Delicious - UK (February 2020)

NEW

SECTION SKILLS MASTERCLASS: PROPER CASSOULET PANCAKES STIR-FRIES
O
O




deliciousmagazine.co.uk














ON SALE 1-29 FEBRUARY £4.99
Cosy, warm & full of joy!








+ ITALIAN + +
HEALTHIER +

comfort food slow cooking


























































Blood orange
tart &
cardamom
cream










GOOD READS Rick Stein writes to his food hero + Is it okay to ignore use-by dates?

FOOD TO LOVE How to eat less meat without going veggie + Delia’s cider-braised bangers

IT TAKES AS LONG



AS IT TASTES




back to a golden era






















































































Clarence Court eggs are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating
from rare breed ancestors. It’s a heritage that gives them a unique flavour
evocative of a bygone era when all food was ‘slow food’. So our hens simply
won’t be rushed. Demand the best - look for the crown.




clarencecourt.co.uk

WELCOME TO
February











How do you view the second month of the
year? Do you see it as an endurance test, one step
closer to spring, a moment to celebrate the fact that
January is over? You may (or not, depending on your
point of view) be surprised to know there are a few

valiant, glass-half-full souls who consider February
the best month of the year – a month for celebrating
all that’s good about inside warmth, slouchy socks, marmalade-making,
cake-baking, film-watching and a general appreciation of all home can

offer. Need convincing? Turn to p32 for Kate Young’s perspective. Even
if you don’t agree, her viewpoint challenges perceptions about what so
many people see as a bleak month.
My view is that February needs an antidote of warming recipes: food to
make you smile, while nourishing body and soul. It also needs stories

that inform, pique your interest, make you chuckle, challenge you to
agree – or disagree vehemently. You’ve guessed it: there couldn’t be a
Follow Karen
better time to cosy on down with your favourite magazine. If you’d like
on Twitter
PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH
a steer towards which recipe to try first, my top choices are the 10-minute @deliciouseditor
and on Instagram
halloumi fries on p7, the cassoulet on p100 (you can’t get more warming @editorkarenb
than that) and, for a sweet treat, the simple biscuits on p63.
Often, the difference between okay and great cooking is nailing a few
This
key techniques, which is why we’ve created our new Masterclass section, PSmonth’s
starting on p99. During 2020 you can build a wealth of knowledge and subscription
offer is a
collect a set of recipes we hope you’ll see as invaluable. If there’s a dish you’d belter: half
like us to cover, please write to me at [email protected]. price for two
years of
This is your magazine and I love to hear from you.
delicious.
Here’s wishing you a great February, where the days are frosty and See p108
bright, the cooking is a joy and the eating is GOOD.











KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

122






















57 63 116






FEBRUARY 2020



C O NT E NTS
ON THE COVER








YOUR RECIPE INSPIRATION 82 TAKE A PACK Three ways with chicken thighs

84 FRIDAY NIGHT Watch an MGM classic with
7 IF YOU COOK ONE THING THIS MONTH...
good wine and a superior TV dinner
Make it oozy-melty halloumi fries
92 SLOW-COOKED TO (NOURISHING) PERFECTION
26 FROM ITALY WITH LOVE Crowdpleaser
Light, healthy stews? Oh, but yes...
recipes as good as a fleecy hug

38 GILL MELLER’S WINTER: ONIONS The
ingredient that adds magic to every dish READ ALL ABOUT IT
BLOOD ORANGE TART WITH 46 ROAST OF THE MONTH Whole bream and 8 YOUR delicious. What you’re cooking
CARDAMOM CREAM, P54 fennel make a one-pan masterpiece and debating, plus your online favourites
Recipe, food styling
& styling Louise Pickford 48 GATHER FRIENDS AND LIGHT THE FIRE A cosy 11 THE BEST OF FEBRUARY The latest news and
Photograph Ian Wallace
menu to keep winter’s chill at bay tidbits from the world of food

57 BREAKFAST WITH HEART Treat your 15 THE INTERVIEW Celebrated chef Claude Bosi
loved one on Valentine’s Day
16 WHAT MAKES A GOOD RESTAURANT? Debora
60 A 1970s CLASSIC Delia’s sausage Robertson lays out her must-haves
d. MEAL 63 THE EASY BAKE Salted chocolate and 19 MAKING A DIFFERENCE The chef whose
casserole has stood the test of time
PLANNER
restaurant has no bin
pretzel cookies. Yum 21 EDITOR’S CHOICE Beautiful and useful
SIGN UP TODAY things for the discerning cook
64 THE PUDS EVERYONE LOVES The oven does
VISIT mealplanner. the work for these self-saucing delights 25 HOT ON THE SHELVES The latest best buys
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 73 MORE VEG, LESS MEAT How to eat healthier 32 WHY I LOVE FEBRUARY Kate Young stands
midweek meals without even noticing up for chilly days and warm kitchens

THE
delicious.

PROMISE



RECIPES THAT WORK Every
34 recipe is rigorously tested
by our food team, using
domestic ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.

INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
Fresh eggs for our test
kitchen are supplied by
Clarence Court
clarencecourt.co.uk and
38 48 meat is from The Ginger
Pig thegingerpig.co.uk

HONEST COOKING TIMES
All our timings include
prep. Hands-on time is
when you’re chopping,
stirring or frying. Oven/
34 LETTER TO MY FOOD HERO Rick Stein salutes simmering time is when
you can leave the dish in
seafood expert Jane Grigson the oven or on the hob.

58 THE SENSE (AND NONSENSE) OF FOOD LABELLING OUR SYMBOLS EXPLAINED

Has the idea of use-by dates gone stale? Gluten-free recipe
Dairy-free recipe
71 WHAT TO DRINK What’s tasting good right
delicious. ✪ Find more ideas for
now, plus excellent value Valentine’s fizz using this ingredient on
MASTERCLASS
our Loose Ends page.
88 HEALTH DEBRIEF The latest news and views Tricks, skills and know-how to help
you become a better cook Indicates you can freeze
90 BEHIND THE HEADLINES Vitamin D: should we all or most of the recipe.
NAIL THE CLASSICS Unless stated, freeze the
be taking supplements or not? LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES finished dish for up to
ENHANCE YOUR KNO WLEDGE 3 months. Defrost and
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER A food lover’s journey heat until piping hot.
to the windswept Faroe Islands
Indicates you’ll find
KNOW-
122 BITE-SIZE BREAK What to eat in Dubrovnik, PLUS! NEW HOW useful information
about the recipe.
Croatia’s medieval Mediterranean gem MASTERCLASS SECTION
You’ll find an option
MAKE
130 A GOOD RANT Flippin’ pancake kits! AHEAD to make part/all of
100 PERFECT A CLASSIC The secrets the recipe ahead.

OTHER GOOD THINGS of a proper French cassoulet NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
102 GOLDEN RULES Brush up on your Recipes are analysed for
nutritional content by an
10 COOK IT LIKE DELICIOUS ...and win quality pans pancake skills for Shrove Tuesday expert nutritionist. They’re

14 WIN! A gourmet stay at The Woburn Hotel 105 LEARN TO COOK THAI All about calculated with precision
but may vary, depending
stir-frying (make sure you’ve
108 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Get two years of your on the ingredients used.
seasoned your wok) Calculations include only
favourite magazine for half price listed ingredients.
110 THE KNOWLEDGE Learn new tricks,
115 CUPPA TIME Puzzles for food lovers find clever uses for leftovers and PRICES are correct at
time of going to press.
124 COMING NEXT MONTH enhance your culinary nous
126 RECIPE INDEX


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5



instant joy.






IF YOU COOK





ONE THING





THIS MONTHÉ







This dish is ready in 10 minutes – and will be gone in seconds


RECIPE JEN BEDLOE FOOD STYLING & STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH
PHOTOGRAPH KATE WHITAKER




Halloumi fries
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN

Cut 250g halloumi into fingers, drizzle with
a little sunflower oil, then toss in a bowl with
4 tbsp polenta combined with 1 tsp za’atar spice
mix until well coated. Heat 2cm sunflower oil in
a medium heavy-based saucepan. When hot, shallow
fry the halloumi pieces until the polenta turns crisp
and the cheese becomes soft and oozy, turning when
one side is golden. Serve with a drizzle of greek yogurt
and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and chopped fresh
coriander, with sweet chilli sauce on the side for dipping.
PER SERVING 327kcals, 23.8g fat (11.4g saturated), 16.2g
protein, 11.7g carbs (1g sugars), 1.9g salt, 0.8g fibre



















































deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7

YOUR













Dining room matttt s

Debora Robertson’s piece on the decline of the
dining room [Jan, p20] sparked conversation


STAR EMAIL
FROM: MARK RIGBY
Debora’s article was timely: my wife and I are
having this very debate. Do we extend the
kitchen into a kitchen/diner or keep our dining
room? We did a ‘pros and cons’ list. Pros: no
cooking smells while eating, a special-occasion
ambience, you can close the door after a dinner
and worry about the mess later. Cons: chef (me)
isolated from guests while cooking, the dining
room could become an office and so on.
The clincher, though, is that we prefer
informal relaxed suppers, with friends feeling
part of the cooking experience – not sitting kitchen. It’s small but has the advantage of
waiting in another room to be served. In 2020 allowing someone to reach for another bottle of
we’ve decided to relax more. Life is too short to wine or open the cutlery drawer without leaving
be formal in your own home. We’ll still eat their seat. It’s warmer too. As for that sense
around a table, but in the heart of the house: the of occasion, we can put a clean tablecloth on!




WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING... USELESS GADGETS
FROM: TINA MCDONALD

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Oh, how I agree with Andrew Webb’s
@hitchinfoodie suggestion to rid ourselves of kitchen clutter
Wild mushroom and [Jan, p130]. I have a dinky guillotine that slices
madeira stew
hard-boiled eggs. Takes seconds – and then a
good five minutes to wash up. The battery-
@chilliandmint
Ensenada fish tacos operated stirring spoon totters about like a *A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P126.
drunken dancer in a tutu and then falls over, PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY, GARETH MORGANS, TOBY SCOTT,
@sliceofsunny splattering sauce all over the hob. But the
Moroccan-spicedlambshoulder biggest waste of space has to be the electric
soup maker – a soup maker is surely someone
@leonie.1149 who just chops up vegetables and puts them
Lamb one-pot with herby
dumplings in a pan with some stock. Simple as! ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Andrew is right: empty your drawers and
just get a good knife!




