The Art of Manipulating Fabric

Contents

FORCNORD clupr.r r0 QuLrrN. rot
Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e
PREhcr . . .......... .. .. .rri

CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoM

T H r sB o o ( . . . . . lfi

c h a p r c rl G ^ l [ R r N c . . . 3 ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt
. opposileEds.cRrhfti'g

Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9

slPPrE\rENr RYFuLNrss urNc DARrs. .. .. ..267

MiKr_G R!.tsl|l M'xEp M^--'rur ^IDN5
. cdh&ld shsh Edged]lu t. -coMBrr.'AnoNs
. ciLh(d DoubleEdscdRulll.

M^(Nc FLorN.Es 67 APP!NDIX
-MrKNc GoDcrs. .. .. .. 31
chiprrg-{orDrNc .. ..la7

. Hard,s$! Cord.dQundrg
. udrines.{n codtd auirdng

I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4

Controlled
Crushing

A R T $ f * . ir

f Gathenng

c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l. GATHERTNG
luomdiccnh.nng .. .. 5
BAsrcs

G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs

sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6

rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure,

itrlomad!. rnd onckind oI ct s!.
gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d

F r t L n g . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 *ine irc sPelhxyqriarions d'ar

Run.d Eds. Thud bscdh,ndrnd nachine
edhedDsinvorvs rwopioaduits:
garhd'ng (1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrd
8alhdins.. ... . .... ll cdg.drrhcfihn. thinrlr.sm

snhdns.. .. allo$lDei(2) puljng d! lnEloo*

Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dh 'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh.
.M orLhcnikhiDg winr ont hand
Msrcs. indn.r.dbyr 8ny band $r,ilc unn8 ,heo,ns hrndro push
therabn.nb,bdf,long rh€hdly
Lo$rd uDd@ad dr i.t.vant hdd rlread Th. spesnyoi d.nsnt
of ,r. eDi.rordsc&d by r
gdnubg.h.ombharioDqi$

{hih G 'hc nnoumandd$in or
li.Iold! libcckdtronrhrnirdrs.
LmB nrd$ '13h'\ salnq€d

nad 8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds onnn,
n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dud
n vuhdrblcrobicakundqh
sion,u* doubl.dor exh-shrs
rhrad i! th€rcdt. ltrchdr ln(
nd snrh rlh asood-siz.dtTor Rr

Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh.up
dnb dc 'hrcadofr si,,shbw ol
$m runningnnch6 (Fis.l l)

I

tr

\i

lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f
, ,! r! ,![ L]fhrru! ,ru! rr! qhnL

itT'.

arowances: ta) Nd.b ,D s#r
atawanees n ad2rce tb) htq pl

ih.rarLh! f) rrhod

r f r L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) ll u r r t r ! uri{& birnrrrr (34'n
LN.trIn !\rs) i'rl nx &! ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd |n rrbn.

lLr o{dtr rt Tr,!rurLcs! {trl1

,1,.,;. F

i 0rI0!!$B

ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch

Sr4Bruzr\6 (;4r Hrfifi)

L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu

nrs, tn rhrbhirtrs I Lrl j. ui!

wh l2) eds$rbhhe aDd tb) bhd.

Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3 !" iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bLn ft!o !I
bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD ori n{ir lsrr rtdfLg L l+j

r/ouadihtr n6 luqDtr.t !r

mlhurr ba[r ,fr3 I rr)

rr 0,i ioir iiqr5btsh/@d
() Mr T thedn.h lrchrnq rtdder

r.iddrr r\lrtrN( uLtr' 1r){\ la) sthd3tibh an ,cdseqalreted dr
rn.Is u ijj !{ilD. (L] dl:) nachh,Ftrching tb)FrtE ar edse

Flutin8is a hand.a0pliqu.r!ch. Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tata T[. rurLd.ng. isr deordr,
eatturedswa€ lb) ||hichh sbyed hlt finishto.rhesarhftdldgr
groovgheNen naDdirufol,ls.
A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe $hc! r{ {n.hh8 Lob. g h*d
Lh.rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quily srhere,l ed!e.s$n ro rhesdhred
k.d runninsnirdrs lthe lar8{ i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr labnr! edgerhe!.ip or tubr!

'nur.) D6ribuL.'h. ga'hds h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse bre*s 'nLda ntu rftd sdlo bg
ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq. TonRlnLi:r( L)\!rh rlreldBcor ri
rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds ol hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs .xrnsion dipn€d berqrh 'he CIh
dr lrbn. Ln$. n&dlc lidbrc tub
bhs n threushrh. ourlheonrhe g .ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them
rduodn'dnDing(hrn{dl.$in
appliqr or bpillh ndt h tht
ueGee(b)in Fis r-ra) Rlmove
'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h. ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcLlopnrdri,*
(r) s€! a rar ofhpe b Lhcbkk.r
Aninnsiblciar nan nndclin 'lE srhenrs 5drch6 lhdndng rh.
i,3 rhl .onroG8rdEi,8 Leforir srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl
G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon.
'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML hp€, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {-
*r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc hsnnchB h ftri' (F1gI 17).
lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor
sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika

dreqhil! fqinsbro z curour
rndr I rourddioni4 1Fjsr..rt)
w[or ft ta]c oLlibnc addcdbr,
Penanedn,y is uodEnrbhu. $ ,

ru'ros 'hich canberomNay

Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitiv FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe:
i@a saMd edse (b)Gathercd (a)wth tu .xtensiarstippeduhder
edqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aa n*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinq
tlabahet ttsidzedaubtrcfhtusshbeatastetalcs)htiunhthiras srbh$. (b)wk a b@ han'tsewnb
|hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6
(c)wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the

rh an d rrhdnh; hfk

hrir rorr!snbocd.rndau.r\&r 'I

F9 t 1e ta)Ftnwhe ap'ry soath.
e|ed 2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rad

