UFASHON MAGAZINE SS2020

HANDMADE JEWELRY
MADE IN ROME

www.lesibille.it

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PH: PACO DI CANTO

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www.alvbyalvieromartini.com

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JULIEN FOURNIÉ

FEMALE

ADVENTURERS

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Julien Fournié is inspired by great female adventurers who go through
the history of humanity and female emancipation. Explorers, ethologists
or archaeologists, they prove themselves capable of roaming jungles and
dancing waltzes. Their curiosity about the world, their thirst for indepen-
dence and the quest for their own truth include the courage of disobeying
social codes.
Whether they are discovering South America’s pre-Columbian civiliza-
tions, Africa’s scriptless tribes or the Sahara’s Berber and Tuareg arts, they
give up nothing and neither reject the society from which they come, nor
contradict the worlds they are exploring. Far from the masculine values
that led to predation, via colonizing or evangelizing, their conquests ad-
vocate mutual discovery, acceptance of differences, mutual aid, some-
times at the cost of their own life. In addition to the expedition they have
planned, organized and financed, they are constantly seeking the hidden
meaning of the world, beyond appearances, genders and borders. Com-
bining phlegm, enthusiasm and compassion, they adapt to everything,
collect tools, pottery,jewelry let nature transform them, and blend into the
landscape without losing any panache.
Mastering the cut, the French couturier builds statement silhouettes
around more casual attire, adorned with talisman-like embroideries or
amulets as if collected from previous encounters and locations. Shapes
are often structured with multiple strap belts, including bags or bando-
liers which symbolize, for the discoverers of new territories, together with
braid, an essential equipment. Far from any precise identification with a
single geographic or ethnic origin, these ladies mix the elegance from
their original lifestyle together with the fantastic treasures they have found
on the way, in a personal interpretation, as far from communitarian ardor
as from any indoctrinating spirit.
“Haute Couture and female explorers do share a taste for experience,
pragmatism and encounters which established dogmas hardly encoura-
ge and often despise,” says Julien Fournié. “I am convinced that the sear-
ch for freedom is our common point in order to imagine the world off the
marketing of fame’s overbeaten track, as a way to save the planet and
mankind.”

www. julienfournie.com

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PRIMA, DONNA.
MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE

18th March - 20th June 2020
Palazzo Reale, Milan

The exhibition features, in an entirely new selection, the most extraordinary pho-
tographs taken during her long career by Margaret Bourke-White, one of the
most representative and emblematic figures of photojournalism. Next to the pho-
tographs, a series of personal documents and images, videos and autobiographi-
cal texts, tell the personality of an important photographer, a great woman, her
vision and her countercurrent life.

It will be possible to admire over 100 images, from ‘Life archive in New York, and
divided into 10 thematic groups that, in a chronological view, trace the thread of
the existential path of Margaret Bourke-White and show her visionary and narrati-
ve ability, able to compose dense and dazzling photographic “stories”.

The exhibition is part of “I talenti delle donne”, a program promoted by Depart-
ment of Culture of Municipality of Milan dedicated to the universe of women,
focusing the attention of a whole year - 2020 - on their works, their priorities, their
abilities. The aim is to make visible the contributions that over time women have
made and offer in all areas of collective life, starting with cultural life but also in
scientific and entrepreneurial sphere, to the progress of humanity. The objective
isn’t only producing a new levels of awareness of the role of women in social
life, but also to help concretely and to pursue the principle of fairness and equal
opportunities which, from our Constitution, must be able to move into everyday
representations and cultures.

an exhibition Municipality of Milan – Culture Office, Palazzo Reale and Contrasto
curated by Alessandra Mauro
in collaboration with Life Picture Collection
with the support of Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia
catalogue Contrasto

Palazzo Reale Milano

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MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE

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www.baiadera.com

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ART SHOES

carlafoca.ufashon.com

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ON AURA TOUT VU

DES …EQUILIBRUM

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www.onauratoutvu.com

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Combat of the Titans

Disarm the Armed soldiers
Imaginary conquests

Childhood mythologies

War play
Destroy / Dismember / Deconstruct / Disar-

ticulate
As a way to fix reality

Create / Gather / Recompose / Reconstruct
A way to give birth to another world
Reinventing opposing forces

