The Pastry Chef's Apprentice-OCR

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE

D in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a paddle attachment, blend the bread
flour, corn flour, baking powder, almond
flour, vanilla scrapings, and cubed butter
lightly. The mixture should be a rough,
shaggy mass.

1:1 Add the sugar, salt, egg, egg yolk, and
U Grand Marnier and mix lightly.

1:1 Dissolve the ammonium bicarbonate

1::1 in the water and add to the dough.

I ] Mix lightly until the dough is uniform

(a).

r.I Place on a Iightly floured work surface
I!.I and form into a tight ball.

n Flatten the ball and wrap the dough in

1:1 plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

a1:'1 The next day, preheat the oven to II Note the texture of the finished dough.
350°F (l75°C or gas mark 4).

r.t Butter a 10 x 2-inch (25.4 x 5 cm)

1:.1 cake pan and line with parchment (b).

1:1 Remove the dough from the refrigera- The rubbing method coats
the particles of flour with
1:1 tor and crumble (c) . Use the largest fat, making them imperme-
able to water and reducing
holes on a box grater if necessary. the likelihood of gluten
development, resulting in
1.1!1~ Without packing or compacting tender products. Although
them, gently place the crumbles in there is very little water in
the buttered and lined cake pan (d). Sbrisolona, the rubbing
method is used to make
m Place the Sbrisolona in the oven and a cake that more closely
bake until golden brown and a tooth- resembles crumble topping
pick inserted in the cake comes out clean, or streusel. The major dif-
approximately 30 to 40 minutes (e) . ference in Sbrisolona dough
and streusel is the addition
.w:t Remove from the oven and dust with of the chemical leavening
agents baking powder and
~ confectioners' sugar (f). ammonium bicarbonate.

~ Reserve at room temperature

1.1:1 until served. Stored in an airtight

contai ner, it remai ns fresh for several days.

Older Sbrisolona is dipped in coffee, tea,

hot chocolate, or wine.

. . Gently pour the crumbles into the

a!I prepared pan.

SBRISOLONA

I I Line the cake pan with parchment. •

II Crumble the dough.

Ammonium bicarbonate is
used in drier baked goods.
Due to the fact that there is
not enough moisture in the
dough to activate the leav-
ening, it is necessary to dis-
solve ammonium bicarbon-
ate in water to activate it.
The amount of gas released
is very strong, and the odor
is startling if inhaled di-
rectly. It is not harmfu I, but
slightly unpleasant-
exercise caution when
working with it.

I I Bake until golden brown. o Dust with confectioners' sugar.



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THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PA.A. TEA" CHOUX
I'

BY SEBASTIEN ROUXEL

Pate achaux is a unique amalgam that INGREDIENTS

is neither dough nor batter. The flour is U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
cooked prior to baking, which swells and 51/2 cups
gelatinizes the starches. It is leavened by Water
steam generated from the water in milk and
eggs. Apprentices practice mixing, baking, Unsalted butter* lib, 50z 595 g 21,4 cups + 1 tablespoon
and piping it thousands of times, and a
great variety of pastries are made from this Granulated sugar 3.50z lOOg V2 cup
simple preparation.
Salt 0 .6 o z l8g 1 tablespoon
Bread flour llb,150z 879g
61/4 cups + V3 CUP

Whole egg 25 eggs

Engadine nuss torte dough (for cream puffs) See recipe, page 76 1 recipe

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

PATEAcHOUX

PROCEDURE (see photos, page 58-60)

D IrIi'in a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the To pipe eclairs, hold the tip at a 45°

water, butter, sugar, and salt and bring 1.1:.1 angle slightly above the prepared

to a boi I (a). sheet pan . Apply even pressure while

1:1 Remove the pot from the stove and pulling back on the bag. Use a similar
U add the flour all at once. technique to pipe other shapes (e , f).
1:1 Using a heavy, flat-bottomed spoon,
1:1 mix well and return the pot to the m If time permits, freeze the shapes
before baking. Otherwise, refrigerate
for a minimum of one hour.