WAYS TO HAVE YOUR SAY… Join our new reader panel and have more
of a say in your favourite magazine. From time to time, we’ll email you to ask you to take
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O SIGN UP AT deliciousmagazine.co.uk/readerpanel O EMAIL US at [email protected]
O WRITE TO US by post at delicious. magazine, Eye to Eye Media Ltd, Axe & Bottle Court,
70 Newcomen Street, London SE1 1YT

feedback.






FROM: CHRISTINE WILKINS WHAT YOU’VE
Debora’s article brought back BEEN LOVING ON
many childhood memories. We
always ate at the table but once a OUR SOCIAL MEDIA
week, on Mum’s shopping day, CHANNELS
we were permitted to watch TV
while we ate. You could tell which h THE MOST POPULAR RECIPE
day of the week it was by the ON DELICIOUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK
evening meal, and that day we IN FEBRUARY 2019
ate, without fail, pasty, chips and Moroccan lamb tagine...
HP Sauce. And we watched What do you think it will
Ready, Steady, Go with Cathy be this year?
McGowan. We also had to ask
permission to leave the table. 15,382 views
We were Londoners who moved
out to one of the ‘new towns’ to
get a council house. My parents
are now in their 90s and still set
the table with condiments and a ULAR ON INSTAGRAM i
cloth. It was considered ‘common’ o ast chicken thighs
to leave the table set between w ith new potatoes
meals. Sunday tea was when the and greens
bone china tea set came out. To
this day I feel guilty if I don’t use 3,773 likes
a plate or if I eat on the hoof
(eating in the street was a sin
back then). What do the older
generation make of today’s street
food, when in their day they even
took fish and chips home to eat?






SUBJECT: PROPER THAI CURRY
FROM: CATRINA PORCELLI h TOP ON PINTEREST
I was pleased to see my favourite curry Rhubarb and vanilla
on last month’s cover. I remember sponge pudding
eating my first Thai green curry in
a small south London restaurant 8,499 pins
28 years ago. I’d never tasted anything
like it. It was so vibrant and spicy – the
flavour was incredible. See what other Follow us at instagram.
I’ve been searching for that flavour delicious. fans are com/deliciousmag
ever since. Most green curries are too talking about at facebook.com/
sweet, which seems to suit the British deliciousmagazineuk
palate, so I was pleased Kay’s recipe has
no palm sugar. It was fantastic – and Follow us at twitter.com/ Follow us on pinterest.
deliciousmag
took me right back to that little café. co.uk/deliciousmaguk



+

STAR EMAIL PRIZE * PS LOOKING FOR DECEMBER’S

Our star email this month wins a £75 CRYPTIC SOLUTION?
voucher from wine specialist Majestic. Find it on our new puzzle page,
They live and breathe wine, and are Cuppa Time, on p115
passionate about selling good wines,
spirits and beers. majestic.co.uk


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10 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

in the know.





T H E B E S T O F





February






WHAT’S FRESH, HOT AND HAPPENING RIGHT NOW

















































PHOTOGRAPHS: PINK LADY APPLES, ENGLISH HERITAGE. *ENTRANTS MUST BE AVAILABLE ON TUESDAY 16 JUNE FOR











CALLING ASPIRING

young food writers
A SPECIAL PRESENTATION TEA PARTY AT RHS LINDLEY HALL, LONDON SW1

Do you know a young person yearning to
be the next Nigel or Nigella? If so, let them
know about the Young Food Writer of the Year
Competition. Established in 2008, it’s the only
national food writing competition for young
people, with three age groups: 10 and under,
11-14 years and 15-18 years (and one winner
per group). The theme for this year’s
competition is ‘food and heroes’, and delicious.
editor Karen Barnes will be among the judges.
TOP IN 2019, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR RIGHT Noah Eyre, winner The competition opens 8 February and closes
11-14; Henry de Bono, runner-up 10 and under; Ed Pollard, 30 April. Winners will be announced in June.
runner-up 10 and under; Charlotte Fletcher, runner-up 11-14;
Alice Haywood, runner-up 11-14; Emma David, runner up 15-18; For more information and details of how to enter,
judges Lisa Faulkner, Sherry Ainsworth and Stefan Gates visit gfw.co.uk/competitions* →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11

THE MONTH garden-facing learning kitchen. Coming this spring:

COOKERY COURSES
WITH A DIFFERENCE

The Garden Museum in Lambeth, south London,
offers ingredient-focused food masterclasses in its




8 MARCH Food writer Kathy Slack covers the
fundamentals of growing your own food – whether
you have a plot of land or a window box.
OF Bistro Lotte 5 APRIL Food historian Sam Bilton goes back in time
Frome, Somerset;
with stories and Easter baking recipes, including hot
bistrolottefrome.co.uk
WHERE This dapper bistro with rooms cross buns, Italian Easter pie and fig cake.
RESTAURANT
on one of the pretty town’s narrow 3 MAY Explore unusual Bangladeshi vegetables
streets has been warmly embraced locally. and try gajor galwa, a spiced carrot pudding, with
WHO Friendly owner Charlotte (Lotte) Evans and chef and food writer Dina Begum.
her team bring a true taste of France to Somerset.
7 JUNE Learn about ingredients from Mauritius
THE SETTING Lotte’s, as it’s known, is in a gorgeous
and the Indian Ocean islands with chef
building: an Edwardian house long since converted
Selina Periampillai, while making aubergine
into commercial premises with the beautiful
chickpea cari, roti and creole tomato sauce.
original signage (for Grocery & Provision Stores)
Half-day courses, £85; gardenmuseum.org.uk
intact. Ornate tiles, stained glass, enamel lamps
and bentwood chairs add to the Gallic mood.
THE DISHES Lunch ushers in croque monsieur or
galettes, while dinner might start with a textbook Learn about
Bangladeshi
In association with The Good Food Guide
French onion soup topped with a melting gruyère
produce with
croûton. A main course of gigot of lamb in a tarragon Dina Begum
and red wine jus, and desserts of profiteroles
or French apple tart continue the theme. Low-
intervention wines are available by the carafe.
PRICE About £29 for a three-course dinner,
excluding drinks.
VERDICT The kind of authentic, welcoming bistro
we all want on our doorstep.


Buy The Good Food Guide 2020 (£17.99) in Waitrose,
at thegoodfoodguide.co.uk and in all good bookshops







Menu of the month
A SPICE-LADEN FEAST TO FIGHT OFF THE COLD
Did you know…?
In Iceland, Husband’s

Day (Bóndadagur) is
celebrated on 25
January and Wife’s Day
(Konudagur) on 24

February. Both are
marked in a similar way
to Valentine’s Day, with
Gill Meller’s onion bhajis Ross Dobson’s fragrant lamb Poached rhubarb and orange respective partners
with yogurt and goat’s and orzo casserole, made pudding, served with giving gifts and cooking
cheese dip, p43 in the slow cooker, p94 coconut yogurt, p69 for each other.

in the know.







IN THIS MONTH...
Causing a stir: plant-based ‘milk’



‘Moo-less’ milk is on the rise, according to Mintel, with
almost a quarter of Brits now buying cow’s milk alternatives.
The chart below shows how our tastes have risen and fallen. Queen Mary 1 of
Despite their growing popularity, plant ‘milks’ accounted England was born.
for just four per cent of sales by volume of milk in 2018*. She reigned from
*SOURCE: MINTEL.COM. FIGURES SHOWN ARE CHANGES IN UK BY-VOLUME SALES BETWEEN 2016 AND 2018.
1553 to her death
COW’S MILK FIGURE INCLUDES CONVENTIONAL, FILTERED, ORGANIC AND REDUCED LACTOSE VARIETIES
COCONUT in 1558, during
MILK UP SOYA MILK UP which time she had
16% ALMOND hundreds of Protestant dissenters

OAT MILK UP MILK UP 3% burned at the stake, earning her the
nickname Bloody Mary. The same
71% 10% name was later used for a cocktail.



1709






Scottish sailor Alexander Selkirk was
rescued from an uninhabited island
in the South Pacific. He was marooned

COW’S following a fight with his captain, and
MILK DOWN inspired Daniel Defoe’s novel Robinson
Crusoe – the tale of an adventurer
2.6% stranded on a desert island who

lived on goat, grapes and turtle eggs.










HOT NEW COOKBOOK Paul Bocuse w
Collonges-au-
REBEL RECIPES France. The le
Vegan cookbooks have been huge hits chef became on
in recent years, and Rebel Recipes, the founders of nouvel
debut from food blogger Niki Webster, is cuisine – and the Bo
easily one of our favourites. The food NEWSFLASH! d’Or chef championsh
PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: J C CAMDAMEDO, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
is bright and vibrant (helped along by Real Bread Week returns this named after him has bec
Kris Kirkham’s photographs), and the year from 22 February to one of the world’s most prestigious.
recipes are creative and generous. 1 March, championing the
Bloomsbury Absolute £26 importance of independent
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE STONE, SUSAN LOW.
artisan bakeries and additive 1963
free bread, plus the social and

therapeutic benefits of baking.
The first episode of Julia Child’s
Look out for the campaign’s The French Chef aired, in which
Loaf Mark when shopping the American cook made boeuf
(indicating bread is made without bourguignon live on TV. Her big
processing aids or artificial break came while promoting her
ingredients) and find classes cookbook on a TV station, when
and bready activities near you instead of answering questions
at sustainweb.org/realbread/ seated, she did so while making
events an omelette… Viewers loved it. →


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13

in the know.

















International Women’s Day, 8 March


THREE WAYS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ACHIEVEMENTS OF WOMEN IN THE FOOD WORLD Stuffed bacon cheese jackets
Æ EAT restaurant Honey & Co (plus a shop, three

cookbooks and a grill restaurant) talk to an
Chef Alexis Noble aims to change
THE WEB-
the conversation around women in
all-female line-up of industry figures about
EXCLUSIVE
the hospitality industry, celebrating their their life in food, including chef Romy Gill,
RECIPE
successes and the exciting variety of roles. journalist and presenter of BBC Radio 4’s
These snack-size
She’s hosting a series of collaborative women- The Food Programme Sheila Dillon and
winter classics are
led dinners at her London restaurant, Wander, restaurant critic Fay Maschler.
each combining the talents of a different chef, sofa-supper friendly
front-of-house expert and wine producer. READ and packed with
Wander Women Dinner Series, 4-8 March, £40 US journalist and food writer two of life’s finest
Charlotte Druckman’s anthology
(£70 with paired drinks); wanderrestaurant.com Women on Food (Abrams Press £21.99) features ingredients: bacon
and cheese.
LISTEN pithy Q&As, interviews and essays by talent Pure spud heaven.

Find the recipe at
including Brits Nigella Lawson, Ruby Tandoh
In Who Run The World?, the new
series of Sarit Packer and Itamar and Diana Henry. The focus is on US voices, deliciousmagazine. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST
Srulovich’s popular podcast Honey & Co: The but that makes it no less compelling: this co.uk
Food Talks, the couple behind Middle Eastern compilation is frank and engrossing reading.








WIN! A GOURMET





ESCAPE FOR TWO WORTH
OVER
£1,000


Enjoy the royal treatment with a quality local produce.
stay at AA four-star The Woburn And the feasting doesn’t stop
Hotel, located on Bedfordshire’s there. On your second evening, you’ll
You’ll dine at Woburn Abbey Estate, the home of get to experience a memorable
Paris House the Duke and Duchess of Bedford. culinary journey at Paris House, the
(above) as well
as Olivier’s (right) Our winner and guest will enjoy award-winning three AA Rosette
two nights in a luxurious cottage restaurant on the estate, with CLOSING DATE: 29 FEBRUARY 2020. *BASED ON TWO SHARING A DOUBLE/TWIN ROOM BEFORE 1JUNE 2020. SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY; SOME EXCLUSIONS AND SUPPLEMENTS APPLY. **ENTRY TO WOBURN SAFARI PARK AND GOLF CLUB ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRIZE.
suite, with a chilled bottle of chef-owner Phil Fanning’s eight-
champagne on arrival and a full course modern British tasting menu.
English breakfast each morning. During the day, you’ll have time
On one evening you’ll enjoy a to explore the stunning deer park
four-course dinner in The Woburn or take advantage of reduced-rate
Hotel’s two AA Rosette restaurant, tickets to visit Woburn Safari Park
Olivier’s, where executive chef – alternatively, book a round of golf GOLF MUST BE BOOKED IN ADVANCE (RESTRICTIONS APPLY)
SAVE 15% on The Woburn Hotel’s two-night Foodie Olivier Bertho pulls inspiration at one of Woburn Golf Club’s
Break package (£340, normally £425pp), including from classic French and British championship courses**.
dinner at Olivier’s and a fine restaurant in Woburn cuisines to create dishes with thewoburnhotel.co.uk
Village*. To book, please call 01525 290441 or
email [email protected] quoting DM19.
• FOR FULL Ts&Cs AND TO ENTER, VISIT DELICIOUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK/PROMOTIONS



14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

people.







THE INTERVIEW: CLAUDE BOSI



“I DON’T TAKE





SUCCESS






FOR GRANTED”






Phoebe Stone finds out what drew the French chef

to cooking despite an early disaster in the kitchen




e’s the chef of the two- on the young, ambitious chef.
Michelin-star London “All the seasons have a favourite
institution Bibendum, but ingredient. It’s hard to pick one –
Claude Bosi’s kitchen debut but English asparagus and peas are
H was far from successful. some of my favourites.” Travel also
“The first dish I tried to cook was a fuels his creativity, but Bosi is frank
fried egg – I was 12,” he recalls. “The about the dominance of his culinary I loved the teamwork of the
pan caught fire, so I threw water roots. “I’m French – you can’t take kitchen – the way it’s a family that
on it – that’s when I learned: oil that away,” he says. “My food is
and water do not go well together! based on a French foundation – looks after one another
I nearly burned the kitchen down.” classic dishes with a modern touch.”
Growing up in Lyon, where his Bosi opened Hibiscus in Ludlow, and his wife Lucy have a young son.
Italian parents ran a bistro, Bosi Shropshire, in 2000, which won two “I love going for a walk with him or
recalls how lucky he was to be able Michelin stars, then relocated the playing football – spending quality
to nip home from school for the plat restaurant to London in 2007 – time with family is important to me.”
du jour. “Mum made fantastic regaining its stars – before taking A good work/life balance is hard
dishes, such as quenelles de brochet the wheel at Bibendum in 2016. – Michelin stars bring prestige but
(pike dumplings),” he reminisces. Launched by Sir Terence Conran they also bring pressure: “I don’t
With such a food-focused in the late 1980s with Simon take success for granted,” says Bosi.
upbringing Bosi’s path to chefdom Hopkinson in the kitchen, the “You have to realise every day is a
seems unsurprising, but he says it restaurant in the art deco Michelin new day, what happened the day
took a stint in a brasserie early in Tyre Company building quickly before is the day before, and today
his career to seal the deal. “I loved became the place to be. It has finally is a new customer. That’s what
the teamwork of the kitchen – it was been awarded two Michelin stars. I love about the restaurant life.”
a family that would look after and Bosi’s hectic schedule means Claude Bosi at Bibendum is in London’s
support each other. Apart from that, it’s rare for him to create culinary South Kensington; claudebosi.com
I loved creating something from raw fireworks at home. “When you cook
ingredients. And people coming to all week, you just want a quick bite
eat it: it’s such a privilege.” somewhere relaxed,” he explains.
Following a move to Paris in the Does he have a recommendation? WHAT’S YOUR...
1990s, Bosi worked under two chefs “Near Clapham in south London
who became his biggest inspirations: there’s a local bistro called Soif with GO-TO SNACK? of kit but we couldn’t
PORTRAIT: PATRICIA NIVEN taught Bosi how to run a first-class all about the tastes of home, though. DESERT ISLAND DISH? our kitchen porter!
a good wine list and cheese.” It’s not
function without Danny,
Mars Bar
first Alain Passard at L’Arpège, who
restaurant, then Alain Ducasse.
FAVOURITE MUSIC
“Sometimes it’s Chinese or Indian
Mash and caviar
BEST KITCHEN KIT
The latter’s commitment to buying
food: a different style of restaurant
WHILE COOKING? It
has to be James Brown
where you can be a bit challenged.”
Well, he’s not a piece
only the best produce at the best
time of year had an indelible effect
Family life is full-on, too, as Bosi
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15

What makes a







good restaurant?









There’s so much more to dining out than simply scoffing, paying the

bill and heading for the door. The places in which we seek company
and sustenance reflect what we value, as well as where our lives have

taken us and where we’re heading. And, says Debora Robertson,
if you can see and hear while you’re tucking in, even better





estaurants have been the Quaglino’s and the Atlantic Bar to from life. None of these is constant.
canvas on which I have Hakkasan, Zuma and The Wolseley. All reflect the arc that you’ve
R painted the most important Glittering pleasure domes, all. travelled, the peace that you have
scenes of my life – from falling in or haven’t made. When I was 34,
and out of love to job interviews, DINING OF A MORE MATURE NATURE? I wanted bling, because it persuaded
forging friendships, playing over Today, in my 50s, I walk round me that I was special. When I was
family dramas, exchanging the corner to Testi (calm down, 44, I wanted blinis, because they
scandals and deciding who will live it means jug), our local Turkish made me feel sophisticated. At 54,
and who will die (oh, sorry, that restaurant, for kebabs and I just want martinis, because I’m
was an episode of The Sopranos). grilled onion salad, or to Wolf, a certain of what’s in them and of
When I was in my early 20s, neighbourhood Italian, for a plate what that potion can do: blunt the
consuming platters of oysters amid of charcuterie and some pappardelle. day and polish the night.”
the clatter of Les Deux Magots in Or we hop in the car and head to Blunt the day and polish the night.
Paris, or devouring Sunday morning Xi’an Impression, a tiny Chinese How perfect is that? It’s not only
eggs benedict on the Upper West restaurant in the shadow of Arsenal what I want in a cocktail, but also the
Side of New York, restaurants stadium, a place where the waiter prime job requirement for a husband.
opened up the world to me. reminds us to keep the receipt so he Having spent my 20s trying the
As newlyweds in London, my latest, the most recherché, the
husband and I often went to a little I want someone to coolest, now I have no interest in
bistro in the heart of Marylebone show-off places. I don’t want to
that he’d gone to since he was a take my coat, find me queue. I want someone to take my
boy. We’d turn up, Bruno the owner a seat and fix me a coat, find me a seat and fix me a
would hug us and find us a corner. drink within five minutes of arrival,
We moved. He retired. It closed. drink within five just as I would if you came to my
You never know when it’s the last minutes of arrival house. I want to be enveloped in
time you’ll go to a place. But in that the warm embrace of a well-run
year after we married, the Bistro du can make sure we have something restaurant, enjoy its dazzle, and the
Village, with its coq au vin and different next time, even though delicious sense of possibility. For me,
crème brûlée, was as important to we always order the biang biang Noble Rot in Bloomsbury epitomises
me as our little kitchen full of newly noodles and smacked cucumbers. all of that; it is a masterclass in
unwrapped Le Creuset and Spode. In a piece last year in The New Perfect Neighbourhood Restaurant.
If I wasn’t in the bistro, I was York Times, columnist Frank Bruni,
traipsing to the newest places, the paper’s one-time restaurant SOUND AND FURY? NO THANKS
enjoying everything the Nineties critic, wrote: “What you want from I hate loud music, its effects jarringly
and early Noughties London restaurants, it turns out, is a proxy amplified by the modern aesthetic
restaurant boom had to offer, from for what you want from love and of hard floors and walls. Professor

food for thought.































































































Charles Spence, an experimental restaurants. It deters all but the most alone? Are you in the middle of an
psychologist at Oxford University, pathological of Instagrammers, and anecdote? A divorce? They know.
there’s something bonding about
Naturally, in a restaurant I want
claims loud music suppresses the
ILLUSTRATION: SAUL HERRERA/GETTY IMAGES you! It could be the world’s best read the menu, as though we’re all to leave happier than when I arrived.
everyone getting out their phones to
to be fed, but more than that, I want
ability to taste. Yes, professor, thank
meal, but I’d hardly notice. I know
I want to hand over the reins of
trying to earn our Brownies badge.
Of course, the most important
places play loud music to keep trade
responsibility for my life for a few
hours. I want to feel welcome,
element of any restaurant is its staff.
brisk, but in my case it’s so brisk I’m
cosseted, adored (ok, you can dial it
The best have a peripheral vision and
in and back out the door in a second.
an almost supernatural ability to
back on that last one). Do that and,
After noise comes light or,
preferably, a lack of it. I enjoy the
in the words of Randy Newman,
sense need. Do you require glasses
topping up? A chat? To be left
crepuscular gloom of some modern
you’ve got a friend in me.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17



making a difference.




































