 50 km (31 miles).
Ghimbegna pass. It is overlooked by Time needed: one day.
the picturesque ruins of the church n Ceriana comune, Corso
of San Nicolò, which collapsed Italia 141, 0184 551 017.
during the earthquake that shook Baiardo comune, Via Roma, 0184
the town in 1887, killing hundreds of 673 054. Apricale IAT, Via Roma 1,
people in the process. There are 0184 208 641 (seasonal).
splendid views of the Maritime Alps Perinaldo IAT, Via Arco di Trionfo
from the terrace behind the church. 2, 0184 672 095. Vallecrosia Alta
comune, Via Orazio Raimondo 71,
0184 255 22 11.
Vallecrosia Alta: “U cantun de
R. Bonda l’antigu”, antiques and crafts
Monte Merlo
1014m (3,326 ft) market (2nd Sun of month).


Monte Neveia Key
835m (2,739 ft) Motorway
Tour route
Other roads
Monte Bignone
1,299m (4,030 ft) River
Peak
T. Armea
Monte Colma
649m (2,129 ft)
•
Borello
Genoa
A10
• Seborga


• Bussana
A10

• San Remo 0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3




1 Ceriana
This pretty mountain-top village lies in
the Valle Armea, 12 km (7 miles) north
of San Remo. Built in the Middle Ages
on the site of a Roman villa, Ceriana’s
old centre is still encircled by perfectly
preserved walls. Walking around the
narrow streets and alleys, visitors can
enjoy unexpected glimpses of the
surrounding countryside.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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168  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


f San Remo the English were, and
the seafront Corso
Imperia. Road Map A5. * 59,000.
V @ n IAT Riviera dei Fiori, Largo Imperatrice was named
Nuvoloni 1, 0184 590 59. _ Festival in honour of Maria
della Canzone Italiana (late Feb or Alexandrovna, wife of
early Mar); Milano–San Remo cycle Tzar Alexander II and a
race (Sat closest to19 Mar); Rally di San frequent visitor to San
Remo (early Oct). ∑ rivieradeifiori. Remo. This seafront
org ∑ comunedisanremo.it boulevard is a favourite
place to stroll, and
Defined, in the eyes of many provides a wonderful
Italians, by its thriving flower taste of the old
industry and its Festival of Italian aristocratic resort. San Remo’s famous casino
Song, San Remo is also one of Beyond Lungomare
the Italian Riviera’s best-known Vittorio Emanuele II and Santuario di Nostra Signora
and most atmospheric resorts. Lungomare Italo Calvino, della Costa, remodelled in the
The city is divided into three where the streets are broken up 1630s. There is a fine pebble
distinct areas: Corso Matteotti by lawns, the road continues to mosaic outside and four statues
and the surrounding area (the the modern marina, Portosole, by Maragliano on the high altar.
heart of the shopping district), La and the old, (or town), port. As well as shops, there are
Pigna (the old town), and the At the end of Corso Trento e some interesting palazzi on
west end of the seafront, which Trieste, beyond the Giardini Corso Matteotti. One of these
was the heart of the resort during Ormond, stands Villa Nobel, is Palazzo Borea d’Olmo, a
its heyday. where Alfred Nobel, the curious mix of Mannerism
Tourism, mainly English, famous Swedish scientist and Baroque. As the
boomed in San Remo from the lived, and where he Museo Civico, it houses
mid-1800s to the early 1900s, a died in 1896. a mix of archaeological
period of great expansion when The other part of San finds, Garibaldian relics
all manner of grand hotels and Remo that no one and 18th- and 19th-
villas were built, including should miss is its century paintings.
various Art Nouveau palazzi. medieval “città Finally, for a
There is no better Belle Epoque vecchia”, fortified fascinating insight
monument than the splendid in the 11th century into the local flower
and still-thriving Casinò in order to keep out the trade, visit San Remo’s
Municipale, built by Eugenio Saracens. The area is famous wholesale flower
Ferret in 1904–06. known as La Pigna, market, which lies
Another unmistakable San or pine cone, Statue of Spring, on the San just east of the
Remo landmark, with its onion because of its layout: Remo seafront city centre in the
domes, is the Russian Orthodox the maze of alleys, Armea valley.
Church, built in the 1920s. steps, arches and covered
The Russians were almost as walkways are spread out in con- E Museo Civico
passionate about San Remo as cen tric circles from the top of Corso Matteotti 143.
the hill. The main Tel 0184 531 942. Open 9am–7pm
monuments, including the Tue–Sat. &
cathedral and the Oratorio
dell’Immacolata Concezione Environs
(1563), are found in the About 10 km (6 miles) east
central Piazza San Siro. of San Remo is the suburb of
The Cathedral of San Siro, Bussana Nuova and, beyond,
founded in the 12th is Bussana Vecchia, one of the
century, has two fine side most charming spots on the
doors featuring bas-reliefs Riviera di Ponente.
in the lunette: the one on Destroyed by the 1887
the left, which dates from earthquake, which left only
the 12th century, represents the bell tower of the Baroque
the Agnello pasquale, or church of Sacro Cuore intact,
paschal lamb. Inside, there Bussana Vecchia was partially
are three aisles and three restored in the 1960s, when
apses, extended in 1600. an artists’ colony moved in.
There are good works The artists opened up studios
of art including a 15th- and crafts workshops, but took
century Crucifixion. care to change the original
At the top of La Pigna appearance of the village as
The harbour at San Remo is the sumptuous little as possible.
The medieval village of Dolceacqua



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THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  169


g Pigna h Dolceacqua Capo Sant’Ampelio, is the
Romanesque church of
Imperia. Road Map A4. * 1,015. See pp170–71. Sant’Ampelio, with an
V Ventimiglia. @ n Comune,
Piazza Umberto I, 0184 241 016. j Bordighera 11th-century crypt. It stands
on the spot where Ampelio
(a hermit who later became
Imperia. Road Map A5. * 11,300.
Situated in the foothills of the V @ n Via Vittorio Emanuele II a saint), once lived.
Maritime Alps in the Alta Val 172–174, 0184 262 322. _ Bordighera In the historical centre, look
Nervia, some 40 km (25 miles) Città dell’Umorismo, a festival of out for the 17th-century church
north of San Remo, Pigna is a humour (late Apr–early May); Sagra of Santa Maria Maddalena,
fascinating place – its form is del Pesce (mid-Jul); Berlecata Sasso with a fine early 16th-century
reminiscent of the eponymous (early Aug). ∑ visitrivieradeifiori.it marble sculpture on the high
district in San Remo. Strolling altar, attributed to the workshop
around the narrow streets, The famous painting by Monet, of Domenico Parodi. In nearby
known as chibi, it is easy to A View of Bordighera, is evidence Piazza De Amicis there is a
under stand how the medieval of the historic fame of this sunny marble fountain (1783) featuring
town was built, with the houses and lively resort. As was the case a statue of Magiargiè, who was
grouped defensively on elsewhere on the Riviera, Bordig- a slave to the Spanish Moors
concentric streets. hera was particularly popular and died in Bordighera.
Among a number of fine with the British. Here, too, visitors For a quiet interlude, visit the
churches, the most important will find Art Nouveau palazzi Giardino Esotico Pallanca,
is the church of San Michele, (many con ver ted into hotels or which has more than 3,000
founded in 1450. A splendid apartments), and a popular species of cacti and succulents.
white marble rose window, seafront boule vard – the Lungo-
perhaps the work of Giovanni mare Argentina, with Capo E Biblioteca Museo
Gagini from the early 1500s, Sant’ Ampelio at the far end. The Clarence Bicknell
adorns the façade. Inside, the beach is good and often busy, Via Bicknell 3. Tel 0184 263 694.
Polyptych of St Michael is a and dotted with palm trees. Open 8:30am–1pm, 1:30–4:45pm
monumental work by the The Biblioteca Museo Mon, 9am–1pm Tue–Thu.
Piemontese artist Clarence Bicknell Closed public hols.
Canavesio (1500s), was founded by Y Giardino Esotico Pallanca
in which the Clarence Bicknell, Via Madonna della Ruota 1. Tel 0184
influence of the who was one of 266 347. Open winter: 9am–5pm
Brea brothers (see Bordighera’s many daily; summer: 9am–12:30pm, 2:30–
p163) is evident. British visitors, a 7pm daily. & ∑ pallanca.it
Also by vicar, botanist
Canavesio are and an archae-
the frescoes ologist. Bicknell’s
portraying The The rose window at San library-cum-
Passion of Christ, Michele, Pigna museum houses
housed in the small Roman funerary
church of San Bernardo, within objects and, more interestingly,
the cemetery. Other places of casts of rock drawings and a
interest are the ruins of the vast photo-graphic archive of
church of San Tommaso, and ancient graffiti from the nearby Plaque welcoming people to
Piazza Castello, with superb Vallée des Merveilles in France. Seborga, near Bordighera
views over the village of There is a handful of sights of
Castel Vittorio. historic interest. By the sea, on Environs
In a lofty position about 12 km
(7 miles) north of Bordighera is
the ancient village of Seborga,
which, along with its 350 inhabi-
tants, enjoys the unexpected
title of “principality”. Thanks to a
historical anomaly, the town was
able to elect its own sovereign,
Giorgio I, in 1963, and pass a
constitution. The town has its
own currency, the luigino
(Seborga’s first mint was set up
by Bene-dictine monks in 1660),
print their own stamps, and
its cars carry SB on their
Cacti in the tropical garden of Pallanca at Bordighera licence plates.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



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170  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

h Dolceacqua

By a quirk of fate, this delightful medieval village is, View of
Dolceacqua
despite its name (which means “fresh water”), home The picturesque
to one of the most prized and famous red wines in medieval village
Italy, Rossese, a favourite with Napoleon and Pope has narrow
Julius III. Overlooked by the imposing but not alleyways and
tall houses.
overbearing mass of the ruined Castello dei Doria,
the village spreads out on the slopes of the mountain
and is reminiscent of one of Liguria’s traditional
presepi (nativity scenes) when seen from above. The
River Nervia divides Dolceacqua into two. On one
side is the older part, known as Borgo, while the
newer district on the right is called Terra. The artist
Claude Monet, who loved this area, painted the castle
and described the old bridge which links the two
quarters as a “jewel of lightness”.















. Ponte Vecchio
This light and elegant bridge has a single
ogee arch with an impressive span of
33 m (110 ft). Built in the 15th century,
the bridge links the two quarters of Terra
and Borgo, separated by the River Nervia.


KEY
1 Palazzo Doria is where members
of the Doria family settled in the 18th
century after their castle became
uninhabitable. An old passageway
still links the palazzo to the church
of Sant’Antonio, a route that was
reserved for the Doria family alone.
2 The bell tower of Sant’Antonio
Abate forms part of the village’s
encircling walls.
3 The Church of San Giorgio is
located across the river from the old
village (at the end of the bridge
south of this illustration). The Monument to the “Gombo”
13th-century church of San Giorgio This modern work is dedicated
has the remains of a Romanesque to Pier Vicenzo Mela, a local man
bell tower, and a ceiling with who was the first to use an olive
interesting painted beams. In press (gombo) to extract oil, in
the crypt is a Doria family tomb. the 1700s.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


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THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  171


. Castello dei Doria VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Built to defend the town in 1100
and bought by the Doria family Practical Information
in 1270, this castle gradually Imperia.
acquired the look of a noble Road Map A5. * 2,000.
palazzo. It was damaged in 1754 n Via Barberis Colomba 3,
but was dealt its final blow by 0184 206 666. _ Procession
the earthquake in 1887. of San Sebastiano (Sun closest
to 20 Jan); Festa Patronale
dell’Assunta (15 Aug); Festa
della “Michetta” (16 Aug).
∑ dolceacqua.it
Transport
V Ventimiglia. @












































The church of Sant’Antonio Abate
Dolceacqua’s parish church has
in front of it a broad square paved
with pebbles, in the Ligurian tradition.
The church dates from 1400, but was
altered in the Baroque era. Inside
there is a lovely polyptych painted
by Ludovico Brea.