stove. Cook until the mixture forms a IW:I Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C
smooth paste and cleans the sides of the I . e or gas mark 4).
pot (referred to as panade). This swells and

gelatinizes the starch in the flour, helping 1'1:1 Remove the sheet pans from the
to set the structure of the shells (b). 1.1:1 freezer and brush the shapes with

~ Transfer the mixture to the bowl of egg (g). For cream puffs (round shapes),

i i i a stand mixer fitted with the paddle place a thin, small disc of engadine nuss

attac hment. torte dough (see page 76) on the moist-

a Mixon medium speed. Move the ened surface (h) . For chouquettes, another
Parisian treat, sprinkle the egg-washed
1:.1 flame of a torch around the bottom
rounds liberallywith sucre grain (pearl

of the exterior surface of the bowl for a sugar). Use granulated sugar if pearl sugar

few seconds to expel excess moisture, if is unavailable.

necessary. ~ Place the pastry shapes in the

I'!I Continue mixing and incorporate the I.Iii preheated oven and reduce the heat
1:1 eggs one at a time, pausing between
to 330°F (170°C or gas mark 3).

additions to permit full incorporation. The

paste should be fluid and viscous when all 1'1:1 Bake until the shapes are golden

of the egg has been incorporated (c). l1.,l:I brown and no moisture is visible

n Allow the mixture to cool to room tem- on the surface, approximately 18 to 22
minutes. To double-check for doneness,
a perature before pipingsothe pieces hold one of the shapes to your ear. If you

wi II retai n their shape. hear hissing, the moisture has not been

Pel Deposit the mixture in a pastry bag fully expelled, and the pastry she lls are not
1:1 fitted with a plain round tip approxi- done. Continue baking until there is
no sound coming from the shells.

mately Y2 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, filling II'!I Cool completely before cutting and/
the bag 60 percent full. Twist the open end I.i:.I or fi II ing.
of the bag tightly, closing it to prevent the

mixture from working its way out of the rear

of the bag as you pipe. ~ To fill the cream puffs, use a ser-

1:1 Line a sheet pan with parchment I D rated knife to remove and reserve
1:.1 or a silicone baking mat. To pipe
the top portion.
cream puffs and/or chouquettes, hold the
bag perpendicular to and slightly above IW:t Using a pastry bag fitted with a
I.I:J star tip, fill the cavity with creme

the prepared sheet pan. Holding the bag Chantilly (see page 17) (i). (Optional: place

stationary, apply even pressure until the a small amount of pastry cream [see page

surface of the pi ped shape is touching the 103] in the bottom of the cavity before pip-

tip. Release the pressure and remove the ing in the creme Chantilly.)

tip (d).

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE I I Bring the water, butter, sugar, and salt to a boil.

PROCEDURE (continued) . . Pipe the dough into round shapes for

~ Place the cut tops on top of W cream puffs.

1.1:.1 the filling.

I!'i' Sift confectioners' sugar over the

~ surface of the cream puffs and

refrigerate until service. If refrigerated for
a lengthy period of time, the puffs may
require a second sifting of sugar.

1:11 To fill the eclairs, use the tip of a

~ paring knife to cut a small hole in

each half of the bottom of the eclair.

I!!:I Usi ng a pastry bag fitted with a

~ plain (round) tip, fill the eclairs with

pastry cream (j).

I!t:I Dip the eclairs into tempered
e l l couverature (see page 27 for

instructions on tempering chocolate) and
refrigerate unti I service.

~ Assemble other desired shapes, if

r;sJ using (k).

aPate choux may be baked and fro-

zen for up to five weeks for future use.
Place the cooled shells in a resealable
plastic freezer bag and seal. Place
the bag in another resealable plastic
freezer bag and seal. To use, remove
the shells from the bag, place on a
parchment-lined sheet pan, and thaw
at room temperature for 30 to 40
minutes. Proceed as directed.

aShells made from pate choux are

frequently used for savory appetizers
and amuse bouches. They are split
and filled with prepared items such as
pate, chicken salad, tuna salad, etc.
A classic French potato preparation,
pommes de terre dauphinoise
is made by blending equal parts

apate choux and pureed potato.

