The Pastry Chef's Apprentice-OCR

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

NOUGAT

BY LAUREN V. HAAS

Variations of nougat are made in European INCLUSIONS
communities as a means to celebrate and
preserve the flavors of spring and summer. U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
This recipe uses Italian meringue to l30g 1 cup
provide structure, consistency, and shelf Dried blueberries 4 .6 0 z 170g
life to a chewy, creamy celebration of local 85g 1% cups
ingredients Pistachios 60z 50g % cup
Pinch lj2 cup
Candied violet petals 30z Pinch

Freeze-d ried strawberries, chopped 1.70z

Salt Pinch

INGREDIENTS

U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume

Dried egg white 0.4 oz 109 1 tablespoon

Granulated sugar 14.4 oz 410g l % cups

Fresh egg white 1113 egg wh ites

Honey 1 cup

Glucose syrup 1J2 cup

Water 6 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons

Vanilla bean 1 bean 1 bean 1 bean

Cocoa butter, melted l.80z 50g

Rose water 2 teaspoons

Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Tempered couverture for dipping (optional, page 27)

PROCEDURE

D Prepare the inclusions: Gently stir together the
inclusions in a heatproof bowl and place in a warm
oven (a) . The inclusions should remain warm so they
can be evenly distributed throughout the nougat during
kneading.

II!t Prepare the nougat base: Blend the dried egg
U white with 1 ounce (30 g or 2 tablespoons) of the

sugar and combine with the fresh egg whites in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment.

1:1 Place the honey in a heavy-bottomed pot and heat
1:1 to 248°F (l20°C). When the temperature of the

honey reaches 225°F (l08°C), begin whipping the egg
whites on medium speed .

~ When the honey reaches 248°F (l20°C), pour it

~ slowly into the egg whites (b), continuing to whip.

r.I Meanwhile, combine the remaining sugar, glucose,
1:1 water, and vanilla bean scrapings in a separate

heavy-bottomed pot and heat to 311 °F (155°C).

I'!I Add the rose water to the sugar syrup and pour
I:J slowly into the egg whites as you continue to whip,

taking care to avoid getting syrup on the whip or on the
sides of the bowl.

~ Increase the mixing speed to high , and whip for

a 3 minutes.

I':t Add the melted cocoa butter and blend thoroughly
1:1 (c). Warm the exterior of the mixing bowl with a

kitchen torch, if necessary, to prevent any lumping of
the cocoa butter (d).

r:t Dust a flat work surface with confectioners' sugar.

1:1 Remove the nougat from the mixing bowl, placing

it on the sugared work surface, and gently add the
warmed inclusions (e).

!Wi' Fold and knead the mass until the inclusions are

Is:.. well distributed (f).

mPlace the nougat between two nonstick baking
mats. With a roll ing pi n, roll the nougat into a
9 x 12-inch (23 x 30 cm) rectangle (g).

IW:t Let the nougat cool at room temperature. When

~ cool, cut into desired shapes (h).

11:1 The cut pieces may be dipped in tempered
l1.l:I couverture (i).

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

I I Combine the inclusions prior to warming. II Add the honey to whipped egg whites.

.- ..

I I Add the warmed inclusions. ••
•

o Fold in the inclusions.

NOUGAT

II Add the melted cocoa butter. I I The finished nougat mixture.

I I Roll the nougat between nonstick mats. III Cut the nougat. I I Optional: Dip the nougat into the tem-
pered chocolate.