Doug McMaster has pioneered sustainable dining in upcycled surroundings, with menus that change according to available ingredients

Meet the man who runs





a restaurant without a bin






Chef and restaurateur Doug McMaster has blazed a trail for the zero-waste movement. His
restaurant, Silo, has an innovative and inspiring approach to food, farming and fermentation



e may not be a household name the pail, is used to churn butter and make waste I’ve seen is criminal,” says Doug.
– yet – but Doug McMaster has yogurt – cheaper than buying the finished “But with imagination and intelligence we
Hbeen instrumental in getting products. Flour is milled on-site and can turn it into a precious end product.”
across the zero-waste message, inspiring bread baked in-house. The daily menu The United Nations is calling on the
esteemed chefs such as Dan Barber of Blue is projected onto the wall (no paper) industry to halve food waste per capita by
Hill at Stone Barns in New York State and and changes are made in real time as 2030, and WRAP says achieving this goal
Christian Puglisi of Relæ in Copenhagen. ingredients run out. “It’s an evolving, would deliver an annual reduction in UK
Disrupting restaurant norms is breathing, living menu,” Doug explains. farm-to-fork food waste of 3.5 million
McMaster’s stock in trade. And the food? “It’s true to the supply chain and the tonnes, saving £10 billion of food a year. It
Dishes such as shiitake mushrooms with hasn’t been easy but, encouragingly, Doug
dumplings and mustard taste as good as With imagination, says the ideals he’s been seeking – such as
they sound – and they look beautiful, too. we can turn waste into sourcing produce without packaging and
Back in 2012, Doug, who’s worked at a precious product direct delivery – are becoming less of
St John and The Fat Duck, was challenged a challenge. “To be able to cook and serve
WORDS: LAURA DAY. PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE LEWINGTON, MATT RUSSELL
to run a pop-up restaurant without a bin. reality of what’s come from the ground food the same day it’s picked is amazing.
While making shortbread, he realised he’d that day.” Everything is used: they make We’re a drop in the ocean, but hopefully
need to source the raw, unpackaged miso from potato skins, and vegetable we contributed to that shift.”
ingredients directly from farmers. “It was treacle (which Doug says tastes like hoisin
the most delicious shortbread I’ve ever sauce) from veg trimmings. The restaurant TRY IT FOR YOURSELF
eaten,” says Doug. Two years later, he weighs everything and uses a formula Silo (silolondon.com) is open for dinner
opened Silo in Brighton with the same for serving sizes. Any food scrapings are from Tuesday to Sunday, with a brunch
zero-waste ethos. sent for composting at a supplier farm. menu at weekends. For any restaurant
The restaurant, which moved to Hackney “Waste is a failure of the imagination, keen to explore direct supply chains,
in east London in 2019, works directly because we haven’t had enough vision and Doug uses and recommends the
with its suppliers. Food is delivered in creativity to find a solution,” asserts Doug. Foodchain app (joinfoodchain.com),
glass or paper packaging and the furniture According to the government’s Waste and which connects chefs with producers.
is made from recycled materials. This Resources Action Programme (WRAP), To find out more about Doug’s philosophy,
sourcing method makes financial as well £3 billion in food is thrown away yearly read his book, Silo: The Zero Waste
as environmental sense. Milk, bought by by the food service industry. “Some of the Blueprint (Leaping Hare Press £20).


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 19



wish list.


E D I T O R ’ S C H O I C E











Welcome to my new selection
of favourites: places to eat,

books to read, gorgeous items
to consider adding to your

own personal wish list
all tested or tasted by us




COOK’S KIT: TESTED
We’ve been putting the leather aprons
made by Witloft through their paces in
our development kitchen.
THE UPSIDE These are aprons to last a
lifetime – durable and beautifully made.
THE DOWNSIDE They’re a bit heavy/
bulky and take a while to soften up,
but the company has just launched a
lighter, smaller version that’s more
immediately wearable, especially if
you have a small frame. Look out for
the knife rolls and leather kit, too.

Witloft Comfort apron, £139.95, witloft.com























































Turn the page for the rest of this month’s choices →


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 21

Just one (large) square

allowed to melt slowly on your
tongue… That’s all you need to

savour Firetree chocolate. Each

type of bar comes from a single

MEET THE CRAFTER farm on volcanic islands in the
South Pacific, with the farmers
Jemma Taylor of Old Man &
Magpie makes evocatively paid above the market rate.
scented soy candles. She lives There are even tasting notes:
with her partner, furniture maker it’s chocolate-nerd heaven.
Garry (the ‘old man’), and her
£7 for a 65g bar; £40 for a tasting set of seven;
daughter Esme (nicknamed
firetreechocolate.com
Magpie) in Manchester.

HOW IT ALL BEGAN Originally I was a clothing
delicious. designer, but I went on a candle-making course
STAR and started experimenting with scents such as

cedarwood and juniper. Initially I made candles in THE DRINK I’M
the evening, but when I put the first batch on Etsy they sold well, DRINKING
so a year ago I took the big step of handing in my notice.
Did you do dry January? I have
MY INSPIRATION When I was working, Garry was doing a lot of
to say I didn’t. Half-dry February
the childcare along with his own business, and it was a struggle.
is my goal (don’t judge me), but
Now my work fits in well with our family. Our house has an
the early months of the year
amazing scent all the time. In the early days, I’d come home
need warmth and good cheer, in
from work and pour lavender and cedar-scented wax just before
my opinion, and Crabbie’s
bed – it was relaxing and therapeutic. Soy candles burn cleanly,
Mulled Ginger Wine is a good
which is important as we want our candles to be as natural as PHOTOGRAPH OF 26 GRAINS: LANGLEY. PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS
way to get it. Definitely not just
possible. I have a creative passion, and now I’m channelling it in
for Christmas, it’s a blend
a different way. I design the branding and style the photos, too.
of red wine, ginger wine
WARM & COSY People want to hunker down in winter, and
and spices. Serve at room
I like to have candles in every room – they set the mood and
temperature or heat gently
create a sense of home. I light a candle when Garry comes home
for a mugful of comfort
from work and when Esme gets in from school.
on a cold and frosty night.
Candles from £9, oldmanandmagpie.com
£6.49 for 70cl,
drinksdirect.co.uk

wish list.















Best buy

It’s a fine moment

when I find kitchen

kit that’s fantastic

quality at a great
price. These

sizeable boards are

made from acacia
wood and stone:

super-smooth and

weighty. Use for

chopping or for
serving nibbles, or

just prop up, stand
THE MEAL I LOVED MOST

I’m loving 26 Grains, the new restaurant on Stoney Street, just a hop, step back and admire.
and a jump from our office and right next to London’s Borough Market. Nordic Spring boards, £18.50
This is the second site founded by Alex Hely-Hutchinson (the first is in round, £16.50 rectangle, both
Neal’s Yard), Henrietta Inman is the head chef and the restaurant is a sainsburys.co.uk
hidey-hole of wood-panelled cosiness. So far, so stylish – but what about
the food? The menu is small and unusual, with three or four choices per
course (a good sign). On my first visit I had a memorable galette – a disc
of crisp, nutty pastry topped with a froth of perfectly dressed leaves,
nuggets of blue cheese, apple, roasted squash and fudgy-in-the-middle
egg. Second visit in the evening: twinkly and warm, dishes of house pickles
with dukkah, crème fraîche and excellent bread, perfectly cooked sea bass
with a spiky-citrussy dressing and a quince tart to seal the deal. Breakfasts
are good, too. Go. But do book ahead.
Open Monday to Saturday, 8am to 10pm; 26grains.com








THE BOOK
I’M READING

Did you know it’s predicted that
plastic will outweigh fish in our
oceans by 2050? If you’re keen to
play your part in the bid for change,
How to Save the World for Free
by Natalie Fee (Laurence King
Publishing £12.99) is good for
dipping in and out of. It’s full
of advice covering all areas of life,
from food, shopping and home life
to travel, clothing and even sex. It’s
challenging – in a necessary way.


z ine.co.uk 23

NEW





’
brilliant broth












enjoy







restaurant ramen




at home





























































available exclusively in

in the know.





