The intimate and the apparent
The standard and the unique

Beyond Good and Evil

Feathers and crystals
Bright bursts of lightness

At the start of dawn
Tightrope walker balance on the rainbow

Headwind challenge
Antagonists

Beauty armor Uniforms of seduction
Outfits of the sublime

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RALPH & RUSSO

MODERN

I N T E R P R E TAT I O N

OF COUTURE

ICONS

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In homage to a decade of design, the Spring Summer
2020 couture collection presents a youthful and modern
interpretation of Ralph & Russo couture icons. With a spe-
cial focus on ten treasured looks, this season takes inspira-
tion from the brand archive and simultaneously reimagines
each piece with contemporary flair.
Abundant with sumptuous draping, illustrious silk crêpe
tailleurs, structured florals, hand-painted organza trains
and oversized bows,

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The collection reinvents brand signatures, coupling them
with newfound elements and light, airy features in kaleido-
scopic hues of oceana, pastel pink, chartreuse and cobalt
blue.
Testament to a continued commitment to the highest
echelon of design and craftsmanship,
Spring Summer 2020 celebrates not only house values and
iconic moments, but all the brand has become known for.

www.ralphandrusso.com

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VALDERAMOBILI

AURA

COLLECTION

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The charming appeal of special-
ly selected materials, accurate
craftsmanship throughout each
phase of production and the de-
pendability of a company which
has operated in the furniture in-
dustry for over thirty years: these
values distinguish Valderamo-
bili, created in 1976 and today
a benchmark for elegant clas-
sic furniture of superior quality
The quest for excellence to-
gether with the will to supply
products and services which
meet the needs of its custo-
mers, has enabled Valderamo-
bili to rise above competitors,
thus consolidating its market
position both in Italy and abroad..

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www.valderamobili.it

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W

www.boldriniselleria.com

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RONALD VAN DER KEMP

LOOKING

TO THE

FUTURE

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Since 2014, the mission of Ronald Van
couture house for the future, creating c
cause they believe that what is deeme
tomorrows.
They capture those discarded fragme
ving wardrobe fueling a mindful mov
sake of our planet.
The collection consists of 38 looks, 6
wardrobes, 7 upcycled items from thei
and 25 new styles all made with exist
dead stock and leftovers: they did not
All materials used for the collection, i
are existing materials coming from: o
designer and couture leftovers, previo
from late Dutch couturier Frans Molena
jeans, interior fabrics, leathers and skin
vers and discards sustainable horn.

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n Der Kemp to reinvent the notion of a 185
couture out of unwanted materials be-
ed useless today can create beautiful
ents and turn them into an ever-evol-
vement for the sake of beauty for the
68 garments, 15 pieces from previous
ir previous wardrobes, 21 new editions,
ting materials coming from overstock,
produce any new fabrics or skins.
including shoes, hats and sunglasses
old couture, stock vintage collections,
ous seasons leftovers, fabric archives
aar, bridal designers archive, upcycled
ns from other brands’ production lefto-

www.ronaldvanderkemp.com.