Quenelles, or dumplings, are formed
and deep fried.

PATEAcHOUX

II Cook until dough pulls away from the sides of the pot. I I Note the consistency of the final dough.

I I 0Pipe the dough in straight lines for eclairs. Pipe the dough into shapes, if desired. I I Brush the dough with egg wash or water.

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

III Top the cream puffs with a disc of pate sucree. II Fill the cream puffs with creme Chantilly.

n Fill the eclairs with pastry cream. . , . Assemble desired shapes using creme

W Chantilly to hold pieces in place.









PUFF PASTRY

PUFF PASTRY

BY EN-MING HSU

Puff pastry is the base for many traditional INGREDIENTS
and contemporary pastries. The lamina-
tion process alternates layers of dough and U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
layers of butter, resu Iti ng ina flaky pastry.
European-style butter with its higher fat Pastry flour 7.10z 200g 1% cups + 1 tablespoon
content (reduced water content) is easier
to work with and provides better layering. Unsalted butter* 0.90z 25g 5V2 teaspoons
Puff pastry is the base for Napoleons,
Cold water 1/2 cup minus 1 tablespoon
pithiviers, the popular tarte tatin, and the
Distilled vinegar 2ml
Palmiers that follow. Its neutral buttery
flavor renders it equally useful for savory Salt 0.20z 5g % teaspoon
appl ications.
Unsalted butter* 6.20z 175 g 11/4 cups

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

PROCEDURE Pel Thirty minutes prior to laminating the 11':1 Unfold the parchment and place
I:JI dough, pound the 6.2 ounces (175 g)
D On a flat work surface, mound the ~ the softened butter in the center of
flour and make a well in the center (a). of butter until it is pliable (e). Your goal is
to make the butter and the dough the same the rectangle formed by the creases that is
1:1 Melt the 0.9 ounce (25 g) of butter consistency, not necessari Iy the same tem- closest to you (i).
U until it just begins to soften; it should perature. The butter should be malleable
so it can be extended between the layers of II!:t Fold the parchment over the butter
be viscous, not liquid. dough and so it can be folded.
I.I:J and refold the creases to seal the
a1:1 Combine the water and vinegar. Add r:I Fold a long rectangle of parchment
the salt and stir well to dissolve. envelope (j).
1:1 paper in half (t).
~ Pour the vinegar mixture and the vis- ~ Smooth out the butter packet with
I'i' With the short side of the parchment
i i i cous butter into the well in the center lJil a rolling pin and refrigerate until
~ facing you, fold down the top and
of the flour (b). needed (k).
bottom so that the center (unfolded part)
r.!I Using your fingertips, gradually work measures approximately 7.5 inches n=I When ready, remove the dough from
1:1 the flour into the liquid, using a plas- (19.5 cm) (g).
1.1:.1 the refrigerator and place on a lightly
tic scraper to assist if necessary (c). III Rotate the parchment 90 degrees,
then fold in the top and bottom so floured work surface.
I'!I Form the dough into a rough ball, then the center (unfolded part) measures ap-
1:1 flatten it, forming a rectangle (d). proximately 4.5 inches (1l.5 cm) (h). IW:I Using a rolling pin, shape the dough

aI : t Wrap the dough in plastic and refrig- ~ into a 5- x 12-inch (13 x 30.5 cm)
erate for a minimum of 2 hours. rectangle .

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE (continued)

I'I:IJ Remove the butter from the parchment

l D envelope and place it on top of the

dough , covering two-thirds of the surface (I).

~ Fold the uncovered dough over half of

~ the butter. Using a dry brush, remove

the excess flour from the dough (m).