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172  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA


the Hanbury Botanical Gardens
(see pp174–5).
The River Roia divides
Ventimiglia into two: the
medieval part on a hill to the
west, and the modern town
on the coastal plain to the east.
Traces of the era of Roman
domination, which followed
rule by the Liguri Intemelii
people, can be seen at
Albintimilium, on the eastern
periphery of the new town. Marble cover of a funerary urn,
Clearly visible from the flyover 1st century AD
on the Via Aurelia, the ruins
View of the apse of the Cattedrale consist of a stretch of the and the Neo-Classical former
dell’Assunta, Ventimiglia decumanus maximus (or main Teatro Civico. The latter houses
street), a few houses and the the Civica Biblioteca
k Ventimiglia great baths (the source of the Aprosiana, the oldest public
lovely Mosaico di Arione, now library in Liguria (founded in
Imperia. Road Map A5. * 26,000.
V @ n Via Cavour 61, 0184 351 in front of the hospital). More 1648) with a fine collection of
183. _ Corteo Storico, historical important than any of these, rare books and manuscripts.
procession (1st or 2nd Sun in Aug, however, is the small Theatre, At the heart of Via Garibaldi
odd years); Battaglia di Fiori (summer). the most significant Roman is the imposing bulk of the
∑ turismoinliguria.it monument in Liguria. Dating Cattedrale dell’Assunta. This
∑ ventimiglia.it from the early 3rd century BC, was built in place of an 8th-
the theatre could seat more than century Carolingian chuch in
Ventimiglia is the last major 5,000 spectators. Ten levels of the 11th and 12th centuries,
town on the Riviera di Ponente steps in the lower section, made and has been modified at
before the French border. It from Turbia stone, are still well intervals since then: the façade
is a perfect synthesis of the preserved, while the western is Romanesque, for example,
characteristics of towns along entrance gate is practically while the portico, added in
this part of the coast, and, more intact. Various finds discovered 1222, is Gothic. The bell tower,
generally, of all coastal towns in at the site are on display in the constructed on a 12th-century
the region: a place where past nearby Museo Archeologico base, was rebuilt in the Baroque
and present seem to co-exist Gerolamo Rossi, in the Forte era and remodelled once again
quite happily, where Roman dell’Annunziata in town. in the 19th century. Inside, there
ruins rub shoulders with the Via Garibaldi (also known is not much to see, though in
latest tourist facilities. as “la piazza”) is the main street the crypt there are parts of the
A frontier town par excellence through the cobbled and old medieval church, as well as
(its history is studded with charming centro storico. There some pre-Roman sculptures.
numerous disputes with nearby are some fine palazzi here, some Adjoining the Assunta is
France over the national border with hanging gardens to the the octagonal Baptistry
lines), Ventimiglia straddles the back opening onto the upper (11th century); which contains
Roia and the Nervia valleys, floors, in the 16th-century a wonderful font dating from
among the most beautiful in tradition. Among the most the 12th–13th centuries.
the Ligurian Alps. Nearby are important buildings are the Continuing along Via Garibaldi,
marvels of nature such as the Palazzo Pubblico, the Loggia past another couple of churches,
Grotte dei Balzi Rossi and del Magistrato dell’Abbondanza visitors eventually reach Porta
Nizza. From here, following Via
della Torre and Via Appio, you
reach Piazza Colletta and the
lovely Romanesque church of
San Michele. The unimpressive
façade is 19th-century, but the
main body of the church, of
which only the central nave
survives, dates from the 11th
century. The bell tower, apse and
vault are from the 12th century.
Inside is an 11th-century crypt,
incorporating various Roman
materials, including columns
The Roman theatre in Ventimiglia, dating from the 3rd century AD used in the high altar.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



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THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  173


ornamental and artistic objects
have been discovered in the
caves, in particular in the Grotta
del Principe, slightly removed
from the other caves and also
the largest.
Of greatest interest are the
many tombs, which provide
a few tangible snippets of
information about the people
who lived here some 240,000
years ago. They were undoubt­
edly among the most sophisti­
cated of any people living in
Europe at that time.
Overlooking the town of Ventimiglia The most famous of these
tombs, known as the Triple
From Porta Nizza, visitors can consists of nine caves, which Tomb, was discovered in Barma
also climb up west of the old have been explored at various Grande cave in 1892. Today,
city to the ruins of three times since the 19th century. it is on display in the Museo
medieval forts, a reminder of The name of Balzi Rossi Preistorico dei Balzi Rossi,
the battles that were once (meaning “red rocks”) derives founded by the Englishman Sir
fought over Ventimiglia. One of from the reddish colour of the Thomas Hanbury (see p174) in
these, the Castel d’Appio, built precipitous limestone cliffs. 1898. To the side of the tomb are
by the Genoese in the 13th This atmospheric place has two male individuals, a boy on
century, occupies the site not yielded fascinating and a man more than 2 m
only of a Roman military camp evidence of human (6 ft) tall on the right. At
(castrum) but also of an early settlement in this part the centre is a girl of
Ligurian defence post. There are of Liguria, going back around 16 years old.
marvellous views of the as far as the Funerary objects are
Riviera from here. Palaeolithic age. The shown, such as sea
The modern, eastern part area was probably shells, pendants of
of Ventimiglia, complete chosen because of worked bone, deer
with seaside promenades, is the favourable natural Necklace found in the teeth and necklaces
a shopping mecca and is very conditions, including Triple Tomb fashioned out of fish
popular with the French. The the warm climate and vertebrae – items
streets are busy at weekends the proximity of the sea. There that traditionally accompanied
and on Fridays, when people is a walkway connecting some the deceased.
from the surrounding area of the caves, some of which The museum also has on
flood in for the market. are open to the public. display a reproduction of the
Numerous stone and bone only figure engraved in a
T Albintimilium instruments, fossil remains of naturalistic style to be discovered
Corso Genova. Tel 0184 252 320. animals, and various at Balzi Rossi. Found in the Grotta
Open 3–6pm Sat, Sun. del Caviglione, it is the
E Museo Archeologico profile of a shortish,
Gerolamo Rossi stocky horse, 40 cm (16 in)
Via Verdi 41. Tel 0184 351 181. long and 20 cm (8 in)
Open 9am–12:30pm, 3–5pm Mon, high. It is known as the
Tue & Thu, 9am–12:30pm, 9–11pm Fri Przewalskii Horse; a few
9am–12:30pm Sat, 9–11pm Sun. & rare examples of the breed
= ∑ marventimiglia.it survive in Mongolia. Also
on display are stone
instruments, animal
l Balzi Rossi skeletons and small
statues.
Grimaldi di Ventimiglia (Imperia).
Road Map A5.
E Grotte e Museo
This prehistoric site, one of the Preistorico dei Balzi Rossi
most famous in the western Ponte San Ludovico, Via Balzi
Mediterranean, lies about 10 km Rossi 9. Tel 0184 381 13.
(6 miles) west of Ventimiglia, Museum: Open 8:30am–
below the village of Grimaldi 7:30pm Tue–Sun. Grotte:
and just a stone’s throw from Open 8:30am–1 hour before
the Italy–France border. It One of the nine Balzi Rossi caves sunset. 8 hourly. &




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174  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

z Hanbury Botanical Gardens

This splendid botanical garden was founded in 1867 by Sir
Thomas Hanbury, a rich English businessman, and his brother
Daniel, a botanist, with the help of the eminent German
botanist, Ludovico Winter. Sir Thomas was passionate about
Liguria, and saw the opportunity that its warm climate
provided: the exotic plants that he brought back from his
travels, particularly those from hot, dry areas such as
Southern Africa and Mexico, he was able to acclimatize to
co-exist with the local flora. By 1898, the garden included
more than 7,000 plant species. The gardens were left to decay
during much of the 20th century but are now being coaxed Agave
back to their former glory by the University of Genoa. Aloes and agaves, particular
favourites of Sir Thomas, are
planted among the rocks to
. Dragon Fountain re-create the desert habitat
Encircled by papyruses from which they originate.
(warm-climate plants
which have acclimatized
well here), this fountain
has an ancient and rather
mysterious air. Sitting on
the rim is a dragon, an
echo of Sir Thomas’s
beloved Far East.








Temple of the
Four Seasons
This is one of many temples
that Sir Thomas had built
around the gardens, in
line with late 19th-century
taste. Its classical style is
evocative of an Italian
Renaissance garden.











KEY
1 The Viale dei Cipressi
(avenue of cypresses) is one
of the most charming parts of 0 metres
the garden, with its lines of tall 50
trees, a familiar sight in the 0 yards 50
Italian countryside.

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7


174-175_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 174 09/09/16 10:44 am

THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  175

The Terraces
In this part of the garden the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
plants are grouped so that they
form “themed gardens”. There are Practical Information
wonderful views from the Pavilion. Corso Montecarlo 43, La Mortola
Inferiore (Imperia). Road Map A5.
Tel 0184 229 507. ∑ parks.it
and ∑ giardinihanbury.com
Open Mar–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–
mid-Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily (last
entry at 5pm); mid-Jun–mid-Sep:
9:30am–7pm daily (last entry at
6pm); mid-Oct–28 Feb: 9:30am–
5pm daily (last entry at 4pm).
Closed Mon, 1 Nov–27 Feb,
25 Dec. &
Transport
V Ventimiglia.









































. The Villa
The original palazzo was built in the 14th
century and extended in the 17th. In the 1930s,
Mussolini held a notorious meeting with
General Franco here. The villa now houses
offices and is not open to the public, but visitors
can enjoy the lovely views over the gardens
and down to the sea from the villa’s loggia.




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176-177_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 176 09/09/16 10:44 am

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 178–183

Where to Eat and Drink 184–197
Shopping 198–199
Outdoor Activities 200–201
Entertainment 202–203















































176-177_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 177 09/09/16 10:44 am

178  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Liguria has long been popular with holiday- two rivieras, has accommodation to suit
makers and therefore has a tradition of all tastes and budgets, both in the Centro
providing a wide range of accommodation, Storico and in the immediate vicinity. In
particularly on the coast. Along both the general, visitors tend to stay on the coast
Riviera di Levante and the Riviera di Ponente, and make day trips inland. Those who want
with their collection of renowned resorts, to try out the increasingly popular option of
visitors will find an almost uninterrupted agriturismo (which means staying on a farm),
string of sumptuous hotels and family-run should head into the Ligurian hinterland.
pensioni, which are open virtually all year Camping is another option, which is available
round. Genoa, sandwiched between the either inland or along the coast.
Hotel Categories & Prices long coastline and beaches
In Liguria, hotels are classified attract big crowds. Visitors are
according to the Italian national advised to book accom modation
system. The categories range well in advance, confirming the
from one to five stars, that is, booking via e-mail.
from budget accommodation to
lux ury hotels. In general, you can
expect one- and two-star Hotels
services to be of a good As a region that depends to a
standard, but the best value for large extent on tourism, Liguria
money is generally found in the has a well-developed net work
three-star category. Note that of hotels, with generally good
hotels in the lower categories facilites. The one exception on
may not accept credit cards. the coast is the Cinque Terre,
Prices vary according to the where accommodation tends
season, rising in the high season to be fairly simple. Most coastal
or during major festivals and resorts offer hotels in all five cate-
cultural events. Guests should gories. A list of hotels, including Holidaymakers relaxing on the beach
expect to be charged a tourist family-run pensioni, with prices, at Monterosso
tax of €1 (one- to three-star can be obtained from the
hotels), €2 (four-star hotels) or €3 regional tourist (IAT) offices (see alternative form of
(five-star hotels) per night. This is opposite), or from local offices accommodation, particularly
tax is not applicable to children in the larger resorts (see p207). among people who love the
under 14. outdoors or who want to
choose from activites such
Agriturismo and
Booking Bed and Breakfast as fishing or horse riding. The
agriturismo formula is simple:
Liguria is a very popular region, Agriturismo (or farm holidays) working farms offer rooms
especially in summer, when the have become a popular (including self-catering options),
and home-made food based on
local products, in many cases
grown or made by the owners
themselves. They also offer other
facilities ranging from children’s
play areas to swimming pools.
Bed and breakfast accommo-
da tion, also available in Liguria, is
generally comfortable and
inex pensive. This type of lodging
is found mainly in larger cities
and in principal coastal resorts,
though rarely in the interior.

Camping
Camping in Italy does not have
as large a following as it does in
Comfortable public rooms at the Royal Hotel (see p183) in San Remo some other European countries.
Waterfront dining area at the lovely Portofino harbour on the Ligurian coast



178-179_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 178 09/09/16 10:48 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  179


DIRECTORY
Agenzia Regionale
per la Promozione Turistica
“In Liguria”
Via D’Annunzio 2/78,
19th floor, Genova.
Tel 010 530 82 24.
Fax 010 595 85 07.
∑ turismoinligura.it
Genoa Visitor Centre
Palazzo delle Torrette
Via Garibaldi 12r, Genova.
Tel 010 557 29 03.
Fax 010 557 24 14.
∑ visitgenoa.it
The seafront at Bordighera, lined with hotels IAT Riviera dei Fiori
Many camp sites are situated and may suit families with Largo Nuvoloni 1,
close to the sea, while some young children better than a San Remo.
have private beaches reserved hotel. Again, the accommo- Tel 0184 590 59.
for resi dents. These dation listings Fax 0184 507 649.
sites are usually clean, provided by tourist ∑ rivieradeifiori.org
well-cared for and in offices (IAT) should
reasonably natural provide the names, IAT Tigullio
surroundings. Coastal addresses and Via XXV Aprile 4,
sites are often parti cu- numbers of various Santa Margherita Ligure.
larly busy in August, so agencies which deal Tel 0185 287 485.
book in advance. with short-term
Since camping is not rentals. In addition, the Fax 0185 283 034.
necessarily a cheap tourist literature will ∑ provincia.genova.it
option in Italy, always Tourist signs also include the details Provincia La Spezia
check the rates. of private individuals Sezione Turismo
Note that there are strict who offer apartments for rent.
regulations as to where camper Viale Mazzini 45,
vans can be parked. A list of La Spezia.
camp sites can be found at any Recommended Hotels Tel 0187 770 900.
regional tourist (IAT) office. The hotels in the listings that Fax 0187 770 908.
follow have been divided into
six categories: B&B, Family-Run, UIT Riviera Ligure
Self-Catering
Modern, Historic, Rooms with a delle Palme
Besides self-catering on an View and Charming. Via Sormano 12,
agri turismo or a camp site, there Bed and breakfast accom-
are also self-catering apartments modation guarantees in- Alassio.
available for rent. These can be expensive, comfortable rooms Tel 019 831 33 26.
found mainly in the largest sea- with the promise of a great Fax 019 831 32 69.
side resorts along the riviera, break fast. What distin guishes a ∑ turismo.provincia.savona.it
family-run hotel is the
friendly staff, a homely
ambience, and a great features enchanting residences
atmosphere of warm and villas, sometimes over-
hospitality. Modern looking the sea, or located in
hotels offer good service small picturesque villages. These
in hassle-free rooms, guarantee a relaxing holiday in
with facilities such as elegantly furnished rooms.
gyms, spas, swimming The DK Choice hotels are extra
pools and tennis courts. special. These hotels may have
There are many historic above ave rage standards, or a
hotels across Liguria breath taking location, or they
with beautiful period may simply have an appeal that
Bedroom at Grand Hotel Savoia (see p180) furni shings. “Charming” sets them apart from the rest.