]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|

SNGLE-EDGE "aa'nenrs Me'nods"o! pagel).

GATHFRlNG

t. s.sumbbilnn.rfefte63alttlhledd.dnBs(firc.hreni'!so

PRocrDrrxEs Norls & YARrArroNs rig,4'sine]€€dga7ah.rngBd.
ahB (a)Fatu re@se tun adta-
r. Drttdc howmuth fuuns llr rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edge
&bdc brlo$ fte sarhsededse galhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.r lb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDed
shNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq. o! 'ne {cigh'gdn of worn f.cb at an4et . lc) bstatutaNhel;@(dt)hs*tddi6'h,
n.i skbildc hodonaly end edsesbhirat
n€nr Ior tncEa'neEdedgero
6rihdc fteleigrhorung{h nnish(' Al'. \rirchinsondie srbili:ins anBishr. sain<cd
rh. dsird rullDcsin thesrh- edseb dip in a.uNe nrcth6
eFd rabn.,huhlply fi. hE r .ft$gfh G piddnd ovd fl.l {old5@' orthe tro n3rdgc,norc
f*urchrnl bl rhcxnounr soa lhc d.pd ol |hccurc inse6.
indr cd in d. Iolloving cha : ins on Ac lcncd'gnf br€u$ ln. $, unl€$O) rhehbri. isl.ng|hy
Iolls rcl€6.d rrcmcrcss8Ei!sarh.
dredih6s - 0ai@!r i1+no'o lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8,
Asft. difierencebdweendre Fiog}2agnqedh-n)''r1ai or (2) thesitl.ning silhoudteoI
lcnstf,dl r fibfu gd&rl to Ih€nm'tn3€dge15@dd{Edb
n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr fol& Ibn lcnerhsnbg,ti.rbg.' .deln& G< G) tnFtg l 20).
lBrsd orrh. salneftd44r hser
l.Dsrhfor rh. ursdrrcd Lbric, Drup.Asinq,-.d* Eathrnnz meanne , !s rh. slhouck oI
.nd cur$e hhnc.rr nec.$ary .xrendsb rs adFced.dg6 of, rhe flo hg edgeasrheEi€a
pi.rt rh.fibi. ror.hrde thr lqdmd pr.. orrib.. Aslie!trIr,
tt. n16.d loldsdnp. tlMid dr 1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcd
Divile rhealse 6 h€8*hqed cmd. and'l]. no.dns €d8e.sith- to rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s in
andm,ik lh. divr0B bctwen
nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrndsto aflottlgldg€ha$tngf@Eoi'
. poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0).
wh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s
anglcdghrr or frdd lhin rhcods {nighr. on-gnin,nortinscd8c
in,l rngleaheBrh. .urc of $c virh rhcd*iEd fullis b,ngtnS
,lEprnsand$c lm$h ol dc poinr.
tdmourtd gdhenngtds. dc trb-
Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtn n. needsto becut fmn apruern
enig, rhegrneFd edgrkea r6m O) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n'
lh. staighr andho*onel whnr
rchinin3, noadq alse rh* t)pl6 shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabricis ro
nrch (2) sbsh a@P)orinatpi.
dc. my bc*bilL.d b diht trp un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.t
or dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfr rion thr fordssin hmg (l) Trp.
bilitytocuNeo!anglew]lena
sarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed

al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebi-
Ittig d*p.n and $vell, anl the sil-
houdte or tht notung .dge fthrs

G.c(b)h FB l-20).s'EEh'mins
'h. nd'ins drgeby6Eiqs

rhc {op5 b rndhs nic( oLpip.i
rDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rherr
rn ' :dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs-
:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc.
,+) conn.ditrgdc s.oaErd nnlI

q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dc
hbn. Lobc g{htrtd v idionl

'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih€ sithcred
.dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aE
rlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh

FonPPlicanons so r.,€. ,rrat

rn ts inp tutir, i.d!c rhe hller

$lc sqle Io! prEn drathg pur

not o! llt $rcd doNDsa&q-
DsFnmmdapply'hd.md'

sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r Fs 1e2 la)cath€inertud byhe
do6tr har a nortnecdgrrhe dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa
drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c dnt@red adoa:la) ared d tu appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal
srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl anddrs and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a
rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich (a)s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 Nhnh
5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni ered@. rubetuyedoE;, isit
patln (c)a'*tirc @titu tEtd b
ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]€d

'h. sids b.gin ro ddg thener.d
.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch
c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr

naledjr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik.