I'I:t Fold the remaining third of the dough Butter is most plastic (pli- •
able) between 60- 70°F
~ (covered with butter) over the previous (16-21 °C). It is soft at 80°F ••
(21 °C). It has a melting
fold, as if fold ing a busi ness letter. Use a dry poi nt of 8SOF (31 °C), and •
brush to remove the excess flour. Manipulate due to the different crystals
the dough if necessary to ensure that the but- in its composition, it has a II Make a well in the center of the flour.
ter is completely encased (n). final melting point of 94°F
(34°C). If the butter is too •
I!'i' Wrap in plastic and refrigerate the soft or melts during any part
of the process, the layers I I Pound the butter with a rolling pin until it's softened.
~ dough for a minimum of 15 minutes. will be lost, along with the
flaky characteristic of the
r:II Remove the dough from the puff pastry. If the butter is
too cold, it will shatter dur-
~ refrigerator and place it on a lightly ing the process, resulting in
uneven lamination .
floured work surface with the exposed (short)
end nearest you. Layers of dough separated
by layers of butter create
1:1:1 Using a rolling pin, elongate the light and flaky pastry. To cre-
ate and maintain adequate
~ rectangle to 5 x 12 inches (13 x 3 layering (called lamina-
tion), the butter and the
0.5 cm). Roll evenly and efficiently to avoid dough should be the same
overmanipulating the dough. consistency. Most home
refrigerators have an internal
1':1:1 Repeat the folding process as temperature of approxi-
mately 40°F (4.4°C). At that
~ described above. temperature, butter is hard,
while dough remains mal-
~ Wrap in plastic and refrigerate the leable. Removi ng the butter
~ dough for a minimum of 30 minutes. from the refrigerator a few
minutes prior to beginning
!:t!!I Repeat steps 17 through 19 two the lamination procedure
ensures that the dough and
m~ more times. the butter wi II be the same
Refrigerate the dough for 2 hours. consistency, ideal for effec-
tive lamination.
~ Remove the dough from the

~ refrigerator and repeat the rolling

and folding process.

~ Wrap in plastic and refrigerate

~ overnight.

~ The following day, remove the dough

~ from the refrigerator and repeat the

rolling and folding process one final time.

I:9i' Refrigerate for a minimum of

~ 1 hour.

PUFF PASTRY

.-

•

..

• • • •

II Pour the liquids into the well. • II Form the dough into a rectangle.

. . . Gently mix until dough comes

ail together and is smooth.

O Fold a long rectangle of parchment . . . Fold the top and bottom so that the I I Rotate the parchment 90°. Fold in the top
in half. and bottom so the center measures approx-
1:1 center measures approximately
imately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm).
7.5 inches (19.5 cm). (continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

•

•

n Place the malleable butter in D Fold the parchment over the butter and . . Gently roll the surface to smooth out the
the envelope. refold the creases to seal.
U butter.

..

:

•

D Place the butter rectangle on • i i i Fold the butter-covered third over the
top ofthe dough. previous fold.
liD Use a dry brush to remove excess flour.

PALMIERS

PALMIERS

BY EN-MING HSU

Palmiers are crisp, light, flaky, and sweet INGREDIENTS U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
without being gooey. They are considered
petit fours sec- dry petit fours. They Puff pastry dough 1 recipe 1 recipe 1 recipe
are served with coffee and tea as well as Flour, for work surface
by themselves. They frequently appear Sugar, for sprinkling
with other dry petit fours on buffets and
mingmardise platters. They are best when
served fresh; freezi ng wi II cause them to
lose some of the ir crispiness.

PROCEDURE (see photos, page70-71)

D Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C or n Fold the edge of the dough facing IW'!t Lay the slices cut side down on a
gas mark 5).
1:1 you one-quarter of the way toward ~ parchment-lined sheet pan (fl.

a Remove the dough from the refrig- the center (b). ~ Place the sheet pan in the oven

g erator and place on a Iightly floured 1:1 Fold again, ending with the folded I.I:J and bake until the bottoms of the
U edge in the center of the dough.
work surface. palmiers are golden brown and caramel-
ized, approximately 15 minutes.
1:1 Using a rolling pin, extend the r:I Fold the opposite edge of the dough
1:1 one-quarter of the way toward the ~ Remove the pan from the oven .
1::1 dough until into a rectangle until it
center (c). I.Iil Working quickly, turn over each of
is approximately lis inch (0 .3 cm) thick
1:1 Fold this side again, meeting the the slices and return the pan to the oven.
and approximately 16 inches (40.6 cm) 1:1 first folded half in the center.
by 10 inches (25.4 cm). rr.I Continue baking until the top is
iii' Fold the two halves together, ending 1.1:.1 golden and caramelized , approxi-
~ Just before the dough is the proper
~ with the open side facing you (d). mately 6 to 8 minutes.
i i i thickness, clear the work surface of
mUsing a sharp knife, cut the strip I'I'!I Coolon the pan and store in an
flour and cover it with sugar. Sprinkle the into even slices, approximately
top of the dough with sugar (a). 1.1:1 ai rtight container.
% inch to V2 inch (1 cm to 1.25 cm) thick
a Extend the dough to the proper
a thickness. (e) .