178-179_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 179 09/09/16 10:48 am

180  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Le Strade Nuove Price Guide
Genoa Agnello d'Oro € Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Il Centro Storico Family-run Map 2 D2 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Vico delle Monachette 6, 16126
Il Bel Soggiorno € Tel 010 246 2084 € under €150
B&B Map 3 A3 ∑ hotelagnellodoro.it €€ €150–€300
Via XX Settembre 19, 16121 In a former convent, with bright €€€ over €300
Tel 010 542 880 rooms and modern facilities.
∑ belsoggiornohotel.com Vittoria & Orlandini €
Clean, simple rooms at this B&B Astoria € Family-run Map 2 E2
in an Art Nouveau building. Historic Map 2 E2 Via Balbi 33, 16126
Buffet breakfast. Pets allowed. Piazza Brignole 4, 16122 Tel 010 261 923
Tel 010 873 316 ∑ vittoriaorlandini.com
Il Borgo di Genova € ∑ hotelastoriagenova.it Well-appointed rooms, good ser-
Charming Map 3 C2 Rooms with frescoed ceilings and vice. Easy access to train station.
Via Borgo degli Incrociati 7, 16137 antiques set in a centrally located
Tel 347 602 55 78 19th-century aristocratic palazzo. Cit Hotels Britannia €€
∑ ilborgodigenova.com Modern Map 2 E2
Lovely B&B run by a young couple, Balbi € Via Balbi 38, 16123
close to main tourist sites. All B&B Map 2 D2 Tel 010 247 0800
rooms with en suite bathrooms. Via Balbi 21, 16126 ∑ cithotels-britannia-genoa.
Tel 010 275 9288 h-rez.com
Veronese € ∑ hotelbalbigenova.it Centrally located, near main train
B&B Map 5 B2 Housed in a historic palace with station. Spacious and clean rooms.
Vico Cicala 3, 16124 frescoes, Balbi has spacious rooms.
Tel 010 251 0771 Grand Hotel Savoia €€
∑ hotelveronese.com Best Western City € Historic Map 2 D2
Set in a historic palace, near Modern Map 3 A2 Via Arsenale di Terra 5, 16126
Genoa's main attractions. Quiet, Via S. Sebastiano 6, 16123 Tel 010 277 21
clean and well serviced rooms. Tel 010 584 707 ∑ hotelsavoiagenova.it
Parking at extra cost. ∑ bwcityhotel-ge.it A 19th-century palazzo, with a
Wide range of rooms (from singles spa, gym and sola rium.
NH Marina €€ to suites) with facilities for tour
Modern Map 2 E5 groups and business clients.
Molo Ponte Calvi 5, 16124 Further Afield
Tel 010 25 391 Best Western Metropoli € AC Hotel €
∑ nh-hotels.it Pension Map 6 D2 Modern Map D3
Elegantly contemporary, with a Piazza Fontane Marose, 16123 Corso Europa 1075, 16146
bar, two summer terraces and Tel 010 24 68 88 8 Tel 010 307 1180
meeting rooms. ∑ hotelmetropoli.it ∑ marriott.com/hotels/travel/
Modern, comfortable, in a pretty goage-ac-hotel-genova
DK Choice piazza, near museums and opera. This hotel offers plenty of comfort
and style. There is a sun terrace,
Palazzo Cicala €€ Cairoli € fitness centre and Turkish bath.
Historic Map 5 C3 Modern Map 2 F3
Piazza san Lorenzo 16, 16123 Via Cairoli 14/4, 16124 Bellevue €
Tel 010 251 8824 Tel 010 246 1454 B&B Map 2 D1
∑ palazzocicala.it ∑ hotelcairoligenova.com Salita della Provvidenza 1, 16134
A chic hotel on the first floor A 16th-century palazzo with Tel 010 246 2400
of the superbly restored 16th- mod ern art interiors, family ∑ hotelbellevuegenova.it
century Palazzo Cicala. It fea- rooms, suites and a sun terrace. Centrally located, Bellevue has
tures con tem porary decor, with basic rooms and a sun terrace.
a few pieces of antique fur ni ture
adding to the charm. Rooms are La Capannina €
spa cious and bright, with high Family-run Map D3
vaulted ceil ings. The hotel also Via Tito Speri 7, 16146
offers apart ments in some of Tel 010 317 131
the most beau tiful historic ∑ lacapanninagenova.it
palazzi of the city. Outside Genoa, with easy access.
Upper rooms have great sea views,
some have balconies. Free parking.
Bristol Palace €€€
Historic Map 6 E4 Columbus Sea Hotel €
Via XX Settembre 35, 16123 Modern Map 1 B3
Tel 010 592 541 Via Milano 63, 16125
∑ hotelbristolpalace.it Tel 010 980 986
Modern rooms, some of them ∑ columbussea.com
have baths with whirlpools. Enjoy Half the rooms overlook the port.
breakfast in a mag nificent room Imposing façade of the five-star Grand Rooms have mini-bars and wireless
with frescoes. Close to attractions. Hotel Savoia Internet access. Dogs allowed.
180-183_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 180 09/09/16 10:48 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  181

Novotel Genova City €€ DK Choice
Modern Map 1 A3
Via Antonio Cantore, 8, 16126 CAMOGLI: Locanda I
Tel 010 648 41 Tre Merli €€
∑ accorhotels.com B&B Map D4
Near the harbour and city centre. Via Scalo, 5 6032
Con temporary design and facili- Tel 0185 77 67 52
ties. Bar and private garage. ∑ locandaitremerli.com
In the enchanting fishing port
DK Choice of Camogli, this hotel has great
sea views and per son alized
Torre Cambiaso €€ service. Rooms have flat screen
Historic Map D3 TVs and clock radios. There is a
Via Scarpanto 49, 16157 small spa. Parking (request
Tel 010 698 0636 when booking) is available.
∑ torre-cambiaso.com
Housed in an aristocratic 14th-
century villa, this hotel stands CAMOGLI:
on a promontory between Pegli Villa Rosmarino €€
Tasteful decor and contemporary interior of and Prà with an orchard and Boutique Map D4
the Villa Rosmarino, Camogli lush gar dens. Rooms are indi vi- Via Figari 38, 16032
dually fur nished and extremely Tel 0185 77 15 80
Méditerranée € com fortable. The terrace has ∑ villarosmarino.com
Charming Map D3 pano ramic views, and there is At the foot of Monte di Portofino,
Lungomare di Pegli 69, 16155 also a heated outdoor pool. Villa Rosmarino offers stunning
Tel 010 697 3850 views and an outdoor pool.
∑ hotel-mediterraneegenoa.it
Well-equipped, family-run hotel Villa Pagoda €€ CHIAVARI: Santa Maria €
with spacious, bright and taste- Historic Map D3 Modern Map E4
fully furnished rooms. Via Capolungo 15, 16167 Viale Tito Groppo 29, 16043
Tel 010 372 6161 Tel 0185 363 321
Moderno Verdi € ∑ villapagoda.it ∑ santamaria-hotel.com
Historic Map 3 C3 Former 18th-century villa hotel Close to the town centre, Santa
Piazza Giuseppe Verdi 5, 16121 in picturesque Nervi. Oriental Maria has a bar, garden and res-
Tel 010 553 2104 decor – no two rooms are alike. taurant, and offers bikes to rent.
∑ modernoverdi.it
In an Art Nouveau building, with DK Choice
attention to detail and comfort.
Riviera di Levante FIASCHERINO: Il Nido €€
Serafino € B&B Map F5
Family-run Map D3 AMEGLIA: Via Fiascherino 75, 19030
Via Verona 8, 16152 Locanda dell’Angelo €€ Tel 0187 967 286
Tel 010 650 7261 Family-run Map F5 ∑ hotelnido.com
∑ hotelserafino.it Viale XXV Aprile 60, 19031 This hotel has elegantly furnished
A simple establishment, well Tel 0187 643 91 rooms, some with bal co nies
connected, with good service. ∑ paracucchilocanda.it overlooking the Golfo dei Poeti.
In the countryside, close to Breakfast is served on a pano ra-
Starhotel President € the Roman ruins of Luni. Suites mic terrace. A staircase leads to
Modern Map 3 C3 have lovely views. Facilities a peaceful private beach, with a
Via Corte Lambruschini 4, 16129 include swimming, tennis, golf snack bar serving fresh salads
Tel 010 5727 and riding. and focaccia. The hotel is
∑ starhotels.it located close to many restau-
Glass skyscraper with magni fi cent BONASSOLA: Villa Belvedere € rants and is just a short distance
views, fitness centre and gour met Modern Map E4 away from Lerici by public bus.
restaurant. Near the Aqua rium Via Ammiraglio Serra 33, 19011
and Christopher Columbus’ house. Tel 0187 813 622
∑ bonassolahotelvilla ISOLA PALMARIA:
Tower Genoa Airport € belvedere.com Locanda Lorena €€
Modern Map D3 This charming place, surrounded Rooms with a view Map F5
Via Pionieri e Aviatori d’Italia 44, 16154 by olive and lemon trees, has Via Cavour 4, 19025
Tel 010 65 491 some suites with superb sea Tel 0187 79 23 70
∑ towergenova.com views. Pet-friendly. ∑ locandalorena.com
Geared towards busi ness clients. A small bright beach hotel,
Modern and close to the airport, CAMOGLI: famous for its seafood.
with a free shuttle bus to the city. Cenobio Dei Dogi €€
Historic Map D4 LA SPEZIA: Corallo €
Hermitage €€ Via Nicolò Cuneo 34, 16032 Family-run Map F4
Modern Map 4 E5 Tel 0185 72 41 Via Crispi 32, 19124
Via Alberto Liri 29, 16145 ∑ cenobio.it Tel 0187 731 366
Tel 010 311 605 Vast 17th-century luxury villa with ∑ hotelcorallospezia.com
∑ hermitagehotel.ge.it gorgeous sun terraces and a private Classic Italian decor and bright
Clean and modern with attrac tive beach. Comfortable rooms rooms. A good base for boat
decor. Sea or mountain views. decorated in sea-blue tones. trips along the coast.
For more information on types of hotels see p179
180-183_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 181 09/09/16 10:48 am

182  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

LA SPEZIA: PORTOFINO: Nazionale €€ ideal base from which to
Firenze e Continentale € Family-run Map D4 visit the area. The hotel offers
Historic Map F4 Vico Dritto 3, 16034 cooking classes and a range of
Via Paleocapa 7, 19122 Tel 0185 269 575 rejuvenating spa treatments.
Tel 0187 713 210 ∑ nazionaleportofino.com
∑ hotelfirenzecontinentale.it Small and charming, set in the SESTRI LEVANTE:
Marble floors and maho gany main square. Most rooms have a Villa Agnese €€
woodwork at this classic hotel. sitting room and an extra bed. Historic Map E4
Close to the central train station. Via alla Fattoria Pallavicini 1A, 16039
PORTOFINO: Splendido €€€ Tel 0185 457 583
LERICI: Florida €€ Luxury Map D4 ∑ hotelvillaagnese.com
Charming Map F5 Salita Baratta 16, 16034 A charming B&B in an idyllic
Lungomare Biaggini 35, 19032 Tel 0185 26 78 01 setting. Offers an organic buffet
Tel 0187 967 332 ∑ hotelsplendido.com breakfast along with many facil-
∑ hotelflorida.it Housed in a former monastery, ities for outdoor activities. Pets
Family-run hotel on the seafront Splendido overlooks the resort are welcome.
with bright and airy rooms, and a of Portofino and is a magnificent
panoramic roof terrace. place in which to stay. VENTIMIGLIA: La Riserva Di
Castel D’appio €€
LEVANTO: Hotel Stella Maris €€ RAPALLO: Rosa Bianca € Rooms with a view Map A5
Boutique Map E4 Modern Map E4 Via Redaigo 71, 18039
Via Marconi 4, 19015 Lungomare V. Veneto 42, 16035 Tel 0184 22 95 33
Tel 0187 80 82 58 Tel 0185 50 390 ∑ lariserva.it
∑ hotelstellamaris.it ∑ hotelrosabianca.it Panoramic views of the Italian
Close to the beach, decorated Large, pleasant and comfortable Riviera and Cote D’Azur at this
with frescoes and antiques. Free sea-front hotel with bright rooms hotel with a restaurant, fitness
Internet access is provided, as – some with a small balcony. centre and swimming pool.
well as bikes and beach towels.
RAPALLO: Hotel Italia E Lido €€
MANAROLA: La Torretta €€ Rooms with a view Map E4
Boutique Map F4 Lungomare Castello 1, 16035 Riviera di Ponente
Vico Volto 20, 19017 Tel 0185 50 49 4
Tel 0187 92 03 27 ∑ italiaelido.com ALASSIO: Beau Rivage €€
∑ latorrettas.com Set between Portofino and Cinque Family-run Map B4
Charming, upmarket inn housed Terre, the hotel overlooks the Via Roma 82, 17021
in a 17th-century tower with promenade and medieval castle Tel 0182 640 585
gorgeous views of the vineyards of Rapallo, and has a private beach. ∑ hotelbeaurivage.it
and sea. Just across the road from a lovely
SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE: beach. Rooms are simple and
MONTEROSSO AL MARE: Hotel Jolanda €€ pleasant, some with frescoes and
Porto Roca €€ Modern Map E4 vaulted ceilings. Good restaurant.
B&B Map E4 Via Luisito Costa 6, 16035
Via Corone 1, 19016 Tel 0185 287 512 ALBENGA: Marisa €
Tel 0187 817 502 ∑ hoteljolanda.it Modern Map B4
∑ portoroca.it Comfortable and spacious rooms Via Pisa 28, 17031
A stunning cliffside location, with modern amenities including Tel 0182 50 241
a private beach and a lovely a well-equipped gym and a ∑ marisahotel.com
garden terrace draws visitors here. Turkish bath. Period decor and modern
facilities at this clean, spacious
PORTOVENERE: SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE: hotel. Close to the seafront and
Grand Hotel Portovenere €€€ Hotel Santa town centre. Private parking.
Historic Map F5 Margherita Palace €€
Via Garibaldi 5, 19025 Design Map E4 ALBISSOLA MARINA:
Tel 0187 77 77 51 Via Roma 9, 16038 Hotel Garden €€
∑ portoveneregrand.it Tel 0185 28 71 39 Modern Map C4
Set in a 13th-century convent, this ∑ santamargheritapalace.com Viale Faraggiana 6, 17012
four-star hotel has a spa and great Located close to the beach and Tel 019 485 253
views of the village and the sea. harbour, Santa Margherita is an ∑ hotelgardenalbissola.com
Airy rooms with sea views and
Jacuzzis in bathrooms. Gym,
outdoor pool and bar. There
are also apartments to let.
APRICALE: Locanda dei Carugi €
Charming Map A4
Via Roma 12, 18030
Tel 327 886 89 65
∑ locandadeicarugi.it
This is a charming B&B in the
centre of the medieval village
of Apricale. Rooms are small but
well equipped, and furnished
Stylish, minimalist decor at Villa Agnese, Sestri Levante with restored antiques.
Key to Price Guide see p180
180-183_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 182 09/09/16 10:48 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  183

