The Pastry Chef's Apprentice-OCR

100 THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

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--------------------------------





PASTRY CREAM

PASTRY CREAM

BY ROBERT ELLINGER

Seldom eaten alone, pastry cream high- INGREDIENTS
lights and elevates other components. It is
one of the first items a pastry cook learns U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
to make on the path to becoming a pastry
chef, and its cooking is a daily ritual in Whole milk lib, l.6 oz 500g 2 cups + 2 tablespoons
busy pastry kitchens. It is used as a baked
filling in tarts, Parisian flan, and Danishes. Vanilla bean 1/2 bean 1f2 bean 1f2 bean
It is elevated to as starring role in Napo-
leons, eclairs, and fruit tarts. Cornstarch l.30z 38g %cup

Granulated sugar 4.4 oz 126g 1,4 cup + 1 tablespoon

Egg yolk 3.30z 93g 2 yolks

Unsalted butter, softened* l.20z 33g 11/2 tablespoons

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE

D in a heavy-bottomed, nonreactive pot,
heat the milk, the vanilla bean pod,
and its scrapings until bubbles begin to form
around the edge of the pot (a). Set aside for
30 minutes, allowing the vanilla to infuse
the milk.

!:lIn a medium bowl, combine the corn-

U starch and 2.2 ounces (63 g) of sugar.

Add the egg yol k and use a wh isk to make a
smooth paste (b).

I!I Stir the remaining 2.2 ounces (63 g) of
1:1 sugar into the infused vanilla/milk. Re-

turn the pot to the stove and bring to a boil.

• When the mixture begins to boil, Tempering equalizes the I I Bring the milk and vanilla bean and
temperatures of the two scrapings to a boil.
IiJI remove the pot from the stove. Slowly components. Pouring cold
eggs into the heated milk/ m. . Pour tempered mixture into remaining
pour one-third of the boiling mixture into the sugar mixture would result hot milk.
yolk/starch/sugar paste, whisking briskly. in particles of coagulated
This is known as tempering (c). egg. In add ition, the pastry
cream would not be as thick.
a Quickly stir the tempered mixture into Cornstarch is the primary
a the remaining milk mixture in the pot thickening agent in pastry
cream; however, egg yolk
and return to medium-high heat (d). has a supporting role in
the thickening thanks to
n Stirring vigorously and constantly with its binding and coagulat-
ing properties. Egg yolks
1:1 a stiff wire whisk, cook until the mixture also provide emulsification
(smoothness), richness,
is bubbling, approximately 2 or 3 minutes. and color.

a Remove from the stove and pour into In many kitchens, the
butter is stirred into the
a a shallow container (e). Alternatively, pastry cream directly after
removing it from the stove.
pour the pastry cream into a clean bowl, then As with many savory sauces,
place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water pastry cream is finished with
and stir periodically to cool. butter for a smooth, creamy
mouthfeel and richness.
a When the pastry cream is 86-88°F Combining the butter with
the pastry cream when they
1:1 (30-31 °C), remove it from the ice bath are both just below the melt-
ing poi nt of butter wi II resu It
and briskly whisk in the softened butter (f). in a creamier, richer pastry
cream .
1:1 To prevent a skin from forming, place
R:I plastic wrap or parchment paper on the

surface of the pastry cream and refrigerate
until cool.

IE When cool, transfer the pastry cream
to a covered, airtight container. Use
within three days. Before using, place the
pastry cream in a bowl and whisk smooth.

PASTRY CREAM

II • I I Slowly add hot milk to egg yolk paste, stirring constantly.
Whisk the egg yolks with the cornstarch/sugar mixture.