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

If desired, place the pastry I I Sprinkle sugar over the surface of the dough.
dough in the freezer for
45 minutes before bak- #•
ing. Refrigerating the puff
pastry dough for a minimum I I Fold the two halves together.
of one hour afterforming
the products allows the
dough to relax, which will
reduce shrinkage. However,
palmiers are usually baked
directly after fabrication
because the sugar can
liquefy in a humid refrigera-
tor if they are refrigerated
too long.

PALMIERS

II I IFold the edge of the dough one-quarter of the way toward the center. Fold the opposite edge in the same way.

III Cut the strip into slices. D Place the slices cut-side down on a prepared pan.









THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

TART CRUSTI
ENGADINE NUSS TORTE

BY FRANZ ZIEGLER

The engadine nuss torte is one of the most INGREDIENTS
famous pastries (not including chocolate)
from Switzerland. It combines a tender, U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
sl ightly flaky pastry with chewy, nutty
caramel. Walnuts are traditionally used; Flour 10.60z 300g 1% cups
however, this version incorporates slivered
almonds to fill in the natural gaps formed Confectioners' sugar 1.10z 30g
when only walnuts are used. One of the
remarkable qualities of the engadine nuss Salt .070z 2g lJ4 teaspoon
torte is its shelf Iife. It keeps for weeks
when stored tightly covered at room tem- Unsalted butter* 5.30z 150g 11 tablespoons
perature. It is sturdy enough to ship around
the world; there are several companies in Egg, lightly beaten 3 eggs
Switzerland that do so. Serve th is rich torte
in thin slivers. Lemon juice From half a lemon

Engadine Nuss Torte Filling

(see recipe following) 1 recipe

Whole egg 1 egg

Recipe note: Use cold , European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

TART CRUSTIENGADINE NUSS TORTE

PROCEDURE (see photos, pages 78-83)
mUsing a rolling pin, roll the dough in
D Combine the flour, confectioners' different directions to create a disc 1:11 Place the filling on the sprayed work
sugar, and salt. Make into a mound on
~ surface and form a ball. Flatten the
a flat work surface. that is approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
ball and press it out until it is nearly the
1:1 Cut the cold butter into cubes and larger than the tart pan . Rotate the dough size of the tart pan .
U add it to the dry ingredients. 90° several times throughout the process
and dust the work surface with more flour, I':I!!:t Place the filling on top of the half-

a1:1 Using a pastry scraper, begin chop- if necessary. ~ baked crust and press it evenly to
ping the butter into the flour until the
butter is in small particles and the mixture II!:t Roll the dough to a thickness of the edges of the pan (i).

~ 1/4 inch (0 .6 cm). With the tines of I!t:I Lightly moisten the top edge of the

resembles coarse cornmeal (a). a fork , pierce (dock) the dough and return ~ dough with water (j).

to the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 ~ Remove the dough circle(s) from the