SMART SHORTCUT CONDIMENT OF THE MONTH GLUTEN-FREE WINNER

Here’s an easy way to inject some Shrove Tuesday falls on 25 February Slim, dunkable biscuits in four
taste: flavoured butters from M&S’s this year and we recommend drizzling individual packs of four. Reminiscent
new Cook With range, which features your pancakes (see p102) with of a popular favourite (that contains
products designed to pep up midweek Billington’s single-origin Amber maple gluten), these are flavoured with good
meals. Stir truffle butter into fried syrup: it’s light, delicate and fragrant. old-fashioned golden syrup. Nairn’s
mushrooms; melt peppercorn butter Save the deep and intense Very Dark researched over 100 other sweet
or garlic, herb and shallot butter over maple syrup, also new, for cooking gluten-free biscuits, and these have
meat or fish; or just spread on good with. Each is produced by a small 45 per cent less sugar than average.
bread for a simple poshed-up starter. family farm in Québec. Nairn’s gluten-free Oaties,
£2 for 100g, Marks & Spencer £6.99 for 260g, Waitrose £1.30 for 160g, Waitrose, Morrisons



H O T O N T H E S H EL VE S






Every month, we’re sent d s of products try. We test them all, considering flavour,

value for money and ible, ethical credentials. Phoebe Stone picks the best




























NUT BUTTER WITH STAR SNACK
A DIFFERENCE
NE’S DAY TREAT Yumello founder Omar grew up in veg crisps (and cut down on waste).
A new slicing technique allows
PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS ripple interior tastes like frozen yogurt. one gives a toasty, caramel-like flavour. Tyrrells veg crisps with balsamic vinegar
Tyrrells to make their biggest ever
um’s latest is coated with ruby
chocolate, which is dusky pink with
the Atlas Mountains and his nut
butters, made without palm oil or
a tart, fruity taste – but no artificial
That’s extra surface area for the
new balsamic vinegar and sea salt
refined sugar, draw on recipes from
flavourings or colours (the production
flavour to sit on, and the result is
process is a trade secret). The white
that heritage. The combo of dates,
tongue-tinglingly sharp.
chocolate ice cream and raspberry
almonds and sweet coconut in this
£2 each; multipacks £3.69 for 3 or £3.89
Yumello smooth salted date almond
& sea salt, £2.49 for 125g, selected
for 6 minis, major retailers
butter, £4.65 for 230g, Ocado
Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25

SOMETHING FOR
EVERYONE
Pizza al taglio
















































































From Italy







with love







At a time of year when we could all do with a bit of

warmth, comfort and amore, these recipes will give
you a virtual fleecy hug. They’re easy to love, relatively

simple to make, and the taste? Mamma mia! →


26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

crowdpleasers.

































































RUSTIC FANTASTIC
Pork rib ragù
with tagliatelle

frothy. If you have a stand mixer, put month, is available from Ocado,
the flour and salt in the mixer bowl natoora.com and some farmers’
with the dough hook attached. Add markets and greengrocers. Or use
the yeast mixture and 200ml warm green chicory or other bitter greens.
water, then knead on medium speed
for 6 minutes or until smooth and • 35g plain four
elastic. (Alternatively, put the flour • 2 tsp sea salt flakes
and salt in a large bowl, add the yeast • Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
mixture and 200ml warm water, then another lemon
mix well with a wooden spoon. Once • 1.4kg free-range skin-on chicken
the dough comes together, knead on breasts/thighs or 1 whole boned
a lightly dusted surface for 10 chicken (ask your butcher to do it)
Pizza al taglio minutes until smooth and elastic.) • 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl • 1 garlic bulb, halved
OVEN TIME 20 MIN, PLUS PROVING (see Make Ahead). • 20g unsalted butter
2 Cover the dough with a clean tea • 3 tbsp capers in vinegar, drained
Make the dough to the end of towel and put in a warm place to • Small handful flatleaf parsley,
MAKE
AHEAD step 1, then cover and chill prove for 1½ hours or until doubled finely chopped
overnight or for up to 24 in size. • 2 bunches puntarelle (see tip)
hours. Bring to room temperature 3 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
before continuing from step 3. gas 7. Knock back the dough (push YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
This pizza has a thick base the air out of it) with a few gentle • Large ovenproof pan
FOOD
TEAM’S – if you prefer it thinner, kneads, then put in the greased
TIP
halve the yeast and sugar. roasting tin. Use your hands to 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
press the dough evenly over the gas 7. Put the flour, salt and zest in a
FOR THE DOUGH base and into the corners. Set bowl, then add the chicken and coat.
• 2 x 7g sachets fast-action dried aside to prove for 30 minutes. 2 Heat 80ml of the oil in the pan over
yeast (see tip) 4 Drizzle 2 tbsp oil over the base, a medium-high heat. Add the chicken,
• 4 tsp caster sugar spread with the passata, then scatter skin-side down, and the garlic,
• 450g plain flour over the parmesan. Season. Layer cut-side down. Cook for 12 minutes
• 10g salt the artichokes over a third of the or until the chicken is golden. Flip
pizza, then arrange the anchovies in the chicken over and take the pan off
FOR THE TOPPINGS a crisscross pattern over them. Tear the heat. Quarter the zested and
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 slices of prosciutto over the middle whole lemons and add to the pan.
extra to grease and drizzle third of the pizza and arrange the 3 Transfer the pan to the oven. Cook
• 250ml tomato passata cooking mozzarella, salami and for 12-15 minutes or until the chicken
• 20g parmesan, finely grated chilli flakes on the final third. is cooked through (when the thickest
• 6 marinated artichoke halves, 5 Bake for 20 minutes or until the part is pierced with a skewer the
drained and torn into pieces base is golden. Top the middle juices will run clear). The cooking
• 6 anchovy fillets in oil, drained section with the remaining 3 slices time will vary depending on whether
• 6 slices prosciutto of prosciutto, then tear the buffalo you’re using breasts or thighs, so
• 35g cooking mozzarella, grated mozzarella and dot over the pizza. check carefully. Set the chicken
• 4-8 slices hot salami Scatter with basil, drizzle with a aside to rest and put the pan back
• ¼ tsp chilli flakes little more oil and slice to serve. on the hob over a low heat. Stir in
• 125g ball fresh mozzarella PER SERVING 495kcals, 17.2g fat the butter, capers, parsley and the
• Small handful fresh basil leaves (6.5g saturated), 18.1g protein, juice from the roasted lemons.
64g carbs (6.1g sugars), 3.3g salt, 4 Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… 5.8g fibre in a separate frying pan, then add
• 38cm x 28cm (at least 5cm deep) the puntarelle/bitter leaves with
roasting tin, greased with oil Lemon chicken with 4 tsp water. Cook until wilted.
bitter greens 5 Slice the chicken, drizzle with the

USEFUL TO HAVE… SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, pan sauce and serve with the greens
• Stand mixer with a dough hook OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN and roasted garlic (see Make Ahead).
PER SERVING 640kcals, 34.1g fat
1 For the dough, put the yeast, sugar Puntarelle, an Italian (8.5g saturated), 71.1g protein,
FOOD
and 125ml warm water in a bowl and TEAM’S variety of chicory that’s in 10.7g carbs (1.8g sugars), 3.1g salt,
TIP
stir. Set aside for 5 minutes or until season until the end of this 2.9g fibre →

28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

crowdpleasers.




















A DISH WITH ZING
Lemon chicken
with bitter greens
























































































RECIPES PHOEBE WOOD
PHOTOGRAPHS BRETT STEVENS
FOOD STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Oven-baked meatballs 2 For the sauce, put the butter Once the ragù is cooked
MAKE
with polenta and and oil in a saucepan set over a AHEAD and cooled, put it in a
tomato sauce low heat. When the butter has freezerproof container,

SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, melted, add the onions and garlic cover and freeze for up to a
OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS RESTING and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes month. Defrost the ragù in the
or until the onions have softened. fridge overnight and reheat
Make the meatballs Add the tomato purée and cook, until piping hot to serve.
MAKE
AHEAD and sauce up to 2 days stirring, for 1 minute. Add the
ahead of time. Keep wine and increase the heat to • 2½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
covered and chilled separately medium. Simmer for 3 minutes • 1kg British free-range pork
in the fridge. or until reduced by half. Add the spare rib racks
tomatoes, stock and rosemary. • 2 onions, finely chopped
FOR THE MEATBALLS Taste and adjust the seasoning, • 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 70g breadcrumbs (made from then simmer for 20 minutes or • 2 tbsp fennel seeds, lightly
stale bread) until the sauce is slightly reduced crushed in a pestle and mortar
• 125ml milk (see Make Ahead). • 2 x 700ml jars tomato passata
• 1kg 10% fat British free-range 3 Heat the oven to 200°C/ • 500ml chicken stock
pork mince 180°C fan/gas 6. Sprinkle the • 750g fresh tagliatelle
• 160g parmesan, coarsely polenta evenly over the base of
grated the roasting tin, scatter over the 1 For the ragù, heat the oil in a
• ½ pack fresh thyme leaves remaining 60g parmesan, pour large saucepan (one with a lid)
over half the tomato sauce and over a medium-high heat.
FOR THE SAUCE stir to combine. Season the ribs with salt and a
• 100g butter, chopped 4 Arrange the meatballs on top grinding of pepper, add to the pan
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin of the polenta, then pour over the and brown for 5 minutes on each
olive oil remaining sauce, scatter with side. Remove the ribs from the
• 2 onions, finely chopped mozzarella and bake for 40 pan and set aside on a lipped
• 5 garlic cloves, crushed minutes or until the meatballs baking sheet or plate.
• 140g tomato purée are golden and cooked through 2 Add the onions, garlic and
• 185ml dry white wine and the sauce has thickened and fennel seeds to the pan and cook
• 400g tin cherry tomatoes reduced. Set aside to rest for for 5 minutes or until softened.
• 750ml chicken stock 10 minutes to allow the polenta Add the passata and stock, then
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, to soak up the sauce, then scatter return the ribs and any resting
leaves picked over the fresh oregano to serve. juices to the pan. Bring to the
PER SERVING 864kcals, 44.7g fat boil, reduce the heat to low and
FOR THE POLENTA (21.6g saturated), 65.9g protein, cover with a lid. Cook, stirring
• 170g instant polenta 41.7g carbs (10.9g sugars), 1.8g occasionally, for 3 hours or until
• 50g cooking mozzarella, salt, 4.4g fibre the ribs are tender. Remove the
grated lid and simmer for 30 minutes.
• Small handful fresh oregano Season, then pull the meat away
leaves to serve from the bones. Discard the
bones and any connective tissue
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… and return the meat to the sauce
• 31cm x 20cm x 7cm deep (see Make Ahead).
roasting tin 3 Cook the pasta according to the
pack instructions, drain well,
1 Put the breadcrumbs and milk then toss the pasta with the ragù
in a bowl and leave to soak for and serve.
5 minutes. Drain, squeezing out as PER SERVING (FOR 6) 671kcals,
much liquid as possible, then mix 17.7g fat (4.9g saturated), 37.5g
the crumbs in a bowl with the pork protein, 85.3g carbs (15.7g
mince, 100g of the parmesan and Pork rib ragù with sugars), 0.8g salt, 9.9g fibre
the thyme. Season with salt and tagliatelle
black pepper and mix well. Shape SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME
NEXT MONTH
into 12 large meatballs and chill 40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 3½ HOURS, Why we can’t get enough
until needed (see Make Ahead). PLUS RESTING of hot cross buns


30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

crowdpleasers.



