.u'otrl'narouiddiont.hr oppsft FDlln6 muldplirsfrlhs(h Frs t23 aFt tMhebtbph, utytnseast\ssteftd@4
.ds. rjghdygrhrftdd. o*s rtr st@'hg
rddrron 10abuirdupot ri.ft/
RJkr rromr.€ndsl poim-prc. dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8bmus rtr
lid€d rhr vd,h of In€d). cquL ungdhered.d3. ol oneds n,bi-
,bEEdiusot rhcdrtul,. curour.
Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirs ria thc sathqcd.d8cof d. idr
sunonndtdhy satneF:Mon l}rn 'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh.
'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui nrip *l is scm ro rheuDsrhned

cdg. ornnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.
*wn rdftc ung{hercdeds.otfti
!l ?ndsoon Ekh rifl inc(6s

rhclensd of ft salhdcdcdsefor
lLcn.x' irt (FE.l 2r).lr lhr

lishhs orLhcgrhFins is also
irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu
Dcaeir iro*s crfus$nrl}

qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.

e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren A
lb) .|ashed br hised at the @o
sEedqebrredadar|dded
e'par$d edsere dtawn (c)Paten
.edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh



dI

i

i

*

Opposrrp-Enct

GATHERING

madesna trwhen (6hed omo

'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*

PRocEDURES

ro g c 'lr oppdrirted8s oI a
hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploe-
dtrftsd.slnb€dIol.shglt.Jg.

NorEs €r VARTATToN5

dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan
borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\
'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal

lordslan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc

pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz
riondfrhe {u I rd tokLrrh{ ar
l$ddld bd!.en rhesdhd.d
Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl

whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs Ii6 dr Idklshk ! dnsorat retx Fig127,[email protected]@galhe,ia
rbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir)
dlnpd foldsin b.N{n !&q ri:lng,hcL€ft.dgb. \ br{ids 'h. ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s
.lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi.. gadrufs n(ches ro: nar pdl lhe Drsdtrenngasgm{lronon€sid.
.ds. gartrri{ rh(ErE$d lotds rrshredg. down$2rdfo(rtu11f or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns
beIoEbAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro .trrvd.Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo.
tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr sir€rishrly(G{ ourid. cuN), aM
N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih. oi.h r|r dgr r, r suid.line sbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf
licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r. 'fulNldonlh nq (83 r.,7)

Fq Pufedowstu 4e e!a9ng.
lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln.
trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as
,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcadrds*
of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or
dnPing. rh. rords,bsr wvrld

brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd
psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or

purld .Jrd so\* Nort [email protected]
a5rhenry btunes $rallc !nhk.

&!FnTpos {u.suLherins.
p''Ilrdopr$iL.eds.garh|rnson b.

Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand.

edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe
ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he
ohe|andsla|d|aadanob'

Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r
ii3, c cn& of a fabricrnp *e

i.sid. cdg. nccdsvay rghr garh,

4hson raryenitchs (th.l,qe

tht nn.ha, 'he sEall€rthc (nt,1

op.nins)Th. oppolne.dgt-rh.

outide of rhectclFis l,gh y

$ , sed rhe sa tahnc4c,dnqrhipe.ertl-rlibk..
m nipulft.dr nd

6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol
s:rhsine on th. oubideedse.
srh hrv€dep fords,.ollkEd
1rcurd a cminr axis,lhd dimh
Lh a lrn ndDre1owaidrhe
outr edsc(rjs 1 29).ro sathq
'hr ouErcdsc,$c srip nur b.
ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or

.dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i, Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd
.dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns.
rn.. Gr.lnleErce =dh,ndq x noD,dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhs
I r4)as$c hrgd n.aslrem.nr *rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b
*h€n srimarjDgrh. r.4'h leed€d tor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins. , paddedbdrd iI n*ded srsn
b g{hcr rheourt! cdg. a$ip a! wnh ,n ion herdabov.th€gnhc-
aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pecoveEd ins allowb .odlandd4 brfoc
dEuL,rourrinwt ir g,,hs rLr
wtrh rold5thar -os Ircn I ds{ly
'hzn'h. idi$ oI 'heinEndedcir gdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttl
QbrourLinr. qho SdhdEdo! edse(Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r€
oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh€
lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcd

viln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edgero
.d8e(ris I rr), nr.d P€nms
sl'sh acopyot Ge elcd shlpc
$B'stu a.b$ Ircn edgerocdgein
rh. diftcrion or ,hefordsr'PErd
'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoI
p{pci to .nrr3e rheedgs tor $rh

ns outtincrharfib h d. 3prt6
Addn,r alloMncs afti dnfting

= ilrt

'l

fi**
,.:."---"-.
\ \,-:
s.\1";;7

/:.

]%._: : il:

r:..-,d..-*1

1,r'.;$$

i

ALL-SIDES 2, Gahg a|lJou'\il th. cdg!orfab. l,rfi hsd asubltl or hxnil.
GATHERINc nclur lDmrh€sarknngF\({!, sidsslhfhs Lo,n drct.s
mdlq fte gathendlctrgrlr
PRocEDr,rRrs ber!(n turh6 oriid6 Lothe hui.h.d srhrE onlourdinonfalr
Itn$h betr\en ftLRrdiokha q
r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6$ih sinph. oul rhebundlehdbn. rbor. ,h.
N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti suy lur or oudhedfrerndrerF $'heE b Dak€, purlrrd lools
o all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn soDrdn4hk. r qud,r rodnoot
Fn byxn{Lualanou{ nl smlr (ndd ro crdNins (Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l)
bhadrtrl*ot rumbcdixr l l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.lc'rtu
h.rgh,for Lhcirnftd rulncs 3. shbiltt thc8a'hocdedgs ,nd
rnd.nlirgrby'n rFourr G{ 5haP.c.hoonnag Nrhdd rhd WJ)
Fis r r2).Dividtrh. .(rved srns ft i equn.nd6 or Lhr
ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark iPpliqdonGcfero.subnliv 9e
Diudelons *Dishr cds.srh Gnh.nd nn.hhs onPage6)
Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd
NorEs & VARrafioNs

rhc nrndridfdrall sid6 sdh
dLngis , {une 8arrr.rtd10I
snxll.rsquaEa, nolrlsdhd.d rd
r smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grheredto

r h * . o r , N i r h , n €c d s 6 n d t r : c J

rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$
trpbenE€nrrr .&cs a prn df rhr
appsldfansids srheri|s An
:ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds

Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhd Thcrun.d rtrrrdds lhePuf
roilsid6 sdhcing,uiriins nec corcpr a*epturrn c.nr hc
dh and'ln*d ro.orrrp* rhEpulq pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of
ummd) foldsd€Libcurl!Fu. rabr!.nn.h oi rbeourtiiEotrht
Dwi,u .dnv&s rhebaloorins hb p{fl dnk and8i,her findins rh3
ic besftn rh. {,b nedcdss
inb i mac.riL.rc1ildlridEsand grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcardrt(
Pur roI louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)
(rds ro.Furto$rry onlx8c9)

b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb
ebp ftu nusltered jnctid.s

I

sh s heringd6dib6 .h€
rvc6. sd€ oI puflsdh{in8 shtn
n beohA lie nglt side Dinple
lik poin6suroundcdbynli6s

Ioldsreplacerh. pufis Tne ft.
cinultr ontlbs on thebackol rh.
rabtuan'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!

pnfg{h€nns roi Pi.ned nir
grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro

Ma$d rund pulE citnd dt usi4 fte scnril, kft ih€ PdEh einc rencils harEciilrs * 1161
covcng.ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcd onb rhengh sideoI rh. Iahnc. Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hr
putrsron r@ denne'lby the gd opoings rrd g*h.rlng cur
Nnber or rumcdpuflsrbchcd 'd sdrh andsalns rich druler ou! ouron rhccinlrr oulljra tr*ed
rherolndation The kiclraud linetishlly Pushth. pufisw md on $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh r
30.lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'l sFEd odr rhebmchedpur labnr senry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.dand
e'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh€ DI' {th th poinro{theIEde Gsrh* Nrnedundd vbil. si!9, gnthq
nedPlfi on r hE snug8k tnc rheedsBof dr r,bric b Mth 6€
pufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*d nssu(nenB of &e puFgarh€nd pnll.d dsht{odnd x rmovabL.
nom ecushiondlgrlh6. outliG seuselire , Pcncilor dorel Us
.vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed,botrt ink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshr nrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdl
,a"(l.rd),Fn, od.d insidtI ertd sdicbinssell to dtd rutuE
l,rgq circleof hbn.. M& wo linins hcked rorh€g'thabg
rhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhedu! FE Fur gdh.ring andi6 vira
ItG. calhd bolhIw5 bgh l shile bchild thepurs $mdi6 rherabn. rio6. rh. $nncdbs roLcrnk6.d
pNhiu lhepufi drL in &. cnrF o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ing by th. s*hainsh<omt longd 6
up.ald dregdhs.d labricber$en thi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas
|h. bs downrorom i b,* und{ inq66. ind depd s rhE.rcks
$c puftrnd rum. s€wlncbascroa
lound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to J#asQ-"r.-o
'EdgertnGhbg for Rum6" @
;-:pttQ-o.\i*_
w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufis
rnd lhe folds.onncdng lllc puffs i\
c@Ehd r])chbnc inro apar
En.d rtllcl PuffsrhFing sbns
sirh asEncilof cr ou cid6
amDgEdon i Bnd(Fig.I r5).

-:ri rana^cayoya\t) sh.r tb)6ahetteh|,

-?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb a rcwatya ws Mbh
.. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an

, {,,9!'i'3 . ho Li(hrLn' rd





: :: l - :

. !./-,

3

'=,?a

)hei.

