UFASHON MAGAZINE SS2020

VALENTINO

DREAM
F R E E LY

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The Haute Couture SS 2020 col-
lection by Maison Valentino, clever-
ly directed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, is
a hymn to the liberation of the sub-
conscious, because when we talk
about fashion, we talk about dre-
ams and these are the maximum
expression of our subconscious,
which they release without any
code, the will to express oneself.
The Maison’s collection is like a
journey into the unconscious, whi-
ch Piccioli unleashes between vo-
lumes, color combinations, and
transparencies to be the frame of a
hyper-feminine woman.
The creative director explores his
memories, which translates them
into “True Couture”; dresses with the
extraordinary ability to renew them-
selves according to the eras and
social transformations of women,
without ever failing in the iconic sty-
le of absolute elegance of the Ro-
man Maison.
He was able, with masterful savoir
fair, to interpret those dreams that
are released in unique volumes and
shapes, as unique are the dreams
that Pierpaolo Piccioli has been
able to shape, with a collection of
true Haute Couture.
In addition to the iconic Valentino
red, there was no lack of shades
of pink, mint and a beautiful purple
color, which was followed by ele-
gant black dresses.
“Trusting oneself” said Piccioli, “free
the will to explore shapes and emo-
tions in ways that emphasized a
choice and that only Valentino craft-
smen are able to achieve.”
In this collection, Pierpaolo Piccio-
li not only frees dreams, but also
translates absolute elegance with
new shapes.

www.valentino.com

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ALIDA LIBERALE

ART TO

WEAR

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Passion, creativity, curiosity and the great desire for knowledge; we can
bring them together in one person, Alida Liberale.
This artist has an extraordinary and inexhaustible expressive vein where
creativity finds its realization in different pictorial techniques from oil pain-
ting to tapestries to silk painting. It is precisely painting on silk that gave
voice to her main passion by reuniting the name of his Brand in “Art on silk”.
We are accustomed to admiring a work of art while observing a certain
detachment despite emotional involvement. However, the art created by
Alida can be worn. Therefore, a painting is no longer just a pure observa-
tion, but it envelops our body. Painting on silk becomes art that is worn. The
painted silk scarves are unique, exclusive, and unrepeatable works.
The colors slide on the silk following the careful hand of the artist who
knows how to direct the sign, as describing the nature that accompanies
the themes of her paintings. She is inspired by nature and matter; the en-
vironment is a subject of great attention for Alida. It is precisely “reserve
dyes” through the batik and shibori technique, which exploits the eco-su-
stainable respect of Art on Silk.
The silk scarves, the eco-sustainable pictorial techniques make everything
return to nature as an inexhaustible circle where creation is born and turns
into painted silks, which, thrilling us like a work of art, know how to respect
nature.
The softness of silk with its exclusive texture, gives those who touch it
very pleasant sensations. However, the silk painted by Alida acquires new
awareness of new life, and adds value because the hand that directed it
through its pictorial ideas add a new and different consistency giving to
the touch a real sensation, the truth of the hands that have been able to
transform it.

www.artesullaseta.it

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VIKTOR & ROLF

NOBLE

PHILOSOPHY

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Since 2016, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have used archival fabrics from
their suppliers to make their Haute Couture dresses or they have used sam-
ples unsold.
Their great skill has always been to revive forgotten fabrics, reinterpreting
them in a totally modern key, with style and elegance.
They have chosen to create Haute Couture Collection with total respect for
the environment and in every season they are surprisingly brilliant in transla-
ting into fashion something that in reality no longer had a life of its own.
Not only that, thanks to their noble philosophy, they have shown that a “true
couture” can be done without damaging the environment and giving the ma-
ximum expression to what now seems to have become a conscientious obli-
gation: “recycling”.
But this is not enough for them. They need to express their creation with strong
messages, not only dictated by expertly sewn fabric cuts or by the choice of
fabrics that, thanks to their skill, actually seewm to have been created for this
or that dress, their message wants to be clear, direct, reflective, without any
margin of error.
And here on the catwalk the models are enriched with tattoos, like real mes-
sages, which, although very current now in the common costume, also want
to be a real reading of a consciousness that can no longer go unnoticed.
And so the collection is transformed like a fairytale world that tells and expres-
ses a fragile woman, but at the same time determined and responsible in
communicating to anyone who observes her, not only to admire her beauty,
but to have the responsible conscience of a new lifestyle, respecting the en-
vironment around us.
“Patchworks” is therefore the fundamental element of Viktor & Rolf’s Haute
Couture SS2020 Collection where accessories also find their most sublime
transformation.
So Haute Couture can also be created from the recycling of a fabric, without
having any impact on the environment, the important thing is knowing how
to express your creative art and certainly Viktor & Rolf are an extraordinary
example of it in the Haute Couture of our days.

www. viktor-rolf.com

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YUIMA NAKAZATO

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Yuima Nakazato has always aspired to create tailor-made garments that harmonize
with the individuality of each wearer. To accomplish this objective, our designs are
based around our proprietary “Unit System”, a modular approach inspired by our ob-
servations of natural crystal and molecular structures.
First announced during the A/W 2019 season, BIOSMOCKING represents a signi-
ficant evolution of our Unit System technology, and its application in this season’s
collection represents a major step forward for our vision.
Through our collaboration with Spiber, YUIMA NAKAZATO has developed a tex-
tile-modelling method for creating three-dimensional textures. This process—Bio-
smocking™— works by precisely controlling the supercontraction property of spe-
cially-tailored Brewed Protein™ textiles, and makes it possible to bring an entirely
new sense of three-dimensionality to our garments.
Experimentation with numerous prototypes and production processes has resul-
ted in significant improvements to shrinkage control, resulting in the ability to create
three-dimensional textures as well as modify the shape of the material itself .
Each of the rectangles printed on the garments’ fabric has a different purpose—some
are designed to hug the body, while others are intended to hang freely. Utilizing the
latest iteration of Biosmocking in this manner allows us to design reactive garments
that incorporate limitless variation.
The application of Biosmocking allows us to offer highly personalized pieces which
envelop the body without being cut or sewn, and which offer endless potential for
customization in terms of sizing and design.
The Japanese kimono and Western clothing traditions arise from two different ap-
proaches to the body. Made from rectangular patterns, the kimono is not designed
to fit any one body in particular but rather has the potential to accommodate a wide
variety of body shapes and types. In comparison, Western dresses are cut and sewn
using curved patterns and are tailored to fit the shape of the human body. The ki-
mono requires a styling technique called kitsuke to fit it to the wearer, while Western
dresses are created from the outset to fit the wearer’s body. For this collection, we
have utilized rectangular patterns designed to fit the human body, representing a
fusion of the two clothing traditions.
The designs for this collection were inspired by the beautiful changes we witnessed
as the material shifted and transformed before our eyes during early experimenta-
tion with Biosmocking development. We imagine that this experience in some way
mirrors that of our ancestors as they went through numerous trials and errors lear-
ning to master the use of fire.
As a whole, this collection is the result of a unique attempt to blend old and new
technologies—to fuse primitive fashion techniques with the latest in biotechnology
and digital fabrication.

www.yuimanakazato.com

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UFASHON

HAUTE COUTURE

SPRING SUMMER 2020

DRESS: IRIS VAN HERPEN www.ufashon.com
JEWELRY: CHOPARD
HAIRBAND: BARBARA GUIDI
SHOES: BOTTEGA23
PAINTING: ALEXANDRA MAS
PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIIO