The Art of Manipulating Fabric

Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd p'riEr*sdpetecaBtA:ta) cehnsttudaabNkh3nqoinmtrhydpehaanrtad 'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|,or
creaseathe sides.tb)fuh t be bas at bPPh-w 6 @t^a^d i"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc a
rclLot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins

Ite. u.k dE qlildr. atrLcrop
rnd bs.. b 'ht rabncb.hird ir

ddeIninrrysam(Fc 626)

,,_i Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'
{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu*

'hnds,ndk rhcL\iid dlBr b lnE

,4b b@ heqer pbeE dnd 4.o,e ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4 at Fa - fi{ pann.l &r s€4 (2)Holdins

nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii

( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc corr pld h rh.rop.4q hck dn.hinc r]]c0ngd{n6.d 6E ro
e rro inns rbrdsre&. ptur)
'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmry rrohledPsdin.d*raemdd.F6i.n(g3c)PtunDsotru ,qy
rtam. ['ng{ q4* thc rNo nev ssn. Fis{ ct!€ il lotdsbdoft dc

(2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66 remvins rh. pins o) Ar theba*, Pns,rr6ng No inrrio. pteb
haDds.k rhmugl,n $ne pl€a6, rrh rom I suPpodfd! 'h€dde
.rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6 ddbs rhctoldol $e 3mlbr q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und
plet d ,ir€@Er (r) runins
$de {olds b rh. pim,rji €m. rh. loldsofln. dd€Pla6 dosr foldsol dr strftundiq Pr€dro
F,ncs prt* ,he Dewourr tokls b lnehednr& b& a.h ouEr
(r) s€dr E d.{nbed Ior rhe lold rorhepdmry san ard.

(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold

Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft! sean, tnd tb) standthe pteatrhih E.tab@ be @ ateatatbwarc
lc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aad
{old. c) PBh fic Pin-sm doM stEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha' sean.
@$e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhc
pratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni Pi!-
*rm dd d. Pnmlry sn dr ro
'he sjds. Thr Pl.r6 rom.d ar &.
nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e

t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc nid'h spi.c Thelm31hofth.
lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch ,fthd hbrn b€tur! 'h.
LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.
l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE
b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt
vidrl, rcquncdlor rlenlng
Norls & VAxL{TroNs
oeJ l!bn. { long6 rht ta'$r
con,parinsrhrprcj(rng rleas cho*n dqnh ol rlrepl.d hcd
snul.bo:pl.ebrn $.1.*r r h6dLn3s {i,lc s $. sby br_
'rhing 'lt rol,rorh. backreis
,limensionrNl ilh doubledboi slfcr drcrmL'.k drh inkt{r'

hny it doelr spacedp.rc$nr 1hc pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro. lidrh srre or thenarr*!{drd
j.dingpr.,r hLrunnEsedfton mnchN'h dnl|ll.ariq!pln
p.rpcndicuhrinnlin$ on dE
Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh rh. spnid ol rh. folds,rg rd nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxrnnlhLne
look likesnall.rsr. pipeo,Ean $rckc r lol(Gbdq(D h.adins lo{s cdgcoriht tunlrck (u*
sBh) (t od (h)h r,e 6 2q)
rnd heminlo flo{iru rcsdarnr AlisnDBLhtrop?dgrorrlr hb
gou 'ne anngene kEPddli\ Iir 0 th! rop.dgc oL$. nrti
I)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on
pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull. loo$ly wappedan,lpinled rcund
o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc t h e h m g l g l J b d c s 6 E w h d ,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS

j.crins plcb sn bc.oDbinedin ro bchompnuos, samsFh- plene,lhbric wnh a,loublt- or
rhesme h.a,linsro Er) d. nruc- ins lenghsof Lbric shoul hll oo
stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b
d.pdloL lh. lotdsnl.adb) rc