III Pour pastry cream into a shallow container to cool. o Whisk in the butter.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE PROCEDURE

FRUIT TART D Prepare the engad ine nuss torte tart
crust as directed on page 76.
BY ROBERT ELLINGER
1:1 After the dough has firmed and
INGREDIENTS U relaxed in the refrigerator for 2 hours,

U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume place it on a lightly floured work surface.
1 recipe
Engadine nuss torte crust 57 g a Tap the pastry a few times with a roll-
395g % cup
Chocolate, melted 20z % cup 1:1 ing pin to soften the dough for rolling.
500g
Pastry cream 13.90z 227 g ~ Roll the dough in different directions
170g
Fruit: fresh berries and 1 lb., 1.6 oz i i i to create a disc that is approximately
assorted firm-fleshed
varieties, sliced and diced 3 inches (7 .5 cm) larger than the tart
pan. Rotate the dough 90° several times
Apricot preserves 80z throughout the process and dust the work
surface with flour, if necessary.
Simple syrup 60z
a Fold the dough in half and transfer

1:1 it to the tart pan . Gently press the

dough into the fluted sides of the pan (a).

n Run the rolling pin over the edges to

1:1 trim the excess dough (b).

~ Place in the refrigerator for 30 min-

D utes to 2 hours to allow the dough to

relax, keep ing shrinkage at a min imum.

w:t Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C or gas
1:1 mark 4).

I : t Remove the dough from the refrig-
1:1 erator and use the tines of a fork to

pierce (dock) the dough in the bottom
of the pan. Refrigerate for at least 30
minutes.

!Wi' Lay a piece of parchment paper

~ inside the lined tart pan and fill with

dry beans or rice.

mBake until golden brown, approxi-
mately 12 to 15 minutes.

rI:t Remove the pan from the oven.
I.Ii:S Remove the parchment liner

and beans.

1'1:'1 Brush the surface of the baked
I.I:J dough with beaten egg and return

the pan to the oven for 5 minutes, creating
a seal to prolong the crispness of the tart
shell after fi II ing with the pastry cream .

FRUIT TART

- <

• •

•• •

" I I Run a rolling pin over the edges to trim.

•

..

•

•

II Press the dough into the tart pan.

.~.. •

B Brush a thin layer of melted chocolate I I Fill the shell with an even layer of pastry cream.

IIiiI over the surface of the dough.

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE I I Arrange the fruit on top of the pastry cream.

PROCEDURE (continued)

. . . , Remove the shell from the oven

I.IiJ and place on a cooling rack. When

the shell is cool, remove it from the pan
and paint the surface of the dough with a
thin layer of melted chocolate to ensure a
dry, crisp crust (c).

I'r.!I Deposit an even layer of pastry
IJ:.I cream in the tart shell, filling it

75-80 percent full (d).

~ Arrange fresh fruit in a symmetrical

1.1:.1 or random pattern on the surface of

the pastry cream (e).

~ Combine the apricot preserves

I.D and simple syrup in a small

saucepan over medium-high heat and
boil approximately 1 minute or until the
mixture is smooth. Check for doneness:
the glaze should flow off a spoon, and
when dropped onto a cold plate, it should
thicken slightly. Strain and use warm. If
the glaze th ickens, rewarm and/or th in
with more syrup.

~ Using a brush, lightly apply the

~ apricot glaze to the fruit (fl. It will

seal the fruit, prolonging freshness and
maintaining its placement and providing
a shiny surface.

1'1:' Refrigerate until service. Fruit

I.I:.t tarts are best if eaten the day of

preparation.

Rolling the dough out in sev- o Brush the fruit with apricot glaze. -
eral directions prevents the
dough from sticking and will
minimize the possibility of
elasticity (shrinkage in the
dough)-if the dough is con-
tinuously rolled in the same
direction, the gluten could
develop in one direction,
which causes the dough to
shrink during baking.









LADYFINGERSIROULAOE

LADYFINGERSIROULADE

BY JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER

A simple cake with no fat other than the INGREDIENTS U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
trace amount found in the egg yolks, this
cake is light, tender, and delicate. It can Cake flour 4.30z 122 g 1 cup + 1 teaspoon
be baked in rounds for layer cakes, as Salt
ladyfingers, or in a thin sheet to be used as Egg white .040z 19 l/S teaspoon
a roulade. Granulated sugar 6 egg whites
1 cup + 2 tablespoons
6.50z 183g
+ 1 teaspoon
Egg yolk
Vanilla extract 6 egg yolks
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting 1 tablespoon

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE I I Whip the egg whites and sugar until the meringue
forms a soft peak.
PROCEDURE
I I Fill a pastry bag 60 percent full with the batter.
D Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C or gas mark 5).
Line two half sheet pans with parchment paper
and set aside.

fJ Sift the flour and salt three times and reserve.

I!Iln the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip-

1:1 ping attachment, whip the egg whites on

medium speed.

~ When the egg whites are frothy, begin adding the

i i i sugar gradually.

r.!I Continue whipping until all the sugar is added and
a=I the meringue is shiny and forms a soft peak (a).

n Reduce the mixing speed to low and incorporate

1:1 the egg yolks and vanilla extract (b).

a1:1 Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold the flour/
salt mixture into the batter (c).

I'!t For ladyfingers, use a spatula to place the batter
I:J in a pastry bag fitted with a medium plain

(round) tip (d).

r:I Deposit enough batter to fill the bag 60 percent

1:1 full. Twist the open end of the bag tightly to pre-

vent seepage.

IE With even pressure, pipe approximately 4-inch
(10 cm) strips of batter onto the parchment-
Iined pans (e).

mUsing a sifter or shaker, liberally dust the piped
ladyfingers with confectioners' sugar (f).

II:t The ladyfingers may be placed in the oven at this

I.Ii:II point, or you can lift the parchmentfrom the pan

and hold it in a vertical position to remove the excess
sugar (g) . The amount of sugar on the surface of the
ladyfingers determines the crust color and contributes
to control Iing the shape.

1'1:1 Bake until the ladyfingers are light golden brown

~ and firm, yet tender.

~ Using a spatula, remove the ladyfingers from the

I.Ii.i parchment after they have cooled.

n : I Store in an airtight container orfreeze for

I",t=.I futu re use.

LADYFINGERSIROULADE

II Add the egg yolks and vanilla extract. I I Add the flour and fold in with a spatula.

r

III Pipe the batter in 4-inch (10 cm) strips. O Generously sprinkle the ladyfingers with II!II Lift the parchment paper to shake off
confectioners'sugar. 1:1 excess sugar, if desired.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

~ ..

BUCHE DE NOEL

BY JORDI PUIGVERT COLOMER

Buche de Noel is the iconic Christmas cake INGREDIENTS
associated with France. It is universal in
its popularity, and the entire family can U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
participate in its simple construction and
decoration. Although any flavor combina- Confectioners' sugar, 700-800g V3 recipe
tion of cake and filling can be used, this 624g
version is classic vanilla and chocolate. for dusting As needed V2 recipe

Chocolate mousse lib, 8.7 oz-l Ib,
(see page 89) 12.2oz

Chocolate buttercream lib, 60z
(see page 96)

Cocoa powder, for dusting As needed

Italian meringue
(see nougat recipe, page 152)

BOCHE DE NOEL

PROCEDURE (see photos, pages 118-120)

D Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C or gas IrI:I Remove the cake from the refrig-
mark 5). I.I:J erator. Remove the parchment and

I ! t Spread the ladyfingers/roulade batter brush off the excess confectioners' sugar.
U evenly on a parchment-lined half
~ Slice one end of the cake at an
sheet pan (a, b).
I l i i angle (i). Reserve the cut portion to
1:1 Bake until the surface is light golden
1:1 brown and the edges have pulled form a stump on the log.

away from the pan, approximately 6 to IIr.:I Cover the cake with chocolate but-
8 minutes. The cake should spring back l1.l:.I tercream (page 96) (jL
when touched in the center and pull away
from the sides. I'Ip Place the stump on top of the cake

~ Remove from the oven and allow to 1.1:.1 near the uncut end of the log and

i i i cool at room temperature. cover it with the buttercream (k).

a Sift confectioners' sugar onto a sheet m Drag a fork through the buttercream
to create a tree-bark pattern (I).
~ of parchment paper.
1m Preheat the oven to 200°F (93°C).