..ri'YfL.1€n1i

) Shirring

SHRRING ,Iel nrrclinglin6 sp1adouL
ovd rh. shidng srcRMarkthe
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol
* &hingsM *nisht eds rhe .hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide
d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5 ot $e fabricwirh a hbricrar.
hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds,
PRocEDLTRES or dcp.ndonasclins nKhinc

nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr
fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how mdchedto corespondingses

gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB' ro PrePaErh€tabrn lor gdhd-
puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd 'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh
os. ro 6rim.rede hnsrhot
nnshirrcdl:'bft n.eded'd pro' srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
du.c th. desind lullncs b d.
shirrtd fabdc.muldply rheE. sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd

g.' dc*ultEmr by 'ne aEouDr ''6*heringMerhodconpss.r).

dqhtilrK .lbodlrrtr thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd

@renmirh6.:s4dl r 3 (lnoE) (nrhinc *wing) oI mchsnn
2. Addinga$cona basurcnem lor c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a

ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th. ach ov roa nn surfaa mrk€d
hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn.
shriir<rs4hdy d.K 'n€e h' tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or
ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i .ordsr lhc cndsof wo or non
D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o adjaenrrcNsof nidrins in one
6" (15tb) my shhnr<r (5nr)
rrcn i6 nonshirtd 11"oojm) trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh.
bs'n As:henunberot sarh hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h
crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e

,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded
.
4#

. i ' L , . . r i r i - , r i J . I L l r r j t!r!

riiijxrF-'if jrtll+riir

.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr

ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr

.b ? 5 srn4 !a!r*r dh rale

Norr5 a- VARiArroNs

r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!

tarsiry tandsid./redo' onasde
sidesib) sby h;id ri.h.d rori'

L hh, r r F , rr r t . r r L r , f i \

::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a

, i { r g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b

-|]rlr( s't|fflbn!l]tG

i:,, rr!.d, Fr i5!r,lunl rio{r

L r L h t r o $ \ n l i r L rdeo l 0 l 'hciish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

\trh radnntrgrul!1!5Drorr{rrr) dutuE! \1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s

nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh.hbnr L!lrh

!.nhuD8 on Pag! L7) 9N(d I!h-
.{0\ ar*nrrrribur! rornru.

{rudurr (rcir o crhsirn

{(h nr.h (rft. b _(;rh.ug ro u,/l(,rrur^s rh| h6. htdr
\LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind
ii. drrEd in'o rjunbl! of$\rl og

:<

:;
'-

A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng sns a 4,and5ae *e@t ean 6
I,ufl.dtin .nbtl|ishs lounds

Iabri.:(1)Pns 'ht nm nlo{- |@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb
fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@
anG onrl'clongelgs unds sfuingafuysnaww'mwng
ncarh(2) r mesurd NcNrls |hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed

sF.!d dd alonerh! l.nsrhorrhe No tabn!hrar A fullor pfli'l

tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd Fie.23. dsq heaw2pdb{6 al Lalti(Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrsth.
srhcr dghrlr:(r) Rcducnuft dr 6l'i. b :i- onchnmdlcd.ods n
bncldwro rhesdh.RdinFr eds,noFd 'h. !nd5oIrhtsds o.
s.rionsrdpdfi'h. 'nr^rr,!s mdsph.nl tb. SiLhd'ngfbn .or
hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.ddg.s hg uDdoncburauowdr gnhcnfs

F a foundarionsh, api,,EscsLLorcdireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd

(FiB 2.3) shonenrhedjshnE

sr.v.d slii,irsrq 5asdt

Fo!shidng roputl,$. dishtr( 'nc$uRdad$ 'n 3arhrtd b\s. :=
b{u rD 'hc sarhercdo\5 inur h. hutlongs dm ihcrc{s o .[ov
sp{€ rorrngling.(lI $. nry hbnctr
alorNr h$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r
'h. dinaDc!berqEn sdh*d m$ Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n )
Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhelld rowb the
b drca 'Nmd drpdl $ho adja tir pul 'hc loldsEl€ed tsomlnc
rtd rcws,c rorc.ddos and.
e{{&l\ rons{ fordsdEPcof Iulr andholdi| rhd srinkd posnron
u'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo|
b pufial shiniDsin coinrudion, gadr.ndsltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp

p,iedvdy laEc(Fig 2 s) DruP.d shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previ
ousI\M (Fis.z r0) sr.vh8 shon-
elknls. wh{6 Puredshinrg ensft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI

Th. rcladonshLbp{we! rolds ct@d J,irn,s i5sr End on
andreNso{ gadcrednndng
thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg NtrhodtonFse6) lht foldsRi.
ona|{htn shtn4 Gsk$lrd
rl.s.d bcNe! qns sdrh€d in
aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an

-Ee

r€irt i n1:r{3,1!'rii aL nF ir

siii € rFdrt ie /r' oi,€rf f! tii !d n r
ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t€

ir , E rlf 1a,r 0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnr€o

rr @a,ro!4! 4. r r r , {j!(.rr ! .r.4r xF. ,.!" ( r * an '! !r-r <rrr€d
f t Ir ia:lni r ar I

ri trrcd(l i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, !