~ Make a well in the mixture. Add the minutes to minimize shrinkage. ~ refrigerator and slide it into position

i i i lightly beaten egg and lemon juice. IrI:I Use a circle cutter to cut two discs on top of the filling (k).
r.I Using your fingertips, gradually work I.I:J of dough for each of the tart pants)
a=.I the flour/butter mixture into the liquid ~ Press the edges of the circle into the
you are uSing.
~ moistened dough around the edge
usi ng a plastic scraper to assist, if neces- ~ Line the bottom(s) of the pants) with
sary. of the pan, encasing the filling.
I.Si.I one circle of dough each (e). Place
1!9!1 Lightly beat the remaining egg.
~ Form the dough into a rough ball (b). the dough circles for the top of the torte in
the refrigerator. ~ Brush the surface of the dough with
W Use the heel of your hand to smear
beaten egg (I).
the dough across the work surface. Gather n : I Place the tart pans in the oven and
the dough into a ball and repeat the smear- ~ Using the tines of a fork, apply
ing process with the heel of your hand. ~ bake until half baked, approximately
~ medium pressure to make a
8 to 10 minutes; the dough will be pale
decorative pattern in the torte top (m).
a~ Form the dough into a tight ball, then and slightly dry. Remove from the oven .
wrap in plastic (c) and press to form a I!!:I Puncture the surface of the dough
IrI'!I Usi ng the dough tri mmings, form
mdisc (d). ~ in a few places to allow steam
Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. I,i:.I a 1/2-inch 0.3 cm) cylinder long
to escape.
enough to wrap around the interior edge of
~ Bake until golden brown,
the tart pan (f).
~ approximately 30 to 35 minutes.
Pet Preheat oven to 350°F 080°C ~ Lightly moisten the edge of the
I!'i' Remove from the oven and place on
1::1 or gas mark 4). lSI dough circle in the tart pan with
~ a cooling rack.
II.I!III':t Remove the dough from the water (g).
refrigerator and place it on a lightly
floured work surface. Irr.t Press the cylinder into the fluted
I.I:J sides of the tart pan , sealing it to the

bottom circle of dough (h).

~ Remove the filling (see recipe

~ following) from the refrigerator.

r!'i' Spray a work surface with nonstick

~ cooking spray.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

•

. . ,,

II Note the texture of the flour mixture. I I Form the dough into a rough ball.

Rolling the dough out in sev-
eral directions prevents the
dough from sticking and will
minimize the possibility of
elasticity (shrinkage in the
doughl- if the dough is con-
tinuously rolled in the same
direction , the gluten could
develop in one direction ,
which causes the dough to
shrink during baking.

• -.

II Line the bottom of the tart pan with a dough circle. •

D Roll the dough trimmings into a
long cylinder.

TART CRUSTIENGADINE NUSS TORTE

•
•

•

II Wrap the dough in plastic. I I Press the dough into a disc.

I I Moisten the edges ofthe dough. III Press the cylinder into the sides of the I I The filled tart pan.
tart pan.

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

• I I Slide another dough circle on top of the filling.

D Moisten the top edge of the dough with water.

Partially baki ng the base
of the tart priortofilling it
ensures that it will be fully
baked when the caramel
and tart top have baked.
The caramel liquefies a bit
before it firms after baki ng.

Rolling the dough into a
cyl inder to flute the sides is
an innovative solution to an
often troublesome task, es-
pecially in a warm kitchen.

D Brush the top of the torte with beaten egg. J!I!II Use a fork to make a decorative pattern
l1li in the torte top.

ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING

ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING

BY FRANZ ZIEGLER

The torte filling will keep in the refrigerator INGREDIENTS
for up to one month. It has a high percent-
age of sugar and little to no water activity, u.s. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
so no harmful bacteria can gain a foothold.
Walnut halves 7.70z 218g 2% cups

Slivered almonds 1.60z 44g % cup

Heavy cream %cup

Water % cup minus 1 teaspoon

Honey 1 tablespoon

Vanilla bean % bean

Unsalted butter, softened* 0.90z 26.3g 2 tablespoons

Glucose 0.4 oz 11.3g 1 teaspoon

Granulated sugar 8.80z 250g 1% cup

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE II Toast the walnuts and almonds in the oven.

D Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C or gas Incorporating glucose into
mark 4). the caramel adds acidity,
which inhibits sugar crystal-
1':1 Combine the walnuts and almonds lization. It also contributes
U on a sheet pan and toast lightly in the to the pliability and shine
of the caramel. When you
oven, approximately 10 to 12 minutes (a). don't use glucose in cooking
After the nuts are toasted, open the sugar, you must meticu-
oven door and leave them in the oven lously wash the sides of the
to remain warm. pot with a wet pastry brush
throughout the process to
1:1 Place the heavy cream, water, honey, prevent crystallization. It's a
1:1 vanilla bean, and butter in a heavy- simple solution to some-
thing that could easily lead
bottomed pot. Keep warm over medium to failure.
heat, keeping the temperature below the
boiling point.