LOVIN’ SPOONFULS
Oven-baked meatballs
with polenta and
tomato sauce

Why I LOVE









February










If you asked a dozen people to name their favourite month of the year, it would be a gentle

surprise if even one of them mentioned February. Yet according to Kate Young, this frostiest of
seasons has so much to offer – you just need time, calm and a warm kitchen to appreciate it




s I write, rain REASON 1: HIBERNATION oven. Outdoor projects can wait. In
is drumming February is tailormade for embracing winter, weekends are never more
A against the the idea of hunkering down and leaving appealing than when spent anticipating
windows, there’s a pot your house as little as possible. It’s for what will soon be pulled from the oven.
of tea being kept warm time spent with knees beneath blankets.
beneath a cosy on my It’s the anti-December. A zero-party REASON 3: A SENSE OF CALM
desk, and a potato is in season. It’s for catching up with After the inescapable intensity of the
the oven. Winter has comfortable, dependable friends festive season – the endless parties, the
begun in earnest and I am thrilled. But – ones I am happy to greet at the door bustling streets – the first months of the
while it’s in no way unorthodox to rejoice while dressed in cosy socks and a year serve as a recalibration of sorts; a
when November and December arrive jumper. In the same way, it’s a month chance to regroup and recover. In winter,
each year (twinkly lights! mulled wine! for comfortable, dependable recipes – my things move more slowly: a kettle takes
velvet dresses! festive films!), I often feel old favourites, dishes I know intimately longer to boil, the oven more time to heat
alone in my abiding love of those first cold and that don’t invite any experimentation: up, bread rises almost imperceptibly. After
months of the new year. buttery crumble that’s always perfectly frenetic December, when it feels like my
To romanticise February is, of course, crisp on top, and lasagne that I still make feet barely touch the ground, it’s just what
to speak of privilege – the privilege of the way my mum does. I need at home: a reason to move through
having a warm sitting room to cosy up in, my daily tasks with a little less haste.
of watching the rain fall from inside, of REASON 2: A WARM KITCHEN If, despite all this, February doesn’t
having plenty of food to put in the oven. Unlike in summer, when I actively avoid fill you with the same joy as it does me,
Even with all of this, there’s no denying turning on the oven, February is when spring is around the corner. The daffodils
the grey, wet days, the relative dearth of I value my kitchen the most. Its long will soon be in bloom, asparagus is mere
fresh fruit and vegetables, the gnawing nights are calling out for warmth, the weeks away, and the evenings are getting
guilt of abandoned resolutions. For many, kind my kitchen can provide by means longer day by day. In the meantime, find
the shortest month of the year is one to be of fish pies, steaming pots of mussels your cosiest socks, turn on the oven and PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMIE DREW, GETTY IMAGES
pushed through, rather than luxuriated in. and an abundance of mashed potato. make the most of the calm and quiet.
But in case you’re looking to be won over, At the weekend, there’s time for
there are reasons I happily anticipate the marmalade-making, cake-baking Kate Young is a food writer, blogger
arrival of February each year. and dishes that require hours in the and cookbook author.

food for thought.














5 WARM & COSY BOOKS TO COOK FROM IN FEBRUARY…


















THE KITCHEN DIARIES NOTHING FANCY: FROM THE OVEN TO SOLO: THE JOY OF THE LITTLE LIBRARY YEAR:
BY NIGEL SLATER UNFUSSY FOOD FOR THE TABLE: SIMPLE COOKING FOR ONE RECIPES AND READING TO
I’m always happy to be HAVING PEOPLE OVER DISHES THAT LOOK BY SIGNE JOHANSEN SUIT EACH SEASON
led by Nigel’s culinary BY ALISON ROMAN AFTER THEMSELVES Great meals for BY KATE YOUNG
suggestions, The perfect mantra BY DIANA HENRY when you’re luxuriating February ideas
particularly in winter: for February. Food Inspiring and practical in your own company, include Narnia-
his writing offers for feeding a group, – my copy is littered from the author of inspired suppers and
literal warmth. without faff. with sticky notes. How to Hygge. cosy meals for two.
Fourth Estate £30 Hardie Grant £22 Mitchell Beazley £25 Bluebird £16.99 Head of Zeus £12.50





…AND 3 FAVOURITE WINTRY READS

FEBRUARY IN THE KITCHEN
Make enough marmalade to satisfy
Paddington Bear. Online now at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk









LIFE AFTER LIFE THE WHITE BOOK NORTHERN LIGHTS
BY KATE ATKINSON BY HAN KANG BY PHILIP PULLMAN
In this bestselling A lyrical exploration In the first of the His
novel, baby Ursula is of mourning and Dark Materials trilogy,
born in a snowstorm, rebirth, told through we join Lyra on her
over and over, before a study of white: snow, freezing journey to the
the doctor sits down blank paper, rice North, warmed by spice
to ham and piccalilli. and laundry. cake and ‘chocolatl’.
Black Swan £8.99 Portobello Books £8.99 Scholastic £7.99

























deliciousmagazine.co.uk 33

LE TTER TO MY F OOD HER O



Rick Stein writes






to Jane Grigson











She’s the food writer who inspired, among many

others, one of the UK’s best-loved chefs – the man
who’s become synonymous with fish cookery in the

UK. Here, Rick Stein thanks his food hero for sparking
an interest in seafood that was to become a passion











I don t know whether I ever really thanked on’t know whether I ever r of emulating the enormous knowledge this
Id
you for choosing my first book, English book shows of everything edible in our seas
Seafood Cookery (1988), as the Glenfiddich and rivers. Each species is introduced with
Food Book of the Year in 1989. It was one of memorable anecdotes, history and personal
the most prestigious food and drink awards views about its taste and importance in our
at the time and I was so delighted about it. gastronomy. You wrote this about herrings:
I was also amazed that you had come to my “I remember as a child my father’s tales of
restaurant in Padstow shortly before with going out with herring boats from South
your daughter Sophie. Shields or Tynemouth. He talked about the
It so happens that your husband Geoffrey’s cold and the fierce seas, the sudden energy
anthology of poems, The Cherry Tree, which required and the cups of strong sweet tea that
my mother gave me when I was 12, led to my kept them going. When the nets were hauled
lifelong love of poetry. in, the silver catch tumbled into the boat for
Cooking and poetry: you were like royalty. what seemed like hours, the mesh stuck solid
I was in awe of you but, when I met you, you with fish. He understood well Scott’s remark
were informal with a great sense of humour, in The Antiquary, ‘It’s nae fish ye’re buying,
as was Sophie. I felt I’d known you both for it’s men’s lives.’”
a long time. Only later did I realise, when Inspired, I went out herring-netting off
I won the award, that you were checking the North Devon coast, at Clovelly. It was a
me out, but at the time the thought never still, sunny and crisp November day. I took
occurred to me because Jane Grigson’s Fish some fish home to my son Edward’s cottage
Book (1973) was, in the best of all possible near Padstow that same afternoon and he
clichés, my bible. I could never have dreamt fried them in oatmeal and made a salad with

people.






























just tomatoes and thyme from his garden.
It was the best fish I’d ever eaten.
Reading your book, I almost felt I was
reading a book of literature like Izaac
Walton’s The Compleat Angler (1653). “It must
be confessed,” you wrote, “the life history cacciucco (pronounced ‘catchuko’), which you
of the sole is not entertaining, delicious recalled having in a restaurant in Viareggio
though it may taste.” And this about lobsters: on the Tuscan coast. You were mightily put
“One should, ideally, find a seaside town off when it arrived at your table, it being jet
where lobsters are caught and make an black from cuttlefish ink, but described it as
expedition, an occasion, if you like, which the best thing you’d ever eaten.
will become part of one’s family ritual.” Your recipe calls for all, or a selection of,
Your comments about caviar are fabulous: the following: squid, cuttlefish, lobster,
“Caviar is a grand and painful subject.” You
described it as nutritious and expensive with I was in awe of you… Your
“an air of mythical luxury… The food of czars,
fish book was my bible
of those incredible tyrants who cherished
fine fat fleas and Fabergé knick-knacks, while
most of their subjects lived in a poverty of langoustines, prawns, shrimps, mussels,
indescribable squalor”. Where does writing hake, john dory, weever fish, monkfish,
like this exist in cookery books now? rascasse, gurnard and red mullet. The pages
You wrote the book in the 1970s and of this recipe are splattered with tomato,
bemoaned people’s lack of interest in the testimony to the number of times I’ve cooked
enormous varieties of edible species. You it. The crowning glory of your cacciucco is the
filled the book with recipes for weever fish, toasted or fried bread you put in each guest’s
eel, dogfish, john dory, bluefish, conger eel, bowl prior to pouring on the stew. I found a
shark and shad, as well as those we know similar but simpler dish called cioppino, in
and love – turbot, cod, haddock, salmon, San Francisco of all places. In my recipe I’ve
dover sole, lobsters, crab, oysters, mussels used toasted sourdough bread rubbed with
and prawns. There were sections on smoked garlic. I hope you like it.
fish, wind-dried fish and even a recipe for the
sun-dried fish bombay duck. Yours sincerely
Yet you were aware you were writing for
a small audience. A particular thought you
noted at the time was that fish could not be
served as a main course “when men were
present as they needed steak or some other
good red meat”. How nourishing, though,
were your recipes; what man could fail to
be satisfied by a Ligurian fish stew called