IMPERIA: Grand Hotel
DK Choice Diana Majestic €€
BORDIGHERA: Grand Hotel Modern Map B5
del Mare €€ Via degli Oleandri 15, 180/3
Modern Map A5 Tel 0182 642 701
Via Portico della Punta 34, 18012 ∑ dianamajestic.com
Tel 0184 262 201 Elegant rooms with Carrara
∑ grandhoteldelmare.it marble bathrooms. The hotel has
Situated in a park leading to the a pri vate beach and free parking.
sea, this classy hotel boasts an
outdoor seawater pool and an LAIGUEGLIA:
indoor spa with a Turkish bath Hotel Ambassador €
and sauna. All rooms and suites Historic Map B4
have sea views and balconies. Via dei Pini 5, 17053
Breakfast is an elaborate affair. Tel 0182 690 011
∑ kinghotelambassador.com
Relaxing atmosphere, sea-view
BORDIGHERA: Villa Elisa €€ rooms, large terrace, snack bar,
Charming Map A5 reading room and private parking. Picturesque setting of Punta Est in the town
Via Romana 70, 18012 of Finale Ligure
Tel 0184 261 313 LOANO: Grand Hotel
∑ villaelisa.com Garden Lido €€ SPOTORNO:
An Art Nouveau-style villa set Modern Map B4 Best Western Acqua Novella €
among citrus trees, with a pool, Lungomare Nazario Sauro 9, 17025 Modern Map C4
play area, restaurant and also a Tel 019 669 666 Via Acqua Novella 1, 17028
mini-apartment. ∑ gardenlido.com Tel 019 741 665
Modern hotel with a private beach, ∑ acquanovella.it
BORGIO VEREZZI: pool and spa. Facilities for the Offers a variety of rooms, a fitness
Villa delle Rose € disabled are provided. centre, a pool and solarium. Lift
Family-run Map C4 access to a private beach.
Via Nazario Sauro 1, 17022 PIETRA LIGURE:
Tel 019 610 461 Hotel Ca’ Ligure € VARAZZE:
∑ villarose.it Charming Map B4 Best Western El Chico €€
Set in a sleepy village away Via Concezione 10, 17027 Historic Map C3
from the coast, the hotel features Tel 019 625181 Strada Romana 63, 17019
rooms with panoramic sea or ∑ caligure.it Tel 019 931 388
mountain views. Hillside hotel with pool. Rooms have ∑ elchico.eu
a private bathroom and balcony. A villa-type complex that offers
FINALE LIGURE: Punta Est €€ its guests bright, airy rooms with
Rooms with a view Map C4 SAN REMO: Nyala Suite € balconies. Pool and olive trees.
Via Aurelia 1, 17024 Modern Map A5 Impeccable service.
Tel 019 60 06 11 Via Solaro 134, 18038
∑ puntaest.com Tel 0184 667 668 DK Choice
Views over the Ligurian bay, and ∑ nyalahotel.com
a lovely pool at this his to ric villa This quiet hotel has a botanical VARIGOTTI: Hotel Albatros €€
with paths leading to the sea. garden and solarium. Dogs and Charming Map C4
cats are welcome, too. Via Aurelia 58, 17024
FINALE LIGURE: San Pietro Tel 019 698 039
Palace €€ SAN REMO: Paradiso €€ ∑ hotelalbatrosvarigotti.it
Historic Map C4 Family-run Map A5 Set in a charming village of
Via San Pietro 9, 17024 Via Roccasterone 12, 18038 Saracen origin on the beautiful
∑ hotelsanpietropalace.it Tel 0184 571 211 beach of Varigotti, Albatros is
Housed in a palatial 17th-century ∑ paradisohotel.it just minutes from the pedes-
building, San Pietro is an elegant In a quiet area with comfortable trian zone. The rooms are bright
seafront, four-star luxury hotel. and clean rooms. Lovely and elegant, some overlooking
verandah restaurant and pool. the beach. The terrace offers
GARLENDA: La Meridiana €€ stunning sea views. There is a
Resort Map B4 SAN REMO: Royal Hotel €€€ classic Mediterranean buffet
Via ai Castelli, 17033 Luxury Map A5 breakfast with home-made
Tel 0182 58 02 71 Corso Imperatrice 80, 18038 cakes and freshly baked
∑ lameridianaresort.com Tel 0184 53 91 focaccia. Pets are welcome.
Set in a Golf Club close to the ∑ royalhotelsanremo.com
beach, this country house-style Famous for its gardens and three
hotel is great for outdoor activities. restaurants, this hotel has tennis VENTIMIGLIA:
courts, a pool, sunbeds and more. Kaly Residence Hotel €
IMPERIA: Hotel Kristina € B&B Map A5
Modern Map B5 SAVONA: NH Savona Darsena € Lungomare Trento e Trieste 67, 18039
Spianata Borgo Peri 8, 18100 Modern Map C4 Tel 0184 295 218
Tel 0183 297 434 Via Agostino Chiodo 9, 17100 ∑ hotelkaly.it
∑ hotelkristina.com Tel 019 803 211 An excellent base from which to
On the waterfront with its own ∑ nh-hotels.it explore the area. Modern
private beach. Most rooms have Set in the old port. Rooms feature apartments with weekly rentals.
large balconies. LCD TVs and mini-bars. Suites have kitchen facilities.
For more information on types of hotels see p179
180-183_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 183 09/09/16 10:48 am

184  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Meat does feature on menus in the region during the many gastronomic festivals that
of Liguria, but anyone who does not eat fish take place in each season. Agriturismo, or
is likely to feel that they are missing out. farm holidays, also give visitors the chance
Ligurian cooking revolves around seafood, to taste home cooking. The restaurants listed
particularly on the coast. Liguria has some on pages 188–97 have been selected from
excellent upmarket restaurants, but more the best on offer, across all price ranges.
pleasure can often be derived from a family- They are organized by region and price.
run trattoria in the historic district of a resort, The phrasebook on page 223 will help visitors
or in one of the hilltowns of the interior. A to order a meal although most restaurants
good time to try the local specialities is will have English menus.
Opening Hours and the sea. The
and Prices
variety of seafood on
Lunch is usually served from local menus is huge:
midday to 2:30 or 3pm, while bream (orata), red
dinner is served from 7pm until mullet (triglia) and
late in the evening, the later sea bass (branzino)
hours being kept in the large are all popular,
resorts with an active nightlife. alongside staple
Closing days depend both on shellfish such as
the season and on the type prawns and mussels.
of establishment; in general, Many restaurants
restaurants and trattorias offer fish soups and
stay open for most of the year, stews, a choice of
parti cularly in the towns along grilled or roasted fish,
the coast. In many restaurants or a mix of fried fish. Summer tables at a Ligurian restaurant, placed in the
the bill can easily exceed €50 Fancier fish dishes characteristic carruggi
per head, excluding wine, include cappon
espe cially if the meal includes magro, a salad of fish, greens the area around Taggia, are
fresh fish. In a more everyday and hard-boiled eggs in garlic particularly renowned.
trattoria, the bill is likely to come sauce. Dried cod (stoccafisso) is Basil, thyme, rosemary and
to around €25–30. In terms of also popular. Along with their marjoram, all of which are
tipping, it is usual to leave combination with fish or meat, grown in the moun tain valleys,
around 5 per cent of the total vegetables are also the focus are the clas sic Ligurian herbs.
bill in a trat toria, and 10 per of many dishes. Stuffed (ripieni Supreme among these is basil
cent in a restaurant. or farciti) vegetables are (basilico), the basis for the
very popular. region’s world-famous pesto.
The olives that are the source This is served with the region’s
Local Produce
of the region’s rightly sought- fantastic array of local pastas,
Ligurian cooking is inspired by after olive oil are also used in with intriguing names such
an ancient tradition born out cooking. Olives known as as fidelini, fazzoletti and stracci.
of the superb fruits of the land taggiasca, which means from The best-known pastas are
trofie (twists from Genoa)
and trenette (flat cousins of
spa ghetti), while the most
popular stuffed pastas are
pansôti (see p186) and ravioli.

Ligurian Trattorias
Typical Ligurian trattorias may
provide more modest decor
and simpler menus than the
average restaurant, but they
often offer excellent meals.
Unfortunately, tourist develop-
ment along the coast has
brought with it a proliferation
Fresh fish, abundant in the seas along the Riviera of fast food joints and pizza




184-185_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 184 09/09/16 10:44 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  185


parlours, which means that
it can be hard to find a good
trattoria there. Your best
chance of finding one is to go
to the hinterland and ask the
local residents. An alternative,
if you want to eat genuine local
food, is to visit an agriturismo
farm – one that offers rooms
and home-cooked meals to
visitors (see p178).

Bars and Cafés
A typical day in Liguria starts
with a visit to a café or bar for
breakfast, while reading the One of the many seaside cafés in Liguria
news paper or watching the
world go by. The best cafés festival) at Recco, at the end Disabled Access
offer cakes and pastries, often of April; the Festa dell’Olio (olive Restaurants in Liguria are
along with delicious home- oil festival) in Baiardo, near San now imp roving facilities for the
made ice creams. Note that in Remo, and the Festa del Basilico disabled. However, in the more
Liguria’s most historic cafés, (basil festival) in Diano Marina, old-fashioned restaurants, the
and in those in the fashionable both in May; and the famous disabled may still have difficulty
resorts, prices can be high. Sagra del Pesce (fish festival) in moving around.
See pages Camogli, in mid-May. During
202–3 for more the Festa del Limone
details on some (lemon festival), Smoking
of the region’s which is held in It has been illegal to smoke
grandest cafés. Monterosso al in any bar, café or restaurant
Mare, one of the since 2005. However, some
towns on the pretty esta blishments do have proper
Food Festivals Cinque Terre, at ventilated rooms for smokers,
Food and village Vegetable tart and focaccia, the end of May, and the no-smoking restrictions
festivals in Liguria typical produce the heaviest do not apply to outdoor tables.
provide great lemon wins a
opportunities for visitors to prize. On the last Sunday in
try the local food. Among the June, the Sagra dell’Acciuga Recommended
Restaurants
main food festivals that take (anchovy festival) takes place in
place in this region, some of Lavagna, while between 4 and The restaurant listings that follow
the highlights include: the 8 July, Sestri Levante hosts the offer Ligurian recipes, with an
Sagra delle Focaccette (focaccia Sagra del Totano (squid festival). emphasis on local produce and
At Riva Trigoso, the flavours of Mediterranean herbs.
popular Sagra del Since Liguria is located close
Bagnun (a local to the sea, plenty of seafood
dish made with restaurants are found here.
anchovies) is held Most of them are located in the
on 15 July; on the little squares of fishing villages
same day, in Diano and have outdoor seating
Borganzo, everyone allowing for a fantastic culinary
turns out for the expe rience paired with breath-
Sagra delle Trenette taking sea views. The listings
al Pesto (trenette is a cover a variety of eateries, from
traditional Ligurian the traditional trattoria to the
pasta). Finally, simple pizzeria and enoteche or
around the middle wine bar. There are also restau-
of September at rants, which serve Middle Eastern
Badalucco, around and Argentinian cuisine.
500 kg (1,100 lb) The DK Choice restaurants
of stock fish (dried are regarded as extra special.
cod) is cooked and They may have historical
distrib uted each charm, particularly high
year at the Sagra standards or be in an above
A traditional trattoria offering authentic Ligurian cuisine del Stoccafisso. average location.




184-185_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 185 09/09/16 10:44 am

186  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of the Italian Riviera

The quintessentially Mediterranean cuisine of the Italian
Riviera can be sampled in sophisticated upmarket restaur ants,
but it is best enjoyed in simple local trattorias using age-old
recipes. The hallmark flavours are the exceptionally delicate
local olive oil and herbs such as marjoram, oregano, rosemary
and sage that grow wild, perfuming the inland hills. Symbolic of
Liguria is the bright green aromatic basil that is pounded in a
mortar with garlic, olive oil, pine nuts and pecorino cheese to
produce pesto, a local speciality. Fish, either fresh, dried or
preserved in oil, is another of the region’s many culinary assets. Fresh basil

milk. Poultry is also raised houses that flank the coastline.
for meat and eggs. More than meat, or even
Olive and citrus trees, and fish, Ligurian cooking is
even vines, manage to thrive dependent on a wide range
on almost vertical terraces, of fresh vegetables, including
carved centuries ago into artichokes, pumpkins (squash)
the hillsides. The mild winter and courgettes (zucchini). Wild
climate and year-round mushrooms and herbs are
sunshine provide the perfect picked and dried to provide
growing conditions for the distinctive flavours throughout
commercial production of the year, while local almonds,
fresh produce in the green- walnuts, chestnuts and
Delicious foccacia bread made
with Ligurian olive oil Crab Clams Sea bass Sardines Mussels Octopus Prawns
Food from the Land
Liguria’s narrow belt of steeply
terraced land, sandwiched
between the sea and the
mountains, has always been
a challenge to farmers. This
is not cattle-grazing country;
lamb and goat are much
better suited to this terrain.
Menus feature lamb, kid,
hare and rabbit either stewed Salt cod
or roasted, and cheeses are
made from ewe’s and goat’s Some of the seafood to be found in a Ligurian fish market
Ligurian Dishes and Specialities
Pansoti is a type of ravioli, stuffed with spinach,
ricotta or offal and often served with a creamy
walnut sauce (salsa di noci). Meat and fish
courses include chicken or rabbit alla
cacciatore (with olives, wine and herbs),
and red mullet is braised with olives, too.
Vegetables are given the grand treatment
in torta pasqualina (Easter pie) filled with
layers of different vegetables and sometimes
egg or cheese. Many foods are cooked in
local olive oil: gattafin is fried vegetable-
Olives and olive oil filled ravioli. Friggitorie (from friggere, to fry)
sell flaky pastry pies stuffed with cheese and vegetables. Farinata is a Cuippin, from Sestri Levante, is a
pancake made from chickpea (garbanzo) flour – crispy outside and puréed soup made from fish and
moist inside. Cooked in a wood-fired oven and topped with onions, shellfish, tomatoes, parsley, wine
cheese and herbs, it is eaten by the slice as a snack. and garlic.