VANILLA BEAN MACARONS WITH MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

VANILLA BEAN MACARONS WITH
MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

BY WILLIAM LEAMAN

Macarons have become the darling of pas- INGREDIENTS U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
try aficionados-and for good reason. The 10.6oz 300g 3 cups
chewy shells are an excellent vehicle for Almond flour 300g minus 1 tablespoon
carryi ng the flavors and textures of sweet
and savory fillings. With a little practice , Confectioners'sugar 10.6oz 300g + 1 teaspoon
they are qu ite simple to produce. This is 21/2 cups + 1 tablespoon
one of the few pastries that is made in a Vanilla bean
variety of colors. Displays of different Egg white + % teaspoon
colored macarons brighten any pastry Granulated sugar
presentation. Water 3 beans
Chocolate ganache (see page 145) 7 egg wh ites
1O.6oz
l lh cup
lh cup + 1 tablespoon

1 recipe

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PROCEDURE I'!I Continue folding until the I I Sift the almond flour and confectioners' sugar.
I:J mixture is homogenous,
DCombine the almond
flour and confectioners' soft, shiny, and flows evenly off
sugar. Sift together (a). Add the the spatula (f).
scrapings of the vanilla beans.
(Alternatively, for a smoother 1:1 Using a spatula, deposit
macaroon, you may grind the
almond flour, confectioners' 1:.1 the batter ina pastry bag
sugar, and vanilla bean scrap-
ings ina food processor fitted fitted with a medium plain
with the blade attachment and (round) tip. Twist the open end
then sift.) of the bag tightly to seal.

1':1 Mix three egg whites with ~ Using even, med ium-
U the sifted flour mixture to
I.i!.t firm pressure, pipe
form a smooth paste.
2-inch (5 cm) rounds onto
1:1 Place the remaining three silicone baking mats (g).
1::1 egg whites in the bowl of a
mSet aside at room tem-
stand mixer fitted with the whip perature until the surface
attachment. Begin whipping dries, approximately 30 to 60
slowly. The egg white should be minutes
frothy at this stage.
~ Preheat oven to 200°F
~ Meanwhile, place the
~ (93°C or just below gas
Ii.I granulated sugar and water
mark \1,» .
in a heavy-bottomed pot and
cook to a temperature of 246°F ~ Bake approximately 11
(119°C), brushing the sides of ~ to 12 minutes. The sur-
the pot with a wet brush to pre- face of the macarons should be
vent sugar crystallization (c). firm and dry, and the macarons
will have "feet" (h).

r.!I Continue whipping the egg ~ Cool completely before

1:1 white on low speed while I.Jii removing from the bak-

slowly adding the cooked syrup, ing mats.
being careful to avoid getting
syrup on the sides of the bowl 11:11 nvert half of the maca-
and the whip (d) .
1.1:.1 rons.

I'!I After all of the syrup II'!I Make a slight depression
1:1 has been incorporated,
~ in the center of the invert-
increase the mixing speed to ed macarons with your thumb to
medium high and whip until allow for more filling (i).
the sides of the bowl are cool
to the touch. The meringue ~ Pipe the softened milk
will be glossy, firm, and form
a medium peak. l D chocolate ganache onto

a Fold one-th ird of the me- the inverted macarons (j). The

a ringue into the flour/sugar ganache should be soft enough

paste. Incorporate thorough Iy. to spread to, but not over, the
Fold in another third of the
meringue and incorporate thor- edge .
oughly. Fold in the final third of
the meringue (e). IW:t Place the remaining I I Slowly pour the syrup into the whipped egg whites.

~ macarons on top of the
ganache and gently press to
adhere (k).

VANILLA BEAN MACARONS WITH MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

II Note the consistency of the batter after adding the egg white. B Brush down the sides of the pot with a wet pastry brush whi Ie
IiiI cooking the sugar syrup.

III Fold one-third of the meringue into the flour/sugar paste. D Note the consistency of the final batter.

(continued)

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

. . . Pipe 2-inch (5 cm) rounds III The baked macarons. D Use your thumb to make an indentation in
half of the macarons.
1.:1 onto baking mats.
Any flavor may be used in
the macarons, and fre-
quently, coloring is added to
suggest the flavor. The use
of coloring should be taste-
ful and sensible. The fillings
may be varied to include
additions to the ganache
recipe, different ganaches,
or buttercream.

Allowing the surface of the
macarons to dry after pip-
ing them is a critical step.
The mixture dries slightly,
helping to retain the shape
and create the "feet" on the
bottom edge.

n Pipe ganache into the indentations. . . . Place the tops on the macarons
Wand press to adhere.







THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

DACQUOISE AU CHOCOLAT

BYLAURENTBRANLARD

Oacquoise au chaco/at is a study in INGREDIENTS
contrasts. It has a simple, understated
appearance: one disc, dusted with pow- U.S. Imperial Weight Metric Weight Volume
dered sugar, floating on a layer of creamy 80g
chocolate filling above a second disc. A Almond flour 2.8oz 80g 3 egg whites
crisp texture turns chewy as it melds with
the smooth chocolate. Large versions are Confectioners' sugar 2.8oz 30g 1 recipe
sliced in wedges, likeacakeortart.lndi- 1 recipe
vidual units may be picked up by hand. Egg white 1 recipe

Granulated sugar 1.loz

Chocolate Mousse (see page 89)

Chocolate Ganache (see page 145)

Creme Chantilly (see page 17)

PROCEDURE (see photos, pages 170-171)

D Preheat oven to 390°F (199°Cor gas IrIi' Bake until the discs are golden and
mark 6).
1.1:.1 the edges are firm, approximately 15

I ! t Draw two 8-inch (20 cm) circles on a minutes. Finish baking with the oven door
U sheet of baki ng parch ment. Invert the slightly open for 1 or 2 minutes to dry out
the discs. (The discs should be quite dry

parchment and place on a flat sheet pan. because they will contain a moist filling.)

1:1 Sift together the almond flour and mLet cool, then remove the discs from
1:1 confectioners' sugar (a) . Reserve. the baking pan and trim the edges

~ In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with with a paring knife if they are too dark and/
or dry.
Ii.I the whip attachment, whip the egg
IW:t Place one of the discs on a serving
whites on medium speed.
II.1':II tray and pipe chocolate mousse
r.!I When the egg white is frothy and
(page 89) or whipped milk chocolate
a=.II foamy, add the sugar slowly while ganache (page 145) around the edge in a

continuing to mix on medium speed. decorative pattern (e). Pipe creme Chantilly

I'!I Whip to a soft peak. The meringue or chocolate mousse into the center (f).
i:I should be glossy and firm.
IrI:I Place a disc on top of the filling
a Fold in the sifted flour-sugar mixture II.I::J (g) and dust with confectioners'

U (b). Fold quickly and efficiently to sugar (h).

prevent deflating the foam (c). ~ Decorate with a rosette of the

r.t Using a spatula, place the mixture in a I.Ii.I reserved fill ing. Garnish as desired

1:1 pastry bag fitted with a medium plain (i).

(round) tip. 1m Store and serve at room tempera-

1:1 On the inverted parchment in the ture. Th is pastry is best served the day it is
made .
1:1 sheet pan , pipe the batter to fill in

the drawn circles, beginning on the outside

edge (d).

Why use granulated and
confectioners' sugars in the
same product? Granulated
sugar helps set the protein
matrix in the meringue that
will provide structure in the
final product. Confectioners'
sugar is 3 percent corn-
starch, which acts to dry and
toughen, as well as provide
structure.

Dacquoise discs may be
piped and frozen for up to
five weeks. Thaw, un-
wrapped, at room tempera-
ture. Fill as directed above.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

I I Sift the almond flour and confectioners' sugar. II Fold the flour-sugar mixture into the meringue.

..

I I 0Pipe chocolate mousse or whipped ganache around the baked edge. Fill in the center with creme Chantilly or chocolate mousse.

II Note the consistency of the finished batter. I I Pipe circles of batter onto prepared parchment.

.. -• .- ,-
-.
mPlace the second disc on top of the filling. .
(-

I I Sift confectioners' sugar over the top of I I Pipe a rosette of reserved filling in
the dacquoise. the center.

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

RESOURCES

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT EDUCATION The Notter School, Orlando, Florida
Professional programs for professionals
ONLINE SOURCES FOR INGREDIENTS SCHOOLS OFFERING CONCENTRATED and serious home bakers overseen by world
AND SMALL WARES COURSES FOR SERIOUS PASTRY champion Ewald Notter
COOKS www.notterschool.com
www.bakedeco.com
Quality supplies, tools, and equipment At-Sunrice Global Chef Academy, Richemont Fachshule,
Singapore Lucerne, Switzerland
www.bridgekitchenware.com Professional training and weekend classes Professional and advanced training
A wide variety of cookware and accessories for enthusiasts programs
www.at-sunrice.com http://richemont.zynex.ch/en/05_agb/
www.chefrubber.com content. htm
Colorants, transfer sheets, tools, and CAST Alimenti, La Scuola Cucina,
equipment Brescia, Italy San Francisco Baking Institute,
Italian culinary school for professionals and So. San Francisco, California
www.chefsresource.com serious cooks Professional and weekend baking programs
Tools, gadgets, cookware, and small www.castalimenti.it www.sfbi.com
appliances
The French Pastry School, Chicago, Illinois Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School,
www.fantes.com World-class pastry chef instructors for Brunswick, VIC, Australia
Dependable source for cooks' wares since professional and dedicated home cooks Internationally trained award-winning chefs
www.frenchpastryschool.com give instruction in making modern and
1906 exquisite chocolates and pastries
International Baking Academy, www.savourschool.com.au
www.jbprince.com Weinheim, Germany
Baking mats, bags, pastry cutters, tools, German Bread and Pastry Program PERIODICALS
and more www.akademie-weinheim.de/i nternational-
academy. htm I cafe-sweets
www.le-sanctuaire.com Japanese pastry magazine
Herbs, spices, books, and small electrics Johnson & Wales University, Providence, www.amazon.co.Jp
Rhode Island; Denver, Colorado; Miami,
www.oldwillknotscales.com Florida; Charlotte, North Carolina Dessert Professional
Scales for every professional Associates and Bachelor's Degrees www.dessertprofessional.com
available, continuing education, and
www.pastrychef.com Chef's Choice classes for weekend warriors Le Journal du Patissier
Professional-grade tools and high-quality www.jwu.edu www.journaldupatissier.fr
ingredients
The King Arthur Flour Education, Pastry and Baking North America; Pastry
www.pastryitems.com Norwich, Vermont and Baking Asia Pacific
Pastry cutters, baking mats, baking sheets, An ever expanding and rotating selection of www.pastryna.com
scales, and appliances classes for baking aficionados
www.kingarthurflour.com/baki ngl Paticceria Internazionale
LITERATURE www.pasticceriainternazionale.it
The Lenotre Culinary and Pastry School,
www.chipsbooks.com Plaisir, France So Good ...
Professional training and advanced classes www.sogoodmagazine.com
www.jessicasbiscuit.com www.lenotre.fr/en/ecolesJenotre.php

www.kitchenartsandletters.com

www.quarrybooks.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Kanjiro Mochizuki Ewald Notter
Japan Switzerland
www.notterschool.com
Frederic Deshayes
France Lauren V. Haas
USA
Iginio Massari
Italy William Leaman
www.iginio-massari.com/en USA
www.bakerynouveau.com
Sebastien Rouxel
France Laurent Branlard
France
En-Ming Hsu www.sheratonchicago.com / Ib/pdfs/ lau-
USA renCbranlard_bio. pdf

Franz Ziegler
Switzerland
www.franzziegler.ch

Thaddeus DuBois
USA

Kirsten Tibballs
Australia
www.savourschool .com.au

Robert Ellinger
USA

Jordi Puigvert Colomer
Spain
www.sweetngo.com/skin/portal.aspx

Thomas Haas
Germany
www.thomashaas.com

Kim Park
(Kim, Deok-Kyu)
South Korea

Anil Rohira
India

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

PHOTOGRAPHER CREDITS

Courtesy of Bakery Nouveau, 7 (bottom); 158
Kathrin Best, 122; 124
Courtesy of Laurent Branlard, 166; 167
Courtesy of Jordi Puigvert Colomer, 110; 112
Thomas J. Delle Donne, 137
Courtesy of Frederic Deshayes, 36; 39
Courtesy of Thaddeus DuBois, 84; 87
© Craig Ellenwood / Alamy, 31
© Brenton Ho, 62; 63; 64
Amos Morgan, 6; 7 (top)
Courtesy of Ewald Notter, 144
Gale Reeves, 157; 159
Courtesy of Sebastien Rouxel, 53; 55
Courtesy of Kirsten Tibballs, 92; 94; 95
John Uher Inc., 28; 45,100; 102; 131
Courtesy of Franz Ziegler, 73; 74; 75