~ Place the glucose in a separate heavy-

i i i bottomed pot with tall, steep sides

and place over medium heat.

1:1 Cook until the glucose liquefies, then
1:1 add a small amount of the sugar (b).

Cook until the sugar is caramelized (c).

.:II Continue adding sugar gradually until
i : I all of the sugar has been added and it

is caramelized (d).

a With caution, gradually add the

U warmed cream mixture to the cara-

mel. The disparity between the two tem-
peratures will cause rapid, intense boiling
in the pot (e). Use a long-handled spoon or
spatu la to stir.

1:1 When the cream mixture has been
I:J fully incorporated, cook the contents

of the pot to a temperature of 232°F
(111°C) (f).

a Add the warmed nuts and stir to

1:1 combine (g).

IE Pour the caramel-nut mixture into
• a container and refrigerate until
needed.

. . . Carefull~ add the cream mixture to the caramelized

g sugar mixture.

ENGADINE NUSS TORTE FILLING

. . Add a little of the sugar at a time to . . . Cook until the sugar mixture . . Gradually add the remaining sugar,

I.!I the glucose. ail caramelizes. I ! I cooking until caramelized.

O Use a thermometer to check the temperature I I Stir the warmed nuts into the caramel.
of the liquid.

84 THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE









CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

BY THADDEUS DUBOIS

Pastry chef Thaddeus Dubois's chocolate INGREDIENTS

amousse uses a classic pate bombe U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
400g
preparation, a technique that provides Dark chocolate* 140z 30g 2% cups
600g 31/2 yolks
stability to all mousses and adds richness, Unsweetened chocolate loz 175g 11/2 eggs
especially to chocolate mousse. 75 g
75g 113 cup
Heavy cream lib, 50z 150g %cup

Egg yolk 60z

Whole egg 2.50z

Water 2.50z

Granulated sugar 5.30z

Recipe notes: Eggs should be at room temperature.

*Couverature quality 55-64%

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE

DCombine the dark and unsweetened
chocolate in a heatproof bowl and
place over a pot of simmering water to melt.
After the chocolate has melted, maintain a
temperature of lOO°F (3JOC).

1':11 n the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
U the whip attachment or with a handheld

whisk, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks
(a). Refrigerate.

I ! I Place the egg yolks and eggs in the

~ bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the

whip attachment. Whip the egg yolks and
eggs on medium speed .

• Stir the water and sugar together in a Thaddeus prefers to cook II Whip the cream to soft peaks.
the syrup to 180°F (82°C)
i i i small saucepan. Cook over medium instead of 250°F (121 °C) , m. . Add the melted chocolate to the egg and
as has been traditionally sugar mixture.
heat until the mixture reaches 180°F (82°C) suggested; less because "it
and the sugar is completely dissolved. increases the moisture level
and allows all the syrup to
ar.!I Reduce the mixing speed to low and flow from the pan into the
slowly pour the sugar syrup into the egg whipping egg mixture. It is
mixture, avoiding the sides of the bowl and advantageous to cook it like
the whip attachment (b). this if the mousse is to be
served in either an edible or
I'!I After the syrup has been added, in- inedible container in that
1:1 crease the mixi ng speed to the mousse can be served
sl ightly softer, creati ng a
medium-high. more luxurious mouthfeel.

a Continue whipping until the mixture is

a pale yellow, the outside of the mixing

bowl is cool, and the mixture forms a ribbon
(when the wh ip is Iifted out of the mixture,
the mixture falls on the surface of the mix-
ture and does not sink into the mixture). This

is your pEde abombe (c).

r.I Add the melted chocolate to the pate

aI:J bombe. Mix on medium speed to

incorporate (d).