]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d

{i! oillcr f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr
rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!]

lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'





H T (,NC

PATTERN ,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.
SHTRRTNG orlne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r viiia'idB in rM spr.in8rnd nr.B
pdd.dsu reaDdnon\tuh ubnnsh r stithingPalnPm
-6brn automra t 3hh€dwnh m nonhdd abd{€fi. shtiins. dua dir6q in rh. nli* ornsn'
thesathedngrod IonN ry a dsisn dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn-
NoEs & YARTATToN5 $on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc
PRoclDURES lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns
rar $!el npq6 of rhedds! ,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\
sidcot G. I:bft 6 theo'n{ on a enPle of dred*Ei,rd labd gaLh.iingktion .an b€maDually
to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith nnucd by inhihidnsl!. hbft
2. rEce tnedaign onrorhcrmns lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b' fron movhgaslly bw,fti rhcm.
3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh ehbnc ndc ssrheringand ro 6sc d.i,ll de Io inft* fu1ln6s.Fm th.
d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i
]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth. 6nss a ir emel36behind&r
$. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc
Mdnods onpqqct), sdrh and d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk 'h. dr labn! buiklsup in b&k orthe
s,$.r e.h ih€ o{d; d6isn sqv
slo l ndppdg'o $t&c plss .ihc appli€ton, msure : eFple Bcrusc or tlred€dry nd .on
Ioound pivorihchbricon$e oI rh. fahricbcfoE ard aIt! a t{ pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,
nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib pikrn- andmrandsjhired rab-
€quiE ddj6'frd' h e6.d. qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb hc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t
lishL'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib norr4d prcredionrDmsR$.nd
M.4zln inirg is inrreded
lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc rtittr ssbilizin8mayte quiftil
d€d8nEDd{s rr!.\ ron.id md BsE asby b rh! shnftd hbnc
h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM
riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione funak rotiE sarherednirhrie
ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

i )r irit qqqli, rt.rr.

P A T T E R NS H i R RN 6

rirj .icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,

4 d€'otr. E$!Ei iiir riff' fcrcii!n$roioonoi
@l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e

Supplementary
Fullness

mIry *g

;* , ,.

J Mahingk"tfJles

R U F F L EB A s l c s

EDGEFrNrsHtN6FoR
RurFrEs

Do$led.?bn... .. .. +4 nunedesigrE. .. 56

shrll Hm b)€cddoublctdg.J n8s7 s LDtsh(h..dgelhetnqfta
rull.d doubh.e4edrurl]c. t7 Lr{ oflirdrd rnmd or*dhq
lxr{ of fahncn, oronlyp}orc6d.
rdst or,henJne bur?lsorfi.cr dr

$duooleofrh.lu l.i noNr[k!

G ,shdrh.nedRqdrosrrprlh.dnchdhaI srshd.frl.d
u,

cfcd or rrr.f"oRr:, nm. LrGd

onrrmktd [dg. pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare
Ronqor{rro.kedEd$ng .+e 14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

sinslc.srdtnLm.
Lnltitd sidslrcdscdrun6 .51
Pufirdsingledg.drume 52

Nors rhis chaprr b.ginsfrrh
BASTChSd,Ered byasnr bhd

rppsmc s{fl1s trstrrpkldn hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh.
&h. r. (no!rd. onebr one. rrom
r h . n o nr h . r i n s [ o n b c n n f frhshs drPcns.,!oid snrss.nd

mnrd G 5dytdgt f douhlLdfab. row z!?a8 eDs tu bF or 'h.

n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringd
or doubtd rid ptrIl.d nLllt.),or
ftaudir G $rin nnch.do' cor
Ldu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse

n o n u n n n l l , n gr u n h dw n h . u r
ror.,dnuh, 1orhc.dscr.snip

Lrncol sdrhtd rhreardi. obviors lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq Ftr 33 F6ins asirde bb edse
onborl,sid.sorrh. rum.rwrl, orlj tinish:la) P'wte thetufltdlip as
d{plr frinsdnm6 rm,lrostr shawnlb) Fad at he tus e@ al
cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs
m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl A loldturish$rlt flo nsd$
R l., 'h. /.mq otl/l. s,n0 t's or
ddrbhdJar'ir Doublnedn5 body
PJdir{, ,fti 'Jr Pri.ft?l rit4ir h rhtrlFk rumtRndhnLkio rlr
huDch.sdnrr o'pl.n lolds! rhc
ij,ft olrr..pr,J,raio Icr dtud
nor edsrfinrhB or anrap ol rlr

instu,xmc alH$ f,nshrht LhLlms nls$ h doubhrh. run(
{ip c( Lh(shp Io! arumew
A frft nn ed3e.aPPrePrhrfor rlo sid!\ (i ddubl!-L(ig.dnnd
onrll ord rJd ndl,is b Lhr
dethnioDoI rherufie! .d8t cnt rwift N nide* horhn fs rLus

llnishbgquicklynnc ronnwd d€d nndins Lin.rodouL. ft rur.
lL {nP (ng r4) Edstn H5aD bc
't|E piri.d cdg.ol awdrn Iab Fie 3 2. (a)stutdy ne eatadhs soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a
ncrum!.orulli lur6 ou,btrl (b) snhped hi@e tinishs6hed al
ksnGnYtlrrnsPinrrhsdo6n\ -
ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng t6en l,
whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLchbri. hndd {rh insid.a shsh fotd
tss.dsr]'.!ilg!ol.flfflc.'h. ldsdhtr vih rho';or (Fis.r ,. :,.,
edseisdffinrhd. Tht $nbiF rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar
tnsedses:(a)sinde4d@ntufte
andhbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn. .tip (b)Dalbled@d ruttbskp
ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP,hL rlod ot , b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

rheson.ird.l'mt qu|nr or!
rum! !trh afrh8.d {+r insq*s

!r,l,c 3{h{n3rht a n,m€rfih a

id.is!, ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.