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Nathan Mitchell Stamm is an associate
instructor in the International Baking and
Pastry Institute within the College of Culi-
nary Arts at Johnson & Wales, Providence,
Rhode Island. His area of specialization is
artisan baking. He studied at Dunwoody
Technical College in Minneapolis; the
French Pastry School in Chicago; the San
Francisco Baking Institute in San Francis-
co; and L'ecole Lenotre in Plasir, France.

In 2006, he won the silver medal and was
recognized for best workmanship at the
National Bread and Pastry Championship.
In 2008, he won the award for artistic
design at the National Bread and Pastry
Championship.

His work has been featured in Dessert
Professional, Modern Baking, Rhode Island
Monthly, Pastry's Best, and Pastry and Bak-
ing North America. He is a consultant for
bakeries and manufacturers as well.

Favorite color: bread
Ultimate goal: to be a Southern
gentleman-it's a work in progress

THE PASTRY CHEF'S APPRENTICE

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

To all the previous generations who To Didier Rosada, Philippe LeCorre, Matt
combined flour, butter, sugar, eggs, salt, MacDonald , and Kent Trebilcox: Thank you
and vanilla and transformed them into for teaching me thatthere is food in life
foods that give pleasure, joy, and histori- and life in food .
cal context, I thank you for passing your
knowledge to future generations. To the students who donated their time,
working selflessly behind the scenes,
I offer my thanks and appreciation to thank you for your patience, your efforts,
the faculty, administration, and staff of and for inspiring me: Jesse McDonald ,
Johnson & Wales University. Thank you Christine Sylvester, Melissa Richards,
to Martha Crawford who hired me and Lauren Fedick, Alyssa Ringler, Lindsay
encouraged me. Thank you to my baking Jacob, Kathleen Van Sicklin, and Allison
brothers Ciri I Hitz and Richard Miscovich Quinlan .
for leading by example and bringing me
along for the ride. A special thank-you to pastry chef
Tim Brown for assisting with the pastry
The pastry chefs who partic ipated in th is production.
book reinforced my deep beliefs in the bak-
ing and pastry profession. Their contribu- Thank you to Biagio Settepani and
tions to the profession are well document- Ok-Kyung Choo for translating.
ed, but what is often overlooked is their
warmth and generosity. They opened up To the amazing people at Quayside Pub-
their shops and their Iives for th is project so lishing Group, especially Rochelle Bour-
others can learn and grow. With travel and gault and Betsy Gammons, thank you for
production demands greater than most of selecting me for this project and for kicking
us can imagine, they met every deadline. me in the pants when I needed it. I see
This book would not exist without them. I that your dedication and professional ism is
salute you all; I will always be grateful. equal to that of the pastry chefs who were
chosen for th is project. Thank you to Julia
To my family, the Speigels of Chicago, Maranan for her seamless editing.
Illinois, the Stamms of Austin , Texas, and
Aunt Miriam, thank you for your unwaver- Kylee Hitz's photography of the process
ing support . To the families who have ad- and the finished products transcend the
opted me throughout my baking and pastry products themselves. Thank you for your
travels, the Johnsons of Littleton, Colorado, vision and your patience. Your photographs
and Gillettes of Hailey, Idaho, thank you give life to the book.
for opening your homes and hearts to me.
To the Hitz family of Rehoboth , Massachu- Thanking everyone who has shown me
setts, thank you for showing me the way kindness, generosity, second, and third
and for mentoring me- with the book and chances over the years would require a
in life. separate book. I know that you know my
sincere appreciation. Thank you everyone.

And a final thank you to the inventor of
expandable waistline pants.