UFASHON MAGAZINE SS2020

DRESS: STÉPHANE ROLLAND
JEWELRY: PIAGET

Ccreativity space

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CREATIVITY

DRESS: IRIS VAN HERPEN
JEWELRY: CHOPARD

HAIRBAND: BARBARA GUIDI
PAINTING: ALEXANDRA MAS
PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIIO

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4 N ATELIER

GEORGES CHAKRA

MBROIDERIE

GUO PEI
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ARTISANAL

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TONY WARD
PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIO

PIAGET

JEWELRY

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CAT

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ATWALK

STÉPHANE ROLLAND
PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIO

ACC

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CESSORIES

DIOR
PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIO

TEXTILE

RALPH & RUSSO

E

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HOME

VALDERAMOBILI

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AR

BAIADERA

EXHIBITIO

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ON

FRANCESCO SOMAINI E MILANO
PALAZZO REALE MILANO

DRESS: ZUHAIR MURAD
JEWELRY: CHOPARD

CONTENT INDEX

LOVE ALWAYS WINS 26
ALEXIS MABILLE, THE POWER OF WOMAN 30
34
ANTONIO GRIMALDI, MODERN NYMPHS 40
ARNOLD & SON, PANORAMIC VISIOIN 44
AZZARO, EPICUREAN AMAZON 50
CHANEL 56
DIOR, PRIMORDIAL GODDESS 62
PIAGET, GOLDEN OASIS 66
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ELIE SAAB, A LOST ART FROM A FAR AWAY TIME 108
“BESOTTED...” 112
120
FRANCESCO SOMAINI E MILANO 126
FRANCK SORBIER, VIVA LA DOÑA 134
GEORGES CHAKRA, A PEACEFUL CHANGE 140
GUO PEI, MYTHOLOGICAL SYMBOL 146
BARBARA GUIDI, EXPLORATION OF FORMS 148
IRIS VAN HERPEN, SENSORY SEAS 154
EGIZIA 1949, ARABESQUE LUXURY 158
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER written by ALEXANDRA MAS 166
JULIEN FOURNIÉ, FEMALE ADVENTURERS 172
PRIMA, DONNA. MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE 176
ON AURA TOUT VU, DES …EQUILIBRUM 182
RALPH & RUSSO,MODERN INTERPRETATION OF COUTURE ICONS 186
VALDERAMOBILI, AURA COLLECTION 190
RONALD VAN DER KEMP, LOOKING TO THE FUTURE 196
STÉPHANE ROLLAND, MOONRISE INFINITE DELICACY 200
204
TONY WARD, #REVIVEW 208
ULYANA SERGEENKO, A RESTLESS HEROINE 212

VALENTINO, DREAM FREELY
ALIDA LIBERALE, ART TO WEAR
VIKTOR & ROLF, NOBLE PHILOSOPHY

YUIMA NAKAZATO

www.ufashon.com 25

DRESS: STÉPHANE ROLLAND
HAIRBAND: BARBARA GUIDI

LOVE ALWAYS WINS

Lights, color and allure dazzled our eyes in admiring the Haute
Couture collections during Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer
2020.
Captured and enraptured by such beauty, we abandoned oursel-
ves to a unique, rare, and wonderful elegance.
We are proud to have witnessed a lot of work and a lot of research,
which every maison scrupulously uses in every inch of a dress,
which encompasses hours and hours of work, passion and resear-
ch to become a true work of art, pure, essential, and unique.
UFASHON chose the most beautiful one admired during the Paris
Fashion Week Spring Summer 2020, to share, as in every season,
how many wonders we are surrounded by.
In the making of UFASHON MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE SS
2020 dazzled by that light, we immediately set to work to edit a
new magazine that can convey to its readers as many emotions as
we have experienced personally.
We met the designers, the team of some brands and admired
together their masterpieces, their collections; we rejoiced, we
embraced each other, in the celebration that once again the col-
lections presented are sublime.
A hug that did not want to be a simple gesture of affection and
approval, but above all the sharing for the great work that every
dress, jewel or bag contains. A simple gesture that today seems to
be a distant memory.
The whole world has been overwhelmed in recent months by a
terrible pandemic that has spared no continent. UFASHON, with
the publication of UFASHON MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE,
wants to offer its contribution to testify and show that everybody,
in compliance with the law and in helping the weakest, wants to
shine those lights, those colors even like those who have never
stopped and offered their support in total solidarity and generosity
to save lives.
Sharing the experience of this pandemic has certainly contribu-
ted to a collective reflection, which although epidemics are part of
the evolution of genesis, is certainly an event of nature that rebels
against an uncontrolled and violent abuse of the earth.
In recent years, many designers who are aware of climate change
have adopted different attention in the use of natural fibers or the
recycling of materials, creating unique and extraordinary garmen-
ts. Probably also our way of being and dressing in the future will
change, just as our soul and our sensitivity have changed in these
months where time seems to be suspended.
UFASHON MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE Spring Summer 2020
therefore does not want to be a light, but the “glow” of a large li-
ghthouse, an awakening that also warms the soul and does not
just satisfy the eyes in admiring the beauty of the collections pre-
sented.
#love always wins and defeats all evil. Therefore, do not be afraid
to dare and let yourself be abandoned by reading this wonder-
ful magazine, which is fortunate to be one of the spokespersons
of true works of art, because culture and knowledge are the true
food of the soul, which nourishes our existence and our emotions,
true witnesses of our life.

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www.borsalino.com

ALEXIS MABILLE

THE POWER
OF WOMAN

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www.alexismabille.com

Crisp outlines, defined vo-
lumes, strong materials,
contrasting textures.
This season, Alexis Mabil-
le’s Haute Couture craft-
smanship is expressed in
shades of white, a palette
freed of color to better re-
veal the woman’s power.