186-187_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 186 09/09/16 10:48 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  187



of a cross. Aristocrats and
merchants would later
modify the design to include
their family crests, using
wooden stamps made in
nearby Chiavari. Sailors
returning from long voyages
at sea would crave the taste
of fresh food. The flavourful
vegetable soup minestrone alla
genovese, was a particular
favourite, with its all-important
dollop of pesto, which was
reputedly invented to help
Boxes of fresh fish are unloaded onto a Ligurian quayside sailors avoid scurvy. The city
has also given its name to
hazelnuts are used in pasta for dried salted cod (bac-calà) fagiolini alla genovese (green
sauces, casseroles, and in dates back to the Viking traders. beans with anchovies and
cake-making. It is often served gently braised. herbs) and focaccia alla
genovese, the famous flat
Food from the Sea Genoese Food
bread made with olive oil.
Fish and seafood from the As a major port, Genoa has
Mediterranean have always always been a gateway for WHAT TO DRINK
been part of the local diet. delicacies from around the
Recently it has become more world. The dish corzetti, which Liguria’s steep terrain is not ideal
for vines, but eight DOC wines
common for restaurants to means “little crosses”, was are produced. Among the most
import some of the fish they created for Genoese crusaders; highly regarded are:
use, though mullet (cèfalo), the coin-sized discs of pasta
bream (dorata) and sea bass were stamped with the shape Pigato A light, perfumed white
wine that goes well with seafood
(spigola) are usually local. Many or farinata.
traditional dishes rely on the
“poor” fish that are so plentiful Cinque Terre Light, dry white
– such as sardines (sarde), wines from the terraces of the
octopus (polpo), squid region of the same name.
(calamari), cuttlefish (seppia), Sciacchetrà A delicious sweet
mussels (cozze) and clams variety of Cinque Terre wine with
(vongole). Cooked with olive oil, an intense, flowery scent.
vegetables and herbs, they are Rossese A light but full-
made into soups, stews and flavoured red wine, often known
sauces for pasta. Anchovies as Dolceacqua.
(acchiughe) are a staple, and Ormeasco di Pornassio A rich
are used fresh or preserved in Fresh artichokes on a market stall on the red wine with red berry perfume.
salt or oil. The Ligurian passion Italian Riviera













Trenette con pesto, a Genoese La Cima is poached veal stuffed Pandolce is a cross between
speciality, is flat noodles with a with meat, cheese, egg and cake and bread, with raisins,
sauce of basil, garlic, pine nuts vegetables, usually eaten cold candied fruit, fennel seeds,
and olive oil. in thin slices. pine nuts and orange water.






186-187_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 187 09/09/16 10:48 am

188  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

home-made pastas. Gaia also has Price Guide
Genoa a good list of local wines. Great Prices are based on a three-course meal
Il Centro Storico service and friendly atmosphere. per person, with a half-bottle of house
wine, including tax and service.
Briciole € Da Genio € € under €35
Pizzeria Map 3 B3 Seafood Map 6 E5 €€ €35–€50
Via Brigata Liguria 67r, 16121 Salita San Leonardo 61r, 16128 €€€ over €50
Tel 010 58 16 54 Closed Sun Tel 010 58 84 63 Closed Sun:
Typical fresh home-made focaccia, open for groups only by reservation Ombre Rosse €
pies and desserts, all accom pa - Enjoy Ligurian cuisine with all its Seafood Map 2 F4
nied by a good sel ection of beers. specialities: trenette al pesto (pasta Vico Indoratori 22, 16100
Products of Ligurian cuisine can with pesto sauce), dried cod, and Tel 010 275 76 08 Closed Sun
be pur chased here. pansoti (a type of ravioli) cooked lunch
with fresh ingredients. This is a great place for aperitivo,
Cafè Klainguti € dinner and Sunday brunch. The
Bar Map 5 C3 Il Genovese € food here is made with fresh
Piazza Soziglia 98, 16123 Local Map 3 B2 ingredients. Extensive wine list.
Tel 010 860 26 28 Closed Sun Via Galata 35r, 16121
Set in an 18th-century Baroque Tel 010 869 29 37 Closed Sun Ristorante Yuan €
hall in the Old Town. Do not Il Genovese revisits traditional Chinese Map 6 D4
forget to try the Zena, a Genoese cuisine. Mesciua (soup Via Ettore Vernazza 8, 16123
zabaglione-filled pastry. with chick peas, cannellini Tel 010 570 23 27 Closed Mon
beans and farro), fried fish and Sample sushi, prawn ravioli,
DK Choice gnocchi with pesto are some tem pura and chicken with
of the dishes that feature on the
chestnut, all in a refined, elegant
Caffè degli Specchi € menu. Ligurian and international atmo sphere at a reasonable price.
Bar Map 5 C4 wines on offer.
Salita Pollaioli 43r, 16123 Sa' Pesta €
Tel 010 246 81 93 Closed Sun In Vino Veritas € Trattoria Map 5 C4
This traditional bar and café, Mediterranean Map 5 A4 Via dei Giustiniani 16r, 16123
located downtown in the narrow Vico delle Vele 27r, 16128 Tel 010 246 83 36 Closed Sun
streets of Genoa, serves delicious Tel 010 247 22 93 Simple trattoria with decor typical
snacks and excellent coffee. It Refined but informal atmosphere. of old Genoese palaces. Taste the
attracts a young crowd, particu- The star of the menu is the risotto, special farinata, a pancake made
larly during the aperitivo hour, followed by a meat dish. There from chickpea flour. It is advisable
and offers good value for money. are more than 70 Italian wines to book on weekends.
There is a lovely Art Nouveau for diners to choose from.
room upstairs and an elegant Tristano & Isotta €
ground floor dining room. Nabil € Pizzeria Map 5 C3
Middle Eastern Map 5 C3 Vico del Fieno 33r, 16123
Vico Falamonica 21r, 16123 Tel 010 247 43 01 Closed Mon
Gaia € Tel 010 247 61 14 Closed Sat This is a pleasant pizzeria offering
Local Map 2 F3 lunch, Sun & Mon vege tarian and non-vege tar ian
Vico dell'Argento 13r, 16100 Explore tastes from Palestine menus, gluten-free, fresh pasta
Tel 010 246 16 29 and Jordan. Try the mansaf – the and home-made desserts. Try
This small trattoria serves generous Jordanian national lamb dish, wood-oven pizzas with charming
portions of excellent Genoese with pine nuts, toasted almonds, names such as "Tristano e Isotta"
dishes with fresh seafood and rice and yogurt. or "Centro Storico".
Vegia Zena €
Local Map 5 B2
Vico del Serriglio 15r, 16124
Tel 010 251 33 32 Closed Mon
Situated near the old port, Vegia
Zena ("old Genoa") is a historic
res taurant best-known for its
friendly atmo sphere. It offers fresh
fish such as gallinelle, cod fish and
stockfish. Try sea food ravioli or
trenette with pesto sauce.
Il Brigantino €€
Seafood Map 5 A2
Molo Ponte Morosini 16 , 16100
Tel 010 26 78 17 Closed Tue
& Wed dinner
Ligurian and Italian cuisine with
fish of the day and seasonal pro-
ducts. Enjoy coffee or an aperitivo
Outdoor tables at Caffè degli Specchi, a perfect spot for people-watching in the tranquillity of the pier.

188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 188 09/09/16 10:44 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  189




















Dining room at Zeffirino, a favourite among celebrities
Cantine Squarciafico €€ the champagne menu are fixed. Le Rune €
Local Map 5 C3 The restaurant also serves a wide Seafood Map 6 D3
Piazza Invrea 3r, 16123 range of quick snacks. Salita Inferiore Sant'Anna 13, 16123
Tel 010 247 08 23 Closed Two weeks Tel 010 59 49 51 Closed Sat
in Aug & one week in Jan Da Toto €€ & Sun lunch
This Ligurian wine bar, just Seafood Map 5 A2 Le Rune serves a variety of
behind the cathedral, serves Molo Ponte Morosini traditional fish dishes, good
local specia lities, including stracci Sud 19–20, 16121 wines and desserts based on
(a type of lasagne). Tel 010 254 38 79 Closed Sun Ligurian recipes with Italian
only by reservation influences. Various fixed menus
Maxelâ €€ Starters here include original fish available at lunch, dinner and
Trattoria Map 5 C2 pie, and home-made bricchetti at weekends.
Vico Inferiore del Ferro 9r, 16123 (short thick pasta) served with a
Tel 010 247 42 09 Closed Sun courgette sauce. Da Toto also Il Cadraio €€
Partly a butcher's, partly a casual serves delicious fish dishes Winery Map 5 C2
trattoria, Maxelâ is housed in a prepared with Ligurian recipes. Vico dietro il Coro della Maddalena
former stable dating back to 26r, 16124
1790. Meat is served raw, grilled, Zeffirino €€€ Tel 010 247 40 95 Closed Mon
pan-fried and fried. Good value Innovative Map 6 F4 & Sun dinner
fixed menu at lunch. Valid Italian Via XX Settembre 20, 16121 Housed in a former stable, this
wine labels. Tel 010 570 59 39 restaurant offers a selection of
Three types of fixed menus are more than 300 fine wines. There
Panson €€ offered: a welcoming, a tasting is a regional tasting menu.
Seafood Map 5 C4 and an à la carte menu. Try the Gluten-free courses are available.
Piazza delle Erbe 5r, 16123 pansoti with pesto, and the fresh
Tel 010 246 89 03 Closed Sun fish courses based on the daily Europa €€
dinner catch. There is also a bar for Local Map 6 D3
Panson serves typical local aperitivo or after-dinner drinks. Galleria G. Mazzini 53r, 16121
cuisine, combining fresh Ligurian Tel 010 58 12 59 Closed Sun
fish and herbs. Try the basil Le Strade Nuove Set in a colonnaded arcade in
gnocchi in prawn sauce, or the the city centre, Europa has a fixed
pansoti (a type of ravioli) in Le Mamme del Clan € lunch menu. Items on the menu
nut sauce. Local Map 6 D3 include home-made ravioli,
Salita Pallavicini 16r, 16123 pesto and fresh fish dishes,
Da Rina €€ Tel 010 25 28 82 Closed Sun served with olive oil.
Seafood Map 2 F5 Sophisticated decor with arched
Mura delle Grazie 3r, 16128 vaulted ceilings and soft lighting. DK Choice
Tel 010 246 64 75 Closed Mon Le Mamme offers simple cooking
Serves traditional Genoese focused on Ligurian cuisine. Il Genovino €€
cuisine as well as new creations Catch the Thursday evening Local Map 3 C1
based on local produce. A house cabaret and DJ set on Saturdays. 3 Via alla Stazione per Casale
speciality is fish with anchovies, Tel 010 831 1362 Closed Sat
mushrooms and vegetables. Da Maria € lunch and Sun dinner
Trattoria Map 6 D3 Il Genovino offers great
Soho Restaurant and Vico Testadoro 14, 16100 value for money, serving
Fish Work €€ Tel 010 58 10 80 Closed Sun excellent Genovese cuisine
Seafood Map 2 F4 Simple family-run trattoria, with in a warm atmo sphere. Dishes
Via al Ponte Calvi 20r, 16123 focaccias, soups and pasta dishes are reason ably priced, and
Tel 010 869 25 48 available. Try the trenette (flat the restaurant has a good
Choose your fish from the daily noodles) with pesto and the selection of wines.
catch on display. The tasting and excellent stuffed anchovies.
For more information on types of restaurants see p185
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 189 09/09/16 10:44 am