l-r-- J

.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5 rrt

tTv\*l, Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)nelbh the
2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k drdire ta rheskir wth 'sLt .id6
.ach'tu at(a)a eEte &9& turb, tdqethcr Eirhattb) hantt nkh bo
it lb)a daMcdsed tutu, b theriehl tu,h a eantauredand edaes chej brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann
|fulngedgeslllxuchedinba& ba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabed
(d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6 edse beydndthchhhs scan h
'in th,cttibn td) sew th,adndrng

\!tr,, [Nrs lo.r Mkr]d ro rrf

bolLl'qLd5(fLs l3) \i!a'iri

n n P m 6 L n L \ i hi i d . r f b u

firdns n dtrLh!aon iur \r[n! ntrtuLJdrdsr .r rhr binLlD(b 'L-
Lr'!dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr qmennf lrl !,( !tritr,sdr

dtbnrdir*ro1rr (Lll. ifis J i)

Ih. r no.r oldNhl. t0ld

dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor i lgli€rcd inlh 'hn*ng!or.
pr$Lng r do!bL€Iold htn' uo rh.

tr' (5Nnr h iu{n€ \1d'h Iu Lh trdt u'ollrr r.!" o,nnrl and p(!
r d b n G i n o t h . r o r dt ( { f ?
r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-
1t L

t

lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord

Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shen
h3n pltbe)sDalcu)bfbheldaslihtenhttzoxaqw'ryant.hee
atlaErce down\' l3nn). rake antt
aa (6nn) sfuehn tre hen atb\|
B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb|
hteae attnah6nc jtst bchwthe tl l6m); p6h t thtaDehthe )rnel Fs ?12 la)stniEhtstw)@ atut
h@ takJand oi h bact td) c{ry bbrabhenu apndaten@rbhna

snothet,' lhn) srbr n he hen hpe avet thehen le) Pu te tread

ta, I 12scn) slrptrs atue2t
stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc) pltrhe

't

,-*

cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd la) staishtnibhe Men ctt wh ap)nred
wheDth3 ,etJc-eE sdsht
tud vrh a Mn reedtc aDdu) cDt (c) gded Lah he

l rd r {r!h{rtd r0'

.ri mrs\trhoft $inrlis ik

.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.

P(*( Lqd!, LruL,h,o, r.j,sr .q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof

'ir ihDAro.n€|ot i+r rr

I
t

E

i

!

=

N-€{s 1 si,sreroLdhinrnx

{d) G) pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v lrin,
eoeFdtnaeqqt3eaew1nl6tueh.nnSthdeaeeqthtraunsasrnbske@tFdesttalbehdw'{9nan2arc9itseaszt:haa(nwsase)rrdsbhehfa\ue|nrdopdttsIuatrhttzt tsoiorEirbththirne) qsdt.edtw)esh@ea,rnee,ta)bv)kesttedawendn 1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'
[email protected])s,.wnow a try, stashtsrbh,edsinsretddhen tut dk:!p.4

rrr (ris r-r6)ro Prs.d Ir Qr th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\:
!d*h$. iLreJKi/h..dsrrs.r rhlr
,,u !$eLLh{$r(i$fod
rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB r ri) wtrhLh.(ftLnrirNo,ssidiu.
$! N'h 1lt u{drejun Dcqu*

an [email protected]. requiE a Gerrrnro

nrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc SINGLE-EDGED
6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrp RUFFLE
iBid. ' l'dd.rcd chainof loay
ftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicb + of ftb.k virh on. hn!
bsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad ldge"sdtphered b a$ora aE4
.@ge. fie erin stibhed.dsbss n.uuroma! md id.hen @iht
6brr.,-Iheoppgne edlefloc h
ddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ously

c.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochns
srrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf€ .rin-

|f,. n..iil. hd dthg rhe f'bnc PRocEDtrus

9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'heseuon L cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llk-
it u! wh.n r beom6 rec*
tiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile
rr. zisas srirh.d edsrdn (EIer b "Edgc F tshing fq

rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of Rums' onlqse4r). ro $r,
sidln foi rhenfile saip,dd r
$,m dloHnce b lhe cdshed
ddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahd
tndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-

Fs.3.m (a)LdM.dsirc M a LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t
t#t\dt tb) wq sdsitgn tias. etedsinde4de.d tunh6 tua
*rss rftion of ho ine.dsins.!l.
dgas 6ni5hd*dbed pF:osly |!||bddhahdasenalbwM
b6dekogdhlings@whh
Mrh i Prcc.duBrdirhrnc As[.d
aqlo.k d €ds€is srich.d uti &. edger ead8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;
nsht sid. oI l]1.Lld. !p. on ass
a frIn a3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ld

rosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptr
roopdrbEd @6ll ,mnd b rh.

backoI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe.+.