Turn the page for Rick’s recipe →







deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35

1 Remove the heads and shells from the
NEXT
Rick Stein’s simple fish stew
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME
MONTH prawns but leave the last tail segment of
Sophie Grigson
writes to Claudia ABOUT 1 HOUR the shell in place. Simmer the heads and
Roden shells in the stock/water for 20 minutes,
Make the stew, then cool, cover and then strain and discard the shells. Set the
MAKE
AHEAD chill up to 24 hours ahead. Reheat on stock aside and reserve the prawn meat
the hob to serve. to add to the stew later.
Discard any mussels that don’t close 2 Meanwhile, bring the vinegar and sugar
FOOD
TEAM’S when tapped on the worksurface, then to the boil in a small pan, then simmer until
TIP
clean and de-beard them (pull off any reduced to a couple of teaspoons. Set aside.
stringy, weed-like bits) just before cooking. 3 Heat the olive oil and butter in a large
saucepan, add the garlic, onion, celery and
• 12 sustainably sourced raw, shell-on green pepper, then fry gently for 6-8 minutes
prawns over a medium-low heat. Add the white wine,
• 700ml fish stock or water salt, plenty of freshly ground black pepper,
• 3 tbsp red wine vinegar the chilli flakes and tomatoes, then pour in
• 1 tbsp sugar the fish stock and the vinegar reduction. RECIPE: RICK STEIN, THE ROAD TO MEXICO (EBURY £26). JANE GRIGSON PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN WILDGOOSE
• 2 tbsp olive oil Simmer for 30 minutes, adding the oregano
• 30g butter for the last 5 minutes (see Make Ahead).
• 5 garlic cloves, chopped 4 To finish, bring the stew base to the boil.
• ½ medium onion, chopped Add the reserved raw prawns, the monkfish
• 1 celery stick, chopped and mussels, put a lid on the pan and cook for
• 1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped 5 minutes.
• 100ml dry white wine 5 Toast the sourdough, then char the slices
• 1 tsp salt slightly on a gas flame. Rub the toast with the
• ½-1 tsp chilli flakes garlic and drizzle with oil.
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes 6 To serve, put a slice of toast in each
• 1 tsp dried oregano bowl, ladle in some stew and sprinkle
• 250g sustainable monkfish fillet, cut with parsley.
into 4cm pieces PER SERVING (FOR 6) 347kcals,
• 20 sustainable raw mussels (see tip) 11.8g fat (3.7g saturated), 24.2g
protein, 31.3g carbs (7.6g sugars),
TO SERVE 2.1g salt, 3.2g fibre
• 6 slices sourdough bread For more ways to use celery,
• 1 garlic clove, peeled see Loose Ends
• Olive oil
• Small handful fresh parsley, chopped














PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH
STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON

people.























































































































deliciousmagazine.co.uk 37

GILL MELLER’S WINTER


The ingredient






that adds magic






to every dish






Onions occupy a singular place in the modest array of
vegetables available to the winter cook, says Gill Meller.

Often taken for granted, this versatile member of the
allium family deserves to play a starring role









































































RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER
PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY

what’s good now.
























































































































deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39

Some vegetables I’m thinking carrots,
potatoes, parsnips and cabbage are

dependable; always there when you need
them. Then there’s the onion, which stands
apart, like a culinary overlord. From a
cook’s point of view, it’s everywhere. It’s
the whisper you can barely distinguish in

a complex stew, it’s the warmth you feel
from a gravy-rich pie on a cold winter’s
evening. It ghosts its way through myriad
dishes with unmatched magic and subtlety.

The onion is the foundation of the familiar,
the unusual and everything in between.
Without it, I’d be lost at sea, adrift in a
becalmed kitchen with no direction home.
Sometimes I wonder if the harmony the

onion creates behind the scenes is taken for
granted. Should we celebrate this wonderful
vegetable more often and make it the flesh
and blood of a meal, not just its backbone?

I think so, and that’s why this month’s
recipes are all about this wonderful allium.
And what better month to sing its praises
than grey, wintry February?

what’s good now.























Venison, onion and
red wine pie





























































































deliciousmagazine.co.uk 41

Onion bhajis with
yogurt and goat’s
cheese dip

what’s good now.







not overly so, to allow the bhajis to
Onion bhajis with yogurt cook through without the outside
and goat’s cheese dip burning. Test the temperature by

MAKES ABOUT 18. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN dropping a small pinch of the batter
into the oil: it should fizz and
Whenever I make a curry, bubble, and crisp within a minute.
I make a batch of these onion 4 Drop loose dessertspoonfuls of
bhajis. They’re deliciously the mixture carefully into the hot
crunchy and fragrantly spiced. oil. Fry, turning if necessary, for
I add black onion seeds, which about 2 minutes on each side. Use
give the bhajis a beautiful a slotted spoon or frying basket
layer of flavour that seems to lift the fritters out onto a plate
particularly appropriate. lined with kitchen paper.
5 To make the dip, put the yogurt
Make the dip, cover and chill and goat’s cheese in a bowl and mix
MAKE
AHEAD up to 2 days ahead. Bring to well. Add the garlic, chilli (if using),
room temperature to serve. onion/nigella seeds and chives.
Season with salt and pepper, then
• 1 tsp cumin seeds stir well (see Make Ahead).
• 1 tsp coriander seeds 6 Arrange the bhajis on a large
• 1 tsp black peppercorns warmed serving platter and Liver, bacon and
onions
• 4 medium onions, very thinly sprinkle with salt. Serve with the
sliced dip alongside.
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced PER BHAJI (FOR 18) 112kcals,
• 120g gram (chickpea) flour 6.2g fat (2.3g saturated), 5g protein, FOR THE MASH
• 1½ tbsp curry powder 8g carbs (3.7g sugars), 0.5g salt, • 1kg large white potatoes
• 1 tsp ground turmeric 2g fibre (such as maris piper or king
• 2 tsp black onion or nigella seeds edward), peeled and cut into
• 1 tsp fine sea salt Liver, bacon and onions rough 2cm pieces
• Sunflower oil for deep frying SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, • 200ml whole milk

SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN • 100g unsalted butter, chopped
FOR THE DIP
• 350ml natural yogurt If you’re a fan of liver and 1 Set a large pan over a medium-
• 150g soft rindless goat’s cheese bacon, you’ll love this take low heat and add a drizzle of oil,
(check it’s vegetarian if need be) on the classic dish. If you’re followed by the bacon. Gently fry
• ½ garlic clove, finely grated sceptical, all the more reason to the bacon until the pieces start to
• 1 green chilli, thinly sliced give it a go – you’ll be converted, render a little fat and take on some
(optional) I promise! I always like to up colour. Add the thinly sliced onions
• 1 tsp black onion or nigella seeds the onion ante. Not only do they and fry gently for 15-20 minutes,
• 1 small bunch chives, finely give the sauce sweetness, they stirring as they cook. Once the onions
chopped also add depth and body. are lovely and soft and beginning
to caramelise, add the garlic and
1 Put the cumin, coriander and • Vegetable oil for frying chopped sage and continue to cook
peppercorns in a small pan set over • 200g British free-range bacon for a further 3-4 minutes.
a low heat. Toast for 1-2 minutes, lardons (smoked or unsmoked) 2 Add the brandy, if using, and
then crush in a pestle and mortar. or streaky bacon, chopped bubble to reduce by half. Pour in the
2 In a bowl, combine the sliced • 2 onions, thinly sliced stock, add the thyme and season
onions, garlic, gram flour, curry • 2 garlic cloves, sliced with pepper. Let the sauce simmer
powder, crushed spices, turmeric, • 2 tbsp chopped fresh sage for 15-20 minutes or until the liquid
onion/nigella seeds and salt. Add • Splash brandy (optional) has reduced by two thirds. Keep
5 tbsp cold water, then mix well • 400ml pork or chicken stock warm over a very low heat.
with a wooden spoon or your hands • 2 fresh thyme sprigs 3 Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a
(they’re usually the best tools). • 400g very fresh British lamb’s large pan with a pinch of salt. Pour
3 Pour the sunflower oil into a deep or pig’s liver over cold water to cover, bring to the
heavy-based saucepan to a depth • 100g plain flour to coat boil, then reduce the heat and simmer
of 8-10cm, then set over a medium- • 1 tsp lard (or an extra dash of oil) for about 20 minutes until tender.
high heat. The oil should be hot but • Mustard to serve 4 Drain and return the potatoes to →