190  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Le Cicale in Città €€
Local Map 3 B4
Via Macaggi 53r, 16100
Tel 010 59 25 81 Closed Sat
lunch & Sun
Centrally located restaurant
offering interesting choices,
including sea bass with pota -
toes, lemon sauce, peanuts
and laurel, or a small pork fillet
in lettuce sauce.
Edilio €€
Piedmontese Map D3
Corso A. De Stefanis 104r, 16139
Tel 010 81 12 60
Enjoy a mix of Ligurian and
Piedmontese cuisine. The restau-
rant's special ities include funghi
e tartufi (mush rooms and truffles),
Simple decor at Edilio, known for its Piedmontese cuisine stuffed anchovies and green
Further Afield lovely garden terrace at this gnocchi in velvety lobster sauce.
Da ù Braxèa € restaurant. There is also a Enoteca Sola €€
Pizzeria Map D3 separate menu, featuring fish Winery Map 3 C4
Via Degola 2b, 16151 dishes, available if you book Via Carlo Barabino 120r, 16129
Tel 010 469 49 23 Closed Mon in advance. Tel 010 59 45 13 Closed Sun
A brasserie, pizzeria, bar and A varied Ligurian menu of meat
restaurant. Sample Scottish and Sapori di Sori € and fish, served with a wide
Argentinian meat and Ligurian Focacceria Map D3 selection of local and Italian
and Italian cuisine. More than 50 Via Pionieri e Aviatori wines. It is best to book ahead.
types of pizza, farinata (chickpea- d'Italia 109, 16154
flour pancake) and cheese Tel 010 651 93 79 Closed Mon Da Giacomo €€
focaccia to choose from. in winter Seafood Map D3
Authentic cheese focaccia and Corso Italia 1r, 16129
Osteria Da O Colla € Ligurian cuisine, and a panoramic Tel 010 31 10 41
Local Map D3 view of the port. Good value for Excellent quality restaurant with
Via alla Chiesa di Murta 10, 16162 money in a friendly atmosphere. affordable prices. The fish and
Localita’ Balzaneto seafood dishes are highly recom-
Tel 010 740 85 7 9 Closed Mon A Due Passi dal Mare €€ mended, as are the wines. Ample
& Sun dinner Traditional Map 4 D4 parking available.
Excellent home-cooked Ligurian Via Casaregis 52r, 16129
cuisine, 8 miles (5 km) from the Tel 010 58 85 43 Closed Mon Gran Gotto €€
city centre, but well worth the Specials include tuna tartare with Local Map 3 C4
taxi fare. julienne artichokes, ravioli stuffed Viale Brigata Bisagno 69r , 16129
with ricotta and arti chokes with Tel 010 56 43 44 Closed Sat lunch
Osteria dell'Acqua Santa € prawn sauce. Don't miss the & Sun
Local Map D3 Bavarian coffee dessert. There is Traditional Genoese dishes with
Via Acquasanta 281,16100 also an excellent wine list. tasting menus at lunch and dinner.
Tel 010 63 80 35 Closed Mon The menu often changes to adapt
Try the specials, which include L'Angolo della Lucania €€ to the fresh fish or meat available.
carciofi in umido ripieni (stuffed Mediterranean Map 3 C4
artichokes), tagliolini con funghi Via della Libertà 112r, 16129 Osvaldo Antica Trattoria €€
(pasta in mush room sauce) as well Tel 392 981 57 87 Closed Mon Seafood Map D3
as pesto lasagne. Good selections dinner & Tue Via della Casa 2r, 16100 Boccadasse,
of cheese and wine. A charming family-run restaurant Tel 010 377 18 81 Closed Mon
that offering cuisine from the (except mid-Sep–mid-Jun at lunch)
Piuma € Basilicata region. Good fish A cosy, family-run restaurant
Focacceria Map D3 courses and a delicious cold/hot located on a small square. The
Via Tabarca, 16147 dessert with ice cream and seafood and pasta dishes here
Tel 010 999 03 37 Closed Mon hot chocolate. are simple, but flavourful. Try the
& lunch frittura mista (plate of fried fish).
This focacceria also serves a wide Bruxaboschi €€
variety of first and second courses, Local Map D3 La Pineta €€
with a limited but good wine list. Via F. Mignone 8, 16133 San Desiderio Mediterranean Map D3
Tel 010 345 03 02 Closed Mon Via Gualco 82, 16165 Struppa
Ristorante Chiara € & Sun dinner Tel 010 80 27 72 Closed Mon
Pizzeria Map D3 Sit outside or in the relaxed & Sun dinner
Via Padre Garre' 14, 16010 dining room at this family-run Located at the edge of a pine
Tel 010 967 70 40 Closed Mon restau rant and enjoy Ligurian forest, La Pineta specializes in
& Tue dinner during winter spe cialities. Home-made pasta grilled meat and game. The
Diners can sample grilled meat, with mush rooms are among home-made pastas and desserts
pizza and Ligurian cuisine on a the favourites. are excellent. Parking available.
Key to Price Guide see p188
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 190 09/09/16 10:44 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  191

Pintori €€ Santa Chiara €€€ BOGLIASCO: Il Tipico €€
Sardinian Map D3 Local Map D3 Seafood Map D4
Via San Bernardo 68r, 16123 Via al capo di Santa Chiara 69, Via Poggia Favoro 20, 16032 San
Tel 010 275 75 07 Closed Sun 16146 Boccadasse Bernardo
& Mon Tel 010 307 51 55 Closed Mon Tel 010 347 07 54 Closed Mon
A local favourite, Pintori offers This restaurant has a lovely sea­cliff Housed in an old maritime
innovative Sardinian and Ligurian terrace overlooking an ancient fortress that overlooks the Golfo
flavours. Specials include vege­ fishing village. Try Ligurian spe­ Paradiso, Il Tipico serves Ligurian
tarian dishes such as torta di cialities like trofiette (flat spaghetti), fish and sea food specialities.
verdura (vegetable flan), as well al pesto and dried cod alla Ligure, Sample fresh raw fish for
as maialino sardo (Sardinian pork). and Bavarian cream with passion appetizers, the superb risotto,
fruit. Great selection of wines. mixed­fish grill and deli cious
Toe Drue €€ desserts. Two fixed menus – a
Innovative Mediterranean Map D3 tasting menu and a tourist
Via C. Corsi 44r, 16154 Sestri Ponente menu – are on offer.
Tel 010 650 01 00 Closed Sat Riviera di Levante
lunch & Sun CAMOGLI: La Cucina
Cuisine based on fresh seafood AMEGLIA: Locanda dei Poeti € di Nonna Nina €
with dishes like cappon magro (fish Pizzeria Map F5 Local Map D4
and vegetables), pesto and a good Piazza della Libertà 4, 19030 Via Molfino 126, 16032
choice of Piedmontese meat. Tel 0187 60 80 68 Closed Tue Tel 0185 77 38 35 Closed Wed,
& lunch in Oct–Feb Nov & 10 days in Jan
Antica Osteria del Bai €€€ A café, wine bar and pizzeria, This homely restaurant is
Seafood Map D3 Locanda dei Poeti also hosts art located on a picturesque hill. Sit
Via Quarto 12, 16148 Quarto exhibitions. Everything served inside in the clean, airy dining
dei Mille here, from appetizers to desserts, room or outside on the terrace.
Tel 010 38 74 78 Closed Mon is entirely home­made. All products used are locally
An ancient osteria, in a lovely sourced. The focaccia, cakes and
romantic location close to the AMEGLIA: Da Mauro Ricciardi Ligurian pasta are home­made.
sea. Serves fresh fish and seafood alla Locanda dell’Angelo €€€
in traditional Ligurian style. Mediterranean Map F5 CAMOGLI: Rosa €€
Viale XXV Aprile 60, 19031 Seafood Map D4
Astor €€€ Tel 0187 643 91 Closed Mon & Tue Via Ruffini 13, 16032
Local Map D3 Creative Mediterranean dishes Tel 0185 77 34 11 Closed Tue
Via delle Palme 16-18, 16167 Nervi based on selected ingredients & Wed lunch
Tel 010 32 90 11 from the local area and beyond. Explore seafood and pasta
Fine Ligurian cuisine and good Enjoy a meal in the beautiful specialities in this Art Nouveau­
wines served in a simple, elegant garden. The staff is friendly and style villa res taurant, while
setting. The house special is the the service good. enjoying stunning views of
pansotti al sugo di noci (fresh pasta Camogli bay. Gluten­free and
filled with ricotta cheese, herbs BOGLIASCO: Agriturismo vegetarian dishes are available.
and lemon zest). le Pale €
Agritourism Map D4 CASTELNUOVO DI MAGRA:
€€
DK Choice Via Pale 5, 16031 Da Armanda Map F5
Local
Tel 010 347 03 88 Closed Mon–Thu
Baldin €€€ A fixed menu with appetizers, Piazza Garibaldi 6, 19030
Innovative Map D3 vegetables, dessert, coffee, water Tel 0187 67 44 10 Closed Tue eve
Piazza Tazzoli 20r, 16154 and liqueurs. Everything is home­ & Wed
Sestri Ponente made. Children under 10 eat for Fish and traditional dishes all
Tel 010 653 14 00 Closed Mon half­price. accompanied by good wine labels
& Sun from the area. Great focaccia and
Contemporary decor and 17th­ local ham. Simple decor and
century vaulted ceilings mix panoramic views.
with ease at this innovative res­
tau rant. The chef offers creative CHIAVARI: Lord Nelson €€€
cuisine but also revisits some of Innovative Map E4
the Genoese classics. Excel lent Corso Valparaiso 27, 16043
dishes that incorporate fish, wild Tel 0185 30 25 95 Closed Wed
mushrooms as well as truffles A pub and inn with five rooms,
have earned the eatery a traditional decor, a well­stocked
Michelin star. Superb choco late wine cellar and a sum mer terrace.
desserts to tempt chocolate Fresh fish and light pasta dishes
lovers. Best to book in advance. feature on the menu, along with
à la carte dishes.
Le Perlage €€€ CORNIGLIA: Ristorante Cecio €€
Innovative Map 3 C5 Traditional Map E4
Via Mascherpa 4r, 16129 Via Serra 58, 19010
Tel 010 58 85 51 Closed Sun Tel 0187 81 20 43 Closed Wed
An elegant but welcoming Housed in a former stone­built
restaurant, offering innovative winery with a terrace overlooking
dishes blended with traditional Charming outdoor seating at Osvaldo the sea. Dishes are made using
Ligurian cuisine. A good wine list. Antica Trattoria trad itional Ligurian recipes.
For more information on types of restaurants see p185
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 191 09/09/16 10:44 am

192  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS




















Sophisticated and tasteful interiors at La Brinca
DEIVA MARINA: La Lampara € LAVAGNA: Raieü €€ restaurant dates back to 1800.
Seafood Map E4 Seafood Map E4 Dishes on the menu include
Lungomare Colombo 17, 19013 Via Milite Ignoto 25, 16033 gattafin (large fried ravioli with
Tel 0187 81 58 71 Tel 0185 39 01 45 Closed Mon herbs, eggs, onion and cheese).
Set on the seafront, La Lampara The fresh fish that is served here
offers fresh sea food. It also serves is caught by the owners. On the LEVANTO: Tumelin €€€
grilled meats and quick menus for menu is hand­made ravioli (raieü Seafood Map E4
those wishing to return to the sea. in Genoese dialect), as well as fish Via Grillo 32, 19015
gnocchi, pansoti, mussels and Tel 0187 80 83 79 Closed Thu except
LA SPEZIA: La Pia € sea food soup. Parking is available. from mid-Jun–mid-Sep
Pizzeria Map F4 Start the meal with a fish hors
Via Magenta 12, 19124 LERICI: Le Bontà Nascoste €€ d’oeuvre. Follow this up with
Tel 0187 73 99 99 Closed Sun Traditional Map F5 pasta and shrimps or Tumelin’s
Excellent farinata, focaccia and Via Cavour 52, 19032 tagliolini, or seafood risotto.
pizza can be eaten in the Tel 0187 96 55 00 Closed Tue Guests can hand­pick their
restaurant or wrapped to take & Wed at lunch own fish for the main course.
away. This restaurant offers some of the
best pizza and farinata in the area. MANAROLA:
LA SPEZIA: Antica Trattoria Other specials to look out for are Marina Piccola €€
Sevieri €€ pasta with scampi and beef fillet Seafood Map F4
Trattoria Map F4 in pepper sauce. Via Lo Scalo 16, 19010
Via delle Canonica 13, 19121 Tel 0187 92 09 23 Closed Tue
Tel 0187 75 17 76 Closed Sun LERICI: Il Frantoio €€ Enjoy great views of the village
Antica offers a varied menu, Traditional Fine Cuisine Map F5 and the sea, while savouring
which includes marinated ancho­ Via Cavour 19, 19032 fish soup made from the local
vies with lemon sauce, or home­ Tel 0187 96 41 74 catch. Regional seafood dishes,
made gnocchi with scampi and Il Frantoio is housed in a 200­year­ various antipasti and mixed
tomato sauce. Extensive list of old former olive oil factory grilled fish are also served here.
Italian and international wines (frantoio). The restaurant serves
also on offer. seafood appetizers, including MANAROLA:
carpaccio of swordfish, as well La Scogliera €€
DK Choice as mari nated anchovies. Local Map F4
Via Birolli 103, 19017
LAVAGNA: La Brinca €€ LERICI: L’Orto di Ameste €€ Tel 0187 92 07 47 Closed Thu
Innovative Map E4 Mediterranean Map F5 A pretty, family­run restaurant,
58 Località Campo di Ne,16040 Casamento 18, La Serra , 19032 La Scogliera offers Ligurian
Ne in Val Graveglia Tel 0187 96 46 28 Closed Mon cuisine. It is renowned for its
Tel 0185 33 74 80 Closed Mon except from Jul–Sep seafood specialities, such as
& lunch from Tue–Fri The decor here is simple but linguine with batti batti (sand
Tucked away in the small village elegant. Fresh fish, home­made lobster) and grilled octopus.
of Campo di Ne, La Brinca is pasta, fantastic desserts and large
sur rounded by olive groves and portions are available. The house MONEGLIA: Le Palme €€
vine yards. It offers country fare wine is also excellent. Seafood Map E4
based on local and sea sonal Via Longhi 4, 16030
products. A speciality is noix LEVANTO: Cavour €€ Tel 0185 493 83
de veal served with a pine­nut Trattoria Map E4 This family­run restaurant is
sauce. This is a family­run Piazza Cavour 1, 19015 one of the oldest in this small
res taurant with its own oil Tel 0187 80 77 86 Closed Mon village, and offers delicious
press. Tasting menus and & Dec–Jan fish­based Ligurian cuisine.
vegetarian menus are available. A typical trattoria specializing In summer, try to dine on
in local fish dishes. The ori gi nal the verandah on the square.
Key to Price Guide see p188
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 192 09/09/16 10:44 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  193