Th. pkarelloNinrt.an bt subdi PRoCEDUREFSoR
idcd inro6 ,nmy roLdsasr|r rab- CARTrrDGaPr,EATs
ft {ill sunah, aDdrhc folds can be
!a&d Lndtp'h a \dl s'lmng (rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr
duDs6 rhr. foldpinchpls6 inro ro"Prcftdurcsor plgt l0r)
3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!,
Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed hbn. b mnch allerir js plakd
d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora
rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh

orsanpLca6oar Dccda,ldiioul Intte nl.Risphnnd for rht hr
hlkins x' 'hc rop.b$id. rheprima'
q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iorm .u*ing ptujr.lon for ach
ion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mb oI hbric oi parq roaplar
blhs froo sid. rosjdeFjns,PEs
'4 rd iqtr!8 lne 5hcMd

Iolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr

.i.x,in3 , Packcdm6 or fordsdrt)
: rln.k .dgc(t) in Fie cro)

lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun(
pld a br suipdrtubri.6 dnered
jn dE lolloMng,xnddu.h ror a.

n.sur ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6

aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.
0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. onth.
hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr
s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6.
Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets
&Ed€plnoIr]t plsb {2) tun{u
dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6in
ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd!
ins$c tabncdo J.ely r,y.rtd
roldsG) sundingrh€pke6 ontntl
sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn
otoch loll rd,rE3ry 116ar roosrhe

l roP.rhenI tht borcn Gig er2)

NorEs I VairATloNs J'_v--!/__\f--]-^ rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud.
adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m
rs,sd oran4i atigntdb $. 1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\
roporrh.DkxrdLbnq bbn. m,y Touru.rh ,h. sP4insoI $e lotds,
h. plaEd ror,\clowd .dgt of hbnc n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dortedsuid€-
du' c{.nds abs€ dr plrd{d hb.
[D6. a dor iDr $$y idrh jnb a
d6isn.d 1optu}d i lirle o. : lor
rdld Gnridsepknrd hbnc bm.d
dder PleaEsby hbnc stbtrldhc agehdndg.el*|prces o I sq Prcj4s ous?'d bdorc
dromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni. tallhc in rivLh for& rorh. floniDs
adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like qte. rh. drhade Gbcn.r,e Nhm
soJrernils. PrcdsrarLhb , ' dsfiL ii rheanndgc drSor): ,ht 5br erdEhs : solidlom. I dr
dEpeiGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l. Theplcr6 xn fo@Edon g:uscd hbnt tskB ninandrh.pteb hnty
dep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaam *lI.
rordosl rhrdhP. ro doP..$chb "Ga'hcdnMs erhodsonPlse4). 5qPorirga shd upnghor r
nc NaDe pu pl€' nui be .xhd rikcashdfhor rh. ray
ntrlh widd $an rhc$kMllokd
p.r pl.{ o! lh€sbr Tl[ $rr
shoud b. rpprupii,crr drP eid

rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,
dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne
\!id$ ot oft *in L\nrlurs adEp
{ne} beMcn rhc bulging.!16 on

t! 1f t! '

'i:

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I
't,1-
t

a-t : I t---:-7-

!



AccoRDroN

PI EATS

d brdr,Ganns proicc ig P4$

ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)

BmF) rrr mc.h s y formed

HAND-FoI|I{ID

AccoRDroNPrEArs

form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.

,h. str?,ghrr!!:. dl r iifi inP oI

rordsL sb.rPlf qrrel (b)

.uLstrlul!,hf rmuDr of hhn.

qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo

NorEs €r VARTATToNS

r/ (1r..t or sulL.r D dtp(hs

spreidofor. n.o'nir plc{

Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d rai- f.n m,Lrhelt @rc nid noni

nkhr. m.h o{r sch h&k o lJgrr. or lbldmd ss 'hEhld
j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav Rlrr tj.ssnrs lid cslh plq's
roLdsnat be pdmorLr rix.d

!(d on pld.d hbrf n l]ql Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly
rh.in ?ndon, roldhBLmptrb{I
PRoaEDUREF5oRMI 'r-
n. tsaccordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n A c c o R D I o NP r E , { T T N G

cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback 'h! tuLfr (R.r. h 'r!n'a x
cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay nloddns PL€iterod pagt 126)

oplmDr\.lh€Lo\'fleJFd| foLdr. rht nar wrh rqudDudl ai,lt hp eJseill.qt h)
spd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi

rhtad vakf i,h\ 'loubll
lold rD rhd LB insid.rh.

pldinsrhr.d (Fis 6i6i

rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql,
rhc folds. rrk thEplcrtr 'n'o .