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ANTONIO GRIMALDI

MODERN
NYMPHS

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Antonio Grimaldi for new Spring/Summer 2020 Haute Couture collection, turns
his gaze to and draws inspiration from the Nymphs who inhabit the art world.
A recurring theme for both classical and avant-garde artists, the modern nymphs - imagined
by Antonio Grimaldi, appear as slender and feminine figures, maidens characterized by an in-
comparable beauty, mythological and poetic beings, that tell of love and desires as well as
beauty in all its forms. With divine powers, protectors of heaven, woods, mountains and sprin-
gs, they are sensual and sophisticated in silhouettes dominated by pastel shades: wisteria
and celadon green makes reference to water and its reflections; bright pink, absolute white
and silver recall the celestial atmosphere. Tones that gradually become darker with dresses
dominated by fine blacks to purple and metallic colors (lamé, platinum and rose gold) as
well as an intense mustard yellow, inspired by the enchanted world of woods and forests.
Curved and aerial shapes, chasing lines, architectural asymmetries on the necklines and
hems, wave slits. Lightness that stands on elegant silhouettes, thanks to cuts and techni-
ques typical of high fashion and that have become the leitmotif of Antonio Grimaldi’s style.
Double silk cady returns (a must for the Maison) which alternates and overlaps fabrics
like mikado and taffetà moiré to give life to clothes with volume, body and character.
The large volumes that distinguish the silhouettes are dominated by a sensual lightness
that gives a dreamy and magical aura. Among the 30 looks proposed on the catwalk,
there are trompe l’oeil outfits that deceive the eye by giving dress coats a frock coat effect.
To embellish the outfits, feathers, rich and copious, in various colors, sizes and shapes:
frayed, painted, laser treated, lacquered, rubberized, ostrich, rooster and pheasant.
The embroidery: from works pierced with intertwined woven ribbons with
a tricot effect to the jais work and use of crystals that gives transparen-
cy and a watery and crystalline effect on lingerie and couture t-shirts.
The looks are completed with mini belt bags for the arm and waist with applied fe-
athers; black python and platinum crocodile bracelets and chokers with gold leaf.

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www.antoniogrimaldi.com

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YOUR
WORLD
TIMES

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PANORAMIC VISION Beneath a large sapphire crystal dome, an arch supports a half-globe
in shades of grey and blue. It depicts the continents, the seas and the
lights of the large cities located north of the equator. On the edge of
the planet, a sapphire ring breaks down the 24 hours of a day. Tran-
sparent between 6 am and 6 pm, a metal treatment has been used
to darken it, indicating the night-time hours. Together, the hemisphere
and ring display the time in one part of the world, represented in a
highly original way. In the absence of a dedicated hand or city disc,
The time is read geographically in accordance with the continents.

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www.arnoldandson.com

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AZZARO

EPICUREAN

AMAZON

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The flamboyant
has stood the te
celebrates the w
assertive epicur
her uniqueness.
Wreathed in my
tro-futurist aeww
vement are used
dow, opacity an
Combining the
references with
out of another c
a fleshy, graphic
and the illusion
less, the waistlin
open and asse
ves offer a num
to accentuate th
shape to cover
Feminine in its e
piece of this co
dress is adorned
ats, with cut-ou
ves, made more
stellation of bea
appears in the d
are adorned wit
ght-cut black sa
jewellery pieces
The opacity of
wool broadclot
the daintiness o
dered with crys
In the image of o
– in metal bead
irregularly sprink
a precious spa
leather-effect la
the emblematic
This light, captu
and silver, is en
and punctuated
crimson, purple
The men’s ward
echoes this new
ned by incandes
imaginary marin
fringed embroid
patterns inspired
broidered with c
This collection t
ture in a new w
and the sophisti

www. azzaro-couture.com

t sensuousness of the Azzaro female
est of time, and this season the Brand
woman of this new world: a liberated,
rean Amazon who draws strength on
.
ystery, the designs cultivate a re-
wsthetic where structure and mo-
d to delineate plays on light and sha-
nd transparency, matte and shine.

Brand’s festive, sensuous Couture
h a one-of-a-kind universe straight
constellation, the collection explores
c futurist flora with generous volumes
of simplicity. The tailoring is relent-
ne high and nipped-in, the V-necks
ertive, the sleeves low-cut. The slee-
mber of effects: here balloon-shaped
he build, there a more fluid pagoda
the hands or reveal the shoulders.
essence, the dress remains the key
ollection. Long or extra-short, the
d with ruching, draping or sunray ple-
uts that subtly reveal the body’s cur-
e exquisite there with a zip and a con-
ads and crystals. This elegance also
design of trousers, of which the legs
th a succession of flounces or strai-
atin enhanced with pleats; or in the
s, featuring irregular crystal stones.
f a long double-breasted coat in
th and silky eco-fur interacts with
of diaphanous chiffon, mesh embroi-
stals or aluminium-laminated leather.
otherworldly foliage, fine embroidery
ds, crystalline stones or sequins – is
kled across the designs, providing
arkle that enhances the shine of a
aminate, crepe, satin or jersey, one of
c materials of the Azzaro brand.
ured by the omnipresence of gold
nhanced by the depth of the black
d with flamboyant colours such as
e and cobalt yellow.
drobe, driven by the same inspiration,
w world with its flawless cuts brighte-
scent lurex, straps embroidered with
ne flora in beads and metal, celestial
deries, or jacquard featuring abstract
d by the moon’s relief, entirely em-
charcoal grey stones.
travels between the past and the fu-
world where the attitude is liberated
ication iconoclastic.

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www.samatexsrl.com

CHANEL

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