I'!I Loosen the cake and remove from the ~ Place the meringue in a pastry bag
i : I pan (c) . Invert it onto the sugar-dusted
~ fitted with a medium plain (round)
parchment.
tip. With even pressure, and using the
a Remove the baking parchment from same technique as for piping cream
puffs, pipe small bulbs for the caps (m).
a the cake (d). Use a spoon to smooth out the tops, if
necessary (n). With the same pressure,
r.t Spread the chocolate mousse pipe the stems.

1:1 (page 89) in an even layer on the I!'i' Lightly dust the mushroom caps

exposed surface of the cake (e). ~ with cocoa prior to baki ng (0) .

r:I Gri p and Iift the farthest edge of the 1:11 Use a small amount of melted

11:1 parchment and use it to begin rolling ~ chocolate to attach the stems
to the caps.
the filled cake into a cylinder (f).
I:!:t Bake the meringue pieces with the
~ Continue rolling by pulling the
~ oven door ajar until the meringue is
~ parchment upward and toward you,
dry, approximately 1 hour.
until the bottom edge of the cake is cen-
tered on the bottom of the cyl inder. 1:1:1 Apply a small amount of but-

mTighten the cylinder by hand (g) or ~ tercream to the bottoms of the
by using a straightedge against the
cylinder's edge and pulling the far edge of mushrooms, and then position them on
the parchment away from you (h). and around the log.

11':1 Refrigerate the cake until the choco-

~ late mousse is set, approximately

2 to 3 hours.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

I I Pour the batter onto a parchment-lined half II Spread evenly with an offset spatula.
sheet pan.

.-

I I Spread chocolate mousse over the cake. O Use the parchment paper to roll the filled I I Tighten the cylinder by hand.
cake into a cylinder.

BOCHE DE NOEL

II Loosen the cake from the pan. I I Remove the parchment from the bottom of the cake.

- .. '.

• " ,

I I Or tighten by holding a straightedge •
against the cake while pulling on the
parchment. ." n Cover the cake with chocolate
buttercream.
I I Cut off one end of the cake at an angle. (continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

.• , ,. --" . . n. ...
Use a fork to create a tree-bark pattern.
III Cover the stump with the buttercream.

P.I!I Pipe meringue for the mushroom I I Smooth out the tops of the caps, -:w Lightly dust the mushrooms
l1li caps and stems. if necessary.
g with cocoa.



122 THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE





BLACK FOREST TORTE

BLACK FOREST TORTE

UPDATED CLASSIC

Black Forest torte is a staple of German INGREDIENTS
bakeries. It is bold with the flavors of tart
cherries, Kirschwasser, and chocolate. U. S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
It is finished with creme Chantilly, which
provides a smooth, slightly sweet, and sub- Unsalted butter* 8.8oz 248g 2 sticks + 1 tablespoon
tle contrast. This version incorporates sour
cream to balance the pH of the recipe- Granulated sugar 9.7oz 276g 11/4 cups
assisting the leavening power of the baking
soda, contributi ng a tangy flavor, extending Cocoa 3.8oz 108g 1 cup
the keeping qualities, and intensifying the
"chocolate" color of the cake. Hot tea 6 tablespoons

Sour cream 8.8oz 248g 1 cup

Whole egg 5 large eggs

Vanilla extract 1 tablespoon

Cake flour 6.50z 185g 1114 cups

Baking soda 0.2oz 5g 1 teaspoon

Salt O.loz 4g % teaspoon

Chocolate, finely chopped 6.50z 185g

Recipe note: Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE I I The batter will be thick after adding the cocoa.

PROCEDURE ..

D Assemble the ingredients and allow ..
them to come to room temperature.
. . Divide the batter between the two
a Spray two 9 x 2-i nch (23 x 5 cm) cake
I!I prepared pans.
U pans with nonstick cooking spray and

line with parchment.

I!I Preheat oven to 350°F (l80°Cor gas
1:1 mark 4).