Ld'!, sdr jdnns rnn |tcs

riqnmqr gf (F.rrins[Dg

Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l

Nrorls €t VARJArro\'s

b 4 (I) cu,a iDpe,) o f r h .r l , r ! l r r r n r nr r
lEr rrl (ur plrr hbn! Iq
rrl F0[,-iic d]! L?{ rtr\

'lKiJ q trol']h..\|nd 'h€|old'r]IDfil]][\lllld||p(
Lh.r!rJsorr(hinm h tonn.d
sF.|].!l]'l'1\luLrL]s'
rfd cr rlr df N.r

.rrnd ribn. o! Pra.6 ) rl.i h\ hind foli$i,sagrrdor
t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo

--

l:

{

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WRINKLED
PLEATING

|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml&

Ddlod) nur he onnft.n

PRocEDLTRES

sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

\!r rib( hps f ir n0)
n l'iir) \ijd! \rnd 'rrr
fi.( unl rLre,..d hbr
r (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)

t ro irbilie brcoinnickphring. innft' ofirs PrePJcarnNModiri
cnors.l.ng.lhrtosul' Fdr
dbr requics (F0 aPnrnrne ric fo! hroomnickpl. ng: EnhE.
dionrk{i 34.on pr8qLrl )
ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g
NoTEs& VARraoNs

suchn5.hnu sirr(andiishrNoglir hbn. imnnd aa..h trLm!.{r
!non. rrtc bci Loqrhlr.d doN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd.
pl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI hnsd ofbindrDsf.t t|t rorltd
rld rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[
Addqins tshrLydh .ordrorlr
ait{ PL€di,s.rhcsids ot raldlE rnd nnring I rcc.du{s ol
hmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor
tunnflbn pr.arcd fabic \!i n| tls llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son
Pre'i3 rh. LIooNftk ndhcd Lod{lrind kccPh adntrs o.
pioduc .i4E5rod cnss rhn \i ru o $c rtasa orwn r.!i
phrhs. bu1rhcpllas cn l,eEsr

N rtphLri lhe p(paErh and

coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foud
lar.nD8-bu subsequ€nrN!*$



DoUBLE- $rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lhe ,u.k wh.n rh br.k loldso{.a.
CoNTRoLLED plscoism@sbbiledr* I, ddst 0 h?ndlonfd erodidi
fte hldsorrdl<dc ,pplrotu's plos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim
PLEATS pL'I $nh rh..ooFntion orllm
thbtu m LskJ 'o atul 5hr

PRocrDL'RES ndmmg* mirc|no\'td pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB.
slowlyibo\t rhcsurl&eofrhe
l. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiBd'. hbnc AlloNb @olud dry dim brcorudct, o .dirddn plu!

iir sids of rhdlabdc,tbloqng Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5 srrlu spRd ouraid buncdi! L\c
dE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd .om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de
9?. orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir Prd4 $tu'b6 trDtrcquiEF, $niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhed!&non ol
td6 (ll PkaGronneodnadiaclt |ht|oldldr\nnk|6aid[u!rlt
2. sFLiliI r pktu d hothods alsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh.roldc
Eirh{ udslhrnar 'he pk,,td N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs t !!iqur,
b lmEl8e { d hgk D rh. ftnre
$!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPice (1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,he e! $iho pidous narkinss or
of hbnc, or nrbilic rirhdur hbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'd dns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligt
u sLus befoth"nd, a rpprc ndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh. ol rhr dFLhs rah.n b dr bp .dcc
pni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[c olx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*
rquiEmms of ft parricular hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d al
pl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th€ ilEnd' wdrkinstum rtutopdo\r. pullup
d diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg. aloldNirh$e poin'of 'h! n .dlr.
,d rd+, and spreadro dlow lor i
ptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h Gq 8lotrid rlr IohLtorlrcsq srh dnrl
diRdior adrptablero pl.ahs. {pRiakd bkksiithes Pusbrnd pdlL
dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,