1:1 When the chocolate is fully incorporated,
1:1 fold one-third of the whipped cream

into the chocolate mixture. This will lighten
the mixture so the remaining cream will not
deflate when folded into the mixture. Fold in
the remaining cream (e).

IE Spoon or ladle into cups, glasses, or
molds (f), or leave in the mixing bowl
and portion later.

mCover and refrigerate the mousse until
it is ready to serve.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

,,

II Pour the sugar into the eggs while mixing. B Note the consistency of the whipped egg and sugar mixture. This

IiiI is your pate abombe.

III Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. o Spoon the chocolate mousse into serving glasses.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE







THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM

BY KIRSTEN TIBBALLS

INGREDIENTS Italian buttercream is a lighter alternative
to French and American buttercreams.
u.s. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume Pastry chefs like it because it uses all the
egg whites left over from pastries that
Granulated sugar lib, 5.2 oz 600 g 3 cups minus require an abundance of egg yolks. Pouring
the hot sugar syrup into the whipping egg
2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon white cooks it to a safe temperature. Stored
in an airtight container, Italian buttercream
Water 1h cup + 2 tablespoons keeps for days in the refrigerator and is
useful for many projects. To use, remove
Egg white 11 egg whites it from the refrigerator and leave at room
temperature until it is soft and spreadable.
Unsalted butter* lib, 10.2 oz 743g 31,4 cups Transfer the buttercream to the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the paddle attach-
Salt 0 .0 4 0 z 1g Va teaspoon ment. Mix on medium-slow speed until
the buttercream is smooth and Iight. In a
Vanilla extract 1 teaspoon hurry? Melt a small amount of the cold but-
tercream in the bowl of a stand mi xer (use
Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content). a torch or stove flame). Begin mixing on
medium speed, adding the remaining cold
buttercream in increments until it is fully
incorporated and the mixture is smooth
and creamy.

PROCEDURE ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM

D in a heavy-bottomed pot, stir the II Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks.
sugar into the water. Place the pot over
medium-high heat. Place the probe of a n Wash down the sides of the pot to prevent
digital thermometer in the pot.
I!I sugar crystals from forming.
~ While the sugar mixture cooks, begin

Ir:II whipping the egg whites on medium

speed in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the whip attachment (a).

a1:1 Do not stir the sugar syrup while it
cooks; wash the sides of the pot with a
wet brush to prevent crystallization (b). Boil
the syrup until it reaches 250°F (120°C) (c).
Remove the pot from the stove.

~ Lower the mixer speed to medium-low

Ii.I and pour the syrup slowly into the egg

whites in between the whip and the side of
the bowl (d).

r.I After all the syrup has been incorpo-
1:.1 rated, resume mixingon medium speed

and whip until the meringue is cool.

n Cream the butter in a mixing bowl to

1:1 soften it, or pound it with a rolling pin

unti I it's pi iable. Add the butter gradually to
the cooled meringue.

a1:1 Add the salt and vanilla after half of the
butter has been incorporated.

I : t Continue wh ipping until all ingredients
I:J are combined and the buttercream is

smooth, Iight, and creamy.

I : t Use directly or store in the refrigerator

1:.1 until needed. To use refrigerated but-

tercream, melt a small portion over simmer-
ing water and add it to the cold buttercream
in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment. Whip smooth .

VARIATIONS:

D For chocolate buttercream, add 8.8
ounces (250 g) melted chocolate along
with the salt and vanilla (e).

~ For mocha buttercream, make a paste

Ir:II with hot water and espresso-gri nd

instant coffee and add to the chocolate but-
tercream to taste, approximately 2 ounces
(57 g), along with the salt and vanilla .

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

I I Check the temperature of the sugar syrup.

Salt in buttercream? In
small amounts, salt bal-
ances the flavors of butter
and vanilla and enhances
the sweetness without the
use of more sugar. It also
mitigates the greasiness
some people perceive when
eating buttercream.

With its light texture,
Ital ian buttercream is a
flavor chameleon. Simply
adding melted bittersweet
chocolate, coffee extract, or
liqueurto buttercream can
flavor it to suit any occasion.

•• •

I I Slowly pour the syrup into the whipped egg whites. I I The finished buttercream