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with

i i i the paddle attachment, cream the

butter and sugar on medium speed until the
mixture is pale yellow, light, and fluffy.

r.:I Turn the mixer off and add the cocoa.
1:1 Mix on low speed to combine (a).

a After the cocoa is incorporated, mix

1:.11 on medium-low speed and add the hot

tea gradually, waiting for each addition to be
incorporated before adding the next (b). Th is
will prevent cocoa lumps and eliminates the
need for the messy sifting of cocoa .

a~ Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and
paddle with a bowl scraper.

a Add the sour cream and incorporate on

1:1 low speed.

1:1 Combine the egg and vanilla and add to
1:1 the batter while mixing on low speed .

IE Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl
and paddle.

m Sift together the cake flour, baking
soda, and salt. Add to the batter and
mix until just combined.

IW:t Add the chopped chocolate and mix

~ until just combined (c) .

IW:I Divide the batter between the pre-
I.I:J pared pans (d), spreading evenly (e).

~ Bake in the center of the oven unti I a

I.IiJ wooden pick inserted in the center of

the cakes comes out clean, approximately
22 to 25 minutes.

BLACK FOREST TORTE

I I Add the hot tea slowly. II Add the finely chopped chocolate.

III Spread the batter evenly. Any tea may be used to
make the cake. Earl Grey
goes well with chocolate.
Orange, bergamot, and
spiced teas also enhance
chocolate flavors. Or, you
may use plain hot water in
place of the tea .

Adding finely chopped
chocolate to the cake batter
intensifies the chocolate
taste without the bitterness,
dryness, and toughness
often associated with the
cocoa. And who doesn't
want small flecks of choco-
late melting in their mouth?

•

•

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

mAdd the drained cherries.
mCool and reserve (c).

KIRSCH/CHERRY ASSEMBLING THE TORTE
TORTE FILLING
D Cut each cake in half horizontally,
INCLUSIONS U. S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume creating four layers. Wrap one layer
5.30z in plastic and refrigerate or freeze for future
Ingredient 3.50z 150g % cup + 1 tablespoon use.
Granulated sugar + 1 teaspoon
lib, 1.6 oz 1:1 Place one layer on a cake circle or
Water 100g 1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons U servi ng platter. Brush the layer with
Tart cherries in juice O.loz
500g 1 cup + 1 tablespoon a mixture of equal parts kirschwasser and
Kirschwasser + Ij4 teaspoon simple syrup.
Red currant jelly
Cornstarch 1,4 cup minus 2 teaspoons I ! I Use a pastry bag to pipe concentric
1:1 circles of creme Chantilly on the cake
4 teaspoons
top. Spoon cherry filling between the circles
3.6g of creme Chantilly (d).

PROCEDURE ~ Place a second cake layer on the

D in a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the sugar, half of the water, the juice of the i i i creme/cherry filling. Brush the cake
cherries, and Kirschwasser (a). Cook over medium heat, boiling until the liquid is
reduced to a th ick syrup (a), approximately 10 to 15 minutes. with the syrup mixture. Repeat step 3, then
add a third cake layer. Brush the third layer
1':1 To check for the proper consistency, place a spoonful of the syrup on a granite surface with the syrup mixture.
U or a chilled white plate. When the syrup is cool, pull a spoon through it. If the streak
r:I Using an icing spatula, apply a thin
from the spoon remains open, the syrup is ready (b). 1:1 coat of creme Chantilly to the top and

II Add the red currant jelly to the pot and melt over medium heat. sides of the cake, creating a crumb coat.
This prevents crumbs on the outside of the
~ Make a slurry with the remaining water and cornstarch. Add it to the boiling cherry/ cake. Freeze until firm.

i i i syrup mixture. Cook until thick and clear, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. n Remove the cake from the freezer.

1:1 Using an icing spatula, cover the sides

and surface of the cake with an even coat of
creme Chantilly.

a Using a pastry bag fitted with a star

U tip, pipe rosettes of creme Chantilly

around the top edge.

1:1 Rinse, drain, and dry maraschino cher-
1:1 ries. Place the cherries on the rosettes.

r:llf desired, use a paper cornet to pipe

1:1 decorative melted chocolate on the

torte.