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STÉPHANE ROLLAND

MOONRISE
INFINITE
DELICACY

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A circle is a symbol of eternity and harmony, with no beginning nor end. It is the balance of life.
The circle is also lunar, the way a moon often hints a feminine divinity.
The wrist, hand, pencil rotate and glide, sculpting each shape on the body with amplitude and generosity.
The curtain rises on a big coat of gazar, like a middle eastern prince’s, worn on an evening pyjama in ivory
crepe. Then steps forward a half-poncho made of concentric circles. Later on, a spheric jumpsuit in grainy crepe
with silver embroideries transcribes with each step, every shift of the body. The flow is yet again architectural,
driven and spectacular.
A white jersey sheath dress blooms out of a bouquet of half circles on the ankles, skirts are draped in loops
and reveal a hip or a leg, all the way to the waist. The gowns and jackets’ shoulder lines are squared and the
lapels, circular.
The style is minimal but strong. Stéphane Rolland for this summer 2020 goes to the essential and affirms his
gesture.
A silver bustier is holding a cage of gigantic orchids made of black and white gazar, an other is entirely cove-
red with topaz or yet, circled by a sculpture of silver and smoked crystals or embroidered with feathers on a
big transparent gauze skirt.
The allure is soft, milky, cloudy. The aspect remains light, floating, like the sculptures of white sequins embelli-
shing a bust or black Samothrace’s like wings on the hips of a bustier dress in nude iridescent chiffon.
The colors are fundamental. Black, white, cream … but punctuated with browns, bougainvillea pink and Klein
blue.
Metallic embroideries made of silver mirrors, crystals and chrome spheres are shimmering but with the sole
purpose of emphasising a curve or finish a movement.
The movement, incidentally, is a constant pursuit of a dream and accuracy.

Infinite delicacy.

www.stephanerolland.com

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TONY WARD

#REVIVEW

PH: MARCO TASSINI FOR MASTASSINI STUDIO

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Tony Ward’s Couture Spring/Summer 2020 Col-
lection is built on infinite lines, on circles & Mandala
diagrams, on fractalized shapes & “soft” geometry.
Following the circular philosophy of life, we’re ma-
king new Couture out of vintage pieces, where most
of the fabrics & dresses are upcycled & revived in
different ways.
The palette of this collection ranges from pure whi-
te, to green aqua & bright yellow.
The designer played with embracing cuts allowing
his muse to feel secure & with voluminous shapes
symbolizing freedom.

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www.tonyward.net

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ULYANA SERGEENKO

A RESTLESS

HEROINE

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An enthusiastic herald of the narrative high society, befriended Truman Capote
powers of fashion-making, Ulyana Ser- and loved pink.
geenko keeps telling captivating stories The show itself happens in Bismarck’s
through her collections. Parisian mansion, the interiors bathed in
Season after season, she follows the ad- pink, and is an amused and amusing ode
ventures of a restless heroine whose hun- to love, a force way stronger than money.
ger for life in its many facets is reflected in Ulyana Sergeenko dresses her heroine in
the way her wardrobe morphs and evol- airy feathers and fancy dresses, fur coats
ves as her experiences grow. made with money bills and shoes with cat
After last season’s trip to Samarkand, the ears, mixing irony with glamour.
Ulyana Sergeenko woman celebrates her A feline theme runs through, naughtily: cat
homecoming with a big, lavish party of paws are scattered on leopard prints - a
pure, undiluted fun. Her character is in- first for Sergeenko - or turn into embroi-
spired by Shirley MacLaine in the movie dery on gloves and dresses; the image
What a way to go (1964), which on its turn of a cat becomes a structural element on
was an homage to Countess Mona von corsets and dresses.
Bismarck, who used marriage as a pass to

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Money is another motif, as banknotes of bright to muted, mixed with green, blue,
the Ulyana Sergeenko Bank are printed light blue, yellow, gold and silver, plus
on organza and gathered on boas, coats, white and black.
trains, becoming an amusing substitute to Accessories play with the idea of illusion:
fur. Money becomes a print, too, or is ren- shoes sprout cat ears, a wine glass beco-
dered in hand-knitted Vologda lace. The mes a handbag, a diamond tiara becomes
season’s flower is the gladiolus - a me- a headband with a cat face, and a cocktail
mory of the bouquets given to the hostess glass. High heel shoes are studded with
of the party - appearing on jacquard skirts, rhinestones. Boas are mandatory, as are
dresses, and bright green and red pointy diamond-studded tiaras and voluminous
shoes. Mohair sweaters are embellished hairpins-bows.
with appliqué of embroidered roses; dres- As the protagonist of the most amusing
ses are entirely covered with colored fe- and glamorous party, the Ulyana Serge-
athers. Precious material such as silk or- enko woman enjoys life through the sheer
ganza, coated silk, silk crepe, chiffon with joy of dressing up, adventure after adven-
a shiny coating, wool and lace come in a ture.
voluptuous palette of shades of pink, from

www.ulyanasergeenko.com

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