MONEGLIA: La Ruota €€€ PORTOFINO: Da Puny €€
Mediterranean Local Map D4
Innovative Map E4 Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta 5, 16034
Via per Lemeglio 6, 16030 Tel 0185 26 90 37 Closed Thu
Tel 0185 495 65 Closed Wed Set in the harbour square. Specials
La Ruota offers a set menu such as the pasta in pesto corto
that includes seafood, pasta, (basil, cheese, pine nuts and
vegeta bles and starters, such as tomato) and the house antipasti
squid with mush rooms. Try are excellent.
the special piatto mediterraneo
(baby squid, toma toes, potatoes, PORTOFINO: Chuflay,
parsley and olive oil) and crêpe Splendido Mare €€€
suzette. Local Map D4
Via Roma 2, 16034
MONTEROSSO AL MARE: Tel 0185 26 78 02
Miky €€ This restaurant offers local dishes
Seafood Map E4 of suberb quality, such as fresh
Via Fegina 104, 16030 clam soup with pine nuts, black
Tel 0187 81 76 08 Closed Tue olives and marjoram. Excel lent
A characteristic seafront bistro. selec tion of wines.
Try the linguine with lobster or
the grilled calamari. Ask to be PORTOVENERE: Il Timone €
seated in the garden among Pizzeria Map F5
the jasmine and wisteria. Via Olivo 29, 19025
Tel 347 260 10 08 Closed Tue Pretty terrace with a lovely view of the
PORTOFINO: Da u Batti €€ This cosy, waterfront bistro offers Piazza at Chuflay, Portofino
Seafood Map D4 excellent farinata, focaccia and
Vico Nuovo 18, 16034 pizza. The à la carte menu also seafood dishes, accompanied
Tel 0185 26 93 79 Closed Mon features authentic Ligurian meat by a good selec tion of wines.
& Nov–mid-Jan and fish dishes, delicious salads
A chic and intimate restaurant, and local and Italian wines. RAPALLO: U Giancu €
Da u Batti is located in one of Local Map E4
Liguria’s most elegant towns. PORTOVENERE: Le Bocche €€ Via San Massimo 78, 16035 Localita’
The menu offers exceptional Local Map F5 San Massimo
fish dishes, such as the popular Calata Doria 102, 19025 Tel 0185 26 05 05 Closed Thu,
Scampi alla Batti. Tel 0187 79 06 22 Closed Tue lunch & last two weeks of Dec
from Sep–Apr & Jan Decorated with framed cartoon
PORTOFINO: El Portico €€ Located on the seafront. Savour drawings and comic strips on
Pizzeria Map D4 delicately prepared Ligurian fish the walls, this simple restaurant
Via Roma 21, 16034 dishes served on shaded out door serves up typical Ligurian spe­
Tel 0185 26 92 39 Closed Tue tables, over looking the town of cialities, and com ple ments
An informal, pleasant and Portovenere. these with fresh vegeta bles
affordable pizzeria that offers from the garden.
excellent views across Portofino PORTOVENERE: La Chiglia €€
harbour. Pizzas are baked in the Local Map F5 RAPALLO: Elite €€
traditional manner in old tins. Via Olivo 317, 19025 Traditional Map E4
Pesto accom panies most dishes. Tel 0187 79 21 79 Closed Wed Via Milite Ignoto 19, 16035
A popular restaurant, located Tel 0185 505 51 Closed Wed
under vast umbrella pines with Family­run restaurant with a small
stunning views of the island of hotel above. Simple dishes such
Palmaria. The menu consists as pansoti, black ravioli filled with
of reinvented Ligurian dishes, fish, rocket and large prawns are
pri marily seafood. There is also on the menu.
a good wine list.
RAPALLO: Luca €€
PORTOVENERE: Da Iseo €€ Seafood Map E4
Trattoria Map F5 Via Langano 32, Porto Turistico
Calata Doria 9, 19025 Carlo Riva, 16035
Tel 0187 79 06 10 Closed Wed Tel 0185 603 23 Closed Tue
& 20 days in Nov This is an ideal place to sample
On the waterfront with panora mic seafood specialities such as pep­
views, this trattoria serves typical pered mussels, lemon anchovies,
fish dishes. black dumplings with shrimp and
scampi with lemon.
RAPALLO: Hostaria Vecchia
Rapallo € RAPALLO: La Nave €€
Seafood Map E4 Seafood Map E4
Via Cairoli 10, 16035 Via Pomaro 15, 16035
Tel 0185 500 53 Closed Mon; San Michele di Pagana
beginning of Dec to first week of Feb Tel 0185 66 95 02 Closed Wed
This old tavern has been On the beach near Rapallo. Try
Framed cartoon drawings adorn the walls transformed into an elegant the tasty frittura di pesce (fried
of U Giancu, Rapallo restau rant that offers creative fish) and home­made pesto sauce.
For more information on types of restaurants see p185
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 193 09/09/16 10:44 am

194  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

RAPALLO: Trattoria Ö Bansin €€ SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE: TELLARO: Locanda Miranda €€
Mediterranean Map E4 Trattoria dei Pescatori €€ Seafood Map F5
Via Venezia 105, 16035 Trattoria Map E4 Via Fiascherino 92, 19030
Tel 0185 23 11 19 Closed Mon Via Bottaro 43-45, 16038 Tel 0187 96 81 30 Closed Mon
dinner & Sun lunch in summer Tel 0185 28 67 47 Closed Tue The creative menu consists of
Traditional Ligurian dishes such except Jul & Aug seafood specialities and deli ­
as trenette al pesto, fried ancho­ This is a good place to sample cious fish dishes. It also has a
vies and dried cod are available at the local pansoti (stuffed pasta seven­room B&B with plenty
this trattoria. An economical fixed in nut sauce), or the fish from of rustic charm.
menu is also available through­ the local fisheries. Home­made
out the week during lunch hours. pasta and desserts. VERNAZZA: Gambero Rosso €€
Innovative Map E4
RECCO: Manuelina €€ SARZANA: Taverna Piazza Marconi 7, 19018
Innovative Map D4 Napoleone €€ Tel 0187 81 22 65 Closed Thu
Via Roma 296, 16036 Traditional Map F5 This place is well­known for its
Tel 0185 741 28 Closed Wed Via Bonaparte 16, 19068 imaginative and creative cuisine,
This restaurant is renowned Tel 0187 62 79 74 Closed Mon which pri ma rily consists of sea­
for its cheese focaccia. Try the Try the exotic seasonal, regional food dishes based on the
marinated anchovies with vege­ dishes, such as artichoke pie with Ligurian tradition. The fish ravioli
tables, and the black rice with saffron sauce, stuffed truffles and and lemon risotto are delicious.
coconut cream dessert. ravioli with pistacchio sauce.
Excellent choice of wine.
RIOMAGGIORE: Dau Cila €
Winery Map F5 SESTRI LEVANTE: Riviera di Ponente
Via San Giacomo 65, 19017 Portobello €€
Tel 0187 76 00 32 Closed Mon Innovative Seafood Map E4 ALASSIO: Palma €€€
Home­made pasta and local Via Portobello 16, 16039 Innovative Map B4
dishes are served with an excep­ Tel 0185 415 66 Closed Wed Via Cavour 5, 17021
tional selection of Italian wines. This restaurant overlooks the Tel 0182 64 03 14 Closed Wed &
Try the Cinque Terre wines and the magnificent beach of the Baia Nov–Mar from Mon–Fri
Sciacchetrà dessert wine. Good del Silenzio. The cui sine, mainly Housed in an 18th­century
service and friendly atmosphere. seafood, combines the delicious palazzo, this Michelin­star
flavours of Ligurian tradition restaurant offers specials that
RIOMAGGIORE: Cappun with Mediterranean tastes. include seared tuna with goat’s
Magru €€€ cheese, or buffalo mozzarella flan
Traditional Map F5 SESTRI LEVANTE: Polpo with orange, tomato and red
Via Volastra 19, 19017 Località Groppo Mario €€€ pepper sauce.
Tel 0187 92 05 63 Closed Mon & Tue Seafood Map E4
The menu changes each day Via XXV Aprile 163, 16039 ALBENGA: Lo Scoglio €€
according to the fish and produce Tel 0185 48 02 03 Closed Mon Seafood Map B4
avail able in the local market. The Set in a former pope's summer Viale Che Guevara 40, 17031
Sea Tasting Menu offers good residence dating from the 16th Tel 0182 54 18 93 Closed Mon
value. Book in advance. century, Polpo Mario serves An unpretentious restaurant built
Genoese seafood specialities. on a small pier. No written menu
SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE: The proprie tor's boat brings in available – simply walk in and ask
Cinzia e Mario € the daily catch. Smart and chic, for the daily specials. The fish is
Seafood Map E4 this restaurant has a beautiful excellent, especially the sword­
Via Palestro 6, 16038 sum mer terrace and a good fish and the cod tartare. Enjoy the
Tel 0185 28 75 05 Closed Thu wine list. bar on the beach in the summer.
Four different tasting menus,
together with à la carte dishes
and a variety of pizzas.
SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE:
La Paranza €
Traditional Map E4
Via Jacopo Ruffini 46, 16038
Tel 0185 28 36 86
Savour some of the best seafood in
the gulf in a simple, cosy setting.
In addition to a tasting menu, the
restaurant offers a "tourist menu",
which includes a variety of
Ligurian and Genoese dishes.
SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE:
Oca Bianca €€
Meat Map E4
Via XXV Aprile 21, 16038
Tel 0185 28 84 11 Closed Mon
A great selection of various types
of meat, as well as excel lent veg­
e table and cheese dishes. Polpo Mario, famous for its traditional Genoese recipes, Sestri Levante
Key to Price Guide see p188

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  195

ALBENGA: Babette €€€
Local Map B4
Via Michelangelo 17, 17031
Tel 0182 54 45 56 Closed Tue
Babette is a perfect place for
a lunch break or a gour met
dinner, with tasting and chil -
dren’s menus at lunch. The
Mediterranean fish fantasy,
drizzled with olive oil and
marjoram, should not be missed.
ALBENGA: Il Pernambucco €€€
Local Map B4
Viale Italia 35, 17031
Tel 0182 534 58 Closed Wed
Good choice of refined fish and
meat dishes feature on the menu
here. The restaurant has an
extensive international wine list
with more than 400 labels on Smart, subtle decor at U Fundegu, Albisola Superiore
offer, includ ing its own.
ANDORA: Casa del Priore € BAIARDO: Armonia dei Sapori €
ALBISSOLA MARINA: Brasserie Map B4 Local Map A4
La Caravella €€ Via Castello 34, 17051 Via Roma 124 18031
Seafood Map C4 Tel 0182 873 30 Closed Mon Tel 0184 67 32 40 Closed Wed
Piazza dei Leuti 5, 17012 Casa del Priore is set in a former This restaurant offers Ligurian
Tel 019 48 13 38 Closed Thu medieval Benedictine hilltop and Sardinian specialities, as well
Simple restaurant where visitors monastery and enjoys stunning as pizza. Enjoy the view of the
can enjoy fresh seafood and views. There is a res taurant, Alps from either the dining room
generous portions. The specials brasserie and piano bar. Fish or the verandah. The delicious
include seafood risotto and fish dishes, shellfish, and foie gras fruit tart is prepared with fresh
ravioli. Good selection of desserts. are creatively com bined with sea sonal fruits.
It is best to book in advance. seasonal ingredients. Wine list
includes more than 400 labels. BERGEGGI: Claudio €€€
ALBISSOLA MARINA: T21.9 €€€ Seafood Map C4
Mediterranean Map C3 ARENZANO: L’Agueta Via XXV Aprile 37, 17028
Corso Bigliati 70, 17012 du Sciria €€ Tel 019 85 97 50 Closed Mon
Tel 019 400 45 43 Closed Thu Traditional Map C4 An elegant fish and shellfish
& Fri lunch Via Pecorara 18, 16011 restaurant in a 25-room hotel
Three tasting menus on offer as Tel 010 911 07 62 Closed Mon with spectacular sea views. Try the
well as a low-cost menu. Some The menu is set according to a bouquet of shellfish with citrus
of the best dishes include fish in specific theme, ranging from fruits and Mediterranean herbs.
cham pagne sauce and home- grilled fish to game dishes. For
made focaccia. children, there is a fixed menu DK Choice
at half price.
ALBISOLA SUPERIORE: BORDIGHERA: Magiargé Vino
U Fundegu €€ ARENZANO: Il Portichetto €€ e Cucina €
Traditional Map C3 Pizzeria Map C4 Local Map A5
Via Spotorno 87, 17013 Piazza del Centro 12, 16011 Piazza Padre Giacomo Viale 1,
Tel 019 528 22 86 Closed Wed from Tel 010 913 53 09 Closed Tue 18012
Sep–Apr; May–Oct at lunch except & Wed Tel 0184 26 29 46 Closed Mon
Sat & Sun Il Portichetto is well-known except in Aug
Located in the ancient vaulted among pizza lovers, but also Located in the historic centre,
out building of a castle, U Fundegu offers an ample choice of fresh, Magiargé Vino e Cucina has a
has an elegant and refined home-made pasta dishes – most warm ambience. Dishes and
atmosphere. Typical Ligurian accompanied by fish sauces. Try specials include roasted local
special ities that range from fish appetizers such as tuna tartare, lamb, salted cod, artichokes
to vegetables, and delicious or classic dishes such as octo pus from Albenga and pesto lasagna.
desserts, feature on the menu. with potatoes and farinata. Tables are set out in the square in
summer. Booking recommended.
ALTARE: Quintilio € ARMA DI TAGGIA:
Piedmontese/Local Map C3 La Conchiglia €€€
Via Gramsci 23, 17041 Innovative Map A5 BORDIGHERA: Agua €€
Tel 019 580 00 Closed Mon Via Lungomare 33, 18011 Seafood Map A5
& Sun dinner Tel 0184 431 69 Closed Wed Lungomare Argentina 3, 18012
Recipes of the Ligurian and the & Thu lunch Tel 0184 426 21 08
Piedmontese traditions are re- Here diners can explore cuisine This lovely, seafront restaurant
inter preted using fresh ingredi- based on local and sea sonal offers wonderful, diverse dishes
ents. Mushrooms and truffles pro ducts. Try the San Remo ranging from grilled calamari
avail able in season. Try stuffed spe ciality of prawns on a bed with artichokes to pan-seared
peppers, arti choke tart and of beans, or the artichoke-filled tuna. Alfresco dining is available
pansoti (stuffed pasta). tortelli with fish sauce. in warm weather.
For more information on types of restaurants see p185
188-197_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 195 09/09/16 10:44 am