~ Apply chocolate shavings to the sides
~ of the torte.

III Freeze until30 minutes prior to
service.

KIRSCH/CHERRY TORTE FILLING

•

• - 0#

• •

,• •

- •

I I Test the consistency of the syrup. • ,,

, •

• .,

• •

•,

•

II Add the juice of the cherries and boil until thickened.

I I Remove cherry mixture from heat and let cool. I I Assembling the torte.



--------------------------------
"11 pa4Wf{ che-P i4 40l'.1eOne who
• • I'.1U4t have ndurance and the

cOUt"age to dedicate hi4 'ile to one

path. 11 pa4ttf{ che-P I'.1U4t have

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to ttain hi4 01'" het



MADELEINES

MADELEINES

BY KIM PARK

What if Proust had never tasted or writ- INGREDIENTS
ten about madeleines? Would they be as
popular as they are now? Actually, mad- U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
eleines were a favorite treat in high society
Versailles in the early 1700s. They may be Unsalted butter, for molds* As needed 11/2 sticks
baked Iightly for a tender cake or baked to a V2 cup
darker color for a drier, more flavorful cake Unsalted butter 60z 170g V2 cup
with a slightly crisp crust to be dipped in
coffee or tea. Bread flour 40z 113 g 1 tablespoon
% teaspoon
Pastry flour 40z 113 g
5 eggs
Baking powder 0.20z 5g % cup
1 bean
Salt 0 .20z 5g

Whole egg**

Granulated sugar 60z 170g

Vanilla bean

Recipe notes: * Use European-style butter (minimum 82% fat content).
** Eggs should be at room temperature.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE IW:I Use a spatula to place the

D Melt a small amount of butter ~ mixture in a pastry bag fitted
and leave in a cool place to
thicken. with a med ium plain (round) tip.

1:1 Brush madelei ne molds with IrI:t Using medium pressure, pipe II Brush the madeleine molds with butter.
U thickened butter (a). Set aside.
~ the mixture into the prepared
I!I Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C molds (f).
1:1 or gas mark 6).
~ For symmetrical madeleines
~ Meltthe 6 ounces (170 g) of
I.IiJ without the traditional hump,
i i i butter and reserve.
bake directly. For madeleines with a
r.!I Sift together the flours, baking hump, refrigerate the filled pans for
1:1 powder, and salt. Reserve.
1V2 hours prior to baking. Alterna-
n In the bowl of a stand mixer
tively, the batter may be refrigerated
1:1 fitted with the whip attachment, for 11/2 hours and then piped into the
molds.
whip the eggs and sugar until they are
pale yellow, thick, and form a ribbon Ir.!I When ready to bake, preheat
when you lift the whip (b). 1.1:.1 oven to 400°F (200°Cor gas

~ Scrape the vanilla bean and add mark 6) oven and bake until golden
brown, approximately 13 to 15
U scrapings to the mixture. minutes.

1:1 Remove the whip attachment IW!I While they are still warm, tap
1:1 and replace it with the paddle I.I.:J the molds on a solid surface to

attachment. (This prevents incorpo- remove the madeleines (g).
rating excess air, which would affect
the texture of the baked madeleines.) ~ When the madeleines are

I.D cool, dust with confectioners'

sugar (h).

1:1 Continue to mix on low speed,

1:1 adding the sifted flour mixture

gradually (c).

~ Remove one-third of the If you have only one
madeleine pan, reserve the
~ mixture from the bowl and stir unused batter in an airtight
container in the refrigera-
the melted 6 ounces (170 g) of butter tor. After the first round of
into it (d). madeleines has been baked,
cool the pan, wash or wipe
mAdd the butter/batter mixture it clean, brush with butter,
to the batter remaining in the fill, and bake again . Double
bowl and mix lightly (e) . acting baking powder will
remain dormant until the
madeleine batter is placed n Combine the butter mixture with the
in the oven; it will activate
when it is exposed to the g remaining batter.
heat of the oven .