andopposi@rdsecarhdne,_

Norsardv{i'idc, onpag.17) rlrclolds.r-inn rl,clmsln od
Pnlscdfoldr,.cr!ftiion plcft, and

siree,r,lsNhame Plerd 6bnc is Th. foldsoI@5vd pLd6pufiw

shtldd ow. sdlunddlb tlrlplsb nduc uch sidcofa pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a
iru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr squa€oi tian8leof hbncvirh rht
rordst.hm brst $e PrerEde+6 b x rcnnrN6 hhncinloaJirr(tdL.
in oic din.don or one.dgc si fro Exdle6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m
s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bnc
01ds6. or thc alc or plst. Mln ror plctud lcngin or{abdc
m y b . l c f tn i s , o r r a n b . t d c d undlit rcrch6Lhcbl!c' mcisrir
rhEloldsithec{E!€t${dr+e doM hh r @rirE s{d dr(ac t.xnlrlors.un!: l'onddirionrl
ol'ndM{.igh'dKlphb rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts
kNs thc €ds of rhc Plols c andgrco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b r sno.king Phrd onpasrD6)
Todnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I. 'Furu\line or pogcq).or nutrcd
aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl
inb bi{uib (rcLr b "Bscuirt oo

Pase2r3) vdtuli us Pdlh Pre's
forlabncduddn i blsdldrrlrc

rhc rolrsolfd.d pr.a6ft 5hbi
Itredhb prmaDcd.immoshlc

orl(N tolds,lxing pushspLaGin
rcn-plerlik djrcdioc.Forqam.

D O I J B L EC O N T R O L L E D
P LF A T S



I

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'1S<-:- i-- '

--i ti.

1r\\\\!r\

?:

/ Smoching

SMOCKTNBGAsrcs

FAarucREeurEDFoR
SMocxrNc

hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs pro
j.. rh'! ahi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr
sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc

dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr s
ori hli,jcli|(cfnisrphn snL

hLn..{nar nnrMd nnrrr

UsrNGA SMocKrNc rrNrd5 (l$d o,Eod o{rLrcrLrr6d5l

PIIATER

DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.

nrsvor[id on a sni]r gnd

iLonsrr r.rsrhofrhrrr.rs
r|t rulri dn(lioul pulloL

(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll,or
rtv i 0, i silur! of rlt .hD

ird MmN. rht rtrbi. Dbdh ]hIfh!lg$''o]|l]r'aLn.Jlnnd
JrEdi6 he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr

,hl h rdleb,no!e rrr fab,i. $hq or. fr( 0rhhn. Nr

|l'kPllrq'hNl5aos:'ht

r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr

,1" GDn) d<p. rlDr,rr hrdkr, llr dlttr.r Ld\!q' No r(ttlun

dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrq
orlk Prar. Al,o drlr.,dFgon

01!F) b rr" (r0r.n) r {.ond

trl P{rb! oI rhe fabrn of 6

SMoakrN6EMsRotDERy hdcrL(hd nrdrs 'rr' [n rdt
5,,r( HE5 m' rL6$bsdh{ (.ie 7 $l

(moFd. rh! nndE holdtu Iold: {

is$orfllhn3 Elrrr nr.h tot 6
inF rs osi pltrh (rh! o,\ |

! Lrfibdor ord uDd. Lhr!p ol

Fb 7-3.la)MaviretuM lrlde 2
taunademtbu)rsstrcqh)tn)gttaoarcttdbe6 toeethet.
rcrc al