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 43

the pan, mash until smooth, then • Knob of butter 3 Reduce the heat and add the
beat in the milk and butter. • 2 large red onions, thinly sliced remaining dripping/oil and the
5 Trim any white ventricles from the • 2 large onions, thinly sliced butter, followed by the onions,
liver, then use a sharp knife to cut it • 4 garlic cloves, crushed garlic, bay leaves, thyme, star anise
into 1cm-thick slices. Season, then • 4 bay leaves and orange zest. Season, then cook,
dip in the flour to coat. • 4 fresh thyme sprigs stirring regularly, for 10-12 minutes
6 Heat a large frying pan until hot, • 1 star anise or until the onions begin to soften.
then add the lard or a little oil. Add • Grated zest ¼ small orange Turn down the heat, cover and cook,
the sliced liver and cook for 1 minute • 2 tbsp plain flour stirring occasionally, for a further
on each side, no longer. Remove the • 250ml full-bodied red wine 30 minutes.
liver from the pan and toss it through • 500-600ml beef or chicken stock 4 Heat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/
the bacon and onion mixture. Bring it gas 3½. When the onions are
all back up to a simmer for no more FOR THE ROUGH PUFF PASTRY extraordinarily soft and beginning
than a minute. • 175g unsalted butter, chilled and to caramelise, return the venison,
7 Serve the liver, onions and bacon cut into small cubes bacon and any resting juices to the
on warmed plates, with mashed • 350g plain flour, plus extra to dust casserole. Scatter over the flour
potato and mustard on the side. • Iced water and stir well. Cook for 2-3 minutes,
PER SERVING 741kcals, 37.4g fat • 1 medium free-range egg, beaten then pour in the wine, stir well and
(19.5g saturated), 21.8g protein, bring to a simmer. Add enough
75.6g carbs (9.4g sugars), 1.6g salt, YOU’LL ALSO NEED… stock to just cover the meat. Set the
7.7g fibre • 26cm round shallow casserole lid on slightly ajar, transfer to the
or pie dish, lightly greased (about oven and cook for 2½ hours. After
1.2 litres) that time, remove the casserole
from the oven, lift out a piece of
1 For the pastry, put the butter, meat and check it’s tender and the
flour and a pinch of salt in a large sauce is rich (if it’s not, return to
mixing bowl. With your fingertips, the oven for a further 30 minutes
rub the butter into the flour until the and check again). When the meat
mixture resembles breadcrumbs, is tender, stir the pie filling gently,
then add just enough iced water to then taste, adjust the seasoning and
bring it together into a fairly firm leave it cool (see Make Ahead).
dough. Form the dough into a 5 Turn up the oven to 200°C/180°C
Venison, onion and rectangular shape, then roll out fan/gas 6. Cut the pastry into two
red wine pie on a well floured surface to form pieces, about two thirds and one
SERVES 5-6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, a rectangle about 1cm thick. Fold third. Roll out the larger piece to
SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME the two short ends into the middle about 30cm wide and use to line the
3 HOURS 15-50 MIN, PLUS CHILLING so they overlap like an envelope. greased pie dish (don’t worry if you
Give the pastry a quarter-turn, then have some overhang – this gets
The onions give this pie real repeat the rolling/folding process trimmed off). Spoon in the pie
body. I cook them slowly until five more times. Wrap the pastry, filling, removing the bay leaves and
they collapse into a thick jam then rest it in the fridge for 30 herb stalks if you can find them.
before I add the venison. Give minutes to an hour (see Make Ahead). 6 Roll out the smaller piece of
the meat plenty of cooking time 2 Put a large heavy-based casserole pastry to make the lid. Brush
– it should be lovely and tender (one with a lid) over a high heat. Add the edges of the pastry base
before you make the pie. half the dripping or oil and, when with beaten egg, lay the lid on
hot, add the bacon lardons. Fry for top, then crimp the edges
Make the pastry and filling 4-5 minutes, stirring regularly, until together and trim off the excess
MAKE
AHEAD up to 2 days ahead, then golden, then use a slotted spoon to pastry. Brush the top of the pie
cover and chill separately. lift out onto a plate. Keep the pan on with more beaten egg, then cut
Assemble the pie to bake and serve. the heat, then add the cubed venison a steam vent in the centre. Bake
in a single layer (you might need to for 45-50 minutes until golden
• 2 tbsp beef dripping or olive oil do this in batches) and brown until brown. Leave the pie to settle for
• 150g British free-range caramelised on all sides. Avoid around 15 minutes before serving.
NEXT unsmoked bacon lardons shaking the pan and let the meat PER SERVING (FOR 6) 759kcals,
MONTH • 600-700g British venison sizzle for several minutes before 37.8g fat (19.6g saturated), 38.9g
Gill gets
cracking with shoulder, cut into large cubes, turning. Once it’s browned, lift it protein, 55.4g carbs (5.5g sugars),
hen’s eggs seasoned generously out and set it aside with the bacon. 1.1g salt, 4.8g fibre


44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

what’s good now.







the pan/dish and let them sizzle for
Onion porridge with 4-5 minutes, but don’t let the butter
roasted onions and thyme burn. Tuck a small sheet of

SERVES 2 AS A MAIN, 4 AS A STARTER. compostable baking paper down
HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN around the onions, cover with the
lid, then bake in the oven for
This porridge is somewhere 20 minutes. Remove the lid, then
between a creamy risotto and return to the oven for a further
a bread sauce, and goes so well 15 minutes until the onions are
with sweet roast onions. exceptionally soft and tender and
caramelised on the underside. Lift
• 60g butter them out onto a plate to rest.
• 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 3 Remove any darker bits of herb
• 6-8 fresh sage leaves from the pan/dish, then put on a
• 4-6 fresh thyme sprigs medium heat. Add 400ml stock and
• 4 large firm onions, halved bring up to a simmer, scraping up
through the root the bits from the base of the pan.
• 425ml vegetable or chicken stock 4 Stir in the porridge oats, turn
• 100g porridge oats down the heat to a low simmer and
• 50g hard cheese, such as pecorino keep stirring for 5-6 minutes. If the
or parmesan (vegetarian if need porridge is looking too thick, add
be), grated, plus extra to serve a dash more stock (it should have
• 2-3 tbsp double cream the consistency of bread sauce). Stir
• Crusty bread and green salad in the remaining butter and grated
to serve cheese, then add the cream and
a grinding of black pepper to taste.
1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/ 5 Spoon the porridge into a warmed
gas 5. Put a heavy-based ovenproof serving dish and arrange the onions
frying pan or hob-safe shallow on top. Drizzle with a little more oil
roasting dish (one with a lid) over and serve with more cheese, some
a medium-high heat. Add half the crusty bread and a green salad.
butter and 1 tbsp of the olive oil. PER SERVING (FOR 4) 431kcals, WHAT’S IN SEASON IN FEBRUARY
When it’s bubbling, scatter in the 27.9g fat (13.9g saturated), 9.7g Onions are particularly good in winter, bringing
much joy to the kitchen through the leaner
herbs and season. protein, 31.7g carbs (12.5g sugars),
months, of which February is definitely one. That
2 Put the onions cut-side down into 0.5g salt, 6.8g fibre
said, there’s still a wealth of seasonal ingredients
to inspire your cold-weather cooking…

l Parsnips, celeriac and swede won’t be at their
peak for much longer now, so mash, roast, purée,
bake and generally cook the heck out of them
while you still can.
l English white and red cabbages are coming to
an end too, but it’s easy to preserve them for the
months ahead. Look for ‘a simple fermented
cabbage recipe’ in the winter recipe section
at gillmeller.com and find other cabbage recipes at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
l Line-caught cod, rock oysters and brown crab
all thrive in the cold waters of winter, so now’s
a good time to pay your fishmonger a visit.
l Chicory and radicchio leaves have a bitter yet
invigorating flavour. I love them in salads with
blood oranges and celeriac or braised with cream,
anchovies, garlic and rosemary.
l Curly kale and cavolo nero are packed with
vitamins and antioxidants – everything we need
to keep us going into March.

R O A S T O F T H E M O N T H




So simple, so good:







sea bream for two









Classic fresh flavours combine forces in a fish dish that’s

simple to prepare and quick to cook plus there’s minimal
washing up involved. Chill a good bottle of white wine and

you’ll soon be enjoying a supper fit for a king.

JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPH MAJA SMEND STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE



Roast sea bream with • 6 bay leaves scatter the sourdough over it.
fennel, sourdough and • 1 large slice sourdough bread, Sit the fish on top, slashed-side
preserved lemons cut into chunks up, then sprinkle with the sliced
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, • 2 preserved lemons (see preserved lemons. Drizzle the
OVEN TIME 35 MIN Know-how), pith discarded, peel fish with the brine, 2 tbsp of the
finely sliced, plus 1 tbsp brine olive oil and the vermouth, then
Preserved lemons have been • 100ml Noilly Prat or other white season with black pepper only
KNOW- pickled in brine and add a vermouth (the brine and lemons are salty).
HOW
citrussy boost to dishes. • Handful chopped fresh parsley Return the dish/tin to the oven
You’ll find them in delis and large • ½ bunch fresh dill, chopped and roast for 20 minutes
supermarkets. See The Knowledge • 100g pitted large green olives, or until the flesh is opaque and
for more tips on how to use them. roughly sliced (such as halkidiki) comes away easily from the
Use the best fish available • Juice ½ lemon bones when you test the fish
FOOD
TEAM’S from your fishmonger on with the point of a knife.
TIP
the day. Currently the Marine 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C 3 Meanwhile, mix the reserved
Conservation Society suggests good fan/gas 6. Arrange the fennel slices fennel fronds, parsley and dill
quality farmed sea bream are the in a shallow roasting tin or dish big with the sliced olives, remaining
most sustainable choice. enough to hold the fish. Drizzle olive oil and the lemon juice.
with 1 tbsp of the oil, season with Spoon the herb/olive mix over
• 1 large fennel bulb, sliced (fronds salt and pepper, then roast for the fish and serve with buttered
reserved) 15 minutes until starting to soften. potatoes or more sourdough.
NEXT • 4 tbsp olive oil 2 Slash one side of each fish 3 PER SERVING 788kcals, 40.5g fat
MONTH
• 2 x 450g sustainable sea bream or times with a sharp knife, then tuck (4.1g saturated), 74.5g protein,
Slow-cooked
roast pork with other round fish such as sea bass, a bay leaf into each slash. Remove 16g carbs (5g sugars), 3.8g salt,
cannellini beans gutted and scaled (see tip) the fennel from the oven and 6.7g fibre


46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

favourites.

M E N U O F T H E M O N T H


Gather friends







and light the fire








Baby, it’s cold outside… but inside it’s snug and warm. For peak cosiness, fill
the kitchen with the citrus scent of baking blood oranges, spice-mulled cider

and fresh herbs. Then light some candles and indulge in a chill-chasing feast











































COSY WINTER
MENU FOR SIX

Mulled chai cider

Red onion soup with
cheesy sourdough melts
RAISE YOUR GLASS 
Mulled Slow-roast pork belly
chai cider
with lemon, parsley and
caper gremolata

Caramelised apples
Herby hasselback
potatoes


Blood orange tart with
cardamom cream

the menu.



























TAKE IT SLOW…
Slow-roast pork belly with
lemon, parsley and caper
gremolata, caramelised
apples and herby
hasselback potatoes
















•



























































RECIPES, FOOD STYLING &
STYLING LOUISE PICKFORD
PHOTOGRAPHS IAN WALLACE


deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49

COLD HANDS, WARM HEART
Red onion soup with
cheesy sourdough melts