MADELEINES

. . . The batter should form a ribbon when you III Add the sifted flour mixture to the batter. . . Stir the melted butter into one-third
I!Iliftthe whip.
I!I of the batter.

D Pipe the batter in 4-inch (10 em) strips. IIIII!II Tap the molds on a solid surface to release Sprinkle the cooled madeleines with
confectioners' sugar.
1:1 the madeleines while they are still warm.







MARSHMALLOWS

MARSHMALLOWS

BY ANIL ROHIRA

Until you've had a marshmallow made INGREDIENTS U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
the old-fashioned way, you might not fully
understand the cult of marshmallow lovers. Sheet gelatin 9.90z 1V3 sheets
An artisan-made marshmallow is smooth, Ice water, strai ned lib, 90z
light, flavorful, a bit chewy, and creamy. Vanilla bean 1 cup minus 1 tablespoon
They are a study in subtlety and nuance. Water 0.050z
Nothing overwhelms, nothing is over Glucose 60z 2 beans
the top. And yet, they render the eater Granulated sugar 60z
speechless. Salt 1 cup minus 1 tablespoon
Cornstarch
Confectioners'sugar 281 g % cup

708g 3V4 cups

1.5g % teaspoon

170g VB cup

170g 1VB cup

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE !Ii' Spray a second sil icone II Check the temperature of the glucose mixture with
a thermometer.
D Line a half-sheet pan with ~ baking mat with nonstick
a silicone baking mat.
Spray the mat with nonstick cooking spray. Place the
cooking spray. Set aside. sprayed side on the surface of
the marshmallow and use a
a Place the gelatin in the nontapered roll ing pi n to roll the
mass flat and even (fl . Remove
U bowl of a stand mixer the second baking mat.

and cover with the strai ned ice mSet the pan aside and
water. Soak for ten minutes. reserve at room tempera-
ture until firm , at least 3 to 4
1:1 Add the scrapings of the hours. Foroptimum results,
1::1 vanilla beans. leave the pan overnight.

~ Usingthewhipattach- 1m Sift together the corn-
starch and confectioners'
i i i ment, whip the gelatin/ sugar. Sift some of the mixture
onto a flat cutting surface (g).
water/vanilla mixture on low
speed . 11:1 Remove the marsh mal-

a In a heavy-bottomed pot, ~ low from the pan and
place it on the sifted starch/
1:1 cook the water, gl ucose, sugar mixture. Sift more of the
starch/sugar mixture on top of
and sugar to 23SOF (214°C) (a). the marshmallow slab (h).

mThen add the salt. ~ Spray the blade of a large
Slowly pour the syrup
• into the gelatin mixture, I.Ji.i chef's knife with non-
being careful to avoid the whip
and the sides of the bowl (b). stick cooking spray. Continue
wiping and spraying the knife
a After all the syrup has as needed during the cutting
process.
U been added, increase the
rr.!I Trim the edges of the
mixing speed to medium-high. LI:.I marshmallow and cut

r.I Continue whipping until into even squares (i, j).
I:J the mixture is cool , thick,
Ir.:I Toss the cut marsh mal-
and spreadable, approximately
12 to 15 minutes (c) . I.i:.Ilows in the remaining
starch/sugar mixture (k).
1:1 Remove the mixture
1:1 from the bowl and

spread it evenly in the prepared
pan (d, e).

. . Pour the marshmallow mixture onto the

I!I prepared baking pan.

MARSHMALLOWS

II Slowly pour the syrup into the whipped gelatin mixture. I I Note the consistency of the finished marshmallow mixture.

III Spread the marshmallow evenly using an offset spatula. D Using a rolling pin and a silicone baking mat,
roll over the marshmallow until it is flat and even.
(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

. . . Sift confectioners' sugar and cornstarch . . Sift more ofthe confectioners' sugar D Slice the marshmallow into long strips.

1.:1 onto your work surface. I I I mixture on top of the marshmallow.

n Slice again, crosswise into squares. When you pour the sugar
syrup into the mixing bowl ,
avoid getti ng the syrup on
the sides of the bowl or the
whip. If it comes in contact
with those surfaces, it will
remain there-not making it
into the gelatin mixture. The
amount of syrup in the gela-
tin mixture will determine
the sweetness and texture of
the marshmallows.