Foqr@,mqo,r,. rhl,h d

r'lol,drr(Iis rlr) al lPd

la'lzbxien65b4ightsil$

o|!d nd runrdo"d dr su'n

I nooLh rrbu b,!d5tu edse(Rd{

on Fs$ 17Iffdtrtdnns iP c

v 4r( in!hi!* wqr or! 'h! MANAGT\G Tna lrh ?nmt. rook rh. tunxtlur ol
SMoCXING-PLEAT!t) LhcqrsrNr h.n rltrnm. (d{
triGhon€roN|j!!M!N.! EDGE prsc{r) ]\Lrh! b$ ol 'l( rufi]!
s$ll(re.j3hLbltl]]h.]idmg
5 L i ' r i : ca n n o d { h s - r r d r t rr d s . uorr,dr .dgcopntrdr\nh

ortuldr shhlnh.d ry rh. trn.r b\r

$or/.d,,, nilrNsq{h{- CRUJHED TJTLATIENED
PLFIIS

be orsdh{ nsnfdns o hasdns hennededgeald'e.|ly-snackd
hsid. r|t Qd rno\N€ $'irh rigtr( h.ney.fubp]aarna'sarn4fuhellat

nn I pdind !!!drr (Fis 7 r t)

rhrkr aoJ,n€frur ,o\! oLilolkd jdILghtr!Lighloallht|].lssh]l

dcrtLbd Burir rherab,r is ho!

STANDING ?].EAIs ENGLISH U* a frbncerc mnkins bol
'!q doubrcjorLdsn h dr.ds.
SMocKTNG $€ hbnc. usingali8hrbox
tor ohrDad isibili9r ald
h.mm.d c(k. ovd anarhbnc 5ha||wPL!8wit}rcnof3dkhiry' . TndhouBh , dd s,o.il
e{.nsion rnd h.k rlregrco€ oI EAtcityh:nEigshsmockig placd on bp ol rhctrbn.
.rh pler b 'hc labncundercrh.

lishe,hl yrh. smochns(Fig.7 16)

PRocrDLrRrs

t. ro $rimd. $e ,mounroI fabric
nquird, tri& ro"Fibi. tu+dd

FE v16.romhtutusbidtu 2. Plerrh.hbncrn(hinicaLly br mq h $e nFishrsEb

hdnd3&ch|helhadald.p]dbd (EI€! b lsirs a snodting

nircha htric t$mson or hpt ro Pi.r'rf dn pasc116).skrp$cps
rEPlar fordsin hrk, bdind dr *r s and#i. .ominucfrrh
fitr,I bv df req6orsmockinsnirh-
r. ro Plerfte hbricbrh'nd.mark
rhc cEft nikhinspadrol rhe*roi3 sidror'heLbrn wnh
.ddlodcdlralhDsmoclirufore : gid oI dob rlign.d rorhc
rh. r4s dr 'hc Preiedhbdc hb rEEhrsnin ol wovm &bnc.
shrpede,lgefor i6 d(ohic
drrd. or shn andllnnh rh€nn.h- rh. pkadDstobcchoc. in
ru I* d.ush froh Lh.tubri! aPPrDtrnnd€or-,ukh8 ocrhod
.d8eb nlor for anniehr *Rn or
. Plirt asno.l<'ngdor mnsf.r
sl].d ovs dr libnc Tmsld
rle do6 rorh. hbric \dh an

Fis h 7talnad) astteenuct6tadnbdnlba)*satwdtue
'tued

PaPdPancn or dr do6 u$
romBE mpr*DB b 'ne

(ro {n.h Nnha1i$uePars

Fig719Ale|p]ea]ihg'sccu|.lhe

I tsqecathnesLla)ott4tbt)pMo rdandqkLpeanrtctno,lab
th'eads ,qtte 3 !/e ataDrdpns

I nr r r l t l ) L r r , ai r s l

rd lLddjui rbu. dn hLn.! {n.,$ rrLri.rt \r[{
L | t r u Jt\r h . . . ! d l h r ! f t n l
L'L!.tru!trh.L6. rnr.o,l

I

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l

tf

L

$r b alft nishn,, bd. tor !nocL(.

. hnp'oq* r daigd v,hilr slanr a dd rftn ,nr[.d on Fpr

r|r hLr. oponrs rh. slrhA and

e'ni" (riis 7 r2) Li 'h. mdn da
ri. .nbroidcrynnd$ h€c \!r..

0orr'g1l'.trq'ju{rh{N Lhc squ{.d., }e r nno. andpnrdrc .abl. rh h,iqnr.h6. forrh.
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