r. Deidc hownu.h rullnG the

SarheEdromeshoulddcplr-
slighqDods:te, s.n.ms,

u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh,

sing hry.r n*uco€Dt fq rh.
am. ToErimtr rh. ldgrh oI
ln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lne

d6ir.d rulrndsh &. rum.,
Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunr

t'y rheamounirndi. edince

dldNilrix= lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum.
fabdc,idendcrlin frdrh ,nd fin

. Aricndr dcc ofsriF.r dn arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh
lhesMighigEinol th. hbn.
d,h rnErdsi! th. \qvc. To
.xrnd ,h. lcq,h dfarum.
snip,ss rhcshonedgsof
fu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl
{rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh.

open(Iic. '2r) (ro con
dnbB rff! ndp curonrh.
shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi

rhe hrsd m*surme{ (Efc ro Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa
,@n (a)Basb uEtufltdb tabic
"6aihei3Me,nod on pasc3), *1. lb) Ph ttbk 12ow he tuttb,
[email protected] G)aph@r
scung bside ih€ dslgDad
. As, hcn ru(1ctlEr lis on
sanline inside th. *m .Uo* bp of rhehbnc 6 whichir

arcE ro d€rr dth I lengdy ruf Irom $c f,bft to whrh I
is dkched Fortop nfis,
nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulled-
rftsd nitching, divide &e de. Fis I ll on pag.i) For

b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i loi rarins *,n allowancs
rE. or.iqh$s; ru rhedni inchd., (l) ziszassdrhirs

sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h (Fis.3 16);(2) c6€nne wirh
, litus o! ildsibre hchs
Fis 323.c6stah tuke*aB ro Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r (nld b rE 4.9 on page70);
hawasfudgeedqefu'' G) coanng sth ad{ohlR
large||fustip'dndextahb|b Dtsrnhr 'nEsa'necdmlr Iacins(w thcrmc dshr
frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e 6. Pd rn. g,rh,rededseof lheruI nd. up b rh. wronseideoI
rh. hbnc {d run rheri.ug
. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh€ lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r! 6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[
hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln. b bcapplicd;bsr dtedy ov.r
lne g{h{ins nfths Machine
.xdd rh. lcngrhdl arfi.
. nnp, ss theangl.dedgsoI b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng
$tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion
M5dP5egethd!i']righl nn.rils ard the3afidcd $m
sd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE allowana in 'n. prcc*s of

the *rn ilowanc€ open
(Fig r,r4) (Fo!a co,rinu
oNru 1.nnpdr d! n\eln6,
Ers 6 Fis.e 13onplge200.)
4. Appll 'h. selededfinnh b one
roig e+e dr rheromennp.

rumc{ips nrtd earh.nDsa.uro-
maic sdhdns urng ft. Srdenns
foolor Bm{ rhdnnor tss hn
irrfn{i.. (Referro
a'Gnda.frir"din.nst Mdhodso' nplg. t)

as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,

M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE i (1)!rus , n'neB*n dlo{aDc
.dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n. (onlr rhe$:n aLlovnrt). ldmng
ab$nee ds* tb)Fuiaa han ae.323 (a)Funb*sbd b tu lrqklon &e noq (2)msh dr sun
edsaota circtebetaEtb)edse. rr]owan.c,kunul,tidunod(
rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). The nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEd
n@rinsals€ of ln. rumE NorEs €r VARTATToN5 ldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh all
lry.B iftd aPPlyirurhenmq
$$t oEilPs :covo$ ft. ,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an (a) or ,ry .onbimuon orn\eabwe
b. gdh.rcdmuchnon dch+ lna! Bulrgsm allowrnG tdnribunn
appl'udond.bils of rh€nft. undrtl)in8limn6 roRpdtinons
bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc or B@!a r rurncor on drebns lrh b* ofgalnsedsinsrc.€d8.d
rheDm€ r ln. bp ml be tn& b zb6orbsarhdsr 'h{
nitchinglde, ahi6-dr rumcn,y Thes,thcd ed$ orashsle.
5io! orralfic Tl[ nm. r rh! bcgarhd.dnu.h FoE rshrty rhsn edsEdnft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE
a rumedr o rhcsn$hqEh of .un.d ind rye Dsted appticl
rh. ene fabnc Topftduurtrac-
dc runns a, rhenoadrscdge.r ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[md
widerumenecdsughE!sadenng luil d 'henodinseds.unk$ r t
garhendah ichdv r rlrc$urc.
Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o! AddldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip ro
rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht alio{ Iorrhedcn* sdh.ing
q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on. .ur!.d ud anslcdapPrjGrons

!rip! sathqedlid trsft b nod<- insid.acun.,.irck. orrnglerulr
r€ ddTry br shk. s*henng r bulgeri$ squekd tolds{ $.
nor ssily omrcned sth fr! no:us Mgc unlc$ thesrhenns n
nvsorsdahing.wltny &or lishEDedFor. nLmcappltd

g{hdin$ rorairmcsppltd bd.

Fb 3.27.netedtufits4died ta2
tu edthacd4tuni. md lqzis
sLbhhEavettheedseat th tuhteE

. A, ,heedeeoI sDrrelftr ln
lill b. rPPliqu€dto atoundi