These marshmallows freeze
well . Wrap in a double
layer of aluminum foil prior
to freezing. Ideally, leave
the slab whole and cut
as needed, returning the
remainder of the slab to the
freezer for future use. Thaw
the marshmallows to room
temperature, then toss in
the starch/sugar mixture.

. . . Toss the marshmallow squares with

W remaining starch/sugar mixture.





MILK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

MILK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

BY EWALD NOTTER

INGREDIENTS Truffles are named for their resemblance to
the mushroomlike delicacy. With care and
U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume respect, they are easy to produce in their
567 g simplest form: a ganache made from cream
Milk chocolate couverature lib, 4 oz 1 cup and chocolate and a coating of tempered
28g chocolate. Without other flavori ngs, such
Heavy cream Va cup as liqueurs, nuts, spices, etc., there is
noth ing to interfere with the pure flavor of
Glucose loz chocolate. Most chocolate manufacturers
are producing high-quality milk chocolate
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting in which the chocolate is not masked or
overwhelmed by the addition of milk and
Milk chocolate couverature, for dipping sugar. The label will indicate the percent-
age of cocoa butter and cacao sol ids. Look
for a percentage ranging from 33 to 38
percent or higher.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE •

PROCEDURE I I Pour the hot cream/glucose mixture over the chopped chocolate.

DChop the lib, 4 oz (567 g) of couvera-
ture and place in a bowl.

I!!:I Place the cream and glucose in a
B heavy-bottomed pot and heat just

to a boi I.

1:1 Pour the cream/glucose mixture over
1:1 the chopped couverature (a).

II Stir smooth with a spatula (b).

I i Cover and cool to room temperature.

n When the ganache is cool and set, use

1:1 a rubber spatula to stir the mixture

until it lightens in texture and color (c).

a1:1 Place the mixture in a pastry bag
fitted with a medium plain (round) tip
(d) and pipe %-inch (l.9 cm) rounds on a
parchment-lined sheet pan (e).

1:1 Refrigerate until firm. When the
1:1 ganache is firm, remove the pan from

the refrigerator.

a Wearing latex or vinyl gloves dusted

1:1 with confectioners' sugar, hand-roll

the piped ganache into small spheres (f).

IE Return the spheres to the pan and
return the pan to the refrigerator.

I I Place ganache in a pastry bag.

MILK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

• -.. ... ..

• •

II Stir smooth with a spatula. • •• •

I I Stir the ganache until it lightens in texture and color.

• •,

• D Hand-roll the ganache into spheres.

••

III Pipe rounds of ganache onto a parchment-lined sheet pan.

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE III Coat the spheres with tempered couverature.
III Truffles after the couverature has set.
PROCEDURE (continued)

mTemper more couverature (see page
27 for instructions on tempering
chocolate).

IE Remove the truffles from the
refrigerator.

IW:I Using gloved hands, spread a small
I.I:J amount of tempered couverature on

your palms.

~ Roll the spheres gently to coat

I.IiJ evenly (g).

n : I Return the truffles to the sheet pan

1.1:.1 and leave at room temperature to let

the couverature set.

19!1 Using a dipping fork , dip the truffles

11:.1 in the remaining tempered milk

couverature.

II:'J Return the truffles to the sheet pan
I D and allow the couverature to set (h).

I'I':t If desired, the truffles may be rolled

~ across a wire screen after dipping for

a spiked appearance. While the couverature
is soft, place the truffles on a cool ing screen
or grid. Use the tip of dipping fork or a par-
ing knife to roll the truffle across the grid to
form the spikes.

Ganache is an emulsion
of cream and chocolate or
couverature. It is often used
as a filling, such as in these
truffles, or in cakes, tortes,
and pastries. It can be used
as an icing or a poured glaze
for cakes and pastries as
well. Incorporating glucose
slows or prevents moisture
loss and allows the ganache
to keep its shine when used
as a glaze.