196  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

BORDIGHERA: La Reserve €€ DOLCEDO: Casa della Rocca €€ IMPERIA: Trattoria dalla Etta €
Modern Map A5 Mediterranean Map B4 Trattoria Map B5
Via Arziglia 20, 18012 Via Ripalta 3, 18100 Via Roma 33, Lucinasco 18100
Tel 0184 26 13 22 Closed Wed Tel 0183 28 0138 Closed Mon, also Tel 0183 523 67 Closed Mon
Typical dishes include sea bass Tue in winter Simple dishes and home-made
ravioli, gnocchi in a coral- A culinary delight. Only a tasting extra virgin olive oil (also for sale).
coloured sauce and fresh grilled menu is offered (two appetizers, In winter, dine in an intimate
fish. The limoncello liqueur is one first course, two main dishes dining room, and in summer,
worth trying. and a dessert), all with fine wines. dine under the pergola over-
looking the valley.
BORGIO: Verezzi Doc €€€ FINALE LIGURE: Ai Cuattru
Refined Regional Map C4 Canti € IMPERIA: Lanterna Blu €€€
Via Vittorio Veneto 1, 17022 Local Map C4 Mediterranean Map B5
Tel 019 61 14 77 Closed Mon, Via Torcelli 22, 17024 Via Scarincio 32, 18100
also Tue in winter Tel 019 68 05 40 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 0183 638 59 Closed Mon–Wed;
Verezzi Doc is set in a lovely A small restaurant with a very Sun dinner & lunch from Thu–Sat
flower-filled villa. Try specialities welcoming atmosphere. Try the Overlooking the port, this
such as fantasia di mare (assorted farinata, tagliolini with squid ink, restaurant offers excellent
fish with basil), artichoke soufflé octopus or rabbit, Ligurian style. Ligurian cui sine with a touch
or gnocchi with beetroot of the Neapolitan tradition.
and mullet. FINALE LIGURE: Ai Torchi €€€ Dishes here are made using
Sicilian/Neapolitan Map C4 high quality prod ucts and
CERVO: San Giorgio €€€ Via dell’Annunziata 12, 17024 Mediterranean herbs.
Winery Map B5 Tel 019 69 05 31 Closed Tue
Via Volta 19, 18010 Housed in an old olive-oil factory, LAIGUEGLIA: U Gussu €
Tel 0183 40 01 75 Closed Mon Ai Torchi offers a taste of south- Mediterranean Map B4
& Tue dinner ern Italian cuisine. Don't forget to Via Dante 41, 17053
Simple and creative cuisine try the maccheroncini al sugo di Tel 0182 49 92 78 Closed Tue
based on a combination of polpo e zucchini (courgette and U Gussu serves gene rous
fish, crusta ceans, shellfish and octopus pasta). portions of tasty fish dishes.
vegetables according to the Try the spaghetti with mussels.
season. Booking is recommended. IMPERIA: Osteria Didu € There is also a good selection of
Innovative cheese and desserts available.
COGOLETO: A Begûdda € Mediterranean Map B5
Seafood Map C3 Viale Matteotti 76, Oneglia 18100 LAIGUEGLIA: Baia del Sole €€
Lungomare Santa Maria 69, 16016 Tel 0183 27 36 36 Closed Mon Seafood Map B4
Tel 010 918 90 71 Closed Sun & Tue Piazza Cavour 8, 17053
dinner The chef changes the menu Tel 0182 69 00 19
Try the lobster taglierini pasta, every day according to the ingre- Set in a 17th-century seaside
the risotto with peppers and dients available. Dishes here are palace with a dining terrace
scampi sauce, or the sushi. The simple and set at affordable directly on the beach. The res-
restaurant has a con tem po rary prices, made with vegetables taur ant offers inventive Medi-
ambience. Excellent tiramisu and from the res taurant’s own terranean cuisine as well as
mint panna cotta desserts. garden. Try inven tive dishes such traditional Ligurian dishes.
as stuffed squid or buridda (fish
COLDIROLI: Gabry € soup) with octo pus and red wine. NOLI: Lilliput €€€
Mediterranean Map A5 Excellent wines available. Seafood Map C4
Via Monte Ortigara 43, 18038 Via Zuglieno 49, Vioze, 17027
Tel 0184 67 00 38 Closed Mon Tel 019 74 80 09 Closed Mon
Gabry offers panoramic views Fresh ingredients and simple
from its hilltop location, and cuisine, in a hilltop location with
classic traditional Italian cui sine breathtaking views. For starters,
served with its own wines. try the platter of shellfish, vege ta-
bles and fish in lemon cream.
DK Choice PIETRA LIGURE: Osteria Ciàssa
DOLCEACQUA/APRICALE: Növa €
Apricale Da Delio €€ Traditional Map B4
Local Map A4 Via Matteotti 21, 17027
Piazza Vittorio Veneto 9 , 18030 Tel 019 62 50 56 Closed Tue
Tel 0184 20 80 08 Closed Mon & eve & Wed
Tue except from Jun–Aug A family-run restaurant that offers
This restaurant is in a small Ligurian cuisine cooked with
and charming village, and offers seasonal ingredients. In summer,
regional cuisine made with sit outside in the square.
fresh local products. Enjoy a
meal on a terrace with a great SAN REMO: Buena Vista €€
view. Try home-made pasta and Argentinian Map A5
meat dishes such as rabbit ravioli, Corso degli Ingleasi 15, 18038
goat stew with white beans or Tel 0184 50 90 60
stuffed vegeta bles. Do not miss Near the Casino, this Argentinian
the delicate zabaglione. Casual seating at the marina-styled restaurant welcomes visitors
Lanterna Blu in Imperia with a glass of sangria. It offers a
Key to Price Guide see p188
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  197

varied menu of Latin American
and Italian dishes, including
Argentinian beef.
SAN REMO: Da Paolo
e Barbara €€
Seafood Map A5
Via Roma 47, 18038 San Remo
Tel 0184 53 16 53 Closed Wed; Thu;
lunch except Sat and Sun; 17–28 Dec,
one weekend in Jan & two weeks in
mid-Jun
Small family-run restaurant
that serves local fresh fish and
vege tables from its own farm,
home-made breads and focaccia.
Main courses include local sea-
food products, or veal cutlets
made with meat from the
Langhe region. There is a
"Saturday shopping" menu on
offer for those who want a break
from San Remo’s boutiques.
Spacious terrace with wonderful sea views, Balzi Rossi, Ventimiglia
SAN REMO: La Pignese €€
Traditional Map A5 TOIRANO: Al Ravanello and direct access to the beach.
Piazza Sardi 7, 18038 Incoronato € Don't miss the excel lent fritto
Tel 0184 50 19 29 Closed Mon Local Map B4 misto (mixed fried fish), which
One of the oldest restaurants in Via Parodi 27/A, 17100 is made using the daily catch.
Liguria, La Pignese has an Tel 0182 92 19 91 Closed Tue It also hosts a jazz festival
outdoor terrace overlooking the Set in the medieval village of in summer.
fishermen’s port. Excellent Toirano, this elegant restaurant
shellfish and fresh fish of the day. offers both local and regional VARIGOTTI: Al Saraceno €€€
dishes enhanced by seasonal Traditional Map C4
SAN REMO: Da Vittorio €€ flavours. Enjoy fresh pasta and a Via Al Capo 2, 17024
Seafood Map A5 good sel ection of Piedmontese Tel 019 698 81 82 Closed Lunch by
Piazza Bresca 16, 18038 San Remo meat, along with vegetables and reservation from Mon–Fri
Tel 0184 50 19 24 Closed Two herbs from the garden. Alfresco With a terrace overlooking
weeks in Nov dining option in the summer. the sea, this is a romantic
A traditional favourite spe cializing Parking is available nearby. spot in which to enjoy a
in fish and fish soup. Located a traditional meal with a modern
short distance from the shore. VARAZZE: Bri € twist – meat and fish dishes with
Local Map C3 Mediterranean flavours and
SAVONA: Conca Verde € Piazza Nello Bovani 12, 17019 fresh, high-quality ingredients.
Game Map C4 Tel 019 93 56 05 Closed Wed
Via Strà 27, 17100 except Jul–Aug VARIGOTTI:
Tel 019 26 33 31 Closed Mon Enjoy traditional cuisine at this Muraglia-Conchiglia d’ Oro €€€
Friendly restaurant, with a lovely centrally located restaurant, with Seafood Map C4
terrace and gardens, great views outdoor tables set on the small Via Aurelia 133, 17029
and ample parking. Specialities square. Try specials such as Tel 019 69 80 15 Closed Wed,
include fish, game and grilled stoccafisso in buridda (dried cod also Tue in winter
meat. Good wines and seasonal with tomato, pine nuts, artichokes, This restaurant offers excellent
desserts. peppers and potatoes). fresh fish and seafood dishes.
Diners can choose fish from
SPOTORNO: Pinna Rossa € VARAZZE: Pesce Pazzo €€ the daily catch as it is presented
Traditional Map C4 Seafood Map C3 in large wicker baskets, and
Via Aurelia 39, 17028 Via Maestri d’Ascia 1, 17019 then grilled in front of them.
Tel 019 74 51 61 Tel 019 93 00 32 Closed Mon
A bright little restaurant with in winter VENTIMIGLIA:
tables outside for alfresco dining. Savour fresh fish and Ligurian Balzi Rossi €€€
Offers traditional Ligurian cuisine, cuisine at Pesce Pazzo, located Seafood Map A5
such as scaloppino di ombrina right at the entrance to the port Piazzale A De Gasperi 2 18039
(finely sliced fillets of sea perch). of Varazze. The restau rant offers Tel 0184 381 32 Closed Mon
fishing excursions where diners & Tue lunch except Jul–Sep
TAGGIA: Osteria Germinal €€ can catch their own dinner! Located near the French
Mediterranean Map A5 border, this restaurant offers
Via Gastaldi 15b, 18018 VARIGOTTI: Aqua €€ stunning panoramic views of
Tel 0184 411 53 Closed Mon–Wed Local Map C4 the sea from the terrace.
Simple, welcoming trattoria, Via Aurelia 46, 17024 Dishes are carefully pre pared
well-known for its traditional Tel 019 74 87 54 Closed Tue lunch using fresh, locally-sourced
dishes and 'Slow Food' approach. & Wed dinner ingre dients such as tuna, arti-
The lean meat and thyme ravioli Located right on the seafront chokes, courgettes, cod and
comes highly recommended. of Varigotti, Aqua offers easy olive oil.
For more information on types of restaurants see p185
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198  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING

Shopping is an enjoyable experience in there are some great markets to visit.
Liguria, as it is throughout Italy. Genoa and Most towns have a market every week, while
San Remo are the places to go to buy choice larger towns such as Genoa, Ventimiglia and
or designer clothes, though the large resorts Rapallo, have one every day. Most visitors
have plenty of boutiques, too. In terms of may not consider taking any of Liguria’s
crafts, Liguria is a good place in which to buy famous fresh flowers home, but San Remo’s
ceramics, an ancient craft associated with flower market, the largest in Europe, is well
Albisola and Savona. Good-quality glass worth a visit.
(Altare), lace (Rapallo and Portofino), Throughout this region, there are shops
macramé and woodcarving (Chiavari) can selling local olive oil and wine, as well as
also be found. As in other regions of Italy, Liguria’s other gastronomic delights.
Antiques
regions in the field of
Before you start shopping for horticulture: nurseries and
antiques (or modern art, in fact), glasshouses housing everything
you should be aware that if you from camellias to citrus trees
want to take any such object under one roof seem to
out of the country you will domi nate the landscape
need to apply to the Italian in some areas, and flower
Department of Exports for an shops abound. Bonsai trees
export licence (for which (including miniature olive trees)
you will have to pay). Any are popular buys, as are cacti,
reputable antiques succulents and orchids.
dealer will be able to All sorts of tropical
give you the details. plants are
Antique shops available, too.
proliferate in Liguria,
above all in the large Plants and flowers, the
towns, and some are pride of Liguria Olive Oil
of an excellent A natural product
standard. Items for sale range that is of great importance to
Throwing a pot – a tradition with a long from objets d’art to books the region’s economy is the
history in Liguria and prints, furniture, statues, olive, and also the oil made
jewellery and antique posters. from it. No one knows who first
Ceramics
Model ships and other seafaring planted olives along this coast
This is one of the oldest memorabilia, such as shipboard but, in the Middle Ages, the
handicrafts practised in Liguria. furniture, instruments and even monasteries played an
Evidence of ceramic production figureheads, are particularly important role in developing
dates back to at least the sought after. the art of olive-pressing.
15th century. Several important Olives are cultivated all along
The twin city of Albisola, the antiques fairs are held
main ceramics centre in Liguria, in the region, including
has been a town of potters “Antiqua” and
since the Renaissance. Here “Tuttantico” in Genoa,
you can find all sorts of objects and the annual fair held
made from the local clay, in August in Sarzana.
(typically coloured blue and There is also a monthly
white), from decorative tiles antiques market in
to old pharmacy jars. Genoa’s Palazzo Ducale.
In nearby Savona, pots are Wherever you shop,
also traditionally painted blue always ask for evidence
and white, though there are of the authenticity of
more modern designs and your purchase.
other colours, as well as figures
from nativity scenes (presepi). Plants and Flowers
You can buy ceramics either
in specialist shops and art Thanks to its mild
galleries or, sometimes, from climate, Liguria is one
the potter’s own workshops. of Italy’s foremost Shops on the main street of Vernazza, Cinque Terre




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